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Published by IKBN Peretak, 2021-03-31 23:36:10

Culinary Artistry

Culinary Artistry

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h a second sheet of rarc~ment paper with olive oil and place on top of the potato slices. Bake them
4. Bru~s ~n for 15 to 18 mmutes. The potato chips w1l1 turn into a beautl-ful dark-bl~oomI IDd be

1[1 slucent. Remove from the heat and set aside in a dry spot.
Jhnost tran

Cauliflower Puree

(t . he outside leaves of the cauliflower. separate it into florets. and wash it. Cook the cauliflower in

Take ,1 . (t' htly salted L[1m'1-mg \\.ater. When I.t I-S absoIuteIy soft. dram. I.t. Place the cauliflower in a medium-

,Ji:rel1s[a0u1ceIpgot. Add 3 ta.blesp~ns, f ~ream and• usm- g a wh'I.sk. mash I.t m. t~ a puree over medium heat. Go

0

, _. ~)r 4 to 5 mmutes to elimmate any excess of mOlsture--otherwlse when blended the puree will
l10 surTIng l
_ • •
be [(10 runny. Transfer the mixture to a blender and puree until you obtain a very smooth texture. Season

wtaste. Transfer the puree to a small pot and keep hot.

Watercress Sauce

I. Wash the watercres and trim off the leave . Di 'card the terns. Cook the leaves in a pot of boiling salt-
ed \\'ater just until tender. about 3 to 4 minute. Drain in a 'trainer. Save 1/2 cup of cooking liquid.
Refresh the leave under cold running water. In a mall aucepot, heat one teaspoon olive oil.

2. Add the chopped hallot and cook to a light golden color. Deglaze with white wine and reduce to
almost dry. Add 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid and one table poon cream; season with salt and pepper.
Bring to a boil and lower the heat to a immer for 2 minute . then add the cooked watercress leaves.
Tran fer to a blender. blend the mixture for one mmute. and you will obtain a light and very tasty water-
ere auce. Check the seasoning.

Fini hing and Pre entation

Carefully divide the cauliflower puree in the center f four plate. Top the puree with the caviar. Spoon the

a.terctess sauce all around the cauliflower. Decorate with the potato chip by ticking them around the
cauliflower puree. prinkle with chive and chopped egg yolk.

d:- !essN .The blue potato chips definitely add a dramatic look to thi deliciou di h. A an option, but a
matte one, red potatoe can be u d for chip; so can blanched asparagu tip.

~t blue potatoes or purple potatoes: they have a deep blue kin. The fle h i bright blue and the flavor

texture are lmlhar to russets. They originate and are very popular in the South American Andes.

• c • n_

Gray Kunz

LESP1NASSE
Net!' York, Neu: York

I CREDlE"ITS:

I----f. Potatoes, carrots, leeks, onions. I'd want to bring some nourishment, first.

). Coriander.
6. Bay leaves.

-I . Coconut.

Sugar cane.
9 Salt.
lL. \\'ater.

Kun: ratded off hi. list with the a~ urance ,,f ~omeone who had just finished thinking about exactly
thl question. '0 meat? Kun: claims, "1 woukln't miS, It ~\) much." And he says he'd look for fish and

other local ineredlenc to cook with.

TE H lQl E :

1. Brai ing.

2. Simmering.

3. Steaming.

Kunz expl In mat all of th e t hmyue ,-on emr te the fLlVor of the ingredients heing cooked into

the hqUld. - ~-----.---------

.----~--

~--------------------~~~-ry-:S~u-e~~~l='ll~ik~e-n--------------------------­

BORDER GRILL

Santa Maruca. Ca/ifomia

INGREDIENTS:

1. 1JIack pepper. I love it.

()live oiJ. It's tOO hard to make from scratch.

2. I need it to flavor everything.

3. sV'-aane-gatri· rice. I adore it. It has such a fabulous aroma-l could eat it every day.
4.

5. Salt. Idon't want to get it out of the ocean.

6. T()IIIIltoeSo Ripe and beautiful ones.

n_-..J..,rftes. Perfectly ripe, they're my favorite fruit.

7. I\PI'"""
8. Cheese- Vacherin. It's only available around my birthday (which is in February).

9. ArugUIa. A good source of calcium.
10. Red wiDe- A really incredible one, to go with the cheese.

Milliken rook some coaxlng to answer the questlOO. ". want to have anything. want whenever I want
it," she complained. But then her ingenuity Jumped into action. "Can you fish there?" she asked h0pe-

fully.

1. r. II ' •• If yoo pm_ TE H IOllE :

m the pan and can make a sauce. I lib the ar....diIIlda..

2. BI 'r' I I In 73He CUD ci meat--thev have more flavor, more character. "$

1 Bel' .la......Ie. P. I..n.5 I worked-on ~~ m a bakery.

Wayne Nish

MARCH
New Yorlc. New Yorlc

I REDlENT:

1. 0Ii oil (Mosto).

2. t. When I went to Barbados twO months ago. I rook a bottle of olive oil and a bag

thole are far and away my pnonnes.

__3. V...-1b.1 quid claIM'" that can be used effecnvely m buildma up layen of flavor
... am... thin the dish. You imply make a dilh. more COIlI_

~~--dM~~

Patrick O'Connell

THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTON
Washington. Virginia

. hink I'd bother with anything but water. I'd regard it as a great cleansing, to rise above food. Why
wIod~oIndbetIitnwgatnhtirfsotoydraotnhear desert'ISIandl. ' Tt1h0inskurIvi.~voeu.IlWd fhaystwaonudlddiIe.wAanntdtotrasnusrvceivned.oCn eartdaeinselyrt
unpleasant. I island? I just
one wouldn't

fln ook for God's sake! For myself!! I can t relate to that.
want (I0thCink , . r .
be perfectly content raw and or whatever. 1think there's going to be
I'd eating rOod, foraging,

rnU Ch Iearned in the next hundred years about. why we do what we do to food even though very often it's
essary. Why we cook food, why we replicate tastes from childhood, why we go through the whole
rurnonceecss
hen raw food would be fine. Obviously, it's doing it for others. It's doing it to express love and cod-
w .. , .
dling and all of this. But It Isn t something that I would ever feel I needed to do for myself. I'm looking to

get beyond it.
I recognize that food is a focus--it' a way of manipulating and controlling people into a sort of

hei htened state and it' a vehicle that provides them with a connection. And it is powerful. But there's a
di;ension and a level beyond it. There' sort of a high without it. And even fasting is a fabulous high. But

food is a fabulous anchor, too-food, and working with food. And that's what it's done for me, as a person-

it's kept me from flying off. Or being shot down.
What on earth do people ay they'd bring to a desert i land? Butter? Olive oil?
I would welcome the experience of tarting fre h-{)f going to a desert i land not having any idea of

what was there, and looking upon it as dropping all the old baggage and developing an entirely new palate

and new mode of survival.

Bradle) Ogden

LARK CREEK INN
ONE /--IARKET RESTAURANT

'sdn FrancIsco , California

I <.;lHJ)IlNT~:

1. Corn . There 's nothing better than fres h corn, right off the stalk. I still remember sitting in a corn patch
on my grandmothe r's farm, eating it nght off the stalk.

2. Tomatoes. T here's nothing better th an vine-ripened tomatoes, with a sprinkle of salt. When I Wa

Fre,~grOWll1g up, we llsed to eat them in movie theatres. (See Bradley Ogden 's recipe for Chilled

Tomato Soup on page 349.)

3. Beluga caviar. I love It with warm bl mi~.

4. Fraises des bois (wild strawberries). Right off the vine, they have the mllst intense flavor.

) . Lobster. Maine lohqe r, nght out of the water.

6. Free-range chicken.
7. Basil. If 1 haJ to ,"0 to "Ieep WIth all herb, thl I' the one. It'... my t,1\'orite to conk with.

Chiles. T hey enhance and add pice ,md ltfe to m re II n .

9. Artichokes. They're one of O1} fl\ome gelable; I u e them with ,dmo't anything.

10. Balsamic vinegar. It" 01, ail-tim ,\\( nt \IIlC ·ar.l\e be n a II ed lIt <tITyml( ,lTl\\md ,I hottle In my

rack pocket.

Ogden t-alb at not bemg able [0 \ II t ke all n .lprle, blud 'rrte ,('herrie , IlII1~k !Il('!\l\b, ,m,j mUfek

"When the} 're 111 ,ea on, there' n thin ~et er!"

E H lQl E :

1. pit-roa!>ting. It' a clean \\ a~ 0 (,00 In'

2. Grilling. Yuu don'( hd\'e to u c a I (0 fit, anJ )U un gl.:t thin' n r on the out Ide.

3. teaming. It alhm ,ou to retam all the nutnenb md d rth 0 lolor.

- - - ----------------~- -~----- -------

Chilled Fresh Tomato Soup with Pepper Relish

by Bradley Ogden

SERV ES 4 - 6

2 pounds firm, ripe tomatoes
1/4 cup minced red onion

1/4 cup minced yellow bell pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon fresh cracked black pepper

1. Cut the tomatoes into I-inch chunk . Puree them through the fine blade of a food mill to extract the
juice and pulp and leave the kins and seed behind. (A food processor or blender should not be used
for this step a tOO much air i incorporated into the puree.) Cover the puree tightly and refrigerate for

2 hour.

2. Just before serving, mince the red onion and yellow bell pepper and chop the fresh basil. Toss together

in a small bowl. tir the balsamic vinegar. olive oil, alt. and pepper into the chilled tomato puree.
Adjust the seasoning with more vinegar. olive oil. alt, and pepper if necessary.

3. Serve the soup in chilled soup bowl and place a heaping table poon of the relish in the center of each
bowl.

E o " ng /I

Jean-Louis Paltadin

INGREDIENTS:

1. poultry. I'd bring duck.
2. Foie gras. I'm addicted to foie gras, (See Jean-Louis Palladin's foie gras recipe on pages 351-352,)

3. Bananas. They give you strength.
4, Salt. I'm nuts about salt.

5. Spices and herbs. llike tlert/eine (verbena) so much that 1 named my daughter after it.

6. Olives. likewIse, 1 named my son Oliver.
7. Wine. When 1smell it, it's so fantastic ...
8. Grappa or Armagnac.

9. Dried cod.
10. Water. I'm addicted to water-l drink four or five liters of Evian a day!

TECH IQL f :

1. Grilling in a fireplace. I've done It all my bfe.
2. Braising in the oven. In the wimer...
3. Sauteeing. It gives food a nLce color-an:lI ltkt: ha\'m~ a cn"pi' top and a moist bottom,

Palladin aLo admit:, to lovmg pot all fe[(-"thmt:~ that arc cooked n I-o-n-g time." He'd also want to

hnng a Cuisinart and a HendeL "Ilovc maktn!! concoction~ of herh." when the raw juice tastes just of
the herh. You can u~e herh juice~ for, many thing ." :\ cookmt: techntque he could do without?

"Poachmg-l hate it when the fooJ dlime~rate into the \tquld." --- - ---------

350 A

- - - - - --~~
Braised Foie Gras with Rhubarb

by Jean-Louis Palladin

SERVES 4

Sau ce

1/2 cup sugar
twelve 1/2 ounces trimmed rhubarb stalks (seven 5 1/2-inch stalks)
I cur meat or \'egetable consomme (preferred) or meat or vegetable stock (liquid and clear broth)

1/4 cup unpeeled chopped carrots
2 tablespoons chopped celery

2 tablespoons of chopped leeks (mostly white part)
1 tablespoon chopped onion

2 tablespoons unpeeled chopped turnips
1 tablespoon chopped shallots

1 cup of fond de t'cau (veal stock-thick in consistency)*

About 4 to 6 tahlespoons bratsmg liquid

(re~er\'ed from bral,ing fmc gras)
1 whole fresh uncooked duck or goose foie gras (Grade A: ahout 1 pound)

fine sea 'air and (re,hly ground black pepper

Braised bed

1 cup unreeled chopped carrot-.

1/2 cup chopped celery
1/2 cup chopped leeks (mo,t1y white part)

1/2 cup chopped onions
1/2 cup ch ppeJ unpeeled chopped turnips

1/4 cup choppedhallots

1 very leafy thyme sprigs

3 medlum-si:e bay leaves
1 tea -poon fine -ea ~alt

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

2 table poon vegetable oil

1/2 cup meat or vegetable consomme (preferrred)
or meat or vegetable stock

1 cup of port wine

/wnnru.ed on ",.., ptItt)

~~~----------------------------~--~~~==~==~«t t.hiteI~ I made ft 1m a redUCtll nil the ,eet nf \'eaI. lnmal r a te. \''-""''etdhle • and ,,"ter. It IS thIck in conslStencv. cvmrar~
c >m~ Th fand rk ....au IS used to fmlSh the Sduce-

c usn e 351

Start the sate< e

PIa e the ugar m a hea' \,\. 4-,"'uart S.'3ucepL3n and cook over high heat until a nch caramel c(llm 3 to 4 min-

. '

ute,. tlr rmg aIm('~ t co n ~' tantl\.' with '1 wooden spoon; be careful not to let It burn. Add the rhuhtrb tlr-
<•
L _

nnc untl I ' L'1re well coated. then promptly add the consomme (1ncout pfo, nadbdoeut'l.'e2a0u)m, m.caurtreost,,.~ctelrlennryC"l'l{eV"e-.'cka-
and shallots'' cook until mixture reduces to about
p\t~ce~

onion.. turnip . a a' s mu h
Remo\'e fr o m heat and stram through chino is, using the bottom of sturdy ladle to force C
, Iona II '.
t hrough a,, p OS'Ible. Return to saucepan and cook over medium heat unt"ll reduced to 1/2 CLIp ahout 15 m'

In-

utes. anci , a'SIde . (Thl's rna" be done LIp to two days ahead; keep refngerated.)
1
~et

To fini h the dish

Heat oven to 350°. With a sharp thin-bladed knife. carefully trim away any green spots on the faie gras
cau_ed by contact with the gall bladder. eason both sides of the foit? gras \'ery generously with salt and pep-

per; et a'>lde.
In a medium ~i:ed bowl. combine all the mgredlent for this bral ing bed. Place the oil in a heavy

13 x 9-mch roasting pan and heat oyer hl\.!h heat on top of the ,rove (lbout 1 minute. Add the braising-

bed mixture and .aute until It tart to brown, about 1 mll1utc". tining frequently. Add the consomme

and continue cooking and ,nrnng ab ut ,mmute more, tht:n mOllnd tht:., vegetables in the center of the

pan and place the fOle,g-ras on t p_ Rem \e rom heat nd c. I pm \\lth aluminum foil. pierce foil 2 or 3

time With the tiP of a p mted kmfe te me me dp dunn' ) kmg. Bdke In the preheated oven for

mmute i then m mentaril~ n:m \ cpo fr m th )\ o. un )\ cr, <md turn fUle gras I ver with two turdy

rubber patuia to prc:\'t:nt marring th fi I m )th uri ',b 'lOg \ CI) .ireful to keep It mtaer. Cover

the pan and contmue bakmg until do, mmu c m rei do oot overcook, or the foie gras will

10 e It untque butterv texture. ("f, t t Jon , pi r \\!th I thm wood ( r metal kewer; then

pre very gent!) ar,lund kc\\t'r hi. I JUIC. run It hd pmk, not clear and not hloody, it' done.}

Tran -fer [ore gra to a plate and 0\ r I 1 \\ Ith f, II t ke p \\ Inn \\ hI! flO I hlOg the aUCe.
To fml h the au e, pia e th r tin p n \\ Ith he br 1m' "quid n i vc et,lhle~ in it over high

heat n t p f the t \e and bnn t II A d the nd return to a hod; then continue bot I109 until

hqUld redu ed to about _ 3 cup. u mlOut m reo Hmo' ace Ion lty. tram brai ing It4uld through

the chm I mt bo\\i I, u m the bot m turd 1 much through po Ible. lum all

fat fr m urfa e and add rem 10m hyUld th r ned rhuh rb u e Reheat auce and. if needed, let

It reduce t a thm auc COl ten n t t te \\ Ith It od pepper od erve Immediately

To cnc uceon h

t the gras cr \\ilse mt i-m h-thlck he n the dlag mal. IX n 2 to 3 table poon

ni ng pl te and arr n e a lice f fi gras n t p f uce.

Charlie Palmer

AUREOLE
IVeu )()rk, N~u York

I. Fi.sh,s'pe~'ifically tuna. It's \'ery universal. You can do a lot of different stuff with tuna.
1 Guinea fowl. AgalO, it's universal-and I'd get tired of eating chicken.

.'

3. potatoe.S. I ((1uld live without rice or pasta, but not without potatoes.
1. Artichokes. There'~ a lot you can do with th~m-se~ve them with a \'inalgrette, or braised in broth

\\Ith ream, l1r roasted. or mannated, And their flavor 5 great-they're almost sweet.
j Butter. From Egg Farm Dairy [the dairy in which Palmer i~ a partner], of course.
6. Spinach. It'~ wrsatile-I like it raw and cooked,

i. Chives. I'm era:y about chives,
S. Eggs. It Ilwlld be hard to li\'e without egg',

9. Apples. I could do without them, hut I'd have to ha\'e apple, for my two ~om., who love them.

10. Foie gras. hery tIIne AliCIa [Palmer\ wife) ha~ [Ole gras, It put her 10 a good mood,

Charhe Palmer commenb, "I could make ~alr from the ocean, 0 I wouldn't h,l\'e to bring it. The island
II'QulJ probably ha\'e eoconut~" I could get milk from them. And there'd probably be some source of

.;;ugar."

Ev C l. s r e 353

" In9

--- ----- -- Fran~ois Payard

RESTAURANT DANIEL
Neu' York. Neu York

l\IAKING DESSERTS ON A DESERT ISLAND

lr-;GREDIENTS:

1. Meyer lemons. They're ama:ing to eat whole, skin and everything!

Fran~ois_1. Dark chocolate. Chocolate that's aboutf6fl0-70 percent cocoa-not extra-bitter [over 70 percent] (S
Payard's Warm Chocolate Sou e recipe on page 355.) . ee

3. Coffee. I dnnk about ten to twelve cups a day.
4. Nuts. I Io\'e pistachio nuts and macadamia nuts, which we don't use in France.

S. Red wine. A Burgundy or Bordeaux-I've only started to lo\'e white wine.
6. Armagnac. 1v1)' grandfather u~ed to eat prune" soaked in Armagnac.

7. Cognac.
8. Black figs. I prefer rhem to green fig .

9. Strawberries.

ll. Raspberries. 1low t-erne! ---

-. - -- - - - - - - - - - - - _.. -- -- -.--...-. --_._- ._-_.-

• )I A t

Warm Chocolate Souffle

by Fran~ois Payard

10 IN[)IVI[)UAL SOUFFLES

10 ounces sweet butter

7 egg yolks

6 ounces granulated sugar

12 ounces extra bitter chocolate. cut in small pieces
7 egg whites

juice of 1/2 lemon

1 ounce granulated sugar
ten individual souffle cups. prebuttered and dusted with sugar

LIn asmall pot over medium heat. melt butter and keep warm on the side. In a bowl. whip firmly the egg
yolks and the 6 ounces of sugar until it become whiter and foamier {about 6 minutes}. Pour hot butter
over the chocolate. mix well with a whip until chocolate is melted and then blend with the yolles and
sugar mix.

2. Whip 7egg whites with the lemon juice. When they become tiff. add 1 ounce of sugar. Whip for a few

more minutes and then incorporate the chocolate and yolk mixture into the whipped egg whites. Gently
fold the two together with a spatula to keep the preparation light and foamy. Transfer the mix into the
cups.
3. Preheat the oven to 3500 • Place the cup in a pan of water and cook for 5 to 6 minutes. Remove and
unmold onto the serving plate. The souffle can be served with whipped cream or ice cream on the side.

., •

- - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - -
Mark Peel
CAMPANILE
Los Angeles , California

INGREDIENTS:

1. Salt.
2. Bread. [After first saying, "Definitely salt and pepper-you need some seasoning," Mark later gave up

pepper in order to bring bread.]

3. Greens. Everything from spinach to arugula ro collard greens-I love their flavor, their bitterness, the

sharpness you get from their acid. In a diet, you need their vitamms and fiber.

4. Olive oil.

5. Potatoes.
6. Lemons. I'd take lemons over balsamic vinegar. Lemon is such a ba,ic flavor, and is so versatile; you

can use it on a salad, on a piece of chicken, on fi h.

7. Chicken. I 100'e ic \'er~atlhty. An I 1(\ gT<:dt roa~ted \\ lth a cn~pv ~kin! (See Mark Peel's recipe for
Hert-ed Baby Chicken nn page' 357-35 .)

8. Thyme. I love thyme. It\ not an e l)(eTlC herb. It'- ul\Iver ,I. It cern to enhance the flavor of just
about everythmg-any cihh, exc pt f. r de ert: fl h, chicken, me It, p,l~td~, pl)!entas.

9. Onions. [Again, },1ark eltmm Ited III n'm I h,)IC of cho l Idte In order to bring onions.) You haw
to have oni,ms!

10. Red wine.

"Remember, you're on a de ert 1 land, 0 ~ou're !:Otng to have ,lit ,w,lilahle because it's m [he sea,"

~1ark commenL, "And pre umably 'ou can get fl h."

T~( H IQL Eo :

I. Grilling.
n

2. Roasting: I like [he navor of gullmg and roa,tmg. There are ,omt: thm!?' that It:nJ thern,el " co

gnllmg, ltke gnlled wh'lle fi~h ••mci other that lend [hem eke to ru,btlnt!, like roasteJ ChlLken.

3. Steaming. It\ a gentler methou of cookll1g thelt', rerfe t fur tt h, Vl:l!etahle" pot.HOC'.

- - ----~

356 A

- - - -- -~- -~----- -~-

Hcrbcd Baby Chicken (Poussin) with Lemon~Thyme Butter

by Mark Peel

SER V ES 4

, -i came about backwards, I had a wonderful, crisp, buttery potato galette and wanted a tender and

Thl,) T'eIl pe, k d' -h to complement It. A poussm (a slx-week-old chicken) has the tender texture that 1
chIC IS ' ,
en _
t13\l1r!U 'd' h but it isn't all that full-flavored, so a qUICk splash of lemon thyme butter IS tossed on to
i IT thiS IS "ent. w"ith practi'ce, .It
~\\d;ldn t inten e acC To butterfly the chickens, the backbone must removed, but a little
l

an

.. dfficult procedure.
"n t a I

Herbed Baby Chicken

4 baby chicken, about 1 pound each

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs (parsley and thyme)

kosher salt

fre hly ground black pepper

Lemon Th)1ne Butter
6 table pt)()n (3 ounce ) butter
2 large garlic clove, peeled and chopped (2 table poons)
ze t of 1 medium lemon, fmely chopped
2 table poon fre h lemon thyme leave

ko her -alt
fre hly ground black pepper
2 table poon fre h lemon juice

(conrmwd on ""Xl poetl

c•

P... anutd m t \ lOU_' p.1g~

'fe remove the backbones and ribs from the chickens. Place each h'
1. U,_m,g a larg- e, \'ery sh ar.p knbloar,d' in ert the tip of the km.fe .Into the'cav ity as far as It will go Lc tcken
bre.as-t side up on a IcI uIttmgth back, bone and cut through the n.bs on b.oth sides of the backbon' e. Rtne the
knife blade up para e to e . . ' eJmove
. dh b kb s of all the chickens. Spread each ducken out on the cutting board a
and dlscar t e· ac oneth the heel of yotlr hand, unti.l the breastbone cracks, and the chick'enn 'p1r1e1s',
down on eacI1 m t·ukrn WoI ver and using your fm. gers, pull out and di.scard the n,bs. WI Ie

flat. Turn each ch IC en ,

. . g bO\id marinate the chickens, refrigerated, with the olive oil and the chopped he b f
2. I2ntoa I3arhgoeumrsl.xRme,move ' . r S Or
the chickens from the refrigerator about 15 minutes before cooking. Just prior to

cooking, season the chickens lightly With kosher salt and black pepper.

3. Start a fire m the grill and allow it to burn to medium-high temperature.

4. Grill the chickens skin-side down until the .kin is browned and cnspy, almost charred, about 6 to 8 min-
utes. Turn the chickens and place them on a parr of the grill that gives off only a moderate amount of
heat, so as not to burn them. Continue to grill the chickem lIntil they are firm to the touch all the way
through, about 15 to 20 minute longer. \X'hen the thH!h i rierced and the juices run clear, the chicken

is done.

5. In a casHron skillet melt the hutter O\'cr medium heat. \X'hen the hutter beginS to sizzle and foam, Just
before it browns, tir in the garltc and lemon :e t, rem ve the p n tmm the heat, add the lemon thyme,

and Wlr! bnefly. Correct the ed omg t te \\ Ith k her ,h, blcl k perper, and up to 2 tablespoons

of fresh lemon juice.

6. To serve, put one chicken, km Id up, 0 h plat nd pi h cl little lemon thyme hutter over the

chicken, and ~er\'e ImmeJldt l~ \\ Ith p t lien.

A

------

Michael Romano

UNION SQUARE CAFE
New York . New York

INGREDIENTS:

1. Olive oil. It'; what greases good cooking. You can take a can of mediocre soup, drizzle it with olive oil,
and it becomes a wonderful thing.

2. Bread. I have a hard time eating without bread near me-it's so basic.

3. Tomatoes. Only in the summer months.

4. Eggplant. It's close to home for me, and it's like meat in terms of what you can do with it.

5. Bitter greens---chard, dandelion, kale, mustard. I eat them daily. They're like a tonic-they make me

feel so good.

6. Wine. Both my grandfathers made their own wine, so we grew up with it as a part of our life. It's a

miraculous thing-it's incredible what can be made from grapes!

7. Lentils. There are so many different ones.

8. Salt-kosher or sea salt. Table salt has a sharp, stingmg, acrid taste.

9. Pepper. I love what It does for food, the warmth It hrint.:~.

10. Arborio rice. (Romano first cho~e basm;m rice. then SWitched when he realized he couldn't make a

menu with the other mgredlent") Ba~ic to any cui;me IS some sort of starch and protein. And I'd
choose rice over potaroe;. (See Michael Romano\ reClpe for RLo[to d'Oro nn pages 360-361.)

Romann said, "I would give up all manner of meats and fi~h b:fore I'd give up vegetables." And he

appeared heart-hroken when he realt:ed he'd omlttcJ garlic from his list. He also wished aloud to have
taken herbs like hastl, chervtl, parsle " and rarra!,!on, anel 'pices like black cumin, cardamom, and nut·
meg,

TEC.H lQL E :

L Sauteeing. It's the quicke;t wa\ to clll11hne ingreJienr'o, heat them throul!h, and get them nn a plate

qUICkly wlthnut altering them ~oo much.

2. Deep.fat frying. It h,b a homey kinel of feeling, yet done currecrly. it em be exqui,ire {,)r things like

calamari . potatoe" t•ntter~.

1._tlrais'mg. I' homey. It harken back to d tnne when pe\)ple cooked WIth le~, expenSI\'e rYl'e~ f meat.

t 0

Ev n g c u e 35

Risotto d'Oro

by Michael Romano

SERVE~ 4-6

This golden-colored risotto looks convincingly like risotto alia Milanese, the saffron-infused Lombarl1), C\.,h.-

IC. But appearance is where the similarity ends. Substituting fresh carrot and celery juices for the standard
chicken stock adds a gentle sweetness to this summery, alh'egetable risotto. A vegetable juicer makes thi
recipe convenient to prepare, but fresh vegetable juices are widely available in health food store . Chnose
a white wme with lots of fruit to stand up to the sweetness of the carrot and celery Juices. Rlnt e Chardllnnavs

from Australia and California \vill do the trick.

3 cups carrot jUice

3 cur~ celery JUICe

1/4 cup ohw Oil

1 3/4 LU arb rl nce

1/_ [e~asJ:)()()n mm ed rllC

1/2 cup \\ hlte \\ me

1/_ cup peeled. pllt len thw I .' n I carrot

1/2 cup 1-10 h riC e gre n h n

1/2 ur rltt len th\\1 e and !tced zucchml

1/2 cup I/Z-mch piece ,1 P ra u • l )U 'h end dl carded

-------------~-~~~

1/2 cup liced red bell pepper
1/2 cup fresh shelled peas

1/3 cup liced scallions
4 tablespoons butter

3/4 cup finely grated Pannigiano-Reggiano

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/8 teaspoon fre hly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

l.ln asaucepan. combine the carrot and celery juices and bring to a immer.
2. In a 3.quart skillet heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the rice and garlic and stir together until

the nee IS coated with the oil. Add the white wine and bring to a boil, tirring constantly until the W6le
is absorbed by the rice. Add the carrots and the green beans to rice.

3. Ladle 1/2 cup ci the hot juice mixture into the saucepan and tir until it is absorbed. Continue wi·.

rest c:i me juace, addmg more liquid. The constant tirring allows the rice to release its starch into the

COIl.... liquid, resulting m the characterIStIC nsono creammess. When 3/4 of the juice has been wed,
abwt 15 to 20 mmutes. stir in the retnamlng vegetables. Contmue ladling and tiffing in the remainiaI
JUICC, about 10 additional mmutes. The grains of nee hould be al dmte.
4. Swirl m the butter, 3/4 of the Pailillgtano, and season with the salt and pepper. Serve the ruotto ....""
k1ed with panIey and the retnamlng PanmguU\o.

Anne Ro...en:\\cig

ARCADIA ,mel THE LOBSTER CLUI'>
.\i~u \ink. Neu York

I C;RlIllE T":

1 Chocolate-covered pretzels. It', the perfect food-yin and yang, sweet and salty, crunchy and
creamy-all at once.

2 Milk. It's the perfect drink with the perfect food.
3. Butter. \X'hy? I'm the butter queen of New York. It's an essential thing for good cooking.

4. Kasha. From my rootS-It'S a homey, ethnic thmg.
). Onions. Like hutter, It's a basic, es~entlal ingredient-and there are Itlt~ of ways to eat them. You can

lise them (or f1an)r, or as a vegetable.
6. Lobster. It's my favorite protein nght n \\'.

7. Corn. I Just had ~ome roOl'ted corn •.H a 'treet ('Hr, ,lOd It \\'a~ gre,H~
Pasta. Eventually you'll get ttred (f eve!) hing e1,e, anJ ,all c, n h,we It With jw,t butter.

9. Tomatoes. I'll needome vegetahle , and the e r~ health} ,lOti Dood.

10. Steak. h\ my . econd-i. \orne protem.

Ro en:weig aid ,he\ neak .11 n It nJ perper, too--"llldtlen 111 1l1} OOion !"

1 EUI IQl f :

L Sauteeing. It' the mo~t fun, and} u In u (: a I [of flO c. It'- ver~ Inllliecir,ltc.

2. Roasting. It' a techOlque that bnng lit fla\OT .
3. Grilling. It' e \. and It' fun

--- Chris Schlesinger

THE EAST COAST GRILL
Cambridge. Mas.sachusetts

INGREDIENTS:

1. Salt. You can't make food taste good without salt.

2. pepper. I love pepper-salt, pepper, and ginger make things taste good.

J. Lime juice.

4. Hot sauce. I like it to spice up food-I'm not really impressed with subtlety in food. I'd take EI

Yucateco (hot sauce].

5. Baron. I could make a salad with the bacon fat and lime juice-and some tomatoes.
6. Gnens. I like leafy greens, like baby collards and kale. I use it as lettuce as well as in cooking.
7. Ginger. It's a nice, fresh spice.

8. Oysters. It's my favorite type of seafood. I like the East Coast variety, which are salty and briny, as
opposed to West Coast oysters, which are more ubtle.

9. Tomatoes. I like really nice, fresh tomatoes. I'd make a salad to go with the oysters.
10. Sweet potatoes. They're versatile and tasty, and you need a tarch to balance dinner.

Schlesinger also commented that if he caught, for example, a beautiful striped bass out of the ocean,
"It's good to just cook that with salt and pepper and put a little bit of lime on it. A lot of food is good
just as food; we're not obligated to do a lot to it. And if I had fish, I'd wish I had some mangoes, which
are my favonte &uit, to go with it."

TECH IQUE :

1. GriD; ........ 15k • 1 love it. To me, grilling means cooking. I love the connection to live fire.

Esco&ier def4w::a1ril1ina • "the remote starting point of our art."

2. %t+fa 1"~-__ fried fcoJi _____apecially
or the crispy L '_ _ J .
<.:JUI1I;IIUKaD UI
tt.

a..3. in hiapi ita b -_- .abnu..lLU.l.mpc-'ulent w.Lnen he rea1u'-c-.u.l he hadn't L-...l.t beer, and offered to trade

u........

..... 1IcJ. . .·Any kind of cold herr but paddably Samuel Adams."



Chili-Ginger ,,IUce

YIELD: 1 CLP

1/2 cup red wine vinegar

juice of 3 limes

1 tablespoon fresh hot pepper (your choice), finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, minced

2 tomatoes, finely chopped

Cook all ingredients O\'er low flame for 5 minutes, Let cool.

Wilted Greens with moked Tomato, Bacon Bit., clOd Lime Dressing
1/2 cup bacon bib (fry 'em up)

Juice of 2 lim mixed with n little leftover bacon fat

alt and pepper to t, te

1 head wa hed chicory
1 head wa hed kale

6 plum tomato , moked over low fire on grill and cooled

H,eat bacon fat with lime juice, salt, and pepper. TO_5 hot dre 109 over washed greens and tosS greens until
'h
slightly wilted, erve smoked tomatoe and bacon bit-.
Wit

A h-Roasted \\ eet Potatoe

4 5wet!t potatoes, washed and wrapped in foil
Place POtatoe

In coals and cook until they are oft. Cut up large or mash to eat.

---~--------~ ----=- - "-- --

f• ' " " n g t1 Lv 5 " 365

Jimm'l chmidt

THE RATTLESNAKE CLUB
DetrOIt. Michigan

INGREnJE. TS:

1. Chile seeds. Chiles are really adaptive; you can use them for coloration, heat, spiciness. You can coo-
sume them fresh or dried. With the peppers, you wouldn't need as much salt in the food-and 1 hate
bland food.

I Grape seeds. You've got to have wine. While you'd have to find a variety that would do well in that cli-
mate, llove pinot noir. You can make white or red from pmot noir pretty effectively. And at the second
dosage, you could ferment It and ha\'e Champagne!

3. \\~eat. Obviously, you'd need wheat for breadmaking, and pasta. 1 think that's a very important staple.

4. Com. 1l00'e com-you ha\'e to love com if you grow up m Illinoi. Com' a good storage food; it grows
really qUickly, and it's very high Yield. And you can roast it, boil it, bake it-you can do a hundred dif-
ferent things to it.

J. Tomatoe . They're very adaptable-you can m ke a alice l)ut of them, you can eat them raw, you can
dry them and put them into .alad- and auce- They've £ t \.;0 d, high <Kid.

6. Potatoes. Thev're a great staple. You n I11cch them, you can u l: potato rarch for thickening, you can
make gratm~, ()f fry them- au can d ) ton of Ifferent thma to them.

7. Citrus- limes. For \,iramin C. I like them ill, but 1\.1 probabl~ take Illne . I thmk they're the most adap-
tive i0r hemg blended with other thmg . I Itk bmes better tho n lerm m, .lOd I think they gll better with

the chtle', They add d char eten-tlc th t I be}ond cmu It elf. Or.mge. are not that concentrated,
\\ hlCh b why I pa~,ed over th m.
- - - - .......

; + ...... it • a salad or as a vegetable, or for fillings in ravioli, or for .... AaIlJI:W..

!lP »S. k't p 10m cl iron. And it grows very quickly.

• b r.e .",10 have prlic. Besides .that, it's good for you. It's a great flavor enhancer Oft . , . .
9. G __ It ..., very arable. And It protects you from vampires.'

~~-

.'0Il'.... In• .FOCI ovaall herb. I wouldn't say that it's my favorite-Ilike cilantro, llik.e thyme . . lieII
10• ...,.liaIfe (love them all. But you can tum basil into a sauce, whereas you can't

!he . . . . . . . .

"WhIP- the ' , Ad?" Schmidt asked. "You could get salt from the water, so that rakes C8Ie eX _ AIIII
'*D ... OC I'''' Since I grew up 01\ a farm, I'm covering all my blm h l _ __
do"'"you CDII&t
......... 1 And I love coriander, even though I don't have it 01\ my list."

TECH IQUE :

I. .... cleYelqaEnt: You get a lot cl flavor off the wood on what you'1e

k'I . . . . . . . . . . . . .

In_ And ~lleIDperabR ml _ clmIn and hee '

1do lib the hich:temperature effcca cl_iDg ml"......

cI• ....,



-----.--- ' -~ .--..--- - --~----

Lind ey here

CHEZ PANISSE

Berke/c)'. Cahfrmua

INGREDIENTS:

1 Sheep. For (hee~e and meat.
, Wheat. It'> a ~taple of one's diet-I could never live without hread or cereal.

-'

3. Corn. \'m an Italian. and I like my polenta.

1I &. 5. Apple tree and pear tree. I love them hoth. And they're comtantlv usable,. I cou Id eat the frU.lt
1

ire'h. or cooked. or even make liqueur from them.

6. Grapes. To ha\'e wine.
i A pig. I love pork.
S. Salad greens. A \·ariety. or any kmd .

9. Chickens. I love egg .

10. An orange or tangerine tree. It' a tla\'or I really lm'e a lot.

When reminded that .he could brmg al ng ea mno , Shere re ponded, "I don't need ~eas()l1ings. If
you have omethmg that'.; wonderful, you don't need to da a lot to It."

TE H IQLE :

1. Baking. How could you have brc. d If you couldn't bake, not to mention the oc(a.,ional aprIe tart. fruit

ens!" and cake?

1-. tovetop pot-cooking. I'd want to be dble to make cu.-tard and ~oup- and stocks.

-3. Cook'mg over fire coal. F r vanet . and flavar-and h ere are ti.me (hat It'~ JU"'( tOO hot to cook inside!

t

369

v n9 8 Cu s ,,6

E"0

L dia Shire

BIBA and PIGNOLI
Boston. Massachusetts

I ' (,REUlE! T":

1. Garlic. Ilo\'e garlic. It's my fa\'orite thing in the world. (See Lydia Shire's recipe for Crab Fldeo with

Broken Garltc O il on pages 371-372, which she characterizes as "major garlic!")

2. Olive oil. Garlic and olive o il go h and in hand.
3. alt. I cannot eat food Without -alt-it has :ero flavor. Salt might actually be my number one choice.

4. Bacon. I IO\'e good bacon . I love fat.
5. pasta. paghetti gc'es great with o!i\'e o il and garhc-it's my comfort food.
6. Mavonnai e. I'm a closet mayonna i e eater. I can eat mayonnabe sandwiches.

i. pinach. I crave pinach.

~ Broccoli rabe. I crave !,!reen - I lo ve their bmeme
9. Lemon. I u e lemon.. hke alt- flav r enh ncer.

h .. Beef. To have a creat tea , With t-n thmOel e qUite r' ~.oC It ~ rOle.

If gl\ en mmel u e.

Tl: H 10\..1: :

1. aut eing. It' a gr at, qUic c()()km th t 1Ote~ IfIe the fla\'or on the seared ide.

2 Frving. \x'hat' bert r th n I m m the ummer?

3. Roa ting. Th meH a hi ken r.UdC~l1O_ 10 ur h use I e f the top mells m the world.

'lute htr he the char \ £la\ r Imparted by gnllmg, he admit, "I'm not much of

te mm per n."



t Break 1 pound Goy.l fideos into approximately 1- to 2-inch pieces. Toss in 1/4 cup olive oil and bake 11\

35 0 oven until lightly golden. This should take 5 to 8 minutes. Be careful not to let the noodle get too
brown.

4. Boil fideo in crab stock until al dente. Drain in colander. Set over bowl. Reduce 4 cups of liquid to 1cup.
Re erve.

5. Rub a hallow ca serole dish with a cut clove of garlic and butter lightly. Arrange the cooked noodles

tossed with the picked-over crab meat to a depth of 1 inch. You may need two casseroles. It is ill\portant
that the noodle only be 1 inch high.

6. Drizzle the noodle with the reserved cup of tock and bake in a 4000 oven until the top is crispy and the
rock absorbed.

7. The beauty of thi di h is the contrast of the crisp noodles on top, and the soft and somewhat dty under·

neath.

. Pass the broken garlic oil separately, as your guests will want different amounts.

1 cup Bn*m Garlic Oil
1
1 ancho chale
c priac, peeled

tra VlfIUl olave oal
1t

black pepper

• pan for S minuta till

Rea.101. sL:JWlv for 45 manures-

a._ 0".,...&ld. Slowly drizzle into the
c1q1Pinl wkh • knife. Add

Nancy Siherton

CAMPANILE
Loss Angeles. CalifornIa

L (;RE.PH T~:

1 Salt.

1 Pepper. I real'" think that, to make something good, you don't need anything more than a good .mgre-
I

-' jlent and salt and pepper.

3. Arugula.
4. potatoes.

j. Olive oil.
6. Bread. [Silverton gave up her original choice of balsamic vinegar in order to bring bread.]

7. Parmesan cheese. Everything about a baked potato, olive oil. Parmesan, and arugula with salt and pep-
per is so satisfying that I always say I could eat thi· every day for the rest of my life.

8. Dried pasta. I love dried pata. I love the texture, the toothines . I love fresh ravioli, but too many

tlme fresh pasta is gummy. It' not alway a benefit ro make it fre h.

9. Coffee. I have to have coffee. (..,ee! ancy ~ilverton' recipe for Coffee Ice Cream on page 374.)

10. Red wine. I need red wme.

St!verton asked, "b It a HawaiIan i land? Do I ha\'c ro bnng .ugar, or I there sugar cane there?"

Tf H IQl f :
l. Sauteeing. It's very quick and it' very Imple-and the re ults can be delicious.
2, Boiling. I love pasta-and coffee.
3. Braising. I love the cuts of meat that lend them -elves ro being brai ed, and the results.

"I~IvceanWeitahsoI'luYt I'Ive .h out deep frying. Gril ling . O.lce, butI don't ha'\ e to ha'\e it. And I could easi.ly
obviou rea son, baking because of what I do--but not necessanly
Wit IS

SWeet. For I love

ecau e of what I eat."

--- - - - -.~--.----

373

E (. J '

Coffee Ice Cream

by Nancy Silverton

YIELDS 1 QUART

A coffee flavor at the end of a meal can be doubly pleasing; it can satisfy the desire for both coffee and
dessert. Our coffee ice cream has an intense coffee flavor, much more so than traditional coffee ice cream
because we use no eggs and less cream. It may not be quite as smooth, but I find it more refreshing.

Crush the coffee beans with a rolling pin or with the back of a pan. Do not use a grinder or food
processor because the resulting grind is too small and it causes the ice cream to take on an unpleasant
gray color. I find that decaffeinated beans produce a smoother ice cream than regular coffee beans.

41/2 cups whole (4%) milk
1 1/2 cups heavy cream

1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 1/2 table poons com syrup

1/2 cup decaffeinated coffee bean~, e.. pres,o roa"t, crushed
1 1/2 tea poem, coffee extract or instant e'pres,ll

1. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, brmt:! the mIlk, ere. m. !;ranulated ~ugar, com syru[" and cof-

fee beans to a bod. Bod gently. ttrrint:! cantm u Iy u lOt:! .1 mbber ·p.Hula. reducmg until the mixture
ha_ thickened very ,lightly, about _ to 2~ ITltnUtl: \\ Ith ufflclent bo Iy to provide an envelopmg nch-

neo;'i, as 0['1'0 ed to a water~ mdkme ,In )ur m uth.
2. Remove the ~aucer<l!1 from the heat, dJ the c ttce extr trIO t. nr (1re"o, and mix just to cnmhme

U-ing a fine me h (,l1nlt: 'teel tramer, trclln the mIxture Into a 1.lrge mlxmg howl and .dlm\' w coni
at lea t 15 mtOure , then refn...er te or t lea t; mmute. 1)1 ard the cotfee beam.
3. Remove the mixture (rom the re rt(!e tor. If km h ormed on (he CTC<lITl, ,imply tJr it bclck lI1to the

mixture. Pour the cooled cream mixture lOt the contamcr of n I e cream freezer. Fn:eze ( cor:lm J to

the manu(Clcturer', 10 tru tiM . Re rVe {he I e cream 10 thc Ice cre.tm to hll1c Lont.lln r until nee J-

ed.

4 en e the Ice crcam \\ Ithm 1 r 2 h ur ( ree:m.... 1- per nail made Ice cream doe not keep \ ell to

the freezer-It become ( hard nJ r. m .

4

Joachim pliehal

PATINA
Los A~les, Ca/iforrua

I GREDIE TS:

1

choa,..re IltJCe.

aood for me. I like to eat them just seared, with salt and pepper

WIlleD makmg a coulis. It's a nice taste.
• , 1'_ wilb -Bt pepper, olive oil, balsamic vinegar and onion.

EI thear natural flavor.

_ _d. It

wbIII ~ aIllbOliJt.

~~~t ..... _ndIlolDI-diaco)lJ'q a bis pIeCe d meat or a suckling PII

-- -- -- ---

Potato and Forest Mushroom Lasagna vith Nage Butter auce

by Joachim Splichal

I thmk this dish can challenge any lasagna made from conventional pasta, and the technique of making
· II ite easily mastered once you have done It two or three times. The recIpe

tenderr por tatods'heets 15trea y fqumushrooms but in a pinch you could use 3/4 pound of one kind of mush
rcoaoIIms ,loarltlhoouurghl,lllioefrecnotursyepetshea flavor will no' t be as rich. You could cook the potato layer earlier in the day-

and leave them, covered with the parchment paper, until just before assemblmg the dIsh.

SERV ES 4

Potatoes

1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
salt and freshly ground white pepper
2 large Idaho potatoes, peeled and trimmed into approximately 3-inch by 2-inch blocks
(reserve the trimmings in a bowl of cold water ro make mashed potatoes, if desired)

Preheat the oven to 350°. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper and brush them with some of the
melted butter. Sprinkle a little salt and pepper onto the paper. With a mandoline or a sharp knife, cut the
potato blocks carefully crosswise into 1/ -inch-thick rectangles (each potaro should yield 9 to 10 slices) and

arrange them in a single layer on the baking heet'" Brush the ,lice~ well With the butter and sprinkle with

a little more salt and pepper. Co\'er with another heet of parchment paper and bake for 12 to 15 minutes
or until fork-tender. Set aside, on the hakiof.: hee~.

Mu hrooms

1/4 cup unsalted butter

1 1/4 cups (3 ounce) thinly ~ltced white mushroom, stems removed

1 1/4 cup (3 ounce:) thinly ltced ,hlltake mu,hroom" ,tems removed

1 1/4 cup (3 ounce,) thinly heed oy~ter mu~hrooffi'~, tems removed
1 1/4 cups (3 ounce» thinly heed chanterelle or porcini mushroom~, If available

1 large ,hallot, finely chopped

1 tahlepoon finely chopped chl\'e:>

air and fre hi)' ground white repper

A



--- Jeremiah Tower

STARS and J.T.'s
San Frannsco. Cahfomia

INC,REDIE . T<;:

1. Potatoes. They're so flexible-sugared, with milk, 1 could even make a dessert of them. And I could

make vodka.
2. Turbot. It's my favorite fish, and makes a fabulous stock. It's very, very delicate with a very pure taste.

3. A cow, pregnant with a male calf. For milk and beef.

4. Sugar. [ could use it to cure pork and to make rum.
5. Olives. 1 could make olive oil from them and use them for flavoring. I love them-and they're very

nutritious.
6. Seed packet: a Burpee "Grand Slam" cornucopia of seeds. \Vith seeds for thyme, beans, citrus, tar-

ragon, parsley, lettuces, chile pepper~, and. orne kind of grain (hke buckwheat).

7. Lamb. It's the meat I can eat the mo t and not get tired of. PiLL I'd have wool and lanolin.

8. Mangoes.

9. Grapes. I could make wine, anJ Jry them [0 m ke ral,lru. And I could make vmegar.

10. Pork. I couldn't live without a pi\!. I ad re ham and bacon < nJ thing~. ( ee Jeremiah Tower's reClp~
for Roast Pork Lom on page " 379-3 l.)

Tower commented that he coulJ m k III wn lr.

TH. H \(Jl E :

1. Grilling. Over hvc fuel-then I could 1 0 cook b) pi -roa tin '.

2. Boiling/poaching.
3. Braising. In a pot in a fire.

78 A

Roa t Pork Loin Stuffed with Ham and Rosemary

hy Jeremiah Tower

h~~edfrom Jane Gwanygstoong\ueaxrcaenltleeentmhOlo~.otk on charcuterie that if you brine pork fur a day hefore cookmg
sure and very flavorful pork, as long as you do not overcook Lt.
[learn 'e a

I[ yt)U that pork can be very slightly heige-pink and still he safe in terms of trichinosis, the trichinae
Re.me0b1iled at .a meat internal temperature of 137 degrees. This dish could be served with a warm veg'etable
being d e pers, black-eyed peas, or red cabbage salad.
r p
)[ell', roaste

ERVES 5

3 pounds center-cut pork loin

1/4 cup salt

1/4 cup ~ugar

2 liuart· water

2 bay leave

I table poan all pice berries

1 tabl poon dried thyme

2 clove gariJc, left whole

2 large hallot , finely chopped
, tahle p n oltve OIl

1/2 pound country ham or prosciutt ,fmely chopped

2 tabl poon fr h ro em.try leaves, finely chopped

ait and fre hly round pepper

1 cup chicken tock
2 table poon D1)On- tyle mu tard

4 table poon butter

1. Trim the loin so that there i only 1/4-inch fat on top. Mix the alt, ugar, water, bay leave, all ~ice'l and

thYme'In a pan and heat until the alt and ugar are dl. J 1ved j letIcoPo. ut the loin in a pan JU t arg6e

~ough to hold it and the liquid and pour the brine over the pork. Let marinate overnight or at lea t

Ur In the refrigerator. ~I(conanud "" ntxt

379



Norman Van Aken

NORMAN'S

Coral Gables. Florida

I NG REDI EN T S:

1 ..............m.. Plantains were theIIfirst fruit I had in Key West that caused me to marve1at "this cUIS.ine and
. to (eel trUSt that there were a -new avenues for me to experience.

Z. MIl s er ~th~elY're. the right kind, and at their juiciest, they're the most perfect fruit I've ever

~ an elr USClousness.

J. BlIck. P....

•. CCIC IlL All d the ~dients I'm mentioning are part of such a welcomeness I felt when I first got

here- It made my cookmg accelerate and become distinguished from cooking from anywhere else in

AJDerica.
5. SnIt cod, or lNIcafoo. It's such a part of the Caribbean tradition, probably because it's the absolute

oppoaite ri the fresh fOO it would be so impossible to choose among.

6. O· ••

7. a 'rs I'd want the pungency and bite that ginger and chiles would provide. And there's such a broad

. . .ri &a,a. in c:hilea. One ci the most common chiles that we would use here [at Norman's] would
be ScM b bonnets or habet\ero&, which are definitely distinct from jalapenos or serranos, in that the
&aIiry and incredible aroma they have is so much different from the other chiles. Ginger and chiles
wM:tclemer. well as raonate with each other in a very clear way. The flavors bounce quickly back
... iJnb bee.! m each other. They're sort of standing on the side like a little chorus that provides a

iJiws'tr ~ to "rock the boat" or the dish.

8. One ci the key thangs that creates the opportunity for a sauce or a dish to work is the

to provide relief from the meaty richness of the dominant protein or the BOftening

IIIiiCh. 1be benefit ci citruS on the island is that I could also drink. it. I'd have a hard

• tJ.lIIIlic YiN pro
est, like my son was, are called conches· When I first got here, I ask~,
aDLU_l_J_l.U.Li.l._ll_~_' . used . To this dav" on.e d the
becaule ci I ·--e·--'-ina
It got an
CVIRY...
my menu is a conch chowder. It's become emblematic d my cookinI· (See

' -_elDeb Conch Q,owder on pages 383-385.)

u:ehit favorite animal d all. I gueII that' because you can 10 many
and ribI and ......Ir tendmotn-
. . . . . .twJe between L~..._._
.,..,....



cracked..Hacked Conch Chowder with Saffron, CI'-)COnut, and 0 ranges

by Norman Van Aken

YIELD 10 8·0UNCE PORTION~

For the shellfish broth/cream and garnish
1/4 cup olive oil

1 Scotch bonnet, stem and seeds discarded, minced
6 shallots, peeled and sliced thinly

4 clove of garlic, peeled and sliced thinly
12 mall clam , scrubbed

12 mussels, scrubbed and de-bearded
1 star anise

1 table poon roughly cracked black pepper
3 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1 scant table poon affron
1 quart heavy cream
1 cup coconut milk

1. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed aucepan over medium-high heat. Add the Scotch bon-

net, ballots, and garlic. Stir. Let vegetable flavor the oil (about 1 minute). Then add the clams, mus-

sel , star anise, and black pepper. tiro Then add the orange juice and cover the pot. Remove the clams

and mussels as they open to a colander set over a bowl to catch the liquid. (They start opening after

about 3 minutes; just take them out a they open and cover the pot again and keep checking for more

open ones.)

2. A~l~lomwintuhteeso: rNanogwe and shellfish juice to reduce, uncovered, until about 1 ~cou.pbo0ifl.. lIsq"~Uidririnrgemocacm.assi,oanbaloluy.t
add the saffron, heavy cream, and coconut milk. Allow

hac careful, cream can boil over in a plit second.) Reduce the cream until It will JU t barely coat the

:;:n0c kofaspoon (about 15 to 20 minutes ).Tum off and strain. Discard the solids and reserve the flavored
MeanWhile, take the cooled mussels and clams out of their hell, reserve the meat, and tOSS the

_ -U-a. ------------------------~(conU-nutd-on n-txt"-.".)

(I /I C •

-----

For the \peg t"hle 5 Irni h
6 new potatoes, scrubbed and diced medium

1/2 cup of pure olive oil
2 ounces smoked slab bacon, rind removed, about 1/2 cup

4 cloves garlic, sliced thinly
1 poblano chile, stem and seeds discarded, minced

1/2 red onion, peeled and diced medium
2 large carrots, peeled and diced medium
1/2 bulb fennel, cored and diced medium
2 celery stalks, cleaned and diced medium
1 red bell pepper, stem and seeds di carded, diced medium

1 ear com, kernels cut off the cob
1/4 cup roughly chopped cilantro leaves

2 bay leave , broken
air and repper to ta~te

1. Put potatoes to a small saucepot of It!!htl~ alted water. Bnn~ to a boil and tum down heat; simmer till -
Just underdone (this only take~ a few minute", inee [he potaroe are <0 small).

2. In a large heavy soup pot, cook the bacon With [he ohve 011 over medium-high heat until bacon is half-

way cooked. Add the garlic and chile and <tir bndly. Add the re t of the vegetables except the poratoesi
stir to coat, add salt and pepper; Cilantro, and bay leaf. Cook until firm, smnng occasionally (ahout 8
mmutes). Add potatoes, saffron cream, clams, and mussel,.

384
A

;/4 p' HIIllI cl '~lIled, pounded (linch

~,lIr ,lilt! Pl'I'lwr, til r,,"ll'

1/4 LlIl' fllllli

2 egg~ Iwarl'11 with 4 te:"p()on:, of half,and,half
1 1/2 (111'" panko crtllnh..

I. S,'N,ll till' l,lIll h \l'1t h ,II r :111,1 l'lJ'per, Nil\\' dre~lge the (on( h pil'\.:l-' in the nom, then thl' l' 'g. , :md
thl'lll11 till' p.1tl k" , Pl,ll"e them ,111 :t I.uge (,Life, 'Iou (an layer Ihem t! you 'l'p~lrate the hreaded pll'ce

\\lth II'.IX p,II'l'r ,H 1'1.1 I iL 11m!"

10 fini h the dish

I. [kit till' stiliI' IIntii qUite \I,mll Nf)\\ heell ,I Llrgl' bllet ,l1\d S,llItl- the c()nch until nlldy culmed on

I",th 1,le, !\l'tll<l\l' It) p,,, C'r t()wd lInlil all the ,meh t look"d, N,,\\' qllKkly c!h)1' thl' c()uked lllnch
IIlt"I'leu'" I_I,IIL' till' ~oup Int,) " ..trill I owl ,\Od ,l(!cr the ('\loked e,l!) h ll\'C'r thl' "HIp,

~ote: AIl\ lI11cook d, brlelded ('ooch rt k turnmg (.olm o\'crmght It I hc t to lonk :my l"!lnlh t1ut 1ll.IY
1'e,I,'elllcJ L! tr,\ ,l1ld "dd II to till ollk ,d <lUI or ,nc for leftl)\' r , AI 0, for all' chock·!llll·oi. tufi ( lip,

l'tlll,an "II ,Illll' llr II ,Ii h, \t·,md·halt an I ed n ,\g, In to t,) te,

uanmhNotc 11th· til g,\r!1\ h dl\~ (UP \11th Or'.lO p • tI 11 ,to, tcJ ( nl1llt, (\\lc\, Clll\l'IIIIW, "ltron ('I'

Ilk

f•



Alice Waters

CHEZ PANISSE
Berkeley. California

I GREDIENTS:

1.8~
2. Olive oil.

3. Garlic·

4. TomatoeS- (See Alice Waters' recipe for Pasta with Tomato Confit below.)

5.}{erbe Basil or rosemary, perhaps.

6. Salad greeo.--Wild rocket or chicories.

7. NoodIet-Any kind. I had great soba noodles recently, and I love Italian pasta.

8. CitnJI. I like citruS a lot-everything from limes to blood oranges.

9. Pip. I like them fresh. I like baking fish in fig leaves, which give it a coconut-like flavor and is very
aromatic. And I like cooking over fig wood.

10. Nuts. It's hard to choose probably almonds or walnuts.

TECH IQLE :

1. Cooki.. over fiftlpminB- I'd cook over a fire all the time. It feel somehow fundamental.
2. Wood -uiua 0¥eD. I love the flavors it imparts.

1 Seut~I! .Inpediena can come together very quickly; you can marry things in a hurry.

Pasta with Tomato Confit

by Alice Waters

: -about two n"- l ea p u. aanerovninegl.ayMera.kPeeaelbaenddocfobraesitlhleeatvoemsaitnoethseanbdotptolamceotfhaenmocvoeren-splrli~~ dish that
Ihe hold .. " 'll ea . ..., down on

aQd.....tot...... J 'jlcIy and pep-Jer. Pour in enough extra virgin othlievetoomilattooecsoamreeshoaftlfwanadcyoluiogpkhetdhdyeacsnaiddraedmsroaeilf:ned
L.....1.1./2..h.o"urs- an
..-.-.IIIfQ...... a pretw .ted 3SOO oven, untl'1

oil with their perfume. Son on to taSte and .erve spooned over

., cu' • .,



9. tleruL-_r--m.--int or basil or thyme. It would make my food have some extra dl'mensI,on.

10. Corn· 1love com. 1grew up eating com; it's a very satisfying vegetable for me. It's k' d f a starchIveg-

10 0

etable.

"I can make my own. salt; I could .boil ocean wat,er in a pan. My mind is racing now-I'm thinking
about ginger and garlic. I guess Pekmg duck doesn t fit. And you can tell I'm not a dessert person," says

White.

TH.H IQlE :

1. Grilling. I love the flavor of the grill-that wood flavor. I like what the intense heat can do, the way

it caramelizes the fat on the outside of meat and kind of chars the hells of shellfish. It's not just the
flavor that the grill adds to the food, but it' the way it brings out the flavor in the food, too, and kind

of seals it in.
2. Pan-frying. It' a good way to seal m flavor. The other good thmg i it' a technique I can use to intro-

duce fat into the food.

3. Boiling. You need a versatile way t c Ie. food . You can make oup and broths.

- --~--~---------





I think of food as an experience,
not as an entity or a product, and
I.t,s gI.ven me a tremendous edge.
I think of it as performance art,
and of every detail as bemg
equally important. The whole
expen.ence has to be conscIOUS.
So the chef needs to emerge as
the controlling influence from
the kitchen and direct the entire
production, keeping it all on the

same level."
O'Connell observes that more people are regarding the restaurant

experience as theater. "And it's either a good play or a bad play. It's fresh or
it's tired. And it's genuine or it's fake. More and more, it seems to boil down
to that for me," he says. "It's either right or it's wrong. And you're continual-

ly aiming for that right-on feelmg."

Certain chefs belteve that some of food's expressiveness has been lost
due to its abstraction from it~ meaning in ltfe and Its meaning in society.

"What we've done i: demeaned It by crcatmg celehrity chefs anJ hot restau-

rants,"ay Mark ~1iller. "\Ve\'c tnpped it of ~()me of its po. ~ibilities, and
some of It humanne " and ~ me of Ib 'ensuallty-it~ simplest level of an
expenence. Too many y ung chef: .ue t cerllng what the meJia has pro-
moted food and the re taurant inlu,try hem' ahour."

Cuimary C:lrt~t ,on the Other hand, un ler t, nJ the multifaceted potcn-
tial wlthm th dinmg exp ncn e. "AI Forno t , comhmatlon of things-I

don't thmk YOll can pm mt any parr I ular a peer of the expertence. We

started with the front door, an gave thought to the entrance ,md working
your way through the re tauram-the VI 1I, I ,the mel!, a tlvdting all the

:en e.•" ay George German. "J thmk we h ve everythmg workmg tn the

same ireellon, 0 chat we try to m ke the pI ture complete."
Johanne KIlleen poin out, "George de igned everything In the re tau'

rant, mclu mg the equipment. There' a umt)' to the look of the re murant

and the look of the food. We've h d toral control." Germon add, "And
beeause we are el -contamed. In that we d about 99 percent of e\er,'

thmg our:,ch'e • It really I a pure vi Ion."

:usan Femger ) that at Border Gnll With partner Mary ue Mllirken,

"We've aIwa) been huge believer that eVeT)thtng matte~\el1thm tr}(ll

the \'aIet to the bathr m to the busbo) t the wbl' ttln It' n t that th

ha\e to be f ncy, but there IS a cuttmg cd t th m. In the be tnnlng ~ "r

reall extreme bout e\el)thmg that \\ P n f th tual t ng perLeno,t:

A


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