(DK Eyewitness) Top 10 Travel Guide - Israel & Petra

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL


TOP


ISRAEL




& PETRA





VANESSA BETTS














































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Top 10 Israel and The Top 10
Petra Highlights of Everything

Welcome to Israel and Petra .........5 Moments in History .....................38
Exploring Israel and Petra ............6 Museums ......................................40
Israel and Petra Highlights .........10 Churches and Monasteries .........42
Church of the Holy Sepulchre .....12 Ancient Synagogues ....................44
Temple Mount ..............................14 Beaches ........................................46
Western Wall ................................16 Children’s Attractions ..................48
Israel Museum .............................18 Outdoor Activities .........................50
Haifa ..............................................24 Israeli Writers...............................52
Bethlehem ....................................26 Performing Arts ...........................54
Tel Aviv-Jaffa Beachfront .............28 Regional Dishes ...........................56
Masada .........................................30 Restaurants ..................................58
Sea of Galilee ...............................32 Israel and Petra for Free .............60
The Siq, Petra ...............................34 Religious Holidays
and Festivals .............................62





















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CONTENTS



















Israel and Petra Streetsmart
Area by Area

Jerusalem ....................................66 Getting To and Around
Around Jerusalem .......................74 Israel and Petra ......................108
Tel Aviv-Jaffa ................................80 Practical Information .................110
Galilee and the North ..................90 Places to Stay .............................114
Dead Sea and the Negev .............96
Petra ...........................................102 General Index .............................118
Acknowledgments .....................124
Phrase Book ...............................126






The information in this DK Eyewitness
Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that
this book is as up-to-date as possible at the
time of going to press. Some details,
however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information, are
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy liable to change. The publishers cannot
of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, accept responsibility for any consequences
in the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. arising from the use of this book, nor for any
Throughout this book, floors are referred to in material on third-party websites, and cannot
accordance with American usage; i.e., the “first guarantee that any website address in this
floor” is at ground level. book will be a suitable source of travel
information. We value the views and
Front cover and spine Jerusalem, Yerushalayim, suggestions of our readers very highly.
Dome of the Rock, The Temple Mount Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness
Back cover A beautiful day at the Monastery Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand,
(Ad-Deir), Petra London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email
Title page The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, [email protected]
one of Jerusalem’s holiest sites




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Top 10 Israel & Petra ❮❮ 5

Welcome to
Israel and Petra





Holy sites and beachside hedonism, ancient ruins and
Bauhaus buildings, desert oases and Galilean springs –
Israel and Petra combine the age-old and the high-tech,
the earthy and the spiritual. Add excellent cuisine and wines
and you have a feast for the senses, mind, and spirit. With
Eyewitness Top 10 Israel & Petra, it is yours to explore.

In Jerusalem, the three great Abrahamic faiths connect with their
ancient sources. Jews the world over pray toward Jerusalem, and
when here flock to the Western Wall, a remnant of the Holy Temple
that once stood on the Temple Mount. For many Christians, no site
is more sacred than the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where it
is believed that Jesus was crucified, buried, and resurrected. In
nearby Bethlehem, the Church of the Nativity marks what many
believe is Jesus’ birthplace. Muslims venerate Al-Aqsa Mosque
and the Dome of the Rock, both on Jerusalem’s Temple Mount
(Al-Haram ash-Sharif). The city’s Israel Museum displays artifacts
that bring ancient times to life.
Dynamic Tel Aviv-Jaffa, an economic powerhouse, has fine-sand
Mediterranean beaches, as well as excellent museums, shopping, and
nightlife. Up the coast in Haifa, a model of Jewish-Arab coexistence,
the incredible Baha’i Gardens adorn the slopes of Mount Carmel.
Whether you’re coming for a weekend or a week, our Top 10 guide
brings together the best of everything that Israel and Petra have
to offer, from the mineral-rich waters of the Dead Sea and the
ancient synagogues of the Sea of Galilee to the incredible ruined
Nabataean city of Petra. The guide has useful tips throughout, from
seeking out what’s free to avoiding the crowds, plus eight easy-to-
follow itineraries, designed to tie together a clutch of sights in a
short space of time. Add inspiring photography and detailed maps,
and you’ve got the essential pocket-sized travel companion. Enjoy
the book, and enjoy Israel and Petra.


Clockwise from top: Dome of the Rock, Design Museum Holon, Jaffa Port, the Monastery at
Petra, ancient church mosaic in Petra, shops at Jerusalem’s Cardo Maximus, Yad Vashem






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6 ❯❯ Top 10 Israel & Petra

Exploring Israel and Petra

Whether you’re interested in biblical archeology, hiking through
awe-inspiring landscapes, or relaxing on the beach, you can easily
spend months exploring all that Israel and Petra – despite their
small size – have to offer. But you can also pack a great deal into a
week-long trip, starting with two days in the holy city of Jerusalem.

Jerusalem
Muslim Temple LEBANON
Quarter Mount
Christian Quarter
Korazim
Citadel Mount Tabgha
Yad Vashem of Olives Magdala Kursi
Jewish Quarter
0 km 1 Israel City of David Sea of
Museum Tiberias Galilee
0 miles 1
Two Days in Jerusalem
Tel Aviv-Jaffa
Day 1
MORNING See Jerusalem
Start at the Citadel (see p67) at Jaffa map, above Qumran
Gate, then head to the incense-filled National Park
Bethlehem
Church of the Holy Sepulchre & Beit Sahour Ein Gedi
(see pp12–13) in the Old City’s Nature Reserve
Christian Quarter. Walk through Masada
the Muslim Quarter’s souk
(market) and the Jewish Quarter ISRAEL Ein Bokek
to the Western Wall (see pp16–
17). Enter the Temple Mount (see
pp14–15) via the Moors’ Gate.
Non-Muslims can only admire
the elaborately tiled, gold-domed JORDAN
Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa
Mosque from the outside. Petra
AFTERNOON
Visit the excavations at the City
of David (see p70), where you
can splash through Hezekiah’s The Treasury,
Tunnel (see p48). Then cross Petra
Kidron Valley to the Mount of
Olives (see p68), with its landmark Yitzhak Rabin
churches and stunning views. Key border crossing 0 kilometers 50
Two-day itinerary 0 miles 50
Day 2 Seven-day itinerary
MORNING
At the Israel Museum (see pp18–21), AFTERNOON
walk through the Archeology Wing, Absorb the testimonies and artifacts
with its treasures from ancient Israel at the museum at Yad Vashem (see
and neighboring civilizations, then p40). A Children’s Memorial recalls
see the Dead Sea Scrolls. Stroll the 1.5 million Jewish children who
through the Billy Rose Art Garden died during the Holocaust; a crypt
on your way to see paintings by near the Hall of Remembrance holds
Rembrandt and Monet. the ashes of death-camp victims.





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Exploring Israel and Petra ❮❮ 7


Seven Days in Israel
and Petra

Days 1 and 2
Follow the two-day itinerary
for Jerusalem.

Day 3
Now head to Manger Square in
LEBANON Bethlehem (see pp26–7); bow The holy Dome of the Rock shrine in
through its impossibly low front door Jerusalem is open only to Muslims.
Korazim to enter the Church of the Nativity.
Tabgha
Magdala Visit the adjacent St Catherine’s Day 6
Kursi Church and the Milk Grotto before From the ancient city of Jaffa (see
Sea of
Tiberias Galilee checking out the Old Market, which p82), with its many art galleries,
sells fruit, vegetables, and snacks. stroll north along the Tel Aviv-Jaffa
Then head to Beit Sahour, site of the Beachfront (see pp28–9), pausing for
Shepherd’s Fields and two churches. a drink at a beach café. Have lunch
at Tel Aviv Port (see p81). Then cross
Tel Aviv-Jaffa Day 4 the Yarkon River to visit the Eretz
By car or on a tour, head to the Dead Israel Museum (see p40) and Beit
See Jerusalem Sea (see pp96–101). Visit Qumran HaTfutsot (Museum of the Jewish
map, above
Qumran National Park (see p98), where the People) (see p41) on the campus of
National Park Dead Sea Scrolls were found, and Tel Aviv university. Don’t forget to
Bethlehem
& Beit Sahour Ein Gedi Ein Gedi Nature Reserve (see p97) check out the Bauhaus architecture
Nature Reserve for a hike in a lush desert oasis. Visit (see p84) before enjoying a gourmet
Masada the Masada Museum before climbing dinner in central Tel Aviv.
ISRAEL Ein Bokek or taking the cable car to the top of Day 7
Masada (see pp30–31). Stop at Ein
Bokek (see p46) for a dip in the sea. Head to Tiberias (see p92) and drive
north along the shore of the Sea of
Day 5 Galilee (see pp32–3) to Magdala (see
Enter Jordan at the Yitzhak Rabin/ p33), hometown of Mary Magdalene,
JORDAN Wadi Araba border crossing. From and then admire a wooden fishing
Wadi Musa, walk or ride through the boat from the time of Jesus at
Siq (see pp34–5) until the ancient city Kibbutz Ginosar (see p32). Continue
Petra
of Petra (see pp102–5) is spectacu- around the shoreline, stopping at the
larly revealed. Admire the Treasury Mount of Beatitudes and Tabgha
and other grand Nabataean edifices. (see p32), and the synagogues of
Head back to Israel and drive part of Capernaum and Korazim (see p33).
the way to Tel Aviv-Jaffa (see pp80–87). End the day at Kursi (see p33).
Yitzhak Rabin
border crossing
0 kilometers 50
0 miles 50






Jaffa, on the shores of the Mediterranean, is one of the world’s oldest ports.






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Top 10 Israel and

Petra Highlights












The golden Dome of the Rock shrine
on Jerusalem’s Temple Mount













































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Israel and Petra Haifa 24
Highlights 10
Bethlehem 26
Church of the
Holy Sepulchre 12 Tel Aviv-Jaffa Beachfront 28
Temple Mount 14 Masada 30
Western Wall 16 Sea of Galilee 32
Israel Museum 18 The Siq, Petra 34






















































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10 ❯❯ Top 10 Israel and Petra Highlights

Israel and 0 k 0 kilometersilometers 50 50 50 50
0 miles
0 miles
Banias
Petra Highlights Nahar LEB LEBANONANON Banias
Nahariyyaiyya
Akko Akko Saf Safeded Katzr Katzrinin
Sea of
This tiny strip of land, holy to the world’s Haifa Tiber Tiberiasias Sea of
Haifa
Galilee
Galilee
three great monotheistic religions, has a Nazar
Nazaretheth
Afula
wealth of history, monuments, ruins, and Church of Caesar Afula
Caesareaea
places of worship to discover. The region 1 Netan Khader Beit She
Beit She’an’an
Khaderaa
the Holy
Netanyaya
also offers extraordinary natural beauty, Sepulchre Nablus
Nablus
from the forested slopes of the Galilee, to The holiest church for Tel A Tel Aviv-Jaffaviv-Jaffa WEST
WEST
BANK
Mediterranean white-sand beaches, and Catholics and Orthodox Beachfr BANK
Beachfrontont
the desert vistas of the Negev and Petra. Christians is built on Ashdod Ramallah
Ramallah
Jerusalem
Jerusalem
Ashdod
see inset map
Temple Mount the site where, tradi- Ashkelon see inset map
tion says, Jesus was
Bethlehem
Bethlehem
Ashkelon
Site of Judaism’s First and crucified, buried, Gaza
Gaza
Dead
Second temples, Jerusalem’s and resurrected Hebr Hebronon Ein Gedi Dead Sea
Ein Gedi Sea
Temple Mount (Al-Haram (see pp12–13). GA GAZAZA
Masada
ash-Sharif) has been topped Be’er Shev Arad Arad Masada
Be’er Shevaa
by the spectacular Dome Ein B Ein Bokekokek
Mamshit
of the Rock since the 7th ISR Mamshit
ISR AELAEL
century (see pp14–15). Nitzana
Nitzana
Sde Bokeroker
Sde B
EGY
EGYPTPT
Mitzpe R
Mitzpe Ramonamon
JORD
JORDANAN
Be’er M
Be’er Menukhaenukha
The Siq,,
The Siq
Petr Petraa
Western Wall Yot Yotvatavata
Judaism’s holiest place of
prayer, the Western Wall is part Eila Eilatt
Aqaba
of the Temple Mount’s retaining Aqaba
wall, built by Herod the Great in
the 1st century BC (see pp16–17).
Israel Museum
The Israel Museum houses
a vast collection of art, archeology,
and Jewish artifacts, plus the iconic Haifa
Shrine of the Book displaying the A bastion
Dead Sea Scrolls (see pp18–21). of Jewish-Arab
coexistence, this
port city enjoys
spectacular sea
views from Mount
Carmel, especially
from the exquisite
Baha’i Gardens
(see pp24–5)
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Israel and Petra Highlights ❮❮ 11

0 k 0 kilometersilometers 50 50
0 miles 50 50 Bethlehem
0 miles
Banias A major pilgrimage
Banias
LEB LEBANONANON
center since the 4th
Nahariyyaiyya
Nahar century AD, Jesus’
Saf Safeded Katzr Katzrinin
Akko Akko birthplace – centered on
Sea of
Sea of
Haifa
Haifa Tiber Tiberiasias Galilee the imposing Church of
Galilee
Nazar the Nativity – even today
Nazaretheth
Afula Afula retains the small-town
Caesar
Caesareaea
Beit She feel of centuries past
Beit She’an’an
Khaderaa
Khader
Netan (see pp26–7).
Netanyaya
Nablus
Nablus
WEST Jerusalem Tel Aviv-
WEST
Tel Aviv-Jaffaviv-Jaffa
Tel A BANK Old City SULTAN SULEIMAN
BANK
Beachfr Jaffa
Beachfrontont
Ramallah
Ramallah VIA DOLOROSA Beachfront
Jerusalem
Ashdod Jerusalem OLD The dynamic city of Tel
Ashdod
see inset map CITY
see inset map
Bethlehem
Ashkelon Bethlehem CHAIN ST Aviv-Jaffa has miles
Ashkelon
2.5 miles DAVID ST
Gaza Hebr Hebronon Dead (4 km) HURVA of glorious seafront,
Gaza
Dead
Ein Gedi Sea
GA GAZAZA Ein Gedi Sea SQUARE 0 meters 500 where you can swim,
dine, or visit Old Jaffa’s
Masada
Arad Arad Masada 0 yards 500
Be’er Shev Ein B Ein Bokekokek galleries (see pp28–9).
Be’er Shevaa
Mamshit
Mamshit
ISR
ISR AELAEL
Nitzana
Nitzana
Sde Bokeroker
Sde B
EGYPTPT
EGY
Mitzpe Ramonamon
Mitzpe R
JORDANAN
JORD
Be’er M
Be’er Menukhaenukha
The Siq,,
The Siq
Petr Petraa
Masada
Perched atop a
plateau, this fortress is
Yot Yotvatavata
where, in the 1st century AD,
around 1,000 Jewish rebels
Eila Eilatt chose suicide over surrender to
Aqaba
Aqaba
Roman rule (see pp30–31).
Sea of Galilee
Jesus spent most of his ministry around
the shores of Israel’s largest freshwater lake,
now peppered with ancient synagogues and
Christian pilgrimage sites (see pp32–3).
The Siq,
Petra
Known as the Siq, the
narrow gorge that
leads visitors to Petra
offers a spectacular
and dramatic intro-
duction to the “rose-
red city half as old as
time” (see pp34–5).
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12 ❯❯ Top 10 Israel and Petra Highlights

Church of the
Holy Sepulchre


Venerated as the site of the crucifixion and resurrection of Jesus, this
is, for many, the holiest venue in Christendom. The first church was
built here for Emperor Constantine in AD 326. Destroyed in AD 614 by
the Persians and by the Fatimid Sultan Hakim in 1009, it was rebuilt
by the Crusaders between 1114 and 1170. Having survived fire and
earthquake, it is now administered by six Christian denominations.
Ethiopian Monastery
1
Cells on the roof of the Chapel of St. Helena
have been occupied by the Ethiopians since the 17th
century. A door leads down to the Ethiopian chapel,
through a Coptic Chapel, and down to the Parvis.











Parvis
NEED TO KNOW 2
This courtyard is
MAP P4 • The Christian lined with tiny chapels
Quarter, Old City • (02) belonging to various
626 7000 • Light Rail to denominations (above).
City Hall, or Egged bus The imposing façade of
60 to Jaffa Gate the church is Crusader,
Open summer: 5am– with marble pillars and
9pm (till 8pm in Oct); fine stonework.
winter: 4am–7pm daily Chapel
of Adam
• There is only one 3
entrance into the Church The lower section of the
of the Holy Sepulchre, Rock of Golgotha can be
via the main courtyard. seen here. The fissure
Wheelchair users will not is believed to have been
be able to enter Christ’s caused by an earthquake
Tomb, Golgotha, or the after the crucifixion.
side chapels, but can
safely negotiate the Chapel of 4
main area of the church. St. Helena
• There are several This Armenian chapel
restaurants and cafés at (right) dates back to
the Muristan (see p70), Crusader times. The
only a minute’s walk walls of the steps down
from the main entrance. are marked with crosses
carved by early pilgrims.




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Church of the Holy Sepulchre ❮❮ 13

Christ’s Tomb
7 At the heart of the THE HOLY FIRE
church, a marble shrine At Easter, the Greek
known as the Edicule Orthodox celebrate
encloses the place where Holy Saturday, when
Jesus’ body is believed to the Miracle of the Holy
have been laid after his Fire symbolizes the
crucifixion (left). In 2016, resurrection of Christ.
a conservation team The Patriarch leads the
lifted the covering lime- ceremony, which sees
stone slab for the first an unlit candle burst into
time in almost 500 years. flames inside Christ’s
Tomb. This miraculous
candle is then used to
light the candles of
worshippers. Holy Fire
falls on April 7 in 2018
and April 27 in 2019.
Syrian Chapel
9
Accessed through
the rear wall of the
Rotunda, this dilapidated
chapel contains Jewish
rock-cut tombs dating
from 100 BC–AD 100.
The candlelit tombs give
an impression of how
Christ’s burial place
might have looked.









Catholikon
Golgotha
5 8
Dome
Well-worn steps
lead to the Rock of Decorated with an image
Golgotha, which com- of Christ, the Catholikon
memorates the site Dome covers the central
of the crucifixion with nave of the Crusader
Stone of
glorious altars and church. The omphalos 0
glinting mosaics. It is (literally “navel”), a stone Unction
possible to touch the basin beneath the dome, This stone marks the
rock itself, situated reflects the medieval spot where Christ’s
beneath the Greek belief that this was the body was anointed and
Orthodox altar (above). center of the world. wrapped before burial.
The 12th-century stone
The Rotunda
6 was destroyed in the
fire of 1808. A smooth
The main dome, decorated with a 12-pointed
star and pierced by an oculus, rises above the limestone slab installed
Rotunda. The colonnade was rebuilt after 1808, but in 1810 marks its original
two pillars still remain from the orig inal basilica. location (above).

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14 ❯❯ Top 10 Israel and Petra Highlights

Temple Mount

The focal point of Jerusalem for over 3,000 years, the Temple
Mount was the site of Solomon’s First Temple and its replacement,
the Second Temple. Rebuilt in the 1st century BC by Herod the
Great, the complex (from where Jesus is said to have expelled the
merchants and moneychangers) was destroyed by the Romans in
AD 70. The Mount remained derelict until the arrival of Islam in the
7th century, when the golden Dome of the Rock was
built and the Mount became known to Muslims as
Al-Haram ash-Sharif (the Noble Sanctuary).

Temple Mount



3
0
9
4





6 7 51 8 2
Al-Kas Fountain
1 NEED TO KNOW
The largest of the ablution fountains still
operational on the Mount, the 14th-century Al-Kas MAP Q4 • Entrance
is carved from a single block of stone. via Moors’ Gate, next to
the Western Wall Plaza
• (02) 622 6250 • Egged
buses 1 and 3
Open summer: 7:30–
11am & 1:30–2:30pm
Sun–Thu; winter: 7:30–
10am & 12:30–1.30pm
Sun–Thu
• Non-Muslims must
enter through the Moors’
Gate but they can exit
via any open gate. Non-
Golden Gate
Solomon’s
2 3 Muslims cannot enter
Stables
the Dome of the Rock
Jewish tradition
Part of the underground states that the Messiah or Al-Aqsa Mosque.
vaulting system (above) will enter Jerusalem • Jewish religious law
built by Herod to support through this Herodian prohibits Jews from
the Second Temple, portal. Walled up in the visiting, while Israeli
this structure became 7th century, the gate secular law forbids
a mosque in 1996. It can has remained closed Jews from praying here.
hold 10,000 worshippers. ever since.

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Temple Mount ❮❮ 15

Ashrafiyya
Dome of
4 7 INSIDE THE DOME
the Rock
Madrasa
Built in AD 688–91 by One of several Islamic OF THE ROCK
Caliph Abd al-Malik, colleges on the platform, The interior of this shrine
this shrine (below) is the Ashrafiyya was built (closed to non-Muslims)
one of the world’s great in 1482 by Qaitbey and is lavishly decorated with
architectural glories. A is a masterpiece of inscriptions and floral
synthesis of Byzantine Islamic design. The motifs. At the center of
and Classical styles, the doorway incorporates the octagon stands the
octagonal structure was bands of colored stone, Holy Rock, from where
built with mathematical stalactite carvings, Mohammad is believed
to have begun his Night
precision to enshrine and interlocking Journey, leaving his
the Holy Rock within. “joggled” stones. footprint in the corner.
For Jews, the Rock is
associated both with
Abraham’s sacrifice of
Isaac and as the site
of the Holy of Holies.
Dome of
9
the Chain
Supported by 17 columns
(below), the structure’s
purpose remains a mys-
tery. The 13th-century
tiling on the interior is as
exquisite as that inside
the Dome of the Rock.

Al-Aqsa
Minbar of
5 8
Mosque
Burhan al-Din
This delicate minbar The early 8th century,
(pulpit) by the south El-Aqsa was razed by
qanatir is exquisitely earthquakes and occu-
carved, and includes pied by the Crusaders. It
some delicate Crusader contains a mihrab (prayer
sculpture. It is used for niche) from Saladin’s
outdoor services during time and marble columns
the summer. donated by Mussolini.
Sabil of Qaitbey
6
The carved stone dome of this 15th-century
public fountain (below), finely decorated inside and
out, is unique in the Holy Land. It was built by the
Mameluke Sultan Qaitbey in the shape of a tomb.
Qanatir
0
A qanatir (row of
free-standing arches)
tops each of the eight
flights of steps up to the
Dome of the Rock. Some
of the column capitals of
the arcades were reused
from Roman buildings.




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16 ❯❯ Top 10 Israel and Petra Highlights

Western Wall

Judaism’s holiest place of prayer, the Western Wall or HaKotel is
a huge retaining structure built by Herod the Great to hold up the
Temple Mount. It is about 1,600 ft (488 m) long, but only a small
section is used for prayers; most of the rest is hidden or is part
of an archeological park. From 1948 to 1967,
Jews were not allowed to pray at the Wall,
but since its dramatic capture by Israeli
paratroopers during the Six-Day War, it has
once again become a place of pilgrimage.
Men’s Section
2
The Wall’s prayer
area is divided by sex,
according to Orthodox
Jewish tradition, with
about two-thirds of the
197-ft (60-m) stretch
reserved for men. Only
men are permitted to
read from the Torah.
Herodian-Era
Prayer Notes
1 3
Stones
For centuries Jews
have written prayers on Limestone blocks laid
slips of paper and tucked on the orders of Herod –
them in the crevices the largest weighing 520
between the Wall’s giant tonnes – can be identified
stones (above). Twice by their indented borders.
a year, the notes are Seven layers of stones
collected and buried can be seen; another
on the Mount of Olives. 17 layers lie hidden
Chain of
beneath the plaza. 5
Generations
Davidson
THE OLD CITY 4 Center
The Wall is the eastern Center Displayed in seven
boundary of the Jewish Part of the Jerusalem rooms, glass sculptures
Quarter, which was Archeological Park, this (below) illustrate the
largely destroyed by the museum holds artifacts transmis sion of Jewish
Jordanians in the 1948 shedding light on the tradition and the deep
war and rebuilt in 1967 city’s history. There’s also spiritual bond of Jews to
after Israel’s capture of a virtual reconstruction Jerusalem from biblical
East Jerusalem. North of of the Second Temple. times to the present.
it is the Muslim Quarter,
the largest and most
populous, stretching
to Damascus Gate and
including most of the
Via Dolorosa. West of
this lies the Christian
Quarter, with dozens
of holy places. The small
Armenian Quarter is in
the southwest corner,
stretching to Jaffa Gate.

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Western Wall ❮❮ 17

Robinson’s Arch
Egalitarian
6 8
Prayer Space
Protruding from the southern end of the
Western Wall, this 1st-century BC Herodian arch A section of the Western
once held aloft a staircase leading up to the Temple Wall below Robinson’s
Mount. Archeologists believe it was destroyed during Arch has been set aside
the Roman siege of AD 70, either by attacking for non-sex-segregated
Roman legionnaires or besieged Jewish Zealots. prayers by Jews from the
Reform and Conservative
movements, to which
some Israelis and most
Diaspora Jews belong.
Many ultra-Orthodox
authorities oppose this.
Western Wall
9
Plaza
Jewish worshippers,
some wearing the dress
of the shtetl, gather at
the Western Wall (left)
to pray individually and
in groups, to celebrate
Shabbat, Jewish holidays
and life-cycle events, as
well as for swearing-in
cere monies of the IDF
(Israeli Defense Forces).






Southern Wall
7
In the late Second Temple period (including
Jesus’ lifetime), the broad, sloping stairway next to
the Southern Wall brought worshippers through
arched entrances to the Temple Mount esplanade.
NEED TO KNOW Western Wall Tunnels:
MAP P4 tours 7am–late night Sun–
Thu, 7am–noon/1pm Fri;
Western Wall Plaza: Jewish adm; reserve ahead
Western Wall
Quarter, Old City; open Chain of Generations 0
24 hrs; be prepared for Center: open 9:40am– Tunnels
airport-style security 11pm Sun–Thu, 7am– Running for over 1,315 ft
Western Wall Heritage noon/1pm Fri; adm (400 m) along a section
Foundation: english. of Western Wall hidden
thekotel.org • 13-year-old Jewish boys by medieval buildings,
Southern Wall, Jerusalem often hold bar mitzvahs the tunnels (above) –
and fascinating Second
Archeological Park, here on Monday, Thursday, Temple-period arches,
Davidson Center: open and Saturday mornings. gates, passageways,
8am–5pm Sun–Thu, • The City of David
8am–2pm Fri; adm; excavations are situated and ritual baths – link
www.archpark.org.il just outside Dung Gate. the Western Wall Plaza
with the Via Dolorosa.




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18 ❯❯ Top 10 Israel and Petra Highlights

Israel Museum

One of the world’s leading museums of art and archaeology, the
Israel Museum has a breathtaking collection representing human
material culture from prehistory to 21st-century Israeli artworks.
Highlights include the Dead Sea Scrolls, artifacts found at Masada,
ancient Hebrew inscriptions, and centuries-old synagogues from
Southern India, Northern Italy, Suriname, and Germany, plus
superb works of European art, including a canvas by Rembrandt.
There are also libraries, landscaped gardens, and places to eat.
The Shrine
1
of the Book
Housed in the heart of
the shrine are the oldest
biblical manuscripts in
the world: the Dead Sea
Scrolls. A full-scale
facsimile of the Great
Isaiah Scroll – the only
completely intact scroll
found – forms a dramatic
centerpiece (below).







Second Temple Model
3
This meticulous scale model (above) covers
almost an acre (4,000 sq m) and gives a good sense
of Jerusalem’s topography and architecture on the
eve of the Great Jewish Revolt against the Romans
(AD 66–70), a generation after Jesus’ crucifixion.
Archaeology
Fine Arts Wing
4 5
Wing
The collections
here include works by Starting with the
Cézanne, Degas, anthropoid sarcophagi
Monet, Pissarro, at the entrance (left),
Ruth Youth
2 and Renoir, this chronological
Wing
journey through the
as well as
Dedicated to interactive Modigliani, Holy Land never
art activities, the Ruth Pollock, fails to impress.
Youth Wing features Rothko, and There are fine
galleries, art and craft Schiele. It also mosaic floors from
studios, a library of has excellent Beit She’an and
illustrated children’s exhibits of Nablus, as well as
books, and a recycling art from Asia, priceless treasures
room. Parents are Africa, Oceania, from neighboring
encouraged to join in. and pre- cultures, including
The wing is most active Columbian Egypt, Greece, and
during school vacations. America. the Islamic world.
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Israel Museum ❮❮ 19


3 1 Temporary
7 DESIGN OF THE
Exhibition
8 Galleries SHRINE OF THE BOOK
These central galleries Inspired by the shape
2 can house up to three of the lids of the jars in
5 exhibitions at a time. which the scrolls were
Past highlights have found, the Shrine of the
7 Book is a landmark in
6 included exhibitions
9 of Picasso’s work, architectural design. The
white dome contrasts
0 Yemenite silverwork, with a black basalt wall,
Israel and the art of Venice’s referencing the battle
Museum 4 Jewish Ghetto. between the Sons of
Darkness and the Sons
of Light, as described in
the War Scroll. Jets of
water constantly spray
the dome’s exterior,
symbolizing the ritual
purity of the desert
community that wrote
the Dead Sea Scrolls
nearly 2,000 years ago.
Israeli Art
9
Exhibits here
present the works of
leading artists who have
been active in Israel
since the beginning of
the 20th century,
exploring their different
generations and varying
Gift Shops
Billy Rose
6 8 artistic styles.
Art Garden
There are two
Designed by artist Isamu stores selling high­
Noguchi, this blends quality gifts inspired by
Western sculpture with the museum’s collec­
elements from Japanese tions, including Judaica,
Zen gardens, with a jewelry, replicas, prints,
Jerusalem backdrop. and accessories.
NEED TO KNOW • Photography is not
MAP J5 • 11 Ruppin permitted in the galleries.
Blvd, West Jerusalem • There are two routes
• (02) 670 8811 • Egged in and out of the main
buses 7, 9, 14, & 35; bus galleries: one through
100 is a park-and-ride the Route of Passage and Jewish Art
service from Shapirim another via the open-air 0
and Life Wing
Interchange on Highway 1 Carter Promenade. Presenting the culture
to the Knesset across the • Mansfeld, a dairy café, and art of the Jewish
street • www.imjnet.org.il
has three branches with diaspora from the Middle
Open 10am–5pm Sat– some outdoor seating. Ages to the present day,
Mon, Wed, & Thu; 4–9pm At the main entrance, this wing (above) show­
Tue; 10am–2pm Fri Modern serves non- cases both sacred and
Adm vegetarian fare. secular elements of
Jewish civilization.



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20 ❯❯ Top 10 Israel and Petra Highlights

Exhibits in the Israel Museum


Herodian Royal
1 Key to Floorplan 9 6
Bathhouse
(1st century BC) Upper Level
Lower Level
This reconstructed hot room
from Herod’s palace at Herodion is
decorated with colorful frescos, tiles, 1
and mosaic floors. Raised on pillars
and with earthenware piping built
into the walls to provide heating, it 0
was the latest in Roman technology.
4 5 7 2
Kapoor’s Turning the
3
World Upside Down,
Jerusalem (2010)
Anish Kapoor’s stainless-steel
sculpture crowns the museum’s
highest point. Standing 16 ft (5 m)
high, its polished mirror-like surfaces
capture and reverse reflections of the
sky and surrounding landscape.
Byzantine Synagogue
4
and Church
Early Christian and Jewish houses of
prayer dating from the 4th to the 7th
centuries AD are contrasted in this
installation. The synagogue bima
(chancel) is from Susiya while the
church bima comprises marble and
stone elements from 17 churches.
Jeanne Hébuterne, Seated Leopard Head Hip Mask
Modigliani’s Jeanne
(17th century)
2 5
Hébuterne, Seated
From Benin in Africa, this pendant
(1918) was worn by high-ranking officials
Amedeo Clemente Modigliani’s on their left hip, under a scabbard
portrait of his pregnant mistress is or sword. The mask is cast in brass
a classic example of his idealized and punched with copper studs.
style – using flowing lines
Rembrandt’s
to define her flat oval face, 6
long neck, and almond St. Peter in
eyes. When Modigliani Prison (1631)
died suddenly at the This painting of St. Peter
age of 36, a despairing demonstrates Rembrandt’s
Jeanne killed herself genius for expressing spiritual
during her ninth month qualities through the contrast
of pregnancy. Above the of light and shadow. The
portrait is displayed saint sits in a radiant pool of
a Congolese mask, light, his humanity apparent in
highlighting the influence his lined face and fisherman’s
of African art on the Leopard Head hands, while large parts of the
Italian artist. Hip Mask canvas remain in darkness.


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Israel Museum ❮❮ 21


JEWISH ART AND LIFE WING

This wing comprises treasures associated TOP 10
with Jewish rituals around birth, marriage, HIGHLIGHTS
and death, and ends with a stunning array 1 20th-century wedding
of clothing and jewelry from throughout dress from Cochin, India
the Jewish Diaspora. The attention given 2 19th-century bridal
to aesthetics and presentation, in addition jewelry from Izmir, Turkey
to each object’s historical value, makes an 3 19th-century
immediate impact. Particularly memorable Hungarian funeral
are the two walls displaying over 100 carriage
Hanukkah lamps in lit glass cases, and the 4 15th-century
gallery of rare illuminated manuscripts that Maimonides’ illuminated
includes Maimonides’ Mishne Torah from the Mishne Torah
15th century. Visitors can follow a Synagogue 5 19th-century sukkah
Route through the reconstructed interiors from Fishach, Germany
of synagogues brought from Germany, Italy, 6 Shabbat spice boxes
India, and Suriname, each one reflecting the 7 18th-century Suriname
culture of its host country while maintaining synagogue
the key features of a Jewish house of worship.
8 120 Hanukkah lamps
9 Esther Scrolls from
Purim
10 18th- to 19th-
century hooded cape
from Morocco



The Vittorio Veneto
synagogue (1700)
from Northern Italy has
been reconstructed
and is part of the
museum’s Synagogue
Route exhibit.
The Rothschild Room
Rubin’s The Sea of
7 9
Galilee (mid-1920s)
(18th century)
This Parisian salon, donated by Reuven Rubin used a naive style and
Baron Edmond de Rothschild, is clear colors inspired by Palestine’s
decorated with tapestries, paintings, bright landscapes to capture scenes
chandeliers, and gilt paneling. of daily life. Here he contrasts
traditional and modern life, as
Turrell’s Space That
8 agriculture meets nature and the
Sees (1992)
Arab and Zionist worlds connect.
In the Billy Rose Art Garden, follow
Mihrab from Isfahan
the gravel path down to view James 0
Turrell’s Modernist sculpture hewn (17th century)
from the bedrock. Looking through In a mosque, the mihrab indicates
the white frame to a square of blue the direction of Mecca and thus
sky above feels like being inside an prayer. This specimen is adorned
abstract painting. After dark, the with glazed mosaics – cut from
stars provide a different perspective. blue tiles – and Quranic verses.
Following pages Worshippers praying at Jerusalem’s Western Wall

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24 ❯❯ Top 10 Israel and Petra Highlights

Haifa

Cascading down the slopes of Mount Carmel between Haifa Bay
and the Mediterranean, cosmopolitan Haifa is one of the world’s
loveliest port cities. The Baha’i Gardens offer stunning panoramas
of the German Colony’s 19th-century houses, Hadar’s Bauhaus
buildings, and the narrow lanes of the Arab neighborhood of Wadi
Nisnas. Sprinkled throughout are excellent museums, while at
the top of the hill, pine-shaded parks and
upscale neighborhoods stretch along a
boulevard lined with cafés and restaurants.
Tikotin Museum of Japanese Art
1
This museum puts on first-rate exhibitions of
Japanese art, both traditional (including paintings,
prints, ceramics, swords, and masks) and contem-
porary. Founded in 1959, it has won prestigious
awards from the Japanese government.
Hecht
Shrine of
2 3
the Bab
Museum
One of the Hidden away on
founders of the the Haifa University
Baha’i faith, the campus, the Hecht
Bab was executed Museum (left) has
in Iran in 1850 and a superb archeology
reburied in Haifa collection, art by
in 1909. His ornate Manet, Pissaro, Van
tomb, in the lower Gogh, and more,
section of the Baha’i plus a 400 BC
Gardens, is topped Mediterranean
by a golden dome. shipwreck. Haifa 6 4 0
8 5
Beit HaGefen
4 HAHAGANA AVE
Set up in 1963 to promote Arab-Jewish
coexistence, this Arab-Jewish Cultural Center ALLENBY JAFFA
ROAD
center organizes city walking tours, art exhibits STELLA MARIS RD
grappling with intercultural dialogue, and the annual TCHERNIK H O VSKI ST
Jewish-Muslim-Christian Festival of Festivals. ALLE NBY
2
HATSLYONU T
7
HANASSI
1
9
3 4 miles
(6 km)
German
6
Colony
Established in 1868
Clandestine Immigration and
5 by German Christians
Naval Museum
known as Templers, the
Exhibits cover the dramatic period of 1934–48, when German Colony has gone
the Zionist Movement made repeated attempts to from being a prosperous
bring Jews fleeing persecution in Europe to Palestine village to Haifa’s premier
in defiance of the British blockade (above). dining district.
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Haifa ❮❮ 25

Stella Maris
8 THE BAHA’I
Carmelite
Monastery Founded in Iran in 1844,
Founded 900 years ago the Baha’i faith believes
on Mount Carmel, this in the oneness of God
mountaintop monastery and the oneness of all
(left) has been run by the religions, the harmony
Carmelite order since between science and
the 1830s. The church religion, and equality
is sumptuously painted. between women and
men. Accused of heresy
by Islamic authorities, its
founder Baha’ullah was
exiled and later jailed
in Akko for the last
24 years of his life. His
tomb (see p61) is the
Baha’i faith’s holiest site.
Gan HaEm
9
and Zoo
Atop Mount Carmel, Gan
HaEm park offers shade
and a kid’s play ground
close to the Carmel
Center’s cafés and shops.
The adjacent zoo has
been popular since 1949.
Wadi Nisnas
0
Almost unchanged
since 1948, this feels
more like a village than
Baha’i Gardens
7 an urban neighborhood.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Baha’i
Over 100 sculptures and
faith’s world headquarters features 19 terraces of installations here form
fountains and flower beds, plunging down Mount part of Beit HaGefen’s
HAHAGANA AVE
Carmel and offering breathtaking views (above). Museum Without Walls.
JAFFA
ROAD
ALLENBY
NEED TO KNOW Zoo: 124 HaTishbi St; open Shrine of the Bab: 80
STELLA MARIS RD
ALLE NBY Nov–Apr: 9am–4pm Sat– HaTzionut Ave; open 9am–
MAP C4
TCHERNIK H O VSKI ST
Thu (to 1pm Fri), May–Oct: noon daily (gardens until
Haifa Tourist Board: 48 9am–6pm Sat–Thu (to 2pm 5pm); www.ganbahai.org.il
HATSLYONU T
Ben-Gurion St; (04) 853 Fri); adm; www.haifazoo. Clandestine Immigration
HANASSI
5606; www.visit-haifa.org co.il and Naval Museum: 204
Hecht Museum: 2 HaGefen Beit HaGefen: 2 HaGefen Allenby Rd; (04) 853 6249;
4 miles open 10am–4pm Sun–Thu;
(6 km) St; open 10am–4pm Sun, St; open 10am–4pm Sun–
Mon, Wed, & Thu, 10am– Thu (to 2pm Fri & Sat); adm; bring your passport
7pm Tue, 10am–1pm Fri, www.beit-hagefen.com • The underground
10am–2pm Sat; mushecht. Stella Maris Carmelite Carmelit funicular railway
haifa.ac.il Monastery: open 6:30am– links the Carmel Center
Tikotin Museum of 12:30pm and 3–6pm daily and Hadar with the
Japanese Art: 89 NaNassi Baha’i Gardens: 45 Yefe downtown port area.
Blvd; open 10am–7pm Nof St; English tour noon • Eat at HaZkenim and
Sat–Thu,10am–1pm Fri; Thu–Tue (dress modestly); Michel, the famous falafel
adm; www.tmja.org.il www.ganbahai.org.il rivals of Wadi Nisnas.
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26 ❯❯ Top 10 Israel and Petra Highlights

Bethlehem

According to the Hebrew Bible, Bethlehem was the birthplace of
the shepherd-boy David and the site of his coronation as the King
of Israel. It is, of course, most famous as the birthplace of Jesus.
In AD 326 Constantine the Great had a church built on the site, and
today the Church of the Nativity is Christendom’s oldest house of
prayer. Just 6 miles (10 km) south of Jerusalem, Bethlehem has
been under the jurisdiction of the Palestinian Authority since 1995.
Once majority Christian, it is now about 75 percent Muslim.























Banksy’s
Shepherds’ Fields
1 2
Graffiti
In the nearby village of Beit Sahour lies the site
where the “shepherds watched their flocks by night.” In 2005 and 2007, the
Catholic and Greek churches (above) mark where renowned UK street
the host of angels is believed to have appeared. artist Banksy put about
a dozen images on the
NEED TO KNOW Baituna Al-Talhami separation wall in the
West Bank. Many of
MAP F4 Museum: Star St, off Pope his iconic artworks can
Paul VI St; (02) 274 2589;
Church of the Nativity: open 8am–1pm & 2–5pm be seen in Bethlehem.
open summer: 6:30am– Mon–Wed, Fri, & Sat,
Church of the
7:30pm daily, winter: 3
5am–5pm daily, closed noon–5pm Thu; adm Nativity
Sun morning Palestinian Heritage The cave under this JER USALEM HEBRON RD MANGER
Rachel’s Tomb: Hebron Rd; Center: www.palestinian church set on Manger K ARKAFAH
Square has been revered
open daily heritagecenter.com
as the birthplace of
The Milk Grotto: open • Buses for Bethlehem Christ since AD 160 – CHILDREN MAN GE R
8am–5pm daily leave from the Arab bus a silver star marks the
St. Catherine’s Church: station located opposite spot. The church was
open summer: 6:30am– the Damascus Gate in rebuilt in 530, but many
7:30pm, winter: 5am–5pm Jerusalem’s Old City. features remain from
the original basilica.
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Bethlehem ❮❮ 27



CHRISTMAS IN
BETHLEHEM
Christmas Eve in
Manger Square is an
emotional experience,
with Roman Catholic
Midnight Mass from
St. Catherine’s Church
being broadcast around
the world. With all the
denominations present
in the Holy Land,
Christmas celebrations
St. Catherine’s
Solomon’s
4 7 stretch over a long
period. Festivities can
Pools
Church
The Franciscans built These reservoirs, 3 miles be enjoyed during the
run-up, and Orthodox
this church in 1882 on (5 km) southwest of masses last until
the site of a 5th-century Bethlehem, supplied January 18. Details are
monastery associated water to Jerusalem from available at the Christian
with St. Jerome. His Herod’s time until the Information Centre by
statue is located in the 20th century. The small Jerusalem’s Jaffa Gate.
cloisters (above). fort near the upper pool
was built by the Ottoman
Palestinian
Rachel’s Tomb Sultan Osman II in the
5 9
Heritage
The small tomb of early 17th century.
Rachel, Jacob’s wife, is Center
always busy with women Visitors can explore a
who come to pray for reconstructed Bedouin
fertility. Cut off from tent and a Palestinian
Bethlehem by the living room at this
separation wall, center. There is a gift
this is Judaism’s shop on site that sells
third holiest site. embroidery created
by local women.
Old Market
6 Manger
The atmospheric
Square
souk (market) sells 0
traditional olive-wood Dominated by the
carvings. The Baituna walls of the Church
Al-Talhami Museum of the Nativity and
here sells gifts and the 1860 Mosque
embroidery made by the of Omar, Manger
The Milk
Arab Women’s Union. 8 Square (below) is
Grotto
A Swedish-built
Bethlehem Tradition has it that this the hub of the town.
5 cave sheltered the Holy Peace Center has
9 Family (above) during visitor information.
JER USALEM HEBRON RD MANGER K ARKAFAH the Massacre of the
Innocents, and that
a drop of Mary’s milk
MAN GE R 2 miles fell here as she nursed
7 CHILDREN (3 km) Jesus. A chapel stands
at the spot today, its
1
3 miles
(5 km) 4 walls covered with
8 numerous testi monials
to the site’s power to
6 0 3 help women conceive.
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28 ❯❯ Top 10 Israel and Petra Highlights

Tel Aviv-Jaffa
Beachfront


Tel Aviv’s glorious Mediterranean seafront stretches for 8.5 miles
(14 km) from the cliffs of Herzliya to the ancient city of Jaffa. Broad
expanses of sand are complemented by parks, restaurants and
cafés, high-rise hotels, and a yacht harbor. Both locals and tourists
flock here to swim or windsurf, sunbathe or play matkot (see p50), sip
a cold beer or dine on schnitzel and fries, and, of course, see and be
seen. The entire beachfront is paralleled by a pedestrian promenade
and by part of the city’s 81-mile (130-km) bike-path network.
Yarkon
1
Estuary
The pedestrian-only
Wauchope Bridge spans
the Yarkon River right
where it flows into the
Mediterranean. Along
both banks of the river,
the walkways and bicycle
paths of grassy HaYarkon
Park stretch inland to
Beaches
playgrounds, sport faci- 2
lities, and playing fields. Each of Tel Aviv’s beaches (above) has its
own personality. Metzitzim is popular with families;
Hilton has separate beaches for gays, surfers,
THE CITY’S HISTORY and dog owners; and Frishman and Gordon, lined
Jaffa has been a key with eateries, are popular with tourists. There is
port for thousands of a gender-segregated religious beach as well.
years – archeologists
Gordon
Jaffa Port
have found fortifications 3 4
dating from the 18th According to the Swimming
century BC – but Bible, it was from Jaffa Pool
neigh boring Tel Aviv was that Jonah set sail to This popular saltwater
founded only in 1909. meet the whale. Today, Olympic-size pool is
The new “garden city” the city’s picturesque right next to the marina.
grew very rapidly: it was port (below) is home to Like the two children’s
home to 2,000 residents fishing craft and sight- pools, it is refilled every
by 1920, 34,000 by 1925,
and, due to the arrival of seeing boats, while day with water pumped
Jewish refugees fleeing on shore the old ware- from a 492-ft (150-m)
the Nazis, 150,000 by houses house galleries deep saline well.
1937. Today Tel Aviv and cultural spaces.
houses over 500,000
people, including about
46,000 (two-thirds of
them Arabs) in Jaffa.









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Tel Aviv-Jaffa Beachfront ❮❮ 29


Tel Aviv-Jaffa 6
NEED TO KNOW Nemal Tel Aviv St; shops Beachfront
closed on Sunday; www.
MAP E3 1
yarid-hamizrach.co.il
Visitor Information: 46 5
Herbert Samuel Prom; (03) Jaffa Port: www.namal HAYARKON BEN YEHUDA
516 6188; open 9:30am– yafo.co.il 4
6:30pm Sun–Thu, 9am– Gordon Swimming Pool: 9 TEL
2pm Fri; www.visit-tel- open 1:30pm–9pm Sun, 0 AVIV
aviv.com 6am–9pm Mon–Thu, 6am– 2 HERBERT SAMUEL
Jaffa Artists’ Quarter: 7pm Fri, 7am–6pm Sat 8
www.oldjaffa.co.il • Take surfing lessons at 7
Ilana Goor Museum: www. Galim Surf School (www. 3 KAUFMAN
ilanagoormuseum.org galimsurf.com). EILAT
Tel Aviv Port: entrances • City-run Tel-o-Fun rents YEFET
from HaTa’arucha St and bikes (www.tel-o-fun.co.il). JAFFA
Tel Aviv Port
Jaffa Artists’ Quarter
5 7
Destroyed by Napoleon in 1799 and rebuilt in
Founded in
1936, Tel Aviv’s old the 1800s, Jaffa’s Old City now houses the Ilana
port and seafront Goor Museum and artists’ studios and galleries
board walk are (left), many hidden
now the city’s in the alleys between
liveliest dining the port and the
and nightlife Jaffa Slope Park.
area. Cafés line
Jaffa Slope
the cargo basin 8
and ware houses Park
hold shops and Opened in 2010, this
a food market. grassy hilltop park
with its seafront
Reading
promenade provides
6 sparkling views of Tel
Power
Station Aviv and some much
Opened in 1938, needed open space for
Bauhaus
this Modernist building Jaffa’s his torically Arab 0
is used for occasional art Ajami neighborhood. Buildings
exhibitions. It overlooks You can spot some of Tel
Tel Aviv
a lovely bike path and 9 Aviv’s famous Bauhaus
a marble column com­ Marina buildings (above) along
memorating the British Yachts dock at Israel’s HaYarkon Street, a block
assault across the oldest marina, which back from the beach.
Yarkon in World War I. is also host to various One of the finest, built
sailing competitions. in 1935, is at No. 96.













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30 ❯❯ Top 10 Israel and Petra Highlights

Masada

In AD 72–3 at the mountaintop fortress of Masada, 967 Jewish
rebels chose mass suicide over submission to Rome. Besieged
by Roman legions, the rebels held out for two years before defeat
became inevitable. Although there is evidence that a stronghold
existed here in the 2nd century BC, it was Herod the Great who
fortified the complex and added two palaces. The Romans took
Masada when Herod died, but it was recaptured by the rebels
during the First Jewish Revolt in AD 66. Since its rediscovery,
Masada has become a symbol of the modern State of Israel.













The Hanging Palace
1
Herod’s residence (above) was built on three
tiers over the cliff’s northern side. The upper level
had bed rooms, and a balcony with Dead Sea views,
while the lowest terrace had the royal bath house.
The
NEED TO KNOW 2
Synagogue
MAP H5 Possibly part of the
Fortress: Off Route 90, Herodian construction,
7.5 miles (12 km) N of this synagogue faced
Ein Bokek; (08) 658 4207; Jerusalem and would
Sunrise
Egged bus 486 from have served the Jewish 3
Jerusalem; open sum­ rebels during the revolt. Masada opens at
mer: 8am–5pm Sun–Thu They built four tiers sunrise, when the views
& Sat (to 4pm Fri), win­ of benches along the from the fort ress over
ter: 8am–4pm Sun–Thu structure’s walls and the Dead Sea all the
& Sat (to 3pm Fri), Snake
Path opens 1 hour added the pillars that way to the Jordanian
before sunrise; adm; can still be seen at the mountains are partic­
www.parks.org.il site (below). ularly stunning.
Yigal Yadin Museum:
open 8am–4pm, 1 hour
later during daylight
saving; adm
Sound and Light Show:
(08) 995 9333; Mar–Oct:
9pm Tue & Thu; adm
• The Masada Visitor
Center has a restaurant.




Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
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Size 100mm x 191mm

Masada ❮❮ 31

The Bathhouse
6 THE SIEGE OF
Consisting of a
caldarium (hot room), a MASADA
tepidarium (tepid room), First-century Jewish-
and a frigidarium (cold Roman historian Flavius
room) with an immersion Josephus described
pool, the bathhouse was Masada’s tragic last
set around a large open days. After the Romans
courtyard (left). The built a siege ramp and
caldarium, with several set the inner defensive
walls alight, the rebels,
columns supporting the led by Eleazar ben Ya’ir,
raised floor, is especially chose death rather than
well preserved. surrender and slavery,
killing their wives and
children before taking
their own lives.
Yigal Yadin
9
Museum
This museum makes
an excellent first stop as
its evocative exhibits –
including Roman-era
jewelry, coins, footwear,
and lots that may have
been used in the rebels’
suicide pact – provide
context for the excava-
tions atop Masada.
Water Cisterns
0
Of the 12 immense
cisterns Herod had hewn
into the mountainside,
the southernmost is the
largest. Rain and flood
water was collected and
brought up the hill to fill
Western
Snake Path
4 7 the cisterns on top of the
and Cable Car
Palace
rock. This system made
The Snake Path to the This palace was used for life in Masada possible.
summit takes at least ceremonial occa sions
45 minutes, so during and accom modating Masada
the heat of the day guests. Some mosaic
take the cable car up floors and wall frescoes 1
(above), and walk down. are superbly preserved. 6
2 4
Roman Ramp
Sound and
5 8 5
Light Show
and Camps
On the western side is Twice weekly from March 9
the ramp made by the to October, the story of 8
Romans that enabled Masada’s last days of 7
them to eventually break resistance is told via a
Masada’s defenses. A Sound and Light Show
siege wall and the camps at the western entrance. 0
encircling the site are Access is from Arad only
still visible today. (42 miles/68 km away).
030-031_Top_10_Israel.indd 31 31/07/2017 16:17

32 ❯❯ Top 10 Israel and Petra Highlights

Sea of Galilee


Known as the Kinneret in Hebrew, Israel’s largest freshwater lake
is 13 miles (21 km) long, 8 miles (13 km) wide, and about 720 ft
(220 m) below sea level. The largest town on the lakeshore is
Tiberias, famed for its hot springs and tombs of illustrious rabbis.
Along the perimeter are a number of important Jewish and early
Christian sites associated with Jesus. In between are beaches,
protected wetlands, water parks, bike paths, and hiking trails.
Ancient
3
Galilee Boat
A 27-ft (8.2-m) wooden
fishing boat (left) that
sailed the Sea of Galilee
in the 1st century AD,
possibly in the time of
Jesus, is on display near
where it was discovered
in 1986, along with an
Hamat
Kinneret
1 2 explanatory movie.
Cemetery
Tiberias
Mount of
Socialist-Zionist pioneers National Park 4
from the late 19th and A gorgeous zodiac wheel Beatitudes
early 20th centuries, mosaic in a 4th-century Jesus’ Sermon on the
including figures such synagogue is the center- Mount may have been
as Berl Katznelson and piece of this site, which delivered on this hillside,
the poetess Rachel, are also features hot springs which has attracted
buried in this peaceful and an 18th-century Christian pilgrims since
lakeside cemetery. Turkish hammam. the 4th century. Today’s
domed chapel dates
NEED TO KNOW Church of the Primacy of from 1938. Views of
the lake, 394 ft (120 m)
MAP B5–6, C5–6 St. Peter: open 8am–5pm below, are awe-inspiring.
daily
Visitor Information:
HaBanim St, Tiberias; Magdala: open 8am–6pm
(04) 672 5666; www. daily; adm; www.magdala.
goisrael.com org
Hamat Tiberias, Korazim, Mount of Beatitudes: open
and Kursi national parks: 8–11:45am, 2–4:45pm
open 8am–4pm Sat–Thu, daily; parking fee
to 3pm Fri (1 hr later dur­ Capernaum: open 8am–
ing daylight saving), last 5pm
entry 1 hr before closing; Monastery of the Twelve 87
adm; www.parks.org.il
Apostles: open 9am–5pm
Tabgha
Ancient Galilee Boat: Yigal (to 6pm in summer) 5 90 Tabgha
Alon Centre; open 8am– The Church of Ginosar
5pm daily; adm; www. Kinneret Cemetery: Hwy the Multiplication of Sea of
bet­alon.co.il 90, 6 miles (10 km) S of the Loaves and Fishes Galilee
Tiberias 92
Church of the Multiplication (above) and the small Tiberias
of the Loaves and Fishes: • The marked Shvil Sovev Church of the Primacy of Ein Gev
open 8am–5pm Mon–Fri Kinneret trail covers 22 St. Peter mark the spots 90
(to 3pm Sat), Eucharist miles (35 km) of the lake’s where Jesus is believed Ha-On’
9am Sun 37-mile (60-km) perimeter. to have preached and Kinneret
performed miracles. 92
98
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Size 100mm x 191mm

Sea of Galilee ❮❮ 33



JESUS AT THE SEA
OF GALILEE
The gospels say that
Jesus spent most of his
three-year ministry on
the shores of the Sea
of Galilee. Capernaum
became his home, Mary
Magdalene hailed from
Magdala, many disciples
came from Bethsaida in
the northeast, and the
lake itself is where Jesus
reportedly walked on
water and fed the Five
Thousand. The Sermon
on the Mount was del-
ivered from a nearby hill.
Korazim
9
National Park
Built in Talmudic times
(3rd and 4th centuries
AD) using local volcanic
stone, Korazim is known
for its syna gogue and
its haut­relief carvings
of geometric designs,
Greek­inspired figures,
and floral motifs.
Monastery
Kursi National
6 7
of the
Park
A 5th­century Byzantine Twelve Apostles
monastery and church At the eastern edge of
mark this archeological ancient Capernaum, this
site, where tradition says serene Greek Orthodox
that Jesus freed a man complex is right on the
from demons by casting water. The chapel, with
them into a herd of pigs its rich Byzantine­style
(the Miracle of the Swine). art (above), is topped by
red domes, while pea­
Sea of Galilee 9 6 cocks parade through
the delightful gardens.
7
0 87 Magdala Capernaum
4 8 0
5 A copper coin Capernaum (Kfar
90 Tabgha minted in AD 29 was Nahum in Hebrew),
3 Ginosar found by archeologists Jesus’ home base during
Sea of in Magdala’s synagogue, his years of ministry, is
8 Galilee dating the site to Jesus’ now an archeological site
92
Tiberias time. Also here is the managed by Franciscan
Ein Gev Magdala Stone, a rect­ friars (above). Highlights
2
angular block from the include a 4th­century
90
Second Temple period cream limestone syna­
Kinneret Ha-On’ that may have been gogue and a 2nd­century
1 92 used to read the Torah. dark basalt synagogue.
98
032-033_Top_10_Israel.indd 33 19/06/2017 12:57

34 ❯❯ Top 10 Israel and Petra Highlights

The Siq, Petra


The deep, narrow gorge known as the Siq provides a supremely
dramatic entrance to Petra. All but impervious to sunlight, it twists
imperceptibly downward, until suddenly it opens onto a bright
square. On the other side stands the Treasury in all its glory. Since
ancient times, the Siq has led traders and travelers into the heart
of this Nabataean world. Modern-day explorers start in the town of
Wadi Musa, from where a road leads through Bab al-Siq (“Gateway
to the Siq”), a valley flanked by sandstone cliffs. In the Siq itself,
the walls are pocked with votive niches, a prelude to the tombs
and sculptures carved out of Petra's rock faces by the Nabataeans.
Visitor Center
NEED TO KNOW 1
As well as selling
MAP C3 • 28 Wadi entry tickets, the Visitor
Musa, Jordan • (00962) Center provides maps
321 57093 • www. and brochures and
visitpetra.jo arranges licensed tour
Open summer: 6am– guides in various lan­
6pm, winter: 6am–4pm guages. A shop at the
center sells Jordanian
• Horse carriages make handi crafts and gifts,
the 2-mile (4-km) round some made by a local
trip from the entrance women’s organization.
to the Treasury along
the Siq and can be Water
arranged in advance; 2
Channels
horses and camels are
also available for short The Nabataeans were
rides around the site. highly skilled hydraulic
engineers, and devised
• All payments are only sophisticated systems
in Jordanian dinars; for water conservation
cards are not accepted. and flood prevention.
• Several shaded drink The Siq has two water
stands are dotted channels that are fed
around the site. by springs and supply
• Many movies, including Petra with water.
Indiana Jones and the Obelisk Tomb
Last Crusade and The 3
Mummy Returns, have This tomb stands
been filmed at Petra. above the Triclinium and
displays clear Egyptian
influences in the four
massive obelisks (below)
that line its front.
Nabataean
4 MUSA
WADI
Pavements
Paving stones were laid
along the Siq, probably
in the 1st century AD. An
extensive section can be Wadi M usa
found in the gorge near
the Niche Monument.


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The Siq, Petra ❮❮ 35



THE NABATAEANS
An ancient Arabian
tribespeople, the
nomadic Nabataeans
(3rd century BC–1st
century AD) came to
control crucial desert
trade routes from Arabia
to Mesopotamia. Key to
their success was their
Djinn Blocks
5 efficient water storage.
Cisterns hidden between
Local Arab folklore says that these 26 carved
stone blocks dotted around the site (above) housed oases they controlled
allowed them to cross
djinns (spirits), but they are probably tower tombs. the arid wilderness.
View of the
6 Trade brought wealth,
and their capital, Petra,
Treasury
became a center of
As the Siq winds down cultural exchange.
to its darkest, narrowest
point, a gap in the sand-
stone gorge suddenly
unveils the rose-pink
glow of the Treasury
(left). This first view is an
awe-inspiring moment.
Nabataean
7
Graffiti
Carved into the walls
of the Siq, graffiti and
inscriptions demonstrate
the Nabataeans' literacy.
Names and greetings
in Latin, Greek, and
Aramaic reveal their
cosmopolitan society.
Niche
Entrance to
8 9
the Siq
Monument
A monumental arch once This shrine is carved
spanned the entrance to from a freestanding rock
the Siq. It collapsed in (above). The central
1896, leaving only the niche, bordered by col-
remains of the sup- umns and a frieze, holds
porting structure and two Djinn blocks, one
pilas ters carved into the with eyes and a nose.
rock face, best seen on
Bab al-Siq
the south side. 0
Triclinium
The Siq, Petra WADI On the south face of Bab
MUSA al-Siq, this tomb exhibits
the Nabataean Classical
1
style. Like many tombs
5 in Petra, it served as a
Wadi M usa
dining chamber and was
used to host feasts in
6 2 9 4 8 0 3 honor of the dead.
034-035_Top_10_Israel.indd 35 19/06/2017 12:58

The Top 10

of Everything












Yad Vashem, Israel’s Holocaust
Museum in Jerusalem













































Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Chapter Openers “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v.1)
036-037_Top_10_Israel.indd 36 19/06/2017 12:58
Date 22nd April 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Moments in History 38 Israeli Writers 52
Museums 40 Performing Arts 54
Churches and Regional Dishes 56
Monasteries 42
Restaurants 58
Ancient Synagogues 44
Israel and Petra for Free 60
Beaches 46
Religious Holidays
Children’s Attractions 48 and Festivals 62
Outdoor Activities 50



















































036-037_Top_10_Israel.indd 37 19/06/2017 12:58

38 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Moments in History



















An 1842 painting by David Roberts depicting the Dome of the Rock
c.1800 BC: Arrival of the
1 the ruins of the Temple in AD 691.
Hebrew Tribes
Jews and Christians were allowed to
Excavations in and around Jericho visit as pilgrims until the 10th century.
show human habitation in 10,000 BC.
1099: Crusaders
According to the Hebrew Bible, 5
Abraham (c.1800 BC) journeyed Capture Jerusalem
to Canaan and bought the Cave of The First Crusade, launched in 1095,
the Patriarchs in Hebron. Biblical sought to conquer the Holy Land for
events can be corroborated with the Christendom. After the capture of
archeological record from around Jerusalem in 1099, many Jewish and
King David’s time (c.1000 BC). Muslim residents were massacred.
The Muslim general Saladin (Salah
586 BC: Babylonian Exile
2 al-Din) retook Jerusalem in 1187;
The Babylonians conquered
Christian rule in the Holy Land ended
the Kingdom of Judea from 597 BC. with the fall of Akko (Acre) in 1291.
The First Temple, built by Solomon,
was destroyed, the Ark of the
Covenant lost forever, and many
Jews exiled to Babylonia.
AD 70: Destruction of
3
the Second Temple
Cyrus the Great of Persia allowed the
Jews to return to Jerusalem, where
they built the Second Temple in the 6th
century BC. Herod the Great began a
reconstruction of the Temple in 22 BC,
but it was destroyed by the Romans
during a Jewish revolt (AD 66–70).
638: Arrival of Islam
4
Six years after Mohammad’s
death, Muslim armies defeated the
Byzantines to conquer Jerusalem.
The Dome of the Rock was built on Painting of Crusaders in Jerusalem


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Moments in History ❮❮ 39

1516: Ottoman
6 TOP 10 BIBLICAL AND
Rule Begins
Ottoman Turkish rule lasted for HISTORICAL FIGURES
almost exactly 400 years.
1917: Balfour Declaration
7
The British government
declared its support for “the estab-
lishment in Palestine of a national
home for the Jewish people.”
Ottoman rule ended when British
forces captured Palestine in 1917–18.
1948: Declaration
8 Palestinian leader Yasser Arafat
of the State of Israel
Following the 1947 decision of the 1 Moses (c.1250 BC)
Judaism’s most important prophet
UN’s General Assembly to partition led the Exodus from Egypt and
Palestine into two states, one Arab, received the Ten Commandments
the other Jewish, violence engulfed at Mount Sinai.
the country. Ben-Gurion’s provisional 2 King David (c.1040–970 BC)
Jewish government declared inde- After capturing Jerusalem, David made
pendence, and British forces with drew. it the Israelite capital of a large empire.
About 700,000 Palestinian Arabs fled 3 Herod the Great (c.73 BC– AD 4)
or were forced from their homes. Herod was appointed King of Judea
by the Romans; his great construction
works are still dotted across the land.
4 Jesus (c.2 BC– AD 30)
Christians believe Jesus Christ was
the Son of God, and that he died
on the cross and was resurrected.
5 Rabbi Akiva (AD 40–137)
One of Judaism’s greatest scholars,
Rabbi Akiva was killed by the Romans
for his part in the Bar Kochba Revolt.
6 Baldwin I (r.1100–18)
Dome of the Rock after the Six-Day War Crowning himself “King of Jerusalem”
in the Church of the Nativity on
1967: Six-Day War
9 Christmas Day, French King Baldwin
From 1949 to 1967, Jerusalem
was merciless to his enemies.
was divided along the Green Line 7 Saladin (c.1137–93)
between Israel and Jordan. The Six- Muslim general Salah-al Din drove
Day War saw the Israelis launch a the Crusaders from the Holy Land
preemptive strike and capture the and is noted for his honor in battle.
Golan, the Sinai, the Gaza Strip, the 8 David Ben-Gurion (1886–1973)
West Bank, and East Jerusalem. Leader of Socialist Zionism, Ben-Gurion
was Israel’s first prime minister.
1994: Oslo Peace Process
0 9 Yitzhak Rabin (1922–95)
The 1993 Oslo Accords gave
the Palestinian Authority (PA) control Israeli Prime Minister Rabin was
assassinated by a Jewish right-wing
of West Bank and Gaza towns. In extremist a year after winning the
1994 Jordan and Israel signed a Nobel Peace Prize.
historic peace treaty. Since then, 10 Yasser Arafat (1929–2004)
Rabin’s assassination, the rise of Leader of the PLO, Arafat fought for
Hamas, suicide bombings, and the years to liberate Palestine, but was a
construction of Israeli settle ments key player in later peace negotiations.
have stalled the peace process.




038-039_Top_10_Israel.indd 39 19/06/2017 12:58

40 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Museums


this museum uses multimedia to
present 4,000 years of Jerusalem’s
history, from the time of Canaan
to the modern State of Israel.
Eretz Israel Museum,
3
Tel Aviv-Jaffa
MAP X1 • 2 Haim Levanon, Ramat
Aviv • Open 10am–4pm Mon–Wed,
to 8pm Thu, 2pm Fri, & 4pm Sat
• Adm • www.eretzmuseum.org.il
The pavilions of Eretz Israel are
built around Tel Qasile, an excavated
mound revealing 12 eras of human
A gallery at Yad Vashem occupation. Also on view is a
col lection of rare glass ware, some
Yad Vashem, Jerusalem
1 beautiful Judaica, and mosaic floors
MAP F4 • Har Hazikaron, near
from Beit Guvrin-Maresha National
Mount Herzl • Open 9am–5pm Sun– Park (see p75).
Wed, to 8pm Thu & 2pm Fri • www.
Design Museum Holon
yadvashem.org 4
Israel’s moving memorial to the six MAP E3 • 8 Pinhas Eilon St,
million Jews killed in the Holocaust Holon • Open 10am–6pm Tue, Thu,
focuses on the victims’ personal Sat, to 4pm Mon & Wed, & 2pm Fri
stories. The Children’s Memorial is a • Adm • www.dmh.org.il
haunting reminder of the 1.5 million Hosting several international design
Jewish children who perished, while exhibitions each year, this museum,
the Garden of the Righteous Among designed by Ron Arad, is the pin-
the Nations honors non-Jews who nacle of Holon’s urban-regene ration
saved Jews in Nazi-occupied lands. program. Five iconic rust-colored
steel ribbons encircle the building.
2 interaction with design students,
Tower of David Museum, There are two galleries, a lab for
Jerusalem
MAP N4 • Jaffa Gate, Old City • Open plus a café and shop. The museum
9am–4pm Sat–Thu, to 2pm Fri • Adm is closed between exhibitions, so
• www.tod.org.il check the website before visiting.
Housed in the Jerusalem Citadel,
parts of which were built by Herod, Design Museum Holon


















Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Two-column, 8.5pt grid “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v.1.9)
040-041_Top_10_Israel.indd 40 19/06/2017 12:58
Date 24th June 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Museums ❮❮ 41


Tel Aviv-Jaffa Jerusalem 0 km 1
Jaffa 0 miles 1
Central West
Mediterranean NAM IR NAMIR KANFEI N E S HARIM ST Station
Sea QIRYAT YITSHAK R ABIN HaDavidka
MOSHE
NACHLA’OT
SDEROT HE R Z L
BEN YEHUDA IBN GABIROL ABA HILLEL Square GIVAT BEN TSVI J AFFA ROAD OLD
Denya
CITY
REHAVIA
KEREN
Mount SHMU'EL B A I T S D ERO MENACHEM BEGIN RAM HA YESOD
ALLENBY
0 km 1 Herzl TALBIYA
4 miles BAYIT WEGAN
A LIYAT HA N O'AR
0 miles 1 (6 km)
Bible Lands Museum,
5 of Israel, this museum provides
Jerusalem
a compelling and relatively
MAP J5 • 25 Avraham Granot neutral account of the events
St • Open 9:30am–5:30pm culminating in the death of
Sun–Tue & Thu, to 9:30pm Yitzhak Rabin. The candlelit
Wed, 10am–2pm Fri–Sat room at the end is dedicated
• Adm • www.blmj.org to Rabin’s memory.
The mutual influence of the
Tel Aviv Museum
civilizations of the ancient 9
Near East is the focus at of Art
this superb museum, with MAP X2 • 27 Shaul
displays of the material Bible Lands Hamelekh • Open 10am–
culture of the region. Museum 6pm Mon, Wed, Sat, to 9pm
Tue, Thu, 2pm Fri • Adm
L. A. Mayer Museum of
6 • www.tamuseum.org.il
Islamic Art, Jerusalem
Israel’s finest collection of art spans
MAP L6 • 2 HaPalmach St • Adm the 17th century to the present day,
• Open 10am–3pm Mon–Wed, to 7pm and includes works by Degas, Monet,
Thu, 2pm Fri–Sat • www.islamicart.co.il Picasso, and Rothko. The building is
The scope and brilliance of Islamic an arrest ing geometric shape, with
civilization can be seen through three of its five floors underground.
illuminated manuscripts, ceramics,
metalwork, and jewelry from the
Arab world, Turkey, and Iran.
Beit HaTfutsot, Tel Aviv-
7
Jaffa
MAP X1 • University of Tel Aviv,
Ramat Aviv • Open 10am–7pm Sun–
Wed, to 10:30pm Thu, to 3pm Sat,
9am–2pm Fri • Adm • www.bh.org.il
Interactive displays, dioramas,
and videos reveal life in the Jewish
Diaspora. Don’t miss the 18 diverse A Degas at Tel Aviv Museum of Art
models of synagogues. Israel Museum,
Jerusalem
Yitzhak Rabin Center,
8 0
Tel Aviv-Jaffa
Highlights of the world’s largest
MAP W1 • 14 Haim Levanon • Open biblical archeology collection include
9am–5pm Sun, Mon, Wed, to 7pm the Dead Sea Scrolls, a 9th-century
Tue, Thu, to 2pm Fri • Adm • www. BC inscription that mentions the
rabincenter.org.il “House of David,” and a 6th-century
Using state-of-the-art technology to BC amulet that has the Priestly
tell the story of the birth of the State Benediction on it (see pp18–21).
040-041_Top_10_Israel.indd 41 19/06/2017 12:58

42 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Churches and Monasteries


various areas within the Church
of the Holy Sepulchre. Don’t miss
the tiny Coptic chapel at the rear of
the Sepulchre itself (see pp12–13).
Church of the
3
Multiplication of the
Loaves and Fishes, Tabgha
MAP B5 • (04) 667 8100 • Open
8am–5pm Mon–Fri (to 3pm Sat)
This austere Catholic church was
built in the 1980s on the site of a
5th-century Byzantine chapel. It is
believed to be the place where Jesus
fed the 5,000 with five loaves and two
fish (Matthew 15: 32–39). A mosaic
in front of the altar shows a basket
of bread flanked by fish (see p32).
Basilica of the
4
Cathedral of St. James in Jerusalem Annunciation, Nazareth
MAP C5 • Casa Nova St • (04) 657
Cathedral of St. James,
1 2501 • Open 8am–6pm
Jerusalem
The largest church in the Middle
MAP N5 • Armenian Quarter, Old City East, this is the traditional scene of
• (02) 628 2331 • Open 6–7:30am & the Annunciation. The apse of a 5th-
3–3:30pm daily century church encloses a sunken
This 12th-century Armenian church, grotto, backed by the remains of a
redolent with incense, has an elab- Crusader church. Above soars the
orate vaulted dome, gilded altars, modern edifice, consecrated in 1969.
and countless hanging oil lamps.
Church of the Nativity,
It stands over the tomb of St. James 5
the Apostle, whose severed head Bethlehem
lies in the third chapel on the left. This church is entered through the
Open during services only. tiny Door of Humility, its size aimed
at preventing looters from riding in
Church of the Holy
2 on horseback. In the nave, limestone
Sepulchre, Jerusalem
columns carry Crusader paintings of
Different Eastern and Western saints. Steps lead down to the Grotto
Christian denominations administer of the Nativity (see pp26–7).
Northern 85 Farod 90 BEIT Shivtei Jerusalem
Israel Mahane YISRAEL Israel
Yehuda
Sakhnin Tabgha HaDavidka Damascus SULEIMAN
Jaffa
Sea of NAKHLAOT Center Gate
65 Galilee BETSA L’EL NAHALAT
Rumane Lavi Tiberias KING GEORGE V SHIV’A
77 SHDEROT BEN TSVI City Hall OLD
Cana REHAVIA AGRON CITY JERICHO R D
Kinneret
RAMBAN CITY OF
Nazareth Kfar Tavor HARAV HERZO G KEREN HA- YEMIN DAVID
YESOD
90 TALBIYA MOSHE
0 km 8 0 meters 1000
KIRYAT
60
80 miles SHMUEL
(130 km) 0 miles 8 0 yards 1000
Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Two-column, 8.5pt grid “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v.1.9)
042-043_Top_10_Israel.indd 42 19/06/2017 12:58
Date 24th June 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Churches and Monasteries ❮❮ 43

Centre International
6
Marie de Nazareth,
Nazareth
MAP C5 • 15A Casa Nova St • (04) 646
1266 • Open 9:30am–noon & 2:30–
5pm Mon–Sat • www.cimdn.org
Opened in 2011 by a Catholic
organization based in France, this
elegant modern complex includes
a domed chapel for prayer and
meditation, a rooftop garden planted
with biblical plants, a multimedia
presentation on Mary of Nazareth,
and, in the basement, archeological Monastery of the Cross, Jerusalem
excavations from the time of Jesus. Monastery of the Cross,
Mount of Beatitudes,
Jerusalem
7 9
Sea of Galilee
MAP K5 • Shota Rustaveli St, West
MAP B5 • West off Route 90 Jerusalem • (052) 221 5144 • Open
• (04) 672 6712 • Open 8–11:45am 10am–4:30pm Mon–Sat • Adm
& 2–4:45pm daily Established in the 5th century AD,
Overlooking the northern shore, this this walled, fortified monastery, just
serene Italianate complex is believed down the hill from the Knesset, was
to stand on the site where Jesus rebuilt by monks from Georgia 600
delivered his Sermon on the Mount. years later. Now occupied by Greek
The domed, octagonal church from Orthodox monks, the interior has
1938 has colorful stained glass. exceptional frescoes and remnants
of a Byzantine mosaic.
Basilica of All Nations,
8 Church of the
Jerusalem
Transfiguration,
MAP Q4 • Mount of Olives, East 0
Jerusalem • (02) 626 6444 • Open Lower Galilee
8am–noon & 2–5pm daily, 1 hour MAP C5 • Mount Tabor • (04) 662 0720
later during daylight saving • Open 8–11:45am & 2–5pm Sun–Fri
Also known as the Basilica of the This “high mountain apart” has been
Agony, this Catholic church was built identified with Christ’s Transfiguration
in 1919–24 through global donations. since the 4th century. Various forts
It stands over the rock on which and churches have stood here since,
Jesus is said to have prayed before but the present Franciscan structure
his arrest. The gilded pediment dates from 1924. A viewpoint
mosaic depicts Christ’s agony. offers great vistas of the Galilee.
Basilica of All
Nations

















042-043_Top_10_Israel.indd 43 19/06/2017 12:58

44 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Ancient Synagogues


Umm
3
al-Kanatir
MAP B6 • Near Kibbutz
Natur, Golan Heights
Jewish residents built
the Golan’s largest
synagogue – 60 ft (18 m)
long, 43 ft (13 m) wide,
and 40 ft (12 m) high –
in the 6th century AD,
but it was turned into
a rocky jumble by the
Bar’am National Park’s synagogue great earthquake of
AD 749. Archeologists are figuring
Bar’am National Park
1 out the original placement of each of
piece of black basalt, and restoring
MAP B5 • Near Tziv’on, Hwy
899 • Open 8am–4pm Sat–Thu, the synagogue, stone by stone, to
8am–3pm Fri, 1 hour later during its former glory.
daylight saving • Adm • www.parks.
Korazim National Park
org.il 4
Built in the 3rd century AD, Bar’am MAP B5 • Near Almagor, Hwy
is one of Israel’s best-preserved 8277, off Route 90 • (04) 693 4982
ancient synagogues. Made of finely • Open 8am–4pm Sat–Thu, 8am–
carved basalt, the structure has 3pm Fri, 1 hour later during daylight
three doorways that face south saving • Adm • www.parks.org.il
toward Jerusalem. Inside, rows of Cursed by Jesus for refusing to heed
columns, some of them still in situ, his teachings (Matthew 11:20–22),
held up the roof. the well-preserved Mishnah- and
Talmud-era village of Korazim
Tzipori National Park
2 occupies a basalt-strewn hillside
overlooking the Sea of Galilee.
MAP C4 • Off Hwy 79 • Open
8am–4pm Sat–Thu, 8am–3pm Fri, The synagogue is decorated with
1 hour later during daylight saving fine haut-relief engravings.
• Adm • www.parks.org.il
Beit Alpha
An array of 5
outstanding mosaics, National
including a portrait Park
known as the “Mona MAP C5–D5 • Kibbutz
Lisa of the Galilee,” Heftzibah 7 miles (11
make Tzipori (Zippori; km) W of Beit She’an
known as Sepphoris • Open 8am–4pm Sat–
in Greek) one of Thu, 8am–3pm Fri,
Israel’s richest 1 hour later during
Roman- and daylight saving • Adm
Byzantine-era sites. • www.parks.org.il
In the 2nd century Decorated with Israel’s
AD, this was the seat Beit Alpha mosaic most renowned zodiac
of the Sanhedrin, the wheel mosaic, the
highest Jewish court. The floor of the floor of this Byzantine-era synagogue
5th-century synagogue is adorned (5th century AD) also depicts specif-
with Hebrew and Aramaic inscrip- ically Jewish symbols, such as the
tions and mosaics depicting a zodiac seven-branched menorah, the shofar
wheel and biblical scenes. (ram’s horn), and the Torah ark.

Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Two-column, 8.5pt grid “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v.1.9)
044-045_Top_10_Israel.indd 44 19/06/2017 12:58
Date 24th June 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Ancient Synagogues ❮❮ 45

Capernaum
6 0 km 10 Avivim Ramot Naftali Ein Zivan
MAP B5 • Hwy 87
• Open 8am–5pm daily 0 miles 10 89 Tziv’on 90 91
The Roman-era fishing Nahariyya 89
4
village of Capernaum Akko Majd el- Farod Rosh Pina
(Kfar Nahum in Hebrew) 85 Krum Karmi’el Korazim
is mentioned in all Ginosar Capernaum
four gospels. It has an 70 Sakhnin
Sea of
impressive 4th-century Kiryat Shfar’am Rumane 65 77 Galilee Haspin
synagogue, built on the Ata 79 Tiberias ‘En Gev 98
foundations of a syna- Tzipori Kinneret Ha-On’
gogue two centuries Kiryat Tiv’on Kfar Tavor
older. According to the Mishmar Nazareth
New Testament, Jesus 66 HaEmek Afula Gesher
became angry at the 71 90 10
people of Capernaum Musmus Izre’el’ Beit HaShita
when they did not take Beit Alpha Beit She’an JORDAN
his message to heart 65 Umm al- 66
Fahm
(Matthew 11:23–24). Jenin 50 miles (80 km)
Magdala
7 from the 2nd to 4th centuries AD.
The catacombs and synagogue are
MAP B5 • Migdal Junction,
Hwy 90 • Open 8am–6pm daily decorated with geometric designs,
• Adm • www.magdala.org Jewish symbols, Hellenistic motifs,
The synagogue in Magdala, the and inscriptions in Hebrew, Aramaic,
birth place of Mary Magdalene, Greek, and Palmyrene. Yehuda
dates from the time of Jesus’ Sea of HaNasi (AD 135–217), who redacted
Galilee ministry. The seven-branched the Mishnah (the first compilation of
menorah adorning the Magdala Jewish law), lived and is buried here.
Stone (a copy of the original that is
Katzrin
now in Jerusalem’s Israel Museum) 0
was probably carved by an artist who MAP B6 • Ancient Katzrin Park,
had himself seen just such a meno- Golan Heights • (04) 696 2412 • Open
rah in the Temple in Jerusalem. 9am–4pm Sun–Thu, 9am–2pm Fri
• Adm • parkqatzrin.org.il
Shalom Al Yisrael
8 Known for its ornate Greek-style
MAP F5 • Jericho, West Bank
capitals, this black-basalt syna-
Built in the 7th century AD, this gogue, built in stages from the late
synagogue has a mosaic floor 4th to the 7th centuries AD, is sur-
decorated with a seven-branched rounded by a reconstructed Talmud-
menorah, a lulav (palm branch), a era village. Hebrew and Aramaic
shofar (ram’s horn), and the inscrip- inscriptions from 30 ancient Golan
tion “shalom al Yisrael” (“peace upon synagogues can be seen nearby in
Israel”). Since the Oslo Accords of the Golan Archeological Museum.
1993 it has been administered by
the Palestinian Authority. Katzrin’s black basalt synagogue
Beit She’arim National
9
Park
MAP C4 • Kiryat Tiv’on • Open
8am–4pm Sat–Thu, 8am–3pm Fri,
1 hour later during daylight saving
• Adm • www.parks.org.il
Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site,
Beit She’arim served as a hugely
important centre of Jewish learning



044-045_Top_10_Israel.indd 45 19/06/2017 12:58

46 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Beaches


Hukuk
Ein Bokek
1 4
MAP B5 • 2 miles (3 km) N of
MAP H5 • Southern Basin,
Dead Sea Kibbutz Ginosar, Sea of Galilee • Adm
A room in one of the upmarket Dozens of small beaches surround
hotels here doesn’t come cheap, but the Sea of Galilee. Some, such as
thanks to an Israeli law guaranteeing Hukuk on the northwestern shore,
free public access to all beaches, have fine sand and facilities such as
floating in the mineral-rich waters changing rooms, kids’ play areas,
here doesn’t cost a shekel. eateries, and lifeguards, while others
are just isolated strips of pebbles.
Herzliya Pituah
5
MAP E3 • Ramat Yam St,
Herzliya, N of Tel Aviv-Jaffa
This beach town is home to many of
Israel’s successful tech companies
and, atop a seafront cliff, some of its
priciest homes. Below is a popular
fine-sand beach called Arkadia.
Changing facilities are available.
Caesarea Aqueduct
The beaches at Ein Bokek 6
MAP D3 • Aqueduct St,
Jisr az-Zarka
2 Caesarea
To bring fresh water from Mount
MAP C3 • Jisr az-Zarka
(accessible from Hwy 4) Carmel to Caesarea, 6 miles (10 km)
This lively Arab town, just north of to the southwest, the Romans built
Caesarea, has several places to eat tunnels and aqueducts that func-
and, a 10-minute walk away, a long tioned until the 12th century. Long
sandy beach with places to change, sections of the stone-built aqueduct
gazebos, and lifeguards nearby. stand along Caesarea Aqueduct
Beach. There are no facilities here.
Tel Aviv-Jaffa
3 Dolphin Reef
MAP E3 • Tel Aviv-Jaffa
Tel Avivis looking for a break from 7
MAP D2 • 2.5 miles (4 km) SW
their fast-paced lifestyle head to one of Eilat • Open 9am–4:30pm or 5pm
of the city’s 13 official beaches, each daily • Adm • www.dolphinreef.co.il
with its own personality and places Named for a pod of bottlenose
to eat and drink. Stretching along dolphins that live here, this
9 miles (14 km) of coastline, all have horseshoe-shaped lagoon has a
bathrooms, changing facilities, and sandy beach and offers the unique
pergolas for shade. Lifeguards are opportunity to swim, snorkel,
on duty May through October. and scuba dive with dolphins.
Tel Aviv-Jaffa’s miles of coastline










Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Two-column, 8.5pt grid “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v.1.9)
046-047_Top_10_Israel.indd 46 19/06/2017 12:58
Date 24th June 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Beaches ❮❮ 47



TOP 10 SAFETY TIPS FOR
THE DEAD SEA
1 Sunburn
Wear sunblock but don’t stress out
about sunburn – thanks to the density
of the air, you’ll get much less solar
radiation than at sea level.
2 Dehydration
The extreme heat can cause
dehydration, and so can osmosis while
swimming, so drink plenty of water.
Rocky shores at Dor-HaBonim 3 Salt Stings
Avoid shaving for a day or two before
Dor-HaBonim
8 taking a dip – Dead Sea waters cause
even the tiniest scratches to sting.
MAP C3 • Between HaBonim
and Dor, S of Haifa • Adm 4 Eye Care
Part of a nature reserve, this 3-mile Never dunk your head below the
(5-km) section of Mediterranean surface – if Dead Sea water gets in
your eyes, it will sting terribly.
coast is known for its dramatic
kurkar rock formations, tidal pools 5 Swallowing the Water
rich in marine life, tiny offshore Never swallow Dead Sea water –
islands, untouched beaches, and drinking even a small quantity can
be dangerous.
Tel Dor, the ruins of a Phoenician
port town. Camping is permitted. 6 Strong Winds
Don’t let the wind push you away
Beit Yanai-Michmoret
9 from the coast, or you may end up
floating toward Jordan.
MAP D3 • Beit Yanai • Adm
Nahal Alexander, coastal Israel's 7 Sinkholes
most ecologically healthy river Watch out for sinkholes around the
Dead Sea’s northern basin and heed
(it's a national park) flows into the all warning signs about them.
Mediterranean amid pristine sand
dunes dotted with grass and shrubs. 8 Flash Floods
Rain can turn wadis in the area into
Beit Yanai Beach, south of the dangerous torrents, so stay out of
estuary, has eateries; to the north, dry riverbeds if there has been rain
Michmoret Beach offers beautiful up in the Judean Desert.
views plus beachfront restaurants. 9 Rocky Seabed
Camping is permitted. Bring flip-flops, as parts of the
Coral Beach
0 Dead Sea have a rocky bottom.
10 Jewelry
MAP D2 • 4 miles (7 km)
SW of Eilat • Open 9am–5pm Sat– Leave your jewelry at home – minerals
in the water will discolor almost
Thu, 9am–4pm Fri, open 1 hour everything except 24-carat gold.
later during daylight saving • Adm
• www.parks.org.il
The Red Sea has some of the world’s
most incredible undersea life, and
this marine nature reserve is the
best place in Israel to experience it.
The beach itself is nothing special,
but get into the water and you’ll
discover gardens of extraordinary
coral inhabited by the kind of frilly,
colorful fish you can usually only
see in aquariums. Snorkeling gear Visitor enjoying the Dead Sea
is available for rent.
046-047_Top_10_Israel.indd 47 19/06/2017 12:58

48 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Children’s Attractions


Mini Israel, Latrun
3
MAP F3 • Latrun, off Rd 1
• 1700 599 599 • Adm • www.
minisrael.co.il
Tremendously enjoyable for children,
Mini Israel allows them to see the
country’s major sights in miniature.
There are about 400 scale models,
some of which are dynamic.
Dolphin Reef, Eilat
4
MAP D2 • South Beach • (08)
630 0111 • Open 9am–5pm daily
Bloomfield Science Museum • Adm
Swim with a pod of bottlenose
Bloomfield Science
1 dolphins, or watch them from the
Museum, Jerusalem
floating piers. There’s also a lovely
MAP J4 • Givat Ram, West Jerusalem beach with loungers, a restaurant,
• www.mada.org.il and a children’s activity center.
This interactive museum warrants
Underwater Observatory
a detour for its engaging displays 5
on architecture, gravity, electricity, Marine Park, Eilat
and communications. MAP D2 • Eilat • (08) 636 4200
• Open 8:30am–4pm daily • Adm
Hezekiah’s Tunnel,
2 • www.coralworld.co.il
Jerusalem
A tower that descends 40 feet (12 m)
MAP Q5 • City of David, East into the waters of the Gulf of Aqaba
Jerusalem • Adm • www.cityof affords up-close views of the Red
david.org.il Sea’s extraordinary corals and fish.
This amazing tunnel was While humans are confined to an
hacked out of the bedrock by aquarium, sea life is free to roam,
King Hezekiah to supply water gawk, and tap on the glass.
to the city of Jerusalem. Kids
adore wading through the Underwater Observatory
thigh-high water in the dark. Marine Park




















Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Two-column, 8.5pt grid “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v.1.9)
048-049_Top_10_Israel.indd 48 19/06/2017 12:58
Date 24th June 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm