Nzira Issue 13

NZ RA Travel Zimbabwe Issue 13 AUG/SEPT 2019 Solitude on the Zambezi River Banks

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4Aug/Sept 2019 Publisher Mike Garden mikeg@softrite.co.zw +263 (0) 772 209 162 Editor Julie Havercroft julie@bindu.co.zw Tel: 024 2782720 Advertising Rudo Nhamoinesu sales@softrite.co.zw Tel: 024 2782720 Design and Layout Tamuka Nyoni content@nzira.co.zw +263 (0) 775 363 706 Printer Sable Press Unit 21-22 Bluffhill Industrial Park Bluffhill Harare Tel: 024 331 637/8, 331654 +263 (0) 772 525 076 DISCLAIMER Whilst every effort is made to check the content of any article, the directors will not be held responsible for any errors or omissions in such articles. We accept that all articles and photographs sent to us are the sole responsibility of the authors and we do not accept liability for any misrepresentation. Events listed, the dates thereof, and prices are printed using information supplied to us that we are satis昀椀ed are correct at the time of printing. Nzira publication is the exclusive property of Ndeipi (Pvt) Ltd Media Use the QR code to visit our website for more articles. If you want to be a part of the pathway to the next NZiRA issue, please get in touch with us on editor@nzira.co.zw uring this winter, we have been busy, working hard to seek out and share with you secrets of the very best hospitality that Zimbabwe has to offer, from the roar of the Victoria Falls to the dusty plains of Mana Pools and many other places in between. Each destination has its own merits and unique charm. This country abounds in a richness and diversity of wildlife and scenery. We are spoilt for choice and there is always somewhere to visit that will suit both your pocket and your whim. Head out, make the most of the warm winter sunshine and create your own African adventure. There is something tantalising about planning that trip and deciding a destination is just the beginning. Which brings me to share some exciting news. Exciting developments within the industry are afoot. With the just-signed agreement between our national carrier Air Zimbabwe and Mack Air, travel within Zimbabwe will soon become a whole lot easier and more accessible. A “Flame Lily Hoppa” service will offer a daily domestic air service between the tourism hubs of Victoria Falls, Harare, Hwange, Kariba and Chiredzi. Flights between Victoria Falls and Kariba for example, will give holiday planning here a whole new dimension and offer the domestic traveller more options with more places to visit, easily linked by air. Some of the stories we covered in this issue have dealt with travelling with a purpose, be it a fundraising bicycle ride, teaching our urban youth the value of wildlife and indigenous habitat, or exploring resorts with the latest technology to minimise our impact on the environment and surroundings. While the primary reasons for travel are pleasure and exploration, it is inspiring to read about those travelling or working within the industry who are taking it to the next level, involving charity or raising awareness for a particular cause. On a related note we should take a moment to celebrate the people who work within the hospitality and tourism industry of Zimbabwe. It can be argued that they are doing a great job. I would say that it is more than this. They go beyond their brief and make us all instantly feel at home and the big Zimbabwean smiling welcomes we receive as travellers all over the country are genuine. We are a truly hospitable, genuinely happy nation and this is always remarked upon by international travellers who visit our local spots. I am proudly Zimbabwean and hearing about this makes my heart swell. Nzira Cover Photo Guy Upfold InfoNzira nziramagazine Nzira NZ RA Travel Zimbabwe D From the Editor Editor’s Note

5 www.nzira.co.zw CONTENTS NZiRA ISSUE 13 AUG/SEPT 2019 Great Zimbabwe 11 14 44 22 30 37 41 48 52 54 58 62 66 17 Zambezi Elephant Fund Local Talent Machangana Festival Rhino Safari Camp African Adventuring Mana Pools Gliding Adventure Baby Elephant Rescue and Rehabilitation in Africa Fundraising For Pensioners Chef’s Story The 4x4 Club Books Bark of the Urban Baboon Chundu Island Luxury island retreat in Victoria Falls Educating youth on the importance of our wildlife Winter Artfest at Wild Geese Lodge Through the eyes of a child and where to stay A lakeside getaway on the shores of Kariba Safari in Botswana’s Chobe Park Staying in this UNESCO World Heritage Site Riding the airstreams above Kariba Celebrating the Shangaan community’s culture Wild Is Life and the Sheldrick Trust The Old Legs Tour Food in Africa with Callie-Anne Gavazzi When this club helped Cyclone Idai rescue efforts To kick start your adventures Fun and games on his Limpopo cross-border travels 6 Bulawayo 20 An urban destination Riding bikes and exploring in this National Park Matopos 26 Contents

6Aug/Sept 2019 arly morning, coffee in hand standing on the beautiful deck overlooking the Zambezi. Silence broken only by the sound of the hippos in the distance, the bird calls and the lapping water. You feel as though you are in your own peaceful, private African paradise, with an opportunity to reconnect with nature and also experience the Victoria Falls away from the hustle and bustle of the tourist city it has become. Chundu Island lies 21km from the Victoria Falls on the Zambezi river, and is a private island run by the Seolo Africa Group. The name originates from the name of the area and the Chief who lived in the area. Established in November 2017, this luxury secluded Zimbabwean island resort is only accessible by boat, and is a stone’s throw away from the Zambian Boarder. National Parks have, in recent years, started opening up a few of their larger game reserves around the country to allow individual, private enterprises to showcase the best of Zimbabwe’s beautiful 昀氀ora and fauna in their own peculiar formats. This gives the resort an air of exclusivity which is extremely desirable when you’re looking for the experience of an African escape. We have just spent a glorious weekend there. Before a trip, planning and logistics can be a nightmare (especially when going to an island!) but the Seolo Africa staff take care of all that and are in constant communication organising transfers, giving you peace of mind. Our journey starts quite early from Robert Mugabe International Airport to the Victoria Falls Airport. E C h u n d u Island Article Rudo Nhamoinesu & Mike Garden Images Guy Upfold, Cameron Blair & Doug Mostert. Luxury and Solitude On The Banks of the Zambezi River. Chundu Island

7 www.nzira.co.zw Arriving well in time, we have an opportunity to wander around the rain forest and the city, before eating a scrumptious full English breakfast at the Victoria Falls Hotel. Our transfer arrives to collect us at 13:00, and we set off! The trip, by road takes an hour, but time passes by unnoticed as we take in the scenery and a tower of giraffes who seem to have also been celebrating “World Giraffe Day”. Next up was a 5-minute boat transfer to the Island, and at this point excitement builds up even more as you can see Chundu Island in the distance. After being warmly received by the Captain, fondly referred to as Captain Ed and given a brief safety talk we head off on the calm waters of the Zambezi! Upon arrival, we are greeted by the staff, and with refreshments in hand we take in the wondrous setting from the main deck overlooking the white sand beach and the Zambezi. Zimbabwe being a landlocked country, beaches are found in very few areas, but this was our 昀椀rst time seeing such a beautiful sandy private beach. After being informed that temperatures drop in the evenings and early mornings my heart swells at seeing the outdoor 昀椀re pits. I immediately picture sitting around the glowing 昀氀ames, looking over the river. The resort’s 昀氀owing spaces were created and decorated with natural and mostly local materials to re昀氀ect the beauty of the area. Chundu Island

8Aug/Sept 2019 The use of blues and warm lighting gives a soothing and calming effect, putting you instantly at peace, as well as giving a contemporary safari-chic feel. Chundu Island, in its untamed environment is as posh as it gets. It offers more than the usual hotel. With eight luxury “glamping” suites, Chundu Island has made it possible to live comfortably on a remote, scenic spot. As part of the “glamping” spirit, living at a place that no one has ever imagined or experienced, is what makes this kind of vacation unique. The suites offered the best views from our private decks, complete with loungers and day beds that overlook the shimmering river. You can slip on the warm robe you’ll 昀椀nd there, and 昀氀op into your extra king sized bed, enveloped in a draped net (to keep the mozzies at bay). The atmosphere of the suite is calming, with the use of neutral décor in natural tones and blues, and there is a large tub to soak after a long day on safari or, if you prefer, an outdoor shower in the afternoon or in the evening, underneath the starry sky. The whole camp and facilities have been established using the latest methods in environmental sustainability. There is an impressive solar farm on the island that powers the lodge and all of the suites as well as individual solar geysers for each suite minimizing the impact on the environment and the carbon footprint. The water level is 3m down on last year so they have had to build up the surrounding banks with hundreds of bio-technology cement pocket sized bags 昀椀lled with beach sand. This material has, apparently, been designed so that the sand will eventually soften the material blending it into the environment allowing grass to grow through its seams with the roots halting the progress of any erosion. The sunset cruise with other guests is always a favourite with knowledgeable guides driving you along the banks of the river lined with numerous Ilala Palms reaching high into the setting sun. It is there that one has those neverto-be-repeated, long interesting chats with people that were once complete strangers thrown into your space by the in昀椀nite Universe. These include two young guys who have come up from Durban complete with Drone, Go Pros and the latest photographic equipment to create high quality marketing material for the owners. We’re provided with an excellent dinner to savour on the large dining platform overlooking theZambezi with the gush of nearby rapids 昀椀lling the evening air with the crisp clear sounds of Africa. On the second day we treat ourselves to a late lie-in before a hot shower and a scrumptious breakfast. Chundu Island offers guests two activities per day which are included in the rate; these include sundowner cruises, canoeing the zambezi, fun 昀椀shing, guided Safari Walks through the Zambezi National Park, island walks and Safari Game Drives. There is also a selection of children’s activities that are sure to keep the little ones very busy and active at Chundu Island. Our activity for the day is canoeing down the mighty Zambezi. We’re escorted in a 昀椀shing boat some 5km up river to waiting in昀氀atable canoes along with two very knowledgeable guides. Then, after a debrief on safety issues we slowly meander downstream, ever vigilant for those scary looking Nile Crocodiles that seem to spend an inordinate amount of time basking in the sun on sandbanks. The whole thing about staying in an exclusive place like Chundu Island is to take time out from the endless rush of the city; to just relax and let the sheer tranquillity of nature slow you down and give you time for re昀氀ection. You can choose whether you want to partake in long lunches with power afternoon sleeps or to sit in a 昀椀shing boat all day with a box full of cold beers watching Tiger Fish chasing after your 昀椀shing lures. Chundu Island is the ideal setting to relax and enjoy the serenity of the picturesque Zambezi National Park. The peace experienced in these vast open spaces is second to none. “The essence of any top-drawer tourist establishment is a 5-star chef and kitchen sta昀昀. This was no exception” Chundu IslandNZ RA

9 www.nzira.co.zw The Creation of a Beauty The beginnings of Chundu Island Lodge W hen the Seolo Africa team 昀椀rst visited the original Chundu Island camp near Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe with a view to developing an island paradise, we knew immediately that this was something we had to do. It was utterly enchanting. Intense sunsets, a stunning seasonal white beach, magni昀椀cent trees and bird life. Our imaginations ran wild, conjuring up perfection worthy of this wild island beauty. Was it a fairytale? No. The process was complicated: getting what and when we wanted it involved an enormous amount of paperwork, compromise, cost and effort. Changes in economic policy made budgets a moving target and caused us to have to dig deep, both in terms of 昀椀nances and creativity. By the time the lodge opened, we were exhausted, but immensely proud. It was stunning, carefully thought out and physically excellent. However there had been little or no time to focus on polishing up staff and systems. So effectively, Cinderella had her gorgeous ball gown, her beauty was incomparable, but she had yet to go through elocution lessons and deportment. Over the last year we’ve put in a lot of hard work on team building and training; and now (while it was not exactly a magic wand - more like Henry Higgins from “My Fair Lady” than the fairy godmother!) our exquisite island lodge has completed her transformation, and we’re not the only ones to say so. She is captivating visitors from far and wide. Our guests have shared their enthusiasm and their passion online, not only for the food and the people, and we thank them for encouraging us in our African dream. The intrigue, allure and excitement of a fairytale “Seychelles meets Zambezi” island with both wildlife and warmer activities has universal and holistic appeal. We are inspired to continue to make dreams come true for our guests for many years to come. Chundu Island NZ RA Article Seolo Africa Powering the Lodge: Solar panels provide clean renewable energy.

www.nzira.co.zw 11 HOMEGROWN & HEARTFELT On a crisp morning in May, a dozen excited, young Zimbabweans gathered in Harare to set o昀昀 on a weekend road trip to Mana Pools National Park. For many, it was the 昀椀rst time they’d ever visited the Valley… How young Zimbabweans are expanding the country’s conservation footprint. Zambezi Elephant Fund’s (ZEF) objective to explore further ways in which Zimbabwean millennials could contribute to the conservation and protection of our country’s wildlife, wilderness and surrounding communities got off to a great start with this wonderful group of individuals. It was ZEF’s role to incubate the idea and allow the natural progression of lively discussion, thoughts and networking on this positive platform to follow. Unhindered by preconceived ideas, equally unrestricted by the cynicism sometimes found amongst the more experienced conservationists, and each with diverse skills, interests and backgrounds, it was evident that something special was about to happen. “An eye-opening, heart-expanding, uplifting weekend” “You were absolutely right in bringing us all to Mana – there is no way that we would have had such robust and interesting dialogue had we been sat around a table in Harare eating limp sandwiches. I can’t imagine having met many of the people there and I am very glad that I did. Mana has worked its magic again! Moving forward, I truly hope that the enthusiasm and goodwill is harnessed into something concrete, especially something that holds a more positive future for (wildlife), ZimParks and the local communities.” Antonia Palmer Mundawarara Article and Images Zimbabwe Elephant Fund Zimbabwe Elephant Fund

12 Aug/Sept 2019 Highlights included game drives with Shingi from Mwinilunga Safaris, walks with John Stevens from camp, exciting sightings of painted wolves and lion, and a visit to Marongora Parks of昀椀ce and Akashinga’s all-female poaching unit. Mr Joseph Dube (Senior Area Manager), Ian Stevenson of Conservation Lower Zambezi and Charlotte Robotham, a social media in昀氀uencer manager on safari with her family from Australia graced the group with their presence. There was also a memorable meeting with Simba Kandiero, who is ZEF implementing partner Zambezi Society’s anti-poaching driver and coxswain, and proud recent recipient of his learner-guide’s license. The trip saw hearts racing thanks to a couple of snakes in camp - thank you Tristan for your calm, knowledgeable investigation and safe removal. Fireside discussions, dinner debates and many profound insights were gained. Suleiman Makore (Doc Suli), medical doctor and crazy-about-wildlife “animal guy” sums up the Zambezi Valley in three words that we couldn’t say better… Paradise. On. Earth. It is clear that Zambezi Elephant Fund’s most fervent wish is that those who are set to “inherit the earth” are also those who will have one of the most constructive and catalytic impacts across Zimbabwe’s conservation landscapes. This short stay in Mana Pools brought about an understanding of the enormous and varied issues faced by the custodians of these areas. It allowed the young participants (aged from 15 to almost 40!) to get to know each other, to gain direct experience of a wilderness area, and to leave with the embers of a small idea that could possibly lead to a global one – how they might help ZimParks and conservation support organisations in unexpected ways with their own unique voices and with the enviable energy of youth. ZEF does not claim to take ownership of the views of that memorable weekend’s participants, but we are thrilled to share some of the insights. Our hope is that it will spark the desire in milennials across the country to do what they can to support and protect Zimbabwe’s incredible natural heritage. If the funding can be secured, Zambezi Elephant Fund will be delighted to facilitate further sessions with other interested individuals. We consider ourselves privileged to have been in the midst of such enthusiasm, creativity and diversity. NZ RA

14Aug/Sept 2019 Local Talent Artfest) The Artfest, held at Wild Geese Lodge, just outside Harare, has grown into a Zimbabwean annual outing, a fun, relaxed day out in the winter sunshine. This festival, now in its third year, is becoming a 昀椀xture for both young and old Zimbabweans. Music from local band Marinade consisted of covers of some golden oldies and added to the general ambience combined with the melodies of I Am King. Food stalls catered for a large range of tastes and visitors were encouraged to stay and enjoy themselves, eating and drinking on the lawns and dappled shade of this beautiful setting. The lodge provided a wonderful backdrop to a vibrant, colourful display from over 120 local artists, photographers, craftsmen and sculptors. Always held in June, it is primarily an outdoors art exhibition, and works are available for sale. As well as a fun day out, this is a chance for the serious buyer to snap up a unique piece of work. Artist, Barry Lungu, depicting camaraderie and the African way of life in a series of charcoal on canvas paintings. Local talent Marinade entertaining the eager crowds on the lush lawns of Wild Geese in the early hours of the days. ArtfestImages Tamuka Nyoni

15 www.nzira.co.zw The pencil renderings by artist, Talent, appear to be almost photographic as he showcases several illustrations In Gareth Hook’s representation he manages to capture the intricate details of an elephant delicately wrapping its trunk around its tusk Gareth Hook produces the almost life like depiction of a leopard perched in a tree using oil on canvas Artfest

What to expect A modern clean and well appointed house with large windows and sliding/stacking beach front doors. All 5 bedrooms have air conditioning, en-suite bathrooms,hair dryers and fitted wardrobes. The 6th is a bunk room with 3 bunks,also air conditioned & attached is a crib with changing table,Mosquito net attachment for the crib,high chair feeding table & moveable stairs barrier. The main bedroom's bathroom has a bath & large shower. The kitchen is well equipped with two Minus 40 fridges, 2 additional stand by fridges (1 has icemaker),stand alone ice maker,chest freezers,dishwasher, washing machine and tumble dryer. There is a gas stove / oven. The property comes with a large braai & Weber BBQ. From the veranda you can see the start of the bazaruto archipelago with Paradise Island and Bazaruto Island in view. During the right season you are also likely to see whales, dolphins and turtles when out at sea. The property overlooks the Indian Ocean with amazing sun rise views. No internet/wifi provided; however there is a vodacom aerial near the house which provides good cellular and data signal. Guest access The property can be accessed by dirt road behind the dunes and it is a short 8 minute drive from the centre of Inhassoro. The road from Inhassoro is unpaved 4x4 vehicle recommended GPS co-ordinates Latitude -21,5813 Longditude 35,2460 Guest services There is a management team available that service the house. They can be called when needed. Management can ,sometimes, arrange extra services, such as home help, cleaners, maids etc at an additional cost.Its recommended you inform them if required early as it's not always available. Please ensure you get a quote for these services. Sue Dunlap - suedunlap92@yahoo.com +25 88 4300 5592 Debbie - libelinha1250@gmail.com +25 88 4417 8388 Other things to note You can hire boats from local companies in Inhassoro which are ideal for day trips to Paradise Island and the Archipelago. This is perfect for deep sea fishing, snorkeling or scuba diving if you have the equipment. We recommend MARLIN FISHING CHARTERS (Charles Lee - +25 88 4706 6784) who have competitive rates. Weblink: https://abnb.me/FpCBgse3NP What to expect Guest access Guest services Sue Dunlap Debbie Other things to note Charles Lee https://abnb.me/FpCBgse3NP Mango de Tzondzo What to expect Guest access Guest services Sue Dunlap Debbie Other things to note Charles Lee https://abnb.me/FpCBgse3NP Mango de Tzondzo Email :- bookings@mangodetzondzo.com Tel :- +27 790 390 824 MOZAMBIQUE Borrowdale Branch: Open daily including public holidays 7:30am to midnight. 1 Borrowdale Lane | Borrowdale | Harare | Zimbabwe Tel: +263 4 882 228/ 886 922-3 | +263 783 910 004 Airport Branch: Open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 5:30pm Saturday & Public holidays 8:30am -12:30pm. Sunday closed. Tel: +263 4 575 630/ 575 640 | 08677107409 info@whitecross.co.zw | facebook.com/whitecrosspharmacyzw

www.nzira.co.zw 17 Great Zimbabwe Hotel lies within the grounds of the Great Zimbabwe National Museums and Monuments, a Unesco World Heritage Site in Masvingo, Zimbabwe. The Great Zimbabwe Monuments are Africa’s second largest stone structure after the Egyptian pyramids of Giza and the most splendid ancient monuments in Sub Saharan Africa. These Impressive monuments are 900 years old and from these monuments is where the country derives its name – Zimbabwe – a shortened version of Dzimba Dzemabwe. The interest in Zimbabwe as a holiday destination is on the increase, so is the demand for luxury. A great deal of effort has been put into making Great Zimbabwe Hotel the ultimate one stop entertainment and leisure hotel in Masvingo. The Great Zimbabwe Hotel is a walking distance at only 800 metres away from this Historic man made marvel in a relatively remote place, which adds to its mystery and magic. The Hotel is 30 km from Masvingo Airport and only 35km from Lake Mtirikwi, which is an excellent place for boating, 昀椀shing and general relaxation. Great Zimbabwe Hotel Local Getaway to Masvingo

18Aug/Sept 2019 There are a wide variety of activities to partake at Great Zimbabwe Hotel and its surrounding areas. Namely, The Chesvingo Rock Art, located on the shores of Lake Mutirikwi. The paintings include kudu, rhino and antelopes and were produced by mixing animal’s fats blood and oak. The Chesvingo Tunnel is believed to connect Great Zimbabwe underground burial place for kings and these Tunnels were used as a rain making shrine. Other places of interest include, Andrew Lowe Chapel, Murinye Balancing Rock Boulders, The Chamavara Rock Art, Tokwe Mukosi, Chapel of St Francis Of Assisi, Kyle Recreational Park and The War Memorial which houses the German artillery used in the World War 2 as well as the names of those that gave their lives in World War 1 in 1914 and World War 2. What better place to be than Great Zimbabwe Hotel, the ultimate Holiday breakaway resort. Great Zimbabwe Hotel is a 47 roomed boutique Hotel. One signi昀椀cant feature of all the rooms at Great Zimbabwe Hotel is their spacious and roomy layout all decorated with conservative furniture that gives them a modest and homely feel. There are a range of different room setups from single rooms designed for one person, double rooms with either twin beds or a double bed. The standard rooms overlook a lush garden courtyard with bright country 昀氀owerbeds, shrubs and creepers. These rooms are conveniently laid out in a half moon shape encasing the courtyard, giving the hotel the feel of an intimate family unit similar to the layout of the nearby Great Zimbabwe Monuments. The deluxe suite, family suite and standard suites are located in separate nearby satellite buildings giving them an added sense of privacy. From selected rooms in the hotel guests have views of the grandeur age-old Great Zimbabwe Monuments. Great Zimbabwe Hotel offers a small but comfortable array of conferencing and banqueting facilities with 昀氀exible seating plans. Hotel staff boasting of years of experience are well trained and dedicated to ensuring that all events are trouble free and seamlessly put together. A modern 250 seater conference facility is also under construction at Great Zimbabwe hotel. The facility will have breakaway rooms, inside ablution facilities, a kitchen and dining area. It will be equipped with modern conferencing facilities that include modern public address system, LED projectors and drop in screens. The completion of the facility is scheduled for August 2019. The Hotel is expanding with construction of a campsite currently on-going. The Campsite is a new feature at the Hotel which will accommodate 40 guests, and it is ideal for both locals and foreigners. The campsite will have new ablution facilities, slabs for tents and cooking areas. The construction of the Camp is in progress and will also be complete by August 2019. To titillate and delight all the guests palate, the hotel has the Great Enclosure restaurant which offers a la carte and buffet menus in a bid to meet the tastes of our varied clientele and has a maximum capacity of 150 pax. The dress code is casual for all meals and special seating plans are easily accommodated, making the hotel a 昀氀exible venue with the ability to cater for large groups or for an intimate couple’s dinner. Our bar and restaurant are staffed by local residents who are distinguished as being some of the most courteous and warm people in the country, and knowledgeable about the destination with interesting tales of the area to share. Great Zimbabwe Hotel NZ RA

19 www.nzira.co.zw By Kids t was on a hot sunny afternoon when we started touring Great Zimbabwe. Before embarking on the tour, we were given a guide who took the time to explain the route we were going to use, what was acceptable during the tour and the areas of the ruins we would see. He told us that the tour was divided into four stops; the Hill Complex, the Valley Complex, the Great Enclosure and the museum. We started the tour with a brief visit to the museum. This is where we saw informative displays of the ruins. The museum also holds numerous soapstone bird sculptures that once stood proudly on guard atop the walls. Artifacts also found in the museum include pottery. When we left the museum the tour of the ruins began. The 昀椀rst part we visited was the Great Enclosure. The Great Enclosure was the royal compound. It was occupied from the thirteenth to the 昀椀fteenth century. It is the largest ancient structure in sub-Saharan Africa. Its outer wall is 250m in circumference with a maximum height of 11m. An inner wall runs along part of the outer wall forming a narrow parallel passage and it is 55m long. It was built out of granite blocks, laid in regular courses, and contains a series of dagga-hut living quarters. The Great Enclosure was home to the king’s many wives. Stacked stone walls contained natural boulders at the summit of the King’s Mountain. These walls created chambers and a courtyard which restricted access to the king and his attendants. After visiting the Great Enclosure, we toured the Hill Complex. It was a long and tiresome journey climbing up the steps but eventually we reached the complex. The Hill Complex was used for rituals. It is believed to have been the spiritual and religious center of the city. It sits on a steep-sided hill that raises 80m above the ground and extends for about 145m. It is the oldest part of the site. We rounded up our tour at the Valley complex. This complex is divided into Upper and Lower Valley Ruins which had different periods of occupation. The Valley Complex was mainly built for the citizens. The ordinary citizens, rather than the elite, lived in this area of Great Zimbabwe. These ruins consist of the ruins number One to Three, Ridge Ruins, Render Ruins, Philip Ruins, Maund Ruins, East ruins, and Posselt Ruins. I learned that Great Zimbabwe was built by the Shona people using dry walling. Great Zimbabwe served as a royal palace for the monarch and was a symbol of political power. The Shona King lived atop the mountain. The Great Zimbabwe served as the capital of the Shona Kingdom from about 1250A.D until about 1500A.D. At its peak, it was home to 25000 people. Access to the King’s Mountain was through narrow passageways that ascended steeply on one side of the mountain. There were many check points where guards could drop stones on the heads of people considers as threats. A stacked-stone wall surrounded the King’s Palace at the top of the King’s Mountain. A tiny opening at the base of the wall forced all who entered to bow as a sign of respect for the king. The ruins are the largest collection of ruins in Africa, south of the Sahara. It is one of the greatest national monuments in Zimbabwe. What really impresses me is how the Shona people built Great Zimbabwe using stones without any mortar. The tour took a whole day and it was tiresome but interesting. Great Zimbabwe is a great piece of art that needs to be preserved for future generations. Great Zimbabwe served as a royal palace for the monarch and was a symbol of political power. I We at Nzira Travel Zimbabwe encourage youngsters to write stories about their Zimbabwean travel experiences. This story, written by 12-year-old Mufaro Nyamoa, a primary school student from Ruwa, chronicles her trip to this iconic cultural heritage site. Should you wish to share your child’s travel story, please send it in to editor@nzira.co.zw The Royal House of Stone NZ RA

20 Aug/Sept 2019 ick up your bag, book a ticket and just go. Go because you need a break. Go because you can’t plan anything to perfection. Go because peace of mind is becoming rarer as the days go by. This was the mind-set as I woke up, what felt like, hours before my usual blaring alarm on the dark Sunday morning to make it in time for check-in with Air Zimbabwe. Stepping out of the plane at the Joshua Nkomo Airport in Bulawayo there was a newfound stillness in the air you can’t experience in Harare. The calm was widespread as we drove through quiet, empty streets of the city of Kings and Queens – it was refreshing to say the least. The 昀椀rst thing on our minds, breakfast, was long overdue as we arrived at the Food Lover’s Café. Sitting out on the deck with streaks of sun shining through, a mouth-watering breakfast before us and the gentle breeze was the type of soothing Sunday morning you strive for. With a lazy stroll through the Zonkizizwe Shopping Centre stopping to occasionally to browse through the various stores, we bought a few groceries for our night in Zimparks’ newly renovated self-catering chalets. Well on our way, and with a few wrong turns, 42km later we pulled through the archway of the Matobo National Park. With 21km left to go to our lodging, the rolling hills beckoned and the occasional frightened animal darted across our sights. Heavy iron gates standing in stark contrast to the sandy terrain and natural surrounding had us making an unexpected stop. P Urban Meanderings - Bulawayo Article Rufaro Kaviya Images Tamuka Nyoni Zonkizizwe Shopping Centre, Hillside, Bulawayo Joshua Mqabuko Nkomo Statue Ninth Ave, Bulawayo

www.nzira.co.zw 21 We soon realised we had stumbled across the Memorable Order of Tin Hats – M.O.T.H Memorial Shrine. With light footsteps, we entered and quietly observed our surroundings, taking in the list of names of those honoured at the shrine and the tin hat laid at the site. These men are part of the M.O.T.H, the association founded on the thoughts of Charles Evenden for the formation of an association of front line soldiers to perpetuate the comradeship gained from front line service; an ex-serviceman’s organisation founded on May 7th 1927. After several re昀氀ective moments went on our way. Arriving at our home, Maleme lodges, for the night shortly before sunset, we brie昀氀y unloaded and found a ranger ready at the mark to take us on trek to the Maleme Dam. As we carefully scaled rocks and made our way through the thick brush, we emerged on the banks of the dam through a seemingly hidden entrance timed perfectly as the setting rays of light hit the water. The water level much lower than in previous seasons, the ranger patiently explained the impacts and changes of the dam and the surrounding area is undergoing due to the prevailing drought and climate change. In spite of this, the view was striking in the light of the 昀氀eeting day. On return to our pristine chalet, we took a moment to unpack, gathered outside in the cooling air, with drinks in hand, around the warm 昀椀re and laughed the night away braaiing. An early start saw us hiking up the Nswatugi Hill to explore the Cave. Nswatugi, derived from the Karanga word ‘svetuka’ meaning ‘place of jumping’, according to local legends is where Mlimo, God, leapt from his home at Njelele Hill to the nearby Pomongwe Hill and 昀椀rst landed leaving his footprint in the granite. The cave itself a small wonder with its signi昀椀cance to locals as well as depicting varying rock paintings across its walls. Going across to the other side of the park we paused to take in the balancing rocks aptly named Mother and Child before proceeding in our pursuit for white rhinos. We were unlucky in this regard but a satis昀椀ed morning nevertheless. Once back in the city, Haefelis Bakery catered to our mixed bag of orders with brilliant service from Busi and the busy atmosphere of a Monday afternoon. All made to perfection, the team was very accommodating and incredibly sociable making us feel right at home. Brie昀氀y exploring the town thereafter and short detour led us to the heart of the CBD, to the late vice-president Joshua Mqubuko Nkomo’s statue erected at the intersection of Main Street and Eighth Street. Placed to overlook the city, the statue is seen as a symbol of hope for many. Finally closing the day of adventure, we headed to the N1 hotel to freshen up and relax before we set out for dinner at Zarah Lounge. As they say, “Good Food, Good Drinks and Great Company.” and they certainly didn’t disappoint. We opted for the outdoor seating as we kicked back for the night. With the DJ at his booth 昀椀lling the air with rhythmic beats and setting the atmosphere we were served our appetising meal and spent the time to fully relax before our long weekend drifted away. Another early morning in the winter darkness awaited us as we made our way to the airport for our 昀氀ight home. The exemplary service on-board and comfort of Air Zimbabwe enroute to Harare were enough to make up for the early morning start to Harare. Bulawayo is an experience not too far from home but provides the much needed peace from the fast pace of the Sunshine City. There’s a lot left to explore and I can con昀椀dently say I won’t be waiting another 16 years before my next visit! When you go home – tell them of us, and say “For your tomorrow, we gave our today” Bulawayo NZ RA Zimparks’ Maleme Lodges, Matopos National Park

22Aug/Sept 2019

23 www.nzira.co.zw As we approached land on the other side, the shoreline teeming with wildlife juxtaposed with the forest of dead Mopane trees tickled something in my brain. This was the memory of Kariba I had held on since my last visit twenty years ago. The thatched roofs peeked through the trees and disappeared from sight as we went into the harbour. Tatenda, another information-昀椀lled guide, greeted us there. Information, hospitality and high energy were clearly part of the team spirit. The drive to the camp felt like a game drive due to the abundance of wildlife. Tatenda gladly narrated the story of the bush around us. He spotted the animals and gave some accompanying facts about them. The birds called from far away, while others quietly went about their day in the nearby trees. All of them, by sight or sound, Tatenda named easily. The drive had set the pace for the next few days. Jenny and Karl, the power couple running Rhino Safari Camp, met us upon arrival. More neatly dressed staff members greeted us warmly. efore we arrived, I was sure of a few things. I knew there would be an unfamiliar level of openness with the thatched structure we’d call our rooms. I was aware that the placement of the camp invaded an area that the animals called home. Quite obviously, this mentioned invasion carried some risks. Lastly, I knew that Jenny, one of the proprietors of the safari camp, was extremely welcoming. We had been in communication since the planning stages of the trip and even as we made our way to Kariba, the updates I shared with Jenny were met with reassurance that we were making good time. We arrived at Marineland Harbour and Pearson, the captain, arrived with the boat a while later. Smartly dressed in his Rhino Safari Camp attire, he welcomed us on board. Once loaded up and us safely inside, he gave us a brief safety chat. The hour long boat ride was relaxing, rocking us into a mesmerised state. Eyes began to close only to be forced open once in a while to be told a fascinating fact about the land in the distance. B Rustic Remoteness at Rhino Safari Camp Article Prim Muzah Images Tamuka Nyoni & Rhino Safari Camp

24 Aug/Sept 2019 A welcome beverage and a cool refreshing towel were offered to us. It was only then I remembered that the heat had been bothering me. While most of the country was settling into winter, Kariba was still sweltering. Once we had caught our breath, Karl dove into the expected dangers while Jenny chimed in as a buffer of sorts. The beauty and danger of the camp lay mostly on our behaviour when encountering the animals. As it is nestled in their home, the animals tend to wander through the camp. At tense points, Jenny would provide a comforting reminder that it wasn’t our place to pose as a threat to the animals or disrupt their way of life. We were there to observe, learn and enjoy with the animals. Our main responsibility, often forgotten, is to conserve the wildlife around us. The way they handled the introduction demonstrated how well the husband and wife team worked together and con昀椀dence in their dynamic only strengthened throughout the stay. As it turns out, we were right on time for afternoon tea and cake. They had saved some lunch for us. The meal was delicious and each bite loosened the nervous knots I had acquired during the safety talk. The other guests joined us at the table. We met Peter, whose love for safari and invaluable knowledge helped with the founding and daily running of the camp. Sally and Dick, long standing guests of the camp, were there too. Their experienced presence against our newbie curiosity balanced the camp energy well. After our meal, the other guests left on a sunset game drive while Jenny escorted me to my room. The rooms were reminiscent of the Tonga dwellings because of the stilts they stood on, while the use of the straw roofs and reed walls blended well into the surrounding bush. Once I was inside the room, the tangles in my stomach fell loose. The breeze that Karl kept mentioning caressed my face. The roof extended quite low and the walls were short creating the perfect open view from every part of the room. Karl’s mother and Peter had designed and created a naturally air conditioned home for their guests. Once I had acclimatised myself with the room I returned to the Boma, the main area where we congregated for food, drinks and, most importantly, engaging conversations overlooking the shoreline that held an ever changing display of colours and wildlife. Everyone else had already taken off for their game drive but Tatenda was waiting for us. The drive along the shoreline reintroduced us to the impala population that seemed to grow at every turn. Elephants were everywhere. A mongoose darted for cover at the roaring of the car. The Fish Eagle and Marabou Storks perched on the dead Mopane trees while the other smaller birds fed on the elephant dung on the ground. The setting sun provided a cooler atmosphere for the hippopotamus to come out. The back drop of the sunset created the ultimate photo perfect opportunities. “The thatched roofs peeked through the trees and disappeared from sight as we went into the harbour.” Rhino Safari Camp Above Juvenile male lion resting in the mid-day shade Above Impala grazing on the shoreline.

www.nzira.co.zw 25 As the darkness settled around us, the elephants began their retreat into the bush. This was the typical serene setting for the sunset game drive. The days ended with drinks and lively chats around the 昀椀re. The drums signaled that the food was ready. A beautifully decorated table held our three course dinner and after the meal we returned to the 昀椀re to discuss the activities for the next day. After a good night’s sleep with the lullaby of waves gently slapping the shore and animals calls, the next day began. Fishing, walking safaris or game drives were the activities to try. Fishing quickly became addictive despite the cold temperatures making the 昀椀sh scarce. The calm of the water with tales from Funnyboy, the helmsman and resident 昀椀sherman extraordinaire, made the hours 昀氀y by fast. The walking safari provided a heart-pumping exercise 昀椀lled with up-close lessons that involved dung examinations, tree trunk touching and tracking of animals using their footprints. Possibly the best part of the walks were Peter’s stories which were educational and entertaining. Meeting deadly silent elephants on foot held a different form of exhilaration one cannot experience while sitting in the vehicle. The afternoons were hot so the prescheduled siestas in between activities were very much welcomed. The collective retreat to the rooms was done excitedly as it was a guaranteed haven with cool air and possible upclose sightings of animals feeding on the trees next to the rooms. I had the pleasure of watching an elephant at its eye level. It fed on the leaves and communicated with the nearby elephants that I could see on the shoreline. All from the comfort of my bed! Once it was gone, the siesta ended with a refreshing nap, as all the others did. As we were there three nights, it was a pleasure having time to try all the activities more than once. The day of departure was almost sorrowful. We were all packed in the Landrover when the wind picked up and the water became too rough. This led to a search of the lions we had heard earlier that morning. The best part for me was watching the experts, Peter and Tatenda, track the lions. Using their skills of animal tracking and their brilliant senses of hearing and seeing, we found four males enjoying a nap after their impala feast. With coaching from Peter, we managed to get close to the lions. Some vultures, including the Whiteheaded Vulture, swarmed down to help themselves to the remains of the lions’ kill. The experience ended with this beautiful safari encounter. The whole journey home was 昀椀lled with talk of the trip. Each story we’d heard about the camp and the wildlife around it was memorable. It was clear that the guests’ experiences were at the heart of this camp and while I had an undeniably phenomenal time, I couldn’t help but hope that my presence at the camp would be one for the records for everyone I’d met there as well. Karl Wright Phone number: +263-772-205-000 Email: rhinosafaricamp@mail.com Website: www.rhinosafaricamp.com NZ RA

26Aug/Sept 2019

27 www.nzira.co.zw The route passes through this region from west to east, south to north, and lowest to highest points, encompassing private farmlands, and rural areas. Exclusive permission to ride through the spectacular Matopos Game and National Park is obtained from the Zimbabwe National Parks and Wildlife Management Authority. This provides a remarkable opportunity to appreciate this ancient and varied landscape consisting of balancing rocks, rippling streams, sandy riverbeds and granite dwalas interspersed with wooded valleys and grasslands where the inherent danger of wildlife, including the 2 tonne white rhino, exist and where isolation and nature of the terrain can be a challenge for the less experienced mountain biker. Back on to the narrow dirt trail and a bike screeches to a grinding halt. Behind it, another swerves dangerously, almost unbalancing both riders. Nothing much stops a mountain biker dead in his tracks on an open gravel road so there has to be a worthy explanation. A smooth impression on the sand is the only evidence of the invisible obstacle - a stark reminder that this is no ordinary bike event. With barely any cell-phone signal, the thought of being in the domain of one of the world’s most feared and deadliest snakes, the black mamba, is in itself daunting but the show must go on and the adrenaline pumped cyclists return to the task of completing their ride with a bit more understanding and respect for this wild environment. here is a certain sensation when free-wheeling at high speed down a steep dwala - a massive lichen-laden, granite whaleback mountain, with the wind whistling in your ears and the narrow footpath, barely discernible in front of you, despite having been hewn into the rock by ten thousand feet and more. That feeling of freedom, of being in one’s own element and surrounded by nature’s elements whilst being entirely in control of the two spindly wheels beneath you, is more than exhilarating; it is intoxicating and addictive but this is just a small part of what brings the rider back to this event year after year. Lying south of Bulawayo, in the southwest of Zimbabwe, the Matopos area provides the venue for one of the most captivating, scenically rich adventure rides in Africa. It is a privilege to be able to ride a mountain bike through the mystifying Matobo Hills in Zimbabwe’s very own 2.6 billion-year old landscape, enriched with the greatest concentration of rock art found anywhere in the world. Adding to the accolades, it is Zimbabwe’s largest World Heritage Site, in excess of 3,100 km² and the country’s only UNESCO Cultural Landscape Site. T Image: Above Cyclists assemble at the start of the timed event leading out of Maleme Rest Camp Image: Right A typical rural homestead along the trail in The Matobo Hills Article and Images Debbie Swales “A remarkable opportunity to appreciate this ancient and varied landscape.” Matobo Hills

28 Aug/Sept 2019 There are no ‘bells and whistles’ on this event. The track is not manicured or cleared and it is imperative to know how to operate and follow the trail on a GPS as there are no man-made route markers. Bail out points don’t exist, except when at a designated water point and even then, in a vehicle, it is a long haul back to camp. March 2019, the 10th anniversary of The Matopos World Heritage MTB Challenge, (more simply known as the Matopos Heritage Challenge) brought together 70 riders from several countries riding in teams of two or three and generously supported by a number of sponsors. Organized by The Matopos Heritage Ride committee (on behalf of the Matobo Conservation Society), this event has much more to offer than just a race or the rich heritage. It is a route prepared over many months of trial and error that seeks to replace bush roads with exceptional single track. The committee, after much research and effort, unveil a few of the notable sites by insisting on compulsory stops along the route at designated locations. A booklet is painstakingly compiled and together with various gifts including ride shirts, T-shirts, chain lube, buffs, shoe bags and other items, is handed out to each entrant upon arrival. Detailed information is listed in the booklet, including historical facts and points of interest along the way, in the hope that some of these features and mileage pegs are remembered in order to be viewed en-route. A brie昀椀ng is held each evening to discuss the following day’s interesting snippets, including ringing rocks, balancing rocks, caves, rock art and rare orbicular granite sites as well as some of the most sacred traditional religious sites in Southern Africa, such as Njelele hill, so revered that nobody is even allowed to point a 昀椀nger at it. The ‘racing snakes’ don’t pay too much attention but those who ride for the adventure of exploring and learning remain in awe of the knowledge provided. Each of the three days is approximately 70km long with an early start around 6.30am. Breakfast begins at 5am, hurriedly forced down in order to supply enough energy for the 昀椀rst couple of hours. Two well-stocked water points are provided along the way each day but cyclists must carry their own water, energy bars, snacks, 昀椀rst aid kits and basic bike spares as days can be longer than planned due to unexpected mechanical or human mishaps! The 昀椀rst two nights are spent in the comfortable National Parks accommodation at Maleme Rest Camp in the west, which comprises brick and thatch chalets. The route on the second day leads to Camp Dwala in the east where spacious tents are erected for both competitors and back-up teams. The 昀椀nal evening is held atop the magni昀椀cent orange and green lichenpeppered dwala behind the camp, where the awards and acknowledgements are presented against the shimmering backdrop of Africa’s golden setting sun. This is a ride where modern meets the mystical enigmatic Matopos Hills and is fast becoming known as one of the premier single track events held in Africa, providing fun, challenging conditions, which are not to be undertaken lightly, but meets the needs of both advanced and social riders in the most historically intriguing and breathtakingly rugged environments nature can bestow. As they say in the game: see you on the trail! Contact Information listed below:- Matobo Hills World Heritage MTB Challenge: Secretary: matoboheritageride@gmail.com FB: Matopos Heritage MTB Challenge http://www.matobo.org/heritage/heritageride.html Camp Dwala Email: dwala.safaris@gmail.com Facebook: Camp Dwala National Parks & Maleme Rest Camp https://zimparks.org The Matobo Conservation Society an NGO committed to the conservation, appreciation and sustainable use of the natural and cultural resources within the Matobo. 昀戀@matobo.org http://www.Matobo.org National Museums and Monuments of Zimbabwe http://www.nmmz.co.zw NZ RA Matobo Hills

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30Aug/Sept 2019 can name a dozen reasons why I love Africa. The abundance of natural spaces is one of them. The concentration of animals, another. Fuse the two and voila, African safari! On my most recent trip to Zimbabwe, Victoria Falls was on the itinerary; which naturally meant a safari would be on the to-do list. Having already done Hwange National Park in the past, I decided to go on a full day safari trip across the border, in Chobe National Park, Botswana. On the morning of our safari trip, after an early breakfast, the tour bus picked us up for about an hour’s drive to the Zimbabwe – Botswana border; stopping whenever someone spotted animals along the way. At the border, we cleared immigration within minutes. Being Zimbabwean, I did not need a visa. Everyone else was from abroad so they had the KAZA visa, which gives tourists multiple entry access to Zimbabwe, Botswana, and Zambia. Our driver handed us over to another, who drove us into Botswana. A pretty swift transfer. We drove through Kasane and arrived at the beautiful Chobe Marina Lodge where a pleasant Tswana hostess briefed us on the proceedings of the day. The safari would commence with a cruise on Chobe river, which 昀氀ows between mainland Botswana, and Sududu island. Chobe river is connected to the Zambezi river, and separates Botswana from Namibia, just as the Zambezi separates Zimbabwe from Zambia. There were many animals, reptiles and birds along the riverbank to the left, and on the island to our right. Hippos, elephants, water buffalo, kudu, waterbuck, giraffes, and crocodiles. There were baboons too, “our clever cousins”, as the captain joked. By now I was somewhat accustomed to mingling with baboons. We had encountered a troop of them during our tour of the Falls, on the Zimbabwe side. At a café next to the gate of the Falls, we had witnessed one baboon naughtily snatch a slice of cake off another tourist’s plate. She was given another, with compliments from the chef, which I hope she managed to have all to herself. Being amongst the animals, seeing them so close and watching them interact with each other, untamed, was exhilarating. I cannot think of a better way to appreciate the natural state of creation. A hippo feeding on a patch of grass in the water, a deep scar visible on its face, probably from a 昀椀ght with the hippo sitting next to it. As it dug away at the grass, it exposed worms, a meal for the small bird feeding next to it. A pure and admirable type of co-existence. The Water Buffalos minded their own business, grazing on the island; taking no notice of our tourist 昀椀lled boat, even as we stopped to take pictures of them, whispering comments as we did so. None lifted its head. Not too far away, a long-necked bird stared into the distance as it stood next to a croc basking in winter’s sun along the bank. Plenty of bird species. All in all, I must have seen 50 species of birds. Enough to make my holidaying head spin with information overload. I chose to concentrate on just watching rather than trying to remember all the details carefully volunteered by our knowledgeable captain. He named each one and explained their varied features and behaviours. I remember vividly the Fish Eagles for how they commanded the air space, and the Egyptian Geese for showing up in their numbers. African Adventuring i Article and Images Lovelyn Mashave High on African Safari A Trip Through Botswana’s Chobe National Park Image Above A harmonious coexistence of species in Chobe National Park: Water Buck, Buffalo, Elephant

31 www.nzira.co.zw Lovelyn Mashave is a Zimbabwean content creator who enjoys expressing herself through writing. When she’s not writing, she’s reading an inspirational book (preferably with an accurate dose of funny). She’s an unapologetic dream chaser (currently learning French in France), who supports others in chasing their own. As a Marketer and International Business Manager she has worked with and for non-pro昀椀t, private, and public service organisations; managing brands, creating communication portfolios, heading and editing publications. As an educator, she has worked with students in English as a Second Language (ESL) programs in Thailand. As a traveller, she blogs at www.beyondthebirthplace.com. Follow her on Instagram @beyondthebirthplace.com We would later see African chickens scurrying across the mainland park, always on the move. Behold nature’s beauty. One colourful bird posed for pictures, stretching its neck, opening its wings, turning this way and then that way for our viewing pleasure, and then 昀氀ying off into the air. “I hope you enjoyed the show”, I imagined it say. “We sure did”, I responded in my head. The crocodiles seemed to notice us despite feigning ignorance; except one. Stretched out along the bank, it made a sudden sharp turn and lunged into the water as if to put on a show, startling me in the process. I watched from the edge, sure to be supported by the railing so I wouldn’t fall off the boat. The closest I’ve ever come to a crocodile in the wild, probably the closest I ever will since I have no intention of going crocodile cage diving in this lifetime. Somewhere in a short distance, on the island, was a wild wrestling match between two male waterbucks. Horns locked and none letting off. One pushed hard on the other, unlocking, and then posing in challenge. They carried on that way until the other ran off in surrender. After an hour of lunch at Chobe Marina Lodge where they served a delicious meal, we were divided into two 4x4 open safari trucks, given a list of do’s and don’ts, then drove into the wilderness. Our guide seemed to know exactly where to 昀椀nd the animals. It wasn’t long before we were parked next to a herd of kudu. One male chasing a female he liked, but she wasn’t having it, she played hard to get. The real show was when another male started going after the same female. Kudu number one didn’t allow him to stick around for a minute. He gave chase, protecting his territory before any sign of consent from the target. Impalas were the order of the day. The easiest animal to see on a safari. Our guides called them staple food of the carnivore. There were equally as many baboons, troops of them. More than we’d seen from the cruise. Babies on their mother’s stomachs or backs. Young ones swinging from one branch to the next. Fathers leading the pack and standing their ground. 昀椀guring out which was the alpha male wasn’t hard. Their stature and posture were commanding; they stood unmoved. Late in the afternoon, several elephants were at the watering hole by the river. Some, mud bathing, others drinking water, and one grooming against a tree a few meters from us. We were lucky enough to watch them in different states. There was a parade of elephants moving out of the bank, crossing a pool where several hippos were cooling off in the water. I had seen a bigger herd of elephants before, but I had never seen so many hippos in one place. Beautiful; glorious in their size. From afar, they looked like smooth grey rocks. The ones on the bank, mate, and the ones in the water, shiny. It was the kind of day which ends before you want it to. I still wanted to see more. I needed to see more. As fate would have it, the following day back in Zimbabwe, we went on a magni昀椀cent night safari at Livingstone and Stanley, where we saw rhinos and zebras. A few days prior, we had seen lions at Antelope Park in Gweru, Zimbabwe. Put together, at the end of the holiday, I had seen all the big 昀椀ve but one, the leopard. More reason to start planning the next trip to an African safari! Image Male kudu chasing a potential mate. It was interesting to learn that the female kudu is no easy catch. NZ RA African Adventuring

32Aug/Sept 2019 Photo Gallery Wildlife Showcase Images Irina Stotskaya & Dave Dell ©Irina Stotskaya ©Irina Stotskaya ©Irina Stotskaya “Africa has her mysteries and even a wise man respects them” - Miriam Makeba Photo GalleryTop and Right Lion Above Zebra

33 www.nzira.co.zw ©Irina Stotskaya Photo Gallery

34 Aug/Sept 2019 ©Dave Dell ©Dave Dell “There are many great voices but not all are human” - Anonymous Above Cheetahs

www.nzira.co.zw 35 wned and managed by the Nesbitt Hospitality Group, the N1 Hotels offer the best of clean, affordable accommodation. While not a holiday resort, they provide everything you need with impeccable service and a welcoming smile characteristic to Zimbabwe. The N1 Hotel Bulawayo, bought as a block of 昀氀ats and transformed into the 昀椀rst N1 Hotel model, is located in the heart of the CBD at 114 Joshua Nkomo Street. The hotel with 24 rooms in total covering three stories has a combination of twin and double room, eight per 昀氀oor. Each of these rooms, aside from the standard bed/s and en-suite bathroom with a shower option, is equipped with a bar area, TV with the basic package to fend off the boredom, chairs, kettle and complimentary tea and coffee to give you a quick boost when you need it. With a very personal touch to each room, each piece of furniture is designed by Mr Digby Nesbitt himself and crafted in the hotel’s very own workshop and only adds to the modern look of the tiled rooms. Ideal for your business trip, backpack holiday stopover or packed vacation, the centralised manner of the N1 only adds to the convenience of your stay. Rightly named after the N1, the road that runs down the centre of Africa - a travelling road hotel. With breakfast available at an affordable rate, you are aptly prepared for the day currently with their more continental choice of the Early Bird Breakfast that includes cereal, yogurt, hot toast with butter and jam, seasonal fruit alongside juice and a choice of tea or coffee. If you lean more towards an English breakfast, the Sunrise Breakfast inclusive of scrumptious eggs made to your liking, your choice of sizzling beef or pork sausage, a ration of baked beans, grilled tomato, toast served with butter and jam and your preference between steaming tea or coffee if perfect to wake you up. If the breakfast alone is too enticing to pass up on an ordinary day, you can always walk in to join the hotel patrons. Article Rufaro Kaviya Images Nesbitt Hospitality Group N1 Hotel O N1 Hotel

36 Aug/Sept 2019 The Bulawayo branch is the centre of operations and distribution. The Nesbitt Hospitality Group has since expanded from their one hotel in central Bulawayo to two others in the nation’s capital, Harare, and Zimbabwe’s prime travel destination, Victoria Falls. N1 Victoria Falls does have additional features beyond the model including dormitory and campsite accommodation options. N1 Bulawayo is looking forward to future developments. NZ RA N1 Hotel

www.nzira.co.zw 37 here are places around the world where, when you turn a corner or reach a given location, your long weekend is suddenly transformed. Your concerns about work and the of昀椀ce are shelved and immediately replaced with holiday vibes. That is the feeling that grips one as you reach the foot of the escarpment on the Chirundu Road, some three hours from Harare, and turn onto the heavily corrugated road that takes you to the Mana Pools National Park. Steve Bolnick and Craig Chittenden run a simple, yet very classy, safari camp on the banks of the Zambezi River some 15km west of National Parks’ Nyamepi campsite. This mighty river is a lot lower than normal this year so there is a large section of 昀氀oodplain right in front of the Bedouin Tent that marks the centrepiece and general gathering point of Camp Mana. Article and Images Mike Garden camp T MANA Camp Mana Left Mopane Woodland

38Aug/Sept 2019 The camp has a total of six sizeable, self-contained tents for guests with each having its own en suite bathroom comprising a warm shower and 昀氀ushing loo courtesy of some clever use of solar energy. Our long drive from Harare had us arriving late afternoon to be greeted to a wonderful view of large herds of impala, waterbuck, kudu and zebra lazily grazing just in front of the camp seemingly unfazed by the townie visitors. Nothing quite like sitting down in a comfortable deck chair after a long drive, being given a cold beer and a few sticks of biltong to just take stock of your magni昀椀cent surroundings. Then, as the sunset darkened the evening skies, we were escorted down to our tent for a freshening hot shower and change before returning to an excellent three-course meal prepared by one of the 昀椀nest bush chefs. One of the better parts of the 昀椀rst night in these camps are the introductions and chats with fellow guests. More often than not, you have interesting conversations with total strangers about subjects you would never have dreamed of talking about back home. World-class guides are an essential component for trips to the wilds of Zimbabwe so with the clear winter skies allowing an excellent viewing of the Milky Way our guide, John, gave a lengthy analysis of the more prominent constellations. An understanding sense of humour goes a long way too: - female impala (ewes) always excrete at a central midden and when they browse their excrement is harder and more compact than when they graze. So John stopped our group mid-stride, drew a line in the sand and gave us all one of these hard droppings. He then put one in his mouth and spat it out marking the distance it had gone. Our job was, of course, match or better his feat all the while keeping our mouths watering for the tasty breakfast that was to follow shortly afterwards! Lying snugly in bed, long after lights out, came the sound of a lion roaring followed by the inevitable laughing from the everpresent, hyena. ‘Hoooooop, Hooooop’. The 昀椀rst indication of the approaching dawn is the noise coming from a nearby pod of Hippo. These, along with the call of the iconic Fish Eagle are “The sounds of the African Wild” – something that remains etched in the hearts and minds of all who travel these roads. As the sun rises slowly over the 昀氀oodplain, we gather at the central boma for an early morning coffee with rusks. Some decided on the game drive in a comfortable Land Rover. For the more active, there is the option of a two-hour game walk. Brunch is, like the rest of the weekend, a drawn-out relaxed affair with lots of delicious food followed by a mandatory afternoon kip. One of the highlights of our trip occurred whilst we were sitting down to dinner on day two. A young elephant with a new born calf was being harassed by an persistent hyena just 50 meters away from where were dining. The poor mother spent a good 45 minutes 昀椀ghting off his attacks before wandering off with the predator lurking not far away. Tracks seen by us on our early morning walk the next day were, according to our guides, those of the two elephant signifying their safe withdrawal the night before. Although the emphasis by the hosts is that it is not a “Lion Chasing Safari”, we heard roaring lion and laughing hyena every night so one knows they are in the vicinity. Camp Mana sets out to entertain guests who really appreciate the African Bush yet don’t want to be pampered; leave knowing that they have truly had an African experience; serious about the environment and want to take quality bush photography. NZ RA Camp Mana

39 www.nzira.co.zw Camp Mana Left Saddlebill Storks

www.nzira.co.zw 41 The Kariba Glide t 6.30 on 17th May 2019, two light aircraft took off from Harare into the crisp morning light, on a mission that had been 20 years in the planning. They headed for Kariba. Peter Wienand (right) was behind the controls of his sleek, white Lambada motor-glider, with Dick Pitman (left), his co-pilot and navigator beside him. The back-up Cessna 182, piloted by John Reid-Rowland with a crew of two, followed. The plan – which had taken shape over many months (years even), was for the Lambada to climb under power to a height of 15,000 feet above the Kariba Air昀椀eld (where the air is so thin that the pilots have to use oxygen), to point the motor-glider in the direction of Bumi Hills and to switch off the engine. The glider would drift gently across the huge inland sea of Lake Kariba, covering some 70km and, hopefully, (depending on the weather conditions, wind direction and speed) arrive overhead Bumi Hills to complete a safe landing on the airstrip without using the engine at all. The team in the backup aircraft would rendezvous with the Lambada mid-air (not an easy feat) to photograph this extraordinary gliding “昀椀rst”. The glider, with engine off, began its epic journey with a strong headwind which threatened to hamper progress but Nyami-Nyami, the river spirit of the Zambezi, was obviously in favour. a dream come true A As they descended, the wind direction changed and they were propelled slowly but surely in the direction of Bumi Hills with the breeze behind them. Meanwhile, the backup Cessna circled high over the dramatic scenery of mountains, inlets and bays at the southern shore of Lake Kariba, with the team keeping in touch by radio and searching the vast cloudless morning sky for a glimpse of the glider. Far below, lay the deep gorge of the Sanyati River where it meets the deep blue waters of the lake; the sand-fringed peninsulas of Spurwing and Fothergill – protruding out of the 昀氀atlands of the Matusadona National Park - islands no longer because of this year’s alarmingly low water levels. Suddenly, extraordinarily, the glider slid into view - hanging in mid-air like a beautiful white bird against the azure blues of the Ume River estuary, and the magni昀椀cent backdrop of the Matusadona National Park. The photo-opportunity “昀氀y-past” was brief – a few quick grab-shots, and then it was gone in a 昀氀ash and a blur as the engine-borne Cessna quickly overtook the powerless bird borne only by the wind and the air. Article Sally Wynn-Pitman The Kariba Glide

42 Aug/Sept 2019 As the wooded slopes of Bumi Hills approached, fringed with a skirt of red sand and green shoreline grass, the Cessna descended to land. An important detail in the planning of the Kariba Glide was the need to clear the Bumi airstrip of any wandering wildlife in advance of the glider’s 昀椀nal approach. There would be no second chance involved in this exercise. The team from Bumi Hills Anti-Poaching Unit were willing and happy to assist with their vehicle, along with the management of Bumi Hills Safari Lodge. They, too, were excited to play a vital role in this unique adventure. The Lambada arrived overhead with 5,000 feet to spare – much to the delight of the two pilots inside. For the 昀椀rst time since the start of the glide, they were able to relax and enjoy the beauty of the lake, the islands and the mountains below as they circled overhead, gradually losing height. All their painstaking calculations of wind direction and speed, distance and height, pre and during the 昀氀ight had paid off. Their 昀椀nal destination – the thin ribbon of bush airstrip nestled behind Bumi Hills was in sight. Now for the 昀椀nal approach. First a glide downwind, then the turn (carefully calculated to allow enough height) and then the approach glide into a strong headwind. Peter applied the air-brakes judiciously in the tricky manoeuvre down onto the airstrip. At 9.31am, with one last, playful toss of wind from around the side of the hill, Nyami-Nyami released the glider to the ground with a bounce. It rolled smoothly forwards to a 昀椀nal stop right in front of the welcoming party. Two ecstatic, and somewhat incredulous pilots emerged, beaming from ear to ear! Now it was time to celebrate and relax. Rhino Safari Camp in the Matusadona National Park, across the waters from Bumi Hills, had kindly agreed to host the gliding team for the night. The short boat transfer and a delicious lunch was followed by a wonderful afternoon and evening’s game-viewing among the elephants and waterbirds on the shoreline. A full moon rising and a crimson sun setting behind Kariba’s famous tree silhouettes provided the perfect celebratory setting. They had done it! Peter’s dream to glide over Lake Kariba had at last become a reality! Now there’s a new challenge – where to for the next Big Glide?! As the team gathered in front of the glider for a photoshoot – the relief was palpable. The Kariba Glide team would like to extend their heartfelt thanks to the following who made the event possible:- - KW Blasting (for loan of the Cessna 182 back-up aircraft) - Bumi Hills Anti-Poaching Unit (for helping with logistics on the ground and photography) - Bumi Hills Safari Lodge (for helping with radio comms and logistics on the ground) - Rhino Safari Camp (for collecting and hosting the team overnight at very reasonable rates) NZ RA NZ RA The Kariba Glide

44 Aug/Sept 2019 For more information: Shirley Wilson Sales & Marketing c: + 263-772-228-070 e: sales@chilogorge.com w: www.chilogorge.com Hebert Phikela The Director for Centre for Cultural Development Initiative c: +263-775-953-307 ttending a festival from another culture is like putting that culture under a microscope – one often sees the 昀椀ne and intricate components of that culture in vivid and vibrant detail. People all around the world love joining together and sharing a good time through festivals and celebrations. Festivals are great way to experience local culture. Sometimes they offer a glimpse into past. Built on their relationship with the Shangaan community, the Shangaan Festival provides a rewarding and educational experience. Held annually, this festival allows an opportunity for the Machangana people of the south-eastern lowveld of Zimbabwe to share their vibrant social culture through hut paintings. The celebration coincides with the integral tradition of passing down of their culture to their youth through song and dance. A lot of exuberant dances are performed, such as Muchongoyo, Chokoto, Marula, Chinyambele and Chigubu. The men wearing grass, cowrie shell and porcupine quill headdresses and armbands. They are also often adorned with wild animal skins or goat skin skirts. To add to the music they wear gourd leg rattles. The women wear the traditional “Chibabela” skirts, with multiple strands of twisted beads wrapped around their hips and adorning their necks. Wire bracelets decorate their bare ankles. Mahenye Cultural Festival Images Lin Barrie A THE MACHANGANA Cultural Festival The Shangaan Community in support with Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge host their annual Mahenye Cultural Festival with the aim to maintain and promote the traditions and culture. This festival aims to ensure that this heritage is passed on to future generations. A colourful informative morning is spent in the Mahenye village with visits to the Secondary School and clinic. This allows for an opportunity to explore an authentic village and watch village life in one of Zimbabwe’s remotest corners. After a picnic lunch, the festival begins. Become immersed in the Shangaan dances, songs, poetry and storytelling while marveling at the intricate dress and bead ware. This is an opportunity to admire local craftwork, wall decorations and traditional hunting methods in the village.

www.nzira.co.zw 45 The Chibabela skirts are deeply gathered and beaded skirts, worn under bright wraps and displayed when dancing for special occasions. These skirts sway and 昀氀are out when dancing to create a mesmerising effect. They are made from traditional striped, woven “Salempore” fabric and glass seed beads. A strong tradition of using glass seed beads for decorating skirts and for necklaces is still maintained. Glass seed beads are treasured for decorating items of everyday use, such as snuff boxes and containers made from hollowed out wild gourds and squashes. Men and women wear earrings, but this is less common amongst the men these days. A kudu horn is treasured as a lead musical instrument, as are wood and skin drums. Musical wind and string instruments such as Tingoma, Chizembe, and Chitende are still made. Ladies enjoy the piercing sound of tin whistles to lead their dance troops. Cultural education and appreciation in昀氀uence economic growth and advance a rewarding intellectual, emotional, moral and spiritual life of a people. Community development is a collaborative and facilitative process undertaken by the community that shares a common purpose of building capacity. This weekend long cultural event is known to present a learning experience for all. Many forms of dance, food, music, arts, clothes and languages are presented. The event attendees can expect quite an experience. NZ RA Machangana Cultural Festival

46 Aug/Sept 2019 Air Zim

SPECIAL HEROES REDUCED PRICES ON FLIGHTS! Route The fares include applicable taxes Travel to be completed by the 30th of September 2019 One-Way Return Harare - Victoria Falls From ZW$850 From ZW$1450 From ZW$1045 From ZW$2020 From ZW$2020 From ZW$2025 From ZW$600 From ZW$600 From ZW$1150 From ZW$1150 From ZW$1150 Harare - Bulawayo Bulawayo - Victoria Falls Harare - Johannesburg Bulawayo - Johannesburg Harare - Dar Es Salaam *Terms & Conditions Apply FOR RESERVATIONS CONTACT US ON Central Reservations: +263 242 575021-5, Harare town office: +263 242 251836/ +263 712 621 909; Bulawayo: +263 292 72051-4, +263 712 621 911; Victoria Falls: +263 2138 44316/ +263 712 212 121; Johannesburg: +27 11 390 3064/65 OR Visit any local Travel agent You can book online via our email; reservations@airzimbabwe.aero or website www.airzimbabwe.aero

48 Aug/Sept 2019 ild Is Life is a genuine wildlife sanctuary for injured and orphaned wild animals. It is also home to the Zimbabwe Elephant Nursery (ZEN), Zimbabwe’s 昀椀rst and only elephant orphanage. Our focus is primarily on endangered and specially protected species. Started by Roxy Danckwerts in 1998, Wild Is Life has rescued more than 300 individual animals, comprising of 18 different species of African wildlife. The Zimbabwe Elephant Nursery is made up of two projects, namely; The Nursery and The Re-Wilding facility. The Nursery is a specialized care center in Harare where orphaned neonate elephants come to receive the care and attention that is needed to give them the best possible chance of survival. The ReWilding facility is situated close to Victoria Falls where we have secured a 34,000-hectare forest reserve. It is here where the elephants begin their journey back into the wild. To date, ZEN has successfully rescued seventeen elephant orphans, with two of our elephants recently making a full reintegration back into the wild. The remaining 昀椀fteen elephants continue to be in various stages of their rehabilitation process towards also making a return back into their natural habitat. Wild Is Life and ZEN maintains the philosophy that every individual animal matters and we work tirelessly to ensure that every animal that comes into our care is treated as an individual. Each animal in our care has speci昀椀c needs and this makes the lives of the people who have dedicated themselves to these animals immensely complicated. No individual animal is the same and this requires us to curate speci昀椀c ways of caring for that individual animal. With particular reference to neonate elephant orphans, this becomes ever more challenging. Elephants are perhaps the most advanced mammalian species on our planet. Thousands of years of evolution and limited scienti昀椀c research makes rehabilitating neonate calves exceptionally dif昀椀cult. Over the last 5 years, we have learned a lot, we have made mistakes and we have also had a lot of success. Elephants have been persecuted for generations and often the calves that come into the ZEN Nursery have experienced immense trauma. Working with these vulnerable creatures has provided us with a wealth of experience and knowledge. While there is immense joy that comes from witnessing a young elephant have a second chance at life, there is also a lot of pain and heartbreak that goes with the elephants that do not make it. The nature of the work done at WIL and ZEN is multi-faceted and it requires the integration of many different pieces. It is a physical, emotional and spiritual commitment. Our work is a matter of life and death. While we cannot save every animal that comes into our care, we do everything in our power to give every animal a second chance at a life lived in a loving and caring environment. Wherever possible, the intended outcome of our work is to see wild animals return to a life in the wild. Our vision continues to develop and grow. Through the generous support of the International Fund for Animal Welfare(IFAW) and various other organizations, Wild is Life and ZEN has continued to evolve and develop into the organism that is today. Our work now involves animal welfare, education, anti-poaching, community development, habitat restoration and reforestation. We have committed ourselves to long-term sustainability of wildlife conservation in Zimbabwe. One by one we try to set an example for a new model of conservation in our country. Wild is Life For more information about visiting the Wild Is Life Sanctuary, please do not hesitate to contact us bookings@ wildislife.org. To learn more about our work, please visit our website www. zimbabweelephantnursery.com Article Zimbabwe Elephant Nursery W NZ RA Wild is Life

www.nzira.co.zw 49 It’s a little known fact that elephants snore. According to the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (SWT), whose keepers spend their days and nights caring for the Kenya’s orphaned elephants, they trumpet and even kick their legs while dreaming. For over 40 years, the Trust has pioneered the hand-raising of milk dependent orphaned elephants and, at their worldrenowned Nursery in Nairobi National Park, the elephants’ human carers spend their days as surrogate mothers to rescued infants and sleep next to their charges each night o昀昀ering comfort, reassurance and three-hourly feeds of specialist formula milk as part of the Trust’s Orphans’ Project. Fifteen orphan elephants are currently being cared for at the Nursery, eighty more at their Reintegration Units, and another 134 have already returned to the wild – many of them have been orphaned at the hands of humans due to poaching or human-wildlife con昀氀ict, but also through drought, habitat loss and natural causes. Humans are elephants’ greatest threat; they are also their brightest hope. Dololo’s story recent arrival to the Nursery is Dololo who collapsed and became stuck in a muddy pool in the Tsavo ecosystem, southern Kenya, with only his trunk raised above the waterline to breathe. Local people found him and noti昀椀ed the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) whose rangers waded in and hauled the exhausted baby to safety before calling the SWT for help. They responded immediately, sending a rapid-response helicopter to the scene to collect the baby and transport him to their Nursery. When orphans arrive at the Nursery many, like Dololo, are in an extremely bad way. Some have seen their mothers slaughtered for their ivory and are profoundly traumatised; others suffer from starvation, dehydration or injuries caused by predators or humans. All, however, are given the same unconditional love and round-the-clock care in an often herculean effort to pull these babies back from the brink of death. In Dololo’s case, Keepers worked tirelessly to breathe life into the fragile infant who hovered between life and death for days. As Angela Sheldrick, CEO of the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust puts it, “At times we feared the worst for this poor little elephant. As is so often the case with starvation victims, he collapsed regularly and each time IV 昀氀uids were required to seep life back into his ravaged body. He was in a desperately sorry state, and it was a very long time before he began to grow stronger and resemble an elephant rather than some bony apparition.” Elephants live socially complex, family-oriented lives and, recognising this, the keepers at the Trust offer the orphans love, emotional support and the learning experiences that each young elephant needs to thrive, as they would have received from their now absent mothers. To date, the SWT has successfully raised more than 240 orphaned elephants making them experts in elephant husbandry; their advice and expertise being called upon when orphaned elephants are rescued in countries across the world. Article Sheldrick Wildlife Trust A Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (SWT) Kenya Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

50 Aug/Sept 2019 Back at the Nairobi Nursery Approaching Dololo’s stable door at bedtime, one encounters a very different elephant to that rescued nine months ago. Gone are the protruding ribs and cheekbones, now a rotund little individual lies on a mattress of soft hay. As Angela Sheldrick says, “Dololo is beginning to resemble what he must have looked like before his world fell apart. It gives us great pleasure to have breathed life back into this special boy who we feel sure will grow into a magni昀椀cently handsome bull one day.” In time, Dololo will be moved to one of the SWT’s three Reintegration Units where, one day, he’ll stand shoulder to shoulder with visiting wild bulls. Afforded a second chance at life. About the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust The SWT Nursery for orphaned elephants is open to the public daily from 11am -12 noon. Orphans cared for by the SWT can be fostered as part of their Adoption Program for as little as $50. The Trust also operates Eco Lodges for conservation, enabling guests to see their projects 昀椀rst-hand, while supporting projects to save wildlife. For more information visit: www.sheldrickwildlifetrust.org Ithumba Reintegration Unit 153km from Nairobi, in Tsavo East National Park, SWT keepers clad in khaki green coats watch over two elephants as they tussle in the dust. Ahead of them, elephants bathe in freshly topped up water pools and, metres away, giant bull elephants observe proceedings. Incredibly, this is a scene witnessed almost daily at the Trust’s Ithumba Unit where older orphan elephants mix with wild herds from whom they learn the essential survival and social skills that will one day enable them to live independent of their keepers. Ithumba is a remote haven for elephants but it wasn’t always this way. During the elephant poaching crisis of the 1980s which saw African elephant numbers decimated, elephants 昀氀ed this area and bushmeat poachers settled in. Recognising Ithumba’s potential, the Trust began conducting anti-poaching patrols and soon added a 昀椀xed wing aircraft to support ground efforts from the air. Today, the Trust’s Aerial Surveillance Unit includes two helicopters and 昀椀ve planes, while 12 De-Snaring Teams patrol on foot and by vehicle throughout Tsavo in partnership with the KWS, ensuring a future for these majestic and intelligent animals. In securing the area and establishing a Reintegration Unit there in 2004, the SWT sought to bring back Northern Tsavo’s elephants. The gamble paid off and, within a few years of the Unit opening, elephant encounters became more and more frequent. Incredibly, just 15 years on, one can watch up to 80 wild elephants converge at any one-time, accessing the numerous watering holes maintained by the Trust. Encounters with wild elephants are pivotal to the successful reintegration of the orphaned elephants and testament to the success of the Trust who have already reintegrated 134 orphans raised by humans back into wild populations. These elephants are protected by 昀椀eld teams and their transition has been so successful that several of the females have mated with wild bulls and gone on to have their own calves. Demonstrating the strong bonds formed between Keeper and orphan, many of these new mothers have returned to the Unit after giving birth to introduce their new-borns to their former carers. The SWT is aware of 30 calves born to orphans they have raised from infancy, having been blessed with visits from mother and baby on these occasions. NZ RA Sheldrick Wildlife Trust