fashion-dictionary-sample1

The Fairchild

Dictionary
of Fashion

third edition
cd-rom
charlotte mankey calasibetta
phyllis tortora

Illustrated by bina abling

fairchild books
new york

hardcover book: cd-rom:

Executive Editor: Olga T. Kontzias Executive Editor: Olga T. Kontzias
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All rights reserved. No part of this book covered by the
copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form ISBN: 978-1-56367-973-5
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CONTENTS

CD-ROM Instructions iv
Preface to the Third Edition iv

A3 3 H 218 Q 384
academic costume hair accessories 218
activewear 5 hairstyles 219 R 385
aprons 14 handbags 228
armor 16 headwear 236 S 393
hosiery 269 scarves 396
shirts 403
B 21 I 276 shorts 410
belts 29 shoulders and sleeves 412
blouses and tops 34 skirts 420
braids 43 sleepwear and loungewear 426
J 281 sweaters 439
C 50 jewelry 283 swimwear 442
capes, cloaks, and shawls 52 jumpers 295
clerical dress 71 T 446
closures 75 K 297 ties 450
clothing construction details 79
coats and jackets 85 L 301 U 461
cuffs 119 laces 301 umbrellas and parasols 461
leathers 309 undergarments 462
lengths 314
V 476
D 122 vests 477

E 134 M 320
embroideries and sewing stitches 136 masks 323
eyewear 149
N 334
necklines and collars 335 W 481
waistlines 481
F 152 O 349 watches 483
fans 154 wigs and hairpieces
feathers 156 P 353 487
footwear 163 pants 354
furs 188 plaids and tartans 368 X, Y, Z 493
pockets 371
G 198 prints, stripes, and checks 377 Appendix: Designers 497
gems, gem cuts, and settings 200 References 521
gloves and glove construction 210

cd-rom instructions

To search for a specific word or phrase, first click searched for word or phrase highlighted.
on any alphabet letter located in the left-hand
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preface to the third edition

Origins of the Fairchild Dictionary of Fashion of historical terms and some of the vocabu-
lary of clothing manufacturers rounded out
This third edition of The Fairchild Dictionary of the entries.
Fashion stands on the foundation of two previous
editions that were originated and developed by The second edition added approximately 1,700
Charlotte Mankey Calasibetta. Since 1975, the entries and 11 more categories. In 1998 a revised
work has served as an invaluable reference for stu- second edition was published that included an
dents, scholars, authors, designers, those in the appendix containing not only fashion terms new
fashion business, and anyone with an interest in since the previous edition, but also terms used in
fashion past and present. Professor Calasibetta’s the manufacture, merchandising, and distribution
description of how she created the first edition will of apparel; entries describing types of retail organi-
provide insight into the formidable task that she zations; and business terms relating to the fashion
undertook: industry.

This dictionary evolved from a college course The Third Edition
in fashion. In an attempt to teach students a Categories
vocabulary of fashion terms that would not
become outdated, lists were assembled of col- The third edition preserves what is best of the
lars, necklines, sleeves, skirts, and so on, and earlier editions, but a number of changes make the
each was considered in the light of the exist- book even more comprehensive and useful. One of
ing fashion trends—which were “in,” and the strengths of the dictionary has been the organi-
which were “out.” The basic categories for this zation of entries into categories. A reader who is
dictionary grew from these lists. The addition interested in a definition of a “peg-top skirt,” for

v Preface to the Third Edition alphabetical entries. As a means of eliminating this
repetition, the entries contained in these aforemen-
example, will find that entry in the Skirts category tioned categories have been placed in the alphabeti-
and can compare that definition with those for cal listing.
other types of skirts. Illustrations of a variety of
skirt types also appear with the category, allowing Kinds of Words Defined in the Dictionary
for visual comparisons.
Contemporary Fashion Terms
Should readers not know the category into which As in the earlier editions, a major focus is fashion
an item fits, they can consult the alphabetical list- terms currently in use and those that tend to be
ing, where a cross-reference will direct them to the revived periodically. Fashion designers often derive
appropriate location. inspiration from the past, and words from earlier
decades and even previous centuries may still be in
In past editions, however, some categories tended use. For many of the entries, the derivation of the
to overlap other categories and/or entries in the term is noted.
alphabetical listing. After careful analysis of the
categories, the author and editors of this edition Fashion Terms from Non-Western Cultures
have merged some, discarded others, and added a and Folk Costume
few new categories. For example, prior editions had The focus of this dictionary is fashion in the
separate categories for SHOES, BOOTS, SANDALS, and Western world. To be comprehensive and cover non-
SLIPPERS. In this edition, the more general category Western apparel would require a book far larger
of footwear now contains all of the aforemen- than this one. For these reasons, non-Western apparel
tioned types of foot coverings. The categories of terms are defined only if they have become part of
COATS and of JACKETS had a considerable amount of Western fashion or have some current importance.
duplication, and so the two categories have been Folk costume terms are included only if they are
merged into one called COATS AND JACKETS. The used in mainstream fashion.
table of contents provides a complete list of the
categories utilized in this edition. Historic Fashion Terms
Another important aspect of earlier editions has
Another change is in the transfer of historical been the inclusion of historic fashion terms. His-
terms from the alphabetical listing to the appro- toric terms that are no longer in current usage are
priate category. If a historical term, for example, designated by a special archival symbol, an infinity
“hennin” (a type of hat), clearly fits into a category, symbol (∞), as in the following example:
it is placed there. Readers will now find “hennin” in
the category of HEADWEAR. Andalusian casaque ∞ (an-da-loó-zee-an cask)
Woman’s evening tunic, fastened down center
Exceptions to this practice include garments that with series of ribbons, with the front of the skirt
may be similar to modern garments in their func- cut away, and sloping to knee-length in the back.
tion, but different in construction, that were worn Worn over another skirt c. 1809.
before the categorical heading term was used. For
example, the category heading PANTS is a relatively Several unique aspects of historic terms should
recent term that came into use only in the 19th c. be noted. One of these is spelling. Before the pub-
Trunk hose, a 16th c. garment for men, differed lication of standardized dictionaries in English in
in form and shape from 19th and 20th c. pants, the 18th and 19th c., spelling could be quite erratic.
although they both served as lower body coverings. For example, a popular hair and wig style of the
Such terms are listed separately in the alphabetical 18th c. can be spelled cadogan, catogan, or catagan.
listing. Likewise, the category BLOUSES AND TOPS
does not include those items designated as “bodices”
or other upper-body coverings that were worn
before the term “blouse” became widely used in the
second half of the 19th c.

dresses, looks, and suits are examples of cate-
gories that contained a number of duplications of

Medieval terms, some of which derive from English Preface to the Third Edition vi
and others from French, tend to have many spelling
variations. Those with Latin roots tend to be more Fashion Designers
stable. Previous editions of the Dictionary of Fashion have
included an appendix of fashion designers and
Dictionary users will find many fashion ele- discussion of their work. In the present edition,
ments from the 19th century that are named after that appendix has been reduced, so as to provide
royalty or famous persons of the past. As fashion more space for new fashion entries, and now pro-
changes accelerated and periodicals provided more vides only a brief biographical note about each
coverage of fashions, there was a tendency to assign designer. A very thorough examination of the life
names to styles. Also, costume historians and other and work of important fashion designers past and
writers of the 19th c. originated many names for present is to be found in the Fairchild publication,
styles of earlier centuries. Where possible, defini- Who’s Who in Fashion, 3rd edition. Names of fash-
tions of such terms will incorporate a brief expla- ion designers listed in the appendix are included
nation of who the historical personage was or note in the alphabetical listing and are designated by an
that a particular term was coined at a time long asterisk (*).
after the costume was worn.
Dior, Christian * See APPENDIX/DESIGNERS.
Merchandising and Retailing Terms
Fashion design, production, and marketing terms Limitations on Entries Included in the Dictionary
were introduced in the revised 2nd edition in an
appendix. These and additional entries have been In any book, space imposes some limits on content.
incorporated into the alphabetical listing. The terms The following are some of the kinds of terms not
included are those with specific application to some included in this work. Definitions of colors have
segment of the fashion industry. General business been eliminated because the author and editors felt
terms are not included. that it is virtually impossible to define a color; it
must be shown.
Textile Terms
The number of textile terms has decreased signifi- As previously noted, non-Western apparel terms
cantly in this edition. Entries have been limited to and folk costume terms are included only if they
some basic textile terms, to standard textiles that have become part of Western fashion. Foreign terms
continue to be widely used, and to new textile do not appear unless they are used in English in
materials that have had a recent impact on fashion. fashion or scholarship about fashion. Foreign words
Those textile terms that have been retained are used in English in a fashion context are included.
identified by a dagger (†).
Weapons (e.g., swords, daggers, guns) are not
angora † Soft fuzzy yarn made from the under- included, even when carried ceremonially. Regis-
hair of the angora rabbit that is used for knit- tered trademark names have been eliminated, in-
wear and for trimmings. sofar as that is possible. The constant addition and
deregistration of trademarks makes it very difficult
Since the publication of the 2nd edition of Fair- to include such entries and be both up-to-date and
child’s Dictionary of Fashion, a new edition of the accurate. Some trademarks, however, are so signifi-
Fairchild Dictionary of Textiles has been issued. That cant to fashion that they must be included.
work provides comprehensive listings of textile
terms, both contemporary and historic, and users Illustrations
who require a more complete definition of textile
terms are advised to consult that work. The Fairchild Dictionary of Fashion includes 800
drawings, all new, illustrating fashion terms. When
an entry is illustrated at some other place in the
book, a notation is made of where that illustration
can be found.

vii Preface to the Third Edition not accepted on U.S. public beaches until the
early 1960s. By the 1980s these suits became still
Format and Organization of Definitions smaller and a number of variations had devel-
oped. These were: string bikini, consisting of a
The following entries will serve to illustrate the minimal halter bra with bikini panties, worn low
organization and format features of the third edi- on hips, and made of two triangular-shaped
tion of The Fairchild Dictionary of Fashion. pieces attached to an elastic band or string ties;
teardrop bikini, made up of bikini pants worn
abilements/abillements See BILLIMENTS. with a bra composed of two tiny triangles with
straps at neck and around the body; tankini
Entries are printed in boldface. Where more than (tan2-kee-nee), a woman’s bathing suit with a
one spelling is current, alternate spellings are placed tank top and a bikini bottom; corset bikini, a top
behind a slash in the main entry. Cross-references that looks like an underwire bra and a bikini
are in small caps. This cross-reference is to an entry bottom; camikini, with a camisole top and a
in the alphabetical listing. bikini bottom. 2. Man’s very brief swim trunks.

baseball cap See HEADWEAR. In some entries, closely related terms are defined
within the definition of the primary entry. Such
When an entry in the alphabetical listing is to be terms also serve as primary entries and are printed
found in a category under the same name as the in boldface type. When an entry has more than one
entry, the category alone is cross-referenced and definition, each definition for the entry is preceded
the term can be found in that category. If the term by a number in boldface.
is a synonym or is defined within another entry, it is
listed as follows: babushka (bah-boosh2-ka) Triangular-shaped
scarf or square folded diagonally, worn draped
cadogan net See HEADWEAR: SNOOD. over the head and tied under the chin in the
manner of Russian peasant woman. Der. Russian,
ACADEMIC COSTUME “grandmother.” So-called because it was worn by
older Russian immigrants to the United States.
Outfits consisting of caps, called mortar- Also called a kerchief.
boards (see ACADEMIC COSTUME: MORTARBOARD);
gowns; . . . Also called academic regalia. When derivations for entries are given, they are
placed at the end of the entry and preceded by Der.
Category headings are printed in capital letters.
They are set off from the alphabetical text by bor- bandeau (ban-doe2)
ders. Cross-references to items in categories are
printed in small caps, with the category given Pronunciation of the entry, rendered phonetically,
first, followed by a colon, and the individual entry follows the main entry. It is printed in nonbold
listed after the colon. Synonyms are printed in typeface and is placed inside parentheses. Pronun-
italics. Any cross-reference that does not include a ciations are not provided for all terms, but are given
category designation will be found in the alphabeti- when pronunciations may not be obvious to the
cal listing. user. These phonetic renderings are, at best, approxi-
mations of the actual pronunciation. Many are for-
bikini 1. Two-piece swimsuit introduced in 1946 eign language words that are nearly impossible to
by designer Jacques Heim, who called it the interpret phonetically. So all terms are rendered in
atom because of its small size. Soon after, a ver- the closest phonetic equivalent in the way that an
sion was advertised as “smaller than the atom.” English-speaker would pronounce the syllables. The
Eventually the name was changed to bikini after
Bikini Atoll, a small coral island in the Pacific
where atomic tests were made from 1946 to
1956. Bikinis were worn on Riviera beaches, but

accent mark shown in any pronunciation is given Preface to the Third Edition viii
after the syllable that should be emphasized.
was ready and able to locate a basis for elusive
Acknowledgments illustrations.

Many individuals assisted in the preparation of this I offer my special thanks to the staff of Fairchild
new edition of The Fairchild Dictionary of Fashion. Books. Olga Kontzias, Executive Editor, worked
I would like to thank them for the expertise they through the steps necessary to get the new edition
brought to the project. started and provided input to and evaluation of
reorganization ideas. Mary McGarry, Acquisitions
My gratitude goes first to my husband, Vincent Editor, became a guide in questions of style, and was
Tortora, for lending his linguistic skills to his devel- a most valuable source of advice and encouragement
opment of the pronunciations included in the work. throughout the writing and editing. Adam Bohan-
non, Art Director, originated an effective and appeal-
A number of individuals contributed both ing design for the interior of the book and Priscilla
general reviews of the dictionary and specialized Taguer was the Production Manager.
reviews of individual categories. The general re-
viewers ae Lynda Campbell, Fairfax County Public In the production phase, Chernow Editorial
Schools; Mary Morris, G Street Fabrics; and Robert Services, Inc., coordinated a smooth transition
Woods, Berkeley College. Reviewers of individual from manuscript to printed text. Barbara Chernow,
categories include Kate Achelpohl, Vision Council President, was always ready with answers to ques-
of America, Eyewear; Jerry Anderson, The Neck- tions about organization and Steve Bedney, Manag-
wear Association of America, Ties; Edith Anderson ing Editor, handled the flow of work with what
Feisner, The Embroiderers’ Guild of America, Em- seemed like effortless attention to the many essen-
broidery; Adam Graham, American Gem Society, tial details.
Gems, Gem Cuts, and Settings and Jewelry; Keith
Kaplan, Fur Information Council of America, Furs; Working with these professionals was always
Sally Kay, The Hosiery Association, Hosiery; Jeryl rewarding. And I appreciate all of their help.
Spear, Salon News Contributing Editor, Hairstyles
and Hair Accessories; and Bella Veksler, Drexel Uni- Numerous libraries also provided assistance.
versity, Belts, Handbags, Headwear, and Scarves. These were the Briarcliff Manor, NY, Public Library
and the Westchester, NY, Library System and its
Working with Bina Abling, the illustrator of numerous branches, the library of the Fashion
this edition, was a pleasure. The results of her excel- Institute of Technology, the Queens College Ben-
lent and illuminating contributions are to be found jamin Rosenthal Library, the New York Public
in the pages of this book. And, as always, Merle Library and Picture Collection, and the Port Wash-
Thomason, archivist for Fairchild Publications, ington, NY, Public Library.

Internet sources of information and confirma-
tion are too numerous to cite, but without use of the
World Wide Web, this project would have required
far more time and energy.

the fairchild dictionary of fashion



C

C

C 1. Shoe size: Letter indicating a width; widths CAD See computer-aided design.

run from AAAA to EEEEE with AAAAs being CAD/CAM See computer- a i ded design/
the narrowest and EEEEEs the widest. 2. Pajama
computer-aided manufacturing.
size: Men’s regular height (5′8″–5′11″) size cor-
responding to 41″–44″ chest measurement. For caddie/caddy See headwear: bush hat.
other sizes, see big, regular, extra-tall, and
tall. 3. Shirt size: For men’s extra-tall size with cadenette (cad-net´) French term for a “lock of
17–171⁄2 collar measurement. 4. Bra cup size.
hair.” See hairstyles: coiffure en cadenettes.
Standard sizes run AAA, AA, A, B, C, D, the A
Cadogan See hairstyles: george and wigs and
sizes being the smallest and D the largest. There
hairpieces: clubwig.
is no industry agreement on cup sizes larger
cadogan net See headwear: snood.
than D. Different manufacturers use different
Cadoro® bra See undergarments.
designations.
caban 1. See coats and jackets. 2. See coats Caesar haircut See hairstyles.

and jackets: gaberdine. caftan Long, full robe with a
cabana set See activewear.
cabas See headwear. slit neckline that is of ten
cabbage ruff See ruff.
cabin-boy breeches See pants. decorated w ith embroidery
cable hatband Band of gold yarn twisted to
and has long or three-quarter-
resemble a rope or cable; worn in the late 16th c.
ca ble st i tch See em broideries and sewing length sleeves that widen to

sti tch e s . the end. Based on a North
cable sweater See sweaters.
cable yarn See cord yarn. Af rican or Middle Eastern
cabochon See gems, gem cuts, and settings.
cabretta See leathers. garment, the caftan was
cabriole headdress See hair accessories.
cabriolet bonnet See headwear. adopted by American women
cache-folies See wigs and hairpieces.
cache-laid See masks. in the 1960s and after and
cache-peigne See headwear.
cack See footwear. worn as at-home or evening

dress.

caftan neckline See necklines caftan
and collars.

cage 1. Overblouse or dress made out of lattice-

like or transparent fabric. 2. See undergar-

ments: hoops.

cage-americaine See undergarments.

cage dress Woman’s garment made in two layers

with inner layer opaque and cut close to body,

and outer layer of sheer or latticed fabric hang-

ing loosely. Su ch dresses, introdu ced in late

1960s by Paris couturier Yves Saint Laurent, cami-tap set 51

were similar to dresses designed by Spanish cou- calotte 1. See headwe a r. 2. See clerical
dress.
turier Cristobal Balenciaga in Paris in the 1940s.
calypso chemise (ca-lip-so) Woman’s dress of
Popular again in the 1990s. the 1790s made in two parts: a dress of colored
cage empire See undergarments. muslin worn under a loose robe.
cage petticoat See undergarments.
caging See furs. calypso shirt See shirts.
cagoule See capes, cloaks, and shawls. CAM See computer-aided manufacturing.
cainsil (kane-sil) See chainse. camail 1. See armor. 2. See capes, cloaks, and
cairngorm See gems, gem cuts, and settings.
cake hat See headwear. shawls.
calamanco See footwear: calamanco shoes. Camargo See coats and jackets.
calamanco shoes See footwear. Camargo hat See headwear.
calash See headwear camauro See clerical dress.
calasiris See kalasiris. cambric † Fine, closely woven cotton fabric made
calcarapedes See footwear.
calceus See footwear. with mercerized yarns given a calendered finish.
calculator watch See watches. May also be made of linen and used for hand-
calèche See headwear: calash. kerchiefs. Der. From Cambrai, France.
calençons (kal´sen) Worn by women in early Cambridge coat See coats and jackets.
Cambridge paletot See coats and jackets.
17th c., a type of long drawers or hose worn with camelaurion See headwear.
cameleons See footwear.
doublet and petticoat that later developed into camel hair † 1. Fibers from the crossbred Bac-
trian camel of Asia, which produ ces soft luxu-
the breeches and trousers of women’s contem- rious ya rn that is resistant to heat and cold.
2. Cloth made of these fibers.
porary riding habit. cameo 1. A small low relief carving usually made
calender † Passing fabric between two heated from a banded two-layered g emstone such as
onyx or sardonyx that gives a raised design, usu-
rollers in order to produ ce a smooth, even ally in white with another color left as the back-
ground. Most common subject is a woman’s
appearance. head and shoulders. The opposite of intaglio.
calendar watch See watches. See gems, gem cuts, and settings: cameo and
calf-length See lengths. intaglio. 2. Carving a two-tone shell in the
calfskin See furs and leathers. same manner as above to produce a shell cameo.
calgoule See capes, cloaks, and shawls. 3. Using colored pottery material similar to that
calico † Plain weave, light- to medium-weight used by Josiah Wedgwood and molded to produce
a Wedgewood® cameo (see under jewelry).
cotton or cotton-blend fabric usually printed Cameron tartan See plaids and tartans.
cames See undergarments: chemise.
with very small designs such flowers or geomet- camikini See swimwear: bikini.
camise See undergarments: chemise.
ric forms. Also see pri n ts, stripes, and ch ecks: camisette See undergarments.
camisia Medieval British term for chemise. See
calico print. undergarments: chemise.
calico button See closures. camisole 1. See undergarments. 2. Seeblouses
California embroidery See embroideries and and tops: camisole top. 3. See necklines and
collars: camisole neckline. 4. Sleeved
sewing stitches. jacket or jersey formerly worn by men.
calisthenic costume Knee-length dress worn cami-tap set See undergarments: tap panties.

with Turkish trousers similar to bloomer cos-

tume. Worn in late 1850s by women and girls

for such sports as archery, iceskating, and exer-

cising with dumbbells. Later, a version of this

dress was called gymnasium costume.
calk See footwear.
calligraphic scarf See scarves.
Callot Soeurs * See Appendix/Designers.

52 camouflage pants

camouflage pants See pants. palm; rattan canes, carried in 17th and 18th c.

camouflage suit See activewear. and made from an East Indian palm; constable,

camp 1. Deliberate adoption of styles or behavior a small cane with a gold-plated top carried by

that are gen era lly con s i dered to be vulgar, arti- men in 1830s and 1840s; penang lawyer, a walk-

f icial, or humorous. adj. Also used as an adjec- ing stick used by men in 19th c. made from a

tive to describe such styles. 2. See shirts and palm stem with a bulbous top.

shorts. canezou (can-zoo´) Refers to any of several

campagus See footwear. types of 19th-c. acce s s ory garm ents that were

campaign coat See coats and jackets. sometimes worn as a means of extending the life

campaign hat See headwear. of an older garment. 1. A woman’s waist-length
spencer jacket of 1820s without sleeves, this
C campaign wig See wigs and hairpieces. sleeveless overblouse style continued in use until
camp shirt See shirts.

camp shorts See shorts. the 1860s. 2. In 1830s a cape, c ut short and

canadienne See coats and jackets. pointed, ex tending down cen ter front and back

canary breeches See activewear: riding but not covering the arms. Also call ed canezou

breeches. pelerine. 3. By mid-19th c. an elabora te fichu

canary diamond See gems, gem cuts, and or scarf of muslin, ribbons, and lace covering

s ettings. bodice of dress.

cancan dress Contempo- canezou pelerine See canezou #2.

rary version of the tradi- canions Tu bular ga rm ents worn on the thighs

tional costume of Parisian as extensions of m en’s trunk hose f rom 1570

cancan dancers of the to 1620. Frequently of different fabric or color

1890s. The bodice has a than the trunk hose. Shown at elizabethan

busti er effect and laces styles.

up the back. The skirt has cannetille (can-tee) 1. Military braid of gold or

an overskirt in apronlike silver thread that looks like lace. Also spelled

effect tapering to center cantile. 2. Fine spiral-twisted gold or silver thread,

back with a large bow, and used for embroidery.

is worn over under skirt cannon 1. See cannons. 2. See armor.

made with rows of ruffles. cancan dress cannons Frills of lace or bunches of ribbons

Designed by Victorine for Karl Lagerfeld of that fell down over tops of wide boots worn by

Chanel for fall 1986. Der. Similar to dresses worn men during 1660s and 1670s. Also called port

by Music Hall dancers in film and stage show canons, canons. Also worn with low shoes and

Can-Can and those shown in paintings by Henri petticoat breeches. S h own at petticoat

Toulouse-Lautrec. breeches.

candlewick embroidery See embroideries and cannon sleeve See sleeves and shoulders.

sewing stitches. canotier See headwear.

candy stripes See prints, stripes, and canteen bag See handbags and related

ch ecks. acce s s ories.

cane Staff or walking sti ck to assist walking or cantile See cannetille #1.

to carry as a fashionable accessory. Canes vary canvas embroidery See em broideries and sew-

from rough rustic wood for c ountry use, e.g., ing stitches: Berlin work.

shillelagh (sha-lay´-lee), to polished woods with cap See headwear.

el a borately decorated head s . Ca rri edfrom 16th c. capa See capes, cloaks, and shawls.

to present by men and occasionally by women, capes, cloaks, and shawls
s pecific types included: malacca cane (mah-lah´-

kah), also called a clouded cane, carried in 18th c. cape Sleeveless outerwear of various lengths

and made from the mottled stem of the malacca usually opening in center front; cut in a full











58 capes, cloaks, and shawls: opera wrap

satin. Worn for formal occasions with tail changed to ankle-length by 5th c. This ga r-

coat (see coats and jackets) and top hat ment had a large, square decoration called a

(see headwear). Der. In the 19th c., it was tablion at the open edge over the breast.

fashionable attire with the high silk hat for pelerine (pel-er-reen´) 1. Woman’s shor t

the opera. Also favored by magicians and cir- shoulder cape of fur, velvet, or other fabric

cus ringmasters. worn from 1740 to end of 18th c. Sometimes

opera wrap Term used in early 1900s for worn with long scarf ends crossed and tied

women’s full-length opera cape usually made around waist. 2. A wide collarlike cape, some-

of el a borate fabric trimmed with fur or times permanently attached, made of lace or

fe a t hers. fabric worn over a dress or pelisse (see under

C paenula (pay´-new-la) Hooded cape or coats and jackets) that was especially pop-

poncho-shaped garment, made of heavy ular from c. 1820 to 1850.

woolen fabric or leather. Worn by ancient peplum rotonde Woman’s waist-length cir-

Romans for traveling or inclement weather. cular cloak, made with back vent and fringed

paisley shawl See capes, cloaks, and shawls: border, worn in 1871.

cashmere shawl #2. piano shawl See capes, cloaks, and shawls:

palatine See capes, cloaks, and shawls: Spanish shawl.

ti ppet. Pierrot cape (pee-ehr-oh´) Woman’s three-

palatine royal A fur cape of 1851 with a quarter-length cloak of 1892 with additional

quilted hood and short ends in front. Also shoulder cape and satin ruff at neckline simi-

called victorine. lar to that worn with Pierrot costume.

paletot-cloak (pal-ah-tow´ or pal-to w´) Polish mantle Knee-length woman’s cloak

Man’s hip-length cape of the 1850s made in of mid-1830s with attach edcape made of satin

single- or double-breasted edged with fur.

style with armhole slits. polonaise (pol-on-nays´) In 1750s a cape or

paletot-mantle (pal-ah- small hooded cloak drawn back like a polon-

tow´ or pal-tow´) Woman’s aise dress (see polonaise #1). Also called

three-quarter-length cloak polonaisepardessus (pol-on-nays´ par-de´-soo).

with hanging sleeves and a poncho 1. Fashion item shaped like a square

cape co llar worn in late or a small oblong blanket with hole in center

1860s. for the head. Frequently fringed around the

palla Rectangular shawl-like edges. Popular in late 1960s and after. 2. Util-

garment resembling ancient itarian garment consisting of waterproofed

Greek himation. Worn by fabric with a slash in the cen-

Roman wom en draped ter for the head. When worn,

around body, sometimes with palla and stola it was used as a rain cape;
when not worn could be used
one end draped over head.

pallium Rectangular shawl as a tarpaulin or a blanket.

worn by Roman man. Also see 3. Square of nylon fabric,

himation. 5 4″ × 80″, laminated with

paludamentum (pa-lu-da- polyvinyl chloride, that slips

men´tum) 1. Pu rple mantle of over the hea d and snaps

rich fabric fastened with clasp closed at the sides to make a

at shoulders. Worn by Roman partial sleeve. One size fits

emperors and military officers. everyone. Usually styled with

2. Same item worn by upp er an attached hood. Originally

class Byzantine men, the em- made of a rubberized fabric

peror, and the em press but paludamentum #2 and worn by policemen on a poncho #1

capes, cloaks, and shawls: Spanish shawl 59

rainy day. Also called a rain poncho or all- skoncho A do-it-yourself style poncho made
purpose poncho. 3. Woman’s loose three-
quarter-length cloak worn in the 1860s with from a brushed wool plaid blanket or striped
buttons from neck to hem, a small standing
collar, full sleeves—narrower at the w rist— with a fringe on two ends, similar to a blanket
with capes over the sleeves.
rain cape 1. A lightweight plastic cape that used at a football game. A 16″ slash is cut
may be folded, placed in a small envelope,
and carri ed for use wh en it rains. 2. A cape diagonally in the center. May also be worn as
of any fabric treated for water repellency.
rain poncho See capes, cloaks, and shawls: a skirt.
Poncho #3.
rebozo (re-bow´-zho) An oblong shawl made soccus Ceremonial and coronation cape
of native fabric worn o riginally by South
American Indians and introduced as a fash- fastened on the right shoulder worn during
ion item in late 1960s.
ripple cape In the 1890s a wo man’s short Middle Ages by kings and dignitaries. Also
ruffled cape extended beyond the shoulder by
shirring three layers of fabric or lace onto a spelled socq.
yoke trimmed with ribbon.
roquelaure ( ro ke´-ay-lore) Ma n’s knee- sontag (sonn´-tag) Woman’s small cape of
length to full-length heavy cloak of 18th c.
of ten fur-trimmed and lined with bright- 1850s and 1860s worn for warmth, often
colored silk. Usually made with cape collar
and back vent for riding hors e back. Der. knitted or crocheted with ends crossed in
From Antoine Gastone Jean-Baptiste, le duc
de Roquelaure(1656–1738), minister of ward- front and worn under a cloak. Der. Named for
robe under Louis XIV. Also spelled roculo,
roccelo, rocklo. German opera singer, Henriette Sontag.
rotonde Woman’s short or three-quarter
length circular cape of 1850s and 1860s made sortie de bal (sor´-tee de bal) Woman’s
of lace or of same material as dress.
sagum (sa´-goom) Red woolen rectangle of evening cloak with attached hood worn from
cloth worn pinned on the right shoulder as a
cape by Roman soldiers and by all Roman cit- 1850s to 1870s. Made of silk or cashmere and
izens in time of war. The phrase “to put on
the sagum” was synonymous with saying “to lined with a quilted fabric.
go to war.”
serape (say-rah´-pay) Bright-colored o blong space blanket Insulated blanket with one side
rectangle worn by Mexicans over the shoul-
der. Handmade in hori zontally striped pat- aluminized, the other brightly colored. Worn
terns, it resembles a small blanket. Usually
made with fringed ends. on one side to insulate from the cold, the
shale French shawls, with handspun warp
and machine-spun merino filling, made in other side protects from the heat of the sun.
Rheims.
shawl See under category heading for capes, Folds to pocke t size for easy carrying. Der.
cloaks, and shawls: shawl.
Developed for NASA space program in late

1960s.

Spanish clo ak See capes, cloaks, and

shawls: Italian cloak.

Spanish shawl Large embroidered silk shawl

usually m ade in China then shipped to Spain

where the long silk f ri n ge was added. When

su ch a shawl was shipped by way of Manilla

in the Philippines, it was known as a manton

de manilla. When used as a

wrap, the shawl was folded

diagonally with the point in

center at the back and the

ends thrown loo s ely over

the shoulders. A fashionable

accessory of the early 20th c.,

it was revived in the late

1960s and early 1970s and

becomes fashionable per i-

odically. Also called piano

shawl, because in the early

20th c. this type o f shawl

was draped on the to p of

grand pianos. Spanish shawl 1926

60 capes, cloaks, and shawls: Spencer cloak

Spencer cloak Woman’s cloak of early visite (vee-zeet) General term for woman’s

19th c. made of embroidered net with elbow- loose cape-like outdoor garment worn in last

length sleeves. half of 19th c.

stole 1. See scarves. 2. See capes, cloaks, waterproof cloak Outergarment with small

and shawls: fur stole. tassell ed hood worn by women from 1867

tabard Short heavy cape of coarse cloth to 1870s, made of waterproof fabric. Later

worn outdoors in 19th c. by men and women. became an ankle-length semi-fitted coat with

tablet mantilla Watered or plain silk wrap princess lines buttoned down the front. Also

of mid-1850s made with a yo ke that falls see capes, cloaks, and shawls: Esmeralda

low on the shoulders. Trimmed with cut- cloak.

C tu rret (tab-shaped) edging, narrow braid, and Watteau cape (wat-toe´) Knee-length cape

fringe. of the 1890s worn by wom en. Styled with

Talma 1. Woman’s long cape or cloak, fre- collar fitted on neck then turned over. Made

quently hooded, worn in 1860s. 2. Woman’s with single box pleat in back, and gathered to

knee-to-hip–length cape of em broidered satin, neckline in front. Made with separate pieces

lace, or velvet with fringe at hem used as an gathered over the shoulders to fo rm capes

outer garment from 1850s to mid-1870s. 3. In over the arms. Der. Named for the artist

1890s, a woman’s full-length coat with loose An toine Watteau (1684–1721).

sleeves and lace cape or deep velvet collar. witchoura mantle 1. Woman’s cloak, worn

3. Knee-length man’s cape with a turned-over f rom 1808 to 1818, made with long fur-

collar and silk lining, worn for evening in trimmed cape. 2. An 1830s’ name for a

1850s. Der. Named for François Joseph Talma woman’s winter mantle with standing collar,

(1763–1826), a French tragic actor of Con- large sleeves, and lined or trimmed with fur.

sulate and Empire period. Also called Talma

mantle. cape à l’espagnole See capes, cloaks, and

tebenna (te-bain´-ah) Etruscan semicircu- shawls: capa.

lar cloak in purple, white, or black (for funer- cape coat See coats and jackets.

als) worn by a king and important citizens— cape collar See necklines and collars.

short at first, later knee-length, and finally cape hat See headwear.

full-length. The Roman toga is thoug ht to capelet See blouses and tops and capes, cloaks,

have developed from this cloak. and shawls.

templar cloak See coats and jackets: caban. capeline See armor and headwear.

tippet 1. Shoulder cape of fur or cloth worn Cape May diamond See gems, gem cuts, and

by women from 16th c. on. In the 1840s, such settings.

a small fur or lace shoulder cape of the 1840s cape ruby See gems, gem cuts, and settings.

with long flat ends in front reaching below capeskin See leathers.

the waist was called a palatine. 2. See capes, cape sleeve See shoulders and sleeves.

cloaks, and shawls: fur stole. Capezio® See footwear: ballet slippers.

tudor cape Wom a n’s short circular cape capless wig See wigs and hairpieces.

of 1890s, usually using embroidered fabric. cap of dignity See h e adwear: cap of main-

Made with pointed yoke front and back, and tenance.

epaulet on each shoulder, and velvet Medici cap of esta te See headwear: cap of main-

collar. tenance.

venetian cloak Woman’s black satin cloak cap of maintenance See headwear.

of late 1820s with collar, cape, and wide hang- capot See coats and jackets: capote.

ing sleeves. capote 1. See capes, cloaks, and shawls. 2. See

victorine See capes, cloaks, and shawls: coats and jackets. 3. See headwear.

palatine Royal. capot-ribot See headwear.

cappuccio See headwear: chaperon. Carnegie, Hattie 61
caprice See coats and jackets.
Capri-length panty girdle See undergarments: winter, he wore a sleeveless knitted woolen vest
under his uniform. Present-day cardigans do not
girdles. resemble the original garment. See coats and
caprioll See headwear: cabriole headdress. jackets: cardigan, necklines and collars:
Capri pants See pants. cardigan, shirts: cardigan, and sweaters:
caps See headwear. cardigan. Shown at sweaters: cardigan.
cap sleeve See shoulders and sleeves. cardinal See capes, cloaks, and shawls.
Capucci, Roberto * See Appendix/Designers. cardinal pelerine See necklines and collars.
capuche See headwear: capuche and carding See carded yarn.
Cardin, Pierre * See Appendix/Designers.
Capuchin. care label Permanently attached label for apparel
Capuchin See headwear. required by a Federal Trade Commission ruling
Capuchin collar See necklines and collars. of 1972. The label must provide care and main-
capuchon 1. See headwear: Capuchin. 2. See tenance directions. Excepti ons inclu de hats,
gloves, and footwear; articles selling for less than
capes, cloaks, and shawls. $3; items that would be defaced by attaching a
capucine See headwear: Capuchin. label; or items not requiring cleaning.
Capulet See headwear. careless See coats and jackets.
caraco See coats and jackets. cargo Adjective used to describe apparel that has
cara co co rsage See coats and jackets : cargo pockets. See pockets: cargo. Also see
c a rgo jumpsuit, pants: c a rgo pants, and
c a raco #2. shorts: cargo shorts.
caracul 1. See furs: karakul. 2. See karakul carmagnole See coats and jackets.
carmeillette See capes, cloaks, and shawls:
cloth in alphabetical listing. capuchon.
carat See gems, gem cuts, and settings. Carnaby cap See headwear: newsboy cap.
caravan See headwear. Carnaby dress Simple beltless dress made in fab-
caravan bag See handbags: safari bag. rics of unusual color combinations with a large
carbatina See footwear. white collar. Der. Named for Carnaby Street, in
carbuncle See gems, gem cuts, and settings. London, England, where “mod” fashions origi-
carcaille See necklines and collars. nated in 1960s.
car coat See coats and jackets. Carnaby look Look adopted first in London in
carded yarn † Yarn made from short fibers, connection with the mod look. Introduced in
the United States in 1964, it featured such items
k n own in the textile industry as staple fibers, as miniskirts; capes for men; polka dot shirts
that have been subjected to the process of card- with large flat white collars; low-slung, bell-
ing. Carding is the first step in making staple bo t tom ed trousers; news boy caps; and wide vi nyl
fibers into y arns. The fib ers are separ ated, neckties one day—string ties the next. A major
straightened out somewhat, and formed into a factor in the trend for young men to move away
weblike mass, after which the web is drawn out from traditional styling, it also influenced skirt
and given a greater or lesser degree of twist to lengths for women, and styling of children’s
form a yarn. Carded yarns have more fibers on wear. Der. After Carnaby Street, a London back
the surface and are not so smooth as combed street, behind the grand shopping thoro u gh-
yarns. fare of Regent Street, where the mod look first
cardigan An adjective used to describe collarless appeared in many small boutiques catering to
garments with round or V-necklines that button avant-garde young customers. Also see neck-
down the front. The name is derived from that lines and collars: carnaby collar.
of James Thomas Brudenell, 7th Earl of Cardi- Carnegie, Hattie * See Appendix/Designers.
gan (1797–1868), the lieutenant general in the
British Army during the Crimean War who led
the famous charge of the Light Brigade. Needing
an extra layer of warmth for the cold Crimean

62 carnelian

carnelian See gems, gem cuts, and settings. and Princes of Russia, the Brazilian royal family,

carnival collar See necklines and collars. and other royalty and cel ebrities throughout

carnival lace See laces: bridal lace. the world.

Caroline corsage Woman’s evening bodice of cartoon apron See aprons.
1830s made with lace ruffles forming a Vin front, ca rtoon fashions Apparel impri n ted with images

extended around shoulders into small cape. of comic strip and cartoon characters. Part of

Caroline hat See headwear. the trend toward licensing.

Caroline sleeve See shoulders and sleeves. cartoon T-shirt See shirts.

carpenter Adj. Describes clothing modeled after cartoon watch See watches.

or influenced by clothing worn by carpenters. cartridge belt See belts.

C See pants: carpenter pants and aprons: cartridge pleats See clothing construction
carpenter apron. details.

carpenter’s apron See aprons. cartwheel Adj. Describes apparel that has the

carpet bag See handbags and related acces- shape of a large, round wh eel like those used on

sories. carts. For examples see headwear: cartwheel

carpet slipper See footwear. hat; shoulders and sleeves: cartwheel

carpincho See leathers. sleeves; and necklines and collars: cart-

carriage boot See footwear. wheel ruff.

carriage dress A woman’s dress or costume casaque See coats and jackets: casaque and

suitable for riding in a carriage. The term was in coats and jackets: cassock #3.

use from about 1820 to the end of the 19th c. casaquin See coats and jackets: caraco.

The specific style conformed to current fashions casaquin bodice Tight-fitting bod i ce for

and was frequently trimmed with fur. daytime dress, similar in cut to man’s tail coat

carriage parasol See umbrellas and parasols. (see coats and jackets: swallow tail coat),

carriage suit Three-piece set for infant, consist- closing with but tons down front and worn in

ing of jacket, pants, and hat. Worn outdoors in 1878.

baby carriage since the late 1920s. casaweck See coats and jackets.

carria ge trade Term coined by merchants (c. cascade 1. Ruffles bias-cut from fabric, in circu-

1890–1910) to refer to affluent customers who lar manner, that fall in folds. 2. Trimming used

arrived at the stores in their own carriages. Still in the 19th and early 20th c. made by cutting a

sometimes used in referen ceto upscale customers. narrow piece of fabric on bias and pleating it to

carrick See coats and jackets. form repeated shell designs. 3. Jet pendants

Carrickmacross lace See laces. of beads with a zigzag edge used at waistline or

carryall See handbags and related acces- bodice in 1860s. 4. See necklines and collars.

sories: tote. cased body 1. Man’s sleeveless jerkin worn over

carryall cl u tch See handbags and related doublet in second part of 16th c. 2. Woman’s

accessories. bodice of early 19th c. with series of horizontal

carrying frocks See long clothes. pleats or rows of shirring (see clothing con-

carryover Apparel styles in a line from one sea- struction details) across the front.

son that are repeated to the next season. See cased sleeve See shoulders and sleeves.

collection. casentino See coats and jackets.

Cartier’s Famous New York City retail store that cashambles See chaussembles.

sells jewelry. Alfred Cartier and his son, Louis, cashgora † Fiber obtained from goats bred in

established the firm in 1898 and by the begin- New Zealand that are a cross between female

ning of the 20th c., they had become the most cashmere goats and angora males. The fiber is

prestigious jewelers in the world. Among their fine, soft, and strong, has a low to medium lus-

clients were the king of Portugal, Grand Dukes ter, and dyes well.

cauliflower wig 63

Cashin, Bonnie * See Appendix/Designers. tions. See casual Friday.
cashmere † 1. A fine, soft, downy wool under-
Related terms include leisure
growth produ ced by the cashmere goat, which
is raised in the Kashmir regi on of India and wear, sportswear.
Pa kistan and parts of northern India, Tibet,
Mongolia, Turkmenistan, China, Iran, and Iraq. casual work days/casual Fri-
Similar goats can now be raised in the United
States. 2. Cloth woven from this wool fiber. day Working days identified
Synonyms include pashmina.
cashmereshawl See capes, cloaks, and shawls. by business or industry when
cashmere sweater See sweaters.
cashmere work See embroideries and sewing employees can wear casual
stitches.
casing See clothing construction details. dress to work. For many com-
casque See headwear.
casquette See headwear. panies, the sel ected day is
Cassini, Oleg * See Appendix/Designers.
cassock See coats and jackets and clerical Fri d ay.
dress.
cassock mantle See capes, cloaks, and shawls. casula See clerical dress:
Castelbajac, Jean Charles de * See Appendix/
Designers. chasuble. casual Friday look
castellated (kas-tell-ay´-ted) Adjective catagan See hairstyles: cado-
describing a garment with “squared scallops” at
edges, particularly the edge of sleeves or hem. gan and wigs and hairpieces: club wig.
Used in 14th and 15th c. Similar to dagging.
Also see battlement. catalog showroom Setting like a warehouse in
caste mark Red mark usually worn in center of
forehead by women of India that originally sym- which merchandise is sold from a catalog or
bolized and identified caste or class membership
but which now serves a decorative functio n. floor samples.
Paste-on caste marks were introduced in U.S. as
body jewelry for women in 1968. catcher’s mask See masks.
Castle, Irene Am erican ball room dancer, marri ed
to her dancing partner, Vernon Castle. Together catch st i tch See em broi deries and sewing
they made tea-dancing the rage in pre–World
War I. By 1914 she had started many fashion sti tch e s .
fads—short earlobe-length hair brushed back
off forehead in loose weaves, Dutch lace caps, category killer A specialty discounter that “kills”
slashed hobble skirts (see under skirts), and
dancing shoes with ballet laces (see under the com petiti on by con centrating on having
footwear).
castor See headwear. the best selection at the best price of a single
casual wear Clothing designed to be worn for
occasions that do not require more formal dress. product. Smaller independent stores that carry
Over time, casual wear has been widely accepted
for many activities, including some work situa- the same ty pe of merchandise are gener ally

unable to compete with a “category killer.”

cater cap See headwear.

Catherine II Married in 1745 to Peter III of Ru s-

sia, who ascen ded the throne in 1762, was

deposed, and his crown usurped by Catherine.

A major fashion influence of h er time, one of

h erdresses, worn to receive the Turkish ambas-

sador in 1775, was trimmed with many dia-

m onds and 4,200 magnificent pearls. During

h er reign, coi f f u res were limited in height to

about 36″.

Catherine-wheel farthingale See farthingale.

catogan wig See wi gs and hairpieces: club wi g.

cat’s eye See gems, gem cuts, and settings.

cat stitch See embroideries and sew ing

stitches: catch stitch.

cat suit See activewear.

cattlehide See leathers.

caudebec See headwear.

caul 1. See headwear. 2. See wigs and hair-

pieces.

cauliflower wig See wigs and hairpieces.

64 caution fee

caution fee Fee paid by countries. The exact cut and how it

American designer or man- is wo rn varies from c ountry to

ufacturer to attend showing country. In some cases, it is worn

of a Paris couturier. That with a head scarf, or it may cover the

fee, which may be equal to wearer from head to toe and have

cost of one or two items, netting over the ey es. In Afghan-

can be applied to purchases. istan, this garment is called a burka.

cavalier Adj. Describes Also spell edchadder, chaddah, chadur,

apparel derived fro m or chadar, chudder, chuddar. 2. An Indo-

inspired by clothing worn Iranian shawl or mantle about three chaddar or
yards in length. Also called uttariya. burka
C by par tisans of King 3. Indian shawls wrapped around the
Charles I of E n gland (1625– shoulders or waist by Hindu men.

1649). Among the styles

favored by cavalier men cavalier style 1630 chadur See chaddar #1.

were long, curled hairstyles, large-brimmed hats chaffers See headwear: English hood.

decorated with feathers, wide, flat collars deco- chain 1. Series of connected

rated with lace, wide cuffed boots, and full hip- loops or links made of metal,

length capes. For examples see headwear: plastic, or tortoise shell used for

cavalier hat, necklines and collars: cava- closings or worn as an orna-

lier collar, and shoulders and slee ves: m ental accessory in the form of

cavalier sleeve. necklace, bracel et , or belt. Chains chain rope chain
cavu shirt See shirts. a re called by various names

cawdebink See headwear: caudebec. according to shap e of links—cobra chain is

cawdor cape See capes, cloaks, and shawls: composed of two rows of triangular-shaped

glengarry cape. links that alternate in a flat effect. Herringbone

caxon See wigs and hairpieces. chain is made of small slanting links giving a

ceint (sant) Man’s or woman’s belt or girdle flat effect. Roped chain is composed of t wo

worn in the 14th and 15th c. Also spelled seint. ( or more) pieces of chain twisted and wound

celata See armor: salett. together like rope. 2. Adjective used to describe

cellophane Gen eric name, once a trademark, items of apparel that incorporate chains into

for thin transparent film made of acetate. Used their design. See belts: chain belt, closures:

in ribbon-sized strips to cover paper fibers imi- chain closure, headwear: chain hat, foot-

tating straw or used alone as synthetic straw for wear: loafer, jewelry: chain bracelet and

hats, handbags, etc. chain necklace.

celluloid collar See necklines and collars. chain mail See armor: mail.

cellulose Basic substance, a carbohydrate, con- chain store Centralized retail organization that

tained in all vegetable fibers, and certain manu- owns and operates a number of retail outlets in

factured fibers, including acetate and rayon. different locations that are similar in the lines of

cervellière See armor. m erchandise they sell and in their methods of

ceryphalos See headwear. operation.

CFDA See Council of Fashion Designers of chainse (shens) Medieval garment of the 11th

America. and 12th c. that was worn over a chemise (see

CGMM See com p uter grading and marker u n dergarm en ts) and may have been worn as

making. a house dress or perhaps as a summer garment,

chaconne See ties. as it was made of washable, lightweight fabric,

chaddah See chador #1. probably white linen.

chador/chaddar/chadri 1. An al l-enveloping chain st i tch See em broi deries and sewing

shapeless cape worn by women in some Muslim sti tch e s .

chainstitched embroidery See embroideries change pocket 65
and sewing stitches.
to-wear designers formed in 1975 as another
chalcedony See gems, gem cuts, and settings. vehicle for pro motion wo rking within the
chalk stripes See prints, stripes, and checks. Fédération Française de Couture, du Prêt-
chall is † (shal´-lee) Soft, plain weave fabric made à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs
de Mode.
of wool, rayon staple, cotton, or manufactured Chambre Syndicale des Paruriers (sham´-br
fiber blends. Supple and lightweight, it is often san´-dee-kale deh pa-roo´-yer) An association
printed in small floral patterns. Generally used comprised of accessory houses in Paris that pro-
for wom en’s dresses and sportswear, infant’s we ar, duce bags, belts, feathers, flowers, gloves, and
and robes. umbrellas.
chamarre (shah-mar) An academic robe made Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter (sham´-br
like a long full coat with sleeves full at the san´-dee-kale duh pret ah por-tay´) Organiza-
shoulders—usually fur-lined and decorated with tion of couture and women’s ready-to-wear
braid and passementerie. Introduced about 1490 designers formed in 1975 as another vehicle for
in England; later referred to a judge’s gown. Also promoti on working within the Fédérati on
spelled chammer, chymer, samarra, samarre, Française de Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter
shamew. Also see clerical dress: simar. des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode.
chambord mantle/chambard mantle See chammer See chamarre.
capes, cloaks, and shawls. chamois See leathers.
chambray † (sham´-bray) A broad class of chamois cloth † (sham-wah´) Soft cotton fabric
plain weave fabrics made with colored yarns in that is either knitted or woven. Made with a fine
the lengthwise direction and white yarns in the soft nap in imitation of chamois-dyed sheep-
crosswise direction. May be a plain co l or, skin. Should not be shortened or confused with
striped, or ch ecked. Usu a lly made of co t ton, chamois ( See under leathers), as this refers
manufactured fibers, or a blend of the two. to leather and a leather-tanning process.
Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne chamois tanning See leathers.
(sham´-br san´-dee-kale de lah koo´-ture pah-ree- chandelier earrings See jewelry.
zee-en) An association of Parisian couturiers Chanel bag See handbags and related acces-
founded in 1868 as an outgrowth of medieval sories.
guilds that regulates its members in regard to Chanel, Gabrielle * See Appendix/
piracy of styles, dates of openings for collec- Designers.
tions, numberof m odels presented, relations wi th Chanel suit Classic women’s suit
press, questions of law and taxes, and promo- style originated by Gabrielle
tional activities. Formation of the organization Chanel in the 1920s and revived
was brought about by Charles Frederick Worth. in the 1960s. It had a collarless,
An affiliated school was organized in 1930 called cardigan-style jacket, and the
L’Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture. 1960s version was frequently made
Since 1975, this organization has worked within of plaid fabric with a braid trim.
the Fédérati on Française de Couture, du changeable earrings See jewelry.
Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créa- changeable effect † An iridescent
teurs de Mode. effect in fabric that is achieved by
Chambre Syndicale de la Mode (sham´-br san´- using lengthwise and crosswise
dee-kale de lah mode) French official organi- yarns dyed different colors. Usu- Chanel suit 1960s
zation of milliners operating like the Chambre ally made in silk or lustrous manufactured fibers
Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. in f a brics such as taffeta to ach i eve the most
Chambre Syn d i ca le de la Mode Masculine dramatic ef fect. Synonyms: glace(glahs-ay´), shot.
(sham´-br san´-dee-kale de lah mode mas´-ku- changeable taffeta See changeable effect.
leen) Organizationof couture and men’s ready- cha nge pocke t See pockets : ticket pocket.

66 change purse

change pur se See handbags and r elated to hold small items such as scissors,

accessories. thimble case, tape measure, penknife,

channel setting See gems, gem cuts, and watch, keys, or buttonhook. Worn in

s ettings. last half of 19th c. See cordelière.

Chantilly lace See laces. 2. Antique silver or plated scent bot-

chapeau See headwear. tle worn around neck on a long chain

chapeau à la Charlotte See headwear: in 1980s. Der. French, “lady of the

Charl otte. castle.”Also see j ewelry and watches.

chapeau bras See headwear. chatelaine bag See handbags and

chapeau claque See headwear: opera hat. related accessories.

C chapeau cloche See headwear. chatelaine watch See watches. chatelaine #1
chapel cap See headwear: chapel veil. chati cat See furs: spotted cat.

chapel de fer See armor. chatoyancy See gems, gem cuts, and settings.

chapel-length train See lengths. chausembles See chaussembles.

chapel veil See headwear. chausons (show-son´) French equivalent of the

chaperon See headwear. English under pants, called braies (see under-

chaperone See headwear: chaperon. garments), worn fro m the 5th through the

chapiney See footwear: chopine. 13th c.

chaplet See headwear. chausse (shos) 1. See armor. 2. Stockings

chaps See pants. and trunks cut in one piece similar to contem-

Charlie Chaplin 1. See coats and jackets 2. See porary tights. First worn in Norman period

footwear: charlie chaplin toe. (1066–1154). Later in the Middle Ages, they fas-

Charlotte See headwear. tened to the upper garment (a doublet) by

Charlotte Corday cap See headwear. means of lacers called points. 3. About mid-

Charlotte Corday fichu See scarves. 16th c. chausses were divided into two parts—

charm See jewelry. upper part then called haut de chausses, later

charm bracelet See jewelry. called trunk hose and upper stocks. Lower part

charm necklace See jewelry. was called bas de chausses (ba deh shos), then

charro pants See pants. hose and finally stockings. 4. See capes, cloaks,

Chase, Edna Woolman Editor-in-chief of Ameri- and shawls: epitoga #2. Der. French, “bottom

can Vogue magazine from 1914 to 1952; also of hose.” Also see lower stocks.

editor of British Vogue, first published in 1916, cha ussembles (show´-som-bl)

and French Vogue, 1920. Considered one of the Ma n’s cut-and-sewn hose with

most able and competent fashion authorities. attached soles of leather or

One of her outstanding achievements was the whalebone worn in Middle Ages.

introduction in 1914 of a society-spon s ored Probably cut on the bias to pro-

fashion show with live models called “Fashion vide some degree of stretch, they

Fête,” the beginning of her long promotion of were somewhat baggy and ill-fit-

American designers. ting as compared to later knitted

chasembles See chaussembles. hosiery. Also spelled chausem-

chasing See jewelry. bles, chasembles, cashambles.

chasseur jacket See coats and jackets. chausses en bourse (shos on

chastity belt Beltlike device worn by women in boorce) Breeches pad ded so
the Middle Ages to ensure marital fidelity.
chaussembles
chasuble See clerical dress.
they were full er at bottom— 15th c.
making a flattened ball oon shape — worn in

chatelaine (shat´-eh-lane) 1. Ornamental device 17th c. Der. French, “bag breeches.”

of oxidized silver, silver-plated metal, or cut steel chausses en tonnelet See trunk hose.

su s pendedat woman’s waistline or hooked to belt chaussures à crics See footwear.

cheat 1. Ma n’s waistcoat or vest of 17th c. chest-high boot 67
with ex pensive fabric on front and poorer qual-
ity in back. 2. 19th-c. term for man’s false shirt the 1960s, and the 1990s. Also call ed “the sack.”
f ront with collar attached worn inste ad of a full Der. French “shift” or “shirt.”
shirt. chemise gown See perdita chemise in alpha-
betical listing.
chechia See headwear. chemise slip See undergarments.
check See prints, stripes, and checks. chemisette (shem-ee-zet´) 1. See scarves. 2. See
checked gingham See gingham. blouses and tops. 3. See vestee. 4. See shirts:
checkerboard checks See prints, stripes, and habit shirt.
chemisette à jabot (ah zha´-bo) Embroi-
checks. dered or pleated ruffle of 1850s and 1860s worn
checkerboard hose See hosiery. as a fill-in at front opening of a redingote (see
checkered-apron man English barbers of coats and jackets: redingote #5) showing
from neck to waist.
16th c. distinguished by the checked pattern chemisette garter Vertical su pporter for hose
of their aprons. Also see blue-aproned men attached to the corset in 1830s and 1840s.
and green-aproned men. chemise tucker See scarves: chemisette.
checks See prints, stripes, & checks. chenille † Fabrics made fro m chenille yarns.
cheek wrappers See headwear: dormeuse. These yarns have a fuzzy surface with short
cheeks-and-ears See headwear.: coif #6 and fibers projecting on all sid es. Chenille fabrics
orrelet. may be woven or knitted. When woven, they
cheetah See furs. a re usually made with the chenille yarns in the
chef’s apron See aprons. crosswise direction.
chef’s hat See headwear. chenille embroidery See embroideries and
Chelsea look Styles worn by the Chelsea Set, sewing stitches.
young people who frequented a Lond on area chenille lace See laces.
called Chelsea that was popular with artists and cheongsam Chinese woman’s dress
writers. Trends changed from time to time and originating in Shanghai, China, in
were usually copied in other countries as items the late 1930s in an attempt to blend
chosen by this group had wide influence on traditional Chinese and Western
general fashion trends. In the late 1940s and styles. It has a high, close-fitting
1950s, the look was tight jeans from U.S; in the collar, diagonal front opening that
late 1960s, old uniforms including nu rs e s’ or closes with frogs or butto ns, short
policem en’s uniforms, red guardsmen’s tunics, sleeves, a snug fit, and a side slit run-
and navy overcoats were all featu red. Also see ning from the bottom of the hem
necklines and collars: Chelsea collar and and reaching, in more daring ver-
footwear: Beatle boot. sions, as high as the thigh. Us ed as
chemise (shem-ees´) 1. See under- a basis for Western designs, most
garments. 2. Dress style that notably in housecoats and dresses. cheongsam
derives from the style of the under- Synonyms: qi pao, Chinese dress, and
garment called a chemise. mandarin dress.
Chemise-type dresses are charac- Cheruit, Madeleine * See Appendix/Designers.
terized by a loose fit. If they are cherusse See necklines and collars.
bel ted, belts are generally loc a ted at chesterfield See coats and jackets.
hipline or under the bust and the Chesterfield, 6th Earl of A British fashion leader
dress is unfitted at the anatomical in the 1830s and 1840s after whom the chester-
waistline. Periods in which such field overcoat (see under coats and jackets)
styles were w orn by women in- was named.
cluded the Directoire and Empire chest-high boot See footwear: waders.
periods (c. 1795–1820), the 1920s, chemise #2 1959

68 chesticore

chest i co re See coats and jackets: ju stau- for China ri bbon em broidery. See em broi deries

corps. and sewing stitches: rococo.

chest measurement 1. Men: distance around China silk † Soft, lustrous silk fabric in a plain

body at fullest par t of upper torso, one of the weave that may have slight texture due to use of

measurements by wh i chsuits are sold. 2. Wom en: irregular yarns. Made in China and Japan; origi-

measurement around the body taken with tape nally handmade in China as early as 1200 b.c.,

in front placed across front of body from arm- the name is also applied to machine-made fab-

hole seam to armhole seam at point above bust rics of a similar type.

and across the back. Differs from the bust meas- chinchilla See furs.

urement taken at fullest part of bosom. chinchilla cloth † Thick, heavyweight coating

C cheviot † (shev´-ee-ott) 1. Rough su rf aced, hairy fabric of all wool, or wool and cotton distin-

fabric made in a plain or twill weave from wool, guished by curly nubs on the surface. 1. Woven

manufactured fibers, or blends. Does not hold a as a double cloth with a plain back and a satin

crease well and, therefore, is generally used for face. Extra crosswise yarns added to the face of

casual clothing. 2. Cotton shirting woven with fabric are loosely floated over the surface. When

fairly heavy yarns in checked, striped, or small napped and rubbed into curled tufts, these yarns

figured patterns. form distinctive nubs on the surface. Less expen-

chevron 1. Motif consisting of two straight lines sive fabric is not woven in the same manner and
meeting to form an inverted V. 2. Badge of these may have a different surface effect. 2. A similar
V stripes worn on sleeve by policemen, firemen, fabric made by knitting and brushing surface

and the military to indicate rank. yarns into nubs.

chevrons Trimmings for wom en’s clothes intro- chin cloak See scarves.

duced in mid-1820s, usually a zigzag band near chiné See prints, stripes, and checks: warp

hem of skirt. print.

chic 1. n. The quality of being very much in style. Chinese collar See necklines and collars.

2. Adj. Smart, sophisticated, stylish. Chinese design Design com po s ed of moti fs

chicken skin See leathers. su ch as dragons, lanterns, clouds, and moun-

chicken-skin gloves See gloves and glove tains, in style ty pical of Chinese paintings and

constructions. embroideries.

chiffon † 1. Thin transparent fabric made in a Chinese dog See furs.

plain weave. It drapes well and is made from Chinese dress See cheongsam.

tightly twisted or crepe yarns. Originally made Chinese embroidery See em broi deries and

in silk; now also made in manufactured fibers. s ewing stitches.

Dyed solid colors or of ten printed in floral Chinese jacket See coats and jackets: coolie

designs. Used for sheer dresses, blouses, and coat.

scarves. 2. A trifle or bit of feminine finery. Der. Chinese knot Ornamental knot of covered cord

French, chiffe, “rag.” used as trimming on app a rel. Cop i ed from

chignon See hairstyles. traditional ornaments on Chinese robes.

chignon cap See headwear. Chinese lamb See under furs: karacul.

chignon strap See headwear. Chinese look Adaptations of Chinese styles in

chill mask See masks: hot mask. U.S. including items such as coolie coats and

chimere/chimer See clerical dress. hats, chinese pajamas, manda rin coats, man-

chimney-pot hat See headwear: top hat. darin necklines, and Chinese dresses with side

China doll hairstyle See hairstyles. slit called cheongsam. When China opened its

china grass See ramie. doors to West in early 1970s, there was a revival

China mink See furs. of interest in Chinese fashions resulting in such

China ribbon 1. Narrow ribbon, about 1/8″ wide, styles as the basic worker’s suit—or Mao suit,—

woven with a plain edge popular in mid-19th c. quilted jackets, the chinese shoe, and denim

chiton 69

coolie coats. St. Laurent featured Chinese chiton (ki´-tawn)
ensembles in 1977 that included small versions
of red coolie hats, coolie-type jackets of red and Garment worn in
gold brocade with frog closings and mandarin
collars; and pants tapered to hem worn with ancient Greece that
boots having flared tops.
Chinese lounging robe See sleepwear and consisted of a rec-
loungewear.
Chinese pajamas See sleepwear and lounge- tangle of fabric
wear.
Chinese Raccoon See furs: Ussurian Raccoon. wrapped around the
Chinese shoe See footwear.
Chinese slipper See footwear: kampskatcha body and fasten ed
slipper.
chinner See scarves: chin cloak. at the shoulders with
chino † ( ch ee´-no) Du ra ble co t ton, firm ly woven
with a fine steep twill and dyed a yell owish- one or more pins. A
tan or khaki color. Contemporary versions are
also dyed in many colors. Originally used for number of variations
summer uniforms for the U.S. Army, by the
1950s the fabric had been adopted by teenagers of this basic style
for school and general wear, particularly for
pants. Now used for a wide variety of casual were worn at differ-
clothing.
chinoise, à la (shin´ waaz, ah lah) French phrase ent points in Greek chitoniskos doric peplos
meaning “from the Chinese.” Often used as an
English fashion term to descri be items of apparel history. They were as
that show Chinese influences.
chinoiserie (shin-waaz-ze-ree´) Those designs in follows: (1) ch i ton-
textiles, fashion, and the decorative arts that
derive from Chinese styles. i skos (ki-tawn-iss´-
chinos See pants.
chin stays See headwear. kos): Worn by men
chintz † Medium-weight cotton or blended
fabric with a glazed or shiny finish that may be a from about 800 to
plain color or printed with floral, bird, or other
designs. Originally a fabric for slipcovers and 550 b.c., usually
draperies; now also used for variety of items
su ch as be achwear, shorts, blouses, skirts, dresses, short, made of pat-
and rainwear. Der. Indian, chint, name for a
gaudily printed fabric of cotton. tern ed wool, and fit-
chip See gems, gem cuts, and settings.
chip bonnet See headwear. ted closely to the
chip straw Wood or straw cut in fine strips for
hats or baskets. Used for women’s hats in 18th c. body; (2) doric
and for wom en’s chip bonnets (seeunder head-
wear) in the 19th c. peplos: Worn by
chique-tades See slashings.
women from about ionic chiton worn doric chiton
800 to 550 b.c., usu- under a shawl

ally reaching to the

ankles, pinned at

the shoulder with a

large pin, made of

patterned wool, and

fitted closely to the

body; (3) ionic chi-

ton ( eye-ohn´-ik ki´-

tawn): Worn from

550 b.c. to 480 b.c.

and less often from exomis
480 b.c. to 300 b.c. helenistic chiton

by men and women, either short (for men) or

long, made of lightweight wool or of linen and

pleated. More fully cut than earlier chitons, it

had long, full sleeves fastened with many small

brooches at the shoulder; (4) doric chiton: Worn

from 400 b.c. to 100 b.c. by men and from

450 b.c. to 300 b.c. by women and made of

wool, linen, or silk, the doric chiton was gener-

ally short when worn by men and long w hen

worn by women. More narrowly fitted than the

70 chitoniskos

ionic chiton, and sleeveless, it was fastened at and hand em broidery. In

each shoulder with a single pin. (5) helenistic recent decades, boys have

chiton: Worn by women from 300 to 100 b.c., been dressed either in

similar to the doric chiton but narro wer, and white suits or in dresses.

often belted below the bosom, this chiton was Dresses for both boys

worn long and made of lightweight wool, linen, and girls today may be

or silk; (6) exomis: Worn by working-class men shorter, but would usu-

and slaves in all Greek periods, this chiton was ally cover the feet.

short and fastened over one shoulder and prob- chrome tanning See christening dress 1898

ably made from sturdy, durable wool fabric. leathers.

C chitoniskos See chiton. chronograph See watches.

chitterlings (chit-er-lings) Popular term used chronometric watch See watches.

in the 18th and 19th c. for frills or ruffles on chrysoberyl See gems, gem cuts, and settings.

front of man’s shirt. chrysolite See gems, gem cuts, and settings:

chlaine See capes, cloaks, and peridot.

shawls. chrysoprase See gems, gem cuts, and settings.

chlamydon (kla´mee-don) A chubby See coats and jackets.

type of outer ga rm ent for wom en chuddah/chudder See chaddar.

in ancient Greece that was chukka (chuh´-ka) Periods in the game of polo.

pleated to a band of fabric and Used to describe modern clothes and accessories

worn under the left arm and over similar to those worn when playing polo. See

the right shoulder. footwear: chukka boots, h e adwear: chukka

chlamys See capes, cloaks, and hat, shirts: polo shirt.

shawls. chunky heel See footwear.

Chloé * See Appendix/Designers: chunky shoe See footwear.

Karl Lagerfeld and Stella chlamydon chymer See chamarre.
McCartney. ciclaton See cyclas.

chlorspinel See gems, gem cuts, and settings: CIM See computer integrated manufacturing.

spinel. cinch 1. See belts. 2. See waistlines: chinched

choir-boy collar See necklines and collars. waistline.

choir robe Ankle-length closed robes similar to cinch buckle/cinch closing See closures: D-ring

academic go wns worn by singers in church closing.

choirs. See academic costume. cincture 1. See belts. 2. See clerical dress.

choker Term used for accessories and clothing cinglation See cyclas.

that fit high on the neck. See necklines and cingulum 1. See belts. 2. See clerical dress.

collars and jewelry. Cipullo, Aldo * See Appendix/Designers.

choli See blouses and tops. Circassian round robe (ser-kash´-yan) Early

choori-dars See pants. 1820s evening dress of gossamer gauze made

chopine See footwear. with low square-cut neckline, short sleeves, high

chou (shoo) choux (pl.) 1. Frilly pouf of fabric waistline, and skirt elaborately decorated down

used at neckline. 2. Large rosette used to trim the front and above the hem with festoons of

gowns in late 19th and early 20th c. 3. See head- knotted ribbon. Der. Caucasian tribe of Circas-

wear. 4. See hairstyles: chignon. Der. French, sia, a historical region between the western end

“cabbage.” of the Caucasus range and the Kuban River,

christening dress Any dress or suit worn by north of the Black sea.

infants for their baptism. Until the mid-20th c. Ci rcassian wrapper (ser-kash´-yan) Loose

both boys and girls wore extremely long white wrap, cut somewhat like a nightgown, worn by

dresses, elaborately trimmed with tucks, lace, women for daytime in Empire Period, 1813. Der.

Caucasian tribe of Circassia, a historical region clerical dress: alb 71
west of the Caucasus mountains and north of
the Black Sea. caught at the waist by band of ribbon, and short
circassienne Late-18th c. version of the polon- sleeves trimmed with two or three lace ruffles.
aise (a draped skirt) worn by women just before Worn in late 1840s. Der. From heroine in novel
French Revolution. Der. French, “circassian.” Clarissa, or the Hi s to ryof a Young Lady, by Samuel
circle/circular Adjective used to describegarments Richardson, published in 1747–48.
that are shaped round, like a circle. See capes, classic Apparel made in a style that continues to
cloaks, and shawls: circular, skirts: circle, be fashionable over a long period of time, and
sleeves: circle, and pockets: round pocket. that may return to hig h fashion at intervals.
circular See capes, cloaks, and shawls. When revived, classic fashions retain the basic
circular hem See clothing constructi on line of the original style, but are sometimes
details. altered in minor details, e.g., coats and jackets:
circular knit † Fabric knitted in a tubular shape cardigan, blazer, trench coat, and polo coat,
with no selvages. Made eithe r by hand or or chemise, shirtwaist dress.
machine. Hose knitted in this manner have no classic look See brooks brothers® and preppy
seams. looks.
circular ruffle Ruffle cut from circle of fabric classic pull-back See hairstyles.
rather than straight across the grain, making classification (class ) A gen eral type of mer-
graceful folds less bulky than a gathered ruffle. chandise that is housed within an individual
Also see cascade ruffle. department. Examples: s portswear, eveningwear,
circumfolding hat See headwear: opera hat. or lingerie.
ciré † (sear-ray´) Finishing process or the fabric class ring See jewelry.
produced by the process in which wax or other claw-hammer coat See coats and jackets.
compounds are applied to the surface of a fab- clayshooter’s vest See vests.
ric, after which a hot roller is passed over the clean-stitched seam See clothing construc-
surface to produce a high polish. If the fibers in tion details.
the fabric are heat sensitive, the fibers will fuse cleats See footwear.
and the effect will be permanent. cleava ge 1. See gems, gem cuts, and settings.
ciselé velvet † (seez-el-ay´) A fabric with a 2. Separati on between a woman’s breasts, m ade
raised pattern of velvet figures on a satin ground more obvious when a low neckline is worn.
formed by cut and uncut loops—with the cut clerical cape See capes, cloaks, and shawls.
pile being higher. clerical collar See clerical dress.
citrine See gems, gem cuts, and settings.
city boots See footwear. clerical dress
city pants/city shorts Terms coined by the fash-
ion-industry newspaper Women’s Wear Daily in Items of clothing worn
1968 for women’s pants or shorts suitable for by members of the clergy
town wear. Also see pants: city pants. eitherdu ring rituals being
civet cat See furs. celebrated or as a means
Claiborne, Liz * See Appendix/Designers. of identifying their cler-
clamdiggers/Clamdiggers® See pants. ical status within their
claque See headwear. religion. Also called ec-
Clara Bow hat See headwear. clesiastical dress. These
Clarence See footwear. entries do not inclu de
Clarissa Harlowe bonnet/hat See headwear. religious garb or symbols clerical dress: priest
Clarissa Harlowe cors age Evening-dress worn by lay members of a religion. Such en-
bod i ce with off-the-shoulder neckline, folds tries will be found in the alphabetical listing.

alb Full-length long-sleeved liturgical robe
(see robe #2) with drawstring neckline or

72 clerical dress: amice

cowl hood worn by priests at Mass. Originally bration of Mass in the early Christian church,

of white linen, now often of blended cotton now worn by pr iests over the cassock. Der.

and man-made fibers. Der. Latin, “white.” Latin, casula, “cloak.”

amice (am´ees) A strip of linen placed around chimere (she´-mar) /chimer Full-length sleeve-

the shoulders and tied in position to form a less robe, similar to an academic robe worn

collar worn by priests saying mass. by Anglican bishops. Extra full lawn sleeves

bäffchen See clerical dress: Geneva bands. were attached to armholes.

biretta (bi-ret´-tah) birretta/berrette/barrette cincture (sink´-cher) Twi s ted rayon, silk, or rope

1. Stiff square clerical cap with three or four belt—approximately eight fee t in length—

upright projections on top radiating from worn by clergy with the alb (see under

C center, sometimes finished with a pompon. clecrical dress). It is worn doubled, with

2. 16th-c.: a round cap that later became one end pulled through the loop and the

square on top when hatters learned to use a l ong ends hanging free. With tassels on the

rigid frame. Worn by clergy today, e.g., cardi- end, called traditional; when knotted at the

nals and bishops. end, called contemporary. Shown at cope.

calotte (ka-loht´) calot/callot Tiny, close-fitting cingulum (sin-goo´-lum) Belt worn with litur-

skullcap cut in shaped gores often with a tab gical garments since Middle Ages.

at center of top worn by Ro man clergy, clerical cape Three-quarter-length cape of wool

priests, and monks in early Ch ri s tian orders— melton with satin lining, small velvet collar,

now worn by the Pope. Also called zucchetto and braided frog closing worn by clergy.

(zook-ket´-toe). clerical collar Stiff white standing band collar

camauro (ka-mao´-row) Red velvet, ermine- worn by c lergy with suit or with liturgical

trimmed cap slightly larger than a skullcap robes. May be fastened in back as a Ro man

formerly worn by Pope of Roman Catholic collar or have a narrow opening in fro nt.

church. White collar is sometimes half covered by a

campagus (kam-pa´-gus) Shoe worn by similar black collar which may be attached to

bishops in Western Church, particularly the cassock or to a biblike rabat (see under

Roman Catholic, sometimes Episcopal. clerical dress). Also see clerical dress:

capuche See headwear. Geneva bands.

cass o ck 1. Full-length liturgical clerical front An adjustable shirt front worn

robe, made like a coat with stand- by clergymen with a black business suit or

ing collar, worn by clergy, altar under a pulpit robe. Fits around the neck

boys, and choirs, sometimes under usually with black collar on top of a white

white surplice or cotta (see collar. Ties secure the garment at the waist.

under cl erical dress). Also Usually made in black faille or wool with or

call edsoutane (soo-tahn´). 2. Short without a center pleat down the front. Also

front buttoned jacket worn by called shirt front.

clerics. clerical shirt Black or gray shirt with short or

casula (kas-oo´-lah) Latin name of long sleeves styled with a fly-front and stand-

chasuble (see under clerical cassock ing clerical collar (see under clerical

dress). dress) worn by clergymen. A second collar of

chasuble (chaz´-yu-behl) Sleeveless clerical white may be inserted inside the neckline.

garment, shaped somewhat like a p oncho Frequently has white cuffs. Formerly made of

(see under capes, cloaks, and shawls), lightweight wool, now made in wash-and-

with round neckline and open sides. Some- wear fabrics.

times has a Y-shaped band from neck to colobium (koh-lo´-bee-um) A liturgical garment

h em called the orphrey (see under clerical derived from a Roman secular garment con-

dress). Worn as part of vestments at the cele- sisting of a long linen tunic, either sleeveless

clerical dress: rochet 73

or with short sleeves. It was liturgical robe See robe #2.
replaced by the dalmatic.
cope Ornately embroidered maniple Narrow ornamental band about 31⁄2′
semi-circular mantle, fas-
tened across the chest with long, worn by Catholic priests on the left arm
an elaborate clasp arrange-
ment worn on ceremonial near the wrist.
occasions by the Pope and
dignitaries of the Roman mantelletta (mahn-tell-et´-tah) Sleeveless thigh-
Catholic Church and by cope and cincture
priests offering the Benediction. length circular-cut garment that opens in
cotta (coat´-tah) Clerical surplice made like a
full, short, white overtunic, gathered into a front and has a small collar. Worn by prelates
narrow rounded yoke with long, full bell-
shaped sleeves. Worn by clergy over cassock of Roman Catholic Church over the rochet,
and by choir members over long robes.
dalmatic See dalmatic in alphabetical listing. it is made of silk or wool with two vertical
ecclesiastical vestments Garments worn by
the clergy for religious services. slits for arms. For cardinals it is red, purple, or
fanons Two decorativ e lappets attached to
back of miter worn by the Pope, which hung rose-colored. See clerical dress: rochet.
down over the shoulders. These may origi-
nally have been used to hold the miter on the mantellone (mahn-tell-own´-nay) Purple
head. See clerical dress: miter.
ferraiolo (fair-ay-o´-lo) A full-length black ankle-length ecclesiastical mantle, worn over
circular cape worn as an outer gar ment by
clerics over other vestments for ceremonial the cassock (see under clerical dress) by
occasions such as receptions, academic occa-
sions, or banquets. lesser prelates of Papal court of the Roman
fisherman’s ring Gold ring used at investiture
of the Pope of the Roman Catholic Church. Catholic Church.
The figure of St. Peter in a fisherman’s boat
is engraved on the ring along with name of miter Very tall ornamental head-
the Pope.
Geneva bands Collar consisting of two short piece, worn by Catholic and Epis-
white linen tabs hanging down from the neck-
line, attached to a string tied around the neck. copal church dignitaries, with high
Worn mainly by clergy. Also called shortbands
and bäffchen (bef´-ken). Der. Originated by separate pointed arches in front and miter
Swiss Calvinist clergy in Geneva, Switzerland.
Geneva gow n Black clerical gown worn by back.
Calvinists and later by other Protestant clergy,
similar to an academic robe and often worn mozetta (mo-zet´-tah) Elbow-length cape with
with two vertical white linen bands at the
neck called Geneva bands. ornamental hood hanging in back, worn by
Geneva hat Wide-brimmed, high-crowned
hat worn in late 16th and early 17th c. by cardinals and church dignitaries. Der. Italian
Puritan ministers and others.
mozzare, “to cut short.”
orphrey (or´-free) Y-shaped band of embroi-

dery decorating the chasuble (see under

clerical dre s s) that extends from each

shoulder meeting vertical stripe in center

front and back. Also spelled orfray, orfrey.

pallium A narrow band of white wool that was

worn by p opes and archbishops. Prelates

wore the band w ith one end falling to the

front and the other to the back.

parament (pa´-ra-ment) Synonym for an orna-

mental Ecclesiastical vestment.

pileolus/pilleolus (pil-eh´-oh-lus) Skullcap

worn by Catholic priests and pope under the

miter and ti a ra (seeunder cl erical dress).

Der. Latin, “skullcap.”

rabat (rab-e; ra-bat) Black dickey o r shirt

front to which the white clerical collar is

attached (see under clerical dress). Worn

with suits or with liturgical robes by Catholic

and Protestant clergy.

rochet (rash´-et) Similar to a surplice (see

under clerical dress) and worn especially

by bishops and abbots.





76 closures: close-plate buckle

close-plate buckle Shoe buckle of late double-breasted closi ng See double-

1660s to 1680s made of tutania—an alloy of bre asted in alphabetical listing.

tin, antimony, and copper—cast in a mold by D-ring closure 1. See closures: ring buckle.

a street peddler in about fifteen minutes. 2. Closings on footwear that are D-shaped

coats See closures: breasts. through which shoe laces are threaded.

collar button See closures: stud. fly-front closing Buttonholes, or zippe r, in-

covered button Ball or disk-type button cov- serted under a placket. Developed in latte r

ered with fabric either matching or contrast- half of 19th c. for overcoats, particularly the

ing with garment. Kits of various-sized disks chesterfield, and used on men’s or women’s

to be covered may be purchased by the home trousers.

C sewer. First used in latter part of 16th c. The foil button Silk pasted on paper and glued to

but ton industry in the United States was reverse side of glass but ton; paten ted in 1774.

started in 1826 by Mrs. Samuel Williston, wife French portrait buttons But tons worn abo ut

of a storekeeper in East Hampshire, Mass., 1790 with profiles of famous people in light

who first covered wooden buttons by hand. color mounted against a black silk ba ck-

Later she invented a machine for this purpose ground and surrounded w ith a rim of tin

and her factory was credited with one-half of (e.g., profiles of Lafayette, Mirabeau, and

the world production of buttons. Louis XVI).

covered zipper Zipper made with fabric tape frog Ornamental fastener using cord-

covering teeth so that teeth do not show when ing or braid through which a soft

zipper is closed. ball made of cording or a button is frog

crocheted button Shank-type buttons made pulled. Used for closing garments, especially

by crocheting over a disk, a ball, or a barrel- military uniforms and some Chinese clothes.

shaped object. Sometimes used on sweaters When introduced in the West from China in

and formerly used on dresses and coats in last quarter of 18th c., they were named

Victorian era and early 19th c. Brandenburgs after braid-trimmed uniforms

cuff button 1. Sm a ll but ton, usu a llyof mother- worn by Brandenburg troops of Prussia dur-

of-pearl, sewed on shirt cuff to fasten it. In tro- ing the Napoleonic War. Also called olivettes.

duced in 19th c. and used in lieu of cuff links. galosh closure Closing with a metal hook on

2. Late 17th c.: used to describe two met a l one side that clips into a metal fastener with

disks connected by links used to replace ear- several slots in order to adjust the degree of

lier cuff string (see under closures). tightness. A closing used for such garments as

cuff string String pulled through eyelets on raincoats, coats, and jackets. Der. Similar to

cuff to fasten it. Used in lieu of a button in the closings for galoshes in the early 20th c.

17th c. Also called sleeve string. glitter button Any type of button set with

cut-steel buckle Popular bu ckle of early 20th c. rhinestones or imitation gems. Also see

made of polished steel with jewel-like facets. closures: rhinestone button.

Used on silk or moiré afternoon or evening glove button Tiny buttons, usually round and

shoes and on belts. often pearlized, used to button long gloves.

death’s head button Domed 18th-c. but- gold button Any type of gold colored button,

ton covered with metal thread or mohair formerly solid gold or plated. Henry VIII had
forming an X on top like the cross of the skull jeweled gold buttons made to match his rings.

and crossbones. A record of the 15th c. notes 25 golden but-

Dorset thread button Brass wire ring cov- tons, each set with seven pearls, at a cost of

ered with cotton threads radiating from cen- 200 gold pieces. In the 16th c., gold buttons

ter to form a flat button; used on underwear set with diamonds and other precious stones

from about 1700 to 1830. were frequently used.

gripper closure Metal fastener in the shape of closures: shoe buckle 77
a large snap used on some typ es of jackets
and raincoats. Also used on children’s and mother-of-pearl button Button made fro m
infants’ clothing, particularly at crotch of nacre, the inside shell of the oys ter. First
pajamas, panties, and pants to enable them to m a nufactured in U.S. in 1885 from imported
be put on more easily. mollusks and later fro m domestic oysters
found in Chesapeake Bay.
hasp Decorative silver fastening, similar to
hook and eye (see under closures). Used neck button Decorative but ton of mid-
for fastening coats in 17th and 18th c. 17th c. worn at neck o f doublet and held
closed by loop on opposite side to reveal the
hip buttons Term used from late 17th to fine shirt underneath.
end of 19th c. for pair of buttons placed on
either side of center back pleats of man’s suit olive button Long, oval-shaped, silk-covered
coat. button worn from mid-18th c. on.

hook and eye Closing using a small metal olivette See closures: frog.
hook on one side and either an embroidered pearl button Classic button for almost any
loop or a small metal loop on the other side.
Used extensively for shirtwaists and dresses use, originally made from shells. Sometimes
with back closings in late 19th and early 20th called “ocean pearl” until developm ent of plas-
c. Almost entirely replaced by the zipper on tic in the 1930s, after which imitation pearl
contemporary clothing. buttons were widely used. Also see closures:
mother-of-pearl button.
hook and loop closu re See closures: piped buttonhole But tonhole similar to bound
velcro®. buttonhole in which piping (see under
clothing construction details) is used
industrial zipper See closures: zipper. around the opening.
laced closing Leather thong or cord lace d poker chip button Extra-large round, flat
button with a shank on the back. Der. From
through small metal or embroidered eyelets. size and shape of a poker chip.
Popular method of fastening garments in rhinestone button Any button set with stones,
Middle Ages and in late 1960s. Also used for made of glass or paste (see under jewelry),
shoes from 18th c. on. Also see points in that simulates a diamond.
alphabetical listing. ring buckle Two rings on one end of belt
lacing studs See closures: speed lacing. through which opposite be lt end threads—
latch buckle Round, square, or oblong metal first through both, then back through one—
plates attached to each end of a belt and and pulls tight. When rings are made in the
closed over one another. A swivel from one shape of a “D,” called a D-ring buckle. Also
end of the belt slips through a slot in the other called cinch buckle or cinch closing. Borrowed
end and turns to fasten. from fastenings on horse bridles and saddle
Leek button Shank-type button with metal straps and used mainly on belts and cuffs of
edge surrounding a metal shell or mold of sleeves.
pasteboa rd made at Leek, England, and self-covered button See closures: covered
patented in 1842. button.
loop and button Closing with a series of shank button Button w ith metal or plastic
corded loops on one side and covered or loop on the back.
round buttons on the other side. Used for its shirt button Small mother-of-pearl or imita-
decorative effect. Sometimes used on wed- tion pearl button with four holes and a ridge
ding dresses. around the edge. Originally used on men’s
machine-made buttonhole Buttonhole made shirts.
on a sewing machine with a zig-zag stitch or shoe buckle Buckles worn on the shoe were
by a special attachment. very popular in France and Italy about 1660

78 closures: single-breasted closing

and in England during reign of Charles II snap to close coats, collars, sleeves, and cuffs.

(1660–1685). Also fashionable in colonial Popular closing for car coats from mid-1960s.

America until about 1770. At first intended to tailored buttonhole See closures: worked

hold shoe in place, the buckle was small in buttonhole.

size and worn with a butterfly bow (see tied cl osing 1. Type of closing used on a

under footwear), later re ach edlarger dimen- wrap-style garment (e.g., a sash used on bath-

sions. Also see closures: buckle and Pinch- robes, wrap dresses, and skirts to hold the

beck. Revived in 1870s and at end of 19th garment closed). 2. Series of ties used to fas-

and early 20th c., but limited to women’s ten a garment.

shoes. Revived for both men’s and women’s toggle closure Rod-shaped button, usually

C shoes in late 1960s. of wood, attached by rope loop on one side of

single-breasted closing See single-bre asted garment and pulled through similar loop on

in alphabetical listing. opposite side. Also see coats and jackets:

sleeve button 1. Button at wrist to close cuff toggle coat.

or sleeve. 2. Decorative trim used on sleeves Velcro® Trademark for a tape woven w ith

of man’s suit coat consisting of two or three minute nylon hooks that mesh with loops on

buttons placed on outside of cuff. This partic- opposite tape. Used on children’s and adults’

ular fashion originated in the 18th c. when clothing, sportswear, and shoes. First used by

large cuffs were worn buttoned back to the astronauts. Gen eric term for this type of cl o-

sleeve. sure is hook and loop.

sleeve string See closures: cuff string. wooden button Made in all sizes and shapes—

slide fastener See closures: zipper. may be in ball shape with shank on back or

snail button Covered butto n ornamented disk-shaped. In the late 1930s, larger saucer-

with French knots (see embroideries and shaped buttons tied on with matching corded

sewing stitches) used on men’s coats and fabric were used on women’s coats.

waistcoats in 18th c. worked buttonhole Buttonhole made by cov-

snap closure Metal fastener used to close a ering the raw edges of a slit in the fabric with

garment at places where there is little strain. hand or machine stitches. In hand-worked

Rep l aced almost entirely in con tempora ry ga r- buttonholes, first the slit is made, then the

ments by zippers and grippers (see under raw edges are covered by embroidering them

closures). with a bu ttonhole stitch. Machine-made

speed lacing Closing on boot c onsisting of worked buttonholes are stitched first, then

metal hooks replacing eyelets for upper part cut open. A stitch similar to the buttonhole

of lacing. Used particularly on ice skates, ski stitch is made by the sew ing machine. The

boots, and hiking boots. Also called button shapes of worked buttonholes may vary as

hooks or lacing studs. follows: barred or rectangular

storm flap Large flap that covers a zipper and buttonhole Worked buttonhole barred
has buttons and buttonholes to keep the flap with st raight bar, called a bar buttonhole

in place. tack, em broidered across the ends.

stud Small ornamental closure used since the oval buttonhole Worked button- oval
mid-18th c. that is not fastened to the shirt. hole with fan-shaped arrangement buttonhole

Consists of a broader section, a short post, of stitches at both ends. tailored

and a smaller buttonlike end that is inserted buttonhole Worked buttonholes tailored
through an eyelet to fasten a shirt front, neck- with a bar tack at one end and a buttonhole

band, or cuffs. Also called collar button. fan-shaped arrangement of stitches at the

surplice cl osing See closures: wrap closing. other end. keyhole buttonhole Worked but-

tab/tabbed closi ng An extra flap, strap, or loop tonhole with a bar tack at one end and an area

of fabric, used with buttonhole, buckle, or of much enlarged fan-shaped stitches at the

clothing construction details: bound buttonhole 79

other so as to allow a place for the button ing uses more hand sew- dress with various
shank to rest. ing. See embroideries construction features
wrap closing Closing by wrapping one side of and sewing stitches
garment over the other and holding with a for specific stitches used.
belt, sash, button, or snap. details The individual
zipper Although the name “zipper” was coined components within the
and registered as a trademark by B. F. Good- structure of a garment
rich Co. in 1925, the forerunner of this device that are combined in
was invented in 1891 by Witcomb B. Judson. order to create the final,
He called it a clasp locker . The design was functional garment.
improved by Gideon Sundback who manu-
factured Hookless Fasteners used for corsets, accordion pleats Folds in fabrics
gloves, sleeping bags, money belts, and that are named for their resem-
tobacco pouches. Goodrich used zippers in blance to the folds of the musical
“Zipper boots.” By the 1930s zippers were so instrument called an accor dion. accordion
widely used in garments ranging from hand-
bags to men’s trousers that “zipper” became pleats
a generic term applied to any toothed, slide
fastener. This device consists of parallel rows Smaller at the top but larger at the
of metal or nylon teeth on adjacent edges of bottom, the lower edge of the hem shows a
an opening, interlocked by sliding tab. Teeth zigzag pattern. An accordion-pleated skirt
may be covered by fabric tape and almost takes a full circle of fabric. First used in the
invisible or made in va rious lengths to use late 1880s. Synonyms: sunburst pleats and fan
on necklines, skirt plackets, coat and jac ket pleats.
fronts, or handbags and pockets. Large-sized asymmetric hem Hem of
zippers, originally used for upholstery and u n even length—may be
industrial uses, were adopted for decorative long in back and short in
trim on clothing in mid-1960s and were front or slanted diagonally
called industrial zippers. from one side to the other.
The latter has been popular
clot See footwear. since the late 1960s. All
cloth Synonym for textile fabric. types of uneven hemlines
clothe 1. To put on garments. 2. To provi de were popular in the 1980s.
ba cki ng L ayer of fabric
with clothing. placed underneath the outer
cloth embroidery See embroideries and sew- fabric of a garment. Its func- asymmetric hem 1920
tion is generally to support the outer fabric.
ing stitches. barred buttonhole See closures: worked
clothes Collective term for all items of apparel buttonhole.
bias pleats Pressed-down pleats made in
worn on the body by men, women, and children. fabric cut on the diagonal, usually stitched
Der. Anglo-Saxon, cläthas, plu ral of cläth, “cloth.” down a few inches at top to make them hang
Synonyms: apparel, attire, clothing, costume, dre ss, better.
garb, garment, raiment, vestments. binding Narrow fabric str ips used to cover
seams or raw edges of clothing. May be cut on
clothing the bias or on straight grain.
construction details bound An adjective describing a raw edge of a
garment or part of a garment that has been
clothing construction The process of making finished either with band of machine stitch-
a garment by hand or machine sew ing or ing, bias binding, or tape.
both. Mass production generally relies on bound buttonhole See closures.
machine processes while made-to-order cloth-

80 clothing construction details: bound seam

bound seam Edges of plain seam corded seam Plain seam with cord

bound with bias binding (see clot h- inside bias binding inserted in

ing construction details: bind- seam before the seam is stitched so

ing). Used particularly on seams of that covered cord appears as deco-

unlined jackets and around neck- bound ration along the seam. This tech-
seam nique was widely used in clothing corded seam
lines, armholes, and jackets in con-
construction in the early through the mid-
trasting color for decoration.

box pleat Pleat made by making 19th c.

two folds in fabric, the edges of crystal pleats Very fine, heat-set ridges usu-

which face in opposite directions. ally used in sheer nylon or polyester fabrics.

C Sometimes bo x pleats may be box pleats Also see clothing construction details:

stitched down for some distance before the mushroom pleat.
da rt Sewing term for V-shaped
fullness is released.

b road -st i tched seam See cl othing con- tuck used to make garment

struction details: top-stitched seam. conform to the bod y. Used

buttonhole See closures. frequently at shoulders, waist,

cartridge pleats Small rounded pleats, like or in side seam under the arm. darts diagram

very large gathers. Used quite extensively for double ruffle Strip of fabric stitched in the

gathering skirts in the mid-1800s. Der. from center and gathered to form a ruffle on either

their resemblance to cartridge loops on mili- side of stitching.

tary belts. double-stitched seam See clothing con-

casi ng Fa bric sti tched in su ch a way as to struction details: top-stitched seam.

form a tunnel through which elastic, a cord, ease 1. v. The process of joining

or a drawstring is drawn. Types o f casings a slightly larger garment piece

include (1) fold-down casing, formed by to a smaller garment piece by

turning down and stitching an extension at evenly distributing the fullness

the edge of a garment. (2) applied casing, along the seam where the pieces

formed by folding a separate strip of fabric, a re joined. 2. n. The fullness ease
stitching it to form a tunnel, and then apply- produced when garment pieces

ing it to some part of a garment. are eased.

ci rcular hem Hem put in a full circular or envelope pleats Large inverted pleat (see

gored skirt. If narrow, hem is machine- under cl othing con structi on details)

stitch edor hand-rolled. Deeper hems have full- placed at the side seam of dress skirt and

ness worked in with tiny darts or gathers reveals a pocket underneath when one ed ge

or may have a facing applied. ( See cross is pulled aside.

references under clothing construction eyelet See in alphabetical list.

details). faced hem Use of another piece of fabric, usu-

clean-stitched seam Plain seam ally lighter in weight and bias cut, sewed on at

pressed open on w rong side of base of hem, turned up, and fin-

garment with the raw edges turned ished like a plain hem. Usually

under and stitched so they will clean-stitched used when dress or pants are to faced hem
not ravel. be made longer or the garment
seam

cluster pleats Pressed or unpressed pleats is very flared.

arranged in groups. Usually consisting of a facing Fabric piece attached to the raw edge of

large box pleat with several small knife some part of a garment in order to finish that

pleats on either side. See under clothing edge. Facings are used in areas such necklines,

construction details. armholes of sleeveless dress, and openings at

clothing construction details: hem 81

the front or back. Hems may gathering Drawing up full-

also be faced. The verb to face ness along several threads

describes the act of applying in a row of sti tching. Also

a facing. see cl othing con stru cti on

fan pleats See clothing con- details: shirring.

struction details: accor- gauging See clothing con- gathers

dion pleat. struction details: shirring.

feather boning See clot h- facings at armhole, godet (go-day´) Triangular piece ,
neck, and front
ing con struction details: sometimes rounded at top and

stay #1. closing flaring at the base, set into a

fell seam See clothing construction de- skirt or sleeve to give added

tails: flat-felled seam. fullness. See cl othing con-

flat felled seam Seam created by struction details: gore and

placing the undersides of garment gusset. godet

pieces together and stitching a seam godet pleats (go-day´) Pleats that hang in

of about 5/8″ wide that appears on the a series of rolls forming a gored skirt, popular

right sides. One edge of the seam is flat-felled in 1890s. Also called pipe-organ pleats.
then cut off to 1/8″ and the other edge seam
gore 1. Skirt section, wider at

folded over cut edge. Both are then pressed hem than top, providing full-

flat in the same direction and the folded edge ness and shaping to waist with-

is top-stitched. As a result, two rows of stitch- out using darts. A four-gore

ing appear on outside. This creates a very skirt has seams at sides, center

durable seam. Also called fell seam. front, and center back; six-gore
skirt has side-front and side- six gored skirt
flat pleats See cl othing constructi on

details: knife pleats. back seams as well as side seams. There may

fluted hem Tiny hem finished with picot edge be as many as twenty-four gores in a skirt.

(see picot #2) in a sheer nylon fabric which is 2. In sewing, a triangular insert of fabric that

set in crystal pleats. The edge gives a serpen- creates fullness, greater w idth, or desired

tine effect winding outward and inward. shape. Used in skirts and bell-bottom pants.

french seam Seam created by plac- Also used in gloves at wrist, to make a flared

ing the unders i des of ga rm ent pieces cuff and facilitate opening. Also called godet.

together and stitching a seam that gusset 1. Diamond-shaped piece

appears on the ri ght sides. This seam of fabric inserted under the arm

is trimmed, then the fabric is folded of sleeve or in the crotch seam to

so that the outsides of the fabric french seam permit greater movement. 2. Tri-

pieces are together. A seam is then angular piece used at sides of

stitched that encases the previously stitched handbag, at sides of men’s shirt-

seam. This seam is mostly used on transpar- tails, and sides of shoes for wider gusset #1

ent and lightweight fabrics that ravel. opening.

fused hem Hem created with special tape handkerchief hem Hem that

that when pressed with a hot iron melts and falls in points similar to when

adheres to the fabric. Som etimes loosens wh en a handkerchief is held in the

garment is washed or dry cleaned. Introduced center and allowed to fall.

in the 1960s. heading Small hem through

fused seam Seam made in plastic or vinyl by which elastic is pulled. handkerchief hem

heating edges to be joined. Also called welded hem The lower edge of an item of clothing,

seam. such as a skirt or blouse, or of sleeves.

82 clothing construction details: inverted pleat

i nverted pleat Pleat formed by raveling. 2. Seam made on inside of

bringing two folds to a center line garment with both raw edges over-

and pressing them. Reverse side of inverted cast together either by hand or
s everal inverted pleats will look pleats machine.

like box pleats. overlapped seam See clothing overcast
kick pleats Single flat pleat or one knife construction details: lap seam. seam

pleat (see under clothing construction petal hem Hem that falls in rounded sections

details) at the back or front of a narrow skirt similar to petals of a flower.

to make walking easier. picot hem Hem finished with a row of machine

kilt pleats Flat pleat covering half of next hemsti tching—then cut apart—used on ruffles

C pleat, all folded in the same direction as in a to reduce bulkiness. Popular in the 1920s. See

Scottish kilt. embroideries and sewing stitches: hem-

knife pleats Pressed in pleats, usu- stitch #2.

a lly placed 1⁄2″ to 1″ apart. All pleats pinked Describes seams or other fabric

go in the same direction. Also knife pleats areas that have been finished by trim-
ming raw edges with a pinking shears,
called flat or side pleats.

lapped seam Simple seam used on interfacing which makes saw-toothed edges to

and also in shoe and glove construction. One prevent raveling. pinking

layer of material is placed on top of another pin tu cks See cl othing constructi on

and topstitched. Excess material is trimmed details: tucks.

away. piped buttonhole See closures.

lettuce edging Na rrow-hemmed finish for pipe organ pleats See clothing construc-

edges of garments that creates the appearance tion details: godet pleat.

of a curly lettuce leaf. piping A folded piece of bias binding. Piping

l i ngerie hem Roll ed hem with may be inserted between two layers of fabric

overcast stitches at intervals before stitching to create a decorative effect

forming minute puffs between as, for example, in piped seams. Piped seams

stitches. Handmade hem popu- are similar to corded seams but have a flat

lar in the 1920s and still used lingerie hem rather than a rounded edge.
occasionally. placket Word used since the 16th

machine-made buttonhole See c. for slit at neck, side, front,

closures. back, or wrist in dress, blouse,

miter To finish a square corner with pants, or skirt to facilitate taking

a diagonal seam. mitered garment on and off. Fastened in placket
early times by lacings, buttons, or hooks and
mushroom pleats Very fine, heat- corner

s et pleats similar to crystal pleats (see eyes; since 1930s by zippers, and since 1970s

under clothing constructi on details). by Velcro®. A side placket is an opening

Der. From appearance of the inside cap of placed in side seam of a dress or blouse to

the mushroom. facilitate putting on a fitted dress. It extends

nun’s tucks Tucks, usually of 2″ or more in about 4″ above and below waistline. Origi-

width, placed around the hem of a dress or nally fastened with snaps (see under clo-

used on sleeves in a series of three, five, or sures), later side plackets closed by a special

seven. type of zipper. Most dresses had this type of

open-welt seam See clothing con struction opening from 1930s to 1950s. Replaced by

details: tucked seam. long back zippers extending from neckline to

overcast seam 1. Plain seam pressed open on hips.

wrong side and each raw edge finished by plain hem Hem folded up and hand-sewn.

hand or machine overcast stitches to prevent The edge of the hem may be finished to pre-

clothing construction details: topstitching 83

vent raveling by various means by using a large stitch on the sewing machine
and then pulling the bobbin thread to form
such as turning the hem edge plain hem gathers or by using elastic thread on the
under and mac hine stitching, bobbin.
shoulder dart V-shaped dart, extending from
pinking (see clothing construction de- mid-shoulder seam to bust, or from shoulder
seam to shoulder blade in back.
tails: pinked), or sewing tape to the edge by side pla cket See clothing construction
details: placket.
machine after which hand stitches are used to side pleats See clothing constr uction
details: knife pleats.
finish the hem. slot seam Seam created by folding
under the edge of each of two gar-
plain seam Simple seam stitched on wrong ment pieces, laying the edges facing
each other over a tape or strip of
side of garment usually pressed open. Used fabric, and topstitching the folded slot seam
edges through the underlying fabric. This
on a fabric that will not ravel. technique is often used to create a contrast in
color or fabric between the underlying fabric
pleat/plait 1. n. Fold of fabric usually pressed and the top garment fabric.
stay 1. Strip of material, originally whalebone
flat but sometimes left unpressed. When used but now usually thin metal or plastic, placed
behind or within seams or darts and used to
in a skirt, blouse, or dress, it is sometimes stiffen such garments as corsets, bodices, col-
lars, or belts. Light boning used particularly
stitched down at the top of the garment to at hem of skirt to extend it is called feather
boning. 2. Piece of fabric sti tched under
make it hang better. In polyester and nylon pleats or gathers to hold fullness in place.
strap seam Plain seam stitched with
fabrics, pleats may be put in permanently with wrong sides together, thereby making
the seam on the outside of the gar-
a heat-setting process. 2. v. To set in folds. ment. The seam is pressed open. Bias
tape, with the ed ges folded under, is strap
rolled hem Handmade hem laid over the open seam and top- seam
stitched into place.
used on sheer and delicate stud See closures.
sunburst pleats See clothing constru ction
fabrics. First rolled between details: accordion pleat.
sun bu rst tu cks Used in a series, these are
the fingers, then sewed with darts that taper to nothing. May be arranged
around the neckline of a dress, on the front of
tiny stitches. Used for chiffon the blouse, or at the front of the waistline.
evening gowns of the 1920s rolled hem Provide a decorative e ffect and reduce full-
ness without gathers. Also called fan tucks.
and 1930s, and still used occasionally. tailored buttonhole See closures: worked
buttonhole.
saddle-stitched seam See footwear. topstitching Stitching visible from the outer
or “top” side of a garment that consists of one
saw-toothed hem Faced hem made with

poi n ted edges.

sca lloped hem Faced hem made with

rounded edges simulating a shell design.

seam The place at wh i ch two or more layers of

tex tile material or leather are sewn together.

A variety of stitches and techniques can be

utilized in creating seams. See indiv idual

types of seams listed under clothing con-

struction details and gloves and glove

constructions.

s eam binding Narrow tape woven on the

straight used at hem of garment to cover raw

edge. Also stitched to seams on wrong side to

prevent stretching. Sometimes used to bind

cut edges of raveled seams.

shirring Three or more rows

of gathers made by small

running stitches in parallel

lines. Used to produce full-

ness at tops of gloves, skirts,

sleeves, and swimsuits. Also

called gauging. May be made shirring