شهرپرواز شماره ۲

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  The Flight of the Phoenix  friend’s. After the in-flight meal is Cinematograph
served, several of the passengers
The Aviator  The Flight of the Phoenix describes and flight crew fall ill and Dr.
the story of a small group of men Rumack (Leslie Nielsen) discovers
The Aviator is a costly ($110 million) struggling to survive their aircraft›s one of the offered courses (fish)
2004 epic biographical film directed emergency landing in the Sahara caused food poisoning. With
by Martin Scorsese about Howard Desert. Captain Frank Towns the pilot and his assistance
Hughes, the director, producer, has been sent to finish a mission incapacitated, someone should
legendary multi-millionaire and and transport the staff. A sudden take control of the plane. This
an aviation pioneer. Hughes loved sandstorm disables the engines on comedy is written and directed by
aviation and thus spent all the the way to Beijing forcing them to David and Jerry Zucker and Jim
fortune he had inherited from his have an emergency landing. They Abrahams. 
father on cinematic productions are 200 miles away from a water
and building a giant airplane. At 25, reservoir which will only take a month H-3 Airstrike
he created one of the Hollywood to finish. They finally come to the
blockbusters named Hell›s decision that the only way out is to The Iranian film is about a surprise
Angels (1930). His pathological build a new plane from the scrap air attack by the Iranian Air Force
perfectionism and a severe case of parts of the old one. It was produced during the Iran-Iraq War against
obsessive-compulsive disorder led and directed by Robert Aldrich and the airbases of the Iraqi Air Force
him to decide to build the biggest based on the 1964 novel The Flight at the H-3 Air Base in western
airplane in history which resulted of the Phoenix by Elleston Trevor. A Iraq. The attack (also known as
in the plane›s fall and his disgrace. new version of the film was made by ‘Attack of the Phantoms’) was one
He spent the last years of his life in John Moore in 2004.  of the most complicated and also
a small dark room and hid from the extensive airstrikes of the world.
public.  Airplane!  Iraq Air Force had relocated a large
part of the military equipment and
The whole satirical story is narrated weaponry and valuable assets to
up in the air along with maybe the the farthest point from its land in
audience who can’t really sit still three airbases in H-3 region 50
as a result of all the laughter this kilometers from Jordan to protect
great comedy brings about! Some the strategic aircraft from attacks
people hate the movie because by Iran. Military pilots of the Islamic
of its influence on all the funny Republic of Iran could destroy al-
imitations of the last three decades. Walid airbases in total radio silence
However, the film’s reputation grew by getting each phantom refueled
substantially after its release and is four times from the tankers at a
now considered one of the greatest high altitude. It was the first time
comedies of all time. Ex-fighter that aerial refueling was done
pilot Ted Striker (Robert Hays) is a in the world, something which
traumatized war veteran who has was impossible even in the most
grown a pathological fear of flying. advanced countries of the world.
In order to win his friend back, he The film H-3 Airstrike, directed by
buys a ticket on the same flight as his Shahriyar Bahrani in 1994, depicts
this operation. 

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Simorgh

Festival 

It is no accident that the title of the most prestigious Iranian film festival is Simurgh.
Simurgh (which literally means ‘thirty birds’) is a bird in Iranian mythology and
literature (sometimes equated with other mythological birds such as phoenix) as a
symbol of unity or perfection. It is said that once all the birds of the world gathered
to decide who is to be their king. The wisest of them, hoopoe, suggested they go
find the legendary Simurgh. In the end, there remained only thirty of them that could
reach the Qaf Mountain, the dwelling place of Simurgh. All they could find was a
lake in which they saw their own reflection which is a pun on the Persian expression
for ‘thirty birds’. Therefore, we get on the wings of this legendary bird to go watch
the artworks that are a reflection of the free imagination of their artists. This is the
Simurgh Festival. 

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The Great Iranian poet, Ferdowsi, owes his masterpiece, Shahnameh, to an unknown woman who was his Frame
wife. There are some conjectures that the wife is the same woman referred to in the introduction to the tale
of Bijan and Manijeh in Shahnameh: a woman who was both literate and able to play the harp. One night
Ferdowsi was trying to go to sleep in the garden adjoining his house. He woke his wife up and asked for help.
The woman told him, “I tell you a story from the ancient books which includes fight and celebration, love and
hostility and rife with the tale of wise cunning men. You’ll be astonished by the deceitful plays of the fate”.
Ferdowsi asked her to immediately tell him the story, but his wife hinged it on a condition: that he’d retell the
story in poetry. 

The first story he versified was the romance of Bijan adequately and didn’t send him a generous payment. 
and Manijeh which Ferdowsi wrote five years before
he decided to create Shahnameh. When faced The poet expresses his vexation about Mahmud’s
with his friends and companions’ admirations, he reaction at the beginning of the story of Khosrow
prepared himself for writing Shahnameh. He first and Shirin: 
took trips to Bukhara, Balkh, Marv, and Herat to
gather the necessary content. He visited Makh, the No one could ever see such a book all in Persian 
Khorasani wise man, in Herat and heard the story
about Hormoz about him. He found the story about Such a great book wouldn’t actually contain a lousy
Shaghad in Marv, and in Balkh, he found out how line but a few
Khosrow Parviz was arrested. 
Such a great generous king
Ferdowsi radically needed a sponsor in order to who begrudgingly deprived
launch the big project of writing Shahnameh without my book of his full attention 
having to worry about money. He, fortunately,
benefited from the support of a magnanimous The disappointed poet wrote
sponsor whose name is absent in the book and is a scathing satire about
only referred to as ‹the great man›.  Sultan and fled Ghazneyn to
Tabarestan, Mazandaran and
At 58, the poet goes through some transformations then Baghdad and wondered
which accompany some other problems such as for years till he returned
poverty. We can only assume that his ‘great man’ to his hometown, Tus. It
might have died this year. Eight or ten years later, a was when Sultan Mahmud
tragedy befell him to make him leave his hometown, regretted his early behavior
Tus. He was 65 when his only son died.  and intended to compensate
for the inadequate payment.
I was sixty-five and he was thirty-seven / he He ordered to send a big
abandoned me without caring about me caravan from Ghazneyn
to Tus to take Sultan’s gift
He was young and brash / was outraged and left me  to Ferdowsi. However, the
day the Sultan’s caravan
Did you find young companions / that you suddenly entered Tus, Ferdowsi’s
left me alone?  corpse was being taken to
the cemetery from the same
Ferdowsi went to Ghazneyn to Sultan Mahmud of gates. Then, they took the
Ghazni’s court and recited his story of Rostam and gift to Ferdowsi’s daughter
Esfandiar for the king. The king praised him and who rejected it because it was
said, “Many thanks to you who turned our place actually like a medication after
into heaven!” Ferdowsi stayed there until he was the patient was dead (what
71. He had pleasant relations with Sultan Mahmud. had happened to Sohrab, one
However, the Sultan didn’t compensate Ferdowsi of Shahnameh’s heroes). 

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Frame105

A Medication after

the Patient was Dead

(On the occasion
of Abulqasem
Ferdowsi’s
birthday on 20
January)

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106

of a weaver and then represented in the form of rug motifs, and the rug Souvenir
warp and woof manifest and immortalize cultural, artistic and ideological
essence of the Turkmen people. 

Influenced by the climate and environment and their tribal lifestyle, the
Turkmen have a simple mindset and an immediate understanding of life,
but they have manifested this simplicity in the form of most complicated
designs. The most complicated
forms in the Turkmen rug are
biological forms, while they are
considered the most idealistic
Turkmen motifs at the same
time.

These motifs are a portrayal of
the ideals of the Turkmen folk to
live in a vast natural landscape,
in the interior of the houses with
a circular architecture (Alachigh)
as the symbol of infinity. The
motif of Alachigh (similar to
a yurt and originating from
Iran, it is still used by nomadic
Shahsavan tribe) in the Turkmen
rug has never been particularly
distinctive, but numerous
diverse circles and motifs and
patterns similar to Alachigh in
the Turkmen rug represent the
Turkmen women’s different
conception in their surrounding
homeland. 

Finally, Turkmen people rug
weaving is directly related to
the surrounding nature, and the
environment and nature are
the origins of artistic creativity
among these people. The
representation of Turkmen rug
motifs is nothing more than a
study of the association between
the natural symbols among the
people and the relationship between the Turkmen women’s subjective
architecture with their surrounding nature, and this can act as a general
rule for performing further studies on the Turkmen rug. 

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Souvenir Rug weaving among the Turkmen, like all Iranian Yamuts are skilled rug weavers and weave valuable
nomads, has always been a tradition. The theory handcrafts artistically, and their woven handicrafts
that has long been confirmed is that the Turkmens are the most valuable ones. The next distinguished
considered their rugs as objects of pure use without tribe skilled in rug weaving is JaefarBaay. This is
artistic value. However, they reconsidered this a group of Teke Turkmen Tribes who entered Iran
attitude later. A period began when the Turkmens following the Russian Revolution and have long
became cognizant of the value of their artistic woven the best Turkmen rugs. 
handicrafts, and then this valuable art was taken into
account as an interchangeable commodity. Their double-wefted rugs are woven with Turkish
After Tsarist Russian seized the area, Turkmen rugs knit. Sometimes, the rug weavers choose the warps
used by the Tsarist government quickly fascinated and rarely the entire rug fibers from the silk material.
the Russian aristocracy. The rugs were then taken They do not sell their precious woven works,
keeping them traditionally as their daughters’ dowry.
to Russia by Russian merchants who accustomed to Iranian Turkmen rugs are denser than Russian rugs
attend the Turkmen lands. The Europeans, cognizant and are woven on horizontal devices. 
of the Turkmen rugs in Russia, were also charmed
and fascinated. After the October Revolution in Some of the well-known designs crafted by these
Russia and subsequent years, a transformation tribes include Turkmen Gashoghy, Turkmen Akhal
occurred in Turkmen rug weaving, rug weaving or Ghazal Eye Design, and Four Seasons Design
industry was constructed, and Turkmen rug was specific to Teke tribes’ weavers. Turkmen double-
woven for export purposes. faced silk rug is another type of rug in this area,
Turkmen, composed of various tribes, each had which is considered as a work of art in terms of
their own rug motifs originating from their taste and technique, elegance, motifs, composition, and color.
talent, and their rug names were taken from the This rug belongs to the Turkmen village Doydookh
tribe where they were woven. In the meantime, in Raaz and Jargalan County in northern Khorasan
province, and nowadays 80% of this type of rug is
exported abroad.
The color spectrum is limited in the Turkmen rug.
The limited colors were used in the Turkmen rug
in the past including white, black, dark green, dark
lacquer. These old colors gradually increased by
12 colors, and grey, cinnamon, brown, light brown,
dark brown, golden, peach, and blue sky colors
were added to the list. 
In the past, most Turkmen desert wools were
painted by natural paints. However, today, some
chemical paints are also used there. 
Geometric patterns used in the Turkmen rug motifs
are of significance, and alongside the weaving, such
patterns are also applied in decorative works, prayer
frames, flower collars, and even stone carvings, and
sheep-shearing.  
Among the inhabitants of this area, the sound of
dangling movement of nomadic tribes, the sound
of water and wind and tempest, the sound of rug
weavers and fishermen, the laughter and the cries
of children, and the chants of men and women, are
comingled with feelings, wishes, and subjectivity

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The Turkmen rug history is a reflection of the history of these
people and the narration of the Turkmen rug history is not an
exception to the rule as no one can present a completely accurate
narration of the history of tribes. It is difficult to determine the
exact time of the Turkmen’s initiation of rug weaving, and opinions
held by scholars on the issue is also very different. The fact is
that the existence of rug motifs and designs such as the Turkmen
octagons reveal the long history of this art among the Turkmen
people. Marco Polo, an Italian traveler, in describing his voyage to
East Asia, appreciates the Turkmen horses, and more importantly,
the elegant and beautiful rugs. 

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ALIVE
CARPET

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Around the World

The Church of Colònia Güell is also an On one of the June days of 1926,
unfinished work by Gaudi. The construction of Gaudi was taking his daily walk to
the oval-shaped church started in 1898 and the Sant Felip Neri church for his
lasted for 16 years.  habitual prayer and confession when
he was struck by a tram and lost
The Cascada waterfall, Casa Calvet, Park consciousness. He was taken to a
Güell and the Güell Pavilions are some of hospital and died five days later. He
Gaudi’s other notable works.  was buried in the crypt of the Sagrada
But, Gaudi’s real masterpiece is his last work Familia with a large crowd gathered
the Church of Sagrada Familia. He spent the to bid farewell to him. The church
last 15 years of his life working on this project has now entered its final phase of
and finally died and left it unfinished.  construction and is scheduled for
completion in 2026. 

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Around the World111

La Rambla Street  Nouveau in the broadest sense. Using
La Rambla is a street in central Barcelona. It is flowing sculpted stonework decorated with
also called Las Ramblas which is derived from a colorful mosaic made of broken ceramic
the Arabic word ‘raml’ meaning sand or sand tiles and flower fence. 
beach of the river. 
The course of La Rambla was originally a However, La Pedrera (Casa Milà) is regarded
sewage-filled stream leading to outside the as Antoni Gaudi’s most iconic work of
walls of the Gothic neighborhood, usually civic architecture due its constructional
dry but an important drain for the heavy and functional innovations. The building
rainwater flowing from the hills during spring looks more like a sculpture than a private
and autumn. Early eighteenth century, residence. The stone façade, twisting
construction started on an extension of the wrought-iron balconies are the first features
city walls and a century later the street found catching the eyes of any passer-by. 
the appearance it has today. La Rambla gets
crowded, especially during the height of the
tourist season. Walking on this street with
pavement cafés and souvenir kiosks is very
delightful. The street is lined with various
vendors and some of the most popular shops
in Barcelona. Several notable sights are also
located within the promenade, including a
mosaic by Joan Miró and the Christopher
Columbus Monument. 

Dream Architect 
Barcelona owes much of its attraction to
Antoni Gaudi because it is characterized by
many of Gaudi’s modern unusual buildings
and designs from his main work, the church
of the Sagrada Familia to the Park Güell
mosaic work or Casa Milà. 
Casa Vicens was one of Gaudi›s first
important projects built in five years from
1883 to 1888. It is considered one of the
first buildings of Art Nouveau built with
broken mosaic and ceramic tiles for a
wealthy ceramic factory owner. 
Casa Batlló is actually a 1904 remodeling
of a previous built house. Like everything
Gaudi designed, Casa Batlló is only
identifiable as Modernism or Catalan Art

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112Around the World
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113

A WOUND NAMED
CORNADA 

Around the World In the fifteenth century, Ferdinand II the king of Aragon joint sovereign with
Queen Isabella I in order to unite the Spanish kingdoms into the nation of Spain;
this way, Catalonia became a part of Spain and remained that way until the 19th
century when they thought of going independent again and did a lot to protect
and promote their Catalan culture. Since the 1930s, the region found more power
under the republican regime; however, the Dictator General Franco’s nationalist
army opposed the extension of autonomy to Catalonia and the Basque Country. 

However, Catalonia is still in conflict these cornadas which means horn-wounds
with Spain and is like a stepson who in Spanish. 
is always looking for an opportunity
to separate himself from the reluctant Finally, bullfighting was banned in the
step-father. In time, the conflict found Spanish autonomous community of
public and social aspects as well and the Catalonia by a vote of the Catalan
two sides sent their representatives to Parliament in 2011 and the great bullring
the field: blue and red Barcelona against shut down. However, the Constitutional
the white Real Madrid team. They don’t Court of Spain overturned the ban against
compete just to be the champion of La bullfighting in 2016 saying that they cannot
Liga; their conflict represents a more prohibit a practice that was enshrined in the
serious one in the history of Spain and cultural patrimony of the Spanish state. But
Catalonia in the green battlefield.  the Monumental ring is still closed down. 

There was a time when Barcelona Human towers 
fans were bullfighting supporters and
idolized José Tomás (one of the greatest If you travel to Barcelona between May
matadors) instead of Lionel Messi. and November, you may get lucky to see
The Plaza Monumental de Barcelona the tradition of making human towers of
which is the main bullring in the city of possibly 17 meters in Saint James Square.
Barcelona, Catalonia, was inaugurated Sometimes, the tower-makers aren’t that
in 1914. The greatest matadors of Spain lucky and their tower fall down which may
performed in this arena what was called lead to some casualties. 
torero bullfighting. This is a physical
contest involving a man with a red cloth A castell is a human tower built with 10
and an animal with sharp horns! They levels of people standing on one another’s
would fight to a point where one of them shoulder. As the levels go higher fewer
is forced to leave the contest (usually men stand on each level until the last level
be getting killed). The injuries sustained which consists of only one person; climbing
during the fights were so serious and to the top of the tower is only allowed
the gores were so deep that a special for kids because of their low weight. The
type of surgeon was developed to treat foundation of the tower consists of a dozen
men. These towers are usually made during
competitions which will be one by the group
with a taller tower. 

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80 km north of Shahdad city in Lut Desert (Kerman Zandiyeh-Qajar architecture. The majestic structure is Iran Tourist Guide
Province) there are hills of 480 square kilometers now used as a tea-house serving tea, ice-cream and
covered with dark lava (with no volcano in the vicinity); different kinds of beverages to people. 
it is considered one of the hottest and driest places
in the world with no sign of life. The place is called Gonbad e Jabalieh or Rock Dome, also known as the
Gandom Beryan (scorched wheat) or Rig Sukhte Gabri Dome, is located in east Kerman near Pardisan
(burnt gravel).  Park. The architectural effects of the construction were
inspired by those of the Sassanid period. There have
Gandom Beryan is a plateau covered with dark basalt been some discussions over the possible function of
lava which in turn makes the plateau even hotter. Rig the building in the past. Some believe that it was a fire
Sukhte is the shallowest spot in the country which also temple for Zoroastrians and some claim that it actually
results in the high temperature. Winter or early spring used to be a Zoroastrian tomb or merely a dome-house. 
is the best time of the year to visit this hell down on
earth.   Jame’ Mosque of Kerman or Mozaffari Jame’ Mosque
is one of the four-veranda mosques with a high portal,
However, whoever travels to Kerman feels compelled huge yard and prayer hall. The mosque was built during
to visit Ganjali Khan Bathhouse. Ganjali Khan was a the reign of Amir Mubariz al-Din Mohammad Mozaffar
military officer in Safavid Iran and also a loyal governor of the Mosaffarids. The east portal of the mosque
to Shah Abbas I and a great builder. Reportedly, was destroyed by the canons fired by the order of
certain groups in Kerman protested in the mid-1600s Aqa Mohammad Khan Qajar and then repaired. The
against the hostile treatment by the local authorities beautiful tile-works of the altar and eastern portal are of
and accused Ganjali Khan of mistreating them. this the most remarkable features of the mosque. 
made Shah Abbas travel to Kerman to investigate the
matter where he found that Ganjali Khan was not the At the foot of the Teygran Mountains near Kerman, we
real perpetrator. He questioned people and scrutinized can see the epitome of an Iranian garden called Shazdeh
the authorities for three whole days to make sure of Garden (the Prince’s Garden) which was built for
Ganjali Khan’s honesty and then returned.  Mohammad Hassan Khan Sardar Irvani, Kerman’s ruler
during the Qajar period. Shazdeh Garden is one of the
Ganjali Khan got informed of Shah’s visit and his return nine Iranian gardens recorded in the UNESCO World
and went after him to Isfahan. He got to him on the Heritage list. 
way to Isfahan and asked him to visit Kerman again.
Shah declined and answered that “Here is Shah’s Finally, we get to Arg e Bam, the largest adobe building
Kerman. Build a caravanserai in this place and name it in the world located in Bam, Kerman Province. The
Kermanshah.” Ganjali Khan ordered the construction origin of this huge citadel on the Silk Road can be traced
of a caravanserai in that place which was known as back to the Achaemenid Empire (fifth century BC).
Kermanshah.  The citadel was used until 1850. The whole structure
is an enormous citadel with a smaller fort (arg) in the
One of his finest and most durable achievements was middle. However, since the arg is the highest and most
The Ganjali Khan Complex; this Safavid-era building astounding building of this structure, the whole thing is
complex which is located in the old center of Kerman called Arg. 
is composed of a bathhouse, a bazaar, a mint, a water
reservoir, caravanserai, a school, and a mosque. The Kerman is largely known for its pistachio and
square is in an oblong shape gathering a series of the person cumin, but it would be very remiss of
remarkable elements of the city. The bathhouse is now us not to mention famous delicious sweets
the museum of anthropology and the mint is currently such as komach, kolompeh, qottab, qovatu and
the coin museum.  faludeh which are usually accompanied with
Kermani people’s delightful hospitality. 
Vakil Bathhouse doesn’t belong only to Shiraz. There’s
also a Vakil Bathhouse in Kerman dating back to

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Iran Tourist Guide115

KERMAN:

CITY OF BURNING
GRAVELS 

What we mainly remember when we think of Kerman is Khwaju
Kermani’s mystical poems, Hooshang Moradi Kermani’s sweet stories,
the legendary voice of Iraj Bastami and the magic of Ruhollah Khaleghi’s
violin. Kerman has long been known to be the city of Kariman (the
generous people) by many historians, writers, and travelers. The city
is also known for its beautiful ditched deserts, wavy dunes and starry
nights; one can’t get their eyes off of the shiny carpet of the sky. 

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Explorer

115 Iran Tourist Guide | 113 Around the World | 109 Souvenir | 105 Frame | 103 Cinematograph

INDEX Explorer Iran Tourist Guide

Concessionaire: TakeOff 115 Kerman: City of Burning Gravels
Imam Khomeini Airport City
Managing Director: Around the World
Imam Khomeini Airport City Company
Editor-in-Chief: Ali Kashani Heidari 113 A Wound Named Cornada 
Under Board of Imam Khomeini Airport
Public Relations Office Souvenir
Editorial Secretary: Abolfazl Ghazi
Tel: (+98) 21 51 00 80 20 109 Alive Carpet

Frame

105 A Medication after the Patient was Dead 

Cinematograph

103 Simorgh Festival 

Runway

99 Taxi to Sky!

95 Air Traffic Control Tower
The Largest Starfish in the World

91 Gadget Café
All Alone, any where

The Savvy Traveler

85 The Best Airplane Seats 

Flight City Flight Manual

81 Customs Regulations

for Departing Passengers Goods and Currencies In IKA

79 Orange Is the New Black

72 Rout Map

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C  The Shadowless

OMMANDER

During the last days of his life, he wrote to his Years after the end of Iran-Iraq war, there
wife, “I’ve specified where to be buried in the came a time for General Soleimani to be finally
Martyrs Cemetery in Kerman … I ask you appointed to a position he rightfully deserved: the
to choose a very simple grave for me and commandership of the Quds Forces of the Islamic
simply write ‘Soldier Qasem Soleimani’ on Revolutionary Guard Corps (IRGC). The Quds
my tombstone as it is on my martyr friends’ Forces found a new form with Sardar Soleimani.
tombstones; I don’t want any titles to accompany His presence in both Afghanistan and Iraq and
my name.”  fighting with fundamental and Takfiri groups such
as ISIS put his name in the headlines of news
These were the last words of a man who was all over the world: a man with white hair and a
ashamed of putting any title next to his name. He determined face. He was called the ‘Shadow
called himself a soldier since he used to go to war General’ in the West and ‘the strongest undercover
like simple soldiers and fight with the enemies officer in the Middle East’ by CIA. Yet, he still
eye to eye. He had had this enemy-fighting considered himself a simple soldier when he went
spirit for two years before the Islamic Revolution to Syria. 
when he had recently joined the revolutionary
forces. At the time, he made acquaintance with It took him only 72 hours to be directly put in
a clergyman named Ayatollah Khamenei; they charge of the battlefield and free all the areas
became friends and their friendship lasted till occupied by the ISIS. He wasn’t only the Iranian
now.  people’s hero but the Syrians’. He turned into a
trans-national figure. 
When the Ba’ath Regime of Iraq invaded Iran,
he was the commander of the Qods Garrison Finally, his last day on earth came along and this
in Kerman. He used to train battalions of young ever-living martyr answered to his God’s invitation:
soldiers, turn them into professional fighters and “Almighty God, please accept me; I can’t wait to
set out to the front lines ahead of them.  meet you, the same visit that made the Prophet
Moses too weak to stand or breathe.”