Wonders of the Natural World

The Vikos Gorge is one of
the deepest in Europe

. GREECE . Europe
National Park

. Highlights .
Hike through the stunning Vikos Gorge
Watch the sun set over Mount Tymfi
Kayak rushing blue waters of Voidomatis River

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY A public bus links Ioannina with a select

few villages, such as Monodendri, near Vikos
STAY HERE The Aristi Mountain Resort is built in the
local style, and has considerably reduced its waste

EXPLORE WITH No Footprint includes Vikos on
its hiking holidays

. Best time to visit .
May or September, for fair weather and less crowds

. Useful websites .
VIKOSAOOSGEOPARK.COM

ARISTI.EU
ECOTOURISM-GREECE.COM

VIKOS-AOOS

Come face to face with wild brown bears in this gorgeous Greek setting

N estled among the Epirus mountains, ecosystem has been able to thrive there. Rare as beautiful monasteries on its banks that date
almost bordering Albania, is Greece’s flowers and plants bloom in ancient soil, while back centuries.
Vikos-Aoös National Park. It’s a real endangered animal populations hold onto life
hidden gem, and a far cry from the busy beaches within the safety of the park. As well as brown Between the two rivers sits the
and crowded cities one might expect to find in bears, you may be lucky enough to see wildcats, aforementioned Mount Tymfi, one of the peaks in
other parts of Greece. lynxes and a whole host of uncommon birds and the Pindus range. It can be hiked in the summer
reptiles hiding in Vikos-Aoös. months, and it offers amazing views of the park
The dramatic scenery to be enjoyed within the from all angles. The mountain is also home to a
park includes snow-capped mountains, jaw- The Vikos Gorge is the park’s centrepiece, and handful of the world’s deepest vertical caves –
dropping ravines, verdant forests and rushing at around 900 metres (2,952 feet) deep, it’s some of which are yet to be explored.
rivers. But among the trees and by the rivers, a spectacular sight. Shaded by Mount Tymfi,
you’ll find something even more unique – one of waterfalls cascade down its limestone cliffs and Vikos-Aoös National Park may not be well-
the only remaining wild brown bear populations into the Voidomatis River, which runs through the known to international tourists, but Greeks are
in Europe. gorge’s heart. The Voidomatis ultimately flows seeing its potential. Slowly but surely, ecotourism
into the Aoös River, an important artery for this is being encouraged within the park, attracting
Epirus is historically known for its wilderness region. If you’re interested in history, you’ll also responsible visitors and investment, without
and its thieving bandits, so the area around have the chance to see a number of picturesque risking its precious ecosystem. There’s never
Vikos-Aoös has never been a hub for human Ottoman-era bridges that cross the river, as well been a better time to discover this untapped
settlement. As a result, a wonderful and healthy natural world.

51

. TENERIFE, SPAIN . Marvel at the rocky landscape
Volcano of Tenerife as you trek to the top

. Highlights . of Europe’s highest volcano
Climb to the summit of Mount Teide
View centuries-old lava flows and craters
See the legendary trees and forests of Vilaflor

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY A bus runs from the resort Costa Adeje and

the capital, Santa Cruz de Tenerife
STAY HERE Finca El Picacho, a boutique collection of

traditional Canarian houses with a rural feel
EXPLORE WITH Teide by Night offers fabulous tours
that include a meal at one of Spain’s highest restaurants

. Best time to visit .
The Canaries are a year-round destination, but winter

Teide visits can be beset by poor weather

. Useful websites .
TEIDE.GUIDE

VOLCANOTEIDE.COM
TEIDEBYNIGHT.COM

Europe

TEIDE

Get a panoramic view of the Canary Islands from one of the world’s largest volcanoes

W hile some national parks boast peak was used as a navigation point by European Canary Islands, with Gran Canaria, La Palma,
stunning flora and fauna, others sailors on their southbound journeys through the La Gomera and even as far as El Hierro all
sparkling blue lakes, few can match Atlantic Ocean. visible on a clear day.
the breathtaking majesty of one of nature’s
most spectacular and destructive forces: the You are able to climb to the summit of Mount Mount Teide is clearly the pièce de
volcano. However, a volcano is the centrepiece Teide, with the full guided walk taking around six résistance of Teide National Park, but also
of Teide National Park in Tenerife, the largest of hours to complete. But if you aren’t that keen allow time for the quaint town of Vilaflor,
the volcanic Canary Islands off the northwestern on a full day of trekking, you can take a cable car surrounded by gorgeous mountainous
coast of Africa. to the base of the summit. From there you can scenery, while there is also accommodation
continue the 650-metre (2,130-foot) walk to the within the park.
It isn’t just any volcano, though – Teide is the mouth of the crater, but you will need a permit for
third largest in the world, behind Mauna Kea and this section as limited numbers are allowed to the Teide National Park, a UNESCO World
Mauna Loa in Hawaii. The volcano soars 3,718 top each day. Heritage site, is the oldest and largest of the
metres (12,198 feet) above sea level, but from the Canary Islands’ four national parks and is
sea floor it measures a whopping total of 7,500 While it may be a fair old journey, the views well worth a visit to understand the true force
metres (24,600 feet). Its distinctive looming from the very top are simply staggering. From of nature that created the very land you’re
there, you can gaze upon most of the other standing on.

52

GEYSIR AND STROKKUR

The OG geyser – and its heir apparent

I n the 13th century, tucked away in the The breathtaking
mouth of the picturesque Haukadalur Strokkur erupts
valley in southern Iceland, a series of
earthquakes reformed the landscape and every few minutes
awakened explosive activity in a series of hot
springs, drawing attention for the first time in Europe
the four centuries people had inhabited this
elemental island in the North Atlantic. The most . ICELAND .
Geyser
impressive among the springs periodically
spouted plumes of boiling hot water dozens . Highlights .
of metres into the air, and eventually became Strokkur, erupting every 6-12 minutes,
known as Geysir, derived from the Icelandic
word for “gush”. Over the next few centuries, it up to 20m (65ft) high
attained scientific fame to the extent that the Geysir is mostly dormant now, but
English word ‘geyser’ is derived from it.
still an impressive hot spring
Interestingly, research has revealed the A few miles further up the road is Gullfoss Waterfall
hot-springs area to have been active for about
10,000 years, although Geysir’s age is more . Ecotourism .
hard to gauge. It may have been formed in the TRAVEL BY Electric hire car, most hire companies
1294 earthquakes, although it could also have provide them now, shop around for competitive pricing
been laying dormant, with silica build-up in its
channels blocking it before earthquake activity STAY HERE Frost & Fire Boutique Hotel, a sustainable
shook them open again. hotel nestled in the hills of another stunning
geothermal area in nearby town Hveragerði
Indeed, earthquakes still greatly affect the
entire area’s activity and plume frequency EXPLORE WITH HI Iceland (Hostelling International)
today. In the 1990s Geysir had become offers an eco-friendly tour of the Golden Circle with
largely dormant again before a 6.5 magnitude
earthquake in 2000 revived it with impressive visits to a sustainable farm and restaurant
effect, leading it to spout plumes of up to
50 metres (165 feet) at frequent intervals, . Best time to visit .
sometimes several times a day. Today, however, Winter has fewer tourists, and Strokkur’s eruptions look
silica build-up has slowed it down again, often
keeping it dormant for weeks or months at a even more impressive framed by frost and snow
time. Enter its heir apparent, Strokkur.
. Useful websites .
Located only a few dozen metres downhill
from Geysir, the smaller hot spring Strokkur ICELANDTRAVEL.IS
(Icelandic for “churn”) has been known to GUIDETOICELAND.IS
erupt since at least the late-18th century, and
after locals cleaned out its blocked channel HOTELGEYSIR.IS
conduit in 1963, it has erupted consistently and
regularly since. Erupting every six to 12 minutes,
with plumes at least 15 to 20 metres (50 to 65
feet) high, it is one of Iceland’s most unique –
and popular – tourist attractions.

One of only a small number of geysers in
the world to erupt with near-metronomic
regularity, Strokkur has sparked the building
of a local hotel, at least two restaurants and
a gigantic merchandise shop across the road
from where it’s located, with a dedicated and
well-maintained walking path playing host to
hundreds of visitors every single day.

An entrance fee hasn’t been in effect since a
disastrous one-year attempt by Lord Craigavon
to enforce one in 1894, and since 1935 Geysir
and Strokkur have belonged to the Icelandic
nation after the local landowner donated the
area to them in perpetuity.

53

THINGVELLIR

Iceland’s wild nature and rich history come together where two continents meet

T hingvellir is not only Iceland’s oldest countries, it did so without any bloodshed, and is Iceland’s largest natural lake at 84 square
national park; it’s also at the centre of its today Thingvellir is considered to be a religious kilometres (32 square miles).
vivid history, ranging all the way back to home for both faiths, which live in harmony with
930 CE. At the foot of the Almannagjá, a path each other in the country to this day. In one of the many fissures you’ll find Silfra,
between two jagged cliff faces, the country’s – filled with crystal clear water. Silfra has become
and the world’s – first democratic parliament The park itself is a natural marvel, where the a popular location for divers and snorkelers – so
sat for the first time in the summer of 930, less aforementioned Almannagjá offers visitors the popular, in fact, that visitor numbers at it are now
opportunity to walk inside the rift between two limited to ensure safety, meaning you’ll have to
than 60 years after the Norse discovered this tectonic plates, the Eurasian and North American pre-book before taking a dip there.
large island in the middle of the North Atlantic. ones. Iceland marks one of only a few spots on
Even after the Old Pact of 1262, where Norway the globe where Mid-Atlantic ridge, the longest Due to its cultural significance, a national park
assumed control of Iceland, Althingi continued mountain ridge on Earth, emerges from the was founded in 1930 to protect its nature and
to convene every year until the end of the 18th Atlantic Ocean, and here in Thingvellir it takes preserve its rich history. In 2004, Thingvellir was
century. When Althingi was restored in 1844, on an impressive form, as a sharp cliff juts designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and
its venue was moved to the country’s capital, dramatically out of the low hills and surrounding is one of the country’s most popular tourist
Reykjavik, 45 kilometres (28 miles) away. shrubbery before continuing on into the hard- destinations. It forms part of the Golden Circle
to-reach Icelandic highlands to the north. The route. Concerns have been raised about the
Thingvellir has religious significance for river Öxará flows over the cliff via the beautiful volume of tourists and their effect on the park’s
Icelanders too, as it was here where Iceland Öxarárfoss waterfall, which flows through delicate nature, but in recent years, investment in
formally switched from Nordic Paganism to Almannagjá and into Thingvallavatn, which paths, platforms and non-destructive access to
Christianity in 1000 CE. Unlike most neighbouring the park have done much to allay those fears.

Europe . ICELAND . Gulfoss, easily Iceland’s most
Tectonic Fault famous waterfall, plunges in two
stages at an angle to each other
. Highlights .

Walk between tectonic plates in
Almannagjá to Lögberg, the site of Althingi

Explore the beautiful clear water in Silfra
Take in the stunning surroundings from

atop Almannagjá

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY There’s no public transport, but Thingvellir
will be included on all Golden Circle tourist itineraries

STAY HERE Ion Adventure Hotel is an award-winning
property that makes use of Iceland’s geothermal
energy and organic produce

EXPLORE WITH Reykjavik Excursions does a tour of the
Golden Circle with a sustainable twist

. Best time to visit .
May-September, so the roads will be open

. Useful websites .

THINGVELLIR.IS/EN
GUIDETOICELAND.IS
WHC.UNESCO.ORG/EN/LIST/1152/

54

. CROATIA . Europe
Lakes & Waterfalls
Plitvice contains 16
. Highlights . lakes and over 90

Take in the scenery as you hike along different waterfalls
any of the eight available trails
Go horseback riding in the Plitvice
valleys to the north
Visit in autumn to witness
stunning leaf colour displays

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Plenty of coaches run from Zagreb

STAY HERE Lyra Hotel is a brand new eco complex that
employs both Croatian and Bosnian workers: a step
towards healing the wounds of war

EXPLORE WITH Natural has both winter and summer
day trips to Plitvice

. Best time to visit .
Naturally vistas change seasonally, July

and August are peak months

. Useful websites .

NP-PLITVICKA-JEZERA.HR/EN
VISIT-CROATIA.CO.UK

WHC.UNESCO.ORG/EN/LIST/98

PLITVICE LAKES

The gathering of waters at the Plitvice Lakes of Croatia offers breathtaking beauty

T he most popular tourist attraction in allows time to contemplate the natural setting or legendary Veliki Slap, which descends 70 metres
Croatia is the natural phenomenon of snap photographs of stunning vistas. (230 feet) to the crystal, cerulean pool below.
Plitvice Lakes, a wonder of waters where For those who simply wish to sit and immerse
16 lakes come together in stunning beauty. The For those on a tight schedule, the Plitvice themselves in the moment, or take a leisurely
Lakes are worth the investment of a full stroll and enjoy the natural beauty, several rest
Lakes, just 130 kilometres (81 miles) southwest day; however, many visitors choose to stay areas are readily available.
of the Croatian capital city of Zagreb, are the overnight and spend a bit more time exploring
main attractions in the Plitvice Lakes National the lakes, waterfalls and hidden wonders. Be A small train and several ferries operate daily
Park, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site aware that crowds are common and trails may within the confines of the park, transporting
in 1979. be congested at times. Still, for those with an visitors throughout. A four-hour guided tour,
adventurous spirit, the possibilities for discovery available in English, German, Spanish, French,
The national park covers 300 square are endless. Italian and Croatian, may be booked ahead for a
kilometres (116 square miles), and includes minimum of 15 people.
shimmering turquoise waters with abundant Two entrances allow access to the park, one
flora and fauna. Cascading waterfalls connect the for the lower lakes and another for the higher The park is open daily and offers extended
lakes in a resounding chorus, and invite visitors lakes, which converge over a distance of eight hours during the summer months, typically
to linger and observe the sheer beauty of nature, kilometres (five miles). Wear comfortable shoes between 7am and 8pm local time. Admission
where water has flowed for millions of years, and take water, lunch or snacks to save time – for adults is around £6.50 ($9), although prices
creating a pristine marvel. Varied species of and be prepared for a dramatic shift in altitude. do vary with the busy season, increasing from
wildlife, including bears, birds, boars, wolves and The highest point in the park reaches 1,280 April to October. Admission is cheaper for
deer, are also regular visitors to the life-sustaining metres (4,200 feet), while the lowest point is 380 children, and those under the age of seven are
waters. Hiking the trails throughout the park metres (1,247 feet). The largest waterfall is the admitted free of charge.

55

Dorset’s Durdle Door attracts
thousands of visitors each summer,

so be prepared for crowds

Europe . ENGLAND, UK .
Coastline

. Highlights .
Try fossil hunting are the beaches between

Charmouth and Lyme Regis
Swim in the crystal clear waters of Man O’War Bay
Enjoy scones, jam and cream in one of the Jurassic Coast’s
quait seafront tea rooms; or end your hike at a pub

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY A bus runs from the towns of Poole and
Weymouth to Durdle Door in the summer months

STAY HERE Durdle Door Holiday Park is improving its eco-
credentials, including an on-site Recycling Ambassador

EXPLORE WITH Contours.co.uk offers a hiking tour of the
Dorset and South Devon sections of the South West Coast Path

. Best time to visit .
Weather in England is famously unpredictable, but you can

beat much of the crowds in May and September

. Useful websites .
JURASSICCOAST.ORG
VISIT-DORSET.COM
CONTOURS.CO.UK/SWCP-DORSET

JURASSIC COAST

Discover geological wonders, stunning beaches and top views along England’s only natural World Heritage Site

The Jurassic Coast, which spans 153 which is ideal if you want to hike a section of the Outdoor wonders aside, there are more
kilometres (95 miles) in total, is an awe- South West Coast Path and then travel out or than 15 museums across the Jurassic Coast
inspiring stretch of coastline in southern back by bus. area. One of the best – both for families and rock
England. The site starts in Exmouth in the fanatics – is the Lyme Regis Museum, which
county of East Devon and ends in Studland Bay While the Jurassic Coast is a scenic landscape, has a stunning seafront location and fantastic
it is more famous (and globally important as a views over Lyme Bay. The museum offers a newly
in Dorset, and features quaint towns, beaches, World Heritage Site) for its geology, home to updated learning centre, an interactive geology
strenuous cliff-top walks (or easy strolls) and rocks that offer an almost-complete record of gallery, and regular fossil-hunting walks.
many geological features along the way. It’s a the Triassic, Jurassic and Cretaceous periods
paradise for walkers, cyclists and naturalists, in Earth’s history. The sea has eroded the The town of Lyme Regis itself is arguably one
as well as families. Must-see natural wonders cliff rocks over millions of years to create the of the most popular parts of the Jurassic Coast,
include Durdle Door, Golden Cap and Old Harry rugged landscape visible today, leaving behind with a traditional selection of seaside shops,
Rocks, as well as Chesil Beach – a 29-kilometre- fossils of extinct creatures along it. You’ll see cafes and a beach that gives way to fossil hunting
long (18-mile-long) shingle barrier beach the prehistoric past for yourself as you glimpse when the tide recedes.
stretching from West Bay to Portland. ancient ammonites embedded into the stone.
The Jurassic Coast has so much to offer,
Despite being a rugged landscape, the Jurassic Beach days can be had in West Bay, Lyme whether you’re interested in expansive views
Coast can be accessed without a car. A ‘Jurassic Regis and Seatown, to name just a few resorts. and fresh air, or geology and history. Invest in a
Coaster’ bus service runs regularly to popular However, always check the tide times, and detailed map, or look for free mini-guides created
stops, such as Charmouth and Lyme Regis, whether dogs are allowed at the time of your visit. by the Jurassic Coast Trust.

56

THE GIANT’S CAUSEWAY

Northern Ireland’s mystical attraction boasts views across to Scotland

A s the sun rises over Northern Ireland, the . NORTHERN IRELAND .
view from one area of the north coast is Rock Formation
nothing short of stunning. With the rays
bouncing off the Atlantic Ocean, standing on one . Highlights .
of the three outcrops of volcanic rock, frozen in Scrabble about on these beautifully geometric rocks
perfect hexagonal columns, it seems as though Take a long exposure photo of the waves washing against
time itself has stopped. With just the sound of the
water lapping at the shore, it’s more tranquil than the basalt columns
anything you could possibly imagine. It could be Immerse yourself in both geography and local folklore in
the setting of a myth – and, in fact, it is.
the on-site visitor centre
Legend has it that the Causeway was created
by giant Finn McCool as he threw rocks into the . Ecotourism .
water to cross to Scotland and teach another TRAVEL BY The Giant’s Causeway is on the National Cycle
giant, Benandonner, a lesson. Things didn’t
exactly go Finn’s way, and as he scarpered back Network, but buses to nearby towns are available too
to Ireland, he destroyed some of the rocks so that
Benandonner couldn’t follow him. However, the STAY HERE Get the experience of camping without the
truth is far less tense – the rocky crops are 60 discomfort by staying in the ‘wigwams’ at Aunt Rachel’s
million-year-old pieces of lava that cooled into
more than 40,000 interlocking basalt columns, EXPLORE WITH Away A Wee Walk are a local tour company
creating something that’s breathtaking and specialising in the Causeway Coast
awesome in equal measure. And you can climb
all over them, all the way out so you can almost . Best time to visit .
touch the ocean – although this isn’t advisable on April to September. It’s best to pick a dry day to visit, as the
the rare occasion of very strong winds, as there is
no barrier between you and the water! stones become very slippery when wet.

It’s easy to see why the Giant’s Causeway . Useful websites .
became a UNESCO Heritage Site in 1986. WALKNI.COM
Northern Ireland’s only attraction to make the list,
it holds a lot of geological value, is a totally unique NATIONALTRUST.ORG.UK
place, and has been venerated in both science IRELAND.COM/EN-GB/
and the arts over the years. There’s more to see
than just those outcrops, though. Perhaps most Europe
famous is the Wishing Chair, a natural throne
created by the basalt columns, and there’s also The Giant’s Causeway
Finn McCool’s camel. Local folklore claims it was stretches out into the
the only steed that could carry the giant; it’s also
made of lava that is millions of years old. Atlantic Ocean

If walking is more your thing, there are a few
paths, like Shepherd’s Steps, that take you up
the cliff face, past the Organ Pipes and towards
an eight-kilometre (five-mile) path that stretches
along the picturesque north coast. You can use
this route to visit the scenic ruins of Dunseverick
Castle to the east, and on a clear day, you can see
over the water to Islay, the southernmost island in
Scotland’s Hebrides chain. The coastline itself is
nothing short of stunning – taking a stroll should
be high on your list of priorities.

For those who don’t want to take lunch with
them, there’s a pub a short walk away from the
visitor centre called The Nook that offers a true
taste of Ulster. The visitor centre itself also hosts
a cafe, as well as being home to a small exhibition
about the Causeway with interactive activities for
children. At the Giant’s Causeway, there really is
something for everyone, and it’s all just waiting to
be discovered.

57

JUNGFRAU-ALETSCH

Where the chocolate-box image of the Swiss Alps becomes a reality

L ocated in the southwest of Switzerland, the and mountain huts dotted among its valleys and line takes you to the Jungfraujoch, a saddle
823 square kilometres (318 square miles) peaks, offering a place to rest for hikers trekking connecting the Jungfrau and Mönch peaks.
of spectacular natural beauty that compose through this incomparable landscape. The region You will arrive via the highest railway station in
the Jungfrau-Aletsch protected area make real is surprisingly diverse, offering snow-capped Europe, at a height of 3,454 metres (11,332 feet)
the idealised vision of pristine alpine beauty that peaks, rocky scrub, mountain lakes, pine forests, to be treated to some incredible panoramic views
we have come to associate with Switzerland’s and green meadows. The area owes its diversity of the surrounding landscape. You can also find
mountain ranges. of flora and fauna in part to its location. The railways and cable cars that will take you to other
mountains’ southern slopes, exposed as they spectacular viewpoints, such as the Moosfluh,
The region takes its name from two of are to warmer temperatures, give that landscape Bettmerhorn and Eggishorn. In that sense, the
the area’s most impressive landmarks. The more of a Mediterranean feel, in stark contrast to area is surprisingly accommodating to tourists,
4,158-metre (13,642-foot) Jungfrau mountain, the alpine flowers and forests that you’ll find on despite being a near-untouched landscape.
while not the tallest in the area (that honour goes the other side.
to the 4,270-metre (14,009-foot) Finsteraarhorn), Nevertheless, it is Jungfrau-Aletsch’s pristine
is a dominating site, sat alongside the Eiger and While this is, of course, a great place for environment that makes it such an important
Mönch, forming an awe-inspiring mountain wall. mountaineers to visit, you don’t have to be a site and necessitates its protection. Walking
The ‘Aletsch’ portion of the name refers to the veteran climber to enjoy the area. There are through its green alpine meadows and pine
glistening 23-kilometre (14-mile) long Aletsch plenty of accessible hiking trails through forests, stopping off at picturesque huts, taking
Glacier, the largest in the Alps. which to explore the area. If you want to get in its stunning lakes – all against the dramatic
up high without becoming a mountaineer, backdrop of mountain peaks – is the best way to
This incredible area of natural beauty is left there’s also the Jungfrau Railway. The Jungfrau experience this area of natural beauty.
largely untouched, save for the winding trails

Europe The spectacular Finsteraarhorn
is the tallest mountain in the

Jungfrau-Aletsch protected area

. SWITZERLAND .
Mountains

. Highlights .

The Anenhütte is a great
location for a day’s hike
Ski and snowboard all year round at
the top of the Jungfraujoch
Smell the glorious wildflowers on

the northern slopes

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Take the Jungfrau Railway to the ‘Top of

Europe’ for spectacular views

STAY HERE The Hotel Eiger is a family-run hotel in
the car-free town of Mürren

EXPLORE WITH Alpenwild offers small-group hiking
tours that avoid harming the environment

. Best time to visit .
Spring, for classic Alpine foliage

. Useful websites .

JUNGFRAU.CH
jungfraualetsch.ch

HOTELEIGER.COM

58

. IRELAND . The Cliffs of Moher in County
Coastline Clare is Ireland’s most-

. Highlights . visited natural attraction
Climb to the top of the historic O’Brien’s observation

tower for unrivalled views
See the innovative visitor centre, built into the side of

a hill and covered completely by grass
Hike the 8-mile (13 kilometre) Cliffs of Moher walking

trail to see more dramatic cliffs

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Buses run from the nearby town

of Ennis right to the Cliffs

STAY HERE Luxurious Woodlands Hotel in Limerick
has a carbon offset programme

EXPLORE WITH Visiting the site independently is
the most sustainable way to see it

. Best time to visit .
June to August

. Useful websites .
CLIFFSOFMOHER.IE
IRELAND.COM
BURRENGEOPARK.IE

Europe

CLIFFS OF MOHER

Sweeping panoramic vistas of sea and shoreline greet visitors to Ireland’s Cliffs of Moher

T he trek to the Cliffs of Moher in County mountain ranges in County Galway to the north, ($10) per adult, and visitors under
Clare on the western coast of Ireland the Aran Islands in Galway Bay to the west, and 16 years of age are admitted free of charge.
takes the traveller to one of the world’s southward to Loop Head. The visitor centre is open daily, except at
most inspiring places. Through millions of Christmas, usually from 9am to 9pm local time.
years, as the green countryside meets the Among the most-visited sites in Ireland, the Two trails lead from the centre, and multiple
Cliffs of Moher, named a part of the UNESCO entry points have been opened along the
pounding surf of the Atlantic Ocean, nature has Global Geopark, welcome about 1.5 million cliffside. Visitors are asked to exercise caution
carved a breathtaking panorama of sheer rock travellers each year, captivating them with and stay on the official trail, which is set back
and seemingly endless seas stretching to the unparalleled natural beauty. There is a variety a bit from the edge for safety reasons. The
limitless horizon. of animal species here, including birds such unofficial trail runs closer to the edge but is
as Atlantic puffins that nest on Goat Island, indeed more treacherous. Three primary viewing
The cliffs are named after an old fortress peregrine falcons, kittiwakes and more, along platforms – the main at Hag’s Head, the north
known as Mothar, or Moher, that once with whales, dolphins and other marine life. at Knockardakin and the south near the puffin
dominated their southern reaches. They soar Rare flora includes Sea Pink and Cat’s-ear, colony’s home – are within reasonable walking
214 metres (702 feet), while extending eight along with other abundant blooming species. distance of the visitor centre.
kilometres (five miles) along the coast at the Ancient stories of the cliffs abound in local lore,
southwestern edge of Ireland’s Burren region, enchanting those who stop to listen, and bringing Taking advantage of regular air service to
from Hag’s Head in the south to beyond the vibrant history of the area to life. Dublin, visitors may wish to rent a car, enjoy the
O’Brien’s Tower in the north. The tower, built 270-kilometre (170-mile) drive from the capital
in 1835 by Sir Cornelius O’Brien, is a familiar An ecologically oriented visitor centre opened city to the Cliffs of Moher, sample the local fare in
man-made landmark, constructed by the local in 2007 and rests within the crook of a hillside to an authentic Irish pub, and find affordable lodging
businessman who wanted to spur tourism to minimise its profile across the verdant landscape. located in the surrounding area. Buses run a
boost the local economy. Along with the vantage The Cliffs of Moher virtual tour is an unforgettable daily schedule to nearby towns such as Doolin,
point of the cliffs, the tower offers extensive 360-degree experience, and audio guides and Lisdoonvarna, Galway, Ennis and Kinvara.
vistas of the Twelve Pins and Maumturks maps are readily available. Admission is about £8

59

The ethereal atmosphere inside the Blue Grotto . GREECE .
takes on a whole other level from the water, so Cave
don’t forget to wear your swimming costume
. Highlights .

Swim in the turquoise waters of the cave and take
photos that will crash your social media feed
Look for rare monk seals that sometimes
shelter in the cavern – hence its local name
of Phokiali (“Seal’s Refuge”)
Bolt on an excursion to the Kolones cave farther

down the coast or visit the uninhabited islet of Ro

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Ferries are available from Rhodes, and
Kaş on mainland Turkey. Boat tours to the cave
from Megisti Harbour take about an hour all in

STAY HERE Fig Jam Cottage is a locally run
and authentic townhouse, offering fantastic

views all the way to Turkey

EXPLORE WITH A Kastellorizo institution in his
own right, Captain Kostas is a little gruff around
the edges but seasoned with years of experience

. Best time to visit .
May to October for most reliable

weather and warmer water

. Useful websites .

VISITGREECE.GR/EN
VISITKASTELLORIZO.GR
MY-FAVOURITE-PLANET.DE/ENGLISH

Europe
© Alamy

BLUE GROTTO

This little-known Greek gem will steal your heart – just mind your head along the way!

The world has many sea caves. Not long, 30 metres (100 feet) wide and 25 metres be gained by boat. Because the opening to the
surprisingly given its 13,600 kilometres (80 feet) tall once inside, it is the largest in cave is barely over a metre high, even in calm
(8,450 miles) of coastline, Greece lays Greece – and one of the finest examples of its conditions, everyone is required to lay flat on the
claim to more than its fair share. However, very kind anywhere on Earth. deck to avoid any painful bumps when entering
and exiting. If the sea is more choppy, the guide
few warrant a dedicated visit. As with most coastal caves, this natural cavity will have to make a call on whether or not the
Given its far-flung position at the far eastern in the rugged limestone cliffs is the result of boat can be taken in. If it can’t proceed, strong
millennia of wave action. But it’s the eerie blue swimmers may be given the chance to venture
edge of the Mediterranean, the Dodecanese glow inside that makes this one stand out. For inside on their own power.
island of Kastellorizo (aka Megisti) might, at first that, we have the refraction of sunlight through
glance, seem like too much hassle to warrant the cerulean sea to thank, which then casts With this in mind, be sure to have a waterproof
a side trip. Admittedly, this island of less than ethereal blue glimmers upon the pale cavern casing for your camera/phone for this eventuality,
500 inhabitants lacks the bustle and variety on walls. As well as marvelling at the interplay of because it would be a crime to venture here
offer in nearby Rhodes or Cyprus. But for some light and water, don’t forget to also direct your and not get a chance to capture it. Though once
travellers, its remote situation and dearth of attention upwards to enjoy the stalactites that you’ve got some snaps to elicit some social-
tourists is reason enough to make a beeline here. festoon the ceiling. media envy, don’t forget to take a few minutes
to drink in this truly special place with your own
And that’s before you even get to the jewel in To enjoy this natural wonder, you are at the eyes, because few destinations deserve the
Megisti’s crown: the Blue Grotto (Galazio Spilaio). hands of Mother Nature – or perhaps more “#nofilter” hashtag more than this one.
It’s not the only watery cavern to go by such apt would be Poseidon – as access can only
a moniker, but at around 50 metres (165 feet)

60

SANTORINI

The most glamorous of the Greek islands had an explosive birth

T he glitzy Greek island of Santorini is caused the centre of Strongili to sink, leaving a links the three, and is lined with upmarket hotels,
famed for its clusters of white-washed,
blue-domed buildings that defy the laws seawater-filled caldera, or crater, with towering restaurants and countless photo opportunities.
of gravity by clinging to cliffs that plunge almost
vertically into the Aegean Sea below. It’s thanks cliffs along one side – Santorini. The island is To escape the crowds – and the sky-high prices
to this impressive architecture that the Cycladic
island enjoys such incomparable views and officially known as Thira, which encompasses – base yourself at one of the growing number of
sunsets. But it’s the black and red sand beaches
hundreds of feet below these towns and villages the neighbouring islets that are a continuation of hotels in Akrotiri, in the island’s south, instead,
which reveal the most about the island’s history.
the caldera. You’d never know this serene island which all offer impressive caldera views but are
Santorini and its neighbouring islets were part
of an island known as Strongili, or the Round One, had such an explosive beginning. further from the action. Alternatively, head to the
until a catastrophic volcanic eruption in 1,500BC
The fact villages have been built literally lesser-known east coast, where volcanic sand
. GREECE .
Caldera island clinging to the cliffside is one of the most beach resorts take advantage of the more gently

. Highlights . impressive things about this naturally sloping landscape.
Walk the caldera-edge pathway at sunset
for spectacular views – head north from remarkable island. Then again, this perfectly fits No trip to Santorini is complete without taking

Fira to Firostefani and Imeroviglid with the industrious character of the Santorini’s time to witness the incredible sunsets from the
Visit one of the dozen local vineyards specialising in
crisp dry whites and Vinsanto, an amber dessert wine) settlers – until the end of the 19th century, west coast resorts. Cliffside hotels and restaurants
Go to the site of Akrotiri, a Minoan city destroyed by
Santorini had a flourishing shipping trade with terraces get booked up months in advance,
the volcanic eruption of 1613 BC
and exported goods including cotton, textiles, and command premium prices, but if this is the
. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Walking is the best way to explore the agricultural products and wine. This prosperity only time you plan to visit, it’s well worth pre-
steep, narrow paths that wind through the island’s most
ended in 1956 with an earthquake and volcanic booking to soak up the views and atmosphere. If
Insta-worthy towns and villages
STAY HERE La Bellezza Eco Boutique Hotel – everything eruption that followed, which caused devastation. your budget is a little tighter, simply follow the
from the solar panels to rainwater-fed swimming pool
It wasn’t until 1970, with the introduction of the caldera-edge path north out of the town and settle
is chosen with the environment in mind
EXPLORE WITH EcoTourism Greece offers a selection tourism industry, that the reconstruction of down with a bottle of local dry white wine. While

of eco-friendly hotel stays and tours on the island much of the island began. we’re on the subject, the island’s interior is dotted

. Best time to visit . The west-coast settlements of Fira, the island’s with vineyards and traditional villages that are
April to June, or September to October when prices
busy capital, and the neighbouring villages of well worth a visit. Schedule a stop in Pyrgos for
are cheaper and crowds are smaller
Firostefani and Imerovigli, attract the majority of authentic restaurants and to wander through the Europe
. Useful websites .
VISITGREECE.GR/EN the island’s two-million annual visitors. A path charming back streets.

SANTORINISECRETS.COM Santorini is famed for its steep towns of
GREEKA.COM whitewashed buildings with blue-domed

churches clinging to the rockface

61

WIED IL-GHASRI

The Maltese slice of ocean no one knows about

S itting on the northern coast of Gozo, With the little town of Zebbug on the almost- bloom. Climbing down a narrow path with a very
Malta’s little sister, Wied il-Ghasri is a vertical hill behind you, and dusty tracks low wall, you’ll reach the cove in a minute or two,
difficult place to locate. With so many winding south and west, Wied il-Ghasri is the and the shadow of the gorge brings peace and
wave-washed coves and inlets to explore, it opening to the sea. respite from the heat.
would be easy to end up at the wrong one.
Or, you might end up three villages away, When you walk down the rubbly track, with Why should you visit? Because the turquoise
wondering why you can’t see the sea anymore. the blue sky-ocean wash to your right, you’ll water is clear enough that you see the sea
But the navigational difficulty is worth it, for notice something that’s hard to find on densely floor, until it winds out to the open ocean, so it’s
Wied il-Ghasri is indeed hidden – and truly a populated Malta: it’s silent, beautifully silent. The perfect for snorkellers and aquatic escapades.
hidden gem. road is steep, the path is long, but the sun is Since the bay is sheltered and protective, it’s
shining, and the sea is calling. A few locals and ideal for photography and sunny relaxation.
To put this into perspective, the entirety of visitors who come here disturb your peace by Because it goes unnoticed, two worlds apart
Gozo is the size of Aberdeen. The island driving their vehicles down to the car park, but from the bustling beaches of Marsalforn and
appeals to our sense of curiosity, the human the chances are you’ll envy them as you see Xlendi, and the hubbub of Malta itself. Prickly
desire for exploration – you can easily strike them cruise by. pink pears find crannies in the rock, reminiscent
out and straight away find country roads (the of the Wild West. Birds and crickets chirrup, and
John Denver kind), no people and the ocean. Until you get right to the edge of the cliff, you the air is soft and clear. Wied il-Ghasri is another
This gorge, hewn deeply out of this rocky can’t tell it’s coming. The rocks drop away in a kingdom, a grotto, a beauty unmatched.
tropicana, is a half-hour walk from the village waterfall of green. Scattered big pink petals bob,
of Marsalforn, to the very north of the island. among little yellow flowers, and daisies sway in Just make sure you’re well rested before you
the breeze. The caper plants are getting ready to climb back up.

Europe

. MALTA . On calm days, the Wied il-Ghasri
Coastline is clear and makes for brilliant
snorkelling grounds
. Highlights .

Discover the old salt pans chiselled
into the cliffs above

There are plenty of sea caves nearby, which
are best seen from a boat

Pick your way down the cliffside and take in
the scent of Malta’s wildflowers

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Gozo is such a small island that it’s best
explored by bike, or the brand new fleet of e-scooters

STAY HERE Check into a traditional Gozitan farmhouse
for the night for home-grown food and wine

EXPLORE WITH Gozo Adventures has an ‘eco-tour’
where you can meet local people, but the itinerary
changes with each tour, and may not include the Wied

. Best time to visit .
February for warm weather and fewer tourists;

April for the full spring beauty

. Useful websites .

VISITGOZO.COM
TINYURL.COM/WDHYVKY8

GUIDEMEMALTA.COM

62

The Bastei Bridge provides an impressive walkway
across stone towers, with views of the Elbe, the

Lilienstein table mountain and Königstein Fortress

. GERMANY . Europe
National Park

. Highlights .
Enjoy a barbecue at designated public fireplaces

Hike along the famous Painter’s Way route
Cycle the tranquil Elbe River for scenic views

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Get the solar-powered Kirnitzsch Valley

Tramway into the park
STAY HERE BioHotel Helvetia is a short drive outside

the park, and is the first eco-hotel in Saxony
EXPLORE WITH Many tour companies operate from

both the German and Czech sides of the border

. Best time to visit .
July and August, for warm weather and sunny skies

. Useful websites .
SAECHSISCHE-SCHWEIZ.DE/EN
SACHSEN-TOURISMUS.DE/EN

GERMANY.TRAVEL

SAXON SWITZERLAND

Looking for an adventure into the wilderness? Hike, cycle or climb your way through the mountains of Saxony

S ituated along the Elbe River and Alternatively, take a tour around the impressive public transport or by car. Once in Bad Schandau,
decorating the landscape of eastern rock labyrinth in Nikolsdorf, where you can learn hop onto a solar-powered Kirnitzsch Valley
Germany along the Czech border is the about the origins of the rock formations that Tramway, or travel on a traditional steamboat
pristine wilderness of Saxon Switzerland. Made exist and how they came to be this way. Or, why along the Elbe to reach the park.
up of imposing woodlands, expansive valleys not take a night hike through the wilderness
and sandstone mountains, this national park and be guided by moonlight alone? Lasting The imposing Königstein Fortress should
epitomises the great outdoors. approximately two to three hours, this hike also be on your list of sights to take in when
reveals mysterious figures as the stars shine visiting the park. With views of expansive
Start with a visit to the National Park Centre bright overhead. landscapes and an historic walk round the
located in the neighbouring village of Bad fortress, this is an ideal place to learn about its
Schandau just four kilometres (2.5 miles) from For the more active travellers, try your hand vibrant history of kings and princes who once
the park. Prepare yourself for a day or two before at rock climbing – a popular sport within the resided behind its walls.
heading out to explore this majestic landscape. national park – as there are over 700 summits
available. Climb your way up the pillars of You can’t visit Saxon Switzerland without
Guided tours provide a great way to experience Hercules for inspiring panoramic views, then hike taking a stroll along the famous 19th-century
Saxon Switzerland with local knowledge at hand. your way through endless forests of pine trees Bastei Bridge – a 76.5-metre (250-feet) man-
You can choose from a number of organised and over craggy boulders to explore deeper in made landmark that appears to be cast into the
routes, such as the ‘Three Stones Tour’, which Saxon Switzerland. towering rocks surrounding it. Entrance is free
will teach you everything you could possibly onto the bridge, and once there you can take in
need to know about local flora and fauna, rock From Saxony’s capital city of Dresden, arriving the extraordinary panoramic views over the whole
formations and the surrounding landscape. into the surrounding area is easy enough by park and the Elbe.

63

The view from Hohloh Tower over
the Northern Black Forest

Europe . GERMANY .
Forest

. Highlights .
Try out rafting down the Murg river
Cycle the scenic Panorama Cycle Route
Keep an eye out for deer, elk and even buzzards

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY E-bike trails are now clearly marked within

the forest tracks
STAY HERE Hotel Lamm Mitteltal operates sustainably,

and even has its own “wellness village” on site
EXPLORE WITH Many of the hotels in the area offer

their own e-bike rental services

. Best time to visit .
Visit in winter for magical snowfall

. Useful websites .
NATIONALPARK-SCHWARZWALD.DE/EN

BLACK-FOREST-TRAVEL.COM
TOURISM.DE/BLACK-FOREST

BLACK FOREST

It’s not the cuckoo clocks or gateaux that draw in the crowds to the Black Forest: it’s the wilderness

Nestled deep at the base of south-western 1,493 metres (4,898 feet) above sea level and as well as visiting waterfalls by the likes of
Germany, the expansive and idyllic Black split into two distinct areas roughly 3.5 kilometres Allerheiligen. Take a moment to discover
Forest region dominates with woodlands, (2.1 miles) apart, the Black Forest is a park Wildsee, a small lake in the northern reaches
lakes and wildlife; this is the first national park brimming with activity and wildlife. of the park, and then head further south
to grace the state of Baden-Württemberg. Base towards the small town of Baiersbronn to get
yourself in the beautiful spa town of Baden- The park features beautiful upland pastures on board a mountain cart track.
Baden, approximately 35 kilometres (21 miles) called ‘grinden’, and there are several moors
north-east from the Black Forest, and you can located around the Hornisgrinde summit. In the winter months, visit Ruhestein for
Discover adventure trails, such as the Lothar, one of the park’s top ski resorts, offering up a
kick back in one of the many thermal spas Wilderness and Lynx trails, crossing over bridges, chance to traverse the wilderness in style. For
located throughout the city. fallen trees and following paths through the a quieter experience, Skilifte Vogelskopf is the
forest’s dark canopies (this low-light canopy ideal place to enjoy the slopes away from the
Once suitably relaxed, get your provisions gives the park its name). The trails offer an ideal crowds and to grab a bite to eat while taking
together and head out on the road for a forest opportunity to go mountain biking or hiking, in the views and planning your next move.
adventure of a lifetime. Reaching an altitude of

64

VERDON GORGE

Adrenaline seekers, nature lovers and aesthetes alike will be stunned by this deep canyon

W hen you conjure up images of . FRANCE . Europe
Provence in your mind’s eye, Gorge
you may think of the turquoise
Mediterranean lapping a seashore, fancy . Highlights .
restaurants overspilling with tan and glam, Swim in the Lac de Sainte-Croix
and picturesque villages dotting the tops of One the most memorable Verdon views is looking
green-scrub hills. But there’s more to the down and seeing birds of prey circling in the gorge
south of France than stereotypes. Slap bang Driving, cycling or walking the rim of the gorge
in the middle of Provence slinks the Verdon at dawn is a slam dunk. The rising sun casts
Gorge, an eye-wateringly steep-sided gorge interesting shadows and the route is much quieter
– 750 metres (2,460 feet ) deep in places –
that formed eons ago when the River Verdon . Ecotourism .
gouged its impressive canyon. Often called TRAVEL BY Eat Sleep Cycle’s week-long cycling
the Grand Canyon of Europe, the terrain is tour in Provence snakes the Verdon Gorge on
rocky and dramatic and nothing like the flat Day 2, but distances involve 100km (60 miles) per day
lavender fields just a few miles away. and a lot of elevation, so it’s best for avid cyclists
STAY HERE Maison de Moustiers is a self-catering house
It doesn’t take long in the car from Nice to for two or three people in Moustiers Sainte-Marie. A
find this inhospitable landscape, the safety traditional place with a roof terrace for BBQs and views
of the Cote d’Azur quickly giving way to the EXPLORE WITH Get down and dirty in the depths of
Verdon and its arid, limestone alpine foothills. the gorge with Ride the Verdon. Method of transport?
Eroded limestone is what gives the water
down below its unusual green colour, which Choose from kayak, raft or water walking
is reflected in the name of the gorge and . Best time to visit .
surrounding national park. As you look down
at the aqua snaking line and the huge Lac de Summer is a dream in Provence – until you hit the
Sainte-Croix at the end, it’s as if a child had nightmarish tailbacks. Spring and autumn are both
raided the pencil case and gone to town on a recommended, but the top pick is September when the
map with a lurid turquoise crayon. sun’s rays are warm and the river water glints invitingly

The canyon is 25 kilometres (15.5 miles) . Useful websites .
long and is found on the Verdon river PROVENCEWEB.FR/E/
between Castellane and Manosque. The PROVENCE-ALPES-COTEDAZUR.COM/EN/
crescent-shaped road along the rim is good
to drive or even cycle along. The circuit is UK.FRANCE.FR/EN/
90 kilometres (56 miles) long, starting from
Moustiers Ste Marie to Trigance and back. The captivating colour of the
The main gorge stretch begins at Aiguines Verdon river is something that will
where the road winds up to Col d’Illoires. stay with you for many years
Stopping properly, if you can, allows a good
long stare into the aqua abyss rather than
snatched glances of the view as you turn a
terrifying bend in the road.

There is plenty of flora and fauna
flourishing in the under-populated area,
but perhaps its most significant wildlife
is the proliferation of birds of prey. The
griffon vulture is a tawny bird covered in
dark feathers with a white head, which was
successfully reintroduced into the gorge in
1999 after being hunted out for decades. Its
gang now numbers over 300 birds, and they
are joined by many others like the rare black
vulture, the smaller Egyptian vulture and that
flamboyant flirt, the golden eagle, known for
its mid-flight mating ritual that takes place
in autumn. The eagle owl, the short tailed
snake eagle and the dove-sized hoopoe also
contribute to the figure and make the gorge
the attraction it is for twitchers.

65

DOLOMITI BELLUNESI

Explore Italy’s most spectacular natural wonders above and below ground

D ream up a mountain paradise fit for is the Nature Museum nearby. Moreover, Belluno nature, though, you should book into a rifugio
a fairy tale and it will probably look itself makes for an ideal base as it has hotels to (mountain cabin). When you wake up with lungs
something like Dolomiti Bellunesi suit all tastes. There are also hostels, B&Bs and full of fresh alpine air, you’ll feel like you’re living
National Park. Located in the Veneto Region guesthouses in the park. To get really close to your dream.
of northern Italy on the southern edge of the
Dolomites, this park is heaven for anyone who The region is renowned for its
radiant wildflowers, which paint
loves flowers. It is home to over 1,400 species of the hillsides in bright colours
plants, some of which might not grow anywhere
Europe else in the world. In the meadows and mountain
passes you might also catch a glimpse of a fierce
lynx, a big bear, or one of the park’s many other
wildlife species.

It’s clear why naturalists have revered this area
since the 18th century. The incredible biological
diversity is partly down to the great age of the
park’s ancient forests, and partly due to the
wide range of natural habitats that make up
its breathtaking scenery. Piercing the sky are
epic mountain peaks such as Monte Pavione
in the Vette Feltrine range, which tops out at a
whopping 2,335 metres (7,661 feet). Lower in
elevation, but no less spectacular, are the glacial
basins of Van de Zità.

Down in the valleys, meanwhile, the many
picturesque rivers, lakes and meadows will have
you forever taking photos. You’re going to need
a flash to capture the park’s most extraordinary
environment, however: the cave system at Piani
Eterni, which has over 30 kilometres (19 miles) of
underground galleries

With so much to see, it’s best to go to one of
the park’s three visitor centres to get directions.
The one in the city of Belluno, which is about
108 kilometres (67 miles) north of Venice, has
information on all aspects of the park and there

. ITALY .
Mountains

. Highlights .
Go in spring to see the stunning alpine

flowers in all their glory
Bring a flashlight to explore the aptly

named Piani Eterni caverns
Carry binoculars to avoid missing the Val

del Grisol’s birdlife

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY In winter, cross-country skiing is an
exhilarating (if athletic) way to see the Dolomites

STAY HERE Hotel Rosa Eco Spa Resort will put your
environmentally-conscious mind at rest – literally

EXPLORE WITH Dolomite Treks offers small-group and
self-guided tours of this incredible region

. Best time to visit .
May to September for hiking, and
November to April for winter sports

. Useful websites .
DOLOMITIPARK.IT/INDEX.PHP

DOLOMITISUPERSKI.COM
DOLOMITEMOUNTAINS.COM

66

. SPAIN . The parched landscape belies the
Desert diverse range of plants and wildlife
that call the Tabernas Desert home
. Highlights .
Don’t miss Gérgal’s isolated observatory,

Calar Alto, for unrivalled views
Visit the 11th-century ruined hilltop castle and

16th-century church in Tabernas town
MiniHollywood is a mock-up of an American Wild
West village used as the set for 100 films, including The
Good, the Bad and the Ugly and The Magnificent Seven

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Walk the Sendero Rambla de Tabernas, a

16km (10-mile) trip along a seasonal river

STAY HERE Cortijo La Joya de Cabo de Gata runs on
renewable energy and promotes recycling

EXPLORE WITH Malcaminos, a local company,
provides English-speaking tours of the desert

. Best time to visit .
Spring and autumn have less extreme temperatures

. Useful websites .

ANDALUCIA.ORG/EN/
UNIQUE-ALMERIA.COM
OASYSPARQUETEMATICO.COM/EN/

Europe

TABERNAS DESERT

Europe’s only semi-desert is home to epic landscapes used as a silver screen substitute for America’s Wild West

Glance at any photograph of Spain’s scorching 48°C. These extreme conditions have species of plant found here are the endemic sea
Tabernas Desert and you could be created an otherworldly landscape characterised lavender (Limonium insignis), which is in danger
forgiven for thinking you were looking by deep ravines, dry riverbeds, and flora and of extinction, and the winter-flowering toadflax
at America’s Wild West. It’s the reason why fauna adapted to survive here. (Linaria nigricans lange), which clothes the
filmmakers have long been attracted to this usually barren desert slopes in white after a wet
unique Andalucian landscape. Tabernas has been Tabernas, located in the province of Almeria, autumn. Dry river beds, called ramblas, provide
the setting for more than 100 movies, including is one of the most geologically interesting a more humid microclimate than the rest of
The Magnificent Seven and The Good, the Bad landscapes in Europe. Continual desertification parched landscape and provide a more forgiving
and the Ugly. And many visitors now travel and erosion create unique features such as habitat for reeds, oleanders and tamarisks. When
especially to tour the purpose-built sets of Fort sheer-sided gullies, which are carved out by the it comes to wildlife, reptiles and birds cling to the
Bravo or MiniHollywood, a mock-Western town infrequent but torrential rains, and piping, where edges of these seasonal rivers. Ladder snakes,
located seven kilometres (four miles) south of water permeates through the top of a slope and spiny-footed and ocellated lizards are commonly
Tabernas town. emerges further down through a hole, creating an spotted, as are Bonelli’s eagles and peregrines
underground pipe in the process. In some areas that use the desert as a hunting ground.
Nestled between the mountains of Sierra piping is so extreme that the hillsides are said to
Nevada, Gador, Filabres and Alhamilla, Tabernas resemble Swiss cheese. Tabernas Desert is one of the most accessible
is one of the most dramatic landscapes in Spain. natural wonders of the world, thanks to
It’s the only semi-desert in Europe, receiving Although it may look like vegetation and wildlife its excellent road and rail connections. Its
less than 25 centimetres (10 inches) of rainfall a are scarce, Tabernas harbours a wide variety silver screen-worthy landscapes make it an
year and enduring temperatures from -5°C to a of flora and fauna, all accustomed to surviving unforgettable place to visit.
in the semi-arid conditions. Among the unique

67

Europe . SERBIA/ROMANIA .
Gorge

. Highlights .

Enjoy a sedate trip on a pleasure cruise
Visit Lepenski Vir Museum to see how

early inhabitants lived
Attempt a hiking trial for panoramic

views from the cliff top

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Hybrid electric boat, operated by several

cruise lines and day trips

STAY HERE Camping Asin, located in Djerdap National
Park on the banks of the Danube

EXPLORE WITH Amadeus, a river cruise line with
Green Globe certification

. Best time to visit .
May to September for good weather

. Useful websites .
SERBIA.TRAVEL/EN

SERBIA.COM/VISIT-SERBIA/
ROMANIATOURISM.COM/

At their highest point, the cliffs
of the Iron Gates reach 500m

(1,640ft) above the water

IRON GATES

Cruise the spectacular gorges of the Lower Danube

Don’t be fooled by the name. The Iron through the narrow passage, although modern addition to the landscape (carved between
Gates aren’t a feature of the fantasy river cruisers who don’t need to worry about the 1994 and 2004), the 43-metre (141-foot) high
worlds of Game of Thrones or Lord of the complexities of navigation can relax and enjoy sculpture is the largest rock relief in Europe.
Rings. They aren’t gates. They aren’t even iron. the spectacular green cliffs reaching hundreds of
They are actually the most impressive stretch metres into the air. There’s no better way to see Only recently were the tempestuous waters
of the River Danube, a deep scar between the the Iron Gates than from the water and there are of the Iron Gates finally calmed. A bold
Balkan and Carpathian Mountains that marks the plenty of day trips to choose from. construction project saw two dams and two
hydroelectric power stations built between
border between Serbia and Romania. Though this is a natural wonder, it’s possible to 1964 and 1984, harnessing the waters to
Europe’s second-longest river slowly carved see how humanity has left its mark. An ancient power industry in communist Romania and
Roman plaque on the Serbian bank records the Yugoslavia. A reservoir was created upriver
through the bedrock of south-east Europe over site where Emperor Trajan built a 1,135-metre and water levels rose by 35 metres (115 feet),
thousands of years to create a series of four (3,724-foot) bridge across the Danube for his drowning the Mesolithic town of Lepenski Vir,
gorges and three wide basins over the Iron Gates’ army to cross the mighty river en route to the 17th-century fortress island of Ada Kaleh
134-kilometre (83-mile) length, although the conquering Dacia (modern Transylvania) in the and the modern river port of Orsova (which
most famous section is the Great Kazan gorge second century. A little further downstream, a was rebuilt on higher ground). The swollen
where the river is restricted to a width of 150 huge carving of Romanian tribal chief Decebal river may have permanently changed, but
metres (492 feet). stares across the water as though keeping watch folk on pleasure cruises will probably be glad
for the invading legionaries. Though a far newer that the rapids are a thing of the past.
Boat captains once dreaded the turbulent
rapids that foamed as water forced its way

68

THE MATTERHORN

Lose your breath in the frozen heart of the Alps

W hile this ‘peak in the meadows’ may 1962: the remote Swiss-Italian border. Finally, When it comes to the Matterhorn itself, there’s
be the symbol of Switzerland, to visit south: the vivid, spectacular Italian Aosta valley. exploration for years. For walkers, the most
in person (when you’re able to) is so popular hike begins from the Hörnlihütte refuge,
much more. As soon as you reach the chalet- Since the Matterhorn was first scaled in 1865, from July to September at dawn. For skiers,
lined streets of Zermatt, it’s a need, a magnetic visitors have flocked, to either climb or simply winter boasts 360 kilometres (225 miles) of runs,
pull, to look up and see it: the Matterhorn. experience the beauty of Zermatt. In 1871, British with the Theodul Glacier providing 21 kilometres
woman Lucy Walker became the first woman (13 miles) in the summer. For lovers of animals
The north and east faces stand straight-backed, to climb it – in a flannel skirt, no less – which and history, visit the Julens, a family of traditional
sheer, a grandfather, a watcher older than time. only intensified visitors’ desires. Punch magazine Zermatt valley farmers with a flock of black-nose
It’s iconic, mesmeric. It charges your bones, a bolstered this four days later, with a poem entitled, sheep. For beauty-seekers, the eco-friendly
bona-fide natural wonder. The pyramidal peak A Lady has Clomb to the Matterhorn’s Summit. cog railway to Görnergrat offers a 1,469-metre
was formed roughly 60 million years ago, when (4,800-feet) ascent, larch forests, mountain lakes,
African and Eurasian tectonic plates collided Nowadays, respectful tourism is everything. wild ibex, and summit views of over 29 peaks,
to effectively ‘push up’ the Alps. Initially, the Cars are forbidden. Instead, drive to Täsch, five glaciers, and, of course, the Matterhorn.
Matterhorn was rounded; glaciers carved its horn, kilometres (three miles) away, and take the Swiss-
the four faces of which align with the compass flag-patterned train to Zermatt. The 12-minute How do you choose what to do? You struggle,
points. North, riddled with dangers of rockfalls shuttle is panoramic, beautiful. In winter, plains and you marvel, and you vow to come again. You
and storms: the winding Zermatt valley. East: the of untouched snow whisper on either side. In drink Swiss beer and eat raclette in a Zermatt
glaciers between Monte Rosa and the Görnergrat summer, while crossing a towering bridge, a valley chalet-restaurant, and reflect on the incalculable
ridge. West, the highest, surmounted only in of aquamarine streams and vibrant pines drops magic of the mountain standing watch.
away, and so, no doubt, will your breath.

. SWITZERLAND . The majestic Matterhorn offers Europe
Mountain year-round wonder, from hiking

. Highlights . and skiing to live music
Walk the five Lakes trail, where three

reflect the Matterhorn
Take a crystal gondola up to the

Matterhorn Glacier Paradise
Experience the Görnergrat, with Europe’s

highest open-air cog railway

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Train, Geneva/Zurich to Visp,

then shuttle service, Visp to Zermatt

STAY HERE Iglu-Dorf, a sustainable igloo village
run on renewable energy

EXPLORE WITH All Alpine Sports, particularly
Klein Matterhorn paragliding and heliboarding

. Best time to visit .
July to September for hiking, November for off-season skiing,

and April for the Zermatt Unplugged festival

. Useful websites .

ZERMATT.CH
MATTERHORNPARADISE.CH
ZERMATT-UNPLUGGED.CH/EN/

69

PYRENEES

A walker’s mountain paradise tucked between the south of France and sunny Spain

There are more than 230 . FRANCE, SPAIN & ANDORRA . F amed for its rich diversity of plant
sky-high lakes in the Pyrenees Mountain Range and animal life, the Pyrenees are
created by long-melted glaciers some of Europe’s most underrated
. Highlights . natural features. These hills were created
Take a ride on Europe’s highest train track by a collision of two different landmasses
between 80 and 20 million years ago. A
Wander through the medieval town drifting chunk of ground called the Iberian
of Sauveterre-de-Béarn landmass careered into Eurasia, forcing the
meeting point upwards. The Pyrenees have
Ride horses through the meadows of Ossau transformed into a living, breathing wilderness
since their formation all those millions of
. Ecotourism . years ago, and are now home to thousands of
TRAVEL BY Get a comfortable train into the heart of organisms from blossoming wildflowers to the
the Pyrenees from either the French or Spanish sides sure-footed chamois.

STAY HERE The cosy Hotel Eco Logis is a family-run and The high-altitude ecosystem is ideal for
naturally insulated motel close to Lourdes birds of prey, though they can be tough to
spot. Golden eagles spend entire days sitting
EXPLORE WITH Pyrenees Trips is a Catalonia-based perfectly still on their perches before selecting
tour company specialising in active eco trips their ideal prey. Egyptian vultures visit in
the summer to beat the heat in their North
. Best time to visit . African wintering grounds. Peregrine falcons,
September and October for warm, dry weather the fastest animals on Earth, plummet to
the ground at 390 kilometres (240 miles)
. Useful websites . per hour, so blink and you’ll miss their
PYRENEES-PARCNATIONAL.FR superfast skydives. Birdwatchers come from
miles around to get views these magnificent
HOTEL-ECO-LOGIS.FR/EN/ creatures. The national park is also home to
PYRENEESTRIPS.COM/EN finches, creepers and owls along with the
big flying carnivores. Bird enthusiasts should
Europe flock to the Hecho and Anso valleys to spot
spectacular species.

Winter snow makes the Pyrenees an ideal
place to ski. So much snow falls in some
years that lifts can be buried under metres of
fluffy flakes. All of this fresh fall is irresistible
for alpine adventurers of any age. There are
plenty of resorts to choose from depending
on your budget and personal taste. Many
are tailored specifically for families. Grand
Tourmalet is the biggest ski area in the
French Pyrenees and it features an amazing
observatory almost 3,000 metres (9,843 feet)
above sea level. Stargazers can enjoy dinner
while studying the night sky before beginning
the sunrise hike back down the mountain.

If you prefer life at a slightly slower pace
there are countless walking trails all over the
park. One of the most stunning is Cirque
de Gavarnie, a valley surrounded by an
enormous rock face – once described by poet
Victor Hugo as the ‘colosseum of nature’ –
sculpted by glaciers as the heavy ice moved
over the ground. The great depth of Cirque de
Gavarnie was caused by repeated scraping of
glaciers over thousands of years. Visitors can
now explore what was once buried deep in ice
and see the region’s truly impressive geology
for themselves.

70

Its extreme northern latitude means that . NORWAY .
Svalbard is one of the best places to see Archipelago
stunning aurora displays
. Highlights .

Go on a dog sled safari
Get under the glaciers by ice caving
Longyearbyen is the world’s most northerly town,
but has a surprising number of outlets and activities

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY You’ll have to fly into Svalbard, but once

you arrive, there’s a shuttle bus to many hotels

STAY HERE Basecamp Explorer is an eco hotel based
on a traditional fur trapper’s hut

EXPLORE WITH Green Dog Svalbard is a family run
kennel that offers dog sled tours

. Best time to visit .
May to September for milder conditions and more
wildlife, but if your top priority is to see the northern
lights, you’ll want to time your visit during the winter

(November to February).

. Useful websites .

EN.VISITSVALBARD.COM
VISITNORWAY.COM
ROUTESNORTH.COM

Europe

SVALBARD

These arctic islands are a polar playground for nature lovers

You might wonder what could entice subspecies of ptarmigan and the pink-footed With icescapes to rival even Patagonia, it’s a
anyone to visit a remote cluster of islands goose. But for Svalbard’s star attraction, you’ll worthy alternative for those looking to skip both
in the Arctic Ocean, where the average need to take to the water. the crowds and the air miles. There’s something
summer temperature is 5°C (41°F), where to satisfy anyone’s inner adventurer, with ice
months go by without any light (or darkness), Polar bears outnumber the human residents caving under glaciers, cross-country skiing
and where the permanent population is about a here by around 30 per cent, making this chilly and kayaking in the fjords to name just a small
tenth that found on the Scottish isle of Orkney. destination a hotspot for observing these much- selection of the outdoor action up for grabs.
But don’t let the barren domain of rock and ice loved mammals. They’re in good company, with Urban explorers might be interested in a trip to
deceive you: Svalbard has plenty of things to pinniped and cetacean numbers on the rise after Pyramiden, an abandoned Soviet coal mining
keep you occupied. a marine protected area the size of Switzerland town with creepy vibes and Instagrammably
was sanctioned in the early 2000s. One species Russian relics.
Wildlife fans will have a field day (or better put, frequenting these icy waters more regularly
a fjord day) here – it’s living proof that safaris in recent years is the blue whale – and who Admittedly, Svalbard isn’t the easiest of places
aren’t the preserve of tropical climes. Forget the wouldn’t want to catch a glimpse of the largest to reach, but there’s a big plus side to that. It’s
traditional 4x4 and instead hop on a snowmobile animal ever to have lived on Earth? only once you’re there, perhaps lodging for a
or a dog sled to go in search of Svalbard reindeer night in a blissfully remote cabin (or even an
(diminutive cousins of their Scandinavian It’s not all about the fauna, though. The rugged igloo) without a coffee shop, a mobile phone
relations that have adapted to island life), Arctic landscape – almost two-thirds of the archipelago signal or even another human in miles that you
foxes and dozens of birds, including an endemic is covered by glaciers – offers some of the last realise the true meaning of escapism.
true wilderness in Europe and indeed the world.

71

NORWEGIAN FJORDS

Explore the exquisite valleys along Norway’s glacier-carved coastline

T hink of the coastline of Norway as the drink in the scenery than with a cocktail on deck, the steep cliffs are abandoned goat farms that
face of a weather-beaten Viking warrior. although be aware that bigger isn’t always better cling to the rock, and pretty Geiranger nestles
Glaciers scraping across the landscape for – the huge vessels operated by some cruise lines at the end of the valley. Its population of 250
millennia left deep clefts that filled with seawater cannot reach as far into the fjords as some of is outnumbered many times over when the big
like the salty wrinkles of a seafaring raider the smaller ships. Those without a desire to step cruise liners come a-calling.
crossing the North Sea in search of plunder. If aboard a cruise can join the locals on ferries that
chug up and down the fjords on a daily basis for With nearly 1,200 other fjords to choose
Norway didn’t have its famous fjords reaching a fraction of the price that the cruisers have paid. from, escaping the crowds is always possible.
inland, its coastline would be 2,500 kilometres Be aware that boating isn’t particularly eco- Storfjorden is a haven for wildlife. Look up for
(1,550 miles) long. With them, it is a staggering friendly, unless you can sail on the wind. sea eagles soaring on thermals, look down for
29,000 kilometres (18,000 miles) – longer than dolphins, porpoises and whales riding the bow
the coastline of the USA despite the country The most recognisable but busiest fjord wave. The Flåm Railway in Aurlandsfjord is a great
covering a fraction of the area. is Geirangerfjord, a tourist magnet that has way to climb the cliffs without needing hiking
combined with Nærøyfjord on the World Heritage boots; the line twists up past the Rjoandefossen
The best way to explore the fjords is from the List. Waterfalls topple down its plunging sides; and Kjosfossen waterfalls. The end of the line,
water. Those who like to indulge in a bit of luxury the pretty Seven Sisters, the dashing Suitor and 863 metres (2,830 feet) above sea level, has
should join the hundreds of thousands who the elegant Bridal Veils all seem to pose for the nothing but a platform, a café and wonderful
sail into the inlets every year aboard a majestic camera as you slowly drift past. Dotted along views of Norway’s unrivalled fjordland.
cruise liner. There is perhaps no finer way to

Europe . NORWAY .
Coastline

. Highlights .
Join the commuters on the Geiranger-Hellesylt ferry

Photograph the picture-perfect Urnes
Stave Church in Lustrafjord

Hike to Nigardsbreen Glacier near Sognefjord

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Hurtigruten, the sea ferry route

that hops along the coast
STAY HERE Vinje Camping in Geiranger, plush cabins in

the middle of a World Heritage Site
EXPLORE WITH Brim Explorer, a hybrid-electric ship

offering day cruises out of Tromsø

. Best time to visit .
June to August for long summer days

. Useful websites .
VISITNORWAY.COM
FJORDS.COM
FJORDNORWAY.COM

The steep-sided fjords were
carved by glaciers with the bottom
up to 500m (1,640ft) underwater

72

The most common places . NORTHERN HEMISPHERE .
tourists watch the lights are from Solar Light Show
Scandinavia and Iceland
. Highlights .

Watch the auroras dance across the sky
from the comfort of an igloo hotel

Take a long exposure photograph to capture
the lights at their best

Discover indigenous Sámi culture

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Trek or sled deep into a rural area to see

the auroras without light pollution

STAY HERE Ollero Eco Lodge in Finnish Lapland has
rooms, igloos and cabins

EXPLORE WITH Tromsø Lapland is a Sámi-led tour
company that has reindeer sledding to the Lights

. Best time to visit .
Winter, for the dark skies you need

. Useful websites .
WIKITRAVEL.ORG/EN/NORTHERN LIGHTS

BIT.LY/32PNFNP
TROMSOLAPLAND.NO

Europe

AURORAS

Witness nature’s amazing light show

Undoubtedly one of Earth’s most amazing of energetic charged particles with atoms in path and structure of the emitted photons
natural wonders, the polar auroras – Earth’s thermosphere, the highest layer of the are determined by the direction of the Earth’s
otherwise known as the northern lights atmosphere. These charged particles originate magnetic field lines, with the charged particles
(in the Northern Hemisphere) and southern in the Earth’s magnetosphere where solar winds funnelled down and accelerated along them,
lights (in the Southern Hemisphere) – are a from the Sun bombard the thermosphere, hence the location of auroras around the north
naturally occurring light display that takes place triggering the spectacular auroral mechanism. and south poles.
in the high latitude regions of the poles. They
are characterised by diffuse coloured streaks The light results from the charged particles Interestingly, it’s possible to determine the
through the night sky, winding and twisting like a colliding with and ionising nitrogen atoms – that type of emissions reacting in the sky by studying
liquid stream made of light. is the nitrogen atoms gain an electron – as well the colour of an aurora, with oxygen emissions
as oxygen and nitrogen atoms returning from generating a green or brownish-hued illumination,
Far from anything supernatural, auroras an excited to a ground state, thereby forcing while nitrogen emissions produce a blue or
like this are actually the result of the collision the emission of photons (quanta of light). The occasionally red display.

73

AFRICA & THE MIDDLE EAST SAHARA WHITE

DUNES DESERT

NORTH AFRICA EGYPT

76 85

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EYE OF THE

THE SAHARA DEAD SEA

MAURITANIA JORDAN/ISRAEL/
WEST BANK
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TSINGY DE
NAMIB-NAUKLUFT
BEMARAHA
NAMIBIA
MADAGASCAR
87
79
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VICTORIA FALLS
MASAI MARA
ZAMBIA/ZIMBABWE
KENYA
88
80
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SPITZKOPPE
KILIMANJARO
NAMIBIA
TANZANIA
89
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BWINDI GREAT RIFT VALLEY
IMPENETRABLE
EAST AFRICA
FOREST
94
UGANDA
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90
RIVER NILE
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NORTHEAST AFRICA
TABLE
MOUNTAIN 96

SOUTH AFRICA -

91 DHOFAR

- OMAN

WADI RUM 97

JORDAN -

92 BAOBAB

- AVENUE

OKAVANGO MADAGASCAR
DELTA
98
BOTSWANA
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93
SOCOTRA

YEMEN

99

SAHARA DUNES

With extreme temperatures and shifting sand, the dune seas of the Sahara are an explorer’s dream

Africa & The Middle East A t more than 9.2 million square kilometres fluctuated back and forth from red (no-go) to a few words lost in translation might mean you
(3.5 million square miles) covering ten green (see advice). won’t get the experience you hoped for. Again,
countries and stretching across nearly a if it’s your first time in Morocco and you’re not
third of the African continent, the Sahara desert Your likely port of entry to see a Saharan feeling confident about striking a bargain while
is bigger than the USA. You might be surprised dune sea is via Morocco, for Erg Chebbi. The you’re out there, book your tour online from
to know that it’s actually only the third largest most common route tourists will take is via an approved operator. One thing to look out for
desert in the world, after Antarctica and the Marrakech, and if it’s your first time there, then when booking is the length of the trip, as a local
Arctic, but it is the world’s largest hot desert – prepare yourself for a wonderful, albeit slightly operator might not advertise which erg they’re
and it’s not all sand, sand, sand. Vast areas are intimidating, sensory overload. Spend a few taking you to, and just assume you want a trip
covered by stony plateau known as hamada, nights acclimatising here, visit Jemaa el-Fnaa out into the desert. A two-day tour will take you
and barren mountains. Between the rocks are market, stock up on supplies and explore to Zagora and then back, but for Erg Chebbi,
relatively small patches of ergs, or dune seas, the the local cuisine in the square. Maybe buy a you’ll want the three-day tour. Both begin on
most impressive of which pop up in Morocco. few items of clothing if you feel unprepared: the same route and take you via the little trader
Morocco can get extremely hot, but daytime town of Ouarzazate, but the three-day tour goes
This is fortunate, as many others are temperatures in spring and autumn can drop further and takes you to Merzouga. You’ll get an
only accessible via countries that Western to the low teens and even less than 10 degrees overnight stay in a desert camp (an exhilarating
governments strongly advise against travelling Celsius (50 degrees Fahrenheit). If you haven’t experience, especially for first-timers) and
to, including Libya, Niger, Mali and parts of already booked a tour into Erg Chebbi in advance, evening meals are often included in the price.
Algeria and Tunisia. A seasoned traveller might then you’ll find plenty of operators offering trips
consider venturing beyond the furthest reaches into the desert lasting several nights, which are While technically part of a sub-Saharan
of the tourist trail – it is just an advisory, after often much cheaper than anything you’d book steppe and not a true desert, the dunes of Erg
all. If you’re feeling confident, check your local back home. What you save in cash, however, you Chebbi do a pretty good impression of the actual
government website, as the political climate in might lose in peace of mind: unscrupulous local Sahara, which lies much further south. They
some north African countries has frequently operators looking to gouge tourists or even just rise dramatically out from the edge of Merzouga

Camels are essential (and more fun) . NORTH AFRICA .
for most travel through the desert Desert

. Highlights .
Ride a camel over the rdiges of Erg Chebbi

Stock up on supplies at Jemaa el-Fnaa
Take a trip into the Atlas Mountains

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY They may be uncomfortable, but
camel rides are how you travel like a local
STAY HERE Terre des Etoiles is a rustic eco-

lodge and camp just south of Marrakech
EXPLORE WITH Morocco Ecotours offer three

different treks into the Sahara
. Best time to visit .
October to April
. Useful websites .

DESTINATIONMOROCCOTOURS.COM
DESERT-CANDLES.COM

VISITMOROCCO.COM/EN

76

Experienced travellers might consider
the dunes of the Western Sahara, but

beware, landmines dot this region

“A TRIP TO THE DESERT WOULDN’T BE The days can get extremely hot, but nighttime
COMPLETE WITHOUT A STAY AT AN OASIS” in the desert can be very cold, too

village and then continue across several horizons Morocco will be the point of Africa & The Middle East
in all directions. It’s around 40 kilometres (25 entry to the Sahara’s many
miles) long, and runs around eight kilometres dune seas for most travellers HABOOB SEASON
(five miles) from east to west, a literal sea of
rust to rose-gold-coloured sand depending on ripples in a sand sea, with its grandest natural Sandstorms, or haboobs, are rare
what time of day you’re observing it, undulating monuments soaring to 300 metres (984 feet). occurrences around the world, but when they
to heights of up to 150 metres (492 feet). The Because of its more inaccessible location, there do happen, the Sahara experiences them
Grande Dune de Merzouga is the mother of are fewer visitors as well. It’s two days by camel on a huge scale. They’re typically formed
this dune sea, and can be distinguished from from the nearest town (M’Hamid) to the biggest in early summer when a dry, northeast
other dunes that rival its height by the thicket dunes. You can make the trip quicker by renting a wind flows across the desert, while moist
of tamarisk trees – a kind of flowering bush – 4x4 vehicle, but this is more expensive. The only monsoon air blows in over West Africa. When
found at its base. At the hotter times of year, accommodation option you have in this remote these two meet, huge thunderstorms can be
the temperature out here can soar to over 40 region is a desert camp, but that’s all part of triggered that can set off a haboob. These
degrees Celsius (104 degrees Fahrenheit), and the experience. You probably didn’t commit to a swirling masses of wind-blown sand have
the sand can get even hotter. Take a cue from desert adventure expecting five-star hotels, room stretched over 1,600 kilometres (994 miles)
the locals and cover up with light cottons, bring service and a concierge… unless you’re friends wide in the past, and lifted sand a kilometre
plenty of water and match your mealtimes with with a nomadic prince, of course. into the atmosphere. They’re a fantastic
theirs. You might even consider being buried up sight to watch for the brave and possibly
to your neck in the hot sand for a short while – foolhardy; certainly something a daredevil
no joke! It’s a natural local remedy for muscle stormchaser might want to tick off their
and joint pains, and might be just the ticket after bucket list, although sufficient eye protection
a long day walking or camel riding in the dunes. and respiratory equipment is advisable. And a
nearby bolthole, for really strong events.
If you’ve a bit more time in your schedule then
a four-day excursion to Erg Chebbi could include
a detour through the Atlas mountains to Todra
Gorge, an impressive limestone canyon that
towers 400 metres (1,312 feet) high in places.
And before you make your return to Marrakech, a
trip to the desert wouldn’t be complete without a
stay at an oasis: there’s just the palm-grove-lined
refuge from the desert you’re looking for next to
the town of Agdz, a few hours’ drive along the old
caravan route from Marrakech to Timbuktu.

For a longer dune sea tour and trip into a wilder
part of the desert, Erg Chigaga, which lies further
south of Erg Chebbi and around 64 kilometres
(40 miles) off the nearest road, is a worthwhile
visit. Here, the dunes make Erg Chebbi seem like

77

. MAURITANIA . The Richat Structure is
Rock Formation located in a remote part of

. Highlights . the Sahara in Mauritania
Get a local guide to take you on a

camel excursion to the Eye
Off-road vehicles are another way to get there
Explore virtually by seeing the Eye from above

using satellite images

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Camel tour is probably the most

easily-found form of transport
STAY HERE Very little tourist infrastructure exists

in Mauritania, but camping may be an option
EXPLORE WITH You may be able to get a guide

from the towns of Atar or Ouadane

. Best time to visit .
December, for cooler weather

. Useful websites .

GOV.UK/FOREIGN-TRAVEL-ADVICE/MAURITANIA
responsibletravel.com

wikitravel.org.en/mauritania

Africa & The Middle East

© Landsat 7/USGS/NASA

THE EYE OF THE SAHARA

What is the Richat Structure and how did it form?

It might look like the site where a massive All sedimentary rock layers start out horizontal, Extremely slowly, the dome was eroded by the
ancient meteorite once struck the side of but due to underground stresses they can get elements to expose a ring of concentric circles
the Earth, but this is no impact crater. The folded – either upwards in a convex shape on the ground that are now clearly visible from
Richat Structure – also known as the Eye of (anticline) or downwards and concave (syncline). space. Like the onion layers, these circles indicate
the Sahara – is, in fact, a dramatic geological No one knows exactly why, but millions of years the different bands of rock radiating out from the
formation that appears like a giant bull’s eye in ago a circle of rock strata almost 50 kilometres central limestone-dolomite shelf.
the otherwise barren desert landscape. Located (30 miles) across was uplifted causing an
anticline dome to bulge up out of the Earth’s Richat’s most visible bands of rock (or cuestas)
in the north African country of Mauritania, close surface. We now know this as the Richat are tilted ridges of resistant palaeozoic quartzite
to the historic desert town of Ouadane, Richat Structure. Try thinking of the dome as the top that slope away from the centre and gave it
is a hardened structural dome whose crest has half of an onion where each layer represents a the crater-like appearance that long confused
worn away to expose the underlying layers of different strata of rock. scientists. Some even say it’s the location of
sedimentary rock and minerals. Atlantis, but you’ll have to judge for yourself.

78

TSINGY DE BEMARAHA
Madagascar’s stone cathedrals are a marvel of nature and a metropolis of magnificent creatures

M adagascar is an extraordinary place. Association was established to help the country The hike itself begins in the archetypal Africa & The Middle East
The fourth largest island in the world, it protect and monetise the natural wonder. They dry deciduous forest, home to lemurs and
is home to numerous endemic species, worked with the Malagasy to install a via ferrata chameleons. In fact, this is the only known place
such as the lemur and the fossa, not to mention network of steel cables, pegs and ladders, and in the world where the Antsingy leaf chameleon
the hundreds of native birds, frogs, lizards, trained locals to safely guide visitors around. lives, and the only dry forest the Madagascan
reptiles and insects. Its biodiversity has earned wood rail bird calls home. Deeper in, the terrain
the island the nickname ‘the eighth continent’. Located in the country’s west, the park spans grows rockier and rockier until, soon enough,
However, even by Madagascan standards, Tsingy nearly 100 kilometres (62 miles) in length and is an enormous wall of stone emerges. From here,
de Bemaraha National Park is an oddity. just over 40 kilometres (25 miles) wide. With only adventurers tread between the gaps and crawl
10 per cent of Madagascar’s forests remaining, horizontally through caves. Beneath the ground,
Of the country’s diverse landscapes, this is the Tsingy de Bemaraha provides a safe haven to its you can even submerge in the subterranean
most unusual; a forest of stone, characterised endemic species. The Manambolo River gorge, world of calcareous caves, with thick tree roots
by limestone ‘cathedrals’, beneath which some home to ancient cemeteries, runs by the south driven deep, in search of the hidden waters that
truly remarkable animals thrive. The karsts of the park, and thanks to an abundance of flow here. Above, those seeking to conquer the
are dubbed ‘tsingy’, which roughly translates underground rivers and springs, this unwieldy seemingly unconquerable do their best to mimic
to ‘a place where one cannot walk barefoot’, landscape is capable of sustaining a spectacular the lemur; climbing up ladders, footholes and
or ‘walking on tiptoes’. Formed from shells and array of life. The fossil-encrusted park hosts pegs, towards the skylight.
corals 200 million years ago, the limestone more than ten species of lemur, 50 reptiles, 90
formations rose from the seabed, before being birds and hundreds of plants. Hours of scrambling later, at the top the
eroded by rainwater five million years ago – pinnacles form a fortress of stone, 140 metres
resulting in a vast terrain of pointed, jagged and The journey to the park is a long and bumpy (459 feet) high – complete with rope bridge. The
sharp stone towers, interspersed with trees, ride on dirt roads. Visitors are ferried across the rocks stretch to the horizon, like alien temples;
rising from the bed hidden at their feet. crocodile-infested Tsiribihina and Manambolo trees sway against the stoic formations, while
rivers, before driving through the Avenue of the lemurs hop from steeple to steeple, navigating
The UNESCO World Heritage site is so Baobabs, Madagascar’s most famous tree. True from one forest to another. This is Madagascar at
impenetrable that most of it could not be explorers may opt to canoe over the mangrove- its purest; unexpectedly magnificent.
accessed until the 1990s, when the Antsika lined Tsiribihina River.

Madagascar has earned the nickname ‘the
eighth continent’ due to having an array of

weird and wonderful wildlife

. MADAGASCAR .
Rock Formations

. Highlights .
Take a hiking circuit through the
towering limestone labyrinth
Spot the 11 different local lemur species
Be aware: the park is only open during

the dry season (April-Nov)

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Book onto a shared minibus trip to Tsingy

de Bemaraha with an operator in Morondava
STAY HERE The 3-star Grand Hotel is completely

powered by solar energy
EXPLORE WITH Malagasy-run Sobeha Tours offers trips

to Tsingy as part of a 7-day itinerary

. Best time to visit .
The dry season lasts from May to November

. Useful websites .
MADAGASCARADVENTURES.COM
NATURALWORLDSAFARIS.COM
MADAGASCAR-TOURISME.COM

79

MASAI MARA

Abundant wildlife, vast plains and the annual Great Migration: Kenya’s Masai Mara is a bucket-list giant

S weeping savannahs stretch until the edge Wave after wave, the zebras move first, The scene of opportunistic predators ripping
of the world. The huge sun bursts across navigating their way through the tall grass by apart exhausted wildebeests is not for the
the horizon, and warm winds whip through instinct and memory. Wildebeests, both young faint of heart. Grotesque and at the same time
flat-topped acacia trees, their barks gnarled and and old, follow closely behind. The final frontier, spectacular, it’s a thrilling lesson in the circle of
twisted. Atop, a vulture sits in wait, watching as the crocodile-infested Mara River, makes a life and survival of the fittest. While the exact
a solitary lion saunters slowly through the long treacherous, yet necessary, crossing point. time of this natural wonder is determined by
grass, self-assured and utterly focused. rainfall and grass growth, the entire period
Hesitant, the herbivores pause, sometimes for is one of never-ending action and relentless
Sitting in southwestern Kenya, bordering days – then, all at once, make a choreographed movement. Predators are plentiful and kills are
Tanzania’s Serengeti, the Masai Mara National dash to the other side. Thousands are eaten, common, especially during the early morning,
Reserve spans 1,510 square kilometres (589 drowned or crushed during the death-defying late afternoon and under the cover of nightfall, as
square miles) of unspoiled wilderness. Here, vast crossing. As the fastest, luckiest and most a soundtrack of groaning gnus, cackling hyenas
oceans of golden grassland link murky swamps determined emerge from the water, the perilous and barking zebras takes hold.
and riverine forests. A fragile haven for thousands journey isn’t over. Lions lay in wait ready to
of animals, the Mara, as it’s known to locals, is attack, while hyenas, leopards and cheetahs While the big and small screens have made
home to gazelles, topi, zebras, impalas, buffaloes, trail the sea of beleaguered prey, picking off valiant attempts to do this spectacle justice,
giraffes and wildebeests. But its most famous struggling stragglers. safaris are the only way to truly appreciate it.
residents are the much-heralded Big Five: lions,
leopards, elephants, black rhinos and buffaloes. The Masai Mara is home to
more than 100 mammal,
Offering the best game and bird viewing amphibian and reptile species
not just in Kenya, but the entire continent, the
Africa & The Middle East national park bleeds into several community-
owned conservancies and the ancestral lands of
the indigenous Maasai people. A wildlife-laden
land of sheer natural beauty, it sets the stage for
one of the most spectacular shows on earth: the
Great Migration. Each year, from July to October,
about 1.5 million hungry wildebeests thunder
1,000 kilometres (621 miles) from Tanzania’s
Serengeti to Kenya’s Masai Mara National
Reserve in search of rich, red oat grass to
graze on. While the primordial beasts are
undoubtedly the stars of the show, almost one
million zebras and 500,000 Thomson’s gazelles
join the mass exodus.

Maasai Warriors jump, as part of
the ipid dance, each trying to leap

higher than the others

. KENYA .
Wildlife Reserve

. Highlights .
Look out for the Big Five and migrating

beasts while on safari
Visit a local Maasai village to learn

about their culture
Take a hot air balloon ride at dawn

to track wildlifefrom above

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Masai Trails offer guided hiking tours

of the reserve

STAY HERE Basecamp Masai Mara has luxury
tents fitted with bio-flush toilets and solar power

EXPLORE WITH Sun Safaris has a sustainable
9-night tour focused on community preservation

. Best time to visit .
September to October (to experience the Great

Migration without the crowds)

. Useful websites .
MARATRIANGLE.ORG
MASAIMARANATIONALPARK.ORG

KATOKENYA.ORG

80

A concept born amid Kenya’s plains, the word eared foxes can also be found here. Herds of the national bird of Kenya, perch gracefully atop
safari means ‘journey’ in Swahili. 40 elephants – affectionately known as the branches – until the male takes off, rising to great
‘gardeners of the savannah’ – graze lazily, while heights before darting and diving towards the
Aside from the Great Migration, the compact hippopotamuses bathe in the muddy waters earth, letting out loud cries.
boundaries of the Masai Mara offer prime of the Mara and Talek rivers. Blue-bottomed
safari territory all year round. Overflowing with baboons watch on from the safety of whistling Foraging birds share the clear Kenyan skies
wildlife, the park has recorded more than 100 thorn trees, as do hungry lionesses with cubs with 57 raptor species, including the African fish
mammal, amphibian and reptile species within to feed – eyes fixed on their next meal. The eagle and African pygmy falcon, the continent’s
its bounds. vegetation-loving, bad-tempered black rhinos smallest raptor, as well as the lesser-known, but
prefer the denser bushland of Ngama Hills or the distinctive, secretary bird – a terrestrial hybrid
The plains between the Mara River and the Mara Triangle. One of Africa’s most endangered with an eagle-like body and crane’s legs. Vultures
western Esoit Escarpment are best for big game species (just a few dozen remain in the Mara), freewheel through the thermals, devouring the
viewing – especially the eagerly anticipated sightings are rare, but all the more magical. remains of hyenas, buffaloes and even lions. The
title match between lions and the world’s park is also an opportunity for enthusiastic bird
fastest mammal: cheetahs. When these two Not to be outdone, the Masai Mara’s winged watchers to check the elusive yellow-mantled
big cats aren’t going head to head, female residents are just as impressive, with 540 bird widowbirds, cinnamon-breasted rock buntings
cheetahs teach their young how to hunt – a species calling the Kenyan stretch home for and purple grenadiers off their lists.
necessary lesson of survival – by playing at least part of the year. Kingfishers, marabou
long, protracted games of cat and mouse with storks and fishing owls flit around the Mara Towards the northeast of the park, the beautiful
injured antelope. River, while, close by, large flocks of mohawked Loita Hills climb 2,150 metres (7,054 feet) from
crested guinea fowl seek refuge in the bank-side dry flatlands to tangled jungle. While Loita, which
Elsewhere, hyenas and vultures circle buffalo forests. Ostriches and hornbills hunt for fruit, as translates to ‘the forest of the lost child’, remains
carcasses, reluctantly sharing their territory with pairs of brightly coloured lilac-breasted rollers, relatively untouched by development, it’s home
the distinctive Masai giraffe, the world’s largest to a large population of Maasai who protect the
subspecies. Topi, jackals, antelopes and bat-

“THE MASAI MARA OFFERS PRIME Africa & The Middle East
SAFARI TERRITORY ALL YEAR ROUND”

81

THE UGLY FIVE

Early-morning hot air – where guests can enjoy a more intimate Travellers to Masai Mara will likely be keen
balloon rides are a novel experience, away from the crowds. to tick off the Big Five, the most sought-
way to track animals over after wildlife sightings in Africa, however
large distances At conservancies, Maasai guides lead curious few consider searching out the plain’s more
visitors on bush walks, where game is tracked unlovable beasts – the scavengers and back-
using spoor (footprints) and scat (droppings). stabbers with violent reputations and horrible
The chance of crossing paths with lions, looks. Nicknamed the ‘Ugly Five’, the band of
elephants, hyenas, buffaloes, giraffes and rhinos misfits includes the marabout stork, warthog,
makes this a heart-pounding experience, and wildebeest, vulture and spotted hyena.
one that is not permitted in the national reserve.
Along the way, unusual bugs and plants, rarely Known as ‘The Undertaker’ due to its
noticed from a car, are discovered to a constant hunched posture and jet-black ‘cloak’, it’s
crescendo of crickets. believed the marabou stork’s bald head has
evolved to prevent coagulated blood and
The Mara Naboisho Conservancy, a 50,000- flesh sticking to it as it gorges on carcasses.
acre plot bordering the Masai Mara National Ruthless and conniving, the hyena often
Reserve, is the second largest in the region, with targets the young, weak and injured. While
an abundance of wildlife to rival any national park. its evil laugh is enough to send most running,
Home to around 100 lions, and whole herds of its bite is one of the strongest in the animal
elephant, giraffe and zebra, it’s a place where kingdom – powerful enough to crush bone.
visitors can come face to face with some of the With dark-brown feathers and a taste for flesh,
world’s most remarkable beasts. the carrion-eating vulture has long been seen
as opportunistic and bloodthirsty.
Africa & The Middle East precious parcel. Teeming with wildlife, colobus The fastest animal on
monkeys swing overhead, as forest pigs and earth, the cheetah can The iconic double-tusked warthog is one
bushbuck forage for food – a rare living example reach speeds of up to of the Ugly Five’s more desirable sightings,
of traditional cultures and wildlife coexisting 112kph (70mph) thanks in large part to The Lion King’s
in frangible harmony. These hills also bear loveable Pumba – but generally they are
witness to the annual Northern Migration, a Hordes of wildebeest cross the crocodile- considered cowardly and exceptionally
smaller, but no less magnificent version of the infested Mara River during the Great unattractive, thanks to their coarse hair,
Great Migration, where 300,000 zebras and Migration from Tanzania’s Serengeti lumpy faces and exaggerated under-eye bags.
wildebeests cross the Mara plains from the Loita Finally, wildebeests might be the stars of
Hills, come the first March rains. the Great Migration, but the rest of the time
they’re seen as wildly ungainly, and a little
For those keen to experience the wild expanse, dim-witted.
there are few Loita lodges as idyllic as Jan’s
Camp. A resort of safari tents and rustic rooms,
it sits beneath a canopy of trees, making it a
desirable spot for birdwatchers. From here, Masai
Trails offer hikes for those keen to explore the
more remote reaches of Maasailand on foot.
Routes vary from one-day circuits to the 12-day
Great Maasailand Trail, which snakes through the
Loita Hills before plunging down into Rift Valley
and on to Lake Magadi – passing waterfalls, rock
formations and watering holes.

Isolated from the rest of the park by the
life-giving Mara River, the Mara Triangle enjoys
few visitors and has only a couple of lodges
within its bounds. Comprising a third of the
reserve, thousands of animals graze on its
plains, which sit between volcanic hills, swamps
and streams, patrolled and protected by Mara
Conservancy – a group of dedicated Maasai
and conservationists.

Bordering the reserve are a number of
private wildlife conservancies, including Mara
Naboisho, Olare Orok, Mara North, Motorogi and
Ol Kinyei, run by local communities. In return for
leasing their ancestral land for the purpose of
wildlife conservation, the Maasai enjoy grazing
rights and a guaranteed income from visitors.
Here, preservation is a community effort and
education is as important as spotting the Big
Five. As conservancies are closed to anyone not
staying there, they remain largely uninhabited
wildernesses – unlike the main national park

82

Skirting the western edges of the
Masai Mara National Reserve, the

Mara Triangle is home to large
numbers of lions

Since 2014, the number of
elephants in the Masai Mara

has risen dramatically

Meaning ‘coming together’ in the Maasai’s local For those in search of a more immersive stalked undisturbed. As leopards are spotted Africa & The Middle East
Maa language, Naboisho is a symbol of nature experience, homestays offer a chance to live and lying in the shade of the thorned acacia trees, the
in balance. Conservationists, socio-ecologists work alongside the Maasai. Gaining a genuine balloon descends slightly. Gliding towards the
and Maasai leaders work together to preserve insight into their culture and traditions, visitors ground, Thomson’s gazelles dance beneath, and
both its wildlife and cultural heritage, while also tend to cattle, repair huts and fetch water, before hyenas race up a riverbank, having spotted a
improving the lives of local communities. To keep feasting on traditional plates of ugali, cornmeal breakfast opportunity too good to miss.
visitor numbers low, only a handful of exclusive porridge drowned in meat and vegetable stew.
camps operate here, including Porini Mara Camp. Once dusk falls, the lowing of cattle and warm For the technology-tired or those who crave a
Housing just six tents, not only is it surrounded crackling fire are adequate comforts, as are the back-to-basics approach, equine safaris beckon.
by an abundance of resident game, but it also countless glimmering stars, which sequin the Horseback tours vary from one to eight days.
sits close to the Northern Migration corridor black night sky. Longer trips are usually supported by mobile,
between the Masai Mara National Reserve and tented convoys, which drive ahead to set up
the Loita Plains to the east. In Porini camps, 282 Elsewhere in the park, before dawn, patterned camp and prepare dinner. These often explore
hectares (700 acres) are allocated per tent, to balloons begin to expand above blasts of fiery the sprawling Oloololo Escarpment, Olare Orok
guarantee guests seclusion and uninterrupted propane gas. Slowly and silently, they climb 244 Valley and Ol Kinyei Conservancy, cutting through
views of the Plains. metres (800 feet) above the tundra, joined by beautiful savannah, past elephants, lions and
the blazing orange sun, which turns the vast buffaloes, before galloping alongside herds of
For lion-lovers, the private Olare Motorogi African sky red, then pink, then gold. zebras and wildebeests. Since longer adventures
Conservancy calls. Known for its unrivalled big- often zig-zag through areas with big game,
cat sightings, it’s considered the best place to To the south, the purple hills of Tanzania they are only suitable for experienced riders,
see lions in Africa. Within the conservancy, the edge over the horizon. Floating quietly overhead, comfortable in the saddle.
aptly named Porini Lion Camp enjoys an enviably wildebeests, buffaloes, lions and rhinos can be
idyllic locale, just across from the Ntiakatiak With 30 tented suites, a swimming pool,
River, which means visitors can watch boisterous WHERE TO STAY library and sprawling verandas, Angama
hippos play and splash as they dine.
A wide variety of accommodation is available Mara offers a slice of luxury in the wild
Surrounded by 15,000 glorious acres of across the Masai Mara – from basic tents to
conservation land, the tented Mara Bushtops luxury suites. airfield and the animal-rich Mara Triangle just
camp is just a 20-minute drive from the Masai a ten-minute drive away, it’s a luxurious take
Mara National Reserve. Featuring spacious The first permanent tented camp in the on the safari experience.
decked tents, a spa, a 24-hour butler service and park, and perhaps its most famous, Governors’
a swimming pool, it boasts panoramic views Camp occupies prime position on the Mara Entim Camp enjoys its own private stretch
across gently undulating plains and its very own River, awash with hippos and crocodiles. of the Mara River, close to where it meets
salt lick, where animals gather to lick essential the Talek River. Popular wildebeest crossing
nutrients and minerals from deposits in the A high-end option, Angama Mara, meaning points can be seen from the eco-friendly
ground. Here, you can enjoy bird’s-eye views via ‘suspended in mid-air’, fittingly floats above camp, making it a popular choice during the
helicopter tours. the floor of Africa’s Great Rift Valley. With two Great Migration.
small camps of 30 tented suites, a private
Of course, no trip to the Masai Mara is Meanwhile, hidden within the Mara North
complete without an intoxicating cultural Conservancy, the traditional Elephant Pepper
excursion to a local Maasai village. Here, Camp, once a bush camp, offers rustic
manyattas – huts made of grass, mud and cow simplicity, with a dream location and amazing
dung – are clustered together, protected by a Maasai guides.
traditional thorn-bush fence. It’s a place where
pastoral pride is still in play and time-honoured
traditions reign. The red-robed Maasai, with
tightly braided ochre-dyed hair, begin the ipid
– a centuries-old dance, which sees the village
warriors leap into the air with effortless ease
– each attempting to jump higher and remain
straighter than the others.

83

Kilimanjaro’s summit, Uhuru Peak, is
the highest point in Africa, and one of

its most spectacular sights

. TANZANIA .
Mountain

. Highlights .

Scale Africa’s highest mountain on a
guided trekking tour

Go on safari to see elephants, buffalo,
leopards and more

Get great views of Mt Kilimanjaro from
the nearby town of Moshi

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Even beginner mountaineers can reach
the summit of Kilimanjaro – just make sure you’ve

got a good guide!

STAY HERE Kilimanjaro Eco Lodge lies at the foot
of nearby Mount Meru, and grows its own fruit

EXPLORE WITH EcoAfrica Climbing has
pre-scheduled tackles of the Machame

and Lemosho routes every year

. Best time to visit .
May to October for most reliable

weather and warmer water

. Useful websites .

TANZANIATOURISM.GO.TZ
KILIPORTERS.ORG

gladysadventure.com

Africa & The Middle East KILIMANJARO

Tanzania’s mighty Mount Kilimanjaro is a friendly giant even novice hikers can conquer

Stretching 5,895 metres (19,340 feet) above mongooses and elephants. But, given the Popular, despite being longer and more
sea level, not only is Mount Kilimanjaro foot-traffic, sightings are extremely rare. arduous then Marangu or Rongai, the Machame
Africa’s tallest peak, it’s the highest Ascending, the wildlife diminishes, replaced with route encourages gradual acclimatisation –
free-standing mountain on Earth. Instantly loose scree, rock walls and glaringly blue glaciers, giving trekkers longer to adapt by climbing high
recognisable, the solitary snow-capped massif until the otherworldly moonscapes of and sleeping low. The trail passes through
erupts suddenly from the flat Tanzanian plains, Kilimanjaro’s highest point, Uhuru Peak, are in lowland forests, moorland and arid deserts,
looming strikingly high above the acacia forests sight. Standing on the summit before the iconic before pushing onto the glacial fields and icy
and scrublands. sign, there’s only the briefest of moments to bask precipices of the snow-crowned Kibo. The
in the whipping winds, carrying the pink morning 40-kilometre (25-mile) route is steep, but
Technically a dormant volcano, which erupted clouds ever closer. remarkably scenic.
from the surrounding savannah more than one
million years ago, Kilimanjaro has been seducing A geological behemoth, and one of Africa’s Snaking across the north-eastern side of the
travellers for decades. Since no technical skill most awe-inspiring sights, every adventurer mountain, Rongai attracts fewer climbers than
is required to get to its peak, it gives uninitiated worth their salt dreams of standing on the Roof the other routes, given its remote starting point
climbers the extraordinary opportunity to reach of Africa. More than 20,000 attempt to conquer at the Kenyan border. The seven-to-eight-day
one of the world’s seven summits. its summit each year, using one of its seven trail offers up solitude, wilderness and wildlife, as
routes – Marangu, Machame, Rongai, Lemosho, antelope, elephant and buffalo roam these parts.
To the soundtrack of birdsong, trekkers voyage Shira, Umbwe and Mweka – though not all are Wandering through rural heartlands, it provides
from the emerald-green forests, overflowing recommended to tackle. a rare opportunity to witness traditional Chaga
with ferns, sycamore trees and junipers. Utterly village life first-hand.
mesmerising, the changing landscape takes The oldest and most direct of all Kilimanjaro
explorers through five different ecosystems, and routes, the 35-kilometre (22-mile) Marangu Not technically a route, the Northern Circuit
an evolving display of exotic flora, fauna and passes through vast grasslands and cacti fields is a combination of existing trails designed for
wildlife. Giant trees gilded in usnea, or ‘old man’s before winding across alpine meadows, set the crowd-averse. The 86-kilometre (53-mile),
beard’, offer brief shade to the delicate flowering against dramatic mountain peaks. The only route little-known detour is the longest, but quietest
buds of St John’s wort. Overhead boubous, with hut accommodation – the others require way to Uhuru, if time and money are no object.
green wood hoopoes and silvery cheeked you to take your own tents – it’s a cheaper trail, Commencing at Lemosho, it traverses the north
hornbills call the Tanzanian mountain home. As but given the limited acclimatisation period, has side of the mountain, approaching the summit
do blue monkeys and olive baboons, leopards, lower success rates. via Gilman’s Point.

84

WHITE DESERT

Nothing will prepare you for the other-worldly experience of seeing Egypt’s incredible natural sculptures

I f you want a trip that is truly out of this world, shells of these animals accumulated on the sea under the stars surrounded by the White Desert’s
you’ll be hard pressed to find a destination floor, forming sedimentary rocks. When the sea towering rock sentinels. At sunset and sunrise
that feels more alien than Egypt’s White dried up, it was replaced by a lush landscape these take on a magical orange glow before
Desert National Park. Located close to the oasis that eventually disappeared also, leaving the turning an eerie ghostly white under the faint
town of Farafra (a four-hour drive southwest of sun-drenched desert that exists today. Wind and light of the moon. If you are lucky, you might also
the country’s capital, Cairo), this extraordinary sand then went to work eroding the softer rocks see the endangered slender-horned gazelles that
area looks like the surface of another planet and leaving only columns of harder material that live in the area.
many more years of weathering have molded
because of the bizarrely shaped geological into a range of different shapes. If you prefer something more private, there
formations, called ventifacts, that decorate its are several operators who will drive you to the
otherwise-barren surface. The easiest way to get to the White Desert is location and either give you a 4x4 tour of the
on a bus tour from Cairo. For the full experience, desert or set you up with local Bedouin guides.
The many odd shapes of these formations choose one that includes an overnight stay at Whichever way you choose to explore the park,
are the result of an almost unbelievable history. Bahariya Oasis and visits to the quartz ridge though, you’ll find it hard to come back down
This area was once the bottom of a shallow sea at Crystal Mountain and the Black Desert. The to Earth after experiencing the White Desert’s
occupied by millions of creatures with calcium highlight, though, will be a prearranged camp-out unique landscape.
carbonate shells. Over millions of years, the

The White Desert’s bizarre . EGYPT .
rock formations are the Desert
relics of an ancient sea
. Highlights .
Get up in time to see the landscape at sunrise Africa & The Middle East
Take binoculars to look for the area’s rare gazelles
Take a tour by camel for an authentic experience

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Long-distance buses operate from Cairo, but

you’re better off going with an organised tour

STAY HERE Desert Rose Ecolodge not only has its own
water well and fresh produce farm, it also uses entirely

Egyptian cotton bedlinens

EXPLORE WITH Desert Eco Tours are the largest
sustainable operator in the region

. Best time to visit .
November to February, for bearable temperatures

and cool nights

. Useful websites .
EGYPT.TRAVEL

MEMPHISTOURS.CO.UK
DESERTROSEECOLODGE.COM

85

THE DEAD SEA

Do not let the word ‘dead’ put you off – there is plenty of adventure on the Jordanian border

T he Dead Sea, bordering the West Bank zoo inside makes it a family-friendly destination. wolves, bats, snakes, frogs, crabs, various birds
and Jordan, is a beautiful destination that Meanwhile, the Ein Gedi Nature Reserve is and much more. Be sure to soak up the unique
will both surprise and amaze you. The where you can see one of the largest groups of environment of Jordan’s wonderful oases before
startling blue waters are ten times saltier than Nubian ibexes in Israel, as well as hyraxes, foxes, you move on to your next destination.

the sea, consisting of 34 per cent salt. While its The Dead Sea is a rare ecological find . JORDAN/ISRAEL/WEST BANK .
name reflects the brutality and hostility of its with its ecosystem completely toxic Inland Sea
ecosystem – the sea is ‘dead’ due to its high to plants and animals, meaning that
salinity, which prevents fish and aquatic plants travellers will have to flock further . Highlights .
from living in it – it is an inviting location for afield to experience the beautiful Read a book while floating on the water’s surface
hundreds of thousands of visitors every year. wildlife Jordan has to offer
At 431 metres (1,414 feet) below sea level, the Let your skin soak up the Dead Sea’s minerals
Africa & The Middle East location is the lowest point on the entire planet, Ride a cable car up to the Masada ruins
shared by Israel and the Palestinian Territories
on the western side and Jordan on the east. . Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Tourist buses run from both Amman in
With water so saline that it takes on an almost
silky texture, and air so rich in oxygen that it Jordan and Tel Aviv in Israel
protects skin from sunburn, the natural beauty STAY HERE Mujib Chalet Village is owned by
of this area is brimming with wonders and Wild Jordan, and income from the hotel supports
bursting with skin-friendly therapeutic minerals conservation and local community programmes
that reportedly combat the effects of aging and EXPLORE WITH Desert Eco Tours has the best range of
skin ailments. To truly experience the natural itineraries in Israel, Jordan, and even Egypt
elements the Dead Sea has to offer, visitors
should bask in the waters of Ein Bokek Beach. . Best time to visit .
Nearby spas like the Ein Gedi Spa allow you to March to May (to avoid scorching temperatures)
slather yourself in invigorating black mineral
mud scooped from the floor of the Dead Sea. . Useful websites .
STEPINTOJORDAN.COM
Also to be discovered in close proximity is
the Masada National Park. A UNESCO World DEADSEA.COM
Heritage Site, cable cars make for an easy BRITANNICA.COM/PLACE/DEAD-SEA
ascension (290 metres (951 feet) in three
minutes) to the ruins. Located on the far edge
of the Jordanian desert, Masada (Hebrew for
‘fortress’) is an ancient fortification steeped
in a riveting history. The area is the dramatic
backdrop for one of the final episodes of the
Great Revolt against Rome. Instead of fighting
against the Roman Empire in 73 CE, at the
end of the First Jewish-Roman War, the Sicarii
rebels chose to commit suicide. Fast forward
two millennia and the place where they took
their final stand is a beautiful mesa overlooking
the northern basin of the Dead Sea; while up
on Herod’s Western Palace, views take the
eye over an immense gorge and the expanse
of the entire valley. A further hour’s trek along
Snake Path, an iconic hike in Israel, gives you
the optimum view for the sunset over the awe-
inspiring landscape.

From breathtaking heights to the wonders
on the ground, with more than 1,000 varieties
of flora and another 1,000 species of cacti, Ein
Gedi Botanical Garden is a fascinating area
to explore. For starters, it is the only botanical
garden in the world that people live in, but if you
combine its residential element with the gentle
hiking trails, endearing wildlife and the pièce
de résistance, the park’s stunning waterfall, the
garden is full of amazing surprises. A petting

86

The trees at Deadvlei . NAMIBIA .
reach up out of the sand Desert
as if clawing at the sky
. Highlights .
See the skeletal trees at Deadvlei
Hike to and swim in the Naukluft River
Visit the NamibRand Nature Reserve and join a safari

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Go sandboarding with a responsible tour

company for an exhilarating experience

STAY HERE Elegant Desert Lodge and Eco Camp runs
entirely on solar power – there’s a lot of it in the desert

EXPLORE WITH Try to find a responsible tour that
offers respectable, considered contact with local

Himba and San tribespeople

. Best time to visit .
The weather is best in Namibian autumn, from March

to May, and spring, from August to October

. Useful websites .
MET.GOV.NA

NAMIBIA-TOURS-SAFARIS.COM
SOLITAIRENAMIBIA.COM

Africa & The Middle East

NAMIB-NAUKLUFT

The oldest desert in the world is also one of the most accessible

I n the world’s oldest desert, the landscape Visitors come to explore the dunes – and it you to one of the most incredible landscapes on
literally moves as time flies by. The can be a real adventure. Jump in a 4x4 or hike Earth. This white clay pan is full of dead trees,
shimmering golden dunes shift as the winds across the sands on foot for a multi-day trail and frozen in time. After the Tsauchab river flooded,
blow and seasons pass. In Sossusvlei, the dunes you’ll soon find yourself deep in the Namibian this pan was filled with shallow pools which
rise an incredible 300 metres (1,000 feet) above wilderness. You’ll need a permit and doctor’s helped trees to grow. As the sands shifted and
the underlying rock – making them the largest letter to do the longer hikes, but one-day hikes a drought hit, the trees died. It’s thought that
on Earth. give anyone a chance to see more of the Namib. they’ve stood here for more than 600 years,
Try the Waterkloof Trail, a 17-kilometre (10.5-mile) turning black as the sun scorched them. Now,
It might be called a desert (the Nama word loop that takes you past a frog-infested weir, against the backdrop of white clay, orange sand
Namib means ‘vast, dry plain’), but in truth, this beside pools that are ideal for a quick dip, and up and a blue sky, they create one of the most
place is anything but barren. Thousands of plant a ridge for incredible desert views. iconic images in Africa. If you visit the Namib, a
and animal species survive here, from strange trip to Deadvlei should be an essential part of
insects and tiny geckos to large antelopes and For those that want to embark on a somewhat your stay.
even leopards. more eerie trip, a drive out to Deadvlei takes

87

Kilimanjaro’s summit, Uhuru Peak, is
the highest point in Africa, and one of

its most spectacular sights

Africa & The Middle East . ZAMBIA/ZIMBABWE .
Waterfall

. Highlights .

See the falls from every angle along
the parks’ many trails

Get your adrenaline fix with a bungee jump, gorge
swing, white water rafting and more

Walk with lions at the Lion Encounter Zimbabwe
wildlife rehabilitation centre

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Kayak to the foot of the falls along the

beautiful Zambezi River

STAY HERE Munga Eco Lodge uses recycled
materials, clean energy, and local craftspeople

EXPLORE WITH Lion Encounter Zimbabwe isn’t
just a wildlife centre – it also offers watersports

such as white water rafting near the Falls

. Best time to visit .
February and March

. Useful websites .

ZAMBIATOURISM.COM
PLACES.CO.ZA

livingstonetourism.com

The falls stretch across
1,700m (5,577 ft) and
drop 110m (361ft)

VICTORIA FALLS

Take the plunge in southern Africa at the world’s largest waterfall

Before you even reach Victoria Falls – the more than 500 million cubic metres (17.6 billion and rail bridge overlooking the waterfall, cutting
spectacular 108-metre (354-foot) waterfall cubic feet) of water plunges into the gorge. This through the magical mists as you hurtle at speed
on the Zambezi River in southern Africa – natural wonder is located within both the Mosi- towards the Zambezi River, saved only by the
you will see huge columns of spray rising some oa-Tunya National Park on the Zambian side and rebound of the elastic cord.
500 metres (1,640 feet) into the sun-kissed Victoria Falls National Park (plus a small strip of
air. You’ll also hear the incredible thunder of the Zambezi National Park) on the Zimbabwean side. If bungee-jumping isn’t for you, perhaps
water as it cascades over the lip of a large basalt wander along a path that cuts along the forest
plateau. Little wonder the original name for this It’s something of a natural foaming monster edge, pausing at the Knife Edge Bridge for a
unique sight was Mosi-oa-Tunya, which literally that oozes beauty not only in its own inherent perfect view of the Eastern Cataract – and
means ‘the smoke that thunders’. splendour, but also in the rainbows that it forms experience of the upward shooting spray. A
thanks to the dazzling sunlight. It can be a little raincoat is a useful accessory, as is a head for
Victoria Falls got its current, most widely frightening in its scale, but there are inviting heights since you’ll be 128 metres (420 feet)
used name thanks to the Scottish missionary spots close by for the brave, particularly on above the river. Meanwhile, in the dry season,
and explorer David Livingstone back in 1855, in the Zambian side near to the ‘devil’s cascade’, there is a chance to walk along the top of the
honour of Queen Victoria. It straddles the border where you can enjoy a crystal-clear, natural Eastern Cataract and enjoy the same view
between Zambia and Zimbabwe, where it is swimming pool. There is also a jaw-dropping Livingstone had way back when. For the rest of
bound by low sandstone hills, and it turns what is bungee-jumping location, where adrenaline the year, there is no such opportunity, as the
a generally placid river into a pounding torrent as junkies can leap from the British-built steel road water roars at its splendid best.

88

SPITZKOPPE

These formations in the Namib Desert offer a glimpse into a prehistoric past

N amibia is a land of endless horizons, of today it welcomes hikers of all levels. Tougher the mountaineers are off scrambling, birding Africa & The Middle East
untamed desert and wild Africa. Even by ascents require true grit, taking climbers up enthusiasts can busy themselves searching the
geological standards, this is an ancient friction slabs and cracks over more than 100 cliffs for the quirky Rüeppell’s bustard, Stark’s
land. Towards the western coast of the Namib traditional and bolted routes. No matter how lark, Layard’s warbler and even the endemic
Desert, rising from a vast flat plain is a series hardened, mountaineers will find themselves Herero chat.
of bald granite peaks – a natural monument so overjoyed with the range of landscapes to
primordial that it was the site in 2001: A Space navigate. One can only truly appreciate the There are a number of camping options in the
Odyssey where man first discovers tools. scale of the island peaks by negotiating a long area – from the bungalows of the local community
crack, or hanging from a steep cliff, with the vast Spitzkoppe Camp to the minimalist chalets of
This is Spitzkoppe, or ‘Pointed Dome’, an desert seeming to stretch forever into the distant Spitzkoppen Lodge, complete with swimming
oasis of reddish rounded bornhardt rock horizon. From the ground, such hardy explorers pool. The latter is perfect for those seeking a
peaks, towering 1,784 metres (5,853 feet) look like ants. balance of hearty outdoor adventure and modern
high. Nicknamed the ‘Matterhorn of Africa’, the comforts. Hot showers and restaurants are the
mountain is a mecca for climbers. Formed 700 However, even on foot there’s plenty to explore, name of the game in an area otherwise devoid of
million years ago, it was eroded 130 million years with arch and rock pools, caves and all manner food and drink outlets. However, many prefer to
ago into the dreamy island formation we see of geological formations. While novices can fill pitch a bush camp and rough it in perhaps the
today. The hunter-gatherer bushmen who lived their boots strolling the five-hour Pontok trail to greatest outdoors of them all.
here as far back as 2,000 BCE left behind stone a lookout point atop Spitzkoppe, the Matterhorn
artefacts and rock art that appear to depict Route is an eight-hour scramble. Meanwhile, the With one of the world’s most impressive
rain-making rituals. Rain transforms the plains seven-hour Bushman Circle takes trekkers up palettes to play with, the sunset over the
surrounding Spitzkoppe and the adjacent Pontok chains to Bushman’s Paradise, home to one of mountains is nothing short of a genuine spectacle.
mountains into life-giving grassland. Namibia’s most prolific rock art collections. However, the headline act starts at nightfall when
an unpolluted sky opens up the heavens, revealing
Though the mountain might have posed a For the solace-seekers, Spitzkoppe is also a celestial performance one can only experience
serious challenge when first summited in 1946, a bona fide bird-watching bonanza. While in the heart of Africa.

Rising 1,784 metres . NAMIBIA .
(5,853 feet) high, Mountain Range
Spitzkoppe is a series of
granite peaks, bursting . Highlights .
from the plains of the Learn about early human history in the rock carvings
Namib Desert
Hike to the summits to look out over the desert
Bring your binoculars so you can search for rare birds

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Take a 4x4 into the heart of the desert,

before letting your guide take you on foot

STAY HERE Spitzkoppen Lodge features eco-friendly
design, including natural heating and cooling systems

EXPLORE WITH Namibia Eco Tours offers 12 and 4 day
itineraries that explore the entire country, including

the Namib and Spitzkoppe

. Best time to visit .
The weather is coolest from June to September

. Useful websites .
SPITZKOPPE.COM

SPITZKOPPENLODGE.COM
ALARDSBIGWALLCLIMBING.COM/NAMIBIA.HTM

89

BWINDI

IMPENETRABLE FOREST

If you go down to the woods of Uganda, you’re sure of a gorilla surprise

N estled in the southwestern corner of opportunities to see them interacting with their National Park, as it is recommended that gorilla
Uganda is forest so prestigious, it is natural habitat. With the help of the numerous expeditions are booked a year in advance, due to
often referred to as one of the best travel guide providers, visitors of the park can limited availability. The most opportune months
national parks in all of Africa. Positioned on the watch these majestic creatures as they go about for seeing these mountain apes is June through
misty hills of Bwindi, dense rainforest spans their daily lives and behold their nest building to September, avoiding the country’s two rainy
over 300 square kilometres (184 square miles) skills, childish play and camaraderie. seasons between March to May and ending
and is home to a wealth of wildlife. Appropriately in October and November. Tracking gorillas,
named the impenetrable forest because, with its As inherently breathtaking as this spectacle however, does come at a cost – around £475
army of around 160 species of towering trees in of African wildlife is, gazing upon its seemingly ($600) for the experience. This one-off fee is to
addition to some 100 species of fern, stepping endless grandeur from the comfort of your obtain a gorilla tracking permit separate from
personal swimming pool or communal campfire the cost of a guide and is necessary to join an
into the forest feels like entering planet Earth is a view like no other. Dotted along the edges of expedition. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, the
at its most pure. Surrounded by a cacophony this forested fortress are countless local lodgings national park is managed by the Uganda Wildlife
of calls from endemic birds, elephants and spanning the entire spectrum in hospitality and Authority, who seek to ensure the safety of both
monkeys, the forest is a truly immersive luxury. From sleeping beneath the stars at a travellers and the species that dwell within the
experience in nature. However, the stars of the backpackers campsite to the extravagance of an park. To reach the park, it’s a seven- or eight-
show in these forests are certainly the local open balcony overlooking the lush green canopy hour drive from Entebbe International Airport to
mountain gorillas. With more than 60 per cent at a private lodge, Bwindi can accommodate Bwindi, but planes can also be chartered from
of the world’s population of mountain gorilla any explorers journeying through the park. Entebbe to Bwindi.
calling Bwindi park home, the forest is filled with Timing is key when planning a trip the Bwindi

Africa & The Middle East
© Alamy

Situated in the rolling misty . UGANDA .
hills of southwestern Uganda Rainforest
lies a must-see gorilla haven
. Highlights .
Snap a shot of swinging colobus monkeys
Take binoculars to spot foraging forest elephants
Hire a canoe and sail on Lake Bunyonyi in September

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY The clue is in the name – the forest’s

impenetrable nature means jungle trekking is
the best way to see it

STAY HERE Bakiga Lodge is run by an NGO that works
towards getting clean water in the Kigezi region
EXPLORE WITH Bamboo Ecotours has 2 and 3 day
gorilla treks and local experiences
. Best time to visit .
June to September, for the dry season

. Useful websites .
BWINDIFORESTNATIONALPARK.COM
BWINDINATIONALPARKUGANDA.COM

BAKIGALODGE.ORG

90

Table Mountain offers breathtaking
sights – find out for yourself when
you tick it off your bucket list

. SOUTH AFRICA . Africa & The Middle East
Mountain

. Highlights .
Take in an unbeatable Cape Town panorama
Spot a unique mammal on the Dassie Walk

Meet new people on a free guided walk

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY If you want to whizz up the mountain in

style, the aerial tramway is the only way to do it
STAY HERE Mountainside Villa features an
incredible natural swimming pool

EXPLORE WITH Hike Table Mountain are a small
business that’ll take you up to the top with ease

. Best time to visit .
November to February (for dry summer weather)

. Useful websites .
HIKETABLEMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA
GOV.UK/FOREIGN-TRAVEL-ADVICE/

TABLEMOUNTAIN.NET

TABLE MOUNTAIN

Experience South Africa’s beautiful Cape Town with a bird’s-eye view

L ooking out over Cape Town (one of South species, many of which are endemic to the steep and tough trek to the summit that requires
Africa’s three capital cities) from the mountain region. an element of physical capability. This is definitely
famous Table Mountain, a clear day will not a trek recommended for beginners as it is
offer a spectacular panoramic view of almost A common sight on Table Mountain’s Dassie quite steep, and it’s recommended that it be
every amazing sight this country has to offer. Not Walk is the rock hyrax, locally known as a dassie, tackled at a steady pace. The route takes between
only will you see the rest of the Table Mountain a small (and very cute) furry animal belonging one and three or more hours to complete.
National Park, but you will also see Table Bay, to the Provavidae family. Although it resembles
the Twelve Apostles Mountain Range, the V&A a small rabbit, it is actually a hoofed mammal There are amazing trails to and around the
Waterfront, Mitchells Plain and the Cape Flats. related to the elephant. Table Mountain is summit that offer the chance to explore the
You should also be able to spot Robben Island, also home to porcupines, mongooses, snakes, mountain further, such as the Dassie Walk, the
the infamous prison island that once housed lizards, tortoises and a rare endemic species Agama Walk, the Pipe Track, Platteklip Gorge,
former president Nelson Mandela, and you can of amphibian that is only found here: the Table the Klipspringer Walk, the Skeleton Gorge Hike
enjoy a bird’s-eye view of the glorious Cape Town Mountain ghost frog. and many more. There are other longer walks
Stadium, which was built ahead of the 2010 FIFA available, while a short guided walk from the
World Cup. Climbing the mountain can be difficult due to Twelve Apostles Terrace departs every hour
the temperamental weather conditions that often between 9am and 3pm and is free of charge.
Free audio tours of the mountain are available bring the aerial cable cars to a halt, but a mild,
that will be able to point out fascinating areas clear day paves the way for tourists to explore a Always pay attention to the weather during your
and deliver insightful trivia about the landscape. little piece of paradise all within three minutes flat. trek, and ensure that you stay as part of a group.
As well as the expansive views right under your If you decide to ditch the cable cars and walk to If all goes smoothly, you will leave Table Mountain
nose, Table Mountain is a World Heritage Site, the summit, then be prepared because although with much more appreciation for its natural
the single richest floristic area in the world and the distance is only three kilometres (1.86 miles) beauty, along with a better understanding of the
home to a number of fascinating animal when starting at the parking lot two kilometres South African culture surrounding its most highly
(1.24 miles) past the lower cable station, it is a regarded natural wonder.

91

. JORDAN .
Valley

. Highlights .
Spot fierce warriors and camel
caravans at the Alameleh Inscriptions
Escape the desert and wander

through Abu Khashaba
Don’t miss the 35m (115ft) high

Burdah rock bridge

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY The only way to get to Wadi Rum is by
road, but once you’re there, travel by camel and

discover Bedouin traditions
STAY HERE Milky Way Ecolodge is a Bedouin camp

located in the heart of the valley
EXPLORE WITH Wadi Rum Tours offers an
Eco Tour, where you’ll meet Bedouin family

members of the tour guides

. Best time to visit .
May to October for most reliable

weather and warmer water

. Useful websites .
WADIRUM.JO

WADIRUMTOURS.COM
wadi-rum.com

Africa & The Middle East

Wadi Rum is sandwiched
between Rift Valley and the

steep Jordanian plateau

WADI RUM

Made famous by the film Lawrence of Arabia, Wadi Rum’s Martian landscape is as mesmerising as they come

Stark, unforgiving and Mars-like, the the east is Jebel Umm Al Ishrin – the Mother of Over 25,000 petroglyphs, 20,000 inscriptions
beautifully desolate badlands of Wadi Twenty. According to local legend, the 20-domed and 150 ancient archaeological sites, dating back
Rum have captured imaginations for mountain was named after a woman who 12,000 years, offer a glimpse into Wadi Rum’s
decades. Known as the Valley of the Moon, it killed nineteen suitors, before being outwitted storied past and mankind’s earliest beginnings.
sprawls across southern Jordan, at the edge of by the twentieth, whom she married. Nearby, Remnants of the great Nabatean and Thamudic
the Arabian Desert. Though this vast ocean of the weatherworn Jebel Al Mazmar erupts civilisations, images of fierce warriors, caravans,
undulating sand dunes and colossal red-rock unexpectedly from the flat sand – its seven native animals and mysterious shapes are
formations seems uninhabitable, Stone Age hulking pillars evidence of aeons of torture by etched onto boulders and cliff faces. Engravings
petroglyphs and lingering Bedouins testify to the elements. Further south, Al Hasany’s dunes of camels – some suckling their calves – can be
12,000 years of human history in the area. unfurl in striking shades of red. Elsewhere, the seen at Jebel Anfishiyyeh, while Jebel Khazali is
monolithic Jebel Ramm, colonnaded Jebel adorned with the carving of a woman in childbirth.
From razor-toothed mountains to wind- Qatar and seemingly impenetrable Jebel Rum
sculpted canyons, Wadi Rum’s ancient trails link continue to lure climbers – the rising sun casting Though jeep tours offer a tantalising taste of
one massif to another. Climbing 1,854 metres shadows over their serrated peaks. Deep in the Wadi Rum, richer experiences are to be had
(6,083 feet) skyward, the fierce sandstone and isolated north, Abu Hawl is a sight to behold, with hiking timeworn desert trails, on camelback or
basalt peaks of Jebel Um ad Dami, Jordan’s larger-than-life carvings of figures, their stumpy camping beneath vast desert skies seared with
highest mountain, offer uninterrupted views of appendages outstretched. unblinking stars, just like the Bedouin who call
the Gulf of Aqaba and Saudi Arabia. Rising in this land home.

92

OKAVANGO DELTA

Discover why this watery wonderland is a magnet for nature and nature-lovers alike

I t might not come as a surprise to find an African Flying into the Okavango Delta during the daytime reveals
safari destination in a book about natural the sheer variety of the landscape, from lush meadows
wonders, but the Okavango offers something a and forested islands to reed marshes and oxbow lakes
little different from the usual suspects…
What makes this region in northern Botswana Africa & The Middle East
stand out from your Serengetis and Krugers is the
prevalence of one of the continent’s most precious . BOTSWANA .
commodities: water. There are wetlands here year Wetland
round, thanks to the eponymous Okavango River
that flows from the highlands of Angola to the . Highlights .
north‑west. The area is technically known as an
alluvial fan; unlike most major waterways, which Explore the waterways, known as “hippo highways”,
eventually spill into the sea, this river terminates in a hollowed-out mokoro canoe

inland, halted in its tracks by the arid Kalahari Get a bird’s-eye view of the Okavango’s wildlife
Desert. Come the winter season, the volume of from a hot-air balloon or light aircraft
water flowing downstream rises drastically, and as a
result the delta’s coverage increases up to threefold. Take a side trip to the nearby Nxai Pan National
The flooded expanse, which at its peak is around 10 Park to marvel at the giant baobab trees
times the size of Greater London, forms a complex
of different habitats including swamps, meadows . Ecotourism .
and wooded islands, all interwoven by meandering TRAVEL BY With an international airport, Maun is the
channels and shallow lagoons covered in aquatic region’s main travel hub. From here, you can charter a
flora like water lilies.
light aircraft or self-drive to Okavango
The Okavango you experience will always be
unique because its features are dictated by water STAY HERE Sitting on Chief’s Island at the heart of the
and sediment levels, papyrus growth and even delta, Oddballs Enclave is a laidback and reasonably
animal movements, so no two years are the same. priced camp that only offers non-motorised activities
It’s magical to think that everything from tiny
termites and their cathedral‑like structures to sumo‑ EXPLORE WITH Cover a greater area and see
like hippos that open up new waterways as they wildlife from the air on a sunrise or sunset tour with
forage all play a part in shaping this special place.
AirVentures Okavango Balloon Safaris
They say that water is the source of all life, and
the Okavango’s biodiversity bears testament to that. . Best time to visit .
Particularly in the dry season, this oasis teems with May to September, for cooler, drier conditions
grazers that come to gorge on the 1,300‑plus native
plant species, and in turn predators are drawn by and less dense vegetation
the bounty of herbivores. Fauna highlights include
the highest concentration of elephants on the . Useful websites .
African continent, hippos, giraffes, white and black
rhinos, crocodiles, painted dogs and red lechwe BOTSWANATOURISM.CO.BW
– an antelope that’s specially adapted to a semi‑ WHC.UNESCO.ORG/EN/LIST/1432/
aquatic lifestyle.
OKAVANGODELTA.COM
Although there are pockets of terra firma in and
around the protected Moremi Game Reserve, and
on the fringes of the delta, where you can indulge
in a classic Jeep safari, you’re missing a trick if you
limit your exploring to a 4x4. There are far more
effective ways of navigating this wetland paradise,
and better yet, most of them are eco‑friendly. Strike
out on a walking tour, plump for a horseback safari
or hire one of the pole‑powered mokoro canoes. All
of these options can get you far closer to wildlife
than any motorised vehicle, while causing the
minimum of disruption.

The Okavango must come with one warning,
however: once you’ve been there, you’ll never look
at any other African safari destination in quite the
same light.

93

THE GREAT RIFT VALLEY
AND AFRICAN LAKES

A land of mighty mountains, majestic lakes and mysterious critters

C arving its way across two continents, eagles and hippos congregate at the oval-shaped Three times the size of Wales,
the Great Rift Valley is a magnificent Lake Ziway. Ringed by dramatic mountains Lake Victoria is the world’s
testament to the power and might of and marshy overgrowth, some five islands are
Mother Earth. Sweeping 6,000 kilometres (3,700 scattered across the lake. One of them, Tulu second-largest freshwater lake
miles) from Mozambique all the way to Jordan, a Gudo, is believed to have once housed the Ark of
series of rift and fault systems form one gigantic the Covenant, having been brought there by King
geographic trench. Formed around 25 million Menelik I, legendary emperor of Ethiopia.
years ago, the valley is scarred by volcanoes,
mountains, escarpments and an abundance of Meanwhile, the largest of Ethiopia’s Rift Valley
stunning lakes, where depressions have filled Lakes are Lakes Abaya and Chamo, linked by
with water and minerals. the so-called “Bridge of God”. As clouds soar
overhead, Lake Abaya is characterised by a
The East African Rift alone runs 3,000 bronze hue, caused by a build-up of sediments.
kilometres (1,864 miles) from Malawi up to the With few fish to chow down on, its crocodiles are
Gulf of Aden. In the north, just 100 kilometres always on the hunt for their next meal. Although
(62 miles) from the Ethiopian capital of Addis Chamo also has its fair share of crocs, who
Ababa, pelicans, wild ducks, storks, geese, fish often like to sunbathe on a stretch known as

Africa & The Middle East “WITH FEW FISH TO CHOW DOWN ON,
THE CROCODILES ARE ALWAYS ON THE

HUNT FOR THEIR NEXT MEAL”

The East African Rift runs
3,000km (1,864mi) from
Malawi to the Gulf of Aden

. EAST AFRICA .
Rift Valley and Lakes

. Highlights .
Soak in Africa’s largest lake, Victoria

Experience the world’s longest
freshwater lake, Albert

Relax and try the fly burgers at Lake Malawi

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Though planes, cars and buses might

be necessary, try a traditional Arabic dhow

STAY HERE Malawi’s Nkwichi Lodge is a luxurious,
yet environmentally and socially sustainable,
Robinson Crusoe-style lodge

EXPLORE WITH Explore East Africa with
Uganda’s sustainability-minded Matoke Tours

. Best time to visit .
June to October for best weather

. Useful websites .
TANZANIATOURISM.GO.TZ/EN

MAGICALKENYA.COM
VISITMALAWI.MW

94

The Dead Sea’s high levels of salt – up across Burundi, Congo, Zambia and Tanzania,
to 33% – mean that sodium crystal Tanganyika’s lower depths date back 20 million
deposits can form on the surface years, among the oldest on the planet. It features
350 mostly endemic species of fish, including
THE RED & DEAD SEAS hitting the Red Sea in neighbouring Eritrea. English Fish, Goliath Tiger, Lake Tanganyika Africa & The Middle East
The Dahlak Archipelago, slightly offshore, is a Yellow-Belly, Bichir and Kapenta. Almost all of
Although the most stunning section of the particularly interesting group of 200 islands. its cichlid species are unique to the lake, as are
Great Rift Valley is the lakes in East Africa, the Occupied since prehistory, they are a marvellous seven of its crabs, half its gastropod molluscs
geological feature technically extends nearly to time capsule from many eras, containing ancient and a third of its copepod crustaceans.
the Mediterranean Sea in Lebanon. water cisterns and Ottoman inscriptions.
The centrepiece of the Southern Rift Valley
Continuing north of Addis Ababa, the Rift The Red Sea is famous for its diving, which you Lakes is the epic Lake Malawi – a gigantic
passes through the wildlife reserves of Ethiopia, can experience in the resort of Aqaba, Jordan. expanse three times as large as Lake Titicaca.
where cheetah, leopards and gazelle roam Here, the Valley follows the Israel-Jordan border At 587 kilometres (365 miles) long, 84 kilometres
across the grassy plains. The rift is parallel to the up to the Dead Sea, before tracing the path of the (52 miles) wide and 700 metres (2,297 feet)
mountains of the troubled Tigray region, before River Jordan all the way up to the Beqaa Valley in deep, this turquoise lake is spread across the
Lebanon – a fertile plain known for its vineyards. borders of Malawi, Mozambique and Tanzania.
Among its 1,000 types of fish – more than North
the “Crocodile Market”, the water is much clearer, Republic of the Congo. Nestled between two America and Europe combined – are hundreds of
and home to catfish, Nile perch and even the forested escarpments, the lake is fed by the endemic species. Inland, baboons roam amidst
occasional hippo. Nile from Lake Victoria, as well as the Semliki leopards, warthogs, hippos and crocodiles.
River, which flows from Lake Edward. South Meanwhile, clouds of what looks like smoke
Further south, as the Rift muscles its way of Lake Edward, the rift gives rise to the drift over the lake’s surface; they’re actually
through Kenya, it gives rise to the fascinating, Virunga mountains, Africa’s oldest and most swarms of the peculiar nkungo lake fly. The
bright green Borogia, Nakuru and Elementatia diverse national park, eventually reaching Lake largest congregation of any species in the world,
soda lakes. Due to high levels of caustic soda, a Tanganyika, the world’s longest freshwater stragglers end up being turned into patties – a
microorganism called spirulina is among the few lake at 660 kilometres (410 miles). Spread local delicacy, fly burgers.
creatures able to survive in these waters – giving
the lakes their distinctive colour. They also play Malawi’s second-largest lake, the shallow Lake
a cameo in one of nature’s great spectacles, as Chilwa, marks the southernmost of the African
four million lesser flamingo flock to the lakes Great Rift Lakes, near the border of Mozambique.
every year to feast on the microbes – filtered Scattered with inhabited islands and stilted
through their beaks. Huge clouds of pink rest fishing villages, it hosts one of the world’s most
upon the green waters, rotating every once diverse bird populations, with epic numbers of
in a while, as the birds drink and preen in the waterfowl, lesser moorhen, lesser gallinule, black
freshwater streams beyond the lake, joined by crake and glossy ibis. It is surrounded by some
locals and their cattle. of Malawi’s oldest forests, populated by python,
spot-tail Tetra, Elegant grasshoppers and the
Running parallel to the East African Rift is the lovely-named Creek rat.
Western, or Albertine Rift, which cuts through
Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi, the Democratic Every year, millions of flamingos
Republic of Congo and Tanzania. Home to flock to Kenya’s Borogia, Nakuru
40% of Africa’s mammals and a fifth of its bird
species, it also has more vertebrate species and Elementatia soda lakes
than anywhere else on the continent. Though
not technically part of either rift, Africa’s largest
lake and the source of the River Nile, Lake
Victoria, sits between the two. Straddling Kenya,
Tanzania and Uganda, with a surface area of
68,800 square kilometres (26,564 square miles),
three times the size of Wales, it is the world’s
second-largest freshwater lake – glittering with
350 species of fish.

A string of lakes and mountains run along the
Albertine Rift, including the northernmost, Lake
Albert, bordering Uganda and the Democratic

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Winding 6,650km (4,130 miles) through
11 countries, the Nile is widely considered
to be the longest river on Earth

Africa & The Middle East . NORTHEAST AFRICA .
River

. Highlights .
Sail away on a multi-day Nile River cruise

Visit Karnak Temple, the largest
religious building ever built

Spot sail boat carvings at the Temple of Edfu

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Traditional wooden sailing
boats or dahabiyas offer an Earth-friendly

way to explore the Nile

STAY HERE The solar-powered Nile
Safari Lodge is nestled on the southern

banks of Uganda’s Nile

EXPLORE WITH Nile Sailing, for thoughtful
four to six day cruises

. Best time to visit .
November to April to avoid the

oppressive summer heat

. Useful websites .
EGYPT.TRAVEL

NILESAFARILODGE.COM
NILESAILING.COM

THE RIVER NILE

This white and blue river is a vein of East Africa

A magnificent stretch of water, the River barren desert surrounding it. Capitalising on the remarkable and most accessible. Highlights
Nile is steeped in myth and legend. annual blessing, the Egyptians cultivated the include the ancient Karnak Temple, which
Fringed by breathtaking sights and land near the Nile, and began growing wheat, unfolds in a forest of sandstone pillars and
historic monuments, it’s a lifeline for millions cotton, flax, papyrus and other crops. With obelisks. The largest religious building ever
living on its banks, and widely considered the agricultural richness, trade and economic stability, built, it was a shrine to the Egyptian Sun God,
longest river on Earth. Slithering 6,650 kilometres came a string of sprawling cities, extraordinary Amun-Re. Close by, two giant statues of the
(4,130 miles), it passes through 11 countries, monuments and rural villages, which erupted pharaoh Ramses II guard the entrance to
before emptying into the Mediterranean Sea. along the Nile’s banks. Luxor Temple. Inside, its walls are adorned
Believed to be over 30 million years old, the with perfectly preserved hieroglyphics and
White and Blue Nile rivers flow north through Today, the fabled river remains at the heart carvings of boats being carried down the Nile.
Tanzania, Uganda, the Democratic Republic of of Egypt’s very identity, and 95% of Egyptians
the Congo, Rwanda, Burundi, Ethiopia, Kenya, live within a few kilometres of its shores. Every A stone’s throw away, the Valley of
Eritrea, South Sudan, Sudan (where the two Nile day, families gather on the riverbank to share the Kings houses the famous tomb of
rivers converge at the capital, Khartoum) and steaming cups of cardamom tea, while lone Tutankhamun, as well as the burial chambers
finally, Egypt. fishermen trawl the day’s catch, and children of Ramses II, Ramses IX and Merenptah,
wallow through the shallow waters in the shadow their brightly painted walls still intact. Further
Powerful and vast, the Nile is more than a of crumbling monuments from lost civilisations. south, the Temple of Edfu is one of the
natural wonder; it’s been a gushing source of best-preserved in the country. Dedicated
sustenance for millennia. Breathing life into Cruises offer a time-honoured way to explore to Horus, the Falcon God, its courtyard is
this once-arid stretch of East Africa, when the the storied river, its tombs, mosques and temples, embellished with exquisitely detailed carvings
river overflowed each year, its banks became while experiencing the natural ebb and flow of sailboats – another tribute to the mighty
increasingly fertile – in stark contrast to the of life on the river. The stretch between Luxor river that gave Egypt life.
and Aswan, in Egypt, is perhaps both the most

96

DHOFAR

A fertile wonderland, nestled between rocky mountain and stunning shoreline

D eep in southernmost reaches of Oman, forming a fertile crescent, rising 1,500 metres – joined by a curious band, including the
straddling the Yemeni border, is a region (4,921 feet) high. chameleon, Arabian gazelle, Nubian ibex, Indian
totally unique among the Arabian crested porcupine and desert hedgehog.
peninsula. Centred around Oman’s sleepy, coastal The phenomenon is perhaps at its most
second city of Salalah, Dhofar weaves a magical iconic at Wadi Darbat, a valley that winds its way One of Dhofar’s most magnificent pieces of
tapestry, between the Hajar Mountains and the towards the Ruri lagoon, dressed in waterfalls, cultural heritage is its historic frankincense trail,
Arabian Sea. thundering down from 100 metres (328 feet). a lucrative ancient and medieval resin industry.
Filled with untouched overgrowth and mysterious The trade is celebrated at the UNESCO-approved
During the summer, as the rest of the Arabian caves, the wadi finds itself filled with visitors, Land of Frankincense, composed of the port of
Peninsula sweats beneath the scorching summer scattering themselves across it, feeding fish and Khor Rori, the harbour of Al Baleed, the oasis
heat, Dhofar bucks the trend. From June firing up barbecues. While goats hop their way caravan of Shisr and Wadi Dawkah – a sprawling
through to September, the province enjoys a up precarious slopes, camels and donkeys take a landscape of 1,200 frankincense trees, each
southwestern monsoon, known as the ‘Khareef’ more measured approach, looking on curiously. producing four kilogrammes (nine pounds) of
season, when a heavy fog flows over parts incense every year.
of Oman and Yemen, breathing life into the Another beneficiary of the monsoon, ringed by
landscape. The phenomenon begins when cold white and magenta water lilies, is Razat Spring – Elsewhere, the stunning coast is marked by
water from the coast chills the winds into a dew, a beloved picnic spot, complete with cave, perfect pristine sand and sheer limestone cliffs, joined
which hurls itself over the land, the two becoming for soaking up views of the region’s falaj irrigation at Mughsayl Beach by a string of blowholes. Off
one. Dhofar’s valleys suddenly spring to life with systems. Elsewhere, at the end of a baobab- the coast, while dolphins leap above the sea
greenery, bursting and spilling out like hungry lined road up Jebel Samhan, the Hajar mountain for air, beneath, coral reefs and kelp forests are
clouds across the dry earth – its mountains range’s highest peak, is a nature reserve, one interspersed with octopus, moray eels, stonefish,
of the last vestiges of the wild Arabian leopard rays, turtles, clownfish, barracuda and more.

With cascading waterfalls, camels Africa & The Middle East
and goats, the luscious valley of Wadi
Darbat is a favourite local hideaway

. OMAN .
Valleys, desert and beach

. Highlights .
Soak in the Khareef monsoon at Wadi Darbat
Explore the frankincense trail at Land of Frankincense

Watch the blow holes erupt at Mughsayl
Beach and go scuba diving

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Take buses and taxis, or hire a private car
STAY HERE Souly Eco Lodge, for a stunningly sustainable

bungalow, amidst a beachside setting
EXPLORE WITH Beautiful Salalah has a team of

knowledgeable Omani tour guides

. Best time to visit .
June to September for the Khareef monsoon season

. Useful websites .
OMANTOURISM.GOV.OM
SOULY-ECOLODGE.COM
BEAUTIFULSALALAH.COM

97

BAOBAB AVENUE
Visit Madagascar’s first natural monument for unrivalled photo opportunities

M adagascar’s most photographed be harmlessly tapped for water during the dry from the capital of Antananarivo, which offers
attractions are undoubtedly its legions season, the young leaves are eaten as salad, and a smattering of modest hotels and restaurants.
of native lemurs – and Baobab Avenue. the sour brown pulp of the hard-shelled fruits From Morondava, you’ll need to hire a bike or
The Avenue refers to a 260-metre (850 feet) is made into a drink all over Africa. Locals have taxi, or join an organised tour, to visit the trees.
stretch of unassuming dirt road on the west even been known to live within the vast trunks. Most tourists arrive in time for the sunset photo
coast, linking Morondava and Belo Tsiribihina, opportunities, but schedule your transport for a
which is framed by dozens of rare and ancient Although these noble trees now stand in little earlier, at about 3pm, and you’ll practically
Grandidier’s baobabs (Adansonia grandidieri). relative isolation, they were once part of a have the place to yourself for a few hours.
Many of these giant trees, which are members of dense tropical forest that fell foul to agricultural
the mallow family, are more than 800 years old deforestation. About 50% of Madagascar’s forest, Entry to the spectacle is free, but the Avenue
and up to 30 metres (98 feet) high. When Arab as documented in 1950, had been wiped out by has become such a popular tourist hotspot
seafarers landed in Madagascar 1,000 years ago, 2000. Thankfully for the baobab, locals consider that locals are now charging a fee for taxis
they said the devil had ripped the Baobab out of them sacred, believing spirits of the deceased (2000 Ariary – about 40p/55c) to be allowed
the ground and put them back upside down, as live within them. The Avenue was granted to park there. It’s ironic that these majestic
their unique canopies resemble roots. temporary protected status in 2007 and in 2015 trees, which have been threatened by the
became Madagascar’s first natural monument. commercialisation of agriculture in the region,
Aside from being so photogenic, Baobabs are now attracting so many tourists, and their
are incredibly useful plants. Their trunks can The departure point for visiting the Avenue spending power, to the region.
is Morondava, a 45-minute domestic flight

Africa & The Middle East . MADAGASCAR . Sunrise and sunset are the
Ancient trees best time to capture incredible
photographs of Baobab Avenue
. Highlights .

Stake out a spot just before sunset for
unforgettable photographs

Shun the crowds and visit at night for
unrivalled stargazing

Tour the diminutive saplings at the
neighbouring Baobab plantation

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY From Morondava, you can travel by
foot or bike in the direction of Belo-sur-Tsiribihina

STAY HERE Kimony Resort carries out reforestation
and provides free water and electricity to nearby

villages. It also has its own animal shelter

EXPLORE WITH SEED Madagascar has a number
of unique and challenging volunteer
placements in Madagascar

. Best time to visit .
Dry season runs from May to October

. Useful websites .

MADAGASCAR-TOURISME.COM/EN
MORONDAVA-KIMONYRESORT.COM

BIT.LY/3SWRPUU

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Socotra is home to many weird
and wonderful plants and trees,
such as this bottle tree in bloom

. YEMEN . Africa & The Middle East
Island

. Highlights .
Take in the scent of pink desert roses
Snorkel in untainted, turquoise seas
Meet Socotra’s diligent, custodian population

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Socotra can only be accessed via air – and

even that can prove tricky

STAY HERE There are a handful of eco-lodges and
eco-campsites on Socotra

EXPLORE WITH Socotra Eco Tours will assist you with
everything from flights to visas

. Best time to visit .
September to April (to avoid the windy season).

However at present, due to civil unrest, it
is nearly impossible to enter Socotra.

. Useful websites .
SOCOTRA-ECO-TOURS.COM
WHC.UNESCO.ORG/EN/LIST/1263

SOCOTRA.INFO

SOCOTRA ISLAND

Yemen’s stunningly bizarre Socotra Island is among the most unusual landscapes on Earth

L ike stepping onto an alien planet, Yemen’s canopy provides shade regardless of the Sun’s A boat-ride away, Shuab Bay is considered by
Socotra Island is as bewildering as they position, reducing evaporation. many to be the most beautiful beach in the world.
come, luring some of history’s diehard Each day, hundreds of spinner dolphins play in
adventurers to its shores – Alexander the Great, Beyond the ecological treasure trove of the cove, while alabaster ghost crabs navigate
Marco Polo and Sinbad, to name a few. Socotra diverse flora and fauna, Socotra – a UNESCO the shallows. The coastal paradise of Kalansia,
World Heritage Site – is home to a mysterious with its powder-white sand and electrifyingly blue
is so geographically isolated – 400 kilometres mix of white sandy beaches, limestone caves, waters comes a close second.
(250 miles) off the coast of Yemen in the Arabian desert dunes and granite peaks. One of the
Sea – one third of its plant life and 90 per cent of most difficult-to-access inhabited islands, Unlike most of Socotra, the Ayaft Gorge is
its reptiles are found nowhere else on the planet. most adventures to Socotra begin in Hadibo – a green oasis, thanks to its unique moisture-
where the skyline is dominated by the Hajhir retaining microclimate. Thick vegetation, natural
Of its endemic species, the dragon blood tree Mountains, thrusting 1,500 metres (5,000 springs and freshwater streams thrive all year
is the most legendary. Some locals believe the feet) heavenwards, like jagged teeth. Snaking round. Ecological diversity continues at the
trees, known in Arabic as ‘dam al-akhawain’ or through the granite massif, hiking trails wind rippling dunes of Stero and wind-swept sand
‘the blood of the two brothers’, grew from the past cucumber plants and squat, bulbous bottle piles of Archer, heaped ten storeys high against
spot where siblings Darsa and Samha fought trees, through frankincense groves and across shoreline cliffs.
to their deaths. Others suggest it was created imposing canyons.
from the blood of a dragon that was wounded Meanwhile, the desert cape of Di Hamri is
fighting an elephant. To the east, Hoq Cave, an underground home to a natural coral reef and unique hybrid
limestone labyrinth, is replete with monolithic of marine life, making it a popular diving and
Either way, its aesthetics are almost as stalactites and stalagmites, as well as centuries- snorkelling spot – expect parrotfish, moray eels,
strange as its mythological beginnings. Atop old rock art. Created between the 1st century stingrays and sea turtles. However, home only
its thick, gnarled trunk, which bleeds crimson BCE and the 6th century CE by seatraders to a handful of nomadic herdsmen, Diksom and
resin, sits a flying saucer-shaped knot of from as far as India, Ethiopia and Greece, the its forest of dragon blood trees, which seemingly
branches with a dense crown of prehistoric, wall drawings portray humans, animals and burst from the savannah-like plateau, remain
skyward-pointing leaves. Having evolved and geometric patterns. Socotra’s biggest draw.
adapted to the arid climate, the umbrella-like

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ASIA HIMALAYAS GOREME

SOUTH ASIA TURKEY

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NANGA PARBAT KOMODO ISLAND

PAKISTAN INDONESIA

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ZHANGJIAJIE TUBBATAHA REEF

CHINA PHILIPPINES

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HA LONG BAY PAMUKKALE

VIETNAM TURKEY

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ZHANGYE KRAKATOA
NATIONAL GEOPARK
INDONESIA
CHINA
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