Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)

169



















NATURAL WONDERS











































MAIN IMAGE Stream running between the rhyolite hills of remote
Landmannalaugar BELOW (left to right) Lava following an eruption
at Surtsey; Strokkur erupting in the Geysir area

4 MORE GEOTHERMAL SITES
TO RIVAL YELLOWSTONE

SOL DE MAÑANA, BOLIVIA This geothermal field sits at an
elevation of nearly 16,400 ft (5,000 m), in one of the wildest
landscapes on earth. Nearby, you’ll find vast salt flats, steaming
volcanoes, and colorful, flamingo-filled lagoons.
TONGARIRO NATIONAL PARK, NEW ZEALAND Head to
this park if you’re looking for superb hiking and extensive
geothermal features. The popular Tongariro Crossing takes
hikers through an amazing volcanic landscape. Nearby
Rotorua offers a token geyser field.
KAMCHATKA PENINSULA, RUSSIA A visit to this wild and
ragged hard-to-reach corner of the fiery Pacific Rim may well
prove to be the trip of a lifetime. It is best accessed by
organized tour (see also p215).

BEPPU, JAPAN A popular Japanese resort on the island of
Kyushu, Beppu is for those who appreciate tamed geysers and
hot springs with a dose of carnival atmosphere.







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NATURAL WONDERS Croatia’s FORGET THE GREEK




ISLANDS?


THE BUILD-UP There are approximately 1,400
Greek islands, of which only 227 are inhabited.
They occupy a huge area of the Ionian and

to the coast of Turkey. Many are graced by fine,
Islands Aegean seas, stretching from Greece all the way
sandy beaches and sun through the year.
THE LETDOWN Several million tourists are
brought each year by monster ferries, cheap
flights, and package holidays. Uncontrolled
vs the Greek Islands building legislation in the past means
destination resorts now litter the islands. Any
authentic local economy or lifestyle has
disappeared from most islands. Tourism is the
Combining breathtaking beauty and incredible diversity, Croatia’s islands surpass only game in town, transforming the islands
those of Greece for unspoiled natural splendor – and they’re also far more accessible into theme parks.
GOING ANYWAY? Avoid the peak months of
late-June, July, and August. Don’t choose an
island with an airport – it makes getting there
NEED TO KNOW tides; secret Solta’s dense woods flavored with harder, but also means that the island will not
mulberry, olives, and rosemary; and Hvar, whose have been developed for the tourist market.
LOCATION The islands busy riviera nightclubs and restaurants are
are situated in the central 4-07&/*" ;BHSFC Instead, take a ferry from Piraeus, near Athens.
part of the Adriatic Sea $30"5*" patronized by the beautiful, the rich, and the
just off Croatia’s coast tanned. But there’s a whole lot more to Venetian-
POPULATION flavored Hvar than cool nightlife. The island’s
4.5 million #04/*"
$30"5*" 4 )&3;&(07*/" interior, too, buzzes by day – from the hives tended
NUMBER OF ISLANDS *4-"/%4
1,085 but only 47 are inhabited 4QMJU by small farmhouses, the precious boxes loaded
DAYTIME TEMPERATURES "ESJBUJD with delicious lavender-flower honey. And off the
4F B
Jan: 54°F (12°C); Apr: 63°F (17°C); beaten track, you’ll find perfect, deserted bays,
Jul: 84°F (29°C); Oct: 70°F (21°C) %VCSPWOJL
inlets, and even a quiet fishing village.
There’s a vast choice of islands that you can
Forming a unique archipelago over 180 miles visit, but don’t miss Vis. Once the base for Allied ABOVE Hordes of tourists soaking up the sun at a crowded
(300 km) long, Croatia’s 1,000 or so islands and forces during World War II, the craggy island with beach in Malia, Crete
islets are spattered like paint along the length of fabulous views, quaffable wine, and unspoiled seas
the country’s coastline. It’s as though an artist has was closed to visitors until 1989 due to its status as
dipped a brush deep into greens and browns and a strategically important spot. It is dotted with
flicked it at the cobalt-blue canvas of the Adriatic. clumps of pines and carob trees among a low
Unlike the Greek Islands, many of which are scrub strewn with many varieties of herbs, cloaking
blighted by eyesore tourist resorts, Croatia’s best the island in an invisible fragrant cloud. This PRACTICAL INFORMATION
and most unspoiled islands are easily accessible magical perfume should be enough to convince
Getting There and Around Where to Stay
from the mainland without long and expensive you of the superiority of the Croatian Islands to the
Split has an airport and is the Hotel San Giorgio on Vis (www.
ferry trips. The communities benefit from tourism, Greek. If not, a short boat ride to the Blue Cave, best point of entry for the islands hotelsangiorgiovis.com), or
but at the same time continue to carry on with suffused with iridescent blue light at midday, a of Brac, Solta, Hvar, and Vis. Hvar’s luxury Riva Hotel (www.
their traditional island life. Some of the highlights hike through Greek and Roman ruins, visits to Mljet is most easily accessible slh.com/rivahotel).
include beautiful Brac, with its magical, curving spit sleepy fishing villages, and dining in some of the from Dubrovnik, but it is also a When to Go
good entry point for the other
of golden sand, Zlatni Rat, which moves with the country’s best restaurants should clinch the deal. As with all of Europe, it’s best if
islands as well.
Farther south, towards Dubrovnik, get away you can avoid the peak summer
Where to Eat months (Jul-Aug), when tourist
from the mainland crowds on Mljet, a national park
Generally, the food available on and yacht traffic increases.
with karst caves, emerald-green saltwater lakes, the islands is simple fare such as
and the tiny Sveta Marija monastery on an island baked or grilled fish, crab, Budget per Day for Two
US$350 should be enough if you
within an island. On this green island, ancient lobster, octopus, and grilled stay in the smarter hotels and
Aleppo pines and oaks ring with birdsong and meat. However, Hvar and Vis dine in quality restaurants.
islands have some select
provide shelter for mongooses, an exotic import Otherwise, if you prefer the
restaurants offering excellent
brought from India to control the snake population food. One of the best places to more standard accommodations
and who were then reluctant to leave. The quieter dine on Vis is Jastozera (www. and simple konobas, US$200
eastern end of the island is perfect for exploring on jastozera.com), a konoba should be sufficient.
foot or by bike and is home to some of Croatia’s (tavern) decorated with lobster Websites
pots and fishing paraphernalia. www.croatia.hr
rare sandy beaches. If you can, stay overnight –
Lobster rules here. www.croatiafortravellers.co.uk
ABOVE Zlatni Rat, the golden spit of sand, slicing the Adriatic at Brac you’ll feel the same way as the mongooses.





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NATURAL WONDERS











































MAIN IMAGE Monastery and secluded beach at Bol on Brac island
BELOW (left to right) Couple inside the Blue Grotto Cave near Vis
island; diners on the main square of Hvar

4 MORE ISLAND GROUPS TO
RIVAL THE GREEK ISLANDS

AEOLIAN ISLANDS, ITALY These seven volcanic outcrops
south of Sicily feature black-sand beaches, smoking craters, and
hot mud baths. Visit the smaller islands to avoid peak-season
crowds. And there’s the chance that Stromboli will blow its top.
STOCKHOLM ARCHIPELAGO, SWEDEN Just pick up an
Island Hopper card and enjoy this pristine environment and
extraordinary natural spectacle. The pace of life is slower on
the islands, and involves cycling, hiking, and kayaking.
AZORES, PORTUGAL Europe’s most western outpost has nine
islands with landscapes of rocky valleys studded with blue-
green lakes and cloaked in lush vegetation. Famous for their
wildlife, the islands are good for whale- and dolphin-watching.
FIJI, SOUTH PACIFIC Over 300 islands and islets form a
paradise of palm-fringed beaches, idyllic lagoons, and Robinson
Crusoe landscapes. You can go scuba diving, windsurfing, or
kayaking – or just lie in a hammock in the shade.







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NATURAL WONDERS




































































MAIN IMAGE Magnificent Iguaçu from above BELOW (left to right)
Jet boats heading to the foot of the mighty cascades; walkway guiding
visitors into the heart of the falls; brightly colored toco toucan






























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Iguaçu Falls NATURAL WONDERS







vs Niagara Falls





With an amazing 275 cascades in an unspoiled tropical rain forest setting, Iguaçu Falls is a
breathtaking alternative to its famous North American rival, Niagara




While Niagara reaches a modest height of 174 ft
NEED TO KNOW
(53 m), many of Iguaçu’s falls exceed 197 ft (60 m),
LOCATION Iguaçu Falls sits on the with the highest cascade of all standing at a lofty
Brazil–Argentina border and is
660 miles (1,070 km) north of # 3";*- 269 ft (82 m). And the sheer volume of water
Buenos Aires and 730 miles 1"3"(6":
3JP EF +BOFJSP tumbling over the precipice at Iguaçu is usually
(1,180 km) southwest of Rio "TDVODJØO
*(6"±6 4BP 1BVMP about three times that of its North American rival.
MAXIMUM HEIGHT
$VSJUJCB
269 ft (82 m) 1PTBEBT But it’s not just the size of the cataracts at Iguaçu
"3(&/5*/"
DAYTIME that is compelling. The sheer number of cascades
TEMPERATURES "UMBOUJD means that a trip to the falls offers constantly
Jan: 79°F (26°C); Apr: 72°F (22°C); 636(6": 0DFBO
Jul: 61°F (16°C); Oct: 72°F (22°C) #VFOPT varying vistas and dramatic perspectives on the
"JSFT
great torrents of water. Nowhere is this more
apparent than around the celebrated Garganta
“Poor Niagara!” exclaimed First Lady Eleanor del Diablo, a staggering U-shaped formation
Roosevelt on first seeing Iguaçu Falls, and few measuring 765 yards (700 m) long and 492 ft
subsequent visitors to one of South America’s most (150 m) wide. Standing beside this monumental ABOVE Ring-tailed coatis balancing on branches in the rain forest
stunning natural marvels have found any reason to cascade, the spectator is surrounded by roaring surrounding Iguaçu Falls
disagree with her. Niagara is impressive, but Iguaçu cataracts throwing plumes of spray up to almost
is unforgettable. Widely considered to be the twice the height of the waterfall, while boat them. The UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Parque
planet’s finest set of waterfalls, Iguaçu comprises a trips to the lovely Isla San Martín, in the middle Nacional Iguazú in Argentina and Parque Nacional
complex system of no less than 275 cascades of the river, offer more majestic views. do Iguaçu in Brazil provide refuge for a wealth of
spanning a 2-mile (3-km) stretch of the Iguaçu The experience of the falls is immeasurably fauna, from woodpeckers, toucans, and caciques to
River, on the border between Brazil and Argentina. enhanced by the tropical rain forest that envelops capuchin monkeys and coatis, as well as more than
2,000 species of flora – it’s all a far cry from the
high-rise hotels and casinos of Niagara.
FORGET NIAGARA?
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
THE BUILD-UP Ask someone to name a famous
waterfall and nine times out of ten the answer will be Getting There and Around excellent cheap meat dishes
Niagara. As one of America’s most celebrated natural The main town in the area is the under the direction of its
Brazilian city of Foz do Iguaçu, charismatic gaucho owner.
wonders, Niagara has lodged firmly in the popular
which has regular air connections
imagination. People have dived into the falls, ridden Where to Stay
with Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo.
over them in barrels and walked tightropes across There are many hotels on both
Puerto Iguazú, on the Argentinian
them, and they have appeared in countless television sides of the border. The most
side, has air connections with appealing option is the old-
programs and Hollywood films. Each year the falls ABOVE Hordes of tourists packed onto a viewing deck at the Buenos Aires. Both towns are also
attract astonishing numbers of tourists. Horseshoe Falls, Niagara served by bus from Rio de Janeiro fashioned Hotel das Cataratas
(www.hoteldascataratas.com), in
and Buenos Aires. Local buses Brazil’s Parque Nacional do Iguaçu.
THE LETDOWN Niagara might be spectacular, but it is far from being the world’s largest – or most memorable make the 12-mile (20-km) trip
When to Go
– waterfall. Although the falls are impressively wide, there are at least a dozen broader and more powerful from the two towns to the falls, Visit from March to November,
cataracts elsewhere in America and Africa. What’s more, for those looking to commune with nature, Niagara is and there are plenty of local when temperatures are cooler
not the place to be. The recent rash of development has created such huge changes to the flow of air that many tours available. and skies clearer.
of the viewing areas are now obscured by mist. Where to Eat
The best restaurants are found Budget per Day for Two
on the Brazilian side. Try the US$200 including travel,
GOING ANYWAY? Although you can’t escape the crowds at Niagara, you are at least guaranteed spectacular
Recanto Gaúcho (www. accommodations, and food.
views by taking the famous “Maid of the Mist” boat trip to the base of the falls, which brings you as close to the
recantogaucho.com), near the Website
cataracts as possible, short of actually diving over them. Just don’t forget to bring your raingear.
park entrance, which serves up www.cataratasdoiguacu.com.br



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174 6 MORE WATERFALLS TO RIVAL NIAGARA


NATURAL WONDERS



































Glorious Angel Falls cutting through the forested mountainside,
Canaima National Park, Venezuela
Angel Falls Visitors watching the torrential Dettifoss Falls as it crashes over the
canyon side, Jökulsárgljúfur National Park, Iceland
The four cascades that make up Jog Falls, Karnataka State, India
Jog Falls
NEED TO KNOW Dettifoss Falls
LOCATION Angel Falls is $BSJCCFBO 4 FB
450 miles (725 km) southeast NEED TO KNOW
of the Venezuelan capital, $BSBDBT NEED TO KNOW
Caracas, in Canaima LOCATION Dettifoss Falls (SFFOMBOE
4BO 7&/&;6&-" 4FB
National Park $SJTUØCBM lies in Jökulsárgljúfur National
$JVEBE LOCATION Jog Falls is located in
MAXIMUM HEIGHT #PMÓWBS Karnataka State, southern India, Park in northeast Iceland, near )VTBWJL
to Mývatn Lake
3,212 ft (979 m) "/(&- about 205 miles (330 km) 1",*45"/ %FMIJ /&1"- "LVSFZSJ
'"--4
$0-0.#*" northwest of Bangalore MAXIMUM HEIGHT %&55*'044
DAYTIME */%*" 144 ft (44 m) '"--4
TEMPERATURES MAXIMUM HEIGHT ,PMLBUB *$&- "/%
Jan: 81°F (27°C); Apr: 84°F #3";*- 830 ft (253 m) .VNCBJ DAYTIME
(29°C); Jul: 81°F (27°C); Oct: 83°F (28°C) DAYTIME #BZ PG TEMPERATURES 3FZLKBWÓL
"SBCJBO #FOHBM Jan: 28°F (-2°C); Apr: 32°F
TEMPERATURES 4FB +0( '"--4
Jan: 79°F (26°C); Apr: 84°F #BOHBMPSF (0°C); Jul: 46°F (8°C); /PSUI "UMBOUJD 0DFBO
(29°C); Jul: 81°F (27°C); Oct: 37°F (3°C)
Tumbling in a single, delicate cascade that is almost Oct: 83°F (28°C)
43* -"/,"
half-a-mile (1 km) from top to bottom, Angel Falls
is far and away the world’s tallest waterfall, and a Situated in a remote area of northeast Iceland,
staggering 15 times the height of Niagara. It is so The grandest waterfall in Asia is hidden away in a almost 200 miles (320 km) from Reykjavík,
high, in fact, that much of the water turns to mist remote forest setting among the craggy hills of Dettifoss Falls is nature at its wildest and most
before reaching the bottom. It’s not just the the Western Ghats. Here, the Sharavati River elemental. A great sheet of foaming water
waterfall’s size that is impressive, but the setting, tumbles over an impressively high and wide plummets dramatically into an enormous canyon,
too. The water plunges over the edge of a precipice in four cascades – the Raja (king), Rani surrounded by a volcanic landscape of bleak
majestic, sheer-sided table mountain, known as (queen), rocket, and roarer. Although a large basalt plains, where eruptions continued until as
Auyan-tepui (meaning “Devil’s Mountain”), which hydroelectric power station upriver has reduced recently as 1984. This majestic waterfall sits on
rises up out of the lush Venezuelan jungle. Here the volume of water, the falls remain a dramatic the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river, which is fed by water
you’ll find giant anteaters, porcupines, three-toed sight, especially during, and immediately after, from Iceland’s largest glacier, the Vatnajökull
sloths, jaguars, tapirs, and poison arrow frogs. the monsoon season. The unspoiled surrounding icefield, and boasts a staggering average flow of
landscape is memorable at any time of year. 7,060 cubic ft (200 cubic m) per second, making
it the most powerful river in Europe.
Practical Information
Getting There Visitors must fly from Caracas or Ciudad Bolívar to the village Practical Information
of Canaima, which is 30 miles (50 km) from the falls. There’s no road Getting There The easiest route to the falls is to fly to Mumbai and catch Practical Information
access from here to the falls: you can get to them either on a canoe trip the Konkan Railway (or a bus) south along the coast towards Mangalore, Getting There Fly to Reykjavík, then take a bus or internal flight to Akureyri
(although this is only possible from June to November or December) or on alighting at Honavar, from where it’s a 2½-hour bus ride. The journey from (there are also occasional direct international flights to Akureyri). Travel by
a 40-minute flight for an aerial view. Bangalore is much more complicated. bus or car from here to Mývatn, and then on to Dettifoss by car.
When to Go Visit at the end of the rainy season in early December, when When to Go Visit the falls any time from October to January, just after the When to Go Visit between May and August. Temperatures can be bone-
skies are clear and the falls are at their most spectacular. monsoons when there’s plenty of water in the river. crunchingly cold during the rest of the year.
Website www.salto-angel.com Website www.tourism-of-india.com/karnataka-tour/jog-falls-tour.html Website www.icelandvisitor.com







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NATURAL WONDERS


















The thundering cascades of Kaieteur Falls shrouded in spray,
Kaieteur National Park, Guyana
Dramatic Yosemite Falls plunging down the cliffs in Yosemite National
Park, California, USA Kaieteur Falls Slender Tugela Falls gracefully bisecting the mountainside, Royal
Natal National Park, South Africa
Yosemite Falls

NEED TO KNOW Tugela Falls
NEED TO KNOW "UMBOUJD
LOCATION Kaieteur Falls 0DFBO
lies in Kaieteur National Park, 4QSJOH NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION Yosemite Falls 7&/&;6&-" (BSEFO
is found in Yosemite National $ "/"%" and is 145 miles (230 km) (FPSHFUPXO
southwest of the Guyanan LOCATION Tugela Falls is #0548"/"
Park in California, USA
capital, Georgetown -JOEFO found in Royal Natal National
MAXIMUM 4BO ,"*&5&63 Park, in the KwaZulu-Natal /".*#*" +PIBOOFTCVSH
HEIGHT 'SBODJTDP :04&.*5& /FX :PSL MAXIMUM HEIGHT '"--4 Province of South Africa
2,425 ft (739 m) '"--4 8BTIJOHUPO % $ 825 ft (250 m) 463*/".& MAXIMUM 56(&-" '"--4
DAYTIME -PT "OHFMFT 6 4 " DAYTIME (6:"/" HEIGHT 3,107 ft (947 m)
TEMPERATURES TEMPERATURES DAYTIME #MPFNGPOUFJO %VSCBO
Jan: 37°F (3°C); Apr: 50°F Jan: 79°F (26°C); Apr: 81°F TEMPERATURES 4065) "'3*$"
(10°C); Jul: 75°F (24°C); .&9*$0 (VMG PG (27°C); Jul: 81°F (27°C); Oct: 82°F (28°C) #3";*- Jan: 73°F (23°C); Apr: 61°F
.FYJDP
Oct: 55°F (13°C) $BQF 5PXO
(16°C); Jul: 48°F (9°C);
Oct: 64°F (18°C)
Kaieteur Falls is buried deep in the dense tropical
The tallest waterfall in North America – and the jungles of central Guyana and, like Iguaçu, is
seventh highest in the world – Yosemite Falls is memorable for its stupendous scale. The falls The highest falls in Africa and the second highest
one of the star attractions of the world-famous are five times higher than those at Niagara, and in the world (outdone only by Venezuela’s Angel
Yosemite Valley in the Sierra Nevada mountains spew out water at a prodigious average rate of Falls), Tugela plunges in a single fine cascade
of California. The falls plunge in three separate 23,414 cubic ft (663 cubic m) per second, making from the topmost escarpment of the awesome
stages over a series of gray limestone cliffs. There’s Kaieteur, statistically, one of the world’s most Drakensberg Mountains. Surrounded by a great
the spectacular 1,394-ft (425-m) Upper Falls, then powerful cascades and, visually, one of its most bowl of rocky red cliff faces known as the
the so-called “cascades” (a series of smaller drops), dramatic. The setting is unforgettable too – the Amphitheatre, the falls boast one of the most
and finally the 318-ft (97-m) Lower Falls. Although waterfall lies in one of the continent’s largest memorable locations on the planet. Tugela can
it’s not exactly undiscovered, of course (Yosemite tracts of undisturbed rain forest. And despite be seen from the road, but there are also two
is one of the world’s most famous – and most being Guyana’s leading tourist attraction, it still trails that lead right to the cascades. The first of
popular – national parks), heading up the steep only attracts around 40,000 visitors a year – far these is the spectacular Mont-aux-Sources path,
path to the Upper Falls is a great way of escaping fewer than Iguaçu, let alone Niagara. which climbs to the very top of the falls and the
the worst of the crowds, and there are superb Drakensberg escarpment, while the second, less-
views en route. strenuous trail heads to the base of the falls.
Practical Information
Getting There There is no road access to the falls. They are best visited
Practical Information either by plane on a day trip from Georgetown, which is an hour’s flight Practical Information
Getting There Fly into San Francisco and then either rent a car or take a bus to away, or on foot via a spectacular wilderness trek that takes between Getting There The best way to access Tugela Falls is to fly to Johannesburg
the park. The top of the Upper Falls can be reached by a 3.5-mile (6-km) trail. three and five days to complete. and then drive to Royal Natal National Park.
When to Go Visit in April and May, when the falls are at their finest, the When to Go Visit in January, June or July, during either of the country’s two When to Go Visit in the cool, dry months (Jun–Sep). Water volumes aren’t
weather not too cold, and the crowds not too oppressive. rainy seasons, when the falls are at their most powerful. part of the appeal of these falls, so it makes sense to avoid the wet season.
Website www.nps.gov/yose Website www.kaieteurpark.gov.gy Website www.drakensberg-tourism.com/tugela-falls.html







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176


NATURAL WONDERS FORGET THE COSTA




RICAN RAIN FORESTS?

THE BUILD-UP For years the rain forests
of Costa Rica have been the destination
of choice for travelers wishing to see and
interact with Mother Nature on her own

can see, tropical birds flit about with bright
plumage, and the sights and sounds of a pristine
Mindo-Nambillo terms. Tall trees soar higher than the eye
ecosystem are everywhere.
THE LETDOWN And so it was...but not so
Cloud Forest much anymore. What used to be a nearly intact
rain forest has been splintered and chopped
into small parcels throughout the country,
many with little or no regulation. Now
approaching the level of a mass tourism
destination, these forests are crowded with
vs Costa Rican Rain Forests vendors selling everything from Spanish-
language instruction books to mass-produced
souvenirs.
The Costa Rican rain forests, now largely co-opted by foreign tour operators, have less-
GOING ANYWAY? Rather than book a tour, visit
than-pristine environments. Ecuador’s Mindo-Nambillo cloud forest is the real thing one of the national parks and enlist one of the
certified guides there. It will be much cheaper, and
you’ll have less competition from other tourists.

has a spectacular wealth of native-environment
NEED TO KNOW
flora, including some of the world’s rarest orchids,
LOCATION The Mindo-Nambillo as well as fauna, especially tropical butterflies and
Cloud Forest is about 24 miles
(40 km) northwest of .*/%0 /".#*--0 birds – many of which were once thought to be
Ecuador’s capital, Quito $-06% '03&45 extinct but actually manage to survive here.
4BOUB .BSUB
VISITORS PER YEAR 2VJUP The cloud forest is a truly magical place, filled
Around 12,000 1PSUPWJFKP
DAYTIME &$6"%03 with the sights and sounds of an ecosystem that
TEMPERATURES (VBZBRVJM still flourishes in this corner of Ecuador, free from
Jan: 77°F (25°C); Apr: 79°F 1BDJöD 21st-century cares. In fact, to say that Mindo-
0DFBO
(26°C); Jul: 82°F (28°C); 1&36
Oct: 80°F (27°C) -PKB Nambillo is a rejuvenating place is a huge ABOVE Small shops and vendors lining First Beach at Manuel
understatement. For years a well-kept secret, or a Antonio National Park, Costa Rica
largely ignored paradise, depending on who you
Tucked away in the sloping hills northwest of ask, Mindo-Nambillo has come into its own only
Quito, and no more than a 90-minute drive from since 1982 and now falls under the protection of
the capital, lies the extraordinary Mindo-Nambillo the Ecuadoran government. Unlike rain forests in
Cloud Forest or, to use its official title, the Bosque Costa Rica and elsewhere, there are stringent PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Protector Mindo-Nambillo. It’s one of those places regulations regarding who gets in and the
that will leave you doubly astonished – by its purpose for the visit. You won’t find tour guides Getting There and Around prettiest setting – has excellent
beauty and by the fact that it isn’t more widely hawking their services, nor five-star luxury hotels Getting to Mindo-Nambillo cabins and plenty of bird-watching
couldn’t be easier. It’s less than opportunities of its own.
known, although that’s changing fast. Covering that undermine the forest’s ecology. What you will
a 2-hour drive over paved roads When to Go
nearly 49,000 acres (20,000 hectares), the reserve find are increasingly rare flora and more than from Quito. There’s a lot June through September is the
500 species of birds in a pristine, natural to do in the area, so renting a car most pleasant period to visit.
environment. For those interested in outdoor is recommended. Avoid the rainy season from
activities, there are trails for walking and bird- Where to Eat October to May. It is better to
watching, and if you’re scrupulously careful, you On the way to the cloud forest, visit on weekdays as there are
may even be able to go rafting or rappel the take the road to Calacalí and stop fewer tourists; weekends can be
off at Pululahua to try El Cráter very busy with families.
beautiful La Isla Waterfalls.
(www.elcrater.com), on the Budget per Day for Two
The government wisely established a buffer outskirts of town. It has excellent Roughly US$40 should do nicely,
zone within the park, the first of its kind in South food and outstanding views of especially considering the lack of
America, where visitors can lodge or camp and a volcanic crater and the vendors and tour promoters.
stock up on supplies. Guides are allowed to set up surrounding landscape. Bring a bit more money if you
shop only if they pass extensive tests. Where to Stay plan to stay the night in Mindo.
Mindo-Nambillo also takes its commitment In Mindo itself, the comfortable Website
Mindo Garden (www. www.getquitoecuador.com/
to family education seriously, so if you have the
mindogardens.com) – situated quito-natural-attractions/
kids along, there’s plenty for all to do and see, as in what may be the region’s mindo_cloudforest.html
ABOVE A visitor on a log bridge in the Mindo-Nambillo forest preserve much of the preserve is accessible to children.






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NATURAL WONDERS























































MAIN IMAGE Guarumos Waterfall, Mindo-Nambillo Cloud Forest
BELOW (left to right) Butterfly species, Heliconius erato;
birders in a forest hide; an Andean Emerald hummingbird

























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NATURAL WONDERS






































Bushwalkers admiring a cascading waterfall in the heart of the Blue
Mountains, Australia
Blue Mountains The thick canopy of lush green trees in a rainforest in the Cayo District

of Belize
Rainforests of
NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION The Blue Mountains in */%0/&4*"
New South Wales, Australia, are Belize
approximately 30 miles (50 km) *OEJBO %BSXJO
northwest of Sydney 0DFBO $PSBM
4FB
VISITORS PER YEAR
About 155,000 NEED TO KNOW
"6453"-*"
DAYTIME LOCATION Almost half of
TEMPERATURES #-6& Belize is covered by rain forests; .&9*$0
Jan: 73°F (23°C); Apr: 61°F 1FSUI .06/5"*/4 you’re never more than an Of the many rain forests here, Cockscomb Basin,
(16°C); Jul: 50°F (10°C); $BOCFSSB 4ZEOFZ hour’s drive by 4WD from one
Oct: 63°F (17°C) 4PVUIFSO #&-*;& Crooked Tree, Western, Macal River Valley, Cayo,
0DFBO
VISITORS PER YEAR #FMJ[F $JUZ and the Bladen Nature Reserve are particularly
More than 100,000 #FMNPQBO
outstanding. All of them feature crystalline rivers
DAYTIME #&-*;&
Australia’s Blue Mountains range, set in arguably TEMPERATURES $BSJCCFBO coursing through blue-green valleys and hillsides,
4FB
the continent’s most beautiful region, defies Jan: 75°F (24°C); Apr: 80°F surrounded by untouched stands of tropical
(27°C); Jul: 82°F (28°C);
classification. Comprising seven national parks Oct: 79°F (26°C) trees, and myriad flora and fauna of every
and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this (6"5&."-" description. Birders from all over the world flock
remarkable area is a mix of everything Australia to the Belize rain forests, where more than 600
has to offer. The mountain ranges, referred to as Costa Rica isn’t the only country in Central species of birds have been identified. If this wasn’t
Upper and Lower, are home to Australia’s only America to lay claim to pristine rain forests. Its enough to lure you, many of these forests are also
temperate rain forest and a wealth of flora, neighbor to the north, Belize, also boasts some of home to magnificent Mayan ruins, while others
including dozens of species found nowhere else the continent’s most marvelous expanses of border gorgeous, remote cays, and inlets running
in the continent. With numerous walking trails these rapidly dwindling forests. An astonishing along the country’s coast.
and out-of-the-way preserves just begging to be 65 percent of the country’s old-growth forests The Belize rain forests for the most part are
explored, there is something for everyone, served still remain and roughly half of the country is easily accessible and have a great infrastructure,
up against the backdrop of the Blue Mountains. covered by rain forests. Long a proponent of as well as top-notch guides. So, whether you
sustainable tourism with an ecological twist, decide to stay a day, week, month, or more, you’re
Belize has more protected land per square mile never far from what you need to be comfortable.
Practical Information
than any other Latin American nation. At the For the many visitors who prefer to rough it a bit,
Getting There and Around The Blue Mountains are easily reached from
Sydney by rental car, train, or private bus. same time, the government has gone to great there are campsites and tree lodges in most
lengths to keep these forests free from urban areas. Some of the private rain forests – yes,
When to Go The Australian winter, which occurs between Jun–Aug, is
quite chilly. Dec–Feb is warmer and a better time to visit, though sees development and has focused on their Belize has them as well, generally 490 acres (200
more visitors as a consequence. preservation. Around 44 percent of Belize’s forests hectares) or less in size – even offer luxury
Website www.bluemts.com.au are protected within national parks. accommodations carefully engineered to fit into







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A golden lion tamarin on a tree in the Poco das Antas Reserve, Mata
Atlântica, Brazil
Mata Atlântica Longboats and tourists visit Clearwater Cave, Mulu National Park, in

the state of Sarawak, Malaysia
Borneo Jungle
NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION The Mata
Atlântica lies along Brazil’s
eastern coast, and extends NEED TO KNOW
inland as far as Paraguay .BOBVT
#3";*-
and Argentina LOCATION Almost the entire island of
1&36
VISITORS PER YEAR #SBTJMJB Borneo is covered by first-generation
Fewer than 10,000 #0-*7*" rain forests, all accessible from ,PUB ,JOBCBMV
."5" coastal settlements #36/&*
DAYTIME "5-§/5*$" 3JP EF
TEMPERATURES 4ÈP 1BVMP +BOFJSP VISITORS PER YEAR . "- ":4*"
Jan: 70°F (21°C); Apr: 66°F (19°C); "3(&/5*/" "UMBOUJD Fewer than 10,000 ,VDIJOH
Jul: 61°F (16°C); Oct: 73°F (23°C) 0DFBO DAYTIME
636(6": #03/&0
TEMPERATURES 1PUJBOBL 4BNBSJOEB
Jan: 79°F (26°C); Apr: 82°F
(28°C); Jul: 80°F (27°C); */%0/&4*"
Taken as a whole, Brazil’s once-gigantic Mata Oct: 80°F (27°C)
Atlântica (or Atlantic Forest) formerly represented
the world’s largest tree-covered region. This UN-
mandated World Biosphere Reserve holds within The island of Borneo is shared by three countries
more than 40 percent of the world’s known tree – Brunei, Indonesia, and Malaysia – and has to
species. It also boasts thousands upon thousands rank as one of the most out-of-the-way places on
of different kinds of flowers, plants, and, of course, earth. This is a truly exotic travel destination –
wildlife, many of them found nowhere else in the expensive, hot, humid, and primitive to the
ABOVE A view of the main temple at Altun Ha, a Mayan ruin in the world. However, the deforestation of much of the extreme. Yet for the adventurous, it can be a
rain forest of Belize
country and unregulated development have put paradise. The rain forests here are still amongst
this forest – now estimated to be only a tenth of the least explored anywhere, and some of the
the surroundings. But the one thing that most its original size – at great risk. Fortunately, most biodiverse on the planet. And, despite
characterizes all of these Belize ecological reforestation efforts are underway and an suffering greatly from deforestation in the 1980s
jewels is the governmental commitment to increasing number of ecologically minded and 1990s, Borneo will still reward you like no
ensure that these forests are maintained in their tourists are coming to see Mata Atlântica’s other spot on earth.
natural state – and it shows. great mangrove stands.

Practical Information
Practical Information Practical Information Getting There and Around Borneo is about as remote as it gets, so you
Getting There and Around Using Belize city as a base, it is easiest to reach Getting There and Around Most travelers drive to the Mata Atlântica, will most likely be met by your guide in Brunei or in one of Malaysia’s
the rain forests in a rented 4WD. Some can be accessed by boat. located along eastern Brazil from Rio de Janeiro or São Paulo. Alternatively, coastal cities.
When to Go The best time to visit is between Apr and Jun, although March visitors fly in from Manaus. When to Go The weather is hot and humid throughout the year, but the
is also an excellent month. Visitors wanting to spend time in the coastal When to Go Nov–Mar is the best time to visit, as the days are generally best time to visit the rain forests is between March and October when
regions arrive as early as December. warm and sunny (although it can rain in the western and southern forests). there is less rain.
Website www.travelbelize.org Website www.biodiversityhotspots.org/xp/Hotspots/atlantic_forest Website www.visitborneo.com







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NATURAL WONDERS






























ABOVE Aerial view of the dazzling sapphire lakes at Jiuzhai Gou, China


JIUZHAI GOU LAKES, SICHUAN PROVINCE, CHINA The lush mountainous area of AGGTELEK CAVES, HUNGARY These ARCHES NATIONAL PARK, UTAH, USA
Jiuzhai Gou is an earthly paradise known for its 90-plus crystal-clear lakes that sparkle vast underground caves protect record- One of nature’s seemingly random acts was
with greens and blues ranging from sapphire to jade, and for its generously gushing sized stalactites and stalagmites, as well to erode the rich sandstone of the high
waterfalls. Divided into three main valleys, the preserve is home to diverse vegetation, as snails, beetles, worms, and crabs. Just desert in Utah into arches – around 2,000
including bamboo forests that sustain the endangered giant panda population. Fall is a three of the hundreds of caves are open of them. You may want a guide in this
good time to visit, when the leaves burn fiery shades of yellow, gold, and red. The area is to the public, and the longest runs for dramatic landscape, where temperatures
not easy to reach – it is 10 hours by road from Chengdu, the nearest big town. 13 miles (21 km) into nearby Slovenia. can fluctuate alarmingly in 24 hours.



BAKO NATIONAL PARK, SARAWAK, BEARA PENINSULA, IRELAND In the BLUE LAGOON, ICELAND This must be the ultimate bathing experience – and it could
MALAYSIA Bearded pigs, mouse deer, far southwest of Ireland, this toe of land do you good, too. A steaming blue pool at a cozy 105°F (40°C), this surreal open-air bath,
flying lemurs, long-nosed monkeys, and dipping into the Atlantic is as wild and located 24 miles (39 km) from Reykjavík, is warm enough to swim in at any time of year.
hairy-nosed otters are just some of the wonderful as the country gets. The great As clean as it is clear, the salt water is run-off from the neighboring power station, which
fabulous animals you’re likely to spot rocky peninsula, between Kenmare and pumps it up from 1 mile (1.5 km) below the ground, where it is piping hot, harnesses its
on the jungle trails of Bako, the jewel of Bantry bays, offers some spectacular heat and then releases it into the lagoon, where it gradually cools. The water is said to
Borneo’s national parks. scenery and wonderful walking country. be good for your skin, and health and beauty treatments are on hand.


BUCKSKIN GULCH, UTAH, USA VALLE DE LA LUNA, CHILE Upon arrival COLCA CANYON, PERU Standing on the
Slot canyons are characterized by their in the Atacama Desert’s Valle de la Luna, edge of this mighty canyon, which is twice
narrow openings and great depth, and you would be forgiven for thinking you had as deep as the Grand Canyon, you’ll see
nowhere in the world are they as deep landed on the moon. Cavernous valleys magnificent condors catching thermals
– or as long – as at Buckskin Gulch. The and steep ridges sculpted entirely by that rise from the valley floor. Ancient
sunless depths of this 15-mile (25-km) nature cover a spectrum of changing hues. terraces on the canyon’s sloping sides
canyon can be walked, although some For somewhere so uninhabitable, there’s maintain communities that farmed here
people like to go canyoneering too. The a surprising amount to do, from trekking before the Incas arrived. A good way to
gulch is a tributary of the Paria River, to sand-boarding, and a visit at sunset explore this magical place is on a white-
which flows into the Colorado River. rewards you with breathtaking views. water rafting trip of the Río Colca.


CURONIAN SPIT, LITHUANIA Europe’s KAA-IYA DEL GRAN CHACO NATIONAL FISH RIVER CANYON, NAMIBIA This
largest beach stretches for nearly 62 PARK, BOLIVIA This tropical forest gets magnificent canyon, one of the largest in
miles (100 km) along the Baltic Sea, and so little rain that many of its animals have the world, was created by the wear and
has the highest dunes in the northern adapted so that they can go for days tear of the river and the collapse of the
hemisphere. If you visit on a sunny day, without water: deer and tapirs get their valley bottom through a shift in the earth’s
you may well think you have arrived in liquid from cacti, while big cats rely on crust. The best way to get to know it is on
the middle of an Arabian desert. The fluids from their prey. The forest is also a five-day hiking trail, but you must come
sand bar encloses an enormous lagoon thought to be home to around 1,000 prepared, as there are no facilities. Try to
and has a fragile ecosystem, so obey the jaguars – the largest number in any visit in winter (May–Sep), when the river is
local rules to avoid causing erosion. protected area in the world. less torrential than in the summer months.








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ABOVE Glacier National Park combines rugged mountain beauty with verdant rolling meadows
RIGHT One of the four coral islands in the unspoiled Aldabra Atoll, Seychelles

GLACIER NATIONAL PARK, MONTANA, USA The beautiful mountainous landscape of ALDABRA ATOLL, SEYCHELLES Four idyllic coral islands encircling an enormous
Glacier National Park, which runs right up to the Canadian border, was formed thousands shallow lagoon make up this atoll, where humans have, by and large, kept away. Out of
of years ago by dramatic glacial action. Its diverse terrain – which includes alpine forests, the way of shipping lanes and with no fresh water, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is
meadows, tundras, and lakes – is still roamed by grizzly bears and wolves. You have to have one of the most remote and harsh environments on the planet. Despite this, the Indian
a good idea of what you want to do before visiting, because there is so much on offer, from Ocean’s last flightless bird, the Aldabra rail, unlike the doomed dodo, has managed to
boating and fishing to horse-riding and cross-country skiing, not to mention the hundreds survive here. Just as content are tens of thousands of turtles, while sharks, barracudas,
of miles of hiking trails. After a day in the clean mountain air you will sleep like a log. and countless manta rays bask in the beautifully clear turquoise waters.



LAKE BAIKAL, SIBERIA, RUSSIA Despite GLOW-WORM DISPLAYS, WAITOMO CAVES, NEW ZEALAND On the North Island of
repeated attempts, nobody has ever got New Zealand, 3 hours’ drive from Auckland, you’ll find the labyrinthine limestone caves of
to the bottom of the world’s deepest – and Waitomo, which drip with the silken, sticky threads of the larvae of fungus gnats, otherwise
largest – freshwater lake. A spectacle all known as glow-worms. Each worm hangs up to 70 glowing threads, 12–16 in (30–40 cm)
year round, the lake is frozen in winter and long, from its ceiling nest to attract and trap midges, flies, and moths. It’s a magical
satin-smooth in summer, while fall brings display that resembles the Milky Way in microcosm. Tours include rides on rubber rafts
waves of oceanic proportions. through the underground waterways, black-water rafting trips, and cave rappelling.


SAN JUAN ISLANDS, WASHINGTON STATE, USA Visitors boarding a ferry at Anacortes GORGES DU VERDON, PROVENCE, FINGAL’S CAVE, ISLE OF STAFFA, UK
on the Washington mainland and gliding into the glorious San Juan archipelago for the FRANCE One of the most picturesque On the ferry from Mull in Scotland to the
first time might well feel that they are entering an enchanted land. Here, in a maze of spots in Europe, this canyon is not too Isle of Staffa, the chances are you will be
inlets and channels, more than 450 islands – 172 of them named – emerge from the daunting to explore. It is a wonderful serenaded by Mendelssohn’s Fingal’s Cave
bright blue waters of the northern Puget Sound. Hills carpeted in old-growth Douglas fir spot for walking, and kayaking and Overture over the boat’s loudspeaker
rise from the shores, while the soaring snow-capped peaks of the spectacular Olympic white-water rafting are popular in the system. And when you reach the giant
Peninsula tower in the distance. It’s an awesome scene. If so much natural beauty is too dazzling turquoise waters that seem to opening in the basalt rock that rises out
hard to take in at once, indulge in some whale-watching – either from a kayak or the give the whole landscape its luminous, of the sea like a huge stick of broccoli,
Lime Kiln Point State Park on San Juan Island, where you might well catch a glimpse of optimistic air. The limestone canyon walls you will see why the German composer
the resident population of orca whales as they feed. also make this a center for climbing. was inspired to write his stirring piece.


KODACHROME BASIN STATE PARK, GOCTA FALLS, PERU These fabulous ERG CHEBBI, SAHARA, MOROCCO
UTAH, USA It’s no wonder this state falls in Peru’s Northern Highlands drop This is the desert at its most beautiful,
park was named after America’s most an astounding 2,530 ft (770 m) in two but the footprints you leave here won’t
famous color film – Kodak’s Kodachrome tiers. They were only “discovered” a few last long. An erg is a strange phenomenon
– known for capturing “hot” colors well. years ago, and until planned access roads – it’s a mountain range of sand that drifts
The bright hues of the rocks are truly are completed, you’ll need to complete at the will of the wind. Watch the blazing
outstanding, especially on the “sand pipes” a 5-hour trek through dense jungle to sun cast weird and wonderful shapes
– chimneys of rock thought to be the reach them. But that trip itself, radiant and shadows over the pristine surfaces of
sediment of extinct geysers that remained with colorful birds and chattering the dunes, with their fluid, sensual curves
after the surrounding land eroded. monkeys, is worth the effort. and ripples created by the wind.








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ABOVE Lighthouse in the azure, reef-speckled water off the southern coast of Grande Terre, New Caledonia
RIGHT Wattled jaçana walking across a Victoria water lily in a pond near Porto Jofre, northern Pantanal

NEW CALEDONIA BARRIER REEF, MELANESIA Second in length only to Australia’s PANTANAL, BRAZIL The largest wetlands in the world don’t sound particularly appealing.
Great Barrier Reef, this coral formation in the southwest Pacific runs for nearly 1,000 miles But this vast and incredibly fertile region of central-west Brazil has some of the most
(1,600 km) through the islands of New Caledonia, encircling a vast lagoon. Species found exciting – and easily seen – creatures in the world. The wet season runs from November
here are so diverse that many are still being discovered, though 1,000 kinds of fish are to April, when it rains for several hours every afternoon and the aquatic flora rejoices; in
known. Turtles love the reef, as do dugongs – clumsy-looking marine mammals that can the dry season, which runs from May to October, a huge variety of birds congregate
grow to the size of a cow. Dive in and see coral, sponges, molluscs, and tropical fish; stay here. Capybaras, giant otters, and marsh deer are among the animals to be seen all year
above water and glimpse many exotic birds, including the red-footed booby. round. Stay on a local cattle farm and explore the region by boat or on horseback.



MONUMENT VALLEY, UTAH, USA Heading down dead-straight Highway 161 towards MANDAI ORCHID GARDEN, SINGAPORE Of all
the backdrop of Monument Valley’s broken crags, you might well get the feeling that the world’s cultivated flowers, none is so exotic as
you have been this way before. And in films, you have – this classic Western scene of the orchid. And one of the best places to see it in all
unremitting desert scattered with the great, lonely fists of red rock known as “Mittens” its exquisite glory is at Mandai’s Vintage Garden in
has seen many a cowboy and stagecoach ride by. You can take a horse or go on a tour to Singapore. This hillside plot has some 200 varieties of
reach those places that are off-limits to those on foot. For an authentic touch, consider the flower in many fabulous shapes and colors, as
staying in a hogan – a traditional home of the Native American Navajo people. well as a water garden and herb and spice enclosure.



RIO GRANDE GORGE, NEW MEXICO, SAMARIA GORGE, CRETE, GREECE WADI EL-HITAN (VALLEY OF THE PLAYA OSTIONAL, COSTA RICA One of
USA Take in the view of this void from the A walk through this deep fissure of WHALES), EGYPT There was a time when nature’s miraculous events is the arrival of
Rio Grande Gorge Bridge on Highway 64, rock, running for 11 miles (17 km) from whales wandered the earth. Well, an early thousands of turtles on this beach every
a piece of engineering to match the drama Omalos to Aghia Roumeli on the south type of whale – a four-legged creature few weeks from July to November. These
of the canyon itself. Way below is a river coast of Crete, is not for the unfit. Once in called an archaeoceti. It’s a scary, unlikely amphibians lumber out of the surf to
that promises white-water rafting par the gorge, there’s no turning back. It’s a thought, but here the evidence is brought lay their eggs in such numbers that the
excellence. Underground volcanic activity Dantean landscape of sheer rock rising to light: the skeletons of land-whales on beach can look like a rocky shore. A
still shows up in hot springs along the towards the sun, which in high summer the point of losing their hind legs. This is conservation deal with the locals allows
valley, and petroglyphs reveal human shines without mercy. Towards the end, the greatest concentration of prehistoric them to collect eggs from the first batches,
activity from centuries past. the rock walls are 1,640 ft (500 m) high. animal bones ever found. as long as they protect the later ones.


NORTHERN LIGHTS, GREENLAND LUNAR RAINBOWS, VICTORIA FALLS, SEMENGGOH NATURE RESERVE,
Much mystery still surrounds the aurora ZAMBIA/ZIMBABWE Victoria Falls is a SARAWAK, MALAYSIA This is your
borealis; scientists do not know, for spectacular sight at any time, not least chance to come face to face with the
example, why the geomagnetic storms because its spray, like rain, creates a king of the swingers, the orang-utan.
behind the phenomenon are strongest rainbow when the sun is out. At night, Many survive in the jungle here because
during the equinoxes. But you don’t have this rainbow usually vanishes, except of the successful work of the preserve’s
to understand the science to appreciate when there is a full moon and a clear sky, rehabilitation center, where you can see
the most spectacular show on earth. Head and when the Zambezi River is at its most these funny, intelligent primates. They
to Greenland instead of the more touristy thunderous (Jan–Jul). The combination of spend most of their time foraging, but
viewing spots in Alaska and Norway. moon and rainbow is a very romantic one. appear twice a day at feeding time.








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ABOVE Two ring-tailed lemurs crossing a large rock in the late afternoon, Madagascar
LEFT Steller’s sea eagles and white-tailed eagles on ice in the Nemuro Channel, Shiretoko Peninsula, Japan

SHIRETOKO PENINSULA, JAPAN In the far northeast of Hokkaido, Japan’s most northerly TSINGY DE BEMARAHA NATURE RESERVE, MADAGASCAR The otherworldly
island, lies a rugged finger of land jutting 40 miles (65 km) into the Sea of Okhotsk. landscape of this UNESCO World Heritage-listed preserve is a lush mix of mangrove
Surprisingly, this peninsula, which is on about the same latitude as the state of Oregon or swamps and emerald-green forests studded with fingers of limestone rock and riven
the French Riviera, freezes over in winter, and the snow remains in its shaded valleys until by deep gorges. Make a special effort to see the dramatic Manambolo River canyon on
summer. A string of volcanoes – one of which, Iouyama, remains active – runs across this the south side of the park. When it comes to wildlife, lemurs are the stars, particularly
wild landscape, where bears live in ancient woodlands, eagles scour clear skies, and sea the endemic sifaka and ring-tailed varieties. Like these, many of the other creatures in
lions bark on lonely shores. Shiretoko (“the end of the earth”) is Japan’s last wilderness. the preserve have learned to adapt to the region’s fiercely dry climate.



PHOSPHORESCENT BAY, PUERTO RICO Anybody who has had a midnight swim in PAINTED CANYON, NORTH DAKOTA, USA Painted Canyon is one of the most awe-
the sea on a moonlit night will know the excitement of seeing small phosphorescent inspiring parts of the North Dakota Bad Lands. This phantasmagoric region lies on the
bubbles spinning through their fingers. But that is nothing compared to snorkeling in southern edge of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, named after the former president,
Phosphorescent Bay, where microscopic organisms called dinoflagellates sparkle at the who owned a ranch here. It is a shockingly harsh landscape of rocks and buttes, where
slightest disturbance. Even if you don’t fancy diving in, you can easily see the effects. Just temperatures are extreme and bison and horses still roam freely. Roosevelt, who came
watch the wake of a boat or paddle your hand in the water, and you’ll see twinkling. The here after the loss of his wife and mother on the same day, saw himself as a frontiersman,
best time to go is when there is a full moon or, most prettily, during a light rain. and in this remote and beautiful place, you are bound to feel like one, too.


TEIDE NATIONAL PARK, TENERIFE Spain’s SOSSUSVLEI, NAMIBIA Sunrise and KYUSHU AZALEAS, JAPAN In spring,
tallest mountain, which rises spectacularly from sunset are the best times to see the the shade of pink that creeps across the
the island of Tenerife, is surrounded by the lava magnificent sand dunes of Sossusvlei on slopes of Japan’s most southerly island,
fields of the collapsed cone of an earlier volcano. the Namibian coast. But the only way to Kyushu, is simply shocking. Kyushu azaleas
It is a strangely exhilarating place, popular for do so is to camp in the Namib Naukluft are just one of 300 varieties native to Japan,
fashion shoots and films about prehistoric Park, which is otherwise closed at these and they spread like wildfire. It is a joy to
monsters, including Planet of the Apes (1968). times of day. These high dunes, which are see this shrub, so familiar as a tamed
Snowcapped for much of the year, the peak is blown as sheer as silk with razor-sharp garden plant, completely untamed. Locals
not all desolate: Teide broom and other brilliant edges, surround a vlei – a red-clay water believe that the sight of them restores the
flowers bloom with the first rains of spring. hole that fills up every now and then. human spirit, and they are surely right.


WOLONG NATURE RESERVE, SICHUAN, SKAGEN, DENMARK Walk along this ANTARCTIC PENINSULA A setting of FINGER LAKES, NEW YORK STATE, USA
CHINA With their big black eyes and sandy beach to Grenan, the most northerly incomparable beauty, Antarctica is an The 11 long, narrow, glacier-carved Finger
deep-pile coats, giant pandas are the most tip of Denmark, and you will see the Baltic unforgettable destination and one of the Lakes are natural marvels ranging from
appealing of bears. It’s no wonder they Sea on one side and the North Sea on few untouched places in the world. Your 3 to 40 miles (5 to 65 km) in length, and
were chosen as the emblem of the World the other, their waves hurtling towards days here will be spent cruising deep-blue surrounded by gorges brimming over
Wildlife Fund. At the Wolong Giant Panda each other and often colliding in such a waters known for their breaching whales with more than 1,000 waterfalls. Watkins
Breeding Centre in the highlands, you tumult of spray that you expect white and icebergs the size of ships. The region Glen is a jewel, with its stunning gorge
can watch these gentle creatures safe in horses to jump out of the water. Remote has some fascinating wildlife. Penguins are and a series of 19 waterfalls. Walking trails
the knowledge that the program here is and romantic, this shifting sandy headland found in their thousands, along with wind through it, including one that leads
for their conservation and rehabilitation. has long been popular with artists. whales, seals, and a large number of birds. behind the roaring Central Cascade.








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beaches




Aerial view of coral-ringed Kuata Island, Yasawa archipelago, Fiji (p207)







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BEACHES




Grace Bay






vs Magens Bay ABOVE Sun-worshipers crowd the beach at Magens Bay on

the island of St Thomas, US Virgin Islands

Sweeping in a spectacular arc as far as the eye can see and shelving into calm FORGET MAGENS BAY?
turquoise water, breathtaking Grace Bay surpasses Magens Bay by leagues
THE BUILD-UP This picture-postcard bay is
lined by a white-sand beach stretching for more
than half-a-mile (1 km). It has virtually no tides
water sport, jump on a horse, or simply relax on the
NEED TO KNOW or waves, and the gentle slope into the azure
sand, where a near-constant breeze takes the edge water, as well as the presence of lifeguards,
LOCATION Grace Bay is on /PSUI off the blazing sun, this blissful spot has it all. makes it perfect for children. Trees offer respite
the north shore of the island $BJDPT
of Providenciales in the While Magens Bay has no hotels, cosmopolitan from the sun, and a concession rents chairs and
Turks and Caicos Islands, 1307*%&/$*"-&4 &BTU Grace Bay is blessed with a variety of plush lockers, has shower facilities, and sells food.
575 miles (925 km) $BJDPT
southeast of Miami 4PVUI $BJDPT accommodation options that boast pampering
(SBOE THE LETDOWN Magens Bay can get very, very
POPULATION 17,000 563,4 5VSL luxury, first-rate facilities, and to-die-for settings.
$"*$04 *4-"/%4 busy, especially when the cruise ships have
VISITORS PER YEAR 300,000 These hotels are so swanky they even offer their docked and the tour buses spill out their hordes.
DAYTIME TEMPERATURES "UMBOUJD 0 DFBO guests king-size canopied beds on the beach and There’s no coral reef here, and the big rock pools
Jan: 73°F (23°C); Apr: 77°F (25°C); pretty thatched umbrellas to stand in for palm trees.
Jul: 84°F (29°C); Oct: 82°F (28°C) boast only average snorkeling conditions. Alas,
Atmospheric restaurants and casual but classy bars the beach charges for the privilege of a visit:
on the beach give visitors the opportunity to sip there’s a US$3 entrance fee plus US$1 for parking.
For sugary, pristine sand that gently disappears chilled beers or killer rum cocktails with the soft sand The road to the beach is also unnervingly steep.
under clear, electric-blue water, Grace Bay is hard between their toes. The bay’s eco-friendly, ultra-
to beat. This glorious beach dwarfs world-famous modern Leeward Marina, which opened in 2008, GOING ANYWAY? If you like exercise, you can
Magens Bay in the US Virgin Islands in scale, beauty, beckons the super-rich in their floating party palaces. hike to the beach via the Magens Bay Discovery
and five-star appeal. And while its better-known Unlike Magens Bay, where you’re trapped in a Trail. Try to time your arrival for when the cruise
rival gets very busy with cruise-ship passengers bowl surrounded by steep forested hills and cannot ships aren’t in port, or for late afternoon when
passengers have departed. No nude sunbathing
who surge down the hill to the beach like lemmings, easily explore inland, Grace Bay is also the perfect
is allowed, but you can get an all-over tan at
the frost-white curve of sand at Grace Bay unfurls base for trips around Providenciales. It’s no effort to
Little Magens Beach, a short swim away.
for a staggering 10 miles (16 km), making it well- hop in a taxi to Conch Farm, which is home to about
nigh impossible for the beach to get crowded. 2 million of the endangered mollusks, or the island’s
Grace Bay is the jewel in the crown of the Turks National Environmental Center, where there are
and Caicos archipelago’s main island, Providenciales fascinating exhibits on local marine life. You can even
(known by locals as “Provo”), and is consistently get in the swing at the championship Provo Golf
rated among the world’s top ten beaches. The Club, with its grass-fringed bunkers echoing the
pristine ocean in the bay is part of Princess Alexandra silt-fine sands of Grace Bay. And Provo boasts plenty
Marine National Park and is as still as a millpond of other beaches: at dusk, head west to lonesome
thanks to a protective coral reef that lies 1,650 ft Malcolm Beach to savor the spectacular sunsets.
(500 m) off the coast. Not surprisingly, scuba-
diving, snorkeling, and swimming conditions in the
bay are second to none. Horse-riding is another PRACTICAL INFORMATION
popular activity at Grace Bay, where noisy beach
Getting There and Around fresh seafood. For sophistication,
buggies, quad bikes, and jet skis are banned.
Provo International Airport is try Anacaona at the Grace Bay
Whether you want to try out every conceivable served by daily flights from the Club (www.gracebayclub.com).
USA, Canada, the UK, and other
Where to Stay
Caribbean islands. From here, Try the luxurious all-suite Seven
take a taxi to Grace Bay, which is Stars (www.sevenstars.com),
just a 30-minute drive away. which opened in 2008 and is the
Some hotels provide their own largest hotel on the beach.
airport shuttles. Taxi drivers are
When to Go
usually happy to act as local
guides, but fares are expensive. The weather is best from
You can also rent cars and November to May.
scooters on the island. Budget per Day for Two
Around US$300.
Where to Eat
Grace Bay has some sensational Website
restaurants, with the focus on www.turksandcaicostourism.com
ABOVE Thatched umbrellas on the beach at the Grace Bay Club






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BEACHES






















































MAIN IMAGE Local children racing towards the water at Grace Bay
BELOW (left to right) Windsurfers in the clear aquamarine water
of the bay; colorful wooden huts on the beach

4 MORE ISLAND BEACHES
TO RIVAL MAGENS BAY

PLAYA FLAMINGO, VIEQUES, PUERTO RICO This glorious
1-mile (2-km) scallop of pure-white sand is a little piece of
paradise. It is studded with WWII tanks from the days when
the US Navy used the island of Vieques for target practice.
SHOAL BAY, ANGUILLA With powder-fine sand, crystal-clear
azure water, great beach bars, popular restaurants, and pristine
coral reefs offering sensational snorkeling, this beautiful beach
has something for everyone.
SEVEN MILE BEACH, GRAND CAYMAN This scintillating
stretch of sand runs for 6 miles (9 km) alongside a deep-blue
sea, which is perfect for swimming and water sports. It is keen
competition for Grace Bay as best beach in the Caribbean.

PINK SANDS, ELEUTHERA, THE BAHAMAS Yes, the beach
here really is pink. It stretches for 3 miles (5 km) and boasts
classy resorts that are popular with Hollywood stars.







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188


BEACHES FORGET MIAMI?




THE BUILD-UP Miami Beach, with its vast
stretch of white sand, dotted with colorful
lifeguard towers and scattered with bronzed
bodies, is deemed one of the wealthiest beach
resorts in America. The streets that border the
Cottesloe Deco Historic District, its chic boutiques,
beach include the famous and fabulous Art
restaurants, hotels, and nightclubs filled with
the beautiful, rich, and famous.
Beach, Perth expensive. Hotel prices have skyrocketed in
THE LETDOWN The place is fast-paced and

recent years, as have the high-rises that loom
vs Miami Beach, Florida over the beach. If you want to venture far
from your base you will need to rent a car.
And, because it’s such a popular beach, there
are crowds wherever you go; there’s no point
They are both popular and beautiful, but Australia’s Cottesloe Beach has a winning searching for a secluded spot of sand here.
combination of loveliness and charm without the backdrop of a bustling high-rise city GOING ANYWAY? Start at “SoBe” (South
Beach) for a swim and, while in that area,
take a look inside Art Deco hotels such as
NEED TO KNOW Families crowd the beach as the kids, in Cottesloe’s The Delano – the lobbies are simply stunning.
surf-lifesaving colors of black, yellow and white, Head to Lincoln Road for dinner and people-
LOCATION Cottesloe Beach watching in the evening.
*/%0/&4*" train in watersports and surf-lifesaving techniques.
is a suburb of Perth in the state
of Western Australia Cottesloe’s surf is one of its key attractions for
*OEJBO %BSXJO
CITY POPULATION 0DFBO many. A never-ending succession of waves roll across
Around 1.6 million the Indian Ocean to rush up onto the long sweep of
DAYTIME "6453"-*" fine golden sand and entice surfers, who vie for the
TEMPERATURES
Jan: 88°F (31°C); 1&35) best position on each break. Quieter waters around
Apr: 77°F (25°C); "EFMBJEF 4ZEOFZ the stone-built breakwater are great for snorkeling.
Jul: 63°F (17°C); 4PVUIFSO $BOCFSSB
Oct: 72°F (22°C) 0DFBO By mid-afternoon the beach and its trendy bars
are being colonized by the party crowd, a mixture
of locals and tourists, enjoying a cold beer and
Both Miami and Cottesloe beaches experienced a light snacks at the end of another hot, sunny day.
renaissance in the 1980s after years of fading from Later, the gourmet restaurants that fringe the beach
fashion. Miami’s popularity grew from being the begin to fill with appreciative diners savoring the ABOVE Miami Beach, lined with high-rises and barely visible
setting of the hit TV show Miami Vice; Cottesloe’s fresh local produce and the spectacular views as for the crowds of vacationers on its sands
from Australia playing host to the America’s Cup the setting sun makes the world glow orange.
international yacht race. However, their respective Once again, numbers on west-facing Cottesloe
redevelopments took quite different paths and Beach begin to swell, as everyone gathers to watch
while Miami Beach is overshadowed by a high-rise the sunset silhouette the surfers, the late swimmers,
city, Cottesloe has never lost its low-rise charm. and lovely Rottnest Island in the distance – a visual
In the 1920s Miami Beach became a magnet treat that the beachgoers of eastward-facing
for millions of Americans heading south for winter. Miami can only dream about.
The building boom that resulted has left a legacy
in the now-restored Art Deco District. Then, as PRACTICAL INFORMATION
now, the beautiful and fashionable set flocked to
its pastel palaces. With its British Raj-style Indiana Getting There and Around Where to Stay
Perth International Airport is Rooms at the Ocean Beach Hotel
Tea House, pine-fringed Cottesloe also has its share
7 miles (12 km) northeast of the (www.obh.com.au) range from
of celebrity fans (it was Heath Ledger’s favorite city and linked by bus or taxi. ocean-view suites to budget dorms.
beach and, sadly, the scene of his wake), but it Cottesloe Beach is 7 miles (12 km)
When to Go
retains a low-key, family feel. And while its popularity southwest of Perth, 20 mins by In March, the beach becomes an
train from Perth Station.
is clear from the crowds that flock here to soak up outdoor gallery for the international
the sun, it is also quietly relaxed and exudes that Where to Eat art show Sculpture by the Sea.
With so many open-air cafés,
laid-back atmosphere for which Australia is known. Budget per Day for Two
bars with spectacular views, and
Professional lifeguards patrol both beaches but restaurant-lined Marine Parade, US$260 to include
Cottesloe has the iconic and much-photographed it is easy to see why so many accommodations in a 4-star
hotel, lunch at the beach, and a
volunteer Surf Life Savers, founded in 1919, to keep people head to ‘“Cott” to dine. gourmet dinner.
an eye on things, too. Their newest members can Try the Blue Duck Café (www.
blueduck.com.au) for stunning Websites
be found on the beach on Sunday mornings, when
views and great seafood. www.cottesloe.wa.gov.au
local children participate in the “Nippers’ program.”




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BEACHES



















































MAIN IMAGE Cottesloe Beach, with its historic Indiana Tea House
BELOW (left to right) Sculpture by the Sea exhibit; , uncrowded,
dune-fringed beach; fishermen on the Cottesloe breakwater at sunset







































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190 6 MORE CITY BEACHES TO RIVAL MIAMI BEACH


BEACHES






























Stunning white sand beaches curving round the headland at
Al-Mamzar, close to the center of Dubai, UAE
Al-Mamzar View across the dunes at Amager Beach Park, with wind turbines in
the distance, Copenhagen, Denmark Deserted, pristine sands of Non Nuoc Beach, washed by South China
Beach, Dubai Sea waves, Vietnam
Amager Beach

Park, Copenhagen
NEED TO KNOW Non Nuoc
LOCATION Al-Mamzar beach JSBO Beach, Danang
is on the Khor al-Mamzar inlet
in northern Dubai, United NEED TO KNOW
Arab Emirates 1FSTJBO (VMG
NEED TO KNOW
CITY POPULATION 2"5"3 %6#"* LOCATION Amager Beach is /PSUI 4FB
Around 1.2 million 3 miles (5 km) from central LOCATION Non Nuoc Beach
"CV %IBCJ Copenhagen, Denmark
DAYTIME (IVXBZGBU "BMCPSH is just outside the major port city )BOPJ
TEMPERATURES 6 " & CITY ,BUUFHBU of Danang, on the central coast of -"04
Jan: 75°F (24°C); Apr: 91°F PNBO POPULATION 48&%&/ Vietnam, 375 miles (600 km) south
(33°C); Jul: 106°F (41°C); Around 500,000 )FSOJOH %&/. "3, of the capital city Hanoi
4PVUI
Oct: 95°F (35°C) TBVEJ BSBCJB DAYTIME CITY POPULATION 5)"*-"/% %"/"/( $IJOB 4FB
TEMPERATURES &TCKFSH $01&/)"(&/ Around 800,000
Jan: 36°F (2°C); Apr: 50°F 7*&5/".
(10°C); Jul: 72°F (22°C); 4WFOECPSH DAYTIME $".#0%*" /IB 5SBOH
Al-Mamzar Beach is more than just a succession Oct: 54°F (12°C) TEMPERATURES
(&3."/: Jan: 75°F (24°C); Apr: 86°F (30°C); (VMG PG
of beautiful, curving, white sandy beaches, it is Jul: 93°F (34°C); Oct: 82°F (28°C) 5IBJMBOE )P $IJ .JOI $JUZ
also a park and recreational area that covers over
247 acres (100 ha) on a small headland to the Amager Beach Park is made up of a series of
north of central Dubai. Opened in 1994, the beaches and a 1-mile- (2-km-) long artificial Just south of Danang, at the foot of the Marble
parklands include beaches, swimming pools, a island, opened in 2005 and linked to the original Mountains, Non Nuoc (also known as China Beach)
stunning amphitheater, picnic areas, barbecue Amager Beach by three bridges. The mainland stretches for 3 miles (5 km) in a white, sandy arc
facilities, and children’s playgrounds, set amongst beach is divided by a headland. The northern that slopes gently into the clear blue waters of
acres of lush green lawn, palms, coconuts and area has a natural, untamed feel and its broad, the South China Sea. The beach is lined in part
other trees. The five beaches together make up sandy shoreline is backed by low-lying, grassy with an ancient forest of casuarina trees, and
the longest beach area along the coast of Dubai dunes. The beach to the south, known as the there are restaurants serving local seafood
and there is always a lifeguard on duty on at least “city beach,” has more facilities, including coffee specialties. A day at the beach can be combined
one. Al-Mamzar Beach and Park is open daily but shops, a pier, and a marina. The addition of the with a visit to the nearby village of Non Nuoc
Wednesdays are for women and children only. island has created a natural lagoon which is (where skilled craftspeople have been carving
popular for water sports, and the shallow white, rose, and gray marble since the 15th
waters are calm and safe – perfect for children. century), or a trip to the spectacular mountains.
Practical Information
Getting There and Around Dubai is the international flight hub of the UAE,
and its airport is just 2.5 miles (4 km) from both the city center and the Al- Practical Information Practical Information
Mamzar Beach and Park. The easiest way of getting around Dubai is by Getting There and Around Copenhagen’s international airport is 5 miles Getting There and Around There are flights from Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City,
taxi, with non-metered ones offering negotiable, often cheaper, rates. (8 km) south of the city. The beach is 8–10 mins by Metro from Nørreport Bangkok, and Singapore. Take a motorbike-taxi or cycle-rickshaw to the
When to Go Since summer maximum temperatures can reach unbearable or Kongens Nytorv stations. beach. Bargain hard and have the waiting time and return fare included.
extremes, the period from late fall to early spring (Oct–Apr) is the best When to Go Jun–Aug is ideal for a Danish beach visit (water temperatures When to Go The dry season (Feb–Aug) is the ideal time; temperatures are
time to visit. reach a comfortable 66°F/ 19°C), but it is also high season. more comfortable and, from May to Jul the sea is at its calmest.
Website www.dubai.com Website www.visitcopenhagen.com Website www.danang.gov.vn







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BEACHES






















Hang-glider’s-eye-view of the idyllic setting and tranquil waters of
Cheltenham Beach, Auckland, New Zealand
Lifeguard’s station on the stretch of sands at Gordon–Frishman
Beaches, Tel Aviv, Israel
Cheltenham Quirky beach huts adding a splash of color to Cape Town’s lovely
Muizenberg Beach, South Africa Gordon-Frishman
Beach, Auckland
Muizenberg Beaches, Tel Aviv

Beach, Cape Town
NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION Cheltenham Beach NEED TO KNOW
is situated to the east of Devonport, LOCATION The Gordon- )BJGB
a suburb of Auckland on the north "6$,-"/% NEED TO KNOW Frishman Beaches are in the
island of New Zealand
5BTNBO 4FB heart of Tel Aviv, the second- 5&- "7*7
CITY POPULATION /BQJFS LOCATION Muizenberg a largest city in Israel .FEJUFSSBOFBO
Around 1.3 million 8FMMJOHUPO beach-side suburb on False #0548"/" CITY POPULATION 4FB +FSVTBMFN
Bay, 15 miles (25 km) south
DAYTIME /&8 ;&"- "/% Around 1.1 million *43"&-
TEMPERATURES: of Cape Town /".*#*" 1SFUPSJB DAYTIME
Jan: 73°F (23°C); Apr: 66ºF $ISJTUDIVSDI 1BDJmD 0DFBO CITY POPULATION TEMPERATURES: +03%"/
(19°C); Jul: 55°F (13°C); Around 3.5 million 4065) "'3*$" Jan: 64°F (18°C); Apr: 73°F &(:15
Oct: 63°F (17°C) DAYTIME #MPFNGPOUFJO (23°C); Jul: 84°F (29°C);
TEMPERATURES %VSCBO Oct: 82°F (28°C) &JMBU
Jan: 79°F (26°C); Apr: 72°F
(22°C); Jul: 63°F (17°C); $"1& 508/
A series of beaches extends north on the eastern Oct: 70°F (21°C) 1PSU &MJ[BCFUI
side of Devonport, each with its own merits, but The whole of Tel Aviv’s west side is one long
Cheltenham Beach is the closest. Popular with beach, facing west over the Mediterranean Sea.
families on a day out from Auckland, it is a safe, This once-popular and prestigious destination for At its northern end is the Tel Aviv Marina and
tidal beach with picnic grounds. It is worth a Capetonians is experiencing a renaissance. The what was, at one stage, the Gordon Swimming
walk to North Head, a headland that actually beach lies on the Indian Ocean side of the Cape Pool, which was famous as a meeting place for
lies at the southern end of the beach. From here, Peninsula, so the waters are much warmer here Tel Aviv celebrities and other notable figures.
the spectacular panoramic views extend through than at the beaches on the Atlantic Ocean side. At the southern end is Frishman Beach, where
360 degrees across the sweeping length of The wide sweep of white sand and gentle surf is you can rent lounging chairs and umbrellas. At
Cheltenham Beach, the harbor, Rangitoto Island, ideal for families as well as surfers. Watch for the weekends the beach is a gathering place for the
and back across to Auckland. As lovely as the dolphins that sometimes come in quite close to city’s young, hip crowd. Slim, suntanned bodies
beach is, be sure you leave enough time to enjoy the shore, and the whales that pass during their pack the bars, sands, and volleyball courts, and
the trendy town of Devonport, with its beautiful migration season. At lunchtime, stroll up to the can overwhelm tourists, older locals, and families.
architecture and great cafés. popular picnic area at the northern end of the During the week things are much more peaceful.
beach, in the Zandvlei Nature Reserve. After a day of sun and sand, take a stroll along the
boardwalk, choosing a café or restaurant from
Practical Information which to enjoy a spectacular sunset view.
Getting There and Around Auckland’s international airport is 45 mins by Practical Information
road from the city. Ferry is the easiest way to get to Devonport from central Getting There and Around The international airport is 14 miles (22 km)
Auckland, then the beach is a short walk. Boats leave approximately every southeast of central Cape Town. Metro trains run from the Main Station Practical Information
30 mins from early morning until late each day, from Ferry Building to to Muizenberg. Getting There and Around Ben Gurion International Airport is 9 miles
Devonport Wharf. When to Go Summer (Nov–Mar) has the lowest rainfall and the warmest (15 km) from Tel Aviv. The beaches are steps away from most hotels.
When to Go Summer and early fall (Dec–Mar) are the best times for a weather. But the best time for whale-watching is from mid-August to When to Go Tel Aviv is at its best during summer (May–Sep), when the
visit to New Zealand. mid-October. days are usually dry and hot, but not unbearable.
Website www.tourismnorthshore.org.nz Website www.tourismcapetown.co.za Website www.telavivvisitorguide.com







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192


BEACHES FORGET WAIKĪKĪ?






THE BUILD-UP Arguably the world’s most
famous beach, Waikīkī stretches for 2 miles
(3 km) along the shoreline of southern O’ahu.
Its natural setting is magnificent, with the
Ko‘olau Mountains soaring to the rear, the
extinct volcano of Diamond Head silhouetted
to the southeast, and the sun descending each
night into the Pacific Ocean straight ahead.

Hulopo‘e THE LETDOWN Waikīkī is, however, no
timeless South Seas paradise; it is a hectic
modern resort, whose high-rise hotels sleep
100,000 guests per night, and whose bars, clubs,
restaurants, and cafés remain open around the
vs Waikīkī clock. Simply finding room to lie on the sand,
or swim in the sea, can be a problem. And with
busy Honolulu just 3 miles (5 km) west, traffic
congestion is frequently horrendous.
Hawai‘i’s Hulopo‘e Beach has everything from gorgeous golden sands and idyllic swimming,
GOING ANYWAY? To make the most of
to abundant marine life – and none of the crowds and high-rises of Waikīkī Waikīkī, throw yourself into the melee. Spend
the day sunbathing or in the ocean, surfing or
canoeing, then spend the night partying hard.
a glimpse of the ocean; the crowds of touts and And be sure to explore the rest of O’ahu, which
NEED TO KNOW
tourists jostling for position on the beach, the abounds in forests, beaches, and cultural sights.
LOCATION Hulopo‘e is on wafting smells of the all-you-can-eat bacon-and-
the south shore of the small ,BVBAJ
island of Lāna‘i, 9 miles egg buffets just a few feet away from the water.
(15 km) west of Maui -ūIVAF 0ABIV Lāna‘i is often called the “Private Island,” as it is
)POPMVMV
VISITORS PER YEAR .PMPLBAJ almost entirely owned by David H. Murdock, the
100,000 -ŔOBAJ
)"8"*A* .BVJ
DAYTIME )6-010A& former chairman of Dole, the producer of fresh
#&"$)
TEMPERATURES fruit and vegetables. After the company stopped
Jan: 71°F (22°C); Apr: 74°F 1BDJmD #JH )JMP growing pineapples here in 1992, Murdock re-
(23°C); Jul: 79°F (26°C); 0DFBO *TMBOE
Oct: 77°F (25°C) directed the island towards tourism. While the
island’s image as an upscale resort is largely ABOVE Sunbathers crowding the golden sands of Waikīkī
deserved, Hulopo‘e Beach is an exception. As with Beach, Honolulu
Most mornings, you can stroll along the rich all Hawaiian beaches, it’s always open to the public,
golden sands of delightful Hulopo‘e Beach, Lāna‘i and with regular ferries from Maui docking a few
and have the place to yourself. Oh, there’ll be a hundred yards east, access is easy.
fisherman perched out on the lava boulders of The beach itself is a gem, a gentle curve of PRACTICAL INFORMATION
the headland, or you might spot a snorkeler deep, thick sand, fringed by low kiawe trees, and
Getting There and Around Where to Stay
burrowing in and out of the rock pools. Someone demarcated to the east by the russet Mānele Cone,
Fly into Honolulu International The Asian-influenced Four Seasons
from the tiny campsite, tucked away in the nearby an extinct volcanic relic. The brisk slope of the
Airport on O’ahu, from where Resort Lāna‘i at Mānele Bay (www.
woods, might even wander down. And, of course, sand into the ocean makes it ideal for swimming, you can take a connecting flight fourseasons.com/manelebay)
the local pod of spinner dolphins will probably while the offshore reef ensures that the surf to Lāna‘i ‘s airport, which is stretches upwards from near the
swim by at some point, to play and cartwheel in seldom rises to threatening levels. By Hawaiian located 12 miles (20 km) west end of Hulopo‘e, and has a
the surf before heading back out to sea. standards, the surfing conditions are relatively northwest of Hulopo’e Beach. pool, luxury spa, and plush
Five ferries (www.go-lanai.com) rooms. The plantation-style
Now compare that with the scene at Waikīkī – tame, making this a great spot to learn under safe
ply daily from Lahaina on Maui Hotel Lāna‘i is a cheaper option.
picking your way through busy traffic simply to get conditions, or simply to play on a boogie board. to Mānele Bay, close to Hulopo‘e.
Beach equipment can be rented from a small kiosk A ferry-trip from Maui to Lāna‘i When to Go
It makes very little difference
near the west end, and the park area set back from costs around US$40.
what time of year you visit
the center holds public showers. Where to Eat Hulopo‘e Beach. From January
The whole bay forms part of a marine preserve – Lāna‘i City, 8 miles (13 km) from to April, there is slightly more
hence the dolphins – so the snorkeling conditions Hulopo‘e, has several appealing rainfall and the sea is a little
local restaurants, but the only
are superb, especially early in the day. In winter, rougher, but this is also peak
place to eat near the beach is in whale-watching season.
when humpback whales are frequently visible the Four Seasons. Its open-air
out to sea, snorkelers are also able to hear their Hulopo‘e Court restaurant Budget per Day for Two
underwater songs. An ancient Hawaiian fishing (www.fourseasons.com/ US$475 for food and
accommodations at the
village, inhabited for around 500 years, formerly manelebay) serves irresistible Four Seasons Hotel.
stood at the west end of the beach; ruined stone seafood dishes such as delicious
fresh fish steamed in banana Website
homesites are still visible in the dunes, with
leaves (laulau). www.gohawaii.com
ABOVE Snorkelers in the waters off Lana‘i explanatory placards alongside.





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193










BEACHES




















































MAIN IMAGE Aerial view showing the curving Hulopo’e Beach
BELOW (left to right) Waves washing the golden sands of
Hulopo’e; spinner dolphins leaping out of the water

4 MORE HAWAIIAN BEACHES
TO RIVAL WAIKĪKĪ

HAPUNA BEACH, BIG ISLAND OF HAWAI‘I A magnificent
stretch of pure white sand, perfect for boogie-boarding in
winter or gentle swimming in summer, far from any town,
but with a luxury hotel nearby.
KAILUA BEACH, O‘AHU Nowhere in Hawai’i is the ocean such
a dazzling turquoise as on O‘ahu’s finest beach, a fabulous day-
trip from Waikīkī.
NAPILI BAY, MAUI This delightful little beach in West Maui
offers exhilarating swimming for the entire family and, very
unusually for Hawai‘i, is lined with numerous low-key,
inexpensive hotels.
KĒ‘Ē BEACH, KAUA‘I Located at the western end of Kaua‘i’s
ravishing North Shore, this lovely little beach offers superb
snorkeling and unforgettable sunsets – the perfect way to end
your day after hiking on Hawai‘i’s finest trail, the Kalalau Trail,
which terminates alongside.







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194


BEACHES














































































MAIN IMAGE Fishing boat anchored in the clear blue water of Turtle Bay
BELOW (left to right) Green turtle, from which the bay gets its name;
archaeological site of Gedi; a mushroom-like coral formation, Turtle Bay



















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195







Turtle Bay BEACHES







vs Mombasa’s Beaches





Clear turquoise water, fantastic coral gardens, lush jungles stretching inland, and a minimum
of hassle make Turtle Bay East Africa’s most complete beach experience



This breathtaking underwater landscape teems
NEED TO KNOW
with more than 600 fish species, including brightly
&5)*01*"
LOCATION Just south of the colored parrot fish, butterfly fish, surgeonfish,
fishing village of Watamu, 62 miles -BLF
5VSLBOB
(100 km) north of Mombasa and snappers, which dance around the corals
BEACH FRONTAGE 6("/%" giving a dizzying performance, and making Kenya’s
About 4 miles (7 km) legendary landlubbing wildlife seem positively
,JTVNV ,&/:"
KEY WILDLIFE Reef fish, drab by comparison.
-BLF
marine shorebirds, golden- 7JDUPSJB
rumped elephant shrews /BJSPCJ Unsurprisingly, the bay is a snorkelers’ paradise
5635-& #":
ACTIVITIES Snorkeling, 5"/;"/*" 8"5".6 and suitable for nervous novices thanks to nearby
scuba diving, bird-watching, *OEJBO protective reefs, which ensure reliably calm water
0DFBO
exploring ruins .PNCBTB
conditions. Meanwhile, the deeper reefs farther
offshore support healthy populations of whale ABOVE Sokoke scops owls on a branch, Arabuko-Sokoke National Park
Picture a classic tropical paradise, all soft white sand, sharks, giant sea bass, and green turtles, and boast
swaying palms, and glittering aquamarine water, superb scuba-diving conditions. Deep-sea game bizarre, twitchy-nosed, golden-rumped elephant
enhanced to spectacular effect by a succession of fishing is popular in the open water beyond the shrew, and several unique bird species, including
fantastic ragged coral outcrops that explode from reefs, where anglers can try their hand at catching the endangered Amani sunbird, East Coast akalat,
the water like surrealist mushrooms. This is Turtle tuna, sailfish, marlin, and wahoo. Sokoke scops owl, and Sokoke pipit.
Bay, one of the most glorious spots on East Africa’s From the sea to the land, the exploring Hidden in the park’s tangled forest is Gedi,
long Indian Ocean coastline, where stunning continues with a day trip to Arabuko-Sokoke a “lost city” and Kenya’s most important and
natural assets and a peaceful atmosphere upstage National Park, which lies only 3 miles (5 km) inland. impressive archaeological site. Its broodingly
Mombasa’s more famous beaches at every turn. This park, which can easily be enjoyed on foot, enigmatic mosques and palaces and eerie tombs
The extraordinary coral formations that adorn protects East Africa’s largest remaining tract of and archways are all that remain of a medieval
this stretch of coast are above-surface extensions coastal forest and presents great opportunities for Swahili city-state, thought to have been home
of Kenya’s finest and most accessible coral garden, wildlife observation – scores of monkeys, baboons, to 2–3,000 people in its heyday.
which lies only 328 yards (300 m) from the shore. antelopes, and elephants live here, alongside the
PRACTICAL INFORMATION

FORGET MOMBASA’S Getting There and Around Where to Stay
Watamu village has a good
The closest international airport
BEACHES? is in Mombasa, from where there selection of budget accommoda-
are domestic flights to Malindi, tions, and the main beach
THE BUILD-UP The beaches that stretch either side of the ancient which is 9 miles (15 km) north running south of this is serviced
of Watamu. Shared taxis head by four medium-sized resort
island-bound port of Mombasa – Nyali and Bamburi to the north,
into Watamu from both Mombasa hotels. The best is Hemingways
Diani and Tiwi to the south – are the stuff of brochure-writers’
and Malindi, and private taxis (see Where to Eat), which has a
dreams. Here you’ll find idyllic arcs of white sand, calm blue waters, are also available. Most sites superlative setting and offers a
offshore reefs swirling with fish, and beach after beach refreshingly around Watamu can be reached great range of marine activities.
uncrowded by comparison to their Mediterranean counterparts. on foot or by a short taxi ride.
When to Go
Where to Eat Visit at any time except the
THE LETDOWN In a nutshell: beach boys. One of the reasons There are no stand-alone wettest months (Feb–May).
the beaches around Mombasa are so uncrowded is that most restaurants of note in Watamu,
Budget per Day for Two
visitors step out onto them once, and – having deflected a swarm but all the resort hotels serve US$200–300 – far less than this
of pushy hustlers and chancers – opt to spend the rest of their good meals, with seafood being if you’re prepared to rough it in
holidays lounging around the hotel swimming pool instead. the specialty. Particularly a local guesthouse, but a lot
ABOVE A local trying to sell his wares to tourists on a recommended are the à la carte more if you want to charter a
Mombasa beach lunch menu and sumptuous
GOING ANYWAY? The hotel swimming pools are mostly very boat for game fishing.
themed buffet dinners at
nice, and there’s usually a good range of other activities to keep things interesting – everything from table Hemingways (www. Website
tennis and diving excursions to day trips to Mombasa’s old town or the Mwaluganje Elephant Sanctuary. hemingways.co.ke). www.watamu.net







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196 5 MORE AFRICAN BEACHES TO RIVAL MOMBASA’S


BEACHES









































A local woman carrying a heavy load in the traditional manner
along the beach at Busua, Ghana
The magnificent beach at Rocktail Bay in iSimangaliso Wetland
Park, South Africa point of a trip here. The beaches, beautiful
Busua though they are, are only part of the appeal of
iSimangaliso this extraordinary wilderness, the rich biodiversity
Wetland Park he came here in 2001 (a fate from which few
NEED TO KNOW of which left Nelson Mandela spellbound when
LOCATION Busua is on the coast visitors to the park can escape).
of Ghana, 12 miles (20 km) west of #PMHBUBOHB
the main port of Sekondi-Takoradi NEED TO KNOW iSimangaliso became South Africa’s first ever
BEACH FRONTAGE About UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. It is a living
$¼5&
2 miles (3 km), though there are % *70*3& LOCATION iSimangaliso is between Eden where rhinos, elephants, leopards, sharks,
many other beaches in the area ()"/" St. Lucia village and the Mozambique
50(0 border, 171 miles (275 km) #0548"/" and whales thrive in a remarkable mosaic of
KEY WILDLIFE Green turtles, 4VOZBOJ -BLF north of Durban, South Africa
monkeys, marine birds, dolphins 7PMUB /".*#*" 1SFUPSJB natural habitats, from beach and coral reef to
BEACH FRONTAGE
ACTIVITIES Swimming, "UMBOUJD 155 miles (250 km) swamp, forest, and savanna. More than 500
walking, boat trips, visits to #646" "DDSB 0DF B O *4*."/("-*40 bird species exist here, as well as high densities
Dixcove Castle 4FLPOEJ 5BLPSBEJ KEY WILDLIFE White 8&5-"/% 1"3,
rhinos, green turtles, blue #MPFNGPOUFJO of hippo and crocodile, especially around the
monkeys, humpback whales 4065) "'3*$" %VSCBO mangrove-lined St. Lucia Estuary, which is easily
The small Atlantic coastal village of Busua is ACTIVITIES Snorkeling, scuba $BQF 5PXO explored by boat. The open waters offshore are
diving, whale- and dolphin-spotting
dominated by a beautiful, sweeping beach that legendary among game fishers, while the coral
boasts safe swimming conditions and a laid-back reefs around Sodwana – the most southerly reefs
vibe rooted in the hippy heyday of the early iSimangaliso is the largest and most ecologically in the world – are lauded by snorkelers and
1970s. A favorite spot with villagers and the varied coastal sanctuary in Africa, protecting a divers. The beaches in the north of the park are
occasional savvy traveler, the beach remains vast subtropical wetland system that stretches a vital breeding ground for marine turtles, and
one of West Africa’s most unspoiled spots. If you from the wildly beautiful St. Lucia Estuary in on a clear day, hikers might well be treated to
tire of the beach, take a trip to the nearby fishing the south to the pristine Kosi Bay in the north. the distant sight of breaching whales from the
town of Dixcove, which has some elegant A succession of spectacular and largely tops of the sand dunes.
colonial architecture, or the remote estuarine undeveloped beaches fringe the park’s eastern
villages of Butre and Akwidaa. edge, including the popular swimming spots
around St. Lucia village and the semi-deserted PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Cape Vidal, Sodwana Bay, and Rocktail Bay – Getting There The nearest international airport is in Durban. From here,
PRACTICAL INFORMATION St. Lucia village is accessible on public transportation (buses, coaches, and
wide arcs of peach-colored sand hemmed in
Getting There The closest international airport is at Accra, the capital of mini-bus taxis), and operators within the village offer a good range of day
Ghana. From here you can take a bus to Takoradi, then catch a small shared by the world’s tallest forested dunes. trips. Otherwise, the best option is to rent a car in Durban.
“tro-tro” (van) to Busua via Agona junction and Asane. It would be easy to spend two weeks in When to Go The dry southern winter (May–Sep) is more comfortable than
When to Go The most comfortable period covers the relatively cool and iSimangaliso, beach-hopping from south to north the sweaty summer. Whale-watching is best from June to October, and
less humid months (Oct–Apr). Avoid the wettest months (May–Jun). with a stash of paperbacks, a collapsible umbrella, bird-watching from November to March.
Website www.touringghana.com and a large towel. But this would be missing the Website www.kznwildlife.com







3/12/08 15:22:18
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BEACHES





















Seating area made from an old dhow at the beachside Saadani Safari
Lodge, Saadani National Park, Tanzania
Balcony at the Peponi Hotel, Shela Beach, Lamu Island, Kenya
Shela Beach, Bwejuu Beach on the island of Zanzibar, Tanzania Saadani

Lamu Island East Coast of National Park

Zanzibar
NEED TO KNOW NEED TO KNOW
-BL
-BLFF
LOCATION Lamu Island is &5)*01*" LOCATION Saadani is on the 7 7JDUPSJBJDUPSJB ,&/:""
,&/:
in the Lamu archipelago, just -BLF NEED TO KNOW north coast of Tanzania, 96 miles
off the Kenyan coast, 217 miles 5VSLBOB (155 km) north of Dar es Salaam
-BLF
(350 km) north of Mombasa LOCATION Zanzibar lies about 7JDUPSJB ,&/:" BEACH FRONTAGE
4""%
19 miles (30 km) off the central ,JHPNBJHPNB 4""%"/*"/*
,
6("/%"
/"
BEACH FRONTAGE ,&/:" coast of Tanzania About 22 miles (35 km) /"5*0/"- 1"3,5*0/"- 1"3,
7 miles (12 km)
%PEPNB
,JTVNV BEACH FRONTAGE KEY WILDLIFE %PEPNB
KEY WILDLIFE Dolphins, -BLF 4)&-" #&"$) About 50 miles (80 km) ,JHPNB Elephants, hippos, crocodiles, 4BMBBN
%BS FT
%BS FT
4BMBBN
turtles, carmine bee-eaters 7JDUPSJB /BJSPCJ -".6 ;"/;*#"3 marine turtles, dolphins 5 5"/;"/*""/;"/*"
KEY WILDLIFE Kirk’s red %PEPNB
ACTIVITIES Snorkeling, colobus monkeys, green turtles, %BS FT ACTIVITIES Swimming,
-JOEJ
diving, exploring old towns, 5"/;"/*" .BMJOEJ *OEJBO dolphins, colorful reef fish 5"/;"/*" 4BMBBN boat safari, game drives, ; ;".#*"".#*" -JOEJ
-BL
-BLFF
island-hopping, bird-watching .PNCBTB 0DFBO nature trails, bird-watching /ZBTBBTB
/Z
ACTIVITIES Snorkeling, scuba
diving, forest nature trails, whale- ;".#*" -JOEJ
-BLF
and dolphin-spotting, bird-watching /ZBTB
The focal point of Lamu Island is the eponymous Long, lush, and serviced by just two small and
town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a rich exclusive tented camps, the seafront of Saadani
architectural heritage and cultural integrity that The east coast of Zanzibar isn’t the place to go National Park boasts dozens of beautiful beaches
make it unique among the medieval Swahili for bland, international beach-resort luxury. and is a great spot for swimming, snorkeling, and
ports that survive into the modern era. Only a Although its sandy palm-lined beaches are as sunbathing. There really is no better destination
45-minute walk from town lies Shela Beach, a idyllic as they come, the east coast offers visitors for discerning travelers looking for a true African
fabulous sweep of bone-white sand that fulfills much more than just pretty beaches. The seafront beach wilderness – a stunning palm-lined beach
every expectation of a tropical beach nirvana. is studded with traditional Swahili villages, where you have a good chance of encountering
This is one of the few East African beaches to including Bwejuu, Paje, and Jambiani, each one creatures as diverse as eagles and giant turtles,
lack a protective reef, and although swimming smaller and more rustically somnambulant than lions and dolphins, seagulls and hippos, and
is usually safe here, the sea is refreshingly lively. the one before, making it a great place to giraffes and jellyfish. What makes Saadani –
The nearby Peponi Hotel, which has been run experience rural Africa on its own terms. In which bills itself as “where the beach meets
by the same family for 40 years, is the ideal keeping with this, accommodations tend to be the bush” – even more special is that it is one of
place for a drink or a fresh seafood meal after low rise, low key, low impact, and low cost – it’s the only places on the planet where snoozing
a day on the beach. the ideal place to relax after a costly safari. Look sunbathers might conceivably be interrupted
out for the endangered Kirk’s red colobus, a by a beachcombing elephant.
fringed monkey endemic to Zanzibar.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Getting There Regular scheduled and chartered light aircraft flights link PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Nairobi, Mombasa, and Malindi to Lamu Island. The airstrip is on nearby PRACTICAL INFORMATION Getting There Most visitors fly here either from Dar es Salaam or Zanzibar.
Manda Island, from which point motorized dhows cross the channel to Getting There Several flights connect Dar es Salaam and Arusha, both of The park can be approached by rough roads from Tanga via Pangani or
Lamu itself. The town and beach are easily explored on foot. which are on the mainland, to Zanzibar Town, from where it is easy to from Dar es Salaam via Chalinze. Activities in the park are organized by
When to Go After the rainy season in May and June, the weather gets arrange a transfer or taxi to the east coast. Ferries also depart every day for the camps.
progressively finer. Christmas and New Year offer constant sunshine and the island between Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar Town. When to Go Visit Saadani at any time of year, though the rainy season,
pleasant offshore breezes. When to Go Any time except the rainy season (Mar–May). which runs from March to May, is best avoided.
Website www.lamuheritage.com Website www.tanzaniatouristboard.com Website www.tanzaniaparks.com
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198


BEACHES






FORGET TULUM?


THE BUILD-UP It’s not difficult to see why
the crowds first flocked to Tulum with its
picturesque stretch of coastline and evocative
Mayan ruins overlooking the Caribbean Sea.
THE LETDOWN An astonishing 11 million
visitors arrive every year in the small Mexican
state of Quintana Roo, a sizeable proportion of
whom visit Tulum to view the Mayan ruins,
Mexico’s third-most-visited archaeological site.
Tulum may not be Cancún, that poster child for
over-developed Caribbean resorts, but the latter
ABOVE Columns of the Temple of Isis towering over the ruins of Sabratha is just a short drive away and its tour buses spill
beside the Mediterranean, Libya
daily into Tulum. You’ll spend most of your
Sabratha full pantheon of Roman divinities, traces of the before everyone else discovered it.
time lamenting the fact that you didn’t visit
city’s Phoenician origins, and ancient Greek
vs Tulum inscriptions litter the site within its Byzantine-era GOING ANYWAY? Whatever you do, stay in
Tulum itself. Once the day-trippers return to
wall. Together they form an extraordinary seaside
monument to the great civilizations of Cancún, find a secluded vantage point in the
expansive Mayan ruins of Zamá, close to sunset
Sabratha’s beaches, lined with ancient Mediterranean antiquity. – this is the moment when you’ll most
It was from Sabratha’s port, alongside its small
temples, are a quiet contrast to Tulum understand Tulum’s charm.
beach, that ships set sail for ancient Rome, laden
with olive oil destined for Roman tables and
elephants earmarked for gladiatorial conquests.
NEED TO KNOW
Sabratha ranked among Rome’s most prosperous
LOCATION Sabratha lies .FEJUFSSBOFBO cities on African soil, and for all its claims of fealty
50 miles (80 km) east of the 56/*4*" 4FB
Libyan capital, Tripoli, along 4"#3"5)" to the gods, was known for its devotion to the cult
the Mediterranean coast of of excess – in the Seaward Baths that overlook the
northwestern Libya 4VSU
beach and the broad sweep of coastline, fragments
VISITORS PER YEAR &(:15
-*#:" of mosaic and marble peer out from beneath
Around 60,000
(IÈU
DAYTIME centuries’ accumulation of sand and footprints.
TEMPERATURES Jan: "M ,VGSBI On the sandy beach itself, it doesn’t take much ABOVE Visitors touring the archaeological site of the Mayan
54°F (10°C); Apr: 66°F (19°C); /*(&3 ruins at Tulum, Mexico
Jul: 82°F (28°C); Oct 75°F (24°C) $)"% imagination to visualize yourself surrounded by
toga-clad Romans enjoying the warm, southern
Mediterranean sun. Once in the water, the view
If Sabratha were anywhere but in Libya, this is exceptional – here stand the impressive
pristine coastline would be overrun by resorts of Corinthian columns of the Temple of Isis, the
the kind that spoil your view at almost every turn goddess of seafarers, on a promontory away to the PRACTICAL INFORMATION
in Tulum, Mexico. This is Tulum as it used to be, east; there, the three-story fortress-like walls of
Getting There and Around Where to Stay
before it was discovered by the packaged tour Sabratha’s theater, one of the most exquisite The nearest international airport Most travelers visit Sabratha as
crowd – a sweeping coastline of white sand and structures in the ancient Roman empire. is at Tripoli. Although buses and a day trip from Tripoli, not least
waters of transparent turquoise. As the Romans knew, swimming here is one of shared taxis run regularly because the former has few
All along the coast from Tripoli to Zuara, with the great bathing experiences on earth, not least between Tripoli and Sabratha, habitable hotels. A fine choice
visas for Libya are only possible among many in Tripoli is Zumit
Sabratha at its midpoint, empty roads lead down because Sabratha is how all seaside resorts once
as part of a guided tour in which Hotel (www.zumithotel.com).
to empty beaches. There are built-up areas and were, albeit a very long time ago. all transportation is included.
even occasional half-hearted approximations of When to Go
Where to Eat May–Sep offers great swimming
resorts, but such places are rare and overflow in Restaurants catering to tourists weather, but the heat outside
summer with Libyan families, not sun-starved across Libya serve banquet-style the water can be oppressive.
Europeans. Elsewhere along this often-deserted meals that include soup, salad, Milder temperatures make
coast, you could spend an entire day on the beach and a local main course, usually Oct–Apr more agreeable.
rice or couscous with meat or fish.
and not see another living soul. Budget per Day for Two
Mat’am Bawady (tel. +218 24
The only exception to this rule is a pretty 620 224) is a good option. The Your visit to Sabratha, including
special one. In Sabratha itself, the Roman city of best place to eat in the capital is accommodations and meals, will
the same name dominates the Mediterranean Tripoli’s fish market – you simply be included in the cost of your
guided tour while in Libya.
shoreline, a forest of columns in light sandstone select your fresh seafood and
have it cooked in a popular Website
rising from the sandy soil where other, more
restaurant in the market area. www.arkno.com
famous beaches have palm trees. Temples to the ABOVE Detail of the floor mosaic in the Seaward Bath ruins





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199












FORGET BEACHES
MONTEZUMA?

THE BUILD-UP A favorite of budget travelers,
this laid-back village is an idyll for those who
love paradise on a budget. The once sleepy
fishing hamlet fronts a rocky cove and has a
gorgeous wave-washed beach to the east.
Visitors can choose from a variety of activities,
from ATV rides to waterfall rappels. Cabo
Blanco Absolute Nature Reserve is nearby.
Manzanillo ABOVE Idyllic, palm-fringed Punta Uva beach, located between Puerto THE LETDOWN With so many backpackers,

Montezuma has a bit of a “hippy” aura, and
Viejo and Manzanillo, Talamanca province, Costa Rica
Beach among at least 350 bird species here. And you’re much of the budget lodging leaves a lot to be
desired. Swimming in the ocean is dangerous
sure to see coatis, sloths, and monkeys galore. The due to riptides. Much of Cabo Blanco Absolute
Nature Reserve is off-limits, and if you miss the
vs Montezuma Beach refuge extends out to sea, protecting coral reefs bus, it’s a long walk.
teeming with colorful fish, a treat for snorkelers
Manzanillo, with its youthful edge, is replacing and divers. The watery world is also a breeding GOING ANYWAY? Carry sturdy footwear for
Montezuma as a hotspot for offbeat travel ground for tarpons and snooks – feisty gamefish hiking the trails in Cabo Blanco Absolute
that give anglers a rod-bending thrill to remember. Nature Reserve and come prepared for rain. Do
There’s even a fishing lodge in the heart of the not clamber up La Cascada, the waterfall west
refuge. A local cooperative offers guided hikes and of Montezuma, as several people have slipped
NEED TO KNOW
horse-riding along well-marked trails, as well as and died doing so.
LOCATION Manzanillo /*$"3"(6" canoe trips through the snakelike creeks.
is located on Costa Rica’s
Caribbean coast, close to -JCFSJB Although accommodations in Manzanillo are
the Panama border $BSJCCFBO budget-focused, the access road from Puerto Viejo
$045" 3*$" 4F B
POPULATION 1,000
4BO +PTÏ is lined with several diverse options, from safari-
VISITORS PER YEAR style tent camps to deluxe modernist eco-lodges
35,000 .POUF[VNB ."/;"/*--0
#&"$)
DAYTIME with spas and fine-dining restaurants. Surfers are
1 BDJmD 1VFSUP
TEMPERATURES Jan: 0 D FBO &TDPOEJEP 1"/"." drawn to the challenge of nearby Salsa Brava,
77°F (25°C); Apr: 79°F (26°C); where massive waves can reach heights of up
Jul: 79°F (26°C); Oct: 79°F (26°C)
to 33 ft (10 m). And the Crazy Monkey Canopy
Ride is guaranteed to give you an adrenaline
The fishing hamlets of Montezuma, on the Pacific boost as you whizz through the forest along a ABOVE Backpackers on a colorful street in the village
Coast, and Manzanillo, on the Caribbean, are zipline slung between trees. of Montezuma
gateways to two of Costa Rica’s premier wildlife Unlike on the Pacific Coast, local inhabitants
reserves. Montezuma has been the nation’s include Afro-Caribbeans, descendants of Jamaican
unofficial offbeat travel capital for more than two immigrants who have infused local culture with
decades. But Manzanillo now has the more reggae music and spicy cuisine, and the local
youthful edge, and its taupe, palm-shaded beach dialect with a lilting patois. Uniquely, Manzanillo is PRACTICAL INFORMATION
backed by forested mountains is more than equal also a base for exploring the indigenous reserves of
Getting There and Around Tent Camp (tel. +506 759
in beauty to the legendary sands of Montezuma. the Bribrí and Cabecar native people.
Juan Santamaría International 9056), with safari-style luxury
Manzanillo was virtually unknown until barely a Airport is 12 miles (20 km) west huts on stilts in the forest
decade ago, when a road finally linked this sleepy of San José. From here, regular behind the beach.
village to the outside world. The pavement peters buses connect to Puerto Viejo de When to Go
Talamanca on the Caribbean
out here, close to the border with Panama and Rain is a possibility at any time
coast. Buses depart Puerto Viejo
abutting the Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge, of the year, but September to
for Manzanillo four times daily.
a tropical fantasia protecting a precious rain forest, Jeep taxis can also be hired. November and February to
mangroves, and swamps. Where to Eat April are the best times to pay a
Four species of marine turtles crawl ashore to The beachfront Restaurante-Bar visit, when the chances of
lay their eggs in the soft sands of the beach. The Maxi (tel. +506 759 9086) rainfall are less.
lagoons and estuaries are a habitat for endangered serves seafood and típico (Costa Budget per Day for Two
Rican) dishes on the sands. US$140 includes food, travel,
manatees, and a rare dolphin species – the tucuxí –
Where to Stay and accommodations.
cavorts in these waters. Tapirs often wallow in the
The best accommodations in Website
swampy pools, where crocodiles and caimans Manzanillo is Almonds & Coral www.visitcostarica.com
slosh about in the mud. Toucans and parrots are ABOVE A cluster of green turtles on the soft sands of Manzanillo






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BEACHES BEACHES








Ihuru







ABOVE Vacationers flock into the azure waters of Maya Bay
vs Ko Phi Phi FORGET KO PHI PHI?
on Ko Phi Phi, while tour boats buzz back and forth



THE BUILD-UP When travelers first started
They may have filmed The Beach on Ko Phi Phi, but it can’t be a fantasy island combing the Thai islands for the perfect beach,
Ko Phi Phi ticked all the right boxes. Hidden
getaway if you have to share it with a crowd – Ihuru is the real desert-island deal by a curtain of cliffs, Maya Bay was the perfect
place to escape from prying eyes and indulge in
some island escapism.
you can get. Basking beneath the palm trees, the
NEED TO KNOW
swish villas of the Angsana Maldives Ihuru Resort & THE LETDOWN The Beach was the fantasy –
*IBWBOEJQQPMIV
LOCATION Ihuru lies in the "UPMM Spa are a favorite of the fashion set, who come here Maya Bay is the reality. These days, its enclosed
Kaafu Atoll, in the northern lagoon is a magnet for sea-borne litter and tour
Maldives, 8 miles (13 km) )PSTCVSHI 'BBEIJQQPMIV to be pampered by expert practitioners in the spa,
"UPMM "UPMM boats whizz across the short stretch of water
from the capital, Malé
*OEJBO or left alone to rock gently on a Maldivian swing in
0DFBO *)636 between Ko Phi Phi and Phi Phi Leh
SIZE Ihuru is only 490 ft "SJ "UPMM .BMÏ front of an empty stretch of sand.
(150 m) in diameter all day, undermining the castaway vibe.
."-%*7&4 There is an interesting parallel between the
DAYTIME ,PMIVNBEVMV
TEMPERATURES "UPMM )BEIEIVONBUIJ two islands. Both saw visitor numbers dive after
"UPMM GOING ANYWAY? Ko Phi Phi has bounced
Jan: 86°F (30°C); Apr: 88°F
4PVUI )VWBEIV *OEJBO the 2004 tsunami but, while Ko Phi Phi responded back impressively from the Christmas 2004
(31°C); Jul: 88°F (31°C); "UPMM 0DFBO
Oct: 86°F (30°C) to the disaster with yet more resort developments, tsunami. Reconstruction and new building has
Ihuru stayed true to its desert island roots. It is focused on smaller, more intimate bays, rather
luxurious, certainly, but the resort buildings and than the heavily-developed beaches along the
When you close your eyes and picture the perfect villas are scattered like fallen coconuts between the sandy central isthmus of the island. Among the
island paradise, do you imagine an ocean of beach palms, and the first footprints on the beach every best of the new developments are secluded
towels and the thumpety-thump of outboard morning will probably be your own. The whole resorts on Hat Laem Thong and Ao Lo Bakao.
motors? Almost certainly not. There are four purpose of an island getaway is being able to get
essential ingredients for an island retreat – sand, away from it all – who wants to get away from it all
sea, peace, and seclusion – and Ihuru has them all. with everybody else?
This is a proper desert island: the only noise comes
from surf breaking over the distant reefs and the
rustle of palm fronds, and the only reason to stir is PRACTICAL INFORMATION
the incoming tide. Thailand’s Ko Phi Phi has the
Getting There and Around When to Go
surf and the palm fronds, of course, but
Fly to Malé International Airport The seasons in the Maldives
the constant flow of tour boats is the nautical on Hulhule Island. From here are dictated by the southwest
equivalent of rush hour in downtown Bangkok. it’s a 20-minute speedboat ride monsoon, which soaks the
Formed from the tip of a submerged volcano, to the island. islands with rain from May
Ihuru is not so much an island as a beach with shade. Where to Eat to October. December to March
is the most popular time to
Set in its own mini-atoll, the island is a single copse The chefs here prepare delicious
dishes using local fish and visit, but those in the know
of palm trees, ringed by icing-sugar sand. Ihuru does choose the “shoulder” season
seafood combined with sauces
not have beaches (plural) – the whole island is a from the Maldives, Asia, and (Apr and Nov) when the weather
beach, fringed by a turquoise lagoon of warm water the Mediterranean. The Riveli is balmy and the water as clear
and encircled by a sheltering curtain wall of reefs. You restaurant is spread out under as Evian.
may well want to explore its breathtaking undersea the stars, but you can go one Budget per Day for Two
step further with your own Assume on paying around
world, or you might just prefer to doze beneath a
private table beside the surf. US$550, including
palm tree or stroll along the sand. There’s no pressure accommodations and three
Where to Stay
– which is rather the point of coming here. gourmet meals. Alcoholic drinks,
Guests at the Angsana Maldives
Under the Maldives’ unique model for tourism, Ihuru Resort & Spa stay in pampering in the spa, and dive
every developed island is home to a single, self- elegant but understated thatched trips around the atolls are extra.
contained resort. Compare that to Ko Phi Phi, villas that spill out onto the For example, a 2-hour
beach beneath a canopy of palm aromatherapy massage is US$85.
where poorly-planned resorts are springing up
trees. Of the 45 villas, 20 have Websites
like mushrooms after April showers. On Ihuru, the
open-air jet pools. www.angsana.com/ihuru/index.
accommodations are as private and secluded as




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BEACHES
BEACHES



















































MAIN IMAGE Thatched jetty of the Angsana Resort on Ihuru
BELOW (left to right) Colorful coral reef, ideal for diving and snorkeling;
relaxing in a hammock at the beach; small boat on the shore

4 MORE ISLAND GETAWAYS
TO RIVAL KO PHI PHI

RADHANAGAR BEACH, HAVELOCK ISLAND, ANDAMAN
ISLANDS, INDIA Brigands and British governors used to walk
the sands of this tiny dot in the Bay of Bengal. You just might
encounter a swimming elephant as you snorkel round the reefs.
GOLDEN BEACH, NORTH CYPRUS Little has changed in
North Cyprus since the island was divided in 1974. More turtle
tracks than footprints mark the sands on this 10-mile (17-km)
stretch of beach on the remote Karpas peninsula.
SANDAY, ORKNEY, SCOTLAND Imagine an island 1 mile (2 km)
wide by 12 miles (20 km) long, encircled by white sand and the
warm waters of the Gulf Stream. . . in Scotland. Remote Sanday
comes into its own in summer – think of it as Hawaii with haggis.
KO TARUTAO, THAILAND Preserved as an island prison, and
now a national park, wonderful Ko Tarutao has seen none of the
development that has marred other Thai islands. Apart from
national park bungalows, all you’ll find here is jungle and beach.






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BEACHES FORGET COAST




GUARD BEACH?


THE BUILD-UP Coast Guard Beach near
Eastham is Cape Cod’s finest stretch of beach
and is regularly ranked as one of USA’s best.
This broad, windswept beach, bounded by large
dunes and marshes and overlooked by a historic
Coast Guard Station, is a favorite seaside retreat
Isle of Harris with Bostonians.


THE LETDOWN The peak season extends from
the last Monday in May to the first Monday in
Beaches September, but it can also be busy in spring and
fall. In summer, prices can shoot sky high and
the parking lot is closed, so you have to rely on
a shuttle bus to get here. 4WD drivers have to
vs Coast Guard Beach, apply for an ORV sticker.

GOING ANYWAY? Brace yourself for the
Cape Cod crowds and you can have a good vacation. Coast
Guard Beach is a great place for the family, with
lifeguards on hand. It is also one of the cape’s
best surfing beaches. The spit offers excellent
Coast Guard Beach is the most stunning of Cape Cod beaches, but for a peaceful experience hiking, with walking paths revealing stunning
scenery and rich wildlife. The end of the spit is
in an equally spectacular location, seek out the Isle of Harris in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides ideal for bird-watching and seal-spotting.



broad expanse of machair (coastal grassland)
NEED TO KNOW
comes into view. Beyond is the wide Luskentyre
LOCATION The Isle of Harris Estuary backed by brooding mountains. On a clear
is in the Outer Hebrides, off the
*4-& 0'
coast of northwest Scotland, UK summer’s day, the scene takes on the colors of a
"UMBOUJD )"33*4
VISITORS PER YEAR 0DFBO Caribbean island, the pale-cream sand gleaming in
&EJOCVSHI
26,000 (MBTHPX the clear sunlight beside a turquoise ocean broken
/PSUI
DAYTIME 4FB by rolling surf. This being Scotland, it won’t be as ABOVE Sunbathers crowding the sands of Coast Guard Beach
TEMPERATURES .BODIFTUFS in Cape Cod
Jan: 37°F (4°C); Apr: 46°F (8°C); *3&-"/% 6/*5&% warm as the Caribbean, nor even Cape Cod, but
Jul: 61°F (16°C); Oct: 46°F (8°C); ,*/(%0. the fresh breeze will feel invigorating, and chances
Summer temperatures -POEPO
occasionally exceed 86°F (30°C) are you won’t see a soul here all day.
If you can tear yourself away from Seilebost,
it’s worth exploring the island. Across the bay from
Coast Guard Beach in Cape Cod, USA, may well be Seilebost is the beautiful Luskentyre Beach, and
blessed with mile upon mile of golden sand and farther south along the west coast are Scarista and PRACTICAL INFORMATION
brushed by Atlantic breezes, but for much of the Northton. Stop off to see the interesting medieval
Getting There and Around superb seafood. Try Scarista
year, it heaves beneath the weight of urban St. Clement’s Church at Rodel, the megalithic
Getting to Harris can seem like a House, Scarista (www.scarista
weekenders and hordes of tourists traipsing along MacLeod standing stone at Nisabost, and Seallam pilgrimage. You can fly to house.com) – also a hotel – for
the New England trail. If you truly want to get away Genealogy Research Centre, where Celtic expats Stornoway Airport on the Isle of wonderful traditional cuisine.
from it all, then head for the Outer Hebrides in the can rediscover their roots. Alternatively, drive north Lewis, then rent a car (www. Where to Stay
extreme west of Scotland – you can’t get much along a spectacular coastal road towards stornowaycarhire.co.uk) and Accommodations includes B&Bs,
drive the 27 miles (44 km) to
more remote than these rugged islands. Hushinish, which takes you right past the front guesthouses, cottages, self-
Tarbert, Harris. Flights depart
Like Cape Cod, the Isle of Harris has some of door of Amhuinnsuidhe Castle (pronounced “avan- from Edinburgh, Glasgow, catering, and boutique hotels.
the finest beaches you’ll see, yet the Scots manage soo-ee”), a stately baronial manor nestled between Aberdeen, Inverness, and Privately owned Hotel Hebrides
in Tarbert (www.macleodmotel.
to keep theirs relatively secret. Strung out along the ocean and mountains. Continue north and Benbecula. Alternatively, take com) has plush rooms and is an
the island’s southwestern coast, these jewels you reach the Isle of Lewis, where the highlights your car across on the ferry from ideal base to explore the island.
Uig, on the Isle of Skye, to
shimmer beside the roaring Atlantic Ocean – and include the magnificent Callanish standing stones. When to Go
Tarbert, or from the Isle of
one of the biggest diamonds in the chain is Harris is an outdoor enthusiast’s dream. It offers Berneray to Leverburgh in the July and August are the warmest
Seilebost. Approaching by road from the fishing some of the best climbing, hiking, fishing, and south of Harris (Caledonian months. Many places and
port of Tarbert, Harris’s main town, you traverse a surfing in the UK. There is a wonderful golf course MacBrayne: www.calmac.co.uk) facilities close during Oct–Apr.
glaciated moonscape of ancient rock exposed beside Scarista Beach, and it harbors a dazzling Where to Eat Budget per Day for Two
between peat bogs and clumps of heather, array of wildlife, including whales, dolphins, seals, Though they’re readily available, US$325, including food,
Scottish food isn’t all haggis, accommodations, and rental car.
passing only the occasional stone crofter’s cottage. puffins, and golden eagles. But whether you are an
neeps, and tatties. Other dishes Website
At the tiny settlement of Seilebost, a seemingly active type or a sedentary beach-lover, a trip to
made from local produce include www.visitscotland.com
endless spit flanked by high tufted dunes and a Harris will be more than a match for Cape Cod.





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MAIN IMAGE Waves breaking on a beach on the coast of the Isle of
Harris in the Outer Hebrides, Scotland BELOW (left to right) A pair
of puffins native to the region; stately Amhuinnsuidhe Castle

4 MORE BEACHES TO RIVAL
COAST GUARD BEACH

OCRACOKE ISLAND, NORTH CAROLINA, USA This 16-mile-
(27-km-) long island on the east coast is one of the most
remote on the Outer Banks. It can only be reached by ferry or
private plane so its windswept beaches are blissfully empty.
WINEGLASS BAY, TASMANIA, AUSTRALIA A brilliant azure
bay on the east coast of Tasmania, Wineglass Bay is scooped
out in a perfect semi-circle from pink granite mountains.
Temptations for outdoor adventurers include bushwalking,
fishing, sea-kayaking, and wilderness camping.
SOPOT BEACH, GDANSK, POLAND In summer, locals flock
to this Baltic wonderland close to the city of Gdansk to soak up
the sun and hang out before partying in nearby bars and clubs.
DOG’S BAY, COUNTY GALWAY, IRELAND Tucked away
in wild Connemara, this sheltered bay is one of Ireland’s
undisputed gems. Its dazzling white-shell sand seems to have
been made for taking a solitary stroll.







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BEACHES




























































MAIN IMAGE Sailing boats on a white-sand beach at Punta del Este
BELOW (left to right) The distinctive, whitewashed Casa Pueblo; aerial
view of the beach-lined resort

4 MORE PARTY BEACHES TO
RIVAL COPACABANA

PUERTO ESCONDIDO, OAXACA, MEXICO Tired of the mega-
hotels and commercialism of Vallarta and Acapulco? Puerto
Escondido (meaning “hidden port”) is, as its name implies, off
the beaten track, but it still boasts a great party scene.
SOUTH BEACH, MIAMI, FLORIDA The young and beautiful
now call South Beach home more than any other beach in the
USA. The nightlife (and beach life) here is second to none and
the time to visit is now, before it achieves superstar status.
COZUMEL, YUCATÁN PENINSULA, MEXICO If you want (or
can stand) non-stop partying for the 30-and-under set, then
look no further than this year-long party island, which is on the
“quiet” side of Mexico’s most famous resort, Cancún.
SALINAS, SANTA ELENA PROVINCE, ECUADOR A relative
newcomer to the beach-party sweepstakes, Salinas is an up-
and-coming South American destination for those who want
fun in the sun, away from the usual suspects.







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Punta del Este BEACHES








vs Copacabana




Thanks to myriad things to do in addition to the ever-present party scene, Uruguay’s elite Punta del Este
has the lead over fabled Copacabana when it comes to attracting the fun-loving set





do. Activities range from sailing and surfing to Argentinians, North Americans, and Europeans
NEED TO KNOW
horse-riding, archery, and volleyball. There’s a looking for the good life now head to Punta del
LOCATION Punta del Este
"3(&/5*/" casino, a lighthouse, and the iconic Casa Pueblo, Este instead of their own resorts, which aren’t
occupies a peninsula in southern
Uruguay, which is 86 miles an extraordinary house and “living sculpture” built exactly second-class spots themselves.
(139 km) east of the capital, 3JWFSB #3";*- over a 36-year period by the Uruguayan painter Punta del Este has year-round appeal. In the
Montevideo
5BDVBSFNCØ and sculptor Carlos Páez Vilaró. Close by there’s high season, which runs from December to March,
POPULATION
70,000 also an aquarium, a zoo, several quaint seaside the resort’s classy clubs and popular beaches host
DAYTIME 636(6": towns, and picturesque hills that boast fantastic endless parties, which rarely begin before midnight,
TEMPERATURES trekking routes. In fact, it’s likely that there are and the atmosphere is electric. There’s no shortage
Jan: 77°F (25°C); Apr: 68°F (20°C); 16/5"
Jul: 57°F (14°C); Oct: 63°F (17°C) .POUFWJEFP %&- &45& more things to do in and around Punta del Este of glitterati types here, drawn by the alluring beach
than any other resort in Latin America. and party lifestyle. The crowd is a mix of the young
But don’t let these sights and activities distract and beautiful, who frequent the beaches and bars,
For decades, Punta del Este has been a haven for you for too long from the resort’s stunning beaches. a wealthy, older generation in their yachts, and
the rich and famous. This glamorous resort – a It is here, perhaps more than anywhere else, that energetic types, who spend their time on the water
collection of fabulous beaches, elegant hotels, and Punta del Este really shines. There are more than and in the hills. In the off-season, the resort might
stylish restaurants, clubs, and bars – has long been a dozen beaches on this fashionable peninsula, be quieter, but it remains enticing. Those who long
synonymous with champagne, celebrities, and all of which have a very different character. Take for the wild nights of summer should not despair –
fashion chic, but at the same time has remained your pick from white- and golden-sand beaches, there’s still plenty of partying to do at this time just
firmly grounded, attracting visitors from all walks sheltered coves and wave-battered shores, water- up the coast in Buenos Aires and Montevideo.
of life. Unlike Rio de Janeiro’s Copacabana beach, sports hubs and sunbathing areas, secluded bays Whether you’re in search of high times and endless
which these days has few cards to play, Punta del and party beaches. Even the rowdiest beaches are nights, solitude and surf, or anything in between,
Este manages to combine serious partying and a clean and safe, day and night, and all boast excellent you can’t do better than Punta del Este.
carefree attitude with plentiful things to see and facilities. It’s no surprise that savvy Brazilians,
PRACTICAL INFORMATION

FORGET COPACABANA? Getting There and Around It’s everything you could imagine
and more, right on the coast
It couldn’t be easier to reach
Punta del Este. Rent a car in and yet tucked away from the
THE BUILD-UP Rio de Janeiro’s Copacabana, known for its
Montevideo, which has an crowds. Book at least three
golden arc of sand and glitzy beach lifestyle, is probably the
international airport, and head months in advance.
most famous beach on the planet. Other beaches boasting east on the motorway. You’ll When to Go
fun, sun, and sand have to compete with its legendary be there in 2 hours or less. Punta del Este’s high season is
reputation, and more often than not come up short.
Where to Eat between December and March,
Punta del Este has restaurants when it is most crowded. A
THE LETDOWN In recent years, Copacabana’s reputation for every budget and taste. For better option is to visit in either
has suffered greatly. It has rampant crime (generally theft), the best international cuisine October and November or
polluted water, beach vendors who are difficult to fend off, and people-watching in an April and May, when it is less
overcrowding, and – for women – a likelihood of receiving elegant, hip setting, try the expensive and less crowded.
male attention, whether desired or not. award-winning Novecento Budget per Day for Two
(www.bistronovecento.com), You should allocate at least
GOING ANYWAY? If you do go, choose the right stretch of but reserve well ahead. US$300 per day to travel here in
beach for you. Some spots are ideal for surfing but nothing Where to Stay style; Punta del Este may not be
else, others are family-oriented and others are good just for The epitome of luxury in Punta cheap, but it’s worth every
sunbathing, but none are chic and all are crowded. Leave your del Este these days is the penny spent.
ABOVE Aerial view of the crowds on Copacabana,
jewelry, watches, cell phones, and cameras in your hotel. Rio de Janeiro, Brazil sophisticated Mantra Resort Website
(www.mantraresort.com). www.vivapunta.com/en/index







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BEACHES





























ABOVE Aerial view of the bright-turquoise Aitutaki Lagoon, Cook Islands
RIGHT The smooth gray rocks and calm water of Anse Source d’Argent, La Digue, Seychelles


AITUTAKI, COOK ISLANDS At one corner of a triangular lagoon in the South Pacific sits ANSE SOURCE D’ARGENT, LA DIGUE, SEYCHELLES Probably the most photographed
Aitutaki, the most idyllic of the Cook Islands. The lagoon is peppered with 14 motu – small beach in the world, Anse Source d’Argent is the stuff of tropical-island fantasy. A series of
volcanic and coral islets – which offer some great snorkeling and diving opportunities. small, crescent-shaped, pink-sand beaches are separated by huge, smooth granite boulders
There’s plenty to do away from the beaches, too. Attempt the spectacular climb up Munga worn into weird and wonderful shapes by the waves and the wind. The water is turquoise
Poo, Aitutaki’s highest point, enjoying the renowned local hula dancing and local grilled and shallow and protected by an offshore reef, so it is safe for children and non-swimmers.
fish at villages along the way. There are plenty of affordable accommodations next to the A ferry takes you from the main island, Mahé, to a nearby jetty, and from here a 10-minute
pristine beaches on the island, and a boat tour around the lagoon is a must. bike or ox-cart ride will bring you to the start of a short footpath leading to the beach.



ANSE LA ROCHE, GRENADA, ARAMBOL BEACH, GOA, INDIA BAAN MAI, KOH LONE, THAILAND Traditional long-tail boats cross the water south from
CARIBBEAN An unspoiled curve of sand The atmosphere at Arambol is distinctly Phuket to Koh Lone Island (the trip takes 15–20 minutes), where a small boutique hotel is
with wooded hills rising up behind it, Anse laid back: wake up in a bamboo hut just nestled within dense tropical foliage. There are also wooden bungalows a stone’s throw
la Roche is an idyllic place. Here, your only footsteps from the shore and share the from the shore, with verandas from which you can watch spellbinding sunsets. The
company will be the pelicans that sit on a sunrise with a few scuttling crabs. Don’t atmosphere at Baan Mai is quiet and relaxing. Should you want to rouse yourself into
rocky outcrop offshore, diving elegantly miss the beach’s freshwater lake and mud some activity, there are kayaks for rent and snorkeling trips to a nearby coral island. There
every now and then in search of fish. baths with purported healing properties. is also a boat service to an adjacent beach, which is very good for swimming.


BARLEYCOVE BEACH, CORK, IRELAND BANGARAM BEACH, LAKSHADWEEP QUEEN’S BEACH, MONTENEGRO
Between two craggy headlands on the ISLANDS, INDIA This teardrop of lush Queen Milena of Montenegro so loved
Mizen Peninsula, Barleycove is a remote green coconut palms fringed by creamy this beach that it was named for her.
horseshoe of golden sand. A bracing walk sand in the warm waters of the Indian Sheltered by pine-clad cliffs and lapped
in the fresh Atlantic air takes you to nearby Ocean is uninhabited, with the exception by the clear waters of the Adriatic Sea,
Mizen Head, Ireland’s most southwesterly of one low-key resort. Bangaram Island is the beach affords the ultimate rose-
point. The region has some of the country’s surrounded by a lagoon, and its main tinted view every evening as the sun sets
best weather, but the beach is rarely busy, beach boasts wonderful snorkeling, with on its pink-sand shores. Unspoiled and
though the sea is sometimes flecked abundant puffer, parrot, angel, and clown relatively inaccessible, this is one of the
with surfers enjoying the large waves. fish, as well as manta rays and moray eels. Mediterranean’s more appealing refuges.


CATHEDRAL COVE, NEW ZEALAND WHITE BEACH, BORACAY, THE BIG BUDDHA BEACH, KO SAMUI,
North Island’s Coromandel Peninsula is PHILIPPINES This 3-mile (5-km) stretch THAILAND This 2-mile (3-km) stretch of
an ecological paradise renowned for its of pristine sand lined with swaying palms beach gets its name from the 12-ft- (4-m-)
marine wildlife and beaches, the most is frequently voted one of the world’s best tall statue that watches over it from the
beautiful of which is Cathedral Cove. beaches. Boracay, which is 4 miles (6 km) east. The temple here is a pilgrimage site,
Whether taking the coastal path from long and half-a-mile (1 km) at its narrowest but most visitors come for the sand, sea,
Hahei or arriving by boat or kayak, time point, has many other bays scattered along and nightlife. Big Buddha Beach slips down
a visit here with low tide for the essential its shores. There are fantastic views of the into clear, protected waters and is backed
photo opportunity under the spectacular beaches and the deep ocean beyond from by low palms and hotels, restaurants, and
limestone archway that divides the beach. Mount Luho, the island’s highest point. bars, which come alive at night.








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ABOVE Sixteenth-century Lindisfarne Castle, romantically perched atop a rocky bluff known as Beblowe
Crag at Holy Island, Northumberland, UK


HOLY ISLAND, NORTHUMBERLAND, UK Holy Island, also known as Lindisfarne, lies off LLANDUDNO BEACH, CAPE TOWN, MAJAHUITAS, MEXICO Majahuitas is just
the coast of northeast England and is accessible only via a paved causeway at low tide. It’s SOUTH AFRICA Shy neighbor of glitzy a short boat ride off Mexico’s coast, but it
a wild, remote place, fringed by miles of golden beaches with fascinating rock pools and Clifton and Camps Bay beaches, Llandudno feels like another world. This palm-fringed
rolling dunes. The main beach is lined with upturned fishing vessels, which were once is the local in-the-know choice for post- beach is backed by wooded hills and
part of a 19th-century herring fleet and now serve as work sheds. Also on the island are work sundowners. The picturesque sandy accessible only by boat. Here, manta rays
the ruins of a 7th-century Benedictine priory and a 16th-century castle, built in defense sweep is heaven for surfers and the perfect and dolphins swim gracefully, pelicans dive
of England against the Scots. Only 160 people live here, and the pace of life is slow. spot for a cold beer as the sun sets. for food, and parakeets sit in mango trees.



LOPES MENDEZ, ILHA GRANDE, BRAZIL MONKEY BAY, TIOMAN ISLAND, MALAYSIA Tioman, the largest of the volcanic islands
Lopes Mendez, a stunning 2-mile (3-km) off the east coast of peninsular Malaysia, comprises 44 sq miles (115 sq km) of dense
stretch of white sand that is so bright you jungle and three towering peaks. A hike through the rain forest from the main tourist
have to squint as you make your way across hub at Salang will lead you to Monkey Bay; you’re likely to see the eponymous monkeys,
it, is the highlight of this lush island. The who can get a little territorial, along the way. This secluded yellow-sand beach is a great
beach is buffeted by the Atlantic, but the place to spend the day snorkeling or picnicking. Many visitors choose to arrive by ferry
water is shallow and safe for bathing. from Mersing on the mainland, a 1–2 hour journey, depending on the boat.


INGONISH BEACH, CANADA Ingonish Beach on Cape Breton Island in Nova Scotia is JOST VAN DYKE ISLAND, BRITISH NOIRMOUTIER, FRANCE The west coast
not your average beach, but a temporary bank of sand that is swept away every winter VIRGIN ISLANDS The south of this island of this island is dominated by great curves
by waves and redeposited in the spring, creating a barrier between the sea and a lake. is home to coconut-fringed White Beach of golden sand, while its northern Atlantic
Time your trip right (Mar–Apr), and expect both salt- and fresh-water swimming, and and the Soggy Dollar Bar – the perfect shores are home to craggy cliffs, secluded
access to a wealth of marine life, including lobsters, salmon, and trout – rich pickings for place to sip a rum cocktail at sunset. The bays, and creeks. This small island lies
anyone keen on fishing. The unusual beach is part of Cape Breton Highlands National north is craggy and deep and great 3 miles (5 km) from the mainland and can
Park, a wilderness area that provides opportunities for many outdoor pursuits, such as snorkeling territory. Just 200 people live be reached by the Passage du Gois, which
hiking, canoeing, and whale-watching. And it goes without saying that this majestic on the island, principally in Great becomes submerged at high tide. Don’t
place is a camper’s dream – Cape Breton Island sits on the dramatic eastern seaboard Harbour, where smells of freshly baked miss the island’s 12th-century castle and
and offers visitors a surprising amount to do for somewhere so far off the beaten track. banana bread waft down the streets. church, once a Benedictine priory.


KUATA ISLAND, FIJI Southernmost in BOSLUISBAII, NAMIBIA It’s sand upon PLAYA DE CABO DE GATA, ALMEÍRA
the Yasawa archipelago, tiny Kuata Island sand as beach meets desert in the north In contrast to much of Spain’s overcrowded
is technically the easiest one to reach corner of Namibia’s Skeleton Coast, so- coastline, the southeast coast of Almería
from Fiji’s main island, Viti Levu. However, called because of its treacherous currents remains relatively neglected by tourists.
most maps of the Yasawas don’t even and resultant shipwrecks (see also p115). The region has volcanic terrain, and many
feature Kuata and it certainly isn’t what As you’d imagine, swimming is impossible undiscovered beaches lie tucked beneath
you’d call overcrowded. The best beach is here, and because special permission is its craggy cliffs. Most impressive is Playa
at Likunivisawa Point, but the whole required to access Bosluisbaii, your party de Cabo de Gata, a 3-mile (5-km) beach
island is enchanting, with its fine-white will be the only one there. This is a beach that is buffeted by open sea. You’re unlikely
sand, dramatic volcanic ridges, and caves. for fans of rugged, raw beauty. to see many other people here.








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BEACHES





























ABOVE Picturesque Nungwi in Zanzibar, with its clear, bright-blue water and elegant dhows
RIGHT Lone bather in the calm, shallow sea at Palawan, the Philippines


NUNGWI, ZANZIBAR The twinkling sapphire water of the Indian Ocean tempts you PALAWAN, PHILIPPINES Palawan, an island province comprising one main island and
on the long, hot drive to Nungwi, which lies on the northernmost tip of Zanzibar. But thousands of smaller islets and outcrops, is located between Mindoro in the Philippines
it’ll be worth the uncomfortable journey; the sand is so fine it squeaks between your and Borneo in Malaysia. It is an area of extraordinary natural beauty, its sloping white-
toes as you walk and the calm water off the beach stretches out to a wide coral reef. sand beaches slipping down into still turquoise waters, and towering forested cliffs
Most visitors are happy just to kick back on the beach, watching from beneath a shady jutting dramatically into the ocean. The main island is long and narrow, and surrounded
palm as fishermen cast their nets from wooden dhows. But if you want a change of by coral and limestone offshore reefs. With over 1,000 miles (1,600 km) of coastline here,
scene, visit nearby Stone Town, with its winding streets and eclectic architecture. you are bound to find your own little piece of paradise.



DAYMER BAY, CORNWALL, UK Pretty CORONADO BEACH, SAN DIEGO, CAPE MAY, NEW JERSEY, USA Visitors always fall in love with Cape May, a resort with a
Daymer Bay lies in a sheltered position at CALIFORNIA, USA Swimming, volleyball, lovely, blustery beach met by the cool waters of the Atlantic, and rows of Victorian town
the mouth of the Camel Estuary, and is a and kite-surfing are the popular activities houses that recall a bygone era of vacationing on the coast. The town was settled by
great place for swimming and windsurfing. on this wide stretch of sand. Crowds fishermen and whalers in the mid-19th century, and it became a popular resort for city-
Walk along the nearby coast path from gather here to watch fiery-red sunsets dwellers on summer weekends. This is still the case today, though the area has remained
Polzeath to St Enodoc, passing the church and, from January to March, the gray remarkably unspoiled. Beach-goers come here to relax on the sand, try their hand at
where poet John Betjeman was laid to rest. whale migration south to Baja California. sailing, and watch dolphins playing in the gentle surf.


MATIRA BEACH, BORA BORA The lush DON DAENG ISLAND, LAOS Sit sipping EMERALD BAY, PANGKOR LAUT,
island of Bora Bora, which juts impressively coconut milk on the sandy, quiet beaches MALAYSIA Just off the west coast of
into the South Pacific, is fringed on the of this river island, beneath steeply rising Malaysia, in the Straits of Malacca, lies the
south and east with white sandy beaches. mountains. Don Daeng, on the Mekong, picture-postcard island of Pangkor Laut.
Matira, with its shallow turquoise water is an enclave of traditional culture, where On its western shores lies Emerald Bay, a
protected by an offshore lagoon, is locals go about their work fishing, flawless white-sand beach, with bowing
undoubtedly the most scenic of these. farming, and weaving. Staying as part of palms and tepid green waters. Trace
Stop at one of the beach bars to try the the community is a highlight; local turtle footprints in the sand and watch
delicate local poisson cru – raw fish families put guests up in their homes and crabs scuttle across the beach from one
marinated in lime and coconut milk. serve up steaming portions of fresh fish. of the comfortable sun loungers here.


ESSAOUIRA, MOROCCO The laid-back GRAYTON BEACH, FLORIDA, USA MORNE ROUGE, ST GEORGE’S,
charms of this small coastal town attracted The Florida Panhandle Gulf Coast stretches GRENADA Pretty Morne Rouge is one of
a hippie crowd during the 1970s, and for 200 miles (320 km) and boasts lovely the most secluded beaches in Grenada.
today pulls in backpackers and windsurfers. white-sand beaches, freshwater lakes, and There is plenty of natural shade beneath
Essaouira is known for its 6-mile (10-km) undulating dunes. Grayton Beach, a broad palms here, and the water is warm, calm,
beach, popular with locals for barefoot sweep of quartz-white sand lapped by and shallow. Boss Reef, 2 miles (3 km)
football and evening strolls. The town calm, warm Gulf waters, regularly features offshore, is popular with snorkelers, but
also has a lively fishing port. Spend a day high in rankings of the nation’s top otherwise there are few activities on offer;
in the medina here, or walking along the beaches. Grayton Beach State Park offers it’s a place to relax. The nearest town of
ramparts overlooking the bay. nature trails, hiking, biking, and camping. L’Anse aux Epines is only a short walk away.








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ABOVE Beautifully sculpted natural archway in the shallow water at Spiaggia del Principe, Sardinia
LEFT The dazzling, bright-white moonscape and vivid azure sea at Sarakíniko Beach, Mílos, Greece


SARAKÍNIKO BEACH, MÍLOS, GREECE The volcanic island of Mílos might be best SPIAGGIA DEL PRINCIPE, SARDINIA, ITALY Sardinia’s Emerald Coast, or Costa Smeralda,
known for the ancient statue of Venus de Milo that was found here in 1820 (now housed is known for being home to some of the best beaches in the Mediterranean. A drive along
in the Louvre in Paris), but it also has a dramatic landscape and over 70 glorious beaches. the winding coastal road, stopping occasionally to take in the wind-sculpted rocks that
The spectacular island forms a horseshoe around a clear central gulf in the Aegean Sea. emerge from the glittery turquoise sea, is a great way to see the coast. Linger at Spiaggia
The bay at Sarakíniko, on the north coast, is formed of great white pumice rocks, which del Principe, a white-sand bay sandwiched between pink granite rocks and divided into
have been smoothed by wind and rain over millions of years. There is a small sandy two sheltered beaches by a rock wall. The beach may have become an exclusive holiday
beach here, and it’s a popular spot for swimming and snorkeling. spot, but it remains relatively hidden, accessible only by a 10-minute walk down a dirt track.



PORTO DE GALINHAS, BRAZIL This HANALEI BAY, KAUA‘I, HAWAI‘I Hawai‘i is JOATINGA BEACH, BRAZIL As the coast
low-key resort in sunny Pernambuco is not short of great beaches, but Hanalei Bay, stretches south of Rio de Janeiro, the
known for its natural tide pools that form on Kaua‘i, is one of the most beautiful. This beaches become more beautiful and
in the reefs just a short distance offshore. 2-mile (3-km) crescent stretches from the secluded. Dense Atlantic forest dips into
These heat up in the sun and are ideal for base of a sheer cliff at one end to a craggy the ocean at Joatinga, which is sheltered
swimming and snorkeling. To the south is bluff at the other, and is backed by lush on both sides by towering rocky outcrops.
Maracaipu, a great beach for surfing. mountains that collect the morning mist. Surfers come here for the big swell.


TAYRONA, COLOMBIA Take a taxi to the Tyrona National Park visitor center, and from MURI LAGOON, RARATONGA, COOK LUKA KORCULANSKA, CROATIA The
there, travel on horseback along a dense jungle path, teeming with swinging titi monkeys. ISLANDS Surrounded by a lagoon that sandy beach at Luka Korculanska protrudes
You’ll soon emerge on Arrecife Beach, a crescent of cream sand, where the wild ocean stretches to an offshore reef, and with into the clear waters of the Adriatic on a
crashes against huge boulders. This is a magnificent beach, but a dangerous place to forest-clad mountainous ridges, Raratonga wooded peninsula. It bustles with local
swim. Follow a series of precipitous paths through the forest, over rickety bridges, and is the most dramatic of the Cook Islands. families, the air filled with smells from
you’ll come to some calmer bays where you can submerge yourself in the Caribbean. Muri Lagoon, to the southeast of the island, open-air grills and food stalls. The beach
Despite a recent tourism boom, the infrastructure in Tayrona remains undeveloped, and boasts a beautiful stretch of pristine sand. is a leisurely 15-minute walk or a short boat
you are unlikely to see many other visitors. The nearest town is Santa Marta, a half-hour From here, you can paddle into the shallow ride from Korcula. This picturesque town,
drive away, and flights from Bogotá take just over an hour. There are some budget water to the uninhabited islets beyond, with its winding flower-filled alleys, is
cabañas on the beach, and a more upmarket eco-resort in the mountains. which are excellent for snorkeling. encircled by 14th-century fortress walls.


LAS ISLAS CIES, GALICIA, SPAIN These OFU BEACH, AMERICAN SAMOA The OXWICH BAY, GOWER, UK The Gower Peninsula in Wales, which juts into the Bristol
three granite islands are a far cry from the jagged, forested peaks of Piumfa and Channel, has a coastline pitted with secluded bays, rocky bluffs, and sweeps of golden
Costa del Sol. They are isolated, wildly Sunuitao mountains loom over the 2- sand. Oxwich is a 2½-mile (4-km) sandy stretch, backed by dunes and a salt marsh,
beautiful, and buffeted by the Atlantic at mile (3-km) stretch of coral sand on Ofu and is popular year-round for windsurfing, sailing, and water-skiing. The quietest part of
the mouth of the Vigo River. The steep Island’s south coast. The offshore reef is the bay is on the eastern side, at Nicholaston Burrows. If you have time, walk on the coast
cliffs on their western shores feel the full home to 150 species of coral and 300 path to Oxwich Point, from which point there are great views back over the bay.
force of the ocean, while the eastern coast species of fish, but you’ll need to bring
is gentler, with rolling sand dunes, and your own snorkeling equipment if you
calm waters. Glorious Praia das Roadas is want to see them – there is little in the
found here, its dunes sheltering a lagoon. way of tourist infrastructure here.








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sports and activities




Sea kayaking in the calm, glacier-studded waters of Prince William Sound, Alaska (p238)







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SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES Kicking Horse




















vs Whistler




If you want your skiing steep, deep, and powdery, forget the oft-visited, rain-drenched ski runs of Whistler and
head east into the frosty splendor of Kicking Horse, Canada’s coolest ski resort



even has the finest mountain restaurant in Canada, Mounties and grizzly bears. The resort’s satellite
NEED TO KNOW
when you need a break from the action. You can town of Golden may not live up to its name, but it
LOCATION Kicking Horse is set sit in said Eagle’s Eye Restaurant at a height of is a utilitarian blue-collar logging town that is far
amid high mountains and forests
above the Columbia River Valley 7,700 ft (2,350 m), gaze out across the snow-draped removed from the glamor that defines much of
and the town of Golden in Selkirk, Purcell, Kootenay, and Rocky Mountain Whistler (so much the better, some might say).
southeastern British Columbia
ranges and wonder about all the fuss over the The real gold however, lies 7 miles (11 km)
SKIABLE AREA $ "/"%"
4 sq miles (11 sq km) ,*$,*/( )034& big guy to the west. uphill from Golden, where Kicking Horse’s small
SEASON Dec–Apr 7BODPVWFS $BMHBSZ Whistler may have vast amounts of terrain and selection of recently built hotels, bars, and
0UUBXB
ACCESSIBILITY Roads are 5PSPOUP the famous big vertical, but who wants to ski if restaurants greets you, and the powder-white
well maintained, although access 6 4 " it’s raining on the lower slopes and draped in bulks of the 8,035-ft (2,450-m) Blue Heaven and
may be difficult in snowy conditions
clouds on the upper slopes? Kicking Horse is the 7,900-ft (2,410-m) Terminator Peak loom above.
skier’s ski resort – the focus is on those wanting From these radiate a series of ridges from which
For years, Whistler has been the big boy of the to push themselves on challenging terrain, where deep chutes descend, attracting keen skiers from
Canadian ski scene, and with its hosting of the the skiing comes first and everything else, from all over the world. Almost every run off the two
2010 Winter Olympics, that situation is unlikely to nightlife to ease of access, is secondary. And, main ridges, CPR and Redemption, is a double
change soon. Yet, on the opposite side of British because of its ideal location, you often get the black diamond and the exciting descents that they
Columbia (BC), there is a far smaller resort which light, dry snowfall referred to as “champagne offer take you into snowy bowls, where a good,
proves that big isn’t necessarily best. powder,” which is great for skiing. hard turn will see the powder arcing over your
Kicking Horse, in the Canadian Rockies, has Just getting here is a mini adventure in itself – shoulder into a long, dry plume that hangs in the
skiing that will challenge the very best, is surrounded the spectacular drive from Calgary takes you air for several seconds after you’ve passed by.
by classic mountain wilderness and, to top it all, through the kind of scenery that was made for Who wouldn’t travel to the other side of British
Columbia for all that?

FORGET WHISTLER? PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Getting There and Around Where to Stay
THE BUILD-UP Huge vertical, a massive off-piste area, great lift The nearest international airport The award-winning Copper
system and buzzing nightlife make Whistler one of the world’s is at Calgary, about a 3-hour Lodge (www.kickinghorseresort.
most popular ski resorts – you’ll literally encounter skiers and drive to Golden. Shuttle services com) is boutique hotel
boarders from every corner of the globe on the resort’s slopes. from the airport to the resort are accommodations at its best, and
also available. The road is well it’s just a short walk from the
THE LETDOWN Being so popular means it’s often busy on the maintained but the drive may be Golden Eagle Express Gondola.
lifts, on the slopes, and in the bars and restaurants. So if you like difficult in heavy snow.
When to Go
peace and quiet, this may not be for you. Whistler is located Where to Eat The season runs Dec–Apr. Skiing
relatively close to the Pacific Coast, which means the frequent The dining is just adequate, is possible before and after the
snowfalls here can be heavy in every sense of the word. While except at Eagle’s Eye Restaurant “official” season, but there will
bluebird days and powder are not uncommon, you may also (www.kickinghorseresort.com). be no lift access.
spend day after day under leaden skies and maybe even rain. Located at the mountaintop and Budget per Day for Two
only accessible via the Golden
ABOVE Skiing enthusiasts parking their skis outside a Eagle Express Gondola, this is an US$280 including food, lift pass,
GOING ANYWAY? Travel outside peak holiday periods to avoid busy mountain restaurant at Whistler absolute must for its sensational ski rentals, and lessons.
the crowds; plan for alternative activities, should the weather locally produced food and Website
turn bad. Fortunately, Whistler has heaps of options. magnificent views. www.kickinghorseresort.com








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SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES






















































MAIN IMAGE Skier enjoying the view from one of Kicking Horse’s
ridges BELOW (left to right) Scenic view of Kicking Horse River with
mountain; a steep ski run; interior of the Eagle’s Eye Restaurant
























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214 5 MORE SKI RESORTS TO RIVAL WHISTLER


SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES






































People lining up for the ski lift on a snow-covered mountain slope at
Voss resort, Norway
Voss



NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION Voss is in the heart of the
spectacular fjord country of southern Norway
SKIABLE AREA 24 miles (40 km) /BSWJL
of marked runs, a good range of /PSUI
backcountry and a network of 4FB
48&%&/
cross-country ski trails
SEASON Nov–Apr 5SPOEIFJN Skiing through glorious powder past a stand of snow-covered trees,
Record Ridge, Red Mountain Ski Resort, Canada
/038":
ACCESSIBILITY
Good road access and the 7044 0TMP
Bergen-Oslo train stops Red Mountain
in town
NEED TO KNOW
Voss is a relatively small resort, but there’s enough discover the exact line again. So blessed with
here to occupy anyone for a week. The mix of LOCATION Red Mountain is in perfect lines is Red Mountain, that it’s easy to
southern British Columbia (BC), above
downhill runs accessed by the cute red cable car the former mining town of Rossland believe the story.
from the center of the town is surprisingly varied SKIABLE AREA The hill sits perfectly with the resort’s satellite
and offers sublime sunset views across the 3 sq miles (7 sq km) $ "/"%" town of Rossland, a characterful old gold-mining
region’s pastel-shaded whaleback mountains, SEASON Nov–Apr town populated by equally colorful characters.
which have a real “call of the wild” feel about ACCESSIBILITY 7BODPVWFS 3&% .06/5"*/ The hill is slowly being developed, but there has
Vancouver is 8 hours 0UUBXB
them. There is also a vast network of cross- away by road and 4QPLBOF 5PSPOUP been a genuine effort on behalf of the owners
country trails emanating from the town. Calgary 6. The nearest airports are at 6 4 " to maintain its old-school feel.
Spokane in Washington and Kelowna, BC
As well as skiing, visitors can also enjoy a Although growing in popularity, Red
spectacular winter rail journey to the shores of Mountain is still an overlooked destination. If you
mighty Sognefjord. With so much to do, you Red Mountain is something of a testing ground – want a challenge and like to wallow in knee-deep
won’t easily get bored at this lakeside resort. say you’ve skied here and your coolness powder, a skiing trip here is a must.
coefficient rises exponentially (no need to
mention the fact that you fell down the steep
Practical Information Practical Information
slope and bounced off the trees).
Getting There and Around There are regular trains to and from Bergen Getting There and Around The most convenient access is from Spokane
(approximately 1 hour) and Oslo (5–6 hours). Road access from Bergen is Along with its steeps and, more especially its International Airport, which is about 2½ hours south. There’s a shuttle
also good in all but the worst weather. trees, Red is also famous for the lavish helpings of service from Rossland.
When to Go Nov–Apr. It is possible to ski after this but lift access may not British Columbian powder that it gets. There’s an When to Go Nov–Apr. February is the busiest. It’s quite feasible to ski well
be available. apocryphal tale of the local who once found the after April if you don’t mind hiking up the mountain.
Website www.visitvoss.no perfect tree run here, but was never able to Website www.redresort.com







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SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES















A group of visitors enjoying the natural hot springs in the freezing
winter at Kamchatka, Russia
A snowboarder performing a stunt spinning over mountain peaks at Skiers on the magnificent snow-covered slopes of Åre, Sweden’s
Sainte Foy, France Kamchatka number-one ski resort
Sainte Foy NEED TO KNOW Åre


LOCATION Kamchatka is in the
NEED TO KNOW volcanic “Ring of Fire” region on the NEED TO KNOW
Pacific Ocean’s edge in Eastern
LOCATION Sainte Foy 6/*5&% Siberia, Russia LOCATION Åre is 390 miles
,*/(%0. -JMMF
is in Tarentaise Valley above (630 km) north of Stockholm and
SKIABLE AREA About :BLVUTL /PSUI
Bourg St Maurice 3644*" 210 miles (350 km) south of the 4FB -VMFB
1BSJT 4USBTCPVSH 96,500 sq miles (250,000 sq
SKIABLE AREA kms), although most of the .BHBEBO Arctic Circle, and sits above a
Over 15 miles (25 km) of '3"/$& terrain is unexplored ,".$)"5," collection of linked villages ¯3& '*/-"/%
groomed trails and a large 48*5;&3-"/% $)*/" 1FUSPQBWMPWTL SKIABLE AREA Around 48&%&/
“off-piste” backcountry area #BZ PG SEASON Apr–May 60 miles (100 km) of runs, /038":
#JTDBZ 4"*/5& '0: *5"-: ACCESSIBILITY Slopes can 1BDJmD
SEASON Dec–Apr #PSEFBVY be accessed by helicopter or long hikes +"1"/ 0 D FBO and extensive off-trail 4UPDLIPMN
ACCESSIBILITY .BSTFJMMF SEASON Early Nov–early May (ÚUFCPSH
Excellent road and rail access ACCESSIBILITY Good road, #BMUJD
4FB
via Bourg St Maurice 41"*/ .FEJUFSSBOFBO rail and air links
4FB
Skiing in Kamchatka is an almost surreal
experience. Many of the peaks your battered Mi-8
Don’t be fooled by the fact that Sainte Foy has a helicopter will drop you on have steam issuing Above Åre’s attractive pastel houses and shining
mere 15 miles (25 km) of ruins, for the backcountry from cracks in their flanks; active volcanoes dot lake lies the best lift-accessed skiing in
in this recently developed Alpine resort is extensive, the landscape and at the end of your run, you Scandinavia, with something for everyone. Those
challenging, and relatively crowd-free, especially might find yourself on a black-sand beach that skiers wanting to leave the runs, in particular, will
compared to popular neighbors such as Les Arcs is being pounded by Pacific breaks. You may spot love the options here, including a great snowcat-
and Tignes. And it’s great for snowboarders. grizzly bears and sea eagles while skiing, and accessed run from the 4,660-ft (1,420-m) summit
It pays to get in with the locals in order to can easily clock up over 30,000 ft (11,000 m) of of Åreskutan. There’s also a fine array of novice
discover the best riding. Many of them will hike vertical per day. And it’s not unusual to wind it and intermediate runs, allowing skiers and
from the top of the lifts to lay down fresh tracks far all up at the end of the day sipping Russian snowboarders of all abilities to enjoy a trip to
away from skiers who are not in the know. But even “champagne” in a natural hot spring, easily Scandinavia, the home of skiing.
without local knowledge, you’ll enjoy some of the making Kamchatka the ski trip of a lifetime. Late-season skiing can be sublime as the sun
finest and most open terrain in the Alps here, rarely sinks beneath the horizon. And if you like to
especially late in the season. party hard, Åre provides plenty of entertainment.
Practical Information
Getting There and Around The only practical means of accessing
Practical Information Kamchatka is from the Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky international airport, Practical Information
Getting There and Around There are excellent road links to the nearest which is 9 hours from Moscow. Accommodations are in the regional Getting There and Around Östersund airport is 11/2 hours away and there
airports, Chambéry and Lyon, although the journey may take longer in bad capital of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. Hotels are basic by western are good road and rail links with all Sweden’s major cities. However, snow
weather. Eurostar service to Bourg St. Maurice operates through the winter. standards. You will have to bring all your own ski gear and spares as may make road access difficult.
When to Go Dec–Apr. Late season has almost empty runs, longer days, nothing is available in the town. When to Go February onward – midwinter has short days and is very cold.
and warmer weather. When to Go Apr–May, as midwinter weather is too unpredictable. Late season is often best due to longer days and uncrowded slopes.
Website www.saintefoy.net Website www.eaheli.com Website www.skistar.com







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216


SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES FORGET THE




LONDON
MARATHON?


THE BUILD-UP London is undoubtedly one
of the world’s top marathons, in terms of its
number of competitors, and for the top-ranking
The Paris
runners it attracts. Begun in 1981, it has since
with cheering supporters from start to finish.

THE LETDOWN London has become a victim
Marathon built up a huge following, with the streets lined
of its own success. Competition for getting in is
high – almost 100,000 applicants for 50,000
accepted places. Moreover, as most of the course
is on relatively narrow roads, you become
hemmed in, which can be frustrating and
vs the London Marathon energy-sapping when you’re trying to get into a
rhythm and keep up your planned pace.

GOING ANYWAY? If you don’t get into
Running the Paris marathon instead of London means broad boulevards instead of London at first, keep trying, as they guarantee
narrow streets – and an inspiring start in the looming shadow of the Arc de Triomphe a place if you apply five years in a row. To get
around the congestion problem, try to worm
your way to the front of your section. When
the race starts, zig-zag through firmly but
Blessed with a beautiful setting, with its broad
NEED TO KNOW sportingly. Or wear a giant hedgehog suit –
avenues ideal for mass runners, Paris is certainly no
6/*5&% that’ll soon clear the pack!
ROUTE Head down the ,*/(%0. -JMMF second-best alternative to London. Unlike London,
Champs-Elysées, around the
Place de la Concorde and 1"3*4 4USBTCPVSH which starts on the eastern outskirts, the Paris
east, looping around the Bois marathon begins and ends in the city center, so
de Vincennes. Return to the '3"/$&
centrer and finish on Ave Foch, 48*5;&3-"/% you’ll be running along wide boulevards and
behind the Arc de Triomphe -ZPO passing famous Parisian landmarks. What could
*5"-:
ENTRY DEADLINE End Jan #PSEFBVY match the excitement of beginning a marathon
RACE DATE First Sun in April .BSTFJMMF at the top of the Champs-Elysées, with the Arc de
NUMBER OF
41"*/ Triomphe behind you and an endless wave of
ENTRANTS 37,000
some 35,000 runners before you as you set off into
the rising sun?
London may be host to one of the most famous As you head east, the surreal sight of an
marathons in the world, but Paris can offer runners artificial mountain at the Bois de Vincennes zoo ABOVE The streets of London crowded with thousands of
the same big-city buzz without the uncertainty of looms on the horizon. Twists and turns through runners at the London Marathon
getting a place. Unlike London, which sometimes leafy parkland here give a welcome break from the
has as many as eight applicants for each place, any long straight avenues. The crowds are thinner too;
potential participant will virtually be guaranteed a a few suburban dog-walkers look on bemused as
place in the Paris marathon. Both races take place you bound – or by now trudge – through the trees.
in April, with similarly mild weather, so many This of course, being Paris, refreshments are PRACTICAL INFORMATION
runners who unsuccessfully tried for London head plentiful; bananas and oranges are the official
to Paris instead. offering, though look out for the wine and cheese Getting There and Around at lunchtime, the main meal
stand at around the 21-mile (35-km) mark. Paris’ main airport is Roissy of the day in France. It is
Charles de Gaulle, some 17 miles usually a good-value and tasty
Supporters en route are numerous, though they
(27 km) north of the city. option. Try Chez Gladines, which
are, for the most part, markedly laid-back in typical International train links to serves excellent meals (tel. +33
Parisian style. It’s the entertainers who provide Paris are good; Eurostar 1 45 80 70 10).
more risqué fun: from a gay mariachi band – men (www.eurostar.com) serves the Where to Stay
in fake moustaches wearing pink tutus – to UK via the EuroTunnel, with a Résidence Lord Byron is located
2 ½-hour journey from London’s
cheerleaders in giant squirrel costumes. two blocks from the Champs-
St Pancras to Paris Gare du Nord.
Your 26-mile (42-km) tour takes you past On the morning of the Elysées (www.escapade-paris.
some famous Parisian landmarks, including the marathon, the nearest Métro com/fr).
Place de la Concorde, Rue Rivoli, Place de la Bastille, station is Charles de Gaulle Budget per Person per Day
and Avenue de Versailles, ending up back near the Etoile; if it’s too packed, try Approximately US$150,
Argentine or George V. including food, transportation,
Arc de Triomphe. and accommodations.
Here, at last, you can stop, enjoy the free Where to Eat
If you are planning on eating Website
massage, and wait while your loved ones do their
out, go for the plat du jour www.parismarathon.com
ABOVE Athletes racing out of the Alma Tunnel in Paris own jostling through the pack to find you.






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SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES








































MAIN IMAGE Participants running along the Champs-Elysées
BELOW (left to right) Runners beside the Seine; competitors
at Place de la Bastille

4 MORE MARATHONS TO
RIVAL LONDON

EVEREST MARATHON, NEPAL The highest marathon in the
world at 17,000 ft (5,180 m). Runners even have to walk up to
the start at Gorak Shep, which helps acclimatize to the oxygen-
depleted air. Held in November (www.everestmarathon.org.uk).
ATHENS, GREECE The original first run, from Marathon to the
Greek capital held in 490 BC. Unlike the heroic Phidippides,
today’s runners don’t do this marathon in full military gear. Hot
and hilly, every November (www.athensmarathon.com).
ICE MARATHON, ANTARCTICA Try running 26 miles (42 km)
in -20°C (-4°F), buffeted by katabatic winds, at a 10,000-ft
(3,050-m) altitude and a few hundred miles from the South
Pole. Madness, every December (www.icemarathon.com).
TWO OCEANS, SOUTH AFRICA This 35-mile (56-km) ultra-
marathon, the “world’s most beautiful marathon,” links both
the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. Held on the Saturday of Easter
weekend (www.twooceansmarathon.org.za).







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SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES Salsa in Havana FORGET TANGO IN




BUENOS AIRES?


THE BUILD-UP The capital of Argentina has
plenty of European sophistication and style,
and tango, the melancholic dance that evolved
in the brothels of 19th-century Buenos Aires,
draws many visitors to the city. Several first-
vs Tango in Buenos Aires
evening, dancers perform in the streets of San
Telmo and many studios teach you the moves.

THE LETDOWN Tango in Buenos Aires feels
Tango in Buenos Aires pales in comparison to the spicy-hot salsa popular in Havana, class restaurants host tango shows in the
like a well-worn cliché. The dance form’s
with an evocative colonial ambience and vivacious nightlife as the perfect backdrop explosion of popularity has resulted in a flood
of foreigners. The barrio (quarter) of San Telmo
gets crowded with gawking tourists, especially
recent salsa craze that’s both energetic and when cruise ships are in town. And dance
NEED TO KNOW studios are often packed with tourists on
innovative. Buenos Aires and tango seem tame in
LOCATION Havana is on the comparison. If salsa whets your appetite for dance, learn-to-dance package vacations.
northern coast of western Cuba, 6 4 "
90 miles (150 km) south of Key why not also try rumba, the African soul of Cuban GOING ANYWAY? When you’re done
West, Florida #")"."4 music. Its dance rhythms can be either sensual and
)"7"/" watching public tango in San Telmo, just pick
POPULATION 2.1 million dynamic, or slow and sad.
4BOUB $MBSB up a free copy of El Tangauta for a listing of
VISITORS PER YEAR 1JOBS And who better to teach you the complicated
800,000 EFM 3JP $6#" tango clubs. Take time to browse the barrio’s
-BT 5VOBT steps than Cubans themselves, deemed the antiques markets. In summer, sit out the midday
DAYTIME
TEMPERATURES $BSJCCFBO 4 FB world’s finest dancers? Several hotels in Havana heat in one of the city’s shady parks.
Jan: 72°F (22°C); Apr: 76°F +"."*$" offer classes, as do local troupes and freelancing
(25°C); Jul: 82°F (28°C); Oct: 79°F (26°C)
tutors. You can also sign up for package tours that
teach you how to swivel your hips like the Cubans.
Lovers of Latin music and dance could be forgiven After class, you can sip mojitos and smoke fine
for thinking that Buenos Aires, with its passion for cigars in bars such as El Floridita and La Bodeguita
tango, is unrivaled as a place to learn dance. But del Medio. Then, you can up the ante and let your
anyone who has spent time in Havana would beg hair down dancing on stage at famously colorful
to differ – Cuba’s capital city is considered to be cabarets, such as the Tropicana.
the global destination for Afro-Latin dance. Add to that the city’s simmering pre-
From the sentimental son to sizzling salsa, revolutionary allure. Habana Vieja (Old Havana) is ABOVE A crush of people watching a couple performing the
music and dance are the pulsating undercurrents a treasure-trove of magnificent colonial buildings, tango on a San Telmo street
to Cuban life. Everywhere you go in Havana, you many of which have recently emerged from
are surrounded by melodious rhythms. The soft restoration as hotels, restaurants, and museums.
notes of Spanish guitars echo along cobbled Dance classes are taught in Vedado, an early 20th-
streets full of the romance of history, while the century district imbued with effusive Art Deco,
throbbing beat of brassy salsa tunes rises above Beaux Arts, and Modernist structures with a tropical
the wheezing of patched-up cars from the 1950s twist. Most of the venues, hardly changed since the
clattering past centuries-old cathedrals and castles. 1950s, offer a glimpse of a once-gilded era.
The Cuban love of salsa reflects an instinct for
gaiety that turns material adversity on its head. PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Couples dance in the street to overtly sexual
numbers and by night, younger Cubans flood the Getting There and Around gets packed. The area is unsafe
Havana’s José Martí International to walk at night, so take a taxi.
city’s nightclubs. Women are whisked onto the
Airport on the outskirts of Where to Stay
dance floor and whirled around to thrilling timba, a Havana is served by flights from The atmospheric Hotel Raquel,
Europe, Canada, and Latin (Calles Amargura and San
America. The city has an efficient Ignacio; tel. +53 786 08280;
and inexpensive, albeit crowded, www.habaguanexhotels.com)
bus system. Taxis are plentiful, is an Art Deco masterpiece.
although the main tourist spots
When to Go
can be explored on foot.
Oct–Apr are the coolest months;
Where to Eat summer can be stiflingly hot.
Dining is not a strong point, and
the best bargains are in paladares Budget per Day for Two
(private restaurants). The best of US$170 for food, travel,
these is La Guarida (Concordia and accommodations.
418; tel. +53 786 37351; Website
www.laguarida.com), which www.salsa-in-cuba.com
ABOVE Musicians on the street playing guitars, Habana Vieja






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