219
SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES
MAIN IMAGE Musicians traveling in a 1950s American car BELOW (left
to right) La Bodeguita del Medio bar, with signed walls: couples dancing
salsa at the Salon Rosado; Plaza de la Catedral, Habana Vieja
4 MORE DANCE DESTINATIONS
TO RIVAL BUENOS AIRES
DOMINICAN REPUBLIC, CARIBBEAN The locals of this
Caribbean hotspot move to merengue, a high-energy, frantic,
fast-paced dance characterized by slow turns.
SALVADOR DE BAHÍA, BRAZIL This city situated in northern
Brazil is the capital of thumping samba beats and is famous for
its annual carnival, when hordes of revelers descend on the
city to join in the celebrations.
CALIFORNIA, USA West Coast Swing is synonymous with
southern California. All connoisseurs of the dance can sign up
for a class in Los Angeles to perfect the swing patterns which
number more than 5,000.
THE LEVANT AND ISTANBUL, TURKEY The Levant, an
area that encompasses the Eastern Mediterranean region,
gyrates and swivels to the sinuous beats of belly-dancing,
and Istanbul is an alluring place to learn this mesmerizing
Middle Eastern dance.
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SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES Mount Stanley
vs Mount Kilimanjaro
ABOVE Trekkers heading towards the summit of Africa’s
legendary Mount Kilimanjaro
Those who climb Mount Stanley are promised a breathtaking variety of flora, fauna, FORGET MOUNT
and terrain that puts Africa’s more famous giant, Mount Kilimanjaro, to shame
KILIMANJARO?
THE BUILD-UP Mount Kilimanjaro, which
is the highest peak in Africa, is the tallest
Rwenzori Mountains, including colobus and blue mountain in the world that is accessible to
NEED TO KNOW
monkeys, which chatter in the forest canopies, hikers, and requires no technical mountaineering
LOCATION Mount Stanley lies bushbucks and antelopes, which graze near lakes expertise. Rising above the Serengeti, the broad,
in Rwenzori National Park, on snowcapped summit is an alluring fixture on
the border between Uganda and meadows, and mountain elephants, golden
and the Democratic %&. 3&1 cats, and leopards. And nearly 200 species of the horizon throughout much of Kenya and
-BLF
Republic of Congo $0/(0 "MCFSU 6("/%" endemic and migratory birds, from colorful turacos Tanzania. And the opportunity to visit some
HIGHEST POINT .06/5 )PJNB to bee-eaters, reside in the lowland jungles. of Africa’s finest game parks before climbing
16,763 ft (5,109 m) 45"/-&: ,BNQBMB the fabled mountain has undeniable appeal.
#VUFNCP The terrain on Mount Stanley, Africa’s third
FIRST CLIMBED In 1906, -BLF
by the Italian mountaineer &EXBSE -BLF highest peak, is tougher than that found on either
7JDUPSJB THE LETDOWN The major ascent routes are
and prince Luigi Amedeo 38"/%" Mount Kilimanjaro or Mount Kenya. The Rwenzori
CLIMBERS PER YEAR Fewer than 1,000 consistently crowded, and on the most popular
Mountains – also known as “The Mountains of the of these, dubbed the “Coca-Cola Route,” you’ll
Moon” because of their rocky white peaks – are find camps selling drinks and snacks. Wildlife
Explorers returning from Africa to Europe in the sliced with deep-cut gorges, rivers, and ravines. sightings, even at lower levels, are rare and the
mid-19th century were met with scepticism when Once you get near the summit, you’ll need to rope terrain at higher levels is often less than
they claimed to have seen ice and snow atop up and use an ice ax and crampons to traverse the picturesque. There are many inexperienced
Mount Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya, both of Elena Glacier, before making the final push toward climbers here who shortcut acclimatization, are
which stand just miles from the equator. But by the the summit. In addition to the challenging unfit for the challenge, and never see the summit.
time the British explorer Henry Morton Stanley landscape, be prepared for more rain and lower
GOING ANYWAY? If seeing Mount Kilimanjaro’s
returned home in 1889 with tales of a dazzling set visibility than you might find on other African peaks,
steadily shrinking glacier before it disappears is
of six glaciated summits in central Africa’s Rwenzori along with some dicey river crossings and knee-deep
still on your must-do list, make sure you go with
Mountains – the tallest of which was named mud. But the rewards are spectacular. The
a reputable operator that is committed to your
Mount Stanley in his honor – the extraordinary mountain’s tricky terrain and near-constant wet safety and the fair treatment of porters. These
reality began to sink in. Today, thousands of people weather explain why this UNESCO World Heritage operators are likely to recommend less-congested
travel to Africa’s equatorial peaks for their challenging Site is so unspoiled, lush, and full of life. routes offering gradual acclimatization and,
climbs, picturesque scenery, and to experience the therefore, a better chance of summit success.
strange existence of near-Arctic conditions in the PRACTICAL INFORMATION
tropics. But while some 20,000 people flock to
fabled Mount Kilimanjaro every year, fewer than Getting There and Around trekking package, and are
1,000 people visit Mount Stanley, which boasts The Rwenzori Mountains are usually in simple wooden huts
best accessed from Kasese in along the circuit.
all the majesty, much more wildlife, and none of
southwest Uganda, which is
the crowds of its more famous rival. about 185 miles (300 km) – When to Go
One of the most spectacular features of tropical or a 5- to 6-hour journey on Due to its equatorial setting,
mountains is the wealth of different ecosystems and paved roads – from Kampala’s Mount Stanley can be climbed
at any time of year, but July to
extraordinary biodiversity found on their slopes. Entebbe International Airport. mid-September and December
From Kasese, you can arrange
Mount Stanley is no exception. You’ll climb from to February do offer slightly
your trek into Rwenzori National
rain forest and moorland up to mossy forests and Park, which will include an drier conditions.
bogs, and finally onto glaciated alpine terrain. The ascent of Mount Stanley. Budget per Day for Two
mountain’s abundant rainfall gives rise to weird and Where to Eat An eight-day guided trek in the
wonderful plants, including heather that grows up Meals included in Rwenzori Mountains, including a
to 20 ft (6 m) high and giant groundsels and trekking packages to the climb of Mount Stanley, meals,
Rwenzori Mountains. accommodations, and porters is
lobelia, which look more like miniature trees than about US$750 for two people.
ground cover. Wildlife-spotting on Mount Stanley is Where to Stay
Accommodations also comes Website
also superb, and far superior to that of Mount
part and parcel with your www.rwenzorimountaineering
Kilimanjaro. Over 70 mammal species inhabit the
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221
SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES
MAIN IMAGE Lake Bujuku beneath Mount Stanley, with moss, giant
groundsels and lobelias in foreground BELOW (left to right) Bushbuck;
porter on a walkway over a bog; climbers near the top of Mount Stanley
US220-221_spo_mtstanley.indd 221 15/4/09 10:24:17
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222 5 MORE TROPICAL MOUNTAINS TO RIVAL KILIMANJARO
SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES Mount Wilhelm Mauna Loa 0ABIV .PMPLBAJ Copa &$6"%03 #3";*-
NEED TO KNOW
NEED TO KNOW
NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION Mount Wilhelm
LOCATION Copa is
LOCATION Mauna Loa lies
located in the Cordillera
is in the Bismarck Mountains
in Hawai‘i Volcanoes National
,BVBAJ
of Papua New Guinea
Park on the Big Island of
Blanca, a mountain range
-ūIVAF
in the Peruvian Andes
Hawai‘i, US
3BCBVM
HIGHEST POINT
.06/5
)POPMVMV
8*-)&-.
HIGHEST POINT
14,793 ft (4,509 m)
HIGHEST POINT
-BF
.ŔVJ
FIRST CLIMBED In 1938
by Australian Leigh Vial, who
FIRST CLIMBED
FIRST CLIMBED
)JMP
#JH
became a World War II patrol
In 1794 by Scotsman
In 1932 by a German expedition
1PSU
1&36
.PSFTCZ
1BDJmD
watcher in Papua New Guinea
team led by Erwin Schneider
Archibald Menzies
."6/"
0DF B O
1BDJmD
CLIMBERS PER YEAR
CLIMBERS PER YEAR
$PSBM 4FB
CLIMBERS PER YEAR 1"16" /&8 (6*/&" 13,679 ft (4,169 m) )"8"*A* -ŔOBAJ *TMBOE -0" 20,302 ft (6,188 m) 5SVKJMMP -JNB $01" #0-*7*"
"6453"-*" 0DFBO
Fewer than 1,000 Fewer than 1,000 Fewer than 200 "SFRVJQB
The jagged granite summit of Mount Wilhelm, Rising over 30,000 ft (9,000 m) from the ocean Less than 10 degrees south of the equator lies the
the highest peak in Papua New Guinea, is quite a floor, Hawai‘i’s Mauna Loa is both the largest world’s highest tropical mountain range, Peru’s
departure from the highland route that leads you volcano and mountain in the world. Yet from a Cordillera Blanca (see also p85). These mountains,
there, which ascends through dense rain forest, distance, its gently sloping sides and apparently which cradle hundreds of glaciers and form part
temperate mountain forest, and open grassland flat summit belie this magnitude. The volcano’s of South America’s continental divide, contain
before breaking out into rugged alpine terrain. 39-mile (63-km) circular trekking route cuts no less than 27 rugged summits that are higher
The trek to the top of the mountain takes three across a spectacular landscape of different types than Mount Kilimanjaro and are cut sharply by
to four days and although it isn’t technical, it of exposed lava, and although it’s virtually lifeless plunging glacial valleys. It’s a mountaineer’s
involves some steep scrambling near the top. The here – there are no plants, animals, or birds in dream. The most accessible of these towering
snowfields that used to carpet the mountain no sight – the surreal rock formations provide a peaks is Copa, which can be climbed up and
longer exist, but the air in the higher elevations fascinating backdrop to the trail. As you approach either climbed or skied down. Burros carry your
is still cool and crisp. From the summit on a clear the summit caldera, cinder cones, gas emissions, equipment to a base camp, from which point
day there are spectacular views north to the and ground swelling serve as a constant you will follow the tongue of a glacier that leads
Pacific Ocean and small coastal islands. reminder that this is an active volcano, with to a route up the mountain’s western ridge.
plenty of punch still remaining.
Practical Information Practical Information
Getting There and Around Fly into Goroka, which is in the center of Papua Practical Information Getting There and Around From the Peruvian capital, Lima, it’s an
New Guinea. Here you can join an organized trekking group and travel by Getting There and Around Fly into Hilo and either rent a car or catch a 8-hour bus ride to Huaraz, where you can acclimatize before taking
shuttle bus to a base camp on Mount Wilhelm. shuttle bus from there to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park, which is a a 2-hour ride by local bus or private shuttle to the trailhead.
When to Go The best climbing conditions are from May to November. 45-minute drive away. When to Go The best time to climb Copa is in the dry season, which
Website www.pngtrekkingadventures.com When to Go Mauna Loa can be climbed at any time of year, though the is from May to September.
weather is best between June and August. Website For general information on the Cordillera Blanca visit
The barren rocky summit of Mount Wilhelm, Papua New Guinea, set Website www.nps.gov/havo www.peaksandplaces.com
against a brilliant blue sky
Lone hiker on top of the expansive, gently sloping summit of The dramatic snowcapped summit of Copa, Cordillera Blanca, Peru
Mauna Loa, Hawai’i, US
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223
Mount Kinabalu Africa. This is one of the most biodiverse places Cotopaxi
on the planet and a hotbed of endemism thanks
to its tropical climate and abundant rainfall.
NEED TO KNOW NEED TO KNOW
The three-day climb of this giant granite dome
LOCATION Mount Kinabalu begins at the Timpohon Gate, which lies at an LOCATION Cotopaxi is located in the
National Park is located in Andes of South America, about 50 miles
the Malaysian state of Sabah elevation of 5,900 ft (1,800 m). Accompanied by (75 km) south of Quito in Ecuador
on the island of Borneo .06/5 SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES
#36/&* mandatory guides, trekkers rise through forests HIGHEST POINT
,*/"#"-6 2VJUP
HIGHEST POINT ."-":4*" of conifer and oak, cloud forest, and subalpine 19,347 ft (5,897 m) $0501"9*
13,435 ft (4,095 m) ,VDIJOH FIRST CLIMBED 1PSUPWJFKP
meadow. Like the rain forest below it, the mountain &$6"%03
FIRST CLIMBED In 1872 by German geologist
In 1858 by British 1PUJBOBL #PSOFP 4BNBSJOEB boasts a wealth of unusual fauna, including giant Wilhelm Reiss and Colombian (VBZBRVJM
naturalist Sir Hugh Low red leeches that prey on giant earthworms, Ángel Escobar 1BDJmD
0DFBO
*/%0/&4*" 1&36
CLIMBERS PER YEAR extraordinary rhinoceros hornbills – birds that CLIMBERS PER YEAR -PKB
Around 50,000 Around 5,000
look as if they have a shoe attached to their heads
– and the threatened orang-utan, one of the four
On anyone’s list of bizarre flora, a carnivorous great apes. Pygmy squirrels, fruit bats, and brightly Cotopaxi, which is known locally as “the neck of
plant that can eat small mammals would certainly colored tropical birds share the forest canopy on the moon” because of its near-perfect symmetrical
be near the top. On the same list you would also the steep mountain slopes. Hand-carved stone cone that seems to stretch forever upwards, is one
expect to find the parasitic Rafflesia plant, which steps, moss-covered wooden stairs, and fixed of the highest active volcanoes in the world. Its
has the largest flower in the world and is also ropes assist trekkers on the trail’s steeper sections. last eruption, in 1877, sent pyroclastic rivers of fire
known as the “corpse flower” because it smells The final leg of the climb emerges onto a slippery streaming down all sides of the mountain, melting
and looks like rotting flesh. These are just two of surface of exposed granite that leads to the glaciers along the way and carving deep valleys
the extraordinary plants found in the jungles of summit and boasts fantastic panoramas. with scorching mudflows that ran as far as the
Borneo, where the ascent of mighty Mount Pacific Ocean, 60 miles (100 km) to the west.
Kinabalu begins in a shuttle bus carrying trekkers Today, trekkers either camp or stay in huts on the
Practical Information
to the trailhead. The jungle also boasts more than mountain, where the most popular route to the
Getting There and Around A 3-hour bus journey takes you from Kota
800 orchid species and 600 fern species – to put Kinabalu Airport to Kinabalu National Park, where you join your tour group. summit can be climbed in a long day from a hut
this in context, there are only 500 fern species in When to Go Mount Kinabalu can be climbed at any time of year, but is at 15,800 ft (4,800 m). Though not a terribly difficult
most enjoyable in the dry season, which is from February to April. climb, it should only be attempted by experienced
Climbers roping up for the challenging ascent of Mount Kinabalu’s Website www.sabahparks.org.my mountaineers with appropriate climbing gear.
rocky summit, Borneo
Practical Information
Getting There and Around From Quito, local and shuttle buses run to
Cotopaxi National Park, which is an hour to the south.
When to Go Cotopaxi can be climbed at any time of year, although January,
June, July and December offer particularly clear, dry days.
Website www.moggely.com
Snowcapped Cotopaxi, Ecuador, with its sharply pointed peak
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224
ACTIVITIES FORGET ST. ANDREWS?
THE BUILD-UP As the self-proclaimed “home
AND Reykjavík Golf of golf,” St. Andrews has welcomed golfers for
more than six centuries. Though commonly
referred to as a single course, St. Andrews is
actually seven separate courses, each open to
SPORTS Club, Iceland the public. You can follow in the footsteps of
golfing legends, from Old Tom Morris and
Bobby Jones, to Jack Nicklaus and Tiger Woods.
THE LETDOWN To walk the fairways of the
vs St. Andrews, Scotland Old Course at St. Andrews, golfers must enter a
ballot for a chance to tee off the following day.
Demand is high, with over 42,000 rounds
played each year, so a prayer to the site’s
Frustrated by the lottery for the Old Course’s balloted tickets at St Andrews? Swap bracken, religious relics by the West Bay are common
ferns, and heather for the glacial home of Reykjavík’s prestigious Icelandic PGA Open as a last-ditch attempt in prompting a tee time.
GOING ANYWAY? Hand in a ballot card or
call the ballot line by 2pm. Highly coveted tee
The country’s awe-inspiring terrain features some times are hugely oversubscribed with inevitable
NEED TO KNOW
of Mother Nature’s greatest triumphs, from disappointment for most. The good news is the
LOCATION The Reykjavík Golf tremendous ice caps and mammoth spouting New Course is usually offered as a consolation
Club is based in Reykjavík, the (SFFOMBOE
4FB prize. The greens are much smaller than the
capital of Iceland, in the North geysers to gnarled lava chasms and cascading
Atlantic Ocean close to the waterfalls. Just half an hour from the fairways, Old but there are still plenty of deep sod
)VTBWJL
Arctic Circle bunkers to provide a decent test of golf.
"LVSFZSJ glacial lagoons and gin-clear sparkling pools beg
LEVEL High and low
handicappers *$&- "/% exploration with deep-dives into an exhilarating
DAYTIME 3&:,+"7¶, underwater world. Summer golfers can enjoy
TEMPERATURES ,FnBWÓL 24-hour daylight from mid-June to mid-July each
Jan: 32°F (0°C); Apr: 37°F (3°C);
Jul: 54°F (12°C); Oct: 41°F (5°C) /PSUI "UMBOUJD 0DFBO year, when Iceland’s midsummer “White Nights”
encourage playing all night.
The 45-year-old Grafarholt layout is recognized
St. Andrews in Scotland may have been as the nation’s premier championship venue. As
synonymous with golf since the 15th century, but the host of European and Nordic tournaments,
it might come as a surprise to learn that Iceland Grafarholt is arguably the toughest test of golf in
has twice as many golf courses per capita as Iceland, with lava-hemmed fairways suited to big- ABOVE Golfers and spectators at the Royal and Ancient Golf
Scotland – the so-called “home of golf.” Fifteen hitters. However, the par-71, 6,590-yard (6,026-m) Club of St. Andrews, Scotland
18-hole courses are open to visiting players, 18-hole course has more than rounded curves
together with almost 50 nine-hole facilities – to contend with, as its stunning mist-shrouded
that’s a staggering 700-plus holes and counting. panoramas over Reykjavík can prove to be a
What’s more, unlike at St. Andrews, golf can be serious distraction.
played round-the-clock in the summer months. Since it opened in 1997, the 18-hole Korpa has PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Established in 1934, the RGC is the oldest satisfied the golf-hungry with two distinct nines
Getting There and Around Where to Stay
and largest golf club in Iceland. It boasts two hugging the Atlantic coastline overlooking the
Keflavik International Airport As an alternative to the city’s
exceptional 18-hole courses, Grafarholt and Korpa, Esja Mountain’s peaks. On the back nine, the par-4 (Leifur Eiríksson International) bland, mainstream chain
in an otherworldly landscape of volcanic crags, 12th and par-5 15th along the Korpa river’s banks lies on the Reykjanes Peninsula hotels, book a room at the
glaciers, gushing ravines, and rugged mountains. require concentration. Designed by Iceland’s about a 40-minute drive ultra-stylish 101 Hotel, where
premier golf-course architect, Hannes Thorsteinsson, southwest of Iceland’s capital 30 rooms and suites boast
Reykjavík. Taxis and airport bus quirky one-off designs with a
the par-72 course stretches for 6,600 yards (6,035 m),
shuttles, known as Flybus, contemporary twist (Hverfisgata
with innocuous looking holes inflicting the maximum connect the city center hotels 10; tel. +354 580 0101;
punishment on high handicappers. Acres of with the terminal building. www.101hotel.is).
diabolical molten rock provide the rough from hell, Where to Eat When to Go
though locals refer to this as vinur i hrauninu (a The art of preserving food is Iceland’s golf season runs
friend in the rocks) – as the phenomenon often endemic to Icelandic culture, so for five months a year, peaking
it’s no surprise that pickles and
sends wayward shots back into play when errant in summer when tee times are
cured and salted produce remain offered round-the-clock.
balls ricochet off the magma. at the heart of local cuisine.
The golf courses in Iceland peak in condition in Classic dishes center on lamb, Budget per Day for Two
mid-July to the end of August. Though the RGC’s chicken, veal, and game. Allow US$280 to include
accommodations, food, and
courses attract many visitors, it would be a shame However, fish is the mainstay green fees of US$40–55.
in Reykjavík, such as at the
to miss out on some of the country’s other courses,
Seafood Cellar (www. Website
some set in spectacular locations. You can even sjavarkjallarinn.is). www.goiceland.org
ABOVE Women on a putting green in Laugardalur, Reykjavík play a round by Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest glacier.
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225
SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES
MAIN IMAGE The 18-hole Grafarholt golf course, with sweeping
mountain views BELOW (left to right) Aerial view of a course in
Vifilsstadir; golfers with Vatnajökull Glacier in the background
3 MORE GOLF COURSES TO
RIVAL ST ANDREWS
ANTALYA PGA SULTAN COURSE, TURKEY Until recent years,
nobody would ever have associated golf with Turkey. However,
by 2008, Turkey’s Antalya PGA Sultan Course had hosted the
PGA National Pro-Am Championship, Europe’s largest Pro-Am
for the second year running (www.antalyagolfclub.com.tr).
ROYAL COUNTY DOWN, NORTHERN IRELAND Boasting
a 100-year golfing tradition, this 18-hole facility with gorse-
lined fairways that weave through tussock-faced bunkers is
set in spellbinding scenery along Dundrum Bay’s shores. It is
also one of US golfer Tiger Woods’ favorite courses (www.
royalcountydown.org).
LJUNGHUSEN GOLF CLUB, SWEDEN Jutting out into the
Baltic Sea on the Falsterbo Peninsula, this 40-year-old club’s
course sits within a protected marshland area. Its 27 holes are
blasted by fearsome winds – little wonder several that heroic
coastal holes have earned it a regular ranking in Sweden’s top five.
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SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES
MAIN IMAGE Diver exploring the colorful reef at Christmas Island
BELOW (left to right) Secluded beach on the island; dragon moray
eel; thousands of red crabs crossing the road as they migrate
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Christmas Island SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES
vs the Great Barrier Reef
The rarely seen coral reefs that surround Christmas Island in the Indian Ocean are just as splendid as
those of the Great Barrier Reef in Australia – only they’re far more isolated and far less spoiled
effortlessly, rotates slightly to ponder on the moray eel, which frequently pokes its nose up from
NEED TO KNOW
ungainly nature of the intruder suspended before deep inside hard coral formations to view divers as
LOCATION Christmas */%0/&4*"
+BWB it, and then slides on by. A pod of spinner dolphins they pass by its lair.
Island is in the Indian
Ocean, 225 miles (360 km) $)3*45."4 %BSXJO follows in its wake, mother and babies playfully Rising up from the depths of the Indian Ocean,
south of Java *4-"/% enclosing you, running rings around you and hoping this rain forest-clad island is actually the tip of an
SCUBA DIVING for a new playmate. And in all this time there is no ancient volcano. Its tortuous limestone base has
Christmas Island boasts steep walls,
"6453"-*"
shallow reefs, and safe cave dives one else in sight other than your diving buddy and been shaped over millions of years by the waves
DAYTIME 1FSUI 4ZEOFZ a divemaster. It’s a far cry from the more famous, that lap the island and by rainwater that sinks into
TEMPERATURES "EFMBJEF but eternally crowded, Great Barrier Reef. the porous rock, creating a honeycomb effect
Jan: 77°F (25°C); Apr: 79°F (26°C); 4PVUIFSO $BOCFSSB
Jul: 75°F (24°C); Oct: 77°F (25°C) 0DFBO Christmas Island is actually best known not for beneath the surface. This rugged, potholed
its scuba diving, but for its extraordinary red-crab landscape continues into the ocean, where
migration – a spectacle that takes place every year countless underwater caves coax you back into
Your first descent into the crystal-clear blue water when millions of the scarlet creatures emerge from your diving gear and beneath the surface. You
surrounding Christmas Island will be nothing short the rain forest and walk en masse down to the sea enter the splendid Thundercliff Cave, on the shore
of breathtaking. Beneath the surface lies the most to spawn. At this time, the shallow water turns side of the immaculate fringing coral reef, at a
luxurious of hard coral reefs – a colorful, lush pink with eggs, but beyond that the sea remains depth of 53 ft (16 m) and through a series of pitch-
display that is almost ostentatious in its beauty. The aquamarine, completely pristine, and utterly black grottoes that are decorated with stalactites
view goes on forever, way down to the depths of deserted except for its wealth of marine residents. and stalagmites. A little farther on, you ascend to
the Indian Ocean. Brilliant rays of sunlight cast The island has more indigenous species than an extraordinary subterranean beach where you
stripes of turquoise through the sea and highlight anywhere else on the planet except the Galapagos can take off your dive gear and continue exploring
the flapping motion of a distant wing. Pause mid- Islands, and some of the marine creatures are on foot. It won’t be long before you see that you’re
water and wait for the manta ray as it approaches unique too, including the exotic-looking dragon inside an enormous cavern that is as beautiful and
grand as any Gothic cathedral.
FORGET THE GREAT PRACTICAL INFORMATION
BARRIER REEF?
Getting There and Around with a twist at Yoong Chong in
THE BUILD-UP Often touted as the top must-see- Weekly flights arrive at the island’s Poon San (tel. +61 9164 8133).
before-you-die attraction, Australia’s Great Barrier small international airport from Where to Stay
Reef is the most famous coral reef on the planet, due either Singapore or Kuala Try the Captain’s Last Resort (tel.
Lumpur, Malaysia, depending
mostly to its overwhelming size. Swim with minke +61 9381 54576), a cozy cottage
on the season. There are also
whales, dive with sharks, and snorkel with rainbow- with fantastic views of the sea.
twice-weekly flights from Perth
hued fish along 3,000 individual reefs that traverse in Australia. There is no public When to Go
the coast for 1,430 miles (2,300 km). transportation on the island, so Christmas Island sits just below
it’s vital that you rent a car, the equator, so its climate is
THE LETDOWN Thousands of people arrive at the preferably a 4WD, to negotiate tropical. Try to avoid February
Great Barrier Reef every year hoping to find a pristine ABOVE A group of divers preparing to jump into the sea at the the roads through the rain forest. and March, which are the
Great Barrier Reef, Australia wettest months.
underwater world teeming with fascinating marine Where to Eat
life. Instead, they find a coral reef that has been damaged by crowds of unthinking visitors, many of whom The handful of restaurants on Budget per Day for Two
US$400 for a day’s diving,
trample on it at low tide and grab hold of fragile pieces while snorkeling and diving. Christmas Island, including
Australian bistros and Malay and food, lodging, and
Chinese restaurants, reflect its transportation.
GOING ANYWAY? For the best diving, take a liveaboard boat to distant reefs well away from the day-trip regions.
multicultural population. Website
Never forget that the reef is a living entity. Help ensure its longevity by using ecologically minded operators. Indulge in Cantonese cuisine www.christmas.net.au
US226-227_xmas_island.indd 227 16/4/09 11:27:26
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228 6 MORE DIVING SPOTS TO RIVAL THE GREAT BARRIER REEF
SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES Tufi, Papua Gulf of Aqaba, Lighthouse
Reef, Belize
Jordan
New Guinea
NEED TO KNOW
NEED TO KNOW
NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION Tufi is
LOCATION The Gulf of
LOCATION Lighthouse Reef
.&9*$0
1BDJmD 0DFBO
.FEJUFSSBOFBO
Aqaba borders Jordan, Egypt,
is 50 miles (80 km) southeast of
on Papua New Guinea’s
4FB
4:3*"
the capital, Belize City
Israel, and Saudi Arabia
southeastern coastline
8FXBL
"M 3BNUÈ
SCUBA DIVING Tufi has
SCUBA DIVING
3BCBVM
#&-*;& #FMJ[F $JUZ
incredible offshore reefs and
The shallows boast patches of
Gently shelving lagoons are
"NNBO
*43"&-
-BF
reef while the deeper waters
divided from the ocean here
superlative “muck diving”
3&&'
by small, raised reefs
have coral-coated slopes
1"16" /&8 (6*/&"
DAYTIME
+03%"/ SCUBA DIVING #FMNPQBO -*()5)064&
TEMPERATURES 1PSU 56'* DAYTIME 4"6%* DAYTIME $BSJCCFBO
Jan: 80°F (27°C); Apr: 88°F .PSFTCZ TEMPERATURES 1FUSB "3"#*" TEMPERATURES Jan: 81°F 4F B
(31°C); Jul: 82°F (28°C); $PSBM 4FB Jan: 55°F (12°C); Apr: 91°F (32°C); (27°C); Apr: 85°F (30°C); Jul: 86°F 4BO "OUPOJP
Oct: 84°F (29°C) "6453"-*" Jul: 98°F (36°C); Oct: 78°F (26°C) "2"#" (30°C); Oct: 84°F (29°C)
(6"5&."-"
Papua New Guinea is one of tourism’s last frontiers. The city of Aqaba sits at the top of Jordan’s small Lighthouse Reef’s famous Blue Hole, explored
Many areas of the country, it is said, have never share of the Red Sea coast, but drive a short way by Frenchman Jacques Cousteau on his Calypso
been visited by Westerners. The village of Tufi sits toward the Saudi border and you’ll find pretty expedition of 1972, is the jewel in Belize’s diving
on a rugged, fjord-like coastline, its dive center and uncrowded coral reefs that run right up to crown. This barren circular tunnel, which drops to
nestled in the crook of an inlet that was used for the shore. “Bommies” (coral outcrops) decorate a depth of 1,475 ft (450 m), has stalactites hanging
decades as a rubbish dump. It doesn’t sound the sand here like flowerbeds. Anthias, damselfish, from a shelf at 130 ft (40 m), indicating that it was
alluring, but this mucky environment attracts and lionfish are common sights, while prehistoric once dry land. The only fish you’ll see are reef
unusual creatures that use the discarded objects slipper lobsters are more unusual. The wreck of the sharks and groupers, but venture into other areas
as camouflage. Blennies retreat inside old cola cargo vessel Cedar Pride, which sank in 1982, adds and you’ll find livelier spots, where bottom-feeding
bottles, harlequin shrimps hide beneath rusting a fascinating dimension to diving in the area. And rays dwell in sandy lagoons, pastel-toned sea
40-gallon drums, and hairy robust ghost pipefish for those who like a dash of ancient history to plumes cover the raised barrier reef, and pelagic
mimic red algae as it grows on ageing driftwood. balance their days at sea, no place is quite like species, including turtles, patrol the steep walls.
At a depth of 148 ft (45 m) you’ll also see an intact Jordan. Emerge from the reefs at the top of the Gulf
torpedo and a shell gun – reminders that this was of Aqaba and head inland to the rose-red city of
Practical Information
an American forces station during World War II. Petra – the perfect foil for the underwater realm.
Getting There and Around Flights to Belize City are available from most major
American cities. On arrival, your dive operator will arrange transportation
to the sites, but Lighthouse Reef is best seen from a liveaboard boat.
Practical Information Practical Information
Getting There Fly to Port Moresby, the capital of Papua New Guinea, and Getting There and Around Flights land at Aqaba airport but few are When to Go This is an all-year destination, but from August to October
then hop on a small aircraft for the 40-minute transfer to Tufi. You’ll land direct – most go via the capital city, Amman. Aqaba is small enough there is more rain and a higher chance of hurricanes.
on the village football field. The resort is a short walk from here. to explore on foot. Dive centers provide transportation to the sites. Website www.belizetourism.org
When to Go Visit at any time – the weather is great all year round. When to Go Diving is available all year round, but July and August can be
Website www.papuanewguineatourism.com unbearably hot, with temperatures reaching up to 122°F (50°C) at times. Aerial view of the awe-inspiring Blue Hole at Lighthouse Reef
Website www.aqaba.jo
A harlequin shrimp in the bay at Tufi
Orange lyretail anthias swimming on the reef, Gulf of Aqaba
29/4/09 13:18:23
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229
Banda Islands, Pemba, Tanzania Blue Corner,
Indonesia NEED TO KNOW Palau
LOCATION The island of
-BLF
NEED TO KNOW Pemba is in the Indian Ocean, 7JDUPSJB ,&/:" NEED TO KNOW
30 miles (50 km) from the
LOCATION The Banda African mainland LOCATION Located in the SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES
Islands are in the Spice western Pacific, Palau is often ,BZBOHFM
Islands in Indonesia 1)*-*11*/&4 SCUBA DIVING Coral-ringed ,JHPNB 1&.#" incorrectly regarded as part of *TMBOET
islands dot the western coast and
SCUBA DIVING Deep %PEPNB nearby Micronesia
. "- ":4*" 1BDJmD steep walls lie on the eastern coast
pinnacles here contrast .FEBO 0DF B O SCUBA DIVING Palau is /HBSENBV
with shallow channels 4BNBSJOEB DAYTIME 5"/;"/*" %BS FT best known for big marine
4BMBBN
DAYTIME */%0 /&4*" +BZBQVSB TEMPERATURES Jan: animals and rocky reefs 1"-"6
82°F (28°C); Apr: 80°F (26°C);
TEMPERATURES +BLBSUB #"/%" *4-"/%4 -JOEJ ,PSPS 1BDJmD
Jul: 75°F (24°C); Oct: 80°F (26°C) ;".#*" -BLF DAYTIME 0DFBO
Jan: 86°F (30°C); Apr: &"45 5*.03 /ZBTB TEMPERATURES Jan: 81°F
86°F (30°C); Jul: 82°F *OEJBO (27°C); Apr: 82°F (28°C); Jul: #-6& $03/&3
(28°C); Oct: 86°F (30°C) 0DFBO "6453"-*" 81°F (27°C); Oct: 81°F (27°C)
A little piece of Africa that time almost forgot,
Pemba was once a spice-growing center run by
The Banda Islands, at the center of the Spice Islands, the Sultans of Oman. Today, the island is known In ancient times a matrilineal society regarded as
were long fought over for their wealth of nutmeg, for its clear water and vibrant marine life. Its east one of the wealthiest in the Pacific, Palau is today
once worth far more than gold. This small brown coast, which drops away sharply from mangrove- a magnet for those few divers who are prepared
nut is still the lifeblood of the islands, but running lined shores, has deep walls. Strong currents on to travel a long distance for their sport. And often
a close second are its dazzling coral reefs, which this side might restrict the growth of corals, but they come just for one very famous dive known
have long been protected against marauding they also attract big pelagic species, such as grey as Blue Corner. Strong currents sweep up a perfectly
fishermen. When you descend through the warm, reef sharks and hammerheads. On Pemba’s west vertical wall to a flat reef top where guides position
clear water, swim to the edge of the sheer wall coast, which is much calmer, you’ll find masses of divers, who hover above the reef using specially
and look down into the abyss, you won’t see far. tiny islands that create nooks and crannies for designed hooks that attach to rocks or rubble. It
Blocking your view will be shoal after shoal of divers to explore. The coral here is richer and can be a battle staying still in these currents – a
colorful fish darting around in ribbon-like waves, larger, and the reef fish more plentiful. To the south challenge that doesn’t seem to affect the massive
like a bizarre three-dimensional screensaver. Indian of the island lies the eerie but well-preserved wreck numbers of fish that come to the wall to feed.
Ocean triggers occupy the top layer, pyramid of a steam freighter that sank in a storm in 1967. Huge schools of barracuda block the sunlight as
butterflies sit below, and rainbow runners they approach. They are followed by even larger
beneath them. Don’t miss the fan corals, lower schools of jacks, while gray reef and whitetip
Practical Information
down the wall, which dwarf divers, or the harbor, sharks patrol just below, waiting for an easy meal.
Getting There Fly to Pemba from Tanzania’s capital, Dar es Salaam, or fly to
famed for its rare bottom-dwelling creatures. Mombasa in Kenya and reach the island by car and boat across the channel.
When to Go This is a year-round destination, although the rainy season is Practical Information
Practical Information between March and May. Getting There The most frequent and convenient flights to Palau depart
Getting There and Around Although Banda Neira has a small airport, most Website www.tanzaniatouristboard.com from Manila in the Philippines, although there is also a route available
divers arrive on the island via a liveaboard boat from Ambon Island. from the US via the Pacific island of Guam.
When to Go The water is calmest and clearest between October and April. Diver exploring the wrecked steam freighter off Pemba When to Go There is year-round diving here, although visibility is said to
be at its lowest in September.
Website www.divingmaluku.com
Website www.visit-palau.com
Shoal of reef fish around a bright red sea fan, Banda Neira
A mesmerizing shoal of Bigeye trevally fish at Blue Corner
US228-229_spo_xmas_island_fo.ind229 229 29/4/09 13:19:08
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230
SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES Cappadocia
ABOVE Mountain bikers on the famous Slickrock Trail, Utah, USA
vs the Slickrock Trail
FORGET THE
SLICKROCK TRAIL?
For head-over-wheels mountain biking, Cappadocia’s extraordinary rock formations
THE BUILD-UP This sinuous track, which winds
rival Utah’s Slickrock Trail – and 4,000 years of human history is just part of the ride around sculpted red-rock formations on a desert
plateau in Utah overlooking the Colorado
River, is the world’s most popular mountain-
biking trail. It is rugged terrain, to be sure, and
Along the course of the river that runs through this
NEED TO KNOW dishes out some dizzying twists and turns along
9-mile- (14-km- ) long valley are more than 100
LOCATION Cappadocia ancient churches chiseled out of the stone. Other with some quad-burning climbs. The famed
is located in the Nevşehir “slickrock” is actually a sandpaper-like surface
province of central Turkey, #MBDL 4FB bikers rarely visit this peaceful, rural spot, which is that grips tires at gravity-defying angles and
177 miles (285 km)
*TUBOCVM shaded by apricot, walnut, and Russian olive trees. makes for a thrilling and challenging ride.
southeast of Ankara
VISITORS PER YEAR "OLBSB 563,& : Even though Cappadocia is a mountainous
Fewer than 2,000 *[NJS $"11"%0$*" region where elevations range from 3,280 to 5,580 ft THE LETDOWN Slickrock attracts over 100,000
DAYTIME "EBOB (1,000 to 1,700 m), the trails are never jarring or mountain bikers every year. Among the throngs,
TEMPERATURES Jan: *3"2 brutal, and a full-suspension bike, although useful, though, are many with an attitude – aficionados
4:3*"
32°F (0°C); Apr: 50°F (10°C); .FEJUFSSBOFBO who are more interested in showing off their
Jul: 68°F (20°C); Oct: 52°F (11°C) 4FB isn’t essential for most recreational riders. The
dramatic terrain is, in most places, ideally suited US$7,000 carbon-frame bikes than in just
getting out there and having a great time.
to first-time mountain bikers, but it also dishes out
Cappadocia has been at the crossroads of history enough contours, twists, and turns to keep
GOING ANYWAY? The Slickrock Trail is open
for thousands of years – Hittites, Persians, Greeks, professionals entertained for days. On the
all year round, but to avoid the searing summer
and Romans all had their day here, but they didn’t international mountain-biking scene, Cappadocia is heat, plan on tackling it from February to May
have mountain bikes with thick tIres to make this an up-and-coming destination – in 2007 it hosted or from September to November. The nearby
fantasy landscape more enjoyable. The dazzling the European Mountain Biking Championships and town of Moab is the gateway to two national
setting comprises volcanic rock cones, spires, and it now features an annual festival dedicated to the parks – Arches and Canyonlands – and offers
pinnacles, known collectively as “fairy chimneys,” sport, which takes place in June. And judging by easy access to miles of additional mountain-
which form natural pillars that are ideal for darting the smiles on the faces of riders moving gracefully biking trails and many other outdoor pursuits.
and skirting around on two wheels. Both a playful about this bewitching, bizarre landscape,
pursuit and a great way to explore the area, riding mountain biking in Cappadocia is here to stay.
among these surreal forms is a far more exhilarating
and picturesque alternative to the well-worn PRACTICAL INFORMATION
routes of Utah’s Slickrock Trail.
But this breathtaking, otherworldly scenery is Getting There and Around of Cappadocia. These intimate
From Istanbul, fly into Kayseri, and welcoming inns are carved
just the start of the mountain-biking experience in
which is 44 miles (70 km) into the limestone and are well
Cappadocia. There are also dozens of man-made northeast of Ürgüp, a town in the furnished, equipped with
wonders to take in along the way, giving the trip a heart of Cappadocia. A shuttle- electricity, plumbing, and air
fascinating cultural and historical dimension. You’ll bus service is available from conditioning, and offer a high
pass ancient cave dwellings that are still in use, Kayseri Airport to hotels in the standard of comfort. One of the
major towns of Cappadocia. best is the Esbelli Evi Cave Inn in
intricately carved pigeon lofts and monasteries
Where to Eat Ürgüp (www.esbelli.com).
with stunning frescoed walls and Byzantine art,
Turkish food is a delight, and When to Go
all of which invite inspection. As you ride through Cappadocia’s signature cuisine The best riding conditions are
Göreme National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage of dishes slow cooked in clay in May, June, September and
Site known for its towering 130-ft- (40-m-) high pots is no exception. Here you’ll October, when the weather is
find a good variety of small,
fairy chimneys, be sure to visit the centuries-old at its coolest and driest.
traditional restaurants and
rock dwellings and underground villages, as well fine-dining options. Somine Budget per Day for Two
as the informative Open-Air Museum, which boasts Restaurant in Ürgüp is one of the Budget US$100–200 for food
ten rock-hewn Byzantine churches. top restaurants in Cappadocia and lodging. Bicycle rentals and
Another rewarding day trip is a ride through (www.sominerestaurant.com). guided tours can be an extra
US$150–200 a day for two.
the Ihlara Valley, which is one of several sites in the Where to Stay
You don’t need to be a troglodyte Website
area where 4th-century Christians hid in rock-hewn
to enjoy the famous cave hotels www.cappadociaexclusive.com
buildings and natural caves to escape persecution.
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SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES
MAIN IMAGE Mountain biker on a daring downhill run near Ürgüp,
Cappadocia BELOW (left to right) Distinctive-looking fairy chimneys;
interior of the Byzantine St Anna’s Church at Göreme Open-Air Museum
4 MORE MOUNTAINBIKING
ROUTES TO RIVAL SLICKROCK
TRAIL 401, COLORADO, USA Colorado’s best mountain-biking
trail is 14 miles (23 km) long and boasts breathtaking views of
the two-peaked mountain known as the Maroon Bells, as well
as stands of flickering aspens and meadows full of wild flowers.
APOLOBAMBA ROAD, LA PAZ DEPARTMENT, BOLIVIA
Check your brake pads before you begin this hair-raising descent
on what has been called “the world’s most dangerous road.”
Here, sheer drop-offs, towering mountains, and misty waterfalls
make for an exhilarating and intense 5-hour downhill run.
FREEDOM TRAIL, SOUTH AFRICA Set your sights on this
1,450-mile (2,300-km) route from Durban to Cape Town and
expect weeks on end of dirt roads and bike trails that traverse
wilderness areas, national parks, and nature preserves.
SKYLINE TRAIL, SWANSEA, UK With over 6,600 ft (2,000 m)
of roller-coaster ascents and drops, this 29-mile (46-km) loop
delivers stunning views. Not for the unfit or faint of heart.
US230-231_spo_cappodocia.indd 231 15/4/09 10:25:32
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232 FORGET TREKKING
SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES Trekking in Bhutan IN CHIANG MAI?
THE BUILD-UP Located 435 miles (700 km)
north of Bangkok, Chiang Mai is the
undisputed trekking hub for Thailand’s
mountainous northern interior. Trekkers find
easy access to lush tropical vegetation, hill-tribe
villages, and unspoiled nature. It is also a great
vs Trekking in Chiang Mai
and jewelry. Other options, from elephant
riding to whitewater rafting, also abound.
The fascinating Kingdom of Bhutan receives only 20,000 visitors a year – about as place to find handcrafted goods, woodcarvings
THE LETDOWN Over the past 30 years, Chiang
many as plod through Chiang Mai in four days Mai has become increasingly modern and more
congested, with a crowded city center. It hosts
about 2 million tourists annually. Even though
it has a more relaxed atmosphere than Bangkok,
interests, including mountain scenery, birding,
NEED TO KNOW Chiang Mai has lost much of its appeal to
agriculture, and architecture. But regardless of trekkers in search of a remote forest trail.
LOCATION Bhutan is a the itinerary or the duration of the trek, being
Himalayan kingdom bordered $)*/"
by Tibet to the north and immersed in the rich cultural heritage of Bhutan is GOING ANYWAY? Chiang Mai can still be an
India to the south always a highlight. Even extended treks into high appealing getaway, provided you make a quick
VISITORS PER YEAR 5IJNQIV mountain regions will see you spend much of the exit for the hill country. Look for a reputable
About 20,000
1BSP #)65"/ time in the lower-elevation villages, walking local operator – as well as in Chiang Mai, many
DAYTIME 5BTI can be found in nearby communities like Pai.
TEMPERATURES 1IVOUTIPMJOH through rice terraces, fields of millet and apple
Jan: 41°F (5°C); Apr: 56°F orchards before ascending to higher elevations Opt for a trek that includes different hill-tribe
(14°C); Jul: 61°F (16°C); */%*" villages so that you become familiar with varied
Oct: 61°F (16°C) where semi-nomadic yak herders roam the hills. – and sometimes colorful – ethnic groups.
Dotting the landscape are medieval fortresses
known as dzongs and elegant monasteries – the
Considered to be a modern-day Shangri-La, Tiger’s Nest Monastery (Taktshang Goenmba) is
Bhutan is tucked below the southern slope of the the best known – all composed in a unique, almost
eastern Himalayas, with Tibet to the north and mystical architectural style. Wearing colorful
India to the south, and is one of the most remote traditional dress with knee-length gowns and
and protected lands on the planet. The country is draping cuffs is common among the locals, as is
slightly larger than Switzerland with a population practising traditional sports, such as archery, tug-
of about 2 million people, almost all of whom are of-war, and digor, a kind of shot put.
connected to the land through agriculture. From After the trek, if time permits, spend a few days
the tops of the 22,960-ft (7,000-m) Himalayan in Thimphu, perhaps the only capital city in the
peaks, the land descends into high alpine slopes world with no traffic lights. What Bhutan lacks in ABOVE Crowds visiting Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, a highly
grazed by yaks and goats, into forests of spruce modern conveniences and tourist amenities, it revered Buddhist temple near Chiang Mai
and oak which cover about 70 percent of the more than makes up for with its gracious people,
country, and farther down into fertile valleys and fascinating culture, and diverse scenic appeal.
a low, subtropical southern strip. Although only 10
percent of the land is arable, the soil is so rich and PRACTICAL INFORMATION
the climate so favorable it can grow almost any
crop. It’s no wonder that the country is completely Getting There and Around Where to Stay
There are only two ways to enter With rooms heated by iron
self-sufficient in its food production.
Bhutan. You can either enter from stoves and hot-water bags
Bhutan remains preserved as one of the
India along a single road that placed in your bed, the
least deforested countries in the world, and crosses the border, or you can fly Dewachen Hotel (tel. +975 244
hunting is prohibited by law and religion. In this into Bhutan’s only airport in Paro, 2550; www.dewachenhotel.
predominantly Buddhist kingdom, traditional on the country’s flagship airline, com) in Gangtey is a
culture is rigorously preserved in a society where Druk Air. Be sure you have made wonderfully traditional
experience. Set in a pine forest,
myth and legend are inseparable from the land prepaid travel arrangements and
have secured a visa in advance. it offers convenient trekking
and people. Since tourism is limited and unguided options in the area.
Independent travel is not
travel is not permitted, you won’t find armies of permitted in Bhutan. When to Go
budget backpackers, banana pancakes in every Mar–May and Sep–Nov are
Where to Eat
teahouse, cluttered campgrounds, and legions of Be forewarned – Bhutanese food ideal for trekking.
bars as in Chiang Mai and other places where is spicy hot, but the Bhutan Budget per Day for Two
trekking is the lifeblood of the economy. Kitchen (tel. +975 233 1919) in Around US$280 including the
Trekking in Bhutan is decidedly not adventure Thimphu offers a pleasing setting services of a guide, meals,
with a well-prepared local and accommodations.
on a shoestring, but it is an exquisite journey into a
cuisine that can be tempered to Website
diverse natural environment and a captivating
the Western palate. www.tourism.gov.bt
culture. Bhutan can cater to a wide range of
19/2/09 12:51:36
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233
SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES
MAIN IMAGE Tiger’s Nest Monastery, perched on a cliff
BELOW (left to right) Village houses between Thimphu and
Wangdi; a procession at Paro Dzong Monastery; on the trail, Bhutan
4 MORE TREKKING TRAILS
TO RIVAL CHIANG MAI
HIGH ATLAS MOUNTAINS, MOROCCO As you hike from
one Berber village to the next, you’ll pass grazing sheep, and
find rarely visited valleys and remote mountain trails.
THE COORG, KARNATAKA, INDIA The Western Ghat
mountains combine jungle flora and cascading waterfalls with
coffee and tobacco plantations. Local festivals, tantalizing food,
and historic shrines complete a memorable experience.
SINAI DESERT, EGYPT Travel through this unforgiving
wilderness with a Bedouin guide who will find sinuous
canyons and hidden springs in an otherwise barren landscape.
In the evening, share a camp with local Bedouin goat herders.
PAPUA NEW GUINEA The steep tracks and dense jungles
make for challenging trekking, and this is one of the last places
on earth where you can meet primitive tribes who still
maintain stone-age lifestyle and use tools made from bone
and stone. Best undertaken with an experienced local operator.
US232-233_SPO_Bhutan.indd 233 19/2/09 12:52:03
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234
SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES FORGET THE ISLE OF
MAN TT RACES?
THE BUILD-UP The Isle of Man TT, with 100
years of racing history behind it, is the ultimate
challenge for any pure road-racer – it is the
Everest of the biking world. It is held once a
year, with practice during the last week of May
Tandragee 100 and the race during the first week of June.
THE LETDOWN The Isle of Man is a costly
event to travel to. Accommodations can also
be a problem unless you book almost a year in
advance. Each lap lasts around 17 minutes, so
there is a limited number of opportunities to
vs TT Races see your favorite riders in action. Racing takes
place every second day, so to make it worth-
while, you need to stay at least for a few days.
For elbow-to-elbow, death-defying motorcycle racing on narrow, bumpy roads the GOING ANYWAY? Book as far in advance as
Tandragee 100 is the full-flavor taste sensation compared to the lowfat TT possible, as it fills up as soon as the previous TT
ends. You may be able to find a room with the
residents of the Isle of Man, who, as part of a
“Home Stay” project, rent out spare rooms to
budgets, the Department of Tourism and local
NEED TO KNOW visitors. Hire a vehicle to get to the vantage
business. Tandragee has none of that – riders race points on the 38-mile (63-km) circuit.
LOCATION Tandragee is and families visit for the love of the sport.
on the edge of the Glebe Hills
"UMBOUJD
along the River Cusher in Co 0DFBO The race takes place on a 5-mile (9-km) open-
Armagh, Northern Ireland
(MBTHPX &EJOCVSHI road circuit which, put simply, you would be mad
WHEN First Sat in May; free entry /PSUI
#FMGBTU 4FB to race on at 50 mph (80 kmph), never mind the
NUMBER OF VISITORS 150 mph (240 kmph) the racers reach and exceed.
13–15,000 5"/%3"(&& .BODIFTUFS
%VCMJO 6/*5&% Scars of tractor tire imprints mix with dripped
DAYTIME *3&-"/%
,*/(%0.
TEMPERATURES May: 62°F remains from slurry tankers to create a slippery
(17°C) and below freezing at night; -POEPO slime. The narrow roads boast spectacular
rain is always a possibility
motocross-style jumps, projecting man and
machine into the air at over 100 mph (160 kmph). ABOVE Bikers preparing for the Isle of Man TT races in the
Motorcycle racing is not all about the biggest If there is an edge, then the riders are right on it. purpose-built paddocks
being best. Tandragee is a small unassuming One mistake and it is likely to be their last.
town in Northern Ireland that is probably not on The TT Races boast a purpose-built, ticket-
anyone’s vacation destination wish-list. Scratch controlled complex of paddock buildings where
below the surface, though, and you will find a bikes and competitors prepare. At Tandragee, the
town of friendly people who know how to squeeze paddock is a more charming open-access field,
the very pips out of life. They love to party hard where, in the past, buckets of water have been PRACTICAL INFORMATION
and know their motorcycle racing like the backs supplied to scrub mud from slick tires.
Getting There and Around prepared from local beef cattle,
of their hands. It is a way of life for the town’s Half-a-dozen races entertain the appreciative
The airport closest to Tandragee and the salmon, which is served
residents, as much as the Sunday visit to church. crowds, with everything from the buzzing is in Belfast (Belfast City Airport), fresh from the coast.
The TT Races held on the Isle of Man are the 120-mph (192-kmph) 125 cc “smoke burners” which is about 30 miles (50 km) Where to Stay
biggest tourist attraction of the year, backed by big to the 200-mph (320-kmph) Superbikes. Visitors from the town. From there, it is Self-catering accommodation is
burrow into hedgerows and climb trees that line best to rent a car, as Tandragee is available in the form of a quaint
a little off the beaten track.
the circuit. When the bikes go by at speed, the true gate lodge (tel. +44 28 3752
However, if you plan on traveling
fan is only a few inches away in the undergrowth, by motorbike, you can take the 4256) located on Tandragee
camera in hand and heart beating fast in case the ferry from Stranraer, situated in Road, which is a short drive from
both Tandragee and another
rider is off-line and on a collision course. western Scotland, to Belfast. town called Markethill.
The riders all set off at once, not in a time trial Alternatively, you can board the
ferry from Holyhead in Wales to Budget per Day for Two
one-at-a-time format as in the TT. Perhaps part of
Dublin, located 80 miles (133 km) US$140, including a rented car,
the appeal of watching the massed start of the from Tandragee. food, and accommodations for
race is the close association with danger and death 3 nights at the gate lodge
Where to Eat
– it is as tangible as the smell of two-stroke oil. Moneypenny’s Restaurant located in Tandragee.
The TT offers a certain amount of danger in the Montagu Arms Websites
and excitement in a sanitized-health-and-safety (www.montagu-arms.com) www.tandragee100.com
offers a cosmopolitan menu www.realroadracing.com
controlled sort of way; Tandragee is back to basics,
along with traditional “Ulster www.discovernorthern
raw by comparison, and all about passion. Which
fayre.” You should try the steak, ireland.com
ABOVE A dueling pair of racers rounding a bend at Tandragee would you prefer?
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SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES
MAIN IMAGE Riders tackling the jumps at the Tandragee Motocross
Circuit BELOW (left to right) Spectators waiting for the start of a
race; bikers racing through the streets at Tandragee
4 MORE RACES TO RIVAL THE
ISLE OF MAN TT RACES
SKERRIES, REPUBLIC OF IRELAND Head to Ireland for the
spectacular racing Skerries has to offer. The fact that the people
are extremely friendly and it isn’t far from Dublin provides an
additional motivation to visit.
THE MACAU GRAND PRIX, MACAU, CHINA This is an
unusual alternative to Irish road-racing. The race is held on
the Guia Street Circuit and sees riders actually race through
the city. Instead of fields on each side of the road, there are
walls and barriers.
SCARBOROUGH, NORTH YORKSHIRE, UK Another unusual
“road race,” these races are held in a park with the riders racing
on a narrow lane which makes up the Oliver’s Mount Circuit.
LANDSHAAG, AUSTRIA The only pure road race in Austria is
this awesome one held sometime in mid-April. The race takes
place on a mountain course which is short but narrow, bumpy,
and very difficult.
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SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES The Soup Bowl
vs Bondi Beach
ABOVE Sun-worshipers crowding the sand – and the sea – at
Bondi Beach, Australia
The Soup Bowl, on the rugged east coast of Barbados, offers year-round warm-water FORGET BONDI
surfing and tube rides that put super-crowded Bondi Beach in the shade
BEACH?
THE BUILD-UP Surfing didn’t start at Bondi
easy enough, thanks to a conveniently situated rip
NEED TO KNOW Beach, but sometimes it feels like it. This beach
that ferries surfers to the optimum wave-catching is steeped in Australian surfing history, and no
LOCATION The Soup Bowl position. But once there, the hard work begins, with
is about 10 miles (16 km) wonder: its a half-mile (1-km) stretch of golden
4QFJHIUTUPXO
northeast of Bridgetown, constant motion required to keep you in position sand often has classic beach-break surf, offering
the capital of Barbados 5)& 4061 #08- "UMBOUJD and prepare you for rogue sets that can appear at fun waves for surfers of all levels. There are year-
0DFBO
VISITORS PER YEAR any moment. That’s tough enough, but it pales into round surfing contests and when the swell is big,
Around 600,000 people Bondi can produce good left- and right-breaking
visit Barbados #"3#"%04 insignificance when compared with the ride: a fast,
DAYTIME .BSDImFME vertical descent, as if from a cliff edge, into shallow waves of up to 8 ft (2.5 m) high – enough to
TEMPERATURES #SJEHFUPXO water where urchins lurk on rocks. Get it wrong and challenge the very best surfers. A shark net keeps
Jan: 82°F (28°C); Apr: 84°F (29°C); 4FBXFMM the ocean’s top predators out.
Jul: 84°F (29°C); Oct: 86°F (30°C) 0JTUJOT you will wish you’d opted to idle in the rock pools.
Get it right, though, and you’ll be racing down
THE LETDOWN Bondi Beach is busy. Tourists
the face, tucked under the lip of a giant wave. The flock to the Sydney suburb in their thousands
The fact that Kelly Slater, who is considered to be Soup Bowl’s tubes are the stuff of legend, and, every year, many to try their hand at surfing. This
the world’s greatest surfer, counts the Soup Bowl unlike those at Bondi Beach, can be surfed on all means that there are near-constant crowds on
as one of his favorite breaks is a fair indication of but a few days of the year. Depending on the size and around the beach, especially on weekends.
the oceanic riches awaiting its visitors. There are and direction of the swell, they can be elegant, There are also some severe rip currents here, with
crystalline barrels galore as perfect waves reel smooth walls suitable for carves, slashes, and the infamous “Backpackers’ Express” ensuring
over a limestone reef, the palm-fringed village of aerials, as much as they are a barrel-rider’s dream. that the lifeguards are always on their toes.
Bathsheba providing an old-world backdrop. In Back on the beach, sipping coconut juice with
GOING ANYWAY? If surfing at Bondi Beach is
contrast to most people’s experience of riding the the laid-back Bajan locals after a day in the water,
your thing, then plan to arrive at sunrise to beat
waves at Australia’s over-hyped Bondi Beach, the the chances are that you’ll agree with Kelly Slater
the crowds. Check the tide times beforehand,
Soup Bowl only exceeds expectations. This is a and count this as one of the best waves in the
either at local surf shops or with the lifeguards,
surfing paradise to set the heart racing, and better world. And despite its upsides, that isn’t something because this will affect the swell.
still, it has a fraction of the Bondi crowds. many people could say about Bondi Beach.
But make no mistake – surfing the Soup Bowl
will test your mettle. With Bathsheba, which is
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
adored by non-surfers for its warm-water rock pool
bathing, facing northeast, the Soup Bowl picks up Getting There and Around Where to Stay
any swell the Atlantic throws at it. Even on calm Flights arrive at Sir Grantley Zed’s Surfing Adventures (www.
days, waves can rear up at the last minute, as if from Adams International Airport in surferspointbarbados.com), run
nowhere, and when the swell gets bigger, this is a Seawell, which is 8 miles (13 km) by local surf guru Zed Layson, is
southeast of Bridgetown. Beware: a surf school that boasts a range
place for experts only, as waves reaching up to 15-ft
some airlines will not allow you of comfortable one- and two-
(4.5-m) high detonate on the reef. Paddling out is to take your surfboard. The best bed apartments on the beach at
way to get around the island is Surfers’ Point, which is 30 minutes’
by car. Rental car companies drive south of Bathsheba.
are found all over the island.
When to Go
Where to Eat Barbados has good surf all year,
Bajan cuisine, which features but the Soup Bowl comes alive
seafood and spices, is served at between October and April.
the island’s restaurants and at the
Budget per Day for Two
outdoor stalls of Oistins, a fishing
community on the south coast. Up to US$150, including food
Nearby, overlooking Miami Beach, and accommodations. Car rental
is Café Luna (www.littlearches. is around US$25–35 a day.
com/dining-overview) – the Website
beef tenderloin here is to die for. www.barbados.org/surfing.htm
ABOVE Surfers walking down to the beach at Bathsheba, Barbados
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SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES
MAIN IMAGE Surfer riding a large, perfectly formed wave, the Soup Bowl,
Barbados BELOW (left to right) Surf shack in Bathsheba; heading to the
beach in a buggy; vibrant mural on the wall of Bathsheba Community Centre
4 MORE SURF BREAKS TO
RIVAL BONDI BEACH
JEFFREYS BAY, EASTERN CAPE, SOUTH AFRICA On the
south coast of South Africa lies the surfing paradise that is
Jeffreys Bay, which boasts one of the best waves in the world
– a long, tubing, super-fast right-hander.
CHICAMA, LA LIBERTAD, PERU The isolated and remote
port of Chicama is home to the longest left-breaking wave in
the world. Rides of over 1 mile (2 km) are possible here, and
better still, this relatively mellow break is not just for experts.
G-LAND, BAY OF GRAJAGAN, EAST JAVA G-Land was first
surfed in 1972 after a surfer saw the break from an airplane
window. It has since gone on to be justly regarded as one of
the most perfect waves on the planet.
THURSO EAST, CAITHNESS, SCOTLAND The north shore of
Scotland might not seem to be the obvious choice for surfing,
but it is home to countless excellent reef breaks, including the
world-class Thurso East. Situated in the shadow of a ruined castle
at the mouth of the River Thurso, this break is widely thought
to be the best wave in the UK, but be warned – it’s very cold.
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238 44 MORE EXHILARATING SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES
SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES
‘
ABOVE Invigorating whitewater rafting along the Karnali river in Nepal
RIGHT Dogsleds racing through the snow-covered landscape, Lapland, Finland
RAFTING THE KARNALI, NEPAL Nepal is home to the highest mountains on earth, and DOG SLEDDING, FINLAND Forget Father Christmas – Lapland’s real draw is its
the rivers that run down them are fast, deep, and brimming with whitewater as a result. awesome scenery and tangible sense of remoteness. Winters are long and dark,
The Karnali is Nepal’s longest river, and a multi-day trip along it marries tricky, adrenalin- summers short and magnificent, and the sky seems impossibly vast. The husky dogs
charged early sections with calmer moments toward its end. The route also takes in here are fascinating, charismatic creatures, blending the enthusiasm typical of domestic
some of Nepal’s most dramatic scenery, including jagged mountains, lush jungle, and dogs with otherworldly looks and phenomenal strength and stamina. Enter a tug-of
rare pockets of savanna. The river runs through remote Bardia National Park, offering the war with one and you’ll be yanked off your feet, but taking the reins is a wonderful
chance to see rhinos, wild elephants, and crocodiles. sensation, and speeding through the snow on a sled an achingly beautiful experience.
SPHEREING, ROTORUA, NEW ZEALAND People had tried rolling around in giant balls SEA KAYAKING, PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND, ALASKA You may have paddled down
before of course – and hamsters have been doing it for years – but the sulphurous, rivers or lakes, but kayaking on the sea really is something else. The ocean seems to
activity-mad town of Rotorua is where sphereing (or “zorbing,” as the locals call it) really breathe beneath you, its vast expanse making you feel at once utterly insignificant and
took off. Participants clamber into giant cushioned balls, wobble their way through a connected to something very big indeed. And if it’s scale you want, this southern dent in
starting gate, and then careen down a 656-ft (200-m) hill or zig-zag course, spinning Alaska’s great bulk is the place to be. Its calm waters mean even beginners can paddle
head over heels in a breathless and completely undignified rush. A “wet” ride adds soapy past icebergs, watch glaciers calve, and spot whales and sea otters; experts can range far
water to the equation, for the full spin-cycle experience. and wide, packing gear into canoe bags and camping on remote stretches of the coast.
PLANICA SKI JUMP, SLOVENIA FISHING, DENMARK Denmark’s KLOOFING, SOUTH AFRICA While
Skiing is Slovenia’s national sport, and complex coastline is dotted with islands, most of the world calls it canyoning,
more records have been set at these fjords, and beaches. Nowhere in the South Africans have their own word for
jumps than anywhere else in the world. country is more than 33 miles (53 km) the practice of throwing oneself off cliffs
It’s unlikely you’ll fancy braving any of from the sea, and sea-fishing trips to into pools, sliding down rivers, and
them yourself (the drops look utterly catch cod, mackerel, sea trout, and eel scrambling up wet rocks. There are
intimidating) but the annual World Cup are justifiably popular. Permits are easy bigger drops elsewhere, but Cape Town’s
event, held in late March, attracts hordes to obtain and well-stocked rivers and Table Mountain National Park offers the
of spectators – there for the party and lakes inland ensure that there’s plenty finest collection of kloofs (ravines) so
the sight of the daring athletes. to keep anglers happy too. close to a major city.
WRESTLING, MEXICO CITY Faster, BUSHWALKING THE OVERLAND SKI-JORING, SWITZERLAND If simply
more dexterous and more reliant on TRACK, AUSTRALIA There are some going with the slope’s flow in one of
aerial stunts than their American cousins, stellar alternatives, but the king of Switzerland’s many ski resorts is getting
Mexico’s wrestlers would create a Australia’s bushwalking destinations is in a little boring, you may want to consider
spectacle even without the culture that laid-back Tasmania. The Overland Track ski-joring, in which horses drag skiers
has grown up around them. In lucha libre takes five to six days, and you’ll have to along the flat in a shower of snow.
(free fighting) most competitors don carry enough food to see you through. Regular spectator races will give you
masks and adopt fake identities: some Tramping past shimmering tarns and an idea of what’s involved – in St. Moritz
are técnicos (the skilful good guys), others grand peaks you may see wombats, you can even watch experts whizzing
rudos (the bullyboys and cheats). Tasmanian devils, and even platypuses. along behind galloping reindeer.
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ABOVE Sailing the Adriatic off the Dalmatian Coast
SAILING THE ADRIATIC The sparkling blue sleeve of the Adriatic skirts Italy’s eastern CYCLING THE LOIRE, FRANCE Take HOT AIR BALLOONING, TURKEY
shore on one side, and those of Croatia, Montenegro, and Albania on the other. Croatia’s advantage of the “Loire-à-Vélo” route The ancient volcanic landscape of
dusty coast and charming islands are increasingly popular stops for sailors – whether to explore the glorious châteaux and Cappadocia (see pp230–31) is at its most
they’re trying the activity for the first time or taking their own boats on epic routes vineyards of the Loire Valley. You can fantastical seen from above, as dawn
around the Med. Picturesque Hvar and lively Split make fine stops, but if you want to wend your way along the river on over creeps up over its weird and wonderful
venture further off the beaten track, Albania is becoming increasingly hip, its classical 190 miles (300 km) of designated cycle rock formations. Balloons take flight from
sites and mountainous interior as appealing as its developing beach scene. routes between Orléans and the Atlantic. the town of Göreme.
CAVING, PUERTO RICO In the wild heart MOUNTAINBOARDING, ITALIAN DOLOMITES Mountainboards are not the most
of Puerto Rico is a compelling subterranean graceful pieces of sporting equipment, their flexible bodies set off by four oversized
world of vast caves, submerged rivers, and rubber tires. Riding them, twisting your body into turns, and crouching down over
huge stalagmites. Sightseeing tours around bumps, can feel even more ungainly. The gear isn’t cheap and the sport is still in its early
Río Camuy give you a taste, while organized stages, but week-long instruction courses are a fine way to hone your skills. The resort
expeditions in the hills nearby include town of Cortina offers rolling slopes on which to bust those fly moves – and some rather
rappelling, canyoneering, and stunning hikes. flash shopping opportunities if you feel the need to regain some elegance after class.
HORSE SAFARIS IN THE MASAI MARA, KENYA The mind-boggling Great Migration, in WATCHING JAI ALAI, THE SCRAMBLE UP TRYFAN, WALES
which zebras, wildebeests, and gazelles sweep across the savanna, looks sensational on PHILIPPINES Often claimed to be the Two legends are attached to this mountain.
TV and thrilling from the safety of a vehicle. However, to really get an eye on the action, fastest game on earth – the handmade The first is that it’s the only mountain in
try making your own way across the Serengeti on horseback. Riders can join tour groups rubber balls can fly at over 150 mph Wales you can’t climb without using your
in Kenya on trips lasting a week or longer, cantering alongside and amongst the herds, (240 kph) – jai alai was imported to the hands – the scramble up its jutting crags
while spotting lions, hippos, and elephants along the way. You do need previous Philippines from Spain’s Basque country. requires considerable concentration and
experience in the saddle (most companies will only take skilled riders), but the area’s It’s a furious spectacle, vaguely related to a head for heights. The second is that by
altitude means that neither the temperature nor the mosquitoes are too troubling and, handball, in which players sling the ball making the leap between two pillar-like
while the days can be exhausting, expeditions generally come with luxuries such as from basketed hands against a massive rocks at its summit (3,000 ft/915 m) you
chefs, beer, and ice cubes. wall, cheered on by fanatical crowds. earn the “Freedom of Tryfan.”
WATCHING THAI BOXING, THAILAND WINDSURFING, PENGHU ISLANDS, KITESURFING, PREÁ, BRAZIL First
Strongly ritualistic, shockingly violent, and TAIWAN Lying around 50 km (30 miles) things first: kitesurfing is not easy, and
followed with real passion throughout west of the mainland, the Penghu all too often you end up wrestling with
Thailand, Muay Thai is one hell of a Archipelago is a popular retreat for the wind and cursing. Yet while it has
spectacle. Catch a fight in Bangkok, where Taiwanese vacationers. The winds that a tricky learning curve (lessons for
clamorous, hard-gambling crowds and eroded its distinctive stacks and cliffs also beginners are almost essential),
hammering percussion serve as the make it a world-famous windsurfing kitesurfing is not a world away from
backdrop for nightly fights. You can even destination – home both to international windsurfing, and Preá beach, with its
undertake training yourself – with no competitions and numerous rental warm waters and almost constant
obligation to actually step into the ring. outfits offering lessons to beginners. breeze, is a superb place to learn.
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ABOVE Tour skaters on frozen Nordreälvs Fjord near Gothenburg, Sweden
RIGHT Locals performing a dazzling capoeira move on a beach in Bahia, Brazil
TOUR SKATING, SWEDEN Skating rinks, whether you zoom round them with poised CAPOEIRA, BRAZIL Like many martial arts, capoeira came into existence because of the
efficiency or wobble your way along the barriers, are fine for a few sessions. But if you don’t limitations placed on the poorer members of society – in Brazil’s case, slaves who were
want to be restricted to such a small area, there are alternatives. Tour skaters use longer, forbidden from carrying weapons or practicing formal fighting techniques. Couched in the
thinner blades, often attached to skiing boots, which are far more stable than figure skates, movements of dance, the kicks, spins, cartwheels, and blocks of modern capoeira are
meaning that even beginners can cover around 6 miles (10 km) on a lake, river, or canal. generally backed by the beat of the single-stringed berimbau. The relaxed coastal city of
Sweden presents a wealth of clubs that can point you in the right direction; for the more Salvador is regarded as the activity’s heartland, and as well as the displays on the city’s
experienced, forays onto frozen stretches of the Baltic Sea are possible. streets, visitors are welcome at the various schools around town, either to watch or learn.
LUMBERJACK WORLD HORSE-RIDING, KYRGYZSTAN WALKING THE CHORO TRAIL, BOLIVIA Peru’s Inca Trail is, of course, magnificent – but
CHAMPIONSHIPS, USA Wisconsin’s Follow part of the Silk Road, Central Asia’s it’s also busy, and hikers are restricted to joining organized groups. Landlocked Bolivia
vast pine forests make it an obvious ancient trade route, on horseback through arguably has better trekking and mountaineering opportunities, many close to its
base for this three-day festival of sawing, Kyrgyzstan. Canter across the wide, open sprawling high-altitude capital, La Paz. The Choro Trail follows Inca paths past ancient
chopping, and climbing, which features steppes dotted with traditional yurts (felt remains, over mountain passes, and into thick cloud forest, and should take three or four
several hundred competitors, 12,000 tents) and over the high passes of the days. It’s a fine way to experience Bolivia’s unique environment, with impossibly blue,
spectators and a whole lot of wood. awesome Tien Shan mountains. broad skies, rare birdlife, and glimpses of the Altiplano’s ancient civilizations.
CRICKET IN THE TROBRIAND ISLANDS, PLAYING CARAMBOLE POOL, THE SKIING IN YONGPYEONG, KOREA
PAPUA NEW GUINEA The inhabitants NETHERLANDS Of all the takes on It’s not the most obvious haven for snow
of the remote Trobriand Islands play their everyday billiards, carambole pool is one hounds, but South Korea’s substantial
own unique form of cricket. The Trobriands of the more unusual. It dispenses with mountains and freezing winters have
come to life during the Milamala Festival, pockets entirely; instead, you carom your put the country in the running for several
usually in July or August, when cricket cue ball into other balls, and rebound off Winter Olympics. Yongpyeong (or Dragon
combines with raucous festivities – the table edges. In Amsterdam’s numerous Valley) is the country’s largest resort, and
presumably not what the missionaries bars, experts put impossible amounts of the 31 runs here offer a variety of terrains,
who introduced the sport had in mind. spin on their shots – and most will be lined with trees and often blessed with
delighted to give you a lesson. sharp blue skies.
KAYAKING IN GWAII HAANAS SINGAPORE GRAND PRIX September KAYAKING THE ARDÈCHE, FRANCE
NATIONAL PARK, CANADA The 2008 saw Singapore host its first Grand Prix The limestone of the Ardèche Valley in
archipelago that makes up Gwaii Haanas – and Formula One hold its first nighttime France’s grand Massif Central provides
National Park, miles off the coast of British event. The race exceeded all expectations the raw material for some wonderful
Columbia, is untouched by roads and and is to become a regular event. The features, including the photogenic rock
joint-run by the government and the tight, bumpy track, illuminated by over arch of Pont d’Arc. It’s the start of a series
Haida people. A kayaking expedition is the 3,000 lights, threads through the city of dramatic gorges, pockmarked with
ideal way to experience its thermal pools, streets past colonial buildings and a crowd stalactite-riddled caves and surrounded
fjords, and traditional villages characterized delighted to see motor racing’s biggest by epic cliffs and thick forest that are best
by longhouses and totem poles. series taking place on their doorstep. seen from a kayak.
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ABOVE Gymnasts performing at one of Beijing’s amazing acrobatic shows, China
LEFT Players jostling for the ball during an elephant polo match in Nepal
ELEPHANT POLO, NEPAL It started as an expat joke, but elephant polo makes for a ACROBAT DISPLAYS, BEIJING, CHINA DEEP SEA FISHING, CAPE TOWN,
serious spectacle. Meghauli, in the flat, agricultural western Terai, hosts the tournament Acrobatics in China go back to 500 BC, SOUTH AFRICA The waters off the coast
on its airstrip every December, with teams coming from Britain, India, Australia, Hong and Beijing has some of the best venues. of Cape Town, where the Atlantic and the
Kong, and beyond. The field is slightly smaller than standard, due to the elephants’ Today, you can see high-wire acts, cycling, Indian Oceans meet, offer some of the best
slower pace, while two people ride each mount, a mahout directing the elephant and a juggling, conjuring, gymnastics, and big-game fishing in the world. Hook
stick-wielding player hitting the ball. The action is surprisingly fast-paced and passionate, animal dances based on folk traditions – yellow-fin tuna, swordfish or, if you’re lucky,
with group stages preceding a knock-out contest. all in the same evening’s entertainment. a whopping 1,000-lb (450-kg) blue marlin.
CAMEL-TREKKING, MOROCCO Graceless DIVING AT NINGALOO, AUSTRALIA The hot, dry North West Cape might not seem
and hard to ride, camels are not natural Australia’s most alluring destination, but poke your head under the water and there’s all
mounts but they are the best way to travel in manner of life to see. Hundreds of species of coral and fish support a vast ecosystem,
the desert. On an organized trek, your camel topped by turtles, manta rays, sharks, and whales, but while there are growing tourist
will follow ancient trade routes through facilities, Ningaloo Marine Park is far more low key than the Great Barrier Reef. Its
shifting sands to reach massive dunes and stunning, deserted beaches offer perfect chill-out opportunities, while Coral Bay is a
the vast empty spaces of the Sahara. dazzling playground for both casual snorkelers and experienced divers.
HIKING IN WYOMING, USA Yellowstone LAWN BOWLS, UK Despite its reputation ISLAND-TO-ISLAND SWIMMING, VOLCANO CLIMBING, GUATEMALA
and the Teton Range may be Wyoming’s for attracting Britain’s grey-haired elders, GREECE The Cyclades can be swamped With its fertile flood plains, rain forest,
main trekking areas, but if you want to get lawn bowls is a lot of fun for all ages. The with tourists in summer, but a swim tour buzzing cities, and Pacific and Caribbean
away from the crowds, head for the state’s aim of this skilful game is to roll a black ball, will let you really immerse yourself in the coastlines, Guatemala is not short of
highest, longest and often most stunning or “bowl,” across a smooth grass lawn to hit Aegean – far away from the crowds. The attractions, but its epic chain of volcanoes
range. In the Wind River Mountains, hikers a small white ball, or “jack.” Sounds easy? tours take in uninhabited islands and takes top billing for most adventurous
can follow the scenic Glacier Trail or the Not so. The bowls are biased (weighted) on open water, and even involve treks up visitors. At 7,380 ft (2,250 m) Pacaya is
lovely route from Lander to Valentine and one side and in the case of crown-green hills. Boats accompany groups on most the classic climb, while Tajumulco, at
Washakie lakes. There are fishing and bowls, the lawn has a slightly convex trips, although you need to be a decent 13,845 ft (4,220 m), is the highest point in
geyser trips for the footsore. surface. Runaway balls are not uncommon. swimmer to sign up. Central America and has views to Mexico.
MARATHON DES SABLES, MOROCCO A DAY AT THE RACES, IRELAND With GOLF IN EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND
The toughest foot race in the world is over its dressing up and reputation as a boozy Scotland may be the home of golf,
158 miles (254 km) long – more than five day out, it can be easy to forget that horse- but most visitors are totally unaware
times the length of a regular marathon. racing is a sport. In Ireland, Kildare is that they can play on a historic course
Competitors carry all their gear and run home to the Curragh Racecourse, named a few minutes’ walk from Edinburgh’s
over energy-sapping dunes; temperatures after the grassy plain on which it sits. The center. The Bruntsfield Links may have
can edge over 122°F (50°C); and most track hosts many of Ireland’s greatest flat been used for the sport as early as the
runners take six days of pain to reach the races, including the Irish Derby in late 15th century, and are a lovely, relaxed
finish line. Incredibly, some athletes June or early July, with its boisterous setting for a pitch and putt, overlooked
complete the route in less than 24 hours. atmosphere and serious competition. by the craggy Arthur’s Seat.
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Pre-historic rock paintings depicting women, ostriches, and cattle at Jebel Acacus, Libya (p254)
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ART AND CULTURE
Smaller Parisian Museums
vs Musée du Louvre
The illustrious Louvre is an undisputed crowd-puller but, if you prefer a little breathing space with your culture,
Paris has a host of lesser-known art museums with equally commendable credentials
studded crown of Empress Eugénie. But, let’s face it, The exquisite good taste of an art-adoring
NEED TO KNOW
35,000 works of art can be downright daunting. 19th-century couple, Edouard André and Nélie
LOCATION Paris is 6/*5&%
,*/(%0. Where to begin? Where to finish? How to stay on Jacquemart, is in evidence in their former family
located on the Seine in -JMMF
the Île de France region your feet? Don’t feel guilty, you can love the Louvre home. Here, English portraits are displayed with
of north-central France 1"3*4 4USBTCPVSH but you can leave it, too. For beyond its imposing Tiepolo friezes, French tapestries with Van Dycks,
VISITORS PER YEAR '3"/$& walls lie smaller, more accessible collections, some and their assembled collection of Early Italian
Around 28 million 48*5;&3-"/%
#BZ PG of them housed in mansions that also permit you a Renaissance paintings is breathtaking.
DAYTIME #JTDBZ -ZPO *5"-:
TEMPERATURES glimpse of long-vanished lives and lifestyles. The collections in the Musée Cognacq-Jay,
Jan: 37°F (3°C); Apr: 52°F #PSEFBVY .BSTFJMMF The extraordinary Musée National du Moyen amassed by another prosperous husband-and-wife
(11°C); Jul: 68°F (20°C);
Oct: 54°F (12°C) .FEJUFSSBOFBO Age combines the remains of an ancient thermal team, favor the 18th century, with outstanding
41"*/ 4FB
spa, a Gothic mansion, and a vast collection of French Rococo paintings, and Sèvres porcelain
medieval art and artifacts. The most highly prized far too beautiful to eat off.
It is one of the world’s greatest art collections, exhibits in the museum are a set of six radiant Despite its loveliness, the Musée Nissim de
some 8 miles (13 km) of Egyptian, Greek, Etruscan, wool-and-silk tapestries, and the carved stone Camondo is founded on sadness. On the death of
Islamic, French, Italian, Flemish, and Dutch treasures (noseless) heads of the Kings of Judah. his aviator son Nissim, in World War I, Count Moïse
marshalled into an impossibly sumptuous royal The Institut du Monde Arabe reaches even de Camondo, a passionate collector of 18th-
palace. And it has something for everyone: further back in time, showcasing Arabic history and century French furniture and art, retreated from
Renaissance masterpieces by Botticelli, Raphael, culture with exhibits such as urns and carpets dating society and bequeathed his lavishly furnished
and da Vinci; the Rubens-filled Medici Gallery; the from prehistory to the present day. Interestingly, these house to the State in memory of his son.
Winged Victory of Samothrace; the Venus de Milo; relics of the ancients are housed in an ultra-modern In the 1930s, a group of artists campaigned to
sphinxes and mummies; and the 2,490-diamond- building, acclaimed for its architectural innovation. save the home of Eugène Delacroix from demolition.
Today, it houses a wide range of his works, along
with his easel, palette, and other memorabilia.
FORGET THE LOUVRE?
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
THE BUILD-UP The Louvre was founded in 1793 to
display the royal collection and, as that grew, so did Getting There and Around Where to Stay
the museum. Subsequent rulers added their flourishes Paris is served by two airports: Hôtel du Petit Moulin (www.
to create this marvelous architectural amalgam, filled Charles de Gaulle (CDG), 19 paris-hotel-petitmoulin.com),
to its pitched rafters with art from all over the world. miles (30 km) northeast of Paris, a former bakery, offers Christian
and Orly, 11 miles (18 km) Lacroix-designed rooms and
THE LETDOWN More than eight million visitors a south. Transportation options trompe-l’oeil artwork panels, and
from both include trains (RER B
year means crushing crowds and, once inside, little in an exclusive, guests-only bar.
for CDG, RER C for Orly); shuttle
the way of crowd control. Catching a glimpse of the When to Go
services (www.cars.airfrance.fr);
Mona Lisa devoid of flashing, whirring cameras is April to June is delightful in Paris;
RATP buses (Roissybus and
impossible, and she’s behind a thick shield of bullet- Orlybus); and taxis. The best way September and October are also
proof glass. The cut-off point for the collection of getting around is the Métro. good as there are fewer tourists.
is 1848, disappointing for fans of modern art. Budget per Day for Two
ABOVE Crowds of visitors gather round the Mona Lisa, probably Where to Eat
the most famous and most popular painting in the Louvre Paris is a dream destination for Around US$360, including
GOING ANYWAY? As a rule, there are fewer crowds diners. Try Le Chateaubriand in the accommodations, meals, local
in the evening but, if this is not convenient, buy a ticket online in advance (www.louvre.fr). You can’t see 11th arrondissement (tel. +33 transportation, and admissions.
everything in one visit, so plan ahead and make a hit list, or be spontaneous and enjoy what you find. 1 43 57 45 95) for its bistronomie Website
(gourmet food at bistro prices). www.parisinfo.com
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ART AND CULTURE
MAIN IMAGE Interior view of shutters in the Institut du Monde Arabe
BELOW (left to right) Portraits in the Musée Jacquemart-André; Young Girl
with a Rose by J-B Greuze, Musée Cognacq-Jay; Musée Nissim de Camondo
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246 6 PARIS ART MUSEUMS TO RIVAL THE LOUVRE
ART AND CULTURE
“To My Only Desire” tapestry from the Lady and the Unicorn series
Wall of solar shutters on the Institut du Monde Arabe
Musée National Institut du Elegant Winter Garden of the Musée Jacquemart-André
du Moyen Age
Monde Arabe Musée Jacquemart-
Amusingly, the most famous inhabitant of the André
flamboyant ex-home of the Abbots of Cluny is Traditional Arab style meets high-tech here, in
female – the captivating Lady and the Unicorn. the hundreds of solar-activated shutters which
Six 15th-century Flemish tapestry panels, full of cover the Institut’s southern façade. These lovely Banker Edouard André and his society painter wife,
charm and hidden symbolism, are housed in an geometric apertures, that open and close according Nélie Jacquemart, traveled the world amassing
impressive circular room here. Five of the elegant to the intensity of the light, were designed by their treasures. Their splendid 19th-century town-
images are believed to portray the senses – taste, celebrated French architect Jean Nouvel to echo house – which, when glimpsed from the sweeping
hearing, sight, smell, touch – while the meaning the intricate wooden balconies of Moorish palaces. Boulevard Haussmann, looks quite unremarkable –
of the sixth, bearing the inscription “To my only Opened in 1987 with the aim of fostering exchange positively drips with art and atmosphere. The
desire,” remains a mystery. Elsewhere, there are between Western and Arab cultures, the Institut library is hung with Dutch paintings, including
glorious 7th-century crowns; stained glass; armor; houses a library, cultural center, exhibition spaces portraits by Rembrandt and Van Dyck, while the
Limoges enamels; a medieval waffle iron; travel and the “Museum of Arab Museums.” This displays superb upstairs “Italian Museum” boasts Uccello’s St
chests; shoes; and textiles from Iran, the Byzantine several hundred items, many on long-term loan George and the Dragon, Botticelli’s Virgin and Child,
Empire, Italy, and England. Stone heads of the from Syria and Tunisia, that trace the history and Mantegna’s Ecce Homo, and sculptures by
Kings of Judah, ripped from the façade of Notre- art of Arabic-Islamic civilization. There are terracotta Donatello and Della Robbia. The pink Venetian
Dame during the Revolution by angry crowds, are urns; slabs from ancient Carthage; frescoes from the Room is crowned with a grand coffered ceiling by
the treasures of the sculpture section. These were Kairouan Mosque and stuccos from the palace of Murano-born Mocetto. Other rooms house works
discovered in 1977, along with a host of other Sabra al-Mansouriya, both in Tunisia; a mesmerizing by French artists Boucher, David, Chardin, and
damaged statues and fragments, in the basement array of gold astrolabes; costumes and jewelry; Nattier, and the double spiral staircase is presided
of a Parisian bank. Outdoors there’s a flourishing ancient manuscripts donated by Yemen; and a over by Tiepolo frescoes depicting the arrival of
medieval physic garden, with a “unicorn forest” magical collection of carpets. Temporary exhibitions Henri III in Venice. The Smoking Room displays
and “carpet of 1,000 flowers,” as well as the ruins showcase Arab life and culture, and have included Nélie’s eclectic collection of curios picked up on
of the Thermes de Cluny (thermal baths), from the paintings of Algeria by 19th-century French her passages through India, Persia, and the British
2nd to 3rd centuries. The frigidarium (cold bath) artists; Napoleon Bonaparte’s travels in Egypt; Isles, and the private apartments include Edouard’s
retains traces of remarkable mosaics, including Venice and its relationship with the Arab world; anteroom, housing his portrait painted by his wife
the delightfully named “Love Riding a Dolphin.” and Arabian horses and their riders. ten years before they were married.
Practical Information Practical Information Practical Information
Address 6 Pl Paul Painlevé, Latin Quarter; tel. +33 1 45 62 11 59; Address 1 Rue des Fossés-St-Bernard, Latin Quarter; tel. +33 1 40 51 38 38; Address 158 Bd Haussmann, Champs-Elysées; tel. +33 1 45 62 11 59;
www.musee-moyenage.fr www.imarabe.org www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com
Getting There Métro: Cluny-La Sorbonne, St-Michel; Odéon; bus: 21, 27, Getting There Métro: Jussieu, Cardinal Lemoine, Sully-Morland; bus: 24, Getting There Métro: Miromesnil, St-Philippe-du-Roule; bus: 22, 28, 43,
38, 63, 85, 86, 87. 63, 67, 86, 87, 89. 52, 54, 80, 83, 84, 93.
Opening Times 9:15am–5:45pm Wed–Mon. Opening Times 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Opening Times 10am–6pm daily.
6/2/09 17:05:15
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ART AND CULTURE
François Boucher’s The Beautiful Kitchen Maid, Musée Cognacq-Jay Dramatic, brooding self-portrait by Eugène Delacroix
Musée Musée National
Sculptures in the grand stairwell of the Musée Nissim de Camondo
Cognacq-Jay Eugène Delacroix
Musée Nissim
While Ernest Cognacq and Marie-Louise Jay owed de Camondo While it’s true that the most famous work of
their considerable fortune to factory-made goods France’s leading Romantic painter – the bare-
(he founded the department store La Samaritaine breasted Liberty Leading the People – resides in
in 1869), their personal tastes were anything but Once settled into the vast Right Bank mansion that the Louvre, Delacroix’s former home and studio
modern and middle-of-the road. They preferred he modeled on Marie Antoinette’s Petit Trianon in is worth a visit for its artistic insight. Here, you’ll
the 18th century, and spent an impressive amount Versailles, Count Moïse de Camondo, former banker find small oil paintings; drawings and pastels;
of time (around 25 years) and corresponding to the Ottoman Empire, indulged his passion for the lithographs; and his only three attempts at fresco;
coinage amassing their collection. Works by French 18th century. Today, it almost feels as if the Count as well as the tools of his trade – palette, brushes,
Rococo artists La Tour, Fragonard, Van Loo, Boucher, has just stepped out: the table in the dining room and easel. Also on display are items collected on his
Greuze, and Watteau decorate the beautifully is sumptuously set for a dinner, while photographs travels to Morocco, including ceramics, sabres, and
restored 16th-century Hôtel Donon. Twenty rooms, of his fallen son, Nissim, nestle amid other precious kaftans. There are also letters from friends, including
over four floors, chart the aesthetic acumen of keepsakes. Six Aubusson tapestries line the walls George Sand and Charles Baudelaire. Indeed, he
the couple. There are Louis XVI chairs, paneling of his study, and the grand reception rooms brim had a quite a band of admirers, including now-
from the Château d’Eu (King Louis Philippe’s with exquisite items – country scenes painted by legendary artists such as Cézanne, Manet, and Van
summer residence in Normandy), and paintings Jean-Baptiste Huet in 1776, Louis XV and Louis XVI Gogh, all of whom copied his compositions. In
by Rembrandt alongside works by lesser-known furniture, portraits by François-Hubert Drouais, 1849 Delacroix began work on several large murals
artists such as Lavreince. A gallery of sculptures and Sevrès and Meissen porcelain. However, the themed around good and evil for the Chapelle des
features Rococo works by Falconet (a favorite of aptly named Grand Salon is the most spendid of Anges in St-Sulpice. In 1857, seriously ill and unable
Madame de Pompadour), Houdon, and Clodion, all, with its Aubusson upholstered chairs, sculptures to manage the trip across town, he moved his
along with porcelain from Saxe and Sevrès. There’s by Houdon and Clodion, a Savonnerie carpet home and studio here to be nearer to the church.
also a remarkable royal bed, with coiling leaves and from 1678, and exquisite commodes by master His notebooks on the project, along with studies
garlands carved into its posts, and lavish folds of cabinetmaker Adam Weisweiler. Interestingly, the for the murals, form part of the museum’s
damask descending majestically from an ornate trappings of modern life – kitchen, offices, and collection. Impressionist painter Paul Signac was
crown; a writing table inlaid with ivory, conjuring bathrooms – lie hidden behind fine wooden one of the founding members of the Société des
up images of perfumed letters and wax seals; and panelling. The Count died in 1935 and, while his Amis d’ Eugène Delacroix, a group established in
display cabinets brimming with everyday objects house survived World War II intact, tragically all his 1935 to save this studio from being demolished.
such as snuff boxes, and pocket watches. remaining family members perished in Auschwitz.
Practical Information
Practical Information Practical Information Address 6 Rue de Fürstemberg, St Germain-des-Prés; tel. +33 1 44 41 86
Address Hôtel Donon, 8 Rue Elzévir, Marais; tel. +33 1 40 27 07 21; Address 63 Rue de Monceau, Champs-Elysées; tel. +33 1 45 63 26 32; 50; www.musee-delacroix.fr
www.paris.fr/portail/Culture/Portal.lut?page_id=6466 www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/francais/nissim-de-camondo Getting There Métro: St-Germain-des-Près, Mabillon; bus: 39, 63, 70,
Getting There Métro: St-Paul, Chemin Vert, Rambuteau; bus: 29, 69, 76, 96. Getting There Métro: Monceau, Villiers; bus: 30, 84, 94. 86, 95, 96.
Opening Times 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Opening Times 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. Opening Times 9:30am–5pm Wed–Mon.
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ART AND CULTURE
MAIN IMAGE A vineyard in the Tupungato Valley with the Andes in the
distance, Mendoza BELOW (left to right) Vintage bottles in a winery
cellar, Mendoza; harvesting Malbec grapes
4 MORE WINE REGIONS TO
RIVAL NAPA VALLEY
COLUMBIA GORGE, OREGON, USA Take in the awesome
splendor of this towering river canyon as you sip sweet whites
and luscious reds at one of its small vineyards. Then cool off
beneath a gushing waterfall or take to the water by kayak.
CAPE WINELANDS, SOUTH AFRICA A trip to the Cape
promises cloudless African skies, lush green mountain valleys,
and azure seas. While you’re here, head to nearby game reserves
and vibrant townships or take in the delights of Cape Town.
MARLBOROUGH, SOUTH ISLAND, NEW ZEALAND
Marlborough, ringed by rugged mountains on New Zealand’s
South Island, grows some of the world’s best Sauvignon Blanc
grapes. Enjoy tours and tastings before heading to the nearby
coast to swim with dolphins and watch whales.
TOKAJ WINE REGION, HUNGARY The world’s only UNESCO-
protected wine region, Tokaj boasts over 1,000 years of wine-
making, and its wines still age in 700-year-old rock cellars.
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Th R d L T ll d LAYERS PRINTED:
249
Wine-Tasting in Mendoza ART AND CULTURE
vs Wine-Tasting in Napa Valley
In the shadow of the magnificent snowcapped Andes in Argentina, the high-altitude vineyards of Mendoza
are a stunning alternative to the well-trodden wine trails of California’s Napa Valley
their way up to 5,577 ft (1,700 m) above sea level.
NEED TO KNOW
They cross deep fertile valleys and high plains and
LOCATION Mendoza lies in the skirt around enormous vineyards that sweep for
foothills of the Andes in western
Argentina, 440 miles (710 km) .&/%0;" $ØSEPCB miles across the picturesque foothills, boasting
northwest of Buenos Aires fabulous Andean panoramas at virtually every turn.
NUMBER OF #VFOPT "JSFT This dramatic landscape has hundreds of vineyards,
WINERIES 700 "3(&/5*/"
$)*-& from large, family-owned estates to state-of-the-art
DAYTIME
TEMPERATURE "UMBOUJD boutique wineries and little rustic bodegas.
0DFBO
During the autumn harvest 1BDJmD A lazy vineyard walk is the perfect prelude to
festival in March, expect a 0DFBO
daytime average of 82°F (28° C) intimate tastings with wine experts who speak
passionately about their produce. There is little
show here, only great wine. Stop at a high-end ABOVE Bunches of bluish grapes on the vine, Mendoza
Whatever happened to the romance and charm estate for an evening rooftop tasting. Watching
of Napa Valley? It’s an all-too-familiar lament, and the sun set behind the towering Andes as aromatic abundant varietals, but its most outstanding wine is
one with a simple answer: they’ve been put in premium varietals roll across your tongue is an a deep, rich red, made from the Malbec grape, which
the shade by Mendoza, Argentina’s premier wine- exquisite experience. Stay overnight at a luxury flourishes in the dry air and high altitude. Malbec
growing region. Likened to the pre-boom Napa wine spa before visiting a small bodega that has enthusiasts can attend gourmet lunches hosted by
Valley of the early 1980s, Mendoza is an emerging remained unchanged for a century, with cobbled winery owners who pair the wine with local cuisine,
destination of empty roads and fabulous, exotic courtyards that open directly onto the vineyard. or travel on horseback to vineyards where the grape
wines. And the vineyards here, set against a Here, sweating mules still plough between the thrives. The riding routes skirt herds of guanacos
splendid backdrop of the soaring, white-tipped vines, grapes are pressed by hand, and ice-cold beneath the gaze of Andean condors gliding high in
Andes, are some of the most scenic in the world. run-off from the Andes irrigates the fertile land. the sky. Ahead, among a whirl of soaring rock faces,
Mendoza’s roads, many of which are prettily Mendoza’s wines have at last won the global is Aconcagua, the highest peak in the world outside
lined with poplars and sycamores, gently wind recognition they deserve. The region produces Asia. It’s a dizzyingly beautiful scene.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
FORGET NAPA VALLEY?
Getting There and Around (kid goat), a local specialty, and
There are regular flights from accompany with a rich Malbec.
THE BUILD-UP Napa Valley, which is just an hour north of
Argentina’s capital, Buenos Aires, Where to Stay
San Francisco by car, is renowned for its world-class wines. to Mendoza City. Shuttle buses
Each year, hundreds of thousands of enthusiasts visit its 300 run from Mendoza’s airport to Nestled at the foot of the Andes
in its own vineyards, Cavas Wine
or so wineries by bicycle, luxury 4WD, hot-air balloon, or the city center. The region’s three Lodge (www.cavaswinelodge.
aboard the Napa Valley Wine Train. Rolling green hills main wine-growing areas – com) boasts luxury suites and
provide a picturesque backdrop to wine crawls in the area. Luján de Cuyo, Valle de Uco, and a spa with wine-therapy
Maipú – are only a short drive treatments.
away. Tour agencies run tours of
THE LETDOWN Napa has sadly shed much of its original When to Go
varying lengths and provide
charm. Tours emphasize entertainment over wine and tastings itineraries should you wish to Visit during the harvest season
have a happy-hour feel, led by volunteers that are more like explore alone. from February to March, when
bartenders than wine experts. Highway 29, the region’s main Where to Eat visitors help with grape-picking
ABOVE A busy picnic spot at the V. Sattui Winery, and take part in Vendimia, the
road, is bumper to bumper with cars during the high season.
St. Helena, Napa Valley, California Housed within the Escorihuela area’s lively wine-harvest festival.
Winery – one of Mendoza’s oldest
GOING ANYWAY? Try to visit outside the peak season. Spring is a great time to go, when the weather is wineries – is the sumptuous Budget per Day for Two
warm, there are fewer tourists and the winery owners are less busy. If you plan on traveling in the high Francis Mallman 1884 restaurant US$375 including wine tours,
accommodations, and dining out.
season, aim for a midweek stay and book early-morning tastings to avoid the crowds. Try the wineries on (www.escorihuela.com), which
serves classic Argentinian cuisine. Website
the Silverado Trail, a more scenic, less-traveled alternative to Highway 29.
Order a succulent steak or chivita www.argentinawineroute.com.ar
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ART AND CULTURE FORGET
MT RUSHMORE?
THE BUILD-UP Mount Rushmore, which was
completed in 1941, is one of the most iconic
images in America. Whether or not its patent
nationalism appeals, the sheer scale of the
monument is impressive. So too is the story of
how 400 workers blasted and carved it out of a
granite ridge at a height of 5,725 ft (1,745 m).
You can’t help marveling at such details as
George Washington’s nose or Theodore
Roosevelt’s moustache, as well as at the
beautiful scenery of the Black Hills.
THE LETDOWN The presentations given to
visitors are staunchly patriotic in tone, and
some of the monument’s symbolism may be lost
on those who aren’t familiar with American
ABOVE The giant sculpture of Crazy Horse from below, South Dakota history. Mount Rushmore is highly popular
in summer, so expect crowds.
Crazy outstretched arm pointing towards the southeast GOING ANYWAY? Bring binoculars to better
see the sculpted details and to spot mountain
– a gesture that is meant to recall his poignant
Horse words: “My lands are where my dead lie buried.” goats clambering around the noble faces. Arrive
early to beat the crowds and catch the clear
Work on the sculpture started in 1948 when
morning light. Observe how the faces appear
vs Mt. Rushmore Lakota Chief Henry Standing Bear asked Korczak to change with the movement of the sun.
Ziolkowski, a Polish-American sculptor who had
worked on Mount Rushmore, to design a monument
honoring Native American people. Crazy Horse
The world’s largest sculpture in the making never allowed himself to be photographed, so
stands head and shoulders above Mt. Rushmore rather than being an exact likeness, this sculpture
represents the spirit of Native America. The face,
measuring 87 ft (27 m) high, was completed in
NEED TO KNOW
1998. Workers are now blocking out the horse’s
LOCATION The Crazy Horse head, and depending on what is happening on
Memorial is in the Black Hills $ "/"%"
of South Dakota near Custer, 4FBUUMF the day you visit, you may be able to see and hear
about 40 miles (65 km) the explosive blasts used to shape the rock before
southwest of Rapid City $3";: )034&
4BO 'SBODJTDP carving begins. When it is completed, the sculpture ABOVE The heads of four US presidents carved out of the
VISITORS PER 8BTIJOHUPO % $ rock at Mount Rushmore, South Dakota
YEAR 1 million of Crazy Horse will be 563 ft (172 m) high and
-PT "OHFMFT 6 4 "
DAYTIME 641 ft (195 m) long, dwarfing Mount Rushmore.
TEMPERATURES The enormous sculpture was unfinished
Jan: 22°F (-6°C); Apr: 45°F (7°C);
Jul: 72°F (22°C); Oct: 48°F (9°C) .&9*$0 when Ziolkowski died in 1982, and his wife and
sons have continued his work. Ziolkowski refused
to accept government funds, believing it would PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Carved into a granite outcrop in South Dakota’s compromise the project’s cultural and educational
Getting There and Around Where to Stay
Black Hills, Mount Rushmore is one of America’s mission, so this work-in-progress is entirely funded
Flights go from major US cities The Victorian Custer Mansion
most patriotic landmarks. Here, the 60-ft (18-m) by donations and admission fees. to Rapid City Regional Airport, Bed and Breakfast (www.
faces of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, which is 40 miles (65 km) away custermansionbb.com) has
Abraham Lincoln, and Theodore Roosevelt gaze from Crazy Horse. You will need charming rooms and serves
out across the Great Plains. Journey 17 miles (25 km) a car to drive to the monument. hearty breakfasts.
Several car-rental companies are When to Go
to the southwest, however, and you’ll see a newer,
located at the airport. Spring and fall have the most
larger, and equally impressive sculpture slowly pleasant temperatures and
Where to Eat
being carved out of another mountain. fewer crowds than the summer.
Diners, cafés, and steakhouses in
The monument depicts Native-American hero the area serve regional fare, such Budget per Day for Two
Crazy Horse, the Lakota warrior who defeated as burgers, steaks, and buffalo. US$200 including admission,
General Custer at the 1876 Battle of the Little The Steak ‘n Ribs Place (www. accommodations, transportation
and food.
Bighorn, and is chiseled out of Thunderhead steaknribsrestaurant.com) in
nearby Custer is set in a handsome Website
Mountain, a site considered sacred by some tribes.
bank building dating from 1881. www.crazyhorse.org
The figure sits astride a galloping horse and has an ABOVE Model showing what the finished monument will look like
15/4/09 16:42:06
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FORGET THE VAN ART AND CULTURE
GOGH MUSEUM?
THE BUILD-UP The Van Gogh Museum boasts
the largest collection of the artist’s work in the
world and offers visitors the chance to compare
his style to that of other 19th-century artists,
including Toulouse-Lautrec, Gauguin, and
Seurat. It is conveniently located close to the
Rijksmuseum on Museumplein (Museum
Square) in Amsterdam, which has an extensive
collection of the work of other Dutch masters.
ABOVE Detail of the sky in Van Gogh’s Country Road in Provence by Night, THE LETDOWN The temptation to view so
Kröller-Müller Museum many great works of art all together can be
irresistible. But how much can the brain absorb
at one viewing, especially when you’re vying for
Kröller- that a museum be built to house them. Her wish was viewing space with so many visitors? Nearly
2 million people visit the museum every year.
granted, and in 1938 the Kröller-Müller Museum
Müller opened on the family estate at Hoge Veluwe. GOING ANYWAY? Amsterdam is undoubtedly
Helene’s favorite artist was Van Gogh, who
one of the most popular and interesting cities
vs the Van Gogh she believed “created modern Expressionism.” She in Europe, and its museums are renowned the
purchased 91 of his paintings and 175 drawings, and,
world over. The Van Gogh Museum has a very
good English-language website that is essential
while this is less than half the number owned by the
Museum Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam, it represents a reading if you wish to make the most of your
visit. It is better to visit off-season and at either
more digestible helping for one visit. Look out for
the arresting Self Portrait of 1887, in which the end of the day (particularly at opening time)
For the best of Van Gogh, leave the city artist’s face emerges from a thunderous, swirling to avoid the worst of the crowds.
behind and head into the Dutch countryside background and seems to stare right at you, and
Four Cut Sunflowers, with its fiery yellow petals that
appear to flicker on the canvas. The paint has been
NEED TO KNOW
applied so thickly in The Sower (1888) and Country
LOCATION The Kröller-Müller Road in Provence by Night (1890) that the works
Museum is 50 miles (80 km) /PSUI
4FB
southeast of Amsterdam in (SPOJOHFO have a shimmering quality, the energy from the
the center of Hoge Veluwe bright stars and the sun somehow radiating far
National Park /&5)&3-"/%4
"NTUFSEBN beyond the edges of the canvases. The famous piece
VISITORS PER YEAR ,3½--&3
.Ã--&3
Around 260,000 5IF )BHVF Café Terrace at Night (1888) is also on display. Some
.64&6.
DAYTIME critics believe this is part of a trilogy that includes
(&3. "/:
TEMPERATURES Starry Night (1889) and Starry Night Over the Rhone ABOVE Visitors at the Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam
Jan: 39°F (4°C); Apr: 55°F (12°C); &JOEIPWFO
Jul: 72°F (22°C); Oct: 57°F (13°C) #&-(*6. (1888), both of which are exhibited elsewhere.
The Kröller-Müller collection also has a major
collection of 19th- and 20th-century French
Art-lovers anxious to get their fix of Van Gogh paintings and a sculpture garden with distinctive
should bypass the popular Van Gogh Museum works by Auguste Rodin and Henry Moore. PRACTICAL INFORMATION
in Amsterdam, with its overcrowded rooms and
long lines, and head instead to the fascinating Getting There and Around Where to Stay
Schiphol Airport, located on the Try the small and friendly Hotel
Kröller-Müller Museum, located in the heart of Hoge
outskirts of Amsterdam, is 60 Multatuli (www.multatulihotel.
Veluwe National Park in the eastern Netherlands. miles (95 km) from the Kröller- nl), located in the center of
Here you’ll find an extensive collection of the great Müller Museum. You can travel to Amsterdam and named after a
man’s work in an idyllic rural setting of woodland, the museum by car, train, or bus. 19th-century Dutch writer.
heathland, grassy plains, and sand drifts. Where to Eat When to Go
The driest, warmest months are
This fine, isolated museum is named after Helene Amsterdam boasts a good variety
of places to eat, from basic cafés from April to September.
Kröller-Müller, a 20th-century art enthusiast who
to sophisticated restaurants. For Budget per Day for Two
built up a large collection of works, including many a unique dining experience try US$300 including
Van Gogh paintings, with the support of her wealthy De Kas Restaurant (www. accommodations, food,
industrialist husband. But when his business was hit restaurantdekas.nl), with its glass transportation, and entrance
hard during the Great Depression, Helene feared for conservatory. At the museum, to the museum.
there’s a very good self-service Website
the future of her collection, and in 1935 she gave all
café called Monsieur Jacques. www.kmm.nl
11,500 pieces to the Dutch state on the condition ABOVE Van Gogh’s vivid work The Sower, Kröller-Müller Museum
US250-251_art_crazy_horse.indd 251 15/4/09 16:42:44
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252
ART AND CULTURE Rock Art of the
Drakensberg
ABOVE Tourists cluster in the shade around the entrance to
the Lascaux cave complex
vs the Cave Paintings of Lascaux FORGET LASCAUX?
The breathtaking mountain wilderness of Southern Africa’s Drakensberg offers ancient THE BUILD-UP Dubbed the “Sistine Chapel
of Prehistory,” Lascaux is the most famous of
art on a grand scale, dwarfing the skilful artifice at France’s Lascaux 25 painted caves in France’s Vézère Valley,
containing around 1,800 individual figures –
horses, stags, bulls, and other animals – whose
At Giant’s Castle, the prosaically named Main Cave rich color and lifelike detail belie their
NEED TO KNOW
hosts 500 human and animal figures, ranging from antiquity, estimated at 15–35,000 years old.
LOCATION South Africa’s the ubiquitous eland to big cats and snakes. Here,
uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park THE LETDOWN Opened to the public in
#0548"/"
skirts the border of Lesotho, a life-size replica of the so-called “bushmen” serves
200 miles (325 km) south to introduce the artists responsible for this ancient 1948, Lascaux had to close 15 years later when
/".*#*"
of Johannesburg +PIBOOFTCVSH it was noted that changes to the subterranean
tradition. While the oldest paintings in the
DATING FROM microclimate associated with human traffic
1,000 BC to 1880s 6,)")-".#" Drakensberg may be 3,000 years old, the most and artificial lighting would soon destroy the
%3",&/4#&3(
DAYTIME %VSCBO recent are only about 150 – they depict the first ox- paintings. The original cave has never re-
TEMPERATURES 4065) "'3*$" wagons to roll across the escarpment, carrying the opened to the public, and the replica “faux-
Jan: 79°F (26°C); Apr: 72°F (22°C);
Jul: 64°F (18°C); Oct: 75°F (24°C) $BQF 5PXO 1PSU &MJ[BCFUI European settlers who took possession of the land, Lascaux” a short walk away can feel touristy.
shooting the local “bushmen” population on sight.
UKhahlamba-Drakensberg ranks among the GOING ANYWAY? Touristy it may be, but
The Zulu call it uKhahlamba: “Barrier of Spears.” elite group of 26 UNESCO World Heritage Sites to faux-Lascaux is devoutly faithful to the
Dutch settlers, encountering its formidable reptilian be inscribed on both cultural and natural grounds. original. The two finest galleries – the
Chamber of Bulls and Central Corridor – have
spine in the 1830s, named it the Drakensberg, or Boasting spectacular scenery and abundant wildlife,
been reproduced down to the last contour and
“Dragon’s Mountain.” By either name, the jagged its wild beauty is a world away from the landscaped
brushstroke using identical natural pigments
series of peaks over 11,000 ft (3,400 m) rising within walkways of Lascaux. You can ramble through lush
such as ochre, charcoal, and iron oxide.
uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park – Africa’s largest green foothills, brave a hike up to the escarpment,
tract of protected mountain wilderness – is an or snake your way by jeep up the sole pass that
immense and imposing sight, beside which the breaches the Barrier of Spears’ otherwise impregnable
replica caves at Lascaux cannot help but seem border with Lesotho. Far from being stage-managed,
contrived in comparison. the Drakensberg still hosts a profusion of the elands
Below these wild craggy peaks stands a giant so beloved of the bushmen, while quarrelsome
open-air gallery of prehistoric rock art – a full 500 baboons bark shrilly from the cliffs, vying to be
individual painted shelters and caves, remarkable heard above the calls of 300 species of birds.
both for the fine quality of their workmanship and
for their excellent state of preservation. The most
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
complex panels are simply giddying, depicting a
mysterious dreamscape populated by naturalistic
Getting There and Around head to the award-winning
or distended people, a menagerie of wild animals, Fly to Johannesburg or Durban. Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse
and surreal antelope-headed human figures From the airport, rent a car, set (www.cleomountain.com).
known as therianthropes. up a customized tour, or catch Where to Stay
Among the sites that stand out for quality and the inexpensive Baz Bus (www. The Orion Mont-Aux-Sources
bazbus.com) to one of the
accessibility is Game Pass Shelter, which features a (www.oriongroup.co.za) is the
backpacker hostels that organize
beautifully executed main frieze of a herd of elands hiking trips from the foothills. most scenic hotel, but Cathedral
(Africa’s largest antelope) interspersed with various Peak (www.cathedralpeak.co.za)
When to Go beats it for rock art access. For
human figures. Dubbed the “Rosetta Stone” of the October–March is hot and wet; good value, try one of the
uKhahlamba-Drakensberg, it was here that the June–August drier and colder.
national park’s rest camps.
scholar David Lewis-Williams “cracked the code” Where to Eat Budget per Day for Two
of religious symbolism that underlies the area’s All hotels, backpacker hostels, Up to US$150.
rock art, revealing it to depict figures in a state and resorts serve adequate to
good meals, mostly at very Website
of shamanic trance, and hunters absorbing the
reasonable prices. To splash out, www.kznwildlife.com
qualities of the animals they killed.
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ART AND CULTURE
MAIN IMAGE Vibrant frieze in Game Pass Shelter, in the Kamberg area
BELOW (left to right) Drakensberg mountains; eland in Drakensberg
National Park; models depicting traditional bushmen, Giant’s Castle
US252-253_art_drak.indd 253 19/3/09 09:41:19
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16/4/09 11:29:28
254 6 MORE ROCKART SITES TO RIVAL LASCAUX
ART AND CULTURE Jebel Acacus Creswell Crags Gobustan 3644*"
NEED TO KNOW
NEED TO KNOW
NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION Gobustan is
LOCATION Creswell is
LOCATION Jebel
.FEJUFSSBOFBO
56/*4*"
22 miles (35 km) north of
around 30 miles (50 km)
Acacus is around 100 miles
4FB
(&03(*"
(160 km) southeast of
5SJQPMJ
southwest of Baku, capital
Nottingham in the East
2VCB
4VSU
Ghat in Libya
0DFBO
DATING FROM
DATING FROM
DATING FROM
Around 8000 to 3000 BC
Around 8000 BC
12,000 BC to AD 100
4FB
(0#645"/
(IBU 4FCIB -*# : " &(:15 Midlands of England "UMBOUJD &EJOCVSHI /PSUI of Azerbaijan "3.&/*" ";&3#"*+"/ #BLV
DAYTIME +&#&- "$"$64 DAYTIME $3&48&-- DAYTIME
$3"(4
TEMPERATURES TEMPERATURES *3&-"/% /PUUJOHIBN TEMPERATURES
6/*5&%
Jan: 55°F (13°C); Apr: 77°F "M ,VGSBI Jan: 39°F (4°C); Apr: 46°F ,*/(%0. Jan: 40°F (4°C); Apr: 54°F $BTQJBO
(25°C); Jul: 88°F (31°C); /*(&3 (8°C); Jul: 61°F (16°C); -POEPO (12°C); Jul: 79°F (26°C); *3"/ -BOLFSBO 4FB
Oct: 76°F (24°C) $)"% Oct: 51°F (11°C) Oct: 61°F (16°C)
Tucked away in Libya’s remote southwestern England is not particularly known for its rock art, The Gobustan (or Qobustan) State Reserve has an
corner, the Jebel Acacus region (also known as so there was considerable excitement in 2003 estimated 6,000 petroglyphs, scattered amidst the
Tadrart Akakus, tadrart being the Berber word for when prehistoric paintings showing bison, birds, rocky outcrops and caves that dot the desert
“mountain”) is home to one of the world’s greatest and an ibex were discovered at Creswell Crags, landscape southwest of Baku. Carvings include
collections of prehistoric art. There are thousands the only example of Ice Age rock art so far depictions of hunters, animals, battles, and
of rock and cave paintings here in a wide range discovered in the country. Paintings apart, the dancers, as well as a famous image of a reed boat
of styles, dating from 12000 BC to AD 100 and Crags offer a rich insight into life during the last which led Norwegian ethnologist Thor Heyerdahl
showing changing ways of life in the Sahara, Ice Age, between 50,000 and 10,000 years ago. to suggest that Scandinavians might originally
along with depictions of local flora and fauna. The caves here, carved by centuries of erosion have come from this region. Gobustan is also
The area’s fantastical desert scenery is another out of the flanks of a beautiful limestone gorge, known for its belching cold mud volcanoes, and
major attraction, with sweeping sand dunes, rock were used by hunters as a temporary camp during for curious musical stones, which produce strange
arches, the stumps of eroded mountains, and a their seasonal pursuit of herds of migrating sounds when struck with a smaller stone, often
labyrinth of twisting wadis (dry river valleys). mammoths, bison, and reindeer. Creswell is one compared to the noise of a tambourine.
of the most northerly points they ever reached.
Practical Information Practical Information
Getting There and Around Fly to Libya’s capital, Tripoli, then take an Practical Information Getting There and Around Fly to Baku, then continue by bus to Gobustan
onward domestic flight to Ghat (575 miles/ 925 km away). Domestic Getting There and Around The nearest international airport is the East town, some 30 miles (50 km) away. Alternatively, arrange for a vehicle
transfers must be arranged through a Libyan tour operator. Midlands airport near Nottingham. London to Nottingham by train takes with a driver to take you to the site.
When to Go The cooler winter months (Oct–Feb) can be surprisingly about 2 hours. There are train and bus links from Nottingham to Creswell When to Go From April to June the weather is pleasant but not too hot.
temperate, although nights can be teeth-chatteringly cold. station and the Crags respectively. Website www.window2baku.com/eng/Ancient/9gobustan.htm
Website http://looklex.com/libya/acacus.htm When to Go May to September offers the best chance of good weather,
though it may rain at any time of year. Book in advance for cave tours. Striking petroglyphs at Gobustan, showing what seem to be hunters
in pursuit of a horned animal, Azerbaijan
Delicately painted figures at Wadi Anshal appearing to depict Websitewww.creswellcrags.org.uk
musicians, dancers, and feasting as well as hunters and animals, Libya
Dramatic limestone cliffs riddled with caves and crevices, typical of
the scenery at Creswell Crags, UK
7/5/09 11:16:39
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255
Cueva de las Murujuga Font-de-Gaume
Maravillas NEED TO KNOW NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION Murujuga begins INDONESIA LOCATION The caves are 6/*5&%
NEED TO KNOW at Dampier, around 785 miles in the Dordogne region of ,*/(%0. ART AND CULTURE
(1,265 km) north of Perth, Indian Darwin southwest France, 78 miles 1BSJT
LOCATION The cave is Western Australia Ocean Coral (125 km) from Bordeaux
around 30 miles (50 km) "UMBOUJD 0DFBO Sea
DATING FROM MURUJUGA DATING FROM '3"/$&
east of Santo Domingo, in Around 8000 BC Around 12,000 BC
the Dominican Republic 1VFSUP 1MBUB AUSTRALIA '0/5 %& -JNPHFT 48*5;&3-"/%
DAYTIME DAYTIME
DATING FROM )"*5* %0.*/*$"/ TEMPERATURES TEMPERATURES ("6.& -ZPO *5"-:
Around AD 1000 3&16#-*$ Perth Adelaide Sydney
Jan: 91°F (33°C); Apr: 93°F Jan: 42°F (6°C); Apr: 52°F #PSEFBVY
DAYTIME 4BOUP %PNJOHP (34°C); Jul: 82°F (28°C); Melbourne Canberra (11°C); Jul: 70°F (21°C); 5PVMPVTF
TEMPERATURES: $6&7" %& -"4 Oct: 91°F (33°C) Oct: 57°F (14°C)
Jan: 75°F (24°C); Apr: 79°F ."3"7*--"4 41"*/
(26°C); Jul: 81°F (27°C); $BSJCCFBO 4FB
Oct: 81°F (27°C)
The remote Burrup Peninsula, or Murujuga, of There are very few prehistoric painted grottos still
northwestern Australia, is part of the Dampier open to the public. The finest is Font-de-Gaume,
Discovered in 1926, the Cueva de las Maravillas Archipelago. It is home to what is claimed to be with some 240 paintings and engravings dating
(“Cave of Miracles”) is a veritable subterranean art the world’s largest array of rock carvings, dating from around 12000 BC. As at Lascaux, the paintings
gallery. The walls of the single huge grotto, over back some 10,000 years or more. According to were created using color-blowing techniques, as
2,625 ft (800 m) long, are decorated with almost estimates there are as many as a million carvings well as employing the natural contours of the
500 quaintly stylized and perfectly preserved to be found here, showing an astonishing range karst cave walls to lend shape and volume to
pictographs and petroglyphs, created by the Taino of images including animals (kangaroos, emus, figures. There’s a positive menagerie of animals
people around 1,000 years ago. The cave is also snakes, dogs, turtles, and whales) and humans, on display here: bison, mammoths, deer, and
home to an impressive quantity of stalactites, some depicted carrying traditional objects such horses appear most often, but you can also make
stalagmites, columns, and other unusual as boomerangs and wearing ceremonial head- out a wolf, a bear, and two rhinoceroses. Together
crystalline formations. With guided tours lasting an dresses. The threat of industrial development to with enigmatic hand outlines and geometrical
hour, it is well set up for visitors and is one of the the archipelago’s archaeological treasures has shapes, they offer a rare and fascinating glimpse
few caves in the world accessible to wheelchairs. become a cause célèbre for conservationists and, into the lifestyle of a remote Paleolithic era.
in 2007, most of the area was added to Australia’s
National Heritage list. There are ongoing appeals
Practical Information Practical Information
for it to be given UNESCO World Heritage status.
Getting There and Around Fly to Santo Domingo. From here, catch a taxi or Getting There and Around The caves are on the D47 road, 1 km from the
bus to the caves, or take an internal flight to Cueva Las Maravillas airport at town of Les Eyzies. The nearest airport is Bordeaux (90 mins drive away)
San Pedro de Macoris. The caves lie east of here, on the La Romana highway. and the nearest train station at Périgeux (20 mins drive away). You will
Practical Information
When to Go November to April is dry season. The caves are open all year. Getting There and Around Fly to Perth, then catch a connecting flight to need your own transportation to explore the local area. Note that only
Website www. gocaribbean.about.com/od/attract4/gr/LaRomanaCaves.htm Karratha Airport, from where you can rent an off-road vehicle for the 200 visitors are allowed to enter the caves each day. Advance booking is
25-mile (42-km) drive to the Burrup Peninsula. essential in peak season.
Spectacular stalactites descending in curtains from the cave roof at When to Go The cooler winter months from May to October are best. When to Go Easter holidays and July–August are particularly busy. May,
the Cueva de las Maravillas, Dominican Republic June and September offer good weather and fewer crowds.
Website www.burrup.org.au
Website www.francethisway.com/heritagesites/fontdegaume.php
Bird tracks etched into the stone at Deep Gorge on the Burrup
Peninsula of Western Australia
Contours of the cave wall lend volume to images of bison at the
caves of Font-de-Gaume, France
US254-255_art_caveart_fo.indd 255 19/3/09 09:43:13
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256
ART AND CULTURE
MAIN IMAGE Diners at a traditional Lyonnaise bouchon
BELOW (left to right) A fresco paying tribute to local chef Paul
Bocuse; the unmissable Les Halles de Lyon-Paul Bocuse market
4 MORE GASTRONOMIC
HOTSPOTS TO RIVAL PARIS
CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA Where there’s good wine,
there’s bound to be good food and, with 200 vineyards within
striking distance of the city, Cape Town has plenty of both.
ALEPPO, SYRIA The oldest continually inhabited city in
the world, Aleppo is also a gourmet capital, famed for its
barbecued meatballs with black cherries, and pastries
flavored with orange blossom.
MONTREAL, CANADA A little slice of France in North
America, Montreal is devoted to good eating and has a
fabulous selection of eateries, from high-end restaurants
to homely bistros. The city’s markets are pretty vibrant, too.
MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA With its fresh food markets,
upscale restaurants, trendy cafés, and cool bars, Melbourne
is hailed by many as the country’s culinary hub.
6/2/09 17:07:09
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257
Lyonnaise Cuisine ART AND CULTURE
vs Parisian Cuisine
Paris has an enviable gastronomic reputation, but Lyon has a great deal of culinary credibility, too.
In fact, where food is concerned, France’s second city has the edge
rich apple tarts – simple home-style cooking at its
NEED TO KNOW
rustic best, washed down with a glass or two of
LOCATION Lyon is in 6/*5&%
,*/(%0. -JMMF Beaujolais. This is, after all, the wine’s heartland.
the Rhône-Alpes region of
France, 290 miles (465 km) 1BSJT In fact, in Lyon the third Thursday of November
southeast of Paris 4USBTCPVSH sees a serious celebration of the arrival of
VISITORS PER
'3"/$& Beaujolais Nouveau – the new season’s wine.
YEAR 6 million 48*5;&3-"/%
DAYTIME #BZ PG -:0/ Come midnight on the Wednesday, the Place
#JTDBZ
TEMPERATURES #PSEFBVY *5"-: Bellecour is alive with music, fireworks, and people
Jan: 39°F (4°C); Apr: 57°F hanging out to taste the new vintage. It’s an event
(14°C); Jul: 72°F (22°C); .BSTFJMMF
Oct: 63°F (17°C) .FEJUFSSBOFBO that’s been dubbed “the Beaujolympics.”
41"*/
4FB In addition to its down-to-earth eating
establishments, Lyon has its stellar performers. ABOVE Panoramic view of Lyon from Fourvière Hill
The battle for gastronomic supremacy between Veteran super-chef Paul Bocuse, a proud local, has
Lyon and Paris has long been waged. Sure, Paris has his Michelin 3-star restaurant here. (He also runs a at Pupier, silky foie gras at Rolle, glossy meat at
the tower, the museums, the shops, and myriad string of brasseries, so the great man’s tastes are Maurice Trolliet, and plump andouillettes at
eateries in every neighborhood, but it’s Lyon that’s available to all pockets.) As revered as Bocuse are Bobosse. Sample the lemon verbena or strawberry
top when it comes to food, with the highest ratio of the nearby Côtes du Rhône vineyards, home to the and basil macaroons at Sève. And then, sustained
restaurants to people in the whole of France. famed Condrieu, Château Grillet, Saint Joseph, and by coussins (pillows of almond paste filled with
Unique to Lyon is the bouchon – a traditional Côteaux de l’Hermitage wines. chocolate ganache), roam the charming
bistro dishing up 100% Lyonnaise food. Think If you’re still in any doubt about the gastronomic passageways of Vieux Lyon and salute the city
herring and potatoes soused in oil, sausages in all wonders on offer in the city, take a wander around and its cuisine from one of the floating bars on
their guises (including tripe andouillettes), chunky the Halles de Lyon–Paul Bocuse market to see the banks of the Rhône.
terrines, lentils and pork, juicy chicken and buttery- creamy clouds of cheese at Maréchal, briny oysters
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Getting There and Around and French classics: pigeon cooked
FORGET PARISIAN CUISINE? TGV trains run regularly from in Dijon mustard, poached quince
Paris to Lyon. Lyon-Saint Exupéry with fresh figs and almond cream.
THE BUILD-UP The French passion for food is a huge airport is 16 miles (25 km) from Where to Stay
part of life in Paris, with bistros and regional restaurants, the town center. A shuttle bus The all-white, very modern
from modest to upscale, proudly flying the French flag. runs every 20 minutes. To get Collège Hôtel (www.college-
around Lyon city center, take
Also on offer are Japanese, North African, Caribbean, hotel.com) in Vieux Lyon used
trains, trams, or buses. Bicycle
Vietnamese, and Chinese cuisine, as well as that from to be a university dormitory and
rental is another option.
every part of the Mediterranean. And, of course, Paris is still has a fun, school theme.
Where to Eat
the headquarters of haute cuisine. When to Go
Head for the atmospheric La Try to visit in June or September;
Meunière (www.la-meuniere.fr)
THE LETDOWN You can spend a lot of money on food in July and August get very crowded.
bouchon for its Lyonnaise salad
Paris without even trying. And without a recommendation, Budget per Day for Two
buffet table, including cervelle
finding a good-value eatery can be hit and (mostly) miss. de canut (cream cheese with If you eat in bouchons and stay in
ABOVE A rare opportunity for good-quality food at
The city is a tourist mecca and prices are heavily inflated in a mid-range hotel, expect to spend
economical prices – Chartier, in Paris’s 9th arrondissement shallots and herbs), shredded
popular areas, where the food rarely corresponds to the bill. beef with lentils, and Beaujolais US$260 per day. Any splurges on
drawn straight from the cask. Michelin-starred restaurants will
GOING ANYWAY? Book ahead at famous or popular restaurants, and confirm the reservation the day before. The Michelin 2-star Nicolas Le significantly add to the expense.
Read up on where to eat before you visit. And bear in mind that many places that are hard to get into in the Bec (www.nicolaslebec.com) Website
evening are sometimes much easier to get a table at for lunch. serves an original take on regional www.lyon-france.com
US256-257_art_lyon.indd 257 6/2/09 17:07:40
6/5/09 15:38:26
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258
ART AND CULTURE
MAIN IMAGE Roman statuary in the courtyard of the Palazzo dei
Conservatori, part of the Capitoline Museums BELOW (left to right)
Piazza del Campidoglio; head of Constantine; Hall of the Horatii and Curiatii
6/2/09 17:08:16
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Capitoline Museums ART AND CULTURE
vs Vatican Museums
Light and spacious, the Capitoline Museums make an elegant setting for some of the finest art of the antique world.
Across the Tiber, meanwhile, the exhibits at the Vatican Museums seem suffocated by the great press of visitors
As befits a modern European capital, Rome has An underground passageway then takes you to
NEED TO KNOW
its share of idiosyncratic museums, from one the Galleria Lapidaria, with its collection of
LOCATION The Capitoline dedicated to mental illness to another exploring epigraphs, and the Tabularium (the former records
Museums sit atop the most .JMBO 7FOJDF
sacred of ancient Rome’s seven the history of crime. But in truth these are only office), where the remains of the Temple of Veiovis
hills – the Capitoline Hill sideshows to the city’s unimaginably vast hoard of can be seen. Stairs lead back to the light, and at
*5"-:
VISITORS PER YEAR paintings and antique sculptures, which are the end of the long corridor is the museum’s
520,000 30.& "ESJBUJD
4FB
DAYTIME /BQMFT exhibited in a hundred or more public and greatest surprise – not an exhibit, but the best
TEMPERATURES 5ZSSIFOJBO semi-public palaces. The Vatican Museums attract view of the Roman Forum. From this height, much
Jan: 50°F (10°C); Apr: 4FB the lion’s share of tourists to the city – more than of its confused archaeology falls neatly into place.
57°F (14°C); Jul: 79°F (26°C); *POJBO
4FB
Oct: 66˚F (19°C) 1BMFSNP 4 million go there each year – leaving Rome’s other Returning to Michelangelo’s piazza, you pass
galleries in relative peace. The Capitoline Museums into the courtyard of the Palazzo dei Conservatori,
may not be quite so off the beaten track as the where you’re greeted by a jumble of fragments
A magnificent flight of steps (the Cordonata) leads Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica (see p260), but the from a colossal statue of Emperor Constantine. The
you up the gently rising Capitoline Hill. At the top number of visitors is never overwhelming. tour then heads upstairs to one of the museum’s
lies Michelangelo’s Piazza del Campidoglio, flanked The main entrance to the museums is in the most helpful exhibits – the story of Rome told in a
on one side by Palazzo Nuovo and on the other cool, white marble façade of the Palazzo Nuovo, on sequence of 16th- and 17th-century frescoes in
by Palazzo dei Conservatori. Together, the two the left of the Piazza del Campidoglio. Busts of the Hall of the Horatii and Curiatii. The picture
buildings form the main body of the Capitoline philosophers and statues of river gods lead you gallery is next and, after the acres of marble you’ve
Museums, home to exceptional collections of down the Hall of the Philosophers to an octagonal just seen, your eyes feast on the vivid reds of Titian’s
classical sculpture and paintings. The architecture of room, where Venus awaits you, modestly covering Baptism and Garofalo’s Annunciation. Also on show
the square is bold, geometric, and harmonious. And her marbled nakedness. In the Hall of the Galatian, are Caravaggio’s St John the Baptist, Veronese’s Rape
with no traffic, it’s relatively quiet here. The Vatican the dying Gaul, proud yet bowed by the pain of of Europa and some fabulous portraits by Van Dyck.
Museums across the river seem aloof and inhuman defeat, evokes genuine pathos. In the Hall of The visit finishes on a high, with the famous
in scale by comparison. Doves, mosaics from Hadrian’s Villa are on show. equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius.
FORGET THE VATICAN PRACTICAL INFORMATION
MUSEUMS? Getting There and Around Where to Stay
The nearest metro stop is The Inn At The Roman Forum
THE BUILD-UP The Vatican Museums not only have the two Colosseo, a 10-minute walk (www.theinnattheromanforum.
most beautiful rooms in the world (the Sistine Chapel and the away. Dozens of buses from com) has a quiet courtyard, a roof
Room of the Segnatura), their vast corridors also contain all Rome’s main station, Termini, terrace, and its own Roman crypt.
the vanity, devotion, and sheer financial clout of the greatest stop nearby. Get off at either the And, as the name suggests, it’s
Via dei Fori Imperiali or the Via
collectors the world has ever known. The picture gallery houses right next to the forum.
del Plebiscito.
one of the best art collections in Rome. When to Go
Where to Eat Rome has a mild Mediterranean
Swanky restaurants abound, but
THE LETDOWN The Vatican Museums can feel like purgatory. climate. May is the nicest month.
the real food of Rome is la cucina
They are positively overwhelmed with visitors, and the usual The period from December to
povera – the tripe, salt cod, beans, February is the nearest the city
start to a visit here is an hour lining up in the hot Roman sun.
and artichokes of the traditional has to a low season.
ABOVE Jostling for a better view, some of the 4.3 trattorias. The Asinocotto (www.
GOING ANYWAY? Book a group tour (www.myvaticantour. million visitors to the Vatican Museums each year asinocotto.com), just over the Budget per Day for Two
com) and you’ll sail past the long lines. With a good guide, you’ll river in Trastevere, is a great Resist the shops and you could
also get a better handle on the collection in 3 hours than you example. Stuffed zucchini flowers get away with US$300.
might in days of dazed wandering on your own. and veal tongue are just two of Website
the dishes on on the menu. www.museicapitolini.org
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260 6 MORE GREAT MUSEUMS IN ROME
ART AND CULTURE
Pope Innocent X (c. 1650) by Velázquez at the Galleria Doria Pamphilj
Galleria Doria
Rape of Persephone (1621–2) by Bernini at the Galleria Borghese
Palazzo Barberini, part of the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica
Galleria Pamphilj
Borghese Galleria
Alongside the Windsors and the Gettys, the Doria Nazionale
Pamphilj family has the best private art collection
Cardinal Scipione Borghese had money, taste, and, in the world, boasting works by most of the great d’Arte Antica
most importantly, a pope for an uncle. He started names of the Renaissance. This Roman dynasty
collecting paintings and sculptures for his villa in has been marrying, inheriting, and buying its way
the (then) outskirts of Rome in 1605, and over the toward the collection since the 16th century. Split between two exquisite palazzi, the Galleria
course of a lifetime amassed a truly awe-inspiring On entering the museum, you’re immediately Nazionale d’Arte Antica has hundreds of enthralling
collection. His smartest move was hiring the transported far from the traffic on the Via del Corso. paintings and a few genuine masterpieces, yet it
young artist Bernini to work for him. His second The Poussin Room, filled with sensual landscapes, barely sees a soul from one day to the next. You
smartest was to kick off his collection by drops you into an entirely new world. And it gets might easily have a room full of Sienese Masters
confiscating a hundred wonderful canvases from better, with a ballroom the producer of a costume or a couple of Filippo Lippis to yourself. On the
Caravaggio’s teacher, the painter Cavalier d’Arpino. drama could only fantasize about, a chapel with a flip side, you might equally get Caravaggio’s
The Galleria Borghese has only 20 rooms, but family mummy and then, at the very heart of the spine-tinglingly ruthless decapitation of
there isn’t a single one that won’t make you gasp palace, the four gilded galleries that run round Holofernes – not a painting to see on your own.
in delighted recognition. You have to book a the light-filled courtyard. Velázquez’s portrait of Perhaps even more rewarding than the
2-hour slot in advance, but this makes the whole Pope Innocent X (a member of the family) is the paintings are the buildings themselves. Palazzo
experience much more civilized. On the first floor star, the light splashing on his crimson sash against Barberini had Bernini, Borromini and Maderno as
there’s sculpture, including some of Bernini’s finest the lightless depths of the damask drapery its designers. Its epic centerpiece is the swirling,
statues. When you see the fingers of the god Pluto behind. Then there’s Titian’s Salomé, a girl far too angel-filled fresco by Pietro da Cortona in the main
pressed into the impossibly soft marble flesh of virtuously beautiful to be carrying the head of St. salon. It’s as masterfully outrageous as anything the
Proserpina, you’ll understand what a sharp eye for John the Baptist on a plate. Other treasures of the notoriously over-the-top Baroque era could muster.
talent the cardinal had. On the second floor the collection include works by Raphael, Filippo Lippi, On the other side of the Tiber, Palazzo Corsini must
collection of paintings is so rich, so full of chocolate Caravaggio, Titian, and a bewitching landscape be the most shamefully ignored beauty in Rome.
and cream, that an aesthetic tummy ache may with dancing figures by Claude Lorrain. The palace, standing next to the old Botanical
force you to leave before your 2 hours are up: Titian, If you can, visit the Galleria Doria Pamphilj Gardens, has works by Rubens, Van Dyck, and
Raphael, and six (count them, six!) Caravaggios. at dusk, just as the lights come on, and marvel Giordano, all waiting patiently while the ghosts of
as the light dances between the ornate glass the Corsini family drift through the quiet corridors.
chandeliers and the gilded mirrors.
Practical Information
Address Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5; tel. +39 06 32810; Practical Information
www.galleriaborghese.it Practical Information Address Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13. Palazzo Corsini,
Getting There The Galleria Borghese is on the eastern side of the Parco Villa Address Via Corso 305; tel. +39 06 679 7323; Via della Lungara 10; tel. +39 06 4201 0066; www.galleriaborghese.it
Borghese. The Spagna metro stop, on Line A, is at the other end of the www.doriapamphilj.it/ukhome.asp Getting There Palazzo Barberini is a few steps from the Barberini metro
park, 1 mile (1.5 km) away. Getting There The nearest metro stop is Colosseo, on Line B. The Via Corso stop, on Line B, while Palazzo Corsini is in northern Trastevere, a good walk
Opening Times 8:30am–7:30pm Tue–Sun. Visits must be booked in is used by dozens of bus routes. from the San Pietro metro stop. It’s easier to take the 23, 28 or 65 bus there.
advance. You will be given a 2-hour slot. Opening Times 10am–5pm daily. Opening Times 8:30am–7:30pm Tue–Sun.
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261
ART AND CULTURE
Fourth-century mosaics at the Museo Nazionale Romano
Sarcophagus of a married couple at the Etruscan Museum
Museo Nazionale
Etruscan Museum, Romano The Decumanus Maximus road at Ostia Antica
Villa Giulia Ostia Antica
If your experience of classical art is rows of
In the middle of Rome, there’s a park with a lake, anonymous and noseless marble busts, headless Although Ostia Antica is outside Rome, you can
a zoo, several Roman ruins, countless fountains, torsos, and incomprehensible labels, the Museo ride the metro to the ruined city and be sitting in
and two of the world’s finest museums – the Nazionale Romano will make a refreshing change the theater in the time it takes to wait in line for
Galleria Borghese and, in the Villa Giulia, the and reveal the vitality of so much Classical sculpture. the Vatican Museums. Ostia Antica was Rome’s
Etruscan Museum. There’s the proud Seleucid prince, more confident port for 600 years and, after Herculaneum and
When the Romans were still scrabbling around in his bronze nakedness than the rest of us could Pompeii, it’s the best-preserved Roman town in
in the mud up on their seven hills, their neighbors ever feel fully clothed, and a disconcerting bust of Italy. You walk in on the Decumanus Maximus,
to the north, the Etruscans, were already building Julius Caesar with his toga pulled over his head. Best passing the warehouses, the baths (posh and not
aqueducts, paving roads, and decorating their of all is the famous Olympian, every sinew tensely so posh), and the pub on the way to the theater.
exquisite temples with Asian-style Medusas. Though balanced as he prepares to unleash his discus. All these sites can be readily recognized without a
their art was archaic and occasionally inscrutable, Upstairs, you’ll get a tingle of excitement degree in archaeology. Most impressive of all is the
the laughing eyes of the Apollo of Veii or the easy when the guide unlocks a double door and takes Forum of the Corporations, where 61 maritime
affection between the Bride and Groom in the you to the gallery on the top floor. Entire rooms offices are ranged around a great temple, each
2,500-year-old funerary sculpture evoke more from the Villa of Livia on the Palatine Hill have identified by its own descriptive mosaic. Farther
genuine warmth than a thousand Roman statues. been faithfully reconstructed. The mosaics and into the city are more signs of how rich and poor
There are also distinctly unsettling works, like the frescos have been so vividly realized, it’s as if the rubbed along together. There’s the meat market,
frieze depicting Tydeus gorging himself on the artist has only just finished work. the latrines, and a whole host of temples, including
brains of his rather shocked archenemy Melanippus. The collection in the Palazzo Massimo is the the 2nd-century remains of the city’s synagogue.
The very best works in this former papal villa best part of Rome’s Museo Nazionale Romano, If you can afford the time, take a cruise out to
are also the tiniest. The Etruscans were fabulous but your ticket will also get you into the nearby Ostia from the Marconi Bridge in Rome. If not, at
goldsmiths, and some of the jewelry from the Baths of Diocletian, which includes the Aula least try to hang on until dusk, when the sun
Castellani collection is amazing. There’s nothing Ottagona with its two bronze sculptures of great glances off the sea and bathes the umbrella pines
in the shops on the swank Via dei Condotti that beauty. Both museums are near Rome’s Termini and ancient buildings in a glorious warm glow.
can match this stuff. station, and would definitely top any list of good
ways to kill time before your train.
Practical Information
Practical Information Address Viale dei Romagnoli 717, Ostia Antica; tel. +39 06 5635 8099;
Address Piazzale di Villa Giulia 9; tel. +39 06 320 1951; Practical Information www.ostia-antica.org/visiting.htm
www.romaturismo.com Address Palazzo Massimo, Largo di Villa Peretti 1; tel. +39 06 328101; Getting There Take metro Line B to Piramide or EUR Magliana, then get
Getting There The Villa Giulia is at the northern end of the Parco Villa www.romaturismo.com the Ostia Lido train to Ostia Antica. You could also take a Battelli di Roma
Borghese, a pleasant 15-minute walk from the Flaminio metro stop, on Getting There The museum is 5 minutes’ walk from Rome’s principal train boat (www.battellidiroma.it) from the Marconi Bridge.
Line A. Alternatively, take the 19 or 3 tram. station, Termini. It’s also very close to the Repubblica metro stop, on Line A. Opening Times 8:30am–6pm Tue–Sat; 8:30am–noon Sun (8:30am–5pm
Opening Times 8:30am–7:30pm Tue–Sun. Opening Times 9am–7:45pm Tue–Sun. Mar and Oct; 8:30am–4pm Nov–Feb).
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262
ART AND CULTURE FORGET CANNES?
THE BUILD-UP There’s no denying that
Cannes is the world’s most important film
festival. Founded in 1946 as a small event on
France’s beautiful Côte d’Azur, it has grown
San Sebastián
to become a glamorous 10-day celebration
industry in attendance, and a solid program
of world premieres in the official selection.
vs Cannes Film Festival of film, with everybody who’s anybody in the
THE LETDOWN All-singing, all-dancing
Cannes sometimes gets all too much to bear.
Brash and cynical, the marketing and fashionista
side of the festival can torpedo its claims to
Cannes is a duty for cineastes but, at San Sebastián, Spain’s premier film festival offers art. And the pressure of numbers is such that
getting into screenings – or even just securing
the movies, the stars, and the high life – without the hype a table in a restaurant – is a major feat.
GOING ANYWAY? If you’re still set on Cannes,
and John Malkovich – and San Sebastián manages plan your visit like a military campaign. Hotel
NEED TO KNOW
a similar roster most years, regularly outpunching rooms need to be booked at least six months
LOCATION San Sebastián "UMBOUJD 0 DFBO other European festivals such as Rotterdam or in advance and, if you’re planning to see any
is in the Basque region, on competition films, you’ll need to apply for
Spain’s northern coast, #JMCBP Locarno. Even better, because things are on a more
280 miles (450 km) 4"/ human scale here, and everyone tends to stay in accreditation – the general public are not
4&#"45*¦/
northeast of the #BSDFMPOB admitted to most of the festival’s screenings.
Spanish capital, Madrid the same hotels, you’re much more likely to find
10356("- .BESJE
WHEN The festival runs yourself elbow to elbow with Penélope Cruz at the
for ten days from mid- 41"*/ bar than you ever would in Cannes.
to late September
The festival’s relaxed schedule also allows time
VISITORS PER YEAR 4FWJMMF .FEJUFSSBOFBO
4FB
Over 175,000 to explore San Sebastián (Donostia in the local
Euskara language) itself. It’s an elegant, hedonistic,
and good-looking seaside resort with a vibrant
“Oh, I don’t come here to see films.” Overheard eating and drinking scene, mostly concentrated
in a bar on Cannes’ Boulevard de la Croisette, this in the old town. The walk from the Kursaal Center
throwaway line sums up the frustrations of the (the futuristic skewed cube that is the festival hub)
world’s number one festival for the true cineaste. to the belle époque Cinema Principal, where many
Cannes is full of people who are here to buy, to sell, press screenings take place, should take 5 minutes ABOVE Crowds swarming to catch a glimpse of arrivals on
to schmooze, to party; sometimes one gets the but the gauntlet of tempting pintxos (the Basque the red carpet at the Cannes Film Festival
distinct impression that the films screening in and version of tapas) bars on the way can turn it into
out of competition are just a sideshow. an hour-long gourmet ramble.
San Sebastián, on the other hand, is very much
a movie buff’s festival. It may not have the number
of weighty world premieres offered by its French PRACTICAL INFORMATION
cousin, but it has a good eye for new directors –
Getting There and Around old town, the most affordable of
many of them Spanish or Latin American – and has
San Sebastián’s small airport, celebrity chef Martín Berasategui’s
developed strong links with Scandinavian and 10 miles (16 km) east of town, group of superb restaurants.
Asian filmmakers over the past few years. It also has is served by internal flights from
Where to Stay
great retrospectives, with recent subjects ranging Madrid and Barcelona. The The Hotel Londres (www.
from Japanese noir to director Terence Davies, to closest international and low- hlondres.com) is a beautiful belle
cost hub is Bilbao, 65 miles
films dealing with migration. époque building facing the main
(105 km) west. Central San La Concha beach. Rooms are
Crucially, there’s time to see such classics, as Sebastián is easily explored on
this is a much more laid-back festival than manic, foot, but there is also an efficient spacious, classic, and comfortable.
Daytime Temperature
sleep-deprived Cannes. It’s also more democratic: local bus network.
66°F (19°C) in September, when
in San Sebastián, with a little forward planning, you Where to Eat the festival takes place.
can buy tickets for any movie on the schedule, San Sebastián is one of Spain’s Budget per Day for Two
whereas in Cannes, only films in the parallel top gastronomic centers. Even Allow US$300 for
bar snacks, or pintxos, tend to be
Quinzaine section and Cinéma de la Plage beach accommodations, meals, and
bite-sized gourmet treats. The
screenings are accessible to the general public. town has its fair share of award- tickets for screenings.
The Spanish festival, which runs for nine days at winning restaurants but, to Websites
the end of September, is not without its glamorous sample creative Basque cuisine Film festival:
side, either. Talent attending the 2008 event without breaking the bank, head www.sansebastianfestival.com
for Bodegón Alejandro (www. Tourist information:
included Meryl Streep, Antonio Banderas, Woody
bodegonalejandro.com) in the www.sansebastianturismo.com
Allen, Javier Bardem, Ben Stiller, Robert Downey Jr.,
29/4/09 13:21:25
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263
ART AND CULTURE
MAIN IMAGE La Concha beach in San Sebastián BELOW (left to
right) Aerial view of the bay of San Sebastián; Teatro Victoria Eugenia,
one of the festival venues; Meryl Streep accepting the Donostia Award
4 MORE FILM FESTIVALS TO
RIVAL CANNES
BERLINALE Berlin is not the warmest place in February, but
this festival generates plenty of energy with an eclectic mix of
low-budget world cinema and quality commercial films.
VENICE FILM FESTIVAL Opening the fall awards season at
the beginning of September, Venice has given Cannes a run for
its money in recent years, with world premieres of Oscar
contenders such as Brokeback Mountain and The Queen.
FILM FESTIVAL LOCARNO This Swiss festival, held in August,
is perhaps the closest to San Sebastián in its mix of great setting,
small-but-interesting competition line-up, and enthusiastic local
participation. The open-air gala screenings are justly famous.
MOTOVUN FILM FESTIVAL Of Europe’s scattering of “village
film festivals,” this one, held each July in a pretty Croatian hill town,
is among the most enjoyable. Intelligent indie programming and
a loyal following of tent-dwelling young film fans has led to it
being called “a cross between Glastonbury and Sundance.”
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264
ART AND CULT URE
MAIN IMAGE Piazza della Signoria Gubbio during Festa dei Ceri
BELOW (left to right) Main square, Perugia; a fresco at Orvieto
Cathedral; a musical performance at Spoleto (see pp268–9)
14/4/09 14:43:46
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265
Umbria ART AND CULTURE
vs Tuscany
A land of atmospheric ancient towns, lingering mists, and long lunches, Umbria gazes serenely across its western
border at its Tuscan neighbor, watching as it suffocates beneath the weight of mass tourism
Flanked by Lazio, Tuscany, and the Marche, this as Perugini, Spoletani, and Assisiati. However, this
NEED TO KNOW
beautiful region has some of the finest landscapes parochialism hasn’t fostered a sense of inwardness
LOCATION Umbria is a .JMBO in Italy. But, beyond its natural charms, Umbria also as it might elsewhere in Italy, but a fervent desire
land-locked region in central
7FOJDF
Italy, flanked by Lazio, has a hundred towns and villages blessed with to outdo one’s neighbors. This is manifested in
Tuscany, and the Marche (FOPB outstanding works of art. Places like Trevi, Narni, ragús (meat-based sauces) that change flavor from
*5"-:
AREA 3,265 square miles and Montefalco, which anywhere else in Europe one valley to the next and towns outbidding each
(8,490 sq km) 5VTDBOZ "ESJBUJD
-F .BSDIF 4FB would be mobbed like rock stars, are left largely other to put on world-class music festivals. More
DAYTIME 1FSVHJB
TEMPERATURES 6.#3*" 4QPMFUP alone on their lofty hilltop perches. dramatically, the evidence of this proud, republican
Jan: 46°F (8°C); Apr: 52°F Then there are the region’s heavy hitters, spirit lies before you in some of the finest secular
(14°C); Jul: 77°F (25°C); 3PNF
5ZSSIFOJBO
Oct: 60°F (16°C) 4FB -B[JP prominent on the tourist itinerary. The frescoes in buildings in the world. The town halls of Perugia,
the Basilica di San Francesco d’Assisi paint vivid Gubbio, Todi, and Città di Castello are all signs in
stories. The cathedral at Orvieto crowns a tufa crag, pink and gray stone of a spirit of independence
Umbria is well used to tourists. However, unlike its reflecting shafts of golden light across the valley. nurtured since the Dark Ages.
next-door neighbor Tuscany, it has not yet grown Pinturicchio and Perugino seduce with the silver- Mention Umbria to an Italian and they’ll say
weary of them. While Tuscany’s San Gimignano blue haze of their landscapes, framing Madonnas approvingly “You’ll eat well there,” a grudging mark
orders urgent measures to stop the hordes as beautiful as any in Florence, while Roman and of respect from this most parochial of nations. And
clogging its precious medieval streets, Umbria’s Etruscan remains watch proudly over the plains. you can be assured of a feast – from Castellucio’s
Gubbio enacts its centuries-old rhythms barely But what really distinguishes this region from tiny sweet lentils and hams from Norcia that melt
conscious of the tourists strolling wide-eyed in others in Italy is its spirit of “campanilismo,” the on your tongue, to wild boar hung for days, and
wonder through its equally ancient thoroughfares. idea of bearing allegiance to the church bells simmered to tenderness in a rich Sagrantino wine.
If Italy really was a booted leg, then Umbria of your mother town. The people of this region
would be somewhere around the calf muscle. scarcely regard themselves as Umbrians at all, but
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Getting There and Around must be one of the most
FORGET TUSCANY? Umbria has a small international captivating places to stay in Italy.
airport at Perugia, but you are When to Go
THE BUILD-UP Without Tuscany, there would have been no more likely to fly into Rome. The best times to visit are spring
Renaissance, fewer Merchant-Ivory movie adaptations, and fewer There are fast trains from Rome and fall. Although spring can be
places for your maiden aunt to go on holiday. Some of man’s to most of the major tourist wet, the flowers in the hills are
greatest artistic achievements are here, from Brunelleschi’s destinations. Italy’s principal truly spectacular. Fall is warm
Dome to Michelangelo’s David and it has magical landscapes motorway, the A1, runs along and dry, and the dinner table
and stunning towns that look down from their rounded hilltops. Umbria’s western border. groans beneath the newly
Where to Eat arrived game, truffles, and
THE LETDOWN Unfortunately, someone forgot to keep quiet The more informal the better. mushrooms. Assisi is particularly
about Tuscany. Camera-wielding crowds ruthlessly tick off The Locanda del Cantiniere in magical in December during
Gubbio (tel. +39 075 927 5999)
lists of endangered statues, leaning towers, famous frescoes, is typical of a thousand excellent Christmas.
and historic squares. Then there are the costs, which have Umbrian trattorie. Budget per Day for Two
sky-rocketed in the last 20 years. For US$265, you can sleep
Where to Stay
ABOVE Snap-happy visitors surrounding the majestic With monks’ cells, a secluded comfortably, drink well, and eat
GOING ANYWAY? Thankfully, parts of Tuscany still remain sculpture of David in Santa valley, and your very own like a king in Umbria, which is
unknown, from the mysterious lands of the Etruscans in the 12th-century frescoes, the around 40 percent cheaper for
southwest to the majestic marbled mountains above Lucca. But if it is San Gimignano or Pisa you want former monastery of San Pietro a tourist than Tuscany.
to visit, then go in winter, when you can enjoy them without hordes of tourists spoiling your view. in Valle, near Terni (www. Website
sanpietroinvalle.com/eng) www.english.regioneumbria.eu
US264-265_ART_Umbria.indd 265 29/4/09 13:23:51
30/6/09 11:20:02
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266 6 MORE REGIONS WITH CULTURE TO RIVAL TUSCANY
ART AND CULTURE
Detail of the Franconia fountain outside the former residence of
prince bishops, Würzburg
Lower The pueblo blanco, or white village, of Cómpeta, overlooking the
Andalucian landscape
Franconia, Andalucía, Spain Manicured cypress trees lining the banks of the lake in the charming
city of Lugano
Bavaria, Germany NEED TO KNOW Ticino,
LOCATION The region Switzerland
NEED TO KNOW of Andalucía extends across 10356("- .BESJE
the south of Spain. Its
LOCATION Lower Franconia %PSUNVOE capital is Seville 41"*/
is in southern Germany, just NEED TO KNOW
AREA
east of Frankfurt. Würzburg is (&3."/: 2,875 sq miles (&3."/:
the region’s main city LOCATION The canton of
'SBOLGVSU $;&$) (7,470 sq km) 4FWJMMF Ticino is in southern Switzerland, '3"/$&
AREA 3,300 sq miles -08&3 8àS[CVSH 3&16#-*$ DAYTIME 4BOMVDBS .ÈMBHB hemmed in by Italy on three sides. ;VSJDI
(8,560 sq km) '3"/$0/*" /VSFNCFSH $ÈEJ[ .FEJUFSSBOFBO
TEMPERATURES "/%"-6$±" 4FB The Ticino river joins Lake Maggiore "6453*"
DAYTIME Jan: 50°F (10°C); Apr: 63°F (17°C); before heading into Italy #FSO
'3"/$& $IVS
TEMPERATURES 4UVUUHBSU Jul: 82°F (28°C); Oct: 68°F (20°C) AREA 1,085 sq miles 48*5;&3-"/%
Jan: 34°F (1°C); Apr: 52°F
(11°C); Jul: 68°F (20°C); (2,820 sq km) (FOFWB -PDBSOP 5*$*/0
Oct: 50°F (10°C) 48*5;&3-"/% "6453*" DAYTIME ;FSNBUU -VHBOP
Just west of the Costa del Sol, the wind picks up, TEMPERATURES
Jan: 36°F (2°C); Apr: 54°F (12°C); *5"-: .JMBO
blowing away the flotsam of mass tourism. The Jul: 72°F (22°C); Oct: 54°F (12°C)
The air really does get sweeter in Franconia. The tangled streets of the great sherry towns of Jerez
hills soften their hard outlines and acres of pines and Sanlucar de Barrameda are home to white
give way to the deciduous forests of the horses and the mixed blood of a centuries-old Over the mountains north of the fog-bound Po
Odenwald. The candyfloss Baroque architecture Anglo-Spanish aristocracy. Head inland, and the river, there lies a land of kinder temperatures and
that festoons Germany is replaced by a far more pueblos blancos rise above the stunning Andaluz bluer skies. You’ll find some of Europe’s most
refined style in Franconia, most evident in the landscape. A hundred castles of the Spanish elegant towns in this Swiss canton, with
Residenz, a palace in Würzburg. Here, the greatest Reconquista in turn rise above them, cruel Renaissance and Baroque buildings clustered
of all Baroque architects, Balthasar Neumann, reminders of a 700-year-long clash of civilizations. around Italianate piazzas or lining the shores
built a staircase that climbs to the Tiepolo Then there’s the city of Cádiz. Spectacularly of lakes Maggiore and Lugano. The belle époque
frescoes above. Inside Würzburg’s Cathedral are situated on a slim spur of sand, it self-consciously grandeur of Locarno rivals laid-back Lugano, a
two of sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider’s finest stretches away from Spain’s reactionary past. At city that seduces the fussiest with its ancient
works. West of the city, the Veitshöchheim Palace its heart, a golden-domed cathedral shines over churches, alleys, and Villa Favorita, home to one
boasts Europe’s most gorgeous Rococo garden. the elegant streets and squares of the old town. of the world’s greatest private art collections.
Practical Information Practical Information Practical Information
Getting There and Around Most of Lower Franconia can be reached by Getting There and Around Fly to Cádiz, Seville or Málaga. There are also Getting There and Around Ticino is accessible from main cities such as
public transportation from Frankfurt or Nuremberg airports. Numerous high-speed trains to Cádiz from Madrid. The local Al Andaluz express cuts Zurich, Geneva, and Milan. Transportation options in Ticino include post-
river boats also cruise up the Main from the Rhine and the Danube. through the region in vintage coaches. buses, cable cars, funiculars, trains, and ferries. Avoid taking cars as parking
When to Go August is busy throughout Franconia, especially on the When to Go This is one of the sunniest regions in Europe. But summer in is a problem.
famous Romantische Straße highway. Visit in spring or fall. the interior makes traveling hard, so visit in early spring or late fall. When to Go April and October are ideal times to visit.
Website www.bavaria.us Website www.andalucia.com/province/cadiz Website www.ticino.ch
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267
ART AND CULTURE
The famous trulli of Alberobello, curious structures with rounded
conical roofs found in Puglia
The 686-step grand staircase of Lamego’s Nossa Senhora dos
Remédios decorated with azulejo tiles Puglia, Italy
The Romanesque nave of the Basilica of Vézelay with sunlight spilling
through the tall windows The Douro NEED TO KNOW
Burgundy, Valley, Portugal LOCATION Puglia stretches "ESJBUJD
along the Adriatic coast to the tip
France of Italy. Its main cities are Bari, 3PNF 4FB
Brindisi, and Lecce
NEED TO KNOW
AREA 7,470 sq miles *5"-: #BSJ #SJOEJTJ
(19,420 sq km) 16(-*"
LOCATION The valley runs across -FDDF
NEED TO KNOW northern Portugal to Porto. The main %0630 DAYTIME (BMMJQPMJ
7"--&: 5ZSSIFOJBO
towns are Amarante, Peso da Régua, 1PSUP TEMPERATURES 4FB
LOCATION Burgundy is a -JMMF CFMHJVN and Porto 1FTP EB 3ÏHVB Jan: 48°F (9°C); Apr: 57°F *POJBO
region in eastern France. Its "UMBOUJD $PJNCSB (14°C); Jul: 79°F (26°C); 4FB
AREA 1,600 sq miles 1BMFSNP
main towns are Dijon, Châlons- (4,160 sq km) 0DFBO Oct: 64°F (18°C)
sur-Saone, and Auxerre 1BSJT 4USBTCPVSH 10356("- 41"*/
AREA 12,240 sq miles "VYFSSF HFSNBOZ DAYTIME -JTCPO
TEMPERATURES
(31,700 sq km) %JKPO
#63(6/%: TXJU[FSMBOE Jan: 48°F (9°C); Apr: 57°F Along the back of Italy’s famous “heel,” which juts
DAYTIME $IÉMPOT (14°C); Jul: 68°F (20°C);
TEMPERATURES '3"/$& TVS 4BPOF Oct: 59°F (15°C) 'BSP out into the Adriatic Sea, stretches a line of Puglia’s
Jan: 36°F (2°C); remarkable Romanesque churches, gazing out to
Apr: 52°F (11°C); -ZPO *5"-:
Jul: 70°F (21°C); Oct: 52°F (11°C) sea from Trani, Molfetta, and Bari. Farther south is
As you leave the harsh lands of the Upper Douro the village of Alberobello with its astonishing
Valley, the curves of the river valley soften, and trulli – conical structures made using a prehistoric
The vineyards of Burgundy, nestled against the the sunburnt Port grapes give way to white Vinho building technique, and Brindisi, an ancient
strong, straight ridge of the Côte d’Or, give the Verdes and the cap-doffing majesty of the red Roman port joined to the imperial capital by the
region its fame. But far from the traditional touring Barca Velha. Just out of sight of the river valley, 350-mile (580-km) Appia Antica. But don’t stop
routes lie the most beguiling landscapes in France. a cluster of Visigothic churches and ghost-like here, or you will miss Europe’s most spectacular
In the Middle Ages, the Court of Dijon was Cistercian monasteries still populate the hills. city, Lecce (see p323). Inside its medieval walls, a
Europe’s wealthiest, and artists such as Roger van The Douro bears ever westwards, passing near hundred overwrought facades shine against
der Weyden traveled from the Low Countries to Lamego with its monumental Baroque staircase, azure skies. Farther south, and beyond the barren
paint for the dukes. But Burgundy’s real soul lies then Amarante, dominated by the monastery Salentine peninsula flanked by a bleached-white
in its monasteries – Cluny, Montigny, and Citeaux, and church of São Gonçalo, before finally flowing coast, are the town of Otranto, with its famous
and, towering above them, the Basilica of Vézelay, into the Atlantic beneath the city of Porto. mosaics, and the golden fortress of Gallipoli.
the last great survivor of western monasticism.
Practical Information Practical Information
Practical Information Getting There and Around Porto, at the mouth of the Douro Valley, has a Getting There and Around Puglia has two international airports, at Bari
Getting There and Around Burgundy lies on the main autoroute and large international airport. Trains also run regularly from Lisbon and Madrid. and Brindisi. Brindisi is also the main passenger ferry point for arrivals from
railway routes between Paris and Lyon. Dijon has a small international Along the river, there are boat cruises and the Linha do Douro train. the eastern Mediterranean.
airport, but private transportation is required in much of the countryside. When to Go Winters can be wet, though the rainfall reduces dramatically When to Go Winters are mild in Puglia, but the vibrant colors of spring
When to Go In spite of the long, cold winters, Burgundy is a pleasure to away from the Atlantic coast. Summer becomes increasingly brutal the make this the best time to visit. Summers are long, hot, and crowded,
visit right through the year, summer’s warmth lasting until October. further east you travel. Spring is the best time to visit. and by fall the color has been all but drained from the land.
Website www.burgundy-tourism.com Website www.visitportugal.com Website www.italyheaven.co.uk/puglia
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268
ART AND CULTURE Festival di FORGET THE PROMS?
THE BUILD-UP The BBC Proms is a unique
event. No other music festival can compete with
the sheer scale of performances put on over the
eight weeks. World-class orchestras and soloists,
newly commissioned works, and pieces too
Spoleto
expensive to stage elsewhere are all performed in
one of the world’s most striking concert venues.
THE LETDOWN There is something unsatisfying
about the Proms. The BBC’s lighting rigs can
vs the Proms push the temperatures close to unbearable. The
hall’s acoustics flatter only the largest-scale works.
Then there are the Promenaders: rarely young
and stylish, their greatest distinction may be their
At the Festival di Spoleto, the last note of each performance hangs in the air; status as the most civilized audience in the world.
stepping out from the Proms, it fades fast back into the tuneless roar of London’s traffic
GOING ANYWAY? Don’t even think about
driving. There are two underground stations
within 10 minutes’ walk, and several buses stop
composers to share ideas in order to re-invigorate
NEED TO KNOW just outside. Seats for the most popular concerts
old classics and to find ways to perform innovative may sell out, but you can wait on the day for
LOCATION Spoleto is a large new works. Menotti scoured Italy for a suitable venue. standing tickets. If you plan to watch a lot of
medieval town in Umbria, 7FOJDF
JMBO performances, think about a £190 season ticket.
central Italy, 80 miles (130 km) He came upon Spoleto, a slumbering storehouse
north of Rome of Roman remains and medieval buildings which
*5"-:
WHEN Late June/early July was already blessed with several theaters and a
410-&50
NUMBER OF VISITORS "ESJBUJD supportive mayor.
20,000 spectators attend 3PNF 4FB
95 different performances /BQMFT The festival, dedicated to theater, music, and
DAYTIME 5ZSSIFOJBO dance, grew to be one of Europe’s finest. In its
4FB
TEMPERATURE
*POJBO early years, unknown artists including Rudolph
82°F (28°C) in July 1BMFSNP 4FB
Nureyev and Margot Fonteyn danced here, and
Jacqueline du Pré and Jessye Norman gave
For 16 glorious days each summer, Spoleto debut performances.
transforms itself for a performing arts extravanganza: Each summer, Spoleto’s cafés fill with the
the town’s Roman theater shakes off any dust and sounds of rehearsals and the cathedral square is
fills with the echoes of its orchestra; the medieval transformed into a stage You may rub shoulders
duomo (cathedral) becomes a backdrop for the again with your neighbor from last night’s Row B ABOVE A high-spirited audience waving flags at the Royal
finest operas; and the Teatro Nuovo polishes its during the evening passeggiata or see a young Albert Hall on the Last Night of the Proms
exquisite 19th-century boxes. ballerina bounding up Via Apollinare for her rehearsal
In contrast, at London’s Royal Albert Hall, BBC at the Roman theater. It sure beats lining up on
technicians fiddle and fuss in front of the audience, Kensington Gore for tickets to the Proms.
intent on relaying the music to far-flung television
viewers. At the end of each performance, the PRACTICAL INFORMATION
flushed crowds file out into a city that barely
pauses to take note of the extraordinary music Getting There and Around town. In Spoleto itself, the Hotel
pouring from its heart. Spoleto’s nearest airport is in Residenza d’Epoca Palazzo
In creating the Festival di Spoleto in 1957, the Perugia, 30 miles (48 km) to the Dragoni (www.palazzodragoni.
Italian composer Gian Carlo Menotti wanted to northwest, but most international it) is right in the middle of town.
airlines fly into Rome – a 1½- Its dining room has breathtaking
bring together the best young performers of the day,
hour train ride away. There is an views over the medieval city.
and to encourage directors, choreographers, and excellent network of buses in the
When to Go
Valle di Spoleto, and small shuttle The Festival di Spoleto is a
buses operate inside the medieval
town (www.satubus.com). 16-day event, starting on the
last weekend of June (or first
Where to Eat week of July) and finishing in
There is a big emphasis on simple, mid-July. It’s well worth keeping
local ingredients in Umbrian an eye on the official website for
cuisine and even the most basic dates and venues.
dishes can vary from village to
village. One of Spoleto’s best Budget per Day for Two
restaurants is the Tempio del Gusto With inflated hotel prices and
(www.iltempiodelgusto.com). watching two shows a day, you
will need at least US$430.
Where to Stay
You will need to book very early, Website
ABOVE Cecilia Bartoli during her recital with pianist Jean Yves Thibaudet or consider staying outside of www.festivaldispoleto.com
at Teatro Caio Melisso, Festival di Spoleto
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Off the Tourist Trail is a guide to the world's unspoiled sights and experiences. It takes a hundred clichéd tourist destinations - everything from over-visited national parks to overrated museums - and reveal 1,000 fresh and fascinating alternative options. Written by a team of travel experts, and with a foreword by Bill Bryson, this book brings vibrant cities, enchanting sights, breathtaking natural wonders and unforgettable experiences to life with informative narrative and stunning photography.
Choose your destination by theme - Ancient and Historical Sights, Festivals and Parties, Great Journeys, Architectural Marvels, Natural Wonders, Beaches, Sports and Activities, Art and Culture, and Cities - or simply flick through this sumptuous guide and be inspired. Practical advice on getting there and around, where to stay, where to eat and when to go, as well as useful 'Need to Know' facts, ensure that you get the most out of your time away.
Less crowded, generally less expensive, and often more spectacular and rewarding, these lesser-known wonders of the world encourage readers to ditch the famous but well-worn choices, reminding them what real travel is all about - escaping the everyday and embracing the new.
Vacations will never be the same again.
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