2021-05-01 National Geographic Traveller Food

www.sanmarzanowines.com

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Masha Rener’s potato FOR THE SAUCE Once the oil has cooled, use a fine mesh
& Parma ham-filled ravioli 80ml extra virgin olive oil strainer to strain the lemon juice into a
with Amalfi lemon 2 Amalfi lemons, 1 zested and both juiced (to make large bowl. Add a pinch of salt and begin to
emulsify with a whisk or mixer. Once the salt
Drawing on Italian heritage ingredients, this 100ml fresh lemon juice) has dissolved, add a pinch of black pepper
creative pasta dish perfectly balances the and continue stirring. Add the now-cold
creaminess of the potatoes and the saltiness of METHOD oil and continue to whisk until the ingredients
Parma ham, with everything brought together Tip the flour onto your work surface are well combined and have formed a slightly
by a beautiful Amalfi lemon emulsion. Potato dense emulsion. Set aside.
with pasta may seem odd, but it’s common in and create a well in the middle. Add
Italy, and a firm favourite in our restaurants. We the eggs, olive oil and a pinch of salt to Roll out the dough on an even work
recommend using fresh, high-quality potatoes the well. Starting  from the centre, surface to a thickness of around 0.25cm
and taking your time with the emulsion. gradually work the flour into the liquid (almost paper-thin). Stamp out 36 discs,
SERVES: 6 TAKES: 1 HR 30 MINS until it forms a dough, continuing to each roughly 8-10cm in diameter. Spoon
knead until smooth (around 10-15 mins). around 1 tbsp filling into the middle of 18 of
INGREDIENTS Wrap the dough in cling film and let it rest the discs, then dab a little of the egg white
300g plain flour in a cool, dry space for at least 30 mins around the edge of each of these discs.
3 eggs before using. Top each one with an unfilled dough disc
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for frying and press the edges together with a fork to
egg white, for dabbing Meanwhile, make the filling. Boil the create 18 ravioli.
12 slices of Parma ham (or a 200g piece chopped potato cubes in unsalted water until soft and
easily penetrated by a knife or fork. Drain, Boil the pasta in 4 litres of salted water for
into small, thin sticks) reserving some of the cooking water, then 3 mins. (If you’re not using them straight away,
transfer the potatoes to a bowl and mash you can freeze the pasta; simply boil straight
FOR THE FILLING into a puree. Add the parmesan, nutmeg, from frozen, but add a minute or two to the
500g potatoes, peeled and cubed (use a variety salt, pepper and butter and mix well. Taste boiling time.)
and adjust the seasoning if necessary. If
that’s good for mashing, such as Maris Piper or the mixture is too tough, add a little of Meanwhile, if you’re using chopped Parma
King Edward) the reserved cooking water to loosen it ham, heat a little olive oil in a pan, add the
100g parmesan, grated, plus extra, to serve up slightly. ham and fry for a few minutes until crisp.
pinch of nutmeg
1 tsp salt For the sauce, warm the oil in a pan set over Drain the pasta and place in a large serving
1 tsp pepper a medium heat. Add the lemon zest, then dish. Top evenly with the emulsion, extra
50g butter immediately remove the pan from the heat grated parmesan and either the sliced or fried
and let it get cold. Parma ham.

IMAGE: LINA STORES

NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/FOOD -TR AVEL 51

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Octopus and chickpea dish at Anice Stellato, Venice
Clockwise from above: Verona Cathedral; meats from
Pane e Vino, Verona; al fresco dining at La Zucca, Venice

52 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/FOOD -TR AVEL

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Veneto VENICE PADUA

E AT LIKE Antiche Carampane Trattoria da Nane della Giulia
A LOCAL
Getting lost in the winding alleys of San Polo Beloved by students and older residents alike,
STEP BEYOND ST MARK’S before finding the right turn is part of the this rustic trattoria is tucked down a side street
SQUARE FOR A TRUE TASTE experience of visiting Antiche Carampane, in Padua’s historic centre. The unfussy service
OF VENETO. WHETHER IT’S and the food is well worth it. This compact pairs well with the simple menu, which features
A TR ADITIONAL TR AT TORIA traditional restaurant serves fresh seafood Veneto classics made from the best seasonal
CO O KIN G WITH LO C ALLY — perhaps some of the best in Venice — in a ingredients from the nearby market. Among the
GROWN GRAINS, OR AN relaxed atmosphere, with a menu of Venetian many highlights: sopressa (a type of salami) and
EXPERIMENTAL OSTERIA classics with a personal touch. asiago cheese with polenta and radicchio, pasta
SERVING LAGOON-FRESH M U S T-T RY: Pasta in cassopipa — a tomato- e fagioli (pasta and bean soup) and chicken with
FISH, THE REGION IS based sauce with shellfish and a hint of mushrooms and pancetta.
OVERFLOWING WITH GREAT spice, echoing Venice’s trading heritage. M U S T-T RY: Renga (smoked herring) with
PL ACES TO EAT. WORDS: antichecarampane.com polenta and figs. bit.ly/trattoriandg
VALERIA NECCHIO
TEOLO VENICE
As diverse as its many landscapes,
from Alpine peaks to seascapes, the Al Sasso Anice Stellato
cuisine of Veneto is a kaleidoscope of
flavours in which geography, history The wildness of Al Sasso’s garden, where On a canal-side alley in calm Cannaregio, this
and social dynamics all play a part. hydrangeas mingle with wild weeds, stands in osteria, headed up by chef Elisa Pantano, has a
contrast to the neatly put-together interiors of reputation for serving a mix of quintessentially
Venice’s centuries as a maritime this country trattoria. Set in the hills of Padua Venetian dishes interpreted through a modern
republic, and its trading history province, it offers beautifully presented, lens. Familiar flavours are augmented by
with the Middle and Far East, have seasonal cooking rooted in the region. Locals unusual ingredients and combinations, and
shaped its culinary repertoire. love it both for the food and for proprietor a wine list leaning towards low-intervention
Though based on the bounty of the Lucio Calaon’s hospitality, while out-of-towners wines completes the picture. At the back, a little
sea, it shows distinctive exoticisms are drawn here by the signature fried chicken. terrace offers al fresco dining.
— from spices to sweet and sour M U S T-T RY: The pollo fritto (fried chicken) is M U S T-T RY: Fritto misto with up to 15 types of
notes — that are a testament to the worth the journey in itself. bit.ly/alSasso fish and seafood. osterianicestellato.com
city’s heritage, affluence and general
IMAGES: GETTY; AWL IMAGES; PANE E VINO; ANICE STELLATO open-mindedness. VENICE ASOLO

Moving inland, however, flavours Local Due Mori
start to change. The cuisine becomes
hearty, substantial and bound to Opened in 2015, Local’s ethos is spelled out in This smart, modern trattoria stands
the land. Meat replaces abundant its name: only the finest local ingredients are right in the heart of the artsy town of Asolo,
seafood as farmhouses replace the used, often sourced from the lagoon. Born and offering views of the hills from both the
palazzi. With the exceptions of a few brought up on the Venetian island of Burano, tastefully appointed dining room and the
staples — rice and polenta as starches chef Matteo Tagliapietra combines his heritage airy terrace. A refined crowd is drawn here for
of choice; bitter vegetables like with an international career at restaurants such as Due Mori’s concise menu of palate-pleasing,
radicchio, artichokes and asparagus; London’s Locanda Locatelli. The cooking has an distinctly Venetian creations — cooked in a
and the omnipresent baccalà (salted experimental slant, while the modern decor has wood-fired oven — which deliver on looks as
cod or stockfish) — rural Veneto is in touches by local craftspeople. The natural wines much as taste.
a league of its own. on offer are all from independent vignerons. M U S T-T RY: Sopa coada, a savoury pudding
M U S T-T RY: Risotto di gò, a creamy white fish of stale bread, cheese and ‘courtyard’ (mixed-
The dining scene across the region risotto hailing from Burano. ristorantelocal.com meat) ragu, served in rich chicken broth. 2mori.it
reflects these territorial variations in
the trattorias, which have kept their VERONA VENICE
offering traditional and regional.
They stand alongside contemporary Pane e Vino La Zucca
restaurants where chefs add their
own spin on local favourites. Located close to Verona’s cathedral, Pane e Vino It’s easy to feel ‘fished out’ after a few meals in
is a historic trattoria that’s a favourite among Venice, so La Zucca offers a welcome alternative,
locals, and ideal for visitors after a taste of with vegetable-centred dishes including hearty,
Veronese classics off the tourist trail. Informal homemade pastas. Carnivores, meanwhile,
in style, this friendly, family-run establishment should try the bigoli pasta with wild duck, or the
delivers wonderful fresh pasta primi, and no-frills mains featuring lesser-used cuts such as
— for the adventurous — traditional horse meat tripe or tongue. The wood-panelled walls are
braises, which are a beloved local speciality. reminiscent of a boat’s interior, while the views
M U S T-T RY: Risotto all’Amarone, made with are of Santa Croce and one of its canals.
a prized wine from Verona’s Valpolicella hills. M U S T-T RY: Pumpkin flan topped with
trattoriapanevino.it pumpkin seeds and grated cheese. lazucca.it

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Sicily Giorgio Locatelli’s pasta con le sarde

FU S ION FL AVOU RS The keys to this dish are the ’strattu, Sicily’s sun-dried
tomato paste, available in specialist shops (otherwise a
WITH INFLUENCES FROM GREECE TO NORTH AFRICA good tomato purée is fine); and wild fennel, which grows
AND BEYOND, THIS ISLAND’S CUISINE SETS IT APART abundantly on the island. Some people leave out the
FROM THE M AINL AND, SAYS CHEF GIORGIO LOCATELLI saffron, but I like the rich complexity of flavour it adds.
SERVES: 4 TAKES: 30 MINS
Sicily changed me. I didn’t go until I was in my 30s, and it altered
the way I thought about Italian food. I come from the north where INGREDIENTS 8 fresh sardine fillets
the influence is very much French, Austrian, German; we eat 3 salted anchovies or 30g sultanas
polenta, potato, risotto, that sort of thing. Sicily’s strategic position 30g pine nuts, lightly
between Africa and Europe has influenced its history. The English 6 anchovy fillets in oil
and French were there, the Spanish ruled, the Arabs dominated for 100g breadcrumbs toasted in the oven
over 150 years, and the Greek influence is huge — they introduced chopped garlic, anchovy a good pinch of saffron
various spices, fruits and vegetables, as well as irrigation. All this
has affected the cuisine. So, it’s a type of upside-down fusion food, or rosemary (optional) (around 20 threads)
where culture, rather than the chef, transforms the produce. 120ml extra virgin olive oil 3 sprigs wild fennel,
1 medium onion, chopped
Pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines), so the story goes, was 50ml white wine finely chopped, or
invented when an Arab general landed on the south side of the 2 tbsp ’strattu or 1½ tbsp 1 tsp fennel seeds
island and his cooks gathered what ingredients they could find 200g dry, eggless pasta,
to make a dish that pleased him. The anchovies used, called tomato purée such as bucatini
pesce azzurro (‘blue fish’), are small, flavourful and have a high
omega-3 content. METHOD IMAGE: LISA LINDER
If using salted anchovies, rinse and dry them.
This dish sums up Sicily: the Arabic combination of sultanas,
nuts and saffron — the latter something they brought from the Far Run your thumb gently along the backbone of each
East. Wild fennel and fish have been Sicilian since classical times, anchovy to release it (you should be able to pull it
but it took someone to arrive and reimagine them into a new dish. out easily). If using anchovies in oil, drain them.
And, as this is Italy and a recipe is never really a recipe, the dish
changes from village to village. The pine nuts might be exchanged Toast the breadcrumbs in a dry pan set over a
for something locally available, and in one restaurant I even ate it medium heat until they’re a dark golden-brown,
without anchovies. The fishing boats had yet to land their catch, so taking care not to burn them (for extra flavour, heat
the chef called it ‘pasta con le sarde a mare’ — pasta with sardines 1  tbsp olive oil with a little chopped garlic, anchovy
that still are in the sea. or rosemary, then add the breadcrumbs). Set aside.

Another eye-opener is the use of fried breadcrumbs instead of Heat half of the oil in a pan, then add the onion.
parmesan to finish the dish. Unlike in Northern Italy, cheese is a Sauté until softened but not coloured, then add the
rarity in Sicily, but the island has a flavour answer for everything. anchovy fillets, stirring them until they ‘melt’. Pour
With fewer ingredients, you have to be smart, and Sicily is the in the wine and simmer to let it evaporate, then add
epitome of this. There are some 10 to 12 ingredients found in the ’strattu and bring it back to the boil, adding just
cooking island-wide, which become incredible, varied dishes. enough water to give a sauce consistency. Add the
sardine fillets, sultanas, pine nuts, saffron and fennel.
Giorgio Locatelli is owner of Locanda Locatelli in London. Season to taste, stir gently and cook for 10 mins.
locandalocatelli.com
Cook the pasta for about 1 min less than packet
5 4 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/FOOD -TR AVEL instructions, so it’s al dente. Drain, reserving some
cooking water. Toss the pasta with the sardine sauce,
adding a little cooking water, if necessary, to loosen.
Sprinkle with the toasted breadcrumbs and serve.

Taken from Made in Sicily (£30, 4th Estate)

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breathtaking Dolomites … cradle of excellent
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Via Longa, 1 - Sarche, Madruzzo (TN) Italia
Tel +39 0461 564 168 [email protected] www.toblino.it

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Emilia-Romagna

SIX UNMISSABLE DISHES

FROM BOLOGNA TO MODENA , EMILIA-ROM AGNA I S ARGUABLY THE ITALIAN REGION MOST
SYNONYMOUS WITH FOOD. CHEF ANGEL A HARTNET T SELECTS HER FAVOURITE LOCAL DISHES

From left: chef Angela What sets Emilia-Romagna apart is the quality of its pasta, and can’t be rushed. Once, I made some in a hurry IMAGES: JOHN CAREY; GETTY
Hartnett; Via Cesare ingredients; balsamic vinegar, parmesan and Parma and I added too many breadcrumbs. My sister, one of
Battisti in Modena, with ham all come from here, as does culatello (‘little butt’) the loveliest people in the world but by no means a cook,
the UNESCO-listed Torre cured pork rump, which is extraordinarily expensive, tasted it and knew it wasn’t good. You must get the
Civica beyond; Angela’s but so worth seeking out. This is the land of pork, but, balance in the filling just right, and the chicken broth
spinach and ricotta tortelli since we’re in the Po Valley, a lot of risotto rice is also needs to be light, not a heavy consommé. My husband
grown here, and durum wheat. It’s fertile country, wet at made it one Christmas — it’s a dish for the holidays —
times, and great for mushrooms come autumn. and my mum pushed it away: far too rich.
Where to try: Trattoria Città D’Umbria, in Tosca di
My mother’s family are from Bardi, in the Province Varsi, just outside Bardi, or with tortellini at Trattoria
of Parma, and we visited often from our home in Wales, Anna Maria, in Bologna. trattoriacittadumbria.it
eating fantastic pasta dishes and great bread, all made trattoriannamaria.com
by my grandmother. We were sent home with suitcases
stuffed with cheeses, salumi, breads and bakes of Tagliatelle alla Bolognese
phenomenal quality. At the village’s one restaurant
— now defunct — I’d always eat the same thing: anolini The dish’s eponymous home is Bologna, but in nearby
(otherwise known as cappelletti) in brodo [broth]. It Modena you’ll find Salumeria Hosteria Giusti, where
could be the height of summer, but I’d always have that the mum cooks and her son and daughter serve. What
steaming hot pasta in broth; so delicious. makes the dish special here — like any great tagliatelle
alla Bolognese — is the use of tomatoes, or lack of. The
Anolini in brodo sauce may have a small teaspoon of conserva (tomato
purée), but you certainly won’t find tinned tomatoes or
Comforting but not comfort food, these small, filled mushrooms, and the meat (veal, beef and pork) is diced
pasta parcels in broth take real skill to make. They’re by hand rather than minced. The soffritto — the carrot,
classic cucina povera (‘poor kitchen’, meaning nothing celery and onion base — is really finely chopped, to the
goes to waste), using braised meat, broth, breadcrumbs,

56 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/FOOD -TR AVEL

point that it’s unidentifiable, and the sauce is cooked sliced cold charcuterie: lardo (cured, seasoned fatback), MAKE ME
slowly, for three or four hours, with a touch of milk mortadella or similar. The hot, saltiness is just delicious.
added at the end for creaminess and richness. And, of Where to try: Restaurant Cocchi, a Parma establishment Find Angela’s
course, it’s never served with spaghetti, only tagliatelle. where bottles of wine line the walls. ristorantecocchi.it spinach & ricotta
Where to try: Salumeria Hosteria Giusti, Modena. tortelli recipe at
hosteriagiusti.it Crostata nationalgeographic.
co.uk/food-travel
Torta di spinaci o patate Emilia-Romagna is associated with umami flavours
— braised meat, pasta, parmesan and cured pork — but
Found at most local bakeries, these spinach or potato there are also a few desserts people don’t immediately
tarts are a bit like quiche, but with no eggs. The pastry think of that are worth seeking out. A local favourite
base (made with extra virgin olive oil, flour and water) is crostata: a jam tart often made with seasonal fruit,
is filled with potato, bacon, leek and parmesan; and for such as cherries from Vignola, a small town just south of
torta di spinaci, with chopped spinach (or more likely, Modena. Also, don’t miss walnut cake (if you can find it,
local Swiss chard), nutmeg and salt, cooked down. You’ll as it’s a classic home-bake; restaurants are more likely
find them in bakeries across the region, and each place to serve a plate of fruit for dessert). It’s made with egg
has its own variation, some with more bacon, leeks or whites, so really light and fluffy, and Emilia-Romagna
onions; I like mine really nicely cooked underneath. My produces excellent walnuts. Unripe green ones, picked in
great auntie Giovanna made the best torta di patate, early summer make the local digestif, nocino.
with polenta flour underneath for a perfectly cooked Where to try: Local homes, if you can, or at Vignola’s
base, and tiny sprinkling of sugar on top, so it slightly annual cherry festival in June.
caramelised. My mum’s sister, Viviana, makes torta di
spinaci, cooling it — as I do — covered on top, before Spinach & ricotta tortelli
flipping it onto a wire mesh to finish the underside.
Where to try: Borgo in Tavola bakery. 9, Via Nazionale, This dish epitomises Emilia-Romagna, thanks to the
in Borgo val di Taro combination of pasta and spinach, or rather Swiss chard,
which is what’s used here, although it’s called spinach. It
Torta fritta, or gnoccho fritto seems so simple, and it’s just served with melted butter,
freshly grated parmesan and grated pepper but it comes
This is really worth trying because of the quality of the down to quality ingredients. Only the best parmesan
salumi — various types of local cured pork, which might and the freshest ricotta go into the filling.
include spalla cotta and cruda (a more delicate prosciutto Where to try: Sorelle Picchi, in Parma’s cobbled centre.
di Parma), coppa, and the prized culatello. The pasta, trattoriasorellepicchi.com
often gnocchi, is made with flour, yeast and water, and
when fried expands like a pillow. You could say it’s like a Angela Hartnett is executive chef and proprietor of
fried doughnut — only not sweet, and a different dough, several restaurants including Murano and Cafe Murano in
but it gives you the picture. It’s served hot with freshly London. muranolondon.com

NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/FOOD -TR AVEL 57



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Lazio

AS OLD AS THE HILLS

FOR CENTURIES, CHEESEM AKERS IN RUR AL L A ZIO HAVE PRODUCED Basilica di San Pietro, Tuscania
PECORINO ROM ANO, A SHEEP ’S MILK CHEESE WHOSE FL AVOUR
SPEAKS OF THE SURROUNDING LANDSCAPE. WORDS: RACHEL RODDY Below: Francesco Marras at
work in his dairy; wheels of
aged pecorino

IMAGES: GETTY; 4 CORNERS I arrive at the dairy just in time to see the culinary patrimony on to the Romans,
milk reach the right temperature: 180 who absorbed it and made it their own.
litres from the morning’s milking, almost
filling the stainless steel cauldron, hits a Two and half thousand years later, this
precise 42C. Through the screen door is a age-old food culture is still going strong.
garden lined with olive trees and beyond Francesco is going to salt or brine the
them fields, which, when you look closely, curds, depending on what sort of pecorino
are thick with tiny spring flowers, tufts he’s making — pecorino being the generic
of wild fennel, saw-edged chicory and word for a cheese made with sheep’s milk.
menacing swirls of thistles. No wonder Living in Rome, I’m most familiar with
sheep have grazed here happily for pecorino romano, which is beloved in the
thousands of years. capital, where it’s known as cacio. When
it’s young — four or five months old — and
There’s rennet in the cauldron too, so still tender and mild, it’s eaten as a table
the sheep’s milk has been transformed cheese, especially in spring, paired with
into brilliant white curds suspended the first broad beans of the year. Then, as
in yellow whey. Francesco Marras uses it ages it becomes grating cheese, its sharp,
his big hands to press the curds into bossy flavour fundamental to the quartet
perforated plastic baskets. Each one is of classic Roman pastas — carbonara,
then inverted into another basket, cacio e pepe, gricia (pecorino and
leaving the soon-to-be pecorino guanciale, a cured pork) and amatriciana
cheeses with maze-like imprints on top. (pecorino, guanciale and tomato).
Francesco’s dairy, Azienda Agricola
Francesco Marras, is part of his home, Francesco is Sardinian, and ever since
surrounded by soft green pastures just the end of the 19th century, most pecorino
outside the town of Tuscania, in central romano DOC (denominazione di origine
Italy’s Lazio region. controllata, or controlled designation
of origin) has been made on the island.
Google Maps tells me we’re in However, 10% is still made in specific
Viterbo, the northernmost of Lazio’s five parts of Lazio, including Tuscia, which,
provinces, and an hour and half’s drive thanks to its cheesemaking tradition, has
from Rome. Locals, however, always a significant Sardinian community. The
refer to the area as Tuscia. It’s a name area is also home to flocks of Sardinian
that echoes ancient Etruria, one of the sheep, widely considered the best Italian
most significant and ancient of Italy’s breed for milk. Every milking is different,
historical regions, dating back to the 11th though, depending on temperature,
century BC. It was home to the Etruscans, humidity and season, and ageing is
whose civilisation and culture was defined by the same factors, resulting in a
central to the story of Italy and of Rome. real range of colours and textures.

They also had a huge impact on the Before we leave, Francesco offers
gastronomy of this area, with their up some tasters. First, a bright white
evolved farming and planting of crops pecorino, freshly made, then a pale
— wheat, barley, broad beans, lentils and and tender three-month-old. To finish
more — as well as focaccia-making and there are craggy slices of three-year-old
cultivation of vines and olives. They were pecorino, golden-yellow, with flavours of
skilled at hunting and breeding animals, hazelnuts, straw and salted butter, all of
especially sheep, creating cheeses which linger long after I’ve driven past
for which they used wild artichokes the olive trees, out of the gate and into
as rennet. The Etruscans passed this Etruscan country.

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Tu s c a n y

LIQUID GOLD

IN TUSCANY’S CHIANTI REGION, M AT TEO BOGGIO ROBUT TI, OF A ZIENDA AGRICOL A
PORNANINO, PRODUCES EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL USING AN ANCIENT METHOD

Olives and grapes are the only two things that grow in retired, it’s just down to my wife, Francesca, and me, but FOOD TOURS
this rocky, very rural part of Chianti. When my father- every autumn, we hire six to nine people to help us bring
in-law brought Pornanino, an abandoned 17th-century in the olives. Hand-harvesting allows you to feel if an ITA LY R E A L FO O D
Tuscan vineyard estate, he decided to plant olives. His olive is ready to be picked — when it’s at its best. Within ADVENTURE
retirement project quickly produced more oil than our three to four weeks, all 4,000 trees are harvested, the Going from Venice
family could consume, so we sold it to friends and the olives pressed and the oil bottled and distributed. to Rome, this eight-
business grew from there. day group trip
Good-quality extra virgin olive oil always has a certain includes balsamic
We make extra virgin olive oil using a traditional ‘first bitterness. If it tastes sweet or flat, it’s old. We produce vinegar-tasting,
cold press’ method that’s almost lost. Of Tuscany’s 120 one type, blending four olive varieties: frantoio (found pasta-making
or so producers, only a handful use millstones to press. throughout Italy) and local moraiolo, pendolino and in Bologna and
Our method is how the Romans would have done it, but leccino. It has notes of green grass, artichoke and a farmstay in
using a motor rather than a donkey to turn the millstone, almond, with a peppery, bitter-hops flavour that’s short- Tuscany. From
and then pruning, picking, pressing and bottling by hand. lived on the palate. £1,810, including
B&B and transfers,
We’re chemical-free. The value of extra virgin olive oil Tuscan extra virgin olive oil is the best — and one of but not flights.
is largely assessed on taste, but for us, its nutritional the most expensive — in the world. It’s a truly balanced intrepidtravel.com
qualities are equally important, particularly the oil that doesn’t overwhelm food but retains character.
antioxidants that make olive oil central to the healthy It’s a great all-rounder, for frying, dressing, roasting and S I C I LY FO O D
Mediterranean diet, and trees grown without chemicals even baking. ADVENTURE
are essential for producing healthy olive oil. We grow An eight-day group
4,000 trees over 88 acres, each in a 13-16ft plot. I start Green doesn’t mean good. The chlorophyll that makes trip featuring street
pruning in April and in about six months all trees have extra virgin olive oil green doesn’t stay suspended for food, market tours
been cut to allow sun and air to their branches. long; that green oil on the supermarket shelf almost and a cookery class,
certainly has additives. And transparent plastic bottles? plus olive oil and
Speed is essential when you harvest. From the moment Avoid them. Olive oil is sensitive to sunlight and cheese tastings.
the olive is picked, it starts to oxidise, and lose its flavour temperature changes, so dark-coloured glass is best. From £1,549 with
and nutritional value. Now my father-in-law has fully pornanino.com oliveoil.chiantionline.com B&B and transfers,
but not flights.
exodus.co.uk

From left: extra virgin olive oil is IMAGE: GETTY
central to the Mediterranean diet;

Azienda Agricola Pornanino

60 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/FOOD -TR AVEL

CAORLE,

HISTORIC VILLAGE BY THE SEA

A few kilometres from Venice,
Caorle is ideal for a relaxing summer holiday.
Here you can enjoy not only the golden sandy beach,
but also local traditions, vibrant history
and beautiful natural scenery.

IAT Tourist Information | tel. +39 042181085 | E-mail: [email protected] Discover more on Caorle.eu

secTrheet life
of sake
FROM BOISTEROUS BARS
IN TOKYO TO BUCOLIC WORDS: OLIVER SMITH
BREWERIES IN THE PH OTO G R APH S: M ARK PARREN TAYLO R
HINTERLAND BEYOND
THE CAPITAL, SAKE IS
INTERTWINED WITH

JAPAN ’S CULTUR AL AND
SPIRITUAL LIFE

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SAKE

Sake is delicious yet deadly. On first
taste it’s subtle and sophisticated.
It tiptoes about the palate. It arrives
politely and even bows. Then, before
too long, it kicks you off your feet.

Previous spread: Shinjuku’s For while sake has the drinkability of wine, cupboard. Here, a sign reads ‘NO SAKE,
Omoide Yokocho is a cluster of it can often be 15-20% ABV. I reflected on NO LIFE’.
alleyways lined with yakitori this one morning in Tokyo, lying limp in my
grills and bars handkerchief-sized hotel room on the seventh Kurand Sake Market is one of a small chain
floor of a 34-floor tower block. Splayed out of sake specialists in the capital. Ryuzo and I
Clockwise from top: The busy on my bed, all the tonnage of the 27 floors buy tickets that entitle us to all-you-can-drink,
streets of Shinjuku; bottles above seemed to press down on my forehead. pour-yourself sake for 90 minutes. I look at the
at Buko Shuzo brewery; Buko Sake can make for brutal hangovers. But it also clientele — smart, young professionals sipping
Shuzo has its own well and has a place in the soul of Japan. contentedly — and try to imagine the crater
several springs, which are of devastation should a similar drink-against-
used for making sake In simple terms, it’s a rice wine made from the-clock business open in the UK.
polished grain, and it’s brewed in practically
every corner of the country. What’s more, Recent history hasn’t been kind to sake. After
Japanese history has marinated, positively the Second World War, Japan opened its arms
stewed in sake. Yet, to many foreigners, (and its drinks cabinet) to the world. Beer and
it’s shrouded in misconception. For starters: wine quickly became fashionable. Sake was
it’s not even called sake. left on the shelf, and the number of breweries
almost halved in 30 years. Only in recent times
“We call it ‘Nihonshu’,” Ryuzo had explained has sake enjoyed a renaissance that Ryuzo
some 14 hours earlier, in more lucid times. likens to the recent global rise of craft beer.
“And Nihonshu means ‘the drink of Japan’.’’ While industrial-scale production has declined,
artisanal brewers, often known for their
Ryuzo is an old friend of mine with a products’ wacky labels and strange infusions,
fondness for sake-powered nights. At the start are taking off.
of our night out, I meet him in Shinjuku, next
to the famous statue of Godzilla roaring at the And there’s plenty of those at Kurand Sake
karaoke bars below. Market. The fridge door opens with a waft of
polar air, and I sense I’m entering a Narnia
Shinjuku is Tokyo’s nightlife HQ, stuffed of booze. There are umami sakes and fruity
with tourist traps for a bemused and jet- sakes. Sakes for beginners and boss-level sakes.
lagged clientele. Fortunately, Ryuzo knows There is one whose label solemnly carries the
his way around, and — following an unwritten disclaimer that ‘dog sell sake, cat make sake’.
rule for finding Tokyo’s best bars — avoids
the obvious, instead leading me into a Our 90 minutes starts, and we set out on a
drab, corporate building, where we catch a whistle-stop tour of Japan: mellow, cockle-
lift and open a nondescript door that you warming sakes from Hiroshima; clean, mineral
might expect would lead to a stationery flavours from the frosty mountains of Tohoku.

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SAKE

An expanse of Japanese silver grass FIVE TO TRY:
in Motosu district. It grows to an SAKE BREWERIES

average height of around 7ft, almost Ide Sake Brewery
obstructing the views of Mount Fuji
Perfectly located for visitors to
After 45 minutes, I’m trying gloopy white In the country Fuji, the brewery offers a tour of
sakes, the liquid as thick as yoghurt. Sake its inner workings and Japanese
offers a universe of sensations: cold, hot, To truly understand sake, I’ve been told, you garden for Y800 (£5.50). It also
sweet, savoury, all nurturing a warming glow have to leave Tokyo. Driving north, the traffic has tasting experiences, during
in your innards. thins and green hills emerge from the smog. which visitors can sample four
Rural Japan, it seems, has a split personality. grades of sake, for Y500 (£3.50).
Our 90-minute slot is soon over, and we There’s the world below: villages in the valley Take home a bottle of sweet
bundle out into Shinjuku, at which point floors; bullet trains racing rushing rivers. Daiginjou (premium-grade
the sequence of events is best interpreted And there’s the world above: shadowy woods; sake) from the brewery shop.
by looking at receipts the next morning. temples encased in cloud — a world that kainokaiun.jp
With or without a torso-full of sake, Tokyo is feels untethered to the 21st century. Sake is a
an intoxicating place. It’s a city of a billion product of the rural Japanese landscape: rice Buko Shuzo
decibels and a billion billboard pixels, and it’s from the fields, water from the mountains.
at its most potent at night. Free tours of this rustic timber
“Sake is part of the journey of life,” explains brewery, located in the centre
At one point, I drink sake in a Wendy Koichi Hasegawa. “It’s present at birthdays, of Chichibu, can be booked in
house-sized bar under railway lines, while weddings and funerals.” advance (in Japanese only). First
trains thunder overhead and the glasses timers should consider trying
tremble — as if the Godzilla statue had come Koichi is the 13th-generation owner of Buko out their fruity Chichibu Yuzu
alive and started wreaking havoc outside. Shuzo brewery in Chichibu, one of the first sake in the onsite shop, which
At another, I find myself at a skyscraper-top towns you reach going north from Tokyo. It’s retails for around £8.
bar, soaring into the upper atmosphere — the set in a 200-year-old building, whose timbers bukou.co.jp
bill also shooting up to the Milky Way — with lean at tipsy angles. Koichi is a head brewer
streetlights glinting like embers below. with a priest-like devotion, and a tendency Matsuoka Brewery
to talk in profound statements that you can
At some point, Ryuzo catches the last imagine having framed and hung on a wall. The acclaimed Matsuoka
train home and I amble aimlessly through Brewery makes the most
Tokyo, among people who, in the terminal When I visit Buko Shuzo, the autumn of the Chichibu mountains’
stages of intoxication, are chatting up the rice harvest is over and the winter brewing mineral-rich waters. In its shop,
vending machines and singing to the pigeons. season is in full swing. Workers carry giant the jewel in the crown is the
The feeling outsiders often speak of in Japan stirring rods, looking like lost gondoliers. aromatic Daiginjou (£75), made
is one of merry bewilderment — of being Understanding the process requires a sober with rice from western Japan.
generally content, while not being quite sure mind — and possibly the chemistry GCSE Free English-language tours
what’s going on at any given time. I failed. Rice is steamed in tanks, mixed are available by appointment.
with water, yeast and ‘koji’ mould culture, mikadomatsu.com
It’s the same with me and sake. I can fermented for a few days and left to stand.
understand, at best, about 15-20%. The water in Chichibu makes for a bold, Tokyo Port Brewery

Recently reopened after a
century of closure, the miniscule
Tokyo Port Brewery is one of
the few sake outfits in central
Tokyo, and makes its sake
with the city’s medium-soft
tap water. It’s not yet open for
tours, but there’s a tasting shack
parked outside on weeknights.
Buy a bottle of its sake-based
plum wine for around £15.
tokyoportbrewery.wkmty.com

Ishikawa Brewery

On the northwestern edge of
the Tokyo Metropolitan Area,
Ishikawa Brewery is set in a series
of 19th-century kura (traditional
storehouses) and offers regular,
free tours in English. As well
as its ‘Tamajiman’ sake range,
it brews craft beer on site.
tamajiman.co.jp

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SAKE

dry ‘karakuchi’ sake, which we sample in mountain feed the brewery spring. The water ESSENTIALS
porcelain cups. takes four decades to filter through Fuji’s
volcanic rock, arriving at the brewery after GETTING THERE
“Sake is all about making connections,” says most people who first saw it falling as a flurry Japan Airlines,
Koichi, with a smile. “There’s a saying that of snow have passed into the next life. Unlike British Airways
goes, ‘It is better to drink sake with someone in Chichibu, the sake here is sweet, aromatic and ANA operate
once than it is to meet them 100 times without and heady — in compensation for the cold, regular flights to
drinking sake.’” inhospitable climate around the volcano, Tokyo Haneda from
Yogoemon explains. London. British
I ask him if sake is like wine — if there are Airways also has
illustrious vintages, and bottles that make “You can tell a great deal about a place from flights to Tokyo
him think of happy times gone by. But it the sake brewed there,” he adds. “It’s made with Narita. jal.co.jp
seems sake doesn’t keep well. “Brewers don’t local water and local rice, so when you taste it, ba.com ana.co.jp
want to make the same sake as they made the you’re truly tasting a part of local culture.”
previous year. They only want to improve it,” WHERE TO STAY
Kouichi explains. “You should not dwell on We taste our way through the different Ikoi no Mura
the past; only think of the present.” grades of sake, and Yogoemon speaks poetically Heritage
of how the drink is intertwined with Japanese Minoyama offers
For much of its history, sake brewing was life. He shares tales of drinking sake beneath views of the
reserved for temples and shrines, and it still the cherry trees in spring, when the rice is first wooded hills near
plays a part in Japan’s Shinto faith. Some sown, as pink leaves flutter into the glass and Chichibu, an onsen
believe its giddy effect helps you transcend drinkers reflect on beginnings; and of sake and a choice of
the mortal world and communicate with under the autumn moon, the lunar reflection Japanese- and
gods. Pilgrims sometimes use sake to purify quivering in the liquid, when drinkers might Western-style
themselves before entering shrines or climbing contemplate the endings in their lives. rooms. From
holy mountains. £70. ikoinomura-
Stepping out of the brewery and gazing up at minoyama.jp
“I think sake is a supernatural liquid,” says Mount Fuji, I recognise some of the ingredients The hilltop Rakuyu
Yogoemon Ide. “And it was originally used to of the sake: the smoothness of its slopes; the Fujikawaguchiko,
spread the word of God.” purity of its summit snows; an aftertaste as near Ide Sake
crisp as the cloudless skies above. Brewery, has great
Yogoemon is the president of Ide Sake views over Lake
Brewery — a family-operated brewery that From left: Inside a historic, Edo-period house Kawaguchi. Rooms
has been in business for 21 generations — near at the heart of the Ide Sake Brewery complex; from £140. onsen-
Lake Kawaguchi, south of Chichibu. Mount Yogoemon Ide, president of Ide Sake Brewery rakuyu.hotels-
Fuji rises above the brewery’s rooftops and fujikawaguchiko.
its silhouette adorns the sake bottles. What’s com
more, the meltwaters of Japan’s highest, holiest
HOW TO DO IT
Sake sommelier
Satoko Utsugi
runs sake-themed
evening itineraries
around Tokyo from
£52 per person.
airbnb.co.uk
Sake Tours runs
trips to Niigata,
in the north,
and to Mie and
Wakayama, sake
heartlands south of
Kyoto, from £2,500.
saketours.com

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TAKE THE

EPICUREAN
WAY

Spectacular places to eat,
drink and sleep, plus top
tips for behind the scenes
access to Adelaide’s best
winemakers and producers

With rugged national parks, sloping Clockwise from top:
vineyards, wild beaches and world-class The d’Arenberg cube; deli
restaurants, South Australia is a haven for cheese at Adelaide Central
anyone who loves the good things in life Market; wine and sharing plates
— food, wine and beautiful landscapes. at Mt Lofty Ranges Vineyard

Connecting it all is the Epicurean Way,
a 145-mile stretch of road that starts in
Adelaide and weaves its way through the
wine regions of McLaren Vale, The Adelaide
Hills, Barossa and the Clare Valley.

Adelaide’s thriving restaurant and
bar scene is crammed with chefs and
mixologists who proudly champion the
abundant local produce from nearby farms.
Check out Jordan Theodoros’ assured
Modern Australian menu at Peel St, or book
a table at Fishbank, a slick new seafood
outlet that offers a market-fresh menu
including the likes of flathead ceviche and
Abrolhos Island scallops.

From the city, it’s an easy hour’s drive
to more than 200 cellar doors offering
vineyard tours, on-site dining and wine
tastings. It’s no surprise Adelaide is
recognised as the vineyard capital of
Australia and one of just 10 Wine Capitals
of the World.

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Epicurean Way itinerary THE CLARE VALLEY Three to try
in Adelaide
THE ADELAIDE HILLS A 90-minute drive north of the Barossa (and
about the same distance from Adelaide) lies Eat at … Africola
The Adelaide Hills are a picturesque the Clare Valley, one of Australia’s oldest This buzzy spot serves
tapestry of rolling hills, stepped vineyards wine regions, home to some 50 cellar doors. African-inspired plates
and upscale rustic cottages — all within a 25 made from local produce.
minute-drive of the city. The expansive grounds of the Sevenhill Dishes include hiramasa
Cellars include historical sites such as the kingfish with chickpea
Small-batch, family-run vineyard and grandiose St Aloysius’ Church, a nod to its papadum or goat’s curd
cellar door Shaw+Smith is a must-visit. origins producing sacramental wines for its stuffed medjool dates.
They produce exquisite sauvignon blanc, Jesuit founders. As well as a tasting room,
chardonnay, pinot noir and shiraz varietals, there’s also a winery museum. Drink at … Pink
all fermented, aged and bottled on site. Moon Saloon
From here, it’s a short hop to Pikes Wines, An alpine-style cabin,
Later, retreat to the luxury digs at nearby producers of exceptional riesling, shiraz Pink Moon Saloon’s menu
Esto Wines, a three-bedroom house decked and cabernet. For a different tipple, the team specialises in local beer and
out in creamy hues, with polished timber also run Pikes Beer Company. The adjoining inventive takes on classics,
floors and big bathtubs. The wraparound Slate Restaurant fizzes with invention, such as the House Highball:
verandah is the real standout feature, with offering dishes such as Orroroo kangaroo blended Suntory, lemon
sweeping views over the Piccadilly Valley. tataki with chives and cavolo nero. kombucha and soda.
Don’t miss: Lot 100, a collective of five Don’t miss: Booking a luxury Belle Tent at
dynamic food and small batch beverage Bukirk Glamping, complete with king beds, Shop at … Adelaide
producers. Picnic on the lawn, enjoy lunch outdoor seating and private en suites. Central Market
in the restaurant or take in some live music. Take an eco-friendly
rickshaw tour around the
BAROSSA VALLEY MCLAREN VALE city before sampling food
from the best local artisan
A half-hour drive north brings you to Tucked between the Mount Lofty Ranges producers at this lively
the Barossa, famous for its artisan food and the Gulf St Vincent beaches — just 40 multicultural market.
producers and paddock-to-plate ethos. minutes’ drive from Adelaide — McLaren
Vale is shiraz country, and home to more Essentials
Among the highlights is the Barossa than 80 cellar doors and vineyards.
Valley Cheese Company. It produces creamy Getting around South Australia is
brie and thyme and lemon-marinated feta, The best way to get around the Vale is easy: driving is on the same side of
made from Barossa-sourced cows’ milk and by bicycle. Grab one from Onya Bike Hire the road as the UK, or join a locally
South Australian goat’s milk. or Oxygen Cycles and follow the five-mile guided tour. In Adelaide, choose
Shiraz Trail up to Willunga. from trains, trams and buses with
Next, head to one of Australia’s oldest Adelaide Metro.
wineries, Seppeltsfield. The fun ‘Taste Call in at Wirra Wirra Vineyards, where
Your Birth Year’ tour lets visitors sample a the cellars feel almost medieval, with arched
fortified wine as old as they are. doors, fireplaces, and red-brick floors.

Check-in to the The Louise, to enjoy gas- Wirra Wirra’s philosophy puts fruit
log fireplaces and a private outdoor rain purity and vineyard expression ahead of
shower. Make sure to dine at its Appellation almost everything else, resulting in bold,
restaurant — 85% of the ingredients on the award-winning vintages. Wine flights and
menu come from the Barossa Valley tours start at A$40 (£22).
Don’t miss: Join the Butcher, Baker, Don’t miss: McLaren Vale is home to
Winemaker Trail, a self-guided gourmet long stretches of stunning coastline. 4WD
food experience complete with Barossa vehicle tours along the beach are available.
Valley picnic hamper. Later, go snorkelling at Port Noarlunga.

IMAGES: DUY DASH; SOUTH AUSTRALIAN TOURISM COMMISSION

To find out more, visit southaustralia.com



POLAND

POLI SH C ARPATHIAN S

In southern Poland, among the pastures of the Beskids mountain ranges
and the Podhale region, Gorals (ethnic highlanders) uphold cheesemaking
traditions dating back hundreds of years. Each summer, during the grazing
season, head shepherds and their helpers take residence in distinct wooden
cabins and make sheep’s cheese. Their huts are located near hiking trails and
are accessible to tourists who come for a taste of this delicious local speciality

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS: KAROLINA WIERCIGROCH

Shepherds like Jarosław Buczek can be
responsible for herds of up to 600 sheep,
although typically as few as 100 will belong to
them — the rest are entrusted to their care for
the summer by local farmers. The shepherds
negotiate with local landowners the use of
fallow land, where the sheep graze on grass,
flowers and herbs — a diet that gives their milk
a distinct taste. The best-known mountain
cheeses are oscypek, gołka and redykołka. All
three smoked cheeses are made using the same
method — sheep’s milk is curdled, then the
curd is formed into balls and placed in wooden
moulds — but each has a different shape. Bundz
is also popular — a fresh, mild cheese, which,
if matured and milled with salt, can be turned
into crumbly bryndza. Meanwhile, żętyca, a
traditional fermented drink served to visitors,
is made of pasteurised sheep’s milk whey and
served in a carved wooden cup, called a cyrpok.

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POLAND

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POLAND

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POLAND

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POLAND

Polish Mountain sheep are native to the Polish
Carapathians. The breed is well adapted to the
local environment and resistant to adverse
conditions. Working with these animals on a
mountain pasture is hard — the sheep need
milking twice a day, usually before dawn and in
late afternoon; a herd of 500 takes three people
two hours to milk. In addition, the Gorals also
turn the fresh milk into cheese twice a day,
by hand. Monika Bryja (previous page) is one
of a very few female shepherds in the Polish
mountains, and her cabin, Bacówka U Korzenia
in Waksmund, is known for its hanging
baskets of pink petunias. The mountain cheese
shepherds like Monika produce is often served
straight, but can also be used as an ingredient.
Here, Małgorzata Buczek, who makes
condiments from foraged mountain produce,
serves her husband’s bryndza mixed with a
homemade wild garlic pesto (pictured right).

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POLAND

While Gołka cheese is cylindrical and oscypek
is spindle-shaped, redykołka comes in a variety
of animal shapes: duck, rabbit, deer, fish and
sheep. Traditionally, shepherds prepared
redykołki towards the end of summer as little
treats to give to their children after months of
being away from home. Today, redykołki are
prepared for redyk — a festival that celebrates
shepherding culture and traditions. Festivities
takes place twice a year: in spring, when the
herds are mixed and shepherds take them up to
the pastures, and in autumn, when they return
to the valleys.

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SPIRIT OF WILD WEST
THE

Nicki and Joe Woolley are co-owners of the award-winning Elemental Cornish Gin,
which they produce from the bottom of their garden in the Cornish countryside

Describe an ordinary working day. time for dinner and the sunset. We feel really lucky to be
Nicki: The distillery is a little building/big shed at the able to call it home and are proud to be part of the brilliant
bottom of the garden. We are a family team, and a day can and diverse community of craft producers and small
consist of anything from hand-peeling oranges and lemons independent businesses down here.
for distilling to delivering orders and manning the stall at
the local farmers’ market. It’s a team effort here — what How important is sustainable and local sourcing?
with me being a mum to a toddler (with another one on the Joe: We want to make gin in a way that’s as respectful to
way) and Joe still working his ‘day job’. Think lots of late- the environment as it can be. From biodegradable seals to
night bottling and labelling! planting trees, we’re on a mission to reduce any negative
impact that we have on our world. We’re looking deep into
What makes Elemental Cornish Gin unique?  every area of production and distribution so that we can
Joe: Set up back in 2013, Elemental was one of the first make better, more sustainable choices. We also want to
gins in over 300 years to be exclusively distilled and make a positive impact on the people around us — from
bottled in Cornwall. It’s a classic, premium gin that pays the people who make it to the people who drink it. We have
tribute to the elements, Cornwall and our traditional a great team here at Elemental HQ and work with some
methods of distillation. We craft each bottle by hand right absolutely awesome local partners and suppliers, and we
here in our family-run distillery. Transforming organic always try to keep it Cornish wherever possible.
grain alcohol and locally sourced Cornish spring water into
Elemental Cornish Gin takes time and precision. By using How do you like to drink Elemental Cornish Gin?
traditional methods and making small batches, we ensure Nicki: Classic G&T all the way, garnished with orange peel
only the smoothest heart of the distillate makes it into our or maybe a sprig of lemon thyme.
gin. Apart from the addition of locally sourced Cornish Joe: Honestly? I prefer whisky. [Nicki kicks Joe under the
spring water, what comes out of the still is exactly the same table] OK! OK! Neat or with a Sea Buck Tonic.
as what goes into the bottle.

IMAGE: ABIGAIL HOBBS What do you love most about living in Cornwall? Essentials

Nicki: From the wild north Cornish coast to the rugged A 70cl bottle of Classic Elemental
hills of the moors, we love where we live. We’re an outdoors Gin costs £35. It’s also available
family, and there aren’t many places in the world you can in Apple, Raspberry and Spring
go to the beach for a surf before breakfast or collect your Citrus flavours.
daughter from day care and head down to the beach in

For more information, visit elementalgin.co.uk



DECONSTRUCT

PEKING DUCK

Offering an irresistible combination of flavours and textures, this classic
Chinese dish has a long and complex history — and a cooking process to match

WO R D S : F U C H S I A D U N LO P. P H OTO G R A P H S : Y U K I S U G I U R A
FOOD ST YLI ST: JENNIFER JOYCE

A young chef in a white toque parks a trolley meat; duck is somewhat overlooked. But for they’d hang four ducks inside each opening,
by the side of the table. On it is a duck; plump Peking duck, locals make an exception. shut the oven doors and then open them about
and glossy, its skin is an enticing caramel an hour later, once all the ducks were roasted.”
and entirely smooth. With a long knife, the The dish is said to have originated during
chef shears off slices of lacquered skin and the 13th century in Hangzhou, not far from Some time during the Ming dynasty, a roast
then succulent meat, laying them neatly on Shanghai. Roast duck was one of the cooked duck shop named Old Bianyifang, in Beijing’s
a serving platter. Pancakes are taken from a foods sold door-to-door by street vendors, and it Rice Market Hutong, became known for the
stack in a bamboo steamer, anointed with dark became a speciality of nearby Nanjing, the quality of its birds, which were cooked in a
tianmian sauce, laid with slices of duck and first capital of the Ming dynasty. Allegedly, it menlu. But it wasn’t until later, during the
shards of leek and cucumber and rolled up, was only after 1420, when the Yongle emperor Qing dynasty (which lasted from 1644 to 1912)
ready to be eaten. The crisp skin, dipped in moved his capital to Beijing, that roast duck that Peking duck enjoyed its heyday. Among
white sugar, melts instantly in the mouth. The found its way to the city. Originally, it was the various restaurants jostling for position
combination is irresistible: the fragrance of known as ‘Jinling roast duck’ (Jinling being an was one that opened in 1885 under the revived
the meat and skin, the savoury hit of the sauce, archaic name for Nanjing). Over time, chefs in Bianyifang name — a brand that lives on
the refreshing contrast of the vegetables. Beijing bred a local variety that became known today, with many branches, although the birds
for its snowy-white feathers, thin skin and are now roasted in gas ovens.
Peking duck is one of the world’s great tender flesh and was regarded as far superior to
dishes and as much an emblem of Beijing as the ducks of Nanjing. During the Qing dynasty, chefs began to
the Forbidden City or the old hutong lanes. roast their ducks in a new kind of ‘hanging
Surprisingly, though, it’s a gastronomic According to veteran Beijing chef Ai Guangfu, oven’, called a gualu, which enabled them to
anomaly in this arid, northern city. Most in the earliest days of Chinese roast duck, the cook the birds one by one, to order. This new
of China’s classic duck dishes hail from the birds would be roasted on a large metal fork method soon eclipsed the menlu and, even now,
watery Jiangnan region around Shanghai, over an open fire. But in the southern capital, is synonymous with the finest Peking duck.
where ducks swim in paddy fields and ponds Nanjing, they began to roast them in a menlu
and appear in delicacies such as Nanjing (an enclosed oven), so that more could be Today, in the popular Siji Minfu restaurant,
saltwater duck and Hangzhou duck soup. In cooked at once. “The menlu was a square, brick- near the eastern side of the Forbidden City’s
Beijing, aside from the ubiquitous pork and built oven with a door on every side,” says Ai. moat, fruitwood fires blaze at the open mouths
chicken, lamb is the most distinctive local “The chefs would build a fire in the middle, and of a row of brick ovens. Inside, ducks are hung
when it had burnt down to smouldering embers, in the fierce heat on metal racks. Chefs tend
them carefully, turning and adjusting the birds

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DECONSTRUCT

until each is perfectly cooked — a process that’s True Peking duck, with pancakes, but also crisp, hollow sesame seed
much more precise and convenient than the the special equipment pastries that can be stuffed with slices of duck.
batch-roasting of the menlu. it requires, is almost Aside from white Beijing leek and cucumber,
impossible to make at home, the duck may be complemented with crushed
The hanging oven technique was developed but borrowing certain garlic or pickled vegetables.
by chefs in the kitchens of the Forbidden traditional techniques
City, where the Qing imperial family had a (scalding and sugaring the After the main event, the remnants of the
predilection for roasted meats (records show skin, wind-drying before meat may be stir-fried with beansprouts. Most
that, in 1761, the Qianlong Emperor once ate roasting) creates something restaurants also brew up a milky broth using
roast duck eight times within a fortnight). close to the real thing the bones plus some Chinese cabbage or winter
In the late 19th century, a former poultry melon. The grandest duck restaurants take
trader called Yang Quanren introduced it the experience to dazzling extremes, offering
to the Beijing public. After years running a a whole-duck banquet (quan ya xi), in which
street stall selling ducks and chickens, in 1864 delicacies are concocted from every part of the
he opened his own restaurant, Quanjude, carcass, from hearts to gizzards.
recruiting a team of former palace chefs
to staff it. Quanjude’s roast duck, with its In many of London’s Chinese restaurants,
burnished skin and juicy flesh, quickly won meanwhile, the much-easier-to-prepare
the favour of the city’s upper classes and crispy duck is often served with all the Peking
literati. The restaurant went on to survive trimmings. For this dish, the meat is seasoned,
the Japanese invasion, civil war and Cultural steamed and then simply deep-fried before
Revolution in the 20th century, emerging as serving, creating a dish with a very different
one of Beijing’s flagship brands. texture, but a delicious flavour, all the same.

The traditional method for making Peking In China, while the old stalwarts of
duck is exacting. First, the white ducks, reared Bianyifang and Quanjude rest on their
just outside the city, are fattened up. Once laurels as purveyors of ‘classic’ Peking duck,
slaughtered and plucked, a pump is used to they’ve largely been overtaken by more
drive air between the skin and flesh to create recent upstarts. In the early 2000s, a formerly
a taut, plump appearance once the duck is state-owned duck restaurant chain, newly
roasted. The innards are removed through a privatised, was renamed after its charismatic
slit under one wing, leaving intact the rest of and talented head chef, Dong Zhenxiang,
the skin, which is tightened with hot water known as Da Dong (‘Great Dong’) because
before the duck is wind-dried and painted with of his remarkable height. The Da Dong
maltose syrup to help colour it a rich mahogany. restaurants became a phenomenon, with their
Finally, a little boiling water is poured inside the glitzy design, inventive menus and fabulously
bird, which is roasted in the hot oven until the high prices, and Dong became China’s most
meat is juicy and the skin perfectly crisp. acclaimed celebrity chef. More recently, the
Siji Minfu duck restaurants have proved a hit
The duck is served in ritualistic fashion. A with a more affordable, Da Dong-esque style.
specialist duck-slicing knife (pianya dao), with
a long, thin, rectangular blade, is required to Some Chinese gourmets lament what
carve the bird into its different cuts: the prized they see as a decline in standards, accusing
pieces of skin, the ‘half-moon’ slices of meat various famous duck restaurants of passing
with skin attached, the head and the two strips off oven-roasted birds as those cooked in the
of meat that lie along the backbone. A skilled heat of traditional fruitwood fires. Yet, there’s
chef is said to be able to carve each duck into no doubt the roaring trade in Peking duck at a
more than 100 pieces. Normally, the skin is range of price points has brought this grand old
savoured first, perhaps with a sprinkle of sugar, dish, once available only to the elite, within the
followed by the meat with all the trimmings, reach of a wider section of society. A century
including not only a steamer’s-worth of and a half after the establishment of Quanjude,
Peking duck remains a Beijing classic.

1403 The Ming dynasty 1864 Quanjude roast duck 1970s Chinese premier

Yongle Emperor moves restaurant is founded in Zhou Enlai serves Peking
his capital to Beijing, and Beijing by Yang Quanren duck to visiting dignitaries,
the tradition of roast duck including Henry Kissinger
arrives with it and Richard Nixon

TIMELINE

1275 Roast duck is 1761 Imperial records show 1885 Bianyifang Roast

mentioned in Wu Zimu’s the Qianlong Emperor eats Duck restaurant is
depiction of life in roast duck eight times over founded in Beijing
13th-century Hangzhou the course of 13 spring days
(then known as Lin’an)

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@hermanoscolombiancoffee

DECONSTRUCT

Ken Hom’s Peking duck YOU’LL NEED Heat oven to 240C, 220C fan, gas 9. Place
A meat hook the duck breast-side up on a roasting rack
Preparing Peking duck is a time-consuming set in a roasting pan, then pour 150ml water
task, but this simplified method closely METHOD into the roasting pan (this will prevent the
approximates the real thing. Give yourself If the duck is frozen, thaw it thoroughly. fat from splattering). Roast for 15 mins, then
plenty of time and the results will be good turn the heat down to 180C, 160C fan, gas 4
enough for an emperor. Insert a meat hook near the neck. and roast for a further 1 hr 10 mins.
Use a sharp knife to cut the lemon into
SERVES: 4 - 6 TAKES: 2 HRS 15 MINS Meanwhile, prepare the spring onions.
PLUS AT LEAST 4 -5 HRS DRYING TIME 5mm slices, leaving the rind on. Add the Cut off the green tops and trim the bulb, so
lemon slices to a large pan with the rest of you have a white segment roughly 7.5cm
INGREDIENTS the honey syrup ingredients and 1.2 litres long. Make a 2.5cm lengthways cut at one
whole duck (around 1.6-1.8kg), fresh or frozen water. Bring the mixture to the boil, then end, then roll the spring onion 90 degrees
turn the heat to low and simmer for around and make another 2.5cm-long cut. Repeat
FOR THE LEMON HONEY SYRUP 20 mins. this process at the other end. Soak the
1 lemon spring onions in iced water for a few minutes
3 tbsp honey Use a large ladle or spoon to pour the until they curl into flower brushes, then pat
3 tbsp dark soy sauce mixture over the duck several times, as if to dry with kitchen paper or a clean tea towel.
150ml Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry bathe it, until the skin is completely coated.
Hang the duck over a tray or roasting pan Remove the duck from the oven and let it
TO SERVE and leave in a cool, well-ventilated place sit for at least 10 mins. Use a cleaver or sharp
24 spring onions to dry, for at least 4-5 hrs, and longer if knife to carve the duck, then arrange the
20 Chinese pancakes possible (set the duck in front of a fan, pieces on a warm serving platter. Serve with
6 tbsp hoisin sauce or sweet bean sauce if you like, to aid the process). When the the Chinese pancakes, spring onion brushes
duck has dried, the skin should feel like and hoisin sauce or sweet bean sauce.
parchment paper.

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WHERE TO EAT

The best places to try Peking duck and its close cousin,
crispy duck, in its homeland and here in the UK

DA DONG, moat of the Forbidden SHIJIU, BEIJING Iberico char siu pork, FOUR SEASONS IMAGE: ADRIAN HOUSTON
ACROSS CHINA City and offers splendid This restaurant offers the kitchen produces CHINESE RESTAUR ANT,
One of China’s top views. A few ovens stand classic northern Chinese one of London’s finest LONDON
chefs, Dong Zhenxiang, in the main dining room, so dishes with a modern Peking ducks, served with Because of the technical
spearheaded a revival you can watch the chefs at twist. After the whole handmade pancakes, which demands of making Peking
of Peking duck in the work. After they’re done, Peking duck is carved at have a faintly puckered duck, it’s costly and found
2000s. He uses a roasting the birds are then carved the table, the skin and surface and a more at few UK restaurants. For
technique that makes the tableside and served meat are briefly smoked interesting texture than a more accessible option,
duck crispier and less fatty with all the trimmings. over jasmine flowers, the mass-produced try Cantonese roast duck.
than the traditional version. 11 Nanchizi Dajie giving them a wonderfully versions. The duck must Its skin lacks the crispness
Aside from duck, Dong’s enticing aroma. Elsewhere be ordered in advance. of Peking duck, but it’s
known for innovative SHENG YONG XING, on the menu, expect imperialtreasure.com delicious dressed in spiced
fusion dishes such as zongzi BEIJING highlights such as hairtail gravy. Four Seasons, which
(parcels of glutinous rice) At the Michelin-starred fish with balsamic vinegar. MIN JIANG, LONDON has several branches (and
wrapped in prosciutto Chaoyang branch of this You’ll find Shijiu in the Atop Kensington’s Royal shouldn’t be confused
rather than the traditional restaurant, you can see east of the city, and like Garden Hotel, overlooking with the hotel chain), is a
giant bamboo leaves. The beautiful birds roasting in the food, the interior Hyde Park, Min Jiang London roast duck legend.
chain’s more than a dozen the huge ovens alongside design combines classical (pictured) serves its Peking fs-restaurants.co.uk
branches are lavishly the upstairs dining room. and contemporary. 61 duck in two rounds. The
designed, with hefty The crisp skin is presented Dongsanhuan Zhonglu first is the classic spread of Y U A LD E RLY E D G E ,
menus and prices to match. canape-style on bite- crisp skin with a white sugar CHESHIRE
dadongdadong.com sized pieces of steamed IMPERIAL TREASURE, dip and meat wrapped This smart establishment
bread, with a topping of LONDON in house-made pancakes is another great place to
SIJI MINFU, BEIJING caviar, before the meal This luxurious restaurant, with various garnishes. For try aromatic crispy duck,
This 16-strong chain offers proceeds in the traditional in a former bank building the second course, guests served Peking-style,
Peking duck and other manner, with pancakes and close to Trafalgar Square, choose from a menu that with all the trimmings, as
dishes that echo the style trimmings. Other dishes to is the London outpost of includes minced duck well as — in this case — a
of Da Dong, only at lower try include the duck feet a high-end Singaporean with a lettuce wrap, and hint of yuzu. The menu
prices. Expect long queues, in a mustard sauce, as well chain. Aside from superb duck-enhanced fried rice or also features Cantonese
especially at the branch as the Jiangnan classic, dim sum and Cantonese noodles. The duck should favourites such as dim sum
on Nanchizi Dajie, which squirrel fish in sweet and delicacies such as braised be ordered in advance. and sesame toast.
backs directly onto the sour sauce. 5 Xindong Road abalone and honey-glazed minjiang.co.uk yualderleyedge.co.uk

8 8 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/FOOD -TR AVEL

Fine Art and Wine from the heart of

Brunello di Montalcino

At Castello Romitorio, father-and-son team Sandro and Filippo Chia
produce world-class Brunello di Montalcino wines.

The site has taken on many forms over the years: it has served as a
temple, a monastery, a manor house and a shelter. Its second life began
in 1984, when it was bought by artist Sandro Chia as his home and art
studio. It soon became apparent that the building could only truly shine
VUJL TVYL PM P[Z HUJPLU[ Hѝ UP[` ^P[O ^PULNYV^PUN ^HZ HSZV YL]P]LK · HUK
so, in 2005, Sandro’s son, Filippo, took on the task, paving the way for

Castello Romitorio’s viticultural success.

www.castelloromitorio.com

Castello Romitorio, Loc. Romitorio 279, 53024 Montalcino, Italy
LQIR#FDVWHOORURPLWRULR FRP _ ,QVWDJUDP #ð OLSSRFDVWHOORURPLWRULR

BELOW THE

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AT FIRST GL ANCE, THE SPANI SH TOWN OF AR ANDA DE
DUERO LOOKS LIKE ANY OTHER. BUT BENE ATH IT AND ITS
SURROUNDINGS YOU’LL FIND UNDERGROUND WINERIES
SERVING REDS, WHITES AND TEMPTING LOCAL CUISINE

WORDS: JESSICA VINCENT. PHOTOGR APHS: BEN ROBERTS

S U R FAC E

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Afternoon sun bathes the Plaza Mayor in Aranda de Duero
Below, from left: five- and 15-litre bottles of wine at Bodegas Valduero;
rosado (a local take on rosé) is poured at El 51 Del Sol, Aranda de Duero

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Sara Garcia

Previous spread: historic bodegas
clustered on a hillside near Atauta

I f there’s a trick to eating chuletillas, announce a ‘menú del día’ of garlic soup and revealing a steep stone staircase snaking into
I haven’t learned it. I toss the sizzling salt cod. On the pastel-hued Plaza Mayor, the darkness. With the help of a twisted
lamb cutlet from one hand to the other, where the air smells of fire-roasted lamb and rope, we’d descended, pools of condensation
my skin turning pink from the hot fat brewing coffee, grey-haired men sip cortados soaking my toes with each treacherous step.
running down my fingers and onto my and families sit around wooden barrels Dust-covered light bulbs, clinging to the
palm. Unable to withstand the heat any laden with oily sheep’s cheese and cherry- mould-speckled ceiling like sleeping bats,
longer, I let the chop hit my plate and wave my red tempranillo. couldn’t compete with the thick, creeping
hands in defeat. darkness. With goosebumps spreading across
“You have to pick up the chuletilla from Yet, beneath Aranda de Duero’s carnicerías my arms, I felt my way down until, suddenly,
the two bony ends,” says my guide, Sara (butchers), panaderías (bakeries) and asadores the floor levelled out and the cloak of darkness
Garcia, plucking the meat from a heap of (grill houses) lies a different world. Deep began to lift.
burning vine wood as easily as if she were below the town centre is a five-mile network
picking grapes. Before making a second of hundreds of interconnected bodegas Subterranean tastings
attempt at the cutlet, I look around at the — medieval wineries that transformed
labyrinth of candle-lit stone passageways and Ribera del Duero into the respected wine In the belly of the bodega, my stomach full of
brick arches spreading out in every direction country it is today. While many of the town’s chuletillas, I run my hand along the crumbling
around us. bodegas are closed to the public, a handful sandstone walls, feeling the deep scars made
At street level, Aranda de Duero — the of entrepreneurial families and passionate long ago by pickaxes. “As you can see, our
capital of the Ribera del Duero wine region, winemakers are striving for change. bodegas were dug out entirely by hand,” says
which spans Castile and León’s Burgos, Sara, as we explore the winery’s deep, narrow
Segovia, Soria and Valladolid provinces Sara and I are eating chuletillas at Don vaults, where dust-covered bottles and wooden
— looks much like any other provincial Carlos, a 15th-century wine cellar 45ft barrels the size of plane engines are stored.
town in northern Spain. Queues form at below Calle del Trigo, one of the oldest and “Renovations have made this bodega safe for
clay-roofed butchers’ shops selling morcilla busiest streets in town. To get here, we’d visitors,” she adds. “But it remains much as it
(blood sausage) and chorizo; unassuming entered through an ordinary wine shop, was 600 years ago.”
bakeries display their flattened olive oil bread and before I’d had time to browse bottles
in the windows like trophies; and chalkboards of tempranillo, a native red variety that’s It’s in one of these vaults, at a long
the most widely grown in Ribera del Duero, wooden table lit by a chandelier, that I get
Sara had opened a door at the back of the shop, my first taste of Ribera del Duero wine.

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Sara opens a 2016 bottle of Lara O, Territorio someone who does. But they’re expensive to Bodega Tierra Aranda,
Luthier’s award-winning tempranillo. The maintain and people don’t know what to do some 15 metres below
pop of the cork reverberates on the scarred with them.” street level in Aranda
sandstone walls around us, and I slowly swirl de Duero
the violet-red liquid, releasing scents of forest For hundreds of years, the town’s
fruits and fresh wood into the bodega’s damp underground cellars, which were built Above, from left: Fernando
air. It’s the bittersweetness of red berries I with direct access to winemakers’ homes, Ortiz, owner of the Don
taste first, followed by the light smokiness of were used for every part of the winemaking Carlos bodega and co-
toasted leather. process, from crushing and pressing to owner of Territorio Luthier
decanting and ageing. “Despite our hot winery, samples a glass of
The next bottle, an oak-aged tempranillo summers and freezing winters, bodegas Lara O, one of Territorio
named Hispania, is opened by Fernando Ortiz, stay at around 12-13C throughout the year,” Luthier’s signature wines;
owner of the Don Carlos bodega and co-owner says Sara, between mouthfuls of mollejitas ancient vines, some more
of Territorio Luthier winery. The colour is a de lechazo (suckling lamb gizzards coated than 180 years old, supply
deeper red than Lara O, and its flavour fuller in breadcrumbs and deep-fried). “It was the grapes for the wine
and earthier, with notes of cinnamon and the perfect solution to making wine in the produced at the Bodega
black cherry. “Ribera del Duero wines are Middle Ages.” Dominio de Atauta
very much like the Ribera del Duero people,”
says Fernando, as I chase the Hispania with While Ribera del Duero’s winemaking
a slice of morcilla de Burgos, a heavenly history dates back at least as far as the Roman
blood sausage spiced with paprika, cloves period, underground wineries only began to
and thyme. “They’re serious and profound, appear in Aranda de Duero after Burgundian
and always improve over time.” monks increased wine production in the area
in the 12th century.
In 2000, Fernando and his family were
among the first in Aranda de Duero to offer The bodegas’ ability to maintain a
wine and food tastings in the winery beneath constant temperature, as well as their
their home. “There wasn’t much appreciation interconnectedness and their proximity to
for bodegas back then,” Fernando tells me, winemakers’ homes, allowed Ribera del Duero
as a plate of roasted red peppers and another to prosper as a winemaking area. By the 14th
glass of red — this time a blend of tempranillo, century, underground wineries had begun
merlot and grenache — appear in front of me. popping up across the region, and, in 1345,
“Most Arandinos [residents of Aranda] either production was so important to the local
have a bodega under their house or know economy that an ordinance was passed to
limit the entry of foreign wines.

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WINE TOURS

Ribera del Duero
Day Tour, Wine
Tourism Spain

This day trip offers
an introduction to
tempranillo wines
from Peñafiel, Roa de
Duero and Aranda de
Duero. You’ll explore
winemaking methods
at three wineries,
and learn to identify
aromas and flavours.
winetourismspain.
com

Classical Wines
Gourmet Tour,
Vintage Spain

This four-day tour
takes in wineries
across the Ribera
del Duero and Rioja
region. In the former,
you’ll visit wineries
in Burgos, Valladolid
and Segovia,
including Isamel
Arroyo, Pradorey
and Bodegas Briego,
followed by a tour of
Aranda del Duero’s
underground
wineries or the
fortress town of
Peñaranda. The trip
continues to Bilbao
and Segovia before
finishing in Madrid.
vintagespain.com

Individual
vineyard visits

Many vineyards
across the Ribera del
Duero region offer
guided tours for
both individuals and
groups, including
the historic Dominio
de Atauta. Located
3,200ft above sea
level, in the province
of Soria, it’s home
some of the region’s
oldest vines. Tours
last 2h30m, or 3h
when combined with
a cheese tasting.
dominiodeatauta.
com

Unforgettable gourmet experiences,
ripened in the Algarve

www.carobworld.com

S PA I N

Yet in the mid-20th century, as modern and pictures of men in black waistcoats holding What to eat
machinery evolved and Ribera del Duero saw wind instruments gather dust in glass cabinets.
the formation of wine cooperatives (groups of LECHAZO
vineyard owners making and selling wine in “This is our peña’s traje (costume),” says PDO-protected
bulk under one name in order to cut marketing Enrique, the man who let us in, pointing lechazo lamb also
and bottling costs), underground bodegas at a photo. “We wear it when we celebrate gives its name to
began to decline. “The grapes were collected our fiestas.” Aranda de Duero’s
and sent straight to the cooperatives,” says signature dish. The
Fernando, filling the room with pineapple Peñas, or wine clubs, have been operating leg is seasoned
and pomegranate with a swirl of his albillo, in a handful of the town’s bodegas since the with a touch of salt,
the only authorised white variety in Ribera early 1970s, towards the end of the Franco slow-roasted in a
del Duero. “Suddenly, there was little use for administration. “Peñas were born out of a need wood-fired oven and
underground bodegas. Some families used for somewhere private to drink cheap wine served sizzling in its
them to store wine, but most bodegas were left and talk freely,” says Enrique, who’s been a own juices. For the
to deteriorate.” member of the Tierra Aranda peña since 2008. best lechazo in town,
visit Casa Florencio.
Our subterranean tasting ends with a slice Over time, these underground wine
of torta de uva, a grape-filled pastry sold only clubs became more than just somewhere to CHULETILLAS
during the wine harvest, and a final glass of socialise and talk politics. “Many of Aranda’s Also made with
sweet merlot. We emerge back onto a sun- fiestas were disappearing [in the 1970s],” lechazo lamb,
drenched Calle del Trigo, and a man smiles Enrique says. “Our role as peñistas is to chuletillas are
from across the street, waving us over to a keep our bodegas from ruin, but also to keep small lamb chops
tiny wooden door. Sunk slightly below street Aranda’s cultural traditions alive.” He shows traditionally cooked
level, it’s decorated with two metal engravings: me another black and white photo, this one over vine wood. In
one of a man playing the flute and the other of of Tierra Aranda musicians performing a most of Aranda de
the words ‘Tierra Aranda’. pasodoble in the street that runs above us. Duero’s asadores,
they’ll come served
Moments later, I’m once again descending These days, Aranda de Duero’s eight on a mini grill, so you
a steep stone staircase, gripping a rope and remaining peñas are heavily involved can cook them at the
sidestepping puddles. Inside, the space is in organising the town’s yearly harvest table to your liking.
like Don Carlos, only bigger and grander: and various saint day festivals. As well
enormous banqueting tables run through as street parades and performances of MORCILLA DE
every arched vault, embroidered shields and charanga (traditional music played by peña BURGOS
coats of arms decorate cobweb-strewn walls members), the festival season also sees wine Spain has several
tastings and music rehearsals for non- varieties of blood
peñistas, held in the underground wineries. sausage, but perhaps
its most popular
is the one made in
the city of Burgos.
Morcilla de Burgos is
laced with buttery
onions, lard and rice,
then lightly spiced
with paprika and
black pepper. It’s
delicious pan-fried
and topped with
piquillo peppers.

TORTA DE
ARANDA
This flat, round bread
has been served in
Aranda de Duero
since the Middle
Ages. The best
loaves are crisp and
golden-brown on the
outside (achieved
with a drizzle of olive
oil and a sprinkling of
salt before baking),
but doughy inside.

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“Peñas have a membership system, but we want whose family spent almost 10 years and Above: Roberto ESSENTIALS
the bodega to be for everyone,” says Enrique. thousands of euros restoring these seven Aragon, owener
interconnected cellars in Quintana del Pidio, of the Domino GETTING THERE
When I ask why it’s important that peñas a winemaking village nine miles north of del Pidio bodega, Iberia, Ryanair and
continue to operate underground, despite Aranda de Duero. “We’ve found our wines age photographed EasyJet fly from the
the costs involved in maintaining them, very well underground,” he adds, passing me a outside his new UK to Madrid. From
he responds, “Like our fiestas, bodegas are fresh, fragrant 2014 crianza. project — a restoration there, it’s a 1h45m
part of our heritage — and we believe that’s of a labyrinthine drive to Aranda de
worth saving.” Dominio del Pidio currently only produces network of bodega Duero. There are also
around 50,000 bottles per year (considered a tunnels on the edge of four daily Alsa buses
Preserving history small number in Ribera del Duero), but Roberto Quintana del Pidio from Madrid. iberia.
and his family hope to increase production com ryanair.com
Another man who believes in Ribera del as more of the winery is restored, including Previous page: Chef easyjet.com alsa.es
Duero’s bodegas is wine producer Roberto the 16th-century wooden barrels, beam wine Juan Pablo RIncon
Aragón. Sara and I set off to see him, following presses and concrete vats. “People say we’ve removes a ‘lechazo’ WHERE TO STAY
the Douro River out of town, driving alongside returned to an ancient way of making wine, but from the oven at Casa El Lagar de Isilla
beetroot fields and dozens of stone chimneys I tell them it’s the future,” says Roberto. When I Florencio, one of winery in La Vid
sprouting from the grass like mushrooms. ask why he feels so passionate about a form of Aranda’s best spots offers wine-themed
“Those are zarceras; they keep the bodegas winemaking that many gave up on long ago, for enjoying the rooms. Doubles from
ventilated,” Sara explains. he replies, “Winemaking isn’t just about the regional delicacy €103 (£89), B&B.
product. It’s about the preservation of history.” lagarisilla.es
We arrive at Dominio del Pidio, Roberto’s
family winery on the outskirts of Aranda de Heading back to Aranda de Duero, past HOW TO DO IT
Duero. When he ushers us in, I expect to see vineyards dotted with crumbling chimneys Grape Escapes has
another staircase snaking down into darkness. that once puffed furiously with life, I three-day trips from
But what I find instead is a hub of activity: consider the fragility of Spain’s underground Madrid from £529
cement vats bubbling with fermenting grapes, bodegas — with ever-more practical methods per person, including
rubber tubes rattling with discarded pulp and available, will these expensive and hard-to- transport, B&B
bottles of cherry-red liquid, clinking as they’re maintain underground wineries stand the and winery visits.
transported 60ft below ground for storage. test of time? Later, as I sip a 2014 Dominio del grapeescapes.net
Pidio tempranillo, one of the first wines to be
Unlike the other bodegas I’ve visited in the produced underground in Ribera del Duero MORE INFO
area, Dominio Del Pidio is actually used for for several decades, I can’t help but have a rutadelvino
winemaking. “With climate change, producing little hope. riberadelduero.es
wine where the temperature is naturally stable spain.info
is becoming more important,” says Roberto,

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