fashion-dictionary-sample1

236 Hartnell, Sir Norman

as handwoven woolen fabric from the Hebrides Hawes, Elizabeth (1903–1971) American designer

Islands, off the coast of Scotland, consisting of and an author who is best known for her auto-

Ha rris, Lewis, Uist, Barra, and other smaller biography Fashion Is Spinach, which provided

islands. Th ere are two types a) made from hand- insights about the construction of clothing as

spun yarn, and b) made from machine-made done by a Parisian couture house.

yarn. Used mainly for women’s coats styled in a headband See headwear.

classic manner. head cloth See headwear: kerchief.

Hartnell, Sir Norman * See A ppendix/ headdress Synonym for headwear.

Design ers . heading See clothing construction details.

harvest hat See headwear. head rail See headwear: kerchief.

hasp See closures. headwear
hat See headwear.

hatband Decoration, usually of ribbon, around headwear Covering for the head, a headcover-

the base of the crown of a hat. In former years, ing. He adwear may be decorative orutilitarian

men wore black hatbands for mourning. or both. It may also serve as a symbol of sta-

hatbox 1. Initially a circular-shaped item of lug- tus, e.g., a crown (seeunder headwear). The

gage with a strap handle and flat bottom that category of headwear is often divided among

was originally made to carry large hats in the different-named types of headwear. The defi-

1920s. Now carried by fashion models or used nitions of types of headwear are found under

by stores when selling a hat. These boxes may the category of headwear in the following

be round, oval, hexagonal, or square in shape. entries: bonnet, cap, hat, helmet, veil. It is

2. See bandbox. often difficult to assign a head covering to one

hatbox bag See handbags and related acces- type, so individually named items each have a

sories. separate entry. The components of bonnets,

hat cap See headwear. caps, hats, and helmets generally include the
brim, which is the rim of
H hat mask See masks. hat and may be narrow to
hat pin See headwear.

hauberk See armor. wide—worn level, turn ed

haunseleyns See doublet. down, up, or to a variety

hausse-cul See bum roll. of angles, and the crown,

haut de chausses See chausses. which is the portion that poke-type bonnet
haute couture (oat koo′-toor) 1. As defined by covers the top of the head.

the Chambre Syndicale de la Parisienne,

firms that create models that may be sold to almuce (al′-mus) A cowl-like hood , fre-

private customers or to other segments of the quently of fur or fur-lined, introduced in the

fashion industry who also acquire the right to 13th c., when it was worn by the clergy for

reproduce the designs. Designers show at least church services in inclement weather.

two collections a year of original designs to the Alpine hat Various types of hats

public. An original design is not the on ly one adapted from Bava rian and Au s-

of its kind, but means only that the garment was trian Tyrolean hats. 1. One con-

designed and made in the atelier of the designer. tem porary version for men is

2. As currently used in the United States and in of fur felt, with a slight pile, a alpine hat #1

the fashion press, refers to the latest and most slightly peaked crown with a crease in the

advanced fashions; high fashion. center, and an upturned brim in the back.

haut ton See undergarments. Popular since 1940s as a man’s sport hat, it

havelock See headwear. was first introduced in the late 1890s. Also

havelock cap See headwear: automobile cap. called a Tyrolean hat. 2. Woman’s hat with

Hawaiian shirt See shirts. high crown and medium-sized brim worn in















244 headwear: chapeau claque

headwear) or crescent-shaped, made ex- satin wound around a padded roll. 5. 17th-c.

pressly to be carried under arm; from 1760s term used for a short rosary or set of beads

to 1830s in France, England, and United worn on the neck.

States. By 1830, generally called broken hat. Charlotte Very large brimmed hat with lace

Also see headwear: opera hat. 2. Woman’s ruffle at edge, worn drooping over forehead,

crush bonnet, or calash (see under head- sometimes worn over a lacy cap. Crown richly

wear), that folded small enough to be carried decorated with wide loops and bows of rib-

in handbag or under the arm. Worn to con- bon. Worn in mid-1780s. Der. Named for

certs and opera in early 19th c. England. Der. Queen Charlotte of England (1744–1818),

French, “arm-hat.” married to George III of England. Style later

chapeau claque (sha-po′ klack) See head- return ed to popularity somewhat modified

wear: opera hat. in late 19th and early 20th cs. Both styles also

chapeau cloche Small crown ed hat with called chapeau à la Charlotte.

wide drooping brim worn by women in 1860s Charlotte Corday cap Indoor cap worn in

to protect face from the sun. daytime in 1870s, made with puffed muslin

chapel cap Small round cap that fits on the crown gathered into a band, sometimes had a

back of the head, sometimes lace-trimmed, ruffle around edge, sometimes with lappets.

matched to choir robes, and worn by women Der. Named for Charlotte Cord ay, who

of choir for church services. assassinated Marat, a leader of the French

chapel cap/chapel veil Small circle of lace or Revolution.

tulle, frequently edged with a ruffle, worn by chechia Adaptati on for wom en in the late 1930s

wom en over top of headwhile inside a church. and early 1940s of a felt hat with a tassel—sim-

chaperon (shap′-er-ohn) 1. Used as gen- ilar to a fez but more peaked in shape—that

eral designation for a hood during the Middle was worn by Al gerian and Moroccan children.

Ages. Worn largely by men but also occasion- cheek wrappers See headwear: dormeuse.

H ally by working-class women. chef’s hat Tall, white full-crowned fabric hat
2. Anglo-Fren ch term for a starched to stand up stiffly. Set into the head-

fitted hood cut in one with a band with 100 pleats, which originally indi-

shoulder cape (called a gole, col- cated that the chef could cook eggs 100 ways.

let, gorget, or guleron), which Also called hundred pleater. The more impor-

was worn from the late 12th c. tant the chef—the taller the hat.

until the mid-15th c. The hood chignon cap Small cap made in a vari ety of

had a long pendant tail called a chaperon #2 co l ors and fabrics worn over the chignon in
liripipe (lir′-ee-peep) in 14th c. with liripipe the 1930s and 1940s. Popular again in the 1960s

3. Dra ped vers i on of the chaperon popular and 1970s—usually made of croch eted wool—

in the 15th c. in which the cape was rolled and called a bun-warmer or bun snood.

and tied with the extended tail of the hood to chignon strap Band of ri bbon fastened to

form a turbanlike headress. 4. Woman’s soft woman’s hat that passes around back of

hood in the 17th c. Also spelled chaperone, head and under the chignon to hold hat firm ly.

chaperonne. Also called cappuccio. Worn in the 1860s and 1870s, again in the

chaplet 1. Originally a garland of flowers 1940s and 1950s.

for the head worn by Anglo-Saxon men and chimney pot hat See headwear: top hat.

women on festive occasions. 2. In 15th c. such chin stays Term used in 1830s for ruffles of

a garland was worn only by a bride. 3. Circlet, tulle or lace added to bonnet strings forming

or metal band set with gems, worn by both a frill when tied under chin. Synonym: men-

m en and wom en in 14th, 15th, and 16th c. tonnieres (men-ton-yehr′).

Also called a coronal of goldsmithry. 4. In late chip bonnet Coarse, inexpensive straw bon-

14th and 15th cs., a headband of twisted silk or n et made of strips or shavings of wood, or

woody material, imported from Italy and headwear: coif 245
used for millinery in the 19th c.
chou (shoo) choux (pl.) Soft, crushed-crown was sometimes fastened with buttons and
hat similar to mobcap (see under headwear). loops to crown—first one side, then two sides,
Der. French, “cabbage.” and eventually three sides forming a tricorne.
chukka hat (chuh′-ka) Domed hat with small Ma ny variati ons developed, e ach invo lving
brim copied from hats worn by polo players. indivi dual details. Named types include:
Similar to, but not as high as, English police- (1) bully-cock, an 18th-c. term for a broad-
man’s hat. Der. Named for divisions of polo brimmed, three-corn ered cocked hat; (2) con-
game called chukkars. tinental hat, a three-cornered hat with a wide
circumfolding hat See h e adwear: opera hat. upturned brim worn with the point placed at
claque See headwear: opera hat. center front. Worn by the Continental army
Clara Bow hat Trademark for various styles du ring the Am erican Revolution. Rank of offi-
of felt hats for women in late 1920s. The beret cers was denoted by various colors of cock-
and cloche styles were the most popular. Der. ades worn on the left side of the hat; (3) Den-
Named after Clara Bow, famous movie star mark cock Man’s three-cornered hat of the
of the 1920s. second half of the 18th c. with three sides of
Cla r issa Harlowe bonnet/hat Pictu red in the hat turn ed up, the back higher than the
1857 as a wide-brimmed, lace-trimmed hat front; (4) Dettigen cock Man’s cocked hat of
with droo ping sides and a small rounded the 18th c. with the brim turned up equally in
crown with large ostrich plume placed so it three sections; (5) Kevenhuller cock Man’s
curved from the crown over the back brim three-cornered hat worn from 1740s to the
of hat. In 1879, described as a bonnet made of 1760s, cocked with the front forming a peak
legh orn straw (see headwear: l eghorn hat) and turned up higher in back. (6) Monmouth
with a large brim lined with velvet, worn cock Broad-brimmed hat of the second half
tilted on the forehead—popular until 1890s. of the 17th c. turned up or cocked in back.
Der. From heroine in novel Clarissa, or the Also see headwear: tricorne. 2. Contem-
History of a Young Lady, by Samuel Richard- porary hat inspired by any of the historic
son, published in 1747–48. versions of a cocked hat.
clip hat See headwear: bicycle-clip hat. cockle hat Hat trimmed with a scallop shell,
cloche (klohsh) Deep-crowned hat with very worn by pilgr ims returning from the Holy
narrow brim or brimless, fitting Land during the crusades in the 11th to 13th
head closely, almost concealing all c. Der. French, coquille, “shell.”
of the hair. Worn pull ed down coffer headdress Woman’s small box-shaped
almost to eyebrows, fashionable in headdress of 14th c. usually worn over top of
1920s and again in 1960s. Der. cloche hair with coiled braids over the ears.
French, “bell.” coif (kwaf) 1. White headdress worn
coal-scuttle bonnet Bonnet of mid-19th c. by nuns of some orders under the
with a large, stiff brim with peak in center veil. 2. From 12th to 15th c., linen
front. Der. Shaped like the scoo p called a headcovering similar to a baby ’s bon- coif #2
scuttle that was used to pick up coal and put net tied under chin. Art of the period 13th c.
it into the fire. shows it to have been worn by indivi duals from
cocked hat 1. Man’s hat many levels of society and by soldiers and
worn from late 17th to early knights under metal helmets. By the 16th c. it
19th c. with wi de brim. To was more likely to be worn by the aged and
avoid weather sag and dete- the learned professions. Coif may be a mod-
ri oration, it became the fash- ern term applied to this headwear. 3. From
ion to turn up brim, which cocked hat 16th to 19th c., an under cap worn mainly by
women. In the late 16th c. and early 17th c.
the cap was sometimes embroi dered, with sides

246 headwear: commander’s cap

curved forward to cover the ears. These were blance to a loaf of sugar. Also called pantile.

called cheeks-and-ears. Similar caps were called Also spelled copatain, copintank, coppintanke,

o rrelets, or round-eared caps. 4. Also see h e ad- copytank, coptank.

wear: biggin. cornet 1. See headwear: hennin.

commander’s cap See headwear: astro- 2. Dark-colored velvet cap similar to a

naut’s cap. bongrace (see under headwear) worn

commode 1. A silk-covered wire frame of from 17th to 19th c. 3. Day cap with

the late 17th and early 18th c. that was used rounded caul; tied under the chin, in first half

to su pport the high fontanges headdress (see of 19th c. (see headwear: caul #1). Also

under headwear). Also called mont la haut spelled cornette. 4. Synonym for morta r-

(mont lah hoh) and palisade. 2. English name board (seeunder ac ademic dress).

for the fontages headdress. coronet (kor′-o-net) 1. Crown that denotes

commodore cap Flattopped cap with a vi s or rank bel ow that of s overeign. Nobility of

fashion a ble for wom en for boating and sport s, Great Britain have seven different styles of

including bicycling,in 1890s. Similar to yacht- crowns for prince of the blood, younger son,

ing cap (see under headwear). nephew, duke, marquis, earl, viscount, and

communion veil A sheer net elbow-length veil baron. 2. Band or wreath worn by women on

worn by girls for first com mu n i on in the the head like a tiara (see under headwear).

Catholic Church. 3. 14th-c. term for open crown worn by

conductor’s cap Cap with crown shaped like a nobility. Also spelled coronal.

pillbox with visor-shaped brim, frequently cossa ck fora ge cap Vi s ored cap with sof t

trimmed with braid around the crown and c rown set on band worn toward back of head

an insignia in front. Worn placed straight on rather than pulled down on forehead. Made

forehead by train conductors. in napped suede fabric in natural, black, or

continental hat See headwear: cocked l oden green. Adapted from caps worn by

H hat #2. Russian Cossacks and accepted for gene ral

conversation bonnet See headwear: poke wear by men and women in the late 1960s.

bonnet. Also see forage cap.

coolie hat 1. Chinese hat made of straw that cossack hat Tall brimless hat of fur worn by

may take many forms—mushroom-shaped Russian horsemen and cavalrymen. Copied

with knob at top, bowl-shaped, conical flared for men’s winter hat in the United States and

shape, and a flared shape with a peak in the England in 1950s and 1960s.

center. All are made of bamboo, palm leaves, cottage bonnet Straw bonnet fitting head

or straw, and stand away from the head , form- closely with brim proj ecting beyond the chee ks

ing almost a parasol against the sun. 2. Copies worn from 1808 to 1870s. Early styles were

of the above styles made in felt and straw for worn over a cap. Later styles had upturned

generalwear. Der. Chinese, “kuli,” an unskilled pleated brim with satin lining.

worker. couel British turban headdress of 15th c. in

copotain (ko-poh-tan′) Man’s or woman’s red for commoners, and black for nobility.

hat with a high conical crown rounded at coun ter fillet Late 14th and early 15th c., the

top and medium-sized brim usu- fillet or band securing a woman’s veil.

ally turn ed up at the sides and Courrèges hat (Koor′- rej) Fashion helmet

b ack. Made of be aver, fur, or shaped similar to World War I aviator’s hel-

leather trimmed with wide band. met. Introduced in 1964 by French couturier

First mentioned in 1508, but very André Courrèges as a re sult of u n iversal

fashionable from 1560 to 1620. Re- interest in astronauts.

vived in 1640s to 1665; then called copotain or cove rchief/couverchief/couve rchef Nor-
the sugarloaf hat due to its resem- sugarloaf hat man term meaning head rail, a draped Saxon

headwear: deerstalker 247

head covering made of different fabrics and with veil. 4. A garland or wreath worn on the

co l ors worn by wom en of all classes from head as an ornament or sign of honor.

medieval times to the 16th c. crown hats Hats of African inspiration that

cowboy hat Large wide-brimmed felt hat with are round, flat-topped, and sometimes have

crown worn creased or standing up in cone leather medall i ons with maps of Af rica in

shape with the brim rolled up on both sides the colors of African and West Indian coun-

and dipping in front. Sometimes with hat- tries. Worn by African-Americans in late

band of leather and silver. 1980s and 1990s.

Worn in the United States crusader hood Snug-fitting hood cut in one

by We s tern cowboys to shade piece with a small shoulder cape. Originally

f ace and neck. Also call ed made of chain mail—later copied in knits for

ten-gall on hat wh en ex tra winter sportswear.

tall and uncreased. Also see cowboy hat: crusher hat Comfortable man’s snap-brim felt
headwear: sombrero and ten gallon type
Stetson.® hat that can be made into a compact roll to fit

in pocket or pack for travel. Introduced about

coxcomb/cockscomb Hood trimmed with 1900 and popular in the 1920s and again in

s trip of notched red cloth at the apex worn the 1980s and after.

by licensed court jesters in 16th and 17th cs. Cumberland hat Ma n’s hat with 8″ high

crants G a rland of flowers or chaplet made of tapered crown and small brim turned up at

gold and gems worn by wom en from Med i eval the sides, worn in 1830s. Also called hat à la

times to 18th c. Also spell ed craunce, graundice. William Tell.

crisp 16th-c. term for a woman’s veil (see curch Untrimmed close-fitting woman’s cap

under headwear). worn in Colonial America. Also spell ed kerche.

crispine (kris′-pihn) An extra band at the cushion headdress 19th-c. term for large

forehead used during the late 14th c. to keep padded roll worn as headdress by women in

the elaborate net (see headwear: caul or first half of the 15th c.

fret) in place. A veil draped over the crispine dandy hat Wom a n’s high-crowned, roll-

and caul was referred to as a crispinette brimmed hat decorated with jet embroidery,

(kris′-pin-ett). feathers, and a veil. Introduced by New York

crispinette See headwear: crispine. milliner Sally Victor in mid-1950s.

crocheted cap (kro-shade′) Any type cap that Davy Crockett cap Coonskin (raccoon fur)

is hand-crocheted. Styles vary—some are cap with tail of animal hanging down back.

h elmet-shaped—others made like tams (see Worn in Colonial America by woodsmen and

under headwear). Some styles are trimmed pioneers and named after David Crock ett,

with metal or plastic paillettes attached at frontiersman and politician, who fought and

intervals. died at the Alamo in Texas in 1836. Popular

crosscloth 1. Triangular kerchief of 16th for young boys in 1950s and 1960s after wide

and 17th cs. worn by women with a coif or exposure on television programs, at which time

caul tied under chin or at back of head. Fre- the term was co pyrighted. Copyright now

quently embroidered to match the coif. (See applies to a wide variety of apparel.

cross-references under headwear.) 2. A brow day cap Muslin cap worn by

band worn in bed to prevent il lness, or as a adult women indoors and some-

beauty aid to remove wrinkles. Worn by men times under bonnets outdoors in the

and women from 16th to 18th c. Also called 18th and 19th c. By the second half

forehead cloth. Also see frontlet. of the 19th c., only elderly women day cap, first

crown 1. See in category heading: headwear. continued to wear these caps. half of 19th c.

2. Ci rcl et of precious metal and gems worn by deerstalker Checked or tweed cap with visor

kings and queens. 3. Bridal headpiece worn on both front and back and ear laps that can

248 headwear: demi-castor

be buttoned or tied to top of D ia na Vernon hat/Dia na Vernon bonnet

crown, worn from 1860s on. Wide-brimmed, shallow-crowned straw bon-

Associated with pictures of Sher- net of the late 1870s with one side of the

lock Holmes, the ficti onal detec- deerstalker brim turned up and trimmed with a rosette.
tive created by Sir Arthur Conan Wide streamers came from underside of brim

Doyle. Der. Originally worn in Eng land for to tie u n der the chin. Der. Named for the

hunting, including “stalking deer.” Also called h eroine of Rob Roy, 1817 English novel by Sir

fore-and-after. Walter Scott.

demi-castor See headwear: castor. dink/dinky See headwear: skullcap.

demi-coronal See headwear: tiara. Directoire bonnet (dir-eck′-twa) Bonnet

Denmark cock See headwear: cocked hat. tied under the chin, fitting close over the

derby American name fo r a hat, ears, with a high flaring front brim. Worn in

called a bowler in England, first late 1870s through early 1880s. Inspired by

worn ab out 1860, made of hard hats worn during the French Directoire Period

felt with a domed crown and nar- (1795–1799), but not known by this name at

row stiff brim rolled up on the derby that time.
sides. Usu a lly bl ack, but brown and or bowler Dolley Madison hood Lace-trimmed opera

fawn colors were worn with Norfolk jacket hood resembling a dust cap (see under

(see under coats and jackets ). Der. The headwear) with a deep ruffle of lace falling

British version was named for the hatter Wil- around the face and neck. Worn toward back

liam Bowler, about 1850 to 1860, although of head and secured under chin with broad

shape dates from 1820s. The American ver- ribbon ties. Popular at end of 19th c. Also

s i on was named for Earl of Derby and an spelled Dolly. Der. Named after Dolley Madi-

English horse race called the Derby; pro- son, wife of James Madison, President of the

nounced darby in England. United States, 1809 to 1817.

H desert fatigue cap Visor cap of cotton poplin doll hat Miniature hat worn in different ways

made with soft crown set on wide band, worn at different time periods. In the late 1930s,

with top crushed down at sides. Copied from pushed forward on the head and held on with

German forage cap worn in World War II and an elastic band around back of head. Popular

accepted for general wear in late 1960s. after being worn by Jacqueline Kennedy when

diadem (dy′-ah-dem) 1. A crown. 2. Decora- she was First Lady in early 1960s, when it was

tive headdress resembling a crown. attached to the back of head with combs or

d iadem cap ( dy′-ah-dem) Bathing cap of pins and sometimes had a veil. Reintroduced

1870s usually of oiled silk shaped like a in 1984 to perch on the front of the head in

shower cap with a band and upstandingruffle various shapes—square, round, etc.

in front and ties under the chin. dome hat See headwear: bubble hat.

diadem fanchon bonnet (dy′-ah-dem fan′- doo rag Headcovering with the appearance of

shon) Lace and velvet bonnet of late 1860s a head scarf tied in the back with long, hang-

with brim forming a halo. Made with two sets ing tail. Usually made from brightly colored

of bonnet strings—one tied under chignon fabrics or leather.

(see under hairstyles) in back, the other, dorelet (dor-reh′-lay) Term used in Middle

trimmed with ruching, loosely tied under Ages for woman’s hair net ornamented with

the chin. jewels. Also spelled dorlet.

diamanté headband (dya-mahn-tay′) Band of dormeuse/dormouse (dor-muse′) Ribbon-

fabric set with artificial sparking jewels (ex- trimmed white cap with a puffed crown and

ample: rhinestones) and worn around head, falling lappet s (seeunder headwear) trimmed

low on for ehead during Edwardian period with lace, called wings, popularly known as

(1890–1910) and in late 1920s. ch eek wra ppers. Worn in the house by women

in second half of 18th c. Also called a French headwear: Eugénie hat 249
nightcap.
dressmaker’s brim Hat brim, usually on a fab- s traight-ed ged wed ges of fabric making an
ric hat, that has closely spaced rows of m achine octagon-shaped crown.
stitching or stitched tucks around the brim. elastic ro und hat Patented collapsible hat of
drum major’s hat Very tall hat with chin band, 1812, which could be flattened by releasing
frequen t ly made of fur in black or white, steel spring and carried under the arm. Fore-
worn by the leader of a band or drum major runner of the Gibus (see under headwear:
for parade functions. Similar to be a rskin cap opera hat).
(see under headwear). Empire bonnet/Empire cap ( em′-pire or
dunce cap Ta ll conical cap, sometimes marked ohm-peer′) Small outdoor bonnet of 1860s
with a D, form erly worn in sch ool by students shaped like a baby’s cap with no veil or cur-
who failed in their lessons. Som etimes wron gly tains in back.
called fool’s cap (see under headwear). engineer’s cap Round cap with visor worn
dunstable Hat of plaited straw origi n a llymade by railroad workers, usu a lly of blue-and-white
in Dunstable, England. striped cotton. The crown is box-pleated onto
dust cap Cap made of handkerchief or circ u- the band. Adopted in 1960s by young people
lar piece of fabric hemmed on outer edge and for sportswear.
gathered by elastic, worn by women or maids English cottage bonnet See headwear: bibi
for housework from 19th to early 20th c. bonnet.
Dutch-boy cap Cap with visor and soft wide English hood Woman’s headdress worn
crown usually made of navy blue wool. from 1500s to 1540s, sometimes made o f
Dutch cap Cap worn by women and girls in black fabric wired to form a
Volendam, Holland, made of lace or embroi- peak or gable over the fore-
dered muslin fitted to the head with a slight head with long velvet lappets
peak at the crown and flaring wings at sides of at side and the back draped
face. Made fashion a ble by lrene Castle, famous in thick folds over the shoul-
ballroom dancer in 1920s. Sometimes used as ders . Wh en these lappets were English hood
bridal cap. Also called Dutch bonnet. embroidered, they were called chaffers (chaf′-
earmuffs 1. Two disks of woo l , fur, felt, or ers). After 1525, the back drapery became two
other fabric worn to keep the ears warm in long pendant flaps. Also called gable and ped-
winter. Disks may be fastened to a strap that iment headdress, by 19th-c. writers.
goes overh e ad and ties under the chin, or envoy hat Man’s winter hat similar to Cos-
fastened to a spri n gy metal band that fits over sack hat (see under headwear) with leather
top of the head. 2. A pair of flaps on sides of a or fur crown and fur or fabric edge. Popular
cap that may be turned up and buttoned at in late 1960s.
top of cap, or left down to cover the ears. ermine cap See lettice cap.
Easter bonnet Anothername for an Easter hat. Eton cap Close-fitting cap with a short visor,
May be any type of hat, not necessarily tied modeled after those worn at Eton College in
under the chin. Also see Easter parade. England. Popular in fabrics to match coats
Egham, Staines, and Windsor Nickname for young boys in the United States in 1920s
used in early 19th c. for three-cornered tri- and 1930s.
corne hat (seeunder headwear). Der. From Eugénie hat (yoo-je′-nee) Small hat, with
geographical location of three English towns brim rolled back on either side, worn by
that form a triangle on map. Greta Garbo in a film about
eight-point cap Policeman’s cap, or utility the Empress Eugenie and
cap, with soft crown and a stiff visor in front. popular in the 1930s. Worn
Crown is made by sewing together eight ti l ted sideways and to the
front, and often trimmed
with one long ostri chplume Eugenie hat

250 headwear: fanchon

in the side roll. Der. Named for Eugénie, flandan (flahn′-dahn) Late 17th-c.: a pinner

Empress of France. or lappet (see under headwear) fastened to

fanchon (fan-shon′) Sm a ll lace-trimmedhead woman’s day cap.

scarf, or the lace trimming on sides of an out- Flemish hood See headwear: beguin.

door bonnet or day cap, worn from 1830s on. flight deck cap See headwear: astronaut’s

fanchon cap (fan-shon′) Small indoor cap cap.

of tulle or lace with side pieces covering the flower-pot hat Man’s hat of 1830s with crown

ears, worn by women from 1840s to 1860s. shaped like a truncated cone, or upside-down

fantail hat Three-cornered hat with wide flower pot, with large turned-up brim. Also

brim, cocked or turned up at sides, with point called turf hat.

in front; the back, somewhat-shaped semi- fly cap See headwear: butterfly cap.

circular, resembled a fan. Worn in the last fold-up hat Straw sun hat with pleated brim

quarter of 18th c. by men and wom en for and crown that folds to a 6″ roll for carrying

horseback riding. in pocket or purse.

fashion helmet Any helmet designed as a fash- follow-me-lads Long ribbon streamers of

ion item rather than for protection. May be 1850s and 1860s hanging from back of girl’s

made of leather, fabric, fur, plastic, or other bonnet.

materials. Types include Courrèges, Paco Ra- fontanges (fawn′-tanjz)

banne, Pucci, and chain helmets. /fontange Woman’s starched,

fatigue cap U.S. a rm edforces cap usu a lly made pleated, lace-and-ribbon head d ress

of twill fabric in style similar to engineer’s placed on top of upswept hairstyle

cap (see under headwear). in late 17th and early 18th c. Said

fedora Felt hat with medium-sized brim and to have originated abo ut 1679 wh en

high crown with lengthwise crease from front Ma rie Angélique de Scorraille

to back. Originally worn by men but now also de Roussilles, la Duchesse de Fon- fontanges

H styled for women with turned- tanges, a favorite of Louis XIV who was out

up back brim. Der. Popular for riding with the King, used her lace and jew-

men after Vi ctorian Sardou’s play el ed garter to fasten back her hair, which

Fed o ra was produ ced in 1882. h ad become disarranged. Also called tower
headd ress and high head. The com m ode (see
Now a classic men’s hat style. fedora

fez 1. Red felt hat shaped like truncated cone under headwear) was used to support the

with long black silk tassel hanging from cen- headdress.

ter of crown worn by Turkish men until 1925; fontanges hat (fawn′-tanjz) Tiny hat cover-

also worn in Syria, Palestine, and Albania. Also ing crown of head trimmed with lace, ribbon,

worn by the “Shriners,” an auxiliary order of and flowers with a sheet veil or curtain in

the Masons. 2. Basic shape, without tassel, back. A band of ribbon, edged with fluting,

copied for wom en’s hats in the West. Der. went under the chin. Featured in Godey’s Ma g-

Named for town of Fez in Morocco. azine in 1876.

fillet 1. Na rrow band ti ed around the hair, fool’s cap Of three types: (a) forward-curved

usually as a brow band, worn from 13th to peaked cap with donkey’s ears; (b) a cocks-

19th c. 2. Stiffen ed band of linen worn comb in place of peak and without ears;

with the ba rbette, fret, or both in 13th and (c) two hornlike peaks at sides of head. Bells

14th c. (see under headwear). 3. See head- were added to each style. Also called jester’s

wear: headband # 1 and #2. cap. Also see jester’s costume.

Fitzherbert hat Modified form of balloon football helmet Molded plastic helmet that

hat (see under headwear), with wide oval conforms closely to the head , covering the ears.

brim and low crown of puffed fabric, worn by Made with nose guard, consisting of curved

women in mid-1780s. plastic strips attached to sides, and decorated

with symbols indicating team. Worn b y all headwear: German helmet 251
contact football players.
forage cap 1. Cap with a visor adapted from worn in 16th and early 17th c. with coif or
the military for small boys in first half of caul. (See cross-references under headwear.)
19th c. Made with circular felt crown, head funnel hat Brimless tall conical hat of felt or
band stiffened with cane, a tassel from center fabric worn by wom en in the 1930s and 1940s.
of crown, and sometimes glossy black leather gable bonnet/hat Woman’s hat of 1884
straps under the chin. 2. Small cap similar to with front brim angled like a Gothic arch.
a kepi (see under headwear), formerly worn gable headress See headwear: English hood .
by soldiers in U.S. Army. Gainsborough hat Large, graceful b rimmed
fore-and-after See headwear: deerstalker. hat worn from late 1860s to 1890s and copied
foundlingbonnet Small, soft-crowned, stiff- periodically since. Made of velvet, straw, or
brimmed bon n et of 1880s usually made of beaver, frequently turned up on one side and
plush and fastened with ties under chin. trimmed with ostrich plumes. Der. Named
frelan Late 17th-c. term for woman’s bon- after the 18th-c. British painter Gainsborough,
net and pinner (see under headwear) worn who painted many portraits of ladies in this
together. Also spelled freland, frelange. type of hat, including portrait of Duchess of
French beret See headwear: beret #2. Devonshire.
French hood Woman’s headdress, galatea hat (gal′-ah-teh-ah) Child’s hat of
consisting of a small bonnet over plaited straw with sailor crown and turned-up
a stiffened frame, worn at back of brim worn in 1890s.
head and trimmed with ruching. Garbo hat Slouch hat worn so frequently by
Front border was curved forward French hood Greta Garbo in the 1930s that it is sometimes
to cover the ears and had two c. 16th c. called by her name. See headwear: slouch
ornamental gold bands or billiments. A hat. Also see Garbo, Greta.
b ack flap either enclosed the hair or was garden hat 1. Woman’s hat of 1860s made
fo l ded forward over head, proj ecting above of muslin with flat top cut in oval shape.
forehead (see headwear: bongrace). Fash- Ruffles or long pieces of muslin hung down
ionable from 1521 to 1590 and worn by some to protect the wearer from the sun. Hat was
until 1630. frequently made with ribbon trim. 2. Large-
French sailor hat Large navy blue or white brimmed floppy hat of horsehair or straw
cotton tam (see under headwear), stitched worn in 1920s and 1930s for afternoon teas
to stiff navy blue headband and tr immed and garden parties. 3. Large-brimmed straw
with red pompon at center of crown. Origi- hat currently worn when gardening to protect
nally worn by French seamen pulled down on face from the sun.
forehead with top exactly horizontal. garrison cap See headwear: overseas cap.
fret Mesh snood or skullcap made of gold gaucho hat (gow-cho) Wide-brimmed black
mesh or fabric worked in an openwork lattice felt hat made with medium-high flat crown.
design and sometimes decorated with jewels. Fasten ed under chin with leather thong. O ri gi-
Worn by wom en from the 13th to early 16th c. nally worn by So uth Am erican cowboys, it was
Also called a caul. adapted for women in late 1960s and worn
frigate cap Utility visored cap of mid-20th c. with gaucho pants (see under pants). Also
with flat top slanting toward back. Made of called sombrero córdobes (som-brer′-oh kor-
water-repellent bl ack silky rayon with cord and dob′-ehs). Der. Spanish “cowboy” of Argentina,
buttons on front for trim. Copied from caps Chile, and Uruguay.
worn by merchant seamen in the 19th c. German helmet Metal hel m et made with small
frontlet Decora tive brow band worn in med- visor and a spike on the top decorated w ith
ieval times under a coverchief or veil. Also large gold eagle on front. Worn by Germans
in World War I and adopted by teenage boys
in the late 1960s. Also called a pickelhaube.

252 headwear: Gibus

Gibus See opera hat. su bject to work hazards. In late 1960s, the

glengarry cap Military cloth cap creased to term “hard hat” took on political connotations

fold flat like an overseas cap (see under when U.S. con s tructi on workers ex pressed

headwear) usually with tartan band at edge, their sentiments against peace advocates.

regimental badge at side front, and two black harlequin Hat with brim, wide at sides and

ribbon streamers in back. Part of the uniform c ut straight across front and back, worn in

of Scottish Highland regiments, and adapted 1938. Der. From Harlequin, a part played by

for sportswear by women and small boys in an actor in 16th to 18th c. Italian comedies

mid-19th c. Der. After Glengarry, a valley in called commedia dell’arte.

Invernessshire, Scotland. harvest hat Bel i eved to be the term used for the

gob hat See headwear: sailor hat. first straw hats worn by farmers in the United

go f fe red ve il 19th-c. term for linen head- States.

dress, with fluted or goffered frill surround- hat Som etimes used as a generic term for head-

ing the face. Has back drapery to shoulders, wear, however the term is more spe cifically

worn from 1350 to 1420. Nebula headdress is a applied to headwear that consists of a crown

19th-c. synonym. and a brim and that usually does not tie

gondolier’s hat (gon-doh-leer′) S traw hatwith under the chin. A decorative accessory or one

a medium-sized brim and a shallow, slightly worn for warmth, hats can be made of felt,

tapered crown with a flat top. Wide ribbon s traw, fur, fabric, leather, or synthetic mate-

trims the crown and long streamers extend rials. The Greek petasos (see headwe a r: peta-

down the back; the color of the ribbon de - sos #1) was among the earliest of brimmed

noted length of service. Worn fo rmerly by hats. Medieval hat styles included the copo-

gondoliers of Venice, Italy. Often purchased tain (see under headwear) and until c. 1660

as a tourist souvenir by visitors to Venice. men wore hats indoors as well as out and in

granny bonnet Child’s bonnet of early 1890s church. Women did not generally wear hats

H with ribbon ties under the chin, broad flaring except for traveling until after the late 16th c.,

brim, and gathered conventional crown deco- when they wore either hats or bonnets for

rated with ri bbons. Der. Styl ed after the bon- outdoors and for church. From the late 1950s,

nets that grandmothers wore. bouffant hairstyles, and later the use of wigs

Greek fisherman’s cap Soft cap of denim or and falls, made it difficult to wear hats and

wool with crown higher in front than in back. although hats have been periodically fashion-

Elaborately trimmed with braid on visor and able since then, they are worn much less fre-

at seam where visor meets crown. Styled in quently than in the past.

black wool, blue denim, or wh i teand worn for Hat à la William Te ll See h e adwear: Cumber-

sportswear or boating in 1980s by both men land hat.

and women. hat cap 18th-c. term for a day cap worn

hair net Fine cap-shaped net worn over the hair under a hat mainly by women. Also called

to keep it in place. Sometimes made of knotted undercap.

human hair and nearly invisible. Also made hat pin Straight pin from 3″ to 12″ long with

of chenille, gold, or silver threads and worn as bead or jewel at top. Used by women to secure

decoration. Also see headwear: snood. their hats in late 19th through early 20th c.,

halo hat See headwear: pamela. becoming less common after hair was bobbed

ha rdhat Protective covering for the head . Made in the 1920s.

of metal or hard plastic in classic pith hel- havelock 1. Cloth covering for militar y cap

met shape or similar to a baseball batter’s extending to shoulders in back in order to

cap (see under headwear). Held away from pro tect the neck from sun. Der. Named for

the head by foam lining to absorb impact. Sir Henry Havelock, British general in India.

Worn by con s tructi on workers and others 2. See headwear: automobile cap.

headwear: hunt cap 253

headband 1. Strip of leather, cord, or fabric a reference to the inconvenience such a head-
bound around the head horizontally across
the forehead. Also called a brow band. 2. Band dress would cause.
worn over top of the head from ear to ear as
an ornament or to keep hair in place since heuke (hyuke) Veil enveloping wearer to
ancient times. 3. Band at bottom edge of hat
crown. knees or ankles—som etimes with the top

head rail See headwear: coverchief. stiffen ed by wire—worn over head forming
head wrap In 1980s, a scarf, bandanna, ribbon,
a cage. Worn in Flanders in 16th and 17th c.
or piece of fabric worn in carefree manner
around the head to frame the face or as a Also spelled hewke, heyke, hewk.
brow band (see under headwear).
heart-shaped headdress Rolled woman’s high hat See headwear: top hat.
headdress of 1420 to 1450, forming a heart-
shaped peak in center front. Raised on sides hive bonnet See headwear: beehive hat #1.
to show netting coming down over the ears.
Usually worn with a long veil. The style was homburg Man’s hat of rather stiff
called a miter by 19th-c. writers.
helmet Protective covering for the head worn felt with narrow rolled brim and
primarily to prevent injury, particularly by
armed forces and fo r various sports. First lengthwise crease in the crown worn
worn by Greeks and Romans with feathered
crests; chain mail was used during the Cru- from 1870s on for formal occa-
s ades; cast metal used from 14th c. on for
knights’ helmets, which usually had a visor. sions. Made fashionable by Prince
In the late 1950s, space helmets were intro- of Wales, later Edward VII, who homburg
duced for astronauts, and in the 1960s hel-
met-shaped hats were introduced as a fashion visited Bad Homburg in Germany many times.
accessory. Also see armor: burgon et and
morion. Revived after President Dwight Eisenhower
hemispherical hat See headwear: bollinger.
Henley boater See headwear: boater. wore one to his inauguration in 1952. Der.
hennin (hen′-in) Woman’s tall steeple-
shaped headdress worn in Burgundy during Homburg, Prussia.
the second half of 15th c. Supported by a wire
frame and worn tilted back hood 1. Preliminary, shaped piece of felt or
with a long sheer veil hang-
ing from tip down to floor, straw from which the milliner works. Has a
or caught up as drapery at
waist. Sumptuary laws reg- h i ghro u n dednondescript crown and an extra
ulated the size of these hats.
Princesses could wear hats a large floppy brim. 2. Accessory worn on the
yard high; however, those of
noble ladies could be only h e ad and sometimes the shoulders that is
24″ or less. Also called steeple
headdress and co rner. Der. frequently attached to a jacket or coat. Differs
From an old Fr ench word hennin, 2nd half
meaning “to inconvenience,” of the 15th c. from a hat in that it has no specific shape and

usually covers the entire head , som etimes tying

under the chin. Popular item for winter wear,

it is made in all types of fabrics and fur. Al-

though there are a great variety of styles, there

are no specific names for these items. Worn

from 11th c. on but replaced generally by caps

in 1860s and 1870s, and for winter sportswear

in the 1920s and 1930s. Very popular from

late 1960s and after.

horned headd ress Headdress

con s i s ting of t wo horns ex tend-

ing horizontally at either side of

face or curved upward. A veil was

draped over top and hung down

the back. Worn from 1410 to 1420, horned
headdress
and, rarely, to 1460.
15th c.

hundred pleater See h e adwear: ch ef’s

hat.

hunt cap Cap cut in six segments with small

visor, elastic chin strap, and button on center

top, sometimes of cl overleaf shape. Worn

with riding habit, it is sometimes made with a

254 headwear: hunt derby

plastic shell covered with velvet or velveteen kiss-me-quick Popular name for tiny bon-

and a padded lining. net fashionable in late 1860s.

hunt derby Stiff protective derby (see under lamba lle bonnet (lam-bahl′) Saucer-shaped

h e adwear) made with reinforced stron g straw bonnet of mid-1860s worn flat on head

plastic shell covered with black felt worn with sides pulled down slightly and ti ed under

with riding habit. chin with large ri bbon bow. Some had lace

hunting cap Bright-ora n ge visored cap, some- lappets (see under headwear), others had

times fluorescent, enabling hunter to be seen small veils in back called “curtains.”

in the woods. Langtry hood Detachable hood on woman’s

Jenny Lind cap Crocheted band crossing the outdoor garment of 1880s with a colored lin-

crown of the head coming down over ears and ing. Der. Named after actress Lillie Langtry.

around to the back, where it fastened. Some- lappets Long, ribbonlike strips of fabric that

times made of scarlet and white wool. Worn extend from a headdress. Particularly used in

as a woman’s morning cap in late 1840s and the 18th and 19th cs. to refer to such strips,

early 1850s. Der. Copied from style worn by often lace trimmed, when they hang at sides

Jenny Lind (1820–1887), famous coloratura or back of an indoor cap.

soprano called the “Swedish Nightingale.” leghorn hat/leghorn bonnet Woman’s hat or

Joan Woman’s small , close-fitting indoor cap bonnet in leghorn straw, a fine, smooth straw

shaped like baby’s bon n et ti ed under chin braid plaited with thirteen strands. Made from

with narrow fri ll of muslin or lace around face. the upper part of wheat stalks grown near

Worn from 1755 to 1765. Also called Quaker Livorno, a town in Tuscany, Italy. Fashionable

cap. at intervals since latter half of 19th c. Der.

jockey cap Visored cap with crown usually of Named for place of export for the straw,

bicolored sateen cut in gores, similar to base- Livorno, Italy. The Bri tish angl i c i zedthe name

ball cap (see under headwe a r) but with of the city to “Leghorn.”

H deeper crown, worn by racetrack jockeys. Legionnaire’s cap See headwear: kepi.

Similar caps worn by women in mid-1960s. lettice cap/bonnet 1. 16th-c. term for

Juliet cap skullcap (see under headwe a r) woman’s outdoor cap or bonnet of triangular

of rich fabric worn for evening or with wed- shape that covered the ears. Made of lettice, a

ding veils. May also be made en ti rely of pearls, fur resembling ermine. 2. In 16th and 17th c.,

jewels, or chain. Der. Medieval costume of man’s nightcap of lettice fur worn to induce

Juliet in Shakespeare’s play Romeo and Juliet. sleep. Also called ermine cap or miniver cap.

kepi High-crowned, flattopped visored cap fre- liberty cap 1. See French Revoluti on Styles.

quently worn w ith havelock (see under 2. See headwear: bonnet rouge. 3. See

headwear) in back as protection from sun. headwear: Phrygian cap.

Worn by French Foreign Legion and French liripipe 1. Long pendant tail of the chap-

General and statesman Charles de Gaulle. erone (see under headwear), a hood worn

Also called Legionnaire’s cap. in 14th and 15th c. 2. Part of a hood worn by

kerchief 1. In current usage, a large triangle of university graduates from 1350 to 15th c. Also

cloth, or square folded in triangular fashion, spelled liripipium, lirapipe, liripoop. Also called

worn as a headcovering or around the neck. tippet.

Also see scarves: kerchief and neckerchief. long hood See headwear: pug hood.

2. Covering for the head from Medieval Louis XV hat Woman’s hat of mid-1870s

times to end of 16th c. Also spelled karcher, with large high crown and wide brim turned

kercher, kercheve, kersche. In 16th and 17th c., up on one side. Fastened to crown with velvet

called a head rail. See headwear: cover- bows and trimmed elaborately with ostrich

chief. feathers. Der. Named for Louis XV of France

kevenhuller hat See headwear: cocked hat. (1710–1774).

lounging cap Gentleman’s at-home cap, worn headwear: milkmaid hat 255
in mid-1860s, made in pillbox or dome shape
with silk tassels fastened at center. Also called marin anglais bonnet (mar′-ahn an-glayz′)
Greek lounging cap. Woman’s bonnet worn on the back of the
head like a child’s sailor hat in 1870s. Trimmed
lunardi See headwear: balloon hat. with ribbon and feathers and tied under chin.
mafors Long narrow veil worn by wo men Der. French, “English sailor cap.”

from 6th to 11th c. that usually covered head marmotte bonnet (mar′-mowt) Tiny bon-
and draped over shoulders. net of early 1830s with narrow front brim sim-
Mameluke turban (mama-luke′) White satin ilar to bibi bonnet. See under headwear.
woman’s turban of 1804 trimmed with one
large ostrichfeather, with the front roll ed back marmotte cap (mar′-mowt) Triangular
like a hat brim over a dome-shapedcrown. Der. h a n dkerchief, placed on back of head and
Mamelukes were originally non-Arab slaves tied under chin, worn indoors by women in
brought to Egypt, later trained as soldiers. early 1830s.
Ruled Egypt from 1250 to 1517 and remained
powerful until 1811 under Turkish viceroys. marquis (mar-kwiss′ or mar-kee′) A three-
The Mameluke army was defeated by Napoleon cornered hat worn by women.
Bonaparte during his Egyptian campaign in
1798. Mary, Queen of Scots cap Indoor cap worn
Mandarin hat Woman’s black velvet pork pie by women, mainly matrons and widows, from
hat (seeunder headwear) of early 1860s with 1750s to 1760s. Made with a heart-shaped
feather trim over the back of the flat crown. peak in center front edged with beads, may
Design inspiration may have been an ancient have side frills and lappets. Also called Mary
Chinese court hat with wide, flaring, upturned cap.
brim and decorative but ton at crown (indicat-
ing rank of wearer), made of fur and satin for matador hat (mat-ah-door) Hat shaped like
winter and decorated with a peacock feather. the top of a bull’s head—rounded over fore-
mantilla (man-til′-ah) Large oblong, fine lace head with two projections like bull’s horns
veil, usually in rose pattern of black or white, covered with black tufts of fabric, with the
worn wrapped over head and crossed under center of crown of embroidered velvet. Worn
chin with one end thrown over shoulder. Fre- by bullfighters in Spain and Mexico.
quently worn to church instead of a hat in
Spain and South America. Popular after it was ma zarin hood (maz′-ah-rhan) Woman’s
worn in early 1960s by U.S. first lady Jacque- hood worn in the last quarter of the 17th c.
line Kennedy. Der. Named after the Duchesse de Mazarin,
Marie Stuart bonnet/cap Bonnet with heart- niece of Ca rdinal Mazarin (1602–1661),
shaped peak or brim projecting over center of m i nister to Louis XIV.
forehead, popular from 1820 to 1870, espe-
cially for widows. A derivative of the attifet Mecklenburg cap Turban-style indoor cap
headdress (see under headwear) worn by worn by women in 1760s. Der. Named after
Mary, Queen of Scots, also called Mary Stuart Charlotte of Mecklenburg, who married
(or Stewart) (1542–1587). George III of England in 1761.
Marie Stuart hood Separate hood of 1860s
with heart-shaped peaked brim in front ex- mentonnières (mahn-toe nyeh r′) See head-
tended over the face with crown cut round wear: chin stays.
and gathered at edge. Ti ed with ri bbons under
chin and lavishly trimmed with ruching, Merry Widow hat Very wide-brimmed hat,
embroidery, braid, and ribbon. sometimes a yard across, frequently of velvet
and ornately trimmed with ostrich plumes.
Der. Named for 1905 light opera The Merry
Widow, with music by Franz Lehár.

Milan bonnet (mee-lan′) Man’s cap of first
half of 16th c., usually black with soft puffed
crown. Rolled-up brim was sometimes slit
on the sides and trimmed with crimson satin
lining pulled through slashes.

milkmaid hat See headwear: bergère.

256 headwear: miner’s cap

miner’s cap Stiff cap with short duck-billed imental insignia. Popular after being adopted

visor and battery-powered light attached to by field marshal Bernard Law Montgomery,

front of crown. 1st Viscount Mon t gomery, commander of

m istake hat Woman’s hat with tall flat- British ground forces in World War II.

topped crown and brim cut in blunt point in mont-la-haut See headwear: commode.

front and turned up. Back brim was turned morning cap Dainty cap of muslin, lace,

down. Worn on the back of the head in 1804. tulle, and ribbon worn o n the back of the

miter 1. Woman’s headband worn in ancien t head indoors in the morning by women from

Greece. 2. See headwear: heart-shaped 1820s to end of 19th c. Also called a breakfast

headdress. cap.

Moabi teturban (mo′-ab-ite) Woman’s crepe mortarboard See academic costume.

turban draped in many folds and trimmed motorcycle helmet Molded plastic helmet

with an aigrette feather on one side. Worn with foam lining worn when riding a motor-

tilted to back of head in early 1830s. cycle. Usually has a large dark-colored plas-

mob cap Woman’s indoor cap of tic shield that snaps on to protect eyes and

18th and 19th cs. made of white face.

cambric or muslin with gathered motoring veil See headwear: automobile

c rown and ruffled edge forming veil.

a bonnet. Had side lappets (see Mountie’s hat Wide-brimmed hat with high

under headwear), called kissing mob cap crown creased into four sections with a small
strings or bridles, which tied under 18thc. peak at the top. Similar to World War I army

the chin. hat worn with dress uniform. Worn by state

mod cap Cap similar to newsboy cap (see policemen, Forest Rangers, and by the Royal

under h e adwear), popular in the Un i ted Canadian Mounted Police.

States in the mid-1960s. mourning bonnet Any black bonnet worn

H molded felt Hat industry term fo r the felt to complete a mourning costume—especially

hood made into hat shape by placing over a in the 1870s and 1880s. An off-the-face bon-

wooden block shaped like a head. See head- net, sometimes with a heart-shaped brim, it

wear: hood #1. was made of black silk, lavishly trimmed with

Monmouth cap Man’s knitted cap with high ruching and ri bbon, and ti ed under the ch in.

rounded crown and small turned-down brim The veil was arranged over the face or allowed

worn by soldiers, sailors, and civilians. Listed to hang down the back.

as necessary item for new settlers in America. mourning veil Semi-sheer black veil to the

Most common in 17th c. although also worn shoulders, usually circular, sometimes edged

from 1570s to 1625. Made at Monmouth with wide band of black fabric worn under or

and Bewdley in Worcestershire, England. Also over hat at funerals or during periods of

called Bewdley cap and worn by country folk mourning.

by that name as late as 19th c. mousquetaire hat (moose-ke-tare′) 1. Wi de-

Monmouth cock See headwear: cocked hat. brimmed hat usually trimmed with three

Montespan hat (mon-tes-pan′) Woman’s ostrich plumes. Also called Swedish hat. Der.

small round velvet evening hat of 1843 with From hats worn by French musketeers or royal

brim turned up in front, trimmedwith plume. bodyguards of Louis XIII in 17th c. 2. Brown

Der. Named for Ma rquise de Montespan mushroom-shaped woman’s straw hat edged

(1641–1707), mistress of Louis XIV of France. with black lace hanging from the brim worn

Montgomery beret Military cap, a bit larger in late 1850s.

than the conven ti onal bas que beret (see muffin hat Man’s fabric hat with round flat

headwear: beret) but set on a band like a crown and narrow standing brim used for

Scottish tam-o-shanter and decora ted with reg- country wear in 1860s.

Muller cut-down Man’s hat of 1870s made headwear: opera hat 257

like top hat with crown cut to half the height. jellybag. Also see headwear: bi ggin #2.
2. 14th- to mid-19th-c. skullcap with
Der. Named after English murderer whose upturn ed brim, worn indoors by men wh en
wig was rem oved. 3. See headwear: napkin
hat led to his arrest in 1864. cap. 4. See headwear: mob cap.
Norwegian morning cap/Norwegian morning
mushroom hat Woman’s straw hat with small bonnet Woman’s cerise andwh i te - s triped
Shetland wool, knitted kerchief-shaped head
round crown and downward-curved brim, covering of 1860s. Tied under the chin with a
ribbon and tr immed with bows over crown
shaped like the cap of a mushroom . Worn and back of the head.
nurse’s cap White stiffly starched fabric cap
in 1870s and 1880s, trimmed with ribbons, received by nurses at graduation. At one time,
but no longer, worn pinned to the crown of
flowers, and birds. Worn again in early 1900s the head wh en dressedin uniform and on duty
in hospitals. Each school of nursing has an
and in the 1930s and 1940s usually made of individual style of cap.
obi hat Woman’s hat of 1804 with high flat-
felt. topped crown and narrow brim rolled up in
front. Ribbons come over crown and brim of
napkin-cap Man’s 18th-c. house cap or plain hat, tying under chin.
octagonal hat Cap shaped like a tam (see
nightcap (see headwear: nightcap #2) headwear) made of six wedges stitched to-
gether, forming an octagonal-shaped crown.
worn at home when wig was removed. Sometimes made of two contrasting fabrics
and usually trimmedwith two short streamers
Neapol i tan bonnet (nee-a-poll-i-tan) L eg- hanging in back. Popular for girls and young
women in mid-1890s.
horn bonnet of 1800 (see under headwear) open-crown hat Woman’s hat made without
a crown—may be of the halo or toque hat
trimmed with straw flowers and matching type (see under headwear).
opera hat 1. Small tricorne hat carri ed under
ri bbons attach ed at the crown and loo s ely the arm rather than worn from mid-18th c.
on. Also called chapeau bras. 2. Bicorne hat
tied over the chest. Der. Greek, Napolis, “old worn from 1800 to 1830 with a cre s cent-
shaped brim front and back that could be
town,” present-day Naples. compressed and carried under the arm. Also
called a military folding hat. 3. Man’s tall silk
Neapolitan hat (nee-a-poll′-i-tan) Sheer lacy hat with collapsible crown worn formerly
for full dress occasions. Also worn by ring-
conical hat made in Naples of hors ehair braid. masters, magicians, and performers. Differs
from a top hat (see under headwear) by
Later, any hat made of this braid. Der. City in being completely collapsibleand made of dull,
rather than shiny, fabric. Also called a gibus
which it originates: Naples. (jy-bus) and made with sides containing met a l
springs that snapped open to hold it upright.
Nebula headdress See headwear: goffered Der. From Antoine Gibus, who invented the
hat in 1823, patented in 1837. Similar styles
headdress.

necked bonnet Lined or unlined cap with

wide flap fitted around back of neck worn by

men in first half of 16th c.

newsboy cap Soft fabric cap with flat bloused

crown and visor that sometimes snaps to the

crown. Form erly worn by news boys and made

famous by child actor Jackie Coogan in silent

films of the 1920s. Revived in exaggerated

form in 1960s and 1970s. Also popular in

2000 and after. May be referred to by various

names (e.g., Carnaby, bebop, soul, applejack

cap).

night coif (kwaf) Woman’s cap worn with

n egligee costume or in bed in 16th and

17th c. Frequently embroi dered and usually

worn with forehead cloth (see

headwear: crosscloth #2).

nightcap 1. Plain washable cap worn

in bed by men and women from

earliest times, sometimes made like

stocking cap of knitted silk with man’s
nightcap
tassel on top. In 19th c. called a 18th c.

258 headwear: oralia

were called chapeau claque, circumfolding hat, of 20th c. Worn in different styles from 1855

and elastic round hat. on. A large Panama hat was worn by the

oralia (or-ahl′-yuh) Early med i eval term for Pri n ce of Wales in 1920s at Belmont Park,

pointed veil. By first quarter of 14th c., known Long Island, where more than 50,000 people

as cornalia or cornu. Also spelled orales. Der. were gathered, thus reviving the wearing of

Latin, “veil.” Panama hat. 2. By extension, any man’s straw

orrelet (or-let′) Term used in later half of summer hat regardless of type of straw.

16th c. for hanging side pieces of woman’s pancake beret See headwear: beret #2.

coif that covered ears. Also called cheeks-and- pantile See headwear: copotain.

ears. Also spelled oreillett, orillette, orilyet. See papillion See headwear: bonnet à bec.

headwear: coif #3. parachute hat See balloon hat.

overseas cap Flat folding cloth cap of khaki Peruvian hat Woman’s rain hat made from

or olive drab fabric worn by men and women plaited palm leaves, worn in early 19th c.

in the armed services. Has a lengthwise pleat petasos ( pet′-ah-soss) 1. Felt hat with a large

from front to back in cen ter of crown to floppy brim and nondescript crown worn in

enable it to fold flat. Worn overseas in World ancient Greece when traveling. Also worn

Wars I and II. Also called garrison cap. in ancient Rome. 2. Close-fitting winged cap

Pa co Rabanne hat (pak′-oh rah′-bahn) as seen in representations of Roman god, Mer-

Unusual cap fitted to conform to the head and cury. Also spelled petasus.

covered with ti ny diamond-shaped mirrors Pe ter Pan hat Sm a ll hat with brim ex tended

linked together. Introduced in late 1960s and in front and turned up in back. Made with a

named for French couturier Paco Rabanne. conical crown trimmed with long feathers.

padre hat Shovel-shaped hat with turned-up Der. Named after the hat worn by ac tress

brim on the sides and long squ a re cut brim Maude Adams in 1905 when starring in J. M.

in front and back. Worn by some orders of Barrie’s play Peter Pan.

H Catholic priests. Der. Italian, “father.” Phrygian cap/Phrygian bonnet (frij′-ee-an)

painter’s cap Lightweight duck-billed fabric 1. Cap with high rounded peak curving for-

cap made with a round, flat-topped crown. ward with lappets hanging at sides, sometimes

Som etimes impri n ted with sch ool name, team m ade of leather. Worn in ancient Greece

name, or resort on front of crown. Der. From from 9th to 12th c. and copied from 18th c.

cap worn by house painters. on as bonnet rouge (see under headwear).

palisade See headwear: commode. 2. See pileus #2.

pamela 1. Straw bonnet worn from 1845 to pickelhaube See headwear: G erman Hel-

late 1860s, made of a “saucer- m et.

shaped” piece of straw or fab- picture hat Hat with large brim framing the

ric placed on top of the head. face, frequently made of straw. Also see head-

Fa s tened with bon n et strings wear: leghorn hat.

that bent it into a U-shape pamela or halo hat pileus (pi′-lay-uss) /pilleus 1. Ancient
around the face. Trimmed on Roman skullcap worn at games and festivals.

top with foliage, flowers, or feathers. 2. Con- 2. Felt brimless cap with peak folded over,

tinued to be a basic hat style with a rounded similar to Phrygian cap (see under head-

crown and wide brim and now often called a wear), worn by fre ed Roman

halo hat. slaves. Also see pilos. Der.

Panama hat 1. Hat made of fine, Latin, “skullcap.”

ex pensive straw obtained from the pillbox hat Classic round brim-

leaves of the jipijapa plant hand- less hat that can be worn fo r-

woven in Ecuador. Very popular w a rd or on the back of the

at the end of 19th and beginning panama hat head. Introduced in late 1920s pillbox hat

and worn since with slight variations. Der. headwear: Quaker bonnet 259
From small round pillboxes formerly used by
chemists or druggists. with a low flat crown and turned-up narrow
pilos (pi′-los) Conical cap wo rn by Greek brim.
peasants or fishermen, derived from those postboy hat Woman’s small straw hat of
worn by ancient Greeks and Romans, similar 1885 styled with high flat crown and narrow
to pileus (see under headwear). Der. Latin, brim sloping down all around. Trimmed with
“skullcap.” plume in front and worn perched on top of
pinner A lappet , s trip of f a bric hanging from head.
a woman’s indoor cap, when worn pinned up postillion (pohse-til′-yohn) Hat with tall ta-
and, by extension, term for cap itself in 17th pered crown and narrow brim, usually beaver,
to mid-18th c. worn by women for riding. Der. From clothes
pipkin Woman’s small hat, worn about 1565 worn by postillions, “men on horseb ack accom-
to 1600, made with flat crown pleated into panying carriages.”
narrow brim. Usually trimmed with a narrow pot hat See headwear: top hat.
jeweled band and feathers. Also called taffeta prayer veil Small triangular lace veil worn in-
pipkin. stead of hat for church services.
pith helmet See topee. profile hat Woman’s hat with brim turn ed
planter’s hat Wide-brimmed white or natural down sharply on one side, silhouetting the
handwoven straw hat with high den ted crown, profile, popular in late 1930s.
banded with dark ribbon. Worn by Southern Pucci hat (pooch′-ee) Plastic glass bubble with
gentlemen in the United States and popular cut-out for the face that stands away from the
for women in late 1960s. head to keep hair from blowing. Designed by
plug hat See headwear: top hat. Emilio Pucci, Italian couturier, as part of
poke bonnet Bonnet of 19th c. made with wardrobe for airline stewardesses.
very wide brim slanting forward from small pudding Small, round padded cap
crown to frame and shado w the face. Also or pad ded band worn by infants and
called poking bonnet. When made with rolled small children to serve as shock pudding
brim—one side extending beyond the cheek, absorber in a fall . Synonym: bumper. 17th c.
the other side rolled back from face, it was pug hood Woman’s soft hood of 18th c.
called a conversation bonnet, a style worn in with pleats radiating from back where it fitted
1803. the head. Made with or without an attached
Polish toque Woman’s hat of mid-1860s cape. Usually black with colored turned-back
somewhat similar to pillbox, trimmed in front lining and tied under the chin with matching
with foliage and in back with a large bunch of ribbons. Same as short hood. A long hood was
velvet ribbon loops. similar, but with long tabs on the sides to
polka Woman’s cap of cream-colored tulle facilitate tying under the chin.
with croch eted edges appliquéd with lace pultney cap Woman’s heart-shaped indoor
floraldesigns, with la ppets (see under head- cap of 1760s with wired peak, worn on the
wear) covering ears, and tied under chin. back of the head.
polo hat See headwear: chukka hat. Puritan hat Black, stiff, tall-crowned man’s hat
pork-pie hat 1. Classic snap-brim man’s hat, with med ium-wide straight brim trimmed with
flat on top with crease around edge of crown, wide bl ack band and silver buckle in cen ter
made of fabric, straw or felt. Worn front. Worn by Puritan men in Am erica in
in 1930s and copied for women in early 17th c. and copied for women in 1970s.
the 1940s. Still a basic hat for men. Quaker bonnet Small close-fitting, undeco-
2. Introduced in 1860s as a hat pork pie hat rated woman’s bonnet with a puffed crown
for women made of straw or velvet #1 and stiff brim tied under the chin. Made in
same fabric as the dress (often gray) or in
straw, and worn over a ruffled white muslin

260 headwear: Quaker cap

cap. In 17th thro u gh 19th c. prescri bed for roll 15th-c. term for the circular pad made

wom en of Quaker faith by the Soc i ety of when converting the man’s chaperon into a

Friends. hat. Also see headwear: bourrelet.

Quaker cap See headwear: joan cap. roller Hat with close-fitting crown and narrow

Quaker hat 1. Tricorne hat with open cock curved brim worn rolled up or with the front

and tall crown, worn in 18th c. 2. Hat with turn ed down. Popular for wom en and girls

large, slightly rolled brim, low crown, and no in 1930s and 1940s, revived in early 1970s.

ornamentation worn in the 19th c. by Quaker round-eared cap Woman’s white cambric

men. or lace indoor cap worn from 1730s to 1760s.

quartered cap Boy’s cap with flat circular It curved around face and was finished with a

crown divi ded into four segments and attached ruffle. The shallow back was pulled together

to stiff band. Made with or without a visor with a drawstring. Sometimes with side lap-

from mid-18th to mid-19th c. pets (see under headwear)pinned up or ti ed

rain bonnet Accordion-pleated plastic cover- loosely under chin. Sometimes called coif.

ing for head that ties under chin. Folds up to roundlet 1. 17th-c. term used to describe

fit in purse when not in use. the roll of the 15th-c. chaperone, worn with

rain hat Any waterproof hat worn in the rain. a stuffed roll encircling the head and tail,

Some hats are made of vinyl and styled with a called a becca, which was a long strip of fabric

high crown and a floppy brim. Also see head- hanging forward that was sometimes worn

wear: sou′wester. slung over the shoulders. This style was very

ranelagh mob Woman’s cap of 1760s made popular in the reign of Henry VI of England

with a kerchief (seeunder headwear) folded and was also called a berretino . 2. Man’s

diagonally and placed over the head with two small round hat of the 18th c. with attached

long ends tied under chin. The ends were streamer for carrying it over shoulder.

pulled back and pinned or left to hang down. Rubens hat High-crowned woman’s hat of

H ranger’s hat See headwear: Mountie’s hat. 1870s and 1880s with brim turned up on one

Red Baron helmet See headwear: aviator’s side, sometimes trimmed with feathers and

helmet. bows. Der. Named for hats painted by Flem-

red crown Outward flaring crown with long ish master Peter Paul Rubens (1577–1640).

extension up back worn by kings of Upper sa fari hat Lightweight straw or fabric hat

Egypt in ancient times. When kingdom became shaped som ewhat like a shall ow soup dish

united both the red crown and the white with medium-sized brim. Hat is somewhat

c rown (see under h e adwear) were worn similar to a topee (see under headwear)

together. with a shallower crown. Worn to deflect heat

reticulation (re-ti′-cu-lay-shun) Decora tive in warm weather. Der. Shape of hat is similar

net ting holding hair on either side of f ace worn to those worn on African hunting trips called

with horned headdress by women in 15th c. “safaris.”

See headwear: caul #1. sailor hat 1. Hat worn by naval enlisted per-

Rex Harrison hat Man’s snap-brim hat of wool sonnel made of white duck fabric

tweed with narrow brim and matching tweed with gored crown and stitched up-

band. Popular after being worn by actor Rex turned brim worn eitheron the back

Harrison in his role as Professor Henry Hig- of the head or tilted over the fore- sailor hat #1
gins in the musical My Fair Lady, in 1956. head. Also called gob hat and tennis

Robin Hood hat Hat with high peaked crown, hat. 2. Women’s straight brimmed hat with

brim turned up in back, down in front, and shallow flat crown worn since 1860s. Very

trimmed with one long feather. Der. From hat popular in 1890s for sportswear and bicycling

in illustrations of books about Robin Hood, and worn intermittently since. 3. Popular hat

legendary British outlaw of the 12th c. for small boys in the 1880s, sometimes em-

headwear: slouch hat 261

broidered with fictitious name of a ship on a front. Worn by marching bands, it was adapted
ribbon band at the base of the crown, similar
in style to the brimless French sailor hat from a style of military cap worn formerl y.
(see under headwear).
Saint Laurent hat Cap designed by French Also see headwear: drum major’s hat.
co uturi er Yves Saint Laurent in 1966, m ade
of leather studded with nailheads and styled shepherdess hat See headwear: bergère.
similar to World War I aviator’s helmet.
Salvation Army bonnet High-crowned black shoe hat Hatdesigned by Elsa Schi-
straw bonnet with short front brim raised off
foreh e ad to show a pale-blue lining. Has dark- aparelli in the 1930s that looked
blue ribbon around crown and ties under chin;
worn by women of the Salvation Army, a reli- like a woman’s shoe. This design
gious and charitable organization.
scarf cap Long tubular knitted or crocheted was reflective of the designer’s
scarf with opening for head in one end, simi-
lar to stocking cap (see under headwear). interest in Surrealism. shoe hat
scarf hat 1. Woman’s soft fabric hat made by
tying a scarf over a lining or base, sometimes shower cap Plastic or waterproof 1930s
shaped like a pillbox (see under headwe ar),
and sewed in place. 2. A triangular piece of cap, usually shirred into an elastic band, worn
colorful print or plain fabric quilted on long
side. Worn with quilted part in cen ter fron t to keep the hair dry when taking a shower.
and ti ed on the head like a kerchief (s ee
under headwear). sil k hat Hi gh cylindrical-shaped hat with
scoop bonnet Bonnet popular in 1840s with
wide stiff brim shaped like a flour scoop at- flat top and silk-plush finish used by men
tach ed to soft crown. Der. From old-fashion ed
“flour scoop.” on formal occasions and with formal riding
scottie A brimless hat styled som ewhat like
the glengarry (see under headwear) with dress by men and women. Invented by John
narrow recessed crown. Veiling, ribbon, or
feathers are sometimes placed on top toward Hetherington, a haberdasher of Lon don,
the back.
sempstress bonnet Woman’s bonnet of 1812 provoking a riot when first worn by him on
with long, wide ribbons crossing under chin
and brought up to top of crown, where they January 15, 1797. He was charged in court
tied in a bow.
service cap Army cap wo rn with dress uni- for “breach of peace” for frightening timid
form, made with a stiff, round, flat top and
stiff visor of leather or plastic. people. Hat subsequently became the top hat
shade P i ece of knitted or woven fabric
usually attached to a hatband and arranged to (see under headwear) in 1830.
fall over the back of the head and neck to pre-
vent sunburn. Worn by women in 1880s. skimmer sailor hat or boater (see under
shako (shay′-ko) Cylindrical stiff tall cap with
attach ed visor. Top is sometimes tapered, headwear), with exaggerated shallow crown
sometimes flared, with feather cock ade in
and wide brim.

skullcap Gored cap, usually made in eight sec-

tions, which fits tightly to crown of the head,

often part of ecclesiastical garb or national

costume. A beanie is a skullcap cut in gores to

fit the head. Worn by children and by fresh-

men students as a part of hazing by upper-

classmen, this is also called a dink or dinky.

A yarmulka (yahr-muhl′-kuh) is a skullcap

m ade of plain, em broidered, beaded, or

crocheted fabric that is worn by Or thodox

Jewish males for day wear and in the syna-

gogue. Worn by other Jewish men for special

occasions and religious services. Also see

h e adwear: calotte and cl erical dress:

calotte.

sleep bonnet Any net, snood, or cap worn to

bed to protect hairstyle.

slouch hat Woman’s hat similar

to a man’s fedora (see under

h e adwear) made with a flexible

brim that may be turned down in
front. Also called a Garbo hat slouch hat

(see under headwear).

262 headwear: snap-brim hat

snap-brim hat Man’s or woman’s hat with the spoon bonnet Small-crown edbonnet of early

brim worn at several different angles accord- 1860s with brim narrow at sides and project-

ing to the preference of the wearer. Also see ing upward above forehead in elliptical shape.

headwear: Rex Harrison hat. Statue of Liberty visor Headband with seven

snood Hairnet made from chenille, spikes and visor in front worn during “Lib-

mesh, or other material worn at the erty Weekend” in 1986 in celebration of the

back of the head and nape of neck renovation of the Statue of Liberty in New

to confine the hair—sometimes York harbor.

attached to a hat. In 15th and snood steeple headdress See headwear: hennin.

16th c., nets decorated with pearls and jewels stephane 1. Decora ted cre s cent-shaped

were worn. During the Second Empire (1852– headdress worn in ancient Greece and Rome

1870) snoods of chenille or fine silk cord dec- by brides, or as a badge of office or wreath

orated with steel beads were worn over the used as a symbol of victory. 2. Ancient Greek

chignon (see under hairstyles). A c adogan term for anything that encircles the head;

net was a snood, popular in late 1870s and a coronal, diadem, or the brim of a helmet.

early 1880s particularly for young wom en and 3. Crown sent by Byzantine Emperors to

girls, that was som etimes made of knotted silk other monarchs and important dignitaries.

yarn, worn over crown of head and enclosing Also spelled stephanos.

the hair that hangs down the back . Also spelled Stetson® Trade name for a man’s hat manu-

catagan. Snoods are revived periodically. f actu rer of all types of hats, but of ten used

sombrero (som-brer′-oh) Mexican hat with a to mean a wide-brimmed Western-style hat,

tall, slightly tapered crown and large upturned especially the cowboy style (see under head-

brim. Worn in Mexico by peons in straw and wear).

by wealthier citizens in felt lavishly trimmed stocking cap A knitted or cro-

around the edge, sometimes with silver lace. cheted cap with a long pendant

H Also worn in Spain and the southwestern tail worn hanging down the back

United States, wh ere it is made of felt and or side frequently with a tassel on

s om ewhat similar to a ten-gallon hat. Der. the end. Also called toboggan cap.

Spanish, sombre, “to shade.” stovepipe hat See headwe a r: top

sombrero córdobes See headwear: gaucho hat.

hat. st roller Ca sual mannish felt hats stocking cap

soul cap See headwear: newsboy cap. worn by wom en for town and spect a tor sports

sou′wester/southwester Rain hat made with in 1930s and 1940s.

a dome-shaped sectioned crown and broad sugarloaf hat See headwear: capotain.

stitch edbrim—largerin back . Originally made sun bonnet Wide-brimmed fabric bonnet tied

of yellow oiled silk—now made of any water- under chin especially worn by infants and

proof fabric for children’s rainwear and fish- children for protection against the sun. Often

ermen. Der. First worn by fishermen in New made with pockets into which pieces of card-

England where a wind from the southwest board or other firm material could be slipped

m e a nt rain. in order to provide stiffness to the bri m . Worn

space helmet Helmet made of molded plastic originally by early pioneers on western treks

covering the head and neck completely and across the United States for protection against

fastening to collar around the top of the space the sun. Revived for Centennial celebrations

suit. Front secti on is made of see-through throughout the United States.

plastic with mirror-like reflective finish. swagger hat Informal sports hat, often felt, with

splyter-hat 16th-c. term for hat made of medium-sized brim turn ed down in front.

bra i ded split pieces of s trawra t h erthan whole Popular in 1930s and 1940s for men and

rounded stalks. Also spelled splinter. women.

headwear: toque 263

sweatband 1. Band, usually made of sheep- thrum 1. Short tufts of wool left on loom
skin leather, placed around the inside of a
man’s hat where crown joins the brim, to pro- a f ter fabric is cut away, which was knitted
tect hat from sweat. 2. A stretch ter rycloth
band worn around the head during exercise i n toworkmen’s caps in the United States, and
to absorb sweat.
England in 18th c. 2. Long-napped felt hat
tam/tam-o-shanter 1. “Tam” is a
shorten ed form of the Scottish worn in 16th c. Also called a thrummed hat.
“tam-o-shanter” u s ed in the
United States. It is a flat cap tiara (tee-ar′-ah) Curved band, often of metal
m ade in several ways : (a) out of tam
t wo circles of fabric—one complete and one set with jewe ls or flowers, worn on to p of
with hole cut in cen ter—sewed together at
the outer edge; (b) croch eted with pom pon woman’s head from ear to ear, giving effect of
on top for trim; (c) made out of piece of cir-
cular molded felt and also called a beret a crown. Sometimes used to hold a wedding
(see under headwe a r). 2. Genuine Scottish
tams are frequen t lymade out of long, shaggy veil. Also called demi-coronal.
s triped wool fabric and cut in segm ents so
that stripes form a pattern on the top. Usu- tilbury hat Man’s small hat with high tapered
a lly larger than other tams with a pom pon
at cen ter of c rown. Der. From the name of flat-topped crown and narrow rounded brim
the main character of Scottish poem written
by Robert Burns about 1791 called “Tam worn in 1830s.
O’Shanter.”
toboggan cap See headwear: stocking cap.
tea-cozy cap Cap introdu ced in late 1960s that
fits head closely to cover hair completely. Der. topee/topi Tropical helmet shaped more like
Quilted padded cover for teapots used to keep
the tea hot at the table. a hat with a wide brim, originally made of

templers/temples/templettes See headwear: cork 1⁄2″ thick. Worn particularly in the jungles
bosses.
as a protection from the sun. Does not fit
ten-gallon hat See headwear: cowboy hat
and sombrero. close to the head, because constructed with

terai hat Riding hat of fur or felt with red an air space between head and helmet. Also
lining, shaped som ewhat like a derby (see
under headwear), with large brim that had a called pith helmet. Der. Name refers to Euro-
metal vent in the crown. Made with two hats
sewed together at edges of brims and worn by pean cork.
British women, sometimes men, in tropical
climates since 1880s. top hat Man’s tall hat made of shiny

Thérèse/Teresa (ter- eece′) Largehood, held silk or beaver cloth with narrow
o ut with wire, design ed to go over tall bon-
n ets and hairstyles. Worn in France from brim. Differs from an opera hat
mid-1770s to 1790, later with an attached
shoulder cape. (see under headwe a r) in that

three-sto reys-and-a-basement Amusing the latter is always collapsible and
name given to woman’s hat of 1886 with very
high crown. made of du ll silk. Term used since top hat

about 1820 for a high crowned hat with a flat

top and narrow brim, sometimes slightly

rolled at the sides. Also called a chimney-pot

hat from the 1830s, when it replaced the

beaver hat. After this it was made by felting

rabbit hair on top of silk and applying steam

and pre s su re to make a smooth and shiny

surface. Also see headwear: silk hat. Also

called plug hat (American term for top hat),

pot hat, stovepipe hat (because of its resem-

blance to a stove pipe), or topper.

topper See headwear: top hat.

toque (tok) 1. A basic hat type

that has a high crown and is

generally brimless or may have

a very small brim. Can be made

in various shapes, often turban-

like. 2. Woman’s coif or head

scarf worn in the 16th and early

17th cs. toque #1

264 headwear: toquet

toquet (toe-ket′) Woman’s small drape d turban 1. Man’s headdress of Moslem origin

evening hat worn on back of head in 1840s. consisting of long scarf of linen, cotton, or

Made of satin or velvet with small turned-up silk wound around the head. Sometimes with

brim in front and trimmed with ostrich one loose end hanging down, or

feather. decorated with a jewel in center

toreador hat (tor-ayah′-dor) 1. See headwe a r: front. Sometimes consists of fabric

matador hat. 2. Woman’s hat of the 1890s wrapped around a fez (see under

with flat, shallow circular crown made of felt headwear) with crown showing.

or straw and worn tilted. Inspired by the opera 2. Adaptation of this draped hat turban #2
Carmen, starring Emma Calve. for women has beco me a classic

torsade (tor-sahd′) Coronet of pleated vel- style.

vet or tulle with long lappets (see under Turkey bonnet Term used in the 15th and

headwear) worn for ev ening by women in 16th-c. for man’s or woman’s tall cylindrical

1864. hat without a brim introduced to It a ly,

touring cap Leather or fabric cap with snap- France, and England from the East. Woman’s

down visor, frequentlytreated for water repel- style was shaped like inverted flower pot with

lency. Popular in the 1980s, it is copied from veil from crown passing under chin. Also call ed

earlier cap worn when “touring” in early 20th-c. Turkey hat.

automobiles. tutulus (toot-too′-luss) Ta ll cone-shaped hat

Trafalgar turban British woman’s evening worn by ancient Etruscan wom en with, or

turban of 1806 embroidered with Admiral without, upturned brim across the front.

Nelson’s name. Der. Named for British naval Tyrolean hat See headwear: Alpine hat.

victory near Cape Trafalgar, off Spanish coast, ugly British term for collapsible brim worn

in 1805. from late 1840s to mid-1860s over a bonnet

trencher hat Woman’s silk hat with trian- as a sunshade to protect weak eyes or when

H g ular brim coming to point above forehead, traveling. Made of series of cane half-hoops

worn in first decade of the 19th c. covered with silk. When not is use, folded up

tricorne ( try′-korn) 19th-c. like a calash.

term for variation of the umbrella brim Brim of woman’s hat set in

cocked hat (see unde r umbrella pleats, opens out to resemble an

h e adwear), turn ed up u m brella.

to form three equidistant under cap 1. Indoor cap made like a skull-

peaks with one peak in tricorne cap worn under hat by elderly men in 16th c.
2. Woman’s indoor cap usually shaped like a
center front. Also spelled tricorn.

trilby Man’s soft felt hat with supple brim coif (#3) worn under outdoor hat from 16th

worn from 1895 on. Der. Inspired by George to mid-19th c.

de Maurier’s 1894 novel Trilby. The following Valois hat (val-wa′) Velvet or be aver hat

year, Trilby was made into a play in which with brim of equal width all around worn by

Beerbohm Tree played the character Svengali, women in 1822.

in this type of hat. veil 1. Decora tive accessory usually made of l ace,

trooper cap Man’s or boy’s cap of leather or net, tulle, or sheer fabric placed on the head

leatherlike plastic with fur or pile lining and and usually draped down the back. May also

a flap around sides and back. Flaps can be drape over the face and shoulders. 2. Piece of

fo l ded down to keep ears warm or up to net or tulle attached to a hat. Introduced in

reveal lining. Der. Originally worn by state medieval times and called a coverchief. From

policeor “troopers ,” now used by mail carri ers, late 18th to end of 19th c. a piece of net, lace,

police officers, etc. or gauze worn attached to an outdoor bonnet

or hat worn by women. Arranged to cover headwear: yarmulka 265
part or the entire face or draped to back as
trimming. From 1890s veils extended to the united, this crown was worn together with the
chin. Worn intermittently since, mostlyas trim. red crown of lower Egypt.
Particularly worn in 1930s, 1940s, and 1950s. wide-awake Man’s 19th c. broad-brimmed
visor Stiffened part of a semicircle attached to low-crown ed hat of felt or other material used
a headband or to front of a cap to protect eyes for country wear.
from the sun. Also called bill. widow’s peak Sm a ll cap wired in heart-
vulture-winged headdress Egyptian queen’s shaped form with peak in center of forehead.
headdress with two wings hanging down on Originally worn by Catherine de Medici as
eitherside of the face with the uraeu s , or cobra a widow’s bonnet and much worn by Mary,
design of the sacred asp, usually attached to Queen of Scots. Also see headwear: Marie
center front. The vulture wings are a symbol Stuart bonnet.
of protection used by the Egyptians. wig hat Soft hat, often croch eted, that fits tightly
watch cap Knitted cap, fitting closely over around the face but blouses in the back. Some
head with turned-up cuff, made of navy-blue hats are entirely covered with feathers, some
wool yarn. Worn by sailors on with flowers. No hair shows from beneath the
watch, for other work duty, or as hat. Popular in mid-1960s.
a replacem ent for wh i te duck hat. Will iam Penn hat Medium-sized brim with
Adapted in other colors for sports- high-rounded crown worn forward on the
wear by men , women, and children. watch cap head. In trodu ced in late 1960s. Der. Similar to
Watteau hat (wat-toe′) Small hat for the sea- hat worn by William Penn (1644–1718) when
shore shaped like an upside-down saucer, worn he colonized Pennsylvania.
by women in 1866. Trimmed with ribbons wimple 1. Cloth worn to cover the chin of a
radiating from crown to edge of brim. Some- woman in the Mi d dleAges. Du ring the 14th c .,
times had a rosette with attach ed streamers on it gradually became a part of the customary
ri ght side. Der. Namedfor the artist Watteau. dress of widows, who wore it with a dark hood
welding cap Cap similar to a baseball cap but and vei l . It also became a part of the habits
with a relatively short vi s or (see under head- of some orders of nuns. Also called a barbe.
wear). 2. Gauze veil of 1809 worn with evening
Wellington hat Tall beaver hat worn by men dress.
in the 1820s and 1830s with a crown at least wind bonnet Lightweight foldup covering for
8″ high and flared at the top. Der. Named for head made of net, point d’esprit, or chiffon to
the first Duke of Wellington, British military protect hair.
hero who defeated Napoleon in the Battle of World War I helmet Cast metal helmet, with a
Waterloo in 1815. shallow crown and narrow brim, that did not
western hat High-crowned hat with a flat top cover the ears or conform to the shape of the
and wide brim frequently trimmed with a head, held on by a chin strap.
leather thong pulled through holes punched World War II helmet Cast metal helmet con-
at regular intervals around the crown. Has a forming closely to the shape of the head with
leather adjustable strap worn under the chin slightly upturned edge. When worn in battle,
to secure the hat, or permit it to hang down sometimes covered with a piece of multi-
the back. Similar to gaucho hat (see under colored fabric for camouflage.
headwear). yachting cap Cap, usually white, with flat crown
white crown Crown of ancient upper Egypt and black or navy blue visor, decorated with
made in tall cyl i n d ricalshape tapered in at top yacht-club emblem. Styled similar to a naval
and ending with a knob. When Egypt became officer’s cap, and also worn by yacht-club
members on boats.
yarmulka See headwear: skullcap.

266 headwear: yeoman hat

yeoman hat Woman’s fabric hat with puffed Henley neckline See necklines and collars.

crown gathered into wide band, sometimes Henley shirt See shirts.

with upturn ed brim worn with walking dress henna 1. Orange-colored dye, one of the earliest

from 1806 to 1812. dyes discovered, comes from the plant by the

zucchetto See clerical dress: calotte. same name. Egyptians used it to dye their fingers

to the first joint, simulating our nail polish. Also

head wrap See headwear. used on toes in some Eastern countries in early

heart breaker See hairstyles: crève-coeur and days. Used to dye fabrics in primitive times.

love lock. 2. Basic hair dye or rinse. 3. An orange color.

heart-s haped cut See gems, gem cuts, and hennin See headwear.

settings. Henrietta jacket See coats and jackets.

heart-shaped headdress See headwear. Henry II collar See necklines and collars.

heather effect † Appearance of fabric achieved Henry IV collar See necklines and collars.

by blending dyed fibers with white fibers to pro- hense lynes/henselyns See doublet.

duce a mottled appearance. First made in laven- Hercules braid See braids.

der tones similar to the flowers of the heather herigaut See gardecorps.

plant, but now made in many different colors. hérisson See hairstyles.

heat setting † Process used to set, by applying Herkimer diamond See gems, gem cuts, and

heat and pressure, permanent pleats or creases settings.

in fabrics made of manfactured fibers such as herl See feathers.

nylon, polyester, and acetate. herlot See harlot.

Hedebo See em broi deries and sewing stitches. Herman, Stan * See Appendix/Designers.

hedgehog See hairstyles: coiffure à Hermés * See Appendix/Designers.

l’herisson. heroin chic Term applied to fashion advertising

heel 1. See footwear. 2. See hosiery. and magazine photogra phy style of the late 1980s

H heel horn See footwear: A.T.P. and 1990s in which models appear emaciated,
heelless hose See hosiery. pale, and unkempt, with large circles under their

heel lift See footwear: heels. eyes; an appearance likened to that of hard-drug

heels See footwear. addicts.

Heim, Jacques * See Appendix/Designers. Herrera, Carolina * See Appendix/Designers.

heliodor See gems, gem cuts, and settings. herringbone Pattern made of short, slanting par-

heliotrope See gems, gem cuts, and settings: allel lines adjacent to other rows slanting in re-
bloodstone. verse direction, creating a continuous V-shaped

helmet See headwear. design like the bones of a fish. Used in tweeds,

hem See clothing construction details. embroidery, and in working of fur skins.

hematite See gems, gem cuts, and settings. herringbone chain See jewelry.

hemispherical hat See headwear. herringbone stitch See embroideries and sew-

hemming stitch See embroideries and sewing ing stitches: catch stitch.

stitches. herringbone weave † Chevron pattern produ ced

hemp † A coarse, strong, lustrous fiber from the in a fabric by using the twill weave for several

stem of the hemp plant. Cultivation of hemp rows in one direction, then reversing the direc-

plants is illegal in the United States because the tion. Usually made of yarns of two colors in

plant is from the same family as mar ijuana; yarn-dyed woolen fabric with thick yarns pro-

however, sale of hemp fabrics and fibers is legal ducing a large pattern. Also called broken tw ill

and the fiber is used for making apparel. weave.

hemstitch/hemstitching See em broideries and Hessian boot See footwear.

sewing stitches. heuke See headwear.

Henley boater See headwear. heuse See footwear.

hippie/hippie look 267

hickory stripes See prints, stripes, and himation (he-matt′-ee-own)
ch ecks.
Greek mantle in the form of a
hidden rivets jeans Jeans with rivets hidden in-
side the pockets, manufactured by Levi Strauss rectangular shawl, 31⁄2 to 4 yards
between 1937 and about 1960.
long and about 11⁄2 yards wide
high button shoe See footwear.
high cut See footwear. that was worn alone or over a
h igh fashion Apparel of adva n ceddesign available
tunic by men and women in an-
from innovative designers and/or firms. It is
usually more expensive. cient Greece. Made of wool or
high hat See headwear: top hat.
high head See hairstyles. linen—usually white with bor-
Highland dress Traditi onal man’s costume of Scots
Highlander, consisting of kilt; plaid over one der—it was usually draped over
shoulder fastened by brooch; scarlet jacket; wide
belt with sporran attached; feather bonnet or the left shoulder and wrapped
glengarry cap (see under headwear); plaid-
top socks; and buttoned gaiters over shoes. Cos- under the right arm; sometimes
tume was forbidden by law from 1747 to 1782.
Also see plaids and tartans. one end was pull ed over the himation
Highland suit Boy’s suit of 1880s and early 1890s head.
consisting of jacket, kilt, glengarry cap (see
under headwear), and plaid socks copied from hinged bracelet See jewelry.
Highland dress. Also called a Scotch suit.
highlights See hairstyles. hip bags Slang term in 1883 for folds of skirt
high-rise pants See pants.
high-rise waistline See waistlines. forming panniers at hips. Also called curtain
high tech fabrics/hi-tech fabrics Fabrics made
f rom manu f actured fibers with special per- drapery in the United States and pompadour in
formance characteristics (e.g., water repellence,
strength, stretch, heat resistance). Such fabrics England.
have been used for fashion goods, especially in
the area of clothing for active sports. Also called hip boot See footwear.
high performance fibers.
hikers See footwear. hip buttons See closures.
hiking boot See footwear.
hiking costume Costume worn by women in hip-hop A style of dancing associated with rap
1890s consisting of serge or ligh ter- weight
bloomers, pleated or gathered at the waist and music that began in the Bronx in New York City.
pulled down below the knee. Worn with a tight-
fitting Eton-type jacket with large lapels; a white B-boys (break boys) of 1970s (their female fol-
shirt; man’s necktie; serviceable shoes with flat
heels worn with puttees (see under footwear) lowers were called flygirls) developed an athletic
or high-top laced boots to below the knee; and
hat similar to a cowboy hat with high uncreased dance style. When this music and dance became
crown and wide brim. Worn f or mountain
climbing and hiking. part of the mainstream in the 1980s, fans imi-
Hilfiger, Tommy * See Appendix/Designers.
tated styles worn by B-bo ys and flygir ls and

wore bright, baggy clothes, football or baseball

shirts, baseball caps turned backward, and high

running shoes with untied shoe laces, designer

sportswear, athletic shoes, and large-scale gold

jewel ry. In the 1990s, mainstream fashion design-

ers such as tommy hilfiger incorporated hip-

h op styles into their lines, and hip-hop influences

permeated styles worn by the young. Around

2001, fans of rap music began to wear clip-on

covers for their teeth, called fronts, made of gold

and set with diamonds or other gems. When a

person wearing these devices smiled, it was said

that his or her smile had bling.

hip-hugger Contemporary term fo r low-slung

pants, skirt, or belt worn bel ow normal waistline,

resting on hip bones.

hip length See lengths.

Hiplets® See hosiery.

hippie/hippie look Term coined in mid-1960s

for young pers on who defied establ i s h edcustoms

and adopted an unconventional mode of dress

268 hip rider swimsuit

(e.g., long uncombed hair, loose fit, a high neck, and long sleeves. Over the

aged blue jeans, miscella- years these garments have changed somewhat as

neous tops, f ri n gedjackets, fashions changed, but retain these basic lines in

strings of beads, symbolic either more or less fitted versions and are still

pendants, pouch bags, bare worn for formal occasions by women of Hawaiian

feet, or sandals). Started a descent.

trend toward ethnic fash- holster pockets See pockets.

ions and unusual mixtures holy work/hollie work See embroideries and

of dress. sewing stitches.

hip-rider swimsuit See homburg See headwear.

activewear. home fashions Tex tile produ cts used for home

hipsters 1. See pants: hip- end uses such as towels, bedding, draperies, and

hu ggers. 2. Fans of Bebop table linens, and wh i ch exhibit style changes over

music, played by Dizzy hippie look time in response to changing fashion trends.

Gillespie in the 1940s, who wore berets, color- home party See party plan.

ful, wide scarves, sunglasses, and goatees (see homespun † Fabrics made from handspun yarns

beards). and woven on a hand loom. Most are plain weave,

hi-rise girdle See undergarments. loosely constructed, heavy wool fabrics made of

his and hers look Garments that look alike but coarse, uneven yarns. Contem porary versions are

that are specifically made one for a man, the now made with automatic looms from manu-

other for a woman—as distinct from “unisex- factured and wool blends and imitate the texture

look,” wh ere garm ents were actually inter- and appearance of the handmade fabrics.

changeable. Popular for pajamas du ring the 1950s. honeycomb † Any fabric that forms a series of

During the late 1960s, popular for all typ es of recessed squares similar to a waffle and is made

clothing, particularly pantsuits with matching either in a hon eycomb we ave or knit. Co t ton

H vest, caped coats, shirts, and sweaters. Also see fabrics are frequentlycall ed waffle-cloth. Th ey are

unisex look. sometimes erroneously called waffle piqués.

hive bonnet See headwear: beehive hat #1. honeycomb stitch See embroideries and sew-
H-line Straight silhouette, or dress, marked by a ing stitches.

low horizontal belt or seam and called H by Paris Honiton gossamer skirt See undergarments.

designer Christian Dior in 1957. Honiton lace See laces.

hobble skirt See skirts. hood See headwear.

hockey skate See footwear. hooded heel See footwear.

hogger/hoker See footwear: oker. hooded seal See furs: hair seal.

holbein stitch (hole-bine) See embroideries and hook and eye See closures.

sewing stitches: double-running stitch. hook-and-loop closure See closures: Velcro.®

Holbein work (hole-bine) See embroideries hoop bracelet See jewelry: bangle bracelets.

and sewing stitches. hoop earrings See jewelry: gypsy earrings.

Hollywood top slip See undergarments. hoop petticoat See undergarments: hoops.

holoku (hoh-low′-koo) Trad i ti onal Hawaiian ga r- hoops See undergarments.

m ent derived from theempire dress styles worn hoop skirt See skirts.

by American missionary women when they ar- Hoover apron See aprons.

rived in Hawaii in the early 1880s. Hawaiian Hope Star® See gems, gem cuts, and settings.

royalty asked the mission a ries to make them Hopi bracelet See jewelry.

dresses, and the resulting gowns were altered hopsacking † A broad classification of fabrics

slightly to accommodate the larger size of the made in loosely constructed plain we ave of

Hawaiians and the climate. The full-length gar- coa rse uneven yarns. The fabric was originally

ment had a yoke from which the dress fell in a found in s acks made from coa rse undyed jute

or hemp into which hops were put during har- hosiery: bikini pantyhose 269
vesting. Made in co t ton, spun rayon, and man-
ufactured fibers. Coarse varieties also called all-sheer pantyhose Sheer nylon pantyhose
burlap. made with no reinforcements. Also call ed sheer
hoqueton/houqueton See armor: acton. pantyhose.
horizontal integration The produ cti on by a bu si-
ness of products competi tive with other products ankle-length hosiery Sock-length hosiery
it makes. For example, a knitted fabric producer m ade out of conventional nylon yarn. Worn
that makes various types of knitted fabrics. Also by women with full-length slacks or pants.
see vertical integration.
Horn, Carol * See Appendix/Designers. ankle sock Short sock reaching only to
horned headdress See headwear. the ankle; may be worn turned down or
horn rims See eyewear. have elastic top on the cuff. Introduced ankle
horsehair 1. † Hair fiber obtainedfrom the mane for women in 1920. This caused a sen- sock
or tail of a horse. 2. Fabric made from this fiber sation when they were first wo rn at Forest
used in combination with mohair, linen, cotton, Hills, New York, for an amateur tennis match
and other fibers woven in an openwork weave. in 1931 by Mrs. Fearnley-Whittingstall. Worn
Used for interfacing in suits, coats, and also for today by women and children and infrequently
stiffening. by men. Also called anklet. Also see hosiery:
horsehair braid See braids. bobby sock.
horsehide See leathers.
horseshoe Term for U-shape, used as neckline or anklet See hosiery: ankle sock.
yoke on blouses, sweaters, and dresses. anti-embolism stocking A stocking specially
horseshoe collar/horseshoe neckline See n eck-
lines and collars. constructed with graduated compression that
horseshoe jumper See jumpers. aids bl ood flow and prevents bl ood clots from
hose See hosiery. forming. Also called surgical stockings.
argy le socks Sock knitted in a diamond pat-
hosiery tern of several colors by hand or on a
jacquard loom. Heel, toe, and top areas are of
Knitted item of wearing apparel covering the solid color while the other part is of a mu l ti-
foot and/or leg. Includes apparel also called colored, diamond-patterned plaid. Der. Tartan
stockings and socks (see under hosiery). of Duke of Argyle and Clan Campbell of
For forerunners of knitted hosiery, s ee Argyll, a county in W est Scotland. Also
chausses and chaussembles in the alpha- spelled argyll, argyl.
betical listing. A machine for knitting stock- Art Deco hose Hose printed with geometric
ings was invented in the late 1500s, and the designs derived from Art Deco styles, which
inventor presented Queen Elizabeth I with a underwent a re vival in the late 1960s. Der.
pair of knitted silk stockings. Ho s i ery was French, art decoratif, “decorative art.”
made from cotton, linen, wool, and silk yarns. A rt N o uveau hose Stylized single or multiple
Among the innovations in the development printed designs placed on the calf or climb-
of hosiery were “flesh-colored,” or beige, silk ing the leg, usually on op a que or co l ored
hosiery in the 1920s, the introduction of nylon hose, based on Art Nouveau designs. An inn o-
hose in 1940, textured hose in the 1960s, and vati on of the late 1960s. Der. French, “n ew
pantyhose ( s eeunder hosiery) in the 1960s. art.”
Synonym: hose (see under hosiery). Der. astrolegs hose Hose imprinted with signs of
Anglo-Saxon hosa. the zodiac, introduced in the late 1960s.
athletic sock See hosiery: sweatsock.
all-in-one pantyhose See hosiery: pantyhose. bed sock Knit sock worn when sleeping to keep
foot warm. Often hand-knit in a variety of
fancy stitches. Also called foot warmer.
bikini pantyhose Pantyhose with low-slung top
for wear with bare-midriff dresses, hip-hugger
skirts, or low-slung pants.

270 hosiery: blazer sock

blazer sock Boys’ and girls’ socks decorated detachable pantyhose Three-piece pantyhose

with bands of color. Similar in effect to com- made with patented bands on panties to attach

petitive stripes on knit shirts. replacement stockings.

bobby sock Ankle sock, usually with turned- dress sock Man’s sock in lightweight, silkytype ,

down cuff, worn by children and so univer- nonbulky yarns in conservative colors.

sally popular with female teenagers during electric sock Heavyweight knee-high sock,

1940s and 1950s that young girls were called usually made of a combination of fibers, with

“bobby soxers.” a specially designed heating element operated

bodyshaper pantyhose See hosiery: panty- by a battery held on by strap around the leg.

hose. Worn by spectators at winter sp orts events.

boot That part of pantyhose or stocking that Trademarked by Timely Products Corp. and

extends from the panty or welt to the toe. called Lectra-Sox.®

boot hose Long stockings of coa rse linen English rib sock Man’s sock knit with a wide

with flared tops. The tops sometimes had rib or wale and a narrow depression between

decora ted borders made of gold or silver the wales (see wale #2).

l ace, ruffled linen, or fringed silk, which were fancies Men’s socks in multicolor designs.

called boot hose tops. When made with no finger band In all nude pantyhose, a rei n force-

foot, fitted with a strap under arch of foot and m ent just under the waistband to pro tect

laced through eyelets at top to connect with against fingernail punctures.

breeches, they were called stirrup hose. Worn fishmouth toe Method of closing a non reci-

by men from mid-15th to 18th c. to protect procating toe (see hosiery: reciprocating

silk stockings under heavy boots. Also called construction) in which the seam runs par-

boot stocking. allel to the bottom of the foot rather than

boot hose tops See hosiery: boot hose. across the top of the toe.

bootie See footwear: bootie #2. fishnet hose Openwork hose in a diamond-

H checkerboard hose Hose knitted in a checked shaped pattern.

design with some squares sheer and some flat-knit hose See hosiery: full-fashioned

opaque, or knitted in two colors. hose.

clocked hose Hose or stockingsthat have footsock/footie Sock that ends below the ankle

designs running part way up the sides bone. When these socks have a pompon sewn

of the legs. First worn in the 16th c. and on at the back, they may be called poms.

intermittently since. Designs may be foot warmers See hosiery: bed sock.

knitted in or embroidered on after hose clocked full-fashioned hose Hose knit in flat pieces
and seamed up the back, leaving fashion mark s
are knitted. hose

control pantyhose See hosiery: pantyhose. where knitting is increased or decreased. Also

Courrèges flower sock See hosiery: knee-hi called flat-knit hose.

sock. garter belt hose Hose attached to two elastic

crew sock Heavy sock extending to lower calf strips that connect at waistline to an elastic

with foot knitted in plain st itch, upper part band around waist.

with rib stitch. Originally white and worn for glitter hose Hose made of shiny yarn—some

rowing and other sports. Now made in colors, made with metallic yarn that reflects silver,

especially for men and boys. gold, and copper tones. Introduced to wear

cushion-sole sock Sock worn for active sports with minidresses in the 1960s. Also called

knit with a special sole that keeps the foot glimmer, silver, gold or metallic hose.

from blistering—often a layer of cotton and gold hose See hosiery: glitter hose.

s tretch-nylon terry cloth. Frequen t ly given a gym sock See hosiery: sweatsock.

s pecial finish to help pro tect the foot from half-hose Standard-length stocking for men that

fungus, bacteria, and odor. ends halfway between the ankle and the knee.

hosiery: opaque hose/opaque pantyhose 271

heel Porti on of the hose that fits the heel of the legwarmer Knitted covering for legs ex-
foot.
tending from the ankle to the knee or
heelless hose Hosiery without a double re-
inforcement at the heel. above. Originally worn by ballet and

hose Synonym for stockings (see hosiery) toe dancers when exercising and in the
and hosiery (see introduction to hosiery).
Current usage suggests that hose tends to be 1980s became a fashion item.
used when referring to the more transparent
and decorative vari eties of hosiery, while lisle hosiery(lyle) Socks and hose made leg
“stockings” is used for heavier varieties of a warmers
more utilitarian nature. of cotton lisle yarn, smooth, lustrous

jacquard hose (ja-kard′) Hosiery knit on a cotton yarn. Nearly as fine as silk, usually
jacquard knitting machine that permits much
variation in colors and patterns. Argyle and white, brown, or black, lisle hosiery was worn
h erringbone designs would be examples of
jacqu a rd patterns. Popular in the 1920s for by men, wom en, and children throughout
children, and fashionable since.
19th and early 20th c. until replaced by silk
jeweled pantyhose Sheer pantyhose with em-
broidery at ankle trimmed with rhinestones. in 1920s and nylon in 1940s. Revived in the
Introduced in 1986.
1960s when longer opaque socks were popu-
knee-high hose Hose of conventional nylon
yarn or of nylon and spandex that come to lar. See hosiery: opaque hose. Der. Early
just below the knees and are finished at the
top with elastic. F i rst made in beige and spelling of Lille, France.
worn when dresses were long, now worn with
various types of pants and after the 1980s fea- m esh hose Nylon hose knit with a milanese
tured in black, white, and colors. Sometimes
abbreviated to knee-hi. stitch, forming tiny diamond designs that make

knee-hi sock Sock that reaches to below hose run-resistant. See milanese knit.
the knee. Worn by boys in early 1900s
with knickers and accepted for girls in metallic hose See hosiery: glitter hose.
1920s and 1930s and after. Adopted
by teenagers and adult women in the knee mini-pane hose See hosiery: windowpane
1960s as the popularity of the mini in- high
creased. Featured by the French coutu- socks hose.
rier Courrèges in his co ll ection in 1965. In 1967
he introdu ced a variation called the Courrèges mock seam Hosiery industry term for seam
flower sock ( coor-rej′), a dainty feminine sock
coming to several inches below the knee usu- sewed into circular-knit hose to give appear-
a lly styled in wh i tewith lacy top, em broidered
with flowers . Also call ed knee sock, trouser sock. ance of full-fashioned hose (see under

knee sock See hosiery: knee-hi sock. hosiery).
lace hose Knitted lace in rose, Chantilly, and
neats Solid color socks ornamented with small,
Spanish lace patterns used to make hosiery.
Introduced in 1960s and popular for children evenly spaced designs such as dots.
and women in 1980s.
lace pantyhose Pantyhose made of patterned neon sock Ankle- or knee-length sock styled
stretch lace in openwork styles.
with ribbed tops in extremely bright colors of

100% nylon.

nonreciprocated See hosiery: reciprocated

construction.

novelties Women’s hosiery that has unusual

patterns, designs, or coloring.

nylons Now synonymous with women’s hose

because of the almost universal use of nylon

in dress hose for women. Trademarked nylon

yarn was introduced in 1939, making possible

a mu chsheerer type of hose that was also more

durable than the silk hosiery worn previously.

In great demand during World War II, nylon

hosiery became a “black market” item.

nude heel Wom en’s pantyhose or nylon stock-

ings that have no reinforcement at the heel.

Popular for wear with backless or sling-back

shoes.

opaque hose/opaque pantyhose (oh-pake′)

Textured or plain hose or pantyhose that are