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52Aug/Sept 2019 Old Legs Tour Riding for pensioners By Eric de Jong n April 7th 2018 four middle aged to elderly mountain bike riders; Bruce Fivaz aged 72, Neal Leach aged 70, Dave Whitehead aged 42 and yours truly aged 58, left Harare on the inaugural Old Legs Tour. We were headed in the general direction of Cape Town through Botswana and the Kalahari, a town called Hotazel and the arid, open spaces that are the Northern Cape. Our route took us 3168 km over twenty-four ride days and three rest days. We were ably supported by Jenny de Jong and Ryan Moss. When Bruce 昀椀rst touted the idea of riding to Cape Town, we were huf昀椀ng and puf昀椀ng on a social ride through the Mazowe Valley. I thought he was asking me if I wanted to go for coffee after the ride so I agreed. After the ride when I found out he’d been talking about riding to Cape Town I said many expletives. He told me not to worry because the ride would be downhill the whole way. Eventually, I said yes. I have more reverse gears than an Italian war tank which led to setting a condition that we had to ride for a cause. We then dedicated our Old Legs Tour to the plight of Zimbabwe’s old age pensioners, setting ourselves a fund raising target of $55,000. I started training in earnest a hundred days out. I survived a 105 km ride with Dave Whitehead. If I had mouth to mouth and performance enhancing drugs for lunch, I was sure I could’ve pushed on for the other 35 km needed to reach our daily Cape Town target distance. So the 昀椀rst day on the Old Legs Tour would be no problem. Days two through to twentyseven – not so much though. Shock and horror set in when we 昀椀nished plotting our route to Cape Town through Bulawayo, Botswana and large chunks of the Northern Cape. I now know that the words “short cut” and “Botswana” cannot be used together in the same sentence. I also know that whoever was in charge of continental drift clearly wasn’t on bicycles and planning our trip thus they left Cape Town and Harare ridiculously far apart. More shock and more horror, mostly from my bottom this time when with less than a week to go my 昀椀fth favourite pair of padded riding shorts were stolen! A detailed description of the journey through the hilarious diary entries Eric Chicken Legs de Jong is available on the NZiRA website. Check out Ryan Moss’s incredible video of last year’s Old Legs Tour on Facebook, You Tube. Links are available on the NZiRA website. If you are enjoying the story and want to read further, scan the QR code to go straight to the story. On our Old Legs Tour we rode 3168 km through deserts, over mountain passes and through a town called Hotazel, raising $71,000 for Zimbabwe’s pensioners. We had fun, we did some good and we did epic. We can’t wait to do it again. In Zimbabwe, transfer to Bulawayo Help Network via their CABS Platinum Account Number: 1124733450 or their Ecocash Merchant Number: 139149. Monies donated help pensioners country wide. O NZ RA
53 www.nzira.co.zw
54 Aug/Sept 2019 Dooze By Callie-Anne Gavazzi It started below the mango trees, in a place much wilder than this. A little bush girl. They called her Dooze, in fact, they still do. Maybe I was just destined for it or Maybe I always knew. He was the biggest and the greatest. And she, the queen of all. I learned, I loved, I grew. All because of you. Maybe I was just destined for it or Maybe I always knew. Eating farm cream like butter, cooking prawns & lula On the beach by the vilanculos docks. We even ate oysters straight off the rocks. Maybe I was just destined for it or Maybe I always knew. Eating sadza & chomolia with Gogo. Eating fois gras from France on the bed with you. The Millions of mulberries from our oxford road mulberry tree. Maltabella & diddle daddle when we were young and care free. Maybe I was just destined for it or Maybe I always knew. The Swainsons Francolin at the skinning shed that I shot with a .22 The bream in the falcon boat 昀椀shing net. From worm to hook, I was always out of bed waiting for you. Maybe I was just destined for it or Maybe I always knew. The wild is calling me. Perhaps it always has. Perhaps it always will. One thing I know is true. Africa, you are my Bright, my Black and my Blue. I owe it all to you! They called her Dooze, in fact they still do. This is for you. On the Rise rowing up in Bulawayo was the best childhood I could have ever asked for. It’s the greatest city in Zimbabwe. I went to a small school called Whitestone. I am still very close to many of my friends from there. It was a wonderful childhood, with weekends spend on the river, on the houseboat in Binga or on my father’s game farm. I was always outdoors and spent a lot of my time in the bush and 昀氀ying with my dad on all his 昀椀shing trips. I think growing up in Bulawayo has played a huge part in where I am today, although I wouldn’t have known it at the time. As I look back now I see how all the pieces of my childhood have led to my passion about food, Africa and my Zimbabwean heritage. Callie-Anne g Callie-Anne On the Rise
www.nzira.co.zw 55 With the help of my chefs, we are currently cooking in over 12 African countries and it’s growing each day. “A love affair with food in Africa” is a dedication to my childhood growing up in the wilderness of Zimbabwe and my love for food. The book is inspired by my travels and journey thus far. I laid down recipes from my life in the bush and memories from when I was a little girl. As always, I put my own touch to them. These are traditional recipes with my own modern twist. This is a very special piece of me that I am so very proud to have shared with so many readers. Through all these achievements it has to be said that it did not come easy, perseverance won in the end. What you can take away from all of this, what I can say I have learnt through it all, is always 昀椀ght for what you want. Nothing in life comes easy but if you really want something believe in yourself, despite what others may say. Keep going and keep working towards it. All I have accomplished began as dreams of the things I wanted in my life so to sit here and write about it is an incredible thing for me and it always will be. It is my mission in life to share Africa with the world, and this is just the beginning. I think I always knew I loved food, and eating it. However, the cooking side hit me when I lived in London. I became obsessed with trying food and creating my own versions. I was addicted to cooking shows. Slowly, food consumed my life. After moving back to Africa I knew that this was the path I needed to pursue. I felt a sense of responsibility to share the African food with the world. My cooking show, “Into the wild”, was something that I had wanted to showcase for a very long time. It allowed me an opportunity for cooking outdoors and taking my viewers into the wild with food and 昀椀re. We have the most incredible canvas to work with in Africa, especially in Zimbabwe. Food is the most important thing for humans and wildlife. Cuisine, in particular, plays an important part in culture and heritage. I am just trying to 昀椀nd the middle ground where we can all exist together through our mutual love for food. The most challenging part of my cooking show was playing the role of producer and talent. I did so much work preproduction; arranging so much of the logistics and the planning behind the scene. It was a feat. Although I loved doing it, I still had to create recipes and cook on set. The most rewarding part of the show has to be the accomplishment of the whole thing. All the work and all the dreaming was 昀椀nally complete and I could sit back and be proud of myself. Be proud that no matter what happens or what people say I had done it. I reached that goal. “CallieAnne On Safari” is one of my greatest accomplishments to date. It started as a small idea I had and now it has turned into a successful business. The concept is to take Africa to the world through food and travel. My food safari services are active all over Africa. I empower women all over Africa to embrace their love for food and the bush. Nothing in life comes easy but if you really want something and believe in yourself, despite what others may say. NZ RA Callie-Anne On the Rise
56 Aug/Sept 2019 These are a little bite of African heaven, traditional Tapas! They are so unique in 昀氀avour and an insane combo. A little 昀椀nicky, like most little things to plate, but look beautiful when you serve them! P.S If you don’t have maize meal you can use polenta as a substitute. Ingredients: 1 cup mealie meal A Bunch of spinach ½ a chopped onion 2 garlic cloves My spicy homemade mayo 2 bream 昀椀llets (tilapia) Salt and pepper to taste Splash of olive oil 1 lemon Method: 1 Cup of water 1) In a deep-frying pan, splash some olive oil and throw in your chopped onion and garlic. Allow it to soften and chop the spinach in the meantime. 2) Remove the veins and chop the spinach as 昀椀ne as you can get it. This can go in with onions when they are soft, wilt the spinach and then add the cup of mealie meal to it. Mix it well until the spinach is incorporated throughout, you need to add the cup of water at this stage, little by little (you might not need it all) 3) The mixture will start to look like a thick mash potato consistency, season it well. Now we can start to make our little cakes. With wet hands to avoid it sticking, make your kadiki (small) cakes. 4) We need to sizzle these a little to bronze them on each side. Be gentle as you don’t want them to break. 5) In the meantime, pop your bream 昀椀llets onto a baking tray, gloss and season well. Throw in some lemon slices and bake them at 180 degrees for 15mins. 6) Let’s assemble… Onto a platter or board, place your little cakes. Top them with a dollop of my spicy mayo (or your fav mayo) and 昀椀nish it with a shard of the 昀氀aked bream. Season and serve. Cakes Kadiki Sadza Ne Muriwo Prep Time 15mins Cooking Time 30mins Serves 10-12 people
58Aug/Sept 2019 Cyclone Idai When Zimbabwe’s O昀昀-road Club Rose To The Rescue Challenge T he 4x4 Club Zimbabwe is well known for their yearly Jamboree. Held at Donnybrook just outside Harare, this is a tough competition where teams navigate their vehicles through extreme courses. The public is always thrilled to see roll-overs, wheels in the air, the mud-run and the modi昀椀ed vehicles and what the drivers can make them do. One of them even has two steering wheels! Exciting, thrilling and above all, spectacular. Men and women who love nothing better than being bogged down, axle-deep in mud or sand. However, there is another story about this club that needs to be told. Brave people, ordinary citizens like you and me, sel昀氀essly putting aside their day to day lives and rushing to the assistance of others. In mid-March, there was an environmental disaster of massive proportions in Zimbabwe and the rest of the world watched in horror as an ensuing humanitarian crisis unfolded. Cyclone Idai ripped through the Eastern Highlands of Zimbabwe and left Chimanimani cut off from the outside world. The road network was beyond damaged. It was destroyed. When the cyclone hit, the rest of Zimbabwe rallied together in an unprecedented show of solidarity and compassion, to help fellow Zimbabwean victims. This outpouring included help from 4x4 club members. They were contacted by the Miracle Missions team in Mutare, asking for urgent assistance. The appeal was enthusiastically responded to in true Zimbabwean spirit. Club members rose to the challenge, pitting both their skills and their vehicles against a very real, dangerous situation. Vehicles were needed to ferry in vital supplies that were too heavy for the helicopters. These had to be suitable to manage the now non-existent roads: this was just the kind of help that the 4x4 club members could provide. They supplied a variety of vehicles from Nissan Patrols to Toyota Landcruisers and even Autoworld lent the team an Isuzu double cab company vehicle. Members Mass Kirk from Mutare and Wilma Hoefnagels organised the use of a 5-tonne Daf 4x4 truck and a Unimog. “These vehicles were able to do the work of 5 - 10 normal vehicles and deliver 7.5 tonnes of supplies through to the areas that had been cut off,” says Club chairman Pete Benzon. BJ Lawry in his home-built Land Rover, was on hand to scout out possible, but risky routes. He also helped less capable vehicles through thick mud. Fellow club members Kelvin Weare and Mike Gill ferried doctors and supplies. Kelvin provided GPS coordinates of single lane woodcutters’ trails which at the time where the only routes into the area. This opened up channels to deliver muchneeded aid, but this was treacherous, thick mud and steep hillside proving tough going even for the veteran offroaders. Having vehicles able to successfully negotiate such dangerous driving was both empowering and gratifying for club members. “It deepened our love and appreciation for our sport. It has also stretched our capabilities to a new level,” Benzon re昀氀ects. “We are immensely proud of our rescue team and indeed, all those who helped in the distant response. We have seen a truly spectacular display of Zimbabwean solidarity and spirit and I know we are not alone in feeling a deep pride in our collective ability to rise to the challenge.” As it turns out, club activities include day trips where members drive off the beaten track, giving them an opportunity to use their 4x4 vehicle and, for the less experienced, learn the abilities of their car and how to navigate the terrain. One of the aims of the club is to teach how to use one’s 4x4 sensibly and safely. These expeditions saw the club in good stead, able to offer practical and expert assistance to the combined rescue mission. Article and Images The 4x4 Club Zimbabwe The 4x4 Club Zimbabwe
59 www.nzira.co.zw Every year there are a few 4x4 club camping expeditions, usually to the lesser known parts of the country and using roads where you need your 4x4. The club is also active in conservation. Every year the club is asked to help National Parks like Hwange and Mana Pools to clear roads that aren’t used much. These roads need to be opened up to give anti-poaching teams access, or for much needed research. Volunteers go out to spend 3-4 days of hard work in opening overgrown tracks by cutting branches, removing trees that have fallen on the tracks and digging access in and out of river crossings. At the end of the trip these roads will be accessible for 4x4 vehicles and hopefully give research teams and Parks’ vehicles access to keep protecting our wildlife. Though it’s sweaty work, it’s also a unique chance to camp in our beautiful National Parks in the remote areas, discovering unknown waterholes and enjoying the wildlife and bush. Many of members have been with the club for years and love to share their experiences; be it from tips on vehicle maintenance, 昀椀nding spares, advising on driving techniques and how to ef昀椀ciently equip your car for camping purposes that do not break the bank. Join the club if you’d like to know more about your 4x4 vehicle, how to use it, maintenance tips or just if you love to spend time driving, exploring and camping in the bush. “The club is also active in conservation” NZ RA The 4x4 Club Zimbabwe Email: [email protected] Membership: 0774-342-648 Wilma
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61 www.nzira.co.zw No matter what time of the year you intend to travel, a mini 昀椀rst aid kit is a necessity. If you haven’t been packing one all along you should de昀椀nitely consider one just in case. Avoid taking stressful breaks during your adventures with visits to unfamiliar pharmacies or, worse, having to endure discomfort somewhere remote during hikes. Here are six items to start your mini medical aid kit for all your holidays. PAIN PILLS Aches and pains, even the dull ones, put a damper on the festivities. Carry some painkillers with you. If your tried and trusted brand isn’t available wherever you go, you’ll be glad to have some in your bag. STOMACH MEDS Holidays are the time we indulge in a few extra drinks, or you eat more than we should and that puts our stomach out of whack. Throw in jet lag, and our digestive system might be even more confused. Keep some pills to curb indigestion, diarrhea or heart burn. ANTIBACTERIAL GEL For applying to minor cuts and abrasions. When traveling in less-than-fresh locations, a little antibacterial gel can make a huge difference. Have some gel on hand for minor cuts and abrasions. BANDAGE Not all cuts and scratches happen outside during hikes so even if you’re not planning a wilderness vacation adventure, pack some bandages. Bandages are handy in case of blisters, shaving cuts and other random small issues that might be in need of a quick 昀椀x. ANTI-ITCH CREAM Once an itch begins it demands attention. Don’t waste precious moments focusing on bug bites and small skin reactions. If heading to a mosquito prone destination, this is essential. HANDWIPES Hand sanitizer works as well. Anti-septic wipes remove most of the germs that water and soap cannot. Please note that you shouldn’t use wipes on open wounds as they contain alcohol. Clean your wounds with water. Not enough of the alcohol from wipes will enter your wound to cause harm but it’s still painful. Suitcase Stories Travel First Aid Kit Article Primrose Muzah Suitcase Stories
Wild: From Lost to Found on the Paci昀椀c Crest Trail Cheryl Strayed At twenty-two, Cheryl Strayed thought she had lost everything. In the wake of her mother’s death, her family scattered and her own marriage was soon destroyed. Four years later, with nothing more to lose, she made the most impulsive decision of her life. With no experience or training, driven only by blind will, she would hike more than a thousand miles of the Paci昀椀c Crest Trail from the Mojave Desert through California and Oregon to Washington State — and she would do it alone. Black Leopard, Red Wolf Marlon James Tracker is known far and wide for his skills as a hunter: “He has a nose,” people say. Engaged to track down a mysterious boy who disappeared three years earlier, Tracker breaks his own rule of always working alone when he 昀椀nds himself part of a group that comes together to search for the boy. The band is a hodgepodge, full of unusual characters with secrets of their own, including a shape-shifting man-animal known as Leopard. Black Leopard, Red Wolf explores the fundamentals of truths, the limits of power, the excesses of ambition, and our need to understand them all. The Worst Journey in the World Apsley Cherry-Garrard The Worst Journey in the World recounts Robert Falcon Scott’s ill-fated expedition to the South Pole. Apsley Cherry-Garrard, the youngest member of Scott’s team and one of three men to make and survive the notorious Winter Journey, draws on his 昀椀rst hand experiences as well as the diaries of his compatriots to create a stirring and detailed account of Scott’s legendary expedition. Cherry himself would be among the search party that discovered the corpses of Scott and his men, who had long since perished from starvation and brutal cold. It is through Cherry’s insightful narrative and keen descriptions that Scott and the other members of the expedition are fully memorialized. Percy Jackson & The Olympians: The Lightening Thief Rick Riordan Percy Jackson is a good kid, but he can’t seem to focus on his schoolwork or control his temper. And lately, being away at boarding school is only getting worse. When Percy’s mom 昀椀nds out, she knows it’s time that he knew the truth about where he came from, and that he’s to go to the one place he’ll be safe - Camp Half Blood, a summer camp for demigods. Soon a mystery unfolds and together with his friends, Percy sets out on a quest to reach the gates of the Underworld and prevent a catastrophic war between the gods. Kick start the Adventure Bastille Power Elton John Bennie and the Jets The Script Mad Love Prince Kiss Phillips Phillips Gone gone gone Imagine Dragons West coast Foster the People Pumped up kicks By Rufaro Kaviya
www.nzira.co.zw 63 Upcoming events “The thing about time is you can’t waste it more than once” Zimbabwean Music Festival Oregon, USA 8 - 11 August Zimfest has something for everyone: The Zimbabwean Music Festival is an annual celebration of Zimbabwean music and culture. A fun-昀椀lled, family-friendly three-day cultural festival of concerts, workshops, community conversations, a marketplace and more. Zimfest is the largest annual gathering in North America of students, teachers, performers, and fans of Zimbabwean music. The Lake Harvest Kariba Challenge Kariba, Zimbabwe Kids Fishing Competition 10 August An amazing kids event to bring the whole family, 昀椀lled with lots of fun, competitiveness and energy. Kids are spoilt with adventure and overwhelmed by the rushing excitement and 昀氀owing Adrenalin. Half Marathon and Fun Run 11 August The Kariba Half Marathon is a 21.1km road race, one of the toughest Half Marathons on the African race calendar. It also includes a 10km Fun Run/Walk, Kids Lomagundi Lake Race, kids’ movies and an after party to end o昀昀 a weekend by the lake. Nyamazi Festival Juliasdale, Zimbabwe 10 – 13 August The Nyamazi Festival is a once a year outdoor event hosted at Nyamazi Greens, a working farm and camp site nestled within 30 acres of tranquil msasa and pine woodlands. We welcome hundreds of outdoor lovers converging on this little gem in the heart of the Eastern Highlands to enjoy 3 days of the best in wild camping, outdoor living, food, great music and activities. The African Union and The Nerve Africa Presents The Global Africa Forum On Communications Kigali, Rwanda 21 – 23 August The event described as the Davos of African communications will bring together more than 200 leaders in public, marketing and corporate communications who will be spearheading conversations on the signi昀椀cance of strategic communications in the economic development of countries across Africa, as the continent enjoys global focus as the latest frontier of growth. The Okavhango Delta Music Festival Okavhango Delta, Botswana 29 August – 1 September Situated on a magni昀椀cent island in the 昀氀oodplains of the Delta swamps, enjoy three days of live local and international bands, delicious food, eco-art installations and set up camp in the most beautiful scenery for blissful fun. Sanganai/Hlanganani World Tourism Expo Bulawayo, Zimbabwe 12 – 14 September The annual Tourism Trade Fair organized by the Zimbabwe Tourism Authority provides a unique opportunity for tourism stakeholders to meet, network, negotiate and conduct business with tourism professionals from both local and various tourism source markets under one roof. African Bird Fair Roodeport, South Africa 14 - 15 September African Bird Fair display products like Bird quilts, bird food, motorcycle saddlebags, seed mix, seed sprouts, bird toys & stand, cage liners, bird food & much more. Mahenye Cultural Festival Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge, Zimbabwe 21 September Enjoy the sights and sounds of the Shangaan dancers and singers, poetry and storytelling, dress and bead ware, traditional hunting methods, home building and wall decorations, palm wine tasting, and the opportunity to admire the local craftwork produced in the village. Lake of Stars Festival Nkhata Bay District, Malawi 27 – 29 September A boutique festival like no other, taking place in a beautiful, remote part of Malawi where a castle stands on the curve of the lake. Lake of Stars Festival is an annual three-day international festival held on the shores of Lake Malawi, the third largest lake in Africa. Upcoming Events
64Aug/Sept 2019 Media NZ RA Travel Zimbabwe 0242 782726 [email protected] 37 Victoria Drive, Newlands, Harare
65 www.nzira.co.zw 1 2 3 4 5 9 6 7 8 1110 12 13 16 17 18 14 15 19 20 23 24 27 25 26 28 21 30 32 22 29 31 5 4 2 1 9 1 6 2 9 6 9 6 4 3 2 6 7 9 8 3 2 7 1 8 5 9 3 3 7 6 5 9 1 Sudoku Medium Crossword by Mary-Anne ACROSS 1. An honest gene guided the druids (10) 6. Large boat for transport (4) 10. A chilly country in the north (7) 11. Left ale as a 昀氀yer (7) 12. Raw din announced evolution (6) 13. This clue is strange (3) 15. Grab trail at the entrance to the Mediterranean (9) 17. Record compilation in a book (5) 19. Just a bit (5) 20. English architect and a French town are the home of country music (9) 22. A little beam of sunlight (3) 24. Fights with epees on the boundaries (6) 29. Runs and copes (70) 30. Neat leg is sophisticated (7) 31. Bold eskimo holds a rolltop (4) 32. Or pirates help one to breathe (10) DOWN 1. Ai in a sling going by boat (7) 2. Surplus again (4) 3. No-one in charge of this animal in 10 across (5) 4. The older tree could have a berry (5) 5. A sad grill when two get together for dances (9) 7. Shall one contain a greeting (5) 8. German city is mother to pans (7) 9. Airborne group is up a long way (3) 14. Can answer easily (4) 16. Home to Memphis and 20 across (9) 18. Sounds beautiful when it rings (4) 19. Pry amid a geometric 昀椀gure in Egypt (7) 21. Ring around the middle (7) 23. Tugs Americans (5) 25. Grow in scree perhaps or fawn (5) 26. A javelin made of pears (5) 27. A source of life in Eastern horse (3) 28. A little seasoning for a sailor (4) Nzira Travel Zimbabwe produces a bi-monthly travel magazine that is aimed at showcasing the beauty of the country and the various outstanding destinations that it has to offer. To subscribe to Nzira please send your details and payment to our Softrite of昀椀ces at 37 Victoria Drive, Newlands, Harare, or contact us on 024 2782720. Your issue will be delivered bi-monthly. Subscription costs are RTGS$290 for 6 issues. NZiRA Travel Magazine subscription, delivered to your door. SOLUTION ACROSS 1. Stonehenge 6. Ship 10. Iceland 11. Lea昀氀et 12. Darwin 13. Odd 15. Gibraltar 17. Album DOWN 1. Sailing 2. Over 3. Eland 4. Elder 5. Galliards 7. Hallo 8. Potsdam 9. RAF 14. Able 19. Piece 20. Nashville 22. Ray 24. Fences 29. Manages 30. Elegant 31. Desk 32. Respirator 16. Tennessee 18. Bell 19. Pyramid 21. Equator 23. Yanks 25. Creep 26. Spear 27. Egg 28. Salt Games
66 Aug/Sept 2019 The Bark of the Urban Baboon Article and Images MAFUNGI Border Bumpers e recently travelled the long and arduous journey down through our notorious border post Beitbridge to partake of the vicarious pleasures that the City of Gold, Johannesburg, can offer. Our reasons for going were not to shop, but to touch base with a daughter who had jetted out from the United Kingdom to see one of her cousins and lend emotional support to her family. Their second son, a sprog by every standard, had been diagnosed with a congenital health condition that none of us had ever even heard about, Hirschsrprung’s disease. Apparently, affected children, usually boys, struggle to pass stools. This is because nerve cells that control muscular contractions in the colon did not develop during pregnancy. The cure, massive surgery on the little tyke, requires affected parts of the colon to be cut out, re-join the bits and slowly clear the gunk that had accumulated. Post-operation, this leads to drip-feeding in the beginning and then slowly transition to natural foods to buildup all the functions. He owes his life to the protestors who took to the streets in January this year and the heavy-handed approach taken by our security services. The family was due to drive up to Harare from Victoria Falls but the civil unrest meant that they had to make another plan and 昀氀ying to Johannesburg was the only option. By chance a friend referred them to the high-end clinic near Sandton where South Africa’s top paediatricians and surgical teams that specialise in resolving this rearend condition are based. Not only that, but the mentor and original initiator of this team was visiting from New Zealand and he happened to have checked into the very same Bed and Breakfast where they stayed initially. A congruence of stars indeed. It will be a long haul, but now the youngster has every chance of making a near-normal life. It has been about 昀椀fteen years since we travelled this route to South Africa and I guess the biggest tragedy for Zimbabweans is to see just how massive has been the economic disruption of the last three decades or so. Our road system is in a shocking state and despite the enormous volume of traf昀椀c plying the road. Everything north of Beitbridge looks run down and decrepit, whereas once you cross the rickety bridge over the Limpopo, if your service centre, town or hostelry is not up to standard then you will not be in, nor attract, business very long. Huge heavily-laden trucks, carrying small piles of copper ingots, are amongst the most commonly seen vehicles. Surely such traf昀椀c should not be wrecking the road-systems from the Congo to the KwaZulu Coast and should be carried on the rail systems that were built over 120 years ago for just this task? One of the pleasurable things is to meet Zimbabweans from all walks of life that are now working and making a living south of our borders. Happy, smiling and hard-working. Somehow they endure the relentless pressure of a country that no longer welcomes them, nor us as tourists, and makes it very clear by the way we are handled at the border. However, the malls and shopping opportunities are as good in Musina as anywhere else in the Great Boerewors Republic. Service station employees lure you in to buy fuel that they all stock without fail, 昀椀x punctures and, in our case, they found a folder of essential documents for the vehicle that my dearly-beloved had left on a counter. They kept it in a strongroom on the off-chance that we would return and when we passed back through that facility they gave it to us, saving our marriage de昀椀nitely, and endless hassle at a border that makes travel dif昀椀cult even when you do have everything to hand. On the positive side, the Zimbabwean of昀椀cials and systems seem to work better than those across the river but maybe that is because our of昀椀cials are pleased to see more of us go and amazed that some even do come back! Or perhaps, cynically, paying rand for duty required and getting a receipt indicating rtgs dollars is a clear indicator that the door of arbitrage is always open a crack. We even went to watch a game of rugby and solved a conundrum that had plagued me ever since I learnt to speak, read and write the English language. I 昀椀nally know the meaning of “sound-bite”. We were lucky on that balmy Saturday afternoon and the Emirates Lions gave their opposition from the Highlands of New Zealand a bit of a drubbing. Rare occasion indeed. W NZ RA Bark of the Urban Baboon
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