Wonders of the Natural World

HEAVENLY RIVER GANGES
PIT
INDIA
CHINA
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MOUNT FUJI
LAKE
BAIKAL JAPAN

RUSSIA 122

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- BORNEO’S
RAINFOREST
MONGOLIAN
STEPPES INDONESIA, BRUNEI
AND MALAYSIA
MONGOLIA
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HANG SON
GUILIN AND DOONG
LIJIANG RIVER
VIETNAM
CHINA
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SIGIRIYA

SRI LANKA

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HIMALAYAS

Stretching from Pakistan to Tibet, the Himalayas are Earth’s mountainous masterpiece

Asia E arth’s crowning glory, the Himalayas are a EVEREST BASE CAMP The Everest Base Camp trek passes
formidable, ever-changing monument to the famous Ama Dablam Mountain,
Mother Nature. For soul seekers and the While Everest continues to lure climbers to its one of the world’s most alluring peaks
vertically inclined, the 2,400-kilometre (1,500- icy summit, the base camp trek is an achievable
mile) crescent – stretching from Pakistan, across alternative for those keen to experience the the region’s most beautiful monasteries, and
India, Bhutan and Nepal until reaching Tibet – world’s highest peak. The 14-day trail rises past Dingboche before snaking through Lobuche,
represents both the spirit of adventure and the to 5,380 metres (17,651 feet), weaving past Gorak Shep and onto base camp. The iconic
adventure of spirituality. chalk-white stupas, rushing rapids and across route presents grand views of the world’s tallest
suspension bridges, before reaching the Sherpa mountain and its neighbours, Lhotse and Nuptse,
The region boasts some of the greatest town of Namche Bazaar for acclimatisation. The bathed in pink rays of light, every evening.
geodiversity on the planet: the highest mountain trail continues to Tengboche, home to one of
and the deepest ravine, wild rhododendron Those wishing to follow in the footsteps of the
forest and high-altitude desert. But it’s no ancient trails, lined with spinning prayer wheels. 1953 British expedition can take an alternative
wilderness. More than 53 million people call this On clear days, the craggy, snow-blanketed trail from Jiri, in the beautiful Solukhumbu
massif home; a vibrant patchwork of cultures Everest obliges, providing a jaw-dropping region. For those unable to hike, the North Base
and communities, threaded together by ancient backdrop – particularly when the huge tangerine Camp in Tibet can be reached by car (bar a short
pilgrimage and trading routes. sun announces dusk and dawn. Away from the stroll) and offers unbeatable Everest panoramas.
popular trails of Everest and Annapurna, the
Since Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary 17-day Manaslu teahouse circuit rolls out of the and peaceful terraced fields, following the ancient
conquered Everest in 1953, the world’s highest jungle across photogenic suspension bridges salt trading route.
peak has remained the jewel in the Himalayan
crown. While it welcomes 600 summit attempts For adventurous souls willing to brave rough
each year, 1,314 kilometres (817 miles) away in roads and high altitudes, the tiny kingdom of
the western reaches of Pakistan, K2 – the world’s Mustang beckons. Closed to the world until 1992,
second-highest mountain – often goes years it remains somewhat untouched by modern
without a single attempt. mode – a land of crumbling fortresses, neglected
gods and lunar landscapes. There’s a humble
Considered the last frontier, first summited majesty to this long-forgotten realm, where, for
in 1954, K2 remains largely unconquerable. a fortunate few, no-longer princes still welcome
Mythical but deadly, one in four who attempt it visitors into their private homes. Elsewhere lies
perish. And while it’s the preserve of the world’s one of Earth’s greatest archaeological mysteries:
most elite climbers, its trail to base camp hovers the man-made Mustang Caves. Sculptures,
within the grasp of mere mortals. The journey paintings and preserved bodies, at least 2,000
begins in Askole, the last village in the Braldu years old, dot the 10,000-chamber complex.
Valley, passing Masherbrum and the Trango
Towers, before Concordia, the misty base camp From long-forgotten empires to the last-
located between two glaciers, unveils itself. surviving Himalayan kingdom, Bhutan is an
otherworldly time capsule; the country’s national
While only the hardiest of hikers are drawn identity and traditional values remain steadfast,
to Pakistan’s remote corners, the Nepalese as it carefully embraces newfound modernity.
Himalayas maintain a delicate balance of comfort With more than 155 temples and monasteries,
and adventure. High mountain paths follow dating back to the 14th century, the Paro Valley
is a poignant starting point. The iconic Taktsang
“THE WORLD’S HIGHEST PEAK REMAINS Monastery, known as the Tiger’s Nest, clings to a
THE JEWEL IN THE HIMALAYAN CROWN” sheer cliff face, floating 900 metres (3,000 feet)
above a carpet of oak forest. A steep two-hour
The more challenging of the two popular K2 climb, up stairs hewn from rock, culminates in a
base camp descents requires mountaineering sudden burst of colour. Prayer flags adorn every

skill, but offers up amazing views in return

102

According to some historians, the Tibetan
Buddhist monastery in Lamayuru was
originally built as a Bon temple

surface, and nooks are crammed with tsa-tsas, Taktsang Monastery was built in 1692 near a cave . SOUTH ASIA . Asia
miniature shrines made by monks from the where the guru Padmasambhava, who introduced Mountain Range
ashes of the dead. Buddhism to Bhutan, was said to have meditated
. Highlights .
A change of pace awaits in Tibet, where ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT Visit the world’s highest palace in Lhasa, Tibet
the country’s charm lies as much in its quiet Go off the beaten path in Pakistan’s Himalayas
resilience as its scenery. The monasteries of Travellers have been singing the praises of
Lhasa still vibrate with murmured mantras, a the 206-kilometre (128-mile) long Annapurna Eat your weight in dal bhat in Nepal
testament to the population’s unshakable belief. Circuit for decades. While there are certainly . Ecotourism .
Meanwhile, the red and gold Potala Palace, the more challenging and remote treks to be
highest in the world, is not only an architectural had, the trail remains the most captivating, TRAVEL BY Take an overnight train
marvel but the former residence of the Dalai thanks to its route around the heaven-piercing from Delhi to Dharamsala
Lama – with one thousand rooms linked by Annapurna range. Most circuits begin at
butter-lamp-lined corridors. Today, it houses the Besisahar, run anticlockwise and include a (Himachal Pradesh) via Pathankot
tombs of eight Dalai Lamas, alongside gilded one-hour detour to Poon Hill, one of Nepal’s STAY HERE Shangri La is a lovely retreat with
statues and hand-painted Buddhist scrolls. most famous viewpoints. Trekkers arrive via astonishing views of the Western Himalaya
Ghorepani village in time for a spectacular
Further afield, in the wilds of western Tibet, the EXPLORE WITH Nepal Eco Adventure sells
pyramidal Mount Kailash rises from the Barkha 103 treks and safaris in Nepal, Bhutan and Tibet
plain. One of the most mystical sites in Asia, it
is a holy cynosure of four religions: Buddhism, . Best time to visit .
Hinduism, Jainism and Bon – the shamanistic March to May and September to November
religion of indigenous Tibetans.
. Useful websites .
For hardy travellers willing to break further WELCOMENEPAL.COM
into the isolated badlands of the country’s far
west, a lost kingdom awaits at Tsaparang. Ruined BHUTAN.TRAVEL
residences and Kashmiri-influenced art, including ABOVETHEHIMALAYA.COM
sculptures depicting cosmic visions, lead to a
muralled underground palace, hidden deep in the The Annapurna Circuit winds
eroded desert gorge. From the outside, it looks harmoniously through
like any other mountain, its wondrous innards
betrayed only by a small sculpture, offering a hint both Hindu holy sites and
of the magnificence within. Buddhist villages

Hemmed between supernatural mountains sunrise over Annapurna and Dhaulagiri.
and perilously high passes, India’s Ladakh, or Weaving through almost every ecosystem
Little Tibet, unfolds in a dizzying display of jagged
peaks and bottomless valleys, brought alive by Nepal has to offer – banana tree jungles,
turquoise and emerald high-altitude lakes. Home paddy fields, alpine ridges and semi-desert –
to both Tibetan Buddhists and Kashmiri Muslims, the trail twists and turns until the Himalayas
Ladakh is a melange of mud-brick dwellings, begin to reveal themselves in tantalising
mosques and Buddhist treasures. morsels. Propelling hikers into a mouth of
granite and limestone fangs, the climax of the
The ancient monasteries of Lamayuru, Thikse trail is the 5,416-metre (451-foot) tall Thorong
and Alchi, filled with red-robed monks, spill La Pass, the circuit’s highest point. A road
over rocky peaks. Sun-faded flags flap over now runs through the circuit, but it carries
painted murals and white-washed stupas, relatively little traffic, and those in search
while prayer wheels, stamped with the mantra of heightened solitude can take alternative
‘Om mani padme hum’, beg to be spun three routes across some sections.
times – granting safe passage through the most
treacherous, and wonderful, of Earth’s creations:
the mighty Himalayas.

The picturesque Fairy
Meadows are home to roaming
musk deer and brown bears

Asia . PAKISTAN .
Mountain

. Highlights .
Hikers should keep an eye out
for the elusive brown bear
Camp at Fairy Meadows for spectacular

sunrises and sunsets
Head to the base camp of the world’s

ninth-highest mountain

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY From Gilgit, the best way to get to Nanga

Parbat is by hiring a local driver
STAY HERE Travellers can camp at Fairy Meadows or

stay in one of the log cabins
EXPLORE WITH Apricot Tours is dedicated to

employing locals from nearby villages

. Best time to visit .
April to May or September to October for empty trails

. Useful websites .
APRICOTTOURS.PK
TOURISM.GOV.PK

NANGAPARBATADVENTURE.COM

NANGA PARBAT

The legendary peaks of ice and stone few have dared to scale

V ast, mythical and unforgiving, Nanga reach its icy summit in 1895 but disappeared gorges to the summit in just 25 short kilometres
Parbat rises 8,126 metres (26,660 feet) – their bodies remain hidden somewhere on (16 miles) – making it one of the world’s greatest
above sea level, like a never-ending wall the mountain to this day. Decades later, Italian elevation gains in such short a distance.
of rock and ice. The ninth-tallest mountain in brothers Reinhold and Gunther Messner climbed
the world, this forbidding peak towers above the Nanga Parbat’s south face in 1970, though While the heady heights of Nanga Parbat
Indus Valley in magnificent isolation, dominating tragically, only one returned. continue to lure elite climbers from across the
Pakistan’s remote western Himalayas. Nanga world, the picturesque hike to its base camp,
Parbat – derived from Sanskrit for “Naked Countless more attempts were thwarted by which rises to around 4,000 metres (13,100 feet),
Mountain” – is a powerful yet potent ode to the real and constant threat of shifting glaciers, is attainable for most. The scenic trail begins in
Mother Nature. Rising suddenly from the extreme storms and massive avalanches – Tatu village, before weaving through the idyllic
arid climes of the Indus, it unravels in a maze virtually every snow-blanketed slope threatens to Fairy Meadows. Abloom with wildflowers and
of deadly precipices and soaring ridges. Its let loose at any moment. The notorious peak had juniper trees, its log cabins – complete with
otherworldly appearance has mesmerised claimed 31 souls before it was finally summited roaring fires – offer a picture-perfect place to
adventurers for centuries. in 1953 by renowned Austrian alpinist Hermann rest and recuperate, while musk deer and brown
Buhl. While the mountain’s southern Rupal Face bears roam the grassland. As the trail continues
Dubbed “Killer Mountain”, this Himalayan peak is considered the highest mountain face in the through Beyal, verdant conifer forests give way
is steeped in tales of tragedy and loss, having world, rising 4,600 metres (15,000 feet) above to arid expanses of snow and ice, before the
played host to some of the most mysterious its base, its northern face climbs 7,000 metres immense Nanga Parbat unveils herself, quite
ascents of all time. Climbers first attempted to (23,000 feet) from one of the world’s deepest suddenly, in all of her unadulterated glory.

104

ZHANGJIAJIE
NATIONAL FOREST PARK
This mountainous paradise in China is a feast for the eyes

A natural wonderland perfect for a fantasy- fog is well worth the exercise! Take a cable car For those after an adrenalin hit, the Zhangjiajie
inspired getaway, Zhangjiajie National back down to the exit for an easy descent. Glass Bridge is 430 metres (1,410 feet) long,
Forest Park is a jaw-droppingly stunning and six metres (20 feet) wide, and spans two
mountainous region with views to die for. Located Then, head down below in the east of the park mountains in the park. It has the highest bungee
in northwest Hunan in China, it was recognised and you’ll end up on the route of the Golden Whip jump in the world, at 300 metres (984 feet) high!
as the country’s first national forest park in Stream. Spanning 7.5 kilometres (4.6 miles), the Brave the heights and you’ll be treated to an
1982. Once you set eyes on it, you’ll understand Golden Whip Stream is also called ‘the most amazing bird’s-eye view of the canyon below. If
why, with its subtropical dreamscape filled with beautiful valley of the world’. With its serene, quiet that’s too much excitement, the Bailong Elevator
dense, lush forests; verdant valleys; beautiful and winding waterway surrounded by waterfalls may be a better fit. At 326 metres (1,070 feet)
streams; crystal-clear waterfalls, incredible rock and cliffs, you’ll see how it got its moniker. high, this glass lift is the highest and heaviest
formations; endless caves; steep cliffs; and outdoor lift in the world.
towering, quartz-sandstone pillars that have not Here, you can also be awed by the 3,000 plant
only filled the imaginations of Chinese painters species that make up the forest, which covers 98 You can book a tour around the mountains to
over the centuries, but also inspired Avatar’s per cent of the park. Or you can seek out the wild make it quicker to see all the sights, but if you
Hallelujah Mountains. The most magnificent of macaque monkeys, Chinese water deer, clouded go alone, a ticket to the park costs RMB¥248
them all is the 1,080-metre-high (3,543-foot- leopard and critically endangered Chinese giant (£27.50/$38) during peak season (1 March to 30
high) pillar called the Southern Sky Column. salamander – all of which call the park and the November) and is valid for three days.
surrounding UNESCO heritage site, Wulingyuan
Hike up to Huangshi Village early in the Scenic Area, their home. There are plenty of other Be sure to kit yourself in comfortable hiking
morning and you’ll be face to face with the national forest parks nearby, such as Yangjiajie, gear and long-sleeved tops even in the summer,
mythical stone pillars. Though the thousands of where you can be engrossed in the Kingdom of as it can be cooler in the park than in the rest
stone steps might be a bit of a slog, seeing the Vines or study elegant white cranes; or Tianmen of Zhangjiajie city (from which the park takes its
pillars rising slowly out of the rolling mists and Mountain, which has an impressive keyhole cut in name), thanks to the luscious vegetation in the
its side. forests that cover most of the area.

Though resembling karst, the pillars are Asia
actually made of quartz sandstone and

formed via physical erosion

. CHINA .
Rock Formation

. Highlights .

Visit the mountain that inspired James Cameron’s
animated blockbuster

Ride the impressive Bailong Elevator
to descend into the valley

Cross the Zhangjiajie Grand Canyon Glass Bridge

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Hiking through the valleys is the only
way to appreciate the true scale of Zhangjiajie

STAY HERE Eco hotels are a bit sparse, but
Harmona is designed based on the Chinese
elements of gold, wood, water, fire, and earth

EXPLORE WITH Zhangjiajie Tour Guide offers a
range of tours to suit every budget

. Best time to visit .
April to October

. Useful websites .

TOPCHINATRAVEL.COM
TRAVELCHINAGUIDE.COM
ZHANGJIAJIETOURGUIDE.COM

105

HA LONG BAY

Visit Vietnam’s splendid Ha Long Bay and explore caves and beaches

A long the northeastern coastline of guided tour of some of the most exciting parts When you’re not kayaking through caves or
Vietnam, and 175 kilometres (109 miles) of the Bay. Visit floating villages to see how the exploring beaches, take a visit to the Sun World
from the city of Hanoi, is Ha Long Bay; an locals live in homes built on water and explore Ha Long Park – the biggest amusement park in
area of more than 1,600 islands and islets covered hidden caves around the likes of the Thien Cung Southeast Asia. The park sits just on the shores of
by rainforests and lined with golden beaches. The Cave and the Sung Sot (Surprise) Cave, taking Ha Long Bay, providing entertainment and rides
giant limestone rocks are a hot spot for cave you through underground passages and corridors for all the family. Enjoy a ride on the impressive
exploration, swimming, snorkelling and trekking. to see what these giant limestone rocks are cable car across to Dragon Park, or check out the
hiding. And, when you’re not cruising along on a Typhoon Water Park to experience a selection of
Staying on a boat is the best way to experience boat, kayaking is the best way to get around the thrilling rides.
everything that Ha Long Bay has to offer, and Bay. If you opt for a tour, then kayaks are usually
whether you choose a rough-and-ready junk included as part of the excursion. Trekking should also be a part of your itinerary
boat, or the more comfortable all-inclusive cruiser while visiting Ha Long Bay. Make it to the top
option, it’s worth staying for at least one night on The island of Tuan Chau is host to beautiful of Poem Mountain for rewarding panoramic
the water to make the most of your trip to Ha sandy beaches lined with palm trees, as well as views over the surrounding area, and visit Cat
Long Bay and the surrounding attractions. resort complexes and tourist attractions that Ba Island for a quieter, less crowded escape.
draw in crowds all year round. Accessible via the This is where you can rent a scooter and ride
Organised group tours run out of Hanoi, taking two-kilometre (1.2-mile) road from the mainland, up and down the incredible island to witness
you on a round trip to Ha Long Bay with full-day Tuan Chau is the perfect place to stop off for a few spectacular mountains and breathtaking coastal
excursions starting at a reasonable £25 ($32). nights in a comfortable two or three-star hotel roads. Staying on Cat Ba Island for a night or
This often includes transfer from Hanoi, and lunch and to explore Ha Long Bay – or to just kick back, two is recommended before heading back to the
is also provided. Once in Ha Long Bay, expect a relax and take it all in. bustling urban sprawl of Hanoi.
four to five-hour boat trip that will take you on a

Asia . VIETNAM .
Coastline

. Highlights .
Stay overnight on a luxury junk boat
Discover centuries-old fishing villages
Spelunk secret caves to learn about geology

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Paddle through the floating villages

on a traditional rowing boat or kayak
STAY HERE Cat Ba Eco Lodge has traditional
stilt houses that embody local Muong culture
EXPLORE WITH Eco Friendly Vietnam focuses

on Ha Long Bay’s less-touristy places

. Best time to visit .
February to April

. Useful websites .
VIETNAM.TRAVEL/HOME
VIETNAM-GUIDE.COM
CATBAECOLODGE.COM

Between the limestone isles
and the rustic junks, Ha Long

Bay truly is a dreamscape

106

. CHINA .
Rock Formation

. Highlights .
Capture the rocks in the light of sunrise
View China’s largest reclining Buddha
Stand at the western end of the Great Wall

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Use the park’s shuttle bus to reduce

congestion and your carbon footprint

STAY HERE The big corporations, such as
Holiday Inn in Zhangye City, have the best

sustainability practices in the area

EXPLORE WITH Zhangye Travel visits a couple
of eco-tourism spots in the area

. Best time to visit .
The weather is best from June to September,

and extremely cold in winter

. Useful websites .
WILDCHINA.COM

CHINAHIGHLIGHTS.COM
ZHANGYETRAVEL.COM

Zhangye’s Danxia landscapes, formed of Asia
compressed layers of sandstone and other
minerals, joined the World Heritage List in 2010

ZHANGYE
NATIONAL GEOPARK

Nestled in China’s westernmost reaches is a landscape of heavenly and otherworldly wonders

W hile China’s northwest frontier is a this area is perhaps the closest thing to an out- intriguing network of grottos, caves, platforms
rugged land of desert and mountain, of-body experience. and winding staircases.
Zhangye is home to a truly alien
landscape unlike anything you will have seen Meanwhile, local tourists flock to the Ice Valley Though two to three hours by car or train, it is
before. Here, once a crucial post on the Silk Road, to hunt unique rock formations, forming pagodas, also possible to sneak in a visit to Jiayuguan Fort,
rising rainbows of stone stretch to the horizon, pillars, temples and even Buddhas. Rather more the most westerly frontier of the Great Wall of
like an ocean of psychedelic fire. These Danxia, muted, these reddish outcrops jut upwards, China. Guarding the narrowest point of a desert
China’s steep landscapes developed on red coated in soft layers of vegetation. The Buddhist valley, this fortress was built of loess, rather than
sedimentary beds, were formed of compressed imagery rife throughout the valley is fitting, given the typical stone and brick, and served as the
layers of sandstone and other minerals, then the abundance of nearby monastic marvels. country’s gateway to Central Asia. The western
raised by tectonic activity and sculpted by the Gate of Conciliation, built in 1506, doubled as an
forces of Mother Nature. The aptly named Giant Buddha Temple, dating exit point for banished citizens, who scribbled
back to 1098, houses the country’s largest lamentations on the exterior Gate of Sorrow.
Zhangye Danxia National Geological Park is reclining Buddha, alongside 18 clay sculptures Also nearby is China’s very own ‘Grand Canyon’,
largely split between the Colourful Hills Scenic and Qing murals. At 35-metres (115-feet) long, Pingshanhu, which comes complete with a
Area and the Binggou Ice Valley, each with the wooden structure is housed in a magnificent leisurely winding hike around its remarkable
numerous spectacular viewing platforms, easily temple, complete with Ming-era stupa – otherworldly formations.
accessible via the park bus. The Colourful Hills supposedly the site of Kublai Khan’s birth.
are an overwhelming visual feast; in places, it is While few sights can rival sunset over the
as if a rainbow were stamped onto the rugged Elsewhere, Mati Si, or Horse Hoof Temple, is Colourful Hills, one alternative is Zhangye
terrain, in others, impressionist ribbons of bright a spectacular set of labyrinths named after an National Wetland Park; a peaceful oasis along the
hues dart upwards as if trying to touch heaven. alleged heavenly horse hoofprint left in one of Heihe River. A combination of river, marsh and
Sections are given eccentric nicknames, such its many grottos. From a distance, it looks as if a artificial wetlands, the park is home to hundreds
as Sleeping Beauty, Huge Scallop and Monkeys giant has punched holes into the mountain and of plant and animal species. Amidst a backdrop
Viewing the Sea of Fire. A hot air balloon ride over then stuffed them with pagodas. The complex, of desert and mountain, it makes for a stunning
carved by Yugur Tibetan Buddhists between send off – courtesy of a bicycle ride for two.
the 5th and 14th centuries, is spread over an

107

GOREME

With a Mars-like landscape, fairy chimneys and underground homes, there’s nowhere else like Göreme

C arved into the rock of Cappadocia, a connected by tunnels, and discover the many park. Tour buses will take you to the popular
region in the very centre of Turkey, is the 10th- and 11th-century rock churches carved after sights and viewpoints, while guided horse treks
town of Göreme. Beyond the town is a Christians brought their religion to the area in the venture off the beaten track and are perfect for
national park of the same name, covering almost time of the Roman Empire. Right in the centre of adventurous visitors. If you want to explore at your
10,000 hectares (24,710 acres) of volcanic rock, the region is the Göreme open-air museum, home own pace, set out on foot and follow the paths
hills and river valleys. Looking like the set of a to rock monasteries and the most impressive of weaving through the valleys and between the fairy
science fiction film, both the town and the park the carved churches. Entrance is 25 lira – around chimneys. To see the landscape in its full glory,
are popular with travellers seeking a landscape £3.40 ($4.30). head up in a hot air balloon; this has become one
unlike anything they’ve experienced before. of Göreme’s must-do activities, and you’ll see
Göreme National Park is as amazing above balloons dotting the sky all year round.
No-one knows for sure when the first people ground as it is below, full of curious structures
settled in Göreme, but the area was definitely known as fairy chimneys or hoodoos. The Once you’ve had your fill of the settlements and
inhabited by 1800 BCE. For hundreds of years natural rock formations, once believed to be the landscape, turn your attention to culture and
conflicts raged between rival groups in the home to mythical creatures, are the region’s cuisine. A stay in Göreme is the perfect opportunity
region, with Göreme often right in the middle most recognisable feature – make sure you have to try Turkey’s food and wine, and to learn about
of their warzones, so the residents of the town plenty of space on your camera or phone before the multitude of empires and societies that have
gave up life on the surface and burrowed deep you visit, because there are photo opportunities called the area home. A popular traditional local
into the rock to stay away from all the fighting everywhere you go. meal is the testi (or pottery) kebab, a meat and
and marauding. Visitors can explore settlements vegetable dish cooked slowly in a sealed clay pot.
There are a multitude of ways to see the

The best way to admire
Göreme’s fairy chimneys is
getting your own wings

Asia

. TURKEY .
Rock Formation

. Highlights .
Take in the view from a hot air balloon

Immerse yourself in history at the
breathtaking open-air museum
Stay inside one of Cappadocia’s famous cave

hotels for a little luxury
. Ecotourism .

TRAVEL BY Horseback or hiking will take you
to the National Park’s hidden corners

STAY HERE The Coza Cave Hotel is inspired by
eco-friendly principles, and brags the highest

rooftop in Cappadocia
EXPLORE WITH Eco Turkey is a UK-based
operator that advocates for responsible tourism

. Best time to visit .
September through November

. Useful websites .
NATIONALPARKSOFTURKEY.COM
HOTAIRBALLOONCAPPADOCIA.COM

ECOTURKEY.COM

108

. INDONESIA .
Island

. Highlights .
Hike up Lawa Darat Gili for breath-taking scenic views

Swim with manta rays at Manta Point
Photograph Komodo Dragons on Rinca

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY You can only visit the island with an official

guide or park ranger, so choose wisely
STAY HERE Bajo Komodo Eco-Lodge, on an island

nextdoor, overlooks the beach
EXPLORE WITH Boat tours are available on Viator

. Best time to visit .
April to December

. Useful websites .
KOMODONATIONALPARK.ORG

VIATOR.COM
WHC.UNESCO.ORG/EN/LIST/609/

Asia

The rugged terrain of Komodo is
unmistakable, with many viewpoints
looking over sandy beaches and islands

KOMODO

Head to this unique park to discover Indonesia’s incredible land of dragons

Home to the world’s largest lizard, the tropical fish, 260 species of coral, and countless will blow you away with stunning panoramic
Komodo dragon, Komodo National Park is marine animals, this is an ideal spot to swim views across Komodo. And no visit to the park is
made up of 29 islands in the centre of the with sharks, manta rays, whales, dolphins and complete without seeing the beautiful Pink Beach,
Indonesian archipelago. Established with the idea more. This is a world-class location for diving, so a picture-postcard setting featuring clear blue
of protecting the island’s eponymous Komodo if you’re visiting Komodo you’ll surely want to get waters, pink sand and pristine coral reefs.
dragon, this national park has grown to protect on board.
many other marine and land animals, including Discovering this park’s surreal landscape and
Travelling to Komodo National Park can be its famous ‘living dinosaur’ reptiles feels almost
buffalo, deer, wild boar, monkeys and rats. done either by catching a ride on an overnight as though you’ve travelled back to prehistoric
The park’s three main islands of Komodo, boat, or by an internal flight (the faster option). times. Day trips around Komodo start at around
Fly direct into Labuan Bajo Airport and grab a £75 ($95), whereas scuba diving packages can
Rinca and Padar make ideal destinations for few nights in the main town before exploring the include both diving and hiking options, which
snorkellers and keen scuba divers, as the other islands, beaches and numerous lookouts offer great value for money when visiting this
surrounding coral reefs support a vast amount located throughout the park. Padar viewpoint one-of-a-kind park.
of marine diversity. With over 1,000 species of

109

Tubbataha Reefs Natural
Park is home to a fantastic

array of marine wildlife

Asia . PHILIPPINES .
Coral Reef

. Highlights .
Explore ships that met their end at the reef

Swim with sharks – just be careful
not to get too close

Get swept up in your diving adventures at the
so-called ‘Washing Machine’

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY The only way to reach Tubbataha is by

joining a liveaboard diving tour
STAY HERE Mountain’s Bay Guest House is situated
in rather green surroundings for Puerto Princesa
EXPLORE WITH Liveaboard tours can be browsed

on the PADI website

. Best time to visit .
April to June, to avoid rainy season

. Useful websites .
TRAVEL.PADI.COM

TRAVEL-PALAWAN.COM
WHC.UNESCO.ORG/EN/LIST/653/

TUBBATAHA

Asia’s greatest coral reef is a natural park, World Heritage Site and an incomparable marine sanctuary

Spread over almost 100,000 hectares in the Tubbataha’s several dive sites is the ‘Washing Liveaboard arrangements are far from spartan
Sulu Sea, the sunken rust-coloured atolls Machine’, where a gash in the coral feeds an and offer private cabins, sumptuous meals and
of Tubbataha attract divers from around irresistible current, helping along a pageant of professional crews who’ll go to great lengths
the world who wish to commune with the reef’s aquatic life. Thanks to the efforts of the Philippine to make their guests’ trip as comfortable as
spectacular aquatic life. One of the Philippines’ government to protect Tubbataha for the past possible. It’s also possible to book night dives
oldest ecosystems, it’s home to more than 30 years, it’s forbidden to poke about the reef for with specific diving operators, usually spanning a
350 species of coral and nearly 500 species of souvenirs, or disturb the fragile ecosystem in any few visits over a week.
fish, and is also a haven for sharks of every size. way. So, you’ll need to be sure you visit the reef
Tubbataha’s two main features are the North and with a responsible tour company. Exploring Tubbataha’s entirety can be a
South reefs, and the highlight of any dive is to challenge since a single day will not suffice
cross paths with either a stealthy manta ray or a Reaching Tubbataha follows a set route for serious divers. There are established sites,
vibrant whale shark. from Puerto Princesa City. Puerto Princesa is however, including locations where divers are
accessible with any local airline, and the city allowed to spy sharks while they are at rest, or
Tubbataha’s North Islet is a renowned nesting is the place to book onto a thrilling liveaboard prowling round immense gatherings of fish. Other
site for birds and marine turtles. Visitors must tour. Typical itineraries cover the Visayas region, species worth watching out for are the chilled-out
take care not to disturb the inhabitants or where so many other breathtaking locations turtles, who have grown accustomed to human
leave any waste. A recurring favourite among are found, along with Tubbataha dive packages. visitors, and the resident jellyfish.

110

PAMUKKALE

Traverse the pools of the White Cotton Castle of Turkey

T here are more than 1,000 UNESCO World who came from afar to sample the famous The contrast between the white terracing
Heritage sites around the world, but only restorative waters of Pamukkale – like you! With of Pamukkale and the rugged ancient town of
one of them is a stunning cascade of white, the fall of Greece and the rise of the Roman Hierapolis, steeped in history and wonder, is
limestone pools, flowing into an ancient town Empire, the Greek spas turned into Roman baths simply incredible. Two worlds collide thanks to
with both Greek and Roman influences. That site and, following a major reconstruction due to an the benevolence of Earth’s geology, making for
is the unforgettable Pamukkale and Hierapolis. earthquake in 60 CE, the town took on a much the ultimate mix of relaxation, wondrous sights,
Situated in western Turkey, Pamukkale is one more Latin feel. fascinating stories and a unique experience.
of the most incredible sights you’ll ever lay your
eyes on. For 14,000 years, natural hot springs . TURKEY . You can see why this natural wonder
Hot Spring was named the Cotton Castle
have been pumping water loaded with calcium
to the surface. As the water flowed down the . Highlights . Asia
valley or evaporated, calcium deposits were left, Transport yourself into Pamukkale’s
resulting in white ‘steps’ made of travertine, a
type of limestone. Given the name Pamukkale – rich Greco-Roman past
‘Cotton Castle’ in Turkish – by the locals, that is Reap the benefits of this mineral-rich water
an extremely apt description for something that Get a top-down view by going paragliding
looks like it belongs in a fantasy novel.
. Ecotourism .
This natural wonder has drawn attention, TRAVEL BY Public buses run from the resort of
partly for its sheer beauty, but also for the
health benefits of bathing in mineral-rich waters. Anatalya to the nearby town Denizli
Around 2,000 years ago, the town of Hierapolis STAY HERE Five-star Colossae features its very
was formed at the top of Pamukkale, and the two
have combined to create one of Turkey’s most own thermal bathing pools
popular tourist destinations. EXPLORE WITH Eco Turkey Travel includes

There is also a rare opportunity to get up close Pamukkale on many of its itineraries
and personal with a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Many are roped off, only to be viewed from afar . Best time to visit .
for safety. However, in Pamukkale you can stroll July to September (for festival season)
along the expanse of travertine, being asked only
to give a small fee and to remove your shoes . Useful websites .
so as not to spoil the incredible structure that PAMUKKALE.NET
has been building ever since woolly mammoths
strode the Earth. Not much to ask now, is it? WHC.UNESCO.ORG/EN/LIST/485
Each step is covered with a shallow pool of warm, TURKEYTRAVELPLANNER.COM
aquamarine water, so if anything the rules work
in your favour as you are made to treat your feet
to a natural foot spa.

If walking isn’t your thing, you can get an
amazing bird’s-eye view of Pamukkale by
paragliding over the site. Once you’ve worked up
a sweat, taking in the wondrous surroundings
of the Turkish landscape from the spectacular
natural wonder, make your way to the top of the
cascade where you can soak your tired limbs in
the thermal pool that is the source of Pamukkale
itself. The 35-degrees-Celsius (95-degrees-
Fahrenheit) water is great for easing aches and
pains as well as more serious afflictions, such
as rheumatism. This is no ordinary thermal pool,
either. The pool, known as the Ancient Pool or
Cleopatra’s Pool, is shaded by cypress, oleander
and palm trees, whisking you back a couple of
thousand years.

The rest of Hierapolis is well worth a look, as
well. The town was founded in the 2nd century
BCE by the Attalid kings, a Greek dynasty. The
town grew around the natural hot springs,
becoming wealthy due to the number of visitors

111

KRAKATOA

Experience world-class snorkelling at the site of one of the world’s most devastating volcanic eruptions

C hances are the last time you heard (4,000 miles) away. Reports claimed the The opposite side of the island is completely
Krakatoa mentioned was during explosion was so loud that the noise carried as devoid of life as molten lava flows down the
geography lessons at school. Krakatoa far afield as Myanmar and Australia. slopes and out into the ocean, where it forms
– or Krakatau, as it’s known in Indonesian – is snaking rock formations. Nearby Legon Cabe, or
the name of a volcanic island located between Of the old Krakatoa, only overgrown “Big Krakatoa”, is about a 20-minute boat journey
Sumatra and Java, in Indonesia. The volcano remnants remain, which look just like any of away and has a beautiful coral reef around one
suffered a devastating eruption that shook the the neighbouring tropical islands. But in their side that offers excellent snorkelling – if you
world on 27 August 1883. Tsunamis created midst, Krakatoa has risen again, in the form can tear yourself away from the superb views of
by the blast are thought to have reached of new volcanic cones, one of which is aptly Anak Krakatau, that is.
40 metres (130 feet) high and destroyed more named Anak Krakatau or “Child of Krakatoa”.
than 165 towns and villages on the mainland, This smaller volcano seems to take after its To reach the group of islands, you’ll need to
claiming some 36,000 lives. legendary ancestor. It’s a highly active cone take a 1.5-hour boat trip from Carita on the west
that keeps growing and erupting. At times coast of Java. It’s possible to join organised tours,
These tidal waves were so extreme that the when it is not too active, Anak Krakatau can some of which involve camping overnight on one
effects were felt as far away as the English be visited by boat and even climbed. There’s of the less active volcanoes, or you can charter
Channel, while the ash clouds that were created a black sand beach running around half the your own boat for a day trip. Whether you’re a
circled the Earth for three years. Shockwaves island with bath-warm waters that are perfect keen geographer who is fascinated by volcanoes,
from the eruption travelled around the Earth for swimming. A band of rainforest fringing the or simply want to witness the might of one of the
seven times and volcanic debris was found beach starts to peter out as the slope to Anak world’s most dangerous geological phenomena,
in Madagascar, more than 6,400 kilometres Krakata’s crater steepens. a trip to Krakatoa won’t disappoint.

. INDONESIA .Asia
Volcanic Islands ©Alamy

. Highlights .

Take a hike up Anak Krakatau, which is one of
the region’s most active volcanoes

Snorkel in the reefs to experience sudden currents
of hot water and chunks of floating pumice
Witness lava flows travelling down the
slopes of Anak Krakatau

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Speed boats are the most common
method of transport from Carita to Krakatoa,
but you can charter a smaller boat. Just ensure

it has life jackets and radios

STAY HERE Coconut Island, in Carita, features
recycled Indonesian wood carvings combined

with modern facilities

EXPLORE WITH Krakatau Tour is a local
tour operator employing many guides and

support staff in the area

. Best time to visit .
Avoid rainy season from November to

March as the seas are rough

. Useful websites .

DISCOVERYOURINDONESIA.COM
KRAKATAUTOUR.COM

KRAKATAUECOTOURISM.COM

Anak Krakatau, the “Child of
Krakatoa”, is highly volatile
and erupts regularly

112

The nearby Yangtze is
the longest river in Asia

. CHINA .
Sinkhole

. Highlights .
Test your stamina at the steps of the

world’s largest sinkhole
Explore the Three Bridges at the

Wulong Karst Geology Park
Sit back and enjoy the scenery on

a Yangtze River tour

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Fly to Chongqing Jiangbei International

Airport, around 20km (13 miles) from the city

STAY HERE Bloom Boutique Hotel, a central, stylish
spot with helpful staff

EXPLORE WITH Yangtze River Cruises, who offer
tailored trips around Chongqing

. Best time to visit .
Visit in September-November to avoid the rain

. Useful websites .
YANGTZE-RIVER-CRUISES.COM
WIKITRAVEL.ORG/EN/CHONGQING

TRAVELCHINAGUIDE.COM

Asia

THE HEAVENLY PIT
(XIAOZHAI TIANKENG)
Xiaozhai Tiankeng was carved out over millions of years

A day trip to a sinkhole in southwestern the bottom of Xiaozhai Tiankeng, you’ll have Exploring Xiaozhai
China might seem unappealing to non- to crane your neck to see the sky, and that’s if Tiankeng is a trip through
geologists. But Xiaozhai Tiankeng in you still have the energy after descending the China’s geological history
Chongqing is no ordinary field trip. Hidden away 2,800 steps. It’s what in Mandarin has become
in Fengjie County’s hilly landscape is a colossal known as a Tiankeng ( ), which roughly sinkhole by foot (and back up again) certainly
sinkhole that geologists believe to be the world’s translates as “heavenly pit”. It’s formed out of two isn’t for the faint-hearted.
largest. At 537 metres (1,762 feet) wide, and up limestone bowls that have been carved out by a
to 662 metres (2,172 feet) deep, Xiaozhai is wide combination of erosion from surface water and a You’ll follow wooden walkways along the side
enough to fit the world’s largest cruise liner and subterranean river below. of the sinkhole, through the cave, passing a small
still have room to spare. temple on your way down. Finally you’ll get to the
Xiaozhai Tiankeng was part of the China Caves base, where the semi-subterranean river flows
It’s named after a nearby ancient village Project, a research initiative set up to explore and you can fully appreciate the full scale of one
and is a famous feature in an area known for unique geological formations. It’s unusually of the world’s biggest sinkholes. Don’t forget to
remarkable natural geography. Wulong, a district biodiverse, too, and is home to 1,285 plant take your camera. And remember: there’s no
in Chongqing, also has the Three Natural Bridges and animal species that include ginko and the elevator, so it’s a good idea to pace yourself on
Geopark, where visitors can explore a collection clouded leopard. the way back up.
of natural stone bridges left standing in the
wake of collapsed sinkholes. Less enthusiastic If you want to visit, ask your hotel or hostel to
geographers may be interested to discover that arrange a driver to take you from Chonqing to
it’s rumoured to have been a filming location for Xiaozhai. Be prepared for an early start. When
Transformers: Age of Extinction. you arrive you’ll find a visitors centre at the
entrance to the national park. It’s a good idea
While suburban sinkholes aren’t usually much to come prepared for a trek and to take some
to look at, this one is something special. From food and drinks with you, as getting down to the

113

. RUSSIA .
Lake

. Highlights .

Explore Shamanka Rock on Olkhon Island
Swim at a Baikal beach for a refreshing dip
Discover Buryat culture along Baikal’s shores

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Get here on the Trans-Siberian, one

of the world’s most iconic railway journeys

STAY HERE BaikalWood Eco Lodge is sat on the
lake’s largest island, but all the mod cons are
available, including pizza delivery

EXPLORE WITH Baikal Safari can transform any
of their itineraries into an eco-friendly one

. Best time to visit .
June to September — don’t get caught

in a Russian winter

. Useful websites .
BAIKALWOODHOTEL.RU/EN/
BRITANNICA.COM/PLACE/LAKE-BAIKAL
WHC.UNESCO.ORG/EN/LIST/754/

Asia

Russia’s Lake Baikal covers an
area larger than Belgium

LAKE BAIKAL

This vast Siberian lake is larger than many of the world’s countries

D ubbed the ‘Galápagos of Russia’, Lake Since active tectonic plates are attempting they raise camels, cattle, horses, sheep and
Baikal is considered to be one of the to tear Siberia apart, the lake is actually getting goats. Their cuisine is mouth-watering.
natural wonders of the world. Situated deeper every year. The clarity of its water allows
in a cleft in southern Siberia, the rift lake is home for great visibility, down to as much as 40 metres The area is also blessed with soaring mountain
to some 2,500 species of animals – 80 per cent (130 feet). This means it’s possible to see the ranges and a surrounding ring of coniferous
of which are endemic. It also holds as much as abundance of fish and mollusc which inhabit forests where bears, birds, lynx, elk, fox and deer
23 per cent of the world’s unfrozen freshwater as the lake. A visit to the bottom can take as much rub shoulders. Back towards the water, there is
well as 1,000 species of plants. as five hours – as demonstrated when Russian the Baikal seal – the only pinniped species to
scientists ventured down to the rocky bed in live completely in freshwater – and the Baikal
The lake, which is fed by 330 inflowing rivers, is 2008. It’s not a journey that tourists are able to sturgeon which swim at depths of up to 150
believed to have formed as many as 30 million embark upon, however. metres (490 feet).
years ago and the stats concerning its sheer size
are certainly impressive. At over 635 kilometres Thankfully, there is also much going on at the But then, the flourishing fauna and flora is
(395 miles) long and just under 80 kilometres surface. The lake is dotted with 27 islands, the exactly why UNESCO awarded the lake the
(50 miles) wide, it has a surface area of just over largest of which is forest-covered Olkhon – a status of a World Heritage Site, marking it as
31,720 square kilometres (12,245 square miles). piece of land so big that it even has its own lakes. “exceptional value to evolutionary science”. Go in
Baikal is also the deepest lake in the world, It is populated by around 1,500 people, mostly winter to see the ice on the lake and go dog-
plunging to a maximum depth of 1,642 metres the aboriginal Buryats who live in five villages. sledding or drive across the surface. Or visit in
(5,387 feet). They also reside to the east of the lake where the summer if you fancy a cool dip. In either case,
you’ll bring back amazing memories.

114

THE MONGOLIAN STEPPES

The sprawling grasslands, where life goes on as it always has

W ild Mongolian grass blows in the wind, winding up hills and wetlands, over the Khyangan To this day, one third of Mongolians continue
flickering past streams and lakes. Mountain Range, towards China. However, far to rely upon the steppes, a land associated with
Mongol nomads ride atop a thunder of from a monotonous sprawling mass, the steppes Genghis Khan. They live in traditional gers – large,
hooves, just as their ancestors have for centuries; host five types of grasses, more than 100 flora round yurts made of felt – producing various dairy
rolling hills seem to run into eternity, before species and scores of endemic, endangered and products, from camel milk to fermented horse
hitting walls of snow-white mountains. medicinal plants. milk, some of it dried on the roofs of their homes.
When approaching a settlement, it is customary
From the rivers of northeast China to the Clouds of white and brown intersperse along to yell “Nokhoigoo” or “Call off your dogs”, and to
forests of Siberia, the Mongolian-Manchurian the dramatic landscape, home to two million expect a generous abundance of hospitality.
steppe is a windswept grassy wilderness – Mongolian white-tailed gazelles – Asia’s last
spanning around 880,600 square kilometres population of migrating ungulates. The most Visitors can not only enjoy a traditional
(340,000 square miles). Winding in a crescent pristine steppe ecosystem in the world, it is home nomadic homestay, but also excursions into the
around the vast Gobi Desert, these fertile plains to all manner of delightful species, from the wilderness with local rangers on horseback, or
have long provided endless grazing land for cheeky Raccoon dog and mole-like Transbaikal atop a roaring 4x4. In the winter, the country’s
Mongolia’s nomads – who once stood on the zokor, to the frightful Asian parti-coloured bat largest cave, the 200-metre (656-feet) long
cusp of world domination. and the radiant great bustard – one of just 174 Taliin Agui, said to emanate healing properties,
bird species to call the region home. As the welcomes adventurers with icy jaws, stalagmites
Frosted over in the winter and delightfully easternmost limit of the Central Asian mountains, and colourful walls. Others may prefer to hike
temperate in the summer, the landscape is at it is also the furthest east the goitered gazelle, around Khukh Nuur, the ‘Blue Lake of Black Heart’
its most magnificent at the Eastern Mongolian buck-toothed Mongolian marmot, Argali sheep – reflecting on the place where Genghis was
Steppes. Devoid of trees, the region boasts the and five-toed pygmy jerboa travel. proclaimed Khan.
world’s largest intact temperate grasslands,

. MONGOLIA . Asia
Steppes

. Highlights .
Enjoy a traditional homestay in a nomadic yurt

Visit the legendary lake, Khukh Nuur, where
Genghis was proclaimed Khan

Roam the grasslands on horseback, among
magnificent steppe wildlife

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Travel on horseback with Horse Trails Mongolia

STAY HERE Steppe Nomads Eco Camp lets guests
stay in traditional gers

EXPLORE WITH Enjoy a variety of tours with sustainable
Mongolian operator, Nomadic Journeys

. Best time to visit .
May to August for lush countryside and growing heat;
avoid the below-freezing months of November to March

. Useful websites .
NOMADICTRAILS.COM
DISCOVERMONGOLIA.MN
STEPPESTRAVEL.COM

The Mongolian-Manchurian grasslands
stretch 880,600 sq km (340,000 sq
miles) from China to Siberia

115

GUILIN AND LIJIANG RIVER

Unique mountains and beautiful rivers make this landscape look like a watercolour painting come to life

Asia W ith its unique verdant peaks reflected BEST TIME TO VISIT Misty views of the Li or Lijang River can
in the glistening jade river, it’s no be just as beautiful as on a clear day
wonder the Guilin and Lijiang River April to June is probably the best time to visit the
National Park has been described as “the best region, as this is when the river is at its deepest temperatures are at their highest in July and
under heaven.” Situated in the northeast of the so boats can travel further and the landscape is August and it’s rainy season, but these are just
autonomous Guangxi Zhuang region and with at its most luscious. It is wet and humid at this short spells. This is also the busiest period
jaw-dropping views round every bend, it is one time of year, however, this also means beautiful for visitors. During September and October
of the most scenic places to visit in China. Its misty views over the peaks. The average the weather is warm and dry and it is less
distinctive landscape is unlike anything you’ve temperature is around 19 degrees Celsius (66 crowded, except during the national holiday
ever seen before. Over 300 years of weathering degrees Fahrenheit). July to October is ideal (1-7 October)
and erosion has formed a dynamic topographical for sunny days and views along the river. The
mix of shapes and patterns. Avoid visiting from November to March.
UNESCO World Heritage city Guilin is the Cruises are shortened at this time, as the
This area of outstanding natural beauty, which perfect starting point as it has an airport and water levels are low. Although there are sunny
covers over 2,000 square kilometres (772 square train station, as well as lots of options in terms days, winter is generally colder and can be
miles), was one of the first batch of national of accommodation and restaurants. The city’s dangerous if you’re hiking.
parks in the country and is unlike most. There’s name translates as ‘Forest of Sweet Osmanthus’
no entrance fee, but you’d definitely pay to see because of a high volume of the fragrant Chinese architecture. A perfect example of this
its dramatic limestone peaks and watery scenery trees. Dating back over 2,000 years, Guilin is a is the Sun Pagoda, the world’s highest bronze
– it’s even been nominated as a UNESCO World beautiful contrast of natural wonders and urban pagoda, lit up at night and reflected in the water
Heritage Site (quite frankly, it’s surprising it on the Two Rivers and Four Lakes scenic spot
isn’t already one). The park boasts 157 rock where Guilin’s waterway system begins. Uniquely
hills, 21 main karst caves and hundreds of shaped Karst hills such as Solitary Beauty Peak
smaller ones. It covers 83 kilometres (52 miles) (Duxiu Fend), Folded Brocade Hill (Diecai Hill)
of river between Guilin and Yangshuo, taking known for its stone carvings and Fubo Hill – half
in picturesque scenes of rural China that have on water, half on land – rise unexpectedly in the
inspired artists and poets for centuries.

One of the best ways to see the area is by
taking a Li River cruise. The jade green Li River
has been listed as one of the top ten watery
wonders by National Geographic and is a
photographer’s dream.

The cruise boat starts at the wharf south of
Liberation Bridge in Guilin and takes four to five
hours depending on the water level and current.
Travel down the river to Yangshuo, past quaint
fishing villages, limestone cliffs, deep caves and
lush green hills each with their own peculiar
name and legend.

A highlight in Yangshuo is Moon Hill Guilin and Lijiang national park
with its crescent-shaped hole is one of China’s best-known
scenic areas

116

middle of the city like friendly, green giants. The The Sun and Moon twin boat. Further south, Ban Bian Du is known as
hills even inspired a scene in the movie Star pagodas lit up at night Half Side Ferry because the huge rock descends
Wars: Episode III. into the water cutting off the footpath and
sights. The 12-kilometre (7.5-mile) Crown Cave visitors have to take a ferry to cross over on the
Also worth a visit in Guilin is the Diecai or Guanyan Cave is a spectacular karst cave same side of the river.
Mountain or Mountain of Splendid Hues named with lighting and sound, which can be viewed
after the varied colour tones in the rock, and the a number of ways including by foot, light rail or The peaceful village of Yangdi, meaning sheep
Reed Flute Cave (Ludi Yan), a 240-metre (787- hooves, lies 50 kilometres (31 miles) south of
foot) long underground grotto. The incredible Guilin and is set against a backdrop of twin peaks
colours and stalagmite and stalactite formations that look like sheep hooves. This is where the
have earned the cave the nickname ‘palace of real highlight of the cruise begins. If you don’t
the arts’.

The Guilin to Ox Gorge section of the cruise
takes you to Elephant Trunk Hill or Xiangbishan
(shaped like an elephant drinking water from
the river), the picturesque Chuanshan Park
where you’ll find Cockfighting Hill, and Daxu
Ancient Town, known for its quaint streets,
ancient temples, historic market and the striking
Wanshou or Longevity Bridge.

South of the Ox Gorge, a long, narrow valley
whose surrounding mountains look like nine
oxen, Wangfu Rock, which looks like a woman
looking into the distance, is just one of the unique

“K ARST HILLS – HALF ON WATER,
HALF ON LAND – RISE UNEXPECTEDLY

IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CITY LIKE
GREEN GIANTS”

The hills in Guilin were used during Asia
the filming of Star Wars: Episode III

. CHINA .
River System

. Highlights .

Try and find all nine horses at
Nine Horse Fresco Hill

Take a bamboo raft so you can go ashore
at Yellow Shoal dock

Pack good walking shoes to climb Moon
Hill for views over Yangshuo

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY For a short journey, consider a

cycle rickshaw to explore the villages

STAY HERE Yangshuo Mountain Retreat began
life as an eco-lodge, but is now a beautifully-
designed bolthole with sustainable principles

EXPLORE WITH Guilin Cycling Tours has
a hybrid bike tour that combines pedal

and electric power

. Best time to visit .
April to June

. Useful websites .

NATIONALPARKOFCHINA.COM
VISITGUILIN.ORG

YANGSHUOMOUNTAINRETREAT.COM

117

Asia Folded Brocade Hill ( is a popular have time for the full Li River cruise, we would
attraction in the park, featuring recommend focusing on the section between
Yangdi and the Xingping. The views along this
magnificent stone carvings stretch are unparalleled. As you wind down the
river, you’ll be mesmerised by the lush green
bamboo groves and jagged limestone peaks
looming over the majestic water. Experience
the tranquility of the authentic rural Chinese
countryside as you pass by water buffaloes
cooling themselves in the river and the traditional
cormorant fisherman on their rafts.

Mural Hill or Nine Horses Fresco Hill is not to
be missed. This 30.5-metre (100-foot) cliff face
looks like a mural with nine horses etched into it,
although most people can only see two. The hill
has five peaks and comes in a beautiful palette of
colours, including yellow, grey and green.

Further downriver is one of the most
spectacular sights in this section: the Yellow Cloth
Shoal. The yellow flagstone below the clear water
makes it look like a cloth lying on the riverbed.
The shoal is so impressive that it is now the
background image on the CNY 20 banknote. It’s
said that one hundred miles on the Li River is like
“one hundred miles of art gallery” and this spot
has one of the prettiest reflections on the water.
Legend has it that the seven peaks overlooking
the shoal were once seven fairy maidens from
heaven who came to bathe in the river. The Jade
Emperor commanded them to return to heaven
but they were so enchanted by the river that
rather than leave, they transformed themselves
into peaks so they could stay forever.

Watch traditional cormorant fishermen fish
with their birds on bamboo rafts

Watch traditional cormorant fishermen fish
with their birds on bamboo rafts

118

The Reed Flute Cave has been
called the ‘Palace of Arts’

Yangshuo pomelos or grapefruits
are sweet and juicy; the leaves
are used to make stuffed buns

EAT LIKE A LOCAL river include Li River fish soup, stuffed Li River
snails and fish. Yangshuo is known for its beer
If you’re taking the Li River Cruise, you’ll be fish. If you’ve got a sweet tooth you’ll want
served a buffet on board, but it’s definitely worth to taste water chestnut cake and horse-hoof
trying local specialities in Guilin, Yangshuo and shaped cake. There are also sweet dumplings
in fishermen villages along the way. You’ll be called Tangyuan made with Osmanthus and
eating Cantonese and Huanese food here so a lot the delicious Yangshuo Stuffed Bun, which
of stir-frying and steaming. Guilin is known for is filled with peanuts and sesame paste and
its sweet and spicy food. Try Guilin rice noodles, steamed with pomelo leaves.
Lipu taro and pork, Ginko stewed with duck or
stewed chicken and gecko. Specialities from the To drink, San Hua jiu, made in Guilin, is a rice
wine, which dates back over 1,000 years and
uses spring water from the region.

If you have time, take a trip up Xianggong Asia
Mountain located between Mural Hill and Yellow
Cloth Shoal. This is the best photography spot The Lijiang River Scenic Zone flows A relaxing alternative to the cruise boat is a
for pictures of the Li River and its unforgettable for 116km (72mi) through Guilin bamboo raft, which is an experience in itself.
scenery. The nearby Xingping Fishing Village and Yangshuo
dates back nearly 500 years. Learn all about No matter how you choose to travel, as the
provincial life as you wander through the stone Yangshuo to the scenic bridge over the Yulong saying goes, art is long and life is short. Don’t
streets and take in the architectural styles of the River. If you enjoy hiking, the seven-kilometre miss out on this natural masterpiece.
Ming and Qing Dynasties. (4.4-mile) trail between Xingping and Jiumahua
Hill and the five-kilometre (three-mile) route from
The final section of the Li River Cruise is from Jiumahua Hill to Xingping are recommended.
Water-Dropping Village to Yangshuo. Highlights
of this section include a waterfall used to make
wine in Water-Dropping Village, picturesque Snail
Hill, which (you guessed it) looks like a snail, and
the smallest peak, Shutong Hill.

Green Lotus Peak (Bilian Peak), which
resembles the flower’s bud, is the last stop on
the cruise. Here you can explore a park, which
boasts a Riverside Pavilion, Old Banyan Tree and
Jianshan Temple. Disembark at Shuidongmen
Wharf or Fu’an Wharf near the Shutong Hill.

To end your journey, discover the UNESCO
World Heritage site of Yangshuo, where you can
explore over 1,000 years of the area’s history.
This ancient city has just as much to offer as
the rest of your trip with picture-postcard
countryside, strange-looking hills, the bamboo-
lined Li and Yulong Rivers, acres of emerald green
rice paddies and orchards growing deliciously
sweet pomelos and kumquats. Visit West Street,
Yangshuo’s oldest road, for a taste of city life
from the ancient architecture to shops and
restaurants. Or climb up the 800 stairs to reach
the top of Yangshuo’s iconic Moon Hill, a giant
rock with a crescent-shaped hole in its centre.

As well as the River Li Cruise, visitors can
explore the area by bicycle, foot and bamboo
raft. One of the most popular biking trail runs on
the Shili Scenery Gallery View Road from central

119

THE RIVER GANGES

India’s most famous river ties together its fascinating history

Asia T he 2,510-kilometre (1,560-mile) Ganges – of hair. Ganga split into different streams that Pilgrims cross the river near
or Ganga in Hindi – flows across India and combine to create a river with divine, purifying Rishikesh during the religious
parts of Bangladesh, offering geographical water (known as Gangajal, which you can now
variety and jaw-dropping views. It’s seen history buy online, in bottled form, if you’re unable to festival Kumbh Mela
as turbulent as its rapids in Rishikesh. Above make the journey to Gomukh).
all, the Ganges is renowned for its significance nearly $3 billion to clean up the river by 2020.
across India’s diverse faiths. Even today the Ganges is so revered that By all accounts, it’s still a work in progress, with
India’s Prime Minister Narendra Modi pledged the UN saying in November 2018 that it is still
Gomukh (गौमखु ), near Gangotri, lays claim “woefully polluted”.
to being the Ganges’ most famous source
(yes – there are more than one). Each year However, the Ganges retains its status as
visitors travel from around the world to visit the a pilgrimage site and natural wonder. Visitors
glacial maw in the western Himalayas where to Rishikesh, about nine hours’ drive from
the river emerges. The Ganges flows away from Gangotri, will find jagged mountain scapes and
Uttarakhand’s mountains, across Uttar Pradesh sweeping waterfalls alongside shrines and the
and along to Bangladesh, taking in numerous (now derelict) ashram visited by The Beatles in
tributaries that include Delhi’s Yamuna. It splits the late 60s. The holy city of Varanasi offers a
and weaves together with other rivers through unique experience of India’s faiths, with crowded
the Ganges Delta and meets the sea in the Bay cremation ghats and sunrises so gorgeous that
of Bengal. photos will never do them justice.

“Mother Ganges” runs through one of the 60s subculture certainly hasn’t dented the
country’s most fertile regions, supporting many popularity of the Ganges’ ashrams. You’ll find
of India’s 1.3 billion inhabitants. It’s not just plenty offering tourist-friendly retreats along
economic importance and spectacular scenery the banks of the river, with a variety catering
that gives the river its reputation, either. There’s
also a symbolism that’s tied to the river’s role in
India’s spirituality.

One version of the Ganges’ origin is that it was
created when Shiva allowed the Goddess Ganga
to flow down to earth through his tangled locks

The glacial source
of the River Ganges
in Gangotri

THE SUNDARBANS forest. A three- or four-day boat trip from
Khulna takes travellers into the heart of the
The biggest mangrove forest in the world, the region – where the sedate pace of boat life
Sundarbans is home to the planet’s largest is only interrupted by the thrill of spotting
population of Royal Bengal tigers. Sprawling one of the Earth’s most majestic creatures,
across eastern India and Bangladesh, the along with herons, spotted deer, monkeys
mist-shrouded swamps remain remote and and crocodiles.
inhospitable. Around 400 magnificent (and
man-eating) tigers roam the region’s dreamy, For those short on time or money, a day trip
semi-submerged mangroves. to the Sundarbans can be organised from the
busy Bangladeshi river port of Mongla. From
While the Sundarbans can be explored from there, travellers can reach Karamjal Forest
both India and Bangladesh, the latter offers Station or Harbaria Wildlife Sanctuary, with
the opportunity to venture deeper into the elevated walkways and viewing platforms for
a taste of the wild.

120

to westerners interested in Indian spirituality. remembered your passport (and you don’t mind VISIT VARANASI
Visitors today still flock to riverside ashrams removing your shoes) then you can visit the
for meditation, yoga and religious teachings. Vishwanath Temple, which is devoted to Shiva Each year since the sixth century BCE,
Extreme sports fans can get a taste of adventure and famous for its gold-plated dome. As the sun Indians have made a pilgrimage to the
by rafting around Rishikesh, or hiring a guide sets you can wander to the west riverbank and holy Hindu city of Varanasi to bathe in the
for mountain treks. Travellers interested in the take a perch on the cremation ghats. You’ll be Ganges, burn their dead, meditate and
Ganges’ unusual biodiversity may be lucky able to observe Ganga Aarti, a religious ritual that worship. Situated in the Uttar Pradesh state
enough to spot an extremely rare river dolphin takes place at dusk. Expect a barrage of sights, of north India, it’s the home of the Ganga
across the delta. scents and sounds. If you’re visiting the city Aarti religious ritual and a cultural centre
between October and April then you’ll be able to for the region, known for its 88 ghats along
Cities such as Haridwar are dotted with amble along the ghats more easily due to lower the river, each of which comes with its own
beautiful, crumbling temples and ghats – water levels. spiritual specialities.
riverside steps. Each year a calendar of regular
ceremonies and rituals ensure that the Ganges If you’d prefer to sit back and take in the views If there is one city along the Ganges
is never short of visitors. Prayagraj, where the over a drink, head to the Brijrama Palace, a to visit, this is it. Take a boat on the river,
Ganges, Yamuna and Saraswati rivers meet, sees former Maharaja’s residence with river views and particularly at sunrise or sunset, and your
an annual six-week festival called Magh Mela, decadent interiors. eyes will be blessed with the most serene of
a religious gathering that recently saw around sights. Watch out for dolphins, and be sure
240 million devotees. It’s best to exercise caution with photography. to visit the holy structures, notably the Kashi
Don’t assume that people will be comfortable Vishwanath Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva
Varanasi offers riverside ruins and jaw- with tourists taking pictures, particularly of and with three domes made of pure gold.
dropping spectacle. The city has an old quarter funeral pyres. You may also be asked to cover
with ghats that are used for everything – from yourself and remove shoes if you’re visiting Colourful, lively and with surprises
bathing to funeral pyres. Set your alarm to get up religious sites. One final tip: Locals may tell you around ever corner, Varanasi is the city that
early for a dawn rowboat cruise along the ghats, that it’s safe to swim in the Ganges, or drink from perfectly welds life and death.
taking in the sunrise over the riverbanks. If you’ve it. Feel free to politely ignore them.
An early boat ride along
“VAR ANASI OFFERS RIVERSIDE RUINS the Ganges is a great
AND JAW-DROPPING SPECTACLE” way to experience it

. INDIA . Asia
River

. Highlights .
Stay in a meditative ashram along

the banks of the Ganges
Hike to the glacial origins of India’s

most famous river in Gangotri
Witness religious ceremonies at India’s

famous holy city, Varanasi

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Train from Delhi to Haridwar,

taxi from Haridwar to Rishikesh

STAY HERE Parmarth Niketan Ashram for
riverside meditation and lush gardens

EXPLORE WITH GMVN (Garhwal Mandal
Vikas Nigam): a government operator that

arranges hikes and guides

. Best time to visit .
November to March (for cool, dry weather)

. Useful websites .
PARMARTH.ORG/PUJYASWAMIJI/

GMVNONLINE.COM/
TOPYOGIS.COM

121

. JAPAN .
Mountain / Volcano

. Highlights .
Eat a black egg in Hakone for a longer life
Climb Mount Kintoki for panoramic views of Fujisan
Visit Enoura Observatory, a mixed-use arts complex

overlooking Sagami Bay

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Whizz to the foot of Fuji on Japan’s

incredible bullet trains, the Shinkansen
STAY HERE Hoshinoya Fuji is Japan’s first glamp-site,
offering staggering views of Fujisan and Lake Kawaguchi
EXPLORE WITH Mount Fuji Eco Tours has leisurely

trips in and around the mountain

. Best time to visit .
Early July to mid-September (for climbing season)

. Useful websites .
FUJISAN-CLIMB.JP/EN
FUJIMOUNTAINGUIDES.COM
JAPANESEGUESTHOUSES.COM

Asia Fuji Five Lakes makes for a wonderful
starting point, with plenty of hot springs,
hikes, museums and theme parks to enjoy

MOUNT FUJI

An enduring symbol of the spirit of Japan, Fuji is so much more than a mountain

J apan’s Mount Fuji is one of those rare of passage, a journey along the heartbeat of may need longer to adjust to the change
landmarks of the Earth, a masterpiece of Japan’s very soul. As one proverb states: “A wise in altitude, even if just for a few hours, or
nature – a stoic, cylindrical monument in man will climb Mt Fuji once; a fool will climb Mt those who wish to see the Sun rise over the
perfect symmetry with both the heavens and Fuji twice.” mountain’s summit. More luxurious lodging
the Earth. is available, but this can cost in excess of £55
The mountain is a pilgrimage site, and not ($73) a night – and all accommodation should
Towering more than 3,700 metres (12,100 just for its various Shinto shrines and Buddhist be booked far in advance, especially during
feet) over the prefectures of Shizuoka and temples. Roughly a third of the 300,000 busy periods. Hardy hikers who push straight
Yamanashi, on Japan’s island of Honshu, it has adventurers who scale the mountain every through to the mountain top are rewarded with
long been revered in the indigenous Shinto summer travel from across the world. a delicious meal of noodles, curry or ramen at a
faith as the home of the kami, or spirit, Princess selection of restaurants.
Konohanasakuya. Adding to the allure is its The most popular hiking route is the
status as an active volcano, a gateway into the Yoshidaguchi trail, which begins at Kawaguchiko One of the best ways to enjoy the mountain
planet’s very own epicentre of creation. Gogome 5th station and leads 15 kilometres from afar is with a trip to the onsen, or hot
(nine miles) up towards the summit. This can springs, resort town of Hakone. Its network of
On a clear day, the mountain can be seen be reached from Tokyo via the Keio Express bus railways, cable cars, ropeways and the infamous
more than 80 kilometres (50 miles) away, from from Shinjuku. The trail takes six hours to ascend pirate ships offer fantastic views of the mountain
the cities of Tokyo and Yokohama. Its image has and three to return – a journey that many like – though visibility is notoriously unpredictable.
captured the imaginations of poets and artists to break with a short rest at one of Fuji’s various The Fuji Five Lakes region, especially Lake
for more than 1,000 years – so evocative, it mountain huts. Kawaguchi, at the foot of the mountain, is also
was used by both the Empire of Japan and the home to cherry blossoms and a brilliant base for
Americans during World War II to encourage, and Though only the most basic of respites, a wide array of outdoor activities, from fishing
dissuade, Japanese troops. sometimes comprising a shared space on the to skiing – not to mention the beloved Fuji-Q
floor, these cost around £35 ($46) for a night, Highland amusement park.
Climbing this unparalleled marvel is beyond with hot meals available for an additional £7 ($9).
your average hike; for the Japanese, it is a rite These are ideal for inexperienced hikers, who

122

BORNEO’S RAINFOREST

Visit the world’s oldest rainforest for the chance to glimpse orangutans in the wild

T his rugged island in the Pacific Ocean is more than 100 are endemic, which means deforestation for timber, palm oil, pulp, rubber
shared by the Malaysian states of Sabah they’re only found on the island. If you’re lucky, and minerals. However, the island still has
and Sarawak, Indonesian Kalimantan, you might spot proboscis monkeys swinging the largest stretch of rainforest left intact in
and the tiny nation of Brunei. While the island is through the jungle canopy, pygmy elephants, Southeast Asia, and it remains the third largest
clouded leopards or Bornean rhino, but the real rainforest on earth. The “Heart of Borneo” is
famed for its dramatic coastline, incredible coral draw in Borneo is the chance to see orangutans the name given to a large stretch of intact
reefs and is home to Southeast Asia’s tallest in the wild. rainforest that includes Danum Valley Rainforest,
mountain, Mount Kinabalu (4,101 metres/13,455 a protected national park open to visitors, which
feet), it is its rich, equatorial rainforest that most It’s one of just two places in the world – the provides a rich and irreplaceable home to
visitors come to experience. other being Sumatra in Indonesia – where hundreds of species of flora and fauna.
you can see the orangutans in their natural
Borneo is home to the world’s oldest rainforest, environment. The Bornean orangutan differs Bornean orangutan populations have tragically
which is estimated to have existed for some slightly in appearance from the Sumatran declined by more than 50% in the past 60 years
130 million years, making it twice as old as the orangutan, with a broader face, shorter beard and, although much is being done to protect
Amazon. It provides the perfect habitat for an and it is also slightly darker in colour. them, grasping the chance to see them in their
incredible number of plant and animal species, natural habitat, while you still can, deserves a
including 15,000 plants, 3,000 trees, 221 land As in many tropical areas around the world, spot at the top of your travel wishlist.
mammals and 420 birds. Of these many species, Borneo’s rainforests are being destroyed by

Asia

. INDONESIA, BRUNEI AND MALAYSIA .
Rainforest

. Highlights .
Head to the Malaysian states of Sabah and
Sarawak to track orangutans in the wild
Hire a local guide to spot other endemic species, including
proboscis monkeys, clouded leopards and Bornean rhinos
Track down the world’s biggest flower, the Rafflesia

– but beware of its pungent smell!

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Ferry links between Labuan Island,
Brunei, KK, Limbang and East Kalimantan are an efficient

way of exploring the Bornean states

STAY HERE Borneo Rainforest Lodge, in Sabah’s Danum Valley,
is the only accommodation within the conservation area

EXPLORE WITH Intrepid Travel educates guests about Borneo’s
environmental issues and supports the incredible natural
wildlife that its groups might be lucky enough to see

. Best time to visit .
Dry season runs from May to October

. Useful websites .
VISITBORNEO.COM

BORNEONATURETOURS.COM/LODGE
WWF.PANDA.ORG

Borneo’s Malaysian states of Sabah
and Sarawak are the best places to

spot orangutans in the wild

123

HANG SON DOONG

Awe-inspiring adventure awaits for those who trek the world’s largest cave

Asia I magine a cave so vast that it contains a . VIETNAM .
rainforest, the world’s largest stalagmite Cave
(at some 80 metres/260 feet tall)
and its own weather system. Struggling? . Highlights .
It’s possible to witness all three of these Spot wildlife such as flying squirrels

incredible natural phenomena – and many in the underground jungle
more – by visiting Hang Son Doong, the Scale the 90m (295ft) Great Wall of Vietnam,
world’s largest cave.
a calcite barrier, with ropes and ladders
Part of central Vietnam’s Phong Spot the world’s largest stalagmite,
Nha-Ke Bang National Park, the cave which is some 80m (260ft) tall
was discovered in 1990 by local man, Ho . Ecotourism .
Khanh, who took shelter from a storm at
the foot of a towering cliff in the jungle. He TRAVEL BY From Hanoi, you can take a nine-hour,
spotted a deep hole with puffs of cloud and overnight bus to Dong Hoi, the starting point for tours
wind emitting from it, but didn’t explore
any further until 19 years later when he STAY HERE Camping is the only option once
rediscovered the entrance and a team you’re within cave, but you’ll be well looked
of explorers mapped the vast caverns
beneath. Visitors were first permitted after with three hot meals a day
in 2013. Just 1,000 visitors a year are EXPLORE WITH Oxalis Adventure, the only company
permitted to tour the cave on four-day
treks that run between January and August, running tours, is locally owned and provides
and involve camping underground. employment for hundreds of locals
. Best time to visit .
To give you some idea of scale, Hang Son
Doong is more than 500 metres (1,600 End of January to end of August, during the dry season
feet) high in parts, and was originally . Useful websites .
thought to be 175 metres (575 feet) wide OXALISADVENTURE.COM
and 9.4 kilometres (6 miles) long. But it SONDOONGCAVE.ORG
became even larger in April 2019, when VIETNAM-GUIDE.COM
a trio of British divers discovered an
underwater tunnel linking it to another Camping inside Hang Son
cave, adding an incredible 1.6 million cubic Doong Cave is truly a once-
metres (56.5 cubic feet) to its volume.
in-a-lifetime experience
No indicators of past human habitation
have ever been discovered in the cave, but
it is rich in other forms of life. There’s jungle
with trees up to 50 metres (160 feet) tall
thanks to two giant sinkholes in the cave’s
roof. New species of fish, spider, scorpion,
shrimp, wood lice and plankton have also
been discovered – all of them perfectly
adapted to survive in the darkness.

Some natural light does flood into the
cave thanks to the two sinkholes – known
as dolines – and other geographic wonders
include 400-million-year-old fossils and
the Great Wall of Vietnam, a 90-metre
(295-feet) high calcite barrier.

All tours, which have a maximum of 10
guests and around 20 support staff, are
organised and led exclusively by Oxalis
Adventure Tours. Once inside, hikers are
expected to abseil, climb, crawl and swim
through underground rivers to arrive at
the end of the cave, so a certain level of
fitness is required. If you’re looking for an
experience that’s literally out of this world,
maybe it’s time to look beneath it?

124

. SRI LANKA .
Rock Formation

. Highlights .
Take a stroll through the Water Gardens
Stop to admire the 5th-Century Sigiriya Damsels
Climb the steep steps to the Lion Platform

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Trains run daily from Colombo to Habarana,

which is just a short drive away from Sigiriya
STAY HERE The 28-acre (11-hectare) Jetwing Vil Uyana

was built with sustainability in mind
EXPLORE WITH Eco Team Sri Lanka focuses on creating

an ethical working environment for its guides

. Best time to visit .
January to April for warm, dry weather

. Useful websites .
SRILANKA.TRAVEL
WILDGRASS.LK

ARCHAEOLOGY.GOV.LK

Asia

The fortress atop Sigiriya, or
‘Lion’s Rock’ was built by the
5th-Century king, Kassapa

SIGIRIYA
Atop a solitary rock lies an ancient fortress, considered by many as the eighth wonder of the world

Rising 200 metres (660 feet) above the again becoming a religious retreat, before being two spiral staircases unveil a vast cave, carved
plains of central Sri Lanka, the rocky, abandoned in 1155. into its side. Within, a stunning sequence of
ochre-hued, outcrop of Sigiriya is an 5th Century frescoes cling to the rockface.
awe-inspiring sight. Shrouded in both mist and Swallowed by the jungle, it took centuries Known as the Sigiriya Damsels, they depict
mystery, this geological marvel was once home to be re-discovered. Today, Sigiriya reveals apsaras, celestial singers and dancers, scattering
to one of the country’s shortest-lived, but most its secrets only to those brave enough to petals and making offerings of flowers and fruit.
extraordinary kingdoms. Known as ‘Lion’s Rock’ conquer its granite summit. After crossing two While only 21 figures survive, it’s believed that
the ruins of the ancient civilisation lie atop the lily-pad-studded moats, arrow-straight paths there were originally around 500.
ridge’s near-vertical walls. lead towards the base of the rock – through a
patchwork of landscaped grounds. Water gardens The path snakes along the cliff face and across
Used as a place of worship since the 3rd are punctuated with marble-lined pools and narrow walkways to the Lion Platform, a large
Century BCE, in the 5th Century CE the fierce still-standing fragments of wooden pavilions. limb shooting out from the north side of the rock,
Mauryan king, Kassapa, began building an The elaborate Fountain Garden is dissected by below the summit. Here, two enormous stone
impregnable fortress atop its summit, in a serpentine man-made river, feeding a series paws are the remnants of a colossal lion statue
preparation for an invasion from his usurped of pools and fountains, which still spurt water. that once marked the gate to the palace.
brother, Mogallana. Constructed in just seven Just beyond, lies the Boulder Garden, home to
years, it was completed in 485 and a city was around twenty rock refuges once used by monks. A vertiginous iron staircase marks the final
quickly established around its base. In 491, the Many still bear the marks of old paintings and ascent. At the summit, the crumbling foundations
long-awaited invasion arrived, and Mogallana engravings from the 3rd Century BCE. of Kassapa’s sprawling palace are all that remain.
overwhelmed his scheming brother. After, Still, the real jewel is the spellbinding view of
Sigiriya was gifted to Buddhist monks, once From here, the path slithers through limestone the sprawling water gardens and beyond, to the
terraced gardens to the base of the rock, where jungle-carpeted horizon.

125

OCEANIA & ANTARCTICA GREAT KAKADU
BARRIER REEF
AUSTRALIA
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132
128
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LAKE HILLIER
DAINTREE
AUSTRALIA
AUSTRALIA
133
130
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FRASER ISLAND
ULURU-KATA
TJUTA AUSTRALIA

AUSTRALIA 134

131 -

ROTORUA

NEW ZEALAND

136

FIORDLAND TASMANIA

NEW ZEALAND AUSTRALIA

137 140

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WAITOMO FRANZ JOSEF
CAVES GLACIER

NEW ZEALAND NEW ZEALAND

138 141

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SHARK BAY ANTARCTICA

AUSTRALIA 142

139

GREAT BARRIER REEF

Australia’s natural wonder is equally stunning from above and below the water

T he Great Barrier Reef is the largest living There’s such a huge diversity of marine water. Seabirds like pelicans fly overhead, and
structure on the planet, and the only species in and around the Great Barrier Reef that lucky travellers can spot dolphins and whales
one visible from space. It stretches over it was named a World Heritage Site in 1981 for its leaping from the waves.
2,300 kilometres (1,429 miles) off the coast of scientific significance. Whether you’re viewing it
from a glass-bottomed boat or through a snorkel, Experienced divers are spoilt for choice, with
Queensland, Australia, from Cairns up to the the life on the reef is breathtaking. 2,000 species seemingly endless reef to explore. The Yongala,
Daintree rainforest, and is made up of 3,000 of fish dart between bright anemones and lurk a steamer sunk by a cyclone in 1911, now lies
coral reefs and hundreds of islands. Legendary on the seabed; sharks drift over the branching 28 metres (92 feet) below the surface and is
in its reputation, this wonder of the natural world coral; and manta rays glide serenely through the considered one of the best wreck dives in the
attracts more than 1.5 million visitors a year. world. Those not so used to life in a wetsuit
An aerial view of coral, Heart Reef and needn’t feel left out – snorkeling in the crystal-
the turquoise waters at Hardy Reef clear waters is an exhilarating activity available
to anyone comfortable in the water. Even visitors
Oceania & Antarctica happier just looking at the water can experience
the reef close up; ReefHQ is the largest living reef
aquarium on the planet, with the coral ecosystem
replicated on land.

Of course, the best way to see the whole reef
is from the air. Helicopters and light aircraft
leave from Cairns and Airlie Beach aiports to
offer breathtaking views of the whole coast. For
the daredevils, there’s the opportunity to leave
the comfort of the plane and skydive over the
Whitsunday Islands.

The Whitsundays, 74 idyllic islands scattered
across the turquoise water of the reef, are high
on the to-do lists of many visitors. Landing at the
Whitsunday Coast airport near Proserpine, it’s a
25-minute bus journey to Airlie Beach. This resort
town is a hive of activity with beaches, swimming
areas, nightclubs and a marina full of boats ready
to set sail for tours of the islands. Tours can last

. AUSTRALIA . The Great Barrier Reef is
Coral Reef teeming with beauty

. Highlights . 128
Go snorkeling or scuba diving to meet some of

the reef residents up close
See the reef from above on a plane or

helicopter tour
Explore some of the region’s famous shipwrecks

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY If you’re a seafarer, try a sailing or

liveaboard holiday

STAY HERE Daintree Ecolodge is nestled in
dense rainforest, and has 15 bayans (suites)

EXPLORE WITH Tree Hugger Travels combines
sustainable tourism with a laid-back Aussie attitude

. Best time to visit .
June to October (temperatures

aren’t too stifling)

. Useful websites .
VISITCAIRNS.COM.AU

GBRMPA.GOV.AU
GREATBARRIERREEF.ORG

The Daintree National Park is just
a few kilometres north of Cairns

Go snorkelling or diving for a
chance to see turtles and more

“OF COURSE, THE BEST WAY TO SEE THE Oceania & Antarctica
WHOLE REEF IS FROM THE AIR”

SEE IT UP CLOSE a few hours or several days depending on your daintier birds like cockatoos and kingfishers.
schedule and budget; overnight visitors can Rent some mountain bikes and you can fly
Diving and snorkelling in the waters of the camp, stay in island lodges or let the waves send through the rainforest alongside them.
Great Barrier Reef are wonderful experiences them to sleep in the cabin of a boat.
for both the seasoned explorer and those Combining water and wilderness, Heron
wanting to try it for the first time, and most When you feel ready for a break from island- Island is a protected Marine National Park
tour operators will accommodate for both. If hopping and golden beaches, head inland to the and the perfect place to spend a quiet few
you’re concerned about swimming through Daintree Rainforest. Entering the dense jungle, days soaking up the sun and marvelling at the
crowded water, don’t worry – the reef is vast, teeming with unusual creatures and strange nature. Plan a trip between November and
and there are many locations for exploring sounds, is like stepping into another world. It’s March and you’ll be able to watch turtles laying
what lies beneath, so you won’t be swimming home to some of Australia’s unique animals eggs and hatching on the beach.
shoulder to shoulder with a stranger. such as possums, tree kangaroos and forest
dragons. Tread quietly and you might even catch The Great Barrier Reef sits at the top of
The water has comfortable temperatures a glimpse of the world’s third largest bird, the millions of bucket lists, and with good reason.
all year round, but what you will see will vary dinosaur-like cassowary. In case any more persuasion is needed, just
throughout the year. For example, between remember this: Sir David Attenborough himself
June and November you have a greater If dangerous birds aren’t your thing, Conway said that it was the most beautiful thing he had
chance of spotting whales. National Park behind Airlie Beach plays host to ever seen.

If you are an experienced scuba diver From Airlie Beach, you can
and want to try something different, you catch a boat to the reef
should look into exploring the SS Yongala,
a passenger ship that sank in 1911. Some
operators may briefly pass by this, but there
are others that offer a tour of the wreckage, so
make sure you find the best tour operator to
suit your needs.

129

. AUSTRALIA .
Rainforest

. Highlights .
Keep your eyes peeled for well-camouflaged

animals like leaf-tailed geckos
Take a guided walk or river cruise to appreciate

the rainforest’s full splendour
Relax on one of the beaches on the park’s coastline

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Coaches depart from Cairns or Port Douglas

all year round, so you can reduce CO2 emissions
STAY HERE Red Mill House B&B takes its water from a

nearby rainfall, and it’s the cleanest in Queensland
EXPLORE WITH Discover the Daintree contributes to

climate change research, and does guided tours

. Best time to visit .
May to September, to reduce rainfall and humidity

. Useful websites .
PARKS.DES.QLD.GOV.AU/PARKS/DAINTREE

DISCOVERTHEDAINTREE.COM
DAINTREE.COM

Oceania & Antarctica The lookout at Mount Alexandra gives
spectacular views over the park

DAINTREE

Prepare to be blown away by the wildlife of the Daintree Rainforest

T ravel north along the coast from Brisbane will give you the best chance of spotting wildlife, shuttle takes people from the Mossman visitor
or Cairns and you’ll eventually find and they’ll tell you the story of the forest and its centre to the gorge.
yourself in the middle of an ancient importance as you venture through the trees.
rainforest – perhaps the oldest in the world. The Here you can search for more species on one
Greater Daintree Rainforest has existed for more If you need to relax after all that walking in of the looping walking routes, take a dip in the
than 100 million years, resulting in a staggering the humid climate, head to Cape Tribulation. water or learn about the history of the area. The
diversity of plants and creatures. The headland has long stretches of relatively gorge is within the traditional homeland of the
unspoiled beach against a backdrop of coastal Kuku Yalanji, an indigenous Australian people,
Over 400 bird species live within the park, rainforest, as well as hostels, lodges and a and it’s seen many years of conflict since the first
including riflebirds, fairy-wrens and the Southern couple of museums. There are plenty of activities arrival of European settlers and gold prospectors.
cassowary, one of the largest and heaviest birds available in the area if you’ve still got energy to
on the planet. More than 20 species of reptile spare; try fruit tasting, a four-wheel-drive tour, Rather than just paddling in rivers or carefully
can be found in the rainforest, along with 13 mountain biking, a mangrove trail or even a making your way over them, why not take a river
different amphibians. Possums, tree kangaroos, guided night walk. Crocodile tours and boat trips cruise? These boat trips give you views of the
bandicoots, echidnas and platypuses are among to the Great Barrier Reef also leave from the rainforest that you might miss walking through
Daintree’s mammal residents, and thousands cape’s beaches. it, and if you’re lucky you’ll spot crocodiles and
of beetles, butterflies and other insects fill the eastern water dragons swimming past. Keep
forest with colour and movement. While nothing’s Mossman Gorge sits at one of the entrances to an eye on the banks too – you wouldn’t want to
guaranteed, a walking tour with a local expert the park. A suspension bridge crosses Rex Creek miss the flash of a diving kingfisher or the slow
shortly before it joins the Mossman River, and a movement of a goanna.

130

ULURU-KATA TJUTA

Marvel at the massive monolith and rocky domes that rise from the Australian outback

L ocated roughly 460 kilometres (285 miles) Rangers regale stories of the Mala people and hiking routes when visiting these incredible
from the town of Alice Springs in the heart their traditions and how the Anangu culture domes, starting with the 2.6-kilometre (1.6-
of Australia’s Red Centre, Uluru-Kata Tjuta thrived around the park. Grab a visitor’s map and mile) Walpa Gorge hike. A rocky path reveals a
is a vast, semi-arid desert comprising of two complete the full three-and-a-half-hour circuit plethora of plant and animal life. The other walks
impressive rock formations. The first of these, of Uluru’s base around a 10.6-kilometre (6.5- are combined within the Valley of the Winds,
Uluru (formerly known as Ayers Rock), is a huge, mile) loop. This is the ideal way to experience comprising of tracks heading down valleys and
dome-shaped sandstone monolith standing and photograph the natural beauty of this giant creek beds and onto lookout points that’ll simply
360 metres (1,181 feet) above sea level – taller monolith. A number of hiking routes – varying take your breath away. During the midday heat,
than the Eiffel Tower – and is made up of valleys, in difficulty and length – surround the rock find some shade to cool down before heading
caves, ridges, plunge pools and tall grooves. The formation, passing by rock art, soaring crevices back out in the late afternoon sun to catch the
second formation, Kata Tjuta (or ‘many heads’, as and astonishing geological features. sunset lighting up the formations and turning
them a glorious red hue.
its name translates), is a formation comprising of A 45-minute drive west of Uluru are the domed
36 smaller rocks that spread out across the vast rock formations of Kata Tjuta. It’s well worth Spend a couple of days exploring what’s on
desert outback. grabbing a panoramic glimpse of Kata Tjuta from offer in Uluru-Kata Tjuta, allocating a day to each
the Dune Viewing area located just a short drive formation. Hotels are available to book at the
To get a true sense of the history and culture away from the formation before heading further nearby Ayers Rock Resort, so staying longer here
surrounding these massive rock formations, in to explore. Access to most areas at Kata Tjuta will give you a greater insight into the culture and
free guided walks, lasting approximately one is restricted, but there are two recommended historical value of the park.
and a half hours, come highly recommended.

Watch the magnificent Uluru Oceania & Antarctica
monolith shift its hue to a
vibrant red as the sun is setting

. AUSTRALIA .
Rock Formation

. Highlights .
Catch the red rocks glowing at sunset
Don’t miss out on free guided tours running daily
Book a place on a stargazing session

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Get a bus from Alice Springs, and see

Australia’s Outback capital while you’re at it
STAY HERE Longitude 131˚ is a luxury, eco-
conscious desert resort with 16 tented pavilions
EXPLORE WITH Wayoutback actively trains
Aboriginal guides and educates its customers

. Best time to visit .
April to October

. Useful websites .
PARKSAUSTRALIA.GOV.AU/ULURU
NORTHERNTERRITORY.COM/GB/EN

ULURU-AUSTRALIA.COM

131

. AUSTRALIA .
Savanna

. Highlights .
Learn about Australia’s indigenous people on

an Aboriginal-led canoe journey
View Aboriginal art at the nearby galleries

Don’t miss the giant termite mounds

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Joining a group tour may produce

less emissions than self-driving to Kakadu
STAY HERE Cooinda Lodge is ECO-certified

by Ecotourism Australia
EXPLORE WITH Kakadu Cultural Tours is an
Aboriginal-owned and operated company

. Best time to visit .
June to August, for dry season

. Useful websites .
PARKSAUSTRALIA.GOV.AU/KAKADU
KAKADUCULTURALTOURS.COM.AU

KAKADUTOURISM.COM

Oceania & Antarctica

Ubirr is one of the most famous spots
in Kakadu and the views over the Nadab
floodplain are jaw-dropping

KAKADU

This gorgeous savanna is sacred Aboriginal land that makes for an amazing cultural experience

K akadu is Australia’s largest national the park, and their long history is recorded in with 280 different types of birds and more than
park, spread over an area that is half artwork adorning caves, rocks and other sacred 10,000 saltwater crocodiles, which are referred
the size of Switzerland. It is also a World locations – there are more than 5,000 art sites to as ‘salties’. They were once hunted almost to
Heritage Site thanks to its unique archaeological across the park. extinction, but they flourish today in their natural
and ethnological importance, granting visitors a environment and spotting them can be fun – so
fascinating insight into the Aboriginal way of life. The oldest paintings are about 20,000 years long as you’re careful.
Whether you see it on a sunrise cruise, fly above old, and you can see them in the main rock art
galleries open to the public at Ubirr, Nourlangie Rangers keep their eyes peeled, however,
it in a small plane or embark on a local tour and Nanguluwurr. Art has traditionally allowed allowing visitors to enjoy the many swimming holes
across land, you’ll almost certainly fall in love with the people to express their cultural identity, and including the plunge pool at Twin Falls, located in
this spiritual landscape. they show their connection with the environment. the Jim Jim region (although they’ll recommend
Some depict animals that have become extinct you use the Jabiru swimming pool and those of the
It is understood that Aboriginal people have and many reflect the beliefs and values of resorts, just in case). You can also go bushwalking
lived in Kakadu for more than 65,000 years, and Aboriginal culture. There are those that show the across many trails, camp and embark on cultural
you’ll still see many pursuing a semi-traditional moment Europeans made contact too. tours, perhaps making time to buy some arts and
lifestyle – hunting, fishing and working the land. crafts to help the memories of your trip live forever.
The Aboriginal community owns 65 per cent of The National Park is also teeming with wildlife,

132

LAKE HILLIER

The pretty-in-pink Australian lake that stuns tourists and scientists alike

T hink of a lake. You’re probably imagining a even when the water is removed and bottled. allowed, you probably wouldn’t want to. Yes, the Oceania & Antarctica
cool, blue expanse of water. Maybe even Discovered by British explorer Matthew Flinders water has been tested and it is perfectly safe to
turquoise or aquamarine. You certainly in 1802, Lake Hillier was named after William swim in. The microalgae, meanwhile, is harmless;
won’t be imagining water the colour of a flamingo, Hillier – one of Flinders’ fellow HMS Investigator there aren’t any creatures that will try and have
but that is the sight that would greet you if you sailors who had sadly died of dysentery. Lake a nibble on you, and the pink won’t stain your
visit the unique and spectacular Lake Hillier. Hillier, which is on the small side at around 600 body. The salt levels are comparable to the Dead
by 250 metres (1,968 by 820 feet), was mined Sea in the Middle East, which is also perfectly
Situated on Middle Island, just off the coast for its salt for six years, but mining stopped when safe to swim in. It just wouldn’t make for the
of Western Australia, the lake is a bright-pink it was discovered that the salt was too toxic for most satisfying swim ever – the salt would wreak
colour all year round, for reasons scientists still human consumption. Middle Island is now a havoc on your hair, and leave scratchy crystals
can’t quite agree on. Some believe it is due to a nature reserve, and no tourists are allowed to set on your skin. So perhaps it’s for the best you’ll be
bacteria found in the water, while others think it’s foot on it. So, the best way to see Lake Hillier in all admiring it from a few hundred feet above.
caused by Dunaliella salina microalgae. One thing its glory is by helicopter, as it is at its most vibrant
everyone can agree on, however, is that it looks from the air and you can fully appreciate the Whichever way you experience Lake Hillier, this
both bizarre and incredible – especially as it’s contrast with the Pacific. is a sight that no self-respecting traveller can
just metres from the Pacific Ocean that remains miss out on. Where else can you see nature’s
determinedly and traditionally blue, resulting in Now, the big question that all once-in-a-lifetime- daiquiri nestled among the trees of an Australian
an amazing contrast when viewed from above. experience seekers will want to know: can you nature reserve, and get your friends scrabbling
swim in a bubblegum lake for the ultimate holiday to find what filter you used to create that
Lake Hillier isn’t the only pink lake in the world, snap? The short answer is that even if you were unbelievable shot?
but it is unique as the one that retains its colour

. AUSTRALIA . Admittedly, Lake Hillier isn’t the
Lake only pink lake in the world, but it
does have rather unique qualities
. Highlights .
Get a bird’s eye view from a helicopter
Stretch out on Blue Haven Sandy beach
Go fine dining in the town of Esperance

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Helicopter tours are the only way

to see Middle Island and Lake Hillier
STAY HERE Off-grid Eco Valley Retreat is a
lovely, pet-friendly homestay near Esperance
EXPLORE WITH Goldfields Air Services have
trips starting at $425 AUD (£240/$335 USD)

. Best time to visit .
March to May (for the best weather)

. Useful websites .
AUSTRALIA.COM

ESPERANCECRUISES.COM.AU
GOLDFIELDSAIRSERVICES.COM

133

FRASER ISLAND

Set alongside Australia’s Queensland coast is a mysterious island, fiercely unique and wild

Oceania & Antarctica P art of the Great Sandy National Park, Fraser From here, Fraser Island, known by its blush satinash, abloom with fluffy, white flowers.
Island is home to the world’s oldest dunes. aboriginal name of K’gari, is best enjoyed aboard Elsewhere, Wanggoolba Creek is shaded beneath
However, this is no typical subtropical a four-wheel drive (or 4WD), throttling along its a walkway of rare king ferns, holding their leaning
paradise. Stretching 123 kilometres (76 miles) 250-kilometre (155-mile) shoreline, rocky roads fronds up using water pressure.
and looming rainforests. However, the island’s
long and 22 kilometres (14 miles) wide, at great lure is as a socket to connect to nature – Behind the northeastern lookout of Waddy
184,000 hectares (454,674 acres), Fraser Island and it could be argued that the only way to truly Point, the subtropical rainforest is characterised
is the largest sand island in the world. More than do so is the 90-kilometre (56-mile), six-day by the scribbly gum – a light-coloured eucalyptus
that, dressed in luscious layers of foliage, the Fraser Island Great Walk, from the northeastern tree, with dark scribbles drawn up by the scribbly
UNESCO World Heritage Site is the planet’s only Happy Valley to the southeastern Dilli Village – moth’s larvae. These are kept company by the
sand island to boast a rainforest. It is an island in with plenty of camping breaks along the way. For red bloodwood, an evergreen reaching heights
motion, an ever-evolving snapshot of nature at its casual walkers, the journey can also be enjoyed of 35 metres (115 feet), oozing with an essential
most innovative and raw. in chunks – ranging from a few hours to an oil much-coveted in aboriginal herbal medicine.
overnight trek. While Fraser Island’s choppy seas are considered
Fraser Island sits along the Fraser Coast, unsafe for swimming, the nearby Champagne
300 kilometres (186 miles) north of Brisbane. Along the way, the island unveils its hidden Pools create a natural set of swimming holes
While road-trippers board the Manta Ray Barge gems, not so much diamonds in the rough, as along the shoreline. Looking east towards the
from Inskip Point, ramblers often prefer to take perpetual masterpieces, forever in perfection. Coral Sea, it is the only place one can enjoy the
the more leisurely 50-minute Fraser Island The island’s most immediately staggering island’s saltwater – especially during low-tide,
Barge, from River Heads, 20 minutes south of feature is its rainforest. Across Pile Valley, which when the pools are lapped only by soft waves,
Hervey Bay. Truly daring souls may even opt for has survived some serious deforestation, giant hauling in the occasional fish.
the scenic, albeit tiny, Air Fraser Island plane. satinay trees stretch straight towards the clear
No matter how it is reached, a good starting blue sky, alongside the brush box, spreading One of the island’s more curious wonders is
point is to stock up on supplies at the outwards like bursts of green clouds. They are its 40 kilometres (25 miles) of coloured sandy
settlements of Eurong, Happy Valley, Cathedrals joined by thin piccabeen palms with outstretched cliffs. Known as The Pinnacles, they are believed
or Orchid Beach – though visitors are advised feathery fronds, and cherry satinash, sprouting by the indigenous Butchulla people to have been
to bring medical kits and water with them when a popular ‘bush food’, along with the resilient created by the Rainbow Serpent. Heading south
they visit. towards Eli Creek, 72 shades of sand dance from

. AUSTRALIA .
Sand Island

. Highlights .
Explore the world’s largest sand island

Stroll along rainforest boardwalks
See the oldest sand dunes in the world

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Sail to Fraser Island across the

Great Sandy Strait
STAY HERE Beachcamp Eco Retreat has Insta-
worthy glamping, camping, and beach huts

EXPLORE WITH Bushwacker Eco Tours
specialises in small-group experiences

. Best time to visit .
July to November (for whale watching – August

to October for humpbacks)
. Useful websites .
KINGFISHERBAY.COM
VISITFRASERCOAST.COM
FRASERISLAND.NET

Fraser Island, the world’s only
sand island to host a rainforest, is
characterised by towering satinay,
brush box and other sub-tropical trees

134

Every year, humpback whales migrate
from Antarctica to the eastern
Australian coast to give birth

Used as a hospital ship in WWI,
the SS Maheno was swept
towards Fraser Island, en

route to Japan for scrapping

red to yellow, ushering in the wreck of the SS “THE ISLAND’S MOST IMMEDIATELY
Maheno – an early turbine-driven steamer, which STAGGERING FEATURE IS ITS RAINFOREST”
was swept away in 1935 while being dragged
to Japan. It is just one of 23 ships to have been Come evening, visitors can go on an open- The self-contained Kingfisher Bay Resort is
wrecked against Fraser Island between 1856 and air tour of the island’s all-night party critters, tucked away on a stunning stretch of shoreline
1935 – even after the construction of the island’s such as the black-and-white sugar glider, a tiny
northern Sandy Cape Lighthouse in 1870. possum capable of crossing half a football pitch Oceania & Antarctica
in one flight. The island also counts around 80
Further afield, Hammerstone Sandblow, one of types of reptile among its population, including
the island’s enormous, ever-shifting dunes, leads 20 species of snake, ‘acid frogs’ accustomed to
into Lake Wabby. The island’s deepest lake is also acidic water, and sand and lace monitors, which
an anomaly – both technically a window lake, tend to linger around picnic areas.
which sits beneath water level, and a barrage
lake – formed when the Hammerstone created a Aside from hundreds of bird species, the
natural dam against a creek. It is also the island’s island is also perfectly positioned for whale-
only lake that supports aquatic life, but in the watching excursions, as migrating humpbacks
next century will most likely be swallowed by the flee the Antarctic to give birth in Australia’s
dune that created it. warmer waters. The only sight more delightful
than humpback whales are humpback whales
Altogether, the island’s lakes are exceptional swimming alongside their calves – a shining
in size, diversity and age. Inland, Fraser’s Lake example of life at the edge of the world.
McKenzie splits the rainforest, like an enormous
oasis. The perched lake is fed not by groundwater Fraser Island is home to the purest ACCOMMODATION
but rainwater, sitting between dunes, atop the strain of dingo in eastern Australia
silky smooth white silica sand below – which There is no one way to experience Fraser
not only filters the water crystal clear, but feels Island. The isle offers myriad options to rest
positively delightful beneath treading feet. your head, from camping beneath the stars
to living it up at the Kingfisher Bay Resort. For
Lake Boomanjin is also a bizarre beast. Quieter backpackers and four-wheelers, campgrounds
than its counterparts, at 190 hectares (470 are scattered across the island – though not
acres), it is both the world’s largest perched lake, all of these allow campers to light fires, so
and the highest, 130 metres (427 feet) above packing a portable stove is a must. Luckily,
sea level. However, not content to break records, from crockery to sleeping bags, essentials can
Boomanjin also boasts a surreal gradient of be hired along with a 4WD. Camping packages
reddish hues – tea tree red, to be precise – an even include the cost of permits.
effect created by stripping tannin from the
surrounding tea trees. While there are hotels available in Eurong
and Happy Valley, none quite match up to
The island’s unusual landscapes have created Kingfisher Bay Resort, an ecotourist slice
a fittingly unfamiliar ecosystem, where the of paradise, offering everything from rooms
purest strain of eastern Australian dingoes call to villas, with views of the sea and lagoons.
home. Roughly 50 mammals are spread across Meanwhile, the timber Wilderness Lodges
Fraser Island’s rainforests, mangroves, swamps, embed guests in the shade of gum trees and
woodlands, heaths and shorelines. They include bush plants. Shared bedrooms strip back
the elusive swamp wallaby, which scurries amid the frills, limited to an open-lounge, coin-
the scant grass and the sheepish short-beaked laundry, pay-phone, kitchenette and a mask of
echidna, with its long spines. mosquito screens.

135

. NEW ZEALAND .
Geothermic Site

. Highlights .
Immerse yourself in Maori culture at

Whakarewarewa village
Sample unusual fruits at Rotorua’s city market

Take a mud bath in one of the area’s spas

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY See the area from two wheels

along the Te Ara Ahi cycling trail

STAY HERE Malfroy Motor Lodge is an
affordable, geothermal-powered motel

EXPLORE WITH Foris Eco Tours has hiking,
biking and birding tours across North Island

. Best time to visit .
March to May (to avoid the

crowds and winter)

. Useful websites .
WAITOMO.COM

NEWZEALAND.COM
WAIOTAPU.CO.NZ

Oceania & Antarctica Rotorua’s pungent hot springs come
in a wide variety of colours, such as the

Champagne Pool at Wai-O-Tapu

ROTORUA

New Zealand is one of Earth’s most beautiful countries and Rotorua is a prime example of why

A land of geothermal activity, Rotorua is day, Pohutu blasts boiling hot water 30 metres choose just one, the Champagne Pool rings its
not exactly love at first sniff. The town’s (100 feet) high – fitting for a geyser whose name green centre with a skirting of orange. The park’s
lingering eggy, sulphuric air is perhaps literally means ‘big splash’. Lady Knox Geyser is set off every morning with
the first thing visitors notice when approaching a curious trick, discovered by a chain gang in the
it. However, the source of this smell is far too The only Maori-owned thermal park, Tikitere, 1900s: pouring soap into its spout.
remarkable to turn one’s nose up at. or ‘Hell’s Gate’, has remained holy ground to
the Ngati Rangiteaorere tribe. It is Rotorua’s Elsewhere, in the Hidden Valley, lies one
In the heart of the city, an innocuous weekly most energetic landscape, 20 hectares (50 of the world’s only two geothermal caves,
market hawks fresh fruit, crafts, clothing, acres) marked by spitting mud pits, angry Ruatapu, or ‘Sacred Hole’, driving 37 metres
souvenirs and other goods, but Kuirau is not your geysers, steaming hot springs and the southern (120 feet) underground, into a hot pool named
average park. Bubbling and hissing, it hints at a hemisphere’s largest hot waterfall, the terrifyingly Waiwhakaata, or ‘pool of mirrors’.
great, unstoppable menace below. According to destructive Kakahi.
Maori legend, the gods first heated up the park’s Four of Rotorua’s geothermal parks lie on
small lake to punish a water-dwelling taniwha for The black pool is a nightmarish pond, ever set the Te Ara Ahi cycling trail, its off-road sections
kidnapping a young woman. to 93 degrees Celsius (199 degrees Fahrenheit) – a pleasant ride even for casual riders. Eager
so hot, it’s used to cook food. Elsewhere, bunnies can even whisk themselves through
Just three kilometres (1.9 miles) away, at colourful bacteria known as ‘land corals’ sprout Redwoods Mountain Park, a 5,600-hectare
Whakarewarewa, 500 hot springs and 65 geyser upon the alien landscape, flourishing from its (13,838-acre) forest. Here, unusual vegetation
vents surround what was once the unconquered unusual conditions. Though even in hell, there blooms alongside volcanic craters and steaming
fortress of Te Puia, founded in 1325 CE. The local is paradise, in the form of the Wai Ora and Hells rainbow-coloured rocks.
Maori who inhabit this ‘living village’ continue to Gate spas, a tantalising set of mud baths and hot
rely upon the traditional, eco-friendly geothermal springs, simmering with replenishing nutrients. For something a little different, at Waitomo
energy source for heating and cooking. Today, Caves boats drift into the darkness, illuminated
visitors can learn more about Maori culture, Another park, Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland, by the soft light of glow-worms. A more exciting
music and food, cooked over hot stones, just by is a brightly coloured spectacle, where hot alternative is to abseil down into the caves,
the country’s largest geyser. Erupting 15 times a springs peacock in various shades of orange, throttling through via zipline, and leaping off
yellow, turquoise and emerald. Not content to underground waterfalls.

136

FIORDLAND

The artistry and grandeur of nature are unsurpassed in New Zealand’s Fiordland National Park

T he poet Rudyard Kipling called Milford (4,868 square miles) are preserved, where world’s most renowned hiking treks: the Kepler,
Sound the ‘eighth wonder of the world’, but mountains push skyward, deep and dark fjords Routeburn and Milford Track.
this is only one of many natural wonders have been etched by nature, and verdant
carved and crafted through the centuries at valleys stretch far beyond the horizon. Nature’s Milford Track is probably the most famous
handiwork is on display in its grandest, most hiker’s journey in New Zealand, traversing 53
the Fiordland National Park, tucked along the exhilarating fashion. kilometres (33 miles) through distant valleys
southwest edge of New Zealand’s South Island. and in the shadow of soaring mountains, beside
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Fiordland crystal blue lakes and among ancient rainforests.
Established in 1952, Fiordland National National Park includes Milford, Dusky and It finishes at Sutherland Falls, the tallest waterfall
Park is home to a number of spectacular vistas Doubtful Sounds. It’s also home to three of the in New Zealand and a wondrous sight to behold.
for visitors to enjoy. 12,607 square kilometres Millennia ago, when glaciers crept across the
land and created the finger-like fjords – actually
This stunning perspective of Milford flooded U-shaped valleys left by these rivers
Sound is just a sampling of the wonders of of ice – they also created other interesting
formations. Visitors have been awe-struck
Fiordland National Park in New Zealand with their splendour since indigenous peoples
gathered there in ages past.
Oceania & Antarctica
Today, visiting Fiordland National Park is a
. NEW ZEALAND . pilgrimage for lovers of natural beauty. Flights
National Park into the resort city of Queenstown are regular,
and air services are available in Te Anau, the
. Highlights . gateway to the park, Manapouri and Milford
Take a boat trip and see the theatrical Sound. The two-hour drive from Queenstown
to Te Anau is around 172 kilometres (107 miles).
landscape from the water Car rentals are easy to find in Queenstown, and
Watch glow worms sparkling in the caves scenic drives enable motorists to view points of
Bike or hike your way through the mountains interest. Fiordland National Park may also be
experienced via boat tour or chartered aircraft,
. Ecotourism . offering different perspectives on the dark cliffs
TRAVEL BY Milford Sound Tours have coaches rising directly from the depths of the lakes.
with glass roofs, so you don’t miss the scenery
Visits to Fiordland National Park should begin
STAY HERE Fiordland Eco Retreat is solar at the Department of Conservation Visitor
powered, and collects and reuses rainwater Centre, where reservations can be made and
itineraries planned. Rare species of plants and
EXPLORE WITH Go on a kayak trip with animals reside within the park, and the Te Anau
Milford Sound Tours to marvel at the fjords Bird Sanctuary is a favourite for those wishing to
catch a glimpse of the Fiordland Crested Pengui
. Best time to visit . (or tawaki) or the Kaka. The etched limestone
September to November caverns of Glowworm Caves reward adventurers
with a spectacular subterranean waterfall.
. Useful websites . Fishermen angle for brown and rainbow trout in
the Waiau River, along with cod, tuna and other
FIORDLAND.ORG.NZ saltwater species along the shoreline. Hunting is
MILFORD-SOUND.CO.NZ allowed, but a permit is required.

BACKPACKERGUIDE.NZ Milford and Doubtful Sounds exhibit their
own charms, including the sheer cliffs, roaring
waterfalls and occasional visits of inquisitive
bottlenose dolphins. Lake Manapouri is the
second deepest in all of New Zealand, offering
visitors a perfect opportunity for a boat cruise or
kayak paddling.

Only 20 minutes’ drive from Te Anau,
the village of Manapouri lies adjacent to
the shimmering lake that shares its name.
Both towns offer resort accommodations,
economically priced rooms and other lodgings.
Numerous restaurants and picnic areas provide
diverse dining options, and popular local foods
include lobster and venison.

137

WAITOMO CAVES

Discover one of nature’s most spectacular light shows deep underground in New Zealand

Oceania & Antarctica A s you stand inside the peaceful darkness dripping water has crafted impressive natural is sound-tracked by thundering underground
of the Waitomo Caves, a galaxy of lights sculptures that hang down from the ceiling and waterfalls in the distance.
twinkle above your head. It may look like a rise up from the floor, and the walls themselves
starry night’s sky visible below ground, but these are made from glistening fossilised sea shells The third and most popular cave is the
beautiful illuminations are created by thousands that were once part of the sea bed. Waitomo Glowworm Cave, which features two
of glowworms that call the caves home. levels that are 16 metres (52 feet) apart. The
Knowledgeable local guides can take you upper level is dry and features several stunning
These tiny insects, known as Arachnocampa on tours of the three main caves at Waitomo, formations including the Tomo, a vertical
luminosa, are native to New Zealand, and use a providing a fascinating insight into their history, limestone shaft carved by a spectacular waterfall
chemical reaction to emit a blue-tinged glow from geology and cultural significance to the Maori that only flows during heavy rains. This leads
their backsides. The light helps them to attract people of the North Island. down to the lower level where a boat ride takes
their prey, which they then catch in a sticky web you through the Cathedral, a 14-metre-high
of silk threads that hang down from the cave The Aranui Cave is the smallest, and as it (46-foot-high) cavern with incredible acoustics, to
ceiling. Their spectacular natural light show does not have a river running through it, can the Glowworm Grotto where you are surrounded
has made the Waitomo Caves one of the North be explored entirely on foot. Its ceiling is richly by a starry light display that’s reflected in the
Island’s most popular attractions, but it’s not the decorated with stalactites in amazing shades of calm waters beneath you.
only reason to visit. pale brown, pink and white, and you may even
spot one of its only residents: the native cave You can choose to take as many of these
The cave system itself is also fascinating to weta insect that has been around since the age tours as you like, but if you’re seeking more of a
explore, either on foot or by boat. A network of the dinosaurs. thrill, you might prefer to go black water rafting
of underground streams have been carving instead. This gives you the chance to abseil and
its passageways and chambers out of the soft The longest cave at Waitomo, the Ruakuri Cave, zipline through the caves, climb and jump off
limestone rock for millions of years, inspiring can also be explored on foot, starting with a long underground waterfalls, and then float beneath
the name Waitomo, which is Maori for ‘stream spiral ramp that takes you deep underground. the glowworms on rubber tubes for a truly
that flows into the hole under the ground’. Inside, As you marvel at the shawl-like limestone breathtaking subterranean adventure.
formations and glowworms overhead, your walk

. NEW ZEALAND .
Glowworm Caves

. Highlights .
Look up at the iridescent insects
Admire nature’s hanging chandeliers
Hear the echoes of the so-called Cathedral

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY The public bus from Auckland

takes about 3 hours
STAY HERE Rock Retreat bed & breakfast is a

self-sufficient and child-friendly outpost
EXPLORE WITH Glowing Adventures has a
slow-paced “off the beaten track” day trip

. Best time to visit .
November to April (for warmer conditions)

. Useful websites .
WAITOMO.COM

WAITOMOCAVES.COM
NEWZEALAND.COM

The Waitomo Glowworm Caves were
first explored in 1887 by a local Maori

chief and an English surveyor

138

. AUSTRALIA . Gin-clear waters and bleached
Bay beaches characterise Shark
Bay World Heritage Site
. Highlights .
Witness some of the oldest living fossils
on Earth, the Hamelin Pool Stromatolites,
which date back 3,500 million years
Feed and interact with the bottlenose
dolphins at Monkey Mia, the only beach in

Australia visited daily by dolphins
Don’t miss Shell Beach, so called because it’s
made up of trillions of tiny Fragum cockle shells,

up to 10m (33ft) deep in places

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Hire a canoe and spot whale sharks

and humpback whales
STAY HERE Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef features eco-luxe

wilderness tents with breathtaking views
EXPLORE WITH Wula Gura Nyinda Eco Adventures

provides an authentic experience of Aboriginal
culture, history and tradition

. Best time to visit .
June to October when the winds are lighter and

daytime temperatures are around 25ºC

. Useful websites .
SALSALIS.COM.AU
SHARKBAY.ORG

WHC.UNESCO.ORG/EN/LIST/578/

Oceania & Antarctica

SHARK BAY

Discover incomparable marine life at Western Australia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Area

Y ou’d be forgiven for expecting Shark Bay UNESCO World Heritage Areas in Australia. It The peninsulas, islands and bays are home to a
to be fringed by waters teeming with was named by English explorer William Dampier range of plants and animals found nowhere else
sharks. But in fact, you’re more likely on his second voyage to the country in 1699, and in the wild. Five of the 26 species of endangered
to come face to face with dolphins, dugongs it’s believed that he mistook the many dolphins Australian mammals, as well as 35% of all of
or humpback whales along the coastline of for sharks, giving the area its misleading moniker. the country’s bird species, live here. Shark Bay
this World Heritage Site. Shark Bay’s name is also features the world’s most abundant marine
doubly deceptive as, not only are there very The clear, sheltered waters are beautifully stromatolites – living fossils representing the
few sharks, it’s also not a single bay. Instead, patterned with seagrass meadows that provide oldest forms of life on Earth.
the westernmost tip of Australia is actually a vital food source for all kinds of fauna. Visitors
made up of two bays, separated by finger-like are practically guaranteed to spot bottlenose Although larger than some European countries,
peninsulas beckoning out into the Indian Ocean. dolphins, particularly at Monkey Mia, where the Shark Bay has a permanent population of just
It gives the shoreline a ‘W’ shape and the local mammals come close to shore to feed. You’re under 1,000 people, mainly centred around the
Malgana Aboriginal people still know the area as also likely to see turtles, manta rays, whales town of Denham. Here you can discover the full
Gutharraguda, meaning “two waters”. and dugongs. More than 10,000 of these rare story of the area’s natural and historical treasures
herbivorous mammals, also known as sea cows, at the World Heritage Discovery & Visitor Centre.
Shark Bay covers some 2.2 million hectares can be found in Shark Bay. Humpback whales
(5.5 million acres), including 1,500 kilometres use the bay as a staging post in their annual Despite its misleading name, the marine
(930 miles) of coastline, and is one of only 20 migration from August to October each year. wonders at Shark Bay are more than worth
travelling to the other side of the world for.

139

. AUSTRALIA .
Island

. Highlights .
Visit the wonderful Museum of Old and

New Art in Hobart
Discover unique flora in the Arboretum
See the orange boulders at the Bay of Fires

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Hiking and biking is easily the best

way to see this incredible island

STAY HERE Freycinet Resort is a low-impact
resort on Mount Paul

EXPLORE WITH Wukalina Walk is an
Aboriginal-owned company that does guided

walks of the Bay of Fires

. Best time to visit .
December to February (for festivals) or

March to May (for hiking)

. Useful websites .
PARKS.TAS.GOV.AU
TASMANIA.COM

TASWALKINGCO.COM.AU

Oceania & Antarctica Across Tasmania, you’re never much further than
an hour’s drive from paradise, such as Trousers
Point, near Lacotta on Flinders Island

TASMANIA

Australia’s island offers a rugged landscape, befitting its storied past

E very day, the Spirit of Tasmania whisks limits. Though rife with on-trend restaurants and and 1877. Fittingly, the World Heritage Site has its
visitors from Melbourne to Tasmania’s quaint shops, it sits just south of the soaring own Ghost Tour, for those who dare to explore its
northern coastal city of Devonport. The Henty Dunes, shaped by winds roaring all the ruins by lantern light.
city offers a hearty welcome, with a casual way from South America. The West Coast
Wilderness Railway, meanwhile, is a comfortable After a short stop at the state’s second city
beachside stroll to the red and white Mersey way to explore the region’s extremely of Launceston, with its colonial and Victorian
Lighthouse. By the bluff, Aboriginal rock carvings uncomfortable past – complete with a rainforest cityscapes and parks, the Tamar River flows
hint at the region’s indigenous heritage, dating stroll, gold panning and honey tasting. through vineyards, orchards, forested hills and
back tens of thousands of years before its more scores of riverside villages. In Tasmania’s far
recent colonisation and influx of convicts. On the opposite coast lies Hobart, the state northeast, the Bay of Fires spans 50 kilometres
capital, and a hub of art, food and culture. (31 miles) of coastline, from Eddystone Point to
After a day of fishing, rowing and sailing, and Framed by mountains and sea, and an hour from Binalong Bay. Multi-day hikes traverse sandy
a trip to the stunning Tasmanian Arboretum, the stunning Mount Field National Park, the city beaches and heathland, over boulders and
Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park calls. overflows with fresh food and artisanal markets. through eucalyptus forests, with plenty of time
Here, the epic week-long Overland Track takes Mona (Museum of Old and New Art) curates a for snorkelling and birdwatching.
hikers through the bushland, where glacial water striking blend of modern art and ancient heritage,
drips down mountainsides into steady lakes, and set within a deliciously contemporary building, Further south, Freycinet National Park features
cold waterfalls spit into thick rainforests. Its trees driven into the cliffs. pink cliffs and empty white beaches, with only
date back thousands of years, providing shade exotic birds to keep visitors company. A short
to the park’s platypus, echidna and, of course, An hour and a half away, originally built as ramble away, at Wineglass Bay, white sand gives
Tasmanian devils. a timber station, Port Arthur grew into one of way turquoise sea. With lagoons to explore, along
the country’s most notorious prisons. Dubbed with wallabies and black swans to spot, it will
To the west, the coastal town of Strahan is true ‘inescapable’, despite its beautiful surroundings, it have visitors unpacking their tents, and digging
frontier territory – a Wild West, where convicts was the bane of 12,500 convicts’ lives from 1830 their feet in for the long haul.
and settlers pushed themselves to their natural

140

FRANZ JOSEF GLACIER

Visit the rock star of the glacier world on New Zealand’s South Island

Y ou might think that scaling a glacier is an took its name from the imposing natural wonder and gaze over the Tasman Sea or keep an eye Oceania & Antarctica
activity best left to trained mountaineers and the unique nature of the temperate glacier out for birds in the spectacular rainforest. The
equipped with crampons, pickaxes and began to attract visitors. icy, snowy glacier descends into a temperate
layer upon layer of Gore-Tex. However, the rainforest, home to the kotuku, southern crested
Franz Josef glacier in New Zealand allows you As interesting as a tale about a German grebe and Okarito brown kiwi. Tours are available
to bust out your inner Edmund Hillary in the explorer naming a glacier in New Zealand after and highly recommended, as there are also
morning then be down at the beach by the an Austrian emperor is, the traditional Maori tale hot flat pools to explore and Lake Matheson –
afternoon. The 3,000-metre-high (9,842-foot- is even more fascinating. The story goes that the known as the most photographed lake in New
high) glacier is one of only three glaciers in snow maiden, Hine Hukatere, fell in love with a Zealand due to its reflective waters, so clearly
New Zealand to be within a few hundred metres mortal man, Wawe. They ascended Aorangi – the not to be missed.
from the coastline – meaning this is an ideal home of the tribal gods – to ask for them to
holiday location for those wanting to mix high- make her warm-blooded. However, the vengeful If you’re a serious thrill-seeker, a full-
adrenaline activities with a relaxing piña colada god of weather, Tawhirimatea, pushed Wawe blown glacier heli-hike is a must for a unique
by the waves. Not only that, but the glacier off the mountain to his death. Hine Hukatere’s experience. Franz Josef Glacier moves up to 50
descends into the stunning Westland Tai Poutini tears then formed the glacier, known in the Maori centimetres (20 inches) a day, but has been
National Park, on the west coast of the South tongue as Ka Roimata o Hine Hukatere or ‘the known to move as much as four metres (13
Island, which is home to some of New Zealand’s frozen tears of Hine Hukatere’. feet) a day – a speedy pace in the glacier world.
rarest birds. The fast-moving nature of the ice mountain
The history is fascinating, but it’s the present has created a network of caves, crevasses and
Franz Josef may not seem a particularly that explorers are most interested in. You can tunnels that change daily, so no two glacier
traditional Kiwi name, and that is because it isn’t hike to within 750 metres (2,460 feet) of the walks will be the same. So if you fancy a truly
– it’s Austrian. The glacier was first explored base and gaze upwards in awe at one of New once-in-a-lifetime experience, Franz Josef Glacier
in 1865 by famed German explorer Julius von Zealand’s steepest glaciers. Alternatively, you can has it all – an ever-changing landscape, a dense
Haast, who named it after Austrian emperor take a helicopter to the top of the glacier where rainforest view and the sea just a few hundred
Franz Josef I. The town surrounding the glacier you can stroll around the top – but watch out metres away.
for deep snow that can swallow a tiny traveller –

The best way to see the glacier is on an
organised hike with an experienced guide

. NEW ZEALAND .
Glacier

. Highlights .
Learn about the glacier and Maori history at

the Westland Tai Poutini visitor centre
Discover the photogenic Lake Matheson

Hit the beach (or lagoon) at Okarito

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY It’s a pleasant 1.5-hour round trip

hike from the car park to the glacier base

STAY HERE Te Waonui is a luxury, low-impact
hotel with sustainable architecture and design

EXPLORE WITH Glacier Valley Eco Tours has
half-day trips to the Glaciers and Okarito

. Best time to visit .
June to August (avoids crowds

and less ice melt)

. Useful websites .

FRANZJOSEFGLACIER.COM
NEWZEALAND.COM

GLACIERCOUNTRY.CO.NZ

141

ANTARCTICA

What’s large, hostile and used to trial missions to Mars? Antarctica – the world’s coolest continent

Oceania & Antarctica A ntarctica is the world’s last great makes it sink. This cold, heavy air accelerates Despite being 25 per cent larger than
wilderness and Earth’s coldest, windiest, downhill, creating wind gusts of over 200 Europe, Antarctica is not permanently
highest and driest continent. Around kilometres (124 miles) an hour. The sinking air at inhabited, as it is so cold and inhospitable
98 per cent of the land area lies buried beneath Vostok is so dry that some scientific researchers
kilometres of snow and ice, yet Antarctica is – pack hospital IV (intravenous) drip bags to stop Even in summer, the Sun is feeble and low in the
paradoxically – a desert. becoming dangerously dehydrated. Few clouds sky. The extreme cold partly explains why two
can form in the dry air, and most moisture huge ice sheets cloak Antarctica. The white ice
It is so inhospitable that no one lives there falls as snow or ice crystals. Any snowfall cools it further by reflecting away about 80 per
permanently, despite being 25 per cent bigger accumulates, because it can’t melt cent of incoming sunlight. Together, these ice
than Europe. This frozen continent remained sheets contain around 70 per cent of the world’s
relatively unexplored until the 19th century. If the climate wasn’t harsh enough, Antarctica fresh water. If they melted, global sea levels
Unveiling its mysteries claimed many lives. never sees daylight for part of the winter would rise by 70 metres (230 feet) and swamp
because the sun barely rises over the horizon. many of the world’s major cities.
Antarctica is definitely a worthwhile once-in-
a-lifetime experience, however, because it may Sea lions and King The East Antarctic ice sheet is the largest on
also be Earth’s quirkiest and most remarkable Cormorants rest on an isle Earth, with ice more than three kilometres (two
continent. Among its marvels is a river that miles) thick in places. Under the ice sheet are
flows inland, Mars-like valleys where NASA in the Beagle Channel some of the oldest rocks on Earth – at least
scientists test equipment for space missions, 3,000 million years old. The West Antarctic ice
and perpetually dark lakes where bacteria may sheet is smaller, and drained by huge rivers of
have survived unchanged since Antarctica had ice or glaciers. These move slowly in Antarctica’s
lush forests like the Brazilian rainforest. Living in interior, but accelerate to up to 100 metres (328
and around the Southern Ocean that encircles feet) per year towards the coast. The fastest
Antarctica are fish with antifreeze in their blood, is Pine Island glacier, which can flow at more
the world’s biggest animal, and a giant penguin than three kilometres (two miles) per year.
that is capable of surviving nine weeks without When these glaciers hit the sea, they form huge,
eating during the harsh Antarctic winter. floating sheets of ice attached to the land called
‘ice shelves’. The biggest is the Ross Ice Shelf,
Antarctica is the chilliest place on Earth. At which covers approximately the area of France.
the Russian Vostok scientific research station
in the cold, high continental interior, it can One of the world’s biggest mountain ranges
get cold enough for diesel fuel to freeze into separates the two ice sheets. The Transantarctic
icicles – even in summer. Vostok is the site of the Mountains are more than two kilometres (1.2
coldest temperature ever recorded on Earth – an miles) high and 3,300 kilometres (2,051 miles)
amazing -89.2 degrees Celsius (-128.6 degrees long – more than three times the length of the
Farenheit). For context, the temperature in most European Alps. The mountains were formed
household freezers is only about -18 degrees around 55 million years ago during a period of
Celsius (-0.4 degrees Farenheit). volcanic and geological activity. Volcanoes like
Mount Erebus are still active today.
The continent is also Earth’s windiest.
Antarctica’s ice cools the overlying air, which

142

Antarctica’s ice is melting six times faster
than it was in the 1990s – if this continues,
sea levels will rise by 17 centimetres by 2100

. ANTARCTICA .
Ice Sheet

. Highlights .
Watch the fluffy penguins huddle together
View the Southern Lights (Aurora Australis)

Visit Shackleton’s hut on Ross Island

. Ecotourism .
TRAVEL BY Once you get to Antarctica,
snowmobile is a fun way to get around
STAY HERE Whichaway Camp’s minimalist
igloos are surprisingly toasty and home-spun
EXPLORE WITH White Desert does day trips
from Cape Town, but they are expensive

. Best time to visit .
November to March, for longer daylight hours

. Useful websites .
HURTIGRUTEN.CO.UK
BIT.LY/3SVMWVX-DESERT
WHITE-DESERT.COM

29 countries maintain a
research base on Antarctica,

including Argentina

Antarctica’s main ice-free area is the McMurdo shrimp-like creatures that are the powerhouse Oceania & Antarctica
Dry Valleys, a region with conditions like Mars of Antarctica’s ecosystem and feed most of
ANTARCTIC ANTICS through which runs the continent’s longest, its predators, including seals, fish, whales and
largest river. The Onyx River carries summer penguins. They form dense swarms, with more
During the summer, around 4,400 scientists meltwater 40kilometres (25 miles) inland from than 10,000 krill in each cubic metre of water.
and support staff live on Antarctica, carrying coastal glaciers to feed Lake Vanda, which is Some swarms extend for miles and can even be
out experiments. Some are drilling and saltier at its bottom than the Dead Sea. The seen from space. Alarming recent studies show
extracting cylinders of ice more than three salinity of Dry Valley lakes like Lake Vanda allows that krill stocks have fallen by 80 per cent since
kilometres (two miles) long, to provide a record their deep water to stay liquid at temperatures the 1970s, probably due to global warming.
of climate covering perhaps the last 740,000 below the freezing point of fresh water. Other
years. The ice contains ancient air bubbles and Antarctic lakes include Lake Untersee in the All of Antarctica’s species are adapted to the
compressed layers of snow. Scientists are also East Antarctic interior, which has water with the extreme cold. Seals and whales have a thick
drilling into underground lakes like Lake Vostok, alkalinity of extra-strength laundry detergent. layer of blubber for insulation and penguins have
which may contain water and microbes isolated dense, waterproof plumage to protect them
from the outside world for a million years. Despite the harsh conditions and lack of soil, from salty, surface water at a frigid -1.8 degrees
animals and plants survive on ice-free parts Celsius (29 degrees Farenheit). Some species
Astrophysicists benefit from Antarctica’s of Antarctica. In the windswept Dry Valleys, of fish have antifreeze in their blood. Antarctic
clean, dry air. IceCube is an experiment to lichens, fungi and algae live in cracks in the rocks. icefish have transparent blood and absorb
track neutrinos created by exploding stars, Towards the coast, on islands and the peninsula, oxygen through their skin.
as these ghostly particles pass through the mosses are fed on by tiny insects, including
Earth. Another experiment is trying to detect microscopic worms, mites and midges. Some The most common birds are penguins. Of the
faint light from the Big Bang that created our insects called springtails use their own natural 17 species of Antarctic penguins, only two live
universe. Scientists are also studying the antifreeze, so they can survive temperatures on the continent itself. One is the world’s largest
feeding habits of adélie penguins, using scales of less than -25 degrees Celsius (-13 degrees penguin, the emperor penguin, which grows
to weigh them on their favourite walking routes. Farenheit). There are even two species of to 115 centimetres (four feet) tall. Being large
flowering plants. helps it to keep warm. Emperor penguins breed
on Antarctica’s sea ice during the cold, dark
In contrast, the Southern Ocean surrounding winter, enduring blizzards and low temperatures.
Antarctica is among the richest oceans in the The male penguins keep their eggs warm by
world. The annual growth and melting of sea balancing them on their feet for up to nine weeks,
ice dredges nutrients from the ocean depths, while the female goes fishing at sea. During
resulting in phytoplankton. A single litre of water this fasting period, these super-dads huddle in
can contain more than a million of these tiny groups of up to 5,000 penguins to keep warm,
plants. The phytoplankton are eaten by krill – tiny losing 45 per cent of their body weight.

“IF THEY MELTED, GLOBAL SEA LEVELS
WOULD RISE BY 70 METRES (230 FEET)”

143



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. PURE PARADISE . . METEOROLOGICAL MAGIC .

Breathtaking natural landmarks you Find out why Earth’s astronomical
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