(DK Eyewitness) Top 10 Travel Guide - Israel & Petra

Children’s Attractions ❮❮ 49

Rosh HaNikra Sea
0 km 50 91 7
Nahariyya Grottoes, Western Galilee
0 miles 50
85 MAP B4 • Western Galilee • (073) 271
Haifa 77 Tiberias
Mediterranean 4 Nazareth 0100 • Adm • www.rosh-hanikra.com
Sea 71 Carved out of white chalk cliffs by
Khadera Beit She’an the pounding Mediterranean, these
Netanya 90 caves flicker with an ever-changing
57
2 Nablus palette of blues. Kids love the cable-
Tel Aviv-Jaffa 60 65 Amman car ride, the heaving seas, and the
Ramallah relics of the old Haifa–Beirut railroad.
Ashdod Jerusalem
1
Ashkelon 6 Alpaca Farm, the Negev
Gaza Kiryat Hebron 8
Gat MAP B2 • Mitzpe Ramon • (08)
4 60 Dead 658 8047 • Adm • www.alpaca.co.il
Sea
Arad
Be’er Sheva 31 Kerak Alpacas and llamas are reared here
Mamshit along with horses, camels, donkeys,
40
10
ISR AEL JORDAN and sheep. There are wool-weaving
Avdat activities for kids, plus horseback
Mitzpe Ramon riding around Makhtesh Ramon.
Tsofar
Ash Shawbak
Be’er Menukha
40
EGYPT 10 90 Dilaghah
Yotvata
33
Eilat Aqaba
Luna Gal Water Park,
6
Sea of Galilee
MAP B6 • Golan Beach • (04) 667
8000 • Open May–Sep • Adm Alpaca Farm resident
Israel’s oldest water park, on the
Jerusalem Biblical Zoo
eastern edge of the Sea of Galilee, 9
is even suitable for toddlers. Entry MAP F4 • 1 Aharon Shulov St,
also allows beach access, and there West Jerusalem • Adm • www.
are kayaks and inner tubes for hire. jerusalemzoo.org.il/len/
There’s a special focus on species
mentioned in the Bible, but you can
also see red pandas, tigers, spider
monkeys, elephants, and penguins
at this Jerusalem zoo.
Israel Children’s
0
Museum, Holon
MAP E3 • 1 Mifratz Shlomo St, Peres
Park • (03) 650 3000 • Call ahead
to book in advance • www.
childrensmuseum.org.il
Devoted to broadening young minds,
this museum encourages interactive
participation. Vision- and hearing-
impaired guides conduct tours that
leave a lasting impres sion on the
museum’s young visitors.

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50 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Outdoor Activities
















Camel safaris leading visitors through rugged desert landscapes
Desert Safaris
Skiing
1 3
www.hermonski.co.il
Tour operators: www.visit
Snowfall can be erratic on Mount jordan.com, www.cameland.co.il,
Hermon but there’s usually skiing for www.beerotayim.co.il
a few weeks a year. When it’s warm Some excellent outfits in the Negev
visitors can ride a ski lift up to the offer camel trips along the Spice
highest point in Israeli territory Route’s old car avan trails. In Jordan,
(7,336 ft/2,236 m) for alpine flowers the striking land scapes of Wadi Rum
and spectacular panoramas (65 miles/105 km south of Petra),
a UNESCO World Heritage Site,
Diving and Snorkeling
2 can be explored by camel or Jeep.
Dive operators: www.snuba.
Water Sports
co.il; www.oonasdiveclub.com; 4
www.inmodivers.de Operators: www.kiteaway.com
Thanks to the Red Sea’s clear water, The Mediterranean coast is ideal for
colorful reefs, and diverse marine life, sailboarding (windsurfing), in which
Eilat offers an excellent intro duction Israel has won three Olympic medals,
to one of the world’s most extra­ and kitesurfing. Several spots near
ordinary underwater eco systems. Tel Aviv and Haifa offer decent surf­
Operators offer scuba diving and you ing, brought to Israel in the 1950s.
can rent snorkeling gear at several
Bird-Watching
beaches. Or try “snuba,” a cross 5
between diving and snorkeling. Tour operators: www.birds.
org.il, www.israbirding.com,
Snorkeling in the Red Sea natureisrael.org/birding, www.
kibbutzlotan.com, www.parks.org.il
Located on the main migration route
between Africa and Europe, Israel is
perfect for bird­watching. Eilat and
Lotan eco­kibbutz in the Negev are
good bases, as is the famed Hula
Nature Reserve in the Galilee.
Matkot
6
This popular beach game uses
wooden racquets and a squash ball,
and only requires you to maintain
the longest volley possible.

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Outdoor Activities ❮❮ 51

Rappelling and
7 TOP 10 HIKES
Canyoning
Tour operators: www.israel-extreme.
com, www.adventure-israel.com
Also known as abseiling (snepling
in Hebrew), rappelling down cliffs
and dry waterfalls is very popular in
Israel. Favorite sites include Nahal
Zavitan on the Golan, Keshet Cave
in the Western Galilee, and Nahal
Daraja near the Dead Sea.
Cycling
8 Hiking through the Red Canyon
Tour operators: www.ibike.
1 Red Canyon
co.il, www.abrahamtours.com, Off Rd 12, N of Eilat • Egged bus 392
www.geofun.co.il Enjoy a 1.5- to 2.5-hour trek down
New trails offer ever more options this colorful red sandstone canyon.
for cyclists and mountain bikers, 2 Mount Shlomo
particularly in the Negev. Makhtesh Off Rd 12, N of Eilat • Egged bus 392
Ramon has challenges for all levels This long hike affords terrific views
and the green, hilly area of the from the top of the mountain over
Galilee is another top destination. the Red Sea and Sinai region.
3 Makhtesh Ramon
Start hiking from Mitzpe Ramon to get
to the crater; maps are available at the
information center (see pp98–9).
4 Ein Avdat National Park
The Nahal Zin trail has some stunning
pools and picnic spots (see p98).
5 Ein Gedi Nature Reserve
Most people only visit the David Falls,
but if you have time, attempt the
stunning Dry Canyon hike (see p97).
6 Jesus Trail
Mountain bikers on a desert ridge www.jesustrail.com
Walk from Nazareth to the Sea of
Hiking
9 Galilee past Tzipori and sites referred
to in the New Testament.
Tour operators: www.nature
israel.org (SPNI), www.walking 7 Yehudiya Nature Reserve
palestine.org Off Rd 87, Lower Golan • www.
Israel boasts an extensive network parks.co.il
Some trails involve swimming across
of marked trails. The Society for the deep pools. Parts of the reserve may
Protection of Nature in Israel runs be inaccessible in winter.
guided group day hikes; seasonal 8 Sea-to-Sea Hike
trips feature migrating birds (spring Three-day hike to the Sea of Galilee
and fall) and rare wild flowers (spring). from the Mediterranean.
Horseback Riding
0 9 Israel National Trail
www.israeltrail.net
Tour operators: www.alpacas-
farm.com, www.veredhagalil.co.il Israel’s top long-distance trail runs 646
miles (1,040 km) from Kibbutz Dan, on
Horseback riding is a great way to the Lebanese border, to the Red Sea.
explore Israel’s rural areas, as well 10 Nahal Ayun Nature Reserve
as parts of the Mediterranean coast. www.parks.org.il
There are a number of stables in the Follow the Ayun River south from the
Galilee, where the rolling hills offer Galilee’s northernmost point, Metulla.
spectacular views.



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52 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Israeli Writers


world. Known for their accessibility,
his enduringly popular poems have
been translated into 40 languages.
Ephraim Kishon
4
(1924–2005)
After barely surviving the Holocaust,
Budapest-born Kishon moved to
Israel in 1949. He began publishing
in Hebrew just two years later,
quickly establishing himself as a
humorist and social and political
satirist. Two of the movies he wrote,
directed, and produced – Sallah
Shabati (1964) and The Policeman
(1971) – were nominated for Oscars.
Aharon Applefeld
Nobel Prize winner S. Y. Agnon 5
(b. 1932)
S. Y. Agnon (1888–1970)
1 As a child, Romanian-born Applefeld
Agnon won the 1966 Nobel
escaped from a Nazi concentration
Prize for Literature for works that camp and spent three years in hiding
explore the tension between modern before moving to Palestine in 1946.
life and Jewish tradition. Set in His novels approach the Holocaust
Eastern Europe and Palestine, they obliquely, with Badenheim 1939
draw on traditional Jewish sources, depicting the obliviously optimistic
especially the Hebrew Bible and the Jews of an Austrian spa town on
writings of medieval Jewish sages. the eve of World War II.
His seminal novel, The Bridal Canopy
Amos Oz (b. 1939)
(1931), is set in Hassidic Galicia in 6
the early 1800s. Born to a right-wing
Jerusalem family, Israel’s most
Emile Habibi (1922–96)
2 widely translated author spent much
of his life on socialist Kibbutz Hulda,
Born in Haifa to a Christian
Arab family, Habibi remained in the and has long been an outspoken
city after 1948, becoming a leader peace activist. His evocative novels
of the Israeli Communist Party are known for realistic characters,
and serving in the Knesset. His a lightly ironic tone, and a critical
works, including The Secret take on kibbutz life.
Life of Saeed: The Pessoptimist,
A. B. Yehoshua
use satire and black humor 7
to consider the contra- (b. 1936)
dictions of life as an Scion of an Sephardic
Arab citizen of Israel. Jerusalem family,
Yehoshua captures the
Yehuda Amichai
3 mood of contemporary Israel
(1924–2000)
in richly textured novels that
Juxtaposing colloquialisms focus on individual concerns
with classical Hebrew, and interpersonal dynamics.
Amichai’s poetry explores Many of his works examine the
daily existence in the modern ways in which impulses and
passions can strip away the
Novelist A. B. Yehoshua veneer of civilization.
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Israeli Writers ❮❮ 53

David Grossman
8 TOP 10 ISRAELI MUSICIANS
(b. 1954)
Jerusalem-born author and peace 1 Shoshana Damari (1923–2006)
activist Grossman is a modernist, Yemen-born singer whose husky
employing stream of consciousness, renditions of popular Hebrew songs
changing narrative perspectives, and spanned eight decades.
a mix of realism and the fantastical. 2 Naomi Shemer (1930–2004)
His best-known works include Prolific songwriter and composer
The Yellow Wind (1987), a searing most famous for her 1967 song
nonfiction examination of Israel’s Jerusalem of Gold.
West Bank occupation, and the anti- 3 Arik Einstein (1939–2013)
war novel To the End of The Land Songwriter, singer, and actor who
(2008), written two years after his played a pivotal role in the
son was killed in action in Lebanon. development of Israeli rock.
4 Shlomo Bar (b. 1943)
Moroccan-born composer, musician,
and “ethnic music” pioneer.
5 Shalom Chanoch (b. 1946)
Composer, songwriter, and singer
who, in the early 1970s, was one
of the founders of Israeli rock.
6 Shlomo Artzi (b. 1949)
One of Israel’s most successful and
beloved rock singer-songwriters
and composers.
7 Yehuda Poliker (b. 1950)
Singer-songwriter whose Greek-
inflected music mixes the bouzouki
with the electric guitar.
8 David Broza (b. 1955)
Haifa-born singer-songwriter and
virtuoso guitarist who derives his
Essayist and writer Etgar Keret inspiration from the music of Spain,
where he grew up.
Etgar Keret (b. 1967)
9 9 Rita (b. 1962)
Teheran-born pop singer and actor,
Known for his inventive short
story collections, essays, graphic who sings in Hebrew and, more
novels, and TV and movie scripts, recently, Persian.
Keret writes about the paradoxes 10 Aviv Geffen (b. 1973)
of life in Israel with a zany sense Popular rock musician, songwriter,
of humor. His short stories have singer, and producer, who is also a
appeared in The New Yorker and on Generation X counter-culture icon.
US public radio’s This American Life
show and podcast.
Sayed Kashua (b. 1975)
0
An Israeli Palestinian who
writes exclusively in Hebrew, Kashua
uses tongue-in-cheek wit to portray
the contradictions, ironies, and
indignities of life as an assimilated
Arab in Israel. His work includes
three novels, a weekly newspaper
column (in Haaretz), two TV comedy
shows, and the movie A Borrowed Shoshana Damari on stage
Identity (2014).






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54 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Performing Arts

















Orchestral concert performance at the Jerusalem Theatre
Zappa Club
Jerusalem Theatre
1 3
MAP L6 • 20 David Marcus St,
www.zappa-club.co.il
Talbiyeh, West Jerusalem • www. Israel’s top sponsor of live music,
jerusalem-theatre.co.il Zappa hosts Israeli and international
Israel’s largest cultural complex, talent at venues in Tel Aviv, Herzliya,
officially the Jerusalem Centre for Jerusalem, Haifa, and Binyamina.
the Performing Arts, has four per-
Cameri Theatre, Tel
formance spaces hosting local and 4
international dance and theater – Aviv-Jaffa
with English surtitles for some MAP X2 • 19 Shaul HaMelech Blvd
productions – art-house films, and • www.cameri.co.il
concerts (the Jerusalem Symphony Based in the Tel Aviv Performing
Orchestra is based here). Arts Center (TAPAC), the repertory
company here stages Israeli plays
and world classics translated into
Hebrew in five auditoriums. Some
productions have English surtitles.
Yiddishpiel, Tel Aviv-Jaffa
5
MAP W2 • Performances at
Tzavta, 30 Ibn Gabirol St • (03) 525
4660 • www.yiddishpiel.co.il.org.il
About 11 million Jews spoke Yiddish
on the eve of World War II; today
perhaps 600,000 do. To help keep
Modern exterior of HaBima Theater Eastern European Jewish cul ture
alive, Yiddishpiel stages colorful,
HaBima Theater, Tel
2 often nostalgic, Yiddish productions.
Aviv-Jaffa
Al-Kasaba Theatre and
MAP W3 • 2 Tarsat Blvd • www. 6
habima.co.il Cinematheque, Ramallah
Founded in Moscow in 1917, Israel’s MAP F4 • Hospital St, Ramallah
national theater company moved to • www.alkasaba.org/english.php
Tel Aviv in 1928. It stages modern An active community space hosting
and classic Israeli and international theater productions for adults and
plays in its four auditoriums. Some children, and daily movies. There’s
productions have English surtitles. also a gallery space and resto-bar.

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Performing Arts ❮❮ 55

Jerusalem Khan
7 TOP 10 CULTURAL EVENTS
Theatre
MAP N6 • 2 David Remez St, West
Jerusalem • khan.co.il
Housed in a one-time caravanserai,
this atmospheric venue is home to
Jerusalem’s only repertory theater
and hosts regular visiting companies.
Suzanne Dellal Centre,
8
Tel Aviv-Jaffa
MAP U5 • 5 Yechieli St • www.bat
sheva.co.il, www.suzannedellal.org.il Tel Aviv Gay Pride parade
This is the home of the celebrated
Batsheva Dance Company, founded 1 Jacob’s Ladder Festival
in 1963 by Martha Graham and now May • www.jlfestival.com
led by Ohad Naharin. Housed in two A weekend of folk and world music
beautifully renovated Ottoman-era on the shores of the Sea of Galilee.
Jewish schools, this is Israel’s most 2 International Klezmer Festival
important contemporary dance center. Mid-May • www.klezmerim.info
Safed is the ideal venue for the world’s
largest festival of Jewish soul music.
3 Israel Festival
May–Jun • www.israel-festival.org
This is Israel’s leading multidisciplinary
arts festival.
4 Tel Aviv Gay Pride
Late May/early Jun
Some 200,000 revellers make this
Asia’s largest LGBT celebration.
5 Midburn
Mid-Jun • www.midburn.org
The Israeli version of Burning Man
Jerusalem’s Cinematheque takes place in the Negev desert.
6 White Night Tel Aviv
Cinematheques
9 Late Jun
Dozens of cultural events, including
MAP N6 • 11 Hebron Rd,
West Jerusalem; 2 Sprintzak, Tel Aviv- beach concerts and parties.
Jaffa • (02) 565 4330, (03) 606 0800 7 Karmiel Dance Festival
• www.jer-cin.org.il Mid-Aug • www.karmielfestival.co.il
Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, and Haifa have Thousands of dancers participate in
vibrant cinematheques. Jerusalem’s this global folk dance extravaganza.
hosts a film festival in July, screening 8 Red Sea Jazz Festival
world and new Israeli cinema. Late Aug • www.redseajazz.co.il
Outdoor jazz performances in Eilat by
Charles Bronfman
0 top Israeli and international talent.
Auditorium, Tel Aviv-
9 Acco International Fringe
Jaffa Theater Festival
MAP W3 • 1 Huberman St • (03) Sep or Oct • www.accofestival.co.il
Avant-garde theatre and street
621 1777 • www.ipo.co.il performances in Crusader-era venues.
Home to the world-renowned Israel
Philharmonic Orchestra, founded in 10 International Film Festivals
www.jff.org.il, www.taufilmfest.com,
1936 by Jewish musicians fleeing the www.docaviv.co.il, www.haifaff.co.il
Nazis. Its perform ances of Western World-class annual film festivals take
classical music range from flagship place in Jerusalem, Tel Aviv, and Haifa.
gala series to concerts for children.


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56 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Regional Dishes





















A colorful spread of meze or salatim dishes at the start of a meal
Meze or Salatim
Sabich
1 3
Sabich Frishman: 42 Frishman
Most Israeli and Palestinian
meals begin with a salad spread – St, Tel Aviv-Jaffa; Oved Sabich:
salatim to Israelis or meze to Arabs. 7 Sirkin St, Gavatayim
Hummus is, of course, the best- This Iraqi-Jewish pita sandwich
loved dish, but close contenders contains potato, tahini, salad, spices,
are labane (yogurt), baba ghanoush and parsley, but the key ingredients
(eggplant dip), and fattoush (pita are fried eggplant and a hard-boiled
bread salad), while olives and pickles egg. When in Tel Aviv head to Sabich
invariably make an appearance. Frishman, or to Gavatayim’s famed
Oved Sabich for a taste.
Falafel
2 Shakshuka
The ultimate street food,
Dr Shakshuka: 3 Beit Eshel St,
falafel is delicious as well as 4
affordable. The pita comes stuffed Tel Aviv-Jaffa
with tomato and cucumber salad, An Israeli classic, this dish of eggs
coleslaw, tahini (hummus), and a poached in a rich tomato, pepper,
dribble of amba (mango chutney). and onion sauce, has its roots in
North Africa. Locals usually eat it for
breakfast, but it is good at any time.
Schnitzel
5
Ashkenazi Jews brought the
schnitzel from Austria and Germany,
and it’s now omnipresent. Chicken
or turkey is pounded thin, coated in
breadcrumbs, and pan fried. You find
it in fast-food places, crammed into
pita with salads, or dressed up with
sesame seeds, spices, and garlic in
fancy restaurants.
Falafel, a very popular street food



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Regional Dishes ❮❮ 57

Malawach and Jahnoun
6 TOP 10 PLACES FOR HUMMUS
Brought to Israel by Yemenite
Jews, malawach is a pan-fried bread
served with a grated-tomato dip,
hard-boiled eggs, and a spicy sauce.
The same accompaniments enhance
jahnoun, a slow-baked bread roll.
Both make for a heavy meal.
Kibbe/Kubbe
7
These little croquettes are
made of bulgur wheat and minced
meat (usually lamb), mixed with Bowl of chickpea hummus
onions and pine nuts. A staple in 1 Abu Shukri (Jerusalem)
Iraqi-Jewish and Palestinian cuisine, 63 Al-Wad St, Muslim Quarter
they come shaped as torpedos or • Open 8am–4:30pm Mon–Fri
balls, and are sually served as meze. Known for their sour, light hummus.
Kebab and Shashlik
8 2 Ta’ami (Jerusalem)
3 Shamai St, nr Zion Sq, West
In the Middle East, kebab
Jerusalem • Open 9am–6pm
refers to meat (usually lamb) that Sun–Thu, 9am–3pm Fri
has been ground and spiced, then Popular for their hummus with meat.
grilled on a skewer, while shashlik 3 Abu Hassan-Ali Karavan
is chunks of meat cooked the same (Tel Aviv-Jaffa)
way. Israelis grill on a mangal 1 HaDolphin St • Open 8am–3pm
(barbeque). Shawarma is the local, Sun–Fri
often turkey-based, version of a gyro. A veteran joint that some say serves
Jaffa’s finest hummus.
4 Abu Shaker (Haifa)
29 HaMeginim Blvd • Open
8am–6pm daily
Superior hummus since 1936.
5 Ashkara (Tel Aviv-Jaffa)
45 Yirmiyahu St • Open 24 hrs
Sun–Thu, noon–3pm Fri
An old favorite near the Yarkon River.
6 Lina (Jerusalem)
42 Al-Khanka St, Christian Quarter
• Open 8am–4pm Sun–Fri, to 6pm Sat
Three generations of fine hummus.
Crispy baklava on display
7 Abu Suheil (Akko)
Baklava
9 14/21 Salah al-Din St • Open
8am–5pm Wed–Mon
A plate of baklava, in a variety
of shapes and colors, is served at the Unpretentious, outstanding hummus.
end of meals across the Middle East. 8 Abou Maroun (Haifa)
1 Kibbutz Galuyot St, Wadi Salib
The layers of crisp phyllo pastry and • Open 8am–4pm daily
honey-soaked chopped nuts are This place is the pride of Haifa.
made even stickier by syrup. Look 9 Sa’id (Akko)
out for baklava shops in Jerusalem’s Benjamin of Tuleda St, Market, Old
Old City, Nazareth, and Haifa. City • Open 6am–2:30pm Sun–Fri
Undoubtedly the best in Akko.
Knafeh
0 10 Abou Adham (Kafr Yasif)
This beloved Palestinian pastry
consists of gooey sweet cheese Off Rd 70, 7 miles (11 km) NE of
Akko • Open 8am–5pm daily
coated in crunchy pastry, drizzled People drive miles for this hummus.
with rose syrup, and cut into slices.
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58 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Restaurants


Satya, Jerusalem
Toto, Tel Aviv-Jaffa
1 4
Satya welcomes guests with a
Chef Yaron Shalev is known for
intriguing, delicious, and satisfying complimentary plate of bread, olives,
dishes. Contrasting aromas and and other nibbles. The menu offers
textures come together beautifully a wide selection of international
in calamari salad, classic and local classics, including
tortellini filled with seafood, many of them
succulent meat, so attractive you might
delicately seasoned want to take a picture
fish, thin-crust pizza, before digging in. It
and divine mille- also has an excellent
feuille, among other wine list and is open
dishes (see p87). on Shabbat (see p73).
Taizu, Tel
Fattoush,
2 5
Haifa
Aviv-Jaffa
This palace of Asian- A fixture of Haifa’s
Mediterranean cuisine Satya’s German Colony culinary
is known for its olive selection scene for two decades,
attention to detail, from Fattoush attracts people
sophisticated, palate-teasing flavors from all walks of life – Arabs and
of East Asia to the ultramodern Jews, students and artists, locals
dining space. For a reasonably priced and tourists – for Arab cuisine that
taste, drop by at midday for the is both traditional and innovative.
business lunch menu (see p87). The patio offers views of the
beautiful Baha’i Gardens (see p95).
Machneyuda, Jerusalem
3 The Norman,
This restaurant cooks up
Tel Aviv-Jaffa
Mediterranean cuisine using fresh 6
ingredients, with the menu changing In what may be Tel Aviv’s most
weekly depending on the season. elegant dining space, Chef Barak
A split-level space, it is furnished in Aharoni blends French cuisine with
country kitchen style, with checkered English, Mediterranean, and Israeli
napkins on the tables, and shelves influences. Meticulously prepared
loaded with wine and various types from top-quality ingredients, a meal
of produce (see p73). here is an experience (see p87).
The Norman, one of Tel Aviv-Jaffa’s most elegant restaurants

















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Restaurants ❮❮ 59

Raphaël, Tel Aviv-Jaffa
7 TOP 10 WINERIES AND
Arguably Israel’s best chef,
Raphi Cohen is known for his fusion BREWERIES
of Moroccan cooking with French
techniques, creating a distinctive
Mediterranean flavor. This is also the
place to sample New Israeli cuisine,
which uses eggplant, tomato, yogurt,
tahini, friki (roasted green cracked
wheat), and chickpeas (see p87).
HaBasta, Tel Aviv-Jaffa
8
Its location next to Tel Aviv’s
biggest produce market is what Storage drums at Carmel Winery
makes HaBasta so very Israeli and at
the same time a market restaurant 1 Carmel Winery
of the kind you might find in France. MAP C3 • Winery St, Zichron Ya’akov
Some dishes are perennials, but Founded by Baron Rothschild in 1882.
others change daily based on what’s Try its Mizrachi Private Collection.
available. Locals recommend trying 2 Golan Heights Winery
dishes made with goat’s meat and MAP B6 • Katzrin, Golan Heights
Jerusalem artichoke (see p87). Yarden is its premier label, and the
Cabernet Sauvignon is highly rated.
Also try the Golan and Gamla labels.
3 Margalit
MAP D3 • Caesarea
Family-owned business notable for
its Cabernet Franc and Enigma labels.
4 Barkan
MAP F3 • Kibbutz Hulda
Famed for its Cabernet Sauvignon.
5 Clos de Gat
MAP F3 • Ayalon Valley
These vineyards produce the Sycra
collection, including a good Muscat.
6 Domaine du Castel
MAP F4 • Ramat Raziel
Diners at Uri Buri, Akko Sample the good Castel Grand Vin
Uri Buri, Akko
9 at this family-run winery.
7 Yatir Winery
Facing the seaside defensive
wall of Akko’s Old City, Uri Buri MAP H4 • Arad
Yatir Forest is the flagship label of this
specializes in turning the bounty small winery, part-owned by Carmel.
of the Mediterranean into perfectly
cooked, delicately seasoned dishes. 8 Adir Winery
MAP B5 • Dalton Industrial Park,
Acclaimed chef Uri Yirmias is Upper Galilee
not afraid to surprise diners with Award-winning wines from the Dalton
unexpected combinations (see p95). Plateau area of the northern Galilee.
Al-Reda, Nazareth
0 9 Taybeh Brewery
MAP F4 • Taybeh village,
Located in the Old City, in an
18th-century mansion suffused with near Ramallah
The only Palestinian beer, Taybeh
the élan of elite Ottoman society, is a golden German-style brew.
Al-Reda, with its creative Levantine 10 Golan Brewpub
and Arab cuisine, has helped make MAP B6 • Katzrin, Golan Heights
Nazareth one of the most exciting Four boutique beers brewed on site.
culinary centers of Israel (see p95).
For a key to restaurant price ranges see p73

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60 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Israel and Petra for Free


Knesset, Jerusalem
1
MAP J4 • Givat Ram, West
Jerusalem • (02) 675 3337 • English
tours at 8:30am, noon, 2pm Sun &
Thu • www.knesset.gov.il
The debating chamber, committee
rooms, and artworks of Israel’s
120-member parliament can be
visited on an hour-long guided tour.
When the Knesset is in session,
visitors can also sit in on debates, Ma’agan Michael Ship, Hecht Museum
(Monday and Tuesday from 4pm,
Hecht Museum, Haifa
Wednesday from 11am). Dress 4
appropriately; bring your passport. One of Israel’s best archeology
collections brings alive the cultures
Supreme Court,
2 of the Levant from the time of
Jerusalem
Canaan to the Byzantine period. The
MAP J3 • Givat Ram, West Jerusalem star exhibit is the Ma’agan Michael
• (02) 675 9612 • English tours at Ship, which plied the Mediterranean
noon Sun–Thu • www.court.gov.il 2,500 years ago (see p25).
Filled with architectural references
Rosh Pina, Upper Galilee
to over two millennia of construction 5
in the land of Israel, the home of MAP B5 • HaHalutzim St, Rosh
Israel’s Supreme Court elegantly Pina
combines enclosed and open- Much as they were in the 1880s, the
air spaces. Opened in 1992, it is quiet lanes of Rosh Pina’s old town
acclaimed as one of Israel’s most are lined with stone houses. Visit the
magnificent public buildings. old synagogue, a small museum, the
Baron’s Garden, and the cemetery.
Baha’i Gardens, Haifa
3 Ramat HaNadiv, Zichron
Cascading down the slopes
Ya’akov
of Mount Carmel, the exquisitely 6
landscaped Baha’i Gardens (see MAP C3 • Zichron Ya’akov • (04) 629
pp24–5) bring together flowers, 8111 • Open 8am–4pm Sat–Thu, to
manicured grass, burbling streams, 2pm Fri • www.ramat-hanadiv.org.il
dramatic formal staircases, and Near the southern end of Mount
fabulous views of the Mediterranean. Carmel, this beautiful hilltop park
The layout was inspired in part by was built as a memorial to Baron
traditional Persian gardens. The Edmond de Rothschild. Trails lead
gold-domed Shrine of the Bab is through landscaped gardens to
surrounded by the lower gardens. fine views of the Mediterranean.
Baha’i Gardens, Haifa












Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Two-column, 8.5pt grid “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v.beta)
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Date 30th October 2014
Size 100mm x 191mm

Israel and Petra for Free ❮❮ 61

Old City, Akko (Acre)
7 TOP 10 BUDGET TIPS
Inhabited for at least 4,000
years, the mixed Jewish­Arab port
city of Akko (see p93) is surrounded
by massive walls. Many of the Old
City’s famous Crusader sites charge
entrance fees, but visitors can
explore the ramparts, sea wall,
the souk (market), and the four
khans (caravanserais) for free.
Yad Vashem, Jerusalem
8
On a forested hillside at the
western edge of Jerusalem, the Yad
Vashem complex (see p40) is Israel’s
official Holocaust memorial. The
History Museum commemorates Jerusalem’s light rail (tram)
Jewish victims of Nazism through 1 For cash advances, use a credit/debit
their possessions and the testi mony card that offers a low (or zero) foreign
of survivors, while the Art Museum and cash transaction fee and a good
displays works created in hiding in exchange rate. Check all fees with
ghettos and concentration camps. your card provider before traveling.
2 To get to and from Ben Gurion
Airport, take the train rather than a
taxi. If traveling between Jerusalem
and the airport, take the train, Afikim
bus 485, or a shared Nesher taxi.
3 Take public transportation, including
trains, sherut minibuses, and – using
a rechargeable Rav-Kav smart card –
urban and intercity buses.
4 If you rent a car, get insurance
through your credit card (check
Yad Vashem’s Hall of Names coverage and get a letter from your
issuer before you leave home).
Ein Bokek, Dead Sea
9 5 Explore Tel Aviv-Jaffa by renting
one of the 2,000 green city-owned
MAP H5 • Ein Bokek
The same Dead Sea beaches enjoyed Tel-OE-Fun bicycles available at 200
by luxury hotel guests are, by law, stations (www.tel-o-fun.co.il).
open to the public for free. A seaside 6 Head to the beach on foot or by
prome nade links the beaches with bicycle – at almost all beaches, the
changing rooms and other facilities. only fee is for parking.
7 Save on accommodation costs by
Baha’i Gardens and
0 sleeping in a dorm bed at the 30-plus
Shrine of Baha’ullah,
affiliates of Israel Hostels (www.
near Akko hostels-israel.com).
MAP B4 • 3 miles (5 km) NE of Akko’s 8 Fill up on local healthy, delicious
Old City, near Bustan HaGalil • Open street food, such as falafel, sabich,
9am–4pm daily except Baha’i hols, and hummus.
inner garden and shrine 9am–noon 9 Shop for picnics at markets such
Fri–Mon • www.ganbahai.org.il as Mahane Yehuda in Jerusalem and
The burial place of Baha’ullah, the Shuk HaCarmel in Tel Aviv-Jaffa.
founder of the Baha’i faith, is sur­ 10 If you plan on visiting several
rounded by serene, formal “paradise nature reserves and national parks,
gardens.” This holy site is a place of buy a Green Card, valid for 14 days.
pilgrimage. Dress modestly.




060-061_Top_10_Israel.indd 61 19/06/2017 12:58

62 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Religious Holidays
and Festivals



















Holy Saturday celebrations at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Jerusalem
Purim
Easter
1 3
Late Feb/Mar
Mar/Apr/May
This festival commemorates the Celebrated on different dates by
deliverance of the Jews of ancient the Eastern and Western churches,
Persia from annihilation. The Book Easter is a movable feast. On Good
of Esther is read in synagogues, Friday and Easter Sunday, the Via
children dress up, and parades are Dolorosa is a sight to behold. Most
held in some cities, including Holon. magnificent is the Holy Saturday
celebration in the Church of the
Passover (Pesach)
2 Holy Sepulchre (see pp12–13).
Late Mar/Apr
Eid al-Fitr
Passover, or Pesach, remembers the 4
liberation of the Jews from captivity, Mar/Apr/May/Jun
and their Exodus from Egypt. During The three-day Muslim festival of Eid
the week-long festival, Jews eat al-Fitr marks the end of Ramadan,
symbolic foods, including matzah the month of fasting. It is celebrated
(unleavened bread). The first and with communal prayers, giving new
last days are official public holidays. clothes and gifts to children, and
spending time with family.
Eid al-Adha
5
May/Jun/Jul/Aug
Eid al-Adha honors Ibrahim’s
(Abraham’s) willingness to sacrifice
his son to God. It also marks the
end of the Haj (pilgrimage) to Mecca.
The four-day event involves prayers,
feasts, and charitable dona tion.
New Year
6
Sep/Oct
Rosh HaShanah, the Jewish New
Passover at Jerusalem’s Western Wall Year, marks the start of ten days


Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Two-column, 8.5pt grid “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v.1.9)
062-063_Top_10_Israel.indd 62 19/06/2017 12:58
Date 24th June 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Religious Holidays and Festivals ❮❮ 63


of prayer. The Muslim New Year
begins on the first day of Muharram. TOP 10 RELIGIOUS FAITHS
January 1 is not a public holiday. 1 Judaism
The oldest Abrahamic religion is based
Yom Kippur
7 on a covenantal relationship between
God and the Jewish people.
Sep/Oct
The Day of Atonement, marking 2 Samaritans
the end of the ten days of penitence A dissident sect of Judaism, Samaritans
that begin on Rosh HaShanah, is live either in Nablus or Holon and now
Judaism’s most solemn day. Many number just over 700.
Jews fast from sundown to sundown. 3 Karaites
In Jewish areas no one drives, and A subsect of Judaism dating back to
pedestrians and cyclists take over. the 8th century, Karaites believe that
only the written Torah is binding.
Sukkot
8 About 40,000 live in Israel.
Late Sep/Oct
4 Orthodox Christianity
Beginning five days after Yom Kippur, Greeks are the dominant Orthodox
this joyous seven-day holiday honors group in Jerusalem. Russians, Ethiopians,
both the fall harvest and the 40 years and Armenians also have a presence.
the Children of Israel spent in the 5 Catholicism
desert after the Exodus. Observant The Latin church arrived in Jerusalem
Jews erect a sukkah (temporary with the Crusaders.
shel ter) on rooftops and balconies. 6 Islam
Founded by the Prophet Mohammad,
Islam conquered the Holy Land six
years after his death in 638 AD.
7 Druze
The Druze split from Islam in the 11th
century; a central tenet is the “oneness
of God.” About 120,000 live in Israel.
8 Circassian
Fleeing Russian persecution in the
Caucasus, this Sunni Muslim group
arrived in Ottoman Palestine in the late
A sukkah built on a balcony 1800s. They live in two Galilee villages.
Hanukkah
9 9 Ahmadiyya
A revivalist Islamic sect founded in
Late Dec
The Jewish Festival of Lights 1889, who believe that Mirza Ghulam
Ahmad is the Messiah.
commemorates the re-consecration 10 Baha’i
of the Temple in Jerusalem during The Baha’i believe in the unity of all
the Maccabean Revolt (167–160 BC), religions. The sect is based in Haifa,
and lasts eight days. Each night, while its holiest site is in Akko.
families light a hannukiya (candel-
abrum), one candle on the first night,
two on the second, and so on.
Christmas
0
Dec/Jan
Western and Eastern churches
celebrate Christmas at different
times. Each denomination also has
its own traditions of prayer services
and processions. On December 24,
Jerusalem’s Latin Patriarch leads Orthodox church, Jerusalem
a procession to Bethlehem.




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Israel and Petra

Area by Area












Colorful boats moored in
Akko’s Old City harbor













































Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Chapter Openers “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v.1)
064-065_Top_10_Israel.indd 64 19/06/2017 12:58
Date 22nd April 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Jerusalem 66
Around Jerusalem 74
Tel Aviv-Jaffa 80
Galilee and the North 90
Dead Sea and the Negev 96
Petra 102






















































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66 ❯❯ Israel and Petra Area by Area

Jerusalem


This ancient city is sacred to the three great monotheistic faiths.
Crammed with churches, mosques, synagogues, museums,
and archeological sites, the Old City has a
chaotic romance that takes the breath away.
Palestinian-majority East Jerusalem contains
fascinating sights and good nightlife, while the
Jewish city hosts excellent museums, markets,
and restaurants. Jerusalem’s 3,000-year
history has been turbulent, to say the least.
From 1949 to 1967, the city was divided along
the Green Line, with Jordan controlling the
east, including the Old City. The 1967 war saw
Israel take control of the entire city. The mix
of cultures and religions jostling against each
Church of All Nations
mosaic, Mount of Olives other here leaves a lasting impression.
JERUSALEM
H AZEITIM H AR
F I S C H E L F I S C H E L HaTzadik HAT Z ADIK ADIK DER E KH H AR
Shim’on
Shim’on
SHI M
SHI MON ON
HaTzadik
DER E KH
HAT Z
Top 10 Sights SHEIKHSHEIKH H AZEITIM
B A R I L A N
see pp67–9 B A R I L A N YEH EZ K EL YEH EZ K EL S H M U E L H A JARRAHJARRAH YITZHAK HANADIV
YOEL
YOEL
BUKHARIABUKHARIA
Places to Eat
Places to Eat TSYFANYA DEREKH SHKHEM DEREKH SHKHEM AMERICANAMERICAN
YITZHAK HANADIV
see p73 A M OS A M OS YOSEF KARO N AV I DEREKH HAIM BARLEV DEREKH HAIM BARLEV IBN JUBAIR COLONYCOLONY WADL EL -JOZ WADL EL -JOZ EL-MUQDASI EL-MUQDASI
S H M U E L H A
TSYFANYA
City Wall sights
IBN JUBAIR
Sights at the Old M A L K H E I Y I S R ’A E L E L GEULAGEULA SONNENFELD ST GEORGE ST GEORGE
YOSEF KARO N AV I
City Walls see p70 HATURIM HATURIM TAKHEMONI TAKHEMONI BEITBEIT KHALED IBN EL WALID
M A L K H E I Y I S R ’A
SONNENFELD
KHALED IBN EL WALID
Places to Drink
Places to Drink RASHI RASHI YISRAELYISRAEL AKHWAN EL-SAFA

see p72 Mahane DAVID YELLIN MEA SHEARIM MEA SHEARIM Shivtei N A BLUS S T REET N A BLUS S T REET S A L AH ED -D
MEAMEA
Mahane
Shivtei
AKHWAN EL-SAFA
BAB EL-ZAHRA
DAVID YELLIN
Yehuda
Sights in West JAFFA RD Yehuda MAHANEMAHANE SHE’ARIMSHE’ARIM Israel Israel BAB EL-ZAHRA EL-MUQDASI EL-MUQDASI
West Jerusalem
JAFFA RD
Jerusalem see p71 YEHUDAYEHUDA EL-AKHTAL EL-AKHTAL SHMUEL BEN ADAYA
S A L AH ED -D
SHMUEL BEN ADAYA
MEA SHEARIM MEA SHEARIM
IBN EL-AAS IN
HARAV S HMU’EL SALANT
H A NEVIIM
H A NEVIIM STRAUSS STRAUSS HARAV S HMU’EL SALANT HEIL HA HEIL HA IBN EL-AAS IN
KI’AKH
KI’AKH HaDavidka SHIVTEI YISRAEL HANDASA EL-SAWANA
EL-SAWANA
HARAV
HARAV
HaDavidka
SHIVTEI YISRAEL HANDASA
SHMUEL BARUKH
SHMUEL BARUKH
H AN E V I I M V I I M MORASHAMORASHA SULE IMAN MAN
H AN E
AGRIPPAS
AGRIPPAS
S H ILO
S H ILO NACHLA’OTNACHLA’OT Jaffa Center HELENI HAMALKA Damascus SULTA N N SULE I JERICHO ROAD
Jaffa Center
Damascus
SULTA
HELENI HAMALKA
Gate Gate
KING GEORGE
ALIASH
S H D E R OT Y
S H D E R OT Y
ALIASH
YO’EL ZUSMAN ITS H A K R A B I N B I N BETSAL’EL BE N YEHUDA UDA KING GEORGE SHIVTEI YISRAEL SHIVTEI YISRAEL EL WAD EL WAD HA ARAYOT CemeteryCemetery
YO’EL ZUSMAN ITS H A K R A
JERICHO ROAD
YusefiyaYusefiya
JAFFA R O A D
BETSAL’EL
JAFFA R O A D
BE N YEH
SHAAR
SHAAR
HA ARAYOT
JAFFA RD
HILLEL
Wohl RoseWohl Rose ROTHSCHILD ROTHSCHILD SacherSacher HILLEL JAFFA RD VIA VIA OLD CITYOLD CITY
City HallCity Hall
DOLOROSA
SHLOMO HAMELEKH
SHLOMO HAMELEKH DEREKH HAOFEL DEREKH HAOFEL
GardenGarden ParkPark S H D E R O T B E N T S V I S H D E R O T B E N T S V I BEN SIRA DOLOROSA
BEN SIRA
SHMUEL
SHMUEL
HANAGID
HANAGID
KAPLAN
KAPLAN
HaAtsmautHaAtsmaut EL WAD EL WAD
HAKEREN HAKAYEMET L E YISRA’EL ISRA’EL GardenGarden MAMILLAMAMILLA DAVID ST CHAIN ST JERICHO ROAD JERICHO ROAD
CHAIN ST
HAKEREN HAKAYEMET L E Y
HAE MEK
DAVID ST
HAE MEK
WESTERNWESTERN
REHAVIAREHAVIA IBN EZRA IBN EZRA A G R O N A G R O N CARDO CARDO WALL PLAZAWALL PLAZA HASHILOAK H
KING G E ORGE
KING G E ORGE
HASHILOAK H
WEI Z
WEI Z
BEN MA I MON
R A R A
ANTOKOLSKI DISKIN
ANTOKOLSKI DISKIN
MAALE HASHALOM
D E R E K H R U P
D E R E K H R U P P I N P I N
MA’ALOT IR DAVID
A L FAS I
Valley ofValley of A L FAS I M B A N M B A N BEN MA I MON TALBIYATALBIYA KI N G D AVI D ST KI N G D AVI D ST YEMINYEMIN KHATIVAT YERUSHALAYIM KHA
KEREN HAYESOD
KEREN HAYESOD
the Crossthe Cross SHDEROT KHAYIM HAZAZ SHDEROT KHAYIM HAZAZ BALFOUR BALFOUR MOSHEMOSHE MA’ALOT IR DAVID CITY OFCITY OF
HARAV HERZOG DEREKH AZA HEBRON RD HEBRON RD ZIONZION SILWAN
HARAV HERZOG DEREKH AZA
BINYAMIN MI TUDELA
0 meters0 meters 500500 BINYAMIN MI TUDELA SHALOM ALEIKHEM SHALOM ALEIKHEM MOUNTMOUNT DAVIDDAVID
MARCUS JABOTINSKI
SILWAN
DAVID
0 yards0 yards 500500 DAVID MARCUS JABOTINSKI 800 yards800 yards
Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Two-column, 8.5pt grid “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v.1.9)
066-069_Top_10_Israel.indd 66 19/06/2017 12:58
Date 24th June 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Jerusalem ❮❮ 67


(the stones from this period have
recessed frames), but most of the
present-day complex is from the
14th and 16th centuries. Inside, the
Tower of David Museum illustrates
the history of Jerusalem. There are
also great viewspoints (including the
ramparts) and a courtyard garden.
Temple Mount
2
Map Q4
Ramparts and courtyards, the Citadel Known to Muslims as Al-Haram
ash-Sharif (the Noble Sanctuary),
The Citadel
1 the Temple Mount is where
MAP N4 • Jaffa Gate, Old City
Abraham offered his son as a
• Open 9am–4pm Sat–Thu, 9am–2pm sacrifice to God, according to both
Fri • Adm • www.tod.org.il Jewish and Muslim traditions. Site
This imposing fortress, also known of the ancient Jewish Temples, the
as the Tower of David, dominates modern-day Mount is graced by the
Jaffa Gate. King Herod built three Dome of the Rock, Al-Aqsa Mosque,
towers here in the 1st century BC and other Islamic structures.
Jerusalem
JERUSALEM 3
Archaeological Park
F I S C H E L F I S C H E L HaTzadik HAT Z ADIK ADIK DER E KH H AR MAP P5 • Inside Dung Gate • (02) 627
H AZEITIM H AR
Shim’on
Shim’on
SHI M
SHI MON ON
DER E KH
HaTzadik
H AZEITIM
HAT Z
7550 • Open 8am–5pm Sun–Thu, 8am–
B A R I L A N YEH EZ K EL YEH EZ K EL S H M U E L H A SHEIKHSHEIKH YITZHAK HANADIV 2pm Fri • Adm • www.archpark.org.il
B A R I L A N
JARRAHJARRAH
YOEL
YOEL
BUKHARIABUKHARIA
Places to Eat TSYFANYA DEREKH SHKHEM DEREKH SHKHEM AMERICANAMERICAN WADL EL -JOZ WADL EL -JOZ This site reveals Jerusalem’s history,
YITZHAK HANADIV
A M OS A M OS YOSEF KARO N AV I DEREKH HAIM BARLEV DEREKH HAIM BARLEV IBN JUBAIR COLONYCOLONY EL-MUQDASI EL-MUQDASI from the First Temple period to the
S H M U E L H A
TSYFANYA
IBN JUBAIR
City Wall sights M A L K H E I Y I S R ’A E L E L GEULAGEULA SONNENFELD Umayyad era. Start with the displays
HATURIM HATURIM BEITBEIT ST GEORGE ST GEORGE KHALED IBN EL WALID of findings at the Davidson Center.
YOSEF KARO N AV I
M A L K H E I Y I S R ’A
SONNENFELD
KHALED IBN EL WALID
Places to Drink RASHI RASHI TAKHEMONI TAKHEMONI YISRAELYISRAEL AKHWAN EL-SAFA Key remains include the vestiges of

MEAMEA
Mahane
Mahane DAVID YELLIN MEA SHEARIM MEA SHEARIM Shivtei N A BLUS S T REET N A BLUS S T REET S A L AH ED -D Robinson’s Arch, a Herodian shop-
Shivtei
AKHWAN EL-SAFA
BAB EL-ZAHRA
Yehuda
DAVID YELLIN
West Jerusalem JAFFA RD Yehuda MAHANEMAHANE SHE’ARIMSHE’ARIM Israel Israel BAB EL-ZAHRA EL-MUQDASI EL-MUQDASI ping street, a medieval tower, and
JAFFA RD
S A L AH ED -D
YEHUDAYEHUDA HARAV S HMU’EL SALANT IBN EL-AAS IN EL-AKHTAL EL-AKHTAL SHMUEL BEN ADAYA Umayyad palaces. The stairs on the
SHMUEL BEN ADAYA
MEA SHEARIM MEA SHEARIM
IBN EL-AAS IN
HARAV S HMU’EL SALANT
H A NEVIIM
H A NEVIIM STRAUSS STRAUSS HEIL HA HEIL HA south side once led up to the Second
KI’AKH KI’AKH HaDavidka SHIVTEI YISRAEL HANDASA EL-SAWANA Temple. At the bottom of the steps
HARAV
HARAV
EL-SAWANA
HaDavidka
SHIVTEI YISRAEL HANDASA
SHMUEL BARUKH
SHMUEL BARUKH
H AN E V I I M V I I M MORASHAMORASHA SULE IMAN MAN are mikvehs (ritual baths), where
H AN E
AGRIPPAS
AGRIPPAS
S H ILO
S H ILO NACHLA’OTNACHLA’OT Jaffa Center HELENI HAMALKA Damascus SULTA N N SULE I JERICHO ROAD pilgrims first purified themselves.
Jaffa Center
Damascus
SULTA
HELENI HAMALKA
Gate Gate
ALIASH
ALIASH
S H D E R OT Y
S H D E R OT Y
YO’EL ZUSMAN ITS H A K R A B I N B I N BETSAL’EL BE N YEHUDA UDA KING GEORGE KING GEORGE SHIVTEI YISRAEL SHIVTEI YISRAEL EL WAD EL WAD HA ARAYOT CemeteryCemetery Jerusalem Archaeological Park
YO’EL ZUSMAN ITS H A K R A
JERICHO ROAD
YusefiyaYusefiya
BETSAL’EL
JAFFA R O A D
JAFFA R O A D
BE N YEH
SHAAR
SHAAR
HA ARAYOT
JAFFA RD
HILLEL
Wohl RoseWohl Rose ROTHSCHILD ROTHSCHILD SacherSacher HILLEL JAFFA RD VIA VIA OLD CITYOLD CITY
City HallCity Hall
DOLOROSA
SHLOMO HAMELEKH DEREKH HAOFEL DEREKH HAOFEL
SHLOMO HAMELEKH
GardenGarden ParkPark S H D E R O T B E N T S V I S H D E R O T B E N T S V I BEN SIRA DOLOROSA
BEN SIRA
SHMUEL
SHMUEL
HANAGID
HANAGID
KAPLAN
KAPLAN
HaAtsmautHaAtsmaut EL WAD EL WAD
HAKEREN HAKAYEMET L E YISRA’EL ISRA’EL GardenGarden MAMILLAMAMILLA DAVID ST CHAIN ST JERICHO ROAD JERICHO ROAD
HAKEREN HAKAYEMET L E Y
CHAIN ST
HAE MEK
HAE MEK
DAVID ST
WESTERNWESTERN
REHAVIAREHAVIA IBN EZRA IBN EZRA A G R O N A G R O N CARDO CARDO WALL PLAZAWALL PLAZA HASHILOAK H HASHILOAK H
KING G E ORGE
KING G E ORGE
WEI Z
WEI Z
BEN MA I MON
R A R A
ANTOKOLSKI DISKIN
ANTOKOLSKI DISKIN
MAALE HASHALOM
D E R E K H R U P P I N P I N
D E R E K H R U P
MA’ALOT IR DAVID
A L FAS I
Valley ofValley of A L FAS I M B A N M B A N BEN MA I MON TALBIYATALBIYA KI N G D AVI D ST KI N G D AVI D ST YEMINYEMIN KHATIVAT YERUSHALAYIM KHATIVAT YERUSHALA
KEREN HAYESOD
KEREN HAYESOD
the Crossthe Cross SHDEROT KHAYIM HAZAZ SHDEROT KHAYIM HAZAZ BALFOUR BALFOUR MOSHEMOSHE MA’ALOT IR DAVID CITY OFCITY OF
HARAV HERZOG DEREKH AZA HEBRON RD HEBRON RD ZIONZION SILWAN
HARAV HERZOG DEREKH AZA
BINYAMIN MI TUDELA
0 meters0 meters 500500 BINYAMIN MI TUDELA SHALOM ALEIKHEM SHALOM ALEIKHEM MOUNTMOUNT DAVIDDAVID
MARCUS JABOTINSKI
SILWAN
DAVID
0 yards0 yards 500500 DAVID MARCUS JABOTINSKI 800 yards800 yards
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68 ❯❯ Israel and Petra Area by Area

Church of
4 Objects are beautifully
the Holy
presented, with excel-
Sepulchre lent background
This most important information. For a
of churches is peaceful interlude,
tucked away amid wander among the
a warren of shops sculptures of the
in the Christian Billy Rose Art Garden
Quarter. To the right (see pp18–21).
of the door, steps lead
Walls and
up to the Chapels of the 7
Franks. This was the Dome, Church of the Gates
Crusaders’ ceremonial Holy Sepulchre MAP P4 • Ramparts
entrance to Golgotha, Walk: 9am–5pm Sat–Thu
sealed by the Muslims after they (till 4pm winter), 9am–2pm Fri (only
re-took the city in 1187. The last five the southern ramparts are open on
Stations of the Cross are within the Fri); Adm
church. Four are in Golgotha; the last Seven gates, dating mostly from the
is Jesus’ tomb itself (see pp12–13). time of Suleyman the Magnificent,
pierce the city walls. Jaffa Gate is
L-shaped to slow down attackers.
NAVIGATING THE OLD CITY The most imp ressive is Damascus
At Jaffa Gate the Citadel will be on your Gate, with crenellated battlements
right, the Christian Quarter on your left. above and the remains of the original
Straight ahead are the souks leading to gate and plaza below. There are lion
the Muslim Quarter and, eventually, to emblems on each side of Lions’
the Via Dolorosa and Damascus Gate. Gate. The smallest is Dung Gate,
From the Citadel, turn right and you’ll close to the Western Wall; Zion
come to the Armenian Quarter, and,
following the ramparts, Zion Gate, the Gate is bullet-scarred from 1948.
Jewish Quarter, and the Western Wall. The Old City Ramparts Walk affords
astonishing views in all directions.
Western Wall
Mount of Olives
5 8
Worshippers come day and
MAP Q4, R4, R5 • Old City
night to Judaism’s holiest site; non- • Hours vary, but everything is
Jews can also leave prayers here. open Tue and Thu mornings
The huge stone blocks were part of Rising over the eastern edge of
the Temple Mount’s retaining wall. the Old City and famed for its ancient
A tour follows the eerie Western Wall Jewish cemeteries and views of
Tunnel to finally emerge on the Via Temple Mount, this hill is venerated
Dolorosa (see pp16–17). by Christians as the site of
Gethsemane, where Jesus prayed
Israel Museum
6 before his betrayal, and of his
Ascension. Here the 1924
Israel’s national museum,
opened in 1965, houses a magnifi- Basilica of All Nations
cent collection of archaeology, Jewish (Basilica of the Agony)
ritual objects, art, and design. is adorned with










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Date 24th June 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Jerusalem ❮❮ 69


glittering mosaics, while the Church VIA DOLOROSA
of Mary Magdalene (1888) has seven
onion-shaped domes. Hidden among
the trees are other churches linked St. Anne’s
to the last events of Jesus’ life. Austrian Church
Hospice II
Old City Souks
9 VII III IV I Lions’
Gate
MAP P4
The souks are the most instantly VIII IX VI V Abu Shukri
captivating part of the city. Leading Baidun
down from Jaffa Gate, David Street Church of the
is lined with souvenirs shops selling Holy Sepulchre
everything from Israeli army caps MORNING
and Palestinian kaffiyeh to Nativity
scenes. A metal staircase leads to Millions believe that the Via
the rooftops. David Street continues Dolorosa (Way of Sorrows) was
into Chain Street, where stalls merge the last path Jesus walked,
into fabulous Mamluk buildings. on the way to his crucifixion.
From the spot at which he was
con demned to the place where
he was crucified, Stations of the
Cross mark each event. Start
at Lions’ Gate and check out the
acoustics in St. Anne’s Church.
A little way ahead is the First
Station, outside Al-Omariyya Boys
School. Opposite, the Monastery
of the Flagellation is the Second
Station. Keep walking, under
the Ecce Homo Arch, to the
T-junction with Al-Wad Street.
The Third Station is on your left,
and to the right is the Austrian
Colorful stalls in the Old City Souks Hospice café (see p72). Stop here
for a coffee. The Fourth Station
Mount Zion
0 is at the Armenian Church. Have
lunch at Abu Shukri (see p57),
MAP N5 • Dormition Abbey:
open 9am–noon & 12:30–5:30pm slightly farther on to the left.
Mon–Sat, 10:30–11:45am & 12:15– AFTERNOON
5:30pm Sun • Hall of the Last Supper:
open 9am–5pm Turn right and find the Fifth
This ancient site has significant Station of the Cross and the
biblical associations. A Crusader- ascent to Golgotha. Shortly after
era hall is believed to be the site of the Sixth Station, the Baidun
Christ’s Last Supper, with the Tomb shops (28 Via Dolorosa, (02) 626
1469) are worth a visit. The
of David located directly below. Via Dolorosa meets souk Khan
Dormition Abbey, with its conical al-Zeit, where you’ll find the
dome and tall bell tower, is vene- Seventh Station. A short way up
rated as the place where the Virgin El-Khankah Street is the Eighth.
Mary fell into “eternal sleep.” Return to Al-Zeit, turn right and
right again, and con tinue on to
Mount Zion the doorway of the Ethiopian
Monastery (see p12), where a
Roman pillar marks the Ninth
Station. Steps lead through the
chapel to the Parvis in front of
the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
The final five Stations are inside.
See map on pp66–7


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70 ❯❯ Israel and Petra Area by Area

Sights at the Old City Walls


Garden Tomb
Muristan
1 6
MAP P4
MAP P3 • Conrad Schick St
Originally the site of an 8th-century Some believe this – and not the
pilgrim hospice, Muristan has one of Church of the Holy Sepulchre –
city’s oldest churches, St. John the to be the site of Jesus’ crucifixion.
Baptist, and close by, the Lutheran The garden is an island of serenity.
Church of the Redeemer, whose
Rockefeller Museum
bell tower offers amazing views. 7
MAP Q3 • 27 Sultan
The Cardo
2 Suleiman St • (02) 628 2251
Built in the 1930s and managed by
MAP P4
In Byzantine times, this was the city’s the Israel Museum, this archeology
main thoroughfare. Excavations and museum has Crusader-era marble
reconstructions have turned it into lintels from the Church of the Holy
an exclusive shopping arcade. Sepulchre, 8th-century beams from
Al-Aqsa, and stucco figurines from
Lady Tunshuq’s Palace
3 Hisham’s Palace in Jericho (see p76).
MAP P4 • El-Takiya St
Zedekiah’s Cave
The Mamluks’ distinctive ablaq 8
technique – using bands of alternate MAP P3 • (02) 627 7550
colored stone – can be seen here. Zedekiah is said to have escaped
The three soaring door ways are from the Babylonians in 586 BC
inlaid with marble, and there is via this massive cave. Herod also
stalactite decoration on the windows. quarried it for building materials.
Hurva Square
City of David
4 9
MAP P5
MAP Q5 • Maalot Ir David
Believed by archeologists to be the This square is dominated by
location of King David’s capital, this the rebuilt Neo-Byzantine Hurva
site has turned up finds that include Synagogue. An adjacent minaret is
houses from as far back as the 10th all that remains of the 14th-century
century BC. Don’t miss the tour of Mosque of Sidna Omar.
Hezekiah’s Tunnel (see p48). Valley of Jehoshaphat
Convent of the Sisters
5 0
MAP Q4
of Zion
This valley, where it is believed that the
MAP P3 • Via Dolorosa dead will be resurrected on the Day of
Situated below Ecce Homo Arch, this Judgment, contains the so-called Tomb
convent contains the Struthion Pool of Zechariah, with a pyramidal roof, and
and the flagstone “lithostratos.” the conically roofed Absalom’s Tomb.
Valley of Jehoshaphat








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Size 100mm x 191mm

Jerusalem ❮❮ 71

Sights in West Jerusalem


Yemin Moshe
1
MAP N5
The highlight of this small area of
delightfully renovated flower-filled
lanes is Mishkenot Shaananim,
which was built in the 1850s as a
communal housing block but now
functions as an artists’ guesthouse.
Mahane Yehuda and
2
Nachla’ot
MAP L2 & L3 • Off Agrippas St
For over 100 years Mahane Yehuda
has been a buzzing market; now
its restaurant scene and nightlife
is burgeoning too – bars and cafés
replace the market stalls at night.
Nearby, the alleys of Nachla’ot are
worth exploring.
Nachalat Shiv’a
3 Holy Trinity Church, Russian Compound
MAP M3
Russian Compound
This old neighborhood has great 7
bars and restaurants, plus arty MAP M3
shops along its main alleyway. To the Built for Russian pilgrims in the
north lie Zion Square and Ben Yehuda 1860s, this enclosure’s huge edifices
Street – full of cafés and college kids. include Sergei’s Courtyard, the
Church of the Holy Trinity, and a
U. Nahon Museum of
4 half-quarried monolithic column.
Italian Jewish Art
Mea She’arim
MAP M3 • 27 Hillel St • (02) 624 1610 8
This museum contains a synagogue MAP M2
from the Veneto, complete with lavish This enclave of ultra-Orthodox Jews,
gilded Baroque stucco. Also on display planned by German architect Conrad
are silver Torah finials and illuminated Schick (1822–1901), resembles an
manuscripts, and an ancient wooden 18th-century Polish ghetto. Ashkenazi
Ark from Mantua (1543). food, black suits, and children abound.
Dress modestly when visiting.
Mamilla
5 Ethiopia Street
MAP M4
The 1949–67 armistice line ran 9
MAP M3
between Mamilla and the walls of the This charming lane houses the
Old City. Some of the original 19th- circular Ethiopian church, designed
century buildings have been incorpo- by Conrad Schick, and a 19th-
rated into an upscale shopping mall. century Arab mansion at No. 6a.
German Colony
Givat Ram
6 0
Emek Refaim St
MAP J4
This hilltop neighborhood is home to Along this fashionable street, cafés,
the Knesset, the Supreme Court, and bars, and shops occupy 19th-century
government ministries, as well as the Templer buildings and old Arab
Israel and Bible Lands museums, and houses. A farmers’ and craft market
a campus of the Hebrew University. is held on Fridays.
See map on pp66–7
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72 ❯❯ Israel and Petra Area by Area

Places to Drink


Birman
Jerusalem Hotel
1 5
MAP M3 • 8 Dorot Rishonim,
MAP N2 • Nablus Rd, East
Jerusalem • (02) 628 3282 • Closed West Jerusalem • (02) 623 6115
10:30am–12:30pm • Open 7pm–2am daily
Enjoy draught Taybeh in this crowded Birman offers live music with an
vine-covered courtyard. Western emphasis on jazz, along with a well-
and Middle Eastern food is served. stocked bar and fusion bar food.
Austrian Hospice
Borderline
2 6
MAP P1 • 13 Shimon HaTzadik
MAP P4 • 37 Via Dolorosa,
Old City • (02) 626 5800 • Open St, East Jerusalem • (02) 532 8342
10am–10pm • Open noon–2am daily
This garden café is a joy. A limited This expat haunt has a popular
drinks menu keeps things simple. garden patio and is open till late.
Casino de Paris
7
MAP L2 • 3 Mahane
Yeduda St, West Jerusalem
• (02) 650 4235 • Open noon–
late
Well hidden in the Georgian
Market, this bar is named
after a Mandate-era British
officers’ club. Great tapas.
Bolinat
8
MAP M3 • 6 Dorot
Rishonim, just off Zion Sq,
West Jerusalem • (02) 624
Café at the Austrian Hospice 9733 • Open 24 hours
In the heart of the New City,
Barood
3 serves light Italian-style salads and
this café-bar-restaurant
MAP M3 • Feingold Courtyard,
31 Jaffa Rd, West Jerusalem • (02) 625 sandwiches. Hosts event nights and
9081 • Open 12:30pm–1am Mon–Sat is popular with a young crowd.
This atmospheric bar-restaurant in
American Colony
a pretty courtyard is a great spot for 9
a beer, and also serves Jerusalem- MAP P1 • 1 Louis Vincent St,
style Sephardic dishes. Superb off Nablus Rd, East Jerusalem • (02)
selection of spirits and liqueurs, too. 627 9777 • Cellar Bar opens 6pm
Mingle with journalists, intellectuals,
Mamilla Hotel
4 and artists over a drink here. The
cave-like Cellar Bar is open all year.
MAP M5 • 11 King Solomon St,
West Jerusalem • (02) 548 2222
Notre Dame Center
• Rooftop: open 6pm–midnight Sun– 0
Thu, noon–11pm Fri & Sat; Mirror Bar: MAP N4 • 3 HaTsanhanim,
open 8pm–late Sun–Thu, 9:30pm– opposite New Gate, West Jerusalem
late Sat • (02) 627 9177 • Open 5pm–1am
The modern rooftop bar at the Mon–Thu, noon–1am Fri–Sun
Mamilla Hotel has plush, lounge- Indulge in a glass of wine and a
style seating. The Mirror Bar boasts platter of Continental cheese while
trendy lighting, a cocktail bar, and admiring the splendid views from
excellent DJs. the center’s rooftop restaurant.
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Jerusalem ❮❮ 73

Places to Eat


Rooftop
1 PRICE CATEGORIES
MAP N4 • 1 King Solomon St,
Mamilla, West Jerusalem • (02) 548 For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
223 • Closed lunch Sun–Thu • $$$ taxes, and extra charges.
This Italian-style brasserie offers $ under $25 $$ $25–55 $$$ over $55
panoramic Old City views alongside
meat, fish, pasta, and salad dishes
Machneyuda
made with top-quality ingredients. 5
MAP K2 • 10 Beit Yaakov,
Tmol Shilshom
2 Mahane Yehuda • (02) 533 3442 • $$
Fresh meat, fish, and vegetarian
MAP M3 • 5 Yoel Moshe
Salomon St • (02) 623 2758 • Open dishes are complemented by a
8:30am–11:30pm Sun–Thu, to 2:30pm great cocktail and wine list.
Fri, 8–11:30pm Sat • $$
Satya
Dine on tasty vegetarian and fish 6
dishes, surrounded by books. MAP M5 • 36 Keren HaYesod St,
Situated in a 19th-century stone Rehavia, West Jerusalem • (02) 650
house, tucked away off a courtyard. 6808 • Closed lunch Sun–Fri • $$$
Intimate, stylish restaurant serving
Arabesque
3 Mediterranean fish, seafood, and
meat sourced from local markets.
MAP P1 • American Colony
Hotel, 1 Louis Vincent St, East
Askadinya
Jerusalem • (02) 627 9777 • Open 7
11:30am–6pm & 7–10:30pm • $$$ MAP P1 • 11 Shimon HaTzadik
The Middle Eastern and international St, Sheikh Jarrah, East Jerusalem
menu is good, but it is the atmo- • (02) 532 4590 • Open 24 hours • $$$
sphere that draws guests. Set within an atmospheric Ottoman
mansion, Askadinya offers Middle
Eastern and international dishes.
Sima
8
MAP L2 • 82 Agrippas St, West
Jerusalem • (02) 623 3002 • Closed
Fri eve, Sat until sunset • $$
Jerusalem’s best-known Middle
Eastern grill and steakhouse.
Start with the kubbeh soups.
Mona
9
MAP L4 • 12 Schmuel HaNagid
St, West Jerusalem • (02) 622 2283
• Closed lunch Sun–Thu • $$$
High-quality Mediterranean seafood,
Gracious interiors of Arabesque meat, and vegetarian dishes.
Anna Italian Cafe
The Eucalyptus
4 0
MAP N5 • 14 Khativat
MAP M3 • 10 HaRav Agan St,
Yerushalayim St, Hutzot HaYotzer, West Jerusalem • (02) 543 4144
West Jerusalem • (02) 624 4331 • Close Fri eve, Sat until sunset • $$
• Closed lunch, Fri • $$$ Modern Italian, from handmade pasta
Set in a beautiful stone courtyard, to pizza and fish, served under vaulted
this is famed for food inspired by ceilings or on the patio of the historic
scenes from the Bible. Ticho House. Vegetarian dishes too.
See map on pp66–7
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74 ❯❯ Israel and Petra Area by Area

Around Jerusalem


Several full- or half-day excursions can
be made from Jerusalem. Destinations
to the west are in Israeli territory; those to
the north, east, and south are in the West
Bank. Travel between the two is relatively
simple. Remote monastic communities
located in stunning settings in the southern
Judaean Hills are worth a visit, while the
northern hills are speckled with pale stone
walls and olive orchards. Here, Nablus
exudes charm, while Ramallah is a lively
city for nightlife. One of Israel’s most
impressive vistas is to be found at
Interior of the Ibrahimi Herodion, near Bethlehem, and the oasis
Mosque, Hebron city of Jericho has a sultry vibe all its own.
AROUND JERUSALEM
Nablus
55
Top 10 Sights
see pp75–7 Imatin Beit Furik 90 Yarden (Jordan River)
Places to Eat
see p79 Yanun
Holy Places Around Qabalan
Jerusalem see p78 Salfit
Majdal
60
Sinjil Bani Fadel
6
Rantis
40
Ben Gurion Airport WEST BANK
Kharbata J e r i c h o P l a i n
44
1 Beitin 90
Ramla
Modi’in-
Maccabim-Re’ut Ramallah
Mukhmas
3 Wadi Qelt Jericho
Abu Ghosh
44
1 1
Tal Shakhar Ein Rafa Jerusalem
38 Ein Kerem
Tirosh
Beit Kalya'
Shemesh Bethlehem 90
Beit Sahour
Roglit Herodion
38
Tuqu
Kharas Efrat D ead
35 Beit Guvrin- S ea
Maresha National Park
Halhul Judaean
Hebron Hills 0 kilometers 10
Bani Na'im 90
60 0 miles 10
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Size 100mm x 191mm

Around Jerusalem ❮❮ 75

Abu Ghosh
1
MAP F4 • 10 miles (16 km)
W of Jerusalem • Superbus 185
• Crusader Church: open 8:30–11am
& 2:30–7pm Mon–Wed, Fri, & Sun;
Notre Dame de l’Arche de l’Alliance:
open 8:30–11:30am & 2:30–5pm
The Crusaders believed this now
Israeli-Arab village to be Emmaus,
where Christ appeared after his
resurrection, and so the Knights
Hospitallers built a Romanesque
church here in the 12th century – it
still stands, almost unchanged. On
top of the hill is the Church of Notre
Dame de l’Arche de l’Alliance, built
in 1924 over a Byzantine church.
Russian Monastery, Ein Kerem
Beit Guvrin-Maresha
2 Ein Kerem
National Park
MAP F4 • 4 miles (7 km) W of
MAP G3 • Off Route 35, 33 miles 3
AROUND JERUSALEM (53 km) SW of Jerusalem • www. Jerusalem • Light Rail, then Egged
parks.org.il bus 28 from Har Herzl
This undulating park is riddled with Tradition holds that Ein Kerem
a network of caves. Quarried since was the home of John the Baptist.
Phoenician times, it has small sur- Churches commemorating his life
face holes revealing spiral staircases, dot the village, the most striking
water cisterns, burial chambers, and being the Russian Monastery with
columbaria. The ancient Judaean its golden onion domes. Artisans’
city of Tel Maresha is little more than studios are sprinkled around the
a mound, but the burial caves of its village and the surrounding hills
Sidonian citizens bear painted friezes make for pleasant walking. This is
depicting hunters and musicians. the perfect place to visit on Shabbat,
The apse of the Crusader Church of when the churches remain open.
St. Anne is striking, while the Bell
Hebron
Caves are carved with Christian and 4
Arabic inscriptions. The remains of a MAP G4 • 25 miles (40 km) S of
Roman amphitheater can be seen Jerusalem, West Bank • Egged bus 160
opposite the park entrance. Political tension is ever present
in this populous town,
divided between an Arab
majority and hard core
Jewish settlers. Most
areas are controlled by
the Palestinian Authority
and international peace-
keepers; others are
patrolled by the Israeli
military. The Cave of
Machpelah/Ibrahimi
Mosque is split between
the two reli gions (see
p78). The Arab markets
and old souk offer respite
and a chance to buy the
Caves, Beit Guvrin-Maresha National Park famed local glassware.






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76 ❯❯ Israel and Petra Area by Area

Jericho
5
MAP F5 • 25 miles (40 km) E of
Jerusalem, West Bank • Arab bus 36
to Al-Azariyya, then service taxi • Tel
Jericho and Hisham’s Palace: open
8am–6pm Sat–Thu, 8am–5pm Fri
(closes 1 hour earlier in winter) • Adm
Settled 10,000 years ago, Jericho is
reputedly the world’s oldest contin-
uously inhabited city. The Book of
Joshua describes how the Israelites
brought down Jericho’s walls with a
trumpet blast, and excavations at Tel
Jericho have uncovered the remains
of 7,000-year-old walls and a stone
tower. A cable car connects the Tel Cable cars at the ancient city of Jericho
to the Monastery of the Temptation
Ramallah
on the cliff face (see p78). Hisham’s 7
Palace, built in 724, lies in ruins, MAP F4 • 10 miles (16 km)
but retains its mosaic floors. N of Jerusalem, West Bank • Arab
bus 18 • Tourist Information Center:
Bethlehem
6 Issa Ziadeh St; (02) 294 5555 ext 123;
Open 9am–5pm Sat–Thu
Revered as the birthplace of
Jesus, the imposing Church of the This city at the heart of Palestine
Nativity in Manger Square is the has tons of atmosphere. Al-Manarah
most important sight in Bethlehem. Square is the commercial center,
There is also an attractive Franciscan chock-full of vendors, shoppers,
church and a Greek Orthodox site and noise. The Old City retains its
with Byzantine remains. The town Ottoman charm, and the mausoleum
center, with its narrow lanes, exudes of Yasser Arafat in Al-Bireh is worth
an old-world charm (see pp26–7). a visit. Weina Ramallah Festival, held
in July, is a window into Palestinian
culture. Ramallah is also known for
its nightspots.
Nablus
8
MAP E4 • N of Jerusalem,
West Bank • Arab bus 18 to Ramallah,
then service taxi
A maze of souks, cobbled streets,
and crumbling mansions, Nablus is
an antidote to modern life. Believed
by some Jews to be the site of
Joseph’s Tomb, the area remains
Church of the Nativity, Bethlehem a political hot spot. An Ottoman
clock tower, Turkish hammams, and
Roman amphitheaters are dotted
TRAVELING IN THE WEST BANK around town. Nearby Mount Gerizim
Although tourists are almost never a is home to the Samaritans (see p63).
target, it is wise to stay informed about
Wadi Qelt
the security situation. Organised tours 9
are still available, but you should take MAP F5 • West Bank, signed
care when traveling anywhere in the off Route 1
West Bank and avoid all large gatherings. This stunning 17-mile (27-km) ravine
Due to restrictions on travel, consular
assistance may be limited in this area. between Jerusalem and Jericho has
a path along its full length, lined with


Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
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Around Jerusalem ❮❮ 77


A WALK IN EIN KEREM
Har Herzl tram stop
Notre Dame (1.5 miles)
de Sion
Church of
St. John
the Baptist
Mala Bar
Karma
Yitzhak Greenfield’s
Studio
Mary’s Spring
Church of
the Visitation
AFTERNOON
Cable cars at the ancient city of Jericho After lunch, take the Light Rail to
Har Herzl. Disembark, follow the
palm trees. A Herodian aqueduct sign to Yad Vashem down a side
also follows the course of the road, then turn immediately left
into the forest, where a stony
stream. The hike passes St. George’s track descends through a
Monastery (see p78) and continues to wooded valley. This agreeable
Jericho. The Roman road along the walk finishes less than 30
top of the gorge is accessible by car. minutes later in Ein Kerem, at
the rear of the Catholic Church
Herodion
0 of St. John the Baptist (see p78).
The church opens at 2:30pm, so
MAP F4 • Route 356, 7 miles
(11 km) SE of Bethlehem, West Bank if you’re early, stop to have coffee
• Taxi from Bethlehem • Open and snack at one of several hole-
in-the-wall cafés.
summer: 8am–5pm Sat–Thu, 8am–
3pm Fri; winter: 8am–4pm Sat–Thu After visiting the church, cross
This magnificent hilltop palace is the main road and follow the sign
to Mary’s Spring, which is topped
named after Herod the Great, and by a quaint mosque. From here,
ruins of bathhouses, towers, and steps ascend to the right, to the
mosaics from his time are dotted Church of the Visitation (see p78).
around the site, along with his tomb. Admire the split-level church and
The cone-shaped summit affords great vista, and then retrace your
amazing views, and below lie pools steps. Before the main road, turn
and gardens from Herod’s day, plus left and follow the sign to painter
churches added by Yitzhak Greenfield’s studio to see
his Jerusalem-inspired work.
Byzantine rulers. Continue to the Notre Dame
de Sion Guesthouse (closed
Reconstructed on Sunday) and ring the bell to
tomb, enter. You can visit the church
Herodion and cemetery, and sit a while in
the peaceful garden, which has
wonderful views across the
valley to the golden domes of
the Russian Monastery. The lane
loops back to the main road.
There is no shortage of res tau-
rants and café-bars to choose
from, but a failsafe option for
dining is Karma (see p79), which
has plenty of window seating.
Afterwards, enjoy a beer at Mala
Bar (see p79), which outdoor
heating on chilly evenings.
See map on p74

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78 ❯❯ Israel and Petra Area by Area

Holy Places Around Jerusalem


Monastery of
St. George’s Monastery
1 5
St. Gerasimos
MAP F5 • Off Route 1, 17 miles
MAP F5 • Route 90, SE of Jericho (27 km) NE of Jerusalem, Judean Hills
This complex was founded by This 5th-century Greek monastery
St. Gerasimos in the 5th century. is hewn into the side of a stunning
Nearby, Qasr al-Yehud may have gorge, Wadi Qelt.
been where John baptized Jesus. Nebi Musa
Bethany
2 6
MAP F5 • Off Route 1, 6 miles
MAP R5 • Al-Azariyya village,
(10 km) S of Jericho, Judean Hills
E of Jerusalem Sultan Baybars built a shrine to Moses
This tranquil cluster of buildings here in 1269. The cenotaph is now
marks where Jesus is believed revered by Muslims as Moses’ tomb.
to have raised Lazarus from the
Church of the Visitation
dead. There’s a Franciscan church, 7
Lazarus’ Tomb, a silver-domed MAP F4 • Ein Kerem
Greek church, and a mosque here. Designed by the Franciscan monk
Antonio Barluzzi, this two-tiered
Church of St. John
3 church commemorates Mary’s visit
the Baptist
to the mother of John the Baptist.
MAP F4 • Ein Kerem
Monastery of
This 17th-century Franciscan church 8
was built over the ruins of Byzantine the Temptation
and Crusader structures. Steps lead MAP F5 • 1 mile (2 km) N of Tel Jericho
down to the Grotto of St. John. This cliffside Greek monastery was
built around the grotto where the
Church of the Nativity
4 Devil is said to have tempted Jesus.
The traditional site of Jesus’
Cave of the Patriarchs
birth has been commemorated by 9
a church since the early 3rd century. MAP G4 • Hebron, 25 miles
Deep inside the church, the precise (40 km) S of Jerusalem
spot is marked by a 14-pointed silver Revered by Jews as the Cave of
star (see p26). Machpelah and by Muslims as the
Ibrahimi Mosque, this
perennially tense Herodian
complex – with a mosque
and a synagogue – is the
second holiest Holy Land
site for both religions.
Mar Saba
0
Monastery
MAP F5 • Off Route 398,
11 miles (17 km) E of
Bethlehem, Judean Hills
This remote desert retreat
was founded in AD 482 by
St. Saba, whose remains
are said to be inside the
church. Women cannot
enter the monastery.
Church of the Nativity
078-079_Top_10_Israel.indd 78 19/06/2017 12:58

Around Jerusalem ❮❮ 79

Holy Places Around Jerusalem Places to Eat


Ziryab, Ramallah
6
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one with half MAP F4 • Salah Building,
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), Rakob (Main) St • (02) 295 9093
taxes, and extra charges • Open 11am–late daily • $$
A spacious café with tasty Eastern
$ under $25 $$ $25–55 $$$ over $55
and Western food, as well as alcohol.
Azure, Ramallah
Riwaq Restaurant and
1 7
Coffee Shop, Bethlehem
MAP F4 • 35 al-Ma’ahed St
MAP F4 • Jerusalem–Hebron Rd • (02) 295 7850 • Open 11am–
• (02) 276 6777 • Open 8am–11pm midnight daily • $$
daily • $$ This old converted villa has a smart
Located in the atmospheric Jacir restaurant, a large bar, and a popular
Palace hotel, Riwaq offers Levantine garden patio. The burgers are legend­
specialties, salads, and cocktails. ary; the menu also includes Arab
and Asian food. Cocktails available.
Dar al-Balad, Bethlehem
2
MAP F4 • Main St, Beit Sahour
• (02) 274 4007 • Open 10am–11pm
• $
Set in a restored old house in the
center of Beit Sahour, Dar al­Balad
serves Palestinian dishes and salads.
Karma, Ein Kerem
3
MAP F4 • 74 Ein Kerem St, Ein
Kerem • (02) 643 6643 • Open 10am–
midnight Sun–Wed, 10am–1am Thu–
Sat • $$
The extensive menu at this split­level Seating at Azure’s bar area
place includes salad, pizza, pasta,
Lebanese Restaurant,
and steak in generous portions. 8
Abu Ghosh
Mala Bar, Ein Kerem
4 MAP F4 • 88 HaShalom St, Abu
MAP F4 • 76 Ein Kerem St, Ein
Ghosh • (02) 570 2397 • Open 8am–
Kerem • (02) 642 2120 • Open 6pm– 11pm • $
late Sun–Thu, noon–late Fri, 10am– Heaven for hummus­lovers. Main
late Sat • $$$ dishes include Middle Eastern grills.
Salads, sandwiches, pasta, and
Majda, Ein Rafa
meat dishes are served at this cute 9
candlelit restaurant­bar, which has MAP F4 • Ein Rafa, off Route 1,
tables along the village’s main street. opposite Abu Ghosh • (02) 579 7108
There are heaters in winter and a • Open 6–11pm Thu, 9am–9pm Fri,
cozy indoor space to huddle up in. 10am–4pm Sat • $$
Run by an Arab­Jewish couple,
Pronto’s Resto-Café,
5 Majda mixes Levantine cooking
Ramallah
with New Israeli cuisine.
MAP F4 • Al-Rahsheed St • (02) 298
Afteem, Bethlehem
7312 • Open 8am–midnight • $$ 0
Cozy trattoria with the best pizza in MAP F4 • Manger Sq
town. Artifacts decorate the warm­ • Open 8am–late Mon–Sat • $
colored walls, and the front patio is Near the Church of the Nativity, this
Church of the Nativity a great spot for a draft Taybeh. is fabulous for falafel and hummus.
See map on p74
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80 ❯❯ Israel and Petra Area by Area

Tel Aviv-Jaffa


Founded in 1909 by 66 families, Tel Aviv (Hill
of the Spring) has come far in little over a
century. The modern face of Israel, the city is
a center for contemporary thought, cuisine,
nightlife, and culture. Designed as a garden
city in 1925, it is characterized by lovely parks,
palm trees, and wide boulevards. Countless
cafés and restaurant-bars line its streets, and
Greek image, Jaffa the Mediterranean beach adds to the atmosphere.
Visitor Centre From the 1930s to the 1950s, Jewish architects
fleeing Germany designed 4,000 Bauhaus buildings here, leading
UNESCO to declare the “White City” a World Heritage Site in 2003.
TEL AVIV-JAFFA
1 mile
1 mile BEN GURION 2 miles
2 miles
Top 10 Sights BEN YEHUDA BEN YEHUDA BLOCH BLOCH
BEN GURION
see pp81–3 HAYARKON DIZENGOFF DIZENGOFF G O R D O N
RABIN
Places to Eat Frishman SAMUEL HAYARKO R E IN ES R E IN ES G O R D O N SQUARE SDEROT DAVID HAMELTECH N A M I R N A M I R
SQUARE
RABIN SDEROT DAVID HAMELTECH
FRISHMAN
FRISHMAN
see p87 Frishman HERBERT SAMUELN FRISHMAN FRISHMAN Z E IT LI N
Z E IT LI N
Beach Beach T
Bauhaus Buildings MANE MANE OV
HAMELEKH GEORGE
see p84 HERBER DUBN DUBNOV
S H A U L H A M E L E K H
DERECH MENACHEM BEGIN
Trumpeldor
Bars and Nightlife Trumpeldor HAMELEKH GEORGE S D E R O T H E N S D E R O T H E N S H A U L H A M E L E K H
Spots see p86 Beach Beach BEN YEHUDA BEN YEHUDA BOGRASHOV I B N G A B I R O L I B N G A B I R O L
BOGRASHOV
Shopping Areas P I NS KER P I NS KER DUBNOV
Jerusalem
Hashalom
see p85 Jerusalem Beach DIZENGOFF DUBNOV DERECH MENACHEM BEGIN Hashalom
Beach
DIZENGOFF
Gan
K APLAN
Gan Meir G E BEN TSIYON K APLAN
H AM EL EK H GE O R G E
Meir
SDEROT
SDEROT
A L LENBY
A L LENBY
BEN TSIYON
Ge’ula Ge’ula LASKO V LASKO V
Beach Beach H AKO S H E V I M H AKO S H E V I M H AM EL EK H GE O R HAHASHMONA'IM
HAHASHMONA'IM
HA AARBA
Dolphinarium H ER BER T S AM U EL H ER BER T S AM U EL H AYA R K O N H AYA R K O N HA AARBA
Dolphinarium
Beach Beach HAHASHMONA'IM
Medit err anean
HAHASHMONA'IM
Medit err anean S H E I N K I N AHAD HAAM AHAD HAAM C A R L E B A C H C A R L E B A C H MONTEFIORE YIGAL ALON YIGAL ALON
YEHUDA HALEVI
MONTEFIORE
S H E I N K I N
A Y A L O N H
S ea
DERECH MENACHEM BEGIN
DERECH MENACHEM BEGIN
S ea BALFOUR YEHUDA HALEVI A Y A L O N H I G H W A Y
HACARMEL
BALFOUR
MAZEH
HaKovshim HACARMEL A L L E N B Y A L L E N B Y MAZEH RO THSCHILD RO THSCHILD L I NCO L N Y ITSHAK SADEH
HaKovshim
L I NCO L N
AHAD HAAM
MAZEH
Charles NAHALAT BINYAMIN AHAD HAAM MAZEH Y ITSHAK SADEH
Charles N
Clore Clore M A H A MER E D H A MER E D PINES YITSHAK SADEH
YITSHAK SADEH
ROTHSCHILD
NAHALAT BINYAMIN
Park Park F K A U F M A N PINES ROTHSCHILD A Y A L O N H I G H W AY I G H W A Y
K A U SHABAZI HAMASGER HAMASGER
SHABAZI
NEVE
GAN
Alma Alma NEVE GAN Y I G AL ALON Y I G AL ALON
YEHUDA HALEVI
HAHASHMAL
Beach Beach YEHUDA HALEVI HAHASHMAL HARAKKEVET
TZEDEK
Galit
TZEDEK SHLUSH SHLUSH PINES PINES J A F FA A Y A L O N H I G H W AY Galit
Park
J A F FA
Park
HARAKKEVET
J A F FA
J A F FA HA SHOMRON LA GUARDIA
HA SHOMRON
R O S H P I N A
LA GUARDIA
SD E ROT HAR TS IYON
GOLDMAN GOLDMAN E I L A T E I L A T HE R TSE L HE R TSE L H A A L I YA H A A L I YA L E V I N S KI R O S H P I N A LE VAN DAR H A M A S G ER MAR GO L IN
MAR GO L IN
LE VAN DA
L E V I N S KI
YIGAL A LO N
FLORENTINE
D. RAZIEL ELI FE LE T ELI FE LE T FLORENTINE SD E ROT HAR TS IYON LEVINSKI H A M A S G E MORDEHAI ANILEVICH MORDEHAI ANILEVICH YIGAL A LO N HAHIL AVE
D. RAZIEL
HAHIL AVE
LEVINSKI
JAFFA
JAFFA Central
Central
S H L O M O
S H L O M O
Bus Station
KEDUMIM YERUSHALAYIM YERUSHALAYIM S H L O M O S H L O M O Bus Station
KEDUMIM
SQUARE
SQUARE SHLOMO DER ECH HAHAGANA
YEFET YEFET KIBBUTZ GALUYOT S C H OC K E N S C H OC K E N MESILAT YESHARIM MESILAT YESHARIM HaHaganah 0 meters 600 600
DER ECH HAHAGANA
SHLOMO
HaHaganah
0 meters
Bloomfield
MERAGUSA
YEHUDA YEHUDA OLEI ZION Bloomfield Garden SHAPIRA ISRAEL M ISALANT ISRAEL M ISALANT 0 yards 600 600
MERAGUSA
Groningen
Stadium Groningen
Stadium
KIBBUTZ GALUYOT
SHAPIRA
0 yards
Garden
OLEI ZION
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Size 100mm x 191mm

Tel Aviv-Jaffa ❮❮ 81

Beachfront Promenade
Ramat Aviv
1 2
MAP X1 • Palmach Museum:
MAP U2
10 Chaim Levanon; (03) 643 6393; call This is the youthful soul of Tel Aviv-
ahead; www.palmach.org.il Jaffa. Stretching along the city’s
An upmarket suburb, Ramat Aviv is edge, the beaches are popular all
home to Tel Aviv University, whose year long, especially in summer,
grounds house the excellent Beit when people come to sunbathe and
HaTfutsot (Museum of the Jewish play matkot (see p50). Weekends are
People) (see p41). Among other liveliest, especially after dark when
interesting museums along the the beachfront bars start buzzing.
southern edge are the Eretz Israel The southern end has the best surf-
Museum and the Yitzhak Rabin ing, but swimmers should take note
Center (see p41). Between them sits of the flags – the currents are strong.
the Palmach Museum, telling the
story of the Jewish guerilla fighters
who took on the British and the
Arabs after World War II.
TEL AVIV-JAFFA
1 mile
1 mile BEN YEHUDA BEN YEHUDA BEN GURION BLOCH BLOCH 2 miles
2 miles
BEN GURION
Frishman SAMUEL HAYARKO HAYARKON DIZENGOFF DIZENGOFF R E IN ES R E IN ES G O R D O N RABIN RABIN SDEROT DAVID HAMELTECH N A M I R N A M I R
G O R D O N
SQUARE
SDEROT DAVID HAMELTECH
FRISHMAN
FRISHMAN
Frishman HERBERT SAMUELN FRISHMAN FRISHMAN SQUARE Z E IT LI N
Z E IT LI N
Beach Beach T MANE OV
HERBER MANE DUBN DUBNOV
HAMELEKH GEORGE
S H A U L H A M E L E K H
DERECH MENACHEM BEGIN
Trumpeldor
Trumpeldor HAMELEKH GEORGE S D E R O T H E N S D E R O T H E N S H A U L H A M E L E K H Yemenite Quarter’s HaCarmel Market
Beach Beach BEN YEHUDA BEN YEHUDA BOGRASHOV I B N G A B I R O L I B N G A B I R O L
BOGRASHOV
Yemenite Quarter
Jerusalem
Jerusalem P I NS KER P I NS KER DIZENGOFF DUBNOV DUBNOV DERECH MENACHEM BEGIN Hashalom 3
Hashalom
Beach Beach MAP V3
DIZENGOFF
K APLAN
Gan Gan BEN TSIYON K APLAN Bang in the city center, the Yemenite
H AM EL EK H GE O R G E
Meir G E
SDEROT
Meir
SDEROT
A L L ENBY
A L L ENBY
BEN TSIYON
Ge’ula LASKO V LASKO V Quarter is a warren of tiny streets of
Ge’ula
Beach Beach H AKO S H E V I M H AKO S H E V I M H AM EL EK H GE O R HAHASHMONA'IM low-rise, shabby-chic houses, dotted
HAHASHMONA'IM
HA AARBA
Dolphinarium H ER BER T S AM U EL H ER BER T S AM U EL H AYA R K O N H AYA R K O N HA AARBA with hole-in-the-wall eateries. It
Dolphinarium
Beach Beach HAHASHMONA'IM merges into the HaCarmel Market
HAHASHMONA'IM
Medit err anean
Medit err anean S H E I N K I N AHAD HAAM AHAD HAAM C A R L E B A C H C A R L E B A C H MONTEFIORE YIGAL ALON YIGAL ALON (see p85), the city’s largest fresh food
YEHUDA HALEVI
MONTEFIORE
S H E I N K I N
A Y A L O N H
S ea
DERECH MENACHEM BEGIN
DERECH MENACHEM BEGIN
S ea BALFOUR YEHUDA HALEVI A Y A L O N H I G H W A Y market. Pedestrianized Nahalat
HACARMEL
BALFOUR
MAZEH
HaKovshim HACARMEL A L L E N B Y A L L E N B Y MAZEH RO THSCHILD RO THSCHILD L I NCO L N Y ITSHAK SADEH Binyamin Street’s eclectic buildings
HaKovshim
L I NCO L N
blend Moorish, Classical, and Art
AHAD HAAM
MAZEH
Charles NAHALAT BINYAMIN AHAD HAAM MAZEH Y ITSHAK SADEH Nouveau styles (see p85).
Charles N
Clore M A
Clore H A MER E D H A MER E D PINES YITSHAK SADEH
YITSHAK SADEH
ROTHSCHILD
NAHALAT BINYAMIN
Park Park F K A U F M A N PINES ROTHSCHILD A Y A L O N H I G H W AY I G H W A Y Tel Aviv Port
K A U SHABAZI HAMASGER HAMASGER 4
SHABAZI
NEVE
GAN
Alma Alma NEVE GAN Y I G AL ALON Y I G AL ALON MAP E3 • Farmers’ Market:
YEHUDA HALEVI
Beach Beach YEHUDA HALEVI HAHASHMAL HARAKKEVET Open 8:30am–8pm Mon–Sat • www.
HAHASHMAL
TZEDEK
TZEDEK SHLUSH SHLUSH PINES PINES J A F FA A Y A L O N H I G H W AY Galit namal.co.il
Galit
Park
J A F FA
Park
HARAKKEVET
J A F FA HA SHOMRON LA GUARDIA The city’s revived port (namal) has
J A F FA
HA SHOMRON
R O S H P I N A
LA GUARDIA
GOLDMAN GOLDMAN E I L A T E I L A T HE R TSE L HE R TSE L H A A L I YA H A A L I YA L E V I N S KI R O S H P I N A LE VAN DAR H A M A S G ER MAR GO L IN undulating stretches of wooden
SD E ROT HAR TS IYON
MAR GO L IN
LE VAN DA
L E V I N S KI
decking and a Mediterranean vibe.
YIGAL A LO N
FLORENTINE
D. RAZIEL ELI FE LE T ELI FE LE T FLORENTINE SD E ROT HAR TS IYON LEVINSKI H A M A S G E MORDEHAI ANILEVICH MORDEHAI ANILEVICH YIGAL A LO N HAHIL AVE Restaurants, cafés, and shops l
D. RAZIEL
HAHIL AVE
the boardwalk. Great for families
LEVINSKI
JAFFA
JAFFA Central during the day, it is the perfect place
Central
S H L O M O
Bus Station
S H L O M O
KEDUMIM YERUSHALAYIM YERUSHALAYIM S H L O M O S H L O M O Bus Station
KEDUMIM
SQUARE
SQUARE SHLOMO DER ECH HAHAGANA for an evening drink; later it’s a busy
YEFET YEFET KIBBUTZ GALUYOT S C H OC K E N S C H OC K E N MESILAT YESHARIM MESILAT YESHARIM HaHaganah 0 meters 600 600 nightlife spot. In Hangar 12, an eco-
DER ECH HAHAGANA
SHLOMO
HaHaganah
0 meters
Bloomfield
YEHUDA
YEHUDA
MERAGUSA
MERAGUSA OLEI ZION Bloomfield Garden SHAPIRA ISRAEL M ISALANT ISRAEL M ISALANT 0 yards 600 600 building powered by green energy,
Groningen
Stadium Groningen
Stadium
KIBBUTZ GALUYOT
SHAPIRA
0 yards
Garden
there is a farmers’ organic market.
OLEI ZION
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82 ❯❯ Israel and Petra Area by Area

Jaffa
7
MAP T6 • Jaffa Visitor Center:
Kedumim Square, Old Jaffa; (03)
5184015; www.goisrael.com • Most
businesses stay open on Shabbat
Located just south of Tel Aviv, this
ancient port (see pp28–9), long home
to both Arabs and Jews, was ran-
sacked by Napoleon in 1799 but
subsequently rebuilt. The main
square is marked by an Ottoman
clock tower (1906). Roman columns
from Caesarea and Ashkelon were
Charming Neve Tzedek Street used to build the Mahmoudiya
Mosque (1812), which also has a
Neve Tzedek
5 Suleyman fountain. Gan HaPisga,
a hilltop park, affords dazzling views
MAP U4 • Gutman Museum of
Art: 21 Shimon Rockach St; (03) 516 of the waterfront, especially at night.
1970; open 10am–4pm Mon–Thu, Jaffa is also a great place to shop,
10am–2pm Fri, 10am–3pm Sat • Adm with its flourishing artists’ quarter
Built in the 1880s as the first Jewish and flea market (see p85).
neighborhood of Jaffa, Neve Tzedek
Bialik Street
boasts flower-filled lanes, boutiques, 8
and places to dine. Its focal point is MAP V3 • Beit Ha’ir: 27 Bialik
the Suzanne Dellal Centre (see p55), St; (03) 724 0311; open 9am–5pm
which hosts cultural events. Nearby, Mon–Thu (till 8pm Tue), 10am–2pm
a museum dedicated to Israeli artist Fri & Sat; www.beithair.org
Nachum Gutman displays his paint- Many historic buildings line this
ings of the new city. To the south, the peaceful street. Beit Ha’ir, the old
trendy bohemian neighborhood of town hall, is now a museum telling
Florentine is undergoing transfor- Tel Aviv-Jaffa’s history. The eye-
mation and is also worth a visit. catching building next door is the
Felicja Blumental Music Center,
which hosts classical music con-
BAUHAUS certs. Opposite, the Design Museum
Also known as International Style, of the International School has
Bauhaus architecture is easy to spot: furniture and pieces of European
clean-lined, unornamented buildings Bauhaus design. The house of Chaim
with horizontal ribbon windows, Bialik at No. 22 has been restored
vertical “thermometer windows” that with original furnishings and decor.
supply light to stairwells, and elongated A few doors down, the Reuven Rubin
balconies with rounded corners.
Museum has a display of his paint-
ings, and a preserved studio.
Sarona Market
6
MAP X3 • www.saronamarket.
co.il/en
A more upmarket adaptation of
the HaCarmel Market (see p85) or
Jerusalem’s Mahane Yehuda (see
p71), this indoor market is a delight
for foodies. Sarona was a German
Templer colony built in the 19th
century, and you can now stroll among
the restored houses adjacent to the
north of the market before eating
at one of the many restaurants.


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Tel Aviv-Jaffa ❮❮ 83

Rothschild Boulevard
9 A DAY DOWN THE PROMENADE
MAP W3 • Independence Hall:
(03) 517 3942; open 9am–5pm Sun– Nordau Beach Tel Aviv Port
Thu, 9am–2pm Fri; adm • Haganah Hilton Beach
Museum: (03) 560 8624; open Gordon Pool Ben-Gurion
8am–4pm Sun–Thu; adm House
One of the city’s most prestigious Frishman Beach
addresses, this leafy street is lined Dolphinarium
with some fine Bauhaus architecture Beach
(see p84). Independence Hall, at No. Charles Clore Hassan Bek Mosque
16, was the home of Meir Dizengoff, Park
the city’s first mayor, and where Ben- Etzel Museum HaTachana
Gurion declared Israel’s indepen- Jaffa
dence on May 14, 1948. At No. 23,
the Haganah Museum documents MORNING
the origins of the IDF.
The 3.5-mile (5.5-km) promenade
is an enjoyable walk (to avoid the
worst of the heat, this itinerary
can be started in the mid-
afternoon). Bring your towel and
sunblock, and pick your favorite
beach. First, try a refreshing
organic juice at the farmers’
market at Tel Aviv Port. Heading
south, you’ll pass walled Nordau
Beach, gender-segregated by day
for Orthodox Jewish bathers. Next
is the Hilton Beach, set below
Independence Park and a lively
and gay-friendly spot. The south
Interior of Independence Hall side of the beach is one of the
best spots for surfing. Continue
HaYarkon Park
0 to the marina, bobbing with small
yachts, where anyone can use the
MAP E3
Running along the Yarkon River in the famous Gordon Pool ($13–19).
north of the city, this park has a kids’ Make a quick detour inland to
adventure playground, a bird park, No. 17 Ben-Gurion Street and
and tropical garden. Row boats check out Ben-Gurion House.
Come back to Gordon Beach and
can be rented on the lake, and the have a coffee or a beer at the
Sportech complex has a climbing excellent Gordo Beachfront Café.
wall, basketball courts, and a skate
park. On the northern edge is Luna AFTERNOON
Park, complete with a roller coaster;
east is the Meymadion Water Park. Further on, Frishman Beach
attracts large crowds. Stick to the
promenade until you reach the
Boats, HaYarkon Park lake Hassan Bek Mosque in Manshiye.
Tel Aviv-Jaffa’s hippies congre-
gate on adjacent Dolphinarium
Beach on Friday afternoons for
drumming, capoeira, and jug-
gling. Charles Clore Park con-
tains the Etzel Museum. Head
inland to trendy HaTachana (see
p85) for tapas at the Vicki Cristina
wine bar or browse the shops.
Head back to the promenade
and you’re almost in Jaffa.
See map on pp80–81


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84 ❯❯ Israel and Petra Area by Area

Bauhaus Buildings


9 Gordon Street
12 Tel Hai Street
1 5
MAP W2
MAP V1
This city block has asymmetrical This building incorporates the
balconies and a recessed left side. boat shape conceptualized by
The concrete pergolas that criss­ Erich Mendelsohn, the first notable
cross the roof are intended to act German­Jewish architect to arrive
as sun­breakers. in Tel Aviv. The curves, designed to
take the edge off the harshness of
modern life, were criticized as being
contrary to Bauhaus principles.
Dizengoff Square
6
MAP V2
Beautifully restored 1930s buildings
grace this square, which is being
restored. The Cinema Hotel, built as
a movie theater in 1939, has ribbons
of horizontal windows, over hanging
ledges, and curved balconies.
65 Sheinkin Street
7
MAP V3
Built in 1935, the Rabinsky House
uses practical fixtures to create
decorative elements. The balconies
Bauhaus building on Bialik Street are horizontal, with holes to allow
the breeze to cool the building.
Bialik Street
2 Ahad HaAm Street
MAP V3
This street is an architectural mix of 8
MAP V4
1930s Bauhaus and 1920s Eclectic No. 49 is a series of rounded corners
style. No. 21 has clean lines accented set off by angular balconies. No. 57
by horizontal balcony roofs and vertical is made up entirely of rectangles and
pillars. Inside, a Bauhaus Museum cubes. No. 93, 95, and 126 have
features 1930s furnishings. No. 18 classic Bauhaus window strips.
has two balcony wings enclosing a
Rothschild Boulevard
central garden. 9
A perfect white cube sits at
5 Frug Street
3 No. 71, with unbalanced windows
and slit balconies. The Rubinsky
MAP V2
Known as the Thermometer House, House at No. 82 has a characteristic
this structure was designed for the vertical glass stairwell. No. 142 has
local climate. Triangular slats supply curved projecting balconies with
light and shade to the stairwell. balustrades, a flat roof, and cafés
at ground level (see p83).
Yael Street
4 Mazeh Street
MAP W2
MAP W4
No. 6 has asymmetrical windows 0
and balconies within a symmetrical No. 41 was the first structure to be
frame. No. 5 is all horizontal planes, built on stilts in Tel Aviv. No. 56 sits
except for the vertical stairwell with in front of the Diaghilev Hotel, a late
glass tiles and porthole windows 20th­century block that echoes the
that provide natural light and air. structure of the original 1934 edifice.
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Date 24th June 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Tel Aviv-Jaffa ❮❮ 85

Shopping Areas


HaTachana
1 Square has a flea market every
MAP T5
Tuesday and Friday. Dizengoff
Housed in the restored old Jaffa train Center mall is at the southern end.
station, this is a self-contained
Nahalat Binyamin
complex of designer boutiques, 6
handmade jewelry stores, and MAP V4 • Open
a couple of great eating options. 9:30am–5:30pm Tue, 9am–4pm Fri
On Tuesday and Friday, this
Shabazi Street
2 buzzing pedestrianized street
hosts an arts and crafts fair.
MAP U4 • Neve
Tzedek Glassware, jewelry, and
Fashion designers, Judaica are available.
jewelers, ceramicists,
Azrieli Centre
and shoe boutiques 7
abound along this MAP X2 • Adm
street. Great for a spot to the observatory
of window shopping. These triangular, square,
and circular space-age
HaCarmel
3 skyscrapers define the
Market
Tel Aviv-Jaffa skyline.
objet d’art
MAP V3 • Open 8am–5pm Nahalat Binyamin There’s a three-level
Sun–Fri shopping mall inside,
The fresh produce section at and an observatory deck on the
this traditional souk is legendary. 49th floor of the round tower.
The side alleys specialize in spices,
Sheinkin Street
fish, nuts, and sausages. 8
MAP V3
Gan HaHashmal
4 Upscale Sheinkin used to be the hub
of Tel Aviv’s Bohemian fashion scene.
MAP W4
Don’t be discouraged by the seedy Sidewalk cafés and independent
look; this is the place for cutting- boutiques and eateries still give the
edge fashion, jewelry, and footwear. chain stores a run for their money.
Artists’ Quarter, Jaffa
Dizengoff Street
5 9
MAP S6
MAP V2
This is Tel Aviv’s main retail street. The lanes here are crammed with
The Bauhaus Center at No. 99 is an studios and galleries. Buy original
essential stop for gifts, and Dizengoff works by the sculptor in the Ilana
Goor Museum, or check
out Israeli poster art at the
Farkash Gallery.
Flea Market, Jaffa
0
MAP T6
Spread across the sidewalk
or stacked onto stalls,
genuine antiques can be
found among the junk at
this flea market, along with
several vintage shops and
quaint cafés.
Dizengoff Square flea market
See map on pp80–81
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86 ❯❯ Israel and Petra Area by Area

Bars and Nightlife Spots














José González of rock band Junip playing a gig at the Barby Club
The Cat & The Dog
Barby Club
1 6
MAP V6 • 52 Kibbutz Galuyot
MAP X3 • 23 Carlebach St
St • (03) 518 8123 • Open 8:30pm– • (03) 561 5595 • Open 11pm–
late • barby.co.il 7am daily
A magnet for Israeli musical talent, Underground club playing electronic
Barby is the best place in the city music, popular with those who like
to hear both up-and-coming bands to drink and party through the night.
and established musicians. Lima Lima Bar
The Container
2 7
MAP V4 • 42 Lilienblum St
• (054) 246 7906 • Open 10:30pm–
MAP S6 • Warehouse 2, Jaffa
Port • (03) 683 6321 • Open noon– 5am daily
late Sun–Thu, 10am–late Fri & Sat This dance bar and lounge is famous
This popular “project space,” located for its theme nights, including epic,
in one of the converted warehouses gay-friendly hip-hop on Mondays.
on the port, blends live music shows
HaMinzar
and art with food and alcohol. 8
MAP V3 • 60 Allenby St
Shaffa Bar
3 • (03) 517 3015 • Closed Yom Kippur
This characterful bar is cheap and
MAP T6 • 3 Rabbi Nachman St,
Jaffa • (03) 681 1205 • Open 9am– a bit grungy, but it’s one of the best
late daily hangouts in the city to meet people.
At Jaffa’s flea market, this is a Excellent bar food.
Mediterranean café by day and a
Imperial Craft
trendy bar with live music at night. 9
Cocktail Bar
Suramare
4 MAP U2 • 66 HaYarkon St • (073) 264
MAP X3 • 24 Seadia Gaon St
9464 • Open 6pm–late daily
• (054) 531 2553 • Open 8:30pm–late Voted one of the world’s 50 best bars
Trendy rooftop bar with olive trees in 2015, this cozy spot is best known
that enhance the unique atmosphere. for fabulous cocktails – try the Spicy
India or the World Peace Martini.
Mike’s Place
5 Radio EPGB
MAP U2 • 90 Herbert Samuel
MAP W4 • 7 Shadal St • (03)
St • (03) 510 6392 • Open 11am–late 0
With a great beach location and 560 3636 • Open 9pm–7am daily
a young vibe, this bar attracts an For a slightly alternative,
international crowd with its cheap underground, hip night out, this
drinks, diner and Tex-Mex food, place is recommended for its
and live music (nightly at 10pm). music. Different DJs every night.
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Date 24th June 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Tel Aviv-Jaffa ❮❮ 87

Places to Eat


Toto
1 PRICE CATEGORIES
MAP X2 • 4 Berkovich St
• (03) 693 5151 • Open noon– For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
midnight daily • $$$ taxes, and extra charges
With gourmet Mediterranean dishes, $ under $25 $$ $25–55 $$$ over $55
Toto is great for busi ness lunches as
well as a romantic date night.
restaurant uses the freshest
HaAchim
2 seasonal ingredients for French-
inspired cuisine. It’s also a wine bar.
MAP W3 • 12 Ibn Gabirol St
• (03) 691 7171 • Open noon–midnight
Nanuchka
Sun–Thu, from 9am Fri–Sat • $$ 6
Locals flock here for creative meat, MAP V4 • 30 Lilienblum St
seafood, and vegetarian dishes • (03) 516 2254 • Open 11–5am daily
inspired by Greece and the Levant. • $$
A classy bar-restaurant specializing
The Norman
3 in Georgian cuisine, part of the city’s
MAP W4 • The Norman Tel
flourishing vegan scene.
Aviv, 23–5 Nachmani St • (03) 543
Raphaël
555 • Open daily • $$$ 7
This gourmet place serves Franco- MAP U2 • 87 HaYarkon St
Mediterranean food with a Niçoise • (03) 522 6464 • Open noon–4pm &
flavor – and a very Israeli twist. 7–11pm daily • $$$
The traditions of France and North
Africa inspire this upscale standard-
bearer of New Israeli cuisine.
Taizu
8
MAP W4 • 23 Menahem Begin
St • (03) 522 5005 • Open noon–
3:30pm Thu–Sat & 6:30pm–midnight
daily • $$
This innovative “AsiaTerranean”
restaurant uses local ingredients
for its dishes inspired by Southeast
Asian, Indian, and Chinese food.
Courtyard seating at The Norman 9
Kitchen Market Tel Aviv
HaHalutzim 3
4 Port • (03) 544 6669 • Closed lunch
MAP E3 • Hangar 12, Tel Aviv
MAP V5 • 3 HaHalutzim St
• (03) 523 1016 • Closed Sat–Sun & Sun • $$
lunch Mon–Thu • $$ Overlooking the sea, this local foodies’
In the lively Shuk Levinsky section haunt serves Mediterranean dishes,
of South Tel Aviv, this relaxed little all made with fresh seasonal produce
place is both a neighborhood bistro from the farmers’ market downstairs.
and a bar. The food is unpretentious,
Yaffo Tel-Aviv
the soundtrack classic jazz. 0
MAP E3 • 98 Yigal Alon St
HaBasta
5 • (03) 624 9249 • Open daily • $$$
MAP V3 • 4 HaShomer St • (03)
This celebrated restaurant offers
516 9234 • Closed Sat eve • $$$ a mix of Italian form and Israeli
In Tel Aviv’s main food market, Shuk creativity inspired by chef Haim
HaCarmel, this intimate, bistro-style Cohen’s rich culinary biography.
See map on pp80–81
086-087_Top_10_Israel.indd 87 19/06/2017 12:58

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Size 100mm x 191mm

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90 ❯❯ Israel and Petra Area by Area

Galilee and the North


This is the greenest region of Israel,
with lush valleys and wooded hills.
Brimming with wild flowers in spring
and crisscrossed by hiking trails, it is
also a good place for horseback riding
and bird-watching. The sparkling Sea of
Galilee is a major draw, and Tiberias makes
Capital, Capernaum a good base for exploring sites central to
synagogue Jesus’ ministry. The region is steeped in
Jewish religious history too. The town of
Safed has winding streets and ancient synagogues, while the region’s
wealth of archeological sites – Caesarea, Beit She’an, and Tzipori
– is overwhelming. A visit to Akko is like stepping back in time, and
nearby Haifa is bright and bustling. The Golan Heights has spectac-
ular views, while majestic Mount Hermon has a winter ski slope.

GALILEE AND THE NORTH
Majdal
Top 10 Sights Tyre Metula Shams
see pp91–3
Jouaiya Dan
Places to Eat
see p95 Qana LEBANON Kiryat
Shmona
Tibnin
Archeological Sites Northern
see p94 Golan 99
Bent Jbail
Gonen
Ramot Naftali
Kfar Rosh HaNikra Avivim
Ma’a lot- Southern
Nahariyya Tarshiha 90 Golan
Jish 91
Shavei Tsiyon 89 Meron Hills 89
4 Safed (Tzfat) Katzrin
Shomrat Rosh Pina
Majd el-Krum 85 Farod Korazim
Akko (Acre)
Karmi’el
Capernaum
Tabgha
70 Sakhnin Ramot
Sea of
Ginosar Galilee
Haifa Shfar’am 65
Kiryat Lavi 98
Ata 77 77 ‘En Gev
Tirat Tiberias
Karmel 75 Tzipori Cana
Kiryat Tiv’on 77 79 (Kafr Kana) Ha-On’
Neve 2 75 Nazareth
Yam 4 Yokne’am Kfar Tavor Umm Qays
66
Gesher
60
70 Mishmar Afula
Zihron HaEmek
Ya’akov 71 Beit 90 Ash Shunah
Megiddo
Izre’el’ HaShita
Regavim Harod Jezreel Valley
Caesarea Zububa JORDAN
65
Pardes Umm al- 66
4 Fahm Beit She’an
Khana-Karkur Jenin 0 kilometers 15
Ya’bad Sdei Trumot
Khadera 6 0 miles 15
Previous pages The distinctive Monastery of the Twelve Apostles, near Capernaum
090-093_Top_10_Israel.indd 90 19/06/2017 12:58

Galilee and the North ❮❮ 91

Haifa
1
The focal point of this port city,
built on and around the slopes of
verdant Mount Carmel, is the Baha’i
Gardens, containing the golden
Shrine of the Bab. In the German
Colony, Ben-Gurion Street is lined
with attractive Templer buildings,
many of which have been turned
into restaurants, bars, or hotels.
Haifa has a mixed population, and
the lanes of the Arab area of Wadi
Nisnas contain great local eateries.
The Carmel Center district, high atop
Mount Carmel, has some excellent
restaurants, while the port is popular
for its nightlife. Museum buffs will be
spoiled for choice, as the city boasts
excellent art, science, and maritime
museums (see pp24–5).
Northern Golan
2 The Franciscan church in Cana
MAP A6 • Adm for Nimrod
Cana (Kafr Kana)
Castle, Banias Nature Reserve, and 3
Mount Hermon • www.parks.org.il MAP C5 • Churches St
Captured from Syria in 1967, the • Franciscan Church of the Wedding
Golan is known for stunning scenery Feast: open 8am–noon & 2–5pm
and dramatic viewpoints. The peak of Mon–Sat; Greek Orthodox Wedding
Mount Hermon has skiing in winter Church: open 8am–3pm Mon–Sat,
(see p50), while Nimrod Castle is closed Sun afternoon
a superbly located Crusader-era Tradition holds that Jesus turned
Muslim fortress. The waterfalls, water into wine in this large Arab
walks, and archeological sites at village, 6 miles (10 km) north of
Banias Nature Reserve are fun for Nazareth's Old City. Two churches
all ages. Boutique industries flourish compete to commemorate the
in moshavim and kibbutzim in the event. The Franciscan church has
area, while four Druze villages and an ancient mosaic and crypt, but
towns, including Majdal Shams and the more ornate Greek Orthodox
Mas’ade, welcome visitors to their church contains stone jars that are
grilled-meat restaurants and said to have been involved in the
specialty baklava shops. miracle itself.
Spectacular viewpoint, Northern Golan




















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92 ❯❯ Israel and Petra Area by Area

Southern Golan
4
MAP B6 • www.parks.org.il
Some of Israel’s best hiking is here,
in the Yehudia Nature Reserve. The
Zavitan Canyon leads to pools with
extraordinary hexagonal basalt
formations, while Yehudia Canyon
entails swimming through pools
of icy water. Katzrin, the regional
capital, was founded in 1977. There’s
an ancient Jewish settlement, an
archeological museum, and a visitor
center here. Gamla Nature Reserve
also has walking trails.
Sea of Galilee
5 The colorful harbor at Akko's Old City
A popular holiday spot, this
scenic lake is called the Kinneret by Old mosques join the Protestant,
Israelis (see pp32–3). Major Christian Catholic, and Greek churches on
sites dot the banks. At Tabgha, a the water’s edge.
church marks the traditional site
Jezreel Valley
of the Feeding of the Five Thousand. 7
Capernaum has archeological MAP C5 • Kavim buses 411
remains, including a church built and 412 to Beit She’an
over the house of the Apostle Peter. The valley is edged to the south by
The Mount of Beatitudes has an the Gilboa mountains, with its scenic
octagonal church and sublime views. driving route, walking trails, and
At Yardenit, on the south side of the viewpoints. Ruins of the Roman city
lake, white-gowned pilgrims gather of Beit She’an (see p94) at the valley’s
to be baptized in the Jordan River. eastern end are the most extensive
in the country. The natural pools at
Tiberias
6 Gan HaShlosha National Park are
perfect for bathing, while close by,
MAP C5 • Tourist Office:
23 HaBanim St; (04) 672 5666 the Beit Alpha synagogue (see p94)
This large resort town was founded has a magnificent Byzantine-era
in Roman times to take advantage mosaic floor. There’s an art museum
of the nearby hot springs. These and a lovely café at Kibbutz Ein
remain an attraction, as do the Harod Meuchad.
nearby beaches. Roman ruins at
Safed (Tzfat)
Hamat Tiberias National 8
Park include a zodiac wheel MAP B5 • Synagogues: Open
mosaic in the synagogue. 9:30am–5pm Sun–Thu (till noon Fri);
One of four Jewish holy Beit HaMeiri Museum: 8:30am–
cities, Tiberias has tombs 2:30pm Sun–Thu (till 1:30pm Fri)
of many eminent rabbis. Sephardic Jewish scholars fleeing
the Spanish Inquisition turned Safed
Ancient mosque, into a world center of Kabbalah
Tiberias (Jewish mysticism), and it retains an
ethereal vibe to this day. Centuries-
old synagogues associated with
illustrious rabbis from centuries
past are still in use, while the Artists’
Quarter is crammed with galleries
and studios. For a glimpse into
19th-century life here, drop by
the Beit HaMeiri Museum.





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Galilee and the North ❮❮ 93


A WALKING TOUR OF SAFED
Kadosh Dairy
Ashkenazi Ari
Abuhav Synagogue
Synagogue
Caro Synagogue
Beit HaMeiri Citadel
Museum Park
Yerushalayim
HaMeiri Street
Tombs of the Dairy
Kabbalists General Safed
Exhibition
Artists’ Quarter
Museum of Hungarian-
Speaking Jewry
MORNING
Start at the elaborately painted
Ashkenazi Ari Synagogue,
Akko (Acre)
9 founded in the 1500s and rebuilt
after the great earthquake of
MAP B4 • Visitor Center,
Festival Garden • (1700) 708 020 1837. Walk south through the
Synagogue Quarter, past beautiful
• Most sites open 8:30am–4/5pm daily Judaica shops, to the Caro
The mostly Arab Old City, enclosed Synagogue, named after
by solid walls, a broad moat, and the Rabbi Yosef Caro, compiler of
Mediterranean, has a citadel, souk an important code of Jewish law.
(market), mosques, Turkish khans, Backtrack a bit and head down
and a hammam from the 1700s; the hill to the Abuhav Synagogue,
hidden deep below is a subterranean endowed with an ornately carved
modern courtyard. Stop off at
Crusader city. Old Akko has great Kadosh Dairy for a cheesy snack
fish restaurants near the harbor and on the way to the Tombs of the
a famous hummus joint. The lovely Kabbalists, among them the Ari.
Baha'i Gardens outside the city hold
the Baha'i faith's most sacred site. AFTERNOON
After a picnic lunch of g'vina
CHRIST’S MINISTRY Tzfatit (a local cheese) from at
HaMeiri Dairy, visit the Beit
Jesus did much of his preaching by the HaMeiri Museum for a look at
shores of the Sea of Galilee. It is where life in the city during Ottoman
he is believed to have walked on water, times. Then walk to the Artists'
fed the 5,000, given the Sermon on the Quarter, home to the General
Mount, and expelled a legion of devils. Safed Exhibition, which exhibits
a selection of works by some
60 local artists. Visit individual
Nazareth
0 artists' studios to see paintings,
calligraphy, ceramics, glasswork,
MAP C5
Israel's largest Arab city is best and sculpture, much of it with
a Jewish mystical theme.
known as Jesus' childhood home. Then, for something completely
Most of the major Christian sites and different, head to the Museum
the souk are in the bustling Old City, of Hungarian-Speaking Jewry,
a maze of alleyways between the whose evocative exhibits focus
Greek Orthodox Church of the on the richness of Jewish culture
Annunciation (Church of St. Gabriel) in parts of Central Europe. Enjoy
a casual dinner of shawarma or
and the Catholic Basilica of the falafel on Yerushalayim Street
Annunciation (see p42). Hidden down after walking through the Citadel
narrow passages are the Synagogue Park, a Crusader fortress at the
Church, the White Mosque, Ottoman- highest point in town.
era mansions, and great restaurants.
See map on p90
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94 ❯❯ Israel and Petra Area by Area

Archeological Sites


Gamla Nature Reserve
Beit Alpha Synagogue
1 6
MAP B6 • Route 808, Lower
This 5th-century synagogue
has an almost intact mosaic floor Golan
showing the Ark of the Covenant In AD 67, thousands of Jewish
and a zodiac wheel design (see p44). rebels held out here for seven
months under Roman siege. The
Belvoir Castle
2 park’s cliffs host nesting vultures,
and there are also waterfalls.
MAP C5 • Off Route 90,
17 miles (27 km) S of Tiberias
Tzipori National Park
• (04) 658 1766 7
This well-preserved Crusader The Roman and Byzantine
fortress evokes the siege by Saladin’s town of Tzipori (Zippori) is famous
armies that ended in 1189 with the for its extraordinary water-supply
surrender of the Christian defenders. system and its mosaics (see p44).
Banias Nature Reserve
Megiddo National Park
3 8
MAP A6 • Off Route 99,
MAP C4 • Route 66, 22 miles
(35 km) SE of Haifa • (04) 659 0316 9 miles (15 km) E of Kiryat Shmona
According to the Book of Revelation, • (04) 690 2577
this is where Armageddon (Megiddo) This popular park has walking trails
will take place. Archeologists have that lead past Ptolemaic, Roman,
found over 24 different historical Crusader, and Islamic remains.
layers, some as far back as 4000 BC. Korazim National Park
Nimrod Castle
4 9
Remains of dolmens, homes,
ritual baths, and a synagogue can be
MAP A6 • NE of Banias
• (04) 694 9277 seen in this ancient hillside Jewish
Perched atop a narrow ridge, this town (see p44).
13th-century castle was built by
Caesarea National Park
Muslim rulers. The walls are well 0
preserved, and the views astounding. MAP D3 • Off Rd 2 • (04) 626
7080
Beit She’an Ruins
5 Founded by Herod the Great and
named for Augustus Caesar, this
MAP D5 • (04) 658 7189
Israel’s best-preserved Roman city grand port city has extensive Roman
boasts almost intact bathhouses, ruins. Highlights include an amphi-
shops, and a theater. theater and the port itself.
Roman ruins
at Caesarea









Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
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Galilee and the North ❮❮ 95

Places to Eat


restaurant, though vegetarians will
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one with half have plenty to eat too, including
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), generous salads, pasta, and soups.
taxes, and extra charges.
Fattoush, Haifa
$$ $25–55 $$$ over $55 7
$ under $25
MAP C3 • 38 Ben-Gurion St,
German Colony • (04) 852 4930
Helena, Caesarea
1 • Open 9–1am • $$$
National Park
Choose between outdoor seating or
MAP D3 • Old Harbor • (04) 610 1018 the candlelit cavern at Fattoush for
• Open noon–11pm • $$ Oriental and international cuisine.
Helena boasts an excellent location
and top-notch Mediterranean food.
Abu Ashraf, Nazareth
2
MAP C5 • Diwan al-Saraya, Old
City • (04) 657 8697 • Open 8am–8pm
Mon–Sat, noon–4pm Sun • $
Katayef, a Nazarene-style crêpe with
either goat cheese or cinnamon
walnuts inside, is the specialty here.
Al-Reda, Nazareth
3
MAP C5 • 21 Al-Bishara St
• (04) 608 4404 • Open 1pm–2am
Mon–Sat, 7am–am Sun • $$$ Pleasant dining area at Fattoush
Traditional Nazarene dishes and
Uri Buri, Akko
Mediterranean cuisine are served 8
beneath soaring ceilings in an MAP B4 • HaHagana St • (04)
18th-century Arab mansion. 955 2212 • Open noon–11pm daily
• $$$
El Babor, Umm al-Fahm
4 This fish and seafood restaurant
in a seaside Ottoman mansion is
MAP D4 • Hwy 65 • (04) 611
0691 • Open 10am–11pm daily • $$ magi cal. Try the chef’s tasting menu.
This veteran Arab restaurant,
Ma’ayan HaBira, Haifa
founded in the 1980s, is famous 9
for its grilled meats and superb MAP C3 • 4 Natanzon St • (04)
selection of vegetarian meze. 862 3193 • Open 10am–5pm Sun–Fri,
10am–11pm Tue, closed Sat • $$
The Witch’s Cauldron
5 A Haifa institution for over half a
and the Milkman,
century, this port-area pub is known
Nahal Nimrod for its beer and Jewish dishes from
MAP A6 • Upper Golan • (04) 687 Eastern Europe.
0049 • Open noon–9pm Sun & Sat
Moshbutz, Moshav
• $$$ 0
The focus here is on rich casseroles Ramot
and dishes that use local ingredients. MAP B6 • Eastern Shore, Sea of
Galilee • (04) 679 5095 • Open 6pm–
HaAri 8, Safed
6 late daily • $$$
Succulent steaks from Golan-bred
MAP B5 • 8 HaAri St • (04) 692
0033 • Closed Fri, Sat • $$ cattle attract carnivores from far and
Grilled meats are the speciality at wide. The perfect complement for a
central Safed’s most acclaimed meaty meal: a Golan wine.
See map on p90
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96 ❯❯ Israel and Petra Area by Area

Dead Sea and

the Negev


Rich in fascinating ancient sites, this region is
where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered and
Jewish rebels atop Masada defied the Romans.
At the Dead Sea, spas and mineral-rich waters
attract tourists and cure-seekers. Freshwater
springs at Ein Gedi oasis create a surprising
swathe of lush vegetation amid the arid hills. In the
high Negev Desert, the vast crater of Makhtesh
Ramon is best explored on foot. The Nabateans,
builders of Petra, also established cities here,
Entrance, Timna while at the southern tip of Israel, the resort
National Park city of Eilat is famed for its Red Sea coral reefs.
DEAD SEA AND THE NEGEV
Ashdod Jerusalem Qumran
4 National Park
Ashkelon 6 60
Mediterranean Kiryat Gat WEST
BANK
S ea 90 Dead
Gaza Hebron Sea
6
GAZA Rahat Ein Gedi
Nature Reserve
Ofakim
Kerem Arad Masada
Shalom’ Be’er Sheva
31 Ein Bokek
Tse’elim Nevatim Kerak
40 Arish 10
Revivim 40
25
Tlalim Fifah
Ne’ot 35
Nitzana HaKikar 60
55 3 Shivta Ein Avdat National Park At-Tafilah
Avdat 90 Ein Hazeva
El Quseima Makhtesh Jurf ed-Darawish
Mitzpe Ramon Ramon
Tsofar
40
Ash
Shawbak
Hasna Be’er
Negev Menukha 15
EGY PT D eser t Petra
Ma'an
Dilaghah
10
0 kilometers 30 90
Ne’ot Smadar Al Murayghah
0 miles 30
12
Top 10 Sights Yotvata 47 JORD AN
see pp97–9
Places to Eat Timna National Park
see p101 55 12 Ramon Airport
The Best of the Rest 90 King Hussein Airport
see p100 Eilat
Aqaba
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Dead Sea and the Negev ❮❮ 97

Avdat
1
MAP B2 • Route 40 • (08) 655
1511 • Egged bus 392, Metropoline
bus 60 from Be’er Sheva • Open 8am–
5pm (till 4pm Fri and winter) • Adm
• www.parks.org.il
This settlement was founded in the
3rd century BC by the Nabataeans
as a way station on the Spice Route.
Now designated a UNESCO World
Heritage Site, it sits on a hill top
overlooking desert canyons and an
ancient network of irrigation canals.
Many of the ruins here date from Botanical garden near Ein Gedi
Byzantine times, including the
remains of two churches and the middle of the desert, at least as
hundreds of cave dwellings. far as plant life is concerned. Two
gorges, Wadi David and Wadi Arugot,
Be’er Sheva
2 can be walked along (and at some
points splashed through), and ani-
MAP H3 • Visitor Center:
1 Hebron Rd; (08) 623 4613; open mals, especially ibex and rock hyrax,
8am–5pm Sun–Thu, call in advance can often be spotted. Kibbutz Ein
Described in Genesis (21:22–34) as Gedi, 2 miles (3 km) to the south, has
the place where Abraham dug a well, a fabulous botanical garden and a
or be’er, the “capital of the Negev” lovely hotel (see p116), while Ein Gedi
is home to the main campus of the Health Spa is a fine spot to try mud
innovative Ben-Gurion University of treatments and soak in sulfur pools.
the Negev. The former Governor’s
Masada
Residence, now the Negev Art 4
Museum, and the mosque next This World Heritage Site and
door merit a special visit. Pick up national park towers over the west-
a walking tour map at the Visitor ern edge of the Dead Sea. At the end
Center. A Bedouin market is held of the Jewish Revolt of AD 66–73,
in town every Thursday. almost 1,000 rebels, besieged within
this mountain fortress, killed them-
3 of Rome. After the Romans left, the
Ein Gedi Nature Reserve selves rather than submit to the rule
MAP G5 • Route 90, 35 miles
(56 km) S of Jericho • (08) 658 4285 site was apparently deserted for
• Open summer: 8am–5pm; winter: 200 years, until, in the 5th century,
8am–4pm • Adm • www.parks.org.il; Christian hermits established a
www.ein-gedi.co.il monastery here. The remains of
Fed by several springs, verdant Ein a Byzantine church can still be
Gedi is like a slice of the tropics in seen (see pp30–31).
Masada’s mountaintop viewpoint

















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98 ❯❯ Israel and Petra Area by Area























Hiking through the pale-walled ravines of Ein Avdat National Park
Ein Avdat National Park
5 possible. In ancient times, the
Nabataean Spice Route between
MAP B2 • Route 40, 32 miles
(51 km) S of Be’er Sheva • (08) 655 Petra and Gaza crossed the crater.
5684 • Egged bus 392, Metropoline
Qumran National Park
bus 60 • Open summer: 8am–5pm; 7
winter: 8am–4pm • Adm • www. MAP F5 • Route 90, 12 miles
parks.org.il (20 km) S of Jericho • (02) 994 2235
One of Israel’s most stunning walks • Open summer: 8am–5pm Sat–Thu;
is along Ein Avdat’s Nahal Zin gorge. winter: 8am–4pm Sat–Thu; closes 1 hr
The white-walled ravine has springs earlier Fri • Adm
feeding ice-cold glassy pools. From In 1947, a Bedouin shepherd found a
the lower entrance, the walk passes cave full of jars containing the Dead
a waterfall, a poplar grove, and rock- Sea Scrolls. They had been hidden
hewn steps before a final clamber up from the Romans 2,000 years ago by
metal ladders to the upper car park. a desert community of ascetic Jews
Ibex are often seen on the escarp- who awaited the Messiah. Many of
ment. The grave of David Ben-Gurion the scrolls are on display in the
is located in Midreshet Sde Boker, Israel Museum (see pp18–21), but
next to the lower entrance. here you can visit an archeological
site and museum. Unless it’s too hot,
Makhtesh Ramon
6 it is worth scrambling up to the
caves themselves, but allow at least
MAP B2 • Route 40, 50 miles
(80 km) S of Be’er Sheva • Visitor 2 hours and take lots of water.
Center: (08) 658 8691; open summer:
8am–5pm Sat–Thu; winter: 8am–4pm
Sat–Thu; closes 1 hr earlier Fri • Adm THE DEAD SEA
Israel’s version of the Grand Canyon, No place on earth is lower than
this is the largest erosion crater in the Dead Sea, which is over 1,400 ft
the world, some 25 miles (40 km) (427 m) below sea level. So while water
long and 1,310 ft (400 m) deep. It flows into the Dead Sea, it cannot flow
is scattered with mountainous rock out. Over the eons, salts and minerals
formations and laced with hiking and have accumulated, bringing the Dead
Sea’s salinity up to 34 percent, around
biking trails (take a map). Jeep tours, ten times that of the ocean.
stargazing, and camping are also

Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Two-column, 8.5pt grid “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v.1.9)
096-099_Top_10_Israel.indd 98 19/06/2017 12:58
Date 24th June 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm