Nzira 1 The Return of Chizarira National Park DRUM BEAT IN THE MATOBO HILLS Issue 8 AUG/SEPT 2018
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4 Aug/Sept 2018 CONTENTS NZIRA ISSUE 8 AUG/SEPT Matopos Disconnect and Connect Ancient Place of Refuge Book Launch Sua Pan In the Matopo Hills Eastern Highlands Trail Run Dean’s Restaurant, Victoria Falls Hidden Rocks 9 26 34 40 54 14 30 Hwange Safari Lodge Elephants and Albidas Race for Rhinos Drum Beat Sky Run FEATURES Image Gregg Robinson
Nzira 5 Dean’s Restaurant By Real Food Accoleisure End of the Road Bear Grylls Products Tiger Safaris 70 64 78 60 79 80 82 The Singing Chef Recipe App of the Moment Relaxation tops the Bills Games and Puzzles Travel Gear Bark of the Urban Barboon ARTIST SPOTLIGHT 19 Larry Norton CHIZARIRA 50 National Park Rehabilitation 72 THE CARRICK AMBASSADOR’S CUP
6 Aug/Sept 2018 take a much needed break from my computer, to prevent my eyes from becoming completely square and venture out into the glorious sunshine on a cool winter’s day. My thoughts are consumed by an article I had just been editing and as I feast my eyes on the golden hues spreading over the trees which line our leafy suburb, a Pied Crow passes low over my head and the definitive action of this swoop takes me back on a journey to this place which holds a special place in my heart where, instead of Pied Crows, Black Eagles and Taita Falcons soar across the rocky gorges and where the endangered rhino once roamed. This is Chizarira, where in the early 90’s was the place I called home. Home was a tent perched on a ridge adjacent to the National Park itself. Suddenly, my Pied Crow whisks me away to fond memories of an unparalleled era. As my mind is drawn away to those heady days, I delay my return to the computer for a little while longer and follow the path of my Crow. The ridge was the site of the Chizarira Wilderness Lodge that was in the process of being constructed. During that time both the park and lodge were frequented by groups of ‘overlanders’, in what I can only imagine were horrendously uncomfortable trucks with the occupants being packed in like sardines. Images of mesmerizing camp fires and aromas of freshly baked bread cooking in tin pots fill the night air as the call of a barred owl and whoop of a hyena quieten the chatter. Sadly, Chizarira took a massive knock as tourism plummeted in the late 90’s. The lodge closed down and the overlanders turned tail and drove elsewhere for that ‘adventure of a lifetime’. Today I smile, as I realize that what is happening there is exceptional. This isolated and forgotten about park is now being successfully restored through the commitment of National Parks, with the assistance of National Park Rescue, whose dedication to rehabilitating this area is already bearing fruit. I am excited at the prospect that one day soon, I will be travelling down that road again, to my old home. From the Editor Have something to share? We are always happy to receive photos, articles and letters. Please email to [email protected] Debbie Swales Chizarira Epic vistas of crystal clear, star studded night skies are overwhelming and, as dawn breaks, the camp is already buzzing with activity before the scorching heat sends us back to rest on camp beds in the dappled shade. My desire to exercise overrides any fear of bumping into big game that might have been lurking near the camp and off I trot with our camp ‘mutt’ in the lead, sometimes rather embarrassingly chasing baboons and creating a fracas that wakes the entire Zambezi Valley below. Nevertheless, Kali was great company and an extra pair of switched on eyes and ears and of course the nose that never stopped twitching. Ancient elephant trails lead down the escarpment, weaving through hollowed sandstone passages created by the rough skin of the grey giant’s bulging bellies brushing against the rocks and the great padded foot placed in exactly the same spot for hundreds of years has left its mark, literally, in the rock. Puff adders sun themselves on the trail creating yet another obstacle for the trotting duo and the deep hissing of the snake stops paws and feet alike, in mid-air. Often the rustling sound in the nearby bushes leaves you wondering if that was a buffalo, a duiker or just a fleeing lizard. Sounds are amplified and adrenaline heightens the senses and it was always a relief to get back to camp with all six legs intact. Some of the articles featured include: Evans Mabiza, working tirelessly to educate and preserve perhaps my most favourite bird, the Southern Ground Hornbill. Larry Norton, artist extraordinaire, whose passion for the bush and its wildlife extends to us through his stunning artwork. The somewhat questionable passion of Roberto Bertolettis’ extreme trail running in really tough conditions, can be vindicated considering the scenic splendour of the Eastern highlands in which the Sky Run event is held. Chris Sheppard flies us across our border to Botswana, presenting us with a spectacular bird’s-eye view of the efforts to save the rhino and I marvel at the logistics involved in pulling off such a huge event for 500 people in the middle of nowhere. Wildlife photographer and author of Elephants and Albidas, Gregg Robinson, spoils us with his outstanding images and some of the revenue from the sale of this book goes back into protecting the wildlife area that he is so passionate about. The passion of the people of Zimbabwe shines through in all these articles and with the dedication of individuals within the wildlife industry we can create more opportunities and preserve forgotten wilderness areas for generations to come. I In this issue 1992
Nzira 7 SENGWA SAFARIS Sengwa Safaris have a houseboatfor every occasion, paying special attention to all of your needs from vehicle/air transfers to meal and drinks. Phone: +263 4 703533 Cell: +263 772 296 150 Email: [email protected] www.karibahouseboats.com Contributors Publisher Mike Garden Debbie Swales Rudo Nhamoinesu Tamuka Nyoni Editor Advertising Design and Layout Printer DISCLAIMER A magazine is nothing without its content. Our contributors going above and beyond this month have been: Judy Amira Jules Costa Shelley Cox Sarah Kerr Jono Passaportis Mafungi Laura Taylor Evans Mabiza Lesanne Dunlop Mike Garden Gregg Robinson Judy Macdonald Tiger Safaris Dean Jones Chris Sheppard Roberto Bertoletti Julie Havercroft National Park Rescue Larry Norton Macphersons Jonothan Skinner Roger MacDonald Nigel Newmarch Far and Wide Niall Rooney Dave Dell [email protected] +263(0) 772 209 162 [email protected] Tel: 024 2782720 [email protected] Tel: 024 2782720 [email protected] +263(0) 775 363 706 Paragon Business Forms (Pvt) Ltd 17035 Cedora Road Graniteside Harare Tel: 024 773021-27 08677006177 [email protected] Whilst every effort is made to check the content of any article, the directors will not be held responsible for any errors or omissions in such articles. We accept that all articles and photographs sent to us are the sole responsibility of the authors and we do not accept liabitity for any misrepresentation. Events listed, the dates thereof, and prices are printed using information supplied to us that we are satis昀椀ed is correct at the time of printing. Nzira publication is the exclusive property of Ndeipi (Pvt) Ltd. Nzira Travel Zimbabwe produces a bi-monthly travel magazine that is aimed at showcasing the beauty of the country and the various outstanding destinations that it has to offer. To subscribe to Nzira please send your details and payment to our Softrite of昀椀ces at 37 Victoria Drive, Newlands, Harare. Your issue will be delivered every month. Subscription costs are $35 for 6 months. SUBSCRIPTIONS, DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR Cover Image Gregg Robinson a b v InfoNzira nziramagazine Nzira Issue 8 AUG/SEPT 2018 The Return of Chizarira National Park DRUM BEAT IN THE MATOBO HILLS $5
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Nzira 9 Hwange Safari Lodge Article Mike Garden Images Nigel Newmarch and Mike Garden
10 Aug/Sept 2018 In the late 70s and early 80s there used to be a Super Six Holiday special where one could 昀氀y with Air Zimbabwe from Harare to Hwange, Victoria Falls and Kariba spending two nights in each place. These trips were popular for both locals and tourists staying overnight at Hwange Safari Lodge, Kingdom Hotel and Caribbea Bay hotels respectively. The planes were always full and there was a party atmosphere every weekend. All of the rooms look out over the waterhole at the front of the lodge with magni昀椀cent acacia trees dotted appropriately around the surrounding lawns. The well-known viewing platform is still there for visitors to relax with a cold drink to watch a wide variety of wild life drink their full as the sun goes down at the end of another glorious day in Africa. On my 昀椀rst evening I had the pleasure of viewing a large herd of Elephant meandering slowly in front of the long wooden fence that separates the Lodge grounds from the pan in front. I had the pleasure of spending a few nights at Hwange Safari Lodge recently and spent time chatting to the General Manager, Nigel Newmarch. He told me that their 昀椀rst priority, when they took over the management of the lodge two years ago, had been to rehabilitate those core issues, like generators and hot water geysers, that had needed urgent attention. Times and demand changed and, for one reason or another, Hwange fell out of favour. Then two years ago, the Legacy Group of Hotels saw an opportunity to revive 5 leading hotels around the country. In their opinion Hwange Safari Lodge has a long dormant potential as a holiday destination. The Victoria Falls Airport has been upgraded and travelling by road is much more of pleasure now than in the past. The drive from Bulawayo is just 260km with verges thick with magni昀椀cent trees for most of the way. Food is always an important consideration in any resort and their new chef has given fresh impetus to the daily meals. Over the next year they will be upgrading the restaurant; all the bathrooms; and, the bedroom linen. Hwange Safari Lodge is a large venue with 99 bedrooms and they are currently adding in a conference tent on the outskirts to cater for an anticipated increase in conferences over the next year or two. Hwange Safari Lodge
Nzira 11 Hwange Safari Lodge. By the time we reached this spot 2 separate prides of lioness and young adult lion had taken up position in the centre of the road – 14 in total! So we waited and watched a very unusual, yet delightful,confrontation with lots of roaring and mock charges between the two groups. Hwange Safari Lodge is an affordable alternative for people wanting to have a comfortable stay in an area of the country hosting a vast array of wild life ‘far from the madding crowd’ . A large noticeboard in the foyer lists all of the wildlife seen by guests on each day of the current month. They have recently purchased two new Landcruisers so that guests can be driven around the pan and into the nearby estate for either day or night viewing of game. The Hwange National Park is just 13km away so I took a drive there on my last day to join friends for a compulsory Braai (barbeque) in the early evening. At about 9pm one of the guides gave us a call to say that there were two black maned lion lying just 10 metres off the side of the road near has a long dormant potential as a Holiday Destination. Safari Hwange Lodge EMAIL WEBSITE CALL [email protected] http://legacyhotels.co.za +263 772 132 146/7
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14 Aug/Sept 2018 Matopos. Ancient Place of Refuge Article and Images Sarah Kerr 14 Aug/Sept 2018
Nzira 15 n southwest Zimbabwe lies a littleknown treasure, a magni昀椀cent granite landscape whose hills, valleys, balancing rocks and caves are calling to be explored. The area is known as the Matobo or Matopos Hills and it lies 35 kilometres south of the city of Bulawayo. The name Matobo means ‘Bald Head’ in Ndebele and is thought to reference the striking rock formations, often weathered to resemble human forms. The hills cover an area of 3100 km² with 424 km² of this being dedicated to National Park, while the remainder is dotted with pastoral villages. The joyous mosaic of tumbled granite formations, grasslands and wooded valleys appears to have been assembled by an imaginative giant. The landscape has been shaped by billions of years of erosion, 昀椀re, wind and ice into extraordinary forms ranging from huge granite monoliths, several kilometres wide to balancing ‘castles’ of rock. Because of the natural shelters provided by the rocks, the area has had uninterrupted human occupation from the early Stone Age right through to today. This is evidenced by a rich narrative of ancient rock art and archaeological sites. The same shelter also provides a home to a staggering richness of 昀氀ora and fauna. In recognition of their unique value, the Matopos Hills were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003. The status was awarded as a result of the area’s spiritual and cultural signi昀椀cance to local peoples, its high concentration of historic rock art and archaeological sites and the biodiverse sanctuary it provides for plant and wildlife. One of the most striking ways in which the incredible 昀氀ora of the Matopos makes itself apparent is in the broad strokes and splashes of gaudy colour that adorn the time-worn rock-faces. Chartreuse, 昀氀uorescent yellow, silvergrey and deep orange swathes are the result of crustose lichens that tightly adhere to the rock-face. Studies suggest that some of these can be many hundreds of years old and their delicate nature means they can easily be destroyed (it takes up to 昀椀fty years for the scars left by car tyres to grow over.) Despite little study, over 78 species of lichen have been found here so far. ‘The joyous mosaic of tumbled granite formations, grasslands and wooded valleys appears to have been assembled by an imaginative giant’ I The unique geomorphology of the Hills results in a large number of microclimates and soil types in the relatively compact area. Within a few hundred metres you can travel from exposed and windswept rock tops to marshy grasslands and dense woodland valleys below.
16 Aug/Sept 2018 The rock hyrax (Procavia capensis) and yellow spotted hyrax (Heterohyrax brucei) are found in large numbers and are regarded as the most important of the prey species due to their local abundance. These prey species, in particular, the hyrax provide a food source for a high density of predators. Wildlife is also found here although numbers have been impacted by human presence in recent times. The Matobo National Park within the Hills possesses one of the largest populations of Leopard (Panthera pardus). When viewing the many-layered paintings in hues of rust, cinnamon and ochre, one cannot help but imagine the hands that painted them. The rich heritage of magni昀椀cent frescoes left adorning the empty cave walls is inspiring. Eventually, the Khoi-San were displaced by iron-using pastoralists in about the 1st Century AD. From after this time, there are many Iron Age archaeological sites including clay ovens, pottery, burial sites and more. Adding to the multilayered human history, the hills more recently provided a refuge for the Ndebele and the Karanga tribes when they went to war against European colonial settlers in 1893 and 1896. Clay granaries that evidence this can still be seen in some caves. Both the graves of the Ndebele warrior-king Mzilikazi and the European settler Cecil John Rhodes can be found in the Matopos Hills. The Ndebele people inhabit the hills to this day and regard them as the sacred home of their ancestors. The incredible landscape provides a living tradition of shrines and sacred places that is vitally important to them. The Ndebele accord great respect to the environment and say that despoiling it disrespects their ancestors and in this way, the intangible beliefs around the Matopos Hills contribute to the preservation of the landscape. The Ndebele have several shrines and sacred areas in the hills dedicated to the god of their ancestors ‘Mwari’ and important annual spiritual traditions are carried out at these. When you visit the Matopos it is the heady combination of the historic, the natural and the spiritual that will draw you back. The aweinspiring geological landscape has been a place of refuge for both man and beast for thousands of years and I am certain that as you walk amongst the ancient rocks you will 昀椀nd it is one for you too. However, the nature of the habitat that provides such good lairs for these animals also makes them notoriously hard to view here. Within the National Park, a critically important sanctuary of 100 km² has been created for two endangered species, the White Rhino (Ceratotherium simum) and Black rhino (Diceros bicornis). It is possible to track and view these animals on foot with a professional guide. There is no feeling as incredible as standing mere metres from these powerful animals that are paradoxically so vulnerable and in danger of fading away and it is a good reminder of why sanctuaries and protected places such as the one here are so vital. Rhinoceros have existed here for thousands of years, a fact con昀椀rmed by the rhino depicted in the ancient art that adorns many cave walls here. The Matopos Hills contain over 3000 registered rock art sites. The art was created by the hunter-gatherer Khoi-San people who resided here until about 2,000 years ago with some paintings being estimated at 13,000 years in age. The sheer scale and beauty of many of these are incredible and bear witness to the long journey from the Stone Age to recent times. Ultimately it is this underpinning of diverse habitats and 昀氀ora that gives rise to the areas bio-diverse wildlife and stunning beauty. In total over 400 bird species and 88 mammal species have been recorded in the Matopos Hills. The relatively small habitat sizes and rocky outcrops provide the perfect territories for territorial mammals such as the klipspringer (Oreotragus oreotragus), the common duiker (Sylvicapra grimmia) and the steenbok (Raphicerus campestris). Jameson’s red rock hare (Pronolagus randensis), vervet monkey (Chlorocebus pygerythrus, chacma baboon (Papio ursinus) and many species of lizards, are common. The area boasts more than 210 tree species, over 100 grasses, 17 species of wild orchid and many aloes, proteas and herbs. Of these, there are at least 5 plant species endemic to the Matopos area. The region also supports the western-most populations in southern Africa of a number of water-dependant plant species despite the area being surrounded by semi-arid savannah. Species include the mountain acacia, tree-fern, wild pear and the paperbark tree. ‘rocky outcrops provide the perfect territories for territorial mammals’
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Nzira 19 When you 昀椀rst view one of Larry Norton’s oil paintings what immediately strikes you is the way the scenes pull you in. I have stood mesmerised by how the landscapes evoke distant memories and a sense of place, previously hidden by the hustle of life. Viewing the light spilling through the trees, I can feel the sun warming me; the ripples on the water bring the feeling of a light breeze caressing skin on a summer afternoon, images of dry brush invokes the sound of crunching leaves, the soft cooing of a mourning dove and the scent of sage. It is only after this that you notice the painting itself, something I credit to the realism and detail in his works. Many people 昀椀rst mistake them for particularly beautiful photographs. It is only when you pull yourself away from the scene that you notice the 昀椀ne brushstrokes and the glaze of the oil paints. Larry’s skill and true artistry lie in his ability to faithfully recreate the scenes that speak to him in a way that allows others to share in these moments. It is this unique ability that has allowed him to carve a career in what is undoubtedly the trickiest and most subjective of 昀椀elds and become an internationally recognized wildlife artist. Today, Larry works from his home studio in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe where he also has a gallery. Larry often travels in order to gather reference materials and to work in the 昀椀eld. I was lucky enough to get the chance to ask the artist a few questions. Larry Norton was born in 1963 and grew up on a farm in the northeast of Zimbabwe. He spent what sounds like an idyllic childhood hunting, 昀椀shing and spending time in the iconic landscape of the Zambezi Valley with his family. Larry said ‘from that exposure I think came my main inspiration to paint the African landscape and wildlife.’ I am always fascinated when viewing Larry’s work by his sense of proportion and skill and wonder how his talent came about. I asked Larry how he came to make art and he replied "It was a... an instinct really that was always in me, so I did it spontaneously from such a young age. I was drawing by the time I was 3, by the time I was 6 I could really draw anything and I always loved it. It was a compulsion". This sense that it is something he ‘must do’ is echoed by Buck O’Donoghue, a 昀椀lmmaker from Bad Rabbit Studio who has documented Larry’s work in the 昀椀eld. After spending time with Larry, Buck wrote: ‘Larry’s passion is his true art form; he paints because he must. Artist Spotlight Larry Norton Article Sarah Kerr Images Larry Norton ‘When you first view one of Larry Norton’s oil paintings what immediately strikes you is the way the scenes pull you in.’ Artist Spotlight It is rare to 昀椀nd someone who has the guts to chase their dreams, and do so regardless of how seemingly impossible the aim or how unconventional the lifestyle. I think that is one of the markers of a genius – belief, purpose and dogged persistence.’ Nzira 19
20 Aug/Sept 2018 Edge of Heaven
Nzira 21 At Victoria Falls there is a place and a time, where heaven seems to touch the waters of the Zambezi river. It is when the molten orb of rising sun explodes through the mist, 昀椀ngers of light penetrating torn shrouds of spray and touching the turbulence at the lip of the Falls. Silhouetted branches and limbs of trees, their forms blanketed by atmospheric layers, allude to Livingstone Island. In contrast to the sky and ether is the vertical fall of shadowed waters into the gorge and the dark basalt cliff and foliage of a section of Cataract Island. Painting this elusive sight required immense restraint to allow the abstract forms of spray and light to dominate the de昀椀ned features of the landscape. It was a magni昀椀cent thing to see and paint. Although Larry always drew, he initially didn’t consider that he could take art seriously and after 昀椀nishing high school he travelled to Australia where he obtained a degree in agriculture. He then spent a year working as a rafting guide on the Zambezi River , (a body of water where he continues to kayak and which continues to be a source of inspiration). After this he decided to dedicate himself to art. Larry spent 5 and a half months under the mentorship of acclaimed wildlife artist Simon Combes in the UK which was immensely helpful to him. He also cites the wildlife artist and conservationist David Shepherd, fellow Zimbabwean Craig Bone and Eric Forlee as helpful in昀氀uences in his career. Larry works mainly in the oils for which he has become so wellknown but while in the 昀椀eld he does use watercolour, charcoal and pencil. His work aims to celebrate the African landscape, in particular, the wild areas of Zimbabwe that he holds so dear and in this aim, he is undertaking a massive project. Entitled “Massive Paintings of Zimbabwe” he aims to complete a series of 8 epic landscapes, each 2 and a half metres in length depicting iconic regions of Zimbabwe. Each of these requires a large amount of 昀椀eldwork in order to capture both the accurate rendering of the landscape and something almost ethereal, that ‘essence’ of place that draws you into Larry’s works. Often his paintings are an amalgamation of moments are most true to a place; whether the large bull elephants of Mana Pools or the wheeling overhead of a Bateleur (short-tailed) eagle. The short 昀椀lm ‘The Long sands of Gonarezhou’ which can be viewed on Youtube shows how the experiences had and what is seen in the 昀椀eld translate into the 昀椀nal piece. Artist Spotlight Edge of Heaven
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Nzira 23 I and countless others would agree that Larry has achieved his aim here and for those who love Africa’s wild places, the art of Larry Norton can provide a soothing respite in which to escape and a chance to celebrate these special and often threatened places.You can view Larry’s art in the Larry Norton Gallery at Victoria Falls Hotel or on his website: www.larrynorton.co.za He undertakes commissions which are surely the best way to capture a memory and invest in a piece of art that will provide meaning. You can also follow him on The Larry Norton Gallery Facebook page and Instagram at larry.norton and view the video ‘Long Sands of Gonarezhou’ on YouTube. Larry states ‘I always hope that my work inspires a sense of place, that there is an emotional reaction to the work and that the viewer is transported to that location. In many cases, I hope that it’s a nostalgic feeling that brings the person back to these places that mean so much to me. If someone is on another continent or in another country that it brings Africa into his or her home and into his or her life. I’m always amazed but don’t fully understand the power of a painting to move people. It’s something that has always fascinated me.’
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26 Aug/Sept 2018 Elephants andAlbidas BOOK LAUNCH Article LAURA TAYLOR Images GREGG ROBINSON 26 Aug/Sept 2018
Nzira 27 nyone who loves the bush as much as photographer, Gregg Robinson, will also know the feelings of amazement, respect and gratitude that arise each time a spectacular scene unfolds in the wild. In the Zambezi Valley, this is especially true. An incredible part of the world where sweeping vistas and magni昀椀cent wildlife combine to surprise and delight at every turn. It was over many camp昀椀re chats with friends and in particular, John Stevens, renowned safari guide and one of the founders of the Zambezi Elephant Fund (ZEF), that Gregg was inspired to put together a collection of his most beautiful photographs centred around the iconic elephants and Faidherbia albida trees. The intention was not just to celebrate all that the Zambezi Valley means to him, but also to help contribute to the work that the Zambezi Elephant Fund and its implementing partners do to help protect elephants and their habitats. The book, Elephants & Albidas is the stunning result, a picture-昀椀lled tribute that has a strong, urgent meWssage for all of us who love this most precious gift that is our natural heritage. Gregg got together with a team of like-minded Zimbabweans to create the book, namely Gareth Hook, renowned artist and illustrator, Laura Taylor, ZEF volunteer and freelance writer and Danielle Demblon, a talented designer.The idea was to take the reader on a journey through two of Gregg’s most favourite parts of the Zambezi Valley, Mana Pools National Park and Matusadona National Park. The Zambezi Valley, from Kariba Dam to Dande is the longest contiguous stretch (240 km) of wildlife and wilderness along the Zambezi River’s entire length of 2,700 km from source to mouth. All its occupants are global treasures and deserve centre stage in the combination of conservation efforts around the world. As you follow Gregg and Laura’s travels, you too can witness the sheer strength of an elephant as it rises up on its hind legs to pull at a temptingly tender branch or hear the sound of the stupendous splashes made by young elephants at play in the shallows of Lake Kariba or perhaps to walk stealthily through the thick jesse, stopping to marvel at a dung beetle’s fancy footwork or just sit quietly in front of the evening camp昀椀re, re昀氀ecting on another glorious day in our beautiful Zimbabwean bush whilst the unseen primordial sounds of the African wild penetrate the night air. ‘The book, Elephants & Albidas is the stunning result, a picture-filled tribute that has a strong, urgent message for all of us who love this most precious gift that is our natural heritage.’ A For further info contact [email protected]
28 Aug/Sept 2018 As John Stevens says in his foreword, surely (this book will) take its place as a worthy partner in preserving and protecting what is so precious to us all.” Indeed, Gregg’s photographs present the extent of the beauty that beholds every visitor to these stunning parts of the world, but more importantly, they remind us that this beauty can be transient, as 昀氀eeting as the king昀椀sher’s dive. Incredibly, Zimbabwe, after Botswana, has the second-largest elephant population in Africa. So all the more reason to protect it with all the resources we can. As John has commented, we simply cannot stand by and watch whilst the very existence of these gentle giants that have roamed the face of Africa for many years, is threatened. ‘Incredibly, Zimbabwe, after Botswana, has the second-largest elephant population in Africa. So all the more reason to protect it with all the resources we can.’ Elephants and Albidas
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30 Aug/Sept 2018 DISCONNECT
Nzira 31 Hidden Rocks, nestled amongst Msasa trees on the side of a beautiful granite rock face, could also be called ‘Hidden Gem’. A unique location, spectacular vistas and the fact that one cannot help but connect with nature while there, makes this an enchanting escape. The short drive from Harare to Juliasdale will get you out of the of昀椀ce and into the bush in no time! Alternative accommodation offered at Hidden Rocks includes a simple rondavel with a private braaing area. This is the cheaper option and a giant leap from camping but without the amenities of the cottage. A lovely campsite is also available, which has a spotless ablution block, large 昀椀re pit, and a great ‘chill out’ thatched hut with a massive 昀椀replace and very comfortable couches to read books, chat and drink wine. This option is recommended for groups of friends and those looking for a bit more of an adventure! There is also a fantastic bar, with arguably the best view in the whole of the Eastern Highlands, where you can de-stress with a beer. Emma, who has recently taken over the place is happy to serve you a cold one and is wonderful company as well! Whether its hiking through the pristine forest of msasas, trout 昀椀shing in the nearby lake, a few rounds of golf or early morning yoga, there are so many things you can do whilst staying at Hidden Rocks that will truly help you relax, unwind, and more importantly, disconnect. YOU CAN GET IN TOUCH WITH EMMA ON [email protected] Too often, we travel far and wide to experience a ‘break’, supposedly taking time out to relax, enjoy and spend quality time with our family and loved ones, only to end up wasting countless hours on the phone, checking our emails, Whatsapp and social media. Hidden Rocks is located near Juliasdale, Eastern Highlands. Chained to work or our desire to post on Instagram, one rarely connects with the world around, savouring the special memories made at that moment in time. Hidden Rocks is basic but charming in its simplicity and this is exactly what makes it so special. The best option on offer is an inviting, selfcatering cottage built into the surrounding granite rock face. A cozy double story with a loftstyle bedroom upstairs, a quaint kitchen, lounge and bathroom below, as well as a much needed 昀椀replace to cuddle up around in the chilly evenings. This is the perfect romantic cocoon for a couple or a fun escape for the family. AND CONNECT AT HIDDEN ROCKS Article and Images Lesanne Dunlop Would like to know more ? Disconnect and Connect
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Nzira 33 There is a Shona adage which goes ‘kusatenda huroyi” translated “a lack of gratitude is witchcraft”. What better way to say Siyabonga, Tinotenda, Thank You, to our loyal and valued customers than a FREE trip for every 4 domestic 昀氀ights between the 13th of July and 30th September 2018. #Fly4Free This promotion is a reward to you our loyal customers who have continued to support and 昀氀y Air Zimbabwe through the tumultuous season we have weathered in the recent past. Zimbabwe is open for Business and so is Air Zimbabwe as it continues to play its role of facilitating trade and domestic tourism. We also 昀氀y the Harare-Victoria Falls every day including a connection between Bulawayo and Victoria Falls every Saturday. #Fly4Free is speci昀椀cally targeted at domestic routes promoting and enabling travel for business and leisure to Bulawayo and the mighty Victoria Falls which has also been designated as a Special Economic Zone. For your travel convenience, the national Airline 昀氀ies twice daily to Bulawayo allowing our valued clients a convenient shuttle between the two cities. Visit our website; www.airzimbabwe.aero or call Reservations on +263 242 575111 or your Travel Agent to make your booking through to payment and start building your trips in order to qualify for this exciting promotion. Air Zimbabwe launches #Fly4Free promotion Harare/Vic Falls/Harare Daily Harare/Bulawayo/Harare Twice Daily Harare / Joburg / Harare Daily Bulawayo / Vic Falls / Bulawayo Saturday Harare / Dar es Salaam / Harare Tuesday/Saturday Bulawayo / Joburg / Bulawayo Sunday/Monday/Wednesday/ Friday Our current route network
34 Aug/Sept 2018 Race For Rhinos Sua Pan Botswana Article and Images Chris Sheppard 34 Aug/Sept 2018
Nzira 35 ‘The Puma Flying Lions water skiing on Sua Pan’
36 Aug/Sept 2018 eroplanes, race, world record, Magadigadi Pan, Botswana – are you interested? an excited Warwick Broad almost shouted down the phone to me earlier this year. All this information took a while to sink in while he went on about how exciting this prospect was to him. Race for Rhinos was holding its fourth event in Botswana and had decided to raise the bar by challenging the World Air Race participant record up to 120 aircraft from last year’s 104. An annual event staged, in or nearby the great salt pans of the Magadigadi saw the competitors racing around the park trying to beat their handicap speed. I agreed to join Warwick as his navigator. My brother Peter, Dave Rogers, Andrew Brown, Stu Gunn, Solly and Miena Ferrera made up four teams from Zimbabwe. The Race for Rhinos is an initiative of the Botswana Government and Chris Briers was the race organizer. It complements the South African Air Race Circuit and has the added bene昀椀t of highlighting the plight of the Rhinos worldwide, but obviously focusing on Botswana. The 2017 edition of the Race for Rhinos saw four rhinos being released into the Magadigadi National Park. The South African bred animals were supplied to Botswana on a country to country arrangement. The Botswana Minister of Environment, Conservation, Natural Resources and Tourism Affairs, Tshekedi Khama, explained further that a deal, swopping Rhino for Wild Dogs, was to be explored. The Minister was on hand to issue out the trophies at the end of the Race. Sua Pan was the location for the event. Race For Rhinos Sua Pan - Botswana A Warwick Broad (pictured) and navigator Chris Sheppard finishing in 46th position in a Cessna 172 Dave “Duff” Rogers, Pete Sheppard and Chris Sheppard Capital Sounds events spokesman Brian Emmenis told the competitors that ‘Sua City’, which consisted of the conglomeration of tents, prefab structures and a hastily prepared air昀椀eld, was built in just ten days. Prior to that the ground was just bush.
Nzira 37 How many people can say they have had the privilege of 昀氀ying over one of the greatest wonders of Southern Africa – the Botswana salt pans of the Magadigadi? Day one took us south of Sua City in a big arc with 4 turn points. The terrain is 昀氀at for the most part and the brightness of re昀氀ected sun from the white salt made for eye searing pain at times. Our set speed was just above normal cruising speed and the aircraft was operating just shy of the red on each dial which for us super careful Zimbabwean pilots was a little uncomfortable. Navigation was relatively easy. It was more about keeping the pilot’s concentration on his heading and ensuring the right altitude. Warwick! Bearing! Altitude! Ten minutes later, How is your compass? What height? and so on. I kept a nominal watch on my map to ensure we were on track, on time. The departure was something else altogether. We had set take off times, roughly thirty seconds behind the plane in front of us. We were marshalled onto the airstrip with hand signals from ground crew right up to the point where a red/ amber/green light would 昀椀nally tell us when to go. An amazing achievement that housed over 500 people consisting of the aircrew, support staff, foreign guests and dignitaries, all in tents. There were continuous hot water showers, clean toilets, lighting, beds and bedding in each tent, a huge hall where three meals a day were provided, a coffee machine which had three baristas working twenty hours a day preparing take away cappuccinos (for free!!) Two days of races were staged, each just over 210NM (approx 388km) which, in our Cessna 182 1967 model, took us two hours twelve minutes to complete.
38 Aug/Sept 2018 However, the sun always comes up and winter in the Magadigadi is a very cold affair at dawn. A speaker system blared out Reveille followed by get-up-and-go music. By this time the cappuccino machine was in full operation, providing a caffeine 昀椀x to keep us awake for the rest of the day. The 昀椀nal day pitted the aircraft against each other using handicaps and the results from the previous day. If everything went according to plan the slowest planes took off 昀椀rst, with the fastest one last and at the end of the set route everyone, all 116 machines, would pass over the 昀椀nish line at the same time. Whilst we 昀氀ew around the course, we slowly overtook a few planes and as we drew near the 昀椀nish line a jagged gaggle of much quicker ones went 昀氀ying past us. Our speed was about 135kts, the fastest plane ran at over 200kts. Warwick Broad, the pilot, with his navigator, Chris Sheppard ended up 46th. Andrew Brown and Stu Gunn 76th, Solly and Miena did not 昀椀nish on Day 1 due to technical issues but performed very well on day 2. Great national pride rested with the team of Peter Sheppard and Dave Rogers 昀氀ying a Glasair Sportsman who topped the Zimbabwean rankings with a more than respectable 5th overall. Was the World Record achieved? Certainly the 116 participants beat the previous Air Race attendance of 104. More importantly, the event raised much needed awareness of the plight that Rhinos in Africa face. Every day, each aircraft had to be scrutinized for any arti昀椀cial navigational devices and the crew had to be on hand when the search was done. The exercise was repeated at the end of the race. All you had to work with was an old 1:250,000 map, your compass, Direction Indicator (DI) and airspeed indicator. Cheating Accommodation was in two man was not an option. dome tents, erected in lines, with two beds inside and cable supplying power for a single light bulb. The nights were an experience. Our bodies, fuelled with free cappuccinos, made sleep a dif昀椀cult target, so I lay there thinking about the day’s events well into the night. Not that I have ever done this, but I can imagine that sleeping near a pan 昀椀lled with amorous bullfrogs would have had this same auditory result. Tents offer absolutely no sound proo昀椀ng so snoring from a tent some thirty meters away might well have been right inside your own canvas boudoir. Get ten or so guttural breathers snorting in discordance and the night can seem to never end. Due to the huge number of aircraft, the radio had to be kept clear in case of emergencies. Your run-up had to be done well in time, so when the green light lit up, the hammer went down, hurtling you down the runway with other planes still clearly visible just in front of you. The discipline was exceptional. After each day’s race, the afternoons were 昀椀lled with various air displays by aerobatic aircraft. The team Raptors and the star of the show The Puma Flying Lions displayed their skills by skiing on the water less than a hundred meters away from a shoreline 昀椀lled with awestruck spectators. “An amazing achievement that housed over 500 people consisting of the aircrew, support staff, foreign guests and dignitaries”
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Nzira 41 DRUM BEAT IN THE MATOBO HILLS Words Evans Mabiza Images Roger MacDonald and Evans Mabiza Evans would like to pass on his immense gratitude to his coresearchers, Patience Shito and Merlyn Nkomo, as well as to the Mabula Ground AHornbill Project (South Africa) for their support and as a reference to some of the 昀椀ndings in this article. FROM EVANS his is a story of a love affair dating 11 years back. A love affair, not just of the majestic hills that punctuate the Matobo, nor is it of the cultural and historical richness of the hills that showcase Zimbabwe in its natural splendour. It is a story of a bird whose deep booming call resonates through the majestic hills signifying the break of a new day. The drumbeat of Africa. The onset of the rains, a cold spell nearing but sadly, a call increasingly becoming a desperate call for survival. Commonly known as Ihundundu in Matobo, owing to its deep call, the Southern ground hornbill Bucorvus leadbeateri is in swift decline and this is quanti昀椀ed in areas where populations are closely monitored with the species now meeting the IUCN criteria for being regionally endangered for both South Africa and Namibia. It is classi昀椀ed as Vulnerable in the Southern African Red Data Book and is also listed on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species, as Vulnerable with a decreasing population. T A global down listing from its previous status of “‘Least Concern’”. Bucorvus means ‘large crow-like’ bird and leadbeateri comes from Benjamin Leadbeater, a Victorian naturalist from London. Being a biological hotspot, Matobo offers a diversity of wildlife with some of the most charismatic creatures. For me, the story began with a drum beat like sound, echoing in the hills. A sound that saw me clamber over smooth whaleback dwalas and castle kopjes to investigate. For my trouble the reward was majestic, ‘turkey like’ looking birds with huge long bills and puffed up red wattles. Little did I know that a love affair that would change my life was born that day and 11 years later I 昀椀nd myself entwined in the everyday lives of these magni昀椀cent birds.
42 Aug/Sept 2018 The ground hornbill is a large bird with black plumage and very characteristic red facial skin and is the largest of the 54 hornbill species that are distributed across Asia, India and sub-Saharan Africa.They are long-lived birds (50 to 60 years) and the largest co-operative breeding bird in the world living in groups of 2 to 12 individuals that occupy, and vigorously defend, large territories of up to 100 km2. These groups can consist of either a single breeding pair or a group with a dominant breeding pair and helpers of various ages. They nest high up in large trees with sizeable cavities, sometimes in holes on cliffs or earth banks. These monogamous birds breed during the summer, with egg-laying in September to December, usually after the 昀椀rst good rains. In 80% of clutches, the breeding female lays two eggs and the second egg is laid three to 昀椀ve days after the 昀椀rst. The difference in size of eggs results in difference of chick sizes with the 昀椀rst hatched chick weighing about 250g whilst its sibling hatched 3-5 days later and weighing just 60g will always die from dehydration and starvation. Drum Beat In the Matobo Hills
Nzira 43 Fledging occurs around 86 days after hatching. It takes six years for a young bird to reach adulthood and it most probably does not start breeding even then as it 昀椀rst has to become a dominant alpha bird in a group. Research shows that successful breeding in females in the wild would be around 15-17 years old. This is not good for a struggling population as the birds cannot repopulate quickly enough to avoid extinction. They are bulky birds and take off in 昀氀ight is slow, resulting in road carnage. Cooperative breeders and being carnivorous also adds to the threat of their survival. Other threats include loss of nesting sites and habitat, persecution for challenging their re昀氀ection and breaking windows in houses, accidental poisoning intended for problem predators, accidental snaring intended for small mammals, trade in live birds for personal collections and zoos, trade of body parts for traditional medicine and rituals. Formally distributed throughout Africa south of the Equator, this species of hornbill has disappeared from much of its former range, maybe as much as 70% in South Africa, and extensive areas in Zimbabwe. This is caused by a number of expanding anthropogenic threats coupled with a biology and life history traits that make the species more vulnerable to extinction. Being long-lived birds, they take several years to mature and eventually start reproducing very late and are vulnerable to predation by any of the various threats before adulthood. ‘A story of a bird whose deep booming call resonates through the majestic hills signifying the break of a new day’
44 Aug/Sept 2018 Lead ammunition fragments remaining in offal left in the bush after a hunt, if consumed, cause either outright death or subtle physiological and behavioural changes that lead to death in time. On the brighter side, through a system of taboos and cultural norms that prohibit desecration, the longstanding intangible heritage of indigenous traditional religious beliefs and practices are still instrumental in the preservation of the hornbills. Despite a fast changing world and a shift in perceptions and views towards African tradition and culture, the ground hornbills 昀椀nd themselves still sitting at the high table of strong traditional reverence in the Matobo district. The ground hornbill’s social, cultural and natural relevance is highly in昀氀uential to the villagers’ everyday life. Most families are subsistence farmers so rain is, of course, a fundamental element of survival and people here believe the hornbills are vital to ensuring a fruitful rainy season through their deep call. Many believe its extinction may greatly alter their way of life. Tribal laws prohibit persecution of the species and any perpetrators are exiled from the community. The death of a ground hornbill is received with heavy hearts and equates to that of a human being and a traditional burial is conducted by the elderly. Anything shy of this is believed to invite prolonged drought spells. They also believe that when one kills a hornbill they will go mad or will invite death upon their kin. Bizarre as some of these beliefs may seem, surveys have exposed that they are still held strong to this day and have contributed immensely to the growing population of hornbills in Matobo. Through the Children and Nature Conservation Zimbabwe Trust (www.cncztrust.org) we also conduct environmental workshops in rural schools and communities who contribute immensely to the research. Armed with years of ground hornbill research and through collaboration, we are now able to track changes in population levels and have data useful for the development of sound management policies and conservation strategies. For myself, I still 昀椀nd myself listening out for that one beat. A beat that changed my life and the beat in my own heart, forever. Evans has a B.Sc. Hon in Psychology and over 17 years’ experience working with community and wildlife conservation and research projects, such as the Department of National Parks & Wildlife Management authority and the Natural History Museum. He coordinates all operations and works closely with all CNCZ activities. He is responsible for the existence and highly contributes to the success of the project and its efforts in the Matobo rural community. Evans is co-author of a 2011 paper “An Acoustic analysis of Lion Roars and also contributed to the Ground hornbill research, paper (Witteveen et al.2013). [email protected] [email protected] www.cncztrust.org +263772975542 Founder of the Children and Nature Conservation Zimbabwe Trust (CNCZ). Chief researcher (Southern Ground Hornbill Project) Evans Mabiza Kopje: a small hill in a generally 昀氀at area. Dwala: Ndebele name for a whaleback shaped rock. Notes Drum Beat In the Matobo Hills
Nzira 45 altogethe r Africaís Finest
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50 Aug/Sept 2018 s Zimbabwe’s third largest National Park, Chizarira is probably the least known, and yet most diverse in terms of its different ecological zones within the park, ranging from lowveld valley vegetation with Mopane forests and Baobabs, to highveld broad-leaf Miombo woodlands. It is without a doubt one of the most mysterious, dramatic and remote wilderness areas and, unquestionably, one of the most spectacular landscapes with the most breath-taking views available in Zimbabwe today. Proclaimed as a Reserve in 1958, the National Park was then gazetted to give sanctuary to wildlife driven out of the Zambezi Valley during the formation and rising waters of Lake Kariba. At an estimated 2000 square kilometres, the National Park is primarily situated atop the magni昀椀cent Zambezi escarpment mountains which are deeply grooved with thickly wooded gorges. Often referred to as “Home of the Hidden Gorges”, the park contains a number of deeply incised gorges and ravines which slice through the rugged and jagged mountain terrain, particularly in the north of the park where the Sengwa river cuts through on its path to Lake Kariba. The name ‘Chizarira’ is derived from the local Tonga word, ‘Sijalila’, which means ‘Great Barrier’ and stands as reference to the imposing Zambezi escarpment which drops down to the Zambezi valley 昀氀oor over 600m below. The park’s north-eastern edge is marked by Tundazi, a spectacularly high mountain which, Chizarira. Article Shelley Cox Images National Park Rescue A