Tafraout Granite

GRANITE
2ND EDITION | By Steve Broadbent

CLIMB TAFRAOUT

Holiday Sun Rock in Morocco’s Anti-Atlas

TAFRAOUT GRANITE

2nd Edition, September 2018
by Steve Broadbent

Published in the EU by the Oxford Alpine Club
www.oxfordalpineclub.co.uk
ISBN for this volume 978-0-9935486-5-9
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
©2018 Oxford Alpine Club
All uncredited images and design by Steve Broadbent ©2018

Cartography by GeoGraphics
ALSO AVAILABLE IN THE VERTICAL LIFE APP...
All of the crags in this guidebook are available in the Vertical Life climbing app.

PLEASE READ THIS!

Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity, and users of this guidebook should have a full understanding of the risks involved. The
Anti-Atlas is not a suitable destination for novice climbers, and routes described in this guide require relevant experience, skills, and careful
judgement. This guidebook is a selection of routes described in the Tafraout-area ‘Livre d’Escalade’ kept in the Hotel Les Amandiers – many of
these remain unchecked and descriptions are those provided by the first ascensionists. Information in this book may therefore be inaccurate,
and users should not treat it as a substitute for good ‘mountain-sense’.

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

Other than brief quotations for use in reviews, or personal use on a climb, no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written
permission from the author. Nor should any text, images, or maps be used for commercial products without permission and acknowledgement
of the author. The author and publisher accept no responsibility for any injury or loss caused as a result of using this guidebook. Images and text
contained within this book do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of the Oxford Alpine Club.
Front Cover Photograph: The author on Granite Nation (Font 6a) at Tamayurt Rocks (page 179), photographed by Ron Buckley.

Town plan page 19 Contents | INTRODUCTION 3

Contents

Contents 3 Vegetation 20 Intro
Introduction 4 Wildlife 20
About This Guidebook 5 The Rock 23 Background
Other Guidebooks 5 Gear 23
Maps 5 Ethics 23 How to
When To Visit 6 Bolting 23 Use
Getting To Tafraout 7 Access & The Environment 24
Money 10 New Routes 24 Overview
Provisions 10 Other Things To Do 25 Map
Climbing Gear 10 Other Places To Climb 25 Crag
Health, Safety & Travel Advice 12 How To Use This Guidebook 27
People & Culture 13 Grades 29 Selector
Religion 13 The Climbing 31 Suggested
Standards For Travellers 13 Crag Selector 32
Buying Souvenirs 14 Recommended Sport Crags 33 Climbs
Carpets 14 Recommended Trad Crags 34
Maison Troc 15 Crack Day Itineraries 35 Aday Road
Accommodation 16 History 181
Food & Drink 18 Index 183 Tazka Road

Acknowledgements provided loads of useful information and put in some new bolts in the Aguerd
area, and Oliver Guenay has once again helped with topos. Thanks Oudad
The opportunity to live in Tafraout and attempt to document 20 years also to Marco Marrosu, Tim Dufour and Andy Fewtrell for the Awmrkt
of Tafraout's granite climbing was one of the greatest privileges I route information they provided. Dou
could ever have wished for, and what started out as an unplanned day Pete Wilson and Ron Kenyon have, yet again, generously provided Toulzoukht
of granite crack climbing soon turned into a full-time endeavour that photographs, as have Marco Marrosu and Anne Linda van Aousift
has relied on dozens of people to come to fruition. Kappel, for which I am always grateful. Bouldering
In the first instance, I must thank Johnny Dawes and Julie Hiam As with the previous Tafraout guidebooks, I naturally owe huge
for their inspiration, when on a scorching Spring day back in 2012 thanks to the Climb Tafraout 'team' for all their help. Lina Arthur has History
they lured me into Awmrkt for the first time. The whirlwind of granite once again applied herself with her usual diligence as proof-reader, Index
crack climbing that followed is one that I shall never forget, and was whilst also providing a sounding board for ideas throughout the
the starting point for this guidebook. production of this guide. She and husband Dave Arthur have also
My greatest debt of gratitude, of course, is to my wife, climbing been key climbing partners during the arduous (no, really!) research
partner and proof-reader Katja Broadbent who has accompanied for the guide. Thanks also to everyone else who has got out onto the
me on many of the climbs described in this book. Looking back, granite with me for route checking, including Will Benfold, Ron
it's surprising how much of that climbing time was spent doing Buckley, Jim Nuttall, Matt Mellor, Rachel Mellor, Caroline
anything but climbing, whether it was dangling around with stuck Culwick, Mark Stevenson, Anna Lewy, Pete Cawley, Marion
cams, bailing off routes when the kids invariably managed to hurt Wyllie and Tim Culwick. There are probably more, and in which
themselves back at home, or racing around Tafraout to replace broken case I apologise for any omissions.
drill bits. Of course, she has also supported me through hours of Finally, I need to thank our very good friends in Tafraout, Lahcen and
office work when I would have been more usefully employed doing Mohammed, without whom we would almost certainly have been
something else... deported and this guide would not exist. Their assistance in every
Obtaining information about climbs is never an easy task, but I must aspect of our lives in Tafraout was far more than we could ever have
say that everyone involved in the Tafraout granite scene has been so expected, and their friendship has been one of the most valuable and
easy to work with, and for that I thank all of them. Palan Martín rewarding parts of 12 years' climbing in Morocco.
was the first to attempt to collate granite climbing information, and
without his work Tafraout's granite climbing would probably never Steve Broadbent, June 2018
have taken off. Ron Kenyon and Shaw Brown have been supportive
throughout, and I should also thank Shaw and Judith Neaves for
rescuing me from a stuck-rope-solo-re-bolting mess on the Black
Wall! Joakim Olofsson, John Williams and Björn Holgren have

4 INTRODUCTION Town plan page 19

Intro Introduction to the south of Tafraout, bounded roughly by the
R104 (Aday Road) to the west, the R107 (Aguerd
Background Nestled on the south side of Morocco’s Anti- Oudad Road) to the east, and the unsurfaced Dou
Atlas mountains, the oasis town of Tafraout is Toulzoukht track to the south. Between these
How to one of the hidden gems of the climbing world, confines, the semi-desert landscape is punctuated
Use and for the adventurous traveller it promises by striking outcrops of coarse-grained orange
a unique and memorable experience, far granite; a fascinating maze of wadis (dry river
Overview removed from the popular holiday haunts of the beds), valleys, and crags awaiting exploration.
Map Mediterranean. For many years, the rock here has had a reputation
Crag The traditional climbing on the quartzite cliffs of for being somewhat crumbly. But whilst it is true
nearby Jebel el Kest and Jebel Taskra has rocketed that the slow-cooled crystalline granite does suffer
Selector into public awareness in recent years, with ever- from relentless thermal exfoliation and a lack of
Suggested increasing numbers of visitors coming to enjoy weathering by water, the routes included in this
the remote, adventurous climbing that the high guidebook are on sound rock that is a joy to climb,
Climbs mountain crags here have to offer. Few of them, requiring the kind of full-body, three-dimensional
however, look to the south, where an incredible manoeuvres that you’re unlikely to call upon on
Aday Road landscape of granite tors creates one of Morocco’s many other rock types. This, of course, alongside
natural treasures; a place of rugged and intense the brilliant friction climbing and full-on jamming
Tazka Road beauty, painted orange and pink by the burning for which granite is well known.
glow of the Mahgreb sunshine. Tafraout, though, is more than just another winter-
Aguerd This is the Tafraout back-country, and for climbers sun climbing destination: it is a fascinating cultural
Oudad looking for something a little bit different it's a journey, brimming with character and overflowing
paradise of granite slab and crack climbing, as well with adventure. The local Berber people are as
Awmrkt friendly a race as you could ever hope to meet,
as brilliant, bizarre esoterica. and taking the time to savour the hospitality of
Dou Known to the locals as Awmrkt, the this amazing town is one of the true pleasures of
Toulzoukht relatively small area described by a Tafraout climbing trip. Thankfully, with so much
this guidebook lies in a triangle rock right on the doorstep, doing so is wonderfully
easy.
Aousift Welcome to a climbing holiday like few others.

Bouldering With a mix of bolts and traditional protection, Tafraout's granite
tors provide a varied and interesting climbing playground. The
author on the key traverse of High Sierra (VS 5a) (page 137).
Photo: Dave Arthur

History
Index

Town plan page 19 Other guides & maps | INTRODUCTION 5

ABOUT THIS GUIDEBOOK ONLINE RESOURCES Intro
This edition is the first printed guidebook to the
granite climbing around Tafraout and aims to Before you visit Tafraout, make sure you visit Background
provide as much detail as possible about trad, our website for latest updates, free stuff, and
sport, and bouldering opportunities in the region. discounts: How to
Information about the climbing here has been • Online trip planner, with flight, car hire and Use
notoriously difficult to come by in the past, and
as a result it has been impossible to produce accommodation advice. Overview
a completely definitive guidebook. This latest • Exclusive discounts on Tafraout hotels. Map
edition is based largely on the 2012 miniguide • Packing lists, maps, and other useful
as well as the Tafraout area new-route book and Crag
extensive ‘in the field’ research during the winter resources for your trip. Selector
of 2017-18. • Free downloads, including topos and maps.
In some cases, the existence of routes has only • Guidebook updates and new-route Suggested
been identified by the discovery of pitons or bolts Climbs
on the crags, and it has not always been possible information.
to ascertain the history of such climbs. Interim www.climb-tafraout.com
names have been given to these routes in order to
avoid large numbers of ‘unnamed’ climbs, which Maps Aday Road
make identification frustrating and logging of
routes impossible. If you have any information to Until recently the Anti-Atlas region was poorly Tazka Road
add, or can fill in any of the gaps then please do mapped and finding your way around was Aguerd
contact us at www.climb-tafraout.com notoriously difficult. Today, however, the area is Oudad
Other Guidebooks covered by three series of GeoGraphics maps, all of Awmrkt
Two other Climb-Tafraout guidebooks accompany which will be of interest to the climber: Dou
this edition, and are available for sale on our
website at www.climb-tafraout.com Tourist Explorer Map 1 Toulzoukht
This double-sided map Aousift
Moroccan Anti-Atlas features a 1:750,000 road map
A landmark guidebook of southern Morocco, as well Bouldering
to approximately 1500 as a 1:150,000 ‘piste map’ of
traditionally protected rock the Anti-Atlas from Ait Baha to
climbs on the quartzite Tafraout, perfect for exploring
of Jebel el Kest, including the area by car or bike.
everything from single-
pitch cragging to 800m Outdoor Activity Maps 1-5
mountain adventures The whole area is covered at
across both the north and 1:500,00 scale by this series of
south sides of the range. handy A2 MiniMaps, great for
100 Classic Climbs finding your way to the crag in
Focusing on multi-pitch the car and on foot. Also useful
routes and long days out, for exploring the range on rest
this guidebook describes days and bad weather days.
100 of the best routes in
the range in superb detail, Adventure Map 2 History
and is ideal for those For hikers and trekkers Index
wishing to experience the wishing to explore the Jebel
very best trad on offer in el Kest escarpment on foot,
the Anti-Atlas. this 1:25000, A1 MiniMap
represents the most detailed
mapping of the Anti-Atlas
region currently available.

Sheet maps can be purchased in our online store at
www.climb-tafraout.com

6 INTRODUCTION | When to visit Town plan page 19

Intro When to visit November - December
Traditionally this is the wet season, but don’t
Background Throughout the winter months Tafraout has an let that put you off as rain is rarely prolonged
almost perfect climate for climbing. The long enough to put a stop to climbing. Temperatures
How to winter season, which runs from late September can get quite chilly, particularly in the shade or
Use right through to the end of April, is one of the during the evenings, and thermal clothing will
biggest attractions for climbers looking to be required.
Overview escape the wet European weather.
Map Although Tafraout can see rain at any time January - February
Crag during the winter, it is rare and unlikely to spoil The early Spring can be unpredictable – if the
a climbing trip. Likewise, an unusually cool autumn was wet then January and February are
Selector airmass can sink down from Europe, bringing usually dry, with pleasant temperatures around
Suggested surprisingly chilly temperatures to the higher 15 to 20 degrees and long periods of clear skies
mountain crags. Climbers visiting the area and perfect climbing conditions. If, however, the
Climbs between November and March are, therefore, autumn was very dry then rain frequently falls in
advised to bring lightweight waterproofs, whilst the early spring and snowfall on the summits is
Aday Road thermal shirts or fleeces will almost certainly not unusual – be sure to bring warm clothing.
be required throughout the season. Of course,
Tazka Road during the heat of the day, temperatures in March - April
the high twenties will necessitate cool, loose Spring usually gives excellent climbing
Aguerd clothing when climbing. conditions, with hot daytime temperatures
Oudad Typical conditions are as follows: (between 15 and 25 degrees) and long periods
of sunshine. Exceptionally, winter rain can persist
Awmrkt September - October right through to the end of March, though this
As the summer heat begins to subside in late is unlikely. The land is usually green, with pink
Dou September, conditions are usually hot and dry. almond blossom and wild flowers creating a
Toulzoukht Thunderstorms are possible, though rare, and particularly spectacular landscape.
prolonged rain is very unlikely. North-facing
Aousift crags come into their own, whilst the south- At the end of a long, hot day in Tafraout as the October sun
facing crags can be unbearably hot during the starts to dip behind the distant hills.
Bouldering heat of the day. Daytime temperatures vary
between 20 and 30 degrees.

History
Index

Town plan page 19 Getting to Tafraout | INTRODUCTION 7

services run from both cities. The best service, routing
from Marrakech to Tafraout via Agadir, Inezgane, Ait
MARRAKECH Melloul, Tiznit, Idaousmlal and Ait Wafka is operated Intro
Background
Essaouira by CTM, and tickets can be booked at www.ctm.ma.
How to
Chichaoua  TdSFAoeaaryItstsNhioenSnraetdthuveranonucjoetbuaronnuednydsiotjoispururinosueryabloloyfotpekoninsfsgiilbliuslypatdosevbvisoeerodakl. Use
seats at the CTM office in Tafraout the evening before
Asni O U N travel. The bus leaves Tafraout every day at 8am, Overview
Map
Imi-N-Tanoute L A S M Crag

ANTI H IGH AT taking about 9 hours to reach Marrakech. Selector
A7 Suggested
Taliouine From Agadir it is also possible to reach Tafraout by
Grand Taxi. The airport is located out of town, so Climbs
travellers wishing to benefit from down-town rental
AGADIR Taroudant rates or take public transport to Tafraout will need Aday Road
Tazka Road
 MOUNTAINS to go by taxi into the city (about 150 dirhams). The
Biougra onward journey from Agadir bus station is usually Aguerd
Ait Baha L A S Igherm made via Tiznit, for which it is advisable to negotiate a Oudad
price before travel (30 dirhams is normal). The Grand Awmrkt
- A T Taxis will wait until they are full before departing, and Dou
this can take up to an hour. At Tiznit you will often Toulzoukht
Tiznit Aousift
Bouldering
TAFRAOUT be dropped off at the south-eastern side of the town
History
walls, from where you will need to walk round the Index
outside of the walls to Ave du 20 Aout, which runs out
Getting to Tafraout of the wall at Bab Mechouar, on the south-western

The oasis town of Tafraout (alternatively Tafraoute side. The Grande Taxi lot is at the end of Ave. du 20
or Tafrawt) is located in the Anti-Atlas mountains, in Aout, where it is easy to get a seat to Tafraout for
the southwest of Morocco. It is most easily reached about 30 dirhams.
by car from Agadir (a 2½ hour drive) or Marrakech
(a 5½ hour drive). Climbers’ Airport and Crag Transfers

Flights Although not the cheapest option, private transfers
are available through Tafraout-based Maison Troc,
A number of UK airlines operate services to Agadir Al who offer airport pick-ups, as well as lifts to and
Massira, with return flights typically costing between from crags. This service can also be useful for hikers
£180 and £300 per person. Ryanair, British Airways, wishing to leave their car at one end of a walk.
easyJet, Thomas Cook and Thomson services operate Contact Lahcen on +212 67303909 to arrange.
from a variety of UK airports, though flights are
limited and can be expensive at short notice. Hiring a Car
Flying to Marrakech Menara is usually a cheaper Most climbers visiting Tafraout will want to hire a car
alternative, and most major airlines run daily flights for the duration of their stay, and it is advisable to
from a wide variety of European airports. Return book online before your trip. All major rental agencies
flights from the UK typically cost between £130 and have desks at both Agadir and Marrakech airports,
£250. and good deals have been found through brokers
such as Holiday Autos and Rhino Car Hire (discount
Public Transport available at www.climb-tafraout.com.
Although many of Tafraout’s crags are accessed via
Renting a car is the easiest way to reach Tafraout unsurfaced tracks (known as pistes), 4WD should not
and get around once you’re there, but as most of be necessary provided care is taken. A standard car
the granite is fairly close to town, a trip by public typically costs between £150 and £200 per week
transport is certainly feasible. at Agadir or Marrakech airports. The quality of cars
Tafraout is served by a variety of inter-city bus has been found to be generally poor, with bald
services and taxis (of the grand and petit varieties), tyres, unserviceable equipment and missing jacks
which make a trip by public transport perfectly frequently reported.
feasible, if a little adventurous.
Agadir and Marrakech both serve as bases for an
overland adventure to Tafraout, and direct bus

8 INTRODUCTION | Getting to Tafraout Town plan page 19

AGADIR N8

A7 from Atacadao N8 towards A7
Intro Marrakech supermarket and Marrakech
N1 & Decathlon
Background P1009 Inezgane
Care! Follow signs
How tAo GADIR P1009N8 Turn right out of N10
A7airport onto P1714 to airport
Use Big, walled
N10 compound (palace)

Overview Inezgane
Map

Crag Ait Melloul P1714
Selector
 P1714 Ait Melloul
Turn right at roundabout
Suggested P1714 to airport AIL
Climbs onto P1009 and Tafraout DET
Lkolea
AGADIR
Biougra – see Ad
inset detail
R105
Aday Road BIOUGRA R105 Big quarries
Imi Mqourn Ait Alla Jebel Ta
Tazka Road Steep hill
El Halat
Aguerd
Oudad

AwPm1r0kt09 towards Back street is easiest AIT BAHA Hilala
airport and Agadir way through town on Big reservoir at Winding mountain road
Dou Tlata Uoanass with mileposts showing
ToulzoBuukhststation & return to airport Tafraout distances

taxi rank

Aousift

Bouldering R105 skra Kasbah Tizourgane
R105 – slower Idaougnidif Madao
way to Agadir

BIOUGRA

R105 towards Ait Sidi M’ZalR107 Ait Abdellah
Baha and Tafraout R106
L Jebel el Kest
History BIO U GR A DETAI
Tanalt Ameln
Index
Turn left at Ameln
roundabout

TAFRAOUT rar Mqorn Roundabout with
police check-point
R104
Tahala

S Motorway | Junction | Services

National Route

Regional Route | Town 0km 10km 20km 30km 40km
Provincial Route / Minor Road

Town plan page 19 Getting to Tafraout | INTRODUCTION 9

Best to avoid driving at the edge of the built up area. There is a useful Intro
into city centre petrol station here for filling up on your return to Background
the airport. Continue north for 5.8km, then turn
N8 MARRAKECH left on the N8 – this junction is usefully signposted How to
Turn left onto Marrakech to the airport on your return journey. The N8 Use
N8 westbound can either be followed through Oudaya to the
Menara motorway, or take the signposted route via the Overview
Speed P2006. Map
bumps  The journey along the A7 motorway leads to the Crag
Agadir/Inezgane/Ait Melloul ring road, takes about
R212 Exit airport, turn 2 hours, and costs approximately 80Dh in tolls. Selector
right onto R212 Suggested
The Drive from Agadir
Turn right at Agadir Al Massira airport is located conveniently to Climbs
petrol station the east of the city, so there’s no need to drive into
Agadir itself. From the airport, turn right and follow Aday Road
Escaping From Marrakech the P1714 for 5km to the first major roundabout. Tazka Road
Although Agadir provides the simplest access Turn right here onto the P1009 and continue to
to Tafraout and the Anti-Atlas, many people will Biougra. Aguerd
choose to travel via Marrakech as part of a wider This large market town can be very busy during Oudad
tour of Morocco, or perhaps to take in the excellent rush hour or on market day, when pedestrians, Awmrkt
sport-climbing of the Todra Gorge. donkeys, lorries, oblivious locals, and out-of-their Dou
Marrakech itself is a fascinating city and well depth westerners all share the road into town. Toulzoukht
worth a visit in its own right. Countless hotels are At night it is worth paying particular attention to Aousift
available to suit all budgets, and the city boasts cyclists, who rarely have lights and frequently cycle Bouldering
many excellent restaurants that reflect its modern, on the wrong side of the road.
cosmopolitan image, as well as more traditional The road comes to an end at a major T-junction. History
tastes. The central square, Place Jma el Fna, comes Turn left here, following the R105 out of town Index
alive every evening with a fascinating variety and on towards Ait Baha. Note that on the return
of street artists, snake charmers, and vendors journey it is not possible to turn right from the
serving a baffling array of dishes, the likes of R105 back onto the P1009, so a better way is to
which you’re unlikely to find anywhere outside of take the back-street shortcut shown on the inset
Africa. Surrounding the square is one of the best map.
examples of a Moroccan souq (market) that you’ll Continuing along the R105 a large quarry is passed
ever see, and getting lost amongst its maze of on the left, just before the road begins its climb
narrow streets is a brilliant way of working up an into the hills. Ait Baha is reached in approximately
appetite for a meal of sheep brain or eyeballs back 45 minutes. Keep going straight on, passing the
in the square – assuming you can find your way edge of town (there is a police station on the left).
back, that is. Beyond Ait Baha bear right at the junction (i.e.
For car drivers, however, the centre of Marrakech is follow the main road) and continue until the road
best avoided. Frequent buses run from the airport snakes past a large reservoir. Just after this there
terminal to the centre of town, so it’s usually easier is a fork – both roads lead to the same place, but
to leave your rental car at the airport and explore since road widening work in 2017 it is now easier
the city on foot. just to stay on the main road (i.e. go straight on).
At some point, of course, you’re going to want to The two roads come back together again just
drive from Marrakech to Tafraout (for some, this before the famous Kasbah Tizourgane. Here the
happens sooner rather than later). Exit the airport north side of Jebel el Kest provides a magnificent
and turn right at the roundabout onto the R212. backdrop to one of the best examples of a
Continue for approximately 4.2km to a right turn Moroccan Kasbah, and for climbers the sense of
excitement grows, as vast quartzite crags begin to
drift in and out of view to the southwest.
Keep on the main road, following it past Madao
(Madaw), Sidi M’Zal, Tizi N’Tarakatine, and then to a

10 INTRODUCTION | Money & provisions Town plan page 19

Intro roundabout on a high col (police checkpoint here). PROVISIONS
Background Turn right, climbing up towards the crest of the
Tarakatine Pass, from where the full extent of the Tafraout provides all of the basic provisions that
How to Ameln Valley and the south face of Jebel el Kest will be needed for a climbing trip. The excellent
Use come magnificently into view. Berber round-bread (pain ronde) is a staple diet
Descending into the Ameln Valley, the road and is available from most of the small shops
Overview eventually reaches the village of Ameln, and a in town, along with bottled water, fizzy drinks,
Map large new roundabout. Turn left here, climbing
Crag a short hill to reach Tafraout in a cheese, crisps, pastries, and other snacks.
couple of kilometres. Sweets and chocolate bars (including
Selector Mars and Snickers) are available in
Suggested MONEY some of the shops, and on hot days
a small supermarket opposite the
Climbs The local currency is the school even provides a welcome
Moroccan dirham (DH source of ice-cream. A large
Aday Road or MAD), and in 2018 variety of fruit and vegetables
Tazka Road the exchange rate was can be bought from market
approximately 12DH = £1, or stalls throughout the town,
Aguerd 10DH = 1 euro. The dirham is a and for those looking to
Oudad controlled currency, but can be cater for themselves, fresh
Awmrkt obtained in the UK before your meat is available from the
Dou journey from Bureaux de Change town’s indoor meat market.
Toulzoukht beyond passport control. A much Alcohol is not available from
Aousift better exchange rate, however, will shops in town – for this and
Bouldering be available from the bank in Tafraout, other more unusual provisions
so it’s only worth changing as much it will be necessary to visit the
History as you will need for the journey, or for your supermarket in Agadir. The nearest outlet
Index hire-car and petrol if it’s not pre-paid. Note that
a maximum of 1000DH can be exported from the is the Atacadao store near the N8 (see inset
country, and officials in Marrakech airport have Agadir map on page 8).
been seen searching the wallets of passengers
going through security. Climbing Gear
Taking plenty of cash with you from the UK will
prevent any time-consuming difficulties with There are no sources of climbing gear in Tafraout,
ATMs and banks. Outside the big cities it is safest so visitors are advised to ensure that they bring
to assume you will require dirhams to obtain enough for their trip. In particular, it’s worth
petrol, food, and accommodation. A tank of petrol packing a couple of extra chalk balls, some abseil
will cost between 300DH and 600DH (depending tat and a few spare slings and karabiners.
on where you get the fuel). In Tafraout there are There is a Decathlon store in Agadir which sells a
three cash machines which have proved generally very limited range of gear including rock shoes,
reliable. harnesses, and clothing. It is located close to the
Most hotels will require payment in cash, and Atacadao supermarket, shown on the inset map
even the VISA machine in the salubrious Hotel Les on page 8.
Amandiers has proved unreliable. Larger hotels will
accept payment in euro or sterling, but in general
it’s worth making sure that you have the means to
obtain sufficient dirham prior to the day of your
departure.
Finally, it is worth noting that smaller shops
and businesses will be unable to accept large
notes (e.g. 200DH) for small transactions, as they
generally don’t have enough change. Larger
notes are always accepted in petrol stations or the
supermarket, and residents of Les Amandiers can
exchange them at the hotel reception.

Town plan page 19 Climbing gear | INTRODUCTION 11

Intro
Background

How to
Use

Overview
Map
Crag

Selector
Suggested

Climbs

Aday Road
Tazka Road

Aguerd
Oudad
Awmrkt
Dou
Toulzoukht
Aousift
Bouldering

History
Index

Mark Stevenson on the fine long slab of Bolero (F5c)
on the shady north face of Eflodne (page 158).
Photo: Steve Broadbent

16 INTRODUCTION | Accommodation Town plan page 19

Intro Accommodation HOTEL LES AMANDIERS   
There are dozens of places to stay in Tafraout, with BAR
Background accommodation options to suit most budgets. AIR CON

How to Hotels This famous hotel sits on a hillside overlooking
Use Most visitors choose to stay in one of the town's the town and has traditionally been the centre
hotels, all of which are excellent value. Hotel Les of the trad-climbing community in Tafraout. Its
Overview Amandiers is the traditional option, though it well-stocked bar usually has at least a handful of
Map does lack charm. The best budget options are British climbers established in it, and the ever-
Crag Hotel Les Amis, or the very basic Hotel Tanger. growing new-routes book (Livre d’Escalade) is
Other mid-budget options worth a look are the kept closely guarded behind the hotel reception.
Selector Hotel Salama, Hotel Saint Antoine, and Hotel The hotel is clean, with safe chlorinated tap
Suggested Espace Tifawine. water, and a large restaurant serving a mixture
of simple Moroccan and International dishes.
Climbs Apartments The staff are extremely friendly, and speak
If you're visiting in a group, then one of the best good French, English and German. Double,
Aday Road options is to rent the well-appointed Auberge twin, and triple rooms are available, and all are
l'Escalade, which can sleep up to ten people in en-suite with either a bath or a shower. There
Tazka Road three rooms. As well as a kitchen for guest use, it is an outdoor swimming pool for hotel guests,
is next door to the best restaurant in town! where enjoying a cold beer on the terrace, lit
Aguerd by alpenglow on Jebel el Kest, is a thoroughly
Oudad Camping recommended experience.
There are three campsites in town which Free wi-fi is available for all guests, and the centre
Awmrkt provides facilities for campervans. Camping of Tafraout is easily reached in five minutes.
with tents is not common in Morocco, and wild Email: [email protected]
Dou camping is not encouraged. During busy times Website: http://www.hotel-lesamandiers.com
Toulzoukht of year, travellers in campervans can also stay in Tel: +212 (0)528 800008
the municipal camping area next to the 3 Palms Rooms: 350Dh or 300Dh* (single) | 450Dh or 330Dh* (double) |
Aousift site for as little as €1 per night. 500Dh or 430Dh* (triple).
(*reduced prices if booked through www.climb-tafraout.com)
Bouldering

History
Index

Town plan page 19 Accommodation | INTRODUCTION 17

HOTEL SALAMA   HOTEL TIFAWINE   Intro

AIR CON AIR CON

Background

A charming hotel, located right in the centre of This fairly new hotel is set to offer serious How to
Tafraout. It is a popular option amongst climbers, competition to the likes of the Salama, offering Use
being full of character and furnished throughout some of the best value rooms in town. The
in traditional Moroccan style. outdoor swimming pool is only open in summer, Overview
Website: http://www.hotelsalama.com but there is free wifi for guests and the restaurant Map
Tel: +212 (0)528 800026 downstairs is one of the best in town.
Rooms: 180Dh (single) | 260Dh (double) | 320Dh (triple) Rooms: 150Dh (double or twin) Crag
Selector

Suggested
Climbs

AUBERGE L’ESCALADE   HOTEL LES AMIS  Aday Road

AIR CON

Tazka Road

Aguerd
Oudad

An excellent option if you're in a group, this Probably the best budget hotel in town, Les Amis Awmrkt
well-situated apartment has three rooms (double, has comfortable en-suite rooms, hot showers, Dou
triple, and family) with shared living space, which and an attractive breakfast terrace. The hotel is
can be rented individually or all together. The very climber-friendly – mention that you're a Toulzoukht
living room and rooftop terrace are a great place climber and you can get a discount on the room Aousift
to hang out and make climbing plans, and a and also on food in the nearby Restaurant La
fully equipped kitchen is a useful addition. Wifi, Kasbah. Beer and wine are sometimes available Bouldering
washing machine, and hot showers also provided. on request for hotel guests.
Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected]
Tel: +212 (0)691 850401 / +212 (0)660 954269 Tel: +212 (0)623 826488
Rooms: 200Dh (double) | 300Dh (triple) | 500Dh (room for 5) Rooms: 150Dh (double or twin) | 200Dh (triple room or rooftop
tent) | +50Dh (breakfast)

History
Index

The bridge in the centre of Tafraout on a rainy day.

22 INTRODUCTION | The rock & ethics Town plan page 19

Intro

Background
How to
Use
Overview
Map
Crag
Selector

Suggested
Climbs

Aday Road

Tazka Road
Aguerd
Oudad
Awmrkt
Dou

Toulzoukht
Aousift

Bouldering

History
Index

Tafraout granite is a paradise of steep, uncompromising and
eccentric wide cracks. Steve Broadbent tackling the roof of
Andromeda (E6) on Elephant Rock (page 113).
Photo: Katja Broadbent

Town plan page 19 The rock & ethics | INTRODUCTION 23

The Rock FIXED EQUIPMENT Intro

The molten rock which made this spectacular Background
landscape cooled slowly underground, creating
large abrasive crystals that aren't always well Perhaps due to the difficulties in obtaining How to
attached – a problem made worse by a lack of hardware in town, there has unfortunately been Use
weathering by rainwater. Extremes of temperature a history of theft of fixed gear from Tafraout's
due to the intense summer sun further worsen the granite crags. Overview
issue and create exfoliating flakes of all sizes. This practice, as well as being detrimental to Map
The result is that much of Tafraout's granite is others' enjoyment of the region, can have Crag
notoriously crumbly, sometimes to the extent dangerous consequences, and whilst you may
that it can be scraped away by the hands or feet be able to climb out without the need for a Selector
of surprised climbers. This fact has done much belay, others may not. Please do not remove Suggested
to deter people from exploring the potential of hardware, either to use on your own route or
the crags here and led to Tafraout granite having for any other purpose. Climbs
something of a an esoteric reputation. Similarly, maillons or chains on anchors should
Amongst some undeniably poor rock, however, not be viewed as 'crag swag' – these have Aday Road
can be found large areas of well-weathered, been put here for a reason, and whilst that
marbled granite that is perfect for climbing, and extra maillon might one day be useful on your Tazka Road
it is hoped that this guidebook will finally open harness, please leave it in-situ for others to use.
peoples' eyes to the superb routes on offer here. Aguerd
Oudad
Gear
Awmrkt
Granite routes tend to fall into two broad
categories: bolt-protected slabs, or steep, wide Dou
cracks protected by large camming devices. Of Toulzoukht
course, there's a full spectrum in between, but
a typical granite rack will consist of a full set of Bolting Aousift
camming devices, doubled up in the larger sizes Bouldering
and perhaps supplemented by the occasional Big Please note that bolting is not permitted on the
Bro for the widest crack routes. quartzite crags of the Ameln Valley and Jebel el History
Kest, and must be restricted to the granite area. Index
Ethics When considering placing bolts, please check that
a route has not previously been climbed as a trad
Tafraout's granite crags have not seen the same route, and do not 'retro-bolt' existing climbs.
strict traditional ethics as the nearby quartzite Power drills are permitted on Tafraout granite, and
of Jebel el Kest, and since the earliest days of inevitably lead to safer bolting. The lack of bolting
climbing here, bolts and pegs have been placed equipment in town, however, will naturally limit
to protect key sections or provide anchors and any explosion of bolted routes.
lower-offs. If bolting routes, please do so considerately and
With the obvious difficulties of obtaining bolts be aware that the rock sometimes has significant
in-country, bolting has often been sparse and used hollow sections – always check that you are not
only to supplement traditional protection, rather bolting into an exfoliating flake.
than replace it. Because of this, routes or pitches Stainless steel bolts and hangers are the preferable
are often 'manufactured' at a particular grade, type, although galvanised varieties have been
and whilst this may not conform to the ethics of found to last well in Tafraout's predominantly dry
many climbing areas, Tafraout granite climbing has environment.
seemingly never taken itself too seriously on these Further information is available online at
matters.
It is, therefore, locally acceptable to place bolts www.climb-tafraout.com
in order to create an enjoyable route that would
otherwise have unbalanced or dangerous cruxes.
Likewise, fully bolted sport routes happily co-exist
here with trad cracks and mixed pitches.

26 INTRODUCTION | How to use this guidebook Overview Map Page 30

Intro Find all the crags of

Background TAFRAOUT in the

How to Vertical-Life App
Use

Overview
Map
Crag

Selector
Suggested

Climbs

Aday Road

Tazka Road

Aguerd
Oudad

Awmrkt

Dou
Toulzoukht

Aousift

Bouldering

History Your
worldwide
Download
Index now climbing
guide
for free

Vertical-Life

climbing app

Overview Map Page 30 Tifran e How to use this guidebook | INTRODUCTION 27

How to use this Guidebook 1100
1100
Route Descriptions

All of the csmlimabll ianrgeTToaacifrhnaotoodutethtihsebsoooukthis located in a The following symbols are used in the description Intro
relatively of Tafraout, of routes: Background
broken down into six geographic areas as shown
on the overview map on page 30. Thumb tabs Warning! No protection on this route, or on a How to
down the side of each pCemaegterey can bCeemetuerysed for quickly SOLO large part of the route. Use
locating the desired chapter.
A traditionally protected route, requiring a Overview
A seventh chapter describes selected bouldering TRAD full trad rack. Map
in the area. Crag
TAFRAOUT This route has some bolts but requires a full
Area Maps (Tafraoute) MIXED trad rack as well. Selector
Camping 3 Palms Sch. This route is bolted, but may feature longer Suggested
At the start of each chapter is an area map BOLTS run-outs. A couple of pieces of trad gear may
showing the location of the crags described witThiHfaowitneinle Medical Centre reduce the seriousness. Climbs
that chapter.
A fully bolted sport climb for which trad gear Aday Road
Post isHoStPeOl LResTAmis not required. Tazka Road
Office Coin de 
Nomad Aguerd
A well-protected route. Lots of gear, and a Oudad
Hotel Salama Awmrkt
Dou
Recommended Hotel San GEAMRaisongTrooc od one to push your grade! Toulzoukht
Camping parking spot A bold climb with some long run-outs or Aousift
Granite Rose QR code andAnctooinoerdinates Bouldering
of parking spot BOLD protection that is difficult to place.
Sch. A crack climb that requires jamming History
Hotel Les Index
Amandiers CRACK techniques.
This route requires wires or small cams for
Amandiers Tor

Camping 1100 THIN protection.
Tazga
P A wide crack for which you will need large
WIDE gear for protection.
SLAB AfriscltaiobInbmycylriaomnubetein, gre. quiring smearing and
STEEP A steep or overhanging route; tiring or

pumpy climbing.
Tazka 1100 Almond Buttress GPS 29.71464, Basalt River 1100
(Tazga) North Tor -8.97812
1100
A. ALMOND
BUTTRESS Sector Ibrahim

p55

Flor de 1230
 Luna
Crag described Cirque du Soleil Cirque This route has an abseil descent.
Ancient Berber Hidden within this chapter du Soleil ABSEIL
House Valley Tor Imyane Tor
Cantilever 1147 Central Tor
Tor LOOSE Loose rock.1132Agadir

Tocho el Mossy, lichenous, or dirty rock.
Regalito
FlaMkeOSTSoYr
Palm Grove ValleyTocho de 1100
alleyEach CcrraaggTdaIznekafsocHrriimdpdteanioVtinosntaBrotsxw12i3t0h an information PRI1CK2L0Y7 Prickly vegetation on the climb.
box giving overview information aHinghdTorapproach Route unchecked, or 1d1e59tails not available.Flake Quake

details. The foTallzokawToring symbols are u12s3e0 d: UNCHECKED

1200 ValleBylack WalTl opos Elephant Rock
The following
This crag12r3e0ceives lots of sunshine. Black Wall symbols are use1d15o0n crag topos:
Shade is available at this crag. 1108
This buttress or sector is usually in the shade,
Shade 1100

Lovers’ Crag
This crag is suitable for families (see page 31 Shade or shade is available througHehytoMhuatrretshe day.
This buttress or sector gets lots of sunshine
Families for more information about climbing TwheiFtohrtress throughout the day. 1157
kids).
Palm High Sierra 1116 This buttress or sector has sunshine in the
Grove
Crag

Hitch It is easy to hitch-hike to this11c6r0ag. AM morningN. apHoaleton’s

Yellow Tor This buAtgtardeir ss or sector has sunshine in the
A roadside crag with a short approach.
Roadside 1214 PM afternoon1. 115 Aguerd

Oudad

eyrra Vall

Village Tor

28 INTRODUCTION | How to use this guidebook Overview Map Page 30

Intro World-class adventure trad
Background on the doorstep of Europe

How to
Use

Overview
Map

Crag
Selector

Suggested
Climbs

Aday Road

Tazka Road
Aguerd
Oudad
Awmrkt
Dou

Toulzoukht
Aousift

Bouldering

History New routes | Hotel discounts | Maps | Guidebooks

Index Join us online at:

www.climb-tafraout.com

Overview Map Page 30 How to use this guidebook | INTRODUCTION 29

ONLINE MAPS AND GPS Intro

It should be possible to locate all of the climbing in this book without the use of GPS or online maps, Background
although online mapping is available for those who wish to use it.
Google Maps is the most commonly used application, and whilst it will not currently give step-by- How to
step driving directions in Morocco, it can be very useful for locating crags. Latitude and longitude Use
coordinates can be entered directly into Google in the given format. For example, to find the parking for
Almond Buttress (see previous page), simply enter 29.71464,-8.97812 into Google Maps. Overview
Alternatively, scan the QR code from the area map to get a direct link to the Google Maps location. Map
Step-by-step driving directions are not currently available in Google, but are provided in applications
such as Maps.Me, using Open Street Map data. Although not as reliable as Google, this application is Crag
useful for navigation when driving further afield in Morocco. Selector
A third useful application is Locus Map, which provides GPS tracking and a variety of map overlays
which can be useful when out and about on foot in the Anti-Atlas. Suggested
Climbs

Grades Adjectival UK USA French Aus
5.1
The grading of routes is always a contentious task, Aday Road
and in the case of Tafraout granite, difficulties Difficult 5.2 Tazka Road
are compounded by the fact that routes have
historically been graded using a variety of different Very 5.3 10 Aguerd
grading systems. Difficult 11 Oudad
In this guidebook, historic grades have been 5.4 12 Awmrkt
converted into one of two systems, depending on Mild 4a 13 Dou
the predominant form of protection on the crag Severe 14 Toulzoukht
or route. Note that in some cases routes that get a 5.5 15 Aousift
trad grade may still rely on bolted protection and 16 Bouldering
vice-versa, and the protection symbol rather than Severe 4b F4 17
the grade should be used to judge whether trad 5.6 History
gear is required. 18 Index
Hard Mild Very 4c 5.7 F4+
Trad Climbs Severe Severe 19
These are graded using UK trad grades. This is 20
a two-part grading system, involving both an Very 5a 5.8 F5a 21
adjectival grade and a tech grade. Severe F5b
The adjectival grade describes the overall difficulty 5.9 F5c 22
of a route, taking into account how well protected E1 Hard Very 5b 5.10a F6a
it is and how sustained it is. 5.10b F6b 23
The tech grade describes how technically difficult Severe
the hardest move is on a route. 5.10c F6c 24
For example, a route on which the hardest move is E2 5c 5.10d
UK tech 5c would be given E4 5c if it was very bold E4 E3 5.11a F7a
or very sustained, or E1 5c if it was very safe and 5.11b
had only one hard move. 6a 5.11c F7b
E5 5.11d
Sport Climbs 5.12a
Bolt-protected sport climbs are graded using 6b 5.12b
the French system, which describes the overall E6 5.12c
difficulty, taking into account how technically hard
the moves are as well as how sustained they are. In 6c
the above example, the E4 5c might be F6c, where
the E1 5c might by F6b

30 INTRODUCTION | Overview map Overview Map Page 30

Intro ANTI-ATLAS TAFRAOUT
ANCHORAdaFy UND (Tafraoute)
Background
Peak Imyane
How to Please help us to maintain fixed
Use equipment by d1o3n53ating online Tazka
(Tazga)
Overview www.climb-tafraout.com/anti-atlas-anchor-fund
Map
Ighir n’Targant
Crag THE ADAY ROAD page 39
Selector THE TAZKA ROAD page 51

Suggested Awmrkt Track
Climbs
R107
Aday AGUERD OUDAD page 79

Aday Road

Tazka Road R104 Aguerd
Oudad
Aguerd
Oudad

Awmrkt

Dou
Toulzoukht

Afella Ouday

Aousift

Bouldering Dou AWMRKT page 121 Aousift
Toulzoukht DOU TOULZOUKHT DpoaugeTo1u4lz1oukht Track
History
Index 

Painted Rocks

IN CASE OF EMERGENCY AOUSIFT page 151

Tafraout Police +212 (0)528 800061
Tafraout Ambulance +212 (0)528 862993

British Consulate +212 (0)528 841219
British Embassy +212 (0)537 633333

Overview Map Page 30 Climbing overview | INTRODUCTION 31

The Climbing certain ability to improvise may be called upon if Intro
mixed equipment is encountered.
The granite tors surrounding Tafraout and Aguerd Both single- and multi-pitch sport routes have Background
Oudad provide a wonderful variety of climbing, been equipped in the area, and recommendations
from steep off-width cracks to bold slab climbs, are shown on page 34. How to
with everything from the very easiest routes to Use
desperate test-pieces. Whether you're looking for Trad Climbing
a multi-pitch day out, some relaxed cragging on a For lovers of energetic wide cracks, Tafraout's Overview
rest day from the quartzite mountains, or gentle granite back country is a fascinating playground, Map
bouldering and a family picnic, you can find it in littered with enticing routes. Because many of
the magical landscape of Tafraout's granite back- these routes are isolated, with some crags having Crag
country. only one or two routes on them, it is common Selector
Unlike on the quartzite crags of nearby Jebel el to visit several crags in one day – a number of
Kest, where there is a strict traditional climbing suggested 'Crack Day' itineraries are shown on Suggested
ethic, Tafraout's granite outcrops feature a mix page 36 to provide some inspiration to first-time Climbs
of bolted and traditionally protected routes, visitors.
providing an interesting variety of climbing that is
well suited to a relaxed climbing holiday. The Aday Road page 39
The climbing can be broadly considered in six The Tazka Road page 51
main areas, as shown on the orientation map Aguerd Oudad page 79
opposite. A separate area map for each of these Awmrkt page 121
areas is shown at the start of the relevant chapter, Dou Toulzoukht page 141
which can be located using the handy ‘thumb tabs’ Aousift page 151
down the side of the page. Bouldering page 165

Sport Climbing
Although Tafraout will never compete with
Mediterranean limestone destinations as a sport
climbing venue, the bolted crags here provide
some excellent climbing, mostly on tiny crimps
and friction slabs.
Newly equipped crags are generally well bolted,
though on some of the older routes it's worth
remembering that this is not Kalymnos, and a

CLIMBING WITH FAMILIES It surprises many people to learn that a remote town in North History
Africa is suitable destination for a family climbing holiday, Index
Kids of all ages can enjoy Tafraout's granite but with an excellent selection of family-friendly crags,
climbing, Central Slab (Difficult) (Page 147). endless mazes of boulders to explore, and the fascinating and
welcoming Berber culture, Tafraout is the perfect place to take
the little ones climbing.
For very young kids, the bouldering circuits are always popular
and there's plenty of top-roping to enjoy – Kindergarten
Crags (page 144), Rainbow Tor (page 131) and the Aguerd
Slabs (page 133) are good places to start.
Slightly older kids might enjoy joining the grown-ups on some
of the easy multi-pitch routes such as those on Eflodne (page
158), High Sierra (page 134), or the very popular Freeway at
Tazka (page 65).
More information and ideas can be found on our website at
www.climb-tafraout.com

32 INTRODUCTION | Crag selector Overview Map Page 30

Intro Crag Selector Page
Background Single-Pitch
Multi-Pitch
How to Crack climbs
Use Slab climbs
Traditional routes
Overview Sport routes
Map Lots of sunshine
Crag Shade available
Suitable for kids
Selector Access by hitching
Suggested Roadside
Drive from Tafraout
Climbs Walk-in time
Routes D – VD or F3
Aday Road Routes S – HS or F4
Tazka Road Routes MVS – HVS or F5
Routes E1 – E3 or F6
Aguerd Routes E4 + or F7+
Oudad
Awmrkt A. TOCHO DE TAFRAOUT 42 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:05 0 0 2 1 1 0 1 2Shade Families Hitch Roadside
Dou B. CAMPSITE BOULDERS 43 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:02 0 0 0 3 4 1 0 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside
Toulzoukht 44 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:10 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside
Aousift C. GRAN DIEDRO 45 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:10 0 0 0 3 0 0 0 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside
Bouldering D. LOS CANCHOS 46 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:15 0 0 1 2 1 1 1 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside
E. ADAY CRAGS 48 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:10 0 0 3 4 2 4 1 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside
History F. YELMO CARPANTÓNICO
Index CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:05 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside
A. ALMOND BUTTRESS 55 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:15 0 0 0 1 2 0 1 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside
B. FLOR DE LUNA 56 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:05 0 0 0 0 4 2 0 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside
58 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:20 0 0 0 1 2 0 2 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside
C. TOCHO EL REGALITO 59 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:15 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside
D. TOCHO DE TAZKA 60 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:15 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside
61 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:10 0 2 8 0 0 6 2 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside
E. PRISA MATA 64 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:10 0 0 2 2 0 0 3 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside
F. PALM GROVE 69 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:05 1 2 6 4 1 11 3 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside
G. TAZKA’S 2ND DOME 72 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:05 0 0 0 3 0 0 0 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside
H. TAZKA’S 1ST DOME 76
I. TAZKA CRAG CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:10 0 0 3 2 3 3 1 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside
J. TAZKA PUEBLO CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:05 0 0 2 1 1 0 1 3Shade Families Hitch Roadside
CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:10 0 0 3 2 0 1 2 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside
A. SECTOR IBRAHIM 82 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:10 0 0 2 2 0 3 1 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside
B. IMYANE 86 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:10 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside
92 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:20 0 0 2 3 0 1 1 2Shade Families Hitch Roadside
C. WILDCAT WALL 94 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:10 0 0 5 6 0 1 2 3Shade Families Hitch Roadside
D. FLAKE QUAKE 96 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:10 0 0 1 2 3 1 2 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside
E. TRANSAHARANIA 98 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:15 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 2Shade Families Hitch Roadside
100 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT
F. HIGH TOR 103 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:15 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0
G. BLACK WALL 104 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT
H. LOVERS’ CRAG 105 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT Shade Families Hitch Roadside
I. JAFFA FLAKE 108 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT
J. HYPER CRACK 110 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT 0:05 0:05 1 0 1 2 3 2 0 3Shade Families Hitch Roadside
K. NAPOLEON’S HAT 115 0:05 0:15 0 1 1 8 3 2 4 2Shade Families Hitch Roadside
L. ELEPHANT ROCK 117 0:05 0:05 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside
M. HEYT MHARRES 118 0:05 0:05 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside
N. SAN DIMAS 0:10 0:15 0 0 1 2 0 0 0 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside
O. TAGHZOUT CRAGS

Overview Map Page 30 Crag selector | INTRODUCTION 33

Page Intro
Single-Pitch
Multi-Pitch Background
Crack climbs
Slab climbs
Traditional routes
Sport routes
Lots of sunshine
Shade available
Suitable for kids
Access by hitching
Roadside
Drive from Tafraout
Walk-in time
Routes D – VD or F3
Routes S – HS or F4
Routes MVS – HVS or F5
Routes E1 – E3 or F6
Routes E4 + or F7+

A. FIRST TOR 124 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT Shade Families Hitch Roadside 0:10 0:02 0 0030001 How to
B. BAKING TOR 125 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT Shade Families Hitch Roadside 0:10 0:02 0 0001001 Use
C. THIRD TOR 125 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT Shade Families Hitch Roadside 0:10 0:02 0 0400200
D. FOURTH TOR 126 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT Shade Families Hitch Roadside 0:10 0:02 0 1100100 Overview
E. TAMAYURT ROCKS 127 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT Shade Families Hitch Roadside 0:15 0:05 0 0021200 Map
128 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT Shade Families Hitch Roadside 0:15 0:05 0 0020100 Crag
F. OUDAFNE 130 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT Shade Families Hitch Roadside 0:15 0:10 1 0101001
G. AWMRKT TOR 131 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT Shade Families Hitch Roadside 0:15 0:05 2 0001010 Selector
H. RAINBOW TOR 133 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT Shade Families Hitch Roadside 0:10 0:10 3 0000000 Suggested
I. AGUERD SLABS 134 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT Shade Families Hitch Roadside 0:10 0:15 1 1210111
J. HIGH SIERRA DOME 139 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT Shade Families Hitch Roadside 0:10 0:20 0 0012002 Climbs
K. OFFWIDTHS BEYOND
CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT Aday Road
CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT
CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT Tazka Road

A. KINDERGARTEN CRAGS 144 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT Shade Families Hitch Roadside 0:10 0:01 16 2 0 0 0 10 0 0 Aguerd
B. TELEGRAPH POLE CRAG 148 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT Shade Families Hitch Roadside 0:10 0:02 4 0 3 0 0 1 0 0 Oudad
149 CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT Shade Families Hitch Roadside 0:15 0:10 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0
C. AKHADEJ CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT Awmrkt
CRACK SLAB TRAD SPORT
A. AOUSIFT SLABS 154 Shade Families Hitch Roadside 0:10 0:02 1 2810501 Dou
B. EAST SLABS 156 Shade Families Hitch Roadside 0:10 0:10 3 4800000 Toulzoukht
C. EFLODNE 158 Shade Families Hitch Roadside 0:15 0:10 0 1430022
160 Shade Families Hitch Roadside 0:15 0:02 0 0102030 Aousift
D. PAINTED ROCKS 163 Shade Families Hitch Roadside 0:15 0:15 0 0003003
E. AMALU WALL Bouldering

Looking across Tafraout towards the summit of Adrar Mqorn,
which dominates the landscape to the south of town.

History
Index

34 INTRODUCTION | Sport climbing recommendations Overview Map Page 30

Intro SPORT CLIMBING

Background Recommendations

How to EASY SPORT CRAGGING
Use
Tazka's Second Dome (page 64)
Overview Tazka Crag (page 72)
Map Eflodne (page 158)
Crag
INTERMEDIATE SPORT CRAGGING
Selector
Suggested Tocho de Tafraout (page 42)
Almond Buttress (page 55)
Climbs Tazka Crag (page 72)
The Black Wall (page 100)
Aday Road Eflodne (page 158)

Tazka Road

Aguerd INTERMEDIATE SPORT CRAGGING
Oudad
Yelmo Carpantónico (page 48)
Awmrkt Tazka's First Dome (page 69)
Tazka Crag (page 72)
Dou The Black Wall (page 100)
Toulzoukht Elephant Rock (page 110)

Aousift

Bouldering HARD SPORT CRAGGING

Tocho el Regalito (page 58)
Tocho de Tazka (page 59)
Sector Ibrahim (page 82)
Elephant Rock (page 110)
Amalu Wall (page 163)

MULTI-PITCH BOLTED ROUTES Unknown climbers on Danza Kuduro (F5+) on the sunny
side of Aguerd Oudad's popular Black Wall (page 101).
History If you've only got a couple of days in town, then Photo: Steve Broadbent
don't miss these popular bolted climbs...

Index Freeway (F4), Tazka (page 65)
NW Buttress (F4), Eflodne (page 159)
Aday Buttress (F5b), Aday (page 47)
ZZ (F5c), Tocho de Tafraout (page 42)
Almond Ridge (F5c), Almond Buttress (page 55)
The Silk Road (F5c), Tazka (page 67)
Montagny (F6a), Tazka (page 71)
Marble Arch (F6a+), Eflodne (page 159)

Overview Map Page 30 Trad climbing recommendations | INTRODUCTION 35

TRAD CLIMBING Intro

Recommendations Background

EASY TRAD CRAGGING How to
Use
Kindergarten Crags (page 144)
Telegraph Pole Crag (page 148) Overview
Map
INTERMEDIATE TRAD CRAGGING Crag

Tazka's Second Dome (page 64) Selector
Imyane (page 86) Suggested
Wildcat Wall (page 92)
Telegraph Pole Crag (page 148) Climbs

HARD TRAD CRAGGING Aday Road

Imyane (page 86) Tazka Road
Wildcat Wall (page 92)
San Dimas (page 117) Aguerd
First Tor (page 124) Oudad

MULTI-PITCH TRAD ROUTES Awmrkt

A selection of popular multi-pitch trad routes that Dou
are a good place to start... Toulzoukht
Wide Sierra (HS 4b), High Sierra Dome (page 137)
Sidewinder (VS 4c), Tazka (page 67) Aousift
Mamma Mia (VS 4c), Tazka (page 67)
High Sierra (VS 4c), High Sierra Dome (page 137) Bouldering
Flake Quake (HVS 5a), Flake Quake (page 95)
NW Corner (E1 5c), Tocho de Tafraout (page 42)

History
Index

Will Benfold on Flake Quake (HVS 5a), one of the most
popular trad routes on Tafraout granite (page 95).
Photo: Steve Broadbent

36 INTRODUCTION | Crack days Overview Map Page 30

Intro CRACK DAY

ItinerariesBackground

How to The idea of granite 'Crack Days' in Tafraout originated during the development of the quartzite crags
Use on Jebel el Kest, when a day of granite crack climbing was something of a rest day from the long
mountain walk-ins. Although the concept remains the same (to visit a number of easily accessible
Overview cracks in one day), none of the itineraries listed below can really be considered a 'rest day'. Instead, these
Map action-packed tick-lists represent some of the best and most challenging crack-climbing on offer, and
Crag attempting to complete a list in a day is a brilliant way to experience the very best of Tafraout granite.
Good luck...!
Selector
Suggested DESERT ROCK BACK-COUNTRY CRACKS

Climbs Theoretically the easiest of the bunch, this Taking us well into the hills above Tafraout, this
selection of mid-grade cracks is no pushover, is a challenging itinerary of tough cracks and
Aday Road with two tricky multi-pitch VS routes late in the a fair amount of walking. The list finishes with
Tazka Road day. That said, it's a great challenge for those one of the most remote routes in the area, from
operating around the VS grade, and a good where it is possible either to walk over the col
Aguerd introduction to Tafraout's best cracks, finishing to Tafraout, or return to the parking spot near
Oudad with stunning views from the attractive summit Aguerd Oudad.
Awmrkt of Tazka's Second Dome.
Dou Claude Davies' Anti-Atlas (E1 5b) (page 124)
Toulzoukht Service with a Smile (Severe) (page 126) Black Wall Crack (HVS 5b) (page 101)
Aousift Crack Day (MVS 4a) (page 126) Dodo's Hallelujah (HVS 4c) (page 99)
Bouldering Tiny Crack (VS 5a) (page 125) Habanero (E1 5b) (page 99)
Kitten Crack (HS 4b) (page 111) Wafa Thin (HVS 4c) (page 99)
History Cornflake (VS 4b) (page 93)
Index Sidewinder (VS 4c) (page 67) CRACK LOVERS' TICKLIST

TAFRAOUT'S CLASSIC CRACK CLIMBS This selection of crack climbs are all situated in
a small area around the north side of Aguerd
This superb itinerary takes in the very best HVS Oudad, and can be completed without having
jamming cracks in Tafraout, and for climbers to drive between crags. The routes include a
operating at this grade it's a day not to miss! variety of styles, with the layback of Jaffa Flake,
Although technically harder than the Desert Rock the desperate chimney of The Very Big, tricky
list, these routes are all single-pitch climbs with off-width climbing on Anonymous Crack, corner
short approaches, making it a slightly shorter bridging on Venus, and steep jamming on Casino
undertaking. Royale.

Argan Crack (HVS 5b) (page 42) Jaffa Flake (VS 5a) (page 104)
Hercules (HVS 5b) (page 87) The Very Big & The Very Small (E2 5c) (page 104)
El Hachame (HVS 5b) (page 89) Anonymous Crack (E1 5c) (page 103)
Supercrack (E1 5b) (page 154) Venus (HVS 5b) (page 103)
Azules de Vergara (HVS 5a) (page 160) Casino Royale (E2 6a) (page 103)

Overview Map Page 30 Crack days | INTRODUCTION 37

AGUERD OUDAD CLASSICS Intro
Background
Taking in some of Aguerd Oudad's most famous
extreme cracks, this is surely the ultimate How to
jamming tick-list for climbers operating at the Use
E2 level. All the routes are fairly close together
but with different aspects, so it may be worth Overview
working out the ideal order based on whether Map
you're trying to follow or avoid the sunshine. Crag

Thunderball (E2 5c) (page 91) Selector
Road Runner (E1 5b) (page 93) Suggested
Tough at the Top (E2 5b) (page 114)
Trafalgar Crack (E2 5c) (page 109) Climbs
Waterloo Crack (E1 5b) (page 109)
Aday Road
AWMRKT OFFWIDTHS Tazka Road

Wide cracks and off-widths are one of those Aguerd
things that people either love or hate, and Oudad
whilst many will run away bravely, some will be Awmrkt
unable to resist this mouth-watering selection Dou
of Tafraout's best wide cracks. Bring out your big Toulzoukht
gear and be ready for a brutal day... Aousift
Bouldering
Transaharania (E4 6a) (page 96)
Rumpus (E4 5c) (page 125) History
Call of Duty (E4 6a) (page 130) Index
Titan (E3 5b) (page 139)
Cave Crack (E4 6a) (page 139) Judith Neaves enjoying perfect hand jams on
Supercrack of Tafraout (E1 5b) (page 154).
TAFRAOUT'S EXTREME CRACKS Photo: Steve Broadbent

The toughest of the bunch, Tafraout's Extreme
Cracks represents some of the most difficult and
famous trad routes in town. For most people,
even completing one of these routes is a major
achievement, and putting them all together is
an unimaginable challenge. Thankfully, good
protection means that it's still worth giving these
routes a go, and the odd bit of aid will make this
memorable day of overhanging fun somewhat
more accessible...

Davilofante (E3 6a) (page 43)
Flor de Luna (E6 6b) (page 57)
Prisa Mata (E6 6c) (page 60)
Andromeda (E6 6c) (page 113)
Negro Azabache (E5 6c) (page 161)

50 TAZKA ROAD Map Page 52

Intro Looking out across Tafraout towards the Jebel el Kest massif from the summit of
Background Tazka’s Second Dome, with the First Dome in the foreground. The multi-pitch routes
on these two granite tors are amongst the most popular in the area, providing fun,
low-grade climbing on excellent rock.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

How to
Use

Overview
Map

Crag
Selector

Suggested
Climbs

Aday Road

Tazka Road
Aguerd
Oudad
Awmrkt
Dou

Toulzoukht
Aousift

Bouldering

History
Index

Map Page 52 TAZKA ROAD 51

Intro

2. THE TAZKA ROAD Background

How to
Use

Overview
Map

Crag
Selector

Suggested
Climbs

Aday Road

Tazka Road
Aguerd
Oudad
Awmrkt
Dou

Toulzoukht
Aousift

Bouldering

History
Index

Tifran e

52 TAZKA ROAD | AREA MAP alley Map Page 52

Intro The Tazka Road Tocho de 1100
Background Tafraout
N (See page 30 for Overview Map)
Scale 1:25 000 1km Cemetery Cemetery

0m 200m 400m 600m 800m

How to TAFRAOUT Sch.
Use (Tafraoute)
Camping 3 Palms
Overview
Map Hotel Medical Centre
Tifawine
SeClreacgtoAr day
Peak 1300 1200 Post Coin de  Hotel Les Amis
1100 Office Nomad
Suggested  Maison Troc
Climbs 1353

Hotel Salama

Hotel San
Antoine

Aday Road 1117 Camping Hotel Les
Tazka Road Granite Rose Amandiers
Davilofante Amandiers Tor

Sch.

Aguerd Camping 1100
Oudad Tazga
P
Almond Buttress
Awmrkt GPS 29.71464,
1100 -8.97812
Imyan
Dou J. TAZKA Rock Carving Tazka A. ALMOND Basalt River
PUEBLO (Tazga) BUTTRESS Imy
Toulzoukht Ighir  1
Aousift n’Targant p76 La Gazelle p55
1100 North Tor Napol
Bouldering 1100Flor de Ha
1061  Luna 12B3.0FLOR DE
Cancho Rizo LUNA Cirque Agadir 
Ancient Berber Hidden p56 Cirque du Soleil du Soleil Sector Ibrahim
House Cantilever Valley Tor 111
Tor Flake Tor Village
P Tocho el 1207
Cancho GPS 29.70828, Regalito 1147 C. TOCHO EL
n’Targant -8.98686 P REGALITO
1094 Tocho de p58 Central Tor

Tazka Hidden V 1230

1080 D. TOCHO DE High Tor Flake Quake
Cancho Alto TAZKA 1230
Cancho Bastardo GPS 29.70608, Tazka Tor p59 1200
1113 -8.98627 1230
1100 I. TAZKA Tazka Wall ValleBylack Wall
History CRAG tures First Crag Black
Index Tazka Valley 1108
Tazga Pas p72 PDome 1100
Aday Pastures H. TAZKA’S E. PRISA
1st DOME 1140 MATA Lovers’ Crag
p60
p69
The Fortress
G. TAZKA’S Second Palm High Sierra 1116
2nd DOME Dome Grove 1160
1118 Crag
p64
Palm Grove Valley
Yellow Tor

F. PALM 1214
GROVE
Saddleback Tor
p61 1158

GPS 29.70151, Sierra Vall ey
-8.98653 Dove abs

High lleyTor

Map Page 52 INTRODUCTION | TAZKA ROAD 53

THE TAZKA1100ROAD 1100 Intro

Literally built into the sides of a granite tor, the ancient village of Tazka (alternatively Tazga or Tasga) is Background
situated about 2km southwest of Tafraout and is one of the region’s historic treasures. As well as the
fascinating ‘maison traditionelle’, where visitors can see inside a traditional Berber dwelling and glimpse How to
their ancient way of life, Tazka is also home to a famous pre-historic rock engraving which attracts Use
numerous tourists to the village.
Today, Tazka is a rapidly expanding suburb of Tafraout and new houses are being developed all along Overview
the recently surfaced road which runs out of town past the Hotel Les Amandiers down to the ancient Map
part of the village. In some cases this development is affecting access to the crags so climbers should be Crag
aware that approach routes may vary as construction work continues.
For climbers, the Tazka valley now offers some of Tafraout’s best and most accessible sport climbing, Selector
particularly around the end of the valley on the Tazka Domes and Tazka Crag itself, which is without Suggested
doubt the town’s premiere sport crag. Most routes can be accessed by foot or bike from Tafraout, and
with plenty to go at across the grades, this picturesque valley is ideal for some relaxed granite cragging Climbs
in the sunshine. Meanwhile, those in search of multi-pitch routes will enjoy the modern bolted routes on
Almond Buttress and the two Tazka Domes, all of which provide fun summit experiences with excellent Aday Road
views across town.

1200 Katja Broadbent making the long stride across from the pinnacle Tazka Road
1100 on pitch 4 of Almond Ridge (F5c) on Almond Buttress (page 55).
This fun roadside climb is the closest multi-pitch route to Hotel les Aguerd
1100 Oudad
Amandiers, and provides a pleasant evening amusement.
Photo: Steve Broadbent Awmrkt

ne Dou
Toulzoukht
yane Tor
Agadir Aousift

1132 Bouldering

1100

1159 History
Index
Elephant Rock
1150

Heyt Mharres
1157

leon’s
at

15

Aguerd
Oudad

Tor

54 TAZKA ROAD Map Page 52

Intro
Background

How to
Use

Overview
Map
Crag

Selector
Suggested

Climbs

Aday Road
Tazka Road

Aguerd
Oudad
Awmrkt
Dou
Toulzoukht
Aousift
Bouldering

History
Index

Steve Broadbent on Dark Side of the Moon (E1 5b / F6a) at Flor de Luna
(page 57). Like many climbs in Tafraout, this route has a‘traditional’feel
to it despite having bolts to protect the crux moves...
Photo: Katja Broadbent

Map Page 52 ALMOND BUTTRESS | TAZKA ROAD 55

A ALMOND BUTTRESS 1. Almond Ridge F5c SLAB SPORT Intro

Drive from Tafraout: 5 minutes 155m. A fun, low-commitment route with easy access Background
Shade Families Hitch Roadside Walk-in: 5 minutes from Tafraout. Difficulty is concentrated in the lower
section, but the hard moves are well bolted and very How to
This is the vague buttress on the south side of safe. The upper section features some very easy but well Use
the valley, just southwest of Hotel les Amandiers. positioned climbing on good rock. The climb is fully bolted
Although much of the route is scrambling and –1)ta4k0em12(Fq5uci)cSktdarratwusp. the mossy slab to gain the left side Overview
it is possible to walk off from all of the belays, of the vertical prow above. Excellent moves up this lead Map
it gives a surprisingly fun climb with excellent to an easier slab. Belay on a good ledge next to an argan Crag
views across town. tree.
The route stays in the shade until mid afternoon, 2) 30m (F5b) Go up easy cracks and blocks to a steep Selector
so is a good choice on hot mornings. Likewise, it wall. Step on to this from the right side and make a tricky Suggested
provides an excellent evening outing during the move past a bolt to an easy slab.
cooler months of winter. 3) 25m (F5a) Go up easy ground to the left side of the Climbs
Approach: Almond Ridge is one of the closest steep wall above. Move right across a hanging slab and
multi-pitch climbs to Tafraout and can be pull onto a short cracked slab above. Belay at a pinnacle. Aday Road
reached on foot from anywhere in town. If 4) 30m (F4) Walk down left and make a long stride across
approaching by car, park on the loop road just the gap to gain the easy-angled rib. Follow this to a belay Tazka Road
southwest of Hotel Les Amandiers, from where where it levels off.
the climb is reached in 5 minutes, diagonally up 5) 15m (F3) Walk along the ridge and scramble past a Aguerd
the hillside. banana gendarme to belay beneath the summit block. Oudad
6) 15m (F5a) Climb the slabby wall to the top.
 Descent: Walk leftwards past the first rocky summit until it is Awmrkt
Steve & Katja Broadbent, January 2018. Photo on page 53.
possible to scramble down left onto the hillside above the parking.
This can be descended easily to the road.

Dou
Toulzoukht

Aousift

Bouldering

1
History
Index

Area Map on page 52

PM 5m ALMOND BUTTRESS

62 TAZKA ROAD | The Tazka Domes Overview Map Page 52

Intro The Tazka Domes

Background At the end of the Tazka valley lie the two Tazka Domes – home to Tafraout’s highest concentration of
good quality, low-grade bolted routes. There’s everything here from single-pitch top-ropes to fun multi-
How to pitch climbs, all on solid granite and easily accessible from town, so it’s no wonder that these crags have
Use made Tazga one of the most popular sport climbing venues in the region.
All three crags face southeast and get lots of sunshine. As a result, they are best avoided during periods
Overview of warm weather, although there is some shade available later on in the afternoons. The routes have
Map been recently bolted, so the quality of protection and anchors is generally good, although details of
Crag who bolted many of these routes have not been forthcoming. In these cases, in order to avoid pages
of ‘unnamed’ routes, names have been applied retrospectively – if you have any more information then
Selector please do get in touch so that we can amend future editions of this guide.
Suggested There is a large parking area next to the last house on the Tazka road, right at the foot of Tazka Crag
itself. Approaches from here are shown on the photo-topo below.
Climbs
! CAUTION – There are a large number of beehives around the end of the track below the 2nd Dome,
Aday Road and aggressive swarms of bees have been reported. Climbers are advised to keep a safe distance and
avoid the water butts which are put out for the bees to drink from.

Tazka Road G. 2nd DOME
p64
Aguerd
Oudad Freeway Mamma Mia The Silk Road Col between
South Buttress 1st and 2nd
Awmrkt Central Walls
(page 65) (page 66) domes
Dou
Toulzoukht Prominent brown wall

Aousift

Bouldering

Many ! Bees!
cairns
Cairned way
History up slabs to col
Index between two domes

Small cairn

Go left across
stream here

Map Page 52 1200 The Tazka Domes Overview | TAZKA ROAD 63AlmondButtress
1100
Tazka
El Lanchar Rock Carving (Tazga)
1203
Ighir 
La Gazelle
n’Targant 1100 Flor de North Tor
Luna
1100 1061  1230
1100
Ancient Berber Cantilever Hidden Intro
House Tor Valley Tor

Aday Crags GP-S82.998.76051n3C5’Ta1an,rgchaont Tocho el 1147
Cancho Bastardo Regalito
Background
Cent
Cancho Rizo Palm Grove ValleyTocho de
1094 alleyTazka Hidden VHow to12
Use
Aday
1080 I. TAZKA
CRAG Overview
Cancho Alto p72 Tazka Tor Map

1100 1113 1230 Crag

tures Tazka Selector
TaHz.ga1sPpta6Ds9OME First Crag
CarpanYtelonmicoo Dome P Suggested
1140 Climbs

H. 1st DOME Aday Pastures G. 2nd DOME Second Palm
p69 p64 Dome Grove
1118 Crag

Southeast Face Montagny Tazka Valley Aday Road
(page 69) East Buttress
(page 71) Yellow Tor
I. TAZKA 1214Tazka Road
CRAG
p72 Aguerd
Oudad

Saddleback Tor Awmrkt

1158 H

Dou

Dark Tor Toulzoukht
Rainb

Aousift

1100 Bouldering

Awmrkt Tor
1160

Oudafne
1160
Agadir

Please be careful Track from centre History
not to damage of Tazka and Index
Tafraout
this wall
Tam
P

Dou
Toulzoukht

64 TAZKA ROAD | SECOND DOME | South Buttress Map Page 52

Intro F TAZKA’S SECOND DOME 10m South Buttress

Background Drive from Tafraout: 5 minutes One of the biggest and cleanest expanses of
Shade Families Hitch Roadside Walk-in: 10 minutes granite in the region, the South Buttress forms
How to the left-hand skyline as seen on the approach
Use Climbers looking for relaxed granite cragging, from Tazka.
with plenty of variety and lots of sunshine, need Approach: The easiest approach is made by
Overview look no further than Tazka’s Second Dome. following a good path on the opposite side of
Map This excellent little summit has long been a the valley. From the parking, continue along the
Crag popular ‘rest-day’ objective, as it combines a good track past the beehives, then bear left and
short approach with lots of fun climbing and cross the watercourse to gain a well-cairned trail
Selector magnificent views from the airy summit. on the east side of the valley. Follow this until
Suggested The dome is best known for the very popular directly opposite Freeway, where it is easy to cut
easy route Freeway, but in recent years a number back across to the base of the crag. See overview
Climbs of equally worthwhile routes have been added, on page 62.
including a handful of single-pitch bolted lines
Aday Road and some excellent trad climbs as well.  Descent: Head up rightwards over the fine little summit,
Much potential for development still exists, so
it is possible that climbers will find new bolted then descend the northeast ridge a short way until it is possible to
lines not described here. scramble down on the left (north) side of the ridge to the broad col
between the two domes and an easy walk back to the valley. Since
Tazka Road the descent comes out close to the parking it is advisable not to
leave anything at the base of the route.
Aguerd
Oudad

Awmrkt

Dou
Toulzoukht

Aousift

Bouldering

History
Index

Marion Wyllie enjoying the excellent run-out padding on the top
pitch of Freeway (F4) as the sun sets on Tazka’s Second Dome.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

Map Page 52 South Buttress | SECOND DOME | TAZKA ROAD 65

1. Freeway F4 BOLD SLAB SPORT 3. Piste d’Or F5a ABSEIL SLAB SPORT Intro

120m. Enjoyable easy padding up the left side of the 35m. Very pleasant but slightly bold climbing, sharing Background
south face, with fine views from the summit, particularly the last bolt with the next route. 5 bolts to the Freeway
at sunset. Too easy to be called a sport route, Freeway is belay. How to
best described as an easy multi-pitch route with bolts: Use
great for rest days, kids and bimbles! The route and belays 4. The Mirror F5c
are fully equipped, requiring 10 quickdraws. ABSEIL SLAB SPORT Overview
Map
1) 35m (F4) Start close to the arête at the left side of the 35m. Tricky smearing up the smooth slab. 6 bolts to the Crag
Freeway belay.
dome. A few tricky slab moves gain easier ground, then Selector
an easy traverse leads up rightward to a belay. Suggested
2) 45m (F4) Runout padding up bobbly granite. Belay at 5. Eve F5c ABSEIL SLAB SPORT
Climbs
the right side of a cave. 35m. The right-hand line has some hard climbing low
down, easing considerably in its upper half. 7 bolts to a Aday Road
3) 30m (F4-) Walk up right then mantel up the steep lower-off.
left wall. Walk up, then to the right, to finish up the final Tazka Road
bolted slab. Descend by continuing up over the summit 6. TheTurtle’s Head / Shardana HVS 5b
and down the northeast ridge. TRAD Aguerd
Oudad
Steve Broadbent & Anna Piotrowski, October 2013. Photo on page 64. 110m. Good climbing up the obvious crack system.
1) 30m (5b) Make difficult moves off blocks to get Awmrkt
established, then move right to climb a corner. Traverse
2. Cul-de-Sac F4+ CARE ABSEIL SLAB SPORT boldly rightwards at the top of this to reach a belay in the Dou
Toulzoukht
60m. The line of bolts just right of the round hole main crack system.
provides a worthwhile alternative to the first pitch of
Freeway. A second pitch up the left side of the upper slab 2) 50m (4c) Follow the diagonal crack to gain the easy
slab beneath the roof. Follow this to belay under the roof.
has some very easy climbing, but no bolts at the anchor... 3) 30m (4a) Avoid the roof on the right-hand side then
1) 35m (F4+) Six bolts to a shared anchor with Freeway.
2) 25m (F4) The upper pitch finishes in the middle of the continue up the shallow corner above to the summit.

slab, and has no anchor. It is therefore best avoided! Bruce Kerry, James Strongman & Jason Clifford, March 2006.

A line believed to be similar was also reported here as ‘Shardana’ by Marco

Marrosu & Francesco Ruiu, April 2015.

Aousift

Bouldering

2

6 History
Index
23
14 Area Overview on page 62

5 10m South Buttress

72 TAZKA ROAD | TAZKA CRAG Map Page 52

Intro I TAZKA CRAG
Background
Drive from Tafraout: 5 minutes
How to Shade Families Hitch Roadside Walk-in: 2 to 5 minutes
Use
This excellent little sport crag is located just
Overview minutes from the parking spot at the end of
Map the Tazka road. It is well bolted with modern
Crag expansion bolts, and now represents Tafraout’s
best venue for low- to mid-grade bolt clipping.
Selector The crag is a bit of a sun trap, but the right-hand
Suggested face does go into shade around mid-afternoon
and can provide a welcome escape from the
Climbs usual heat.
First ascent details for this crag are not known,
Aday Road and so names have been applied retrospectively
Tazka Road in order to avoid an entire crag of ‘unnamed’
routes – if you have any more information about
Aguerd these climbs then please get in touch so that we
Oudad can update future editions.
Awmrkt Approach: This is probably Tafraout’s most
Dou accessible crag, being located just yards from the
Toulzoukht parking area. With such easy access and good
Aousift quality climbing, it sees plenty of traffic and so it
Bouldering is particularly important to take great care not
to damage the stone wall next to the car park
History – there is an easier crossing point underneath
Index the large argan tree.

Mark Stevenson above the bouldery H. 1st DOME
crux of Don Karnage (F7a) on the Front p69
Face of Tazka Crag (page 74).
Photo: Steve Broadbent I. TAZKA
CRAG
p72

Left Side
(page 73)

Right Side
(page 75)

Please be careful Front Face
not to damage (page 74)

this wall

P

Map Page 52 Left Side | TAZKA CRAG | TAZKA ROAD 73

PM 5m The Left Side Intro

The left-hand side of the crag has some well-bolted Background
easy lines that stay in the sun for most of the day.
How to
Descent: These routes have double-bolt chain lower-offs. Use

1. Aladdin F3+ SLAB SPORT Overview
Map
18m. The attractive rib is as easy as they come. Five
bolts to a chain lower-off. Crag
Selector
2. Arista F4+
Suggested
Climbs

SLAB SPORT

20m. The runnel and slab above. Five bolts.

3. Calliope F4 SLAB SPORT Jim Nuttall on Arista Aday Road
(F4+) at Tazka Crag. Tazka Road
25m. Nice climbing up from the large boulder. Five bolts Photo: Steve Broadbent
to the lower-off.

Area Overview on page 62 Aguerd
Oudad

PM 5m TAZKA CRAG | Left Side Awmrkt

20m Dou
Toulzoukht
18m 25m

Aousift

Bouldering

1 History
2 Index

3

80 AGUERCemDeteOry UDACeDmete|ryAREA MAP 1100 Map Page 80
11
TAFRAOUT Sch. Aguerd Oudad
(Tafraoute)
Intro Camping 3 Palms N (see p30 for Overview Map)
Scale 1:25 000
Hotel Medical Centre
Tifawine 0m 200m 400m 600m 800m 1km

Background Post Coin de  Hotel Les Amis
Office Nomad
How to  Maison Troc
Use Hotel Salama

Overview Hotel San
Map Antoine

ping Crag Hotel Les
e Rose Selector Amandiers

Suggested Sch. Amandiers Tor
Climbs 1100

Aday Road Almond Buttress Basalt River 1200Imyane
1100
Tazka Road 1100 North Tor A. SECTOR P GPS 29.71060,
IBRAHIM 1100-8.96798
Flor de
Luna 1230 p82 Sector Ibrahim
Aguerd Cirque
CanOtiuledvaedr Hidden Cirque du Soleil C.dWu SILoDleCilAT Imyane Tor
Valley Tor WALL Agadir
Tor p92
el 1132 B. IMYANE
o Awmrkt 1147 DQ. UFLAAKKFElEake Tor p86
E. TRANSAHARANIA p94 1207
p96 P
Central Tor Turning awkward
DoToucho de to spot
Grove ValleyToulzouTakzhktaHidden V 1230
alley F. HIGH TOR
Flake Quake
p98

Aousift High Tor 1159

Tazka Tor G. BLACK 1230 P
Bouldering WALL 1200 P Elephant Rock
p100 ValleBylack Wall
1230 1150 L. ELEPHANT O. TAGHZOUT
Wall 1108 ROCK CRAGS
H. LOVERS’ Black P p110 p118
CRAG
p103 1100 N. SAN
DIMAS
J. HYPER Lovers’ Crag Heyt Mharres p117
CRACK 1157
p105The Fortress

High Sierra 1116

1160 P Napoleon’s M. HEYT
Hat MHARRES
Yellow Tor I. JAFFA Agadir 
1214 FLAKE 1115 p115
p104
History K. NAPOLEON’S Aguerd
pVHi1lAl0aT8ge Tor Oudad

Index Sierra Vall ey GPS 29.69841,
Saddleback Tor Dove Aguerd Slabs -8.96674
1158
High mrkt ValleyTor

Dark Tor Rainbow Tor

Aw

Awmrkt Tor First Tor

Map Page 80 INTRODUCTION | AGUERD OUDAD 81

AGUERD OUDAD Intro

Heading south out of Tafraout, the R107 passes through a narrow valley and the ancient agadir of Background
Imyane. Beyond this, the valley opens out into a dramatic landscape of granite tors around the affluent
village of Aguerd Oudad, which is located approximately 3km south of Tafraout itself. How to
The village has always been a popular stop for tourists, and is generally considered to be the gateway Use
to Tafraout’s beautiful granite back-country. Towering seemingly straight up above the narrow red-brick
streets and artistically decorated houses is the striking monolith of Napoleon’s Hat – one of Tafraout’s Overview
most famous natural features and a magnet for climbers and tourists alike. The summit, an ancient Map
agadir in which Berbers would traditionally keep the village valuables, is not attainable without some Crag
climbing skills, although many people walk up as far as the Balcony on the southwest face to enjoy
magnificent views along the Awmrkt Valley towards the painted rocks. Selector
Surrounding Napoleon’s Hat itself, of course, is an array of granite domes which have plenty to offer Suggested
visiting climbers, including two of Tafraout’s best sport crags (The Black Wall and Elephant Rock)
alongside many test-piece trad cracks and the odd multi-pitch route. The crags generally have Climbs
straightforward approaches and due to their proximity to Tafraout they make good venues for climbers
without their own transport – the walk from the centre of Tafraout to Aguerd Oudad typically takes Aday Road
approximately 30 minutes.

Dawn light on the east face of Tazka Road
Napoleon’s Hat above Aguerd Oudad.
Aguerd
Photo: Steve Broadbent Oudad

Awmrkt

Dou
Toulzoukht

Aousift

Bouldering

History
Index

98 AGUERD OUDAD | HIGH TOR | Eastern Slopes Map Page 80

Intro Area Map on page 80 Summit of High Tor

Background 20m HIGH TOR | East Slopes 5
4
How to 23
Use 1

Overview
Map

Crag
Selector

Suggested
Climbs

Aday Road F HIGH TOR – Eastern Slopes Alternative GPS 29.70025,
Tazka Road approach from -8.96785
Drive from Tafraout: 5 minutes
Aguerd Shade Families Hitch Roadside Walk-in: 20 to 25 minutes Tafraout F. TRANSAHARANIA
Oudad F. HIGH TOR p96
Awmrkt To the left (west) of Flake Quake lies a narrow East Slopes
Dou boulder-choke at the entrance to the remote P
Toulzoukht Black Wall Valley. This scenic valley runs up past p98 P
Aousift the Black Wall to the eastern slopes of High Tor,
Bouldering where a handful of isolated climbs lie scattered G. BLACK H. LOVERS’
across the hillside. WALL CRAG
History With a sunny, southerly aspect and stunning, p100 p103
Index wild scenery, the eastern slopes of High Tor are
one of Tafraout’s most picturesque places to
climb – here climbers will enjoy the very best of
Tafraout’s remote back-country, just 20 minutes
from the car.
Approach: A narrow track leaves the main
Aguerd Oudad road (R107) just south of the
narrowest part of the valley, running in a
southwesterly direction beneath Flake Quake
and the boulder-choke entrance to Black Wall
Valley. Park carefully on this track, taking care not
to block the track or damage irrigated crops.
From the track, the easiest approach is to follow
a shallow gully / ramp directly up to the Black
Wall, from where the various small crags on High
Tor can be identified. Climbers without transport
can also make the approach on foot via Cirque
du Soleil and the east col of High Tor (see map on
page 80 for this approach).

P
P

Map Page 80 Eastern Slopes | HIGH TOR | AGUERD OUDAD 99

Area Map on page 80 Summit of High Tor Intro

25m HIGH TOR | Upper Walls 5 Background

How to
Use

Overview
Map

Crag
Selector

Suggested
Climbs

1. Piton Crack E3 6a UNCHECKED THIN TRAD 25m Upper Walls Aday Road

20m. Little is known about the thin crack, but it sports Situated just below the 1230m summit of Tazka Road
some old pitons and looks very hard indeed... High Tor, the Upper Walls are home to a single,
excellent route in a commanding position above Aguerd
2. Dodo’s Hallelujah HVS 4c TRAD Black Wall Valley. Oudad
Approach: The outcrop can be approached
25m. The groove / crack-line to the left of Habanero either via the Black Wall and up Black Wall Valley Awmrkt
has a difficult start with good climbing above. Follow the as for the other routes, or by passing over the col
main crack until a step left gains the left-hand crack in the from Tafraout and Cirque du Soleil (see map). Dou
upper slab. Belay at a prominent boulder. Toulzoukht

Steve & Katja Broadbent, March 2018.

3. Habanero E1 5b CRACK TRAD 5. Wafa Thin HVS 4c Aousift
20m. A superb crack climb up the tempting wide Bouldering
BOLD TRAD

splitter, with difficult moves to get established before a 30m. The left-trending undercut flake is a remarkable
magnificent layback finale. feature, held to the rock by little more than wishful
thinking. Follow the flake carefully, with some
Photo on page 97.

4. Scotch Bonnet E1 5b CRACK TRAD trepidation...

15m. The short hand-crack, located some 50 metres Steve & Katja Broadbent, March 2018.

right of Habanero.

G. BLACK Habanero Upper Walls Col over to Cirque du
WALL Soleil and Tafraout
p100 3 5

E. TRANSAHARANIA History
p96 Index

Boulder-choke gully
at entrance to
Black Wall Valley

Towards main road

134 AWMRKT | HIGH SIERRA DOME Map Page 122

Intro J. OFF-WIDTHS I. HIGH SIERRA
BEYOND DOME
Background p139 p134

How to GPS 29.69199,
Use -8.96921

Overview H. AGUERD P
Map SLABS
Crag p133 Wadi crossing
(you’ve gone too far if
Selector
Suggested you hit this!)

Climbs K HIGH SIERRA DOME Approach: The shortest approach is from
parking as for the Aguerd Slabs (see map
Aday Road Drive from Tafraout: 10 minutes above). Turn off the R107 into Aguerd Oudad,
Shade Families Hitch Roadside Walk-in: 10 to 15 minutes following the brick road through the centre of
Tazka Road the village and leaving the main square via the
Located due west of Napoleon’s Hat, on the small track next to the shop. Follow this track
Aguerd north side of the peaceful High Sierra Valley, this out of the village, passing a gate, and on into
Oudad excellent granite dome is identifiable by a huge the Awmrkt Valley. Just before the first wadi
flake up its southern front – the line taken by one crossing a smaller track turns off on the right.
Awmrkt of the most popular granite climbs in the area. Follow this and park at its end, next to a large
Although it is High Sierra which sees most traffic, sandy wadi. The tor is visible approximately 1km
Dou all of the multi-pitch routes here are worth to the northwest. Continue on foot, crossing the
Toulzoukht climbing, making this one of Tafraout’s top spots main Awmrkt watercourse and passing ancient
for mid-grade multi-pitch granite trad climbing. agriculture to gain the entrance to High Sierra
Aousift The routes get lots of sunshine, and are best Valley.
avoided during very hot weather.
Bouldering

Alternative scramble
descent down east face

History 1
Index 2

5

Map Page 122 HIGH SIERRA DOME | AWMRKT 135

Photo: Anne Linda van Kappel Area Map on page 122

Bolted top pitch up summit block 15m HIGH SIERRA DOME | South Face Intro
(see High Sierra, next page)
 Descent: The easiest descent from the summit is to Background
Northwest col
descent continue along the broad summit ridge to the northwest col, How to
close to Offwidths Beyond (see map opposite). Turn left at the col Use
and descend southwards to pick up a vague trail that returns to
the valley floor amongst large boulders. Overview
It is also possible to scramble rightwards off the summit and Map
descend the east face (two awkward steps).
Crag
Selector

Suggested
Climbs

Southwest Corner Aday Road
(next page)
Tazka Road
Aguerd
Oudad
Awmrkt
Dou

Toulzoukht
Aousift

Bouldering

1. My First Little Crack VS 5a SLAB TRAD

130m. Some good climbing up the left-hand side of the History
1
front face, featuring a short difficult crux at a prominent
triangular roof. Index
1) 45m (4a) Climb slabs up the left side of a huge blocky
flake to reach a good ledge.
2) 40m (-) Move to the left end of the ledge and go up
over large blocks to a ledge directly below the prominent
triangular roof.
3) 15m (5a) Climb up to a block beneath the roof, then
leave it awkwardly for athletic moves rightwards to a
belay just above the right-hand side of the roof.
4) 30m (-) Easy scrambling up the vegetated groove to
the top.

Tim Dufour & Stéphane Massin, February 2018.

150 AOUSIFT Map Page 152

Intro
Background

How to
Use

Overview
Map
Crag

Selector
Suggested

Climbs

Aday Road
Tazka Road

Aguerd
Oudad
Awmrkt
Dou
Toulzoukht
Aousift
Bouldering

History
Index

Judith Neaves on Gecko Highway (F5b) at the Aousift Slabs
(page 155). Despite some flaky rock, this sunny roadside
crag has a lot to offer for lovers of bold friction climbing.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

Map Page 152 AOUSIFT 151

Intro

Background
How to
Use
Overview
Map
Crag
Selector

Suggested

6. AOUSIFT Climbs
Aday Road

Tazka Road
Aguerd
Oudad
Awmrkt
Dou

Toulzoukht
Aousift

Bouldering

History
Index

152 AOUSIFT | AREA MAP Map Page 152

Intro Aousift Area R107 towards
Aguerd Oudad and
Background N (See page 30 for Overview Map)
Scale 1:25 000 Tafraout
How to
Use 0m 200m 400m 600m 800m 1km

Overview Awmrkt track
Map

Crag
Selector

Suggested
Climbs

Aday Road E. AMALU
Tazka Road WALL
p163
Aguerd
Oudad These tracks are not always
Awmrkt passable without 4WD
Dou
Toulzoukht D. PAINTED
Aousift ROCKS
Bouldering p160

History P A. AOUSIFT
Index SLABS
Use this track to p154
access Painted
Rocks by car GPS 29.66994,
-8.97394

Dou Toulzoukht track These tracks are not passable by car

Do not block GPS 29.66393, P
turnoff – it is -8.96075
used by locals
for access! Turn off to Painted B. EAST
Rocks (signposted) SLABS
p156

Please park carefully on roadside, leaving

P enough space for lorries to pass.

RoMadatnosoAuitr

C. EFLODNE
p158

GPS 29.65943,
-8.97915

Map Page 152 INTRODUCTION | AOUSIFT 153

AOUSIFT Intro

The R107 runs south out of Tafraout, passing Aguerd Oudad and Napoleon’s hat before arriving at the Background
small village of Aousift. Beyond this, the road reaches the roadside Aousift slabs just before a fork, where
the Ait Mansour road climbs up into the mountains. Just south of this is the turn-off to the Painted Rocks How to
– the start of the Dou Toulzoukht track, which meanders its way westward past Eflodne, the Painted Use
Rocks and Dou Toulzoukht, before joining the R104 (Aday Road) just south of Afella Ouday.
The Painted Rocks themselves are one of Tafraout’s most famous tourist attractions, playing host not just Overview
to coaches and tour groups, but also year-round travellers and frequent desert raves. Indeed, at certain Map
times of year the landscape between the Painted Rocks and Awmrkt becomes covered in camper vans Crag
and converted vehicles of all shapes and sizes, and when one of the raves is taking place it can be
impossible to climb here. Selector
For climbers, the Painted Rocks are hardly the main attraction, although an ascent of Azules de Vergara is Suggested
always popular for novelty value. This area does, however, have two more important crags, with Amalu
Wall providing some of the region's hardest sport climbing, and Eflodne being just about the best spot Climbs
for longer, lower grade routes. Both stay in the shade for most of the day and are therefore good options
for those wishing to escape from the heat. Aday Road

Tazka Road

Aguerd
Oudad

Awmrkt

Dou
Toulzoukht

Aousift

Bouldering

History
Index

The Painted Rocks are a striking feature on Tafraout’s
semi-desert landscape, with Jebel el Kest behind.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

160 AOUSIFT | PAINTED ROCKS | Blue Boulder Map Page 152

Intro D THE PAINTED ROCKS Catherine Kenyon on the irresistable Azules de
Vergara (HVS 5a) at the Painted Rocks.
Background Drive from Tafraout: 15 minutes Photo: Ron Kenyon
Shade Families Hitch Roadside Walk-in: 2 minutes
How to 1. Azules de Vergara HVS 5a CRACK TRAD
Use Painted in 1984 by Belgian artist Jean Veramme,
Tafraout’s painted rocks have always been 25m. The striking crack up the largest blue boulder isn’t
Overview a popular bohemian hang-out. Today, they the best climb in the area, but is very, well... blue! As a
Map continue to draw all sorts of visitors who result it is a local classic and one of the most frequently
Crag generally mill around, wondering what they are climbed granite routes in Tafraout. Once bolted, it now
doing there almost as much as they wonder why provides a slippery trad route of undeniable curiosity.
Selector Veramme painted the rocks in the first place.
Suggested One thing, however, cannot be denied – the
rocks are a bizarre and striking sight in the pink
Climbs desert, and they certainly provide a talking point
for the hundreds of visitors that find themselves
Aday Road there each year.
The painted rocks are also the unexpected
Tazka Road location for numerous desert raves, which take
place here traditionally each New Year, February,
Aguerd and late summer – events which attract revellers
Oudad from across Europe, who turn up in force in
camper vans and converted vehicles of all
Awmrkt shapes and sizes.
For climbers, the rocks are best known as a
Dou good place to spend a few hours on a wet day,
Toulzoukht although the two trad routes here are actually
well worth a visit in their own right.
Aousift Approach: The rocks are easily reached by car
from Tafraout in about 10 to 15 minutes. Drive
Bouldering south out of town, through Aguerd Oudad and
Aousift, as far a turn-off on the right about 1.5km
after leaving Aousift. See map on page 152. Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1996. Photo this page.
The rocks can also be reached by walking from
Aguerd Oudad up the valley past the third Tor, Area Map on page 152
or from Tazka by continuing up the path beyond
Tazka’s Palm Grove. 2m PAINTED ROCKS

Negro
Azabache

History
Index

1