THE BRAND
Can the future be carbon-
neutral? We’re taking
notes from Gucci’s book
of sustainability on curbing
a brand’s carbon footprint
The Florentine label publishes an
Environmental Profi t and Loss account
every year to measure its impact on the
environment. It was one of the fi rst fashion
brands to do so in 2017.
It has increased use of renewable energy
across all its operations, stores, offi ces and
warehouses. Currently, this accounts for THE INDIVIDUAL Cyrill
per cent, but by 2020, it is targeting 100 p Gutsch
cent coverage.
Gucci has been recycling plastic a As the founder of Parley for the Oceans, Cyrill Gutsch
banned PVC since 2015. has been tackling the problem of marine destruction with
It is shifting to low-impact raw mate
als like ECONYL, regenerated cashme innovation and collaboration. By Shalini Shah
and recycled or ethical gold.
It sources leather from farms that p There’s a scene in Pirates Of The Caribbean: Curse Of The Black Pearl
serve ecosystems and avoid deforestation. (2003), where a feisty Elizabeth Swann, cornered by Pintel and Ragetti,
Gucci reduces waste in manufacturi invokes her right to ‘parley’—to be taken to the captain to have a conver-
processes with programmes like Scrap-Le sation. That was 2003, and on a Disney movie set in an ocean-fi lled world
(to use fewer chemicals and less water where not much time was spent on chit-chat. This is 2020, and we’re
treat leather) and Gucci-Up (to upcy feeling the pinch of not having had conversations that should have been
leather and textile waste). had. A world where 16-year-olds are, rightly, climate-shaming a genera-
It supports forest conservation throu tion that failed to act when it needed to. But some are trying, on an indi-
four REDD+ projects in Peru, Kenya, In vidual level, to right the wrongs done to our oceans and natural world.
nesia and Cambodia to offset all remaini As the founder of Parley for the Oceans, Cyrill Gutsch has been part-
greenhouse gas emissions annually from its nering with companies like Corona, Adidas and S’Well, to name a few, to
operations and the entire supply chain. The raise awareness on damage to the oceans and institute projects to re-
project also economically and socially verse and stop it. A signifi cant step has been the development of Parley
supports local communities. Ocean Plastic, an example of upcycling marine litter and turning it into
covetable material for clothing and footwear.
Gutsch, who started Parley for the Oceans in 2012, explains it as, “a
Inside the global network where creators, thinkers and leaders from the creative
Gucci maison
industries, brands, governments and environmental groups come to-
gether to raise awareness on the beauty and fragility of the oceans and
collaborate on projects that can end their destruction.” This, they
achieve through Parley’s AIR strategy: to avoid plastic, intercept plastic
waste and ultimately redesign materials, methods and products. It’s a
strategy that spans education, waste retrieval and innovation, and pro-
viding alternatives.
What does 2020 look like? Says Gutsch, “Plastic is a design failure—
we can’t keep it in a closed loop, we need to accelerate the Material
Revolution. Biofabrication has the potential to underpin an entirely new
economy, one that functions in partnership with the planet’s natural
systems. We need to encourage and scale innovation and support the
innovators. This is our window to reinvent and create the new. Our fu-
ture depends on it.” ■
www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA JANUARY 151
The clothes I put on, my shoes, the ink on my
body, my nail paint—everything I wear is black.
I like to think that my initiation into a uniform
way of dressing for the past seven years stems
from my time growing up in the UAE, where I
would see women in black and men in white. If
you think about it, clothing is our first form of
defence; it is the reason people find comfort in
uniformity. I have a kaftan, abaya, hanbok,
kurta and salwar, all in black cotton. The
drapes come together to form this magnified
silhouette, like a massive void, a black hole.
“Why black?” I’ve often been asked. The an-
swer is that I love the anonymity. As a designer,
black also becomes a blank slate for experimen-
tation. There are certain construction details or
design elements that can easily be masked in
black—like a detail inside the pocket of my kaf-
tan that only I can see, feel and sense.
Moreover, a uniform transcends climate, lo-
cation or situation. I remember, I was at a su-
permarket in Reykjavík and people thought I
was homeless because I was in a black cotton
kurta. In Colombo, I was wearing black by the
hotel pool when it was 35 degrees Celsius and
the staff thought I was absolutely crazy.
The longest-running piece I have is a hanbok.
When it ran its course, a local tailor’s skills
came handy to reconstruct, refurbish and up-
Kallol Datta date it. It’s seen me through friends’ weddings,
STYLE art gallery visits, hours spent at the studio and
even at curtain call during my Mumbai show.
Same kind of versation. During my research on garments not
There’s also the cultural sustainability con-
considered conventionally fashionable, like the
different hanbok in Korea and our construction of the
angrakha, I realised the similarities in the way
we build these two patterns. Wearing them as
my uniform, I do feel like I am sustaining our
craft, culture and heritage.
What do Carolina Herrera, Mark In urban settings, where there are multiple
Zuckerberg and Hillary Clinton have in sources of buying, it’s easy to succumb to spend-
common? They’ve each found comfort in a ing money and fill up your wardrobe with things
that have less wear value. So then, how do we
daily uniform that has stood the test of time, buy less? Wardrobe swaps and thrift shopping
age and place. A uniform is not a novel can be a great way to subscribe to trends without
adding to what already exists in excess.
concept, but in a time of see-now-buy-now, In my wardrobe for instance, all these pieces
could wearing one mean a more mindful coexist. They get along with each other. I don’t COURTESY MICHEL FIGUET; GETTY IMAGES
have to worry about coordinating outfits. So 10
way of curating wardrobes worldwide? Kallol years down the line, I may have more grey in my
Datta, champion of the anti-fit and all-black hair, but I’ll still dress the same—in the comfort
of all-encompassing, all-forgiving black.
aesthetic, gives Vogue his viewpoint —As told to Garima Gupta
152 VOGUE INDIA JANUARY 2020www.vogue.in
in
WHITE JEANS + JACKET + SCARF
Tonne Goodman >> WOMEN IN UNIFORM
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, In fashion, is a uniform an occupational hazard?
US VOGUE
“My ‘uniform’ of white jeans (Levi’s), Designers and editors have often chosen a
a dark top, turtleneck or man-tailored look that transcends trends
shirt, the ‘Cheerio’ print Charvet
scarf and loafers or boots is born
from practicality—an efficient way <<Carolina Herrera
to manage the daily task of getting DESIGNER
dressed. It easily transitions from day The white shirt has been a constant in the
to evening by swapping boots for veteran designer’s style—second only to
velvet slippers, dark tops for silk shirts the full skirt. She has often described the
and adding my pearls. Its consistency crisp white shirt as her security blanket.
bypasses fashion trends, so there is no
need to buy new looks each season. I
only buy what I love—pieces that have FULL SKIRT + SHIRT
value and those I know I will keep
forever. I still have a black leather
Azzedine Alaïa trench coat that I wear
on special evenings and Calvin Klein
pieces from the late ’80s and early
’90s. They are timeless and beautifully
made—the definition of sustainability,
in its most basic form.”
<<Vera Wang BLACK BOOTS + TROUSER + JACKET
DESIGNER
Yohji Yamamoto famously said, “Black is both
modest and arrogant at the same time,” as
fellow black-wearer Vera Wang demonstrates.
>>Emmanuelle Alt
BLACK + BLACK + BLACK EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, VOGUE PARIS
The editor’s capsule closet of key
pieces is a lesson in cost-per-wear. n
www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA JANUARY 2020 153
in
EVA KRUSE
CEO, GLOBAL FASHION AGENDA
As the founder of Global Fashion Agenda, the initiative behind
the Copenhagen Fashion Summit and a leading forum on sus-
tainable fashion, Kruse encourages the industry to converse on
and collaborate towards a sustainable future. Her biggest chal-
lenge has been “to ensure that the discussions continue outside
the event and conclusions lead to tangible actions—that the in-
dustry walks the talk when it comes to bringing about actual
change and solutions.”
What’s one myth about sustainable fashion that
you would like to dispel?
“That in order to be sustainable, businesses have to sacrifi ce
long-term profi t. On the contrary, our research has proven that
sustainability is an opportunity to improve effi ciency, reap fi nan-
cial rewards and develop a business model to meet the demands
of the future.”
PEOPLE ARE
TALKING
ABOUT...
THE FOUNDERS’ CLUB
‘SUSTAINABILITY’ HAS A PROBLEM. AS WITH ALL
OVERUSED WORDS, IT HAS REACHED A STAGE WHERE
IT IS STARTING TO LOSE ALL MEANING. TO HELP MAKE
SENSE OF THE BUZZIEST BUZZWORD IN FASHION, WE AMANDA HEARST
CAUGHT UP WITH EIGHT WOMEN WORKING TOWARDS CO FOUNDER, MAISON DE MODE
A MORE SUSTAINABLE FUTURE, AND ASKED EACH OF
THEM ONE BURNING QUESTION. BY PAHULL BAINS
Amanda Hearst founded the sustainable fashion
retail site Maison de Mode in 2012 and has champi-
oned ethical fashion, both personally and profes-
sionally, ever since. Last year, she walked down the
aisle in a completely sustainable Oscar de la Renta
wedding gown and frequently reps eco-friendly la-
bels. “Both Emma Watson and Gisele Bündchen
have been dressing sustainably on the red carpet,
and I think that has opened the doors for other ce-
lebrities to do the same,” she says. “It’s a process,
but I think we are on our way.”
What’s one way to be a more conscious
consumer?
“Buy less and buy better. Buying less means wear-
ing what you have and renting items you want.
Buying better means asking questions like, ‘Who SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
made my clothes? Where did this come from? What
is it made of ?’”
154 VOGUE INDIA JANUARY www.vogue.in
EVELYN MORA
FOUNDER, HELSINKI FASHION WEEK
As the founder of a sustainability-focused fash-
ion week, Evelyn Mora understands the com-
plexity of that buzzword better than most.
“There is a real need for change, and sustaina-
bility as a word is ruined because it means every-
thing yet nothing at the same time. The words
‘natural’ and ‘sustainable’ are being misused a
lot. Sustainability is not an ‘aspect’ of your work.
It is the vision behind every decision and every
action, and must be approached simultaneously
from multiple angles.”
What is the biggest challenge in organis-
ing a sustainable fashion week?
“The challenges mostly revolve around a lack of
collaboration, not only for Helsinki Fashion
Week but for everybody. Sustainability is a not a
competition, it is something we all have to reach
for and help each other achieve.”
SABENA PURI
CEO AND CO FOUNDER, STAGE
After living in the US for 15 years, Sabena Puri returned to
India and was struck by the way fashion consumption in the
country had changed. “Millennials were obsessive social me-
dia users and avid Bollywood enthusiasts who watched TV
24/7. They wanted to look glamorous and stylish all the time,
but this was all designer-led and available at price points
that young India could not afford.” So she launched Stage3,
a clothing rental company that offers pieces by designers
such as Payal Singhal, Sabyasachi and Anamika Khanna.
What is a misconception people have about making
sustainable fashion choices?
“A lot of people believe that sustainable fashion is expensive
and outdated, but there are rental options for trendy, glam-
orous fashion.” >
www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIAJANUARY 155
in
CARRY SOMERS AND ORSOLA DE CASTRO
FOUNDERS, FASHION REVOLUTION
It was the Rana Plaza fi re in Dhaka, Bangladesh, that spurred this
duo into action, leading to the launch of Fashion Revolution and the
viral social media movement #WhoMadeMyClothes. “I remember
the overwhelming shock and sadness over the news, but also inevi-
tability—we had all warned that a disaster of this scale was likely to
take place,” says Somers. “I realised this had happened because of a
lack of transparency in supply chains.”
How can people better understand the true cost of the
garments they’re buying?
“Dig deeper, fi nd out more about the brand or retailer and make
sure that your purchase matches your principles. And ask questions.
Apps like Good On You can help answer them,” says de Castro.
SAACHI BAHL
FOUNDER, SAAHRA
“In 2016, I founded Saahra with a vision to create India’s fi rst
platform for conscious luxury fashion and lifestyle,” says Saachi
Bahl. As a retail store and soon-to-launch e-commerce platform,
Saahra endeavours to meet global standards of sustainability,
carrying only brands that qualify as sustainable, fair-trade and
cruelty-free, such as Akaaro, Ekà and Doodlage.
Is it a myth that ‘ethical’ equals ‘expensive’?
“When we talk of ‘ethical’ manufacturing, we must take into
account that positive production practices involve a more de-
tailed, considered approach, whether it is sourcing raw materi-
als, focusing on locally-made garments or ensuring fair wages for
artisans. This increases the production cost, making an ‘ethical’
product seem more expensive, when in reality that’s not true. In
essence, it’s unfair to even compare an ethically made product
with those that do not comply with ethical trade practices.”
REBECCA VAN BERGEN
FOUNDER AND EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, NEST
Rebecca van Bergen’s grandmother, a seamstress, taught her that using one’s
hands to create is an act of power and beauty. “I became interested in better un-
derstanding the economics of craft and their role in fashion—specifi cally whether
artisans were reaping the rewards of their hard work in a country like India,
where most women are involved in some form of craftwork.” So, she founded Nest
in 2006 to connect artisans with brands to make sure underserved communities
could be fairly employed. “Artisans who typically work out of their homes or small
workshops tend to be the most invisible, and therefore, exploited,” she says.
Is there one aspect of sustainability that is often overlooked?
“Social sustainability (the human aspect) is as important as the environment, so SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
home workshops and small establishments should strive to be safe.” ■
156 VOGUE INDIA JANUARY www.vogue.in
in
SHINE ON
YOU CRAZY
DIAMOND
Two women
reminisce about
their most darling
diamond jewellery
“I grew up seeing
my grandmother
wear a
statement
white diamond
and yellow gold
‘Om’ pendant every
day. She passed it on
to me three years ago,
on her 80th birthday.
What makes it even
more special is that it was
designed by my father.”
— Masoom Minawala,
Luxury influencer
“For my birthday
last year, my
mother-in-law
gifted me her
thushi choker
necklace—a gift
from her husband
20 years ago. It’s a
JEWELLERY velvet-lined handcrafted
Counting carats highlight is the rose-cut
piece, but the real
diamond in the centre.”
— Akanksha Arora,
CEO, Tribe Amrapali
Diamond Producers Association’s Richa Singh speaks to
Praachi Raniwala on what makes diamonds last a lifetime
A STORY OF
SUSTAINABILITY
That diamonds are forever is more than extend from Botswana and South Africa
a catchphrase. Dating back three billion to Canada, Australia and Russia, while 83%
years, diamonds inhabited the planet the Kimberley Process, put in action in OF THE WATER USED
long before we did. Add to this their Richa Singh 2003, ensures that most conflict diamonds FOR DIAMOND MINING IS
irresistible sparkle, and it makes them a have been eliminated. Fact: 99.8 per cent RECYCLED
woman’s most celebrated possessions. There is of natural diamonds are certified conflict-free
a reason everyone, from Marilyn Monroe to today. Says Singh, “It is a myth that diamond $3.9billion
Rihanna, has waxed eloquent about them mining is not sustainable. The industry is mov- BENEFITS ARE CREATED
through the ages; Coco Chanel thought they ing towards a carbon-neutral future with the LOCALLY THROUGH
EMPLOYMENT
represented ‘the greatest value in the smallest increased use of renewable energy sources,
volume’. “Discovered in India 2,500 years ago, while also investigating ways to capture carbon
natural diamonds are among the oldest and dioxide within the rocks to offset emissions 2,650sqkm
hardest naturally occurring substances in the through mining.” LAND PROTECTED BY
world.Theiruniquechemicalcompositionmeans Take a look at every diamond in your collec- THE INDUSTRY, THREE
they last forever,” says Richa Singh, managing tion. Chances are that each represents a spe- TIMES THE AREA MINED
director, India, of Diamond Producers Associa- cial milestone or memory. “Natural diamonds
tion—a collective of seven of the world’s leading transcend eras and trends, making them bea-
diamond companies (including De Beers, Alrosa cons of sustainable slow fashion. It’s an in- $6.8billion
BENEFITS CREATED
and Petra Diamonds) that was formed in 2015. vestment for your future generations as well,” FOR COMMUNITIES BY
While real diamonds earned a bad rap due to adds Singh. “And isn’t that what eco-conscious PURCHASING LOCAL
perceived old-school, unethical mining practic- luxury is all about—something that lasts a GOODS AND SERVICES SIGNE VILSTRUP
es, the reality is different. Mining operations lifetime and beyond?” n
158 VOGUE INDIA JANUARY 2020www.vogue.in
in
EVENT
Power players
The stage set for a
night to remember
The third edition of Vogue
Women of the Year awards
NOV
ALIA
BHATT
celebrated a new crop of leaders
RANVEER
across fashion, food, lm,
SINGH
sports, social impact and beauty. KATRINA
KAIF
Here’s the lowdown on the CHAND
DUTEE
evening that was SINGH
LILLY
A NU SH KA
SHARMA
WOMEN of the YEAR
2019
(and the men we love)
WHAT: The Vogue Women of the Year awards
in association with Serum Institute of India
WHERE: Grand Hyatt Mumbai
WINNER’S
CIRCLE
The ingredients required to make a night to 15 sketches later the
remember: star power, standing ovations and winner’s trophy designed
speeches that stay with you long after it’s all by Anjali Mody using
over. The Vogue Women of the Year awards The Quarry Gallery
marble was ready
2019, in association with Serum Institute of
India, had all the makings of a memorable
night. An Olympic national champion, movers
and shakers of the beauty industry, the global
Indians we love, and a few good men—it’s safe
KEDAR NENE; ABHEET GIDWANI; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
to say the event, in its third edition, came back Dulquer
bigger and better than before. ■ Salmaan
Dutee Chand
The Absolut
160 VOGUE INDIA JANUARY www.vogue.in wall depicting an
inclusive world
Anushka
Sharma
Janhvi Kapoor
Winnie and Conde Nast’s
Harlow Arjun Mehra
Katrina Kaif
Conde Nast’s
Alex Kuruvilla with
winner Lilly Singh
Huda Kattan
The stars came out
A heavy dose of glamour brought to you Ranveer
Singh
by the leaders across industries
Vogue’s Priya Karan Johar
Tanna kicks o
the evening
HOST
WITH THE
MOST
Our host for the
evening, Karan Johar
pulled o a pair
of heels
Natasha
Poonawalla
in
Sultan Al
Darmaki, Cecilia
Morelli Parikh and
Michael Halpern
Nehal and
Monica Shah
Vogue’s
Dilshad Arora Shane and
Falguni Peacock
Tina Tahiliani T eena and
Parikh, Nikhil F is for Fashion Pulkith Modi
Mansata, Manish
Malhotra Designers, at home and away, and the
people behind the scenes, all came out in
support of the winners
Surabhi and
Nachiket Barve
Maneka Thadani
and Pareina Thapar
Milind Soman,
AD Singh, Jaspreet
Chandok and JJ Valaya
Nitya Arora and
Kunal Rawal
Bibhu Mohapatra
and Gaurav Gupta
Nikhil Mehra
and Dia Mirza
Anjali Lama
and Sabyasachi
Mukherjee KEDAR NENE; ABHEET GIDWANI; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Liva’s Rishi
Sharma, Srishti Samir
Sawhney and Suhani Parekh and Srivastav
Rajeev Gopal Prerna Malhotra
162 VOGUE INDIA JANUARY www.vogue.in
Michael Halpern
and Liva’s Dilip
Gaur present the
award to Ruchika
Sachdeva
Kabir Khan and Manish
Malhotra adjust Vogue’s Priyanka Khanna
Katrina Kaif’s gown Centre stage Charles de Castelbajac
with winner Jean-
Funny moments that kept the laughs coming and heart-
warming instances were the highlights of the evening
Sangita Jindal receiving
Gemfi elds’s Sophie The Quarry Gallery’s Rupesh Shinde her award from her
Ebbetts presenting and Chunky Pandey present the mother Urmila Kanoria
the award to award to Ananya Panday and Kalki Koechlin
Anushka Sharma
Globe-trotting
Flying across continents, these guests
made it to Maximum City
Winnie
Harlow
Mona and
Huda Kattan
LOS ANGELES
NEW YORK
Kunal Nayyar and
Neha Kapur Nayyar DUBAI LOS ANGELES
Pooja Mor
www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA JANUARY 163
in
Jim Sarbh
Neera Nundy Sanya V Jain
Forest Essentials’s
Karishma Manga Bedi
Neha Kapur
Nayyar Dressed to impress
Floor-grazing gowns, sharp suits and black, white Pernod Ricard’s
Aditya Sharma
and red ruled the red carpet
Cyrus
Sahukar
Kunal Nayyar
SEQUINS VS SUITS
Rahul Bose Matthew Spacey
Sonali Bendre Behl
Gayatri Oberoi
Manushi
Chhillar
Anchit Nayar
Istituto
Marangoni’s Kabir Khan
Tarun Pandey
164 VOGUE INDIA JANUARY www.vogue.in
Kusha Kapila
Siddhartth Mahajan
and Kaabia Grewal
United Colors
of Benetton’s
Jasleen Kaur
RED, BLACK AND WHITE
Neeta Lulla
Chunky and
Bhavana
Pandey
Radhika Apte
Taapsee Pannu
Shalini Passi
Janhvi Kapoor
Pooja Mor
Anjali Mody
KEDAR NENE; ABHEET GIDWANI; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Avni Biyani Kulsum Ruchika Mini Mathur Anupama Chopra Sunny Leone
Sachdeva
Shadab
Wahab
www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA JANUARY 165
in
Shibani
Dandekar
#Groupfi es
What’s a great night without a
sel e to remember it by?
Heena Sidhu
Simone Arora
T ara Sharma Saluja
and Dulquer Salmaan
Garima Arora Maria Ranveer Singh and
Dia Mirza Goretti Raja Kumari
POP OF
COLOUR
Amyra Dastur
Zeba Kohli
Kalki Koechlin
Dutee Chand and
Anushka Sharma
KEDAR NENE; ABHEET GIDWANI; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Falguni Nayar
166 VOGUE INDIA JANUARY www.vogue.in
Conde Nast’s Alex
Kuruvilla and Natasha
Poonawalla present the Winning moments
award to Winnie Harlow
The winners took their bow with the frow-ers
and host cheering them on
Huda Kattan takes
Vogue’s Anaita Shroff a video of Lilly
Adajania with Natasha Singh winning Karan Johar gets
Poonawalla the crowd going
The rap
that ended
the evening
With unforgettable
speeches and impromptu
raps, the award ceremony
was action-packed
Raja Kumari,
Ranveer Singh
and Lilly Singh
singing on stage
www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA JANUARY 2020 167 \
THE SCOOP ON THE MOST HAPPENING SO
Donald
Glover
Amandla
Stenberg Yara Shahidi Jon Hamm Anderson .Paak
Betye Saar and
John Legend
ALL STARS
Naomi
Alexandra Grant and Campbell and WHAT: Los Angeles County Museum
Keanu Reeves Billie Eilish of Art’s ninth annual Art + Film Gala in
association with Gucci
WHERE: Los Angeles, California
Co-chaired by Los Angeles County
Museum of Art (LACMA) trustee Eva
Chow and actor Leonardo DiCaprio, the
ninth annual Art + Film Gala, in association
with Gucci, saw a star-studded turnout—
dressed in Gucci—from the worlds of
fashion, fi lm, music and art. The event took
place in November and honoured artist
From left: Marco Betye Saar and fi lmmaker Alfonso Cuarón.
Bizzarri and Alessandro The night ended with a DJ set by Rainey
Michele with Salma Qualley and a special performance by
Hayek Pinault and Anderson .Paak and The Free Nationals.
François-Henri Pinault
From left:
Laura Dern,
Deena
Aljuhani
Abdulaziz,
Jared Leto,
Zoe Saldana,
Brie Larson,
Nicky
Rothschild,
Eva Chow,
Regina King,
Sienna Miller BFA.COM
168 VOGUE INDIA JANUARY www.vogue.in
Sunita and
Naresh Kumar
Patricia Hoffman and
Virginie Corteval
MILESTONE
MOMENT
WHAT: Taj Bengal Kolkata
Kishore and celebrated 30 years in hospitality
Rita Bhimani WHERE: Crystal Hall, Taj
Bengal Kolkata
An October evening saw guests come
together to celebrate Taj Bengal
Kolkata’s three decades in hospitality.
In attendance were prominent
members of the business and art
fraternities, along with the consul
generals of the US, France, Italy, Japan
Malika Varma and and Bangladesh. The gala, complete
Manju Bangur with a three-course dinner, cocktails Sanjay and
Minu Budhia
and a performance by local retro band
PopCult, was a night to remember.
Sumangala
and SK Birla Devina Swarup,
Vaibhav Shah and
Parul Swarup
Chandra Manjari and
Shekhar and Vikas Agarwal
Shalini Nopany
www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIAJANUARY 2020 169
REVEALED: READERS’ TRAVEL AWARDS 2019 WINNERS
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DEC-JAN 2019-20 | 150
Chasing the
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WINNING
PHOTO: GREG SWALES. DRESS: RICHARD QUINN. EARRINGS: DEEPA GURNANI.
REPURPOSED MATERIAL USED AS HEADBAND ABU JANI SANDEEP KHOSLA
STREAK
• KATY PERRY GOES
MAXIMAL IN
MAXIMUM CITY
• ANITA DONGRE
TALKS SUSTAINABILITY
• FASHION UPS
ITS ECO GAME
171
Beautyeauty
B & &
t
the beathe beat
With a new love and a fresh perspective,
pop provocateur Katy Perry is ready to
reveal her real self to the world,
finds Megha Mahindru
Photographed by GREG SWALES
Styled by ANAITA SHROFF ADAJANIA
172
Dress, cape; both
Moschino. Shoes,
Christian Louboutin.
Upcycled brooch,
Swapna Mehta
Dress made with repurposed
material, Ronald van der
Kemp. Upcycled headpiece,
Anaita Shroff Adajania
with scrap fabric pieces from
Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla
Top, Versace. Upcycled
vintage patola skirt with
neon polymer detail, Amit
Aggarwal. Upcycled
headpiece, Anaita Shroff
Adajania with scraps from
Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla.
Shoes, Papa Dont Preach.
Bracelets, Raj Mahtani
Couture Jewels
174
Kurla, Mumbai, where we sit for a six-course meal, Perry
continues to philosophise about love and life. “I’ve done a lot
of mental, spiritual and emotional work in the past few
years. The biggest lie we’ve ever been told as artistes is that
we have to stay in pain to create. I don’t want to be in emo-
tional pain my whole life in order to write songs,” she tells
me, as she reaches for the bread and cheese platter.
It’s true, Perry’s bubblegum image doesn’t really spell
suffering artiste. “I like to write songs that really move or
empower people. If you divided my songs, they would be 50
per cent [about] empowerment, 25 per cent party and 25 per
cent romantic. They are heavy on hope and positivity, like
going towards the light. I reject the darkness.”
Spend five minutes with her, and you’ll feel her infectious
positivity take hold. She exhibits the curiosity of an endear-
r, in ing interviewee—with me (“I want to know everything about
the you”), the server (“‘Anuugacchati Pravaha’, am I saying it
riter right?” she asks him about her Devanagari tattoo) or the
ticked off a meet-and-greet with fans, mingled with Bolly- companion goldfish placed on our table (“Hi Roberto, how
wood, glided through interviews with newspapers, television are you feeling?” she pouts). It’s the same energy that makes
channels and radio, and wrapped up a meeting with her mu- a bored five-year-old, carelessly zipping past tables at Botti-
sic label—all belying her red-eye flight. From our 12-hour- cino, freeze with delight as Perry winks at him. Then there
long cover shoot that started at the crack of dawn, she head- are the schoolchildren, almost the same age as Flynn,
ed straight to a charity event marking Prince Charles’s 71st dressed as mini-KatyCats at our shoot.
birthday. “Transcendental meditation,” she shares, is the
secret. “There are so many different forms of meditation I’ve THE KIDS ARE ALRIGHT
done, but nothing supersedes TM. It changed my life.” Any parent will attest that handling a group of children—
In 1967, when the Beatles first met Maharishi Mahesh much less those costumed as elaborate cupcakes and French
Yogi, it paved the way for the West’s obsession with the work- fries in Mumbai’s sweltering humidity—is daunting. Natu-
ings of the mind. Now, half a decade later, David Lynch’s rally, by the time the shot is ready, the children are restless.
mantra has repackaged the Hindu practice for stressed-out, Cue Katy Perry, and the kids are all right. She hugs them,
modern-day professionals and is calming the rich and famous asks their names, their favourite subjects, and even joins her
the world over. “You’re supposed to do it twice a day, but I Lilliputian entourage for an impromptu round of ‘Roar’.
only ever do it once. It’s all about opening your third eye, your “Let’s go around in a circle, like this,” she says, mimicking a
pineal gland, and connecting with the divine. It helps me with train, as she takes charge of her little army. “People were
jet lag, anxiety, mood swings and creativity. Some of the talking to them like they’re adults, and I was like, ‘No, that’s
coolest ideas I’ve had were during meditation.” never going to work,’” shares Perry, when I ask her about
Few would believe that her 2017 disco-pop confections like her knack with kids. “I’ve had a child-like approach my
‘Swish swish’ or her innuendo-wrapped ode to oral sex, ‘Bon whole life—in my career, my music—and that element of
appétit’, came out of a spiritual awakening. But move on to playfulness is what keeps me young.” At DY Patil Stadium,
her 2019 discography, and a sense of maturity prevails. As the audience during her powerful two-hour set doesn’t com-
she runs through a gamut of emotions—from obsession prise girls on their boyfriends’ shoulders but children wav-
(‘365’) to heartbreak (‘Never really over’) to post-breakup ing from their parents’ vantage point.
(‘Small talk’) to breezy love (‘Harleys in Hawaii’)—she turns Capturing Gen-Z, the notorious lot born into technology
from a bionic woman to a leather-clad biker chick. with the attention span of a goldfish, requires skill. “I think
I’m young at heart and they see that. Authenticity is impor-
SECOND LIFE tant to me, and young people—Gen Z, more than anyone—
It’s not to say that Katy Perry 2.0 is any less fun. She may can sniff out frauds.” So, mid-concert, when she admits
no longer be shooting whipped cream off her cone bra, but she’s “sweating in every crack”, fans are in love. Between
she’s comfortable morphing from a chandelier to a cheese- costume changes, when her band starts playing ‘Part of me’
burger at the Met. On other days, she invades public bath- without her, Perry bounces back on stage in her neon
rooms with her band for her #pottyjam series. At home, she green jumpsuit and sneakers to come clean to her
is the dedicated stepmum who has found the balance be- befuddled audience: “I got to tell you the frickin’ truth, guys.
tween the reality and fantasy that pervades her life and I just tried to change my costume and I’m sweating so much,
work. “We do a lot with Flynn [Orlando Bloom’s eight-year- the back of my costume ripped in half!” And there lies
old son]. We go to the movies or to amusement parks… her charm—she’s the celebrity who sounds like a
We’re constantly doing things that are fun,” she says about human, and not a well-coached robot.
this transformation. Perry’s willingness to put it all out there (she once did a
At Botticino, the Italian restaurant at Trident, Bandra 72-hour YouTube livestream, including an unnerving >
176
Dress, Ashish. Necklace,
Raj Mahtani Couture
Jewels. Headpiece,
earrings, hair clips;
all Deepa Gurnani
Dress, Manish Arora.
Headpiece, Jade.
Earrings, Valliyan.
Sequinned dresses
with tutus (on girls), all
Papa Don’t Preach
178
Dress, shoes; both Papa Don’t Preach. Earrings, Prerto. Belt (worn as headband), Anushka Khanna.
Bag, Manish Arora. Sunglasses, Black Eyewear
180
therapy session) has earned her 108 million loyal Twitter and I did not want to get out of bed. In the past, I had been
followers (second only to Barack Obama), and helped her able to overcome it, but this time something happened that
transition from her Betty Boop-meets-Barbie image to a se- made me fall down too many flights of stairs. I had to really
rious musical force capable of capturing a stadium. go on a mental health journey,” she shares.
Living in the hyper-scrutinised world of celebrities pre-
PITCH PERFECT sents its own challenges and vulnerabilities, but Perry has
But the journey has had its share of ups and downs. “I’ve emerged a vocal advocate of mental health. “We talk about
gone to therapy, been through the Hoffman Process, done all our different organs but never talk about out brain,
plant medicine.... And I have a partner who is also all about which keeps us functioning the most,” she notes.
finding a balance—Orlando, who is on a spiritual journey of As fearless and unapologetically outspoken as Perry has
his own. He’s an anchor who holds me down, and he’s very been to speak her mind, the media has been less than forgiv-
real. He’s not the number one fan of Katy Perry, but he’s the ing. “For the press, every few months I turn into ‘Perry, the
number one fan of Katheryn Hudson.” Piñata’. But thankfully, I don’t get my validation from them
Over a few days, I notice that this wide-eyed, gum-chew- anymore,” she says.
ing performer winks a lot—during interviews, the eye ges- She’s often misunderstood; her sartorial quirk has
ture affirms that she and you (the interviewer), are in on the courted controversies like cultural appropriation, while
joke. A tabloid report once mentioned Bloom recalling this her appearance on Sesame Street was labelled ‘too sexy’
particular eye flutter that brought the two together in 2016 for the show. Not everyone gets her, but she continues to
at the Golden Globes after-party. use the voice under her peroxide
The couple share a lot in com- mane (the real hair colour is a
mon. Entertainers living in the pub- “[Orlando’s] “non-eventful squirrel brown”,
lic eye, they’ve both experienced she shares) to represent many
broken marriages, and this evolu- not the number things to many people—a role
tion has only strengthened their model for children, a feminist icon
bond. “Love is different from dat- for women and a crusader for the
ing. You date in your twenties. Love one fan of Katy LGBTQI+ community.
is partnership, friendship, truth Sometimes, she uses her platform
and being an absolute mirror to Perry, but he's for politicking and to steer change.
someone,” she says, fidgeting with During the 2016 US presidential
her flower-shaped engagement the number one campaign, Perry established her po-
ring. “Orlando is like a sage. When sition as Hillary Clinton’s biggest
we first met, he said we would pull fan of Katheryn cheerleader and wrote ‘Chained to
the poison out of each other, and we the rhythm’ as a wake-up call for fel-
really do. It’s exhausting, but we re- Hudson” low Americans to fight the good
ally hold each other accountable. fight. At the 2017 Grammys, when
I’ve never had a partner who was she performed the song, she wore a
willing to go on an emotional and suffragette white pantsuit with the
spiritualjourneylikeOrlando.It’schallenging,becauseyou’re word ‘Persist’ emblazoned on an armband. “If you have a
facing all the things you don’t like about yourself. It’s like a big spotlight and you’re sharing it for good, it’s going to be
never-ending cleanse.” better for everyone,” says the pop star with a purpose, who,
As artistes, they travel the globe, often separately. While as a UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador, has undertaken trips
Perry is in Mumbai, Bloom is in Prague, shooting season two to impoverished parts of Vietnam and Madagascar to advo-
of Carnival Row. Their schedules continually push them to- cate for children’s education and clean water resources. “At
wards chaos, but they find a way out. “It’s always going to be 35, I’ve checked many boxes off my list and I’m now being
a unique situation, but we knew that going into it,” she says. challenged to dream new dreams,” she says. “I want to be
“FaceTime, thank god, has been invented. It’s a relationship- involved in environmental companies, I want to go back to
saver.” And while Perry swears by TM, Bloom is a Buddhist school [psychology and philosophy will be her subjects of
who starts his day at 6am, chanting Nam myoho renge kyo. choice] and I want to influence good people to run for office.”
“I think it’s an amazing way to begin your day by thinking She won’t share details on her wedding yet, but she wants
about something other than yourself,” she says. She too is a big family, and dreams of retiring in a commune with her
incorporating small changes to her routine: “I start my day family and friends. She may not have found the cure to eve-
with gratitude. Every morning, the first thing I do is not look rything in life, but she finally understands the meaning of
for my phone. Sometimes I can avoid it for a minute, some- her tattoo—to go with the flow. “I’ve been in the public eye
times five, but I do try to consciously think about gratitude.” for 12 years and I’ve made many mistakes. I’m human, and
I still want to try,” she says. “I don’t want to be defeated or
A BEAUTIFUL MIND become a recluse. I want to live life. And doing that means
She’s in a good place now, so there’s reason to be thankful. you might occasionally trip, but it’s not about how you fall—
But 2017-18 was her toughest time. “I became depressed it’s about how you get up.” n
181
182
Multicoloured top with silk
cords, top made with scraps,
skirt; both Abu Jani Sandeep
Khosla. Headpiece, Ara
Lumiere. Patchwork teddy
bear, Satya Paul
Hair: Shon Hyungsun Ju /The Wall Group
Makeup: Michael Anthony/ Forward Artists
Photographer’s assistants: Lavoisier Clemente;
Casey Franklin; Ryan Martis
Assistant stylists: Priyanka Kapadia; Naheed Driver
Hair and makeup (for kids): Bhagyashree Vaid
Fashion assistant: Tamra Natisin
Production: Divya Jagwani; Prachiti Parakh; Jay
Modi; Imran Khatri Productions
Set design and props: Pradeep Paul Francis
Location courtesy: Mukesh Mills, Colaba
Anita Dongre at the
House of Anita Dongre
headquarters in Rabale,
with her brother
Mukesh Sawlani and
their adopted dogs
India’s biggest fashion house is
also its most eco-conscious. Rujuta
Vaidya follows Anita Dongre into
her revolutionary headquarters, If we had to define the 2010s, we would call it the decade
where plastic is compostable and of the good girl. Fashion cleaned up its act and, despite many
wrongs, the shift towards making the industry a greener one
small ideas drive big changes became urgent. Though nearly every brand now adheres to
it, back when Dongre started her journey, the term ‘sustain-
able’ didn’t exist. However, a strong sense of conscientious-
Photographed by DOLLY DEVI ness always powered her actions: “I put my personal phi-
losophy into my work.”
But not everyone thought the same. “When I started out
or a long time, the idea of sustainable fash- as a designer working in export houses, nearly 30 years ago,
ion, or pretty much anything that rallied to I hated the conditions of the factories I visited. I vowed that
preserve Mother Nature, was met with an when I had one of my own, it wouldn’t be anything like that.
eye-roll—the environment wasn’t some- Everyone does beautiful stores, but no one wants a beautiful
thing that warranted much thought. After back-end. I did.” Neither sentimental, nor dramatising her
all, in an age of excess, where everything past, Dongre is the kind of businesswoman who sees what’s
could be delivered to your doorstep, who ahead. Way ahead. Going from an export house designer to
cared? Until a few years ago, when something snapped. Cli- starting her own label and becoming India’s largest success
mate change was no longer a doomsday theory, but a real story did not happen overnight.
progression towards the apocalypse. Children started skip-
ping school to remind adults of the damage. Investment man- HOME BASE
agement companies cared about supporting businesses with The headquarters of the House of Anita Dongre (HOAD) is
environmental, social and corporate governance impacts. situated in Rabale, Navi Mumbai, and it stands apart from
Sunday brunches were replaced by beach clean-ups. People the many grey buildings surrounding it. For starters, there
gave up meat. Eco-anxiety became real. are window boxes involved. The workforce is divided into
I ask Anita Dongre, the force behind India’s largest fash- four Game Of Thrones-themed houses that compete with
ion house, a woman committed to building a sustainable each other in various activities. There’s a book club, a run-
brand from day one, if she thinks we’ll emerge alive in ten ning club, a cricket championship and a gola cart. A compost
years’ time. Sitting in her hair and makeup chair, jet- pit fuels a biogas plant that is used to cook meals for 650
lagged, in a shirt dress she designed four years ago, she employees. Each floor of the headquarters has an outdoor
sighs in the affirmative. working area. “Nearly every new employee wants to work >
185
Clockwise from top left: A rack of Dongre’s
latest collection in the greenery of HOAD’s
headquarters in Rabale, Navi Mumbai;
details of a lehenga; Dongre’s wall of awards
and accolades; sampling for new prints; the
waiting area; Dongre supervising embroidery
of an Ahimsa silk lehenga; women at work;
details of an embroidery swatch
Photographer’s agency: Feat. Artists
Hair and makeup: Guia Bianchi/
Anima Creative Management
Art direction: Snigdha Kulkarni
Production: Jay Modi
186
there when they are not in the sampling unit,” she says. “Entire countries were consumed by extreme materialism
Who wouldn’t? There are swings and open tables overlook- and rapid growth without realising their impact on the envi-
ing the green hills of Navi Mumbai. It’s hard to believe ronment. With so much wealth, there came a disregard for
you’re only 40 minutes away from one of India’s most what was being bought. We [Indians] were never like that,”
polluted cities. she muses. “All balance sheets should account for what com-
The cavity walls of the factory are constructed in a man- panies have done for the environment and not just the profi t.
ner that keeps out the heat, thus eliminating the need to You can’t just be lauded for the material wealth you create.
turn on the air conditioners. The water in the factory is re- What is the community wealth you are generating?”
cycled. An on-ground guest house is open to employees for HOAD is a registered member of the Sustainable Ap-
resting purposes. Dongre even encourages her workers to parel Coalition (SAC) and follows the HIGG Index. “Every
bring along their loved ones. “Why shouldn’t they come and year we set goals for ourselves, which we periodically re-
see where their family works? Young mothers are welcome view,” Dongre explains. “The plan is to move our produc-
to bring their kids to the factory if needed.” The familial tion from regular vendors to those that are certifi ed as sus-
spirit extends to furry friends too—her brother Mukesh tainable. All the cotton we use is from Better Cotton [the
Sawlani, the managing director of HOAD, feels strongly for largest cotton sustainability programme across the globe].”
strays and has adopted eight puppies including Cookie, a Eva Kruse, CEO and president of Global Fashion Agenda,
train accident survivor. called her a social entrepreneur. Dongre’s Grassroot line em-
Dongre is a Bandra native but lives in ploys women from the Self Employed
her airy, sunlit home in Kharghar with Women’s Association (SEWA) in Guja-
uct design, merchandising and innova- “Everyone rat. Her couture line generates jobs in
her sister Meena Sehra, president - prod-
the thousands. She fi rmly believes that
tion, during the work week and drives an India can lead the charge in showing the
MPV. Commuting to town in a luxury does beautiful world how to reverse the damage caused
car could be a routine for her, but she to the planet. “In India, to be sustainable
won’t have it. More businesswoman stores, but no comes naturally. We were never an in-
than designer, with a firm head on her human culture. Our farm animals were
shoulders, her profits have only climbed one wants a our pets. We were a land of such rich cul-
thanks to the oldest and simplest trick in ture...of Bishnoi villagers who sacrifi ced
the book: wake up, show up, repeat. You themselves to save trees.” However, sav-
can’t distract Dongre with cars or par- beautiful back- ing the world today is impossible with-
ties. She functions on a routine. A school out innovation and technology. Dongre
night is a school night, no matter what. end. I did” has a dedicated sustainability resource
Such is her work ethic that senior de- in Sangita Rohira (president – sourcing
signers in the fraternity often reach out and production), although the load is
to her for advice. shared and everyone has inputs. “All
ideas are welcome. We are not perfect, but every little change
INTO THE FUTURE makes me happy.”
Today, Anita Dongre runs five brands: Anita Dongre, the Currently, she is excited about introducing biodegradable
couture-focused label; AND does workwear; Global Desi is plastic bags in packaging, after a lot of experimentation.
an accessible fusion-wear line; Grassroot, a wholly sustain- (For the fi rst lot, she fi nalised a kind that degrades after a
able craft-focused line that empowers women workers in year.) “You need to preserve expensive clothes in protective
rural areas; and Pinkcity, a jewellery line. packaging, but there is a way around it. Yes, these bags are
Mid-interview, Dongre has to step out to sign an important more expensive than the ones available in the market, but
deal. She remains tight-lipped; we’ll hear about it in the com- you can’t be penny wise and pound foolish with cost-cut-
ing months. Delegation, trust and keeping her ear to the ting.” Another introduction is wedding lehengas in Ahimsa
ground have got her this far. Last year, the company an- silk (non-violent silk harvesting). The price point for the le-
nounced a turnover of 700 crore. I ask her how she does it. hengas will differ from the existing range, but Dongre has
“You show up every day and do your job,” she says while mak- already had requests from brides.
ing a case for persistent hard work (Dongre made it to Forbes What she is most hopeful for is the youth. “The next gen-
Asia’s Power Businesswomen list (2019) for the fi rst time in eration is very conscious. They are taking climate change
October.) “Everyone wants to make it big, but you can’t com- seriously and doing something about it. Even the trend of
promise your principles to do it.” A simple example is her everyone giving up meat—these small things will eventu-
refusal to support leather. “I have never carried a leather ally make an impact,” she says. “Consumers need to be edu-
bag, not when I was young and it was trendy, not now cated. Right now, people have turned their attention to-
when you need to be seen with one from a brand that proves wards sustainable brands because they think it is
you’ve arrived.” ‘fashionable’, and I am okay with that. Only when we make
Musing on the one topic she is interviewed on the most, the fast fashion uncool will it really hit hard. That change needs
designer strongly believes that the concept of sustainability to come from within, but at this point, I will welcome a con-
came to us from the West after years of rampant unheeding. sumer who has converted for a passing trend.” ■
187
NATURALLY DYED
Taking the boring out of the blue, these designers interpret indigo in challenging and interesting ways
On Priya: Silk slip dress, péro. Fanny pack, Moral Science. Embroidered boots, Saroj Jalan. On Aarzoo: Bandhani
slip dress, bandhani shirt (worn around waist); both 11.11/eleven eleven. Choker, stacked bangles; both Ritika
Sachdeva. Rubber boots, Melissa. On Akash: Handloom suit, Sustain by Good Earth. Upcycled plastic backpack,
péro. Spiked leather shoes, Jeetinder Sandhu. Upcycled fabric beads, I was a Sari. On Anugraha: Upcycled woven
jumper, denim skirt; both Naushad Ali. Embroidered boots, Saroj Jalan. Metal and cord necklace, wicker bag; both
Rara Avis. Shell pompoms (used as bag strap), Ritika Sachdeva. On Tarun: Cotton shirt, skinny jeans; both Rajesh
Pratap Singh. Silk kaftan, Anita Dongre. Metal chain shoes, Jeetinder Sandhu. Vegan cork rings, Foret Cork
INDIGO
CHILDREN
In the wake of the climate emergency, a new crop of conscious designers is
taking centre stage. Across natural dyes, upcycling, fair trade and handloom
traditions, their luxuries are made by hand and come directly from the earth.
The core of their belief? Putting the planet first
Photographed by JUSTIN POLKEY Styled by DANIEL FRANKLIN
189
190
TIED TO THE EARTH
New rules of luxury apply as hand-spun vegan silks like eri and cellulose-based engineered textiles like Lyocell come out on top
On Anugraha: Tencel dress, Rajesh Pratap Singh. Handloom silk apron and embroidered belt; both Vaishali S. Silver shell
earrings, Ritika Sachdeva. Embroidered boots, Saroj Jalan. On Tarun: Eri silk suit, Ura Maku. Cord work blouse, Vaishali S. Shell
beaded jute necklace, En Inde. Metal chain shoes, Jeetinder Sandhu. Vegan cork rings, Foret Cork
A SOFT TOUCH
The only Sunday best we need—fair trade organic cotton, in its humblest form
Organic cotton tunic with buttons, Button Masala. Organic cotton bloomers, Ekà. Rubber boots, Melissa
192
CUT FROM THE SAME CLOTH
With intricate handwork and larger-than-life silhouettes,
patchwork takes on couture
Silk patchwork dress, Viktor & Rolf. Wooden platform
shoes, Urvashi Kaur. Straw hat, Ura Maku
MADE WITH LOVE, BY HAND
Handloom traditions cross over to the umbrella of modern interpretations, starting with the six-yard staple
Naturally dyed khadi sari, Anavila. Silver and wood bangles, Ritika Sachdeva. Khadi patchwork sari (used as canopy), Naushad Ali
APPLIED ART
Let reclaimed ocean plastic, upcycled into sinuous dresses, spearhead the cause of the clean-up
Handwoven wool embellished in reclaimed fishnet cording dress, Akhl Studio
195
LAY OF THE LAND
Reinventing, rethinking, redoing—upcycling leads the way for new fashion
On Tarun: Patchwork shirt, Lota. Patchwork cotton shots, Quod. Upcycled jacket, Rajesh Pratap Singh. DIY safety pin socks,
metal chain shoes; both Jeetinder Sandhu. Straw hat, Rara Avis. On Priya: Printed dress, pants; both Yavi. Crochet dress, Salt
Skin. Handwoven upcycled jacket, Naushad Ali. Metal and cord necklace, En Inde. Wooden bangles, Ritika Sachdeva.
On Akash: Straw vest, cord necklace; both Rara Avis. Patchwork appliqué jeans, Huemn. Studded shoes, Jeetinder Sandhu. On
Aarzoo: Patchwork dress, Rashmi Varma. Cotton petticoat, Ekà. Patchwork kimono (worn around waist), Naushad Ali. Metal
bangles, Ritika Sachdeva. Rubber boots, Melissa On Anugraha: Cotton bib, Ekà. Upcycled dress. Fawn by Nikhil D. Silk scarf
(worn as bag strap), I was a Sari. Wicker bag, Rara Avis. Embroidered boots, Saroj Jalan
196
Photographer’s agency: Inega
Hair and makeup: Mitesh Rajani/Feat. Artists
Models: Priya J, Anugraha, Tarun/Feat.
Artists; Aarzoo/Inega, Akash
Production: Prachiti Parakh; Jay Modi
Special thanks: Nikhil Bhanushali
Location courtesy: Nature’s Grove
Farm Resort, Pawna
INDIA
DEC E M BE R 2019 `150
LUCKY
JIM
JIM SARBH
PHOTOGRAPHED BY BIKRAMJIT BOSE
Reduce
MY BEAUTIFUL LIFE
living
green
While it’s still a work in
progress, Mira Kapoor
has made a mindful effort
to pepper her lifestyle
and that of her children
with sustainable choices.
By Aditi Bhimjyani
ERRIKOS ANDREOU
EDITED BY SNEHA MANKANI www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA JANUARY 2020 199
Mira Kapoor has become increasingly the products that suit my ideology,” brands and small businesses can sure-
conscious and vocal about the social she says. As a natural-born non-chem- ly dedicate some effort to limit the ar-
and ecological footprint of her choices ical freak, Kapoor (who is yet to have bitrary use of resources.” Kapoor is yet
when it comes to beauty, fashion and her fi rst formal facial) grew up using to find a beauty company with sustain-
health. The 25-year-old star wife and lemon and orange peels, sandalwood, able packaging that pleases her
mother of two fi rst made her views rose water, avocado leftovers, raw (though Purearth comes close).
though Purearth comes close
known on Instagram, critiquing the milk, and a yoghurt-honey-besan
copious volume of her online ship- mask, mixing things into her own ON PASSING THE MANTLE
ment’s packaging waste. Considering three-step cleansing process as the “I can see how making changes at 25 is
her two million-plus followers, the post mood arose. Cold-pressed almond oil, tough, which is why I am trying to in-
garnered much interest. coconut oil and her Ayurvedic doctor’s culcate a sustainable lifestyle in my
“I am not into fashion labels or ex- concoctions are still her go-tos. kids,” she says. Their habits are cen-
pensive brands. I usually shop when Her absolute favourite thing is tred on local practices such as hair oil
I travel. I’ve switched so many sizes Neal’s Yard Wild Rose Beauty Balm, every Friday night, a cup of kadha,
in the last three years that I’m glad one of those multipurpose organic a shot of amla juice—remedies she
I’ve made simple choices,” says Ka- products meant for all skin types, with hopes will stay with them. Her kids eat
poor, as she lets Vogue in on her no EDTA, mineral oils, parabens, syn- dal-roti-sabzi and oats every day.
mindful lifestyle. thetic fragrance or colour, or silicones. Treats at the restaurant are dosas or
“I have to be able to connect with a mac and cheese. If they want yoghurt
SUSTAINABLE X brand to be able to use it, and Neal’s and theplas for a meal, Kapoor makes
ACCOUNTABLE Yard’s values align with mine,” she sure the theplas contain everything—
Kapoor has an Oxford Dictionary defi - says. “This is probably what the future from dal to boiled vegetables and me-
nition of what sustainability means to of sustainable beauty should look like,” thi. She happily uses hand-me-downs
her. “It is anything—a product, she laughs, “one bottle for all your for her kids and is conscious about us-
thought, idea, action, lifestyle or busi- needs.” ing products that can be replenished
ness—that can stand the test of time, within a day’s notice.
and have a positive impact on the pre- REDUCE, REUSE,
sent and future,” she says. RECYCLE EAT CLEAN, LIVE
Reminiscing about the time when “Somebody is always try- CLEAN
email forwards were a big rage, she ing to sell us what we Kapoor doesn’t believe in
says, “I was reading about how we don’t have but want to keto or going carb-free.
should buy Indian brands to give have,” she sighs. Matte is As a vegetarian and
back to our economy. It made a great out, glossy is in. The jade a foodie, Thai, Chinese,
impact on me.” Walking out of her roller, shampoo-condition- and cheesy pizzas are her
house that day to pick up a shower gel er-plus-masque you biggest weaknesses. “It
made by an Indian brand was should have.... I suffer was last year that I started
more than just about reducing her from major online shop- noticing hair loss and fl uc-
carbon footprint. ping fatigue,” she admits. tuating vitamin levels. I
While there is a charm had to become more re-
WHEN IT’S SIMPLE, to small enterprises be- sponsible about my body
NATURAL, GREEN coming accessible without after two pregnancies.”
She loves checking out indie brands and the capital of a brick-and- Cardio and long walks on
new launches. Her latest obsessions in- mortar, it comes with the beach soon gave way
clude a smelly sea buckthorn oil and a huge environmental lia- to Pilates with a mix of
distinctly non-creamy lotion from Pu- bility. Think of that one Pūrearth HIIT. A glass of coconut
from Pu-
Wild Seaberry
rearth, a small-batch, hand-bottled, ze- lip gloss that comes in Supercritical Oil water with moringa and
ro-waste, preservative-free line of beau- a box, is bubble-wrapped Neal’s Yard Wild spirulina powder along
ty products created by locals from and encased in a Rose Beauty Balm with a bowl of poha with
Ladakh and Himachal Pradesh. poly bag. “Why can’t Forest Essentials sesame and fl ax seeds are
Sanjeevani
“I also love that Forest Essentials big companies, especially Beauty Elixir her daily breakfast sta-
has revolutionised Ayurveda and made those with a large social ples. “I am mindful of
it accessible,” she says. media presence, offer re- what I eat as it shows on
verse logistics to collect wrappings and my face and hair,” she says. “Only
THE LONG TERM FIX incentivise the end-user with, say, loy- then will I need fewer products, and ERRIKOS ANDREOU
“I have fi nally managed to fi gure out alty points?” she asks. “Online forums thereby continue to want and waste
what I like, what works for me and that support and empower so many less.” A little like the circle of life. ■
200 VOGUE INDIA JANUARY www.vogue.in