NationalGeographicTravellerUKApril2021

UK EDITION // APRIL 2021 // £4.95 I THE UK’S #1 TRAVEL MAGAZINE

NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/TRAVEL

DISCOVER THE WONDERS OF THE MAINLAND: UNSPOILT PENINSULAS,
ANCIENT RUINS, VIBRANT CITIES & MOUNTAINS STEEPED IN MYTH

TANZ ANIA +BAKE WELL
HONOLULU
The greatest show on Earth: QUITO
tracking the wildebeest
migration across the Serengeti W I N ! A GETAWAY FOR TWO
IN THE COTSWOLDS
VENICE

Veer off the tourist trail to
explore a city alive with
age-old crafts & traditions

ALSO: DEVON // DUNEDIN // ESSEX // ETHIOPIA // LOIRE VALLEY // REWILDING // TAIPEI // TASMANIA

Taste the passion.

This is proper food: made with skill and care, by people who love what they do,
in a beautiful place. Real food, real drink, real Wales.

gov.wales/foodanddrinkwales

This is Wales.

f FoodDrinkWales T @FoodDrinkWales Food_Drink_Wales



April
2021

Contents

100

58 Greece 88 Venice Issue 91

Explore the Hellenic heartland, Veer off the tourist trail and Campers enjoy a rocky
with its hiking routes, rich discover a city alive with ancient beach in Sithonia,
wildlife and thriving cities cra s and traditions Halkidiki, Greece
IMAGE: Getty
76 Tanzania 100 Honolulu
April 2021 5
Sweeping across the savannah, Vibrant art and eclectic cuisine
the Great Migration is one of make the Hawaiian capital as
nature’s greatest spectacles fun on land as it is on the waves

April
2021

Contents

19 46 50

SMART TRAVELLER 33 The word TRAVEL GEEKS

13 Snapshot A posthumous tome from Anthony Bourdain 112 Travel Geeks

Taking it easy in Tobago 35 Competition The experts’ travel manual

14 Big picture Win a two-night stay in the Cotswolds 120 Rewilding

Plying the waters of southern Vietnam 37 Author series A look at the conservation successes
flourishing across the country
17 Just the ticket Nadia Owusu on Ethiopia

New luxury train journeys for 2021 38 Meet the adventurers GET IN TOUCH

19 Room for one Documentarians Dereck and Beverly Joubert 128 Subscriptions

Suites for the solo traveller in Copenhagen 40 Online Make the most of our latest offer

21 Food Highlights from the website 129 Inbox

A taste of Tasmania’s natural larder INSIDER Your letters, emails and tweets

23 On the trail 42 Weekender: Bakewell 130 Your pictures

A trip through Essex’s thriving food scene From stately homes to stepping stones, a This month’s best travel photos
weekend guide to the Peak District town
25 Rooms
46 Eat: Quito DON’T MISS
Palatial new pads in the Loire Valley
Discover how the high-altitude Ecuadorian 126 Events
26 Family capital is upping its culinary ante
Dates for your diary this year
Wild ideas for your next big adventure 50 Sleep: Taipei

28 Inside guide Bold, brilliant and sometimes bonkers
— the best hotels in Taiwan’s capital
What not to miss in Dunedin, New Zealand

31 Stay at home

A coastal escape in North Devon

GO ONLINE VISIT NATIONALGEOGR APHIC.CO.UK/ TR AVEL FOR NE W TR AVEL FE ATURE S DAILY

6 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel



Contributors National Geographic Traveller (UK) APL Media

Clarissa Wei Editorial Director: Maria Pieri Editorial Manager:
Editor: Pat Riddell Jo Fletcher-Cross
Taiwan is o en overlooked as a travel Deputy Editors: Stephanie Contributing Editor:
destination, but its capital is home to a Cavagnaro, Amelia Duggan Farida Zeynalova
mix of street food, music festivals, fine Commissioning Editor: Project Editor:
dining, galleries and a burst of brilliant new Connor McGovern Mattie Lacey-Davidson
boutique hotels that make it one of East Executive Editor: Glen Mutel Sub Editor: Karen Yates
Asia’s most alluring hotspots. TAIPEI P.50 Associate Editors: Editorial Admin Assistant:
Sarah Barrell, Nicola Trup Angela Locatelli
Sarah Marshall Online Editor: Josephine Price Picture Editor: Olly Puglisi
(maternity leave) Designer: Liz Owens
Endless plains and skies packed with Assistant Online Editor: Nora Wallaya Production Controllers:
possibility make the Serengeti a dramatic Content Editor: Karl Martins, Joe Mendonca,
backdrop for one of the last true wildlife Charlotte Wigram-Evans Drew O’Neill, Lisa Poston,
migrations. The mass movement of Project Editor: Zane Henry Anthony Wright
wildebeests across Tanzania was a sight Head of Sub Editors: Hannah Doherty
— and sound — to behold. TANZANIA P.76 Sub Editors: Chris Horton, Ben Murray Head of Commercial Strategy:
Operations Manager: Chris Debbinney-Wright
Seamus McDermott APL Business Development Team:
Head of Events: Natalie Jackson Adam Fox, Cynthia Lawrence,
Art Director: Becky Redman Sinead McManus
Art Editor: Lauren Atkinson-Smith
Senior Designers: Lauren Gamp, Chief Executive: Anthony Leyens
Kelly McKenna Managing Director:
Production Manager: Daniel Gregory Matthew Jackson
Sales Director: Alex Vignali
Commercial Director: Office Manager: Hayley Rabin
Matthew Midworth Head of Finance: Ryan McShaw
Head of Partnerships: William Allen Credit Manager: Craig Chappell
Sales & Partnerships Team: Accounts Manager: Siobhan Grover
James Bendien, Bob Jalaf, Accounts Assistant:
Kevin Killen, Gabriela Milkova, Jana Abraham
Adam Phillips, Mark Salmon
Head of National Geographic
Traveller — The Collection:
Danny Pegg

Julia Buckley National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Limited,
Unit 310, Highgate Studios, 53-79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL
People either love or hate Venice, but I nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
think many just don’t understand it. It’s Editorial T: 020 7253 9906. [email protected]
easy to be overwhelmed by the crowds, but Sales/Admin T: 020 7253 9909. F: 020 7253 9907. [email protected]
if you just get off the main drag, you’ll find Subscriptions T: 01293 312 166. [email protected]
a city full of passionate locals preserving
centuries-old traditions. VENICE P.88 National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Ltd under license from National
Geographic Partners, LLC. For more information contact natgeo.com/info. Their entire
Pól Ó Conghaile contents are protected by copyright 2021 and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without
prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of the magazine,
Could Honolulu really be as easygoing but the publishers assume no responsibility in the effect arising therefrom. Readers are
and laid-back as I imagined it to be? I advised to seek professional advice before acting on any information which is contained in
arrived a sceptic and le a convert. Here’s the magazine. Neither APL Media Ltd or National Geographic Traveller magazine accept any
a city where nobody wears a tie, a Pacific liability for views expressed, pictures used or claims made by advertisers.
crossroads with heritage bubbling through
its food and culture. HONOLULU P.100 National Geographic Partners International Publishing

Sarah Barrell Chairman: Gary E. Knell Senior Vice President: Yulia P. Boyle
Editorial Director: Susan Goldberg Senior Director: Ariel Deiaco-Lohr
Visiting a Norfolk farm that’s being General Manager, NG Media: Senior Manager: Rossana Stella
regenerated as place where nature — and David Miller
tourism — reigns was a glorious boost of Headquarters
positivity mid-pandemic. It’s just one of a International Editions
blooming crop of initiatives returning our 1145 17th St. NW, Washington, DC
countryside to nature. REWILDING P.120 Editorial Director: Amy Kolczak 20036-4688, USA
Deputy Editorial Director:
8 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel Darren Smith National Geographic Partners returns
Editorial Specialist: Leigh Mitnick 27% of its proceeds to the nonprofit
Translation Manager: Beata Nas National Geographic Society to fund
work in the areas of science, exploration,
Editors: CHINA Sophie Huang; conservation and education.
CZECHIA Ondrej Formanek; FRANCE
Gabriel Joseph-Dezaize; GERMANY
Werner Siefer; HUNGARY Tamas
Vitray; INDIA Lakshmi Sankaran;
ITALY Marco Cattaneo; SOUTH
KOREA Bo-yeon Lim; LATIN AMERICA
Claudia Muzzi; NETHERLANDS Arno
Kantelberg; POLAND Agnieszka
Franus; ROMANIA Catalin Gruia;
RUSSIA Ivan Vasin; SPAIN Josan Ruiz;
TURKEY Nesibe Bat

Copyright © 2021 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All Rights Reserved. National
Geographic Traveller and the Yellow Border Design are registered trademarks of
National Geographic Society and used under license. Printed in the UK.



Editor’s Covid-19
letter
The ongoing pandemic continues
While we wait for the ongoing roll-out of the to affect travel. Please note,
Covid-19 vaccine to take effect — and the prices and travel advice are
caveats that may or may not follow — we can be subject to change. Contact your
sure that many people will have an eye on Greece as soon travel provider for the most up-
as it’s safe to do so. to-date information. For the latest
news on safe travel and border
Around 3.5 million of us visited in 2019, a slight increase restrictions, visit fco.gov.uk
on previous years, and that trend would no doubt have
continued were it not for the pandemic. But beyond the DON’T MISS
whitewashed villages and infinite blues of the islands, what
of the mainland? TR AVEL GEEKS

There are the walking trails of Mani, where goat Events
hoofprints outnumber footprints; the hills of Central
Macedonia, where figs, olives and grapes are all there for We’re bringing the magazine to life with our
the picking; and the tranquil towns of the Peloponnese, calendar of events, from tasting your way
where citrus trees scent Venetian-style town squares. around the world to getting tips and advice
from our online Travel Geeks sessions (p.126)
The Halkidiki peninsula is home to forested cliffs of such
a distinctive Hellenic turquoise-green that you couldn’t be SUBSCRIBE TODAY
anywhere but Greece. And then there are the lo y peaks of
Northern Pindos National Park, where wild horses and GET THREE ISSUES FOR JUST £5!
brown bears can be spotted around alpine lakes; the natgeotraveller.
temples and amphitheatre of Delphi; the sophistication of
Thessaloniki; and the gastronomic delights of Athens. imbmsubscriptions.com/NGT5
or call 01293 312166 and quote ‘NGT5’
So dive right into this issue’s cover story (p.58) and use it
as inspiration for your future travels. Yamas!

PAT RIDDELL, EDITOR

@patriddell
@patriddell

AWARD WINNING NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER

Travel Media Awards 2020: Consumer Writer of the Year • Visit USA Media Awards 2020: Best Consumer Travel
Magazine Feature • British Travel Awards 2019: Best Consumer Holiday Magazine • BGTW Awards 2019: Best
Travel Writer • BGTW Awards 2019: Best Europe Travel Feature • BGTW Awards 2019: Best Transport Feature
• Travel Media Awards 2019: Young Writer of the Year • Travel Media Awards 2019: Specialist Travel Writer of
the Year • AITO Travel Writer of the Year 2019 • AITO Young Travel Writer of the Year 2019 • BGTW Awards
2018: Best Travel Writer • Travel Media Awards 2018: Consumer Writer of the Year • Visit USA Media Awards
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10 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

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IN WESTERN GREECE





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SMART TRAVELLER

What’s new // Food // On the trail // Rooms // Family // Inside guide // Stay at home // The word

SNAPSHOT

Kelford, Speyside,
Tobago

The lush Caribbean island of Tobago is
blessed with rainforest and beautiful beaches
— and an infectiously laid-back vibe. On this
paradise isle, the most popular activity is
something the locals call limin’, which means
relaxing with friends or simply doing nothing.
In the sleepy village of Speyside, I met Kelford
while trying to buy some fresh coconuts
from his tiny stand. I say ‘trying’, because
he was more interested in chatting than
doing business, but when he finally fetched a
bunch of the yellow fruits, I found this scene
captured the island’s atmosphere perfectly:
relaxed, yet colourful and full of life.
ROGER BORGELID // PHOTOGRAPHER

borgelid.se
@rogerborgelid

April 2021 13

SMART TRAVELLER

BIG PICTURE

Moc Hoa, Long An
Province,Vietnam

During high-water season, water lilies thrive
in southern Vietnam. Blossoming in countless
rivers and lakes throughout late summer and
autumn, the flower is an unofficial emblem of
the region, and its stems are a prized ingredient
in the local cuisine. During this time, women
use small boats to collect the lilies, continuing
a generations-old practice taught to them
by their mothers or grandmothers. Dressed
in traditional outfits with conical hats, they
pick and wash the flowers before either selling
them at the market or taking them home to
cook. Using a drone, I captured this image
from above, gaining a different perspective
on a scene familiar to many visitors who come
to witness this beautiful, hypnotic spectacle.
KHÁNH PHAN // PHOTOGRAPHER

@ptkhanhhvnh
14 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

SMART TRAVELLER

April 2021 15

THESSALONIKI TOURISM ORGANISATION

www.thessaloniki.travel

Greece

@thessalonikitravel @thessaloniki.travel

SMART TRAVELLER

IMAGES: GOLDEN EAGLE LUXURY TRAINS; HELEN CATHCART LUXURY TRAINS One of the Venice Simplon-
Orient-Express’s stewards
JUST THE ABOVE: The Golden Eagle
TICKET Danube Express in Bosnia

From the Arctic Circle to Japan’s THE TOURS HIGHLIGHTS OF PERU & THE
Kyushu island, there’s a host of gilded
new train routes slicing across some of SLOW TRAVEL SAFARI ANDEAN EXPLORER
the world’s most stunning landscapes This new 12-day slow safari by Planet Rail’s new two-week
Ker & Downey pairs a four-day Peru tour includes three iconic
Rocky Mountaineer Rovos Rail journey with the trains: the panoramic Vistadome
The Canadian company is going off the rails with a new Zambezi Queen riverboat. Travel through Inca heartland; classic
route in the Southwest US. Setting off on a 10-week across South Africa, Zimbabwe Hiram Bingham to Cusco; and the
preview season from 15 August, the two-day Rockies to and Botswana, stopping at Belmond Andean Explorer, which
the Red Rocks will travel between Denver and Moab, Victoria Falls and in Hwange climbs into the Andes towards
Utah, with an overnight stay in Colorado’s Glenwood National Park for a game drive. Lake Titicaca. planetrail.co.uk
Springs. Beneath a glass-domed carriage, guests have ker-downeyafrica.com
reclining seats, meals featuring local Southwestern
ingredients and views across the dramatic landscape.
rockymountaineer.com

36+3
This first-class, jet-black electric train cuts a fine figure
as it sweeps across Japan’s Kyushu island. It keeps up
appearances inside, too, with classic Japanese style:
shoji screen doors, tatami mat floors and Okawa Kumiko
latticework. Five new day routes zip along the perimeter
of Japan’s southernmost island, with options that include
sweeping snapshots of the East China Sea and stopping
in Saiki City for mountain-grown black tea and local
chestnut jam. jrkyushu.co.jp/english

Venice Simplon-Orient-Express
‘Grand Tour’ is a title full of fanfare and justifiably so.
It’s the name for a series of European routes launching
from May this year, paying homage to slow travel with
purpose. Select from trips such as Venice to Amsterdam
or Florence to Paris, with new boarding points including
Rome, Florence, Geneva, Brussels and Amsterdam. Keen
to splurge? The train’s oldest carriage, built in 1926, will
have three sparkling new suites. belmond.com

Golden Eagle Luxury Trains
Toast the company’s 250th Trans-Siberian departure this
summer at a dreamy banquet on Lake Baikal’s shores.
The special journey will also include wine-tasting and
bubbly on the Europe-Asia border. Meanwhile, 2022
will usher in four new tours, two operated by steam.
These include a 22-day steam tour from Vladivostok to
Moscow across boundless stretches of steppe and a foray
into the Arctic Circle to witness its glowing night skies.
goldeneagleluxurytrains.com STEPHANIE CAVAGNARO

April 2021 17

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SMART TRAVELLER

COPENHAGEN Bedroom at The Darling
LEFT: Colourful houses
ROOM FOR ONE in Christianshavn

Ever dreamed of a hotel without the other guests? In DON’T MISS
the Danish capital, a bevy of quirky single-residency
boutiques cater to this pandemic-friendly whim A TASTE OF
ISLAND LIFE
IMAGES: GETTY; THE DARLING; MARSHALL BLECHER Suddenly, it pays to be the only guest hygge (the Danes’ obsession with all things
checking in. Copenhagen’s recent uptick cosy). 2,500 DKK (£295) a night. kajhotel.dk In a revolutionary step for
in single-suite hotels over the past decade urban planning, Copenhagen will
has never seemed more prescient than it THE FLOATING SHELTER also offers the
does now, and in line with the country’s serenity of the harbour, this time as part of introduce three public floating
reputation for envelope-pushing design, a an on-water camping experience on a rustic, islands to its waterways this summer.
string of stylish, intimate pads now offer roofed pontoon accessed only by kayak.
a truly unique stay in the city. Take THE It’s a taste of the wild in the heart of the Sail out to these buoyant specks
DARLING, which opened its doors in October metropolis: pack your camping stove and of greenery by ferry or kayak.
in the city’s historical centre and serves up sleeping bag and even enjoy a sunrise dip as
a sophisticated townhouse experience, with the city wakes up around you. From 495 DKK The Copenhagen Islands project
luxe Nordic furniture and art throughout the (£58) a night. detflydeneshelter.com aims for the ‘parkipelago’ to
apartment — plus, a pre-arrival concierge host stargazing, swimming
service to minimise human interaction. Then there’s the perfect idiosyncratic and exhibitions as an
From €950 (£832) a night. thedarling.dk hotel to complement a truly unusual time antidote to cosmopolitan life.
— why not check into the engine room of an copenhagenislands.com
Other properties have capitalised on the industrial crane? With its gorgeous views,
city’s waterfront location. Afloat in a quiet twin sun terraces and post-industrial luxury April 2021 19
nook of the Christianshavn district is KAJ design, THE KRANE is one of the standouts in
HOTEL, a hut-cum-houseboat made from the Danish capital’s one-room hotel scene.
upcycled materials with a wood-panelled And, best of all, there’s not another guest
aesthetic that epitomises the concept of in sight. From 6,000 DKK (£707) a night.
thekrane.dr AMELIA DUGGAN

THE WORLD’S SMALLEST HOTEL

The Central Hotel & Café lays claim to this unusual boast with
its chocolate-box attic room for two in the trendy Vesterbro
neighbourhood. From 2,500 DKK (£294). centralhotelcafe.dk

What drives your

EXPLORING SPIRIT?

PHOTOGRAPHY: ANINGAAQ R. CARLSEN

SMART TRAVELLER

ANALIESE WHAT NOT TO MISS
GREGORY
Southern rock lobster
is a New Zealand- is commonly fished
born chef based around Tassie, and
some of my most
in Tasmania memorable moments
have been eating
freshly boiled cray (as
they’re also known)
with white bread and
lemon on the beach

Wallaby tartare with beetroot,
radicchio and pepperberry

A TA STE OF Analiese’s must-try
ingredients
TASMANIA
ABALONE
From abalone to wallaby, Analiese Gregory champions the Known locally as muttonfish, this large,
eclectic produce of Australia’s island state grazing sea snail has a meaty texture
and white flesh. They’re plentiful in
IMAGES: ADAM GIBSON Before moving to Tasmania, chef Analiese “It might be called foraging now, but it’s the cold waters of Tasmania and most
Gregory had only ever been a holiday diver. still just collecting stuff,” says Analiese. locals grew up eating them. My current
Now she rarely goes anywhere without It’s ‘farm to table’ in the sense that farmers favourite way of cooking them is by
a wetsuit, hood, gloves and boots. Why? bring in produce that’s fresh and seasonal, steaming in the shell, slicing and frying
Because the island is beautiful and pristine, including wallaby and possum, and the in brown butter with capers, parsley
and you can dive for luxury ingredients like kitchen works with it. But, she says, the and lemon, before wrapping in a cos
abalone, wakame or sea urchin. approach is not unique to Tasmania. lettuce leaf.

Analiese has become so hooked as a diver “Goat’s milk, skirret, blackberries, celtuce PEPPERBERRIES
she says she’s renowned for “doing stupid (originally from China) and seablite are all Also known as mountain pepper,
things on [her] own”. Like driving down to available somewhere else,” she says. “Sea these are the berries of the endemic
the southernmost tip of Tasmania, diving off urchin and cray are available everywhere. So tasmannia lanceolata shrub. With a
rocks for abalone or scaling cliffs to collect are pine mushrooms… people think they’re flavour somewhere between sumac
seaweed to make seaweed jam. niche Tasmanian, but it’s really just how you and Sichuan pepper, they work equally
see things. By looking at where you are in a well in sweet and savoury dishes. The
For many years in Tasmania, people different way, these are things you might find entire plant is edible; the small twigs
learned to cook at home. Most Tasmanians in your environment.” make amazing skewers for grilling with,
had a cow or a quince tree in their backyard, adding flavour to meat and seafood.
snared possum or shot kangaroos in the This is an edited extract from Hilary
bush. Isolated from the city, without a local Burden’s introduction to How Wild Things WALLABY
supermarket and with few cafes, life would Are, by Analiese Gregory, published by Hardie Tasmania is the only state in Australia
often come down to creative self-sufficiency. Grant (RRP: £22). where it’s legal to harvest wallaby,
a delicious, environmentally friendly
meat. I enjoy it as a tartare or grilled
on skewers, but a chef friend mistook it
for lamb one day and successfully pot
roasted a loin.

April 2021 21

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5 6
34

ON THE TRAIL 3 MALDON 5 TIPTREE

ESSEX With its pretty High Street The jam that’s a staple of many
dominated by a hexagonal a hotel breakfast hails from
Take a road trip through the church spire, the quaint town of the orchard-rimmed village of
county’s culinary heartland and Maldon is well worth a pitstop. the same name, a 30-minute
discover a thriving food scene The town has been prized for drive north of Osea along quiet
Words: Kerry Walker the texture and taste of its local country B-roads. Here you’ll find
sea salt ever since the Saxons the flagship tearoom, museum
harvested the stuff by digging and jam shop. Pop in for a cream
clay pits into the briny depths tea with homemade scones and
of the River Blackwater’s salt tangy Little Scarlet strawberry
marshes. It’s now a cupboard preserve, and stock up on hard-
staple for chefs and food-lovers to-find jams from mulberry to
the world over. maldonsalt.com greengage. tiptree.com

ILLUSTRATION: MARTIN HAAKE 1 SQUARE 1 2 THE FLITCH OF BACON 4 NATIVE 6 MERSEA ISLAND

At the helm of this slick yet Just a short drive away, in the Run by self-taught chef and Head over to Mersea Island for
traditional restaurant in Great village of Little Dunmow, this wild food pioneer Ivan Tisdall- Colchester native oysters — each
Dunmow is Alex Webb: 25 years restaurant with rooms takes Downes, this restaurant sits one a plump, sweet, briny burst
young and full of culinary spark. its unusual moniker from the right on the coastline of Osea of the sea. Go for a seafood
The winner of 2020’s MasterChef: medieval Dunmow Flitch Trials. Island, out in the mudflats of platter at the West Mersea Oyster
The Professionals has devised a In a stylishly revamped 16th- east Essex, accessed either Bar, with a view of the sea and
tasting menu packing creative century, Grade I-listed pub, the by boat or Roman causeway. bobbing boats, or the tiny, first-
punches like turbot with a menu includes ‘Flitch of Bacon’ Season-driven, forage-focused come-first-served The Company
scallop and mushroom mousse, (cauliflower cream, maple-glazed flavours swing from wood pigeon Shed, where island-produced
sea herbs and pickled onions; bacon and Granny Smith apple), kebab to stone bass with celeriac sparkling white wines and
and poached chicken breast with plus crispy hen’s egg, girolle puree and nasturtium, and oyster-laced stout also feature
cauliflower textures and English mushroom, pancetta and truffle Maldon oysters with bog myrtle on the menu. thecompanyshed.co
truffle. square1restaurant.co.uk cappuccino. flitchofbacon.co.uk cream. nativerestaurant.co.uk westmerseaoysterbar.co.uk

April 2021 23

ILIMANAQ
LODGE

Beyond your imagination

A unique lodge by World of Greenland

SMART TRAVELLER

WHERE TO STAY LES SOURCES DE CHEVERNY
Two decades after opening Les Sources
LOIRE VALLEY de Caudalie among Bordeaux’s vines, the
owners extended their collection last
Revamped palaces and arty treehouses September with this reimagined estate
await in France’s bucolic chateau country south of Blois. There are 49 rooms styled
with antiques across the wooden cabins,
ALL RATES QUOTED ARE FOR ROOM ONLY, UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED LOIRE VALLEY LODGES FROM TOP: Corner King renovated farmhouses and restored chateau.
IMAGES: MICHAEL SPENGLER; JEROME MONDIERE; LOIRE VALLEY LODGES Suite at Hotel Château du From €230 (£206), B&B. sources-cheverny.com
Deep within the forest yet still close to many of the Grand-Lucé; breakfast at HOTEL CHÂTEAU DU GRAND-LUCÉ
region’s chateaux, this newly opened hotel is one of a Le Relais de Chambord; Historic grandeur meets Versailles-inspired
kind. Made up of 18 upscale treehouses and a renovated Loire Valley Lodges grounds at this summer palace. The 12 suites
farmhouse, the Loire Valley Lodges are scattered across a boast original features such as boiserie and
750-acre private forest outside Tours. culinary creations are packed into picnic
hampers or served with local wines in the
It’s a contrast to the palatial reputation of this patch new restaurant, Le Lucé. From €950 (£850)
of central France, but these stilted treehouses come B&B. chateaugrandluce.com
with a certain cachet; each exhibits the design of a LE RELAIS DE CHAMBORD
contemporary artist. French artist Jacques Bosser The restored outbuilding at the iconic
created the black-and-white Uzume lodge and several Chateau de Chambord houses cosy modern
artists came together to pay tribute to the musician Serge rooms and a classic French restaurant.
Gainsbourg in the Lucien hideaway. Rooms come with Guests can even bed down on a boat — last
king-sized beds and dining areas but — given the fact summer saw the La Toue du Relais suite
these spaces are geared towards digital detox — there’s open on a traditional Loire boat on the
no TV or wi-fi. For that you’ll have to head to the main chateau’s moat. From €206 (£185) B&B.
building, which also houses a restaurant, lounge and bar relaisdechambord.com LAUREN JADE HILL
leading out to a pool lined with sun loungers. And the art
theme doesn’t stop there — a contemporary sculpture April 2021 25
trail winds through the surrounding woods.

It’s one of a growing number of new properties in the
area that are rooted in their locale, made even clearer by
the food. Chef Hippolyte Delcher draws heavily on local
produce for the restaurant menus, including herbs and
berries grown in the aromatic courtyard, and breakfast
baskets of fresh bread, honey and locally made yoghurt
are also left at each treehouse lodge each morning.

There’s forest bathing for further immersion in
nature, and the lodges are well-placed for an insight into
the local culture: cycle to the village of Esvres, take a
vineyard tour or explore one of the region’s spectacular
chateaux. From €285 (£255) B&B. loirevalleylodges.com

SMART TRAVELLER

FA M ILY SOURCE: JAMESVILLAS.CO.UK/HOLIDAY-IDEAS/VILLA-HOLIDAYS/CHILDREN-IN-LOCKDOWN
IMAGE: AWL IMAGES
INTO
THE WILD

With big family trips off limits,
now’s the perfect time to plan your
next adventure while enjoying wild
escapes on your doorstep

You might come for the theme parks, but no family trip
to Florida is complete without a visit to the EVERGLADES
NATIONAL PARK. Take an eco-tour safari with trained
naturalists who’ll guide you through the Everglades
in search of alligators, wading birds and snakes.
paradisecoast.com

Nothing quite compares to a traditional safari
experience, however, and conservation-focused eco-tour
company Great Plains has three new offerings at Mara
Nyika Camp in KENYA: two family suites, a two-bedroom
villa located in the trees, and the Mara Jahazi Suite,
available from mid-2021. Children aged five and upwards
can also join The Young Explorers Program, where
they can learn basic survival and conservation skills.
greatplainsconservation.com

Cookson Adventures has seen a rise in demand for
‘educational travel’, particularly trips where specialist
adventure guides double as tutors. One such multi-
generational trip includes the ANTARCTIC PENINSULA,
with an adventure guide leading a separate itinerary for
the children. While parents hike along the peninsula
with climate scientists, the children set off in kayaks,
admiring the resident penguins. cooksonadventures.com

You don’t have to go as far as Antarctica, though,
with stays in JURA, in Scotland’s Inner Hebrides, also
available. Black Tomato can organise a trip to recently
opened Ardfin hotel, where families can don their
walking boots for foraging, fishing, sailing and hiking.
There’s also the chance to swot up on the local wildlife in
the company of naturalists. blacktomato.com

In June, the Wildlife Trust launches 30 Days Wild,
which aims to get young travellers excited about wild
adventures. Find a new wild way to spend each day and
help the trust raise £30m to help protect 30% of land and
sea by 2030. wildlifetrusts.org/30DaysWild MARIA PIERI

IN NUMBERS: FAMILY LIFE IN LOCKDOWN

72% 57% 54% 49% 38%

of children watched more of children played more video of families went for more of children played fewer of children voted the UK as
TV/online content in 2020 games; 48% claimed to have walks than normal as parents sports or exercised less than their top destination for a
spent less time playing outside turned to working from home
(compared to 2019) they did in 2019 2021 holiday

26 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel



SMART TRAVELLER

INSIDE GUIDE

DUNEDIN

On the eastern shores of the South Island, the New Zealand city mixes
culture with outdoor adventure — and a dash of proud local spirit

The second-biggest city on New Zealand’s South Island, restored and has a history that could rival anything from
Dunedin certainly has character. Established as a Downton Abbey. toituosm.com royaldunedinmuseum.com
Scottish settlement in 1848 a er the Maori signed the larnachcastle.co.nz
Treaty of Waitangi with the British, it’s the kind of place
where locals are just as proud of winning back the title But Dunedin’s appeal doesn’t lie solely in the city
of the world’s steepest street (from a Welsh challenger) centre. Head out to the 12-mile-long OTAGO PENINSULA,
as they are of being a UNESCO City of Literature. But it’s where you’ll find an incredible array of marine life,
also a place firmly driven by community. including both the world’s smallest and rarest penguins:
the little blue and yellow-eyed penguin, respectively. It’s
Take the old Cadbury chocolate factory — when one of also where you’ll find the only mainland breeding colony
the city’s biggest attractions (and employers) announced of the northern royal albatross in the world, which can
it was shutting down in 2018, locals rallied to create be viewed from the observatory at THE ROYAL ALBATROSS
OCHO, the OTAGO CHOCOLATE COMPANY. It sources fair CENTRE. Unbeknownst to most visitors, however, is that
trade cocoa beans grown by Pacific neighbours and uses beneath the colony is the HISTORIC FORT TAIAROA, built to
them in a handmade bean-to-bar process. ocho.co.nz protect Dunedin from the threat of Russian invasion in
the late 1800s. New Zealand fur seals and the endangered
If you’re a er even more of a taste of the region, TITI, New Zealand sea lion can also be seen on the beaches
located in the St Clair Hotel, offers five-course tasting around the peninsula. albatross.org.nz
menus featuring hyper-local produce with a view over
the water. More relaxed bites and barbecues can be found North of the city is the ambitious OROKONUI
at the PROHIBITION SMOKEHOUSE, while in the city centre, ECOSANCTUARY, a 760-acre parcel of cultivated
THE SWAN has small meals and live music in its courtyard forest where endangered and rare species have been
on weekends. VOGEL ST KITCHEN, meanwhile, serves introduced, including a breeding pair of the vulnerable
wood-fired pizzas in an industrial dining space. titi.co.nz takahe, and young southern brown kiwi, the rarest
theswan.nz prohibitionsmokehouse.co.nz vogelstkitchen.nz species of kiwi in New Zealand. There are guided walks
and tracks through the eco-sanctuary, which is open on
Dunedin is also the place to go to take in some weekends. orokonui.nz
outstanding STREET ART, with works by international
artists including Roa, Pixel Pancho and Natalia Rak. Of all the area’s natural assets, the black-and-white-
Follow the Dunedin Street Art Trail by checking out the sand beaches are a firm favourite with locals and visitors
map on the associated website. dunedinstreetart.co.nz alike. The easiest to access is ST KILDA BEACH by the
Esplanade, but TUNNEL BEACH is a bit more special,
You’ll also find art and intrigue in the city’s impressive featuring spectacular rock arches, which can be accessed
collection of museums and galleries. Standouts include by a man-made tunnel carved through the cliffs.
the TOITŪ OTAGO SETTLERS MUSEUM, complete with steam
locomotive in the foyer, and the MUSEUM OF NATURAL The coast is also a great gateway to experiencing Maori
MYSTERY, an intriguing collection of bones and bone art culture. Way out on the Peninsula at night, you can wrap
and design displayed in a private home by artist Bruce yourself in a sleeping bag with cup of hot chocolate
Mahalski. The star attraction, however, is LARNACH and learn about tatai arorangi, or Maori astrology, on
CASTLE, set in the hills outside the city. Built in the a SOUTHERN SKIES STARGAZING tour. horizontours.co.nz
1870s, the Scottish-style manor has been meticulously dunedinnz.com SHANEY HUDSON

LIKE A LOCAL KARITANE DUNEDIN BOTANIC ST CLAIR BEACH IMAGES: GETTY; SHUTTERSTOCK; ISABELLA HARREX
GARDEN
Tahu Mackenzie’s North of Dunedin, this This is one of the best
favourite outdoor spots town is where you’ll find Marvel at the beautiful surf beaches in New
the Huriawa Peninsula, a diversity of plant life, Zealand. It’s also a
Tahu Mackenzie is headline home to a once- from peaceful groves of natural wonderland,
an educator thriving Maori hillfort Californian redwoods with sea lions basking
at Orokonui known as the pa. Follow to the tropical species on the sand, cliffs of
Ecosanctuary. She’s the panels on the walk, in the heated indoor volcanic rock to climb,
also the lead singer of which recount some of the winter garden. End the bull kelp swirling in
Dunedin-based band, stories of the Kati Huirapa trip by feeding the ducks. rock pools and rare,
Tahu and the Takahes. Runaka ki Puketeraki dunedinbotanicgarden. endangered fairy
tahuandthetakahes.nz people. puketarki.nz co.nz prions soaring above.

28 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

SMART TRAVELLER

Toitū Otago Settlers Museum
CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW:

The world’s steepest street in
Dunedin; interior of Vogel St
Kitchen; Otago Peninsula

April 2021 29

Slow down into the island pace of life at The Syntopia

A top hotel offers a whole lot more than just a place to rest your head at night,
which is why The Syntopia has turned so many heads since it opened earlier
this year. Located on the north coast of Crete close to the city of Rethymno, the
adult-only property channels bohemian vibes in its decor and as such, relax-
ation is the order of the day. There are two pools ready for a leisurely dip, as
well as fresh buffets and street food-style snacks in the restaurant. After getting
your fill, you can find your zen in the wellness centre with indulgent spa treat-
ments. Come the evenings, there’s an array of events to enjoy, from live con-
certs and wine-tasting sessions, to an open-air cinema showing classic films
underneath the Cretan sky. However you decide to spend your stay here, you
won’t fail to be won over by The Syntopia’s luxurious and contemporary charm.

thesyntopiahotel.gr

SMART TRAVELLER

STAY AT HOME

NORTH DEVON

This corner of the South West might be best known
for its pounding surf, but beyond the waves there’s
a wild landscape that’s ripe for adventure

IMAGES: GETTY Why go We like DON’T MISS
Strung with picture-pretty coves pummelled Around 11 miles off the coast, the tiny island of
by Atlantic swells, it’s no wonder this stretch Lundy is a wildlife haven, home to a variety of The craggy, weather-
of coast is a surfing hotspot. But leave the species, from the puffin to the pipistrelle bat. beaten headland
beach and you’ll find a host of other outdoor Take a day trip here from Bideford or of Baggy Point,
pursuits. Running from the edge of Exmoor Ilfracombe on the island’s own supply ship, jutting into the
National Park to the Cornish border, this Area the MS Oldenburg. Boutique hotel and castle Bristol Channel
of Outstanding Natural Beauty is a magnet stays can be booked via the Landmark Trust. between Croyde and
for hikers, cyclists and families, thanks to its Tourism revenue contributes directly to vital Woolacombe. Walk
myriad landscapes, including vast sand dunes wildlife conservation efforts and the island’s the short, blustery
and windswept headlands. With a smattering volunteer scheme. landmarktrust.org.uk marked trail for
of pretty seaside villages, walking routes breathtaking views,
and campsites to boot, the area’s ideal for a Where to stay following wildflower-
relaxing weekend getaway or an activity-filled Presiding over its namesake beach, the dotted paths and
escapade. northdevon-aonb.org.uk grand Saunton Sands Hotel has been a pillar spotting birds,
of North Devon hospitality since 1933. There including stonechats
What to do are two heated pools, a thermal spa and and Dartford warblers.
This is a watersports paradise, and a two AA Rosette-awarded, glass-fronted nationaltrust.org.uk
experienced surfers make a beeline for Croyde restaurant. Sea-facing doubles in summer
Bay, with its barrelling waves. Beginners, start at £370, B&B. sauntonsands.co.uk FROM LEFT: Putsborough Sands viewed
meanwhile, should head for Westward from Woolacombe Warren; puffin with a
Ho!, Woolacombe or Saunton Sands, with Where to eat beak full of sand eels
their slower, longer waves — also ideal for Refuel with surf-inspired street food at
kiteboarders and windsurfers. Swimmers, Biffen’s Kitchen in Croyde. From Jamaican April 2021 31
meanwhile, are spoiled for choice, with jerk chicken to vegan Indonesian satay curry,
the quieter beaches at Lee Bay and Combe dishes reflect the cuisine of the world’s surfing
Martin best for those seeking solitude. Croyde hotspots. Alternatively, head to thatch-
Surf Academy has surf courses, standup roofed May Cottage Tea Rooms for a classic
paddleboarding lessons and boards for hire. Devonshire cream tea. biffenskitchen.com
surfingcroydebay.co.uk croydesurfacademy.com
NORA WALLAYA

IT’S BEEN MANY MONTHS
AT HOME DREAMING

LET’S MAKE 2021 UNFORGETTABLE.
FIND YOURSELF IN TENERIFE.

WWW.WEBTENERIFE.CO.UK | [email protected]

VISITTENERIFE VISIT_TENERIFE VISIT_TENERIFE VISITTENERIFE

THE WORD

A FINAL TRIP TO BOURDANIA

A posthumous collection of Anthony Bourdain’s best travelogues offer up
a guide to the world according to TV’s beloved bad-boy chef

IMAGE: 2016 CABLE NEWS NETWORK. A TIME WARNER COMPANY. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. One spring afternoon in 2018, Anthony Whole Hog BBQ, near Charleston: “Way out
Bourdain sat with his ‘lieutenant’ Laurie in the weeds, off the main road, and good
Woolever — assistant and co-author of freakin’ luck if you can find it, is one of the
his cookbook, Appetites — to brainstorm best barbecue joints in the US of A.” It’s this
his next project: an atlas of the world irreverence we’d have liked more of.
through his eyes. “Tony chain-smoked and
free-associated for over an hour, recalling At its best, notably in the essays from
best-loved dishes, hotels and people,” friends and family, the book provides
recounts Woolever. Those that had “stuck intimate insights. Bourdain’s brother
with him, without the aid of notes or videos, reminisces about exploring their native
throughout nearly 20 years of travelling the New Jersey and chasing up unexpected
world in the service of making television.” ancestors in Uruguay. We go behind the
Little did Woolever know this would be all scenes at the Hanoi restaurant where
she’d have to go on. Tragically, Bourdain Bourdain ate bun cha (pork and noodles)
died just a couple of months later. with Barack Obama. TV writer Bill
Buford, in Bourdain’s beloved Lyon, notes the cheffy
The resultant scattergun atlas of Bourdania centres seriousness hidden beneath his anarchic manner. There’s
around select quotes from his TV shows; Woolever’s not quite enough of this for the book to escape being
words pad out the pages. Destination entries (cities an impractical guide, but it’s still another serving of
mostly, plus a few mega-bucks remote hotels) are often Bourdain: a tour of underdog cooks and Michelin stars
dwarfed by somewhat redundant practical transport that you’d need a TV budget to follow in real life.
advice. This isn’t a book to bag on the go, and it’s hardly World Travel: An Irreverent Guide, by Anthony Bourdain
in the spirit of Bourdain, whose nods to practicality with Laurie Woolever, is published by Bloombury
are more along the lines of directions to Rodney Scott’s Publishing, £18.99. SARAH BARRELL

THREE TO TRY: BOURDAIN’S BEST

KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL: ADVENTURES IN A COOK’S TOUR: IN SEARCH OF THE NO RESERVATIONS: AROUND THE WORLD ON

THE CULINARY UNDERBELLY PERFECT MEAL AN EMPTY STOMACH

The tell-all tale of New York’s restaurant With an accompanying show on the Food A companion piece to the first three seasons
kitchen culture that propelled Bourdain into Network, this 2001 book began Bourdain’s TV of the hit Travel Channel show, this book
the role of punk-rock poster boy for a new era career. He travels the world, with a notable sees Bourdain cement his position as a
of food writing. Though he later regretted his entry on Napa Valley’s The French Laundry determined hole-in-the-wall diner, travelling
role in glorifying toxic chef culture, this was a — then the pilgrimage restaurant for food everywhere from New Jersey to New Zealand.
bestseller. (Bloomsbury Publishing, £9.99) travellers. (Bloomsbury Publishing, £12.99) (Bloomsbury Publishing, £20)

April 2021 33

UnRwienldax& fiyavalhumaldives.com

COMPETITION

WIN

A TWO-NIGHT STAY FOR TWO
IN THE COTSWOLDS

IMAGES: BURLEIGHCOURTPHOTOGRAPHY National Geographic Traveller (UK) has teamed up with FROM TOP: Exterior and grounds
Burleigh Court to offer a two-night stay for two in the of Burleigh Court; wood-panelled
Gloucestershire countryside restaurant at Burleigh Court

THE DESTINATION TO ENTER
Burleigh Court is a 200-year-old country
retreat set within a Grade II-listed manor. Answer the following question
There are 18 rooms in total, with 11 in the online at nationalgeographic.
main house and seven in the adjacent co.uk/competitions:
coach house, including two pet-friendly IN WHICH COUNTY IS
rooms. There’s a two AA rosette restaurant BURLEIGH COURT?
to enjoy and the hotel is ideal for discovering
some of the activities and attractions in the Competition closes on 30 April 2021.
area, including the National Arboretum; the The winner must be a resident of the
spa town of Cheltenham; and Woodchester UK and aged 18 or over. Full T&Cs at
Vineyard. burleighcourtcotswolds.co.uk nationalgeographic.co.uk/competitions

THE PRIZE April 2021 35
The winner and a guest will enjoy a two-
night, mid-week stay (Sunday-Thursday
nights inclusive), between September 2021
and March 2022 at Burleigh Court in a
Superior Room, on a B&B basis. They’ll also
receive a contribution of £70 towards one
three-course dinner for two in the hotel’s
restaurant, as well as afternoon tea for two to
the value of £20.



SMART TRAVELLER

NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR // NADIA OWUSU

ETHIOPIA

Moving to Addis Ababa as a child, during one of the 20th century’s worst
humanitarian disasters, proves to be a life-shaping lesson in the power of unity

ILLUSTRATION: JACQUI OAKLEY I t was the famine that brought my family Our neighbours lived in When I think of my time in Addis, I picture
to Addis Ababa in 1989, when I was eight. homes of cardboard, mud orphans rubbing their bellies, long lines
My father worked for the United Nations and rusted tin, between of people desperate to buy grain; soldiers
World Food Programme. After persistent which sewage pooled. The walking with rifles slung over their shoulders.
drought and a civil war, the toppling of the children waved to me and But I also picture my sister and I in the
authoritarian regime of Mengistu Haile I waved back. My father Hilton hotel’s pool. I remember the smell of
Mariam had split Ethiopia into two. An reminded me, time and again, eucalyptus. Emperor Menelik II imported
estimated one million people died; almost that the only thing separating trees from Australia to provide wood to build
200,000 children were orphaned. a new capital: Addis Ababa: ‘new flower’.
us from them was luck
I remember the orphans, children my age My father took me to see live Ethiopian
and younger, walking Addis’s potholed roads music. A beautiful singer in a traditional
among the donkeys carrying sacks of grain white dress led me to the stage and taught me
and the cars emblazoned with NGO logos. how to shake my shoulders in the Ethiopian
I remember, often, feeling confused and way. He took me to see flocks of flamingos
ashamed. How were they expected to survive in the Great Rift Valley and the rock-hewn
without parents to love them? churches in Lalibela. He also took me to a
shanty town to visit my adored nanny, Mulu.
My own mother left us when I was two,
returning to the United States where she was “Welcome to my Ethiopian house,” she
born and raised. We were living in Tanzania said. We sat in a circle on her cardboard floor
then. My father remarried, but between and drank Coca-Cola.
my stepmother and I there was unspoken
tension. Growing up the way I did, without Once, as we were driving through the
my mother, moving country every few years, Piazza neighbourhood, my father pointed out
I thought of my father as home. a church. “That,” he said, “is the Armenian
Orthodox church.” My mother is Armenian-
We lived in a gated community among American. Her grandparents survived
other expats, most of whom were in genocide in the Ottoman Empire and arrived
Ethiopia in response to the crisis. There in the United States as refugees. I knew little,
were armed guards at the gate. We had a big then, about her culture. In the years leading
grassy garden with rose beds, swings and a up to the genocide, many Armenians came
gooseberry patch, a treehouse with a view of to Ethiopia to escape religious persecution.
the shanty town across the street. Our one- Armenians and Ethiopians share the same
storey, three-bedroom cottage had ceiling religion. “That’s another thing connecting
fans and a generator for when the electricity you to this country,” my father said.
was cut off. Our neighbours lived in homes
of cardboard, mud and rusted tin, between We were evacuated from Ethiopia in 1991 as
which sewage pooled. The children waved the conflict swept into Addis. I went on to live
to me and I waved back. My father reminded in Kampala, London and Rome. At 18, I moved
me, time and again, that the only thing to New York for university where I built a
separating us from them was luck. career working for nonprofits addressing
issues of poverty and inequality. The time I
He was Ghanaian and particularly spent in Addis shaped my understanding of
emphasised that, as fellow Africans, the world and the forces that impact people’s
Ethiopians were our kin. We were bound lives, forces like luck, the weather and war.
together by our shared history of occupation
and oppression, but also by a vision for Aftershocks is a memoir of my hopscotched
the future in which, through unity and life. More than that, though, I aimed to do
cooperation, the entire continent, and what my father told me was my responsibility.
ultimately the world, would thrive. Poverty I wrote toward a vision for Africa, and the
and hunger would be eradicated. It was our world, in which we all understand just how
responsibility, given our good fortune, to deeply we’re bound together.
help realise that vision. That, he said, was
why he did the work he did. He hoped that, Aftershocks: Dispatches from the Frontlines of Identity
when I grew up, I’d do my part too. is published by Sceptre, RRP: £16.99

nadiaaowusu.com

April 2021 37

SMART TRAVELLER

MEET THE ADVENTURERS

DERECK & BEVERLY JOUBERT

The award-winning documentarian duo discuss conservation and how their
latest film, Jade Eyed Leopard, aims to help safeguard Africa’s big cats

Could you tell us a bit more about your Big Cats
Initiative, and why it’s important?
BEVERLY: We started it in 2009 as an emergency
intervention at a community level, much like what we’re
doing now with Project Ranger. One aim is to help locals
understand that live big cats are an investment in their
future, as is protecting the environment. We’re working
with them to practise better husbandry, too, to prevent
them losing a cow to lions or leopards. So really, the
initiative is teaching people how to live with big cats. We
now have around 150 projects in 27 countries.

What advice would you give to someone wanting
to see Africa’s big cats?
DERECK: You should definitely come. Africa needs
the dollars. Conservation does. Communities do.
We’re associated with a company called Great
Plains Conservation, where one third of the revenue
goes to conservation, one third towards growing
the conservation footprint and one third goes to
communities. For me, that’s the ideal combination.

How has Africa’s wildlife — and the conversations Where’s the best place for a responsible big READ THE FULL IMAGE: WILDLIFE FILMS / VAL JOUBERT
around conservation — changed during the cat safari? INTERVIEW
course of your careers? BEVERLY: I’d recommend Duba Plains Camp in Botswana’s ONLINE AT
BEVERLY: Africa has lost about 95% of its wildlife since the Okavango Delta, where we’ve shot a few films, including N AT I O N A L
1970s — it’s alarming. There used to be around 450,000 The Last Lions (2011). Mara Plains Camp in Kenya is GEOGRAPHIC.
lions; now numbers have fallen below 20,000. Leopards phenomenal too, and Mara Nyika Camp, our base for C O . U K / T R AV E L
have gone from 700,000 to fewer than 50,000. Cheetahs filming Jade Eyed Leopard. It’s a unique area because of
have plummeted to 7,000. Hopefully, by watching our the abundance of rainfall; there’s a lot of wildlife, and a
films — like Jade Eyed Leopard — audiences will be lot of prey that attracts the predators. Botswana’s Selinda
encouraged to help protect them. Reserve is an excellent spot as well.
DERECK: Our voices are bigger now. Go back 30 or 40 years
and we were just talking to a small circle of friends and You filmed Jade Eyed Leopard over three years.
scientists about this. But today, with the connectivity of What was your most exciting moment?
the online world, more people know what we’re doing DERECK: Using thermal imagery to see a leopard
— and more people support us. bring down a big Grant’s gazelle was thrilling. But
our main takeaway was seeing that these creatures
What’s the most pressing issue faced by Africa’s have personality. Getting up close to Toto, the little
big cats? leopard, finding her underneath the deck of the tent,
DERECK: As we approach what’s probably the apex of the and observing her interactions with her mother, Fig.
Covid-19 pandemic, a second pandemic is emerging: a Witnessing that relationship was the real highlight.
huge wave of poaching. Some people, facing destitution,
are forced to support themselves in this way. Really, the In your opinion, what’s the biggest change we all
issue is poverty. Tourism, which was a massive $50bn need to make right now to help the planet?
(£36bn) revenue stream into Africa, has suddenly gone. DERECK: We need to renew our vows with nature.
And, of course, there have been cutbacks in ranging staff.
This is why we started Project Ranger, with the help of INTERVIEW: NORA WALLAYA
National Geographic, to keep rangers in the field. Long
term, we have to work on elevating peoples’ livelihoods Dereck and Beverly Joubert are award-winning filmmakers, National
to eradicate poverty. Geographic Explorers-in-Residence and wildlife conservationists.

wildlifefilms.co greatplainsfoundation.com/ranger
nationalgeographic.org/projects/big-cats-initiative

@beverlyjoubert @dereckjoubert

38 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel



ONLINE

WHAT’S ONLINE

HOW TRAVELLERS CAN HELP
SAVE BRAZIL’S SLOTHS

A deadly industry has emerged in Brazil based around the capture and exhibition of wild
sloths. Here’s how travellers can help. Interview: Charlotte Wigram-Evans

Wildlife charity World Animal Protection HOW ARE SLOTHS IMPACTED? have to do what it tells them. So the problem
estimates that thousands of sloths are Sloths are popular because they always look starts at the top — that’s where my job starts
snatched from the wild every year. Many like they’re smiling. This means there’s even too, trying to establish relationships with
visitors who pay to cuddle the creatures in more pressure from the industry to make sure corporate leaders and encouraging them to
captivity will be unaware of the deadly impact they’re there, waiting for tourists. During our change their policies.
this practice has. World Animal Protection’s investigations, we learnt from the indigenous
João Almeida discusses the need to outlaw people that sloths react especially badly to WHAT CAN TRAVELLERS DO?
tourism experiences based around the human interaction, and they o en die only six There are so many incredible experiences in
capture and exhibition of Amazonian wildlife. months a er being taken from the wild. In the Brazil; there’s really no need to hug a sloth. We
jungle, they can live for up to 20 years. have the world’s largest tropical rainforest,
WHAT’S YOUR MISSION? the savannah, the Pantanal biome. When
To ensure wildlife stays in the wild, where HOW ARE YOU TACKLING THE ISSUE? booking a trip to see wildlife, you have the
it belongs. A false image has been created It’s not just the animals that are being responsibility as a consumer to drive the
by the tourism industry that the Amazon is exploited, but indigenous Amazon demand for positive, ethical experiences, and
the place to get close to animals. To give the communities, too. They’re paid a small there are so many out there. Head to World
tourists what they want, the solution has been amount by big businesses to take the animals Animal Protection’s website for a list.
to put these animals in cages for hands-on and deliver them to tourists, and they have no READ MORE ONLINE NOW AT
experiences and photo opportunities. alternative; the market is so powerful, they NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/TRAVEL

TOP
STORIES

Here’s what you’ve EDITORS’ PICKS ON THE TRAIL MEET THE ADVENTURER
been enjoying on the
website this month Snacks from around East London’s public art Jenny Bruso
the world Explore the capital’s art on foot, The US-based founder of Unlikely
From Portugal’s pastéis de nata to from vibrant murals to large-scale Hikers tells the story behind the
installations inclusive community
India’s Parsi eggs

40 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

ONLINE

THE BEST FOOD PODCASTS FOR BEYOND THE
LOVERS OF WORLD CUISINE TR AVEL SECTION

Sate your appetite for global dining vicariously as you listen to chefs, writers and | ADVENTURE |
comedians discuss all things gastronomic. Words: Alicia Miller
Nepali mountaineers achieve
Whether you’re after inspiration for a Saturday Created by journalists Cynthia Graber and historic winter first on K2
dinner or just simple escapism, these food- Nicola Twilley, Gastropod picks apart the With their ‘impossible’ summiting
focused series provide the culinary thrills science and history behind popular foods. of the world’s second-tallest
without the need to leave home. While most episodes have a US focus, many mountain, Nepali climbers
1. GRILLING: TV chef Simon Rimmer spends investigations, on topics as diverse as saffron send national pride surging in
an hour chatting, cooking — and, in one and Mexican mole, skip across continents. the Himalayas
regular segment, barbecuing — with food 4. TAKE A BAO: A deep dive into Asian food
stars, including Nadiya Hussain, Tom and culture, from heirloom rice in Borneo to | SCIENCE |
Kerridge and Ainsley Harriott. Chefs also the Chinese salted egg. Food writer host Yi
reveal how they got into the food industry, Jun Loh has released just 10 episodes so far, Why some Covid-19 variants are
while offering up cookery tips along the way. recorded in his native Malaysia, but already more contagious than others
2. POINT OF ORIGIN: US multimedia producer he’s covered tea-tasting, Instagram-famous — and how we can stop them
Stephen Satterfield examines global culinary dalgona coffee and the ‘king of fruits’, durian. A cluster of viral mutations seems
practices, highlighting the too-often- 5. OFF MENU: In this full-of-laughs series from to be speeding the spread of
overlooked contributions of women and comedians Ed Gamble and James Acaster, Covid-19 — and scientists are
people of colour. One week, you’re in Mexico, celebrities, chefs and comedians outline racing to understand why
hearing about the worldwide hass avocado their dream meals. You’re bound to pick up
boom, the next in the Palestinian territories, some great restaurant recommendations | HISTORY |
learning about the local revival of arak. along the way, for the likes of London, How New Orleans’ historic
3. GASTROPOD: Why are carrots orange? Sydney and Los Angeles. architecture is uniquely suited
Why do some people hate coriander? to pandemic living
READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE NOW Porches, courtyards, and ‘neutral
grounds’ are key to upholding
IMAGES: GETTY; KATHY BAHR; PHOTOGRAPH PUBLISHED WITH PERMISSION the city’s sociability in a time of
OF NIRMAL PURJA; PETER MATTHEWS; JENNY BRUSO; 4CORNERS social distancing

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April 2021 41

WEEKENDER

BAKEWELL

Base yourself in the Peak District town for a weekend
of country estates, industrial heritage and

rambles through a green and pleasant land alive
with creative spirit. Words: David Whitley

T he traditional image of the Peak District — rolling hills and
country pubs, curious sheep and dry stone walls — turns out
to be a gross oversimplification. A weekend clambering over
stiles and sipping pints of bitter is both feasible and enjoyable, but
linger a while longer in this swathe of central England, and a whole
new side reveals itself.

The historic market town of Bakewell serves as the ideal base for
exploring the area: here, charmed visitors feed ducks by the river,
mooch between farm shops and coo at handsome stone buildings.
But the town’s chocolate-box appeal belies its industriousness; in
converted mills and surrounding villages, brewers, woodcarvers,
jam-makers and jewellers are busy giving the area some serious
cultural clout. Sleepy rural idyll this is not.

Days in this part of the country can swing from pottery to
puddings, or from deer-spotting to dark history. The boots will still
get muddy, but you probably won’t have time to scrape the dirt off.

42 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

Chatsworth House and estate, TOP 5
overlooking the River Derwent
LEFT: The Peacock Inn and hotel, Family-friendly
walks
Bakewell town centre
PADLEY GORGE
DAY ONE OPULENCE & INDULGENCE Next to Grindleford Station,
eight miles north of Bakewell,
IMAGES: ALAMY MORNING AFTERNOON EVENING lies Padley Gorge, a jumble
of ferns and mossy rocks.
If in doubt in these parts, the Duke Monsal Head, offering one of the Thornbridge Brewery, which Trails are kept as natural
of Devonshire probably owns it. Peak District’s best views, lies four was producing craft beer long as possible — it’s more a
The sprawling Chatsworth Estate miles west of Chatsworth. Several before it was cool, sits on the site case of finding the gaps in
Farm Shop in the village of Pilsley walking routes slug their way up to of a former mill on the edge of the woods than following a
sells all the best goodies made by it. Alternatively, just rock up at the Bakewell. Street food vendors pop path — and the rock pools in
farmers, brewers and bakers on the car park, take a photo of Monsal up on Wednesdays and Saturdays, Burbage Brook are perfect
Duke’s land. The range and quality Dale and the Headstone Viaduct, but the real treat is tasting obscure for paddling in.
are tremendous, and the Duchess’ then maybe have an al fresco pint members of the Thornbridge
favourite — a lime marmalade with at Monsal Head Hotel’s Stable Bar. range. The Jaipur IPA is still the LONGSHAW ESTATE
pineapple — is the essential buy. standard-bearer and the pineapply The 1.7-mile walking route
It’s three miles back to Jamestown New England IPA around this National Trust
The centrepiece of the estate, Bakewell, where an afternoon is great. More experimental estate skirts the upper end
Chatsworth House, is one of mooch is in order. The Bakewell offerings include the Florida of Padley Gorge. Children
Britain’s great stately homes. Cheese Shop, on Market Street, Weisse raspberry sour and Cocoa love the stepping stones, but
The lavish wood panelling, sells novelty varieties like mustard Wonderland chocolate porter. Longshaw is mostly all about
tapestries and paintings and the and ale, and whisky and ginger, the giant fallen trees, left in
showboating fountains dotting and the Peak District National Wobble merrily back into place for little hands and feet
lawns sculpted by Capability Park Visitor Centre doubles town for local produce given to gleefully scramble over.
Brown are as expected, but the as a gallery, selling local crafts French treatment at longstanding
periodic injection of modern art alongside the walking maps. institution Piedaniel’s. The HIGGER TOR
adds a welcome twist. Damien Obligatory, however, is The Old restaurant offers a mix of formal A stack of giant rocks
Hirst’s visceral Saint Bartholomew, Original Bakewell Pudding Shop, white tablecloths and atmospheric dominates Higger Tor, the
Exquisite Pain was a fixture in the which lays on the take-it-with- wooden beams, with the star best of several lookouts
chapel for several years, while a-pinch-of-salt history as thick being the £28 Derbyshire beef along the Ringinglow Road
works by artist Lucian Freud and as the eggy mixture on top of the fillet topped with asparagus, between Hathersage and
sculptor David Nash can be found dessert’s jam layer. Devour with wrapped in ham and served with Sheffield. Stroll through the
in the main building. custard, as tradition demands. Burgundy sauce. adjacent sheep-grazed fields,
then let the kids clamber
over hundreds of strangely
smooth grey gritstone
boulders. The views out over
the Hope Valley are epic.

STANAGE EDGE
Popular with rock climbers,
this gritstone escarpment
marks the boundary of the
brooding moorland of the
Dark Peak escarpment and
the grass-covered limestone
plateau of White Peak. It’s
a six-mile circular walk from
Hathersage. Alternatively,
park at the Hollin Bank Car
Park and huff and puff half a
mile to the top.

CHATSWORTH ESTATE
A three-mile loop from
Calton Lees Car Park takes
in a ruined mill, the pretty
village of Edensor and views
of Chatsworth House. Save
the stretch along the River
Derwent for last — deer
often hang out there.

April 2021 43

WEEKENDER

TOP 3 DAY TWO EXERCISE & EDUCATION

Peak pub stays MORNING AFTERNOON EVENING IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY

THE PEACOCK Running parallel to the River Wye Seven miles north of Bakewell, the There’s a possibility you might
AT BARLOW along the former Midland Railway village of Eyam would be regarded want to cleanse yourself
Just outside the National line, the Monsal Trail stretches for as idyllic were it not for its grimly after Eyam, and that’s where
Park boundaries, The 8.5 miles through Monsal Dale. heroic past. As many a child in the Hathersage Swimming Pool comes
Peacock’s key selling point is Being largely flat, it’s no challenge Midlands who went on a school in. Five miles north of Eyam, the
that it brews its own beers. for walkers, but for cyclists it’s trip will know, this was the village outdoor facility comes with views
But the food’s good, too nigh-on perfect. Bikes can be hired that sealed itself off in self- of dramatic Stanage Edge and the
— the pies are a speciality for £12 for two hours from Hassop sacrifice in 1665 during the Great surrounding hills. The pool is 30
— and the Thursday night Station, just outside Bakewell. Plague. Eyam Museum tells the full metres long and heated year-
quiz is highly entertaining. story. Concisely brutal detail can round to 28C, but pre-booking
It has eight boutique Highlights along the route also be found on plaques outside is strongly advised as it gets
bedrooms to choose from, include four well-lit former the Plague Cottages on Church very busy at the first glimpse of a
with four set in a converted railway tunnels, the Headstone Avenue, where death first struck. little sun.
barn. From £90, B&B. Viaduct and Cressbrook and
thepeacockatbarlow.co.uk Litton Mills, hulking monsters Eyam Parish Church has more Post-dip, amble through
that played a pivotal role in the information on the victims’ Hathersage, stopping for drinks
THE DEVONSHIRE ARMS Industrial Revolution. bravery, plus stained-glass and dinner at any of several rather
AT PILSLEY windows depicting the morbid loveable pubs. The Scotsman’s
Built from gorgeous Hassop Station Cafe is the tale. Mompesson’s Well, a thigh- Pack Country Inn serves up
honeyed stone, this is one top spot for breakfast at the burning, 25-minute uphill slog hearty, gastropub-style food
of several Chatsworth- start of the trail or lunch at the from the church, meanwhile, was alongside hand-pulled ales.
owned pubs. Estate produce end. There’s a wealth of outdoor where neighbouring villagers left If the weather’s up to it, eat
sprinkles the menu, but the seating, and tandoori chicken provisions for Eyam’s stricken outside on the patio next to
rousing views of valley and kebabs and vegan falafel burritos self-isolation pioneers. the trout-filled stream.
escarpment seal the deal. are menu highlights.
Prices range from £125, B&B,
for the smaller doubles,
but the £205 four-poster
farmhouse rooms deliver the
romance factor in spaces.
devonshirehotels.co.uk

THE PEACOCK,
BAKEWELL
A higgledy-piggledy,
200-year-old former coaching
inn with bags of character,
the Peacock is slap-bang
in the centre of Bakewell.
Beers come from local
breweries, traditional British
pub meals are chalked on
the blackboards and the
surprisingly contemporary
rooms are at complete odds
with the building they’re set
in. Doubles from £89, B&B.
peacockbakewell.com

FROM LEFT: View from
Monsal Head, taking in
the Headstone Viaduct
and Monsal Dale; Hassop
Station Cafe

44 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

WEEKENDER

FIVE TO VISIT: DERBYSHIRE DESIGNERS WELL DRESSED

Bakewell’s corner of the Peak District is idyllic yet industrious. You’ll see signs for all kinds of makers, A longstanding
from stained-glass artists to stonemasons. Many are appointment-only but some are open to all local tradition
sees villagers
EYAM HALL runs jewellery-making classes have a tiny fly hidden somewhere adorn wells with
Former farm buildings at this for anyone wanting to try the DIY within each composition, should floral art and
historic manor are now the setting approach. rockpapersilver.co.uk anyone wish to set themselves other natural
for Eyam Courtyard, home to the challenge of spotting them. materials, in
a host of businesses, including BASLOW POTTERY richardwhittlestone.co.uk what’s known as
restaurants, cafes and a yoga The stoneware plates and vases ‘well dressing’.
studio. It’s here Ralph Weston on display at Baslow Pottery are DAVID MELLOR DESIGN Each village has
creates bespoke jewellery, with mainly the work of Ray Gridley, On the southern outskirts of one weekend of
Blue John, a semi-precious who often uses clay dug from his Hathersage a striking, circular the year where
mineral extracted from the own back garden. But works from building occupies a space where the dressing is
Blue John Cavern at nearby a loose collective of potters, who a gas holder once stood. It’s now unveiled and
Castleton, often used to dazzling fire and glaze using the facilities a factory that makes equally blessed, followed
effect. Ralph beavers away in his at the back of the handsome ivy- impressive cutlery, tableware and by a festival.
workshop at the side of the shop, covered building, are also proudly other kitchen essentials. There’s For details of
with visitors able to peer in and on display. baslowpottery.co.uk an adjoining shop, gallery and related events
watch him in action. eyamhall.net mini museum. Today, Corin Mellor throughout
RICHARD WHITTLESTONE is the creative force behind the the year, visit
ROCK PAPER SILVER On the Chatsworth Estate in company, but it was his father, welldressing.com
There’s a similar set-up at Pilsley, wildlife artist Richard David, who blazed a trail here. His
Caudwell’s Mill in Rowsley. Here, Whittlestone huddles in his tiny work extended far beyond the MORE INFO
silversmith Rebecca Green uses studio, painting nature-packed dinner table. In the 1950s and ’60s, Chatsworth. chatsworth.org
5,000-year-old wax-moulding Peak District scenes. His first love the Sheffield-born designer helped Monsal Head Hotel & Stable
techniques to make jewellery are birds, though, and the acrylic to transform Britain’s streetscapes Bar. monsalhead.com
and mini animal sculptures. Peak paintings of owls, oystercatchers, with his lighting columns, The Old Original Bakewell
District hares have become a pheasants and kingfishers are the bus shelters and postboxes. Pudding Shop.
signature motif, and Rebecca stars of his gallery. All the works davidmellordesign.com bakewellpuddingshop.co.uk
Thornbridge Brewery.
thornbridgebrewery.co.uk
Piedaniel’s.
piedaniels-restaurant.com
Eyam Museum.
eyam-museum.org.uk
Eyam Parish Church.
eyamchurch.org
Hathersage Swimming Pool.
hathersageswimmingpool.
co.uk
The Scotsman’s Pack
Country Inn.
scotsmanspackcountryinn.
co.uk
peakdistrict.gov.uk

HOW TO DO IT
Hathersage is on the
Sheffield-to-Manchester
train line; local buses
serve Bakewell from
Chesterfield and Sheffield.
derbysbus.info

April 2021 45

E AT

QUITO

Emerging from the shadow of its gastronomic neighbours, Ecuador shines as
an exciting hub for South American cuisine, with a new generation of chefs

rediscovering the country’s incredible produce. Words: Jamie Lafferty

While Quito is a superlative spot cool of Fermento. Is any of this for them? CLOCKWISE FROM IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; BICUBIK; JAMIE LAFFERTY
for an education in Ecuador’s Santiago seems to know what I’m going to ABOVE: Calle La Ronda,
blossoming culinary scene, I ask next. Old Town; roof terrace,
hadn’t expected to find myself actually Casa Gangotena; ceviche
spending the day at school. “For many “Look, I don’t want to be part of the at Casa Gangotena;
years, this was a kindergarten,” says gentrification here,” he says. “I want to be cocktail at Somos
Santiago Rosero, one of the pioneers behind part of this neighbourhood. In the future,
Fermento. Part-cooking cooperative, part- hopefully we’ll have food festivals to involve
bar, the project hosts a rotating lineup of more of the local businesses. For now,
chefs in the old classrooms, with tables and everything is promoted boca a boca — by
chairs arranged in the former playground. word of mouth only.”

Located in the not-so-trendy La Vicentina Fermento would be a remarkable project
neighbourhood, at the front of the space in any city at any time, but it seems truly
there’s a small organic market, which extraordinary in Quito — especially
leads through to the old school. I order when Santiago tells me it was launched
an Ecuadorian IPA while we talk, with an immediately after the city’s initial lockdown
artisanal blue cheese burger on the way. ended in response to the Covid-19 pandemic.
A short walk away, in the Plaza José Navarro, He’d never have chosen it this way, but the
30 or so people are queuing up for street virus and the business are now inseparable.
food: tripa mishqui (barbecued tripe) and
deep-fried empanadas. The scene stands “I don’t want to get too carried away
in sharp contrast to the cutting-edge or overstate it, but what we did was kind
of heroic,” he says. “To stand and fight
in the middle of this crazy moment.”

46 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

April 2021 47

EAT

Five food finds I take a bite of the burger and don’t disagree in one form or another for centuries and its
for a second. “We were born while a lot of kitchen has long been at the highest end of
BOLÓN DE VERDE people were dying.” Quiteño cuisine. While it isn’t priced with
Originally from the coast but locals in mind, the head chef insists the
now popular nationwide, these The tentacles of the disease still spread menus reflected the nation. “Our cuisine is
balls of mashed plantain and through Quito, but it was impossible to like that, a mix of the traditions of the people
cheese make for a hearty and ignore just how much the city is thriving. from all over Ecuador as well as our ancestors.
comparatively healthy breakfast There are trendy cafes charging as much for a One of the dishes on the menu is locro de
flat white as other places are for an almuerzo, papas, a soup made with three types of potato
by local standards. the popular three-course set-menu lunches and local spices.”
found across this corner of the continent.
TRIPA MISHQUI The value of putting Ecuador’s astonishing Rudimentary though it may be, locro
Yes, they could be described as larder to the fore has also been recognised is ever-present at this formal, French-
flame-seared cow guts, but tripa — up here, high in the Andes, the capital has influenced restaurant, but also at some of the
made a real effort to resist Americanisation plastic-chair, cheek-by-jowl joints in other
mishqui is undeniably a local compared to its coastal rival Guayaquil. neighbourhoods around Quito.
speciality, especially in Quito’s La
Even at the top end of the capital’s “Every six months, we search the country
Vicentina neighbourhood. dining scene, there’s been a move towards again and try to find new things from
something more indigenous — drawing on Ecuador,” continues the chef. “Go back 10
LOCRO DE PAPAS a mind-boggling array of local ingredients or 15 years, all the fine-dining cuisine here
A Quiteño staple, the locro de that includes recently rediscovered varieties in Quito was French or Italian. Those are
papas comes in many guises, but of ancient grains, myriad endemic root veg, lovely, of course, but there were no good-
should always contain plenty of maize and fruits for which we’d struggle to quality local options. Now I think there’s a
potato and be served piping hot, find English names, not to mention Ecuador’s generation trying to make very good food
often topped with native avocado. prized quinoa and avocados. based on the recipes of our grandmothers.”

CEVICHE “We’re a fairly small country with a lot Leading this rustic renaissance are such
Quito may not be on the coast, of diversity — from the Galápagos to the organisations as Quito’s Canopy Bridge, a
but Ecuadorians from any part mountains here and the coast and, of course, nonprofit network that connects indigenous
a lot of seafood. We also have the Amazon,” farmers with food suppliers, who in turn
of the country will insist that explains chef Emilio Dalmau inside Casa provide many of the ingredients found in
their citrus-seasoned fish is as Gangotena. The grand hotel has been here Quito’s high-end restaurants. Over in the La
good as anything you’ll find in

Chile or Peru.

LLAPINGACHOS
These fried potato cakes are
something like stuffed fritters,
often filled with cheese and
served with peanut sauce. Don’t
ask about the calorie content.

FROM LEFT: Ecuadorian bolón de verde;
overhead view of cafe tables inside a
courtyard in the Old Town; selection of
dishes at La Guaguasería by Somos

48 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel