NationalGeographicTravellerUKApril2021

PARTNER CONTENT FOR SHIKOKU TOURISM

IMAGES: GETTY Where is it? Matsuyama Castle FESTIVALS
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Ritsurin OF SHIKOKU
Of the four main islands of Japan, Shikoku Garden, Takamatsu; udon noodles;
in the southwest is the smallest: snuggled in rafting on the Yoshino River Awa Odori,
a bay between its two big brothers, Honshu Tokushima
and Kyushu. While it can feel quieter and Prefecture
more remote than much of the mainland, the One of Japan’s biggest
cities of Osaka and Hiroshima are just two dance festivals, this
hours away. is part of a Buddhist
tradition intended
What’s it known for? to honour departed
ancestors where
Shikoku encapsulates Japan in miniature: thousands of kimono-
it’s home to a windswept Pacific coastline clad people take part in
and cloud-shrouded summits as well as local choreographed dance
delicacies such as udon noodles and fragrant routines through the
sake. That said, Shikoku is best known as a streets of Tokushima.
holy island — in the ninth century, Buddhist 12-15 August.
monk Kobo Daishi (or Kukai) undertook shikoku-tourism.com
a pilgrimage around the island’s shores,
walking 870 miles and visiting 88 temples. Niihama Taiko
One millennium on, pilgrims still follow Matsuri, Ehime
in his footsteps. But really, anyone can find Prefecture
their own kind of salvation on Shikoku — be Held to celebrate the
it in spirited modern towns like Matsuyama autumn harvest, this
and Takamatsu or in wild landscapes such 800-year-old festival
as the Iya Valley, a swathe of forested gorges centres on vast and
where samurai fled to escape their enemies. lavishly decorated
floats containing
Who should go? similarly mighty taiko
drums. The festival
Shikoku suits all sorts of visitors. doubles up as a show
Adventurous souls are well catered for: of strength, with men
surfers make for the beaches of the southern competing to see who
coast, trekkers ascend the holy peak of can lift their drum aloft
Ishizuchi-san (6,503ft) and kayakers most gracefully. October.
tackle the churning rapids of the Oboke visitehimejapan.com
and Koboke gorges. Comparatively few
travellers head to Shikoku, which makes it Yosakoi Festival,
a fine place for anyone wanting to immerse Kochi Prefecture
themselves into rural Japanese life — from Another dance festival,
the chime of temple bells to the steaming Yosakoi sees 20,000
waters of a seaside onsen. people strut their stuff
in different venues and
What are the main draws? neighbourhoods in the
city of Kochi. Teams
You’ll need a few months to visit all 88 from around the world
temples — otherwise, aim for the first five compete and anyone
on a day trip from Tokushima. Look out is welcome to join an
for white-robed pilgrims stocking up on open team. August.
supplies at the first temple — Ryozen-ji visitkochijapan.com
— from where it’s about a six-mile walk to
temple number five, Jizo-ji. The volcanic Essentials
cape of Muroto Misaki is where Kukai
sought enlightenment in a coastal cave Getting there: Japan Airlines,
— these days it’s equally famous for those British Airways and ANA offer
seeking marine mammals, with whale- direct flights from the UK to
watching excursions running offshore. Tokyo. A Japan Rail Pass serves
Alternatively, make for Shikoku’s biggest Shikoku’s Tokushima Station.
city, Matsuyama, home to a 19th-century japanrailpass.net
bathhouse and a wonderfully ornate castle.
To find out more, visit shikoku-tourism.com/en
When should people visit?

Spring and autumn are the best times to
visit Japan, the former for hanami (enjoying
the cherry blossom), and the latter for
momijigari (admiring the leaves). Winter
heralds skiing on Ishizuchi-san, while
sweltering summers see cooler breezes
gusting along the coast.

CITY LIFE IMAGE: HAWAII TOURISM AUTHORITY (HTA) / BEN ONO

HONOLULU

ZZZ

Hawaii’s capital city is as much Pacific idyll as it is
cosmopolitan cool, offering indie shops, fusion food and
sunset hulas under banyan trees. Dive in for a microcosm of
the islands’ warm aloha spirit. WORDS: Pól Ó Conghaile

100 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

“ W hen a Hawaiian says ‘aloha’, you must
respond with energy,” says the guitarist
leading a hula group on Kuhio Beach.
It’s a word imbued with love, compassion and respect
— a catch-all for laid-back island life. It also captures
the spirit of Honolulu: a city of shave ice and tropical print
shirts, of shady lanais (verandahs), fragrant leis (garlands)
and buff beach boys surfing as sunshine smacks off cool,
blue water. The skies are bright year-round and the ocean
infuses everything, from fresh poke bowls to stories of
early voyagers arriving by canoe.

Aloha doesn’t preclude a sense of momentum, however
— as evidenced by Honolulu’s lively fusion food scene
and the murals of its de facto arts district, Kaka‘ako.
The area once defined by warehouses and vacant lots is
now home to SALT at Our Kaka‘ako, a trendy mixed-use
market and retail space, and is the heart of the annual
POW! WOW! Hawaii festival. “POW! means the punch
of art,” explains Jeff Gress, a local artist and the festival’s
operations director. “WOW! is the reaction.”

Honolulu is huge by Hawaiian standards, but a mere
speck compared to other US cities. Its coastal setting
on the island of Oahu, dramatised by a cinematic
ring of mountains, feels at once like a remote outpost
and a bustling Pacific crossroads. It’s a city of traffic
snarls and growing pains, but also a place where
surfboards lean against office walls and everyone
wears slippahs (flip-flops).

Concrete and glass blocks sprout from a downtown
dotted with banyan trees, but walking around here,
you’ll also encounter Iolani Palace (the only royal
palace on US soil) and Chinatown — a mash-up of
grit and gentrification, where you can visit the city’s
best galleries, eat its most fashionable food and hear
the visceral clunk of cleavers chopping pork belly in
old-school markets. If Hawaii is the convergence of
Polynesian, Asian and American cultures, Honolulu
is its most thrilling expression.

April 2021 101

HONOLULU

SEE & DO BISHOP MUSEUM: Hawaii’s state museum is murals radiating out from Lana Lane (artists
the place to get your cultural and historical include Shepard Fairey and Kevin Lyons)
SURF’S UP IN WAIKIKI: It would be rude bearings. A planetarium shows the stars before hitting the stores and restaurants
not to surf in Waikiki. Make your way to that guided epic Pacific canoe voyages, of SALT at Our Kaka‘ako. The city’s POW!
the beach in the morning before the wind while a large hall explores creation stories, WOW! Hawaii festival, a week-long series
and crowds pick up, then take a lesson the wao (realms) of Hawaiian life and of art events, takes place every February.
with one of the local beach boys or rent historical chapters such as the grisly fate powwowworldwide.com
a $20 (£15) long board for a better chance of Captain Cook. Small treasures like tiny HULA AT KUHIO BEACH: It could be cheesy,
at balancing. Beginners should head for pearl shell hooks make big impressions, too. but it isn’t. Held under an old banyan tree
‘Canoes’, the easiest break within swimming bishopmuseum.org at sunset, this hour-long cultural session
distance. If you manage to stand up, you’ll HIKE DIAMOND HEAD: Oahu is threaded uses Hawaiian music and dance to educate
catch a sparkling view of the condo- with great hiking trails. If you try only visitors and keep island traditions alive. It’s
crammed skyline. one, make it this short, spectacular path, a genuine and gentle fix of Aloha, with the
CHILL IN CHINATOWN: This is where Second zigzagging its way from the heart of an twirling hula dancers and their surprisingly
World War sailors were inked with the motto extinct volcano crater just south of Waikiki. subtle feet and hand movements the
‘stewed, screwed and tattooed’; plantation-era Follow the 0.8-mile hike from the trailhead star turns. kbhulashow.wixsite.com/official
immigrants made new starts; and Sailor Jerry to the summit, passing old military tunnels SKIP THE CITY: Oahu is a relatively small
set up shop. Today’s Chinatown is a sausage and bunkers, to reach views that stretch as far island, but it boasts some big day trip
grinder of a city quarter, squeezing out a as the islands of Lanai and Maui. Afterwards, options. Don’t come this far without
fascinating mix of history and the here-and- treat yourself to an acai bowl at Da Cove planning a day at Pearl Harbor (book
now. Stroll through Oahu Market, browse in nearby Monsarrat. dlnr.hawaii.gov ahead, especially to see the USS Arizona
garlands chilling in fridges at Cindy’s Lei & STREET SMARTS AT KAKA’AKO: This old Memorial) or a snorkelling and sailing
Flower Shoppe, wander the galleries, drink at warehouse district is a rapidly changing trip on the Leeward Coast to spot wild
one of the many dive bars and get your ‘grinds’ neighbourhood buzzing with street art, spinner dolphins and green sea turtles
(eats) at a cutting-edge restaurant like Senia, independent shops and an art deco with Wild Side Specialty Tours. nps.gov/valr
a collaboration between chefs Chris Kajioka atmosphere. Mosey around the 100 or so pearlharborhistoricsites.org sailhawaii.com
and Anthony Rush. restaurantsenia.com

102 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

IMAGES: HAWAII TOURISM AUTHORITY (HTA) / VINCENT LIM; MEAGAN SUZUKI BUY HONOLULU
SALT AT OUR KAKA‘AKO: This rebooted
city block is devoted to innovative local April 2021 103
culture, food and shopping. Swing by Urban
Island Society for surfboards, swimwear and
travel cosmetics, and Treehouse for analogue
photography merchandise and art books.
saltatkakaako.com
NEWT AT THE ROYAL: Located at The Royal
Hawaiian Resort, this store has supplied
hand-woven Montecristi hats and retro-print
shirts to customers from Thomas Wolfe to
Eddie Vedder. newtattheroyal.com
TIN CAN MAILMAN: For vintage Hawaiiana,
look no further. This is the place for Elvis
posters, koa wood carvings, painted ukuleles
and dashboard hula dolls. Be warned: no
photos allowed. tincanmailman.net
ALA MOANA CENTER: An outdoor mall
mixing international brands with Hawaiian
goodies. Look out for Malie Organics’ beauty
products, sweet treats from the Honolulu
Cookie Company and flip-flops from
Island Slipper. alamoanacenter.com

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Waikiki Beach, with Diamond
Head in the background; artist Gavin Murai paints a
mural for POW! WOW! Hawaii 2018; Chris Kajioka and
Anthony Rush, chefs and co-owners of Senia, shop for
produce; a take on poke at Senia
PREVIOUS PAGE: Walking in Ala Moana Regional Park

A string of luck // The
ukulele, now commonly
associated with Hawaii, was
introduced to the islands by
Portuguese immigrants in the
late 19th century. Pearl Jam’s
Eddie Vedder, who recorded
the solo album Ukulele Songs,
first chanced on one of the
instruments on a beer run to a
Hawaiian convenience store.

HONOLULU

EAT ZZZ SLEEP
THE SURFJACK: A cool counterpoint
HIGHWAY INN: Fuel up at this chatty
comfort food joint at SALT at Our Kaka‘ako. to Waikiki’s towering condos, The Surfjack
Smoked Kalua pig, lau lau parcels (pork or
fish wrapped in taro leaves), lomi salmon mixes retro swim club with hip touches like
(tomato and salmon salad) and fermented
poi (mashed taro and water, and very much poolside DJs, Pilates classes, graphic prints
an acquired taste) are served with a dollop
of nostalgia. myhighwayinn.com and free entry to the Honolulu Museum of

THE PIG & THE LADY: Old and new Art. Grab one of its free bikes for the three- IMAGES: LAURA LA MONACA; OLIVIER KONING; MEAGAN SUZUKI
Chinatown crash together in this Vietnamese
fusion joint on North King Street. Try a spiced block skip to the beach. surfjack.com
beef or vegetable pho bowl, washed down
with a chanh muoi (salty lemonade). Book in THE ROYAL HAWAIIAN RESORT: A Honolulu
advance for dinner. thepigandthelady.com
icon: Marilyn Monroe and Joe DiMaggio
SUSHI SHO: Omakase-style meals
are the order of the day at this 16-seater visited on their honeymoon, and the sixth
at The Ritz-Carlton Residences, Waikiki
Beach, where chef Keiji Nakazawa and season premiere of Mad Men was filmed here.
his team serve up $300 (£220) tasting
meals. The evolving menu is elaborate: Behind the Spanish-Moorish architecture of
courses range from Kona abalone to
bonito with Hawaiian mustard and Waikiki’s ‘Pink Palace’, you’ll find a mix of
Maui onions. ritzcarlton.com
old-school glamour, great mai tais, high-end

shopping and direct access to Hawaii’s best-

known beach. royal-hawaiian.com FROM LEFT: Breakfast
of papaya, toast and
THE KAHALA HOTEL & RESORT: coffee at The Surfjack;
a barista at The Surfjack;
Previous guests have included US presidents, public surfboard racks,
Waikiki. Locals wait years
Sinatra, Clooney and Princess Diana. for the opportunity to
store their boards by
Think barefoot luxury rather than bling, the famous waves

with mid-century modern architecture,

sea-glass chandeliers and soothing

bedroom tones. kahalaresort.com

104 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

HONOLULU

April 2021 105

HONOLULU

ESSENTIALS

Bishop Museum Kauai Maui
Oahu Hawaii
Chinatown
Hotel Street Honolulu
Iolani Palace HAWAII

PACIFIC
OCEAN

K A K A'A K O

HONOLULU

WA IKIKIKALAKAUA AVENUE

KUHIO BEACH DIAMOND HEAD
Mamala Bay

1 Mile

PACIFIC OCEAN

A flight of craft beers at Getting there & around
Waikiki Brewing Company
Several airlines, including United
LIKE A LOCAL AFTER HOURS and Delta, fly to Honolulu via various IMAGE: HAWAII TOURISM AUTHORITY (HTA) / BEN ONO. ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER
mainland US hubs. united.com
FIRST FRIDAYS: On the first Friday CHINATOWN: Hit up Hotel Street at delta.com
of every month, Chinatown’s arts and food least once. Smith’s Union Bar is the island’s Average flight time: 17h30m.
communities gather around a common oldest operating bar; The Dragon Upstairs is Express shuttles run from the
theme, with bars, galleries, street artists, an ex-tattoo parlour doing cocktails, folk and airport to resorts in Honolulu and
lei stands, rooftop spaces and more jazz; and Bar 35 has a beer garden and pupus Waikiki, from around $17 (£12.50)
throwing events. Hotel Street also hosts (snacks) including deep-fried bread pudding. each way. robertshawaii.com
a block party from 8pm to midnight. thedragonupstairs.com bar35hawaii.com speedishuttle.com
chinatownnow.com WAIKIKI: Kalakaua Avenue is Honolulu’s Hop on the Waikiki Trolley to
FLIP-FLOPS: Slippahs (flip-flops) are your main drag, filled with throngs of tourists, downtown Honolulu or Diamond
new best friend in Hawaii, where everyone shopping malls and ritzy resorts. Order Head crater. One-, four- and
has casual day-to-day pairs, as well as fancy a drink at The Royal Hawaiian Resort’s seven-day passes are available from
versions for going out. They also make a oceanfront Mai Tai Bar; sample local beers $45 (£33). Honolulu has a local bus
handy accessory for swatting flies. at the Waikiki Brewing Company; and head service, known simply as ‘The Bus’.
ART WORLD ESCAPE: This app and website to Michael Mina’s Stripsteak for choice cuts waikikitrolley.com thebus.org
aims to connect local artists of all genres and craft cocktails. royal-hawaiian.com Cabs are plentiful, and you won’t
with people looking to create, share, waikikibrewing.com michaelmina.net have to wait more than a few
collaborate or simply learn about Honolulu’s KAKA’AKO: Visit Honolulu Beerworks for minutes for an Uber or Lyft.
creative scene. Sessions range from studio draught options including Pia Mahi ‘Ai, Rent a car if you want to explore
visits to back street tours, turntable skills brewed with orange, lemon, lime and honey. Oahu. Downtown and Waikiki are
and breakdancing, and start from $30 (£22). For cocktails, try industrial-chic Bevy. walkable, and there’s also the Biki
artworldescape.com honolulubeerworks.com bevyhawaii.com bike rental scheme. gobiki.org

When to go

Avoid peak holiday seasons
(Christmas, July to August and early
spring), if possible. Instead, travel
between April and June or
September and December. The
weather is warm year-round, with
temperatures typically in the high
20Cs. Showers are more likely
between December and April,
when big-wave surfing also kicks in.

More info

Hawaii Tourism. gohawaii.com/uk
Honolulu magazine.
honolulumagazine.com

How to do it

TRAILFINDERS has flights from
London to Honolulu via Los Angeles
with Delta, plus four nights at The
Surfjack and three nights at
The Royal Hawaiian Resort, from
£2,112 per person. trailfinders.com

106 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

PARTNER CONTENT FOR BLUNDSTONE

WALK LIKE A TASMANIAN

At the world’s edge is the small island of Tasmania where wilderness rules — think Tassie devils,
gnarled Huon pines whispering 2,000-year-old tales and the planet’s cleanest air buffeting in on
Roaring Forties winds. Here are three walking trails to get you started in this natural playground

Dove Lake Lap well-manicured lawns. Those with a
penchant for the past can take a four-
In the heart of the Tasmanian mile return walk to Duck Reach, one
Wilderness World Heritage Area sits of the world’s first hydroelectric power
Cradle Mountain in all its crag , stations or hop on the old-school 1970s
majestic glory. For a four-mile loop chairlift. It’s said to be the world’s
beneath Cradle, take the Dove Lake longest single-span chairlift.
Circuit. This relatively flat track Walk it wearing: The Classic Blunnies
dips into the Forest Ballroom with with comfort footbed — they’re perfect
its rainforest scents and skirts out for urban terrain.
to lofty outcrops. You’ll understand
why Gustav Weindorfer stood on the Three Falls Circuit
mountain in 1910 and proclaimed,
“This must be a national park for the Mount Field National Park is one of
people for all time.” Cradle Mountain- Tassie’s oldest parks. Located about 40
Lake St Clair National Park can morph miles north west of Hobart, it’s a great
into a snowy wonderland at times, so be day trip option. The glaciated landscape
sure to layer up. is home to platypus, pounding
Walk it wearing: The Original #500s. waterfalls, ancient pandani plants and
These lightweight leather boots are giant swamp gums, named because
ideal for comfort that lasts all day. they’re the world’s tallest flowering
plant. The Three Falls Circuit takes in
The Gorge, Launceston these mighty giants as well as Russell,
Horseshoe and Lady Barron Falls
The Gorge is Launceston’s natural across a four-mile undulating circuit.
sanctuary. Step inside and you’re Walk it wearing: The waterproof
enveloped in a pocket of wilderness Thermal series — the perfect boot
where locals have swum, walked and for a shot beneath Russell Falls,
picnicked for generations. A network which featured on Australia’s first
of trails weave through the reserve, postage stamp.
passing rock climbing walls and

IMAGE: MITCH OSBORNE

To find out more, visit blundstone.co.uk

PARTNER CONTENT FOR GANGWON PROVINCE

THE RUGGED SPLENDOUR OF

GANGWON

SOUTH KOREA’S NATURAL GEM IS
WAITING TO BE DISCOVERED

PARTNER CONTENT FOR GANGWON PROVINCE

With craggy mountains, ancient temples, an unspoiled
coastline and a chance to gaze across the most fortified border

on the planet, Gangwon Province promises to tantalise the
senses while simultaneously soothing the soul

IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY Dominated by the rocky rise of the Taebaek Hit the slopes
Mountains, Gangwon is South Korea’s
largest and most remote province. This From the capital Seoul, head to the town
sparsely populated region is subject to of Pyeongchang, where you can check out
harsh winters and has traditionally been the Olympic Village and then ski the local
a tough place to scratch out a living. The slopes like a downhill champion. Snow
people, however, are known for their or no snow, the surrounding Odaesan
resilience and generosity, and the region National Park begs exploration, so strap on
they call home features some of the your boots, climb its namesake mountain
peninsula’s most pristine natural wonders. (5,128ft) and then bask in the tranquil
environs of Woljeongsa Temple, the
Top reasons to visit headquarters of the Jogye Order of Korean
Buddhism. After that, it’s time to head off
Once considered South Korea’s least- the coast, where the town of Gangneung
accessible corner, Gangwon has recently awaits. Graze at the food stalls of its
seen tourism blossom. This is largely due to traditional market before walking it off
the construction of speedy transportation with a stroll around Hwajinpo Lake. There
links for the 2018 Pyeongchang Winter you can take in the former villas of the first
Olympic Games. The once-lengthy trip leaders of both North and South Korea: Kim
from Seoul can now be done in under two Il-sung’s castle at Hwajinpo and Syngman
hours, making it easy for visitors to soak up Rhee’s vacation cottage, which is now a little
the region’s myriad charms. Whether it’s museum called Hwajinpo Memorial Hall.
outdoor thrills, hot springs, buzzing street Later, wind down on the expansive sands of
markets, beachside cafes or the serenity of Gyeongpo Beach — one of Korea’s surfing
its many Buddhist temples, Gangwon offers hotspots — where you can paddle out on a
up a smorgasbord of experiences, including board to catch a wave, take a cleansing dip
a glimpse into the DMZ, one of the last or just watch the tide roll in from your table
vestiges of the Cold War. at one of the funky little cafes.

For more information go to eng.gwd.go.kr/gw/eng

PARTNER CONTENT FOR GANGWON PROVINCE

FROM LEFT: Korean spicy soba with
buckwheat noodles; Bronze Jwabul
Buddha statue, Seoraksan National
Park; autumn foli age on Nami Island
PREVIOUS PAGES FROM LEFT: Sunset
over Ulsanbawi in Seoraksan National
Park; traditional temple in Sokcho

DID YOU Head out into nature A cuisine to savour
KNOW?
Accessible from the seaside town of Sokcho, Given the harsh climate and mountainous
Every year, Gangwon Seoraksan is South Korea’s third-highest terrain, Gangwon isn’t particularly well
holds the Pyeongchang mountain and arguably its most scenic. A suited for rice cultivation. Buckwheat,
Peace Forum, promoting spider’s web of hiking paths crisscrosses instead, is king. This hearty grain is used
reconciliation between the national park it calls home, featuring as a staple throughout the region and finds
North and South Korea. the Silla-era temples Sinheungsa and its way into countless dishes, including
This poignant event is Baekdamsa, Geumganggul Cave, Biryong both hot and cold buckwheat noodles
held at the Pyeongchang and Yukdam waterfalls, Daecheongbong (memil guksu/naengmyeon), buckwheat
Olympic Stadium, where, Peak (5,603ft), as well as the iconic dumplings (memil mandu) and buckwheat
in the Winter Olympic 2018 Ulsanbawi, a gargantuan rise of granite pancakes (memil jeon). Gangwon also
opening ceremony, the two slabs also known as ‘dinosaur ridge’. stretches down much of the east coast
countries marched under There are treks for hikers of all levels, of South Korea, however, and here it’s
one flag — a historic gesture ranging from a short jaunt of a couple of seafood that reigns supreme. Sashimi joints
of unity. In fact, the 2024 hours right up to a couple of days. Those line the harbours of every town, along
Winter Youth Olympics will who prefer leaving the trekking poles at with restaurants specialising in grilled
also be held here to further home can instead ride a cable-car up to shellfish, crab and braised assorted seafood
bolster peace efforts. Gwongeumseong, a medieval fortress that (haemul jjim) containing the freshest local
main.ppf.or.kr/en/ affords a spectacular view of the stony ingredients. Older, traditional dishes also
surroundings. And if your time on the enjoy widespread popularity, including
mountain has got you feeling sore and potato dumpling soup (gamja ongshimi) and
creaky, make sure to relax with a soak at Chodang sundubu, a local tofu made with
Osaek Carbonated Hot Springs, one of two seawater that’s renowned for its creamy
inside the park. texture and rich, savoury flavour.

PARTNER CONTENT FOR GANGWON PROVINCE

Where north meets south From hotels to homestays Essentials

From 1950 to 1953, North and South Korea Gangwon has space in abundance, meaning Getting there and around: From
fought a devastating war that ended in a escaping the crowds has never been Seoul’s Incheon Airport, take a
stalemate. No peace treaty was ever signed, easier. For those wishing to get close to high-speed train to Pyeongchang.
and the Demilitarized Zone, or DMZ, stands the province’s splendid nature, there are a To travel around the region, it’s
as a stark reminder to that bloody conflict. multitude of camping options available, as best to hire a car.
This patch of no-man’s land bisects the well as some more upscale glamping sites,
whole of the Korean peninsula, acting as a a trend that’s really caught on in recent When to go: Autumn is peak
buffer between the two nations. Its eastern years. Visitors can also choose from a wide season in Gangwon, with
terminus abuts the sea north of Sokcho and array of accommodation options, there’s spectacular fall foliage. For a
can be viewed from the Goseong Unification everything from boutique and luxury hotels quieter experience, consider
Observatory, a viewing platform overlooking and resorts in Pyeongchang, Gangneum visiting in spring, when the
a lonely expanse of beach stretching all and Sokcho to countryside pensions in weather is good but the crowds
the way to the fortified border. On a clear more rural areas. These traditional Korean are smaller. Winter brings snow,
day, you can make out the fence line in the guesthouses have character in abundance, making for great skiing.
distance, as well as mountains in North and are great places to stay in order to
Korea such at Mount Kumgang. Equally really get under the skin of Gangwon, For the latest travel restrictions
illuminating is the accompanying DMZ as well as to meet other travellers. Plus, and requirements, visit gov.uk
Museum, which provides a vivid history of you can be certain that every pension
IMAGES: GETTY this sad expanse of floodlights, watchtowers will come complete with a barbecue grill,
and razor wire. No trip to Gangwon is a South Korean must-have. Elsewhere,
complete without a visit to this outpost of the colourful, brightly-lit motels found
living history, reminding us that peace in throughout the province are also a good
Korea can’t be taken for granted. option, and are surprisingly affordable.

For more information go to eng.gwd.go.kr/gw/eng

TR AVEL GEEKS

ASK THE EXPERTS

NEED ADVICE FOR YOUR NEXT TRIP? ARE YOU AFTER RECOMMENDATIONS,
TIPS AND GUIDANCE? THE TRAVEL GEEKS HAVE THE ANSWERS…

Q // Where should I go With many 2020 trips postponed, Wales, Kent, Sussex and Scotland eight people are 75% sold out, and IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; JAIME PULIDO
for a quiet coastal and domestic breaks set to be for a coastal holiday a little off larger properties (10+) are close
self-catering break in the hot ticket while international the beaten track,” says Matt. to booked out for peak season,
the UK this summer? travel remains uncertain, you’d “Properties sleeping six or more too. “Though not on the coast, the
be advised to book as soon as are booking quickly, although Peak District is still showing some
FROM LEFT: possible for seaside staycations we’re seeing strong demand good summer availability, as are
Blackpool Sands, near this summer. If you want to bag a across most properties from the Cumbria and Wales.”
Dartmouth, Devon; beautiful beachy spot away from end of May onwards.”
Gliffaes Country House the crowds, the key is to avoid the The operator suggests a stay
Hotel, Brecon Beacons usual destinations. Matt suggests Ayrshire for a in Pembrokeshire, at Atlantic
stay at Coalhill Farm Byre (sleeps View, near Broad Haven Beach
“Devon and Cornwall and the four), with views towards the in the Pembrokeshire Coast
Isle of Wight are often people’s Isle of Arran, within easy reach National Park. These three plush,
first thought for a coastal break, of sandy beaches. A week’s glass-fronted holiday cottages,
but the British Isles has many stay arriving 6 August costs and one penthouse apartment,
lovely spots in other coastal £381 per person (£1,523 total). have panoramic sea views, all
regions,” says Matt Brayley holidaycottages.co.uk within walking distance of the
of holidaycottages.co.uk. The coastal path and Broad Haven’s
company has almost 3,000 “Many people who were due restaurants. Each has en suite
coastal properties on its books to travel in 2020 have deferred bathrooms, fully equipped
across the UK. For May half to this year,” says Beth Bailey, kitchens and patios with
term, around a quarter are still of Premier Cottages. “And our barbecues. Sandpiper cottage
available; while just under a third bookings are up 53% on the first (sleeps four) costs £1,430 for a
are available over the summer three weeks of last year. The result seven night stay in June; £2,200 in
holidays. “We’d recommend is very limited availability for peak August. premiercottages.co.uk
areas such as North and West summer.” The operator reports
that properties sleeping four- SARAH BARRELL

112 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

Q // Is it safe With the exception of a brief circumstances haven’t improved Q // What happens if I
to book a period last summer, when travel by the time you’re due to set off. can’t travel before my
trip overseas was allowed to a few destinations airline voucher
this year? in Europe, the Foreign Office ABTA recommends the expires?
(FCDO) has advised against all best way to do this is to book
but essential travel for more a package holiday. Due to the Flight vouchers, given as an
than a year. Understandably, pandemic, many tour operators alternative to a cash refund for
many of us are desperate to get have radically altered booking a cancelled flight, usually valid
away and when travel restarts, conditions, allowing a great deal for a year, have been frequently
bookings will go through the roof. of flexibility to amend for a later issued by airlines during the
However, when this will happen date. And if the FCDO is advising pandemic. Some airlines, such as
remains uncertain, so should against travel to a destination, Ryanair, allow you to exchange
you risk booking now? Currently ABTA Members will also give you vouchers for cash. In practice,
prices are low and availability is the option of a full refund. So, many passengers have found this
good, so it makes sense to book. book now with confidence and, a difficult process. British Airways
It’ll also give you something to with a little bit of good luck, you’ll and EasyJet do not exchange
look forward to. However, you be the envy of all your friends as vouchers for cash refunds, but
need to protect yourself in case you head off on your dream trip the former has extended the
later this year. SEAN TIPTON validity of all vouchers to 2023
and the latter has said it will also
Q // I’m If it’s coastal rambles you’re a er, As well as its own arboretum, offer an extension. Less well-
considering a try The Lugger, in the unspoilt the hotel also offers plenty of advertised is that these airlines
UK walking Cornish hamlet of Portloe. The game fishing along the River Usk let you transfer the voucher
holiday this whitewashed inn, dating to for a full immersion in the Welsh to someone else. That’s useful
summer. Are the 17th century, has 24 subtly countryside. Doubles from £212, if health prevents you from
there any nautical-inspired rooms, as well B&B. gliffaeshotel.com travelling, or if the route you want
hotels you’d as private cottages to hire. It’s at doesn’t return to service.
recommend? the heart of the Roseland Heritage In the Lake District, Gilpin Hotel
Coast, meaning bracing walks and & Lake House’s HRiSHi restaurant Some passengers who
wild, windswept vistas at every retained its Michelin star this year felt forced into vouchers for
turn. Take the 15-mile hike along thanks to its innovative modern cancelled flights or received one
the South West Coast Path to the British-meets-Asian cuisine. even though they requested a
Lost Gardens of Heligan, making Rooms are classic contemporary refund have appealed through
pitstops and Porthluney Beach in style, and there are Scandi- alternate dispute resolution
and the pretty seaside village of inspired spa treatment rooms, too, bodies (ADR; most airlines
Mevagissey. Doubles from £166 though the local hikes are as much are signed up to one) and won
B&B. luggerhotel.co.uk of a draw as the hotel — be sure their money back. For a list of
to tick off the fairly gentle ascent the airlines signed up to ADR
Meanwhile, in Wales, the of Orrest Head, where the views schemes, visit caa.co.uk
elegant Gliffaes Country House of Windermere inspired a young
Hotel is cradled in the rich Alfred Wainwright. Bowness-on- As a rule, with cancelled flights
green landscapes of the Brecon Windermere, with its shops and it’s better to ask for a cash refund
Beacons, and is perfectly placed watersports, is also just a short rather than a voucher, because
for tackling the Black Mountains, ramble away. Doubles from £195 if it expires or the airline goes
including the much-climbed B&B. thegilpin.co.uk bust, you probably won’t get your
peaks of Skirrid and Pen Y Fan. CONNOR MCGOVERN money back. RORY BOLAND

THE EXPERTS

SARAH BARRELL //
ASSOCIATE EDITOR,
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
TRAVELLER UK

SEAN TIPTON // ASSOCIATION
OF BRITISH TRAVEL AGENTS,
ABTA.COM

CONNOR MCGOVERN //
COMMISSIONING EDITOR,
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
TRAVELLER UK

RORY BOLAND // EDITOR,
WHICH? TRAVEL,
WHICH.CO.UK/TRAVEL

April 2021 113

TRAVEL GEEKS

THE INFO

GROUNDS FOR CELEBRATION

THE UK’S FIRST NATIONAL PARKS WERE ESTABLISHED SEVENTY YEARS AGO. THEY’RE NOW MORE
POPULAR THAN EVER, WELCOMING RECORD NUMBERS OF VISITORS IN 2020. WE TAKE AN INFOGRAPHIC
TOUR THROUGH OUR NATURAL NATIONAL TREASURES. WORDS: SARAH BARRELL

IN NUMBERS The UK is home to 15 national parks, each
designated as a protected landscape for its
1,386 miles special qualities, and all offering traffic-free

The total length of routes terrain for hiking, biking and exploring
marked as suitable for those
15 The UK’s national parks
with access challenges are home to 5,556 ancient
1 Cairngorms 1
100 million 2 Northumberland monuments, including
3 North York Moors 15 castles, Bronze Age burial sites
The number of visitors the 4 Yorkshire Dales 2 and a section of Hadrian’s Wall
country’s national parks 5 Peak District
6 Broads 14 3 SOS
receive each year 7 South Downs 13 4
8 New Forest DEVELOPMENT, CLIMATE
8,972 sq miles 9 Dartmoor 5 CHANGE, CONGESTION…
10 Exmoor LEARN ABOUT THREATS
The total land area of the 11 Brecon Beacons TO OUR NATIONAL PARKS
UK’s national parks 12 Pembrokeshire Coast — AND WHAT YOU CAN DO
13 Snowdonia TO HELP — AT CNP.ORG.UK
Volunteers — the lifeblood 14 Lake District
of national parks — help to 15 Loch Lomond AND SCNP.ORG.UK
lead guided walks, fix fences,
plant trees, maintain historic & the Trossachs Voices from
the Peak
sites and survey wildlife As yet, there are no national
parks in Northern Ireland
6

12 11 7

10
8

9

SIX OF THE UK’S 10 national parks feature Poet-artist Mark Gwynne
NATIONAL PARKS on the Royal Mail’s Jones has created a series
ARE DESIGNATED 2021 Special Stamps, of audio artworks to mark
INTERNATIONAL DARK celebrating the 70th the 70th birthday of the
anniversary of the first Peak District National Park,
SKY RESERVES, INCLUDING parks being founded
EXMOOR AND THE the UK’s oldest
BRECON BEACONS

Timeline 1930s 1949 1951 2000 2011

1900s Leisure enthusiasts An Act of Parliament The Peak District, The National Parks The 630sq-mile
and conservationists provides the Lake District, (Scotland) Act is South Downs
Urbanisation put the case for framework for the Dartmoor and passed, leading to National Park, the
increases, as national parks to first national parks Snowdonia national the designation of country’s youngest,
does demand for the UK government to be created parks are established two new parks is added to the list
public access to
the countryside

SOURCES: NATIONALPARKS.UK; CNP.ORG.UK; DARKSKY.ORG; STATISTA.COM

114 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

HOT TOPIC I READ MORE ON THIS TOPIC AT NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/TRAVEL

WILL VACCINATION PASSPORTS GET

US TRAVELLING SAFELY AGAIN?

THE WTO HAS CALLED FOR COVID-19 VACCINATION PASSPORTS TO BECOME STANDARD ESSENTIAL TRAVEL
DOCUMENTS. WILL THIS SIGNAL A RETURN TO INTERNATIONAL TOURISM? WORDS: SARAH BARRELL

IMAGES: GETTY In the same week that the UK of the world’s population. medical information mandatory. VACCINATIONS
closed all travel corridors and In short: no one is safe until Yet with the yellow fever & TRAVEL IN
upped its quarantine ante for everyone is safe. Speaking to vaccination an established entry NUMBERS
arrivals, the United Nations World nationalgeographic.com, Dr Jewel requirement in several countries,
Tourism Organization (UNWTO) Mullen, of the University of Texas, a precedent has been set. OVER-50S
called for the implementation of said: “Being overly or prematurely UK tour operators have
harmonised testing protocols and confident about the vaccines’ European support reported a surge in travel
vaccine passports. The proposal effectiveness can put people in European Commission President bookings and enquiries
could see the creation of an other countries at risk. Travel Ursula von der Leyen has backed from over-50s, the age
international standardised digital gives us a chance to contribute to a common vaccination certificate group in line to receive
certification system for Covid-19 their economies. But contributing in the EU, to be issued by Member Covid-19 vaccinations by
vaccinations. Speaking at the to the spread of the disease States to everyone who gets
Global Tourism Crisis Committee undermines that.” vaccinated against Covid-19. spring 2021
in Madrid on 18 January, secretary In Iceland and Hungary, an
general Zurab Pololikashvili Test & vaccinate ‘immunity passport’ is already a 10%
said, “The rollout of vaccines With only a small percentage of requirement of entry. The proportion of
is a step in the right direction, the world population vaccinated people in 70 developing
but the restart of tourism can’t so far, should travel be permitted Consumer impact countries who are likely
wait. Vaccines must be part of a for those who have proof of Travel insurance firms say to receive the jab in 2021
wider, coordinated approach that a negative Covid-19 test? “A that if the EU makes Covid-19
includes certificates and passes blanket vaccination requirement vaccination a mandatory entry 90%
for safe cross-border travel.” would simply discriminate requirement, they’ll update their Recent news about more
against non-vulnerable groups, policies accordingly. Some travel transmissible strains of
UK concerns such as generations X and Z companies have already made Covid-19 suggests that
The UK government is still and millennials, who should vaccines compulsory, including
considering vaccine passports, be able to travel with proof Saga, which requires its cruise herd immunity might
citing concerns over the varying of a negative Covid-19 test,” passengers to have had both only come when 90% of
levels of protection against says WTTC president and CEO doses of the vaccine at least 14 citizens have antibodies
the virus offered by different Gloria Guevara. Opponents days before departure. Qantas
vaccines, noting the question still to vaccination passports have also now requires passengers For the latest travel
remains on how long immunity flagged the human rights and to be vaccinated before flying. restrictions and
lasts after immunisation, and data protection issues related to Tourist attractions, hotels and requirements, visit gov.uk
whether vaccinated people can making the disclosure of personal restaurants could well follow suit.
still spread the virus. Various
newspapers, however, have
reported that the government
has in fact invested in the
development of several vaccine
passport schemes in recent
months. For now, UK arrivals are
subject to the government’s test-
to-release policy and quarantine
rules.

All for one, and one for all
For countries that rely on
travel and tourism as a major
economic contributor and source
of employment, vaccination
passports are a potential fast
track to recovery. However,
global herd immunity relies on
the vaccination of some 90%

April 2021 115

TRAVEL GEEKS

KIT LIST

BIRDING FOR BEGINNERS

BIRDING REQUIRES KIT THAT’S VERSATILE, TRAVEL FRIENDLY AND
MOST IMPORTANTLY INCONSPICUOUS. THIS KIT WILL HELP YOU

GET THE BEST FROM YOUR ADVENTURE. WORDS: NORA WALLAYA

1 MILLICAN BOWDEN THE CAMERA 4 4 RHS BIRDWATCHING JOURNAL
5 Jot down field notes and record
MESSENGER BAG sightings with the help of this
2 new birdwatching companion.
This lightweight, 20-litre field bag With beautiful illustrations along
has the space to carry all your with reference information on
essentials along with camera identification and habitats, the
equipment and a laptop. It has an journal helps you organise the
easy-access roll-top, plenty of details of your birding trip and
compartments (including one for a learn what to look out for. RRP:
water bottle) and a stabilising strap £9.99 (pre-order). waterstones.com
to secure it to your body while on
the move. Plus, it’s made from 65% 5 RSPB POCKET GUIDE TO
recycled weatherproof canvas and
has aluminium fastenings — not a BRITISH BIRDS
hint of plastic in sight. RRP: £135. Around 950 illustrations and 215
homeofmillican.com distribution maps make this new
edition of the bestselling field
2 NIKON COOLPIX P1000 6 guide a must-have for beginner
birders. It’s compact — ideal for
With a 125x optical zoom and 3 travel — and has descriptions
250x digital zoom, you’ll be poised that cover identification, calls and
to get the most from your bird song. RRP: £6.99. rspb.org.uk
photography, wherever your
subject might swoop. Action 6 COUNTRY INNOVATION
shots retain sharpness and
clarity with Nikon’s own vibration AVOCET JACKET
reduction and image stabilisation A great all-rounder, this jacket
technology. Plus, it has built-in is made from a top-quality
wi-fi and Bluetooth for quick waterproof, windproof and
uploading and sharing. breathable fabric that also
RRP: £899. jessops.com happens to be quiet, with minimal
rustle, so you won’t scare away
3 CONTIGO AUTOSEAL the wildlife. It’s roomy, with plenty
of space in the hood and the
LUXE TRAVEL MUG body for extra layers. RRP: £195.
countryinnovation.com
This sleek travel mug keeps drinks
hot for up to five hours, and cold
for up to 12. It’s designed for one-
handed drinking, is spill-proof and
has a lockable lid and button-push
mechanism for easy sipping. It’s
BPA-free and is fully dishwasher-
safe. RRP: £29. gocontigo.com

Three more: binoculars & scopes

CELESTRON SWAROVSKI OPTIK DG RSPB PUFFIN COMPACT
HUMMINGBIRD 9-27X56 BINOCULARS
ED SCOPE These state-of-the-art
binoculars can be used with Lightweight, compact
This travel-friendly wildlife- the companion app to help and excellent value, these
spotting scope is an you identify, document and binoculars are ideal for
excellent mid-range option. share your sightings. RRP: beginners. RRP: £80.
RRP: £199. celestron.com £1,649. swarovskioptik.com rspb.org.uk

116 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

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PARTNER CONTENT FOR DISCOVER QATAR

HOW TO SEE THE WHALE SHARKS OF

QATAR

A new expedition cruise unlocks the secrets of Qatar’s coastline, offering zodiac rides among a
rare congregation of whale sharks. In this interview, we discuss some of the tour’s highlights

Elusive and migratory, whale sharks are What can guests expect from still limited compared to that around more IMAGE: ©2011 WILDESTANIMAL
mysterious creatures. Catching a glimpse of the whole experience? ‘mainstream’ animals. We’d like to tell their
their dotted fins is no easy task, but Discover story and explain why it’s so important and
Qatar’s first expedition cruise will change Brigadier General Mohamed Al Jaidah, the why they aggregate in the hundreds in this
this: a unique itinerary will take travellers lead whale shark research scientist in Qatar particular area. The water temperature is
to a marine zone — usually closed to the for the past 15 years, will host sessions as perfect, hovering around 27C for around
public — in the north east of the country to they’re cruising to the north east coast of six months of the year, and that creates a
see the world’s largest gathering of these Qatar, and we’ll also be hearing from marine flourishing ecosystem. There’ll be exposure
gentle giants. Angus Tandy, head of product biologists. The following morning, guests to dolphins, sharks, reef fish — it’s a really
at Discover Qatar, answers some questions. will head out on Zodiac rigid inflatable boats varied selection of animals that people will
to explore. We won’t be swimming with the encounter out there due to that richness in
What prompted the launch of whale sharks; we’re there to protect them the ecosystem.
this expedition cruise? and tell their story, not to invade their space.
It’s going to be really important we keep a Essentials
Qatar has amazing attractions on land, but distance and adhere to some of the strictest
the sea experience offers something unique protocols when working with wildlife in The limited-edition Whale Sharks of Qatar
to the region. The major attraction beneath an expedition setting. In this particular expedition cruise offers a nine-day, all-inclusive
the waves are the whale sharks, and the only environment, you can see up to 500 whale package on board Ponant’s Le Champlain expedition
way to experience this spectacle properly is sharks in one location, so you’ll see the vessel for a maximum of 170 guests, with the
via an expedition cruise. But, by bringing an fins, you’ll see the tails — they’ll be under opportunity to extend the experience to an 11-day
expedition cruise here, we’re also able to take the boat, they’ll be swimming next to you; package, including three nights in Doha. Facilities
guests into Khor Al Udaid — or the Inland they’ll be in all sorts of different locations. include a spa, two restaurants, a fitness centre and
Sea, as it’s commonly referred to — where a theatre room, plus five-star services and lectures.
sand dunes from the desert dissolve into the The whale shark is an The cruise has been postponed for 2021 due to the
water. There are also islands along the coast endangered species. What coronavirus outbreak and is planned to operate in
that lend themselves to exploration focused do you want people to take 2022. Head to nationalgeographic.co.uk for a longer
around migratory birds and coral reefs. The away from this experience? version of this Q&A.
north of Qatar was a major coastal trading
hub in the 19th century and there are great We’d like them to understand more about
places around the UNESCO World Heritage the whale sharks and what’s important
Site of Al Zubarah. There are stories from our for their habitat. Despite all the research
waters that are not often told. that’s been done in recent years, the body
of knowledge concerning whale sharks is

To find out more, visit discoverqatar.qa/whale-sharks-of-qatar

IN THE NEXT ISSUE

52 weekend
breaks

Who says epic adventures have to be long-haul? We round up the
finest flight-free weekend escapes in the UK and Europe, from
spotting puffins in Wales and foraging in the Alps to e-biking in
Tuscany and horse-riding through Suffolk

IMAGE: GETTY Plus // Algarve, Antarctica, Cambodia, Cardiff, Greenland, Istria,
Liechtenstein, Malvern, Nashville, Ljubljana, Scotland & Trieste

May issue
On sale 1 april 2021

For more information on our subscription offer,
see page 128

April 2021 119

White-tailed sea eagle in flight
off the west coast of Scotland

120 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

A REWILDING W ater and trees stretch the most intensively farmed in the
REVOLUTION as far as the eye can country,” says Somerleyton, who,
see, giving way to a together with local farm-owners
A NEW ERA IS DAWNING ON FARMS AND bright blue sky. A lone canoeist Argus Hardy and Olly Birkbeck,
RURAL ESTATES ACROSS THE UK: OWNERS ARE cuts across the lake, sending have given over a fifth of their
RETHINKING BUSINESS MODELS BY WORKING ripples through a reflected skein combined 7,900 acres to wildlife,
HAND IN HAND WITH TOURISM TO RESTORE of geese, honking as they fly as part of regional recovery
OUR COUNTRYSIDE TO THE WILD AND HELP overhead. Otherwise, all is still: the initiative called WildEast. Over
US TO TRAVEL AT NATURE’S PACE stunned silence of a heatwave. It’s the next 50 years, it aims to
WORDS: SARAH BARRELL summer 2020, and in the window persuade other farmers, as well as
between lockdowns I’ve made it a councils, businesses, schools and
IMAGE: GETTY couple of hours out of London to garden owners, to do the same.
Fritton Lake, a spot on the watery The target is to give 250,000
Suffolk-Norfolk border near The hectares of East Anglia to wildlife
Broads that is, at least for this and create an accreditation
pandemic travel-deprived soul, a system to encourage wildlife-
respectable stand-in for the wilds friendly farming.
of Canada.
“I’ve always been a tree-hugger
True, you won’t find moose but it’s taken a while to train that
on the loose in the marshes focus,” laughs Somerleyton. “Just
here, but the two-mile-long a few years ago, I was running
lake — the centrepiece of a a restaurant in London and
newly revamped luxury resort didn’t even question where the
set within the Somerleyton meat came from. But through
estate, is increasingly a place organisations like FWAG (Farming
where nature reigns. Owner Hugh and Wildlife Advisory Group),
Somerleyton has committed one I learned about places that
fifth (1,000 acres) of his land to were reintroducing species and
rewilding, a process that includes allowing nature to lead the way.”
slowly reducing non-native tree
cover to let light rejuvenate Somerleyton has also been
seedbeds. It’s also meant inspired by one of the UK’s
gradually reintroducing a mix longest-established wilding sites:
of both farmed and wild grazing Knepp, the 3,460-acre West
animals such as red and fallow Sussex estate owned by Charlie
deer, pigs, cattle, ponies and Burrell and Isabella Tree that went
sheep. This rootling, manuring, from commercial meat farming to
re-engineering of the estate’s organic, rewilded land with free-
patchwork of heath, woodland, range livestock and a glamping
wetland and former arable land site. Wilding, Tree’s story of that
aims to return the terrain to its journey, published in 2018, has
natural, uncultivated state. become a handbook of sorts for
like-minded farmers.
According to the WWF, the
UK is one of the most nature- “I think we’re all realising that
depleted countries in the world; there’s no more negotiation time,”
we have the highest proportion of says Somerleyton. “Mass meat-
land under agriculture (70%), of farming, animal welfare, carbon.
which less than 3% is organic. And We have to act now to reverse
clearly, being farmland, it isn’t the damage. We’re beginning to
biodiverse. Habitat decimation get a community of experts to
has resulted in one in seven of our form a WildEast ‘dream team’.
native species facing extinction It’s a playful title but the idea is
more than half are in decline. that working together — local
“Land here in East Anglia is among residents, the Broads Authority,
National Grid, university

April 2021 121

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Email: [email protected]

REWILDING

scientists, Natural England — we into eco-tourism, but suddenly we they won’t return on their own”, nature experiences will be
can speak with common voice.” had groups visiting — the National according to Tree. “Obviously, we introduced within the next year,
Trust, RSPB and the like — that had to manage those numbers and there’ll be lots of engagement
And that common voice is all felt conventional conservation sensitively; repeated low-level work with farmers looking to learn
getting louder. “There’s a direction had something to learn from what disturbance, like large numbers of more, to drive similar projects.”
of travel, a chorus of voices was going on at Knepp. And we people wandering off footpaths Local collaboration is key to the
now,” says Richard Bunting from needed somewhere to put them has a huge impact. But it also success of projects like Ken Hill,
Rewilding Britain, a charity that up. So, along came the campsite, shows how tourism could be a which soon plans to introduce
works to restore ecosystems. “It’s then glamping, and safari-style lifeline to marginalised or remote white-tailed eagles to its coastal
not piecemeal anymore. We’ve tours based on our experiences in farms and how scarce truly wild land. Hunted to extinction by the
been talking to landowners for Africa, where my husband Charlie places are. Everybody should be early 1900s, the UK’s largest bird
some time, and attitudes have was born.” able to walk to one, rather than of prey has been successfully
shifted. We’ve called for 30% having to drive miles.” reintroduced to the Isle of Wight
of the UK to undergo nature The success of Tree’s book and Scotland.
restoration in the next 10 years, further boosted Knepp’s profile. Back in East Anglia, near the
at least 5% of which needs to “If I’d written it even six years northwest Norfolk seaside, Ken The bigger picture
be core rewilding projects. The earlier, I don’t think it would’ve Hill Estate is another farm where In 2019, Scotland led the UK
Wildlife Trusts [a federation of 46 gone anywhere,” she says. “But tourism and rewilding work hand in declaring a global climate
UK wildlife conservation charities] suddenly we had Extinction in hand. “We were already located emergency, with rewilding
has called for similar action, as Rebellion, Greta Thunberg and in a tourist destination,” says among its arsenal of proposed
has the UK government in recent Attenborough talking about owner Dominic Buscall. “And post measures to combat the crisis.
months, although it’s talking about plastics — a Pandora’s box of Brexit, nature-based eco-tourism “The government is rewilding
including existing national parks, pent-up anxiety people hadn’t provides an accessible alternative Forestry Commission land and
which is a separate issue — many been able to articulate was to EU farming subsidies.” Ken nature reserves, but there’s an
aren’t in a good state.” suddenly opened. Rewildling is Hill’s innovative, ‘regenerative’ embedded cultural tradition
part of that.” farming focuses on soil that’s hard to shift,” says Peter
This February, Rewilding restoration to drive biodiversity. Cairns, director of rewilding
Britain launched a nationwide And that interest seemed to A quarter of the 4,000-acre estate charity Scotland: The Big Picture.
network of large-scale rewilding grow exponentially as the Covid-19 is rewilding, with beavers being “Moving people out and nature
projects. “There are about 20 so pandemic progressed. Around introduced as dam-building flood in can recall the Highland
far, but this will grow rapidly,” says 30,000 visitors arrived at Knepp mitigators, along with wild cattle, Clearances” [the enforced
Richard Bunting. post-lockdown in summer 2020, ponies and pigs as ‘site mangers’ evictions of Highlands and Islands
eager to see recently introduced for a more natural ecosystem. communities for farming, which
Let nature lead beavers and white storks began in the mid-18th century].
Rewilding — the restoration — keystone species that are “And now, we wait; we work But Cairns believes tourism has
of ecosystems to a state of crucial to ecosystem regeneration. at nature’s pace,” says Buscall.
self-sufficiency — may be a These species “need a little help; “Camping, glamping and guided Ice on the flooded freshwater marshes
comparatively new movement of Ken Hill Estate, Snettisham, Norfolk
in the UK but it’s been in
IMAGE: ALAMY increasingly common parlance
since such high-profile projects
as the reintroduction of wolves
to Yellowstone National Park
in the US in 1995. It’s often used
interchangeably with wilding
(which seeks to create new, wilder
ecosystems), a term popularised
by Tree’s book, Wilding. “This
year, I’ve been writing an actual
handbook to wilding — responding
to the tsunami of enquiries we get
for practical advice,” says Tree.
“It’s incredible how far things have
come, given how it all started.”

Twenty years ago, her Sussex
estate, Knepp, went bust. Farming
had failed, the land was depleted.
“EU subsidies were the only things
keeping many farms afloat. But it
forced the kind of agriculture that
wasn’t natural, or sustainable,”
says Tree. “We felt responsible
for repairing the biodiversity, and
it was astonishing how quickly
headline species came back
— including nightingales and
turtle doves — that had long been
absent. I wasn’t thinking of moving

April 2021 123

REWILDING

a role to play in reframing that working symbiotically with Inverness, has planted close MORE INFO: IMAGE: GETTY
narrative. “Carefully managed, rewilding. “Ospreys alone bring to a million native trees, frittonlake.co.uk
it provides local opportunity: in something like £3.5m a year restored damaged peatland and wildeast.co.uk
economic, educational, and, dare to Scotland,” says Bunting. reintroduced red squirrels since rewildingbritain.org.uk
I say, spiritual,” he says. “There’s Further afield, in Finland, the it launched in 2003. All now worldwildlife.org
no doubt that being out in nature, chance to see brown bears thrive around lodges in which knepp.co.uk
having it interpreted to you by and wolverines are reportedly visitors can bed down in comfort wildkenhill.co.uk
a knowledgeable guide, has a bringing in up to €5m (£4.4m) a before setting out on nature tours scotlandbigpicture.com
profound impact on people. And year; griffon vultures in France across the 39sq-mile Highlands treesforlife.org.uk/
the appetite is there. Scotland has attract tens of thousands of estate, where, soon, they might dundreggan
projects coming out of its ears.” visitors. “As long as this is done encounter reintroduced Scottish langholminitiative.org.uk
sensitively, it can feed the growing wildcats and, eventually, wolves. theeuropeannaturetrust.
Next year, the world’s first appetite for people to engage com
rewilding centre is set to open with nature. It’s known to be good Back at Fritton Lake, I swim alladale.com
at the 10,000-acre Dundreggan for health and wellbeing and is under a setting sun, barn owls and
estate, complete with such a positive way of travelling, marsh harriers my companions, FURTHER READING:
accommodation and a visitor and there’s an opportunity to give swooping about in the gloaming. Wilding: The Return of
centre. Led by the conservation something back.” “If you go camping in, say, Atlantic Nature to a British Farm,
charity Trees for Life, which has France, people think nothing of by Isabella Tree (£9.99,
20 years of expertise working for Paul Lister, founder of The wild boar roaming the other side Pan Macmillan)
the regeneration of Scotland’s European Nature Trust (TENT), of the canvas,” says Somerleyton. Feral: Rewilding the
Caledonian Forest, the centre agrees. “Taking people into nature “If I suddenly did this at Fritton Land, Sea and Human
expects to welcome around helps them want to protect it. — well, it would be problematic. Life, by George Monbiot,
50,000 people annually. “You This connection is key,” he says. So, it’s about a gradual change, a co-founder of
don’t want to overwhelm an area, TENT organises tours to rewilding slowly waking up regional Rewilding Britain
but set on the road between Loch projects in Romania’s Carpathian collective consciousness. We’ll (£10.99, Penguin Books)
Ness and Skye, it’s accessible: Mountains, Italy and Spain, where offer lake and woodland safaris
a gateway to the Highlands, bears, wolves and lynxes now and partner with schools on ABOVE: Red squirrel,
for people to get out and see thrive. “It’s crucial that hotels farming and wildlife education. Cairngorms, Scottish
rewilding in action,” says Rewilding in rural areas engage with local Because, ultimately, we want to Highlands
Britain’s Richard Bunting. “And it wildlife and NGOs, and allow work towards living in a nature
will create jobs in an area that’s guests to find out what they do, reserve, not just visiting one.”
suffered economically.” be it a turtle foundation or big cat
conservation,” adds Lister. Read more about new and
Further south, in Dumfries upcoming rewilding initiatives at
and Galloway, nature, tourism TENT’s UK project, Alladale nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
and the local economy sit in Wilderness Reserve, near
harmonious balance, thanks to
a unique business model. The
recent purchase of 5,000 acres
of wildlife-rich land at Langholm
Moor represents south Scotland’s
biggest community buyout, in
terms of land value. “Much of
Scotland is owned by a relatively
small number of people,” says
Bunting. “So, even if it comes up
for sale, it can be hard for local
communities to buy.” But buy they
did, after £3.8m of funds were
raised, aided by organisations
like the Woodland Trust and
Scottish Land Fund. The resultant
Langholm Initiative will this year
start work on the Tarras Valley
Nature Reserve, set on land
that’s a haven for merlins, black
grouse, short-eared owls and hen
harriers (Britain’s most intensively
persecuted bird of prey, according
to the RSPB). “Eco-tourism and
encouraging visitors to this hidden
natural gem is a key part of the
community’s plans to support
regeneration of this former mill
town,” says Bunting.

There are clear economic
benefits in travel and tourism

124 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

PARTNER CONTENT FOR VISIT ISESHIMA BUREAU

THE AMA DIVERS OF THREE MORE
EXPERIENCES
ISE-SHIMA
Enjoying local food
This serene Japanese region is one of the best places in the Ise-Shima makes the
country to learn all about the ancient tradition of ama diving most of its proximity
to the sea. A traditional
IMAGES: VISIT ISESHIMA BUREAU; JINGUSHICHO Ise-Shima is the timeless Japanese landscape the quays, where weary-limbed ama rest and restaurant in Ise city,
familiar from woodblock prints: a peninsula recuperate after a dive. Inside, guests can Daiki is the place to taste
of forested shores, fishing villages and green meet the divers themselves and listen to their local seafood, with multi-
islets in Pacific bays. The region exerts a tales of aquatic adventure while tucking into course kaiseki banquets
magnetic power over six million Japanese a lunch of freshly dived clams, barbecued and dishes of abalone,
pilgrims who visit the holy Shinto shrine scallops and lobster. spiny lobster and more.
of Ise Jingu every year, while nature-lovers
come here to renew their spirits at Ise-Shima Next, follow the coast a few miles north Sea kayaking in Ise-
National Park. What’s more, Ise-Shima is and you’ll reach Mikimoto Pearl Island, Shima National Park
also the last great stronghold of around 600 a tiny offshore landmass beside the city At the southern cusp of
ama divers, and the best place for visitors to of Toba. Mikimoto is the birthplace of Ise-Shima National Park
discover their ancient way of life. the production of cultured pearls, which is Ago Bay, a muddle of
were once harvested by ama divers. Now tidal channels offering
Meaning ‘women of the ocean’, ama once a museum, it hosts regular diving displays safe harbour from the
thrived across Japan, diving to collect by ama in the surrounding seas. Inside the Pacific. Shima Nature
seafood for their villages and, in the Ise- museum itself, meanwhile, are models made School offers 90-minute
Shima area, prized abalone as offerings to with Mikimoto-farmed pearls. tours out of the bay’s
deities at Shinto shrines, such as Ise Jingu. eastern edge.
Plunging into dark fathoms, gliding among To really dive deep into the soul of ama,
reefs and kelp forests, ama held their breath however, head to Ishigami-san shrine, How to visit Ise Jingu
for minutes on end. Now clad in diving suits, surrounded by a little wood in Osatsu. For Japan’s holiest Shinto
they used to wear white costumes to ward off centuries, ama divers have come to pray to shrine includes Geku,
the cold — as well as hungry sharks. the resident deity for safe swimming and a home of the god of
good harvest. Now a shrine synonymous food and shelter, and
To learn more about this tradition, start at with female pilgrims, women of all Naiku, abode of the sun
the Ama Hut Experience in the Ise-Shima backgrounds come to ask for safe passage goddess. Everyone can
area — visitors are welcomed at a shack on through life — at sea and on dry land. admire the grounds; G7
leaders visited Ise Jingu
during the 2016 summit.

ABOVE: An ama diver, Ise-Shima

Essentials

Getting there: Direct Kintetsu
trains connect Osaka or Nagoya
and Ise-Shima in around two
hours. Attractions are accessible
by train or bus, but rent a car to
explore more remote locations.

To find out more, visit iseshima-kanko.jp/en

EVENTS

FOOD FESTIVAL

17-18 JULY 2021

BUSINESS DESIGN CENTRE, LONDON

Experience the world through food We’ll be serving up a busy weekend of live
and travel at our second National cooking demos, tasting workshops, panel
Geographic Traveller Food Festival discussions and exhibitor stalls to whet your
— an immersive two-day event over appetite for a culinary adventure. Join big names
17-18 July at the Business Design such as Jay Rayner, José Pizarro, Grace Dent,
Centre in London. Aldo Zilli, Fuchsia Dunlop, Jack Stein and Theo
Michaels as we cook, talk and taste our way
around the globe.

B U Y YO U R TI C K E T B E FO RE 1 3 M A RC H TO G E T TH E E A RLY- B I RD PRI C E O F J U ST £ 1 0

FOO DFE STIVAL . NATG EOTR AVE LLE R .CO.U K/N GTAPR 21

E A R LY-
BIRD TICKETS

JUST £10,
BOOK BY 13

MARCH

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

126 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

EVENTS

SPONSORED BY

TR AVE L GE E KS

IMAGES: CHARLIE RICHARDS; GETTY. FOOD STYLING: ANGELA ROMEO 9 MARCH 2021

MOUNTAINS, MOONSHINE &
BARBECUE IN NORTH CAROLINA

Join us for a virtual Travel Geeks on 9 March, when our expert
panel will discuss all things North Carolina

In this free, hour-long online event, we’ll be We’ll also be discussing the best spots
diving into the fascinating coastal US state. for surfing, kayaking and cycling, and if
It’s a place where imaginative chefs are history’s your thing, you can learn about the
bringing the region’s amazing food to the state’s incredible past, from the first-ever
fore; where beaches, mountains, waterfalls flight and the Civil Rights Movement to the
and lakes are waiting to be explored; and, of ghostly tale of Roanoke, the lost colony.
course, where visitors can learn about the
surprising history of moonshine. Join National Geographic Traveller
contributing editor Jo Fletcher-Cross from
Whether you want to hike through the 19.00 on Tuesday 9 March to hear from our
Blue Ridge Mountains, follow your nose on panel of experts: author Emma John; travel
beer and barbecue trails, spot sea turtles or bloggers Christina Riley and Carl Hedinger;
discover more about bluegrass music, North chef Cheetie Kumar; and Visit North
Carolina offers a rich variety of experiences. Carolina’s Margo Knight Metzger.

18 MAY 2021 SPONSORED BY
Italy: cities, culture & cuisine
We’ll be exploring the many facets of Italy at this exciting
Travel Geeks event, in association with Citalia.

FIND OUT MORE AND BOOK TICKETS AT NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/EVENTS
April 2021 127

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IMAGES: GETTY; MARK GAME me as the city is dear to my heart. My first
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and the New Town’s masterclass in town
planning. My most interesting discovery,
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April 2021 129

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130 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

ODESA is the hottest
travel destination of Ukraine

MAIN THINGS TO DO IN ODESA

1 To walk around 6
Odesa Marine Station
Walk around
2 To count steps Turkey and Greece
of Potemkin stairs in the center
of Odesa
3 Visit old Odesa’s nook

4 To haggle on
the Privoz market

5 7 To visit Odesa
Opera and Ballet House
To experience
Odesa cuisine 8 Open the door
and taste to the House of the Sun
local wine
9 To learn the legends
of Odesa catacombs

10 Dance
at Odesa nightclubs

www.odessatourism.org

RECHARGE • RECONNECT • REJUVENATE