WOVEN FABRIC DESIGN AND STRUCTURE

44 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

Tutorial 2B

Match the following term in weaving draft

Pointed Draft

Straight Draft

Broken Draft

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 45

Tutorial 2C

Match the following term

Weave Plan The interlacement of warp and weft yarn is
Drafting Plan called weave plan
Denting Plan
The process of inserting warp yarn through
reed is called denting plan

The process of drawing the warp yarn into the
heald eye according to the weave plan or
design is called drafting plan.

46 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

Tutorial 2D

Complete a weaving plan based on the fabric sample given

D.I.D L.P D.I.D L.P

D.I.D L.P D.I.D L.P

D.I.D L.P Weave L.P
D.I.D

Weave Weave

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 47

Tutorial 2E

1. Construct a weaving Plan from a Given Weave with 4, 6 and 8 shafts

2. Construct a Weave from a Given Draft and Lifting Plan

48 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

3. Construct a Draft from a Given Lifting Plan and Weave

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 49

CHAPTER 350 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

SIMPLE WEAVE DESIGN

3.1 Fundamental weave design

The basic weave design in a woven fabric consists of plain weave, twill weave satin or
sateen weave. Basically, the design has a total number of warp yarns and weft yarns in a
repeat which is equal to the number of the repeat size. For example, a plain weave has 2 X 2
repeat size, Twill 1/3 has 4 X 4 repeat size and Sateen 5/3 has 5 X5 repeat size. Inside the
repeat, it has only one warp yarn or one weft yarn that has overlapping. In figure 3.1 the thick
line represents a repeat of the fundamental design and the red colored in a repeat for warp
overlap or weft overlap which has only one warp or weft yarn.

8 10
9
7 8
7
6 6
5
5 4
3
44 2
1
33 123456 7 8

22 Sateen 5/3
Repeat Size: 5X5
11

1234 12345678 9 10

Plain Weave Twill 1/3
Repeat Size: 2X2 Repeat Size: 4X4

Figure 3.1: Characteristics of fundamental weave design

Generally, the fundamental weave can be compared through its properties either
physically or mechanically. Below is table 3.1 showing the difference between plain, twill and
satin weave structure.

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 51

Table 3.1 Comparison between fundamental weave properties

Weave Design Plain weave Twill weave Satin weave
Smooth
Physical Surface effect Flat Twill line Good
properties Poor Fair Good

Luster Poor if long float
High
Wrinkle Poor Fair High
resistance

Snag resistance Good Good

Mechanical Tensile strength Low Medium
properties Low Medium

Tearing strength

3.1.1 Plain weave

The simplest weave design among the fundamental weave with simple construction
where the warp and weft yarns passing over and under each other alternately. There are two
types of plain weave fabric which are balanced and unbalanced fabric. The balanced fabric
refers to the usage of similar yarn count for each warp yarn and weft yarn as well as fabric
count which the total ends per cm is equal to picks per cm. In fabric production, minimum
two shaft is adequate but if the total ends are large, four to six shafts with skip draft can be
used. Usually it uses either crank shaft or tappet camshaft to produce shedding motion. Figure
3.2 shows an example of plain weave using fibre glass yarn.

Figure 3.2 Plain weave fabric using fibre glass.

52 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 4X X
II
2X X X X
1X X X X 3X X

2X X

I

1X X

8 8
7 7
6 6
5 5
4 4
3 3

2 2

Ry 1 Ry 1

12345678 12345678

Rx Rx
(a) (b)

Figure 3.3 Plain weave with (a) straight draft minimum 2 shaft and (b) skip draft

There are many types of fabrics made up of plain weave with different trade name
such as muslin, linen, alpaca, taffeta, and calico which are mostly common plain fabric.
Generally, the plain weave fabric has common properties which are:
i. Face and back of the fabric are identical.
ii. Highly interlaced causing resistance to shear movement, tightness and stable.
iii. Stronger and finer compare to other structure.
iv. Have various outlook although same design due to different type of parameters such

as yarns, tension, and density.

3.1.2 Twill weave

The twill weave is the next significant weave design after a plain weave. It is a diagonal
rib pattern due to the order of interlacing of warp float or weft float on the fabric (figure 3.4).
The parameters of twill weave are; the repeat is equal or to 3 (R > 3) and the horizontal shift,

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 53

Sy equal to vertical shift, Sy equal to +1 or –1 (Sy = Sx = + 1). Figure 3.5 shows an example of
Twill 1/2, the minimum repeat in twill Rx = (1 + 2), Ry = (1 + 2) which repeat size, R = 3 X 3 (thick
line). In the construction, the horizontal shift can be positive (a) or negative (b) which
produces different line directions. The line in the face of the fabric is opposite to the back side
and if warp floats dominate the face, the weft float will dominant the back side and vice versa.
Straight draft is the common draft to be used in the construction of twill fabric.

Figure 3.4 Appearance of twill weave fabric

a) Twill 1/2 (Right-Hand Twill or Z Twill) 6
6 5
5 4
4 3
2
Sy + 1 3 1
R=3X3 2
123456
1 Back side fabric
123456
Face side fabric

b) Twill 1/2 (Left-Hand Twill or S Twill)

66

55

44

Sy - 1 3 3
R=3X3 2 2

11

123456 123456

Face side fabric Back side fabric

Figure 3.5 Twill 1/2 with different characteristics.

54 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

Twill weave has different properties as given below:
i. Diagonal ribs with right to left or left to right formation.
ii. Depending on the line of the face side fabric, it is classified as Z twill or S twill.
iii. More pliable than plain weave and better drapability and stability compared to satin

weave.
iv. Generates a heavier fabric with enhanced drapability due to the closer placement of

the yarn.
v. Commonly used higher warp yarn count compared to weft yarn count to produce

warp effect and vice versa.
The twill line can be adjusted on its angle according to a) the interlacement condition
of the warp or weft yarn and b) the relative number of warps per inch or wefts per inch. A
regular twill will have one pick shift and one end shift with 45° twill line as shown in
figure 3.6.

Figure 3.6: 45° of twill line for regular twill
In determining the angle of twill, a formula below can be used:

Twill angle, θ = tan-1 [(The number of shift weft way, Sy X Ends/cm) ÷ (The number of
shift warp way, Sx X Picks/cm)]

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 55

There are two conditions of the twill line, which are:
a) Steep twill

In this condition, the twill weave must have more than one Sy and one Sx.

Example,
Sy = 2, Sx = 1, Ends per cm = 35 and Picks per cm = 25.

Θ = tan-1 [(Sy X EPI) ÷ (Sx X PPI)]
= tan-1 [(2 X 35) ÷ (1 X 25)]
= tan-1 2.8
= 70°

b) Reclining twill
The twill weave has more than one Sx and one Sy.

Example,
Sx = 3, Sy = 1, Ends per cm = 35 and Picks per cm = 25.

Θ = tan-1 [(Sy X EPI) ÷ (Sx X PPI)]
= tan-1 [(1 X 35) ÷ (3 X 25)]
= tan-1 0.46
= 25°

Figure 3.7 Twill angle

56 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

3.1.3 Sateen and Satin weave

The third fundamental weave in a weave design for woven fabric. The design is quite
different compared to plain and twill weave. Generally, it can be divided into sateen, satin
and irregular sateen or satin (figure 3.8). The fabric is woven using cotton, silk, polyester or
both where polyester satin or sateen is more lustrous compared to cotton satin or sateen due
to its fibre properties. Its unbalanced fabrics depending on which effect is preferred either
ends per inch, EPI is greater than picks per inch, PPI or vice versa. In form of strength, it is
better than plain and twill because of the dominant yarn floating which lessen the yarn crimp.
Yarn crimp is among reason how the strength of woven fabric decreases due to the behavior
between fibre and yarns when subjected to load. However, due to its yarns mobility the seam
strength is poor.

Figure 3.8 Fabric surface of Satin weave

Sateen weave or weft face fabric has the surface where most of it are weft floats which
in a repeat only one warp overlaps while the rest is weft overlap as shown in figure 3.9. The
reason is to have a maximum smoothness and luster because of the effect from the float of
the weft yarns while the warp overlap is to bind the floating weft yarn. The PPI is more than
EPI and the quality of weft yarn is more superior to increase the weft effect. The parameter
to build sateen weave are; the repeat, R must equal or more than 5 with the repeat number
must be prime numbers. The horizontal shift, Sy is more than 1 but less than R minus 1. The

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 57

shift, S and the repeat, R is represented in a fraction where the numerator is the R while
denominator is the shift.

Shift 7 123

Sateen 7 / 3 63 12

Repeat 5 123
Parameter:
R>5 423 1
1 < Sy < (R-1)
3 123

2123

1
1234567

Figure 3.9 Regular Sateen 7/3

The satin weave also called as warp face fabric as it has warp effect where the floating
warp yarns is more dominate in the fabric surface. The EPI is greater than PPI and it is woven
with high quality of warp yarn compared to weft yarn. The weft overlap act as the binder and
the shift is in a vertical shift, Sx. Figure 3.10 shows an example of Satin 7/3.

Satin 7/3 7 12

Parameter: 631
R>5
1 < Sx < (R-1) 5 23

4 123

33 12

223 1

1123
1234567

Figure 3.10 Regular Satin 7/3

However, there are common shift numbers being used in the construction of sateen weave
which is shown in table below.

58 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

Table 3.2 Suitable shift numbers for the construction on satin weaves.

Repeat of Satin Suitable shift number

5 end 2

7 end 2 and 3

8 end 3

9 end 2 and 4

10 end 3

11 end 2, 3, 4 and 5

12 end 5

13 end 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6

14 end 3 and 5

15 end 2, 4 and 7

(Source: Fabric structure and design, N. Gokarneshan)

Apart from those mentioned above, there are some differences between satin and sateen as
mentioned below:

Table 3.3 The difference between satin weave and sateen weave

Satin weave Sateen weave

Warp faced fabric. Weft faced fabric.

EPI is higher than PPI. PPI is higher than EPI.

Low strength compares to sateen weave. High strength compares to satin weave.

Many broken ends on the face side. Almost no broken picks.

Hairiness due to high EPI causing abrasion Low warp breakage due to low EPI reduce

between warp yarns. abrasion between warp yarns.

Low quality. High quality.

High shrinkage warp wise due to less PPI. Less warp shrinkage due to high PPI.

Fabric used other than garment making. Fabric for garment making.

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 59

3.2 Derivatives from Fundamentals Weaves

It is derived from fundamentals weave which means deriving from plain weave, twill
weave and satin weave. The derivation is on the floats, number of shifts, direction of the
diagonal lines but still retain its structural features.

3.2.1 Plain weave derivatives

The plain weave can be derived by extending in the warp direction, weft direction or
both ways. It is a common weave namely as warp rib, weft rib and hopsack. It can be woven
using tappet, dobby and jacquard system with minimum of two heald shaft. Rib weave mostly
can be found in the application of window blinds and upholstery, but hopsack has variety of
usage especially for garment purpose.

a. Warp rib
It is produced by extending the plain weave in the warp direction and can be

constructed into regular or irregular warp rib. The construction of warp rib is being described
in a fraction with the numerator as the warp overlapping while the denominator as the weft
overlap within the same yarn. The total number of the numerator and denominator will equal
to the weft repeat and physically it will appear extending vertically. Regular warp rib will have
constant number of warp overlap and weft overlap but irregular warp rib will have variable
number as shown in figure 3.11. The appearance of warp rib can be enhanced by increasing
the numbers of PPI and lowered the numbers of EPI.

Regular Warp Rib Irregular Warp Rib

a) Warp Rib 2/2 b) Warp Rib 3/3 c) Warp Rib 2/1 d) Warp Rib 4/2

Figure 3.11 Regular and Irregular Warp Rib

60 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

b. Weft Rib

Weft rib is the opposite to warp rib and the yarn floating extending horizontally. It is
also being described using a fraction with numerator as warp overlapping and denominator
as weft overlapping and the total number of numerator and denominator is equal to the warp
repeat.

Regular Weft Rib

a) Weft Rib 2/2 b) Weft Rib 3/3 c) Weft Rib 4/4

Irregular Weft Rib

a) Weft Rib 2/1 b) Weft Rib 4/2 c) Weft Rib 6/3

Figure 3.12 Regular and Irregular Weft Rib

c. Hopsack weave
The hopsack weave also known as basket weave or matt weave. The construction of the

structure is extending the plain weave in both directions, vertically and horizontally. It uses
fraction to describe the weave which numerator is the number of warp overlapping while
denominator is weft overlapping. The total number of the numerator and denominator is
equal to the number of warp repeat and weft repeat. The regular hopsack weave result from
equal extension of warp and weft direction but for irregular hopsack the extension is uneven
(figure 3.13).

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 61

Regular Hopsack Irregular Hopsack

a) Hopsack 2/2 b) Hopsack 3/3 c) Hopsack 3/4 d) Hopsack 3 2 .
22

Figure 3.13 Regular and Irregular Hopsack

3.2.2 Twill weave derivatives

It is the derivation of regular twill weave which will construct new weaves with
appearances like diagonal design. There are many designs of derivatives of twill and can be
produced in many ways.

a. Expanded Twill Weave
It is the derivation of the fundamental twill weave as each warp yarn or weft yarn being

raised or lowered more than one yarn in the repeat. It is denoted by a fraction of 2/3, 3/2,
2/4, 4/2, etc.

62 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

a) Twill 2/3 Z b) Twill 3/2 S

5 5
4 4
3 3
2 2
1 1

12345 12345

c) Twill 2/4 Z d) Twill 4/2 S

66

55

44

33

22

11

123456 123456

Figure 3.14 Expanded Twill Weave

b. Reinforced Twill Weave
It is the simplest derivatives twill which the construction is by adding warp or weft

overlap besides the fundamentals twill weave. The properties of the original twill weave can
be maintained due to its similarity of the structure but increased its bonding. Figure 3.15
shows examples of reinforced twill derived from original twill weave which has only one warp
overlap being increased into several warp overlap.

a) Twill 2/2 b) Twill 3/2 c) Twill 2/3

Figure 3.15 Examples of reinforced twill weave

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 63

c. Compound Twill

Compound twill or multiple twill weave is a combination of two or more twill weave in

a repeat. It retains the properties of its original twill but each repeat will have at least two

warp or weft twill lines. The repeat size for warp and weft way is the total number of the

fraction, for example figure 3.16 a) Repeat size, R = 7 X 7 and b) 10 X 10. It uses straight draft

whereas the total number of shafts is same with the repeat.

7 9
5 8
4 7
3 6
2 5
1 4
3
1234567 2
1

123456789

a) Twill 3 1 b) Twill 2 1 1
21 122

Figure 3.16 Examples of compound twill

d. Angled Twill
Angled twill is also known as pointed twill, zig zag twill or wavy twill. It has the

construction of one direction twill and at one point it then reversed to the next direction.
Angled twill can be divided into two types according to the reversing direction which are
horizontal angled twill and vertical angled twill.

Horizontal angled twill has the base twill runs along the warp way, at the reversed point
the twill direction reversed upon the warp direction. Therefore, the base twill will be
extended in warp direction and usually it used pointed draft. The construction of horizontal
angled twill is as follows.

64 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

i. Calculate the repeat
Ry = Ryb
Rx = 2 Kx – 2

Ry = Weft repeat
Rx = Warp repeat
Ryb = Repeat of basic twill
Kx = Number of warp yarn at the point of reversed

ii. Draw the warp overlap number 1 to Kx based on the basic twill.
iii. Draw the reversed on the changing point of shift.

Example,

Construct horizontal angled twill from the base twill 3/2 Z.

i. Calculation of repeat.

Ry = Ryb = 3 + 2 = 5

Rx = 2 Kx – 2 = 2 (5) – 2 = 8

ii. Construction of warp overlap from number 1 to Kx on the base twill.

5 Point of reverse
4
Ry 3
2
1

12345
Kx

Figure 3.17 Point of reverse

iii. Construction of the reversed on the changing point of shift.

5
4
Ry 3
2
1

12345678
Rx

Figure 3.18 Angle twill from base twill 3/2

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 65

iv. Construction of weaving plan.

5X XX X5

4 XX X XX4

3X X XXX3

2X X XXX 2

1X XXX 1

12345

5
4
3
2
1

12345678
Figure 3.19 Weaving plan of vertical angled twill

The vertical angled twill occurs when the base twill run along the weft way, at the
reversed point the twill direction reverses making the base twill extended in weft direction.
In the construction of vertical angled it usually uses straight draft. The construction of vertical
angled twill is shown below.

i. Calculate the repeat

Rx = Rxb
Ry = 2 Ky – 2

Ry = Weft repeat
Rx = Warp repeat
Rxb = Repeat of basic twill
Ky = Number of weft yarn at the point of reversed

ii. Draw the warp overlap number 1 to Ky based on the basic twill.
iii. Draw the reversed on the changing point of shift.

66 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

Example,

Construct vertical angled twill from the base twill 2 1 S

12

i. Calculation of repeat,

Rx = Rxb = 2 + 1 + 1 + 2 = 6
Ry = 2 Ky – 2 = 2 (6) – 2 = 10

ii. Construction of warp overlap from number 1 to Kx on the base twill.

6
5
4
Ky 3
2
1 Reverse Point

123456
Rx

Figure 3.20 Point of reverse

iii. Construction of the reversed on the changing point of shift.

10
9
8
7

Ry 6
5
4
3
2
1
123456
Rx

Figure 3.21 Angle twill from base twill 2 1 S.
12

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 67

v. Construction of weaving plan. X XXXX 6

6X X XX XX 5
5X
4X XX XX XX4
3X
2X XX X X X3
1X
XX X X2

XX XX X1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
123456

Figure 3.22 Weaving plan of horizontal angled twill

e. Hearing bone twill
Hearing bone twill is a design like angled twill but different on the reversal direction.

The reversal point of the twill is in the middle line and it drop unconnected which unlike in
angle twill as shown in figure 3.23. It is commonly used to produce clothing such as suits, skirts
and sport coat. There are two types of hearing bone twill which are horizontal hearing bone
twill and vertical hearing bone twill.

Figure 3.23 Unconnected line on the reversal point of hearing bone twill

68 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

The construction of horizontal hearing bone twill begins with the base twill runs along
the warp way, as it reaches at the reversed point the twill direction reversed and drop the
twill line. Therefore, making it breaks the twill line where the warp floats are exchanged for
weft floats. The number of warp yarn Kx become double but the number of weft yarn still
same with the basic twill. The straight or broken draft can be used in horizontal hearing bone
twill. Below is an example to construct the horizontal hearing bone.

Example,
Construct horizontal hearing bone twill from basic 3/3 Z twill.
i. Calculation of repeat.

Ry = Ryb = 3 + 3 = 6
Rx = 2 X Kx = 2 X 6 = 12

ii. Construction of warp overlap from number 1 to Kx on the basic twill.

6
5
4

Ry 3

2
1

123456

Kx

Figure 3.24 Basic twill 3/3 Z

iii. Construction of the reversed on the changing point of shift.

6
5

Ry 4

3
2
1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Kx
Drop
point

Figure 3.25 Horizontal hearing bone twill

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 69

iv. Construction of weaving plan.

6 XX XX X

5X X X XX

4X X XXX

3X X XXX

2X X XXX

1X X XXX

123456

6
5
4
3
2
1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Figure 3.26 Weaving plan of horizontal hearing bone using broken draft.

The vertical hearing bone twill is created when the basic twill is extended in weft direction.
The calculation is same with horizontal hearing bone twill except the direction is in weft way.
The straight draft is suitable to be used in constructing the design. The step in constructing
the design is shown below.

Example,
Construct a vertical hearing bone twill from basic twill 3/2 S twill.
i. Calculation of repeat.

Rx = Rxb = 3 + 2 = 5
Ry = 2 X Ky = 2 X 5 = 10

ii. Construction of warp overlap from number 1 to Ky on the basic twill.
5
4

Ky 3
2
1
12345
Rx

Figure 3.27 Basic twill 3/2 S

70 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

iii. Construction of the reversed on the changing point of shift.

Drop 10
point 9
8
7
6
5
4

Ky 3

2
1

12345

Rx

Figure 3.28 Vertical hearing bone twill

iv. Construction of weaving plan. XX X XX 5

5X X XX XX 4
4X
3X XXX XX 3
2X
1X XXX X X2

XXX XX 1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
12345

Figure 3.29 Weaving plan of vertical hearing bone using broken draft.

f. Combined twill
Combined twill is a combination of two twill weaves being arranged alternately in

horizontal direction (warp way) or vertical direction (weft way). The result is a compact and
firm textures of woven fabric. The construction of the design either using two basic twill with
equal repeat size or different repeat size such as 4 X 4, 4 X 4 or 4 X 4, 6 X 6. In horizontal

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 71

direction, it used divided draft where the heald shaft are divided into two groups with the
first group handle the first basic twill and the second group handle the second basic twill as
shown in figure 3.30. While the vertical direction mainly used straight draft, figure 3.31.

i. Horizontal direction or warp way combined twill
Equal base of twill: Twill 2/2 Z (Number one basic twill) combined with Twill 3/1 Z (Number
two basic twill).

4 4
3 3
2 2
1 1

1234 1234
Twill 2/2 Z Twill 3/1 Z

dX X X X X
cX X X X
bX X X X
aX X X
X X X
4X X X X
3X X X
2X A C D
1X B

D
C
B
A

1a2b3c4d

Figure 3.3 Warp way combined twill

72 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

ii. Vertical direction or weft way combined twill
Unequal base of twill: Twill 3/2 Z (Number one basic twill) combined with Twill 2/1 Z (Number
two basic twill).

5 3
4 2
3 1
2
1 123
Twill 2/1 Z
12345
Twill 3/2 Z X XX X X5

5X XX X XXX4
4X
3X X XXXXX3
2X
1X XXXXX 2

9 XXXXX X1
8
7 123456789
6
5
4
3
2
1

12345

Figure 3.31 Weft way combined twill

g. Diagonal Twill
Diagonal twill is a twill that aims to gain twill line greater than 45° compare to ordinary

twill which runs in 45°. The construction is made by increasing the shift, S which will increase
the inclination of the angle twill line. In practice, the increment of the shift is made either
equal to two or three which it is like increasing two or three times the warp density. There
are two methods to construct diagonal twill which are:
i. Divide the basic twill repeat, R with the increased shift (figure 3.32).
ii. If the repeat of the basic twill cannot be divided with the increased shift, the warp

repeat, Rx equal to weft repeat, Ry (figure 3.33).

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 73

Examples,

i. Construct a diagonal twill from basic twill 3 3 1 with Sx = 2.
122

Construct:

Warp repeat, Rx = R ÷ Sx = 12 ÷ 2 = 6

(R = 3 + 1 + 3 + 2 + 1 + 2 = 12)

Weft repeat, Ry = R = 12

12
11
10

9
8
Ry 7
6
5
4
3
Sx 2
1

123456
Rx

Figure 3.32 Diagonal twill from dividing basic twill repeat.

ii. Construct a diagonal twill from basic twill 3 1 1 with Sx = 2.
121

Construct:

Rx = Ry = R = 9

(R = 3 + 1 + 1 + 2 + 1 + 1 = 9)

9

8

7

Ry 6

5

4

3

Sx 2
1

123456789

Rx

Figure 3.33 Diagonal twill with equal Ry and Rx.

74 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

h. Shaded Twill
Shaded twill is a design derived from regular twill or multiple twill to form shaded effect on
the fabric surface. The derivation will create an effect from the combination of thick twill to
thin twill or from thin twill to thick twill. Mostly used jacquard shedding system due to its
large design using straight draft. The weave design can be constructed according to the
sequence from thin to thick or thick to thin either using regular base twill or multiple twill.

i. Shaded twill using regular base twill.
The shaded twill can be designed according to the formula below:
Rx = R (R – 1)
Ry = R

Rx = R (R – 1)
Ry = R

Rx = Warp repeat
Ry = Weft repeat
R = Twill repeat

Example,
Construct a shaded twill from regular base twill 1/3 to 3/1.
Rx = R (R – 1) = 4 (4 – 1) = 12
Ry = R = 4

Therefore, the transition of shaded twill begins from 1/3, 2/2 and 3/1.

4
3

Ry 2

1
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Rx

Figure 3.34 Transition of shaded twill from twill 1/3 to 3/1.

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 75

ii. Shaded twill weave from regular multiple twill.

a. Single shaded twill
Shedding effect gradually decreases from shade to light, then gradually from light
to shade. The number of numerators from the fraction decreases while the
number of denominators increases.

For example,

6 5 4 3 2 1 ,5 4 3 2 1 ,

123456 12345

4 3 2 1 ,3 2 1 .

1234 123

Example,

Construct a shaded twill from regular multiple twill,
4321.

1234

20
19
18
17
16
15
14
13
12
11
10

9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

Figure 3.35 Transition of single shaded twill

76 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

b. Double shaded twill
Shedding effect gradually increases from light to shade and then gradually decreases
from shade to light. The number of numerators from the fraction increases then
decreases while the number of denominators decreases then increases.

For example,

1 2 3 4 4 3 2 ,1 2 3 3 2 .

4321234 32123

Example, 12332.
Construct a shaded twill from regular multiple twill 32123

22
21
20
19
18
17
16
15
14
13
12
11
10

9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

Figure 3.36 Transition of double shaded twill

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 77

3.2.3 Sateen Weave Derivatives

A simple sateen weave derivative is a design that being constructed using the original
sateen as the base. The designs variation can be made either changing the shift numbers,
enhancing the weaves’ structure or forming shaded sateen.

a. Irregular sateen or satin weave
The construction of the design is by rearranging the sequence of the shift or varying the

shift. Figure 3.37 shows several designs obtained by varying the shift during the construction
which is different from regular satin or sateen that used constant shift. More precisely, there
is no specific shift number to construct irregular satin or sateen. The variable shift in figure
3.37 sateen; (a) 1, 2, 3 (b) 2, 3, 4, 4, 3 (c) 123, 123, 123, satin; (d) 1, 2, 3 (e) 3, 4, 4, 3, 2 (f) 2, 3,
2. Straight draft is appropriate to produce this kind of weave design.

1 23 31

4 123 123 24

23 1 234 1 3 12 1 13 2 2
2 32 1 12
12 1 23 23 1 13 21
12 13
1 12 123 2 13
(f)
14 2

(a) (b) (c) (d) (e)

Figure 3.37 Irregular Sateen and Irregular Satin with variable shift.

In some designs, the rearranging sequence of the shift occurs randomly but in accordance
with the design as shown in figure 3.38. The sequence of the shift begins from the base of
regular sateen 7/3 but it is being rearrange with random shifting of Sx = 2, 5, 3, 3, 2, 3, 2.

7 Rearrange 7
6 6
5 5
4 4
3 3
2 2
1 1

1234567 1234567

Figure 3.38 Rearranging with random number of shift but with appropriate shifting.

78 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

b. Reinforced satin
The design is similar with reinforced twill where to construct it, the base weave is added

with one more overlap for each warp overlap or weft overlap. The reason to add one more
overlap is to reinforce the fabric structure making it stronger especially for cotton base fabric.

8 Adding one 8
7 more overlap 7
6 6
5 5
4 4
3 3
2 2
1 1

12345678 12345678

Figure 3.39 Adding one more overlap to reinforce the fabric structure

c. Shaded sateen
A shaded sateen is like a shaded twill whereas the target is to transit gradually sateen

with weft effect to satin with warp effect or vice versa. In constructing shaded sateen, a
formula is used to determine the warp repeat, Rx and weft repeat, Ry;

Rx = R (R – 1)
Ry = R

Rx = Warp repeat
Ry = Weft repeat
R = Twill repeat

Example 1,
Construct a shaded sateen from the transition of sateen 5/2.
Therefore,

Rx = R (R – 1)
= 5 (5 – 1)
= 20

Ry = R = 5

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 79

The transition of shaded sateen begins from sateen with weft effect gradually transit by

adding one overlap into satin with warp effect.

5
4

Ry 3

2
1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

Rx

Figure 3.40 Transition of shaded twill from weft effect to warp effect

Example 2,
Construct a shaded satin from the transition of satin 5/2.
Therefore,

Rx = R (R – 1)
= 5 (5 – 1)
= 20

Ry = R = 5

The transition of shaded satin begins from satin with warp effect gradually transit by
eliminating one overlap into sateen with weft effect.

5 20

4

Ry 3

2

1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

Rx

Figure 3.41 Transition of shaded twill from warp effect to weft effect

80 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

3.3 Fancy or Combined Weave

It is constructed on the two or more fundamental weaves and its derivatives which
produce irregular design with uneven fabric surface unusual than ordinary fabric weave. It
consists of several types of design and among of its are crepe weave, honeycomb weave,
corkscrew weave, and huckaback weave.

3.3.1 Crepe weave

Crepe weave is the construction of weave that produces pebbly or crinkle surface effect
where various method can be used. The type of crepe weave is determined on the size of the
pebbles, the arrangement on the fabric surface, type of materials and the properties. The
variety type of crepe weave produces products such as crepe chiffon, crepe georgette, crepe
marocaine and pleated crepe. Several techniques are used to increase the surface effect
either using crepe yarns, crepe weave or special finishing process. Crepe weave commonly
used in fashion and several types of decorative apparel designs. Figure 3.42 shows an example
of crepe weave fabric surface with is crinkly and rough effect.

Figure 3.42 Fabric surface of crepe weave
The technique of using crepe yarns is done by combining with highly tight twist of S
twist and Z twist and then twisted together with low twist. The twisted yarn of the crepe
fabric become snarl and shrink during wet finishing treatment process making up pebbles in

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 81

the area which have less resistance. The technique to construct crepe weave uses common
base weave and changing the arrangement without any rigid technique but the result must
not have twill line or prominent effects. However, there are four methods which are common
in constructing crepe weave which are:

i. Adding yarn overlap from sateen base.
The construction is upon sateen base weave by adding two or more overlaps at each

side of the original warp overlap. In figure 3.43, the base weave is sateen 7/4 which the crepe
effect obtained by adding above and right side of each side original warp overlap. Due to this
method and with the help of materials and finishing, the surface of the new crepe weave
becomes uneven and non-smooth.

7 Adding 2 shaded 7
6 square. 6
5 5
4 4
3 3
2 2
1 1

1234567 1234567

Figure 3.43 Crepe weave by adding 2 warp overlaps

ii. Overlap one chosen weave into sateen base weave.

The overlapping consists of one sateen base weave and another one is selected weave

with both have same number of repeats. If the repeat is not equal, use the selected weave

that have the least common multiple of the repeats of the sateen base weave. Figure 3.44

shows the sateen base weave is 7/3. Overlapping twill 2 1 upon the sateen
13

base will obtained a new crepe weave design.

82 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

Sateen 7/3 Twill 2 1
13

77

66

5 Overlap 5

44

33

22

11

123456 7 12 34567

New Crepe Weave

7
6
5
4
3
2
1

12345 67

Figure 3.44 Crepe weave by adding twill into sateen base weave.

iii. Reversing of a small motif.
The construction in this method is to choose a simple design and reverse it at intervals

within the design repeat, as shown in figure 3.45. A simple design is illustrated at A and the
crepe weave generated by reversing the simple design at regular intervals is shown at B.

New Crepe Weave

Simple

Design 8

7

6
5

4

3

2

A1

12345678
B

Figure 3.45 Crepe weave by reversing simple design.

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 83

d. Rearranging the position of warp yarn.
In this method, a chosen twill is selected as the base weave. The target is to rearrange

the position of the warp yarn in the warp repeat without changing the weft repeat. The
technique to rearrange begins by selecting a twill base weave as shown in figure 3.46 A.
Duplicate the position of the “X” mark in the lifting plan, B according to the position of shaded
square of the twill base weave. Construct the draft, C with suitable number of shafts according
to the lifting plan. Arrange the position of the warp yarn on the weave, D based on the draft
and lifting plan. A new crepe weave succeeded and there is no specific technique to be used,
depends on the designer.

Twill 3 1
22

C BA

8X X XXX 8
7X 7
6X X XXX 6
5X 5
4X X XXX 4
3X 3
2X XXX X 2
1X 1
XXX X 12345678

XXX X

XX X X

X X XX

12345678

8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1

12345678
D
Figure 3.46 Crepe weave using rearranging warp yarn technique.

84 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

3.3.2 Honeycomb weave

The weave is described as it resembles with honeycomb cells when appear in fabric
surface. It has hollows and ridges on a square pattern due to a progressively lengthening and
shortening both warp and weft floats. The surface of the fabric is rough due to the ridge and
because of the floats, it has loose structure and good absorbent property. It is widely applied
in towel, bathmats, quilts, and soft furnishings. The weave can be classified into two different
types:

a. Ordinary honeycomb.
The construction begins by constructing diagonal line such as arrowhead at the left-

hand side. Leave one-line square in vertical direction, then construct a similar one in the
opposite direction with deduction one-line square at right hand side as shown in
figure 3.47 (a). The weave repeat size is 10 X 8 which is unequal repeat size, but it can also
construct as equal repeat size. The smallest repeat size of ordinary honeycomb is 6 X 4.

In between the two arrowheads, leave a row of square as the stitching point and under
the row filled in with shaded square representing the warp float. This is the final weave design
as shown in figure 3.43 (b) while (c) indicate the pattern in a fabric surface. Figure 3.47 (d)
shows the weave plan using pointed draft with the number of shaft equal to 6.

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 85

8 8
7 7
6 6
5 5
4 4
3 3
2 2
1 1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

(a) (b)

16
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

(c)

X XXXX XXX

5 XX XXX X XX

4XX XX X X X

3X X XX X

2X X XX

1X X

12345678

8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

(d)

Figure 3.47 Ordinary honeycomb

86 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

b. Brighton honeycomb.
In the construction of Brighton honeycomb, the repeat size of the weave must

multiple of 4 for example, 12 X 12, 16 X 16, 20 X 20, etc. The first step is to construct the
weave is to make a single diagonal and then a double diagonal to cross it as shown in figure
3.48 (a). Create a suitable weave design to insert inside the cross of single and double
diagonal, (b). The length of the longest float must not exceed than N/2 – 1, where N is the
repeat size. Example in figure 3.48 has repeat size of 12 X 12, therefore the longest float of
the weave must not exceed than (12/2 – 1) 5. In Brighton honeycomb, the draft used is
straight draft and the example for the weave plan in (d) used 12 shafts.

12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

(a)

12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

(b)

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 87

2
4
2
3
2
2
2
1
2
0
1
9
1
8
1
7
1
6
1
5
1
4
1
3
1
2
1
1
1
0
9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

1234567891 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 2
012345678901234

(c)

88 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

2X X XXXXXXX X

1 X X X XXXXX X
1

1 X XX X XXX X X
0

9X XXX XX XX

8X XX X X X X

7X X XX

6X XX X

5X X XXX XX

4X XX X X X X X X

3X X X XXX X XX

2X X XXXXX X X

1X X XXXXXXX X

1234567891 1 1
012

1
2
1
1
1
0
9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

1234567891 1 1
012

(d)

Figure 3.48 Brighton honeycomb.

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 89

The ordinary honeycomb and Brighton honeycomb have similarity and difference as it is
shown in table 3.4.

Table 3.4 Comparison between Ordinary honeycomb and Brighton honeycomb.

Ordinary honeycomb Brighton honeycomb

A single diagonal crosses with single A single diagonal crosses with double
diagonal line. diagonal line.

Rough fabric surface. Rough fabric surface.

Both sides have similar appearance and Different appearance at the face and

effects. back sides of fabric.

Constructed with equal and unequal Constructed with equal and unequal

repeat size. repeat size.

Repeat size is multiple of two. Repeat size is multiple of four.

The smallest repeat size 6 X 4. The smallest repeat size is 8 X 8.

One cell in each repeat. More than one cell with different size.

Used pointed draft and broken draft. Used straight draft.

A simple construction weave design. A striking characteristic with asymmetry.

3.3.3 Corkscrew weave

It is a weave derives from either satin or twill with a look like diagonal rib when viewed
either warp or weft surface. The properties of the fabric produce are firm, compact texture
good strength, durability and warmth. Therefore, most of the fabric are to produce garments
from worsted yarn. There are two different types of corkscrew weave, which are:

a. Warp corkscrew
The warp floats dominant on the face side but upside down in back side of the fabric. It

is constructed on sateen base which have odd number of repeats such as 5/2, 7/2, 9/2, etc.
The weave is derived by adding shade square on the sateen base as shown in figure 3.49. A
formula of (R – 1) ÷ 2, R = repeat of weave, is used to determine the total number of shaded
squares to be added in the weave.

90 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

Number of shade square to be add = (R – 1) ÷ 2
= (7 – 1) ÷ 2
=3

Sateen 7/2

7 Adding three shade 7
6 square in warp 6
5 direction 5
4 4
3 3
2 2
1 1

1234567 1234567

Figure 3.49 Warp corkscrew

Other than that, it can be constructed by rearranging twill weave as the base
weave. The same condition where the repeat must be odd such in figure 3.50 of
twill 4/3 which the repeat is 7. The rearranging position of warp yarn from twill
weave base has converted it into a new weave design of corkscrew weave. The
original weave design is represented by Arabic numbers are position into a new
order of roman numbers.

7 I II III IV V VI VII
6
5
4
3
2
1

1234567

Figure 3.50 Warp corkscrew from Twill 4/3

b. Weft corkscrew
The weft corkscrew constructed by turning the position of warp corkscrew weave

diagram 90° and changing the warp overlap into weft overlap, figure 3.51 (a). The direction
of the weft overlap can be changed by changing it in reversed position as shown in figure
3.51 (b).

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 91

Warp corkscrew Weft corkscrew

7 Rotating the weave 7
6 diagram 90°. 6
5 5
4 (a) 4
39 3
20 2
1° 1

1234567 1234567

7 7
6
5 6
4
3 Changing weft 5
2
1 overlap in reverse 4

1234567 order. 3

2

1

1234567

(b)

Figure 3.51 Construction of weft corkscrew

The construction of weft corkscrew can be done by rearranging the position of twill
as described in warp corkscrew (figure 3.50). The selected twill base must have
dominant weft effect on fabric surface. An example of twill 3/4 is used as the base
weave being rearranged into a new weave design of weft corkscrew as shown in
figure 3.52.

7 VII
6 VI
5 V
4 IV
3 III
2 II
1 I

Figure 3.52 Weft corkscrew from Twill 3/4

92 PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design

3.3.4 Huckaback weave

Huckaback weave is a design that is more on the production of towels with thick and
heavy textures. It is constructed on a plain weave base combining with long floated yarns
either warp side, weft side or in both sides. The properties of the fabric are soft and moisture
absorbent because of the floating yarns, but it has a rough surface came from the plain weave
basis. The weave design is used in the making of bathroom towels, hand towels, roller towels
and glass cloths.

The construction used plain weave as the basis weave using even number on its repeat
and 10 X 10 repeat is commonly used. Basically, it is divided into four parts for each repeat
whereas two parts are for plain weave and another two parts for long float yarn with different
weave design. Due to the use of several weave designs, it is preferred to use dobby
mechanism system. Besides that, to increase the effect on the floating area, if it possible, the
long float of warp yarns should be in the same dent.

In the construction of huckaback weave, first identify the repeat size to be used. Figure
3.53 shows an example in the construction of huckaback weave using 10 X 10 repeat size
weave. Next, divide the repeat into four sections quarterly and fill two parts with plain weave
opposite each other. Select a preferable motif to fill the other two sections which in this
example, it is constructed by adding two shaded squares in the left bottom quarter and
another two shaded square in the right top quarter. Therefore, a huckaback weave with two
long floats at warp and weft side at left bottom and right top quarter while the other two
sides is a plain weave successfully produced.

10 10
9
8 Add 2 9 Right
7 shaded 8 top
6 square 7 quarter
6
5
4 5
3
2 Left 4
1 bottom 3
quarter 2
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Figure 3.53 Construction of Huckaback Weave

PSP eBook | Woven Fabric Structure and Design 93

Apart from the weave design given, there are more weave designs with different motif
can be created to fill each section. Figure 3.54 shows an actual fabric with the position of the
floats and plain weave.

Figure 3.54 The position of floats and plain weave in a huckaback weave