(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - New York City

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CENTRAL PARK

The city’s “backyard” was designed by and lush meadows dotted throughout, and
Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux on more than 500,000 trees and shrubs. Over
an unpromising site of quarries, pig farms, the years the park has blossomed, with play-
swamp land, and shacks. Sixteen years of grounds, skating rinks, ball fields, and spaces
construction, and five million cubic yards of for every other activity, from chess and
stone, earth, and top-soil, turned it into the croquet to concerts and events. Cars are
lush 843-acre (340-ha) park of today, with its not allowed on weekends, giving bicyclists,
official opening in 1876. There are hills, lakes, in-line skaters, and joggers the right of way.
Sights at a Glance
110th St-
Historic Buildings Cathedral Parkway
B.C
Blockhouse
1 The Dairy
CENTRAL PARK
110th St
3 Belvedere Castle GREAT Central Park North- NORTH
THE
2.3
HILL
Monuments and Statues WEST D R I V E Harlem
Meer
2 Strawberry Fields 103rd St Lasker Pool
& Rink
4 Bow Bridge B.C The
Loch
The
5 Bethesda Fountain and Terrace Pool CENTRAL
Lakes and Gardens C E N T R A L P A R K W E S T PAR K
6 Conservatory Water WEST DRIVE NORTH MEADOW
EAST DR I V E
BALL
7 Central Park Zoo FIELD
8 Conservatory Garden 96th St 97TH ST TRANSVERSE RD MEADOW
B.C
EAST
SOUTH MEADOW
TENNIS COURTS
Restaurants see pp302–4 F I F T H A V E N U E
1 Loeb Boathouse Restaurant Jacqueline Kennedy
2 Tavern on the Green Onassis Reservoir
86th St
B.C
81st St- 86TH STREET TRANSVERSE RD
Museum of
Natural History
B.C
THE GREAT
LAWN
SHAKESPEARE
GARDEN Delacorte Theater
Turtle
WEST D RI V E RAMBLE 0 meters 500 500
Pond
79TH ST TRANSVERSE RD
C E N T R A L P A R K W E S T B.C 7 2ND STREET TRANSVERSE R O A D ( M U S E U M M I L E )
THE
Central
EAS T DRIV E
Park Lake
0 yards
72nd St
CHERRY
HILL
W ES T DR IVE
SHEEP
MEADOW
T H E M A L L
EAST
CENTRAL
GREEN
P ARK
BALLFIELDS
59th St- HECKSCHER EAST DRIVE
Columbus Circle
65TH ST TR ANSV ERSE ROAD
1.A.B.C.D
WOLMAN FI FT H AV E NUE
RINK See also Street Finder maps 12, 16, 21
The Pond
CENTRAL PARK SOUTH (OLMSTED WAY)
New York’s most treasured green space, Central Park For keys to symbols see back flap
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A Tour of Central Park

On a short visit, a walking tour from 59th to
79th streets takes in some of Central Park’s 2. Strawberry Fields
loveliest features, from the dense, wooded One of the park’s most
visited spots, this
Ramble to the open formal spaces of peaceful area was
Bethesda Terrace. Along the way are created in memory
man-made lakes and more than 30 graceful of John Lennon,
bridges and arches that link around 68 miles who lived nearby.
(109 km) of footpaths, bridle paths, and roads
in the park. In summer the park is often
several degrees cooler than the city streets
around it, and thus is a favorite retreat.







5. Bethesda Fountain and Terrace
The richly ornamented formal terrace overlooks
the lake and the wooded shores of the Ramble.

Wollman Rink was restored
in the 1980s for future
generations of skaters by
Donald Trump. CENTR AL P ARK WEST


7 Central Park Zoo T H SHEEP
Three climate zones U TRANSVERSE MEADOW
are home to more S O
than 150 species K
of animals. R
P A T H E M A L L
S T
L
A
R
T
N
E
C T H
5
6
F I F T H A V E N U E











1. The Dairy 6. Conservatory Water
This Victorian Gothic building houses one From March to November, this is the scene of
of the park’s visitor centers. Make it your first model boat races. Many of the tiny craft are stored
stop and pick up a calendar of park events. in the boathouse that adjoins the lake.




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CENTR AL P ARK  201


Hudson River UPPER CENTRAL East Side
PARK
4 Bow Bridge WEST SIDE
UPPER
This cast-iron bridge EAST SIDE
links the Ramble
with Cherry Hill by MIDTOWN Roosevelt I.
WEST &
a graceful arch, THE THEATER
DISTRICT
60 ft (18 m) above Locator Map
the lake.
See map pp16–17

Alice in Wonderland is
immortalized in bronze at the
northern end of Conservatory Water,
along with her friends the Cheshire
Cat, the Mad Hatter, and the
Dormouse. Children love to
slide down her toadstool seat.






CENTR AL P ARK WEST
KEY
TRANS VERSE GREEN A N S V E R S statue is a favorite Central Park
1 Hans Christian Andersen’s
E
landmark for children. It is on the
west side of Conservatory Water
L AW N
and is a popular site for storytelling
in the summer.
(see pp196–7)
3 Plaza Hotel (see p177)
T 8 6 T H S T T R 2 The Frick Collection
S
4 The Pond
H
1 9 T 5 The Dakota (see p212)
F I F T H A V E N U E 6 San Remo Apartments
(see p208)
7 American Museum of Natural
History (see pp210–11)
8 Reservoir
9 Obelisk
0 The Ramble is a wooded area
of 37 acres (15 ha), crisscrossed by
paths and streams. It is a paradise for
birdwatchers. More than 275 species
3. Belvedere of birds have been spotted in the
Castle park, which is on the Atlantic
From the migration flyway.
terraces, there
are unequaled q Metropolitan Museum
views of the city (see pp186–93)
and surrounding w Guggenheim Museum
park. Within the (see pp184–5)
stone walls is a
visitor center.


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the rooftop. Inside is the Henry
Luce Nature Observ atory, with a
delightful exhibit telling
inquisitive young visitors about
the surprising variety of wild life
to be found in the park.
The view to the north from
the castle allows you to look
down into the Delacorte
Theater, home to the free
productions of Shakespeare in
The Carousel, part of the park’s Children’s District the Park every summer, often
featuring big-name stars (see
1 The Dairy city of Naples in Italy. This p341). The theater was the gift
broad expanse of the park’s of George T. Delacorte. Publisher
Map 12 F2. Tel (212) 794-6564.
q Fifth Ave. Open 10am–5pm daily. landscape was designed by and founder of Dell paperbacks,
Slide show. = Vaux and Olmsted. Now it is Delacorte was a delightful
∑ centralparknyc.org an international peace garden, philanthropist who was
with 121 species of plants from responsible for many of the
Now used as Central Park’s across the globe, including park’s pleasures.
visitor center, this charming jetbead, roses, witch hazel,
building of natural stone was birches – and strawberries.
planned as part of the “Children’s 4 Bow Bridge
District” of the park, which Map 16 E5. q 72nd St.
included a playground, the 3 Belvedere Castle
Carousel, a Children’s Cottage, Map 16 E4. Tel (212) 772-0210. This is one of the park’s seven
and stable. In 1873, there were q 81st St. Open 10am–5pm daily. original cast-iron bridges and is
cows grazing on the meadows Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. considered one of the finest. It
in front of the Dairy, a ewe and 7 to main floor only. was designed by Vaux as a bow
her lambs feeding nearby, and tying together the two large
chickens, guinea fowl, and This stone castle atop Vista sections of the lake. In the 19th
peacocks roaming the lawn. Rock, complete with tower and century, when the Lake was
City children could get fresh turrets, offers one of the best used for ice skating, a red ball
milk and other refresh ments views of the park and the city was hoisted from a bell tower
here. Over the years, the Dairy from its lookout on on Vista Rock to signal that
deteriorated, being used as a the ice was safe. The
shed until restor ation in 1979, bridge offers
carried out according to original expansive views
photo graphs and drawings. of the park and
The Dairy is the place to begin the buildings
exploring the lush and leafy park; bordering it on
maps and details of events can both the east
be obtained here. Visitors can and west sides.
also rent chess and checkers
sets for use on the pretty inlaid
boards of the Kinderberg, the
charming “children’s hill” nearby.

2 Strawberry Fields
Map 12 E1. q 72nd St.
The restoration of this tear-
drop-shaped section of the
park was Yoko Ono’s tribute in
memory of her slain husband,
John Lennon. They lived in the
Dakota apart ments over looking
this spot (see p212). Gifts for the
garden came from all over the
world. A mosaic set in the
pathway, inscribed with the word
“Imagine” (named for Lennon’s
famous song), was a gift from the A tranquil scene in Central Park, overlooked by exclusive apartments




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CENTR AL P ARK  203


smaller Tisch Children’s Zoo, just
across 65th Street, children can
get close to goats, sheep, alpacas,
cows, and pot-bellied pigs. By its
entrance is the Delacorte Clock,
which plays nursery rhymes
every half-hour, as bronze musical
animals (such as a goat playing
panpipes) circle around it.
An 1864 print of Bethesda Fountain and Terrace Toward Willowdell Arch is
another favorite – the memorial
5 Bethesda Fountain feet. Children like to climb to Balto, leader of a team of
and Terrace on the statue and snuggle huskies that made a heroic
in the author’s lap. journey across Alaska with
Map 12 E1. q 72nd St. Conservatory Water’s serum for a diphtheria
literary links continue epidemic.
Situated between the lake and into adolescence: it is
the Mall, this is the architect ural here that J. D. Salinger’s
heart of the park, a formal Holden Caulfield comes to
element in the naturalistic tell the ducks his troubles in
landscape. The fountain was The Catcher in the Rye.
dedicated in 1873. The statue, Each spring, birdwatchers
Angel of the Waters, marked gather at the pond to see the
the opening of the Croton city’s most famous red-tailed
Aqueduct system in 1842, hawk, Pale Male, nest on the
bringing the city its first supply roof of 927 Fifth Avenue.
of pure water; its name refers Statue of Balto, the heroic husky dog,
to a biblical account of a healing Central Park Wildlife Center
angel at the pool of Bethesda 7 Central Park Zoo
in Jerusalem. The Spanish-style Map 12 F2. Tel (212) 439-6500. 8 Conservatory
detailing, such as the sculptured q Fifth Ave between 63rd and
double staircase, tiles, and 66th sts. Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri, Garden
friezes, is by Jacob Wrey Mould. 10am–5:30pm Sat, Sun & hols; Nov– Map 21 B5. q Central Pk N, 103rd St.
The terrace is one of the best Mar: 10am–4:30pm daily. Last adm: Tel (212) 860-1382. Open 8am–dusk.
spots to relax and take in some 30 mins before closing. & 7 - = 7
people-watching. ∑ centralparkzoo.com
The Vanderbilt Gate on Fifth
6 Conservatory This imaginative zoo has won Avenue is the entry to a 6-acre
plaudits for its creative and
(2.4-ha) park containing three
Water humane use of small space. formal gardens. Each one
Map 16 F5. q 77th St. More than 150 species of animals represents a different national
are represented in three climate landscape style. The Central
Better known as the Model zones: the Tropics, the Polar Garden, with a large lawn, yew
Boat Pond, this stretch of water Circle, and the California coast. hedges, crab apple trees, and a
is home to model yacht races An equatorial rainforest is home wisteria pergola recreates an
every weekend. At the north to monkeys and free-flying Italian style. The South Garden,
end of the lake, a sculpture birds, while penguins and polar spilling over with perennials,
of Alice in Wonder land is a bears populate an Arctic land- represents an English style, with
delight for children. It was scape that allows views both a bronze statue in the reflecting
commissioned by George T. above and under water. At the pool of Mary and Dickon, from
Delacorte in honor of Frances Hodgson
his wife. He himself Burnett’s The Secret
is immortalized in Garden. Beyond is a slope
caricature as the Mad with native wild flowers,
Hatter. On the west spreading into the park
bank, free story hours beyond. The North
are held at the Hans Garden, in the French
Christian Andersen style, centers around
statue. The author is Samuel Untermyer’s
portrayed reading bronze fountain of the
from his own story, Three Dancing Maidens.
“The Ugly Duckling,” It puts on a brief but
while its hero brilliant display of
waddles at his Polar bear in the Central Park Zoo annuals each summer.




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UPPER WEST SIDE

Once open farmland, this district of New mainly residential, with a blend of high-
York began to change in 1879, when the rises and old brownstones. The Lincoln
Ninth Avenue railroad made commuting to Center complex has made it something of
Midtown possible. The streets were leveled a cultural hub, while the American Museum
and graded, and the city’s first luxury of Natural History is one of the city’s most
apartment house, the Dakota, was built in popular family-friendly attractions. Some
1884. Buildings sprang up on Central Park of the grandest homes in the area can be
West and Broadway. Today, the area is spotted along Central Park West.
Sights at a Glance Restaurants see pp302–4
1 Asiate 7 Gennaro
Historic Streets and Buildings 2 Bar Boulud 8 Jean-Georges
1 Twin Towers of Central Park West 3 Café Fiorello 9 Masa
7 Columbus Circle 4 Café Frida 10 Per Se
8 Hotel des Artistes 5 Café Luxembourg 11 Picholine
9 The Dakota 6 Calle Ocho 12 Pio Pio
e Pomander Walk 13 Rosa Mexicano
r Riverside Drive and Park 14 Telepan
y The Ansonia
u The Dorilton
Museums and Galleries
0 New York Historical Society WEST 97TH ST
WEST 98TH ST
q American Museum of Natural 96th St
History pp210–11 1.2.3
w Rose Center for Earth and Space e r JOAN OF
t Children’s Museum of Manhattan v PARK WEST 96TH STREET
ARC
AMST ER DA M AV ENU E
i American Folk Art Museum R i WEST 95TH ST
B R O A D WAY

Famous Theaters PARK I V E R S I D E D R I V E WEST 94TH ST
R I V E R S I D E D R I V E R WEST 84TH ST 86th St

2 Lincoln Center for the H E N R Y H U D S O N PA R K WAY 9 A WEST END AVENUE WEST 93RD ST 96th St
B.C
Performing Arts o n WEST 90TH STREET
3 David H. Koch Theater s WEST 89TH STREET
WEST 92ND ST
4 Metropolitan Opera House u d WEST 87TH STREET
WEST 91ST STREET
86th St
5 Lincoln Center Theater H RIVERSIDE 1 C O L U M B U S A V E N U E
6 Avery Fisher Hall EDGAR ALLAN POE ST
WEST 88TH STREET
WEST 86TH ST
WEST 85TH ST
B.C
WEST 81ST STREET
79th St
WEST 83RD ST
BROADWAY
1
WEST 82ND STREET
WEST 80TH STREET
81st St-
Museum of
WEST 79TH STREET
Natural History
WEST 78TH STREET
B.C
66th St- C O L U M B U S A V E N U E
WEST 77TH STREET
0 meters 500 WEST 75TH STREET C E N T R A L P A R K W E S T
VERDI
0 yards 500 WEST 74TH STREET
SQUARE
WEST 76TH STREET
W E S T E N D A V E N U E WEST 70TH STREET 72nd St
72nd St
1.2.3
SHERMAN
WEST 73RD ST
SQUARE
A M ST ERDAM AV EN U E
WEST 72ND STREET
WEST 71ST STREET
B.C
W 69TH ST

Lincoln Center
WEST 68TH ST
1
W 64TH ST
WEST 65TH STREET
WEST 66TH ST
LINCOLN
SQUARE
2 •3
WEST 60TH ST
See also Street Finder maps
WEST 59TH ST
59th St- 11, 12, 15, 16
Columbus Circle
WEST 58TH STREET
1.A.B.C.D
The Rose Center for Earth and Space, part of the American Museum of Natural History For keys to symbols see back flap
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Street by Street: Lincoln Center

Lincoln Center was conceived when
both the Metropolitan Opera House
and the New York Philharmonic
required homes, and a large tract
on Manhattan’s west side was in dire
need of revitalization. The notion of
a single complex where different
performing arts could exist side by
side seems natural today, but in the 2. Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts
1950s it was considered both daring Dance, music, and theater come together in this fine
and risky. Today Lincoln Center has contemporary complex. It is also a great place to sit
around the fountain and people-watch.
proved itself by drawing audiences
of five million each year. Proximity
to its halls prompts both performers
and arts lovers to live nearby.

5 Lincoln Center Theater
The Vivian Beaumont and the
Mitzi E. Newhouse theaters are
both housed in this building. E
U
N
E
A V

M
D A
R
E
T
S
M
A
Composer Leonard Bernstein’s C O L U M B U S A V E N U E W 6 5 T H S T R E E T T
famous musical West Side Story, which
was based on Shakespeare’s Romeo A Y
and Juliet, was set in the impoverished
neighborhood that was razed to make ADW
room for Lincoln Center. Bernstein was W 6 2 N D S T R E E T
later instrumental in setting up the BRO
large music complex.

The Guggenheim
Bandshell in
Damrosch Park is the
site of free concerts.
3 David H. Koch Theater
This is the home of the
New York City Ballet, and
is a secondary venue for
American Ballet Theater.
The College Board
Building is an Art Deco
delight that now houses
condominiums and
4 Metropolitan Opera House the administrative offices
Lincoln Center’s focus is the Opera of the College Board,
House. The café at the top of the developers of the
lobby offers wonderful plaza views. college entrance exam.




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UPPER WEST SIDE  207


i American Folk
Art Museum
Quilting, pottery, Hudson River UPPER
and furniture are WEST SIDE CENTRAL
some of the arts PARK
displayed here.

UPPER
EAST SIDE
Locator Map
Early American quilt
See map pp16–17
8. Hotel des Artistes James Dean once lived in Key
Artists Isadora Duncan, Noël a one-room apartment on
Coward, and Norman Rockwell the top floor at 19 West Suggested route
once lived here. 68th Street.
0 meters 100
0 yards 100
To 72nd Street
subway
(4 blocks)







W 6 7 T H S T R E E T
An ABC-TV sound stage for soap operas is
housed in this castle-like building, formerly
an armory.
C O L U M B U S A V E N U E W 6 5 T H S T R E E T T K W E S T






P A R
L
A 55 Central Park West is an Art Deco
R
T apartment building, which featured in
N the film Ghostbusters.
E
C
The Society for Ethical
Culture was one of the
city’s first Art Nouveau
buildings. It also houses
a school.



To 59th Street
subway Central Park West
(2 blocks) is home to many
celebrities, who like the 1 Twin Towers of Central Park West
privacy of its highly One of a group of twin towers, the Century
exclusive apartments. building is visible from Central Park.




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broke into the Hallelujah
Chorus – and the city’s major
cultural center was born. It
soon covered 15 acres (6 ha)
on the site of the slums that
had been the setting for
Bernstein’s classic musical
West Side Story. The plaza
fountain is by Philip Johnson,
and the sculpture, Reclining
Figure, is by Henry Moore.
Jazz at the Lincoln Center has
developed a state-of-the-art
facility dedicated to a wide
range of jazz performances. It
forms part of a major complex
at Columbus Circle.
3 David H. Koch
Theater
Lincoln Center. Map 11 D2. Tel (212)
870-5570. q 66th St. 7 8 0
= See Entertainment pp340–41.
∑ nycballet.com
The home base for the highly
acclaimed New York City Ballet,
The San Remo, a twin-towered apartment house designed by Emery Roth and, until 2011, the home of
the New York City Opera, is a
1 Twin Towers of Groucho Marx, Marilyn Monroe, Philip Johnson design. It was
inaugurated in 1964.
and Richard Dreyfuss. The
Central Park West Majestic (115 CPW) and the Gargantuan white marble
Century (25 CPW) are both sleek sculptures by Elie Nadelman
Map 12 D1, 12 D2, 16 D3, 16 D5.
q 59th St-Columbus Circle, 72nd St, classics by Art Deco designer dominate the vast four-story
81St, 86th St. Closed to the public. Irwin S. Chanin. foyer. The theater seats 2,800
people. Because of its rhine-
A familiar landmark on the New 2 Lincoln stone lights and chandeliers
York skyline, the four twin- both inside and out, some
towered apartment houses on Center for the describe the theater as “a little
Central Park West were built Performing Arts jewel box.”
between 1929 and 1931, before Map 11 C2. Tel (212) 546-2656.
the Great Depression halted all q 66th St. 7 8 (212) 875-5350. 4 Metropolitan
luxury construction. They are 0 = See Entertainment pp344–5.
among the most-sought-after ∑ lincolncenter.org Opera House
residences in New York. Lincoln Center. Map 11 D2. Tel (212)
Admired today for their grace In May 1959, President Eisen- 362-6000. q 66th St. 7 8 0 =
and architectural detail, they hower traveled to New York to See Entertainment pp344–5.
were designed in response to a turn a shovelful of earth, ∑ metopera.org ∑ abt.org
city-planning law allow ing taller Leonard Bernstein lifted his
apartments if setbacks and baton, the New York Phil- Home to the Metropolitan Opera
towers were used. harmonic and the Juilliard Choir Company and the American
Emery Roth designed Ballet Theatre, “the Met”
the San Remo (145 CPW), is the most spectacular
whose tenants have of Lincoln Center’s
included Dustin Hoffman, buildings. Five great
Paul Simon, and Diane arched windows offer
Keaton. Turned down by views of the opulent
the residents’ committee, foyer and two murals by
Madonna went to live Marc Chagall. (You
close by at 1 West 64th can’t see them in the
Street. The towers of the mornings, when they
Eldorado (300 CPW), also are pro tected from the
by Roth, were home to Central plaza at Lincoln Center sun.) Inside there are




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UPPER WEST SIDE  209


curved white marble stairs, production of Samuel Beckett’s media company Time Warner
red carpeting, and exquisite Waiting for Godot. The complex has its headquarters in an
starburst crystal chandeliers also houses the New York Public 80-story skyscraper. The
that are raised to the ceiling Library for the Performing Arts, 2.8 million sq ft (260,000 sq m)
just before each performance. which has exhibits including building provides a retail, enter-
All the greats have sung here, audio cylinders of early Met tainment, and restaurant facility.
including Maria Callas, Jessye performances and original scores Facilities include shops such as
Norman, and Luciano Pavarotti. and playbills. Hugo Boss, Williams-Sonoma,
First nights are glittering, star- and Whole Foods Market; dining
studded occasions. at Per Se and Masa; and a
The Guggenheim Bandshell, 6 David Geffen Hall Mandarin Oriental hotel.
in Damrosch Park next to the Lincoln Center. Map 11 C2. Tel (212) The Time Warner Center is
Met, is a popular concert site. 875-5030. q 66th St. 7 8 0 = also home to Jazz at the Lincoln
The high point of the season is See Entertainment pp344–5. Center. The three venues here –
the Lincoln Center Out-of-Doors ∑ nyphil.org the Appel Room, the Rose
Festival, which takes place over Theater, and Dizzy’s Club
three weeks in August and Located at the northern end of Coca-Cola – together with a
features global music, dance, the Lincoln Center Plaza, Avery jazz hall of fame and education
and spoken-word performances, Fisher Hall is home to America’s center, comprise the world’s
all for free. oldest orchestra, the New York first performing-arts facility
Philharmonic. It also provides a dedicated to jazz.
stage for some of the Lincoln Other notable buildings in
Center’s own performers, and Columbus Circle include Hearst
the Mostly Mozart Festival. House, designed by British
When the venue opened in architect Lord Norman Foster,
1962 as the Philharmonic Hall, Trump International Hotel, the
critics initially complained about Maine Monument, and the eye-
the acoustics. Several structural catching Museum of Arts and
modifications, how ever, have Design, formerly the American
rendered the hall an acoustic Craft Museum.
gem, comparing favorably with
other great classical concert
halls around the world. For 8 Hotel des Artistes
Concert at Guggenheim Bandshell, a small fee, the public can 1 W 67th St. Map 12 D2. Tel (212) 877-
Damrosch Park, near the Met attend open rehearsals on 3500 (café). q 72nd St.
some Thursday mornings in
5 Lincoln Center the 2,738-seat auditorium. Built in 1918 by George Mort
Pollard, these two-story
Theater apartments were intended to
7 Columbus Circle
Lincoln Center. Map 11 C2. Tel (212) be working artists’ studios, but
362-7600 (Beaumont and Newhouse), Columbus Circle, New York. Map 12 they have attracted a variety of
(212) 870-1630 (Library). 800-432 7250 D3. q 59th St. Concerts (212) 258- famous tenants, including
(tickets). q 66th St. 7 8 0 = See 9800. ∑ jazz.org Alexander Woollcott, Norman
Entertainment pp344–5. ∑ lct.org Rockwell, Isadora Duncan,
Presiding over this urban plaza Rudolph Valentino, and Noël
Three theaters make up this at the corner of Central Park Coward. The base of the
innovative complex, where is a marble statue of explorer building’s facade is decorated
eclectic and often experimental Christopher Columbus, perched with figures of artists.
drama is presented. The theaters on top of a tall granite column
are the 1,000-seat Vivian in the center of a fountain
Beaumont, the 280-seat Mitzi E. and plantings. The statue is
Newhouse, and the 112-seat one of the few remaining
Claire Tow. Works by some of original features in this
New York’s best modern circle – it has become
playwrights have featured at the one of the largest
Beaumont. Among these was building projects
Arthur Miller’s After the Fall, the in all of New
theater’s inaugural performance York’s history.
in 1962. Multi-use
The size of the Newhouse skyscrapers have
suits workshop-style plays, but been erected,
it can still make the news with attracting national
theatrical gems such as Robin and international
Williams and Steve Martin in a businesses. Global Decorative figure on the Hotel des Artistes




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210  NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA

q American Museum of Natural History

This is one of the world’s largest natural history
museums. Since the original building opened in
1877, the complex has grown to cover four city
blocks, and today holds more than 30 million
specimens and artifacts. The most popular areas
are the dinosaurs and the Milstein Hall of Ocean
Life. The Rose Center for Earth and Space includes
the Hayden Planetarium (see p212).

The facade on W 77th Street
Gallery Guide
The museum houses 46
exhibition halls, research . Star of India
laboratories, and a library, This 563-carat gem is the
spread over 25 interconnected world’s largest blue star
buildings. Enter at Central Park sapphire. Found in Sri
West onto the second floor to Lanka, it was given to the
museum by J. P. Morgan
view the Barosaurus exhibit, in 1900.
African, Asian, Central and
South American peoples, and
animals. First-floor exhibits
include ocean life, meteors,
minerals and gems, and the Hall
of Biodiversity. North American
Indians, birds, and reptiles occu-
py the third floor. Dinosaurs,
fossil fishes, and early mammals
are on the fourth floor.








. Blue Whale
The blue whale is the largest animal, living or
extinct. Its weight can exceed 100 tons. This
replica is based on a female captured off
South America in 1925.















. Great Canoe Entrance on
This 63-ft (19.2-m) seafaring war canoe
from the Pacific Northwest was carved out W 77th St
of the trunk of a single cedar. It stands in
the Grand Gallery.




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UPPER WEST SIDE  211


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Dinosaurs
Practical Information
Central Park West at 79th St.
Map 16 D5.
Tel (212) 769-5100.
Fourth Open 10am–5:45pm daily.
floor Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25.
& 7 8 0 -
∑ amnh.org
Transport
q B, C to 81st St. @ M7, M10,
M11, M79, M104.
Komodo Dragons
The largest living lizards, which can grow
Third to 10 ft (3 m), live on Komodo and other
floor Indonesian islands.






Second
floor


African Elephants
Four of the elephants in this group were collected
and mounted in the 1920s by Carl Akeley, who
created the museum’s Hall of African Mammals.

. Barosaurus
This exhibit shows a mother
Barosaurus rearing up to protect
Rose Center for her baby from an attacking
Earth and Space predator. All three skeletons
(see p212) were cast from original fossils.
The plant-eating dinosaur lived
140 million years ago.





First Key
floor Dinosaurs and other fossil
vertebrates
Birds
Fish
Central Park Mammals
West entrance Meteorites, minerals, and gems
Human cultures
Human origins
Giant Sequoia Amphibians and reptiles
Sequoias are among the Environment and ecology
world’s longest-lived plants. Rose Center for Earth and Space
This section has 1,342 annual
rings and measures more Special exhibitions
than 16 ft (4.8 m) across. Non-exhibition space




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9 The Dakota include historical material e Pomander Walk
relating to slavery and the Civil
1 W 72nd St. Map 12 D1. q 72nd St. 261–7 W 94th St. Map 15 C2.
Closed to the public. War, an outstanding collection q 96th St.
of 18th­century newspapers,
The name and style reflect the all 435 watercolors of Look through the gate for a
fact that this apartment building Audubon’s Birds of America, delightful surprise – a double
was truly “way out West” when and the world’s largest row of tiny town houses built
Henry J. Harden bergh, the archi­ collection of Tiffany lamps in 1921 to look like the London
tect responsible for the Plaza and glasswork. There are also mews setting of a popular play
Hotel, designed it in 1880–84. fine displays of American of the same name. It was much
It was New York’s first luxury furniture and silver. favored as a home by movie
apart ment house and was actors, including Rosalind
originally surrounded by squat­ Russell, Humphrey Bogart,
ters’ shacks and wandering q American and the Gish sisters.
farm animals. Commissioned Museum of
by Edward S. Clark, heir to the Natural History
Singer sewing machine fortune,
it is one of the city’s most See pp210–11.
prestigious addresses.
The Dakota’s 65 luxurious
apartments have had many w Rose Center for
famous owners, including Judy Earth and Space
Garland, Lauren Bacall, Leonard
Bernstein, and Boris Karloff, whose Central Park West at 81st St.
ghost is said to haunt the place. Map 16 D4. Tel (212) 769­5100.
It was the setting for the film q 81st St. Open 10am–5:45pm
Rosemary’s Baby, and the site daily. IMAX show: every hour on
of the tragic murder of former the half­hour 10:30am–4:30pm;
Space show: every half­hour
Beatle John Lennon. His widow, 10:30am–4:30pm (from 11am Wed,
Yoko Ono, still lives here. to 5pm Sat & Sun). ∑ amnh.org
On the northern side of the Facade of a house on Pomander Walk, built to
American Museum of Natural resemble a medieval English neighborhood
History (see pp210–11) is the
spectacular Rose Center for
Earth and Space. Housed r Riverside Drive
within an 87­ft (27­m) sphere, and Park
the center contains the
techno logically advanced Map 15 B1–5, 20 D1–5.
Hayden Planetarium; the q 79th St, 86th St, 96th St.
Cosmic Pathway, a 350­ft
(107­m) spiral ramp with a Riverside Drive is one of the
time line chronicling 13 billion city’s most attractive streets –
years of evolution; and the broad, with lovely shaded views
Big Bang Theater, where of the Hudson River. It is lined
Carved Indian head over the entrance the origins of the universe with the opulent original town
to the Dakota are explained. houses, as well as more modern
The Hall of Planet Earth, apartment buildings. At 40–46,
0 New York centered around rock 74–77, 81–89, and 105–107
Historical Society samples and using state­of­ Riverside Drive are houses
the­art computer and video
designed in the late 19th century
170 Central Park West. Map 16 D5. displays explaining how the by local architect Clarence F. True.
Tel (212) 873­3400. q 81st St. Earth works, explores our The curved gables, bays, and
Galleries Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat geologic history. Exhibits in arched windows seem to suit
(to 8pm Fri), 11am–5pm Sun. & the Hall of the Universe the curves of the road and the
Library Open 9am–3pm Tue–Fri, present the discoveries of flow of the river.
10am–1pm Sat (varies by season). modern astrophysics. Four The bizarrely named Cliff
Closed public hols. ^ 7 8 - zones have hands­on Dwellers’ Apartments at 243
= ∑ nyhistory.org
interactive exhibits. Seen (between 96th and 97th streets)
from the street at night, the is a 1914 building with a frieze
Founded in 1804, this society Rose Center is breath taking; showing early Arizona cliff
houses a distinguished the exhibits inside prove dwellers, complete with masks,
research library and the city’s that, as Carl Sagan said, “We buffalo skulls, mountain lions,
oldest museum. Its collections are starstuff.” and rattlesnakes.



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UPPER WEST SIDE  213


adventurous cousin Diego, by the Architectural Record:
where they learn about travel “The sight of it makes strong
and cultures around the world. men swear and weak women
On weekends and holidays shrink affrighted.”
there are guest performers, What would the critics have
from puppeteers to story tellers, made of The Pythian Condom-
in the 150-seat theater. There inium, at 135 West 70th Street,
is also a gallery for free events, just a block away? Built in 1927
like “Pajama Day,” as well as for the Knights of Pythias, a
lively, theme-based tours of fraternal organization, its current
the museum. name stems from the Egyptian-
style motifs that adorned this
former Masonic lodge. Many
y The Ansonia were stripped away when the
building was convert ed to a
2109 Broadway. Map 15 C5. q 72nd
Soldiers’ and Sailors’ monument in St. Closed to the public. condominium, but you can still
Riverside Park see what the poly chrome designs
This Beaux Arts gem was built were like. There are lotus leaves,
Riverside Park was designed by in 1899 for William Earl Dodge hiero glyphics, ornately carved
Frederick Law Olmsted in 1880. Stokes, heir to the Phelps columns, mythical beasts, and,
He also laid out Central Park Dodge Company fortune, who in majestic splendor on the roof,
(see pp198–203). brought French architect Paul two seated pharaohs.
E. M. Duboy to design a
building to rival the Dakota.
t Children’s The hotel was converted to
Museum of a condominium in 1992. The
Manhattan most prominent features
are the round corner tower
212 W 83rd St. Map 15 C4. Tel (212) and the two-story Mansard roof
721-1223. q 79th St, 81st St, 86th St. adorned with single and double
Open 10am–5pm daily (to 7pm Sat). dormers. The building had a
Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. roof garden (complete with
& 7 = ∑ cmom.org Dodge’s menagerie: ducks,
chickens, and a tame bear) Balcony on the Dorilton, supported by
This particularly imaginative and two swimming pools. groaning figures
participatory museum was The hotel’s thick, sound-
founded in 1973 and is based muffling walls soon made it a
on the premise that children favorite with the musical stars i American Folk
learn best through play. The of yesteryear. Florenz Ziegfeld, Art Museum
exhibit called “Eat, Sleep, Play” Arturo Toscanini, Enrico Caruso,
links food, the digestive system, Igor Stravinsky, and Lily Pons 2 Lincoln Sq. Map 11 D2.
and healthy living, while in “Block were once regular guests there. Tel (212) 595-9533. q 5th Ave-
Party” children can build castles, 53rd St. Open 11:30am–7pm
towns, and bridges out of Tue–Thu & Sat, noon–7:30pm Fri,
noon–6pm Sun. & 7 8 - =
wooden blocks. Kids also delight u The Dorilton ∑ folkartmuseum.org
in the exhibits on cartoon 171 W 71st St. Map 11 C1. q 72nd St.
favorites Curious George, and Closed to the public. The permanent home for
Dora the Explorer and her the appreciation and study of
Opulent detail and American folk art is conveniently
an impressive high located opposite the Lincoln
mansard roof adorn Center complex. Founded in
this apart ment 1961, the museum comprises
house. On the W 7,000 artworks dating from the
71st Street side of 18th century to the present day.
the building is a With colorful quilts, impressive
nine-story-high portraits, and major works by self-
gate way. To the taught, contem porary artists, the
modern eye, the selection is remark able. Especially
Dorilton is glor- worth seeking out are Henry
iously elaborate, Darger’s water- colors, and
but when it was Ralph Fasinella’s incredible urban
first built in 1902 commentaries. Exhibi tions usually
it provoked this revolve, but the permanent
Kids playing with exhibits at the Children’s Museum of Manhattan reaction, reported collection is always on display.




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NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA  215

MORNINGSIDE HEIGHTS
AND HARLEM

Harlem has been at the heart of African- prettiest blocks in the city. Morningside
American culture since the 1920s, when Heights, near the Hudson River, is home to
poets, activists, and jazz musicians came Columbia University and two of the city’s
together during the Harlem Renaissance. finest churches. Hamilton Heights is further
Today, the neighborhood is home to fabulous uptown – primarily a residential area, it also
West African eateries, Sunday gospel choirs, contains a Federal-style historic mansion and
a vibrant local jazz scene, and some of the the City College of New York.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings Museums and Galleries Churches
1 Columbia University w Schomburg Center for Research 4 Cathedral of St. John the Divine
2 St. Paul’s Chapel into Black Culture pp220–21
3 Low Library y Studio Museum in Harlem 5 Riverside Church
6 Grant’s Tomb u Mount Morris Historic District q Abyssinian Baptist Church
7 City College of the City University o Museo del Barrio Parks and Squares
of New York Famous Theaters
8 Hamilton Grange National i Marcus Garvey Park
Memorial e Harlem YMCA Landmark Restaurants
9 Hamilton Heights Historic District t Apollo Theater r Sylvia’s
0 St. Nicholas Historic District 145th St
A.B.C.D
W 145TH STREET
W 144TH ST
A M S T E R D A M A V E N U E PARK 135th St WEST 140TH STREET
0 meters 500 HAMILTON PLACE
137th St-
0 yards 500 City College C O N V E N T A V E N U E
1 ST NICHOLAS ST NICHOLAS AVE EDGECOMBE AVE WEST 142ND STREET
WEST 135TH ST
WEST 133RD ST
B.C
River 9A RIVERSIDE DRIVE WEST 125th St 1 WEST 129TH ST ST NICHOLAS TERRACE W 135TH ST
WEST 138TH STREET
ST NICHOLAS AVE
WEST 137TH STREET
PARKWAY A V E N U E B R O A D W A Y (MARTIN LUTHER KING, JR BLVD) FREDERICK DOUGLASS BLVD (EIGHTH AVE) (SEVENTH AVENUE) 135th St
MALCOLM X BOULEVARD (LENOX AVE)
2.3
WEST 126TH ST
RIVERSIDE PARK
Hudson HENRYHUDSON RIVERSIDE DR C L A R E M O N T W 123RD ST 125th St W 128TH STREET F I F T H A V E N U E
WEST 125TH ST
WEST 132ND STREET
A.B.C.D
ADAM CLAYTON POWELL, JR BOULEVARD
W 130TH STREET
P A R K A V E N U E
SQUARE
116th St- W 120TH ST ROOSEVELT W E S T 1 2 5 T H M A D I S O N A V E N U E
MORNINGSIDE AVENUE
Columbia University MORNINGSIDE AVENUE 125th St
1 A M S T E R D A M AV E N U E MORNINGSIDE DRIVE 116th St W 122ND ST 2.3
W 126TH STREET
AFRICAN
WEST 114TH ST
SQUARE S T R E E T
Cathedral WEST 112TH ST B.C WEST 118TH ST
WEST 120TH ST
MANHATTAN WEST 115TH STREET
Parkway PARK WEST 116TH STREET
ST NICHOLAS
1
M A D I S O N A V E N U E
CATHEDRAL PARKWAY
2.3
110th St- WEST 112TH ST AVENUE 116th St
Cathedral Parkway F I F T H A V E N U E
B.C
Central Park North-
110th St P A R K A V E N U E
2.3
Restaurants see pp302–4
CENTRAL PARK NORTH
1 Amy Ruth’s
2 Dinosaur Bar-B-Que
3 Harlem Shake EAST
4 Red Rooster 106TH ST
5 Sisters Cuisine
6 Sylvia’s
See also Street Finder maps 19–21
Harlem’s most famous landmark, the Apollo Theater For keys to symbols see back flap
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216  NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA

Street by Street:
Columbia University

This university campus should not
be underestimated as a place of
interest. After admiring the archi­
tecture, linger awhile on Columbia’s
central quadrangle in front of the Alma Mater was
Low Library, where you will see the sculpted by Daniel
future leaders of America meeting Chester French in B R O A D W A Y
and mingling between classes. Across 1903 and survived
a bomb blast in
from the campus on both Broadway the 1968 student
and Amsterdam Avenue are the demonstrations.
coffee­houses and cafés where
students engage in lengthy philo­ 116th St/
sophical arguments, debate the Columbia
topics of the day, or simply unwind. University
subway (line 1)
The School of
Journalism is one
of Columbia’s many
McKim, Mead & White
buildings. Founded
in 1912 by publisher
Joseph Pulitzer, it
is the home of
the Pulitzer Prize,
awarded for the
best in letters
and music. 1 1 4 T H S T W 1 1 6 T H S T





Butler Library
3 Low Library is Columbia’s
With its imposing main library.
facade and high
dome, the library
dominates the A M S T E R D A M A V E N U E
main quadrangle.
McKim, Mead & W 1 1 3 T H S T
White designed it
in 1895–7.












1. Columbia University
Columbia’s first buildings were designed by McKim,
Mead & White and built around a central quadrangle.
This view looks across the quad toward Butler Library.




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MORNINGSIDE HEIGHT S AND HARLEM  217


2 St. Paul’s Chapel Bronx
Designed by the architects Howells
MORNINGSIDE
& Stokes in 1907, this church is Hudson River HEIGHTS & HARLEM
known for its fine woodwork and
magni ficent vaulted interior. It is full
of light and has fine acoustics.
West Side
CENTRAL East Side
UPPER PARK
WEST SIDE
Locator Map
See map pp16–17
The Sherman Key
Fairchild Center
was built in 1977 Suggested route
to house the
university’s
life sciences 0 meters
departments. 500
0 yards 500













W 1 1 6 T H S T
Student demonstrations put
Columbia University in the news in
1968. The demonstrations were
sparked by the university’s plan to
build a gymnasium in nearby
Morningside Park. The protests forced
the university to build elsewhere.
E
V Carved
I
R stonework
D decorates the

W 1 1 3 T H S T
E facade of
D the Cathedral.
I The Église de Notre Dame
S
G was built for a French-speaking
N congregation. Behind the altar
I
N is a replica of the grotto at
R Lourdes, France – the gift of a
O
M woman who believed her son
was healed there.
4.Cathedral of
St. John the Divine
If this Neo-Gothic cathedral is ever
finished, it will be the largest in the
world. Although one-third of the
structure has not yet been built, it
can hold 10,000 parishioners.

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Charles McKim, the architect,
placed the university on a
terrace, serenely above street
level. Its spacious lawns and
plazas still create a sense of
contrast in the busy city.
Columbia is noted for its
law, medicine, and journalism
schools. Its distinguished faculty
and alumni, past and present,
include over 50 Nobel laureates.
Famous alumni include Isaac
Asimov, J. D. Salinger, James Facade of St. Paul’s Chapel
Cagney, and Joan Rivers. Across
the street is the affiliated Barnard
College, a highly selective liberal 3 Low Library
arts college for women. Columbia University. Map 20 E3.
Alma Mater statue at the Low Library, q 116th St-Columbia University.
Columbia University
A Classical columned building
1 Columbia atop three flights of stone
University stairs, the library was donated
by Seth Low, a former mayor
Main entrance at W 116th St and and college president. The
Broadway. Map 20 E3. Tel (212) statue in front of it, Alma Mater
854-1754. q 116th St-Columbia by Daniel Chester French,
University. Visitors’ Center: Open became familiar as the
9am–5pm Mon–Fri. 8 1pm Mon,
Wed & Thu (no tours in May). backdrop to the many 1968
∑ columbia.edu Interior brick vaulting of St. Paul’s anti-Vietnam War student
Chapel dome demonstrations. The building
This is the third location of one is now used as offices, and
of America’s oldest universities. 2 St. Paul’s Chapel its rotunda for a variety of
Founded in 1754 as King’s Columbia University. Map 20 E3. academic and ceremonial
College, it was first situated Tel (212) 854-1487, for concert info. purposes. The books were
close to where the World Trade q 116th St-Columbia Univ. moved in 1934 to the Butler
Center stood. Open 10am–11pm Mon–Sat (term Library, across the quadrangle.
In 1814, when a move uptown time), 10am–4pm (breaks). 5 Sun. 7 The university’s library
was proposed, the university collections total more than
approached the authorities for Columbia’s most outstanding six million volumes.
funding but was instead given a building, built in 1904, is a mix
plot of land valued at $75,000 on of Italian Renaissance, Byzantine,
which to build a new home. The and Gothic. The interior 4 Cathedral of St.
university never built on the land Guastavino vaulting is of John the Divine
itself, but leased it out and spent intricate patterns of aged red
the years from 1857 to 1897 brick; the whole chapel is See pp220–21.
in buildings nearby. It finally bathed in light from above.
sold the plot in 1985 to the The free organ concerts offer
leaseholders, Rockefeller Center an exceptionally fine way to 5 Riverside Church
Inc., for $400 million. appreciate the beauty and 490 Riverside Dr at 122nd St. Map 20
The present campus was acoustics of this church. The D2. Tel (212) 870-6700. q 116th St-
begun in 1897 on the site of the Aeolian-Skinner pipe organ is Columbia Univ. Open 7am–10pm
Bloomingdale Insane Asylum. renowned for its fine tone. daily. 5 8:30am & 10:45am Sun. 7
8 12:15pm Sun; Carillon bell con certs;
(212) 870-6784; 10:30am, 12:30pm &
3pm Sun. Theater; (212) 870-6784. -
∑ theriversidechurchny.org
A 21-story steel frame with a
Gothic exterior, the church
design was inspired by the
cathedral at Chartres, France.
It was lavishly funded by
John D. Rockefeller, Jr., in 1930.
Columbia University’s main courtyard and the Low Library The Laura Spelman Rockefeller




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MORNINGSIDE HEIGHT S AND HARLEM  219


Memorial Carillon (in honor
of Rockefeller’s mother) is the
largest in the world, with
74 bells. The 20-ton Bourdon,
or hour bell, is the largest and
heaviest tuned carillon bell ever
cast. The organ, with its 22,000
pipes, is among the largest in
the world.
At the rear of the second
gallery is a figure by Jacob Mosaic mural in Grant’s Tomb showing Grant (right) and Robert E. Lee
Epstein, Christ in Majesty, cast
in plaster and covered in 6 Grant’s Tomb The tomb was dedicated on
gold leaf. Another Epstein W 122nd St and Riverside Dr. what would have been Grant’s
statue, Madonna and Child, Map 20 D2. Tel (212) 666-1640. 75th birthday, April 27, 1897.
stands in the court next to the q 116th St-Columbia Univ. The parade of 50,000 people,
cloister. The panels of the @ M5. Open 9am–5pm Wed–Sun. along with a flotilla of ten
chancel screen honor eight Closed in bad weather (call ahead), American and five European
men and women whose lives Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. 8 = warships, took more than
have exemplified the teachings ∑ nps.gov/gegr seven hours to pass in review.
of Christ. They range from The interior was inspired
Socrates and Michelangelo to This grandiose monument by Napoleon’s tomb at Les
Florence Nightingale and honors America’s 18th Invalides in Paris. Each
Booker T. Washington. president, Ulysses S. Grant, sarcophagus weighs 8.5 tons.
For quiet reflection, enter the commanding general Two exhibit rooms feature
the small, secluded Christ of the Union forces displays on Grant’s
Chapel, patterned after in the Civil War. personal life and his
an 11th-century The mausoleum presidential and
Romanesque church contains the military career.
in France. coffins of General Surrounding the
The church is Grant and north and east
particularly welcom- his wife, in sides of the
ing during the accordance building are 17
holiday season, with the sinuously curved
as the public is president’s last mosaic benches
invited to wish that they that seem totally
a host of be buried out of keeping
festive activi- together. After with the formal
ties such Grant’s death in architecture of the
as caroling 1885, more than tomb. They were
by candlelight. 90,000 Americans designed in the
contributed early 1970s by
$600,000 to build General Grant on a the Chilean-born
the sepulcher, Civil War campaign Brooklyn artist Pedro
which was inspired Silva and were built
by Mausoleus’s tomb at by 1,200 local volunteers, who
Halicarnassus, one of worked under his supervision.
the Seven Wonders The benches were inspired by
of the Ancient World. the work of Spanish architect
Antoni Gaudí in Barcelona. The
mosaics depict subjects ranging
from the Inuit to New York taxis
to Donald Duck.
A short walk north of Grant’s
Tomb is another monument. An
unadorned urn on a pedestal
marks the resting place of a
young child who fell from the
riverbank and drowned. His
grieving father placed a marker
that simply reads: “Erected to
the memory of an amiable child,
St. Claire Pollock, died 15 July
The 21-story Riverside Church, from the north 1797 in his fifth year of his age.”




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220  NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA

4 Cathedral of
St. John the Divine
Started in 1892 and still only two-thirds finished, this
will be the largest cathedral in the world. The interior is
over 600 ft (183 m) long and 146 ft (45 m) wide. It was
originally designed in Romanesque style by Heins &
LaFarge; Ralph Adams Cram took over the project in
1911, devising a Gothic nave and west front. Medieval
construction methods, such as stone-on-stone
supporting buttresses, continue to be used to complete . Peace Fountain
the cathedral, which also serves as a venue for theater, The sculpture is the creation
music, and avant-garde art. of Greg Wyatt and represents
nature in its many forms. It
stands within a granite basin
Nave on the Great Lawn, south
Rising to a of the cathedral.
height of over
100 ft (30 m),
the piers
of the nave
are topped
by graceful
stone arches.
























. West Front Entrance
The portals of the cathedral’s west front are adorned
with many fine stone carvings. Some are recreations of
medieval religious sculpture, but others have modern
themes. This apocalyptic vision of New York’s skyline,
by local stonemason Joe Kincannon, seems almost to
predict the events of September 11, 2001 (see p56).

KEY
. Rose Window
1 Pulpit Completed in 1933, the
2 The Bishop’s Chair is a copy stylized motif of the
from the Henry VII chapel in Great Rose is symbolic
Westminster Abbey, in London. of the many facets of
the Christian Church.




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MORNINGSIDE HEIGHT S AND HARLEM  221


Baptistery VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The Gothic
Baptistery has Practical Information
Italian, French, 1047 Amsterdam Ave at W
and Spanish 112th St. Map 20 E4.
influences. Tel (212) 316-7540.
Open 7:30am–6pm daily.
5 Vespers 8am, 9am, 11am
& 4pm Sun.
Donations 7 8 daily (times
vary), (212) 932-7347. -
Choir Concerts, exhibitions, gardens.
Each of the choir’s ∑ stjohndivine.org
columns is 55 ft (17 m) tall Transport
and made of polished q 1 to Cathedral Pkwy (110th St).
gray granite.
@ M4, M11, M60, M104.
St. Ambrose Chapel
Named after a 4th-century Italian
bishop, the chapel is decorated
with Renaissance-
style ironwork.












The Finished Design
The north and south Crossing
transepts, the crossing tower, tower
and the west towers have
yet to be finished. When
the money to fund their
construction is raised,
the proposed design will
still take at least another
50 years to complete.
. Bay Altars
The bay altar windows are
devoted to human endeavor.
The sports window shows feats West towers South transept
of skill and strength.

1823 1909 Pulpit designed by 2001 Major fire
Cathedral Henry Vaughan destroys interior 2008 Cathedral reopens
planned for 1891 Site chosen and roof of after seven-year closure
Washington and designated 1911 Cram design north transept for renovations
Square Cathedral Parkway replaces earlier ones
1800 1850 1900 1950 2000 2050
1873 Charter granted 1916 Ground 1941 Work is 1978–89 Third
broken for nave halted by phase of building.
1888 Competition to design World War II Stonemasons’ Yard
cathedral won by Heins & LaFarge 1892 December 27 and does opened, and south
(St. John’s Day), not resume tower heightened
cornerstone laid until 1978




220-221_EW_New_York_City.indd 221 4/3/17 11:41 AM

222  NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA

7 City College of Cab Calloway, and world
the City University champion boxer Sugar Ray
of New York Robinson have all lived there.
The handsome three- and
Main entrance at W 138th St and four-story stone row houses
Convent Ave. Map 19 A2. Tel (212) were built between 1886 and
650-7000. q 137th St-City College. 1906 mixing Flemish, Roman-
∑ ccny.cuny.edu esque, and Tudor influences.
In fine condition, many are
Set high on a hill adjoining used as residences by the
Hamilton Heights, the original faculty of City College.
Gothic quadrangle of this
college, built between 1903 and
1907, is very impressive. The
material used for the buildings
is Manhattan schist, a stone
that had been excavated in
building the IRT subway. Later,
contemporary buildings were
added to the school, which
enrolls nearly 15,000 students.
Once free to all residents
of New York, City College still
offers an education at low
tuition rates. Three-quarters Statue of Alexander Hamilton
of the students are from on Convent Avenue
minority groups, and a large
number of them are the first in the $10 bill and he is also the Row houses in Hamilton Heights
their families to attend college. subject of a highly successful
musical. Hamilton lived in The 0 St. Nicholas
Grange for the last two years of
his life. He was killed in a duel with Historic District
political rival Aaron Burr in 1804. 202–250 W 138th & W 139th St.
In 1889, St. Luke’s Episcopal Map 19 B2. q 135th St (B, C).
Church acquired the site, and the
building was moved four blocks A startling contrast to the
west. A second relocation in 2008 surrounding streets, the two
moved the building to its current blocks here, known as the
site in St. Nicholas Park. King Model Houses, were built
in 1891, when Harlem was
9 Hamilton Heights considered a neighbor hood
for New York’s gentry. They are
Historic District still among the city’s most
Shepard Archway at City College of the W 141st–W 145th St and Convent Ave. distinctive examples of row
City University of New York Map 19 A1. q 137th St-City College. town houses.
The developer, David King,
8 Hamilton Originally this was a setting for chose three leading architects,
Grange National the impressive country estates who succeeded in blending
Memorial of the wealthy. Also known their different styles to create
as Harlem Heights, it was
a harmonious whole. The most
St. Nicholas Park, 414 W 141st St. developed during the 1880s famous of these was the firm
Map 19 A1. Tel (212) 283-5154. following the extension of
q 137th St-City College. the El line (Elevated Railway)
Open 9am– 5pm Wed–Sun. into the neighborhood. The
Closed Thanksgiving & Dec 25. privacy of the enclave, on a
8 hourly. ∑ nps.gov/hagr high hill above Harlem, made
it a very desirable location.
Completed in 1802, this was The section of Hamilton
the country home of Alexander Heights known as Sugar Hill
Hamilton. He was one of was highly favored by Harlem’s
the architects of the federal elite – US Supreme Court
government system, First Secretary Justice Thurgood Marshall,
of the treasury and founder of notable jazz music ians Count
the National Bank. His face is on Basie, Duke Ellington, wand Houses in St. Nicholas district




222-223_EW_New_York_City.indd 222 4/3/17 11:12 AM

MORNINGSIDE HEIGHT S AND HARLEM  223


there was no such thing as “black
history.” The Carnegie Corporation
bought the collection in 1926
and gave it to the New York
Public Library; Schomburg
was made curator in 1932.
The library was the unofficial
meeting place for writers involved
in what later became known
as the Harlem Renaissance of
the 1920s, including Langston
Hughes, W. E. B. Du Bois, and
Zora Neale Hurston. It also
hosted many poetry readings
Adam Clayton Powell, Jr. at the Abyssinian Baptist Church and literary gatherings.
The Schomburg Library has
of McKim, Mead & White, most powerful black church excellent facilities for con serving
designers of The Morgan Library in America. A room in the church and making available the archive’s
(see pp160–61) and Villard Houses houses memorabilia from his life. treasures, which include rare
(see p172), who were responsible The church, a fine 1923 Gothic books, photographs, movies, art,
for the northernmost row of building, welcomes properly and recordings. The library was
solid brick Renaissance palaces. dressed visitors to Sunday planned and designed to double
Their homes featured ground- services and to hear its superb as a cultural center and includes
floor entrances rather than the gospel choir. a theater and two art galleries,
typical New York brownstone which feature changing shows of
stoops. Also, the elaborate parlor art and photography. The center is
floors have ornate wrought-iron w Schomburg also the resting place of Langston
balconies below, as well as Center for Research Hughes’ ashes. The main exhibi -
carved decorative medallions into Black Culture tion galleries will be closed for
above their windows. renovation until late 2017.
The Georgian buildings 515 Malcolm X Blvd. Map 19 C2.
designed by Price and Luce are q 135th St (2, 3). Tel (212) 491-
built of buff brick with white 2200. Open noon–8pm Tue & Wed,
stone trim. James Brown Lord’s 10am–6pm Mon, Thu, Fri & Sat. Closed
section of buildings, also public hols. 8 (212) 491-2207. 7 =
Georgian in architectural style, ∑ nypl.org/locations/schomburg
feels much closer to Victorian,
with outstanding red-brick Housed in a sleek contemporary
facades and bases constructed complex opened in 1991, this
of brownstone. is the largest research center
Successful blacks were of black and African culture in
attracted here in the 1920s and the United States. The immense
1930s, giving it the nickname collection was assembled by the
Strivers’ Row. Among them were late Arthur Schomburg, a black
celebrated musicians W. C. man of Puerto Rican descent, Sociologist W. E. B. Du Bois
Handy and Eubie Blake. who was told by a teacher that
e Harlem YMCA
q Abyssinian 180 W 135th St. Map 19 C3.
Baptist Church Tel (212) 281-4100. q 135th St (2, 3).
132 W 138th St. Map 19 C2. Tel (212) Paul Robeson and many others
862-7474. q 135th St (B, C, 2, 3). made their first stage appear-
5 11am Sun. Groups of 10 ances here in the early 1920s.
or more need reservations. The Krigwa Players, organized by
∑ abyssinian.org
W.E.B. Du Bois in the basement
in 1928, was founded to counter
Founded in 1808, New York’s the derogatory images of blacks
oldest black church became often presented in Broadway
famous through its charismatic reviews of the time. The “Y” also
pastor Adam Clayton Powell, provided temporary lodgings
Jr. (1908–72), a congressman for some notable new arrivals
and civil-rights leader. Under People in the library at the Schomburg in Harlem, including writer
his leadership it became the Center for Research into Black Culture Ralph Ellison.




222-223_EW_New_York_City.indd 223 4/3/17 11:12 AM

224  NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA


of musicians, such as Charlie
“Bird” Parker, Dizzy Gillespie,
Thelonious Monk, and
Aretha Franklin, continued
the tradition.
Rescued from decline and
refurbished in the 1980s, the
Apollo once again features
top black entertainers and
hosts Amateur Nights.

y Studio Museum
in Harlem
144 W 125th St. Map 21 B2.
Tel (212) 864-4500. q 125th St
(2, 3). Open noon–9pm Thu & Fri,
10am–6pm Sat, noon–6pm Sun.
Closed public hols. & donations;
free Sun. ^ 7 8 Lectures,
Diners at Sylvia’s, one of the most popular restaurants in Harlem
films, children’s programs,
r Sylvia’s Frank Schiffman, a white video presentations. = -
∑ studiomuseum.org
entrepreneur, took over in
328 Malcolm X Blvd. Map 21 B1.
Tel (212) 996-0660. q 125th St 1934. He then opened the The museum was founded in
(2, 3). Open 8am–10:30pm theater to everyone and turned 1967 in a loft on upper Fifth
Mon–Thu, 8am–11pm Fri it into Harlem’s best-known Avenue with the mission of
& Sat, 11am–9pm Sun. showcase, with great artists becoming the world’s premier
∑ sylviasrestaurant.com such as Bessie Smith, Billie center for the collection and
Holiday, Duke Ellington, exhibition of the art and artifacts
Harlem’s best-known soul and Dinah Washington. of African Americans.
food restaurant since 1962 Wednesday Amateur The present premises, a five-
serves up Southern-fried or Nights (begun in 1935), story building on Harlem’s main
smothered chicken, spicy with winners determined commercial street, was donated
ribs, black-eyed peas, by audience applause, to the museum by the New York
collard greens, candied were famous, and there Bank for Savings in 1979. There
yams, sweet potato pie, was a long waiting list for are galleries on two levels for
and other comforting performers. These amateur changing exhibitions featuring
Southern delicacies. Sunday nights helped launch the artists and cultural themes, and
brunch here is served to careers of Sarah Vaughan, three galleries are devoted to
the accom paniment of Pearl Bailey, James Brown, the permanent collection of
Gospel singers. and Gladys Knight, among works by major black artists.
Harlem’s culinary scene others, and they still The photographic archives
has blossomed over the Apollo attract hopefuls. comprise one of the most
years, with eateries such Theater The Apollo was complete records in existence
as Marcus Samuelsson’s the place during the of Harlem in its heyday. A
Red Rooster (see p304) just swing band era; following side door opens onto a
a block down from Sylvia’s. World War II, a new generation small sculpture garden.
Founder Sylvia Woods, or
the “Queen of Soulfood” as
she was once known, passed
away in 2012.
t Apollo Theater
253 W 125th St. Map 21 A1.
Tel (212) 531-5300. q 125th St.
Open at showtimes. 8 Groups only.
7 = See Entertainment p347.
∑ apollotheater.org
The Apollo opened in 1913
as a whites-only opera house.
Its great fame came when Exhibition space at the Studio Museum in Harlem




224-225_EW_New_York_City.indd 224 4/3/17 11:12 AM

MORNINGSIDE HEIGHT S AND HARLEM  225


In addition to its excellent o Museo del Barrio
exhibitions, the Studio Museum 1230 5th Ave. Map 21 C5. Tel (212)
also maintains a national artist- 831-7272. q 103rd St, 110th St.
in-residence program, and Open 11am–6pm Wed–Sat,
offers regular lectures, seminars, noon–5pm Sun. Closed Jan 1, Jul 4,
children’s programs, and film Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 8 ^ 7
festivals. An excellent shop sells = ∑ elmuseo.org
a range of books, unique prints,
and various African crafts. Founded in 1969, this was
North America’s first museum
devoted to Latin American art,
u Mount Morris specializing in the culture of
Historical District Puerto Rico. Exhibitions feature
contemporary painting and
W 119th–W 124th Sts. Map 21 B2. sculpture, folk art, and historical
q 125th St (2, 3). artifacts. The stars of the
The flamboyant black nationalist leader collection are about 240 wooden
Despite many of the buildings Marcus Garvey Santos (carved figures of saints)
here being in need of renovation, and a reconstructed bodega,
it is still clear that the late 19th- i Marcus or Latino corner grocery. The
century Victorian-style town exhibits usually change, but
houses near Marcus Garvey Park Garvey Park some of the Santos are often
were once grand. This was a 120th–124th Sts. Map 21 B2. q 125th on display. The Pre-Columbian
favorite neighborhood of German St (2, 3). ∑ nycgovparks.org collection contains rare artifacts
Jews moving up in the world from the Caribbean. Situated at
from the Lower East Side. After a This hilly, rocky, two-block square the far end of Museum Mile (see
long period of neglect, the area of green is the site of New York’s pp180–81), this venue attempts
is undergoing redevelopment. last fire watch tower, an open to bridge the gap between
A few impressive churches, cast-iron structure built in 1857, the lofty Upper East Side and
such as St. Martin’s Episcopal with spiral stairs leading to the Spanish Harlem. A store sells
Church, remain. There are some 47-ft- (14-m-) high observation eye-catching objects by artists
interesting juxta positions of deck. The bell below the deck from all over Latin America.
faiths to be seen: the columned sounded the alarm. The tower
Mount Olivet Baptist Church, at was temporarily dismantled in
201 Malcolm X Boule vard, was 2015 for reconstruction, and
once Temple Israel, one of the should be restored by 2017.
most imposing synagogues in Previously known as Mount
the city; and at the Ethiopian Morris Park, it was renamed
Hebrew Congreg ation, 1 West in 1973 in honor of Marcus
123rd Street, housed in a former Garvey. He came to Harlem
mansion, the choir sings in from Jamaica in 1916 and
Hebrew on Saturdays. founded the Universal
Negro Improvement
Association, which
promoted self-help,
racial pride, and a
back-to-Africa
movement.














St. Martin’s Episcopal Church on
Malcom X Boulevard Folk art at the Museo del Barrio: one of the Three Wise Men (left) and the “Omnipotent Hand”




224-225_EW_New_York_City.indd 225 4/3/17 11:12 AM

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NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA  227

BROOKLYN

Brooklyn became a New York borough in the city, popular for their bars, flea markets,
1898, and for decades after served primarily and hipster culture. Brooklyn offers a
as a residential and industrial neighborhood. multitude of experiences. Its brownstone
It has drastically changed since the start of town houses and tree-lined streets give way
the 21st century. Districts such as Fort to museums, inventive restaurants, and
Greene, Williamsburg, Bushwick, and Cobble performance spaces such as BAM and the
Hill are now among the most fashionable in Barclays Center.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Sights and Buildings Parks and Squares 8 Pok Pok NY
9 Prime Meats
1 Brooklyn Bridge pp232–5 9 Grand Army Plaza 10 Red Hook Lobster Pound
2 Fulton Ferry District q Prospect Park 11 Rye Restaurant
3 Dumbo e Brooklyn Botanic Garden
5 Red Hook
6 Fort Greene & BAM Restaurants p305
7 Williamsburg & Greenpoint 1 al di la trattoria
0 Park Slope Historic District 2 Fette Sau
r Green-Wood Cemetery
3 Frankie’s 457 Spuntino N 12TH ST
Museums and Galleries 4 Grimaldi’s KENT AVE MCCARREN
PARK
4 New York Transit Museum 5 Marlow & Sons R i v e r BERRY ST Bedford
8 Brooklyn Children’s Museum 6 Peter Luger Steak House Ave
w Brooklyn Museum pp238–41 7 Pies ‘n’ Thighs Williamsburg GRAND ST
Bridge SOUTH 2ND ST
METROPOLITAN AVE
E a s t Marcy Ave
Manhattan DIVISION AVE
Bridge
Wallabout KENT AVENUE
Bay
York St
YORK
BROOKLYN
NAVY YARD
High St
ST
FLUSHING AVENUE
BROOKLYN QUEENS EXPRESS WAY
BROOKLYN QUEEN S EXPRESSWAY ATLANTIC AVENUE DEKALB AVE VANDERBILT AVE WILLOUGHBY AVE B E D F O R D A V E N U E
AVENUE
Borough
Hall
FORT
GREENE
N AVY ST
FLATBUSH AVE
PARK
Classon
FULTON ST
Ave
GREENE AVE
Bergen
COLUMBIA ST H E N RY S T R E E T COURT STREET St W Y C K O F F S T Atlantic Ave- GATES AVENUE Franklin
MYRTLE CARLTON AVE
Atlantic
Terminal
SMITH ST
Barclays Ctr
WASHINGTON AVE
VA N B R U N T S T R E E T 3 •9 Smith Carroll U N I O N BROOKLYN D E A N Ave AV E N U E Nostrand KINGSTON AVE
FULTON STREET
Bergen St
St
ATLANTIC AVENUE
Ave
Union St
DWIGHT ST
S T R E E T
Grand Army
ST. MARKS
Plaza
Eastern Parkway
6TH AVENUE
STREET
PARK PLACE
BAY STREET
9TH ST
RED HOOK GOWANUS EXPRESSWAY St-9th St 3RD AVE 4TH AVE 5TH AVE 1ST ST 8TH AVE Brooklyn Museum BEDFORD AVE ST. JOHNS PLACE
EASTERN
PARK 5TH ST Botanic PARKWAY
Prospect PROSPECT PARK WEST FLATBUSH WASHINGTON AVE Gardens
Ave 11TH STREET
Prospect
15TH STREET
Park
15th St-
Prospect PROSPECT
Park PARK AV ENUE
PROSPECT EXPRESSWAY
Prospect
Park
PA RK SIDE AVE
Lake
PROSPE CT PARK SOUTH
See also Street Finder 0 kilometers 1
map 23 0 miles 1
20TH STREET MCDONALD AVE
The spectacular Brooklyn Bridge For keys to symbols see back flap
226-227_EW_New_York_City.indd 227 4/3/17 11:41 AM

228  NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA

Street by Street:
Brooklyn Heights

Facing Lower Manhattan, across the East River, Brooklyn Heights
is one of New York’s most elegant and historic neighborhoods.
The city’s wealthy elites built brownstone town houses here in
the 1820s, when the Heights became the city’s first commuter
suburb. The completion of the Brooklyn Bridge in 1883, and the
opening of the subway in 1908, led to intensified development. Locator Map
See map pp16–17
Today, Brooklyn Heights is an extremely affluent neighborhood.
Brooklyn Bridge Park/
Dumbo Ferry Terminal




Bargemusic, EVE RIT ST
moored just under the
Brooklyn Bridge, is a renovated
coffee barge dating from O L D F U L T O N S T
the late 19th century, and
holds nightly chamber D O U G H T Y S T
music performances. S
T
T H
S G V I N E S T
I
N E
A H
M A
R I
U B
F M
U
L O
Brooklyn Ice Cream C
Factory is based in
an early 20th-century
fireboat house on the
Fulton Ferry Pier, and B R O O K L Y N Q U E E N S E X P Y
serves just eight
flavors of ice cream. T
W S
O
L C R A N B E R Y S T
S L
T I
H W
G
I
70 Willow Street is said E
to be where Truman H O R A N G E S T
Capote wrote Breakfast I A
at Tiffany’s. B
M
U
L
O
C
. Brooklyn Heights Promenade C L A R K S T
This pedestrian path offers
sensational views of the Statue of
Liberty, Lower Manhattan’s
skyscrapers, and the Brooklyn Bridge.



228-229_EW_New_York_City.indd 228 4/3/17 11:41 AM

BROOKL Y N  229


. Juliana’s Pizza
is the original location
of Patsy Grimaldi’s famous
coal-oven pizzas, not to be
confused with the newer
Grimaldi’s next door.





0 meters 500
0 yards 500




EVE RIT ST O L D F U L T O N S T




B R O O K L Y N B R I D G E
S D O U G H T Y S T
T
H
G V I N E S T V I N E S T
I
E
H

A
I
B
M 24 Middagh St is the area’s
U oldest house, erected in
L C O P O P L A R S T 1824. Other examples of Just below the Brooklyn Bridge, this historic
B R O O K L Y N Q U E E N S E X P Y M I D D A G H S T Key Suggested route wharf area is named after Robert Fulton, the
2 . Fulton Ferry District
old buildings can be found
along Middagh and Willow.
steamboat king. It features iconic land-
marks such as the Eagle Warehouse
with its large, glass clock-window.
W S T Plymouth Church was the base of pastor Henry Ward
Beecher, abolitionist and campaigner for women’s
O
L C R A N B E R Y S T rights. It was also a stop on the Underground Railroad,
L where slaves were hidden on their way to freedom.
I
W O R A N G E S T






C L A R K S T

Clark St subway . Brooklyn Historical Society
(Lines A,C) This museum and educational center hosts changing
Brooklyn Historical Society exhibits on the diverse history of the district.




228-229_EW_New_York_City.indd 229 4/3/17 11:41 AM

230  NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA


luxury condominiums, and bars.
The redeveloped waterfront of
gardens and playgrounds offers
an unmissable view of Manhattan
from the Brooklyn Bridge Park.
St. Ann’s Warehouse, a revered
arts institution, occupies an old
Tobacco Warehouse on the
park’s edge.

4 New York
Transit Museum
Boerum Pl and Schermerhorn St,
Brooklyn Heights. Map 23 A3. Tel
Eagle Warehouse, an industrial structure that now contains apartments
(718) 694-1600. q Borough Hall, Jay
1 Brooklyn Bridge concerts at Bargemusic. The St-MetroTech. Open 10am–4pm Tue–
Fri, 11am–5pm Sat & Sun. & 7 8
original Grimaldi’s pizza recipe
See pp232–5. = ∑ nytransitmuseum.org
can be enjoyed at Juliana’s
Pizza, while Brooklyn Ice Cream Charting the evolution of
2 Fulton Ferry Factory (see pp228–9) offers the city’s public transit system,
District freshly-made ice creams in just this museum is housed under-
eight perfect flavours.
ground in the refurbished Court
Map 23 A3. q High Street Subway. Street shuttle station, which
was originally built in 1936.
This small historic district at the 3 Dumbo
foot of the Brooklyn Bridge was Map 23 A3. q York St, High St.
once the busiest section of
the East River, thanks to Robert Short for “Down Under the
Fulton’s steamboat ferries. Manhattan Bridge Overpass,”
Among the landmarked Dumbo is a ritzy area of
19th-century buildings is converted brick factories, located
the Eagle Warehouse, built in between the Manhattan and
Romanesque Revival style for Brooklyn bridges. Primarily
the Brooklyn Eagle newspaper industrial in the 19th century,
in 1893. Today, it is occupied the district’s spacious lofts were
by expensive apartments. colonized by artists in the 1970s.
The old pier area still hosts Since the 1990s, the neigh bor-
New York Water Taxis from hood has been transformed by Model of “City Car” Number 100 at the
Manhattan, as well as popular art galleries, hip restaurants, New York Transit Museum




















Brooklyn Bridge, as seen in the Dumbo neighborhood




230-231_EW_New_York_City.indd 230 4/3/17 11:41 AM

BROOKL Y N  231


The station closed in 1946,
but the museum opened here
30 years later.
The museum exhibits include
photographs, models, and
maps, as well as aged turnstiles
and a few interactive displays of
fuel technologies. Visitors can
jump on and off the various
models of the restored subway
and tram carts on the old
station platforms.
5 Red Hook
Map 23 A5. q Smith St-9th St.
Prison Ship Martyrs’ Monument at Fort Greene
First settled in by the Dutch in
1636, Red Hook (“Roode Hoek” Monument (1908), a 149-ft Flea operates at the same
in Dutch) got its name from the (45-m) column that commem- location on Sundays.
color of the soil and the shape orates the estimated 11,500 To the north, Greenpoint is
of the land, which forms a hoek Americans who died in a traditional Polish stronghold,
(corner), where the New York the floating prison camps, flooded by an artsy crowd
Bay meets the Gowanus Bay. maintained by the British during from Williamsburg. The Russian
It later became one of the the Revolutionary War. Orthodox Cathedral of the
busiest and toughest docklands The Brooklyn Academy of Transfiguration sits at North
in the US, inspiring the 1954 film Music (BAM) is the borough’s 12th Street on Driggs Avenue.
On the Waterfront, and Arthur leading cultural venue, founded A Byzantine Revival landmark
Miller’s play A View from the in 1858. It offers outstanding from 1922, the church has five
Bridge (1955). performances, often leaning patinated copper onion domes
Today, Red Hook’s waterfront towards the avant-garde. BAM’s that loom above the trees of
is a surprising blend of red-brick main building is the 1908 McCarren Park. The park itself
warehouses, cycle paths, Howard Gilman Opera House, dates back to 1903 and forms
cobblestoned blocks, and a Beaux Arts gem, designed by an unofficial boundary between
stores. Its laid-back vibe makes Herts & Tallant. The nearby 1904 Greenpoint and Williamsburg. In
it unlike any other part of the Harvey Theater stages most of addition to playgrounds, tennis
city. A handful of independent BAM’s plays. courts, and dog runs available
stores, restaurants, and cafés to the public, there is a historic
dot Van Brunt Street, the area’s swimming pool (1936) and the
busiest strip. The Red Hook 7 Williamsburg renowned McCarren Hotel.
Ball Fields host local soccer & Greenpoint
tournaments, and Latino food
stalls on summer weekends. Map 23 B2 & 23 A1. q Bedford Ave.

One of the city’s trendiest
6 Fort Greene neigh borhoods, Williamsburg
& BAM occupies much of northeast
Brooklyn. Established in 1827,
Map 23 B3. Brooklyn Academy of the area was a mix of industrial
Music: 30 Lafayette Ave. Tel (718) 636- lots, cheap clapboard homes,
4100. q Atlantic Ave, Fulton St, and tenements until recent
Pacific St. ∑ bam.org
regeneration. The main strip at
Bedford Avenue is now crowded
Home to Saturday’s Brooklyn with boutiques, record stores,
Flea, Fort Greene is historically bars, coffee shops, and
an African-American neighbor- restaurants. Big on nightlife,
hood, full of beautiful Italianate this area is especially popular
and Eastlake town houses as an indie rock venue.
built in the mid-19th century. Williamsburg’s culinary
At its heart lies Fort Greene Park, attractions include the Brooklyn
designed by Frederick Law Brewery, which opened in 1996,
Olmsted and Calvert Vaux and Smorgasburg, a food
in 1867. The park is crowned market that runs from mid-May Enjoying views from the waterfront
by the Prison Ship Martyrs’ to mid-November. The Brooklyn at Williamsburg




230-231_EW_New_York_City.indd 231 4/3/17 11:41 AM

232  NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA

1 Brooklyn Bridge

Completed in 1883, the Brooklyn Bridge was the largest
suspension bridge in the world and the first to be made of steel.
Engineer John A. Roebling conceived of a bridge spanning over
the East River while ice-bound on a ferry to Brooklyn. The bridge
took 16 years to build, required 600 workers, and claimed over
20 lives, including Roebling’s. Most died of caisson disease (known
as “the bends”) after coming up from the underwater excavation Souvenir medal cast for
chambers. When finished, the bridge linked Manhattan and the opening of the bridge
Brooklyn, then two
separate cities.
Brooklyn Bridge
From making the wire to
sinking the supports, the
bridge was built using
new techniques.













Anchorage Caissons
The ends of the bridge’s The towers rose up above
four steel cables are caissons, each the size of
fastened to a series of four tennis courts, which
anchor bars held in place provided a dry area for
by anchor plates. These underwater excavation. As
are held down by giant work went on, they sank
granite vaults up to three deeper beneath the river.
stories high. Their vast
interiors, once used for
storage, are now used for Shaft
summer art displays.

Anchor Plates
Each of the four cast-iron
Granite vault anchor plates holds one
cable. The masonry was built up around
Cable to tower them after they were placed in position.
Anchor bar
Anchor plates







Anchor plate Central span is 1,595 ft (486 m) long
Vault Vault

Roadway from anchorage to anchorage is 3,579 ft (1,091 m)




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BROOKL Y N BRIDGE  233


First Crossing VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Master mechanic E. F. Farrington in
1876 was the first to cross the river Practical Information
on the bridge-in-progress, using a Map 2 D2. 7
steam-driven traveler rope. His
journey took 22 minutes. Transport
q J, Z to Chambers St; 4, 5, 6
to Brooklyn Bridge-City Hall
Steel Cable Wire (Manhattan side); A, C to High St
Each cable contains 3,515 miles (Brooklyn side). @ M9, M15,
(5,657 km) of wire, galvanized M22, M103.
with zinc for protection from the
wind, rain, and snow.




















Brooklyn
Tower (1875)
Two Gothic double
arches, each 271 ft
(83 m) high, one in
Brooklyn, the other
in Manhattan, were
meant to be the
portals of the cities.








John A. Roebling
The German-born Roebling
designed the bridge. In 1869,
just before construction started,
his foot was crushed between
an incoming ferry and the ferry
slip. He died three weeks later.
His son, Washington Roebling,
finished the bridge, but in 1872
he was taken from a caisson
suffering from the bends and
became partly paralyzed. His
Inside the Caisson wife, under his tutelage, then
Immigrant workers broke up rocks took over.
in the riverbed.




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Making the Cables Cable Wrapping
Wire was wound off the
drum and around the
Thickness of steel wire (actual size) End of cable to form a tight
wire final wrapping.
How the Cables Were Made
Each of the four main cables has 19 strands,
each made of 278 steel wires. The wires
were not twisted, but laid parallel.




Iron clamp

The 19 strands of a
main cable A massive iron clamp
compressed all the strands
into an even cylinder once
they had been positioned.
The strands were laid in order: after
the bottom 12 strands were laid, the
center strands were bound together. Bolt











Bustling Bridge
This 1883 view from
the Manhattan side
shows the original two
outer lanes for horse-
drawn carriages, two
middle lanes for cable
The 1983 Centennial Fireworks over the Brooklyn Bridge cars, and the elevated
Celebrating the bridge’s 100th year, this display was spectacular. center walkway.















Panic on Memorial Day, 1883
After a woman tripped on the bridge, panic
broke out. Of the estimated 20,000 people
on the bridge, 12 were crushed to death.




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BROOKL Y N BRIDGE  235

Holding the Cables
Saddle plates anchor the
cables at the top of each
of the two towers.


Cable




Diagonal stays
Suspender
Nearing Completion (1883) wires
Vertical suspender wires lashed
to diagonal stays hold the floor
beams in place.


























Floor Beams
The steel floor beams weigh 4 tons each.



Odlum’s Jump
Robert Odlum was
the first to jump off the
bridge, on a bet, in May
1885. He later died from
internal bleeding.



Elevated Walkway
Poet Walt Whitman said that the view
from the walkway – 18 ft (5.5 m) above
the road – was “the best, most effective
medicine my soul has yet partaken.”




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0 Park Slope
Historic District
Map 23 B4. Streets from Prospect Park
W below Flatbush Ave, to 8th/7th/5th
Aves. q Grand Army Plaza (2, 3), 7th
Ave (F).
This wonderful enclave of
beautiful Victorian town houses
was developed on the edge
of Prospect Park in the 1880s.
It served the upper-middle-class
professionals who were able
to commute into Manhattan
Totally Tots exhibition at the Brooklyn Children’s Museum after the Brooklyn Bridge was
opened in 1883. The shady
8 Brooklyn 9 Grand streets are lined with two-
Children’s Museum Army Plaza to five-story houses in every
architectural style popular in
145 Brooklyn Ave. Map 23 C4. Tel (718) Plaza St at Flatbush Ave. Map 23 C4. the late 19th century, some
735-4400. q Kingston Ave (3), q Grand Army Plaza (2, 3). Arch: with the towers, turrets, and
Kingston-Throop Ave (C). Open for occasional exhibitions. curlicues so representative of
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (till 6pm the era. Particularly fine examples
Thu). Closed public hols. & 7 - Frederick Law Olmsted and are in the Romanesque Revival
= ∑ brooklynkids.org
Calvert Vaux laid out this grand style, with rounded entry arches.
oval in 1870 as a gate way to The Montauk Club at 25 Eighth
Founded in 1899, the Brooklyn Prospect Park. The Soldiers’ and Avenue combines the style
Children’s Museum was the first Sailors’ Arch and its sculptures of Venice’s Ca’ d’Oro palazzo
to be designed especially for were added in 1892 as a tribute with the friezes and gargoyles
children. Since then, it has to the Union Army. Designed of the Montauks, for whom this
been a model, inspiration, and by John H. Duncan, the arch popular 19th-century private
consultant for the development has a sense of Imperial social club was named.
of more than 250 museums for Roman monuments, with its
children across the country and intricate carving and detail.
all over the world. Housed in Stanford White modified the q Prospect Park
a hi-tech, specially designed arch between 1894–1901 to Map 23 C5. q Grand Army Plaza,
underground building dating accommodate the bronze Prospect Park (B, Q). 8 & information
from 1976, it is one of the most sculptures by Philip Martiny (718) 287-3400. - =
imaginative children’s museums and Frederick MacMonnies. ∑ prospectpark.org
anywhere. In 2008, a “green” The bust of John F. Kennedy
renovation was carried out by the here is the only official New Olmsted and Vaux considered
Uruguayan architect Rafael Viñoly – York monument to the 35th this park, which opened in
he added solar panels and other president of the United States. 1867, better than their earlier
energy-saving devices, and also
expanded the museum space.
Galleries contain hands-on
exhibitions that focus on the
environment, science, and local
neighborhood life – which high-
lights various ethnic districts
around Brooklyn. The “Totally
Tots” Area is dedi cated to children
under the age of five, with a
“Water Wonders” play quarter.
The live animals on display down-
stairs will especially thrill the
little ones. There are also play
stores and restaurants where
children can buy, sell, and even
make (fake) pizza. Special events
and classes, such as Zumba for
kids, touch tank workshops, and
art projects, take place daily. The Soldiers’ and Sailors’ Arch at Grand Army Plaza




236-237_EW_New_York_City.indd 236 4/3/17 11:41 AM

BROOKL Y N  237


e Brooklyn labeled in Braille, giving
Botanic blind visitors an opportunity
Garden to identify them as well.
The conservatory houses
900 Washington Ave. Map 23 C4 one of America’s largest bonsai
Tel (718) 623-7200. q Prospect collections and some rare rain
Pk (B, Q), Eastern Pkwy (2, 3). forest trees, whose extracts
Grounds Open Mar–Oct: allow scientists to produce
8am–6pm Tue–Fri (10am life-saving drugs.
Sat, Sun, & public hols);
Nov–Feb: 8am–4:30pm
(10am Sat, Sun, & public hols).
Closed Jan 1, Labor Day,
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & Mar–mid-
Nov: free Tue & 10am–noon Sat;
mid-Nov–late Feb: free for under-16s
Carousel horse in Prospect Park Mon–Fri. 7 8 0 = ∑ bbg.org
Central Park (see pp198– Though this 50-acre (20-ha) Lily pond at the beautiful Brooklyn
203). The Long Meadow, a garden is not vast, you will find Botanic Garden
sweep of broad lawns and that it holds many delights.
grand vistas, is the longest The area was designed by the
unbroken swath of green space Olmsted Brothers in 1910 and r Green-Wood
in New York. features an Elizabethan-style Cemetery
Olmsted’s belief was that “a “knot” herb garden and one
feeling of relief is experi enced of North America’s largest 500 25th St at Fifth Ave. Map 23 B5.
by entering them [the parks] collections of roses. Tel (718) 210-3080. q 25th St (R).
on escaping from the The central showpiece is a Open Mar–Apr & Sep–Oct: 7:45am–
cramped, confining and Japanese hill-and-pond 6pm daily; May–Aug: 7am–7pm daily;
controlling circumstances of garden, complete with a Nov–Feb: 8am–5pm daily. ∑ green-
the streets of the town.” That teahouse and Shinto shrine. wood.com
vision is still as true today as it In late April and early May the
was a century and a half ago. park prome nade is aglow This 478-acre (193-ha) cemetery
Among the many notable with delicate Japanese was founded in 1838 and today
features are Stanford White’s cherry blossoms, which have it is almost a city park, being
colonnaded Croquet Shelter, prompted an annual festi val both sprawling and beautiful.
and the pools and weeping featuring typical Japanese Several famous citizens are
willows of the Vale of culture, food, and music. interred here, including the
Cashmere. The Music Grove April is also the time for tourists street artist Jean-Michel
bandstand shows Japanese to appreciate Magnolia Plaza, Basquiat (1960–88), abolitionist
influences and hosts both jazz where some 80 trees display Henry Ward Beecher (1813–87),
and classical music concerts their beautiful, creamy composer Leonard Bernstein
throughout the summer. blossoms against a backdrop (1918–90), and glass artist
A favorite feature of the park of daffodils on Boulder Hill. Louis Comfort Tiffany (1848–
is the Camperdown Elm, an The Fragrance Garden is 1933). The whole Steinway
ancient and twisted tree that planted in raised beds, where family (see p257) of the piano
was planted in 1872. The the heavily scented, textured dynasty also lie at rest in a
Friends of Prospect Park and flavored plants are all 119-room mausoleum.
continue to raise money to
keep it and all the other park
trees healthy. This old elm has
inspired many poems and
paintings. Prospect Park has a
wide variety of landscapes, from
classical gardens dotted with
statues to rocky glens with
running brooks. A guided tour
with a ranger is the best way
to see the park.

w Brooklyn
Museum
See pp238–41. The facade of the Brooklyn Public Library on Grand Army Plaza




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238  NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA

w Brooklyn Museum

When it opened in 1897, the Brooklyn
Museum building, designed to be the
largest cultural edifice in the world,
was the greatest achievement of New
York architects McKim, Mead & White.
Though only one-sixth of the building North facade of the museum, designed by McKim, Mead & White
was completed, the museum is today one of the
most impressive cultural institutions in the United
States, with a permanent encyclopedic collection
of some one million objects, housed in a grand
structure covering 560,000 sq ft (50,025 sq m). . Female Figurine
This 5,000-year-old rare
statuette is a highlight of
the museum’s impressive
Key Egyptian collection.
Arts of the Americas
Arts of Africa
Arts of Asia and the Islamic World
Iris and B. Cantor
Williamsburg Murals
Auditorium
Egyptian and Classical art
Decorative arts
Painting and sculpture
Connecting Cultures Chinese Jar
Special exhibitions Cobalt blue fish and
Nonexhibition space water plants adorn
this 14th-century Yuan
dynasty blue-and-white
. Beaded Crown porcelain wine jar.
This 19th-century
crown from Nigeria is
the ultimate symbol
of Yoruba kingship.
Con Edison
Education Gallery
Great Hall

Third floor
Mezzanine
Gallery




Second floor

South entrance
First floor
Morris A.
and Meyer
Schapiro Wing

Main entrance




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BROOKL Y N MUSEUM  239


. An Out-of-Doors Study (1889) VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
John Singer Sargent’s portrait of French
artist Paul Helleu and his wife Alice was Practical Information
painted during the couple’s visit to the 200 Eastern Pkwy. Map 23 C4.
Sargent family at Fladbury. (718) 638-5000.Tel (718) 638-
5000. Open 11am–6pm Wed–
Sun (to 10pm Thu); 1st Sat of
each month (except Sep): 11am–
11pm (free). Closed Jan 1, Thksgv,
Fifth floor Dec 25. Dona tion expected. 7
9 8 - = Concerts, lec t ures.
∑ brooklynmuseum.org
Luce visible Transport
storage
q 2, 3 to East ern Parkway/
Brooklyn Museum. @ B41, B45,
B67, B69.








Luce Center for
American Art
. Winter Scene in
Brooklyn (1820)
Francis Guy’s depiction of
downtown Brooklyn is from the
American Identities Collection.

Fourth floor
The Dinner Party (1974–9)
Judy Chicago’s vast installation is
the centerpiece of the Elizabeth
A. Sackler Center for Feminist Art.







Moorish Smoking
Room (c. 1864–5)
This room is from
a house on West 54th
Street, bought by J. D.
Ibis Coffin (305–330 BC) Rockefeller in 1884.
The sacred bird of ancient
Egypt merited a splendid
coffin of gold leaf and silver.
Gallery Guide
The collection is on five floors, with the Connecting
Cultures exhibit on the first; Arts of Asia and the Islamic
World on the second; Egyptian, Classical, and European
Alexander the Great painting and sculpture on the third; the decor ative arts
The military leader was portrayed on the fourth; and American art on the fifth. There is
in alabaster in the 1st century BC. special exhibition space on the first and fourth floors.




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240  NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA

Exploring the Collection

The Brooklyn Museum houses one of the finest art
collections in the United States. Its strengths include
an outstanding collection of Native American art from
the Southwest; American period rooms; exquisite pieces
of ancient Egyptian and Islamic art; and important
American and European paintings.


Ancient American
Arts of Africa, the Pacific, artistic traditions
and the Americas
are represented by
The Brooklyn Museum set a Peruvian textiles,
precedent in the United States Central American
in 1923 by exhibiting African gold, and Mexican
objects as works of art rather sculpture. A beautifully
than artifacts. Since then, the preserved tunic from Seated Buddha torso in limestone,
African art collection has grown Peru, dating from AD 600, is so from India (late 3rd century AD)
steadily in both importance tightly woven that its vibrant
and size. symbolic designs appear to Decorative Arts
Exhibits include a rare have been painted onto the
intricately carved ivory gong cloth rather than woven in The decorative arts collection
from the Benin kingdom of the traditional manner. reflects changes in domestic
16th-century Nigeria, one of The Oceanic collection life and design from the
only five in existence. includes sculpture from the 17th century to the present.
The Brooklyn Museum also Solomon Islands, Papua New The Moorish Smoking Room,
has a notable collection of Guinea, and New Zealand. from John D. Rockefeller’s
Native American items, brownstone house, embodies
including totem poles, textiles, elegant New York living in the
and pottery. One article, a 19th- Asian Art 1860s. There is also a 1928–30
century deer skin shirt, once Changing exhibitions from Art Deco study from a Park
worn and owned by a chief of the museum’s permanent Avenue apartment, including
the Blackfoot tribe, depicts its collection of Chinese, Japanese, a walk-in bar that was hidden
owner’s brave and daring exploits Korean, Indian, Southeast Asian, behind paneling during the
in battle. and Islamic art are always on Prohibition era (see pp30–31).
display. Japanese and More than 350 items from the
Chinese paintings, Indian museum’s collection of silver,
miniatures, and furniture, ceramics, and textiles
Islamic calligraphy are featured in the Luce Center
complement the for American Art. Although
Asian sculpture, centered mostly on American
textiles, and art, the selection also includes
ceramics. The pieces of Native American and
collections of Spanish colonial art.
Japanese folk
art, Chinese
cloisonné
(enamel work),
and Oriental
carpets are of
particular note.
Good examples
of Buddhist art
range from a variety of
Chinese, Indian, and
Southeast Asian Buddhas
to a mandala-patterned
temple banner from
14th-century Tibet,
painted in rich,
Blackfoot tribe deerskin shirt, decorated with porcupine quills luminous Ocean-liner inspired Normandie chrome
and glass beads (19th century) watercolors. pitcher, by Peter Müller-Munk (1935)




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BROOKL Y N MUSEUM  241


The Luce galleries are appropriately, Brooklyn
arranged thematically and Bridge by Georgia O’Keeffe.
explore crucial moments The Sculpture Garden
and ideas in American holds architectural
visual culture over the ornamentation taken from
past 300 years. Among the demolished New York
collection are pieces by John buildings, including statues
Singer Sargent, Frank Lloyd rescued from the original
Wright, and Georgia O’Keeffe. Penn Station, and a replica
of the Statue of Liberty.
Egyptian, Classical,
and Ancient Near
Eastern Art
Recognized as among the
world’s finest, the Egyptian
collection holds many master­
pieces. It begins with an early
female figure dating from 3,500
BC, and encompasses sculptures,
statues, tomb paintings, and
reliefs as well as funerary para­
phernalia. Of the latter, the most
unusual is the coffin of an ibis,
probably recovered from the
vast animal cemetery of Tuna
el­Gebel in Middle Egypt.
The ibis was a sacred bird Rotherhithe, an etching by James McNeill
representing the god Thoth, and Whistler (1860)
this coffin is made of solid silver Pierre de Wiessant (1887) by Auguste
and wood overlaid with gold Rodin, from his Burghers of Calais group
leaf, with rock crystal for the Prints, Drawings,
and Photographs
bird’s eyes. These galleries have
been renovated into a state­of­ Painting and Sculpture The museum has an important
the­art, hi­tech installation. This collection contains works collection of prints, drawings,
Among the artifacts from the from the 14th century to the and photographs that are
Greek and Roman civilizations present, including a well­ constantly rotated for conser­
are statuary, pottery, bronzes, known and outstanding vation purposes, and so this isn’t
jewelry, and mosaics. 19th­century French art on the floorplan (see pp238–9).
Among the Ancient Near and collection with works by The range includes a rare wood­
Middle Eastern exhibits are an Degas, Rodin, Monet, Cézanne, cut print by Dürer entitled The
extensive collection of pottery Matisse, and Pissarro. It also Great Triumphal Chariot and works
and 12 alabaster reliefs from the boasts one of the largest by Piranesi. The Impressionist
Assyrian palace of King holdings of Spanish Colonial and Post­Impressionist collection
Ashurnasirpal II. These date from paintings and one of the best includes works by Toulouse­
around 883–859 BC and depict collections of North American Lautrec and Mary Cassatt, the
the king fighting, overseeing paintings to be found in the only American woman associated
his crops, and purifying the United States. The museum’s with the Impressionist move­
“sacred tree,” a major icon in 20th­century American ment. There are lithographs by
Assyrian religion. collection includes, James McNeill Whistler, Winslow
Homer engravings, and a
superb selec tion of drawings
by Fragonard, Paul Klee, van
Gogh, Picasso, and Arshile
Gorky, among others.
The photography collection
consists mainly of works by
major 20th­century American
photographers, including a 1924
portrait of silent­film actress Mary
Pickford by Edward Steichen
and work by Margaret Bourke­
Sandstone reliefs from Thebes in Egypt (c.760–656 BC), depicting the great god Amun-Re White, Berenice Abbott, and
and his consort Mut Robert Mapplethorpe.




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NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA  243

FARTHER AFIELD

Though officially part of New York City, are typically associated with New York.
Upper Manhattan and the outer boroughs However, these outlying areas boast many
(the Bronx, Queens and Staten Island) are attractions, including the city’s biggest
quite different in feel. They are mostly zoo, botanical gardens, museums, beaches,
residential and don’t have the famous and sports arenas, and restaurants
skys crapers and world-famous sights that representing almost every ethnicity.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Buildings q The Bronx Musuem Cemeteries
2 Morris-Jumel Mansion of the Arts 6 Woodlawn Cemetery
3 George Washington Bridge e Queens Museum
5 Poe Cottage r Louis Armstrong House Museum Beaches
9 Belmont and u Museum of the Moving Image d Coney Island
Arthur Avenues and Kaufman Astoria Studio
0 Yankee Stadium i MoMA PS1, Queens
t Steinway & Sons p Jacques Marchais Museum of
y Noguchi Musuem & Socrates Tibetan Art
Sculpture Park a The Snug Harbor Cultural Center &
o Historic Richmond Town Botanical Garden
s Alice Austen House Parks and Gardens
7 New York Key Freeway

Museums and Galleries Botanical Garden pp244–5
1 Audubon Terrace 8 Bronx Zoo pp246–7 Major road
4 The Cloisters Museum pp238–41 w Flushing Meadows-Corona Park Other road
Main sightseeing areas

Englewood
Sights Outside the Center 95
87

95 L o n g I s l a n d S o u n d
Hudson River Bronx Washington
278
Port
Lyndhurst West
New York La Guardia
NEW JERSEY Flushing
Manhattan
Union Jackson
95
City Heights 495
278 Queens
Newark Jersey
City
NEW YORK
Newark 78
Newark 678 Rochdale
95 Bay Prospect East
New York Heights New York 27
Bay 27
278 Canarsie John F.
Kennedy
Bay Brooklyn
Ridge
278
Staten
Island Rockaway Beach
0 kilometers 10
Coney Island
0 miles 5
Orchids in bloom at the New York Botanical Garden For keys to symbols see back flap


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244  NE W Y ORK CIT Y AREA B Y AREA

Upper Manhattan Audubon Terrace contains two
themed museums that are worth
It was in Upper Manhattan that the 18th-century Dutch settlers seeking out. The American
established their farms. Now a suburban area with little of the Academy of Arts and Letters
bustle of downtown Manhattan, it is a good place to escape the was set up to honor American
inner city for some relaxed museum and landmark sightseeing. writers, artists, and composers,
and 75 honorary members from
The Cloisters (see pp246–9) displays a magnificent collection of overseas. On this illustrious roll
medieval art, housed within original European buildings of the are writers John Steinbeck and
period. A piece of New York history is found at the Morris-Jumel Mark Twain, painters Andrew
Mansion in north Harlem: from his headquarters here, George Wyeth and Edward Hopper,
Washington mounted the defense of Manhattan in 1776. and composer Aaron Copland.
Exhibitions feature members’
work. The library (for scholars,
by appointment) has old
manuscripts and first editions.
The Hispanic
Society of America
is a public museum
and library based
upon a personal
collection amassed
by Archer M.
Huntington. There
are extensive
The American Academy of Arts and Letters collections of
Spanish sculpture,
1 Audubon Terrace architect’s cousin, civic bene- decorative arts,
factor Archer Milton Huntington, prints, and
Broadway at 155th St. q 157th St.
American Academy of Arts and whose dream was that it should photographs, with
Letters: (212) 368-5900. Open mid-Mar– be a center of culture and study. changing exhibits
mid-Apr, mid-May–mid-Jun: 1–4pm A central plaza contains statues throughout the Bronze door,
Thu–Sun. ∑ artsandletters.org by his wife, sculptor Anna Hyatt year. The main American
^ Hispanic Society of America: (212) Huntington. gallery, in Spanish Academy
926-2234. Open 10am–4:30pm Tue– Renais sance style,
Sun. Closed public hols. Donations. 8 holds Goya’s famous Duchess
2pm Sat. = ∑ hispanicsociety.org of Alba. The adjacent Bancaja
Gallery contains Joaquín
This 1908 complex of Classical Sorolla y Bastida’s Vision of
Revival buildings by Charles Spain, commissioned in 1911.
Pratt Huntington is named It contains 14 large murals that
for the great naturalist John depict people and life in different
James Audubon, whose estate regions of Spain. Upstairs, there
once included this land. are galleries of painted tiles,
Audubon is buried in the ceramics, Roman mosaics,
nearby Trinity Cemetery. His and rare Spanish lusterware.
grave stone, a Celtic cross, However, the balcony above
bears the symbolic images of the main gallery offers some
his adventurous career: the of the best works: classic
birds he painted, his palette paintings by El Greco, such as
and brushes, and his rifles. Holy Family, and characteristic
The complex was portraits by Velázquez
funded by the and Goya.










Statue of El Cid by Anna Hyatt Huntington at Audubon Terrace




244-245_EW_New_York_City.indd 244 4/3/17 11:41 AM

F AR THER AFIELD  245

2 Morris-Jumel
Mansion
65 Jumel Terrace at W 160th St and
Edgecombe Ave. Tel (212) 923-8008.
q 163rd St. Open 10am–4pm Tue–
Fri (to 5pm Sat & Sun). Closed public
hols. & 8 noon Sat by appt. =
∑ morrisjumel.org
This is one of New York’s few
pre-Revolutionary buildings.
Now a museum with nine
restored period rooms, it was The 3,500-ft (1,065-m) span of the George Washington Bridge
built in 1765 for Roger Morris.
His former military colleague 3 George who suggested a road bridge
George Washington used it as Washington Bridge rather than the more expensive
temporary headquarters while rail link. Work began in 1927, and
defending Manhattan in 1776. q 175th St. ∑ panynj.gov the bridge was opened in 1931:
In 1810 it was bought and first across were two young
updated by Stephen Jumel, a French architect Le roller skaters from the Bronx.
merchant of French-Caribbean Corbusier called Today it is a vital
descent, and his wife Eliza. this “the only seat link for commuter
The pair furnished the house of grace in the traffic and is in
with souvenirs of their many disordered city.” constant use.
visits to France. Her boudoir While not as famous Gilbert had
has a “dolphin” chair, reputedly a landmark as its plans to clad the
bought from Napoleon. Eliza’s Brooklyn equivalent, two towers with
social climbing and love affairs this bridge by masonry but funds
scandalized New York society. engineer Othmar did not permit it,
It was rumored that she let Ammann and his leaving an elegant
her husband bleed to death architect Cass skeletal structure
in 1832 so she could inherit Gilbert has its 600 ft (183 m) high
his fortune. She later married own character and 3,500 ft
Aaron Burr, aged 77, and and history. Plans (1,067 m) long.
divorced him three years for a bridge linking Ammann had
later on the day he died. Manhattan to New The Little Red Lighthouse also allowed for
The exterior of the Palladian- Jersey had been under Washington Bridge a second deck
style, wood-sided Georgian in the pipeline for in his plan, and
house with Classical portico and more than 60 years before this lower deck was added in
octagonal wing has been restored. the Port of New York Authority 1962, increasing the bridge’s
The museum exhibits include raised the $59 million to fund capacity enormously. Now the
many original Jumel pieces. the project. It was Ammann eastbound toll collection shows
a traffic level of over 53 million
cars per year.
Below the eastern tower
in Fort Washington Park is a
lighthouse that dates from 1889,
and was saved from possible
demolition in 1951 by public
pressure. Many thousands of
young New Yorkers and children
all around the world have loved
the bedtime story The Little Red
Lighthouse and the Great Gray
Bridge (1942), and wrote letters
to save the lighthouse. Author
Hildegarde Hoyt Swift wove the
tale around her two favorite
New York landmarks.
The Little Red Lighthouse
Festival is held here every
September. The event includes
a special guest reading of the
Morris-Jumel Mansion, built in 1765, with its original colossal portico famous book.




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4 The Cloisters Museum

This world-famous museum of medieval Tomb Effigy of
art resides in a building constructed Jean d’Alluye
This tomb immortalizes
between 1934 and 1938, incorporating the 13th-century
medieval cloisters, chapels, and halls French crusader.
transported from Europe and rebuilt here.
Sculptor George Grey Barnard founded the Langon
museum in 1914; John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Chapel
funded the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Pontaut
1925 purchase of the collection and Chapter
donated the site at Fort Tryon Park and the House
land on the New Jersey side of the Hudson
River, directly across from The Cloisters.
Gothic
Chapel
. Unicorn Tapestries
The set of beautiful
tapestries, woven in the
Netherlands around
1500, depicts the quest
and capture of the
mythical unicorn.


Key
Exhibition space
Non-exhibition space

Gothic
Chapel

Bonnefort Cloister



Glass
Gallery


Boppard Stained-Glass
Lancets (1440–47)
Below the lancet of St. Catherine, Trie
angels display the arms of the Coopers’ Cloister
Guild, of which Catherine was patron.





. Annunciation
Triptych (c.1425)
The Campin Room is the
location of this small Robert
Campin of Tournai triptych, a
magnificent example of early
Netherlandish painting.




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THE CL OISTERS MUSEUM  247

Saint-Guilhem Cloister VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Intricate floral
ornamentation can Practical Information
be found on the
capitals of this cloister. Fort Tryon Park. Tel (212) 923-
3700. Open 10am–5:15pm daily
(Nov–Feb: to 4:45pm). Closed Jan
1, Thksgv, Dec 25. Donations. No
videos. 7 limited. 8 9:30am–
3:30pm (to 11:30am Sat). 9 -
May–Oct 10am–4:30pm. =
Concerts. ∑ metmuseum.org/
visit/met-cloisters
Transport
q A to 190th St (exit via
Romanesque elevator). @ M4.
Hall
Virgin and
Child Frescoes
This 12th-century fresco
Upper is from the Catalan
floor Church of the Virgin.



Lower
floor





Cuxa Cloister
The reconstructed 12th-century
cloister features Romanesque
architectural detail and motifs.
Main
entrance
Enthroned Virgin and Child
This elaborately carved
ivory sculpture was made
in England during the
late 13th century.






Gallery Guide
The museum is organized
roughly in chronological order.
It starts with the Romanesque
period (AD 1000) and moves
to the Gothic (1150 to 1520). . Belles Heures
Sculptures, stained glass, This book of hours, commissioned
paintings, and the gardens are by Jean, Duc de Berry, is among a
on the lower floor. The Unicorn rotating installation of exquisite
Tapestries are on the upper floor. illuminated books and folios.




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Exploring The Cloisters Museum

Known particularly for its Romanesque and Gothic
architectural sculpture, The Cloisters’ collection also
includes illuminated manuscripts, stained glass,
metalwork, enamels, ivories, and paintings. Among its
tapestries is the renowned Unicorn series. The Cloisters’
splendid medieval complex is unrivaled in North America.


powerful rounded arches
and intricate details. Highly
embellished capitals and
warm, pink marble typify the
12th­century Cuxa Cloister from
the Pyrenees in France. A griffin,
a dragon, a centaur, and a
basilisk are among the creatures A 16th-century Flemish boxwood rosary
parading over the Narbonne bead from the Treasury
Arch nearby.
In a more solemn style, the Gothic Art
apse from the church of Where Romanesque art
St. Martín in Fuentidueña, was solid, the Gothic style
Spain, is a massive rounded vault that followed (from 1150
A lifesized 12th-century Spanish crucifix constructed from 3,300 blocks of to around 1520) was open,
portraying Christ as the King of Heaven limestone. It is decorated with a with pointed arches, glowing
12th­century fresco of the Virgin stained­glass windows, and
and Child and has a golden­ three­dimensional sculpture.
Romanesque Art
crowned Christ depicted as Gothic depictions of the Virgin
Fanciful beasts and people, triumphant over death. and Child typically display
acanthus blossoms and scroll­ More than 800 years ago, exquisite craftsmanship.
work top the columns around Benedictine and Cistercian monks The Gothic Chapel’s
The Cloisters. Many are in the sat on the cold stone benches brilliantly colored windows
Romanesque style that in the Pontaut Chapter House. By show scenes and figures from
flourished in the 11th and 12th the 19th century the building biblical stories. Lifesized tomb
centuries. The museum has had become so neglected that sculptures include the effigy
numerous masterpieces of it was used as a stable. Its of the Crusader knight Jean
Romanesque art and archi­ ribbed vaulting is a foretaste of d’Alluye. During the 1790s,
tecture, showing the style’s the Gothic style to come. the statue’s original home,























Vaulted ceiling of the Pontaut Chapter House




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