2021-05-01 National Geographic Traveller Food

CITY BREAK

MEXICO CITY

From casual cantinas to smart seafood restaurants, the Mexican
capital is full of flavour, with a culinary heritage that draws on

influences including Aztec, Spanish and Lebanese

WORDS: MICHAELA TRIMBLE

One of Latin America’s great culinary capitals, Desu serves a variety of small plates and natural
Mexico City can trace its food origins back to the wines from both countries. Nearby Café del
ancient culture that once flourished here. In 1325, Fuego, meanwhile, is inspired by Japanese
when the Aztecs first settled on islands in Lake kissatens (tearooms). Over in the neighbouring
Texcoco, in the highlands of Central Mexico, their borough of Colonia Juárez, Masala y Maiz combines
diet was mainly plant-based, centred around the flavours of South Asia, East Africa and Mexico
frijoles (beans) and maíz (corn). The latter was to create dishes like fried chicken with cardamom-
so important it played a central role in the Aztec spiced sweet potato puree and corn esquites,
creation myth. Many other indigenous ingredients, drenched in fresh coconut milk, ginger and
including chia seeds and huaútli (amaranth), were turmeric and topped with cotija cheese.
banned after the Spanish arrived in the 1500s,
because of their use in religious ceremonies, The city’s traditional food culture is most visible
but were later revived, and can now still be seen in Centro Histórico, the cobbled downtown area
on menus throughout the city, from upscale where you’ll find the best taquerias and the most-
restaurants to fondas (small, family-run places). historic cantinas, plus all-day watering holes where
Yet, the Aztecs are far from the only people to have locals congregate for hours to play games or read
had an impact on Mexican cuisine. newspapers over chilled, bottled beers. Then there’s
Colonia Roma, where promising young chefs such
Today, cooking in the capital and beyond still as Rodney Cusic and Mercedes Bernal are opening
involves plenty of corn, but it also encompasses experimental fine dining establishments that both
an array of outside influences too. The Spanish elevate classic Mexican cuisine and pay homage to
brought with them eating habits such as consuming the nation’s indigenous roots.
meat and dairy, while Lebanese settlers, who first
arrived in the country en masse in the late 1800s, Although the pandemic has hit Mexico City’s
can be credited with introducing shawarma-style dining scene hard, it’s also inspired many leading
meat spits, which continue to be used across the chefs and restaurateurs to innovate. Recent Covid-
city to cook juicy pork for al pastor tacos. friendly options have included gourmet food
packages sold from takeaway hatches, as well as
Elsewhere, you’ll find chefs combining classic open-air dining events, such as pop-up meals in
Japanese cooking methods with Mexican the forests outside the city. The past year or so has
ingredients, particularly in the Cuauhtémoc been a challenge, but the Mexican capital won’t just
neighbourhood, where wine bar Le Tachinomi survive — it’s bound to thrive.

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IMAGE: GETTY Sunset at the Basilica
of Guadalupe, with Mexico

City’s skyline beyond

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MEXICO CITY

A DAY IN

CENTRO
HISTÓRICO

Built on the site of the former Aztec capital,
Centro Histórico is where Mexico’s ancient
ruins and Spanish colonial facades collide.
It’s easy to admire the area simply for
the architecture, but there’s more to it
than its looks, with cantinas, fine dining
establishments and museums to explore.
Start the day at El Cardenal, a restaurant 
that’s been dishing out classic Mexican
breakfasts since 1969. Whether you order
enchiladas smothered in green salsa, or an
egg omelette stuffed with escamoles
(ant larvae) or huauzontle (a herb), save room
for the signature pastry: a seashell-shaped
sweet bread called a concha, stuffed with
clotted cream.

Next, take in the historic sights. Marvel at
Palacio de Bellas Artes, a concert hall and
cultural centre decorated with murals by
Mexican artists including Diego Rivera and
David Alfaro Siqueiros, and Palacio de Correos
de México, a baroque post office opened in
1907, before heading to leafy Alameda Central,
the oldest public park in the Americas, where
locals gather on benches shaded by flowering
jacarandas to read and listen to local musicians.

Take a late lunch at Itacate del Mar, the
rooftop restaurant at boutique hotel Círculo
Mexicano. Helmed by chef Gabriela Cámara,
of revered seafood establishment Contramar,
this place offers elevated street food such
as soupy corn esquites with shrimp and
habanero mayonnaise, and fried calamari
tostadas topped with shitake mushrooms.
Afterwards, head to the rooftop for cocktails
and views of Centro Histórico’s most
prominent sights, from ornate Metropolitan
Cathedral, which dates from 1573, to the ruins
of Templo Mayor, once the main temple and
ceremonial site of Tenochitlan, the capital
of the Aztec Empire. Finish with a stop at
the original branch of Churrería El Moro, the
legendary home (now a chain with 11 locations)
of Mexico City’s most delicious churros. The
fried dough sticks are coated with cinnamon
sugar and served with a choice of dips:
chocolate, caramel or condensed milk.

TAQ U E R I A S Tacos Cocuyos El Vilsito

Pollo Bruto Queues snake around the corner at this late- At sundown, this mechanic’s shop in Narvarte
night Centro Histórico mainstay, a legendary turns into one of the city’s top taquerias for al
At this electric-yellow taco bar in Roma Sur, taquería known for staying open long after pastor, the taco style synonymous with Mexico
chef Emiliano Padilla serves flour tortillas with the bars and clubs close. Come for the city’s City that was first brought to the country by
rotisserie chicken prepared in one of three best suadero (brisket) and longaniza (sausage) Lebanese immigrants. Wait and watch as the
adobos (wet rubs), from citrus-based to one so tacos, which are best enjoyed with heaps of spit master scrapes off juicy cuts of pork, which
spicy it’s called ‘diablo’. Don’t miss the pirata, red chipotle salsa and habanero guacamole. are then served in a tortilla and topped with
a taco stuffed with chicken marinated in a instagram.com/tacoscocuyos pineapple. instagram.com/tacoselvilsito
charred, Yucatecan-style adobo, with a fried
cheese crust. instagram.com/pollobruto

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MEXICO CITY

A DAY IN

COLONIA ROMA

You can’t come to Mexico City without new green spaces, plazas and wide, tree-lined SEAFOOD
visiting hip Colonia Roma, south west of Parisian style boulevards. SPECIALISTS
Centro Histórico. Dating back to the late 19th
century, the district is host to art nouveau and Eventually, you’ll arrive at Meroma, a La Docena
neoclassical mansions and is the hub of the modern Mexican restaurant owned by husband-
city’s contemporary culinary scene. and-wife chef duo Rodney Cusic and Mercedes It’s a weekend tradition in
Bernal, regulars on Mexico’s ‘best chef’ lists. Mexico City to enjoy long
Start at Forte Bread & Coffee, an indoor- On the top-floor terrace, dine on small plates lunches at seafood restaurants
outdoor bakery serving coffee grown in such as fried baby artichokes in a bed of creamy such as upscale La Docena,
the jungles of Chiapas, a state in south east jocoque (a dip akin to Greek yoghurt) or foie gras in Polanco. Helmed by chef
Mexico, and the forests outside of the city of topped with kumquat marmalade and cacao Tomás Bermúdez, who led the
Puebla, around 60 miles from Mexico City. sourced from the eastern state of Veracruz. restaurant to a place on Latin
Espresso is served on ice and mixed with America’s 50 Best Restaurants
tascalate, a clay-coloured prehispanic drink Continue around the corner to Plaza Río de list in 2019, this oyster-focused
that combines axiote seeds, roasted corn, Janeiro, one of the liveliest green spaces in the establishment offers some of
cacao beans, cinnamon and organic cane neighbourhood, which has a bronze replica the city’s best seafood plates.
sugar. Pair it with a freshly baked cacao- or of the statue of David at its centre. Bask in the These include ceviche-style
coffee-flavoured concha (a classic Mexican afternoon light before stopping at Bottega, a spicy aguachile tatemado
pastry) and enjoy it in Plaza Luis Cabrera, bar serving natural wines from both Mexico with shrimp, served with a
a lively park where locals flock to walk their and Europe. Round off the evening at Emilia, side of crispy corn tostadas.
dogs around the central fountain. which has one of the country’s most promising ladocena.com.mx
young chefs at the helm. Here, Lucho
Continue down Calle Orizaba, an area Martínez prepares Japanese-style cuisine Campo Baja
with numerous boutiques and buildings like using Mexican ingredients. Dishes include
Edificio Balmori, an example of the eclectic, sashimi of kampachi, a local fish, marinated in The picnic-style tables of this
French-style architecture that sprang up in fermented passion fruit juice and chia seeds, restaurant in Roma Norte make
Colonia Roma in the early 1900s. It was part and aged duck with a yuzu kosho sauce with for a relaxed atmosphere in
of a city expansion plan that also included habanero chillies. which to enjoy tuna tostadas
with guacamole and crema,
IMAGES: CHURRERIA EL MORO; ALAMY; DIEGO PADILLA MAGALLANES @DIEGOPADILLAMA; GETTY Fish dish at Emilia, which creates washed down with a michelada
Japanese-style cuisine using (beer with lime juice, served
Mexican ingredients in a salt-rimmed glass). Once
you’ve eaten, head to the
Opposite from top: Legendary ground floor, where the party
churro restaurant Churrería El continues in the open-air,
Moro; concert hall and culture French-style petanque arena.
centre Palacio de Bellas Artes campobaja.com

Don Vergas

Once one of the most popular
market stalls in Mercado de San
Juan, Don Vergas transferred
to a laid-back, cantina-style
bricks-and-mortar spot in
Cuauhtémoc. The menu is
inspired by dishes from chef
Luis Valle’s childhood on the
Pacific Coast. Standouts include
marlin burritos and callo de
hacha — buttery, ceviche-
style scallops. instagram.com/
donvergasmariscos

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Bar La Ópera, where a bullet
hole left by revolutionary leader

Pancho Villa’s gun is still visible

SPOTLIGHT

CANTINAS

Although its origins can be traced back to the Pancho Villa fired his gun (you can still see the bullet ESSENTIALS
train station bars of Spain, there’s nothing more hole in the wood ceiling).
quintessentially Mexican than the cantina. These GETTING THERE
all-day bar- and cafe-style hangouts attract diners of Nearby is Salón Tenampa, beloved for its proximity BA flies direct
all ages and are beloved by the masses for their old- to Plaza Garibaldi, where mariachi bands play until to Mexico City
school botanas (bar snacks) and generous measures of the early hours. Further afield, in Doctores, is Spanish- from Heathrow.
beer and various agave-based spirits. style El Sella, known for its chorizo in cider. Meanwhile, Lufthansa, Virgin
at Covadonga, in Colonia Roma, locals can often be Atlantic and United
Most locals will have a favourite neighbourhood spotted enjoying bread smothered in manchego cheese Airlines offer
establishment, as well as those they wouldn’t think while playing dominoes. indirect services
twice about schlepping across town to visit. The most- from the UK.
storied cantinas can be found in Centro Histórico, where The popularity of the cantina shows no sign of ba.com lufthansa.
these bars first sprang up. They include El Gallo de Oro, waning, either, as contemporary versions are opening com united.com
which has been going since 1874, and Bar La Ópera, all over the city, including La Riviera del Sur, in Colonia
famed as the place where Mexican revolutionary leader Roma, known for its Yucatecan tacos, from cochinita WHERE TO STAY
pibil (pork shoulder) to lechón (pork belly). Circulo Mexicano
has doubles from
MARKETS $3,850 pesos (£134).
circulomexicano.
Mercado de Jamaica La Merced Central de Abasto com IMAGE: GETTY

This market is known for having the On the outskirts of Centro About an hour from the city centre, HOW TO DO IT
best selection of flowers in the city, Histórico, pick up a takeaway this is one of the largest markets in Modern Adventure
especially during Day of the Dead cup of tepache — a fermented the world, where many chefs come has a four-night,
festivities in October. But it also has pineapple-peel drink akin to to buy their ingredients, from fresh chef-led Mexico
the tastiest green chorizo tacos; ask kombucha — before hitting the seafood to whole hogs. Explore City group trip
around to find the unmarked stand, stalls to sample some of the edible solo, or try a tour with Devoured! or from $3,000
which insiders know as Las Más insects, from grasshoppers to Eat Like a Local. devoured.com.mx (£2,184), excluding
Altas Montañas. maguey worms. eatlikealocal.com.mx flights. modern
adventure.com

MORE INFO
visitmexico.com

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PAID CONTENT FOR TORRE A CONA

A WINE-LOVER’S WEEKEND GUIDE TO THE

FLORENTINE HILLS

Rich in history and steeped in tradition, the Tuscan hills surrounding Florence are a powerhouse
of wine production. Discover the area’s gastronomic and cultural highlights

The popular red wine, Chianti Colli Fiorentini takes its name from the region where it’s
produced — where the sun-kissed hills dotted with hamlets, stone farmhouses and forests
paint a picture of Tuscany at its finest. To savour an authentic way of life in this setting,
stay at Torre a Cona. This wine estate has a striking, 18th-century villa at its heart
— restored by the local Rossi di Montelera family — which overlooks ancient vineyards
and olive groves, the source of award-winning wines and fine olive oil. With new rooms
and its first restaurant opening later this spring, it’s the perfect base for a weekend trip.

DAY ONE DAY TWO

With Florence a 30-minute drive away, Join a professional truffle-hunter and
spend the day exploring this cultural capital. their dog for a walk around Torre a Cona’s
Get your bearings at Piazza della Signoria, private park in search of the prized funghi.
a key site during the Florentine Republic. Afterwards, enjoy the fruits of your labour
It’s also a gateway to the world-renowned with a truffle appetiser, paired with a
Uffizi Gallery, which guards a priceless selection of fine wines.
collection of Renaissance works. Starting to
feel peckish? Have a bite at Mercato Centrale, Next up, rent a car and head to the serene
and from there it’s a five-minute walk to Vallombrosa area — a national reserve — to
the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore: its explore 11th-century Vallombrosa Abbey
pink, green and white marble facade is a and its museum, which displays religious
visual spectacle, while its red-tiled cupola paintings, vestments and manuscripts.
dominates the city’s skyline. Make time to The complex is set on the edge of a forest
visit the medieval Ponte Vecchio, too. originally planted by monks that’s perfect for
hikes and picnics.
Head back to Torre a Cona for a guided
tour of the estate’s archive, which tells the Finish the weekend back at Torre a Cona
history of the villa and the families who’ve with a tour of the vineyards and cellars,
lived there. Dine at Osteria Torre a Cona, sampling varieties including Chianti,
feasting on traditional Tuscan dishes made Toscana Rosso and Vinsanto in the tasting
from seasonal local ingredients. room. Don’t forget to purchase a few bottles
from the wine shop, set in a converted barn.

IMAGES: ANDREA VIERUCCI Torre a Cona’s 18th-century villa Essentials

Right: the restored guest rooms CityJet, British Airways and
still feature original details, Vueling are among the airlines
including terracotta floor tiles offering flights from the UK to
Florence. From the airport, it’s a
40-minute drive to Torre a Cona.
The estate has a restaurant and
a pool and offers various onsite
activities, from cookery classes to
honey-tasting and horse-riding.
Guests can choose between 25
guest rooms and four farmhouses
(one of which can be subdivided
into four apartments).

To find out more, visit torreacona.com

A TASTE OF

FLORIDA KEYS

Stretching from the southern tip of Florida almost as far as Cuba, this US
archipelago is the place to go for fresh fish, potent rum and, of course, Key limes

WORDS: DAVID FARLEY

LIONFISH ENCOUNTERS it’s rare for restaurants to serve it; Castaway is “It’s possible that what became Key lime pie IMAGES: GETTY; IVANA LARROSA; 4CORNERS
C A STAWAY WATERFRO NT one of the few that does. was created by sponge divers and fishermen
RESTAUR ANT & SUSHI BAR while out at sea,” says David Sloan, author of
After half an hour, John emerges from the The Key West Key Lime Pie Cookbook, who’s
When I meet John Mirabella, it soon becomes water with three lionfish, each around 40cm joined me at the hotel. “The lime, for example,
abundantly clear he has two passions: scuba long, with spiky dorsal fins that look quasi helped prevent scurvy, and the condensed milk
diving and catching lionfish — which is lucky, prehistoric. “There weren’t as many down would preserve for a long time.”
because the two go hand in hand. there as there used to be,” he says, stripping off
his wetsuit. “We’ve definitely made progress, There’s evidence of something called
Indigenous to the South Pacific and but it seems lionfish are here to stay.” ‘spongers pie’ in the late 19th century, which
Indian Oceans, lionfish are considered an involved the divers dipping Cuban bread into
invasive species here. It’s unclear how they Back at Castaway, a cosy, wood-panelled mugs of sweetened condensed milk, Key lime
anchored themselves in the Caribbean, but space, I’m served today’s catch, in the juice and bird’s eggs, creating a crude version
one theory is that they escaped from a Miami form of the King of the Jungle sushi roll, of the dessert we know today. But the pie was
aquarium in the mid 1980s during a flood an assemblage of raw lionfish, asparagus also accredited around the same time to one
caused by a hurricane. Whatever the case, and avocado, encrusted with fish roe. The Aunt Sally, who, according to David, was a
these maroon-and-white-striped fish, with fried head of the fish sits at one end to evoke woman named Sarah Curry, part of a well-
their spiky, poisonous spiny dorsal fins, have an image of the once-living sea creature. to-do local family. His theory is that the pie’s
since established themselves as kings of this The rolls may look a little weird, but they origins encompass both stories.
underwater jungle, altering an ecosystem in taste delicious, with a moist, buttery flavour
which they have no natural predators. They not unlike that of lobster. I immediately wish Regardless of how it came about, Key lime
also can’t be lured by hooked bait, which we could go out diving the next day for more. pie has become ubiquitous throughout the
means they have to be speared. This, I think, as I pick up a piece of sushi with Florida Keys. The most common version is the
my chopsticks, is how you try to wipe out an classic — containing all the same elements
John, who has a hardy, jovial vibe about invasive species. as Aunt Sally’s — but as I travel around,
him, cares deeply about the local marine I spot deep-fried, French toast and ice cream
ecosystem and is dedicated to trying to LOCAL TREASURE varieties too.
eradicate lionfish. He believes the best way to THE KEY WEST KEY LIME PIE
do that is to catch, cook and feed them to his COMPANY David and I wander over to the nearby
guests at his restaurant, Castaway Waterfront Key West Key Lime Pie Company, one of his
Restaurant & Sushi Bar, on Marathon Key. No one is exactly sure when or where the favourite places for a slice, where the chefs can
Keys’ preeminent pudding was created, but be viewed producing pies in the open kitchen.
“I don’t kill things that I don’t eat, so I had many signs point to the Curry Mansion Inn Unusually, they don’t add egg to their recipe.
no choice but to start eating it,” he says, as in Key West. It was here, at what’s now an “It’s probably easier,” says Sloan. “Without
he’s just about to plunge himself into the Yves antique-crammed hotel in the centre of Key egg, they don’t have to bake it.” We order
Klein Blue waters, a few miles off the coast of West, that a mysterious figure named ‘Aunt a traditional slice and a chocolate-dipped
Islamorada (a mid-archipelago island, and Sally’ apparently put pie crust, sweetened slice. I take a bite of the classic slice, and the
one of few that doesn’t have ‘Key’ in its name). condensed milk, eggs and lime juice together. refreshing, tart flavour imbues my palate. Egg
Because catching lionfish takes some effort, or no egg, this is a definite taste of Key West.

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Duval Street; Clockwise from top: Smathers
Beach; Truman Avenue with Key West
Lighthouse beyond; seafood including
coch fritters at Mangoes restaurant

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Join them for an exclusive food course this Autumn in
the hills of the Casentino National Park.

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A dusty white track meanders up through the
clustered hills of Gello. Passing the crisp and

glistening pools of the Corsalone waterfalls, wild herb
blanketed meadows, and fruit tree laden terraced

gardens. As you reach the top you will find Novanta,
and moreover, its food academy. The place where

history, nature & mouthwatering innovation combine.

Think ancient woodland truffle hunting, all things meat
on the neighbour's organic farm, and foraging in the
private valley with the Novanta chefs. End the day
sipping your way through a few Super Tuscans and
contemplating the view.
If you are looking for honest local ingredients, intimate
courses and an unforgettable, wild & immersive
experience ... you've found the right spot.

ÁÇñÁá


borgo di gello - Bibbiena - Tuscany
www.novanta90.com