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A preview of the 2018 Climb Tafraout Granite guidebook.
The climbing here is characterised by short approaches, year-round sunshine, and one of the most beautiful landscapes on Earth. This guidebook describes almost 250 routes, from desperate jamming cracks and monster off-widths to delicate, bolt-protected slab climbs and desert boulder problems, all located within 7km of Tafraout. As well as clear, detailed mapping, the book includes full background information and photo topos throughout.

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Published by The Oxford Alpine Club, 2019-11-18 05:48:04

Tafraout Granite

A preview of the 2018 Climb Tafraout Granite guidebook.
The climbing here is characterised by short approaches, year-round sunshine, and one of the most beautiful landscapes on Earth. This guidebook describes almost 250 routes, from desperate jamming cracks and monster off-widths to delicate, bolt-protected slab climbs and desert boulder problems, all located within 7km of Tafraout. As well as clear, detailed mapping, the book includes full background information and photo topos throughout.

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Map Page 152 Black Boulder | PAINTED ROCKS | AOUSIFT 161

Area Map on page 152 Intro

AM 2m PAINTED ROCKS | Black Boulder Background

How to
Use

Overview
Map

Crag
Selector

Suggested
Climbs

AM 3m The Black Boulder Aday Road
Tazka Road
This overhanging boulder is located to the right
of the main blue boulder (see photo opposite). Aguerd
Oudad
2. Negro Azabache E5 6c STEEP Awmrkt
Dou
CRACK TRAD 2 Toulzoukht
Aousift
10m. Lurking behind the black boulder, this perfect Bouldering
splitter is one of Tafraout’s most infamous fist-crack
challenges, and what it lacks in length it more than makes History
up for in other ways. Brilliant! F7a+ Index

Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1996.

3. Sit Start E6 6c? STEEP

CRACK TRAD

12m. The sit start to Negro Azabache starts from the
very back of the roof. Tape up, and be ready for slippery
horizontal weirdness. F7c.

Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1996.

164 BOULDERING Map Page 166

Intro
Background

How to
Use

Overview
Map
Crag

Selector
Suggested

Climbs

Aday Road
Tazka Road

Aguerd
Oudad
Awmrkt
Dou
Toulzoukht
Aousift
Bouldering

History
Index

Bouldering on the Second Tor in the Awmrkt Valley, in the
heart of Tafraout's granite back-country.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

Map Page 166 BOULDERING 165

7. BOULDERING Intro

Background

How to
Use

Overview
Map

Crag
Selector

Suggested
Climbs

Aday Road

Tazka Road
Aguerd
Oudad
Awmrkt
Dou

Toulzoukht
Aousift

Bouldering

History
Index

166 BOULDERING | AREA MAP Map Page 166

P A. TOCHO BOULDERS
p168

Intro Aday GPS 29.72674, Camping 3 Palms TAFRAOUT
Peak -8.97949 (Tafraoute)
Background
1353 MAISON TROC
How to Bouldering Mat
Use Camping 
Granite Rose Rental
Overview
Map Hotel Les
Amandiers
Crag
Selector PGPS 29.70817, Camping Imyane
-8.99564 Tazga
Suggested D. ELEPHANT
Climbs Ighir n’Targant Tazka BOULDERS
(Tazga)
Aday p175

Aday Road GPS 29.70210,
-8.96583
Tazka Road B. HIGH COUNTRY
BOULDERS P

p170

Aguerd R104 GPS 29.69199, C. AGUERD Aguerd
Oudad Afella Ouday -8.96921 BOULDERS Oudad

Awmrkt p172 P

Dou R107
Toulzoukht

Aousift GPS 29.68782, P
-8.97183
Bouldering E. 2nd TOR
BOULDERS
A note on grades...
p176
Tafrout bouldering has never really
been about grades – the hard P F. 3rd TOR
problems have never been recorded BOULDERS
and the circuits are more about
having fun than ticking grades. The p177
circuit colours therefore have only a
History loose correlation with the difficulty GPS 29.68082, G. TAMAYURT
of the problems. Very approximately, -8.97833 BOULDERS
Index they equate as follows:
p178
White – Children's circuit
Green – Very Easy circuit MAISON TROC Route Imyane,Tafraout Aousift
Yellow – Easy circuit
Blue – Easy circuit 
Red – Intermediate circuit
Pink – Traditional Painted Rocks

Maps | Guidebooks | Bouldering Mat Rental

Map Page 166 INTRODUCTION | BOULDERING 167

Intro

Background

How to
Use

Overview
Map

Crag
Selector

Suggested
Climbs

Aday Road

Tazka Road

Aguerd
Oudad

Awmrkt

On the kid’s white circuit at Tamayurt Rocks – Dou
a brilliant place for the whole family to enjoy Toulzoukht

the magical Awmrkt landscape. Aousift
Photo: Steve Broadbent Bouldering

BOULDERING History
Index
The bouldering scene in Tafraout has always been somewhat esoteric thanks to the coarse-grained
nature of the granite, but it can be considered in two broad categories.
Firstly, isolated boulders dotted around the landscape have seen hard and high-quality bouldering
problems established since the 1960s. These ascents have traditionally been left unrecorded, and
finding details of individual problems for this volume has proved impossible. Climbers wishing to
explore the town’s upper-grade bouldering are therefore invited and encouraged to head off into the
back-country with an open mind, and explore the wonderful potential that exists.
In more recent years, a number of low-grade bouldering circuits have been developed around the town,
involving predominantly friction climbing on granite of mixed quality. On these easier problems, the
occasional section of crumbly rock is less of a problem, and although it can be somewhat disconcerting
on a first visit, all of these circuits can provide a fun afternoon of easy rock and beautiful scenery, perfect
for a rest day or evening picnic.
In most cases, the landings are good, though many people will prefer to make use of a bouldering
mat – these can be rented from Maison Troc on the R107 heading south from the centre of Tafraout (see
map).
A number of circuits have been developed specifically for young children, and the bouldering here has
been found to be particularly family friendly.


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