THE CL OISTERS MUSEUM 249
La Clarté-Dieu Abbey in Medieval Gardens
France, was vandalized, and
the statue was used to bridge More than 300 varieties of
a stream. plants grown in the Middle
In the Boppard Room, the Ages can be found in the
lives of the saints are told in Cloisters’ gardens. The
marvelous late Gothic stained Bonnefont Cloister has many
glass from Germany. species of aromatic, magic,
Robert Campin’s Flemish medicinal, and culinary herbs.
masterwork, the Annunciation The Trie Cloister features plants
shown in the Unicorn Tapestries
altarpiece, is the focus of the and reveals the use of flowers
Campin Room. This is an inti- in medieval symbolism: roses
mate space with furnishings (for the Virgin Mary), pansies
that might have belonged to a (the Holy Trinity), and daisies
wealthy 15th-century family. (the eye of Christ). Bonnefont Cloister
The Tapestries The Treasury
the tapestries are remarkably
The Cloisters’ tapestries are well preserved. They are also In medieval times, precious
full of rich imagery and astonishing in detail, with objects were stored for safe-
symbolism, and are among keeping in sanctuaries. At
the museum’s most highly the Cloisters, they are found
prized treasures. The four in the Treasury.
Nine Heroes Tapestries bear The collection includes
the coat of arms of Jean, several Gothic illuminated
Duc de Berry, who was “books of hours.” These were
a brother of the King of used for the private devotions
France and one of the of the nobility, such as the
greatest art patrons of Limbourg brothers’ Belles Heures,
the Middle Ages. These made for Jean, Duc de Berry, in
tapestries are one of only 1410, and the tiny, palm-sized
two sets that survived version made by Gothic master
from the late 14th century; Jean Pucelle for the Queen of
the other set belonged France around 1325.
to Jean’s brother, Louis, Other religious artifacts range
Duc d’Anjou. from a 13th-century English ivory
Nine great heroes of the Virgin to the 14th-century silver
past – three pagan, three gilt-and-enamel reliquary shrine
Hebrew, three Christian – thought to have belonged to
are shown with members Queen Elizabeth of Hungary,
of the medieval court, along with censers, chalices,
from cardinals, knights, candlesticks, and crucifixes.
and damsels to musicians. Curiosities here include the
In an adjacent room is “Monkey Cup,” an enameled
the magnificent Hunt of Julius Caesar, entertained by court musicians, in a beaker probably made for the
the Unicorn, a series of Nine Heroes tapestry 15th-century Burgundian
seven tapestries woven in court, showing mischievous
the Netherlands around 1500. literally hundreds of minutely monkeys robbing a sleeping
It depicts the symbolic hunt observed plants and animals. peddler; an intricately carved
of the mythical unicorn and its Their story can be read as a rosary bead the size of a walnut;
capture by a maiden. tale of courtly love, but the a 13th-century boat-shaped,
Although they were misused series is also an allegory of the jeweled salt cellar; and a full set
in the 19th century to protect Crucifixion and the Resurrection of playing cards dating to the
fruit trees from frost damage, of Christ. 15th century.
Hunting images and symbols depicted on a 15th-century deck of playing cards
248-249_EW_New_York_City.indd 249 4/3/17 11:41 AM
250 NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA
The Bronx
This borough was originally a relatively prosperous
suburb, its Grand Concourse lined with lavish apartment
buildings. Serious poverty emerged only in the 1950s,
and when the South Bronx was left to burn in the 1970s,
the entire borough became a byword for urban decay.
Despite a few signs of gentrification, the South Bronx
remains one of the city’s poorest areas. The rest of the
borough features historic mansions, tranquil parks,
an outstanding botanic garden and zoo, and the
Yankee Stadium.
A memorial at the beautiful
Woodlawn Cemetery
5 Poe Cottage mother, Maria in search of fresh
rural air. Sadly, soon after they 6 Woodlawn
2640 Grand Concourse. Tel (718)
881-8900. q Kingsbridge Rd. arrived at the cottage, Virginia Cemetery
Open 10am–3pm Thu & Fri, died of tuber culosis. Heart- Webster Ave and E 233rd St. Tel (718)
10am–4pm Sat, 1–5pm Sun. & 9 broken, Poe managed to write 920-0500. q Woodlawn. Open 8:30am–
Poe Park Visitor Center: 2650 Grand a few revered works while 4:30pm daily. Closed public hols. ^
Concourse. Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sat. in mourning, including the 7 8 ∑ thewoodlawncemetery.org
7 ∑ bronxhistoricalsociety.org moving poem Annabel Lee,
which was written in memory
Built as a modest laborer’s of his wife. Maria outlived them Established in 1863, Woodlawn
dwelling around 1812, this both, and moved out of the Cemetery is the burial place of
white-clapboard house, set cottage shortly after Poe’s many a wealthy and distinguished
incongruously today in the mysterious death in Baltimore New Yorker. Memorials and
midst of working-class Latino two years later. tombstones are set in beautiful
housing blocks, was Edgar Today, the restored cottage grounds. F. W. Woolworth and
Allan Poe’s rural home from contains several rooms set up many members of his family are
1846 to 1849. The charming to look as they did during Poe’s interred in a mausoleum only a
house originally stood on farm- time. There is also a small gallery little less ornate than the building
land a short distance away of artwork from the 1840s that carries the family name.
on East Kings bridge Road, but within the vicinity. The pink marble vault of meat
it was moved here (at the The elegant Poe Park Visitor magnate Herman Armour is
northern tip of the specially Center stands separate from oddly reminiscent of a ham.
created Poe Park) in 1913. the actual house. Designed by Other New York notables
Although Poe was already the Japanese architect Toshiko buried here include Mayor
relatively successful as the Mori, the educational facility Fiorello La Guardia; Rowland
writer of The Raven, he was features rotating art exhibitions Hussey Macy, the founder of
dogged by financial problems and, interestingly, its sharply- the great department store;
in the mid-1800s. He moved in angled roof vaguely resembles author Herman Melville; and
with his wife, Virginia, and her a raven. jazz legend Duke Ellington.
Traditional Italian specialty market in Belmont, a district of the Bronx
250-251_EW_New_York_City.indd 250 4/3/17 11:41 AM
F AR THER AFIELD 251
7 New York became known
Botanical Garden as “the house
that Ruth built”.
See pp252–3. The Yankee
Stadium was
given a facelift
8 Bronx Zoo in the mid-1970s
to seat up to
See pp254–5.
54,000 people.
One of the
largest annual
9 Belmont and gatherings has
Arthur Avenue been that of Joe DiMaggio in action at the Yankee Stadium
the Jehovah’s
q Fordham Rd (B, D, 4), then take Witnesses, and in 1950, some Regular readings, perform-
the Eastbound bus. 123,707 people attended in a ances, and other such events
∑ arthuravenuebronx.com single day. In 1965 Pope Paul VI are also held here.
celebrated mass before a crowd The museum owns over
Within walking distance of of more than 80,000. It was the 1,000 contemporary artworks
the botanical garden and zoo first visit to North America by a in a variety of mediums.
is Belmont, home to one of pope – the second was made in Among those represented are
New York’s largest Italian- 1979, when John Paul II also Romare Bearden (1911–88),
American communities. A visited the stadium. a multi-media artist known
more authentic alternative In 2009, the Yankees moved for his depictions of everyday
to Little Italy in Manhattan, to a new stadium that was African-American life; Bronx-
its main thoroughfare, Arthur located parallel to the old site. born Whitfield Lovell (b. 1959),
Avenue, is lined with Italian This stadium is one of the most renowned for his African-
bakeries, pizzerias, and expensive venues ever built, at American figures in pencil and
restaurants. The Arthur Avenue a cost of around $1.5 billion. charcoal; Cuban installation
Retail Market includes pastry The Yankees remain one of and performance artist Tania
shops, butchers, pasta-makers, the top teams in the American Bruguera (b. 1968); lauded
pork stores, fish stalls, and coffee League. There are multiple photographer Seydou Keïta
shops. Every September, the Yankee Clubhouse stores in (1921–2001) from Mali;
neighborhood celebrates New York, where tickets for tours Brazilian visual artist Hélio
Ferragosto, a harvest festival, and games can be purchased. Oiticica (1937–80); contempo-
with dancing, food stalls, live rary African-American artist
performances, and a cheese- Kara Walker (b. 1969); and the
carving contest. q The Bronx Chinese artist Xu Bing (b. 1955).
Museum of the Arts In 1982, the museum moved
into a former synagogue
0 Yankee Stadium 1040 Grand Concourse. Tel (718) 681- donated by the City of
6000. q 167th St-Grand Concourse. New York, and this has since
E 161st St at River Ave, Highbridge. Open 11am–6pm Wed, Thu, Sat & remained its premise. Between
Tel (718) 293-6000. q 161st St. Sun, 11–8pm Fri. 7 - 8 for
8 11am–1:40pm daily (except on groups. ∑ bronxmuseum.org 2004 and 2006, the museum
game afternoons); ticketed tours was modernized and expanded
available. See Sport p354. Founded in 1971, this art by the Miami-based firm,
∑ newyork.yankees.mlb.com museum showcases contemp- Arquitectonica. This can be
orary works by Asian, Latino, seen from the jagged steel-
This has been the home of and African-American artists. and-glass “accordion” facade.
the New York Yankees baseball
team since 1923. Among Yankee
heroes are two of the greatest
players of all time: Babe Ruth
and Joe DiMaggio (who was
also famous for marrying the
actress Marilyn Monroe in 1954).
In 1921 left-hander Babe Ruth,
wearing the Yankees’ distinctive
pinstripes, hit the stadium’s first
home run – against the Boston
Red Sox, his former team. The
stadium was completed two
years later by Jacob Ruppert,
the owner of the Yankees, and An exhibition at the Bronx Museum of the Arts
250-251_EW_New_York_City.indd 251 4/3/17 11:41 AM
252 NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA
7 New York Botanical Garden
The New York Botanical Garden offers 250 acres (100 ha)
of dazzling beauty and hands-on enjoyment. From
the nation’s most glorious Victorian glasshouse to the
12-acre (5-ha) Everett Children’s Adventure Garden, it
is alive with things to discover. One of the oldest and
largest botanical gardens in the world, it has 50 gardens
and plant collections, and 50 acres (20 ha) of uncut
forest. The spectacular Enid A. Haupt Conservatory Entrance to the Enid A. Haupt Conservatory
houses “A World of Plants,” with climates ranging from
misty tropical rain forests to dramatic deserts.
Seasonal
Exhibition
Galleries
Deserts of
Africa
1 Rock Garden
Rock outcroppings,
streams, a waterfall,
and a flower-rimmed
pond create an alpine
habitat for plants from
around the world.
2 Thain Family Forest
One of New York City’s last surviving natural
forest areas includes red oak, white ash, tulip
trees, and birch.
Deserts
of the
Entrance
Americas 3 Everett Children’s Adventure Garden
Kids can discover the wonders of ecology
and plants.
4 Peggy Rockefeller
Rose Garden
Over 2,700 rose bushes
have been planted in
the Rose Garden, laid
Entrance out in 1988 according
Locator Map to the 1916 design.
252-253_EW_New_York_City.indd 252 4/3/17 11:12 AM
F AR THER AFIELD 253
Palms of the VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Americas Gallery
A hundred majestic Practical Information
palms soar into a Kazimiroff Blvd, Bronx River
90-ft (27-m) glass Parkway (Exit 7W).
dome. A tranquil Tel (718) 817-8700.
reflecting pool is Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (until
surrounded by 5pm mid-Jan–Feb).
tropical plants.
Closed pub hols. & Free all day
Wed & 10am–noon Sat (grounds
only). 7 8 - = Lectures.
∑ nybg.org
5 The Enid A. Haupt
Conservatory consists Transport
of 11 interconnecting q 4, B, D to Bedford Park Blvd.
glass galleries housing @ Bx26.
“A World of Plants,”
including rain forests,
deserts, aquatic plants,
and seasonal exhibitions.
6 Garden Cafe
This is a delightful spot to enjoy
a meal. You can eat outside
on terraces overlooking
beautiful gardens.
7 Jane Watson
Conservatory
Irwin Perennial Garden
Flowering perennials are
arranged in dramatic patterns
according to height, shade,
color, and blooming time.
Tropical Lowland Rain
Forest Gallery
Courtyard Pool
8 Leon Levy Visitor Center
Aquatic Plants and This modern pavilion has a
Vines Gallery shop, a café, and a visitor
orientation facility.
Tropical 9 Tram
Upland Rain The half-hour tour of the
Forest Gallery gardens provides informa tion
about horticultural, educational,
and botanical research programs.
Passengers can alight at a
number of stops to explore
the gardens before reboarding.
252-253_EW_New_York_City.indd 253 4/3/17 11:12 AM
254 ne W y O r k c IT y A re A B y A re A
8 Bronx Zoo
Opened in 1899, the Bronx Zoo is the largest
urban zoo in the United States. It is home to
more than 4,000 animals of 500 species, which
live in realistic representations of their natural
habitats. The zoo is a leader in the perpetuation
of endangered species, such as the Indian
rhinoceros and the snow leopard. Its 265 acres
(107 ha) of woods, streams, and parklands
include, in season, a children’s zoo, the Butterfly . The Congo Gorilla Forest
This award-winning replica of a central
Garden, the Wild Asia Monorail, and camel African rain forest is home to the largest
rides. Other attractions include daily sea lion population of Western Lowland gorillas in the
feedings, a one-of-a-kind bug carousel, and a US, as well as a family of pygmy marmosets,
4-D theater experience. the world’s smallest monkeys.
Baboon Reserve
Visitors walk along a dry
riverbed to see wildlife
in an Ethiopian
mountain habitat.
Asia entrance
Camel Rides
Children enjoy such seasonal
experiences as camel rides
and other attractions.
. African Plains . JungleWorld
Wild dogs, zebras, lions, giraffes, A climate-controlled tropical rain forest
and gazelles roam the African harbors mammals, birds, and reptiles from
Plains. Predators and prey are South Asia. The animals are kept apart from Monkeys in
separated by a moat. visitors by ravines, streams, and cliffs. JungleWorld
254-255_EW_New_York.indd 254 06/04/16 11:59 am
F ar ther a F ield 255
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
2300 Southern Blvd, Bronx.
Tel (718) 367-1010.
Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri,
10am–5:30pm Sat & Sun (Nov–
Mar: 4:30pm daily). & by
Children’s Zoo Great donation Wed; separate fees
Kids can crawl through hornbill may apply to some exhibits.
a prairie dog tunnel, try on a 7 8 0 =
turtle shell, and pet and feed Children’s Zoo: Open Apr–Oct.
the animals.
∑ bronxzoo.com
Transport
. World of Birds q 2, 5 to E Tremont Ave.
Exotic birds soar free in the lush £ to Fordham.
surroundings of a rain forest. An @ Bx9, Bx12, Bx19, Bx22, Bx39,
Southern artificial waterfall rushes down BxM11, Q44.
Boulevard a 50-ft (15-m) fiberglass cliff in
this walk-through habitat.
entrance
KEY
1 4-D Theater
2 Wild Asia Monorail
3 Carter Giraffe Building
4 Dancing Crane Café
5 World of Reptiles
6 Butterfly Garden
7 The Zoo Center
8 Madagascar!
9 Aquatic Bird House
0 Sea Bird Colony
q Sea Lions
w Mouse-House
e Himalayan Highlands, a habitat
Fordham Road for endangered species, such as
entrance snow leopards and red pandas.
Bronx River entrance
. Wild Asia Monorail
From May to October, the monorail
journeys through forests and meadows, . Tiger Mountain
where rhinos, tigers, and Mongolian wild Amur tigers are on view all year. Only 1 inch (2.5 cm) of
horses roam free. glass separates visitors from these magnificent wild cats.
254-255_EW_New_York.indd 255 06/04/16 11:59 am
256 NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA
Queens 9,300-sq-ft (864-sq-m) pano r-
ama is the world’s largest
The city’s largest borough, Queens has a diverse variety of archi tectural model. It consists
attractions and a huge array of ethnic restaurants. From of 895,000 buildings, each one
the thriving Greeks, Egyptians and Bosnians in Astoria, carved out of wood, along with
to Woodside’s dynamic communities of Thais, Koreans and harbors, rivers, bridges, and
miniature airplanes gliding in
Filipinos; there’s a huge Chinatown in Flushing, plus Little and out of the airports.
India, Little Pakistan, Little Bangladesh and Little Colombia in Architect Aymar Embury III,
Jackson Heights – it’s a real melting pot of cultures. Long who also built Central Park Zoo,
Island City and Astoria also harbor major attractions. designed this grand structure in
a Modern-Classical style, with a
facade of colonnades supported
w Flushing was drained, and sewage works by limestone pilasters, trimmed
Meadows-Corona were built, helping to restore in dark, polished granite. The
Park the area. This site was to serve Queens Museum occupied
as the location for the 1939
the north side of the structure
q Willets Point-Shea Stadium. World’s Fair, at which a world on in 1972, with Rafael Viñoly
See Sports pp354–5. the brink of war saluted the bringing about the first
elusive notion of world peace. major renovation in 1994. After
The site of New York’s two World’s The Unisphere, symbol of another renovation in 2013, the
Fairs offers expansive waterside the 1964 fair, still dominates the galleries doubled in size. A large
picnic grounds and a multitude remains of the fairground. This glass facade was added, which
of attractions. These include the giant hollow ball of green steel, created a spacious, skylit atrium.
41,000-seat Citi Field stadium, built by the US Steel Corporation,
home of the New York Mets is 12 stories high and weighs
baseball team, and a popular a massive 350 tons.
site for rock concerts. Flushing
Meadows is also home to the
National Tennis Center (see p354– e Queens Museum
5), where the prestigious United New York City Building, Flushing
States Open is played. The courts Meadows-Corona Park. Tel (718) 592-
are open for would-be Nadals, 9700. q 111th St. Open noon–5pm
Sharapovas, and Federers for Wed–Sun. 7 - 8 free: 2pm, 3pm Interior of the Louis Armstrong
the remainder of the year. & 4pm Sun (English and Spanish). House Museum
In the 1920s this area was ∑ queensmuseum.org
known as the Corona Dump, r Louis Armstrong
a ghastly place of salt marshes Located next to the Unisphere, House Museum
and great piles of rotting the museum building is from
garbage. In The Great Gatsby, the 1939 World’s Fair, and is the 34–56 107th St. Tel (718) 478-8274.
author F. Scott Fitzgerald dubbed only remaining structure from q 103rd St-Corona Plaza.
it the “valley of ashes.” New the event. Originally designed Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, noon–5pm
York’s Parks’ Com missioner to house the New York City Sat & Sun. 8 hourly (4pm last tour).
∑ louisarmstronghouse.org
Robert Moses was the driving Pavilion, it later served as a
force behind its trans formation. recreation center. Today, the
A whole mountain of trash was galleries house temporary Legendary trumpeter Louis
removed, and the river was exhibitions, as well as two long- Armstrong (1901–71) lived here
totally rechanneled. The marsh term installations – the Neustadt from 1943 until his death in 1971,
Collection of Tiffany Glass, by when he was buried in the
Louis Comfort Tiffany, who nearby Flushing Cemetery. The
established his design studios in jazz artist’s relatively humble
the 1890s in Corona; and “From home has been preserved just
Watersheds to Faucets: The as he and his fourth wife, singer
Marvel of the NYC Water Supply Lucille Wilson, left it. Audio
System.” The star exhibit in the recordings made by Armstrong
latter is a large wood-and-plaster reveal every day goings-on
relief map of New York’s water- including Louis practicing his
supply system, created for the trumpet, enjoying a meal, or
1939 World’s Fair and kept chatting with friends. Guided
under wraps for decades. tours provide context to the
The museum’s other major displays and furnishings.
attraction is the Panorama of The visitors’ center across
The 1964 World’s Fair Unisphere at Flushing the City of New York, a product the street displays more of
Meadows-Corona Park of the 1964 World’s Fair. The Armstrong’s personal archives,
256-257_EW_New_York_City.indd 256 4/3/17 11:41 AM
F AR THER AFIELD 257
and concerts are sometimes garden was created to provide
held in the family’s garden behind an artistic space for visitors to
the house. In addition to Dizzy experience Noguchi’s creative
Gillespie and Cannonball vision. The garden is adorned
Adderley, who lived near with his stone sculptures, and
Armstrong, luminaries such as the surrounding galleries
Ella Fitzgerald, Count Basie, Lena display his exhibits. Noguchi
Horne, Fats Waller, and, briefly, is probably best remembered
Charles Mingus, called the for his work with the Herman
borough home. Miller company in 1947,
when he created the iconic
Noguchi table. He also designed
t Steinway & Sons the Red Cube installation,
which still stands outside the
1 Steinway Place, 19th Ave. Marine Midland Building in
Tel (718) 721-2600. q Ditmars Lower Manhattan.
Boulevard. 8 9:30am Tue, not
offered Jul & Aug. ∑ steinway.com The Socrates Sculpture Movie poster at the Museum of the
Park is a short stroll from Moving Image
Heinrich Steinweg (1797–1871) the museum. The park was
emigrated from Germany to created in 1986, when abstract Today, the studios house the
America in 1850. After anglicizing expressionist sculptor Mark largest moviemaking facilities
his name to Henry Steinway, he di Suvero converted an old on the East Coast.
founded Steinway & Sons in 1853. landfill into an outdoor studio. In 1981 one of the studio
The company gained recog nition Since then, several artists buildings was transformed into
for producing the finest pianos, have used the space to exhibit the Museum of the Moving
and rapidly expanded after it their work on a massive scale. Image. The museum displays
began winning prizes at inter- The museum also hosts events various memorabilia, from Ben
national trade fairs. In the such as free yoga classes, Hur’s chariot through to Star
1870s, Henry’s son, William, music performances, and a Trek costumes. Its main gallery
moved the factory from kite festival. draws from the permanent
Manhattan to Astoria. However, collection of over 85,000 movie
it was his great grand son, artifacts. State-of-the-art facilities
Henry Z. Steinway, who worked u Museum of include a 254-seat theater, a
here until his death in 2008. He the Moving Image video-screening amphitheater,
was the last family member to and Kaufman and an educational 71-seat
be president of the company. screening room.
About 1,250 Steinway grand Astoria Studio
pianos are built at the Queens 36-01 35th Ave at 36th St, Astoria.
complex every year, selling for Tel (718) 777-6888. q 36th St. i MoMA PS1,
anything from $40,000 to well Open 10:30am–5pm Wed–Fri (to Queens
above $100,000. Considered to 8pm Fri), 11:30am–7pm Sat & Sun.
be among the most complex, Screenings: 7pm Fri, afternoon and 22–25 Jackson at 46th Ave, Long
hand made objects, the pianos eves Sat & Sun. & (free 4–8pm Fri). Island City. Tel (718) 784-2084.
have 12,000 parts that are 8 2pm Sat & Sun. Closed Memorial q E, M to 23rd St-Ely Ave; 7 to 45
assembled over the course of Day, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. Studio: Road-Courthouse Square; G to Court
a year, using Canadian maple. Closed to public. 7 - = Sq or 21 St-Van Alst. @ B61, Q67.
∑ movingimage.us Open noon–6pm Thu–Mon.
Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & 7 -
∑ momaps1.org
y Noguchi Museum In New York’s filmmaking heyday,
& Socrates Rudolph Valentino, W. C. Fields, Housed in an elementary school,
Sculpture Park the Marx Brothers, and Gloria PS1 was founded in 1971 under a
Swanson all made films in the
scheme to transform abandoned
9-01 33rd Rd. Tel (718) 204-7088. Astoria Studio, which was city buildings into exhibition,
q Broadway, take the Q104 bus. opened in 1920 by Paramount performance, and studio spaces
Open 10am–5pm Wed–Fri, 11am– Pictures. When the movies went for artists. The museum is affiliated
6pm Sat & Sun. ∑ noguchi.org west, the army took over, making to the Museum of Modern Art
Socrates Sculpture Park: 32-01 Vernon training films from 1941 to 1971. (see pp168–71) and is one of the
Blvd. Tel (718) 956-1819. Open 10am– The complex stood empty until oldest art organizations in the US
sunset daily. 7-= 8 2pm Wed– 1977 when Astoria Motion Picture devoted solely to contemporary
Sun ∑ socratessculpturepark.org and Television Foundation was art. Temporary exhibitions are
created to preserve it. The Wiz, a hosted alongside permanent
Devoted to Japanese-American musical starring Michael Jackson works and many pieces are
abstract sculptor Isamu Noguchi and Diana Ross, was made here, interactive. In summer, music is
(1904–88), this museum and helping to pay for restoration. performed in the courtyard.
256-257_EW_New_York_City.indd 257 4/3/17 11:41 AM
258 NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA
Staten Island p Jacques Marchais
Museum of
Apart from the famous ferry ride, Staten Island and its Tibetan Art
attractions are not well known to New Yorkers in general.
Yet it would be a mistake to dismiss the “forgotten borough” 338 Lighthouse Ave. Tel (718) 987-
3500. @ S74 from ferry. Open 1–5pm
so readily. Visitors who venture beyond the ferry terminal Wed–Sun (Dec: Fri–Sun only).
will be pleasantly surprised to find hills, lakes, and greenery, Closed public hols. & 8 =
with expanses of open space, amazing harbor views, and ∑ tibetanmuseum.org
well-preserved early New York buildings. One of the biggest
surprises here is a cache of Tibetan art that is hidden away A hilltop provides a tranquil
in a replica of a Buddhist temple. setting for one of the largest
collections of privately owned
Tibetan art of the 15th to the
in 1898, and has been 20th centuries outside Tibet.
preserved as an The main building is a replica of
example of an early a mountain monastery with an
New York settlement. authentic altar in three tiers,
The Voorlezer’s crowded with gold, silver, and
House, built in the bronze figures.
Dutch style around The second building is used
1695, is the oldest as a library. The soothing garden
elementary school to has some stone sculptures,
be found in the country. including life-sized Buddhas. The
The Stephens General museum was completed in 1947
Store, which opened in by Mrs. Jacques Marchais, a dealer
1837, doubled as the in Asian art. The Dalai Lama paid
local post office – it has his first visit here in 1991.
been well restored, right
The Voorlezer House at Richmond down to the contents
of the shelves. The
o Historic complex, set on 100 acres (40 ha),
Richmond Town includes wagon sheds, a court-
house built in 1837, houses,
441 Clarke Ave. Tel (718) 351-1611. several shops, and a tavern. There
@ S74 from ferry. Open 1–5pm are also seasonal workshops
Wed–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Easter Sun, where traditional rural crafts are
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7 8 0 demonstrated to visitors.
= ∑ historicrichmondtown.org
St. Andrew’s Church, dating
to 1708, and its old graveyard
There are now 29 buildings, are just across the Mill Pond An old cottage at The Snug Harbor
some 14 of which are open to stream, and the Historical Cultural Center
the public, in New York’s only Society Museum is in the
restored village and outdoor County Clerk’s and Surrogate’s a The Snug Harbor
museum. The village was first Office. The toy room is a delight. Cultural Center &
named Cocclestown, after the Botanical Garden
local shellfish, but this was
soon corrupted to 1000 Richmond Terrace. Tel (718)
“Cuckolds town,” 448-2500. @ S40 from ferry to
much to the Snug Harbor Gate. Grounds:
annoyance of Open dawn–dusk daily. Art Gallery:
the residents. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
By the end of the Children’s Museum: Open noon–5pm
Revolutionary War, Tue–Sun (summer: 11am–5pm Tue–
the alternative Sun). Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving,
name of Dec 25. 7 limited.
∑ snug-harbor.org
Richmondtown
had been
adopted. The Founded in 1801 as an affluent
community retirement community for
was the county “aged, decrepit, and worn-
seat until Staten out sailors”, this became a
Cologne at the Island was made Sacred sculpture at the Jacques Marchais complex of museums, galleries,
General Store part of the city Museum of Tibetan Art gardens, and art centers in
258-259_EW_New_York_City.indd 258 4/3/17 11:12 AM
F AR THER AFIELD 259
1975. With an 83-acre (34-ha) home of the
leafy campus, the center has photographer
28 remaining buildings, that Alice Austen, who
range from grand Greek Revival- was born in 1866
style halls to sophisticated and who lived in
Italianate structures. The oldest this house for
is the beautiful, restored most of her life.
Main Hall (Building C), which Clear Comfort, former home of photographer Alice Austen She documented
functions as the Visitor Center. life on the island,
The adjacent Newhouse Center butterflies and a charming in Manhattan, and also
for Contemporary Art antique rose garden. The on trips to other parts of the
showcases local artists. tranquil Chinese Scholar’s country and on her travels
Other buildings house the Garden, with its goldfish to Europe. She lost all
award-winning Staten Island ponds, pagoda-roofed halls, her money in the stock
Children’s Museum, and the and bamboo groves, was market crash of 1929,
Noble Maritime Collection, built in 1999 by artists from and her poverty forced
which features prints and Suzhou, China. her into a public poorhouse
paintings created by the at the age of 84.
nautical painter John Noble One year later, her
(1913–83); visitors can view his s Alice photographic talent was
houseboat studio as well. The Austen House finally recognized by Life
Staten Island Museum relocated magazine, which published
to this complex in 2016 – the 2 Hylan Blvd. Tel (718) 816-4506. an article about her, earning
museum has a major exhibition @ S 51 from ferry to Hylan Blvd. her enough money to enter
on Staten Island history, Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun; grounds: a nursing home. She left
spanning three centuries. to dusk. Closed Jan, Feb, public hols. 3,500 negatives dating
Most of the Snug Harbor & Donation 7 limited. 8 = from 1880 to 1930.
∑ aliceausten.org
grounds belong to the Staten Today, the Friends
Island Botanical Garden. This small cottage, built around of Alice Austen House
Attractions here include an 1690, has the delightful name mounts exhibitions of
exhibit designed to attract of Clear Comfort. It was the her best work.
modernized, much to the
chagrin of local residents,
who fear that its character
will be lost. How ever, the
board walk still yields lovely
ocean views, and the Cyclone
rollercoaster has been
designated an official city
landmark. The Mermaid
Parade in June is a major
annual event.
Entrance to the New York Aquarium, Coney Island
d Coney Island Island, which was at that time
purely untamed Atlantic
q Stillwell Ave (D, F, N, Q), W 8th St
(F, Q). New York Aquarium Surf Ave coastline. By the 1920s, Coney
and W 8th St. Tel (718) 265-FISH. Island was billing itself as the
Open 10am–5pm daily (to 5:30pm Sat, “World’s Largest Playground,”
Sun, & hols). (Jun–Aug: to 6pm Mon– with three huge fairgrounds
Fri & 7pm Sat, Sun & hols; Nov–Mar: to providing hair-raising rides. The
4:30pm daily). & last adm: 45 mins subway arrived in 1920, and
before closing. - ∑ nyaquarium. the 1921 board walk ensured
com Coney Island Museum 1208 Surf Coney Island’s popularity
Ave, near W 12th St. Tel (718) 372-5159. throughout the Depression.
Open noon–6pm Sat, 2–6pm Sun A major attraction is the
(mid-Jun–Aug: noon–6pm Wed–Sat, New York Aquarium, with
2–6pm Sun). & ∑ coneyisland.com over 350 species. The Coney
Island Museum has memor-
In the mid-1800s, Brooklyn abilia, souvenirs, and relics of
poet Walt Whitman composed old rides. Coney Island is The iconic Cyclone rollercoaster at the
many of his works on Coney in the process of being Coney Island amusement park
258-259_EW_New_York_City.indd 259 4/3/17 11:12 AM
260-261_EW_New_York_City.indd 260 4/3/17 11:12 AM
NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA 261
SEVEN GUIDED WALKS
Walking in New York is an excellent way to book has a short walk on its Street-by-Street
discover the human scale of the city. The map, taking you past many of the interesting
following 16 pages explore the unique sights in that area.
character and charm of New York through Various organizations run walking tours of
seven thematic walks. These range from the city. These range from serious appraisals
an exploration of Greenwich Village and of archi tectural history to a guide to the ghosts
SoHo’s literary and artistic connections (see of Broadway. Details of tour organizers are listed
pp264–5) to a trip across the Brooklyn Bridge on page 381. Although New York is generally
for spectacular views and a glimpse of a safe place to roam, take care of your personal
19th-century New York (see pp270–71). belongings while walking (see pp366–7), as in
In addition, each of the 15 main areas any major city. Plan your route ahead and be
described in the Area by Area section of this extra cautious when exploring after dark.
Harlem
Riverfront promenade, Brooklyn (pp276–7)
(see pp270–71)
The Chinese Garden Court at the
Metropolitan Museum of Art,
Upper East Side (see pp268–9)
Greenwich Village
and SoHo
(pp264–5)
Key
• • • • Walk routes
Upper East Side
(pp268–9)
East Village
(pp274–5)
Waterfront
(pp272–3) Lower East Side,
Chinatown, and
Little Italy
(pp262–3)
Brooklyn
(pp270–71)
0 kilometers 4
0 miles 2
Walking across Brooklyn Bridge (see pp232–5)
260-261_EW_New_York_City.indd 261 4/3/17 11:12 AM
262 NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA
A 90-Minute Walk in the Lower East Side,
Chinatown, and Little Italy
This walk is through the old immigrant neighborhoods that along Grand Street, taking a left
have given New York its unique flavor, and illustrates the on Eldridge Street, which will
ever-changing texture of the city as neighborhoods are take you, just beyond Canal
rediscovered, and one set of newcomers replaces another. Street, to the grand Eldridge
Along the way you can experience a variety of cultures Street Synagogue 9 (12). The
first Eastern European synagogue
and cuisines. Sunday is the most lively day. See more in New York, the build ing also
about Lower East Side on pages 86–95. houses the Museum on Eldrige
Street, which provides extensive
The Lower East Side passing the iconic sweet shop insight into the Jewish community.
Begin on East Houston Street, the Economy Candy 5 open since
border between the Lower East 1937. On Rivington, cool fashion
Side (LES) and the East Village, shops share the blocks with the Key E A S T H O U S T O N S T R E E T
where some of the best traditional old. Now make a left onto Walk route 1
Jewish cuisine can be found at Orchard Street, the tradi tional 2
Yonah Schimmel Knish Bakery 1 center of the Jewish LES. 3
E S S E X S T R E E T
(137). In the same location since The LES is now home to
1920, Russ & Daughters, 2 (179) is cutting-edge boutiques, trendy B O W E R Y CHRYSTIE STREET ORCHARD STREET
run by the great-grandson of the clubs, and hip restaurants. Still, ST ANTON STREET 4
founder and famed for smoked every Sunday, the Orchard Street K E N M A R E S T R E E T FORSYTH STREET ELDRIDGE STREET
fish and caviar. Katz’s between Delancey ALLEN STREET NORFOLK STREET SUFFOLK STREET
RIVINGTON STREET
Delicatessen 3 to Houston is closed P A R K W A Y 5 CLINTON STREET
(205) has been a to traffic for a more Bowery LUDL OW STREET
J.Z
fixture for over 100 traditional clothes
years. Continue to market. The C E N T R E S T R E E T D E L A N C E Y S T R E E T
Norfolk Street and turn sidewalk stands w D . R O O S E V E L T Essex Street RIVINGTON STREET
F
right onto it to see the sell mostly cheap G R A N D S T 7 6
Angel Orensanz Center merchan dise, Delancey Street
ELIZABE TH STREET
J.M.Z
4 (172), housed in 6 An 1885 iron from the Lower East but many Canal St MOTT STREET Grand St S A R A
B.D
New York’s oldest Side Tenement Museum stores offer J.Z HESTER ST FORSYTH STREET ELDRIDGE STREET BROOME STREET
synagogue building. discount SUFFOLK STREET
Turn right onto Rivington Street, designer leather and fashion. CHRYSTIE STREET CLINTON STREET
A historical highlight is the BAYARD ST 8
Tips for Walkers Lower East Side Tenement 0 ALLEN STREET G R A N D S T R E E T
J
Museum 6 (108). An original q T CANAL STREET ORCHARD STREET
Starting point: East Houston St. tenement has been restored LUDL OW STREET ESSEX STREET
Length: 2 miles (3.2 km). to show how different MULBERRY S MOTT ST
Getting there: Take the subway immigrant families lived B O W E R Y 9 W H SEW ARD
F or V to Second Avenue; exit East from 1874 to the 1930s. DIVISION STREET P ARK
Houston at Eldridge. Other stops: Take a short detour to the right East Broadway F STRAUS
F to Delancey; J, M, Z to Essex. The down Broome Street for another E A S T B R O A D W A Y SQUARE
M15 bus stops on East Houston unique survivor, the Kehila E A S T B R O A D W A Y
and on the corner of Delancey Kedosha Janina Synagogue and
and Allen Streets; M14A and M9
run along Essex Street. Returning Museum 7 (280), a small but
from Chinatown-Little Italy, fascinating congregation with 0 meters
Canal Street station is served by a little upstairs museum. 500
the J, N, Q, R, and 6 trains. Return to Orchard Street, 0 yards 500
Stopping-off points: This walk is continuing along to the right.
designed to take 90 minutes with- A left at Grand
out any stops. Little Italy’s cafés are Street will bring
perfect for coffee and cakes. For you into New
more substantial fare, Hop Kee at York’s former
21 Mott Street is good for Chinese “pickle district”
food, or for Italian on Mulberry on Essex. At The
Street, Il Cortile (125) or Il Palazzo Pickle Guys
(151). Il Laboratorio del Gelato, at store 8 (49),
188 Ludlow Street, is a popular you can sample
spot in summer, offering dozens sour, half-sour,
of flavors of ice cream and sorbet.
and hot pickles.
Head back Clothes vendors at Orchard Street market
262-263_EW_New_York_City.indd 262 4/3/17 11:12 AM
SE VEN GUIDED W ALKS 263
Chinatown black sesame, taro, and
Turn around and return zen butter, as well as more
to Canal Street, pausing to traditional ones. Turn back and
admire the spire of the Chrysler walk to Mulberry Street. The
Building and the city sky line curve next to Columbus Park
in view in the distance from was Mulberry Bend q, once
Eldridge. Turn left into Canal notorious for gang murders
and cross the Bowery – as you and mayhem.
continue, the shops give way to
stalls selling an exotic array of
vegetables, and restaurants
with rows of roast ducks in
the windows. At 200 Canal
2 Russ & Daughters Street is New Kam Man. One
of the largest Chinese markets
in the area, it is a fascinating
place to explore. Turn left from
1 Canal on to Mott Street, and
E A S T H O U S T O N S T R E E T
2 3 you’ll know you are
right in the
B O W E R Y CHRYSTIE STREET FORSYTH STREET ELDRIDGE STREET ORCHARD STREET E S S E X S T R E E T NORFOLK STREET 4 e An Italian deli in Little Italy
ALLEN STREET
ST ANTON STREET
K E N M A R E S T R E E T
RIVINGTON STREET
5
C E N T R E S T R E E T w G R A N D S T D . R O O S E V E L T P A R K W A Y 7 LUDL OW STREET Essex Street SUFFOLK STREET CLINTON STREET Little Italy
Bowery
J.Z
Walk up Mulberry Street toward
Grand Street, and you are
suddenly in Little Italy w.
F
D E L A N C E Y S T R E E T
Small in area though it is, and
RIVINGTON STREET
MOTT STREET
ELIZABE TH STREET
J.M.Z
this is a colorful few blocks of
B.D
Canal St Grand St S A R A 6 Delancey Street encroached on by Chinatown,
J.Z HESTER ST CHRYSTIE STREET FORSYTH STREET ELDRIDGE STREET BROOME STREET SUFFOLK STREET Old-World restaurants, coffee
shops, and stores selling home-
and pastries.
0 ALLEN STREET 8 G R A N D S T R E E T CLINTON STREET made pasta, sausages, breads,
The Italian
BAYARD ST
J
q T CANAL STREET ORCHARD STREET LUDL OW STREET population has
MULBERRY S MOTT ST B O W E R Y 9 ESSEX STREET dwindled over
the years, but a
staunch group
W H SEW ARD
P ARK
DIVISION STREET
East Broadway
remains,
F STRAUS of merchants
SQUARE
E A S T B R O A D W A Y determined
E A S T B R O A D W A Y to retain the
area’s Italian
Columbus Park in bustling Chinatown atmosphere.
Their stronghold is Mulberry
500 heart of Chinatown by all the Street, between Broome and
Chinese neon signs. There Canal streets, with a few shops
are hundreds of restaurants holding their own on Grand
here, from holes-in-the-wall Street near Mulberry. If you
to haute cuisine, all offering continue to walk on Grand,
a chance to taste authentic however, you are quickly back
Chinese food. For spiritual into Chinatown.
sustenance, visit the Eastern The big event of the year is the
States Buddhist Temple 0 Feast of San Gennaro, named for
in Mott Street (64b). the patron saint of Naples. For 11
At Bayard Street, stop off nights in September, Mulberry
for an ice cream at the Street is jammed with locals and
Chinatown Ice Cream Factory visitors enjoying the parades
(65), which offers decidedly and the Italian food, with rows
New Kam Man at 200 Canal Street unusual flavors, such as of sizzling sausage stalls.
For keys to symbols see back flap
262-263_EW_New_York_City.indd 263 4/3/17 11:12 AM
264 NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA
A 90-Minute Walk in
Greenwich Village and SoHo
A stroll through the patchwork quilt of streets in Greenwich
Village takes you to where New York’s best-known writers and
artists have lived, worked, and played. It ends with a tour
of SoHo’s impressive cast-iron buildings, galleries, and shops.
For more details on sights in Greenwich Village, see pages
102–111, and for SoHo sights, see pages 96–101.
e Facade in Washington Mews
Writers House. A passageway
at the front once led up to the gathering spot, to Christopher
Tile Club, a gathering place Street and the Northern GREENWICH AVE
for the artists of the Tenth Dispensary 7. WEST 12TH STREET
Street Studio, where Augustus Follow Grove Street along 5 4
Saint-Gaudens, John LaFarge, Christopher Park to Sheridan A V E N U E 6 WEST 11TH STREET
and Winslow Homer lived. Square, the busy hub WEST 10TH ST PLACE WAVERLEY 3
Mark Twain lived at 24 West of the Village. The Christopher St- 2 WEST 10TH STREET
Sheridan Sq
10th Street, and Edward Circle Repertory WEST 10TH STREET 1 7 1 FIFTH AVENUE
Albee resided at 50 West 10th. Theater 8, which CHRISTOPHER STREET 9 GROVE ST 8 AVENUE OF THE AMERICAS (6TH AVE) UNIVERSITY PLACE
Back across Sixth Avenue is premiered plays by 0 q w WASHINGTON
WAVERLY
Milligan Place 4, with 19th- Pulitzer Prizewinner S T R E E T S E V E N T H PLACE MEWS EAST 10TH STREET
century houses, and Patchin Lanford Wilson, is BEDFORD STREET WASHINGTON e EAST 9TH STREET
Place 5, where the poets E. E. now closed. WEST 4TH STREET EAST 8TH ST
SQ PARK
Cummings and John Masefield Cross Seventh WASHINGTON STREET Washington Sq J 8th St-NYU
West 4th St-
both lived. Farther on is the site Avenue and G R E E N W I C H CARMINE ST A.B.C.D.E.F.M r WAVERLY PLACE N.R
of the Ninth Circle bar 6, which continue on Grove HUDSON STREET A V E ) WASHINGTON PL
2 The imposing building of Jefferson when it opened in 1898 was Street. At the BLEECKER STREET
Market Courthouse known as “Regnaneschi’s.” It corner of Bedford Houston ( 6 T H LA GUARDIA PLACE
Street
was the subject of John Sloan’s Street, you can’t miss 1 MERCER STREET
West 10th Street painting Regnaneschi’s Saturday “Twin Peaks” 9 (102 Bedford), a B R O A D W A Y
The junction of West 8th Street Night. Playwright Edward Albee home for artists in the 1920s. BLEECKER STREET
and 6th Avenue 1 has many first saw the question “Who’s Turn back around to look at the A M E R I C A S WEST HOUSTON ST
music and clothing stores afraid of Virginia Woolf?” northeast corner of Bedford and SULLIVAN STREET Broadway-
nearby. Walk up Sixth to West scrawled on a mirror here. Grove streets 0 – the exterior Spring St THOMPSON STREET Lafayette St
B.D.F.M
Ninth Street to see (on the of this edifice had a recurring C.E WOOSTER STREET
left at 425) Jefferson Market role in the TV sitcom Friends T H E SPRING GREENE STREET
Courthouse 2. as the charac ters’ apartment
Turn right at West 10th Street building. 75½ Bedford is O F
3 to the Lillian Vernon Creative the narrowest house in the WEST BROADWAY MERCER STREET Prince St
N.R
Village, and was once the A V E N U E
STREET
Tips for Walkers home of feminist poet Edna BROADWAY
St. Vincent Millay. Head along t BROOME
Starting point: 8th St/6th Ave. Bedford, then left up Carmine Canal St
A.C.E
Length: 2 miles (3.2 km). to Sixth Avenue and turn GRA ND STRE ET STREET
Getting there: Take subway right at Waverly Place. At CANAL
train A, B, C, D, E, or F to West 116 Waverly q, Anne
4th Street-Washington Square Charlotte Lynch, an English
station (8th Street exit). Fifth teacher, held weekly gatherings LISPENARD STREET
Avenue buses M2 and M3 stop in her town house for such
at 8th Street. From here, walk eminent friends as Herman STREET
one block west to 6th. The M5 W A L K E R S T
bus loops near Washington Melville and Edgar Allan Poe,
Square along 8th Street and who gave his first reading of
up Sixth Avenue. The Raven here.
Stopping-off points: This walk A detour left of just half
is designed to take 90 minutes 9 The unusual exterior of “Twin Peaks” a block will bring you to
without any stops. The Little Owl, MacDougal Alley w, a lane
90 Bedford St, is good for lunch. of carriage houses in which
Fanelli’s Café, 94 Prince Street, has Greenwich Village Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney
been serving customers since Turn left at Waverly Place past had her studio. She opened the
1847 and was once a speakeasy. the Three Lives Book store (154 first Whitney Museum here in
West 10th St), a typical literary 1932, just behind the studio.
For keys to symbols see back flap
264-265_EW_New_York_City.indd 264 4/3/17 11:12 AM
SE VEN GUIDED W ALKS 265
Washington Square
From MacDougal, turn left
to Washington Square North,
to see the finest Greek Revival
houses in the United States.
Built of red brick, they have
marble balustrades and
en trances flanked by columns.
Writer Henry James set his
Washington Square in No. 18,
his grandmother’s home.
Washington Square Park and Arch
WEST 12TH STREET 4
A V E N U E 6 5 WEST 11TH STREET SoHo
Walk south on Thompson, a
GREENWICH AVE
WEST 10TH ST PLACE WAVERLEY 3 typical Village street lined with
Christopher St- bars, cafés, and shops. Turn left at
WEST 10TH STREET Sheridan Sq 1 7 1 2 WEST 10TH STREET FIFTH AVENUE Houston, SoHo’s northern limit,
CHRISTOPHER STREET 9 0 GROVE ST 8 AVENUE OF THE AMERICAS (6TH AVE) PLACE WASHINGTON UNIVERSITY PLACE and right onto West Broadway,
S E V E N T H
S T R E E T
lined with some of the city’s
q
WAVERLY
w
MEWS
most famous galleries along
WASHINGTON STREET G R E E N W I C H BEDFORD STREET CARMINE ST Washington Sq WASHINGTON e WAVERLY PLACE 8th St-NYU with a large number of chic
EAST 10TH STREET
and arty boutiques.
SQ PARK
EAST 9TH STREET
J
EAST 8TH ST
Turn left at Spring Street
West 4th St-
WEST 4TH STREET
N.R
HUDSON
r
for yet more tempting shops,
A.B.C.D.E.F.M
STREET
which is the heart of the Cast-
B R O A D W A Y
Houston A V E ) BLEECKER STREET WASHINGTON PL then right at Greene Street t,
Iron Historic District. Many
Street ( 6 T H LA GUARDIA PLACE
1 MERCER STREET of these fine buildings now
A M E R I C A S WEST HOUSTON ST Fifth Avenue Turn left at the end of Greene
house high-end stores.
Pause at
Street onto Canal Street, the
THOMPSON STREET
BLEECKER STREET
to look back
Broadway-
the atmosphere of New York
Spring St SULLIVAN STREET Lafayette St at Washington end of SoHo, to see how quickly
B.D.F.M
C.E WOOSTER STREET Square Park, can change. This noisy street
T H E SPRING GREENE STREET with its famous is full of hawkers and discount
Washington Square
O F Prince St Arch. Go across to Two electronics stores. You can
explore bargains for the next
A V E N U E WEST BROADWAY MERCER STREET BROADWAY N.R an elegant carriage house two blocks and then turn left
Fifth Avenue; opposite
is Washington Mews e,
up Broadway. Keen shoppers
STREET
can turn right back onto Spring
Canal St t BROOME complex. John Dos Passos, Street and head for the NoLita
A.C.E Edward Hopper, and Rockwell district, featuring clothing stores
Kent lived in the studio at by trendy, aspiring designers.
STREET
No. 14a at various times.
G RAND STRE ET
CANAL
Go back up Washington
Square North, past some elegant
houses. Writer Edith Wharton
lived at No. 7. Now walk
LISPENARD STREET
beneath the arch and across
STREET
Washington Square Park. On
W A L K E R S T
the right, as you leave the park,
is the fine Judson Memorial
Church and Tower r by
0 meters 500
Stanford White and the
0 yards 500 Kimmel Center for University
Life. The Center was built on
Key the site of a boarding house,
known as the “house of genius,”
Walk route
where Theodore Dreiser wrote
An American Tragedy. t Cast-iron facade, Greene Street
Footbridge and colorful trees in Central Park
264-265_EW_New_York_City.indd 265 4/3/17 11:12 AM
266-267_EW_New_York.indd 266 06/04/16 12:00 pm
266-267_EW_New_York.indd 267 06/04/16 12:00 pm
268 NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA
A Two-Hour Walk in the Upper East Side
A promenade along upper Fifth Avenue and its environs will
take you past the best remaining examples of New York’s
turn-of-the-20th century gilded age. A stroll through the old
German district of Yorkville leads to Gracie Mansion, official
residence of the city’s mayor, dating from 1799. For details
on Upper East Side sights, see pages 178–97.
i
From the Frick to the Met Third, is a fine row of town
Begin at the Frick mansion 1, houses 5. Back on Fifth R e s e r v o i r p EAST 93 RD STREET
built in 1913–14 for millionaire Avenue, walk to 75th Street, to o EAST 92ND STREET
Henry Clay Frick and see No. 1,
home to an exquisite the former EAST 91ST STREET u
art collec tion (pp196– residence of
7). Many such MA D ISO N AV ENU E A V E N U E
mansions were
built as New York’s
wealthiest families P A R K EAST 90TH ST
outdid each other M I L E )
with miniature 86th Street
4.5.6
Versailles châteaux
and Venetian q ( M U S E U M
LEXINGTON AVE
palazzos. Most of 0 A V E N U E
those still standing EAST 84TH E A S T 8 6 T H y E A S T 8 9 T H S T R E E T
have now become EAST 83RD w E A S T 8 8 T H S T R E E T
either institutions or y Church of the Holy Trinity A V E N U E M A D I S O N STREET e E A S T 8 7 T H S T R E E T
museums. The apartment 9 EAST 82ND S T R E E T
building opposite the Frick is 8 STREET t
typical of those where today’s C E N T R A L P A R K 7 PARK AVENUE STREET
affluent New Yorkers live. F I F T H E A S T A V E N U E EAST 85TH STREET r
East on Madison at the EAST 77TH ST EAST 81ST A V E N U E
corner of 72nd Street, is 6 EAST 80TH F I R S T EAST 83RD J
CARL
the big Polo-Ralph Lauren STREET EAST 82ND SCHURZ
EAST 84TH STREET
store 2, the 1898 French 77th Street 6 A V E N U E STREET Y O R K STREET EAST END AVENUE P ARK
Renaissance home of 4 EAST 75TH STREET EAST 78TH
A V E N U E
Gertrude Rhinelander 3 EAST 74TH STREET LEXINGTON AVENUE 7 9 T H S T R E E T STREET
Waldo. Wander inside STREET
EAST 77TH
to see the elegant 1 EAST 73RD STREET T H I R D STREET
restored interior. 2 EAST 72ND STREET EAST 76TH STREET
Walk back toward 5 S E C O N D
Fifth on the north EAST 71ST STREET EAST 75TH ST
side of 72nd, past two EAST 70TH STREET
limestone beauties that once EAST 69TH STREET EAST 74 TH ST
housed the Lycée Français de EAST 73RD ST
New York 3. Continue along
Fifth Avenue to 73rd Street. 0 meters 500
Turn east to 11, Joseph château is now the New York
Pulitzer’s former home 4. 0 yards 500 University Institute of Fine Arts 7.
A few blocks on, At 79th Street and Fifth, the
between Lexington and Edward S. Harkness, son former home of financier
of a founder of Payne Whitney, is the French
Standard Oil. It Embassy 8, and nearby at
is now the 2 East 79th is the Ukrainian
Common- Institute 9. On the southeast
wealth Fund corner of 82nd Street you’ll
6. At 1 East find Duke-Semans House 0,
78th, the tob- one of the few grand Fifth
acco million- Avenue residences that are
aire James still privately owned. The
B. Duke’s Metropolitan Museum of Art
18th-century q, at 82nd Street, warrants a
9 The facade of the Ukrainian Institute French-style full day’s visit.
268-269_EW_New_York_City.indd 268 4/3/17 11:12 AM
SE VEN GUIDED W ALKS 269
Tips for Walkers
Starting point: Frick Collection.
Length: 3 miles (4.8 km).
Getting there: Take subway train
6 to 68th Street and Lexington,
then walk west (left) three blocks
to Fifth Avenue. Or take the M1,
M2, M3, or M4 bus up Madison
Avenue to 70th Street and walk
i one block west.
R e s e r v o i r o p EAST 92ND STREET restaurant at the Guggenheim
Stopping-off points: Try the
museum. Head to Café Sabarsky
EAST 93 RD STREET
MA D ISO N AV ENUE A V E N U E u Turn east on 86th Heidelberg Café and German St) for Austrian food, or try the
at the Neue Galerie (5th Ave/86th
Carl Schurz Park promenade
Heidelberg Café (2nd Ave off
EAST 91ST STREET
Yorkville
86th St) for authentic Bavarian.
Madison Avenue between 92nd
deli Schaller & Weber e for a
and 93rd has many places to eat,
Street for what is left of
dogs (179 East 86th Street).
M I L E ) P A R K 86th Street EAST 90TH ST German Yorkville – after break, or try Papaya King’s hot including Sarabeth’s, with its
excellent weekend brunch.
Bremen House w, cross
East River and Gracie Mansion
Second Avenue,
4.5.6
( M U S E U M A V E N U E Avenue is a cluster of 24 Queen
q then stop at Henderson Place r at East End
LEXINGTON AVE
Anne town houses. Carl Schurz
y
0 EAST 83RD E A S T 8 6 T H E A S T 8 7 T H S T R E E T Park opposite was named for the
w
M A D I S O N
city’s most prominent
A V E N U E
EAST 84TH
e
German immigrant,
C E N T R A L P A R K F I F T H 7 9 PARK AVENUE EAST 82ND STREET A V E N U E t promenade atop
E A S T 8 9 T H S T R E E T
editor of Harper’s
STREET
E A S T 8 8 T H S T R E E T
S T R E E T
8
Weekly and the New
STREET
York Post. The park
E A S T
East River Drive leads
EAST 81ST
6 EAST 77TH ST EAST 80TH EAST 83RD A V E N U E r J to a view of Hell Gate,
EAST 85TH STREET
STREET F I R S T CARL where the Harlem River,
EAST 84TH STREET
77th Street 6 STREET EAST 82ND Y O R K STREET EAST END AVENUE SCHURZ Long Island Sound, and
P ARK
LEXINGTON AVENUE 7 9 T H S T R E E T STREET back of Gracie Mansion t, the o The Cooper-Hewitt Museum
4 EAST 75TH STREET A V E N U E EAST 78TH New York harbor meet. From
A V E N U E
3 STREET
the walkway you can see the
EAST 77TH
EAST 74TH STREET
1 EAST 73RD STREET T H I R D STREET mayor’s official residence. Walk Carnegie Hill
2 EAST 76TH STREET northwest on 88th Street past the Back on Fifth Avenue, turn down
5 S E C O N D Key Church of the Holy Trinity y. Turn town past the Felix Warburg
EAST 72ND STREET
right onto Lexington Ave nue,
Walk route
EAST 71ST STREET
Museum i, and continue to
then left onto 92nd Street and Mansion of 1908, now the Jewish
EAST 75TH ST
west past two of the few wooden 91st Street and the huge Andrew
EAST 70TH STREET
EAST 74 TH ST
houses left in Manhattan u. Carnegie home, now the Cooper
EAST 69TH STREET
EAST 73RD ST
Hewitt, Smithsonian Design
Museum o. Built in 1902 in the
style of an English country manor,
it gave the area the unofficial
name of Carnegie Hill. The James
Burden House p at 7 East 91st
Street, built for Vanderbilt heiress
Adele Sloan in 1905, has a spiral
staircase under a stainedglass
skylight that was known in society
as “the stairway to heaven.” At
1 East 91st, the financier Otto
Kahn’s Italian Renaissancestyle
residence was a show place with
a drivethrough porch and interior
courtyard. Like the Burden
House, it is now the Convent
i Wooden houses on 92nd Street of the Sacred Heart School.
For keys to symbols see back flap
268-269_EW_New_York_City.indd 269 4/3/17 11:12 AM
270 NE w Y ork ci TY A r EA BY A r EA
A Three-Hour Walk in Brooklyn
A trip across New York’s most famous crossing leads to Brooklyn
Heights, the city’s first suburb. This neighborhood has a 19th-century
feel, mixed with a hint of Middle Eastern cultures. The riverfront Brooklyn Bridge-City Hall
promenade has unrivaled views of Manhattan. For more 4.5.6
550 yards/500m
details on sights in Brooklyn, see pages 226–41.
Manhattan
Manhattan Bridge
from here. In Brooklyn
Bridge
1814, this was
the depot for
the ferry EMPIRE-
FUL TON
connecting E a s t R i v e r J FERR Y P ARK
Brooklyn and 3
Manhattan Island. 2 WATER STREET
This transformed 4
Fire Station on Old Fulton Street Brooklyn Heights BROOKL YN PLAZA W FRONT STREET
BRIDGE
CADMAN
from a predomin- P ARK COLUMBIA HEIGHTS
Fulton Ferry Landing antly farming
Brooklyn Bridge yields truly area to a residential 1
thrilling views of the lower district. The area FURMAN STREET 5 STREET
MIDDAGH
New York skyline and prize is full of charac- CRANBERRY
STREET
photo opportunities. Take a taxi ter and is still a ORANGE ST HENRY ST High Street
or, if you have time, walk across very popular PINEAPPLE ST 6 A.C
it to Brooklyn. place to live.
On the far side, follow the To the right is 4 Eagle Warehouse 7 COLUMBIA HEIGHTS Clark Street
Tillary Street sign to the right, the River Café J8 J 2.3 CADMAN PLAZA EAST
turn right at the bottom of 3. This restaurant’s fine BROOKLYN QUEENS EXPRESSWAY WILLOW STREET CLARK ST
the stairs, then take the first cuisine and spectacular views was HICKS STREET
path through the park and of the Manhattan skyline make editor TILLARY ADAMS STREET STREET
walk down Cadman Plaza it one of New York’s most of the PIERREPONT STREET
West 1 under the Brooklyn- exceptional dining spots. Brooklyn 9 MONTAGUE STREET q CLINTON STREET Court St
Queens Expressway; here Double back past the former Eagle. REMSEN STREET R
Cadman becomes Old Fulton Eagle Warehouse 4 built in 1893. He set the 0
Street. You can see the bridge type for his STREET w JAY ST REET
on the right as you head to Brooklyn Heights Leaves of J O R A L E M O N J Borough Hall
the river at Water Street and the From the landing, turn right to Grass at a 2.3.4.5
Jay Street
Fulton Ferry landing 2. During steep Everitt Street up Columbia print shop HENRY S T R E E T Metro Tech
the Revolutionary War, George Heights, on to Middagh Street, near the A.C.F.R
Washington’s troops fled to and along the streets of Brooklyn corner of STATE STREET CLINT O N STREET FULTON
Heights. 24 Middagh 5 is Cranberry and
BOERUM PLACE
one of the area’s oldest Fulton. The ATLANTIC AVE COURT STREET STREET
houses, built in 1824. town houses e LIVING STONE ST LIVINGSTONE STREET
Next turn right on now on the S M I T H ST R EE T
Willow and left on site are called
Cranberry; here the town Whitman Close. STATE STREET HOYT ST
Hoyt-
houses range from Turn right along Hicks. The Schermerhorn
wooden clap boards to Hicks family, local farmers, Streets BOND STREET
A.C.G
brick Federal-style to inspired the name “hick” for a PACIFIC STREET
brownstones. Except for yokel. Turn left on Orange Street AT L A N T I C A V E N U E NEVINS STREET
cars and a few modern to the Plymouth Church 6,
STATE STREET
buildings, you could be in home of Henry
the 19th century. Ward Beecher, PACIFIC STREET
Many famous peo ple an antislavery Atlantic Ave
have lived here. Truman preacher. His J 2.3.4.5
Capote wrote Breakfast at sister, Harriet r
Tiffany’s and In Cold Blood Beecher 3RD AVE
in the basement of 70 Stowe,
Willow, and Arthur Miller wrote Uncle
once owned 155 Willow. Tom’s Cabin.
Walt Whit man lived on Meander Truman Capote with
3 Entrance to the River Café Cranberry Street when he along Henry feathered friend
270-271_EW_New_York.indd 270 06/04/16 12:00 pm
se ven guided w alks 271
and Pineapple streets. At Clark The Promenade
Street are marquees of once- At Montague, turn onto the
luxurious hotels, such as the riverfront Promenade 8. A tablet
Towers. Follow Clark Street at the entrance marks the
to 142 Columbia Heights, site of Four Chimneys,
Brooklyn Bridge-City Hall
4.5.6 where Norman Mailer the house where
550 yards/500m lived 7. Washington George Washington
Roebling, architect of lived during the The old Montague Street trolley, which
Manhattan the Brooklyn Bridge, Battle of Long led to the river and the ferry
Bridge
lived at 110. Island. Walk a little
Brooklyn farther for a stunning Montague and
Bridge
view of Lower Clinton Streets
E a s t R i v e r 3 J FERR Y P ARK will make you the heart of Brooklyn Heights,
Manhattan that
Once back on Montague, walk to
EMPIRE-
FUL TON
catch your
with its cafés and boutiques. The
baseball team, the Brooklyn
breath. Savor
2
this scene,
WATER STREET
Angeles in 1958, got their name
then turn Dodgers, who relocated to Los
4 FRONT STREET
BROOKL YN PLAZA W inland from dodging the trolley cars
BRIDGE 6 Statue of preacher
CADMAN
P ARK COLUMBIA HEIGHTS Henry Ward Beecher again, on that once ran down the street.
Montague.
Walk to the intersection of
FURMAN STREET ORANGE ST 5 6 HENRY ST 1 High Street Here, make a quick detour right Montague and Clinton to see the
stained glass of the 1834 Church
to 1 Montague Terrace 9, where
MIDDAGH
STREET
of St. Ann and the Holy Trinity 0.
the English poet W. H. Auden
CRANBERRY
BROOKLYN QUEENS EXPRESSWAY WILLOW STREET PINEAPPLE ST J CLARK ST TILLARY ADAMS STREET living at 5 Montague. Historical Society q. A block
STREET
Walk a block left on Clinton to
lived. Thomas Wolfe finished Of
COLUMBIA HEIGHTS
A.C
Pierrepont Street for the Brooklyn
Time and the River while he was
CADMAN PLAZA EAST
farther, at Court Street, is the
7
Clark Street
J8
1849 Borough Hall w, and the
Tips for Walkers
2.3
HICKS STREET
subway back to Manhattan.
Starting point: Brooklyn Bridge.
Length: 3½ miles (5.5 km).
q CLINTON
4, 5, or 6 on the Lexington Ave
STREET
9
PIERREPONT STREET
line to Brooklyn Bridge-City Hall
MONTAGUE STREET
R Court St STREET Getting there: Take subway train
0 (nearest stop to the bridge). The
REMSEN STREET
M15 Second Ave bus also stops at
STREET w JAY ST REET City Hall. Returning to Manhattan,
Borough Hall take train 2, 3, 4, 5, M, N, or R from
2.3.4.5 Borough Hall; or 2, 3, 4, 5, M, N, R,
J
J O R A L E M O N
HENRY S T R E E T Metro Tech or Q from Atlantic Ave. Brooklyn’s Dodgers, who got their name
Jay Street
CLINT O N STREET FULTON 80 Montague St, has Polish from dodging trolley cars
A.C.F.R
Stopping-off points: Teresa’s,
COURT STREET
dishes at reasonable prices. Try
STATE STREET
BOERUM PLACE
STREET
S M I T H ST R EE T
dining in Brooklyn Heights. For
e LIVING STONE ST LIVINGSTONE STREET Henry’s End, 44 Henry St, for fine Atlantic Avenue
Another option is to stay on
ATLANTIC AVE
light meals visit acclaimed deli
Clinton Street and walk the
Mile End, 97A Hoyt St, or Iris Café,
five short blocks to Atlantic
HOYT ST
Hoyt-
a whole string of Middle Eastern
Schermerhorn 20 Columbia Place. Avenue. A left turn here leads to
STATE STREET
Streets emporia, such as Sahadi’s e
A.C.G BOND STREET (at 187 Atlantic Avenue), which
NEVINS STREET stocks a huge selection of foods.
PACIFIC STREET
The Damascus Bakery at 195
STATE STREET
makes the most delicious filo
AT L A N T I C A V E N U E
pastries. Various other shops
here sell Arabic books, tapes,
PACIFIC STREET
Atlantic Ave
2.3.4.5 DVDs, and CDs.
J
At Flatbush Avenue, look
3RD AVE r left to the Brooklyn Academy
Key of Music (BAM) r and the grand
front of the Williamsburg
Walk route
Savings Bank. Watch for signs
0 meters 500 to the subway for your journey
0 yards 500 back to Manhattan.
For keys to symbols see back flap
270-271_EW_New_York.indd 271 06/04/16 12:00 pm
272 NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA
A 90-Minute Waterfront Walk
From the breezy Battery Park City Esplanade with its sweeping
river views and upscale condos to the magnificent schooners
moored at South Street Seaport, this waterfront route
introduces you to New York’s formidable maritime legacy. The
concrete jungle may lie just a few blocks inland, yet it seems
worlds away, as the bleating horns and hiss of the crosstown
buses are blessedly muffled. Stroll the green tip of Battery Park
for a startling reminder that Manhattan is, in fact, an island.
For more about Lower Manhattan, see pages 66–85.
“greenbelt.” Climb to the Wagner
Park lookout point 4 for The Statue of Liberty, as seen from the
vistas of the Hudson River. waterfront promenade
Here, information panels
chronicle New York City’s
seafaring history, when
grand schooners and
coastal packets plied BATTERY
these waters. PARK ALB ANY STREET
CITY
Battery Place 1 RECTOR ZUCCOTTI
On Battery Place, SOUTH END AVENUE PARK MAIDEN LA NE
WASHINGTON STREET
PLACE
visit the Museum L I BERTY STR E E T
5 The many photographs at the Museum of Jewish Heritage LIBERTY PLACE NASSAU ST S T J O H N S T R E E T
PLAZA
of Jewish Heritage 5 (see p76) and its WEST THAMES STREET Rector St Wall St
1.R
LEGION
outdoor Garden W E S T S I D E H I G H W AY 9 A ( W E S T S T ) G R EENWI C H S TREET 4.5 W I L L I A M S T R E E T r
SQUARE
Battery Park City of Stones, a calm, J 2 T H I RD P L A C E Broad St WATER ST BEEKMAN ST
J.Z
Begin your walk on the elegant space of TRIN ITY ST JOHN STREET e
Esplanade 1 near Rector Place dwarf oak saplings W A L L P E A R L S T R E E T FULTON STREET
Park, west of the Rector Street growing out of SE C O ND PL A C E Wall St FLETCHER ST Pier 17
P I N E S T R E E T
subway stop. Across the Hudson boulders. Since B R O A D W A Y EXC HANGE PLACE MA I D E N L ANE S O U T H S T R E ET
S O U T H S T R E E T V I A D U C T
River looms the Jersey City Manhattan is the 3 5 6 N E W S T R E E T STRE ET 2.3 S T R E E T t y
F I RS T P LA CE
skyline. Stroll toward the South undisputed king
w
Cove 2, where you’ll catch of tall buildings, pay 4 Bowling B E A V ER ST REET W A T E R S T R E E T P I N E S T R E E T J
ROBERT F.
sight, as did more than 100 homage at the sleek WAGNER JR Green BOWLING B R O AD HANOVER P E A R L S T R E E T F R O N T S T R E E T Pier 16
GREEN
million immigrants on their Skyscraper Museum PARK J 4.5 SQUARE
arrival, of Lady Liberty herself. 6, which shares a 7 GOVERNEUR ST
Explore Robert F. Wagner, Jr. building with the Ritz- 8
Park 3, named after a former Carlton Hotel. Admire 9 W H I T E H A L L S T RE E T P E A R L S T R E E T O L D S L I P S O U T H S T R E E T
New York City mayor. The leafy skyscraper history and
acres of grassy slopes, linden contemporary designs from BATTER Y VIETNAM
VETERANS’
trees, and inviting pavilions around the world, as well as the P ARK PARK
B AT T E R Y P L A C E STATE S TRE E T
are an important link in Lower original model, created in 1971, Whitehall St BROAD STREET q
N.R
Manhattan’s waterfront of the former World Trade Center. S O U T H S T
PETER MINUIT
SOUTH FERRY PLAZA
PLAZA
South Ferry
1
0
9 Castle Clinton, an early 19th-century
6 Shiny surfaces and sharp angles at the Skyscraper Museum fort built to defend the harbor
272-273_EW_New_York_City.indd 272 4/3/17 11:12 AM
SE VEN GUIDED W ALKS 273
Battery Park
On your way to nearby Battery
Park, check out Pier A Harbor
House 7, the wonderfully
renovated 1886 grand marine
firehouse. Important visitors who
arrived by sea were once greeted
with festive jets of water pumped
into the sky by the fireboats.
The clock on the pier tower
used to keep time to the mari-
time system – eight bells, and
all’s well. Continue along the
waterfront, looking out for the e Enjoying a well-earned rest at a café, South Street Seaport
American Merchant Mariners
Memorial 8, a haunting 1812. It later became an opera piers. Look west up the famed
sculpture of soldiers pulling a house, theater, and aquarium, Wall Street w (see pp68–9) as
desperate comrade out of the but is now the ticket office for you cross it, for a view of the
waters, based on photographs the Statue of Liberty. Stroll spires of the Trinity Church (see
of a World War II attack on an through the park, where you p71). Turn right at Maiden Lane,
American ship. Head past Castle can relax on benches in the shade then left onto the quaint and
BATTERY Clinton monument 9, a fort of trees. Continue on to State cobblestoned Front Street,
PARK A LBAN Y ST R E E T built during the War of Street, turn right onto Whitehall, which feeds into South Street
SOUTH END AVENUE ZUCCOTTI M AI DEN L A NE Battery Maritime Building 0. of the tall ships in the harbor.
CITY and then left onto South Street, Seaport e (see p84), marked
1 RECTOR passing the graceful Beaux Arts by the wooden masts and sails
PARK
WASHINGTON STREET
PLACE
history at the South Street
LIBERTY NASSAU ST S T J O H N S T R E E T Explore New York’s seafaring
PLAZA Rector St GREENWICH STREET PLACE Wall St W I L L I A M S T R E E T Seaport Museum, and then
L IBERTY STRE E T
1.R
4.5
WEST THAMES STREET
SQUARE
J 2 SE C O ND PL A C E W E S T S I D E H I G H W AY 9 A ( W E S T S T ) TRIN ITY Broad St P I N E S T R E E T LEGION P E A R L S T R E E T ST JOHN STREET FULTON STREET BEEKMAN ST wander the shop-lined Fulton
r
WATER ST
Street to Water Street. Take
J.Z
a peek into Bowne & Co
T HIRD PLA CE
e
Stationers at 211 r, a charming
W A L L
19th-century antique hand
FLETCHER ST
y
presses. Amble toward Pier
t
3 5 6 B R O A D W A Y N E W S T R E E T STRE ET EXC HANGE PLACE Wall St MA I D E N L ANE S O U T H S T R E ET Pier 17 old-fashioned print shop with
F I RST P L ACE
16 for a further glimpse of
2.3 S T R E E T
w
4 B E A V ER ST REET W A T E R S T R E E T P I N E S T R E E T J tall ships t, including the
ROBERT F. Bowling P E A R L S T R E E T S O U T H S T R E E T V I A D U C T Pier 16
WAGNER JR Green BOWLING B R O AD HANOVER F R O N T S T R E E T massive ship, Peking. Continue
GREEN
PARK J 4.5 SQUARE on to Pier 17 y, which is
7 GOVERNEUR ST undergoing extensive
8 W HIT E H A L L S T R E E T S O U T H S T R E E T renovations, but will soon be
9 B AT T E R Y P L A C E STATE S TRE E T P E A R L S T R E E T O L D S L I P bustling with shops and cafés.
BATTER Y VIETNAM As you walk the wooden pier,
look back for a memorable view
P ARK VETERANS’ of Manhattan – the masts of
PARK
Whitehall St BROAD STREET
N.R q ancient schooners against the
S O U T H S T city’s towering skyscrapers.
PETER MINUIT
SOUTH FERRY PLAZA Finish up at the inviting Paris
PLAZA
South Ferry Café in the 1873 Meyer’s Hotel.
1 South Street Seaport
0 Follow South Street, with the Tips for Walkers
Brooklyn Bridge in the distance.
Walk through the Vietnam Starting point: The Esplanade
Veterans Memorial Plaza q, near Rector Place.
Key with its glass memorial etched Length: 2 miles (3.2 km).
Getting there: Take subway train
with the poignant words from
Walk route 1 or R to Rector Street. Head west
soldiers to their loved ones. on Rector Street, cross the bridge
Head north on Water Street, over West Street to Rector Place,
so named because it marks and walk to the Esplanade.
what was once the water’s Stopping-off points: Gigino, on
edge, and past Old Slip; all Wagner Park at 20 Battery Place,
0 meters 300 streets named “slip” are where offers savory Italian fare outdoors.
0 yards 300 boats used to dock between
For keys to symbols see back flap
272-273_EW_New_York_City.indd 273 4/3/17 11:12 AM
274 NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA
A 90-Minute Walk in the East Village
Originally the farm or bouwerie of the Stuyvesant family, Velvet Underground was among
this historic area now has a different appeal thanks to its the bands who played here.
musical and artistic associations, as well as many of the
city’s buzzing and affordable ethnic bars and restaurants. Little Ukraine
Turn left onto Second Avenue,
It also manages to balance a peaceful residential area with home to one of the largest
business and creativity, which is reflected in the constantly and longeststanding Ukrainian
changing trendy record shops, vegan cafés, craft stores, populations in the US, with
and live music clubs. For more details on sights in the East restaurants, bars, and centers
Village, see pages 112–17. such as the Ukrainian National
Home 8 on the right (140),
and the goodvalue, 24hour
Astor Place Ukrainian eaterie Veselka 9
Adjacent to the Astor Place on the corner. Farther up
subway stop is a black steel Third Ave L
cube called the Alamo 1 – a
meeting point for students and
skateboarders. Walk towards BRO A D WAY TH I RD AVEN UE
Third Avenue through the FOU RT H AV E SECOND AVE NU E
large buildings that comprise First Avenue L E A S T 1 4 T H S T R E E T
Cooper Union 2 (see p116). This 8th St-NYU
N.R
scholarship college was found ed EAST 8TH ST Astor Place EAST 10TH STREET
in 1859 by Peter Cooper, an ASTOR PLACE 6 0 F I R S T A V E N U E E A ST 13TH S TREE T
illiterate but successful busi ness 3 EAST 9TH STREET E A ST 12TH S TREE T
man and proponent of free S T R E E T 1 2 7 A V E N U E A
education. Across the street is 4 5 6 9 q
the Continental 3, a live music FO URT H AVEN UE COOPER i 8 E A S T 1 1 TH S TRE E T
venue that has hosted acts such L A F AY E T T E E A S T 1 0 TH S TRE E T
as Iggy Pop and Guns N’ Roses. Locals enjoying celebrations on d SQUARE EAS T 7TH STREET w
In the East Village, 8th Street Ukrainian Day EAS T 6TH STREET o E A S T 9 T H S T REE T
becomes St. Mark’s Place 4, a
former jazz, then hippie, then “happenings,” and the EA S T 5 T H STREET S ECO N D AVE ST MA RK S P L A C E e
punk hangout. With so many US flag was burned GR E AT J O NE S ST s p TOMPKINS
sidewalk cafés and street as an antiwar protest EAST 4 TH S TREET E A S T 7 T H S T REE T A V E N U E A SQUARE t
vendors, this is one of the in 1967. At 19–25 BO N D S T EA ST 3RD STREET a u r
busiest pedestrian areas of St. Mark’s Place 7, E A S T 6 T H S T REE T y
Manhattan. St. Mark’s Ale House there was a Jewish f
5 on the right, formerly The hangout, then the AVENUE B
Five Spot, was where musicians Italian mafia ruled, until ELIZABETH ST B O W E R Y
and poets got together in Andy Warhol turned EAST 1ST ST EAST 2ND STREE T E AST 4 T H S T
the 1960s. A few steps down the space into the E A S T HO U S T ON F I R S T A V E N U E
(at no. 4) is the 1831 Hamilton infamous nightclub EAST 3RD ST
Holly House 6, that was once Electric Circus from
the Bridge Theater. The venue 1967 to 1971. The Second Ave F ST R EE T
was repeat edly shut down
due to con tro versial acts, then
reopened. Yoko Ono held
Tips for Walkers
Starting point: The Alamo.
Length: 1.75 miles (2.8 km).
Getting there: Take the subway
train 6 to Astor Place. Or take
M101, M102, or M103 buses.
Stopping-off Points: Many
goodvalue places on St. Mark’s
Place, but try Jules Bistro (French)
between 1st and 2nd avenues,
and Caracas Arepa Bar (cheap
Venezuelan) at 93½ East 7th St.
4 Stores in the busy neighborhood of St. Mark’s Place
274-275_EW_New_York_City.indd 274 4/3/17 11:12 AM
SE VEN GUIDED W ALKS 275
kinds. It is also where a sacred
elm tree in the middle of the
park r commemorates the first
Hare Krishna ceremony on
American soil. Jazz great Charlie
Parker lived across the street
from the park from 1950 to 1955
t. Walk to the southwestern
corner on 7th Street, where
Miss Lily’s y serves delicious
Jamaican food. Down the block,
Turntable Lab u sells DJ
equipment and vinyl. If you are
thirsty, continue west toward
Second Avenue to McSorley’s
q The style and elegance of an earlier century at Veniero’s Old Ale House i, one of the
Third Ave oldest bars in the city. Then get
L Second Avenue, at East 10th back onto Second Avenue and
BRO A D WAY FOU RT H AV E T HI RD AVENUE SECOND AVE NU E Street, sits the St. Mark’s Church- turn right to see where the live
venue Fillmore East o operated
in-the-Bowery 0 (see p117).
between 1968 and 1971 (105).
Erected in 1799, this church
8th St-NYU First Avenue L E A S T 1 4 T H S T R E E T was the location of Dutch This classic rock scene featured
N.R governor Peter Stuyvesant’s such legends as The Doors, Jimi
Astor Place EAST 10TH STREET private chapel, and Hendrix, Janis Joplin, and Pink
6 0 F I R S T A V E N U E EAST 13TH STREET he is buried here. Floyd. The Who even premiered
EAST 8TH ST
S T R E E T 1 2 4 3 6 7 9 q EAST 12TH STREET A V E N U E A Lords gathered here, and their rock opera Tommy here.
ASTOR PLACE
More recently, the Black
Look left at 6th Street – “Indian
Panthers and Young
EAST 9TH STREET
Restaurant Row” p – where
5
L A F AY E T T E FO URT H AVEN UE COOPER i 8 EA ST 1 0T H STREET writers contributed to The Bengali curry houses compete
Allen Ginsberg and other
for business. Continue southwest
EA ST 1 1T H STREET
w
d EA ST 6 TH ST R EE T o EA ST 9 TH ST R EET Poetry Project that exists down Second Avenue to
to this day. A right on
number 80 a; this was the
SQUARE EA ST 7T H ST R EE T
S E C O N D AV E ST MA RK S P L A C E e 11th Street leads home of Joe “The Boss” Masseria,
head of the Italian mob in the
to Veniero’s q, a
E A S T 5 TH S T R E ET
stylish Italian bakery
s p EA ST 7 TH STR EET A V E N U E A TOMPKINS that still has many of 1920s. Turn right onto 4th Street,
SQUARE
GR E AT J O NE S ST
where KGB bar s, on the right,
a u r t its original details, such is a literary institution. Continue
E A ST 4 TH S TR EET
y as hand-stamped metal straight along 4th Street to
BO N D S T
EAST 3 RD STREET
EA ST 6TH S T R E E T
f ceilings. Make a right and Lafayette Street, and stop off at
ELIZABETH ST B O W E R Y EAST 1ST ST E A S T 2N D ST RE ET F I R S T A V E N U E EAST 4 TH S T AVENUE B northern edge of Tompkins La Colombe, d an artisanal café
then a left onto 10th Street,
past the three-story Russian
that offers gourmet coffees.
From Lafayette, left on Great
and Turkish Baths w, to the
Jones Street and a final right
site (315) of CBGB f, a former
E A S T HO U S TON
Second Ave E A S T 3 R D S T Square e (see p117). onto Bowery lead to the former
F S TREET Tompkins Square punk venue (now a John Varvatos
Built in 1834, this square has clothing boutique) that gave many
seen political activism of all rock legends their big break.
r Elm tree, a Hare Krishna
memorial, in Tompkins Square Park
Key
Walk route
0 meters 200
0 yards 200 w The Russian and Turkish Baths
For keys to symbols see back flap
274-275_EW_New_York_City.indd 275 4/3/17 11:12 AM
276 NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA
A 90-Minute Walk in Harlem
Few neighborhoods in New York are as rich in cultural history
as Harlem, a haven for African-American heritage. This walk
starts in Strivers’ Row, one of the few areas that provided
affordable housing during the 1920s and 1930s, when the area
was bursting with creative and intellectual expression. It takes
you past renowned gospel churches, jazz and blues clubs, and
ends at the Apollo Theater, Harlem’s famous showcase for new
artists. For more on sights in Harlem, see pages 214–25.
Strivers’ Row renowned for
The tree-lined its truly r Apollo Theater, famous for televised
area on 138th mag ni ficent shows and legendary acts
Street between Sunday gospel
Seventh and Eighth service. Founded philanthropist, she donated
avenues is the in 1921 and named to many African-American E D G E C O M B E A V E N U E
St. Nicholas Historic for the East African charities such as the National S A I N T N I C H O L A S A V E N U E WEST 141ST STREET
District, commonly Americans of its first Association of Colored People WEST 140TH STREET
known as Strivers’ congregation, this (NAACP) and Tuskegee Institute.
Row 1. In the 1920s church has hosted After her death, her daughter WEST 139TH STREET
and 1930s wealthy such notable A’Leila turned the salon into 1
and influential black pastors as Adam an intellectual center WEST 138TH STREET
professionals aiming for Clayton Powell, Jr. for artists, scholars, and 135th St
(STRIVERS' ROW)
better lives moved into A stone’s throw activists. It was named B.C WEST 137TH STREET 2
7
homes designed by away on West “The Dark Tower” after WEST 136TH ST 3
such great architects as 137th Street is Harlem writer ( E I G H T H A V E N U E )
James Brown Lord and the Mother Zion Countee Cullen’s WEST 135TH STREET 4
McKim, Mead & White. church 4, New protest poem. Back WEST 134TH STREET WEST 138TH STREET
Signs on some of the 1 An ornate doorway York’s first black around the corner
gates still read “Private in Strivers’ Row church and one of on Malcolm X S T N I C H O L A S P A R K WEST 133RD STREET 5 6
road walk your horses.” America’s oldest. Boulevard is A D A M C L A Y T O N P O W E L L J R B O U L E V A R D ( S E V E N T H A V E N U E )
135th Street
A short detour left on Seventh While part of the Underground S A I N T N I C H O L A S T E R R A C E WEST 132ND STREET 2.3
Avenue (Adam Clayton Powell, Railroad (an escape route for S A I N T N I C H O L A S A V E N U E 9 8 WEST 135TH STREET
Jr. Boulevard) and right on slaves), it acquired the WEST 131ST ST
139th Street leads to West nickname “Freedom Church.”
139th Street 2, where in 1932 Continue down to 136th Street, F R E D E R I C K D O U G L A S S A V E N U E
16-year-old Billie Holiday moved via Malcolm X Boulevard, and
F I F T H A V E N U E
into No. 108 shortly before the Countee Cullen Library. MA L COLM X B O U LE VA RD ( L E N O X AV E )
landing her first singing job at Next door at No. 108, Madam ROOSEVELT
WEST 132ND STREET
a club in nearby “Jungle Alley.” C. J. Walker (1896–1919) SQUARE WEST 127TH ST WEST 131ST STREET
founded the Walker School 125th Street WEST 126TH STREET WEST 130TH STREET
Abyssinian Baptist Church of Hair 5. With her successful A.B.C.D
Turn right at Malcolm X cosmetics line and hair- r WEST 129TH STREET
Boulevard and right back onto smoothing system, Walker WEST 125TH STREET
138th Street toward the striking was one of the first self- WEST 124TH STREET WEST 128TH STREET
Abyssinian Baptist Church 3 made female millionaires 0
(see p223), which is internationally in the country. An active WEST 123RD STREET e q
the Schomburg w
Center for Research into 125th Street
2.3
Black Culture 6 (see p223),
a national research library WEST 124TH STREET AFRICAN
named for the Puerto Rican- WEST 123RD ST SQUARE
born black scholar who
donated his personal collection MARCUS
GAR VEY
to the library and served as its P ARK
curator for six years. Back along
West 136th Street at No. 267 is
“Niggerati Manor” 7, an artist’s
rooming house, so named by
Zora Neale Hurston, who lived
here while collabor ating with
0 The famous Sylvia’s restaurant, providing authentic soul food Wallace Thurman, Aaron
276-277_EW_New_York_City.indd 276 4/3/17 11:12 AM
SE VEN GUIDED W ALKS 277
Douglas, and Bruce Nugent on
Fire!!, a magazine devoted to
young black artists. Get back on
Adam Clayton Powell, Jr. Boule-
vard and follow it down to West
133rd Street, home to “Jungle
Alley” 8, the former highlight
of Harlem nightlife, which once
contained numer ous bars,
clubs, cabarets, and speakeasies.
A detour across 131st Street will
bring you to the house 9 (235)
of Marcus Garvey, a major
6 Art displays at the Schomberg Center for Research into Black Culture
S A I N T N I C H O L A S A V E N U E WEST 139TH STREET taste, of modern, trendy Harlem.
here for a glimpse, as well as a
E D G E C O M B E A V E N U E
Continue down to 125th Street,
where Malcolm X preached in
the 1950s and 1960s – this is
WEST 141ST STREET
A D A M C L A Y T O N P O W E L L J R B O U L E V A R D ( S E V E N T H A V E N U E )
also where Bill Clinton established
WEST 140TH STREET
his offices in 2001. In the middle
1
Museum in Harlem e (see
WEST 138TH STREET
pp224–5), with a variety of art
(STRIVERS' ROW)
135th St WEST 137TH STREET 2 The great jazz singer of the next block is the Studio
B.C ( E I G H T H A V E N U E ) WEST 136TH ST 3 2 Billie Holiday exhibits, programs, lectures, and
7
performances by artists of African
descent. Its store has an array of
S T N I C H O L A S P A R K
posters and books.
4
WEST 135TH STREET
S A I N T N I C H O L A S T E R R A C E WEST 132ND STREET 8 135th Street 6 WEST 135TH STREET Apollo Theater
S A I N T N I C H O L A S A V E N U E
WEST 138TH STREET
5
WEST 134TH STREET
On West 125th Street is the
famous Apollo Theater r
WEST 133RD STREET
2.3
(see p224), where
since 1934 “stars
9
are born and
legends are made.”
WEST 131ST ST
have ranged in
F I F T H A V E N U E
style from Ella
Fitzgerald to
ROOSEVELT F R E D E R I C K D O U G L A S S A V E N U E MA LCOLM X B O ULEVA RD ( LEN O X AVE) These performers
WEST 132ND STREET
SQUARE WEST 127TH ST WEST 131ST STREET James Brown.
125th Street WEST 126TH STREET WEST 130TH STREET 8 “Jungle Alley,” where Billie Holiday Since 1987,
A.B.C.D first performed “Amateur Night
r WEST 129TH STREET 0 meters 200 been televised nationwide,
at the Apollo” has
WEST 125TH STREET
0 WEST 128TH STREET 0 yards 200 and the theater has become
one of the most popular tourist
WEST 124TH STREET
e q leader and fierce destinations in Manhattan.
WEST 123RD STREET
125th Street w proponent of black unity,
2.3 economic independence, Tips for Walkers
and pride. Return to Adam
Clayton Powell, Jr. Boulevard and Starting point: Strivers’ Row.
AFRICAN
SQUARE Length: 1.75 miles (2.8 km)
make a left on 127th Street until
WEST 124TH STREET
you reach Sylvia’s 0 (see p224), Getting there: Take subway train
WEST 123RD ST
MARCUS named after the self-proclaimed 2 or 3 to 135th St and Lenox Ave,
GAR VEY then walk north to 138th St and
P ARK “Queen of Soul Food.” Family- west to Seventh Ave. Or take M2,
owned since 1962, Sylvia’s serves M7, or M10 bus to 135th St and
authentic Southern favorites, walk to Seventh Ave.
such as fried chicken, catfish, Stopping-off Points: Sylvia’s on
and BBQ ribs. Alternatively, stay
Key 127th and Lenox is Harlem’s most
on Malcolm X Boulevard until famous soul food restaurant. It is
Walk route 125th Street, where you’ll find the perfect place to refuel.
Red Rooster Harlem q. Stop off
For keys to symbols see back flap
276-277_EW_New_York_City.indd 277 4/3/17 11:12 AM
278-279_EW_New_York.indd 278 06/04/16 12:40 pm
Travelers’
needs
Where to Stay 280–289
Where to Eat and Drink 290–311
Shopping 312–333
Entertainment in
New York City 334–357
Children’s New York City 358–359
278-279_EW_New_York.indd 279 06/04/16 12:40 pm
280 TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
With over 110,000 hotel rooms available, New breakfasts, as well as youth hostels and
York offers something for everyone. The city’s YMCAs. The hotels listed in this guide have
top hotels are among the most expensive in been selected for their value, location, and
the US, but there are also many budget and amenities. Entries are separated by theme and
mid-priced hotels. While some of these are price, helping you choose accommodations
basic rather than charming, they offer good that best suit your needs. Hotels highlighted
value. Other budget options are furnished as DK Choice offer something special, such
apartments and studios, and bed and as beautiful interiors or remarkable service.
represents a big saving, since
standard hotel continental
breakfast prices, before tax and
tip, start at about $10 and soar
to $25 in some of the luxury
hotels. To save money, head
for the nearest deli or coffee
shop and leave the hotel
to business people having
power breakfasts.
Hotel telephone charges are
always high; it is usually much
less expensive to use a cell
phone, or Wi-Fi (usually free).
Tips are expected. Staff who
Rooftop terrace at the Peninsula New York (see p289) take your luggage to the room
are usually tipped a minimum
of $1 per bag – more in a
Where to Look
also plenty of good bars, luxury hotel. The concierge
The East Side, roughly between restaurants, and upscale shops need not be tipped for normal
59th and 77th streets, is the (see pp314–15) as well as services such as arranging
traditional location for luxury fashionable nightclubs. transportation or making
hotels. The renovation of some Harlem has a range of dinner reservations, but should
landmark Midtown properties affordable B&Bs, while areas in be rewarded for except ional
by famous hotel chains, Brooklyn, such as Williamsburg, services. When you order
however, such as the St. Regis boast excellent budget options from room service, a service
by Starwood, and the former and plenty of boutique hotels. charge will usually be included
Gotham Hotel, which is now For more information on in the bill; if not, a 15–20 per
the Peninsula New York, has specific areas, view the section cent tip is customary. Solo
considerably increased the on Recommended Hotels travelers will find that single
competition in this price range. (see pp282–3). room rates are usually at least
Business travelers tend to 80 per cent of the double rate
favor Midtown, especially the Hidden Extras and are some times the same as
moderately priced hotels lining for two people.
Lexington Avenue near Grand When calculating
Central Terminal. the cost of hotels
Those seeking relative quiet in New York, it
with access to Midtown should is not enough
look in the Murray Hill area, simply to take into
while theater-lovers should consideration the
consider the Times Square area, quoted room price.
where there are many hotels Hotel rooms are
within walking distance of the subject to a total
bustling Theater District. 14.75 per cent tax,
There are a number of good, plus $3.50 per night
inexpensive hotels around per room fee.
Herald Square, which is Several hotels
convenient for shopping. now include
Trendy boutique hotels have continental
flourished in SoHo and Lower breakfast in the
Manhattan, where there are room price. This Antique furnishings, Inn at Irving Place (see p284)
Opulent interior of the Lotte New York Palace Hotel (see p289)
280-283_EW_New_York_City.indd 280 4/3/17 11:41 AM
WHERE T O ST A Y 281
How to Reserve A lower corporate rate is
It is advisable to make hotel usually available to employees
reservations months in advance; of large companies. Quite
otherwise, you may well find often reservation clerks will
that the best rooms and rates grant corporate discounts
have been taken. Most hotels on request without asking
in New York are booked for a company affiliation.
through much of the year, It is also worth checking
but the busiest periods are at a hotel website for special
Easter, the New York Marathon deals and promotions.
week in late October or Some reservation agencies
early November, Thanksgiving, offer discount rates. A good
and Christmas. travel agent should be able
The easiest way to book a to get the best rates, but
hotel room directly is through compare prices by contacting
the hotel’s website. You may be directly a discount reservation
required to pay a deposit or service such as Quikbook
provide a credit card number to (see p283), which offers
The Roxy Hotel lobby (see p285) secure the booking. Print out a discounts of 20–50 per cent,
copy of the booking confirma- depending on the time of year.
tion to give to the hotel when You reserve by credit card and
Facilities
you check in. Reservations receive a voucher, which you
Television, radio, and at least through third party websites present to the hotel. Sites
one telephone are usually such as www.expedia.com such as www.kayak.com offer
provided in every room, even and www.hotels.com can “private sales” of discounted
in modest lodgings, and most offer the best value for money. hotel rooms.
hotel bedrooms have private Most hotels have a toll-free Package tours can also
bathrooms. In budget and telephone number for use in provide savings. Their rates
mid-priced hotels, a shower, the United States, but these may not oblige you to stay
rather than a tub, is the norm. numbers do not work from with a tour group, only
Many hotels offer Internet Europe and the UK. If the hotel to use their air and hotel
access (often with free Wi-Fi), is part of an international chain, arrangements. They may
a business center, and a health an affiliated hotel in your also include airport transfers,
club or exercise room. Luxury country should be able to an additional saving. Airlines
facilities include mini bars in reserve a room for you. frequently have special deals,
the room, dual phones, private particularly during slow travel
phone-message systems, and seasons. A knowledgeable
electronic checkout. Special Rates travel agent should be able
Although you’d expect hotel Hotels are busiest during to tell you the current best
rooms in New York City to be the week, when business deals, but searching online
noisy, most windows are double- travelers are in the city, so might be an easier and quicker
or even triple-glazed to keep out most of them offer budget way to find limited offers that
the noise. Air conditioning is a weekend packages. It’s often can be booked directly. At
standard feature, so there is no possible to move from a off-peak times you may net
need to open the windows in standard to a luxury room for even bigger savings than
hot weather. Even so, some the weekend at the same rate. with the package plans.
rooms are obviously quieter than
others, especially if they are
at the back of the hotel or
overlooking a courtyard – check
when reserving. Light sleepers
may also want to request a room
away from the elevator.
Most of the hotels listed here
are within a few minutes’ walk
of shops and restaurants. Few
hotels have their own parking,
but valets may park your car in
nearby garages. A reduced (but
still expensive) daily parking fee
is normally offered. If there is no
concierge at the hotel, front
desk staff will always help to
answer any queries. Understated elegance at the stylish Kitano (see p288)
280-283_EW_New_York_City.indd 281 4/3/17 11:41 AM
282 TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS
Travelers with Disabilities hostels are not as prevalent in
By law, new hotels must New York as they are in large
provide facilities for disabled European cities. For those
visitors. Many older buildings looking for the bare essentials,
have also been renovated so as inexpensive rooms are avail able
to comply with this regulation. in several areas, particularly in
To find out which hotels offer Chelsea, the Garment District,
the best facilities, check their and the Upper West Side, and
websites. These are provided for to a lesser extent in such prime
all the hotels listed on pp284–9. neighborhoods as Upper Midtown.
When booking, let the hotel Although some of these budget
know of any specific needs. price rooms are comfortable,
Guide dogs are allowed in most with private baths or showers,
hotels, but it is also advisable to others may be rather small,
check in advance. perhaps with no air conditioning
The Mayor’s Office for People and shared bathrooms.
with Disabilities produces the Sitting area at the Akwaaba Mansion
“Official Accessibility Guide,” (see p284) Suites
with useful information about
hotels for disabled travelers. Increasingly, one of the most If you’d like extra space – or
affordable ways to stay in New are planning on an extended
York is by renting out a private stay in NYC – opt for an apart
Traveling with Children room or property. A number of ment or allsuite hotel, which
American hotels are generally services facilitate this, including feature sizeable kitchenettes.
very welcoming toward children. the very popular – and well run Suites offer extra space
Cots or cribs as well as lists of – Airbnb (www.airbnb.com), plus cooking facilities and a
reliable babysitters are usually which offers a wide range of refrigerator. Most suites can
available, and most hotel restau accommodation in over 35,000 accommodate up to four
rants cater to young guests. private homes and apartments people, which makes them
Traveling with children need in New York, from town houses popular with families.
not be expensive. Many hotels on the Upper East Side to
do not charge for children if student flats in the East Village Beyond Manhattan
they stay in their parents’ room, and Brooklyn. There are
or make only a small charge for currently regulations that As Manhattan becomes more
an extra bed. There is usually a restrict the rental of entire expensive, accommodation
limit of one or two children per apartments for 30 days or less, options are emerging in the
room in these cases, and most as opposed to a room in a outer boroughs for savvy
hotels stipulate that the children shared apartment, so it is best travelers. In addition to
must be under a certain age, to check the situation with the Brooklyn and Harlem, cheaper
most often 12. Parents of older property host before booking. chain hotels can be found in
children are expected to pay Rates for private apart ments the outer boroughs of Queens,
the full price, although the age vary from about $100 to $300. Staten Island, and the Bronx.
limit is occasionally extended Be aware that if the address is Across the Hudson, Jersey
to 18. Ask about family rates remote or inconveniently far City offers budget apartment
when you make your reservation. from bus routes or subway rentals, along with boutique
stations, your costs will rise, as and business hotels. Visitors
you will need frequent cabs. can find apartments on Airbnb,
Budget Accommodations
Ask about location and often rented out at a fraction
Though primarily located in the amenities when you reserve. of the price of similar
outer boroughs, bedand Another source for budget apartments in Manhattan.
breakfast accommodations in lodging is Couchsurfing (www. As always, cheaper deals
private apartments are also avail couchsurfing.org), which has can often be negotiated or
able in Manhattan. While they many memberhosts in New York. found on hotel websites.
are often reasonably priced, the New York’s youth hostel and
higher budget options provide YMCA dormitories offer lodgings
a very personable experience as for those on a tighter budget. Recommended Hotels
well. Bedandbreakfast lodgings For the longerterm visitor, the Our hotels are divided into five
can be found through many free 92nd Street Y, a nonsectarian categories: bedandbreakfast
booking services. Some agencies hostel in the Upper East Side, (B&B), boutique, budget,
have a twoormorenight mini has goodvalue rooms for business, and luxury. B&Bs
mum stay. Rates for a double students, with prices starting offer a friendly, personable
room typically start at $130 a from around $1,900 a month. experience, with cozy rooms
night, depending on whether There are no camp sites in and a hearty breakfast. Boutique
you have a private bathroom. Manhattan, and, sadly, youth hotels are generally smaller,
280-283_EW_New_York_City.indd 282 4/3/17 11:42 AM
WHERE T O ST A Y 283
non-chain establishments with pop ular with visitors who are in
high design elements. Budget town to see Broadway shows.
stays come in a variety of Upper Manhattan includes
packages, from quaint hostels the Upper East Side, which
and rooms with kitchenettes, to features many of New York
superb-value hotels. Business City’s most upscale hotels, plus
hotels feature sleek and the Upper West Side, and
contemporary rooms, and Morningside Heights and
business amenities, from Wi-Fi Harlem, which has a broad
and business centers to range of hotels. Brooklyn, an
meeting rooms with audio and up-and-coming location for
visual technology. Luxury hotels boutique hotels and B&Bs, has a
encompass the finest of New variety of accommodation,
York’s upscale hotels, with many while Farther Afield includes
luxury amenities, from spas to The stunning Ritz-Carlton in Battery Park notable options in Queens.
celebrity-chef restaurants. (see p288) Look out for listings labeled
Our hotels are further divided as DK Choice. These hotels have
into five geographical areas, Greenwich Village, the East Village, been high lighted because they
which encompass the various and Gramercy and the Flatiron offer a special experience – either
areas that form this guide: District. Midtown covers both for superlative service, beautiful
Downtown is a richly varied Lower and Upper Midtown, as interiors and rooms, top-notch
area that spans Lower Manhattan well as Chelsea and the Garment amenities and gadgets, an excel-
and the Civic Center, the Lower District, and Midtown West and lent on-site restaurant or rooftop
East Side, SoHo and TriBeCa, the Theater District, which is bar, or a combination of these.
DIRECTORY
Airport Travelers with City Lights Bed Suite Hotels
Reservations Disabilities & Breakfast Affinia Hotels
Accommodations Mayor’s Office for Tel (212) 737-7049. Reservations:
∑ citylightsnew
Plus People with york.com Tel (212) 465-3661.
Disabilities
Toll-free: 866-246 2203.
JFK International 100 Gold St, 2nd floor, ∑ affinia.com
Airport. NY, NY 10038. City Sonnet
Tel 800-733-7666. Tel (212) 788-2830. Tel (212) 614-3034. Beekman Tower
∑ nyc.gov/mopd ∑ citysonnet.com 3 Mitchell Pl.
Discount Couchsurfing Map 13 C5.
Reservation Budget ∑ couchsurfing.org Tel 888-754-8044.
Services Accommodation ∑ bridgestreet.com
Hosteling The Benjamin
Booking.com 92nd Street Y International, NY 125 E 50th St. Map 13 B4.
Tel 888-850-3958. 1395 Lexington Ave, 891 Amsterdam Ave at Tel (212) 715-2500.
NY, NY 10128.
∑ booking.com Map 17 A2. W 103rd St, NY, NY 10025. ∑ thebenjamin.com
Expedia Tel (212) 415-5650. Map 20 E5. The Phillips Club
Tel (212) 932-2300.
∑ expedia.co.uk ∑ 92y.org ∑ hinewyork.org 155 West 66th St. Map 12
Affordable New D2. Tel 887-644-8900.
Hotels.com York City New York’s ∑ phillipsclub.com
Tel 800-246-8357. Tel (212) 533-4001. Jazz Hostels Radio City Apartments
∑ hotels.com ∑ affordablenewyork ∑ jazzhostels.com 142 West 49th St. Map 12
city.com
Kayak Vanderbilt YMCA E5. Tel (212) 730-0728.
∑ kayak.com Airbnb 224 E 47th St, NY, ∑ radiocityapts.com
∑ airbnb.co.uk The Surrey
lastminute.com At Home in NY NY 10017. 20 E 76th St. Map 17 A5.
Tel 0800 083 4000. Tel (212) 956-3125. Map 13 A5. Tel (212) 905-1477.
∑ lastminute.com ∑ athomeny.com Tel (212) 912-2500. ∑ thesurrey.com
∑ ymcanyc.org
Quikbook Chelsea Hostel YMCA– West Side Union Square
Tel (212) 779-7666. 251 W 20th St, Apartments
∑ quikbook.com NY, NY 10011. 5 W 63rd St, NY, NY 10023. 209 East 14th St. Map 9
Map 8 D5. Map 12 D2. B5. Tel (212) 614-0500.
Trivago Tel (212) 647-0010. Tel (917) 441-8800. ∑ unionsquare
∑ trivago.com ∑ chelseahostel.com ∑ ymcanyc.org apartmentsnyc.com
280-283_EW_New_York_City.indd 283 4/3/17 11:42 AM
284 TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS
Where to Stay
Bibi’s Garden Bed & Breakfast $ Price Guide
Bed-and-Breakfast 762 Westminster Rd, 11230 Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Downtown Tel (718) 434-3119 high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
∑ bibisgarden.net
Inn at Irving Place $$ Victorian house with lovely rooms $ under $200
56 Irving Place, 10003 decorated with antiques. Offers $$ $200 to $400
Tel (212) 533-4600 Map 9 A5 continental breakfast spread. $$$ over $400
∑ innatirving.com
Exclusive, impeccable The Sofia Inn $ The Roger New York $$
guesthouse in two magnificent 288 Park Place, 11238 131 Madison Ave, 10016
adjoining brownstones. Tel (917) 865-7428 Map 23 C4 Tel (212) 448-7000 Map 9 A3
∑ brooklynbedandbreakfast.net ∑ therogernewyork.com
Upper Manhattan Historic B&B with traditional Warm, inviting hotel with lots
of amenities. There are terrace
rooms and hardwood floors. The
The Harlem Flophouse $ garden has its own private bath. rooms with private balconies.
242 West 123rd St, 10027
Tel (347) 632-1960 Map 21 A2 SoHo Grand Hotel $$
∑ harlemflophouse.com 301 West Broadway, 10013
Beautiful 1890s brownstone Boutique Tel (212) 965-3000 Map 4 E4
with four rooms and two shared ∑ sohogrand.com
bathrooms, that have antique Downtown Sophisticated hotel with tastefully
clawfoot tubs. Blue Moon Hotel $ done-up rooms. The building is
100 Orchard St, 10002 17-stories high with great views
Sugar Hill Harlem Inn $$ Tel (212) 533-9080 Map 5 A3 of downtown Manhattan.
460 West 141st St, 10031 ∑ bluemoon-nyc.com
Tel (212) 234-5432 Map 19 A2 With echoes of the 1920s and 30s The Standard East Village $$
∑ sugarhillharleminn.com throughout, this boutique, a 25 Cooper Square, 10003
Eco-friendly hotel set in a former tenement, has tastefully Tel (212) 475-5700 Map 4 F2
charming Victorian town house decorated, cozy rooms. ∑ standardhotels.com
from 1906. Serves organic food. Eye-catching hotel designed by
The Evelyn $$$ Carlos Zapata. Comfy rooms with
Brooklyn 7 East 27th St, 10016 all modern amenities. Compli-
Tel (212) 545-8000 Map 8 F3 mentary continental breakfast.
∑ theevelyn.com
DK Choice With a modern decor, this hotel Wall Street Inn $$
has a wide range of rooms to suit
9 South William St, 10004
Akwaaba Mansion $ all budgets. Tel (212) 747-1500 Map 1 C3
347 MacDonough St, ∑ thewallstreetinn.com
Bedford-Stuyvesant, 11233 Gatsby Hotel $$ This business-friendly hotel was
Tel (718) 455-5958 135 East Houston St, 10002 once owned by the Lehman
∑ akwaaba.com Tel (212) 358-8844 Map 5 A3 Brothers. Comfortable rooms
This sophisticated inn offers ∑ gatsbyhotelnyc.com with period American interiors.
themed rooms with Afro- Snug, clean, and well-maintained
centric interiors, featuring rooms, with sturdy furnishings Washington Square Hotel $$
Adrinkra fabrics and Daffodil and flatscreen TVs. 103 Waverly Place, 10011
rag dolls. The inn has a lovely Tel (212) 777-9515 Map 4 D2
tearoom and a sunny porch. Gild Hall $$ ∑ washingtonsquarehotel.com
Southern-style breakfasts. 15 Gold St, 10038 A stylish marble lobby gives way
Tel (212) 232-7700 Map 2 D2 to comfy rooms, some with views
∑ thompsonhotels.com of lush Washington Square Park.
Elegant hotel with a classy wood-
paneled library and a Champagne The Bowery Hotel $$$
bar. Its proximity to Wall Street 335 Bowery, 10003
attracts corporate travelers. Tel (212) 505-9100 Map 4 F3
∑ theboweryhotel.com
The Marcel at Gramercy $$ A luxurious, fashionable hotel
201 East 24th St, 10010 with a vintage feel. Dark wood
Tel (212) 696-3800 Map 9 B4 and antique furniture feature
∑ themarcelatgramercy.com throughout though bedrooms
Chic rooms with rain showers are kept simple and light.
in the bathrooms. Beds have
luxurious Italian linens. Crosby Street Hotel $$$
79 Crosby St, 10012
Nolitan $$ Tel (212) 226-6400 Map 4 E3
30 Kenmare St, 10012 ∑ firmdalehotels.com
Tel (212) 925-2555 Map 4 F4 A slice of upscale London in
∑ nolitanhotel.com the heart of SoHo. Rooms
Charming and pet-friendly hotel. are bright and cheerful, and
Chic interiors and classy lounge area at Many rooms have private afternoon tea is available in
Hotel Giraffe, Downtown balconies and rain showers. the stylish drawing room.
284-289_EW_New_York_City.indd 284 4/3/17 12:08 PM
WHERE T O ST A Y 285
Duane Street Hotel $$$
130 Duane St, 10013
Tel (212) 964-4600 Map 1 B1
∑ duanestreethotel.com
Intimate hotel with sleek, loft-
style rooms, smart urban design,
and an inviting restaurant.
DK Choice
Hotel Giraffe $$$
365 Park Ave South, 10016
Tel (212) 685-7700 Map 9 A4
∑ hotelgiraffe.com
This hotel is the epitome of
boutique elegance, with a light-
filled lobby and a baby grand
piano. Impeccable rooms with
velveteen chairs and French Eye-catching art adorns the walls at the Ace Hotel, Midtown
doors. There’s a rooftop garden
bar. Complimentary breakfast. Smyth $$$ complimentary nightly cheese-
85 West Broadway, 10007 and-wine receptions. Rooms
Tel (212) 587-7000 Map 1 B1 feature rattan furnishings and
Hotel on Rivington $$$ ∑ thompsonhotels.com colorful blinds.
107 Rivington St, 10002 Modern hotel with classic
Tel (212) 475-2600 Map 5 A3 touches, sleek and sizeable Eurostars Dylan Hotel $$
∑ hotelonrivington.com rooms, and marble bathrooms. 52 East 41st St, 10017
Fashionable hotel with spacious Tel (212) 338-0500 Map 9 A1
rooms, plush decor, and great ∑ dylanhotel.com
floor-to-ceiling views. Midtown Set in a Beaux Arts building, with
Roger Smith Hotel $ handsome walnut furnishings
The James $$$ 501 Lexington Ave, 10022 and a steakhouse restaurant.
27 Grand St, 10013 Tel (212) 755-1400 Map 13 A5
Tel (212) 465-2000 Map 4 E4 ∑ rogersmith.com Fitzpatrick Grand Central $$
∑ jameshotels.com Charming, arty hotel, set in a 141 East 44th St, 10017
Elegant rooms with natural linens, 1929 building. The rooms are Tel (212) 351-6800 Map 13 A5
and rain showers in the individually decorated with ∑ fitzpatrickhotels.com
bathrooms. Rooftop bar with unique, handpicked furnishings. Warm and inviting rooms, some
glittering skyline views. with canopied beds. Check out
Ace Hotel $$ the bustling on-site pub.
The Mercer Hotel $$$ 20 West 29th St, 10001
147 Mercer St, 10012 Tel (212) 679-2222 Map 8 F3 IBEROSTAR 70 Park Avenue $$
Tel (212) 966-6060 Map 4 E3 ∑ acehotel.com/newyork 70 Park Ave, 10016
∑ mercerhotel.com A chic, rock-and-roll hotel, with Tel (212) 973-2400 Map 9 A1
Intimate hotel with loft-style over 200 rooms, most featuring ∑ iberostar.com
rooms and an excellent New art by local and international Pet-friendly hotel with elegant
American restaurant. artists. Choices range from rooms and a nightly wine hour.
rooms with twin bunk beds Offers in-room spa service.
Roxy Hotel $$$ to lavish loft suites.
2 Sixth Ave, 10013 Ink 48 $$
Tel (212) 519-6600 Map 3 E5 Belvedere Hotel $$ 653 11th Ave, 10036
∑ roxyhotelnyc.com 319 West 48th St, 10036 Tel (212) 757-0088 Map 11 B5
A grand atrium lobby leads to Tel (212) 245-7000 Map 12 D5 ∑ ink48.com
well-appointed rooms. Enjoy top- ∑ belvederehotelnyc.com Brightly colored rooms with
shelf cocktails at the Church Bar. Family-friendly, spacious rooms skyline views. Sip cocktails under
decorated in a 1920s Art Deco the stars in the rooftop bar.
SIXTY LES $$$ style with soothing earthy colors.
190 Allen St, 10002 Lively Brazilian restaurant. Kimberly Hotel $$
Tel (877) 460-8888 Map 5 A3 145 East 50th St, 10022
∑ sixtyhotels.com The Benjamin $$ Tel (212) 755-0400 Map 13 A5
Industrial-chic hotel decorated 125 East 50th St, 10022 ∑ kimberlyhotel.com
with contemporary art. Unique Tel (212) 715-2500 Map 13 A4 This low-profile hotel should not
Andy Warhol filmstrip pool ∑ thebenjamin.com be under estimated; great value
on the roof. A classic hotel that is very for money, with nicely decorated
proud of its comfortable beds. and spacious rooms.
SIXTY SoHo $$$ Guests can pick from a menu
60 Thompson St, 10012 of plush pillows. Morgans $$
Tel (877) 431-0400 Map 4 D4 237 Madison Ave, 10016
∑ sixtyhotels.com Casablanca Hotel $$ Tel (212) 686-0300 Map 9 A8
Very elegant, minimalist rooms 147 West 43rd St, 10036 ∑ morganshotelgroup.com
with top-notch gadgets. There’s Tel (212) 869-1212 Map 8 E1 Chic hotel with New York taxi-
a fashionable rooftop bar, and a ∑ casablancahotel.com inspired black-and-white
lovely Italian restaurant. Moroccan-themed hotel with checkered pattern throughout.
For more information on types of hotels see pp282–3
284-289_EW_New_York_City.indd 285 4/3/17 12:08 PM
286 TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS
DK Choice Kimpton Eventi $$$ Rooms are elegantly styled with
designer amenities.
851 6th Ave, 10001
The Standard High Line $$ Tel (212) 564-4567 Map 8 E3
848 Washington St, 10014 ∑hoteleventi.com NYLO New York City $$
Tel (212) 645-4646 Warm and colorful rooms, floor-to- 2178 Broadway, 10024
Map 3 B1 ceiling windows, and great service Tel (212) 362-1100 Map 15 C5
∑ standardhotels.com in the heart of Chelsea. ∑ nylohotels.com
Soaring, ultra-trendy hotel Stylish rooms, many of which
with fabulous views of the Library Hotel $$$ have balconies. Beautiful views
Hudson River. Impeccable 299 Madison Ave, 10017 of the city skyline. There are
rooms, floor-to-ceiling wall-to- Tel (212) 983-4500 Map 9 A1 also two great on-site
wall windows, and exceptional ∑ libraryhotel.com restaurants to enjoy.
service standards. A library theme drives the decor
of this stunning hotel, with 6 Columbus $$$
over 6,000 books featuring 6 Columbus Circle, 10019
Andaz 5th Avenue $$$ throughout. Each floor is Tel (212) 204-3000 Map 12 D3
485 5th Ave, 10017 dedicated to a different subject, ∑ sixtyhotels.com
Tel (212) 601-1234 Map 8 F1 from philosophy to technology. . Colorful 1960s Modernist decor
∑ newyork.5thavenue.andaz. from designer Guy Bourdin,
hyatt.com The Maritime $$$ original artwork, a rooftop lounge,
Enjoy a charming stay at this 363 West 16th St, 10011 and an excellent sushi bar.
hypoallergenic hotel with state- Tel (212) 242-4300 Map 8 D5
of-the-art air purification system. ∑ themaritimehotel.com
The loft-style rooms feature floor- This trendy hotel is decorated
to-ceiling windows. with a nautical theme. Porthole Budget
windows in the rooms have
Bryant Park $$$ views of the Hudson River. Downtown
40 West 40th St, 10018 Hotel 17 $
Tel (212) 869-0100 Map 8 F1 The Nomad Hotel $$$ 225 East 17th St, 10003
∑ bryantparkhotel.com 1170 Broadway, 10001 Tel (212) 475-2845 Map 9 B5
Overlooking Bryant Park, this Tel (212) 796-1500 Map 8 F3 ∑ hotel17ny.com
modern hotel has stylish, ∑ thenomadhotel.com This simple hotel was featured
minimalist rooms with excellent Beautifully restored Beaux Arts in the 1993 Woody Allen film
amenities, plus a private theater hotel with a very popular bar Manhattan Murder Mystery, and
and huge underground bar. and lounge. is often used in fashion shoots.
The Chatwal $$$ St. Giles New York – Hotel 31 $
130 West 44th St, 10036 The Court & The Tuscany $$$ 129 East 31st St, 10016
Tel (212) 764-6200 Map 12 E5 120–130 East 39th St, 10016 Tel (212) 685-3060 Map 9 A3
∑ thechatwalny.com Tel (212) 686-1600 Map 9 A1 ∑ hotel31.com
Art Deco meets contemporary ∑ stgiles.com/new-york Sister property to Hotel 17, with
decor in this sophisticated hotel Sister hotels located on the same simple but well-kept rooms, free
filled with eye-catching art. The street. Both are tastefully Wi-Fi, and cable TV.
building opened in 1905 as the decorated with elegant, spacious
Lambs Club and became a hotel rooms, and stylish lounges. Larchmont $
in 2010. 27 West 11th St, 10011
Tel (212) 989-9333 Map 4 D1
Hotel Americano $$$ Upper Manhattan ∑ larchmonthotel.com
518 West 27th St, 10001 Bentley Hotel $$ Simple, well-maintained rooms in
Tel (212) 216-0000 Map 7 C3 500 East 62nd St, 10065 the West Village. Basic amenities
∑ hotel-americano.com Tel (212) 644-6000 Map 13 C2 – including shared bathrooms –
Part of a hip Mexican chain, this ∑ bentleyhotelnyc.com and TVs.
hotel has sleek, minimalist rooms, Towering glass-clad hotel with
and a rooftop bar and pool. stellar views of the East River. Union Square Apartments $
209 East 14th St, 10003
Tel (212) 614-0500 Map 4 F1
∑ unionsquareapartmentsnyc.com
Basic but clean apartments and
rooms, most with kitchenettes.
Lower rates for extended stays.
Midtown
American Dream $
168 East 24th St, 10010
Tel (212) 260-9779 Map 9 A4
∑ americandreamhostel.com
This friendly, well-located
hostel offers complimentary
Wi-Fi and good continental
breakfast. Choose between
private rooms, all with bunk
Colorful outdoor seating with great views at The Standard High Line, Midtown beds, and shared bathrooms.
Key to Prices see p284
284-289_EW_New_York_City.indd 286 4/3/17 12:08 PM
WHERE T O ST A Y 287
Americana Inn $ Hostelling International
69 West 38th St, 10018 New York $
Tel (212) 840-6700 Map 8 F1 891 Amsterdam Ave, 10025
∑ theamericanainn.com Tel (212) 932-2300 Map 20 E5
Basic rooms with shared ∑ hinewyork.org
bathrooms. Each floor has A vast building resembling a
a communal kitchenette campus dorm, with a cafeteria,
equipped with fridges and game room, and picnic tables.
microwaves.
Jazz on the Park $
Chelsea International Hostel $ 36 West 106th St, 10025
251 West 20th St, 10011 Tel (212) 932-1600 Map 21 A5
Tel (212) 647-0010 Map 8 D5 ∑ jazzhostels.com
∑ chelseahostel.com A lively, arty, hostel with simple
One of the city’s best hostels, dorm rooms, complimentary
with free breakfast daily and free breakfast, and a coffeehouse
pizza on Wednesdays. Guests can with live music.
choose between private rooms
or shared dorms. Mount Morris House $
The contemporary Yotel has great views 12 Mt Morris Park West, 10027
Colonial House Inn $ of the city Tel (917) 478-6214 Map 21 B2
318 West 22nd St, 10011 ∑ mountmorrishousebandb.com
Tel (212) 243-9669 Map 8 D4 Riff Hotel Chelsea $ Originally built in 1888, this
∑ colonialhouseinn.com 300 West 30th St, 10011 elegant brownstone has five
Gay-friendly townhouse inn Tel (212) 244-7827 Map 8 D3 cozy suites. The interiors are
with modern rooms, some with ∑ riffchelsea.com decorated with period antiques.
private bathrooms and fireplaces. With interiors inspired by the Although the stay doesn’t
New York party scene of the include breakfast, there is
Hotel NYMA $ 1980s, this quirky hotel offers fresh cake on offer daily.
6 West 32nd St, 10001 guests an interesting stay. Both
Tel (212) 643-7100 Map 8 E3 private and shared bathrooms
∑ applecorehotels.com are available. Brooklyn
Tasteful rooms in shades of Best Western Gregory Hotel
soothing brown and beige, with Vanderbilt YMCA $ Brooklyn $
flatscreen TVs and coffeemakers. 224 East 47th St, 10017 8315 Fourth Ave, 11201
Tel (212) 912-2500 Map 13 B5 Tel (718) 238-3737 Map 23 B4
Pod 39 $ ∑ ymcanyc.org/vanderbilt ∑ bestwestern.com
145 East 39th St, 10016 Small, quiet hostel accommo- Comfortable, well-appointed
Tel (877) 358-0617 Map 9 A1 dation close to Grand Central. rooms, complimentary breakfast,
∑ thepodhotel.com Amenities include a launderette, and an old-fashioned bar with
Snug but stylishly furnished gym, and swimming pool. reasonably priced cocktails.
rooms with flatscreen TVs,
free Wi-Fi, and entertainment Yotel $$
docks. There’s a “pod” to suit 570 10th Ave, 10036
everyone, from solo travelers Tel (646) 449-7700 Map 7 C1 Business
to families. ∑ yotel.com Downtown
A massive hotel with futuristic-
DK Choice looking rooms designed to Best Western Seaport Inn $
maximize space. Some rooms
33 Peck Slip, 10038
Pod 51 $ have retractable bunks ideal for Tel (212) 766-6600 Map 2 D2
230 East 51st St, 10022 kids or those traveling in a group. ∑ seaportinn.com
Tel (212) 355-0300 Map 13 B4 Automated check in/checkout. Splendid views of Brooklyn
∑ thepodhotel.com Bridge from the terrace rooms.
One of New York City’s best Upper Manhattan Traditional decor, and a 24-hour
budget hotels – rooms are fitness center.
small and “pod-like” but savvily Astor on the Park $
outfitted with colorful furnishings, 465 Central Park West, 10025 Holiday Inn Lower East Side $$
comfortable beds, and flatscreen Tel (212) 866-1880 Map 21 A5 150 Delancey St, 10002
TVs. The lobby features bright Snug, clean rooms with cable TV Tel (212) 475-2500 Map 5 B4
murals, communal tables, a and marble bathrooms. Snack ∑ ihg.com
friendly concierge, and a café/bar machines and laundry services Branch of the reliable international
with a daily happy hour. Relax are available. chain. Simple but comfortable
on the rooftop, surrounded by rooms with plush beds and
the skyscrapers of Midtown. Chic & Budget Rooms ergonomic desk chairs.
& Apartments $
269 West 131st St, 10027 Marriott Downtown $$
La Quinta Manhattan $ Tel (917) 464-3528 Map 21 A1 85 West St, 10006
17 West 32nd St, 10001 ∑ chicandbudget.com Tel (212) 385-4900 Map 1 B3
Tel (212) 736-1600 Map 8 E3 These comfortable, well- ∑ marriott.com
∑ applecorehotels.com maintained apartments have Business-oriented hotel with
Comfortable rooms with coffee been built in historic brown- elegantly decorated rooms.
machines. Complimentary stones in Harlem. The rooms Some rooms have great views
breakfast; lovely rooftop bar. come with modern amenities. of the Statue of Liberty.
For more information on types of hotels see pp282–3
284-289_EW_New_York_City.indd 287 4/3/17 12:08 PM
288 TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS
Wyndham Garden French-Renaissance building with The Greenwich Hotel $$$
Chinatown $$ an ornate lobby and sophisticated 377 Greenwich St, 10013
93 Bowery, 10002 rooms. There’s a fitness center, and Tel (212) 941-8900 Map 1 B1
Tel (212) 329-3400 Map 5 A5 two hotel restaurants. ∑ thegreenwichhotel.com
∑ wyndham.com This old-world hotel is part-
Contemporary rooms and all Renaissance New York owned by actor Robert De Niro.
modern amenities, such as free Hotel 57 $$$ Though every room is different,
Wi-Fi and a gym. Good location, 130 East 57th St, 10022 each is stylishly decorated. The
just a few minutes’ walk from Tel (212) 753-8841 Map 13 A3 hotel’s Italian restaurant, Locanda
Little Italy, Chinatown, and SoHo. ∑ newyorkhotel57.com Verde, is highly recommended.
Trendy hotel with impeccably
Midtown kept spacious rooms, hard- Ritz-Carlton $$$
wood floors, and spotless
Battery Park
Millennium Broadway $ marble bathrooms. 2 West St, 10004
145 West 44th St, 10036 Tel (212) 344-0800 Map 1 B4
Tel (212) 768-4400 Map 12 E5 ∑ ritzcarlton.com
∑ millenniumhotels.com Farther Afield This contemporary yet classic
Choose from over 700 spacious Sheraton LaGuardia $$$ hotel is ideally situated by the
and comfortable rooms at this East Hotel city’s waterfront. Some rooms
hotel; popular with corporates. 135–20 39th Ave, Queens, 11354 have stunning views of the
Tel (718) 460-6666 Statue of Liberty – there are even
Murray Hill East Suites $ ∑ sheratonlaguardiaeast.com telescopes to get a close-up look.
149 East 39th St, 10016 This 16-story hotel features
Tel (212) 661-2100 Map 9 A1 simple but well-maintained Trump SoHo $$$
∑ murrayhillsuites.com rooms with coffee makers. The 246 Spring St, 10013
Residential-style accommodations high demand for accommo- Tel (212) 842-5500 Map 4 D4
with suites, each with a fully dation in this area drives the ∑ trumphotelcollection.com/soho
equipped kitchenette. The prices up. Stay at businessman turned US
minimum stay here is 30 days. President Donald Trump’s
looming luxury hotel. The hotel
Affinia Dumont $$ spa, complete with hammam,
150 East 34th St, 10016 Luxury offers an array of treatments.
Tel (212) 481-7600 Map 9 A2
∑ affinia.com Downtown Midtown
Upscale rooms that resemble Gansevoort Meatpacking $$$
apartments, with full kitchenettes. 18 Ninth Ave, 10014 Algonquin Hotel $$
Get pampered in the spa or work Tel (212) 206-9700 Map 3 B1 59 West 44th St, 10036
out at the fitness center. ∑ gansevoorthotelgroup.com Tel (212) 840-6800 Map 12 F5
Enjoy spectacular panoramic ∑ algonguinhotel.com
Four Points by Sheraton $$ views of the city at this chic hotel. Home of the famous literary
160 West 25th St, 10001 The 45-foot heated rooftop pool “Round Table”, a group of writers
Tel (212) 627-1888 Map 8 42 is an obvious draw. and actors who met here for
∑ starwoodhotels.com lunch nearly every day during
Plush, well-maintained rooms, Gramercy Park Hotel $$$ the1920s.
some with balconies. Cozy 2 Lexington Ave, 10010
restaurant and bar. Tel (212) 920-3300 Map 9 A4 Hilton Times Square $$
∑ gramercyparkhotel.com 234 West 42nd St, 10036
Hotel 48Lex $$ Drawing heavily on its Bohemian Tel (212) 840-8222 Map 8 E1
517 Lexington Ave, 10017 heritage, this opulent hotel is ∑ hilton.com
Tel (212) 838-1234 Map 13 A5 filled with original artwork. Expect great service and elegant,
∑ hotel48lexnewyork.com well-equipped rooms at this
Great for corporate travelers, this branch of the international chain.
high-end hotel has suites with Some rooms have spectacular
landscaped terraces. Great on- views of the city.
site restaurant.
Kitano $$
Radio City Apartments $$ 66 Park Ave, 10017
142 West 49th St, 10019 Tel (212) 885-7000 Map 13 A5
Tel (212) 730-0728 Map 12 E5 ∑ kitano.com
∑ radiocityapts.com The city’s only Japanese-owned
Cozy lodgings, from studios to hotel. Feast on kaiseki in the hotel
one-bedroom suites, most with restaurant, make the most of the
kitchenettes. Penthouse options complimentary green tea, and
available. There is a great on-site enjoy the superlative service.
Italian restaurant for guests.
Sofitel $$
Radisson Martinique 45 West 44th St, 10036
on Broadway $$ Tel (212) 354-8844 Map 12 F5
49 West 32nd St, 10001 ∑ sofitel-new-york.com
Tel (212) 736-3800 Map 3 F3 A warm blend of the contem-
∑ radisson.com porary and classic fills this 30-story
Just a block away from the Empire Exterior of The Greenwich Hotel, building. Rooms on higher floors
State Building is this historic Downtown feature splendid views.
Key to Prices see p284
284-289_EW_New_York_City.indd 288 4/3/17 12:08 PM
WHERE T O ST A Y 289
W Times Square $$
1567 Broadway, 10036
Tel (212) 930-7400 Map 12 E5
∑ wnewyorktimessquare.com
Upscale yet personable, with
well-equipped, brightly
decorated rooms, a popular
restaurant, and a lively bar scene.
Waldorf Astoria $$
301 Park Ave, 10022
Tel (212) 355-3000 Map 13 A5
∑ waldorfnewyork.com
Presidents and heads of state
have all graced this luxury
hotel. Come here to experience
great sophistication. The lobby
is gorgeous.
Four Seasons
New York $$$ Spacious outdoor seating area at The Surrey, Upper Manhattan
57 East 57th St, 10022 Upper Manhattan
Tel (212) 758-5700 Map 13 A3 Le Parker Meridien $$$
∑ fourseasons.com 118 West 57th St, 10019 Carlyle $$$
The crown jewel in the Four Tel (212) 245-5000 Map 12 E3 35 East 76th St, 10021
Seasons chain, this luxury ∑ parkermeridien.com Tel (212) 744-1600 Map 17 A5
masterpiece has stunning Spacious designer rooms, great ∑ rosewoodhotels.com
views of Central Park. service, and a rooftop pool. Frequented by celebrities and
Serves superb burgers. royalty, this esteemed hotel –
Langham Place $$$ with sophisticated interiors
400 5th Ave, 10018 Peninsula New York $$$ and ultra-elegant decor – offers
Tel (212) 695-4005 Map 8 F2 700 Fifth Ave, 10019 phenomenal service and a
∑ langhamhotels.com Tel (212) 956-2888 Map 12 F4 wonderful afternoon tea.
A classy hotel with spacious ∑ newyork.peninsula.com
suites filled with all modern The Asian chain’s Big Apple Mandarin Oriental $$$
amenities, including espresso outpost offers well-appointed, 80 Columbus Circle, 10023
machines and rain shower. Views plush rooms and an indulgent Tel (212) 805-8800 Map 12 D3
of the Manhattan skyline. spa to unwind in after a long day. ∑ mandarinoriental.com
A dramatic hotel with Asian-
The London NYC $$$ The Plaza $$$ inspired opulence. Over 200
151 West 54th St, 10019 768 5th Ave, 10019 luxuriously appointed rooms
Tel (212) 307-5000 Map 2 E4 Tel (212) 759-3000 Map 12 F3 and a trendy bar. Enjoy stellar
∑ thelondonnyc.com ∑ theplazany.com views of Central Park and get
A mural of London’s Hyde Park This magnificent 1907 grande pampered in the spa.
defines this grand hotel. dame effortlessly combines
traditional decor with modern The Pierre $$$
Lotte New York Palace $$$ facilities. Exceptional service. 2 East 61st St, 10021
455 Madison Ave, 10022 Tel (212) 838-8000 Map 12 F3
Tel (212) 888-7000 Map 13 A4 DK Choice ∑ thepierreny.com
∑ lottenypalace.com A grand lobby gives way to
A lavish hotel that lives up Ritz-Carlton impeccable rooms with gracious
to its name. Set in an 1882 Central Park $$$ interiors. Service is sophisticated
landmark building with a 50 Central Park South, 10019 and includes a special room-
lovely courtyard. Tel (212) 308-9100 Map 12 F3 service menu for pets.
∑ ritzcarlton.com
DK Choice This luxury hotel maximizes Sherry-Netherland $$$
its proximity to Central Park at
781 5th Ave, 10022
Omni Berkshire Place $$$ every turn – each floor features Tel (212) 355-2800 Map 12 F3
21 East 52nd St, 10022 great views of the greenery. ∑ sherrynetherland.com
Tel (212) 753-5800 Map 12 F4 The stylish rooms and white- An old-world hotel with
∑ omnihotels.com glove service are signature enormous and well-appointed
Superlative service and Ritz-Carlton – this hotel is suites. Indulge in luxury living
modern, well-equipped among the very best in the city. and top-of-the-line service.
rooms with marble bathrooms
make this an ideal choice The Surrey $$$
for business travelers and St. Regis $$$ 20 East 76th St, 10021
families. Work out in the 2 East 55th St, 10022 Tel (212) 288-3700 Map 17 A5
fully equipped fitness center Tel (212) 753-4500 Map 12 F4 ∑ thesurrey.com
with a sun deck, followed ∑ stregisnewyork.com Check into one of this luxurious
by creative cocktails and A 1904 Beaux Arts building, with hotel’s suites, many of which
delicious cuisine in the a butler for every floor. Don’t miss have kitchens. Features a roof
Fireside Restaurant. the Bloody Mary, a signature garden, fitness center, and great,
cocktail of the St. Regis group. personalized service.
For more information on types of hotels see pp282–3
284-289_EW_New_York_City.indd 289 4/3/17 12:08 PM
290 TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
New Yorkers love to eat well, and in the perennially popular. The restaurants cited in
five boroughs there are more than 25,000 our listings have been selected as the best that
restaurants. City dwellers avidly read restaurant New York can offer across a wide price range.
reviews in magazines and websites such as While the information on pages 294–305 will
New York (www.nymag.com), to ensure that help you to select a suitable restaurant, there
they are seen in the latest fashionable place. are details of places for a lighter bite on pages
“In” restaurants and cuisines change with 306–8. New York Bars on pages 309–11 suggests
great regularity, while some haunts remain some of the city’s best drinking spots.
acceptable, even first-rate, MasterCard, and American
restaurants where you can eat Express. Traveler’s checks in US
well at a mod erate cost – around dollars are accepted in some
$25 per person for a decent, restaurants, but don’t count
filling meal, not including drinks – on it. Diners and coffee shops
in attractive surroundings. may accept cash only. In fast-
For dinner at a trendy New food chains, you order at the
American venue with a star chef, counter and pay cash in advance.
the bill could be upward of $100
to $200 per person, excluding
drinks. Many top restaurants do,
Shake Shack (see p295), bustling with however, offer tasting menus,
people at Madison Square Park where the courses (usually 3 to
5 or more) are fixed by the chef.
Restaurant Menus
This is a cheaper way of enjoying
Meals in most of the better a good meal than choosing
restaurants consist of three dishes from the à la carte menu. Elegant interiors of the Venetian-inspired
courses: an appetizer (starter), Lunch is less expensive than al di la trattoria (see p305)
an entrée (the main course), and dinner in such places and,
a dessert. In some fine restaurants because of the profusion of
you may be offered a few compli- business diners, lunch is often Dining on a Budget
mentary extras. Appetizers at the busiest period of the day. Despite the tales of $200 business
the better restaurants are lunches, there are ways to stretch
sometimes the chef’s most a meal budget in New York.
creative dishes. Coffee or tea Taxes and Tipping Order fewer courses than you
and a dessert ordinarily conclude The New York City and state would normally. Ameri can por-
the meal in restaurants above sales tax of 8.875 per cent will be tions are huge, and an appetizer
the coffee-shop level. Some also added to your bill. Service is not is often big enough for a light
offer a cheeseboard. usually included. Tipping can run main course. You could share one
Traditional Italian menus offer from 10 per cent at a coffee shop with your companion or choose
antipasti (hot and cold appe- to 20 per cent at the fanciest two appetizers and no entrée.
tizers), a first course – often a places, with 15 per cent an aver- Ask your waiter if there is a
pasta dish, the main course – age fair tip. Many just double the prix-fixe menu. Many of the
usually meat or fish, and a dessert. sales tax to work out a tip. more expensive restaurants
To get a sense of a restaurant’s The bill is known as the “check” offer this at lunch and dinner –
cuisine, visit www.menupages. in the US. The most commonly in the early evening it may be
com, which features the menus accepted credit cards are Visa, called the pre-theater menu. Or
of many New York eateries. try a prix-fixe lunch buffet. These
Other local websites, including are popular in Indian restaurants
the weekly New York magazine’s and are reasonably priced.
(www.nymag.com), often have Other options for a quick and
links to restaurant menus. tasty meal are the less expensive
Chinese, Thai, and Mexican
restaurants. Pizzerias and French
Prices
bistros, as well as places that
You will always find a restaurant serve hamburgers or sandwiches,
in New York to suit your budget. also offer good value. Alterna-
At inexpensive coffee shops, tively, go to bars featuring “happy
diners, and fast-food chains, hours.” They often offer hors
$10–$15 will buy you a filling The popular Red Hook Lobster Pound d’oeuvres, which can make a
meal. There are also many (see p305) meal in themselves.
290-291_EW_New_York_City.indd 290 4/3/17 11:42 AM
WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 291
If you simply want to see inside
the restaurants every visitor has
heard about, such as Gotham Bar
and Grill or Jean Georges, just go
to have a drink and soak up the
atmosphere. Many restaurants
post their menus or will let you
see them before you are seated,
which is good for checking
prices in advance. During
Restaurant Week (held in Jan/
Feb and Jun/Jul), you can dine in
some of the city’s restaurants for Minimalist interiors of the Italian restaurant, Hearth (see p297)
a fraction of the usual cost –
visit www.nycgo.com. Waits of an hour at the most table can be difficult, and reser-
popular spots are not unusual. vations should be made as early
as two months in advance.
Hours Many reservations can be made
Smoking
Breakfast hours are usually from online through Opentable (www.
7 to 10:30 or 11am. Sunday brunch, Smoking is illegal in all bars and opentable.com).
a popular meal, is served at many restaurants. The only exceptions
restaurants between around 11am are owner-operated bars that Recommended
and 3pm. Lunch runs from have special smoking rooms.
11:30am or noon to 2:30pm at Restaurants
most places, but the busiest New York City offers an amazing
time of the day is 1pm. Dinner is Children array of cuisines (see The Flavors of
usually served from 5:30 or 6pm When eating out with children, ask New York, pp292–3), from Spanish,
onward. The most popular time is if there’s a child’s menu with half- Greek, and Italian to local New
around 7:30 or 8pm. portions. The prices are reduced, York fare, along with a wide range
Some restaurants stop serving at often by half. Dining out in the of dining establishments. Our
10pm during the week, or 11pm more formal New York restaurants restaurants are divided into five
on Friday and Saturday. Certain is certainly not a family affair but geographical areas: Downtown
informal restaurants are open from children are accepted in more encompasses Lower Manhattan
11:30am to 10pm. Coffee shops casual restaurants. Many family- and the Civic Center, the Lower
are open long hours, from 7am friendly restaurants have facilities East Side, Chinatown, Little Italy,
to midnight or even 24 hours. for babies or toddlers. SoHo and TriBeCa, Greenwich
Village, the East Village, and
Gramercy and the Flatiron District.
Dress Codes Wheelchair Access Midtown covers both Lower and
Few restaurants demand that While many restaurants may be Upper Midtown, as well as Chelsea
male diners dress formally, able to accommodate a wheel- and the Garment District and
though a jacket or a jacket and chair, always mention your Midtown West and the Theater
tie might be required. At most requirements when making your District, which offers a host of
restaurants, for both men reservation. Many of the smaller restau rants with menus for
and women, smart “business places cannot cater to disabled the Broadway-bound. Upper
casual” suffices. customers due to lack of space. Manhattan includes the Upper
Women tend to dress up when East Side, which features many
dining at the more expensive Celebrity Chefs upscale restaurants, the Upper
restaurants. If you are unsure, West Side, Morning side Heights,
check what the dress code is New York has numerous celebrity and Harlem. Brooklyn also boasts
when you make your reservation. flagships – traveling food an inventive culinary scene while
connoisseur Anthony Bourdain Farther Afield includes restau-
founded Les Halles; Mario Batali rants in Queens, which often
Reservations
helms several restaurants, such have an international flavor.
It is wise to make reservations at as Babbo and Eataly; David Throughout our listings, we’ve
any restaurant above the diner/ Chang is behind the Momofuku marked recommended restaurants
fast-food level, especially on week- phenomenon; and Anita Lo as DK Choice. We’ve chosen these
ends. Some of the trendiest (Annisa), Daniel Boulud (Daniel), restaurants because they offer a
restaurants won’t accept book- Bobby Flay (Bar Americain), and special experience – either for the
ings, or won’t take them less than Eric Ripert (Le Bernardin), all call superb cuisine, for enjoying a
two months in advance. Make the city home. uniquely New York night out
reservations for lunch at a Mid- A meal in a top restaurant will surrounded by locals, for the
town restaurant as places here not come cheaply, but it can be excellent value, or a combination
are popular with business diners. worth the splurge. Booking a of these.
290-291_EW_New_York_City.indd 291 4/3/17 11:42 AM
292 TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS
The Flavors of New York
Few cities can match the diversity of New York’s restaurants. Reflecting the
city’s melting pot of nationalities, foods range from the “hautest” of French
and continental cuisine to arguably the freshest sushi outside of
Tokyo. Caribbean, Mexican, Thai, Vietnamese, Korean, Greek, Indian –
all are well represented, and every block seems to have an Italian
restaurant. The quality of the city’s top restaurants is unsurpassed,
and their chefs are superstars, as well known and revered as movie
idols. So many nationalities are represented in the city’s culinary
culture, however, that only a few foods are actually native to it. Dim sum
served with cream cheese and a flat, chewy flourdusted
smoked salmon. The bagel, roll with a center indentation
once synonymous with New filed with toasted onions. The
York, has become a universal finest examples of each are
American food, but a true New to be found in the kosher
York bagel is nothing like the bakeries of the Lower East
bready imitations found in the Side (see pp86–95).
hinterlands. It is shaped by
hand, and the dough is The Greenmarket
cooked briefly in boiling water
before being baked, resulting You may find yourself
in a unique firm and chewy next to a wellknown chef
texture. A relative, and another browsing at New York’s
New York specialty, is the bialy, greenmarkets, openair
Fresh, local produce on display at Pastrami on rye Bagels with smoked
the Greenmarket Blintzes salmon and cream cheese
Dill pickles Pickled
Deli Dining herrings
A large Jewish population has
given rise to some of New
York’s best known specialties,
now enjoyed by all – over
stuffed corned beef and
pastrami sandwiches, dill
pickles, matzoball soup,
herrings, blintzes, and bagels Selection of classic foods available at any New York deli
New York Specialties
While New York dining may span
all nations, a few special dishes
are closely associated with the
city. Manhattan Clam Chowder,
prepared with tomatoes rather than
cream, has been popular ever since it
was introduced at Coney Island beach
stands in the 1880s. In the city’s many
Pretzels
steakhouses, a prime selection is the “New York
strip steak,” a boneless sirloin cut from the short loin, the
tenderest portion of beef. Italian cuisine has often been given a New
York spin. Rich and creamy New York cheesecake is made with
cream cheese rather the Italian ricotta. And, since traditional wood Manhattan clam chowder This
burning ovens were impractical in New York, the first Italian is a rich blend of potatoes, onions,
immigrant chefs used coal ovens. Though these are rare today, tomatoes, oyster crackers,
purists still insist they are necessary for a true New York pizza. crumbs, and clams.
292-293_EW_New_York_City.indd 292 4/3/17 11:42 AM
WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 293
is said to have origin ated to
serve musicians leaving jazz
clubs in the wee hours.
Asian Food
Chinese restaurants and
dim sum parlors have long
been found throughout the
city, but lately they have been
challenged by the arrival
of many excellent Thai and
Vietnamese restaurants. All
Fast food cart on a Manhattan street corner, selling hot dogs and sodas these, however, take second
place to the multiplying sushi
markets where farmers from Soul Food bars and high-profile, highly
upstate New York sell freshly praised Japanese eateries.
picked fruits and vegetables, as Harlem is America’s most
well as meat, poultry, and dairy famous African-American DELICATESSEN
products. Dozens of chefs community, and restaurants CLASSICS
patronize the greenmarkets, so here are the place to sample
you’ll find ultra-fresh local specialties from the Deep Babkas Slightly sweet, yeasted
produce on many menus in South, such as fried chicken, coffee cakes.
the city. As many as 70 vendors ribs, collard greens, yams, and Blintzes Crêpes filled with
attend the biggest of the cornbread. A popular Har lem sweetened soft white cheese
markets in Union Square on dish, fried chicken and waffles, and/or fruit and sautéd.
Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Chopped liver Chicken livers
and Saturday (see p125).
mashed with minced onion,
hard-cooked eggs and schmaltz
Street Food (chicken fat).
Pickled Street food is a favorite choice Gefilte fish Minced white fish
herrings in a fast-moving city. Hot dogs dumplings poached in fish broth.
and over sized soft pretzels A holiday dish.
are classic New York choices, Knishes Soft dough shells filled
along with some surprisingly with oniony mashed potatoes.
good food-cart specialties, Latkes Grated potato, onion,
from falafel to soup to and matzo-meal pancakes.
barbecue to Texas chili, all Rugelach Rich, cream-cheese-
ready to eat on the run. In dough pastries filled with jam,
winter, vendors all over town An Asian produce store in chopped nuts, and raisins.
offer hot roasted chestnuts. New York’s Chinatown
New York-style pizza Thin- New York strip steak Typically New York cheesecake This
crusted, a true New York served with creamed spinach, is a dense, rich, baked cake
pizza must be baked in a fries, or hash-browns, this with a crust of pastry or
coal-fired oven. tender steak is hard to beat. graham crackers.
292-293_EW_New_York_City.indd 293 4/3/17 11:42 AM
294 TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS
Where to Eat and Drink
Price Guide
The following prices are for a three-
course meal per person, with a half-bottle
of house wine, including tax and service.
$ under $50
$$ $50–$90
$$$ over $90
DK Choice
Katz’s Delicatessen $
Deli Map 5 A3
205 East Houston St, 10002
Tel (212) 254-2246
A New York institution, this
Jewish deli serves towering
pastrami or corned-beef
Diners at Katz’s Delicatessen, Downtown sand wiches, and other local
delicacies. Vegetarians can relish
Corner Bistro $ the fat knishes (potato, meat,
Downtown American Map 3 C1 and cabbage dumplings), split
331 West 4th St, 10014 pea soup, and potato latkes.
Adrienne’s Pizza Bar $ Tel (212) 242-9502
Pizza Map 1 C4 Some of the best burgers in
54 Stone St, 10004 the city make this dive bar a Lil’ Frankies $
Tel (212) 248-3838 cult favorite. After your meal, American Map 5 A2
Munch on thin-crust square pizzas choose from the extensive menu 19–21 First Ave, 10003
at this neighborhood favorite. of local beer. Tel (212) 420-4900
Also try the antipasti. Hip neighborhood pizzeria with
Dumpling Man $ a backyard garden for alfresco
Angelica Kitchen $ Chinese Map 5 A1 dining. Pizzas are made in a
Vegetarian Map 5 A1 100 St. Mark’s Place, 10009 wood-fired brick oven.
300 East 12th St, 10003 Tel (212) 505-2121
Tel (212) 228-2909 Tiny eatery serving classic Lombardi’s $
Try innovative vegetarian cuisine, northern Asian-style dumplings: American Map 4 F4
from aromatic soups and fresh fried or steamed, and stuffed with 32 Spring St, 10012
salads to creatively prepared pork, chicken, tofu, or veggies. Tel (212) 941-7994
pasta dishes. All ingredients on Soups and salads also available. One of the top pizzerias in the city,
the menu are grown organically, with thin, charred, brick-oven-
and bottled beverages of any Ippudo $ baked pizzas topped with every-
kind are not offered. Japanese Map 4 F1 thing from eggplant to pepperoni.
65 Fourth Ave, 10003 Home-made meatballs and clam
Buvette $ Tel (212) 388-0088 pie are also popular dishes.
French Map 3 C2 Fukuoka-based Shigemi Kawahara,
42 Grove St, 10014 also known as the “Ramen King”, Mighty Quinn’s Barbeque $
Tel (212) 243-9579 set up this popular ramen shop, American Map 4 F2
This exquisite restaurant serves with its communal tables and 103 Second Ave, 10003
the best egg breakfasts in the booths. Enjoy the steaming bowls Tel (212) 219-2000
city, as well as tempting small of classic tonkotsu-style (pork bone This Texas-inspired barbecue joint
plates like salted butter and broth) noodles. has a lip-smacking menu of bris-
anchovies. ket, ribs, and pulled pork, accom-
Ivan Ramen $ panied by burnt-end baked beans.
Caracas Arepa Bar $ Japanese Map 5 B3
Venezuelan Map 5 A2 25 Clinton St, 10002 Mission Cantina $
93½ East 7th St, 10009 Tel (646) 678-3859 Mexican Map 5 A3
Tel (212) 228-5062 Adorned with a massive papier- 172 Orchard St, 10002
Small but perennially packed joint mâché mural, this charming eatery Tel (212) 254-2233
with flavorful Venezuelan fare. The serves favorites such as dandan A whimsical menu with three
specialty is arepas (corn cakes noodles and red chili ramen. types of dishes: raw, sharing, and
with a variety of savory fillings). plates. Try the masa-fried fish
Have them as a snack or a meal. Joe’s Shanghai $ burritos, yellowfin tuna ceviche,
Chinese Map 4 F5 and the spiced chicken wings.
Congee Village $ 9 Pell St, 10013
Chinese Map 5 A4 Tel (212) 233-8888 Nom Wah Tea Parlor $
100 Allen St, 10002 A downtown institution, this Chinese Map 4 F5
Tel (212) 941-1818 bustling restaurant makes 13 Doyers St, 10013
Bustling restaurant specializing in delectable dumplings stuffed Tel (212) 962-6047
congee, a hot rice porridge with with everything from pork to An elegant, old-fashioned dim
meat or fish and spices. The frag- vegetables. Be sure to try the sum parlor from the 1920s with
rant noodle dishes are good too. special soup dumplings. an inventive menu. Enjoy a
294-305_EW_New_York_City.indd 294 4/3/17 12:08 PM
WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 295
variety of snacks, from taro and DK Choice tasting menu, based on the
shrimp dumplings to egg rolls week’s harvest.
and salt-and-pepper shrimps. Balthazar $$
French Map 4 E4 Blue Ribbon Bakery $$
The Paris Café $ 80 Spring St, 10012 American Map 4 D3
American Map 2 D2 Tel (212) 965-414 35 Downing St, 10014
119 South St, 10038 This bistro’s hopping Tel (212) 337-0404
Tel (212) 240-9797 atmosphere is hard to resist, A small plates menu of excellent
This old-fashioned tavern, especially once you’ve caught locavore cuisine, from barbecued
established in 1873, is more a glimpse of it through the pork to organic salads. Wash
Irish pub than French bistro. large windows overlooking it down with the excellent
Enjoy a pub-food menu, Spring Street. Restaurateur selection of local beers.
Guinness and live sports on TV. Keith McNally’s brasserie empire
is crowned by this stylish Blue Smoke $$
Pho Pasteur $ place, which rolls out French American Map 9 A3
Vietnamese Map 4 F5 favorites – steak frites, oysters, 116 East 27th St, 10016
85 Baxter St, 10013 and Bordeaux wine – for a lively Tel (212) 447-7733
Tel (212) 608-3656 crowd, from SoHo literati to Esteemed restaurateur Danny
Sample excellent Vietnamese fashionistas in stilettos. Meyer delivers authentic pit BBQ
rolls and hot noodle soup with at its finest. Try the ribs or pulled-
beef brisket or fish balls at this pork sandwiches, both dripping
tiny, but very popular, eatery. Battery Gardens $$ with juices. There is an excellent
American Map 1 C4 jazz club downstairs with two
Shake Shack $ Opposite 17 State St, 10004 sets every evening.
American Map 9 A4 Tel (212) 809-5508
Southeast corner of Madison Square This eatery’s unique waterside Boqueria $$
Park, near Madison Ave and East location makes it worth a visit. Spanish tapas Map 4 D4
23rd St, 10010 The Mediterranean-influenced 171 Spring St, 10012
Tel (212) 889-6600 American fare is decent, but Tel (212) 343-4255
Sink your teeth into juicy burgers the phenomenal views of the Taste Barcelona-style tapas
and crinkle-cut fries at this Statue of Liberty also merit along with sangria, in this
perennially popular shack, where a visit. lively, vibrant place. Try grilled
guests can eat under the cool squid, lamb meatballs, and
shade of trees. Delicious shakes. Beauty & Essex $$ creamy croquettes with ham.
American Map 5 B3 The restaurant works closely
Aquagrill $$ 146 Essex St, 10002 with local farmers to get fresh,
Seafood Map 4 D4 Tel (212) 614-0146 local ingredients.
201 Spring St, 10012 Extremely elegant, sophisticated,
Tel (212) 274-0505 and spacious. Serves global Brother Jimmy’s BBQ $$
Calling all seafood lovers: this small plates and offers an American Map 9 A3
restaurant, with an outdoor patio, elaborate pre-selected menu 181 Lexington Ave, 10016
serves the freshest fish and shellfish for large groups. Tel (212) 779-7427
in town, accom panied by aromatic Carnivores will swoon at
sauces. Great seafood platter. Blue Hill $$ this rowdy restaurant with
American Map 4 E4 “finger-lickin“ BBQ. Thanks to
Artisanal $$ 75 Washington Place, 10011 the generous portions, it offers
French Map 9 A4 Tel (212) 539-1776 great value for money.
387 Park Ave S, 10016 This restaurant uses the freshest
Tel (212) 725-8585 ingredients sourced from Bubby’s $$
Dashing bistro with elegant interiors. local farms. Try the smoked American Map 4 D5
Try the elaborate cheese platter salmon with beet purée, 120 Hudson St, 10013
and the fondues. Superb selection and check out the elaborate Tel (212) 219-0666
of cocktails. Great desserts. five-course “Farmer’s Feast“ Bubby’s offers hearty traditional
fare and famous pies that
are rolled by hand and made
with locally grown ingredients.
Try the Arkansas red velvet
cake or apple pie with creamy
ice cream. Arguably the best
place to sample established
American recipes.
Dos Caminos $$
Mexican Map 4 F3
475 West Broadway, 10012
Tel (212) 277-4300
Fresh Mexican cuisine, such as
thick guacamole served with
warm tortilla chips and grilled
chicken, as well as potent
tequilas, draw daily crowds to
this rather boisterous restaurant.
Elegant interiors at Aquagrill, Downtown Popular for brunch.
For more information on types of restaurants see p291
294-305_EW_New_York_City.indd 295 4/3/17 12:08 PM
296 TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS
Low lighting and rustic decor at Da Silvano, Downtown
Craft $$ Edi & the Wolf $$ Freemans $$
American Map 9 A5 Austrian Map 5 B2 American Map 5 A3
43 East 19th St, 10003 102 Ave C, 10009 Freeman Alley, near Rivington, 10002
Tel (212) 780-0880 Tel (212) 598-1040 Tel (212) 420-0012
Creative chef Tom Colicchio This rustic restaurant is inspired This fashionable restaurant,
offers a “deconstructed” menu by the casual neighborhood hiding at the end of an alley, has
that celebrates fresh ingredients. taverns in Austria. Feast on a menu reminiscent of a 1950s
Try the roasted swordfish or traditional Austrian dishes such as supper party, with rum-soaked
rabbit loin, or braised beef pork schnitzel, making sure to ribs and stiff cocktails. Old-world
short ribs. Be sure to taste the leave room for a delicious pastry American tavern-style decor.
mouthwatering desserts. dessert. Good choice of wines.
DK Choice
Da Silvano $$ Empellón Cocina $$
Italian Map 4 D3 Mexican Map 5 A2 Gramercy Tavern $$
260 Sixth Ave, 10014 105 First Ave, 10003 American Map 9 A5
Tel (212) 982-2343 Tel (212) 780-0999 42 East 20th St, 10003
A Tuscan restaurant that’s better Innovative, but rooted in Tel (212) 477-0777
known for its celebrity clientele authentic Mexican style, this Enjoy a warm welcome at this
than its cuisine. Coveted outdoor restaurant blends the classic New York City favorite.
tables and gently lit interiors and the contemporary. Try Combining simple elegance
make for a great ambience. the lamb sweetbreads with with rustic charm, the Gramercy
pumpkin seeds. Tavern serves up contemporary
Delmonico’s $$ American dishes using seasonal
American Map 1 C3 Fraunces Tavern $$ ingredients. Walk-in and sit in
56 Beaver St, 10004 American Map 1 C4 the Tavern, or book in advance
Tel (212) 509-1144 Closed Sun 54 Pearl St, 10004 and enjoy a multi-course meal
Established in 1837, this Tel (212) 968-1776 Closed Sun in the Dining Room. Tasting
charming steakhouse, with Historic 18th-century tavern with menus are available and the
historic murals, serves classic classic American steak and fish service is impeccable.
dishes such as the Delmonico dishes. The place has 18 craft
Steak (boneless ribeye), Lobster beers on tap.
Newburg, and Baked Alaska. Great Jones Cafe $$
American Map 4 F2
Dirt Candy $$ 54 Great Jones St, 10012
Vegetarian Map 5 A3 Tel (212) 674-9304
86 Allen St, 10009 An Elvis likeness draped with
Tel (212) 228-7732 Closed Mon Mardi Gras beads sets the tone
High-concept vegetarian cuisine, for this eatery. Enjoy the cocktails
from mint and tarragon zucchini sat the bar. Sample the Cajun
pasta to portobello mushroom Mary, and play some vinyl, old-
mousse. Everything on the menu school style, on the jukebox.
can be made vegan on request.
Les Halles $$
Dirty French $$ French Map 1 C2
French Map 5 A3 15 John St, 10038
180 Ludlow St, 10002 Tel (212) 285-8585
Tel (212) 254-3000 A lively brasserie with top-notch
Contemporary French bistro that fare, from succulent steak with
offers a tweak on classics, such as Béarnaise sauce to tasty grilled
duck à l’orange with preserved salmon to fresh salads with tangy
oranges, and brook trout with The bar area at Freemans restaurant, dressings. There is a fine selection
dried apricots and sesame. Downtown of French wine on the menu.
Key to Prices see p294
294-305_EW_New_York_City.indd 296 4/3/17 12:08 PM
WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 297
Hearth $$
Italian Map 5 A1
403 East 12th St, 10009
Tel (212) 602-1300
Feast on Tuscan-American fare at
this popular bohemian-chic rest-
aurant. Signature dishes include
marinated sardines, pan-seared
skate, and stuffed cabbage. Top
off the meal with olive-oil cake.
Hundred Acres $$
American Map 4 D3
38 MacDougal St, 10012
Tel (212) 475-7500
Tuck into farm-to-fork cuisine, Contemporary interior of Hearth, Downtown
such as juicy lamb and fried
green tomatoes, at this cozy spot. The Little Owl $$ The Mermaid Inn $$
There is a lovely garden at the American Map 3 C2 Seafood Map 5 A2
back of the restaurant. 90 Bedford St, 10014 96 Second Ave, 10003
Tel (212) 741-4695 Tel (212) 674-5870
Jane $$ Charming neighborhood joint With its New England-style
American Map 4 E3 with innovative, market-fresh, chowder, and lobster sand wiches,
100 West Houston St, 10012 Mediterranean-style cuisine. Try this casual place draws a trendy
Tel (212) 254-7000 their signature pork chops and crowd. Wash the seafood down
Casual neighborhood bistro with gravy meatball sliders. with a bottle of Brooklyn beer.
a loyal following thanks to tasty
unpretentious dishes made with DK Choice Mission Chinese Food $$
fresh, local produce. Welcoming Chinese Map 5 B5
environs are packed for the Locanda Verde $$ 171 East Broadway, 10002
popular weekend brunch service. Italian Map 4 D5 Tel (212) 529-8800
379 Greenwich St, 10013 Since its opening in 2012, Danny
Jewel Bako $$ Tel (212) 925-3797 Bowien’s San Francisco transplant
Japanese Map 4 F2 Within Robert De Niro’s Green- has developed a cult following
239 East 5th St, 10003 wich Hotel is this hugely for its creative take on fiery
Tel (212) 979-1012 Closed Sun popular taverna, renowned for Sichuan food. Favorites include
This tiny but impeccable its big, bold, family-style food. the thrice-cooked bacon and the
restaurant serves exquisite sushi. Tuck into authentic Italian sensational duck baked in clay.
Also check out the wide range dishes full of flavor, from The restaurant also has a decent
of sashimi on offer. Note that the generous pasta portions to raw bar and, more surprisingly, a
prices of dishes can quickly add soul-satisfying seafood. wood-fired pizza oven.
up – but it’s well worth it.
Momofuku Noodle Bar $$
Kesté $$ Lupa $$ Asian Map 5 A1
Pizza Map 4 D2 Italian Map 4 F3 171 First Ave, 10003
271 Bleecker St, 10014 170 Thompson St, 10012 Tel (212) 475-7899
Tel (212) 243-1500 Tel (212) 982-5089 Celebrated Korean-American
This acclaimed Italian pizza- Celebrity chef Mario Batali serves chef David Chang offers innova-
maker churns out some of the superb pasta and grilled meats tive ramen and other Japanese
city’s most delicious wood-fired, at this trattoria. It is busy most classics. Try the pork buns, and
Neapolitan-style pizzas. Inventive nights of the week, so book the fried chicken, which comes
toppings, as well as gluten-free, ahead. Enjoy a cocktail at the with pancakes.
vegetarian, and vegan options. bar while waiting for your table.
Moustache $$
Middle Eastern Map 3 C2
90 Bedford St, 10014
Tel (212) 229-2220
Hugely popular, casual eatery
with flavorful grilled lamb and
chicken and delicious, crisp
Turkish “pitzas” – pizzas made
with pita dough.
Otto $$
Italian Map 4 E1
1 Fifth Ave, 10003
Tel (212) 995-9559
Buzzing, upscale pizzeria from
chef Mario Batali. The creative
wine list features excellent
vintages from Italy. The prices are
more than reasonable and the
Attractive table settings at The Little Owl, Downtown service friendly.
For more information on types of restaurants see p291
294-305_EW_New_York_City.indd 297 4/3/17 12:08 PM
298 TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS
La Palapa $$ and ale. Try the “5 veg“ – a five
Mexican Map 5 A1 course vegetarian platter.
77 St. Mark’s Place, 10003
Tel (212) 777-2537 Spring Street Natural $$
Colorful restaurant with regional Vegetarian Map 4 F4
Mexican cooking such as baked 98 Kenmare St, 10012
catfish, plus tart Margaritas, and Tel (212) 966-0290
other tequila drinks. Wholesome dishes made with
fresh natural ingredients have
Pardon My French $$ been a neighborhood staple for
French Map 5 B2 decades. Choices include vegan
103 Ave B, 10009 macrobiotic plates.
Tel (212) 358-9683
A buzzing bistro that serves The Standard Grill $$
whole some classics such as American Map 3 B1
moules frites (mussels) and duck 848 Washington St, 10014
with apricots. The small backyard Tel (212) 645-4100
offers a chance to experience a Bustling farmhousechic bistro
relaxing dinner under the stars. with grilled steaks and burgers,
Ethnic interiors of Spice Market, which locally sourced salads, and an
Pearl Oyster Bar $$ serves Southeast Asian food, Downtown excellent assortment of ales. The
Seafood Map 4 D4 grilled Mayan shrimp is popular.
18 Cornelia St, 10014 Russ & Daughters Cafe $$
Tel (212) 691-8211 Closed Sun Jewish Map 5 A4 Stanton Social $$
This longtime favorite has a raw 127 Orchard St, 10002 American Map 5 A3
oyster bar and sinfully tasty lobster Tel (212) 475-4880 99 Stanton St, 10002
rolls. Very popular, so be prepared Incredible handrolled bagels with Tel (212) 995-0099
to wait. smoked salmon, knishes, pickled The party atmosphere and
herring, and other Yiddish classics. creative cocktails overshadow
Il Posto Accanto $$ The original Manhattan gourmet the small plates designed for
Italian Map 5 B2 branch opened this café in 2014. sharing at this trendy spot.
192 East 2nd St, 10009 There is a DJ on weekends.
Tel (212) 228-3562 Sammy’s Roumanian $$
Friendly eatery and wine bar Eastern European Map 5 A4 SUteiShi $$
that draws the crowds. There’s 157 Chrystie St, 10002 Sushi Map 2 D2
a festive atmosphere at all Tel (212) 673-0330 24 Peck Slip, 10038
times, with dim lights and Feast on steak, latkes, rubyred Tel (212) 766-2344
candles. The inexpensive red pastrami, and chopped liver at Topnotch sushi and other
wine is an added incentive. this oldworld restaurant. Have Japanese offerings in a stylish,
a local beer to top off the meal. highceilinged space. Creative,
Prune $$ There is a party room upstairs for locally themed rolls include the
American Map 5 A3 those looking to shake a leg. “King of NY” and “Peck’s Peak.”
54 East 1st St, 10003
Tel (212) 677-6221 DK Choice Tamarind $$
Small and rustic, this delightful Indian Map 4 D5
place does offshoots of Saravanaa Bhavan $$ 99 Hudson St, 10013
American favorites such as Indian/Vegetarian Map 9 A4 Tel (212) 775-9000
bacon and eggs atop a tangle 81 Lexington Ave, 10016 Feast on excellent curries and
of peppery spaghetti. Tel (212) 679-0204 succulent lamb at this vibrant
Inexpensive, allvegetarian menu, restaurant. Offers great value for
Public $$ which incorporates a dizzying money, with generous portions
Australian Map 4 F3 assortment of South Indian and a wide range of Indian
210 Elizabeth St, 10012 specialties such as Rasam, a spicy dishes to choose from.
Tel (212) 343-7011 lentil soup. Good selection of
Experience cuisine from Down Indian desserts. Friendly service Tertulia $$
Under with a classy twist at this matches the casual ambience. Spanish tapas Map 4 D2
hip restaurant. One of the high 359 Sixth Ave, 10014
lights featured on the menu is Tel (646) 559-9909
the grilled kangaroo paired with Spice Market $$ Sample smoked mussels and
a New Zealand wine. Southeast Asian Map 3 B1 steaming paella heaped with
403 West 13th St, 10014 shrimp at this vibrant tapas bar.
Red Farm $$ Tel (212) 675-2322 The menu also features an
Chinese Map 3 C2 This sensuous restaurant serves excellent selection of tapas dishes.
529 Hudson St, 10014 Southeast Asian “street food” and
Tel (212) 792-9700 fusion cocktails. Check out the pork Tocqueville $$
Local and seasonal produce vindaloo (a spicy curried dish). French Map 8 F5
drive this contemporary 1 East 15th St, 10003
Chinese joint. The menu The Spotted Pig $$ Tel (212) 647-1515 Closed Sun
includes playful dim sum British Map 3 B2 Inconspicuous gem Tocqueville
creations, such as the Pac 314 West 11th St, 10014 offers French cuisine with a
Man shrimp dumplings, and Tel (212) 620-0393 Japanese twist, including
delicious mains, such as the Upscale pub with excellent wine lavender Arctic char. Excellent
crispskin smoked chicken. list plus, of course, plenty of stout wine list.
Key to Prices see p294
294-305_EW_New_York_City.indd 298 4/3/17 12:08 PM
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From unearthing archaeological treasures at the Metropolitan Museum of Art to biking through Central Park to
strolling the streets of the artsy Soho and East and West Village neighborhoods, experience all that New York City has to offer. Plus, check out the best of the boroughs with suggested highlights for Brooklyn, Queens, Staten Island, the Bronx, and Upper Manhattan.
Included with the book is a download of the free DK Audio Walks container app, available from the Apple
Store and Google Play. Use it to scan the book's barcode and then download your five free audio walking
tours for New York.
Discover DK Eyewitness Travel Guide: New York City.
• Hotel and restaurant listings and recommendations.
• Detailed itineraries and "don't-miss" destination highlights at a glance.
• Illustrated cutaway 3-D drawings of important sights.
• Floor plans and guided visitor information for major museums.
• Free, color pull-out map (print edition) marked with sights, a selected site and street index, public transit map, practical information on getting around, and a distance chart for measuring walking distances.
• Guided walking tours, local drink and dining specialties to try, things to do, and places to eat, drink, and shop by area.
• Area maps marked with sights and restaurants.
• Detailed city maps include street finder index for easy navigation.
• Insights into history and culture to help you understand the stories behind the sights.
• Suggested day-trips and itineraries to explore beyond the city.
With hundreds of full-color photographs, hand-drawn illustrations, and custom maps that illuminate every
page, DK Eyewitness Travel Guide: New York City truly shows you what others only tell you.
Recommended: For a pocket guidebook to New York City, check out DK Eyewitness Travel Guide: Top 10 New York City, which is packed with dozens of top 10 lists, ensuring you make the most of your time and experience the best of everything.
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