Danube Sights ❮❮ 49
Margaret Island
5 ÚJPESTI RKPT ÚJLIPÓTVÁROS
Budapest’s oasis and a great
place to spend summer afternoons, SLACHTA MARGIT RKPT PANNÓNIA U VÁCI ÚT LEHEL U
Margaret Island was in fact three
Nyugati
separate islands until they were MARGIT K ÖRÚT BEM SZENT ISTVÁN KRT Pályaudvar
joined together by ground-breaking J. U HONVÉD U PODMANICZKY U
embankment work in the latter part CSALOGÁNY U FŐ U Duna (Danube)
of the 19th century (see pp22–3). Batthyány SZÉCHENYI RKPT
tér Kossuth
tér
ANDRÁSSY ÚT
Margaret Bridge
6 VÍZIVÁROS BEM RAKPART ALKOTMÁNY U BAJCSY-ZSILINSZKY ÚT NAGYMEZŐ U
Arany J.u.
MAP B2
VÁR
The gateway to Margaret Island FŐ U 6 U OKTÓBER Deák tér
(Margit híd) was built by a Frenchman,
Ernest Gouin, from 1872 to 1876, ALAGÚT U Vörösmarty KÁROLY KRT
and is distinguished by its unusual KRISZTINA KÖRÚT FRIEDRICH BORN RKPT tér KOSSUTH L. U
ATTILA ÚT
chevron shape. The approach road Astoria
to the island, however, wasn’t added TABÁN KÁROLYI M. U
until the 1890s. HEG YALJA ÚT BELGRÁD RKPT Fővám VÁM H Á Z
tér
GELLÉRT
Liberty Bridge
7 0 metres 750 SZENT GELLÉRT RKPT KÖ R Ú T
MAP L6
Legendary Hungarian turul birds sit 0 yards 750 Szent Gellért tér
atop the Modernist girders of Liberty
Bridge (Szabadság híd). First built
in 1894–99, it was destroyed by the
Nazis during World War II – this is
an exact replica of the original. It was
earlier known as Emperor Franz
József Bridge, but the Communists
opted for a less imperial name.
Castle Hill Funicular
8
MAP H3 • I, Buda Castle,
Clark Ádam tér • 06 201 91 28 • Open
7:30am–10pm; closed 1st and 3rd
Mon of every month & end of Mar–
4 Apr • Adm
Kids of all ages love to ride up and
down the archaic funicular. The
journey is short, the cabins tiny, but
the views of the Danube below are The Chain Bridge, linking Buda and Pest
superb. Also, on a chilly or rainy day,
Chain Bridge
it beats walking up to the castle. 0
MAP J3
Embankment Walk
9 Completed in 1849, the Chain Bridge
(Széchenyi Lánchíd) was the first
MAP B3, B4, C5 • Columbus:
V, Vigadó tér, Port 4; 06 266 90 13; permanent crossing between Buda
Open noon–midnight daily • Spoon and Pest. On either side of the
Café & Lounge: V, Vigadó tér, Port 3; 06 Bridge are two huge towers that
411 09 33; Open noon–midnight daily support the mammoth chains from
This walk extends along most of which the bridge takes its name.
the Pest embankment, from Liberty The towers are superbly lit at night,
Bridge to Margaret Island and which makes the bridge one of the
beyond. Several boats moored on city’s most photographed sights.
the various quays have cafés aboard, In summer, the bridge closes at
including Columbus and Spoon. weekends to host a cultural festival.
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50 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Off the Beaten Track
Kiscelli Museum
1
MAP P1 • III, Kiscelli utca 108
• 06 250 03 04 • Open Apr–Oct:
10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar:
10am–4pm • Adm
While the exhibitions at the Kiscelli
Museum offer a fascinating look at
the history of Budapest over the past
three centuries, the real attraction
here is the stunning building itself,
an elegant 18th-century former
monastery in a mix of architectural
styles, perched on a wooded hill.
People’s Park
2
Locals will always tell you that
Városliget is for tourists, while real
Budapesters head for Népliget. The
name, after all, translates to mean
People’s Park. The park is home to
the city’s planet arium and, though
it’s hard to imagine today, its paths Fresh produce stalls at Lehel Market
formed the circuit for the Hungarian
Lehel Market
Grand Prix in 1936 (see p102). 4
MAP D2 • XIII, Lehel ter
• Open daily
A bit of an eyesore from the outside,
this is nevertheless the Budapest
market to visit if you want a local
shopping experience. Keep an eye
open for old ladies (nénis) selling
fresh produce direct from their own
plots, as well as a huge range of
delicious home-made cheeses.
Gül Baba Tomb
5
MAP B2 • II, Mecset utca 14
• 06 250 03 04 • Closed for
renovation until 2017 • Adm
A 400-year-old dome covers the tomb
The outdoor pool at Lukács Baths of Gül Baba, a Muslim dervish who
died in 1541, just after the fall of
Lukács Baths
3 Buda. He was one of few Turks
Not as celebrated as some
to be respected by the people of
of the better known Budapest Hungary. Surrounded by a rose
bath houses, the Lukács Baths offer garden, the tomb is engraved with
a truly local experience. The ticketing golden citations from the Koran.
system is complicated and you may
Mikszáth Kálmán ter
need an English-speaking local to 6
help you out, but it all adds to the and Budapest VIII
impression that you are far from MAP D5 • XIII, Lehel tér
the tourist crowds here. Prices Even just a decade ago this square,
are much lower, too (see p46). along with much of the historic
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Off the Beaten Track ❮❮ 51
Páva Street Synagogue
Budapest VIII district, was something 9
of a no-go area for tourists. However, and the Holocaust
private investment in its handsome Memorial Centre
yet long-neglected buildings has Built in the 1920s, the Páva had
rejuvenated the whole area, and fallen into disrepair after it was
it now has an appealing dohemian closed in 1941. Now a working
vibe, with funky shops, chic galleries, synagogue, after restoration during
and a buzzing nightclub scene. 2002 and 2005, it hosts a Holocaust
In summer, the square is a great Memorial Centre. Its Wall of Victims
place to people-watch, with locals bears the names of over 175,000
and visitors enjoying the café terraces. Hungarian Holocaust victims: more
names are being added all the time.
Fő tér, Óbuda
7
MAP P1
The focus of Fő tér, in the suburb of
Óbuda, is the Zichy Palace, a must-
see for those in the know, and home
to museums dedicated to the avant-
garde works of Vasarely (see p43) and
Kassák (see p104). The Neo-Baroque
Fő tér Palace opposite is perhaps
even more impressive, while just
north of the square on Laktanya
utca is a group of statues, Women
with Umbrellas, by contemporary
sculptor Imre Varga.
Pálvölgy Caves
8 Interior of Páva Street Synagogue
These caves are less well-
Aquincum
known than the more accessible 0
Szemlő-hegy Caves (see p101). It’s a pity that Aquincum – one
The most spectacular sights at of the largest Roman sites in central
Pálvölgy can be reached only via Europe – is not more popular with
steep ladders and by navigating visitors to Budapest. Wandering its
tricky natural rock formations ancient streets is a joy, not least early
as part of a 3-hour tour with an in the morning, when you may have
experienced guide (see p103). the place to yourself (see p101).
Ruined buildings of the ancient Roman city of Aquincum
050-051_Top_10_Budapest.indd 51 18/10/2016 12:35
52 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Children’s Attractions
Cogwheel
VÁCI ÚT 0 km 1 1 3
Railway and
0 miles
ÚJPESTI RAKPART
DRÁVA U
Margit-sziget Mexikói Children’s Railway
Margaret út Cogwheel Railway: MAP
Island Lehel tér VÁCI ÚT DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT Széchenyi N1–2; XII, Golfpálya út; 06
LEHEL U
ÁRPÁD FEJEDELEM ÚTJA
ÚJLIPÓTVÁROS Hősök fürdő 397 53 92; open 9am–
4pm daily (last trains vary);
tere
PODMANICZKY U ANDRÁSSY ÚT Városliget adm; www.gyermekvasut.
Nyugati pu. VI
SZENT
ISTVÁN KRT
Batthyány TERÉZVÁROS DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT AJTÓSI DÜRER hu • Children’s Railway:
tér SOR
4km TERÉZ KÖRÚT Vörösmarty MAP N1–2; II, Városmajor
utca
RÁKÓCZI ÚT THÖKÖLY
Opera Oktogon ÚT station, Szilágyi Erzsébet
ERZSÉBETVÁROS Keleti fasor 16; 06 355 41 67;
BAJCSY-
HONVÉD U
Keleti pu. pu. open 5am–11:45pm daily;
ZSILINSZKY ÚT
SZÉCHENYI RAKPART
FŐ U
KEREPESI ÚT
adm; www.bkk.hu
ERZSÉBET KRT
RÁKÓCZI ÚT Blaha 2.5km
VÁR BÉCSI U Deák tér FIUMEI ÚT Children aged 9 to 14 man
10km ATTILA ÚT Lujza tér a narrow-gauge railway
BELGRÁD RKPT
that runs through the
VÍZIVÁROS Du na (Danube)
Buda Hills (see p101)
from Széchenyi Hill to Hűvös Valley.
The only adults on board are the
engineers. To get to the train, take the
cogwheel railway up from Városmajor.
This track is 3,730 m (12,240 ft) long
and climbs to 315 m (1,035 ft).
Csopa – Center of
4
Scientific Wonders
MAP N3 • XXII, Nagytétényi út 37–43
• 06 814 80 50 • Open 10am–7pm
daily • Adm • www.csopa.hu
Model of a garage at Miniversum Hungary’s first hands-on science
exhibition, Csopa offers a playful learn-
Miniversum
1 ing experience for all ages. Experience
the world of physics here with over
MAP L2 • VI, Andrássy út 12
• Open 9am–7pm Sun–Thu (to 10pm 100 live science shows and exhibits.
Fri, Sat) • Adm • www.miniversum.hu There is also a family programme.
Get to know Budapest and Hungary
Castle Hill Funicular
in miniature. As well as delightfully 5
reproduced city- and landscapes, Children adore riding in
there are scenes from everyday life the front cabin of the Castle Hill
around the country, plus an active funicular. The journey takes just
rail network. In addition, games and three minutes or so, but the views
treasure hunts provide a captivating
hour or two for kids of all ages. The
attention to detail is remarkable.
Palatinus Strand
2
Margaret Island is home to
Palatinus Strand, Budapest’s most
popular swimming pool and thermal
bath complex. Slides and a variety of
children’s pools make it a popular
choice for families (see p47). Castle Hill Funicular
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Children’s Attractions ❮❮ 53
Labyrinth
8
MAP G2, G3 • I, Úri utca 9
• 06 212 02 07 • Open 10am–7pm
daily • Adm • www.labirintus.eu
Make sure you don’t lose your kids
in this underground maze of tunnels
and chambers. It is thought that the
caves, which are around 15 m (49 ft)
below ground level, were formed by
hot springs about half a million years
ago. They were a refuge for hunters
and gatherers from around 10,000 BC,
and even served as a bomb shelter
during World War II. A special
exhibition on the infamous prisoner
Vlad Tepes, also known as Dracula,
includes a torture chamber and
mannequins of his victims.
9
Acrobats at Capital Circus Open-Air Skating Rink
and Boating Lake
of the Danube as you climb up to the MAP E2 • Városliget (City Park), Buda
castle are magnificent, and the two pest XIV • Boating Lake: Olof Palme
replica 1870 cars, Margit and Gellért, sétány 5; 0620 261 52 09; open 10am–
are charming (see p49). 10pm; adm Ft1,200 (30 mins) • Skating
Rink: open late Oct–early Mar; tim
Capital Circus
6 ings vary; adm; www.mujegpalya.hu
In winter, Városliget Lake turns into
MAP E2 • XIV, Városliget (City
Park), Állatkerti körút 12/a • 06 343 a superb skating rink, where people
83 00 • Daily performances: 3pm skate to classical music. During the
Wed–Sat (also 7pm Sat) • Adm summer, boats replace the skaters,
This permanent circus, performing as families row their craft around the
every Wednesday to Sunday, offers lake. Skates and boats can both be
plenty of fun for all the family. The hired at the jetty near the pavilion.
programme varies, but the focus is There is also a visitors’ centre.
on remarkable feats of acrobatics,
often from well-known international
acts. Light and water shows, high-
wire acts and clowns often feature.
In summer, the circus hosts the
International Circus Festival. Shows
are over two hours long, so may tire
small children.
Planetarium
7
MAP P2 • X, Népliget • 06 263
18 11 • Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun Városliget Boating Lake
• Adm
Budapest Zoo
Although small and by no means 0
spec tacular, Budapest’s planetarium Budapest’s zoo is large, well
accurately charts the course of the funded and one of the best in the
planets and the stars, accompanied region. It has a large aquarium,
by a slightly dated pop and rock an impressive aviary and a superb
sound track. With shows throughout reptile house. The staff speak several
the day, it makes for a very good languages and are good at educating
wet-weather option. children about the animals (see p97).
052-053_Top_10_Budapest.indd 53 18/10/2016 12:35
54 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Restaurants
Costes
4
MAP M5 • IX, Ráday utca 4
• 06 219 06 96 • Open 6:30pm–
midnight Wed–Sun • Dis. access
• www.costes.hu • FFF
Local gourmets swear by this sleek,
contemporary restaurant, which
was the first in Budapest to receive
a Michelin star (see p93).
5
Interior of Onyx Restaurant Nobu
MAP K3 • V, Kempinski Hotel
Onyx Restaurant
1 Corvinus, Erzsébet tér 7–8 • 06 429
MAP K3 • V, Vörösmarty tér
42 42 • Open noon–3pm & 6–
7–8 • 0630 508 06 22 • Open noon– 11:45pm daily (lounge bar to 2am)
2:30pm & 6:30–11pm Tue–Fri, 6:30– • Dis. access • www.nobu
11pm Sat • Dis. access restaurants.com • FFF
• www.onyxrestaurant. The Budapest elite
hu • FFF gather here to enjoy the
Connected to the sophis ticated sushi bar or
legendary Gerbeaud the private dining rooms.
Cukrászda (see p57),
Comme
the Michelin-starred 6
Onyx offers traditional Onyx seafood dish Chez Soi
gourmet cuisine in a MAP K4 • V, Aranykéz
welcoming environment (see p85). utca 2 • 06 318 39 43 • Open noon–
midnight Mon–Sat • FFF
Kacsa Vendéglő
2 Despite the French name, this place
serves fine Italian food, including some
MAP B3 • I, Fő utca 75 • 06 201
99 92 • Open noon–midnight • Dis. of the best seafood dishes in the city.
access • www.kacsavendeglo.hu
Baraka
• FFF 7
Kacsa means “duck” in Hungarian, MAP K3 • Dorottya utca 6
so it’s easy to guess what dominates • 06 200 08 17 • Open noon–3pm,
the menu here. Duck is served 6–11pm daily • Dis. access
in many inventive and delicious • www.barakarestaurant.hu • FFF
guises. There is a great deal more It is essential to book ahead for
than duck on offer, however, and arguably Budapest’s best restaurant.
the wine list is simply superb. Head chef Norbert Biró dishes up
creative cuisine and divine desserts.
Arany Kaviár
3 The service is also excellent.
MAP G1 • I, Ostrom utca 19
• 06 201 67 37 • Open noon–3pm,
6pm–midnight Tue–Sun • FF
Just north of the Castle District, this
gorgeous little restaurant serves an
adventurous melange of local and
Russian food. Every dish is a work
of art, and can be accom panied by
carefully chosen wines or one of
a number of exclusive vodkas. The
charming staff will help you make
sense of the menu (see p73). The bar at Baraka
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Size 100mm x 191mm
Restaurants ❮❮ 55
Búsuló Juhász Étterem
8 TOP 10 HUNGARIAN DISHES
MAP B6 • XI, Kelenhegyi
út 58 • 06 209 16 49 • Open noon–
midnight daily • Dis. access
• www.busulojuhasz.hu • FFF
The views from this traditional
restaurant on the slopes of Gellért
Hill are outstanding. However, the
food is average, and the Gypsy band
that shuttles from table to table can
either be a nuisance or a delight
depending on your mood (see p79).
Töltött paprika (stuffed pepper)
1 Libamáj Zsírjában
Goose liver, fried in its own fat,
is a Hungarian spe ciality and is
considered a great delicacy.
2 Kolbász
Sausages of all types. The classic
Hungarian sausage is usually
very spicy.
3 Bakonyi Sertésborda
Pork chop served in a creamy
mushroom sauce.
4 Bélszínszelet Budapest Módra
Classic Budapest beef and paprika
dish, though the beef needs to
Alabárdos Étterem be of very high quality to get the
best taste.
Alabárdos Étterem
9 5 Marhapörkölt Tarhonyával
MAP G2 • I, Országház utca 2
• 06 356 08 51 • Open 7–11pm Mon– Traditional Hungarian beef goulash
in a hot, paprika sauce, often
Fri, noon–3pm & 7–11pm Sat • Dis. accompanied by soft noodles.
access • www.alabardos.hu • FFF 6 Brassói Aprópecsenye
This is about the only place to come Pork stew, strongly seasoned
for Hungarian food as it used to be with garlic and paprika and
cooked. From the goose-liver terrine accompanied by fried potatoes.
to the delicious chicken paprika with 7 Borjúbélszín Gundel Módra
curd strudel, everything on the menu Medallions of veal cooked in a rich
is authentic. Prices are high but the mushroom sauce.
food is worth every forint (see p73). 8 Erdélyi Fatányéros
Kollázs
0 Popular Transylvanian mixed grill of
pork and beef, lavishly garnished with
MAP K3 • V, Széchenyi István
tér 5–6 • 06 268 51 84 • 6:30am–1am pickles, peppers and chips. Presented
on a wooden platter, each portion is
daily • Dis. access • FFF intended to serve two people.
The Gresham Palace Hotel (see p83) 9 Töltött Paprika
has a long and illustrious history of Peppers stuffed with rice and mince
fine dining, and its latest flagship and served in a tomato sauce –
restaurant is the best yet. First-class another Transylvanian favourite.
food is served in a spectacular 10 Halászlé
Secession-style brasserie and bar. Hungarians do not cook much fish,
In summer, diners can sit on a grand but this carp soup, seasoned with
terrace overlooking the Danube and paprika, is popular in winter.
the Chain Bridge (see p85).
For a key to restaurant price ranges see p73
054-055_Top_10_Budapest.indd 55 18/10/2016 12:35
56 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Cafés, Pubs and Bars
Tóth Kocsma
1
MAP C2 • V, Falk Miksa utca 17
• 06 302 64 42 • Open 3pm–midnight
Mon–Fri (from 5pm Sat)
Despite being close to the main
sights, this place has the look and
feel of a classic local Budapest pub.
Well-priced drinks, including home-
made cider, good bar food and
pave ment tables in nice weather.
It’s small, so be prepared to stand.
Szimpla Kert
2
MAP M3 • VII, Kazinczy utca 14
• 06 352 41 98 • Open noon–3am daily Hungarian wine bar Doblo
This is the biggest of the seventh
Doblo
district’s so-called ruin pubs and one 4
of the most renowned. There is an MAP M3 • VII, Dob utca 20
abundance of nooks and crannies • 0620 398 88 63 • Open 2pm–2am
inside the building, while the outdoor daily (to 4am Thu–Sat)
area offers ample seating, as well as There’s exposed brickwork inside
movies during the summer. Szimpla and out at this charming little bar,
also hosts a series of summertime which serves one of the city’s largest
concerts featuring jazz, rock, blues selections of Hungarian wines,
and more, all of which are free. almost all of which are available
by the glass. Even the bar snacks
menu has suggestions for the
perfect accompanying wine.
Ötkert
5
MAP K2 • V, Zrínyi utca 4 • 06
330 86 52 • Open noon–midnight
Sun–Tue, noon–4am Wed & Thu,
noon–5am Fri & Sat
Budapest’s ruin pubs are legendary,
but this place gives the concept an
upmarket makeover. The light meals
and cocktails are great, but the
Hip ruined-garden bar Szimpla Kert service can be a touch surly.
Blue Tomato
Blue Bird Café
3 6
MAP C2 • XIII, Pannónia
MAP M3 • VII, Dob utca 16 • 06
208 05 80 • Open 9am–10pm daily utca 5 • 06 339 80 99 • Open noon–
Quirky design, award-winning coffee, midnight Mon–Thu, noon–2am Fri &
big American-style breakfasts and Sat, noon–11pm Sun
huge slices of home-made cake This is a big, spacious place set over
make this just about the most two floors and selling Guinness on
popular café in town. It’s also one tap. As well as the pub and bar, there
of the most colourful: a riot of blue is also a high-end restaurant that
and gold. The Blue Bird also boasts serves international cuisine; try one
a lovely interior courtyard, which of the steaks. The cellar houses the
makes for a blissfully cool escape music zone, where DJs and bands
from the summer heat. will keep you entertained.
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Cafés, Pubs and Bars ❮❮ 57
Boutiq’Bar
7
MAP L3 • VI, Paulay Ede utca 5
• 0630 229 18 21 • Open 6pm–late
Tue–Sat
Outside of the smart hotels,
down town Pest used to have a
shortage of good cocktail bars, but
that is no longer the case. The team
of dedicated young mixologists here
is adept at creating both classic and Gerbeaud Cukrászda cakes
innovative cocktails. Prices are not
Gerbeaud Cukrászda
cheap, but the quality of the drinks is 9
superb, and the service impeccable. (Café Gerbeaud)
MAP K3 • V, Vörösmarty tér 7 • 06
429 90 00 • Open 9am–9pm daily
Possibly Budapest’s most famous
and elegant café, Gerbeaud is a real
treat for coffee- and dessert-lovers,
as well as for historians. It is worth
stopping here simply to admire the
brass cash register and the saloons
complete with old chandeliers.
New York Café és
0
Stylish interior of Boutiq’Bar Étterem
MAP D4 • VII, Erzsébet körút 9–11
Café Vian
8 • 06 322 38 49 • Open 9am–midnight
This lavish coffee house and restau-
MAP M2 • VI, Liszt Ferenc tér 9
• 06 268 11 54 • Open 9am–1am daily rant inside the New York Palace
Even with big-brand coffee houses (now home to a hotel, see p114) has a
opening all over Budapest, Café Vian fascinating history. Its richly frescoed
continues to be busy both day ceilings and little gold chairs belie
and night. It is warm and inviting, the fact that it was once a hangout
contem porary yet traditional, and for impoverished writers. The food is
the coffee and food are fantastic. excellent, but portions can be small.
Opulent decor at the gleaming New York Café és Étterem
056-057_Top_10_Budapest.indd 57 18/10/2016 12:35
58 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Shops and Markets
Apponyi Márkabolt
WestEnd City Center
1 2
MAP K3 • V, József nádor tér
MAP C2 • VI, Váci út 1–3 • 06
238 77 77 • Open 10am–9pm Mon– 11 • 06 317 26 22 • Open 10am–6pm
Sat, 10am–6pm Sun • Dis. access Mon–Fri, 10am–2pm Sat • www.
This vast, three-level complex of more herend.com
than 400 shops is next to Nyugati As much a museum as it is a shop,
Railway Station. All your favourite Apponyi is an authorized retailer of
brands and stores can be found here, Hungary’s finest porcelain, known as
though don’t expect bargains, as prices Herend. The Herend factory, to the
are often high er than at home. Don’t west of the city, has been making
miss the rooftop garden. Some com- exquisite porcelain for generations.
munity events also take place here. Most pieces at Apponyi command
high prices, and everything is housed
in large, priceless wooden cabinets
beneath a splendid wooden ceiling.
Fashion Streets
3
MAP K3 • Deák Ferenc utca
• MAP L2–L3 • Andrássy út
Classy fashion stores and cafés
dominate two of the city’s most
elegant shopping streets. Deák
Ferenc utca (also called Fashion
Street), which runs towards Váci
utca, features brands such as Hugo
Boss and Tommy Hilfiger. More
glamorous options line the elegant
Andrássy út (see p95), including
Louis Vuitton and Gucci.
Gouba
4
MAP L3 • Király utca 13
WestEnd City Center • Open 10am–7pm • www.gouba.hu
Between March and
ÚJLIPÓTVÁROS VÁCI ÚT PODMANICZKY U Bajza Hősök tere October, the Gouba
(Gozsdu Bazaar) is
utca
SZÉCHENYI SZENT ISTVÁN KRT TERÉZVÁROS ANDRÁSSY ÚT DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT held every Sunday in the
Városliget
RAKPART
Nyugati pu.
Gozsdu Passage, offering
AJTÓSI
FASOR
LIPÓTVÁROS TERÉZ KRT VÁROSLIGETI DÜRER SOR diverse arts and crafts,
Vörösmarty
utca gastro nomic delights
Kossuth Oktogon
tér BAJCSY-ZSILINSZKY ÚT KIRÁLY U and entertainment.
Arany J.u. ROTTENBILLER U
Opera ERZSÉBETVÁROS THÖKÖLY ÚT Párizsi
Keleti pu.
Nagyáruház
Bajcsy-Zs. út ERZSÉBET KRT 5
Deák RÁKÓCZI ÚT KEREPESI ÚT
tér Blaha MAP M2 • VI, Andrássy út
Lujza tér FIUMEI ÚT
Vörösmarty RÁKÓCZI ÚT NÉPSZÍNHÁZ U 39 • 06 484 80 00 • Open
tér JÓZSEFVÁROS 10am–10pm daily
Astoria Józsefvárosi
BELGRÁD RKPT
Ferenciek tere Pályaudvar The Paris Department
Duna
Kálvin tér JÓZSEF KÖRÚT Store is on Budapest’s
VÁMHÁZ K R T ÜLLŐI ÚT Street or Fifth Avenue.
Fővám tér BAROSS U equivalent of Oxford
(Danube)
Corvin 0 metres 1000 This beautiful shopping
GELLÉRT Negyed 0 yards 1000 centre specializes in
058-059_Top_10_Budapest.indd 58 18/10/2016 12:35
Shops and Markets ❮❮ 59
books (with a generous selection and jewellery from one of Hungary’s
of English-language titles), music, best-known auction houses. There
gifts and fine wine. There’s also a are several other BÁV shops across
delightful Art Nouveau café upstairs. the city, with different specializations.
Memories of Hungary
9
MAP L3 • V, Hercegprímás út 8
• 06 780 58 44 • Open 10am–10pm
daily • www.memoriesofhungary.hu
Located on the edge of St Stephen’s
Square, next door to the Basilica,
Memories of Hungary sells a wide
range of traditional products made
by local craftsmen and artists.
Pick up a souvenir from their wide
range of fabrics, porcelain, ceramics,
jewellery, toys, Rubik’s Cubes and
food items.
Central Market Hall
Central Market Hall
6
MAP M6 • V, Vámház körút 1–3
• 06 366 33 00 • Open 6am–5pm
Mon, 6am–6pm Tue–Fri, 6am–3pm
Sat • Dis. access
Budapest’s main produce market
is great for local delicacies. Impec-
cably clean, it has numerous stalls Memories of Hungary ceramics
selling meat, salami, fruit and
Rózsavölgyi Szalon Arts
vegetables. The upper floor has 0
several street food stalls, restaurants & Café
and souvenir shops. MAP L4 • Szervita tér 5 • 06 318 35
00 • Open 10am–10pm Mon–Sat
Polgár Galéria
7 Rózsavölgyi is a treasure-trove
for musicians and lovers of music.
MAP M4 • V, Kossuth Lajos
utca 3 • 06 318 69 54 • Open 10am– Opened in 1912, this old store
6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–1pm Sat specializes in sheet music and
• www.polgar-galeria.hu records. Musical instruments
A sensational art and antiques are sold as well. It is also a venue
gallery, where you can purchase for theatrical and musical perfor-
works by classical and contemporary mances and literary and fine arts
Hungarian artists. You will also find events, which you can enjoy along
rare antiques, including imperial with a cup of coffee or a light meal.
Habsburg furniture. The gallery even
looks after all onward shipping and
related paperwork.
BÁV Jewellery (Rubin
8
Ékszerbolt)
BÁV Jewellery: MAP L4; V, Párizsi utca
2; 06 318 62 17 • BÁV: MAP K3; V,
Bécsi utca 1; 06 429 30 20 • Open
(both shops) 10am–7pm Mon–Fri,
10am–2pm Sat • www.bav.hu
A collection of fine antique watches The Gouba art market
058-059_Top_10_Budapest.indd 59 18/10/2016 12:35
60 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Budapest for Free
Walking Tours
4
Budding tour guides, and
locals who simply want to share their
knowledge of the city, offer a number
of free, themed daily walking tours
during spring and summer. The
unofficial meeting point for these
walks is the fountain in Vörösmarty
tér: get here between 10am and
11am and you should have no
problem finding one to join. Although
free, your guide will appreciate a tip
if you find the tour worthwhile.
5
The Pest embankment Danube Carnival
Throughout June, the Danube
Pest Embankment
1 Carnival takes over Vörösmarty tér,
the Pest embankment and – on
A walk along the Danube
embankment from the Elizabeth some weekends – the Chain Bridge.
Bridge to Parliament is an eye- Most of the concerts, parades, street
opening trip through various eras of art and children’s events held as
Hungarian history and architecture, part of the festival are free.
all overseen by the Royal Palace
Gellért Hill
on the opposite bank. Look out 6
for street artists and musicians in Gellért Hill (see p78) is
summer, and pause to contemplate surprisingly steep, and climbing
the moving Shoes on the Danube up to the Citadel on the top offers
memorial (see pp48–9). something of a challenge to even the
fittest. Make sure to stop to admire
St Stephen’s Basilica
2 the Gellért Monument on the way up,
before heading down the other side
You will need to pay a small
fee to view the treasury or climb to via the unique Cave Church (see p75).
the dome, but the main attractions
Fishermen’s Bastion
of Budapest’s largest church are free: 7
the Main Altar, featuring a stunning The defining view of Budapest
marble statue of St Stephen (King is that offered from the turrets of the
István); the Gyula Benczúr portrait Fishermen’s Bastion up on Castle
of István dedicating Hungary to the Hill, from where you can pick out all
Virgin Mary; and the Holy Right Hand, of the city’s major landmarks. Just
believed to be the right forearm of make sure you get here early in the
István himself (see pp16–17).
Museums on
3
National Holidays
Most of Hungary’s state and
municipal museums are free
on national holi days (see p63).
The National Museum (see pp34–5),
the National Gallery (see pp26–9)
and the Museum of Fine Arts (see
p95) are the pick of the bunch. Note
that the guided tour of Parliament
(see pp12–15) is not free. Fishermen’s Bastion
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Date 24th June 2015
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Budapest for Free ❮❮ 61
morning to get the best out of
the place, as the crowds can be TOP 10 MONEY-SAVING TIPS
over whelming later on (see p70).
Városliget
8
Central Budapest’s largest
park offers a wide range of free
things to see and do, from admiring
the Millennium Monument on
Heroes’ Square to enjoying a walk
through its surprisingly densely
forested paths. The park boasts
a large number of flower beds
around the central lake, a riot Hungarian wine
of colour in bloom (see pp94–7). 1 Buy a travelcard if using public
transport. These are available for 1,
3 or 7 days and make travel much
cheaper (see www.bkk.hu/en).
2 Most restaurants in the city centre –
especially those close to office
buildings – offer cheap set menu
deals at lunchtime.
3 The yellow licensed taxis have the
same, fixed fare. Make sure the price
per kilometre is clearly displayed.
4 Look out for free concerts and
street performers in Vörösmarty tér
and along Váci utca.
5 Most hotels in Budapest tend to offer
lower rates during the week.
6 Budapest’s smarter hostels usually
have private rooms with bathrooms,
Vajdahunyad Castle, Városliget which are much cheaper than hotels.
Margaret Island
9 7 Local Hungarian beer and wine is
often cheaper than imported alcohol
Elegant Margaret Island,
a park since the 1860s, is where (and often tastes much better).
Budapest residents come to find a 8 Do what local pensioners do and
little peace. Walk from one length visit bath houses early in the morning
to the other, past the ruins of a to grab the lowest prices.
13th-century Dominican monastery, 9 The Budapest Card offers free public
a UNESCO-protected water tower transport and reduced price admission
and through the lush Japanese to a number of museums and other
Garden, all for free (see pp22–3). attractions (see www.budapest-card.
com/en).
Inner City Parish Church
0 10 Budapest’s main parks, Népliget
and Városliget, are perfect for whiling
While the Mátyás Church
across the river gets all the attention away the hours – pack a picnic and
and visitors (despite the steep relax.
entrance fee), most locals will tell
you that the free Inner City Parish
Church is even more impressive.
Look out for remains of the original
15th-century frescoes, as well as the
mihrab, a reminder of the Turkish Budapest taxi
occupation (see p89).
060-061_Top_10_Budapest.indd 61 18/10/2016 12:35
62 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Festivals and Events
Dancing and laser shows at Sziget Festival of pop and rock music
Budapest Spring Festival
Sziget Festival
1 5
www.sziget.hu
www.btf.hu
The Budapest Spring Festival runs Central Europe’s biggest pop and
for two weeks in April and features rock festival makes perfect use of
world-class performers. Outstanding Óbudai, an island in the middle of
opera, chamber and classi cal music, the Danube. The world’s leading
literature and theatre take over artistes perform over a week in
almost every performance art mid-August. Most revellers stay
venue in the city. on the island the whole week,
sleeping in tents.
Budapest Dance Festival
2 Festival of Folk Arts
www.budapesttancfesztival.hu
Each year in August, Dísz tér
Paying tribute to the art of dance 6
and usually held on 29 April (the in the Castle District comes alive for
Day of Dance), this festival introduces four days of arts and crafts. Skilled
the season’s productions, features craftsmen from all over Hungary
foreign com panies and honours the flock here to display and sell their
year’s best Hungarian dance artists. wares. There are also perfor mances
The host institutes are the National of Hungarian folk music and dance.
Dance Theatre and Hungary’s The highlight, however, is the
cultural hub, the Palace of Arts. crafts men’s parade that takes place
on St Stephen’s Day (20 August).
Budapest Summer
3
Festival
www.szabadter.hu
The Budapest Summer Festival takes
place every weekend from June
until August. Both international and
Hun garian theatre and music shows
take place in the city’s parks.
Hungarian Grand Prix
4
www.hungaroring.hu
The Hungaroring circuit is 19 km
(12 miles) from Budapest. The city
goes into Grand Prix mode at least
a week before the race (usually the
end of July). Tickets are expensive
and best booked in advance. Parade at the Festival of Folk Arts
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Festivals and Events ❮❮ 63
Jewish Summer Festival
7 TOP 10 HOLIDAYS
www.zsidonyarifesztival.hu
This week-long celebration of Jewish 1 Anniversary of 1848 Revolution
culture is usually held at the end of (15 Mar)
August. It features music, dance, Hungarians pay their respects to Sándor
visual arts, comedy and cabaret. Full Petőfi by re-enacting his poem at the
details are available at the Jewinform National Museum (see pp34–5).
pavilion next to the Great Synagogue 2 Easter (Mar/Apr)
on Dohány utca (see pp36–7). As a largely Catholic nation, Hungarians
celebrate Easter quietly at home.
Budapest Wine Festival
8 3 Whit Sunday and Monday
(7th Sunday and the following
www.winefestival.hu
Every September, the area around Monday after Easter)
This national holiday celebrates
Buda Castle is filled with Hungary’s the descent of the Holy Spirit.
finest wine merchants and artisanal
food producers, who display their 4 Labour Day (1 May)
latest offerings. There is also a Once a Communist holiday marked
with processions of workers, Labour Day
parade and a charity wine auction. is still observed as a national holiday.
5 St Stephen’s Day (20 Aug)
Celebrates the coronation of
St Stephen (István), Hungary’s patron
saint, with a firework display over
the Danube.
6 Republic Day (23 Oct)
A double celebration commemorates
the outbreak of the 1956 revolution
and the 1989 proclamation of the
Republic of Hungary.
7 All Saints’ Day (1 Nov)
Celebrates saints who do not have their
own holy days. The preceding day,
Budapest Wine Festival people visit cemeteries to light candles
in remembrance of their lost relatives.
Café Budapest Contem
9 8 Santa Claus Day (6 Dec)
porary Arts Festival
This is when children hope to find
www.cafebudapestfest.hu small gifts left in their polished shoes
“Art is communication; communi- by Santa Claus (Mikulás).
cation can best be learned through 9 Christmas (24–26 Dec)
art”. This message has driven the The city’s famed Christmas gift market
Budapest Autumn Festival for many takes place throughout December.
years. One of Europe’s leading 10 New Year (31 Dec)
celebrations of the contemporary arts, New Year’s Eve is celebrated on the
the festival makes a special effort to streets. Vörösmarty tér usually hosts
pop concerts and firework displays.
showcase the work of artists who
have few opportunities open to them,
and to stimulate communication
among different genres.
Christmas Fair
0
www.budapestinfo.hu
At the end of November, Vörösmarty
Square turns into a festive market
for Hungarian arts, crafts and food.
At 5pm daily, a new window of the
Advent calendar opens on the façade Christmas Nativity scene
of Gerbeaud Cukrászda (see p57).
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64 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Day Trips from Budapest
Visegrád
1 highlights, but the Baroque palace
and museum – especially the Palace
Bus from Árpád híd • Castle:
0626 59 70 10; open May–Sep: 9am– Chapel, Franz József’s salon and
5pm Tue–Sun • Palace: open 9am– the gardens – are also worth a look.
6pm Tue–Sun
Fót
The splendid ruins of a 13th-century 3
castle are the focal point of Visegrád. Bus from Árpád híd; train from
The finest palace of its time, it stands Nyugati pu • Palace: 0627 36 13 39
atop a hill above the town. Visitors Fót is home to the Károlyi Palace, the
can also explore a 20th-century birthplace of Hungary’s first president,
reconstruction of the palace. Mihály Károlyi. The Church of the
Immaculate Conception, with its
columned nave, is also worth a visit.
Kecskemét
4
Train from Nyugati pu • Town
Hall: 0676 51 22 63 • Cifra Palace:
0676 48 07 76 • www.kecskemet.hu
Ödön Lechner’s town hall (1893–6),
with pink tiles and minaret-like spires,
is Kecskemét’s biggest draw. Another
Royal Palace at Gödöllő fine building is the Secession-style
Cifra Palace, built as a casino in 1902.
Gödöllő
2 Ráckeve
HÉV from Örs Vezér tere
• Royal Palace: 0628 41 01 24; open 5
Bus from Népliget
Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm; Nov–Mar: • Church: 0630 429 72 48
10am–4pm Mon–Fri; 10am–5pm This town’s highlight is its Orthodox
Sat & Sun; www.kiralyikastely.hu church – the oldest in Hungary –
The 18th-century Royal Palace at which was built by Serb settlers in
Gödöllő hosts a museum and theatre. 1487. The interior walls are covered
Open-air concerts and theatre are with well-preserved frescoes.
Esztergom Visegrád Vác Gyöngyös
Tata 10 Dorog Pilis 11 Aszód M3 E71 Mezőtárlány
Gerecse Szentendre Fót Hatvan
M1 E60 E75
10 Dunakeszi
Heves
Tatabánya Gödöllő
Za gyv a
Budaörs Budapest M0 E71 Jászberény
Vé r t e s Ferihegy Nagykáta
Bicske 31 32 Jászapáti Tisza
81
Martonvásár Érd 51 M5 E75 Üllő
Monor
Székesfehérvár Baracska Albertirsa 4 E60 Abony
8 E66 70 Dabas Cegléd Szolnok
Gárdony Ráckeve 5
M7 E71 Nagykörös
Balaton Polgárdi M6
Dunaújváros Duna (Danube) Kunszentmiklós Tiszaföldvár
M7 Kiskunság Kecskemét Tiszakécske Körös
Sárbogárd 61 52 44
Dunaföldvár Solt M5 Tisza
0 km 25
53 45
0 miles 25 Kiskunfélegyháza
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Day Trips from Budapest ❮❮ 65
Colourful Fő tér, the main square in the riverside town of Szentendre
Szentendre
Martonvásár
6 9
Train from Déli pu • Brunswick
HÉV from Batthyány tér
• Hungarian Open Air Museum: 0626 Palace: open 10am–noon, 2–5pm
50 25 00; open Apr–1 Nov: 9am–5pm (to 4pm winter) Tue–Sun • Park:
Tue–Sun; 2 Nov–11 Dec: 10am–4pm open summer: 8am–5pm; winter:
Sat & Sun; adm; www.skanzen.hu 8am–4pm • www.martonvasar.hu
• Ferenczy Museum: 0626 31 02 44; Brunswick Palace at Martonvásár
open 10am–6pm daily; adm; is one of the best-preserved stately
www.szentendre.hu homes in Hungary. The present
With cobbled lanes, pastel-coloured 19th-century building is a copy of an
buildings and tall Orthodox church earlier Baroque construc tion, built
spires, Szentendre is a picturesque in the late 18th century.
Hungarian town. Sights include
Esztergom
the Hungarian Open Air Museum, 0
which showcases country life from Bus from Árpád híd; train from
the 18th century until World War I, Nyugati pu • www.esztergom.hu
and the Ferenczy Museum’s Margit The capital city from the 10th to 13th
Kovács Ceramics Exhibition, which centuries, and the site of St Stephen’s
displays the works of one of baptism and coronation, Esztergom
Hungary’s best ceramic artists. has played an important role in
Hungarian history. The city’s vast
Kiskunfélegyháza
7 cathedral is the seat of Roman
Catholicism in Hungary.
Train from Nyugati pu • Park:
0676 48 26 11 • Tourist information:
0676 43 15 44 ; open 8am–4pm
Nationalist poet Sándor Petőfi (see
p41) spent a part of his childhood
in this town, and his house is now
a museum. East of town is the
Kiskunfélegyháza National Park.
Vác
8
Train from Nyugati pu • 0627
31 61 60 • www.tourinformvac.hu
Destroyed and rebuilt in the
17th century, this medieval town is
known for being the site of Hungary’s
Arc de Triomph, built in 1764. The cathedral at Esztergom
064-065_Top_10_Budapest.indd 65 18/10/2016 12:35
Budapest
Area by Area
The Danube, the Chain Bridge and
St Stephen’s Basilica at dusk
Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Chapter Openers “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v.1)
066-067_Top_10_Budapest.indd 66 18/10/2016 12:36
Date 22nd April 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm
The Castle District
and North Buda 68
Gellért and Tabán 74
Around Parliament 80
Central Pest 88
Around Városliget 94
Greater Budapest 100
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68 ❯❯ Budapest Area by Area The Castle District and North Buda ❮❮ 69
The Castle District
and North Buda
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, medieval Buda grew up around
its 13th-century castle, which was erected on a hill to protect it
from invaders. However, that wasn’t enough to deter the Turks,
who ravaged and then neglected Buda in the 16th century. It was
the Habsburgs who finally restored the town in the 19th century,
in glorious imperial style. North of the castle is Víziváros (Water
Town), an area first inhabited by people too poor to live on Castle
Hill. Today, it is one of the city’s most exclusive residential districts.
AREA MAP OF THE CASTLE DISTRICT AND NORTH BUDA 0 metres 200
500 metres
FÉNYES E. U.
MARGIT KÖRÚT ERŐD U. KÁROLY U. SZÁSZ KAPÁS U. HORVÁT U. 300 metres F 0 yards 200
K IS RÓ KUS U.
VARSÁNYI IRÉN U. VITÉZ U. GYORSKOCSI U. A N G E L S R O T TA R A K PA R T
U.
JURÁNYI
ERŐD U. KAPÁS U. FAZEKAS U. MEDVE U. NAGY
KACSA U. Ő UTCA
IMRE
L Ö V Ő H Á Z U T C A
RETEK UTCA TÉR
Széll Kálmán SZÉNA CSALOGÁNY U. CSALOGÁNY U.
Tér TÉR HATTYÚ U. BATTHYÁNY U. BEM RAKPART
MÁRIA
BATTHYÁNY U. FIÁTH JÁNOS U. SZABÓ ILONKA U. VÍZIVÁROS ISKOLA U. MARKOVITS FŐ UTCA Batthyány D u n a ( D a n u b e )
TÉR
TOLDY FERENC U.
tér
VÁRFOK U.
VÉRMEZŐ ÚT MÁTRAY U. LOVAS ÚT HUNFALVY U. FRANKLIN U. ISKOLA U. U. VÁM U. BEM Batthyány
tér
TÉR
FORTUNA U.
HESS A. SZILÁGYI RAKPART
L O G O D I U .
GIMNÁZIUM U.
TÁNCSICS MIHÁLY U.
LOVAS ÚT
DONÁT I U.
SZABÓ ILONKA U.
KORLÁT U. ÚRI U. TÉR CORVIN S T E H L O G Á B O R R A K PA R T
TOLDY FERENC U.
TÉR
ORSZÁGHÁZ U.
BUGÁT U. PONTY U.
Vérmező AT T I L A Ú T VÁR TÁRNO K U.
TÓTH ÁRPÁD SÉTÁNY
Déli LOVAS ÚT ÚRI U. HUNYA DI J Á NOS ÚT PALA U. FARKAS BÍRÓ U.
Pályaudvar
Széchenyi
DÍSZ F Ő U . lánchíd
TÉR Chain Bridge
FESZTY ÁRPÁD U. MIKÓ U. SZÍNHÁZ U. ÁDÁM TÉR
HU NYADI JÁNOS ÚT
CLARK
L O G O D I U .
KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
KOSCIUSZKO TÁDÉ UT.
ROHAM U. GYÖRGY
KRISZTINAVÁROS PAULER U. SZT.
TÉR
Top 10 Sights ALAGÚT U. FRIEDRICH BORN RKPT
see pp69–71 KRISZTINA VÁRALJA U.
TÉR
PALOTA ÚT
Restaurants L Á N C H Í D U T C A
see p73 TIGRIS U. GELLÉRTHEGY U. U.
Cafés, Pubs and Bars LISZNYAI U. SARLÓ AT T I L A
FENYŐ U. DÓZSA Ú T
NAPHEGY U.
see p74 ORVOS U.
TÉR
Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
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68 ❯❯ Budapest Area by Area The Castle District and North Buda ❮❮ 69
Hungarian National
Royal Palace
1 3
Gallery
MAP B4
Towering above Budapest, the Royal It would take weeks to view all
Palace, or castle, is an amalgam ation the exhibits in the National Gallery,
of several buildings. Most of the as there are thousands of works
present Habsburg Palace was on display at any given time. From
built in the 18th century during the medieval altarpieces to striking
reign of Maria Theresa, but it was Seces sion paintings, it’s all here. The
preceded by a palace and two castles. gallery shares its collection with the
The first castle was built around 1255, Museum of Fine Arts (see pp26–9).
but was rebuilt by Mátyás I in 1458.
Following damage in World War II,
the palace was renovated again,
with some parts, such as the dome,
being entirely rebuilt. It now houses
several museums, including the
Budapest History Museum and
the Hungarian National Gallery.
Budapest History
2
Museum
MAP J4 • I, Wing E of the Royal
Palace, Szent György tér 2 • 06 487 88
01 • Open Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue– Hungarian National Gallery
Sun; Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun
Sándor Palace
• Dis. access • www.btm.hu • Adm 4
Also known as the Castle Museum, MAP H3 • I, Szent György
this fascinating collection of artifacts tér 1–3 • Closed to the public
and historical documents traces the The official residence of the
city’s and the castle’s history via three Hungarian president can only be
distinct exhibitions. The basement admired from the outside, but the
houses a display on the castle during superb Neo-Classical motifs and
the Middle Ages that includes a bas-reliefs by Richárd Török, Miklós
recreation of a vaulted chapel from Melocco and Tamás Körössényi are
the earliest 1255 structure. Gothic worth spending time over. The
sculptures and armour that were Palace was commissioned in
unearthed while renovating the Royal 1806 by Count Vincent Sándor,
Palace after World War II are also and designed by Mihály Pollack
displayed. The ground floor has and Johann Aman. It was severely
exhibits on the city’s evolution from damaged in 1944, and was almost
Roman times to the 17th century, entirely rebuilt after World War II.
while the first floor explores
“Budapest in Modern Times”. Budapest’s Royal Palace
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70 ❯❯ Budapest Area by Area The Castle District and North Buda ❮❮ 71
ALAGÚT
The famous tunnel (alagút) that runs
through Castle Hill was one of the later
projects of Adam Clark, the Scottish
engineer who built the Chain Bridge.
Clark adored Budapest and settled
here after completing the bridge.
He engineered the tunnel from 1853
to 1857, and the square that faces its
entrance on the Danube side bears
his name. The tunnel itself, 350 m
(1,150 ft) long and 11 m (36 ft) high,
remains unnamed.
Lords’ Street
6
MAP G2 • I, Úri utca
Baroque and Gothic façades give
Lords’ Street (Úri utca) its unique
medieval character, though most
of the houses were rebuilt from
Interior of Mátyás Church 1950 to 1960, after being destroyed
during World War II. The street runs
Mátyás Church
5 the full length of Castle Hill and
Standing on the site of a
its high lights include the Hölbling
13th-century structure, Mátyás House at No. 31, with its sublime
Church was rebuilt and named after Gothic façade, the Telephony
King Mátyás in 1470. Through most Museum at No. 49, and the bizarre
of the Middle Ages, Hungarians were but excep tional Labyrinth (see p53),
not permitted in the church; only whose entrance is at No. 9.
Germans could worship here. It has The real highlight, how ever, is to
witnessed several significant events, walk from one end to the other.
from the marriage of Mátyás to the
Fishermen’s Bastion
coronations of Franz József I and 7
Charles IV. Béla III and his wife are MAP H2 • I, Halászbástya,
also buried here. When the Turks Szentháromság tér • Adm
came to power in the early 1500s, From early morning until late at night,
they converted Mátyás Church into a visitors bypass Mátyás Church and
mosque. According to legend, in 1686 head for the Fishermen’s Bastion,
a statue of the Madonna appeared whose turrets offer the most
before the Turks while they were pictur esque views of Pest. It was
praying. They took this as a sign of built in Neo-Romanesque style by
defeat and surrendered the city of Frigyes Schulek as a monument to
Buda to the Habsburgs. The church the Guild of Fishermen in 1895.
was also the scene of fierce fighting
during World War II, and was not View from the
renovated until 1968 (see pp30–31). Fishermen’s Bastion
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70 ❯❯ Budapest Area by Area The Castle District and North Buda ❮❮ 71
Church of
8 A DAY IN THE CASTLE DISTRICT
St Mary Magdalene
AND NORTH BUDA
MAP G2 • I, Kapisztrán tér 6
Built in the 13th century for the city’s Fortuna utca
Hungarian citizens, who were forbid- Mátyás Duna (Danube)
den from praying at Mátyás Church, St Mary BUS Church
this church now lies in ruins. All that Magdalene
remains is the tower and gate – the Ruszwurm Fishermen's
Bastion
rest of the building was pulled down Café Miro Vár
after World War II. Nevertheless, the Lords’ Street Sándor
Palace Lánchíd
site is enchanting, and the square in utca
which it stands is unusually peaceful.
Funicular
Hungarian National Gallery
MORNING
There’s no better way of getting
up to the castle than by taking
the Funicular (see p49) from
Lánchíd utca. At the top, you can
admire the stately Sándor Palace
(see p69) from the outside, but
you won’t get past the smartly
dressed guards unless you have
business with the president.
Vienna Gate Square On the other side of the palace is
the superb Hungarian National
Vienna Gate Square
9 Gallery (see pp26–9). It would be
easy to spend all day here, but with
MAP G1 • I, Bécsi kapu tér
The gate you see today is, in fact, a careful planning you should be
able to see the highlights within
replica of the original structure, which an hour or so. Then stroll along
once led from Buda towards Vienna. the castle ramparts to Lords’
It was built in 1936 to celebrate the Street (Úri utca), with its charming
250th anniversary of Buda’s liber ation Baroque and Gothic buildings
from the Turks. Quintessential Gothic and end with a relaxing lunch
and Baroque houses line the sides at Café Miró Vár (see p72).
of the square. The huge building on
the square’s left-hand side is the AFTERNOON
Hungarian National Archive, a Neo- Head eastwards to the
Romanesque structure famous for Fishermen’s Bastion and enjoy
its multicoloured roof. fabulous views of the Danube
and Pest on the opposite bank;
Batthyány Square
0 don’t forget your camera. Next
door is the historic Mátyás
MAP H1 • I, Batthyány tér
In the heart of Víziváros, this square Church. You can stock up
on souvenirs at the shops
is named after Count Lajos Batthyány, on Fortuna utca – the Hilton
the prime minister during the Budapest hotel (see p114) has
Hun garian Uprising of 1848–9. a superb souvenir shop – before
Though ma r red by traffic, the following the road to the ruins
square is crammed with architectural of the Church of St Mary
wonders. The Hikisch House at No. 3 Magdalene. From the church,
has bas-reliefs of the four seasons, take the little Castle District
bus back along Lords’ Street to
and St Anne’s Church (see p45) is a Ruszwurm (see p72) for a cake
fine Baroque building. A monument or strudel. If you are lucky, there
to Ferenc Kölcsey, who wrote the will be a concert at Mátyás
words of the national anthem, Church to enjoy as well.
overlooks the square.
See map on p68
068-071_Top_10_Budapest.indd 71 18/10/2016 12:36
72 ❯❯ Budapest Area by Area The Castle District and North Buda ❮❮ 73
Cafés, Pubs and Bars
Faust Wine Cellar
Henri Belga Söröző
1 6
MAP H2 • I, Bem rakpart 12
MAP G2 • 1014, Hess András
• 06 201 50 82 • Open noon–midnight tér 1–3 • 0620 398 88 63 • Open
There are more than 20 types of 2–9pm Thu–Mon
Belgian beers to try at this pub, Escape from the bustling city to
located next to a restaurant of this wine cellar in the Buda Castle
the same name. District. There are wine and pálinka
tastings daily, and wines can be
purchased by the bottle.
Móri Borozó
7
MAP G1 • I, Fiáth János utca 16
• 06 214 92 16 • Open 2–11pm daily
Wine straight from the barrel and
drunk by the glass. There is usually
a good stew cooking as well.
Café Miró Vár
8
MAP G2 • I, Úri utca 30
• 06 201 23 75 • Open 9am–11pm
Oscar American Cocktail Bar A colourful, popular place for coffee
or a light meal. Service can be slow.
Oscar American
2 Café Gusto
Cocktail Bar
MAP B2 • I, Frankel Leó utca 12
MAP G1 • I, Ostrom utca 14 • 0620 9
214 25 25 • Open 5pm–2am Mon– • 06 316 39 70 • Open 10am–10pm
Wed, 5pm–4am Thu–Sat Mon–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat
Visit this sophisticated, cinema- This charming café serves a good
themed bar to try a fantastic range range of Italian coffees, along with
of cocktails, either shaken or stirred. generous salads and platters, and
a selection of wines and spirits.
Angelika
3 Ruszwurm
MAP H1 • I, Batthyány tér 7 •
06 225 16 53 • Open Apr–Oct: 9am– 0
MAP G2 • I, Szentháromság
midnight; Nov–Mar: 9am–11pm utca 7 • 06 375 52 84 • Open
This historic patisserie is in a former 10am–7pm daily
crypt of St Anne’s Church (see p45). Ruszwurm has been serving cakes
With its relaxed atmosphere and and pastries to a loyal clientele since
superb pastries, it is a popular spot. 1824. The strudel is world-famous
and the period furniture priceless.
Korona Kávéház
4
MAP H3 • I, Dísz tér 16 • 06
375 61 39 • Open 10am–6pm
This excellent café is run by the
same people that manage the
Ruszwurm café.
Calgary Antik Drink Bar
5
MAP B2 • II, Frankel Leó utca 24
• 06 316 90 87 • Open 4pm–4am
A cross between an antique shop, bar
and club, the Calgary attracts crowds
long after most places have closed. Nostalgic interior of Ruszwurm
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72 ❯❯ Budapest Area by Area The Castle District and North Buda ❮❮ 73
Restaurants
Csalogány 26
6
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one, with half MAP A3 • I, Csalogány utca 26
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), • 06 201 78 92 • Open noon–3pm &
taxes and extra charges. 7–10pm Tue–Sat • FF
A modern restaurant serving simple
F under Ft5,000 FF Ft5,000–10,000
FFF over Ft10,000 Mediterranean food, mostly grilled
on hot coals.
Kacsa Vendéglő
Hungarian Kitchen/21
1 7
MAP G2 • I, Fortuna utca 21
You’ll need a string of
super latives to describe the duck • 06 202 21 13 • Open 11am–
dishes at this outstanding Buda midnight • FF
restaurant. Service is ostentatious, Here you’ll enjoy a contemporary
with dishes whipped out from twist on Hungarian cuisine, with
under tall silver domes (see p54). lighter ingredients. Dishes are
cooked using fresh market produce.
Baltazár
2 Alabárdos Étterem
MAP G2 • I, Országház
Sensational Hungarian cuisine
utca 31 • 06 300 70 50 • Open 8
7:30am–11:45pm daily • FF cooked the traditional way. The army
Simple yet delicious food. Steaks, of chefs make a real effort to give
burgers, duck and chicken – all of each dish a unique touch. You’ll be
which are locally sourced – at prices well rewarded for splurging on the
that are more than reasonable for pricey menu (see p55).
the location. Grab a table on the
cobbled street outside in summer.
Pavillon de Paris
3
MAP H2 • I, Fő utca 20 • 0620
509 34 30 • Open noon–3pm &
6–10pm Tue–Sat • FF
A lovely restaurant serving authentic
French food, with seafood as the
main speciality. It also has a great
terrace and garden.
Fekete Holló
4
MAP G2 • I, Országház utca 10
• 06 356 23 67 • Open 11am– Chic interior of Arany Kaviár
Arany Kaviár
midnight daily • Dis. access • FF 9
This restaurant has live folk music The era of the Russian tsars
on most evenings. The game dishes is conjured up with caviar, blinis
come highly recommended. and champagne in truly opulent
surroundings (see p54).
Budavári Mátyás
5 Café Pierrot
MAP G2 • I, Hess András tér 4
MAP G2 • I, Fortuna utca 14
• 06 375 61 75 • Open 11am–11pm 0
daily • FFF • 06 375 69 71 • Open 11am–
Locals flock to this beer bar to sit midnight daily • FF
at one of the long tables and drink, Founded as Budapest’s first private
eat and be merry. Join in and feast café-restaurant in 1982, this
on their menu of simple but delicious wonderful little restaurant offers
gastro n omical delights. delicious food with great service.
See map on p68
072-073_Top_10_Budapest.indd 73 18/10/2016 12:36
74 ❯❯ Budapest Area by Area
Gellért and Tabán
Ancient superstitions and medieval mysteries surround the
areas of Gellért and Tabán. It is believed that Gellért Hill,
which rises 140 m (460 ft) on the western bank of the
Danube, was the scene of Bishop Gellért’s death. In 1046,
he was thrown from the top in a sealed barrel by enraged
citizens, for attempting to convert them to Christianity.
The hill was later the site of the Habsburgs’ sinister
Citadel, built to quell revolt and assert control. At the
foot of the hill, the luxurious Gellért Hotel and Baths
are a reminder of a gentler age. For centuries, Tabán
was the city’s most bohemian district, full of bars
and gambling dens. More recently, urban planners
have created parks and residential areas that now
Liberation
Monument command some of the highest prices in the city.
AREA MAP OF GELLÉRT AND TABÁN
ROHAM U. SZT. GYÖRGY
TÉR
KRISZTINA ALAGÚT U. Royal Top 10 Sights
TÉR Palace LÁNCHÍD UTCA see pp75–7
Hungarian D u n a ( D a n u b e ) Restaurants, Bars
PALOTA ÚT
400 NAPHEGY U. AT TI L A Ú T National FRIEDRICH BORN RAKPART and Cafés
metres GELLÉRTHEGY U. Gallery see p79
FENYŐ U. LISZNYAI U. DÓZSA The Best of the Rest
TÉR
NYÁRS U. NAPHEGY FÉM U. KRISZTINA KÖRÚT see p78
TÉR NAPHEGY U.
TIBOR U. DEZSŐ U. TABÁN
NAPHEGY KERESZT U. DÖBRENTEI U. Erzsébet híd
LISZNYAI U.
Elizabeth
DERÉK U. CZAKÓ U. Bridge
PIROSKA U. TIGRIS U. HEGYAL JA ÚT DÖBRENTEI VÁCI U.
ZS OLT U.
ALADÁR U. TÉR BELGRÁD RAKPART
H EG YA L J A ÚT SZIRTES U. SÁNC ÚT OROM U.
MÉSZÁR OS U.
350 BERÉNYI U. U. SZIROM BÉRC U. SZIRTES U. RAOUL WALLENBERG RAKPART
metres Fővám tér
GYULA U. SZÁM A DÓ U. Szabadság híd
Liberty Bridge
XI Gellért Hegy
KELENHEGYI ÚT
Gellért Hill
GELLÉRT Szent Gellért
SOMLÓI ÚT
500 MÉNESI U. IGL ÓI U. PIPACS U. tér
KÉSMÁRKI U . MÉNESI U. SERLEG U. SOMLÓI KÖZ MI N ERVA U. KEMENES U.
metres RE Z E DA U. KELENHEGYI ÚT
SZÜRET U. SOMLÓI ÚT KELENHEGY I ÚT ORLAY U. BARTÓK BÉLA ÚT
KELENHEGYI ÚT
KÖBÖLKÚT U.
ELEK U. TARCALI U. VILLÁN YI ÚT BALOGH T. U. KELENHEGYI M ÁN YO KI ÚT MÉSZÖLY BUDAFOKI ÚT
U.
ÁBEL JENŐ U. BADACSONYI U. B ALOGH T. LEJT Ő XI HIMFY U. ZSIGMOND LÁG BERCSÉNYI U. KENDE U.
MÉNESI U.
MÓRICZ
DIÓSZEGI ÚT
KAROLINA ÚT
U.
0 metres 500 TAS VEZÉR U. Móricz Zsigmond KÖRTÉR BICSKEI YMÁNYOSI U. KRUSPÉR U. SZTOCZEK U.
körtér
0 yards 500
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Size 100mm x 191mm
Gellért and Tabán ❮❮ 75
home was on the other side of the
river, but it was removed by the
Communists in 1947. It wasn’t until
1986 that the statue was reinstated
at its present site.
Golden Stag House
3
MAP J4 • I, Szarvas tér 1
• 06 375 64 51 • Open noon–11pm
daily • www.aranyszarvas.hu
At the foot of Castle Hill lies the
Golden Stag House, named for the
superb bas-relief above its entrance
depicting a golden stag pursued
by two hunting hounds. This 19th-
century house has long been home
to the Aranyszarvas restaurant (see
p79). Unsurprisingly, the eatery
specializes in game dishes and
features venison, hare, pheasant
and wild duck.
Cave Church
4
Gellért Baths’ main pool MAP K6 • I, Szent Gellért
rakpart 1 • 0620 775 24 72 • Open
Gellért Baths
1 8:30am–8pm daily
Built in 1918, these are the
On Easter Monday 1951, the
best known and most luxurious Hun garian secret police arrested
baths in all of Budapest. There is a the Pauline monks at the Cave
sublime main pool, with bal conies, Church, murdering the leader
columns and stained-glass windows, Ferenc Vezér and sentencing the
as well as more traditional thermal others to long prison sentences.
baths. In summer, the open-air The church was then bricked up
swimming pools at the back and forgotten until August 1989.
are popular with chess-playing This remarkable place of worship,
pensioners – many spend all day which is hewn into the Gellért
here. Although the baths are attached hillside, was founded by monks of
to the Gellért Hotel, their entrance the Pauline Order after they visited
is on the side street (see pp20–21). Lourdes, France, in 1926. The revived
order once again presides over the
Queen Elizabeth
2 church, which is closed to the public
Monument
when services are in progress.
MAP J5
Although the wife of the Habsburg
emperor, Franz József, was not
Hungarian by birth, she adored her
adopted subjects and made great
efforts to soften Austrian attitudes
towards Hungary. A number of
streets, bridges and monuments
throughout the nation are named
after her. The monument dedicated
to Elizabeth (Erzsébet) that overlooks
the Danube from the Gellért embank-
ment was designed by György Zala
and erected in 1932. Its original Interior of the Cave Church
074-077_Top_10_Budapest.indd 75 18/10/2016 12:36
76 ❯❯ Budapest Area by Area
BISHOP GELLÉRT
During a pagan revolt in the 11th
century, Bishop Gellért was thrown
off Old Hill in a sealed barrel. To seek
forgiveness from God, the citizens of
Budapest decided to dedicate the hill
to him a century later. Of Italian
descent, the Bishop had, in fact, been
invited to Hungary to help the newly
baptized St Stephen (István) spread
Christianity throughout the region. It
Weaponry at the Citadel was rumoured that Stephen’s brother,
Prince Vata, had a hand in the martyr -
Citadel
5 dom. Today, the Bishop is worshipped
as Budapest’s patron saint.
MAP J–K6
Built to intimidate Budapest’s
citizens after the failed Uprising of
1848–9, the Citadel was never actually Hungarian prosperity”. Originally, a
used for its original purpose – that 6m (20ft) tall sculpture of a Soviet
of preventing new revolts – as the soldier equipped with a machine
Hungarians sought their inde pen d gun, with one of his fists clenched
ence by more peaceful means. and the other holding a flag, stood
Although the country was granted at the foot of the monument, but this
partial independence according to was later removed and relocated to
the Dual Monarchy agreement of Memento Park (see p102).
1867, Austrian forces o ccupied the
Tabán Parish Church
Citadel until 1897. Today, the building 7
itself, including the restau rant and MAP J4 • I, Attila út 11
the hotel onsite, are closed due to a • 06 375 54 91
longlasting legal debate. Its look out This church is all that remains of
points offer great views of the city. Tabán’s old district. Topped by a fine
NeoBaroque tower, it was built from
Liberation Monument
6 1728 to 1736 on the site of an earlier
church that was converted into
MAP K6
One of the most visible a mosque and later destroyed
landmarks in Budapest, this in the battle to overthrow the
imposing cenotaph towers Ottoman Empire. Inside is a copy
above the nearby Citadel. It was of the 12thcentury carving, Christ of
sculpted by Zsigmond Kisfaludi Tabán. The original is in the Budapest
Stróbl and inaugurated in 1947, History Museum (see p69).
to commemorate the liber ation
Gellért Monument
of Budapest by Soviet forces. 8
The inscription on the plinth MAP J5
once paid tribute to the Red According to legend, the city’s
Army, but was changed in 1992 patron saint, Bishop Gellért
and it now honours all those was pushed off the hill that now
who “laid down their lives for bears his name for attempting to
Liberation Monument
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Gellért and Tabán ❮❮ 77
convert Budapest’s citizens to A DAY IN GELLÉRT AND TABÁN
Christianity, including young Prince
Imre, the son of Stephen I (István). TABÁN Miklós Ybl Square
Constructed in 1904, the monument Golden Semmelweis
Museum of Medical
to this Christian martyr is now Stag House History
looking a little the worse for wear, Tabán Parish
although it still retains its original Church
majesty when viewed from afar. It Duna (Danube)
is especially striking at night, when Búsuló Citadel TRAM No. 19
it is superbly lit. The statue and the Juhász
enormous Neo-Classical colonnade Étterem Cave
that flanks it were designed by Gyula Gellért Church
Jankovits and Imre Francsek. GELLÉRT Hill Gellért Eszpresszó,
Gellért Baths
MORNING
Start the day with a coffee and
light breakfast on the corner
terrace of the Gellért Eszpresszó
(see p21) at the Gellért Hotel, then
head around the corner to the
Gellért Baths (see pp20–21).
Try to resist the temptation to
stay all day in the various baths
and swimming pools; a few
hours worth of pampering and
a massage should be sufficient.
View over Miklós Ybl Square
Once refreshed, you’ll be in fine
Miklós Ybl Square
9 form to tackle Gellért Hill (see
p78) and climb up to the Citadel.
MAP J4 • I, Ybl Miklós tér
Arguably Hungary’s greatest architect, After enjoying the views from
its ramparts, break for lunch at
known for gems such as St Stephen’s Búsuló Juhász Étterem (see p79).
Basilica (see pp16–17), Miklós Ybl is
honoured with a commemorative AFTERNOON
statue which stands in a square After lunch, descend south wards
bearing his name. It was designed to the Cave Church (see p75), a
by Ede Mayer and erected here in bizarre place of worship hewn
1894, three years after Ybl died. into the rock of Gellért Hill.
From here, stroll down to Gellért
Tabán
0 Square and travel north along the
embankment in the splendid
MAP H4
There is little left of Tabán’s original tram No. 19 to Miklós Ybl Square.
A short walk west leads you to
character, as its narrow streets on the district of Tabán, where you’ll
the slopes of Gellért Hill were cleared be surrounded by Secession
in 1910 to make way for terraces, buildings. You can wander about
gardens and Secession buildings. the pretty terraces and gardens
It was one of the first inhabited that replaced the earlier slum.
areas of Buda – the Celtic Eravi Next, visit the Tabán Parish
settled it from 1000 BC. The Romans Church just off Attila út, one of
the few surviving buildings from
later built a watchtower here and, Tabán’s old district. To the north
in the 16th century, the Turks built is the fascinating Semmelweis
the Rácz Baths. In the 17th century, Museum of Medical History (see
Tabán was home to Serb refugees, p78). End the day by enjoying a
Greeks and Gypsies. Today, it is a classic Hungarian meal at the
popular venue for summer concerts, Aranyszarvas restaurant in the
while in winter, the hillside is ideal Golden Stag House (see p75).
for tobogganing.
See map on p74
074-077_Top_10_Budapest.indd 77 18/10/2016 12:36
78 ❯❯ Budapest Area by Area
The Best of the Rest
Technical University
Sas Hill Nature Reserve
1 6
MAP N2 • XI, Tájék utca 26
MAP C6 • XI, Műegye tem
• 0630 408 43 70 • Opening times rakpart 3 • 06 463 11 11
vary • Adm Hungary’s largest academic
A small reserve with a visitor centre institution was built in 1904. Its
giving information on the rare plants, alumni include Ernő Rubik, the
insects and reptiles found here, inventor of the Rubik’s Cube.
including the Pannonian lizard. Budapest Congress
Gellért Hill
Center
2 7
MAP J6
MAP A5 • XII, Jagelló út 1–3 • 06 372
The views from Gellért Hill, especially 54 00 • Dis. access • www.bcc.hu
of the terraces below the Citadel, are Established in 1975, this arts complex
among the best in the city. houses the Novotel Budapest Hotel
and con ference rooms. It is best
Semmelweis Museum
3 known for hosting concerts and
of Medical History
major exhibitions.
MAP J4 • I, Apród utca 1–3 • 06 375
Former Swedish
35 33 • Open mid-Mar–Oct: 10:30am– 8
6pm Tue–Sun (to 4pm Nov–mid-Mar) Embassy
• Adm • www.semmelweis.museum.hu MAP K6 • XI, Minerva utca 3
The house of the ground-breaking This building was made famous by
doctor Ignáz Semmelweis (1818–65) Swedish diplomat Raoul Wallenberg,
is now a museum. Exhibits include who saved tens of thousands of
medicines from ancient Egypt to Jews from Nazi death camps.
the present day. A monu ment to him stands nearby.
Virág Benedek Building
Cistercian Church
4 9
of St Imre
MAP J4 • Apród utca 10
MAP B6 • XI, Villányi út 25 • 06 201 70 93 • Open 2–6pm Wed,
• 06 466 58 86 Fri & Sat, 11am–6pm Sun • www.
This Neo-Baroque church was built museum.hu
in 1938. Inside are relics of St Imre, This is the only remnant of the old
patron saint of the Cistercian Order. Tabán area, which was detroyed by
fire in 1810. It houses the Tabán
Liberty Bridge
5 History Museum.
Built between 1894 and 1899
Rudas Baths
by János Feketeházy, this bridge was 0
originally named after Emperor The luxurious Rudas Baths
Franz József (see p49). (see p47), covered with a Turkish-
style dome, are among the oldest in
Liberty Bridge the city, dating from around 1550.
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Gellért and Tabán ❮❮ 79
Restaurants, Bars and Cafés
János Étterem
6
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one, with half MAP A5 • XI, Hegyalja út 23
a bottle of wine (or equiv alent meal), • 06 202 34 14 • Open nooon–
taxes and extra charges. midnight daily • FFF
A surprisingly good eatery in a rather
F under Ft5,000 FF Ft5,000–10,000
FFF over Ft10,000 nondescript hotel. The menu is mainly
made up of Hungarian classics.
Búsuló Juhász Étterem
1
The slopes of Gellért Hill
provide a fabulous location for this
traditional Hungarian restaurant.
It specializes in game dishes and
has a good wine list (see p55).
Marcello
2
MAP C6 • XI, Bartók Béla út 40
• 06 466 62 31 • Open noon–11pm Gellért Eszpresszó
daily • FF
Gellért Hotel
A somewhat spartan pizzeria serving 7
delicious thin and crispy pizzas at This hotel has three places to
remarkably low prices. It’s very eat, each with its own terrace – the
popular, so you’ll need a reservation. Eszpresszó, the Brasserie and the
Panorama. The latter has an all-you-
Aranyszarvas
3 can-eat Sunday brunch (see pp20–21).
MAP J4 • Szarvas tér 1 • 06 375
Hemingway Étterem
64 51 • Open noon–11pm daily • FF 8
This friendly restaurant serves game MAP P2 • XI, Kosztolányi Dezső
specialities, as well as fish and tér 2 • 06 381 05 22 • Open noon–
poultry. The patio opens in summer midnight Mon–Fri, noon–4pm Sat
and has a great view of the city. • Dis. access • FF
Escape the bustle of downtown with
Márványmenyasszony
4 a mojito or a cigar on the terrace at
Étterem
this great seafood restaurant.
MAP A4 • XII, Márvány utca 6 • 0630
Asztalka
625 85 59 • Open noon–midnight 9
daily • Dis. access • FF MAP J4 • I, Döbrentei utca
Secluded and quiet – until 15 • 06 581 33 99 • Open 3–6pm
the traditional folk band Wed–Fri, 1–6pm Sat, Sun • F
starts playing at 9pm – This little café keeps
this is the perfect short hours, but it is always
choice for an authentic busy. The range of cakes
Hungarian meal. changes every day and
there’s a choice of
Szeged
5 gourmet coffees.
Étterem
Café Déryné
MAP C6 • XI, Bartók Béla Cakes in Asztalka 0
út 1 • 06 209 16 68 • MAP G3 • I, Krisztina
Open noon–11pm daily • FF tér 3 • 06 225 14 07 • Timings vary
A Hungarian restaurant next to the • Dis. access • FF
Gellért Hotel. The food is very good, Popular with the locals, this family-
and river-fish dishes are the friendly, French-style bistro is often
speciality of the house. packed for brunch at the weekend.
See map on p74
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80 ❯❯ Budapest Area by Area
Around Parliament
Buda Castle and the Royal Palace may have the benefit
of their location on top of Castle Hill, but the city’s
defining sight remains its splendid Parliament
building. The area around Parliament is redolent
with history and power, with large squares, wide
avenues and Secession architecture – remnants of
the once powerful Austro-Hungarian Empire. Several
of the city’s most important buildings, including
St Stephen’s Basilica and the outstanding Hungarian
State Opera, are located here. The area is also home
to some of Budapest’s finest restaurants, as well
as its most exclusive shops and residences.
Monument to Lajos Kossuth
in Kossuth Lajos Square
AREA MAP AROUND PARLIAMENT
Margit híd
H E G E D Ű
Margaret Bridge TÁTRA U. PANNÓNIA U.
G Y U L A U .
JÁSZAI Top 10 Sights
MARI TÉR SZENT ISTVÁN KÖRÚT KÁDÁR U. VÁ C I Ú T see pp81–3
KATONA
JÓZSEF U.
Restaurants
ID. ANTALL JÒZSEF RAKPART B AL AS SI B Á L I N T U. FAL K MI KSA U. HONVÉD U. MARKÓ U. BIHARI J. U. NYUGATI JÓKAI U. Nyugati SZOBI U.
see p85
Cafés and Pubs
BALATON U.
see p84
TÉR
STOLLÁR B. U.
pályaudvar
SZONDI U.
SZALAY U.
ALKOTMÁNY U. PODMANICZKY U. TERÉZ KÖRÚT CSENGERY U.
VI
EÖTVÖS U.
VAJKAY U.
LIPÓTVÁROS WEINER LEÓ U. ARADI U.
Kossuth F. U. KOZMA BAJCSY-ZSILINSZKY ÚT LOVAG U. JÓKAI U.
HONVÉD U.
Lajos tér BÁTHORY U. TERÉZVÁROS
AULICH U. Ó U. Oktogon
G ARIB ALD I U. HOLD U. VADÁSZ U. DESSEWFFY U. N AGYM E ZŐ U. MOZSÁR U. JÓKAI
TÉR
ZO LTÁ N U. NÁDOR V SZABADSÁG ZICHY JENŐ U.
TÉR
I MRE U. Ó U. TÉR
S T E INDL U. BANK U. LISZT F.
SZÉCHENYI PAULAY EDE U.
U. Arany LÁZÁR U.
ARANY JÁNOS U. J.u. Opera AKÁCFA U.
ANDRÁSSY ÚT
A K A DÉM IA U.
VIGYÁZÓ OK TÓ B ER S A S U. R É VAY U. KIRÁLY U. CSÁNYI U.
I D. ANTA LL J Ò ZS E F R AK PA R T
F. U. SZENT
ISTVÁN Bajcsy-Zs. KIS DIÓFA U.
TÉR út KLAUZÁL
M ÉRLEG U. GYULA U. KAZINCZY U. DOB U. TÉR
ZR ÍNYI U. 6 U.
KÁLDY
EÖTVÖS JÓZSEF ATTILA U.
Széchenyi TÉR ERZSÉBET
lánchíd
Chain Bridge JÓZSEF TÉR 0 metres 500
NÁDOR Deák Ferenc
TÉR
tér 0 yards 500
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Around Parliament ❮❮ 81
Kossuth Lajos Square
1 until 1947, after which it became
the Museum of Ethnography. Like
MAP K1 • V, Kossuth Lajos tér
Still considered the best address in the Parliament, its grand exterior
the city, Budapest’s finest square is and richly ornamented interior
surrounded on all sides by splendid reflect the majesty of the Austro-
buildings. It was developed at the Hungarian Empire. The collection
end of the 19th century, following includes colourful displays of local
the unification of Buda and Pest. The costumes, toys, furnishings and
square is named after Lajos Kossuth, wedding customs. The museum
who led the 1848–9 Uprising against is expected to move to new premises
the Habsburgs and subsequently in late 2017.
became a member of Hungary’s first
democratic government. He was
exiled in 1849 after the Uprising was
suppressed. A monument in front of
the Parliament commemorates the
Uprising. Opposite is another that
pays tribute to Ferenc II Rákóczi,
leader of the 1703 revolt against
Austrian rule. A memorial to Imre
Nagy, prime minister and leader of
the 1956 revolt against the Soviet
Union, also stands nearby.
The Museum of Ethnography
Széchenyi István Square
2 Hungarian Parliament
MAP K3 • V, Széchenyi István tér
This square has had various names: 4
Constructed in 1902 to house
first called Unload ing Square, it was the National Assembly, Hungary’s
renamed Franz József Square to mark Parliament building remains the
the coronation. From 1947 to 2011 city’s primary source of civic pride.
it was named after US president It was designed by Imre Steindl,
Franklin D Roosevelt and it is today a professor at Budapest Technical
named after the founder of the University, who won an open
Academy of Sciences. The square comp et ition held to find an architect
features several fine hotels, including for the building. Inspired by London’s
the Gresham Palace (see p83). Houses of Parliament, this magni f-
icent edifice is filled with paintings,
Museum of Ethnography
3 frescoes and tapestries by renowned
MAP K1 • V, Kossuth Lajos tér
Hungarian artists. The interior can
12 • 06 473 24 00 • Open 10am–6pm only be seen on one of the guided
Tue–Sun • Adm • Dis. access (Szalay tours, which take place
utca entrance) • www.neprajz.hu when Parliament is not
This splendid Neo-Classical building in session (see pp12–15).
on Kossuth Lajos Square was
designed by Alajos Hauszmann. It
was home to the Ministry of Justice
Hungarian Parliament building
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82 ❯❯ Budapest Area by Area
The impressive and colourful nave of St Stephen’s Basilica
St Stephen’s Basilica
5 was also the site of the 1956 protests
Visible from all over the city,
against the Soviet Union. Today, an
the dome of St Stephen’s Basilica eternal flame at the corner of Aulich
is exactly the same height as the utca and Hold utca pays tribute to
Parliament’s own dome. The church Batthyány, while the statue on the
was built on the site of the Prank northern side honours Soviet troops
Theatre, where bears and wolves who liberated the city in 1944–5.
tore each other to shreds in front
Hungarian State Opera
of crowds in the 18th century. Today, 8
it is one of the city’s most sacred This stunning building is one
sites, as it houses the mummified of Europe’s finest concert halls, and
right hand of St Stephen (István) the best way to see it is by attending
(see pp16–17). a performance. World-class operas
and ballets are performed almost
Academy of Sciences
6 every evening, and tickets are very
MAP K2 • V, Széchenyi István
reasonably priced (see pp32–3).
tér 9 • 06 411 64 89 • Open 11am–
4pm Mon & Fri
Inaugurated in 1864, the Academy
of Sciences is a classic piece of Neo-
Renaissance architecture designed
by Friedrich Stüler. The statues on
the façade, including those of Isaac
Newton and René Descartes, are by
Miklós Izsó and Emil Wolff, while the
interior features more statues by Izsó.
Liberty Square
7
MAP K2 • V, Szabadság tér
Laid out in 1886 on the site of the
barracks that housed the Austrian
army, Liberty Square has long been
synonymous with Hungary’s freedom
struggle. The first prime minister of
independent Hungary, Count Lajos
Batthyány, was executed in the
barracks on 6 Oct 1849. The square Hungarian State Opera auditorium
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Around Parliament ❮❮ 83
SIR THOMAS GRESHAM A DAY AROUND PARLIAMENT
Although one of the city’s finest Hungarian
buildings bears his name, Sir Thomas Parliament Kossuth Lajos
Gresham (below) never set foot Square
in Budapest. Gresham Palace was
commissioned over 300 years after Szamos Today Becketts
his death by the insurance company Hungarian Abszint
he had established. The principal State Opera
figure in the founding of the London Széchenyi
István
Royal Exchange, Gresham is best Square Zrinyi
utca
remembered for the maxim he made St Stephen's
famous: “bad money drives out good”. Basilica
Chain Four Seasons Hotel
Bridge Gresham Palace
MORNING
Start with a sandwich or one
of the excellent sweets at the
Szamos Today café (Kossuth
Lajos tér 10; 06 269 02 16;
open 7:30am–7pm daily)
next to the Kossuth Lajos
tér metro station. Follow this
with a leisurely stroll, crossing
Gresham Palace
9 Kossuth Lajos Square (see p81)
to the sensational Hungarian
MAP K3 • V, Széchenyi István
tér 5–7 • 06 268 60 00 • Open Parliament (see pp12–15). Here
24 hours daily • Dis. access you can join one of several guided
• www.fourseasons.com/budapest tours, which are the only way
to see the building. After this,
Designed by Zsigmond Quittner and walk along the scenic Danube
the brothers József and László Vágó embankment to Széchenyi István
in 1907, Gresham Palace enjoys one Square at the head of the Chain
of Budapest’s best locations opposite Bridge (see p49). You can end
the Chain Bridge. It is an imposing with a light lunch on the terrace
edifice with several Secessionist of the Four Seasons Hotel
features, from stained-glass windows Gresham Palace.
(including one featuring a portrait of
the patriot Lajos Kossuth), to its high AFTERNOON
atrium and chandelier. Today it houses Walk along Zrinyi utca, one of
a Four Seasons hotel (see p116). Budapest’s foremost residential
streets, famous for its smart
Operetta Theatre
0 Secessionist-style apartment
buildings, to the magnificent
MAP M2 • VI, Nagymező utca
17 • 06 472 20 30 • by appointment St Stephen’s Basilica (see pp16–
17) on St Stephen’s Square. Climb
only • www.operettszinhaz.hu the steps to the top of the church’s
Operettas (one-act or light operas) dome for splendid views of the
have been performed here since city. Then head to the Hungarian
1898, when the building opened State Opera (see pp32–3), timing
as the Orfeum Theatre. Designed your arrival to coincide with one
by Viennese architects Fellner of the daily guided tours at 3pm
and Helmer, it was modified and and 4pm. Eat an early dinner at
renamed the Operetta Theatre in the popular Klassz (see p85) and
then prepare for a night at the
1923, as it provided a home for Opera (make sure you reserve
the thriving operetta scene. It was tickets in advance). Afterwards,
further renovated in 1999–2001, a drink at nearby Boutiq’Bar (see
but the interior remained faithful p84) will round off a splendid day.
to the original design.
See map on p80
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84 ❯❯ Budapest Area by Area
Cafés and Pubs
Ötkert
1 square-shaped handmade
doughnuts in 25 flavours, plus
This self-consciously hip
designer bar is modelled on the sandwiches and coffee.
ruined-garden bars typical of
Vakegér Tőzsdekocsma
the seventh district (see p56). 5
MAP M2 • VI, Paulay Ede utca 2
• 06 266 02 70 • Open 6pm–2am daily
At the “Blind Mouse Stock Exchange
Pub”, prices rise and fall depending
on how often a particular drink is
bought. Watch out for a market
crash, when all prices plummet!
La Delizia
6
MAP M1 • Jókai utca 13
• Open 10am–8pm Mon–Sat
This small shop and café sells a
wide range of handmade cookies and
healthy, sugar-, lactose- and gluten-
free desserts.
Boutiq’Bar
7
Boutiq’Bar gets very busy after
9pm. The cocktails are excellent and
the bartenders polished (see p57).
Tóth Kocsma
8
This is very much a quint essen-
tial Budapest pub. Places like this
Courtyard at trendy Ötkert used to be ubiquitous, but most have
been squeezed out of the city centre
Európa Kávéház
2 by trendier venues. A must if you want
a pint or a palinka with the locals. Try
MAP C2 • Szent István Krt 7–9
• 06 312 23 62 • Open 7am–8pm daily the elderflower cider (see p56).
Classic café serving pastries, cakes
Blue Tomato
and perhaps the city’s best selection 9
of hot chocolate: there are at least The interesting menu of
eight different kinds. modern Hungarian dishes is the
main draw at this pub. A cosy
Desszert.Neked
3 ambience is created with vintage
Americana posters on the wooden
MAP M2 • Paulay Ede utca 17
• 0620 253 15 19 • Open 11am–9pm walls (see p56).
Mon–Fri, 10am–9pm Sat, Sun
Tokaji Borozó
This café offers new-wave French and 0
Hungarian pastries. Many of the best- MAP C3 • V, Falk Miksa utca
known local cakes get a modern twist. 32 • 06 269 31 43 • Open noon–9pm
Mon–Fri
The Box Donut
4 This Hungarian wine bar is
dedicated to the famed sweet
MAP L1 • Teréz körút 62
• Open 7:42am–8:08pm Mon–Sat, dessert wines that are sold under
9:42am–8:08 pm Sun the Tokaji name. Most patrons tend
This place shows you how to to enjoy a glass standing at the bar
straighten a circle: they serve in traditional style.
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Around Parliament ❮❮ 85
Restaurants
star. Enjoy the haute cuisine without
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one, with half spending a fortune by selecting one
a bottle of wine (or equiv alent meal), of the set menus (see p54).
taxes and extra charges.
Sir Lancelot
F under Ft5,000 FF Ft5,000–10,000 7
FFF over Ft10,000 MAP C3 • VI, Podmaniczky
utca 14 • 06 302 44 56 • Open noon–
1am • FF
Klassz
1 This themed restaurant serves huge
portions of medieval dishes, from
MAP M2 • VI, Andrássy út 41
• Open 11:30am–11pm daily • FF marrow bones and pork knuckles
A modern bistro offering international to whole geese and chickens.
dishes, made using local ingredients,
Kollázs
and excellent wines. No reservations. 8
In the gorgeous Gresham
Iguana
2 Palace (see p83) you can dine on
clever, inventive dishes or enjoy the
MAP K2 • V, Zoltán utca 16
• 06 331 43 52 • Open 11:30– simpler delights. Dishes include
12:30am daily • Dis. access • FF snacks such as goose crackling and
Great Tex-Mex fare in a lively setting. beef confit burgers, and refined mains
Fajitas, tortillas and burritos come in like salt-baked sea bass (see p55).
large portions at reasonable prices.
Ape Regina Restaurant
3
& Bar
MAP L1 • Podmaniczky utca 18
• 0630 779 75 45 • Open noon–
midnight daily • FF
Ape Regina is an all-you-can-eat
Italian restaurant. Some drinks are
also included in the fixed price.
Stradivari Restaurant
4
MAP L3 • Hercegprímás utca 5
• 0630 438 88 24 • FFF Elegant interior of Kollázs
Marquis de Salade
This stylish restaurant in the Aria 9
hotel offers bistro-style dining. MAP L2 • VI, Hajós utca 43 • 06
Afterwards, enjoy drinks at the High 302 40 86 • Open noon–1am daily • FF
Note SkyBar on the top floor while This popular bistro serves a range
taking in the splendid city panorama. of dishes from the countries of the
former Soviet Union, especially
Imázs Restaurant
5 Azerbaijan, and includes a good
vegetarian selection.
MAP L2 • 1065, Hajós utca
16–18 • 06 269 32 63 • Open daily
Café Kör
• Dis. access • FF 0
Located in the heart of Budapest, MAP L3 • V, Sas utca 17 • 06
this restaurant serves great Thai 311 00 53 • Open 10am–10pm Mon–
and Japanese cuisine. Sat • FF
This eatery is legendary among the
Onyx Restaurant
6 expat community, who flock here
Szabina Szullo, the executive
for light meals, good drinks and
chef at this restaurant, is the first great atmosphere. Note that credit
Hungarian chef to win a Michelin cards are not accepted.
See map on p80
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Size 100mm x 191mm
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88 ❯❯ Budapest Area by Area
Central Pest
Most visitors to Budapest head straight for this area, known as
Belváros or the Inner City. It is the city’s commercial hub, and
is filled with fine buildings, shops and
cafés. The area lay in ruins at the end of the
17th century, and was only redeveloped in
the 19th century when many of Pest’s most
important buildings were built, including
the Hungarian National Museum. Today,
many of the streets and squares are entirely
pedestrianized, making it an ideal place for
walking, shopping and dining outdoors. In fact,
during the summer, the southern end of Váci
utca becomes a never-ending melee of cafés
Artifact in the
and pubs, with revellers drinking on the Hungarian National
pave ments from dawn to dusk. Museum
AREA MAP OF CENTRAL PEST
KLAUZÁL 0 metres 200
MÉRLEG U. Bajcsy- KAZINCZY U. TÉR 0 yards 200
Zs. út
JÓZSEF ATTILA U. K I R Á LY U. HOLLÓ U.
ERZSÉBET TÉR DOB U. ERZSÉBETVÁROS
JÓZSEF
NÁDOR Deák ANKER MADÁCH U. NAGY DIÓFA U. AKÁCFA U.
OKTÓBER 6 U.
TÉR Ferenc tér K.
H AR MI N C A D U. ASBÓTH U. NYÁR U. KLAUZÁL U.
Vörösmarty RUMBACH S. U. WESSELÉNYI U.
tér KAZINCZY U.
DO ROT T YA U.
V I G AD Ó U. DEÁK FERENC U. FEHÉR H. U. BÁRCZY I. U. MADÁCH DOB U. SÍP U. DOHÁNY U.
APÁCZ A I U.
TÉR
KÁROLY KÖRÚT
TÜRR U. SZERVITA VÁROSHÁZ U. GERLÓCZY U. SEMMELWEIS U. R ÁKÓ C Z I ÚT VAS U. GYULAI PÁL U. STÁHLY U.
TÉR
VÁRMEGYE
RÉGIPOSTA U. VÁC I U PETŐFI S. U. Ferenciek KOSSUTH Astoria SZENTKIRÁLYI U.
U.
APÁCZAI U.
LAJOS U.
KŐFARGÓ U.
PESTI B. U. . HARIS KÖZ KÍGYÓ U. tere REÁLTANODA U. KÖRÚT PUSKIN U. BRÓDY SÁNDOR U.
VAS U.
SZABAD SAJTÓ ÚT DUNA U. KÚRIA U. FERENCZY I. U.
MÚZEUM
JANE HANING RAKPART
Erzsébet híd KÁROLYI U. Károlyi MAGYAR U. HORÁNSZKY U. MÁRIA U.
Elizabeth CUKOR U. kert
Bridge IRÁNYI U. SZENTKI
BELVÁROS PAPNÖVELDE U.
KRÚDY U.
Kálvin
tér MÚZEUM U. RÁLYI U.
KECSKEMÉTI U.
KÁLVIN
VÁC I U.
MOLNÁR U.
TÉR BAROSS U.
SZERB U. KIRÁLYI PÁL U.
VERES PÁLNÉ U.
FEJÉR G. U.
HAVAS U. FŐVÁM TÖRÖK ÜLLŐI MÁRIA U.
P. U.
BELGRÁD RAKPART
GELLÉRT Fővám TÉR VÁMHÁZ KÖRÚT ERKEL U. ÚT
D u n a ( D a n u b e )
tér PIPA U. GÖNCZY U.
MARKUSOVSZKY
Top 10 Sights SÓHÁZ U. ER KEL U. KÖZTELEK TÉR
see pp89–91 IMRE U. LÓNYAY U. MÁTYÁS U. U.
Restaurants Szabadság híd HŐGYES E. U.
Liberty Bridge
see p93 CSARNOK CZUCZOR K INI Z S I U. 400
TÉR
Cafés and Pubs U. KNÉZICH U. metres
R ÁDAY U.
see p92 KÖZRAKTÁR UTCA FERENC KÖRÚT
ZSIL U. BAKÁTS
TÉR
Previous pages The Fishermen’s Bastion
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Central Pest ❮❮ 89
Vigadó Square
1 demolish it to make way for the
Elizabeth Bridge. Luckily, it was
MAP K4 • V, Vigadó tér
Facing the Danube, Vigadó Square saved at the last minute, but the
is one of Budapest’s quietest spots. proximity of the approach road to its
It is dominated by the Vigadó Concert walls shows what a close call it was.
Hall, under whose sublime colon nades
visitors seek shade during hot
summer afternoons. Built between
1859 and 1864 and designed by
Frigyes Feszl, it replaced an earlier
hall that was destroyed during the
1848–9 Uprising. The façade is
a wonder of arched windows,
statues and busts. In the centre
is a Hungarian coat of arms. Badly
damaged in World War II, restoration
efforts have faithfully returned the
building to its former glory. Facing
the Hall is the Modernist Bud apest
Marriott Hotel (see p116), built in
1969. The jetties on the square’s Pedestrianized Váci utca
emba nkment are the depa rture
Váci utca
point for Danube river cruises. 3
One of Pest’s oldest streets,
Inner City Parish Church
2 Váci utca originally led to the town
of Vác (see p65). It has long been
MAP K4 • V, Március 15 tér 2
• 06 318 31 08 • Open 9am–7pm daily synonymous with traders and
Pest’s oldest church has a long swindlers, who clustered around Vác
and troubled history. The original Gate at Váci utca 3. As Pest prospered,
Roman-style structure was so did the street, and it soon became
decimated by the Tartars, and a fav ourite among Budapest’s wealthy
its 14th-century replacement was citizens. The goods stores gave way
converted into a mosque by the to exclusive boutiques, and today
Turks. It was nearly it is one of the city’s most popu lar
destroyed again after shopping venues. The northern
World War II, when half is dominated by retail outlets
builders wanted to and department stores. The
pedestrianized southern end of Váci
utca is home to some of the area’s
best cafés and clubs (see pp18–19).
Vörösmarty Square
4
MAP K3 • V, Vörösmarty tér
This splendid pedestrian plaza
is named after the poet Mihály
Vörösmarty, whose statue stands
at its centre. Designed by Ede
Telcs and built in Carrara marble,
the statue rallies the nation in the
poet’s own words: “Your homeland,
Hungary, serve unwaveringly”.
The square’s northern side is
dominated by Gerbeaud Cukrászda
(see pp18 & 57), Hungary’s most
famous coffee house. It is also worth
Façade of the Inner City Parish Church visiting the quaint metro station.
088-091_Top_10_Budapest.indd 89 18/10/2016 12:36
90 ❯❯ Budapest Area by Area
was designed by Ödön Lechner and
JEWISH QUARTER Gyula Pártos. Its distinctly Eastern
Budapest’s Jewish quarter is based style is seen in the green domes
immediately north of Károly körút. and the glass-roofed courtyard.
The community thrived until 1941, It features fine arts, crafts and
when anti-Semitic laws were passed traditional costumes.
by the government of Admiral Horthy.
In 1944 much of the area was a ghetto,
and thousands were deported to death
camps. Today the community is once
again growing, with synagogues, shops
and kosher restaurants.
Mihály Pollack Square
5
MAP D5 • V, Pollack Mihály tér
Named after the architect of several
Neo-Classical buildings including
the National Museum, this square
is famous for its three palaces, Hungarian National Museum
built for Hungary’s wealthiest
Hungarian National
aristocrats – Count Károlyi at No. 6, 7
Prince Eszterházy at No. 8 and Prince Museum
Festetics at No. 10. The superb The National Museum was founded
façades of the palaces (of which only in 1802, and owes its existence to
the Festetics Palace is open to the Count Ferenc Széchényi (see p35),
public), make the square one of the who donated his collections of books
most picturesque in the city. and art to the nation. The building
was designed by Mihály Pollack and
Museum of Applied Arts
6 completed in 1845. In 1848, it was
the scene of a historic event, when
MAP D5 • IX, Üllői út 33–7
• 06 456 51 07 • Open 10am–6pm Sándor Petőfi recited his poem
Tue–Sun • Dis. access • Adm Nemzeti Dal (National Song) from
• www.imm.hu the steps, thus igniting the Uprising
The opening of this museum was the of 1848–9. The event is re-enacted
finale of the city’s 1896 each year. The museum is the richest
Millennium celebrations. source of art and artifacts anywhere
Created to house the in the country (see pp34–5).
Hungarian State’s
Corvinus University
sizeable collection 8
of art, the exquisite of Budapest
Secessionist building MAP L6 • V, Fővám tér 8 • 06 482 50 00
A Neo-Renaissance masterpiece,
Dome of the Museum this university was built between
of Applied Arts 1871 and 1874 to house the city’s
main customs house. Designed by
Miklós Ybl, its Danube façade is set
on three levels – a colonnade sup-
porting a balcony, with two rows of
arched windows facing the river. The
balustrade supports 10 allegorical
figures sculpted by August Sommer.
The building became the University
of Economics in 1951, when it was
named after Karl Marx; a statue of
Marx still stands in the building. In
2000, it was given its current name.
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Central Pest ❮❮ 91
Páva Street Synagogue
9 A DAY IN DOWNTOWN BUDAPEST
and the Holocaust
Memorial Centre Kazinczy utca
JEWISH
MAP E6 • IX, Pava utca 39 • 06 455 QUARTER
33 33 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun Vigadó Rumbach S Carmel
utca
Pince
• Dis. access • Adm • www.hdke.hu Square Váci utca
Jewish
Restored and extended between 2002 Museum
and 2005 to include the Holocaust Goda
Memorial Centre, Páva Street Budapest Café Vu Great
Synagogue
Marriott
Synagogue was originally built Hotel
in the 1920s, only to be closed by Duna
the then increasingly anti-Semitic (Danube)
Hungarian authorities in 1941. The Inner City Parish Church
moving memorial centre includes MORNING
a number of exhibitions as well as a
striking glass Wall of Remembrance A leisurely cup of coffee on
on which it is hoped that the name the terrace of the Modernist
of every Hungarian victim of the Budapest Marriott Hotel (see
Holocaust (there were over 600,000) p116) on Vigadó Square will set
the tone for the day. Then walk
will be one day be engraved. There a short distance east to Váci utca
are currently around 175,000 names. (see pp18–19), with its superb
retail stores on the northern
side, including souvenir stalls,
clothes chains and high-end
fashion brands. Next, visit
Pest’s oldest church, the Inner
City Parish Church (see p89)
just off Szabad Sajtó út, before
stopping to enjoy a light lunch
at Café Vu in Mercure Budapest
City Center.
AFTERNOON
After lunch, either take the metro
from Ferenciek tere up to Astoria
or walk ten minutes along the
busy Kossuth Lajos utca to the
Great Synagogue on Dohány
The Tree of Life, a Holocaust memorial utca. You can visit the splendid
outside the Great Synagogue Byzantine-inspired synagogue
and its excellent Jewish Museum
Great Synagogue
0 (see p42) before paying your
respects to the Jews killed in the
Built in Byzantine style by
Viennese architect Ludwig Förster Holocaust at the sobering Tree
of Life memorial in the Raoul
in 1854–9, the largest synagogue in Wallenberg Memorial Park,
Europe can hold over 3,000 people located in the courtyard at the
(see pp36–7). It is home to the Jewish back of the synagogue. Then set
Museum (see p42), which chronicles about exploring the rest of the
fascinating Jewish Quarter,
the long history of the city’s Jews. which is known for its little gift
At the rear of the Synagogue is the shops and quaint book stores, as
Raoul Wallenberg Memorial Park, well as the far less ostentatious
which features the Tree of Life, a synagogues on Rumbach S utca
Holocaust memorial. Designed by and Kazinczy utca. End your day
Imre Varga, each leaf of this silver with a delicious glatt-kosher
weeping willow tree bears the name dinner at the Carmel Pince
of one of the 600,000 Hungarian restaurant (Kazinczy utca 31).
Jews killed during the Holocaust.
See map on p88
088-091_Top_10_Budapest.indd 91 18/10/2016 12:36
92 ❯❯ Budapest Area by Area
Cafés and Pubs
Blue Lagoon Tiki Bar
Café Astoria
1 6
MAP M5 • V, Szerb utca 17
MAP M4 • V, Kossuth Lajos
utca 19–21 • 06 889 60 22 • Open • 0670 594 33 55 • Open 4pm–
7am–11pm daily • Dis. access midnight daily (to 1am Fri)
An elegant café in the Hotel Astoria Possibly Budapest’s cheapest cocktail
that manages to turn a cup of coffee bar. The Hawaiian kitsch-fest decor
into an event. is unashamedly over-the-top, but the
locals and visitors who pack the place
out wouldn’t have it any other way.
Szimpla Kert
7
In a refurbished apartment
block, Szimpla Kert is the biggest
ruined-garden bar in the seventh
district. It’s also one of the most
popular pubs in town, with frequent
concerts (see p56).
Centrál Kávéház
8
MAP L4 • V, Károlyi Mihály
utca 9 • 06 266 21 10 • Dis. access
Opulent interior of Café Astoria On the site of an 1880s coffee shop,
Centrál Kávéház is a local fav ourite.
Gerbeaud Cukrászda
2 Paris, Texas
Beautifully decorated cakes
complement the interior of the city’s 9
MAP D5 • IX, Ráday utca 22
most famous café (see p57). • 06 218 05 70 • Open noon–3am
A late-night hotspot of the city’s
Spíler BistroPub
3 trendy set, who like to stop for a
MAP M3 • Király utca 13,
nightcap on their way home. The
Gozsdu udvar • 06 878 13 09 Texan link is reinforced by the large
Actually comprises two venues in the range of malt whiskies on offer.
Gozsdu Courtyard – Spíler Classic is
Doblo
a gastropub mixing modern design 0
with retro elements of Socialist Fine wines from all over the
Hungary, while Spíler Shanghai is world can be sampled at this elegant
more like a secret club in Chinatown. little bar. The emphasis is naturally
on local wines, but you can select
1000 Tea
4 from an extensive international list.
The knowledgeable staff are happy
MAP L5 • V, Váci utca 65 • 06
337 82 17 • Open noon–9pm Mon–Sat to make suggestions (see p56).
This café serves a range of teas.
With soothing music, it is the perfect
place to while away an afternoon.
Kőleves (Stonesoup)
5
MAP M3 • VII, Kazinczy utca
37–41 • 06 322 10 11 • Open 11am–
midnight
Hearty and healthy fare is served
at this reasonably priced restaurant
with a citywide reputation. Wash it all
down with one of their house wines. Customers enjoy fine wines at Doblo
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Size 100mm x 191mm
Central Pest ❮❮ 93
Restaurants
Cyrano
6
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one, with half MAP K4 • V, Kristóf tér 7–8
a bottle of wine (or equiv alent meal), • 06 226 47 47 • Open 8am–midnight
taxes and extra charges. daily • Dis. access • FFF
Said to serve the best goulash soup in
F under Ft5,000 FF Ft5,000–10,000
FFF over Ft10,000 town, luxurious Cyrano is renowned
for its consistently high standards.
Kárpátia Étterem és
Apostolok
1 7
Söröző
MAP L4 • V, Kígyó utca 4–6
• 06 269 95 66 • FFF MAP L4 • V, Ferenciek tere 7–8 • 06 317
This restaurant in the heart of the 35 96 • Open 11am–11pm daily • Dis.
city opened as a pub in 1902. It offers access • FFF
excellent food showcasing traditional Classic dishes in historic surroundings
Hungarian flavours. at one of the city’s top restaurants.
Kádár Étkezde
2
MAP D4 • VII, Klauzál tér 9
• 06 321 36 22 • Open 11:30am–
3:30pm Tue–Sat • No credit cards • F
This non-kosher Hungarian Jewish
eatery in the seventh district is an
authentic neighbourhood treasure.
Costes
3
White-gloved waiters glide
from table to table at this chic,
Michelin-starred restaurant that’s Galleried interior at Borbíróság
at the forefront of Budapest’s
Borbíróság
con temporary fine-dining scene. It’s 8
not for the budget-conscious, though MAP M6 • IX, Csarnoktér 5
the lunch menu is cheaper (see p54). • 06 219 09 02 • Open noon–
11:30pm Mon–Sat • FF
Baraka
4 The “law courts of wine” venue has a
Contemporary in both design
legal theme and a vast array of mainly
and cuisine Baraka offers several Hungarian wines on offer.
well-priced tasting menus (up to
Múzeum Kávé ház
seven courses), which allows you to 9
fully experience the flavours coming és Étterem
out of the kitchen. The accompanying MAP M4 • VIII, Múzeum körút 12
wine list is outstanding (see p54). • 06 338 42 21 • Open 6pm–
midnight Mon–Sat • Dis. access • FFF
Comme Chez Soi
5 This 1855 former coffee house is next
to the National Museum and serves
Fine Italian cuisine makes up
the menu at this charming little delicious Hungarian spe cialities.
place. All food is prepared in an open
Babel
kitchen behind the bar, so diners can 0
see their meals taking shape. It’s not MAP L4 • V, Piarista köz 2
cheap, and you will need to reserve • 0670 600 08 00 • Open 6pm–
a table a day or two in advance, midnight Tue–Sat • Dis. access • FFF
but its worth both the cost and the At the foot of the Elizabeth Bridge,
wait. A really fantastic culinary this bistro/delicatessen offers fresh
experience (see p54). ingredients and attentive service.
See map on p88
092-093_Top_10_Budapest.indd 93 18/10/2016 12:36
94 ❯❯ Budapest Area by Area
Around Városliget
Home to some of the finest buildings and widest boulevards in the
city, the area around Városliget (City Park) is where the citizens of
Budapest have long come to play. Everything is built on a gloriously
grand scale, from the cafés and bistros of Liszt Ferenc tér to the
mansions of Andrássy út and Városligeti fasor, and even
the City Park itself – fronted by the magnificent
Millennium Monument.
Városliget was chosen as
the centre of the city’s 1896
Millennium Celebrations
(see p96), and among the
many splendid buildings
constructed especially
for the event were the
Museum of Fine Arts
Detail of the Millennium Monument and Vajdahunyad Castle.
AREA MAP AROUND VÁROSLIGET
0 metres 500
XIII
U. SZABOLCS U. Holnemvolt
TAKSONY
0 yards 500 VÁGÁNY U. Park
VÁCI ÚT TÜZÉR U. LŐPORTÁR DÓZSA GYÖ R GY Ú T ÁLL ATKERTI KRT
LEHEL U.
Lehel DÉVAI U. U. Nagytó Széchenyi
tér SZABOLCS U. fürdő HERMINA ÚT
LEHEL BULCSÚ U. KÓS KÁROLY SÉTÁNY
TÉR VÁROSLIGETI KRT
CSANÁDY
U. RIPPL-RÓNAI U. PAÁL LÁSZLÓ ÚT
VÁCI ÚT FE RDINÁ ND HÍD SZONDI U. LENDVAY U. Hősök Városliget
tere
utca ANDRÁSSY ÚT
ZICHY
pályaudvar PODMANICZKY U. SZÍV U. SZINYEI MERSE U. VI ARADI U. Bajza DÉLIBÁB U. RÓNAI U. OLOF PALME SÉTÁ NY MIHÁLY ÚT
MUNKÁCSY MIHÁLY U.
RIPPL-
BAJZA U.
DVORÁK SÉTÁNY
BENCZÚR U.
BAJNOK U.
SZÉKELY BERTALAN U.
Nyugati
RÓZSA U.
KODÁLY
KÖRÖND VÁROSLIGETI FASOR D ÓZ S A G YÖ RGY
TERÉZVÁROS
Kodály Körönd
SZOBI U. SZONDI U. Vörösmarty SZÍV FELSŐ B A JZ A U.
IZABELLA U.
VÖRÖSMARTY U.
utca SZALMÁS ERDŐSOR DAM J A N I C H U.
ARADI U. LÖVÖLDE HERNÁD U. ISTVÁNMEZŐ
VI EÖTVÖS U. P. U. PETERDY U. ÚT
CSENGERY U.
U.
TERÉZ KÖRÚT
HUNYADI TÉR DEMBINSZKY U.
JÓKAI U.
TÉR SZÓFIA U. GÁBOR U. NEFELEJCS U. MAREK JÓZSEF U.
Ó U. MOZSÁR U. Oktogon CSENGERY U. KIRÁLY U. IZABELLA U. R ISTVÁN ÚT CSERHÁT U.
BETHLEN
RÓZSA U.
Opera ANDRÁSSY ÚT U. HÁRSFA U. VÖRÖSMARTY U. HEVESI S. RÓZSA U. Top 10 Sights
EÖTVÖS
TÉR
NAGYMEZŐ U.
DOB U.
DOB U. OT T E N B I L L E R U.
PAULAY EDE U. KIRÁLY U. AKÁCFA U. WE S SE LÉNYI U. IZABELLA U. see pp95–7
Restaurants
see p99
ERZSÉBETVÁROS
KLAUZÁL BARCSAY U. DOH Á NY U. ALSÓ U. Cafés and Pubs
see p98
ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT
TÉR
DOB U. KIS DIÓFA U. KERTÉSZ U. SZÖVETSÉG U.
SZÉKELY M. U.
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Around Városliget ❮❮ 95
Museum of Fine Arts
1 building is currently empty, but there
are plans to turn it into a luxury hotel.
MAP E2 • XIV, Hősök tere, Dózsa
György út 41 • 06 469 71 00 • Closed The House of Terror Museum (see
for renovation until 2018 • Dis. access p97) is further down the street, at
• www.szepmuveszeti.hu No. 60. Under Andrássy út runs the
Hungary’s largest collection of Metro 1, Hungary’s oldest and the
international art is housed in a 1906 world’s second-oldest underground
building designed by Fülöp Herzog railway. It was declared a UNESCO
and Albert Schikendanz. It has works World Heritage Site in 2002.
by Raphael, Goya and Velázquez, and
Városligeti Avenue
the largest collection of El Grecos 4
outside Spain. It shares its collection MAP E3
with the National Gallery (see pp26–7). This serene tree-lined avenue is
the gentle counterpart to the more
commercial Andrássy út. Numerous
embassies line the avenue, and there
are two significant churches
in the street: a Calvinist one at the
southern end and a Lutheran one
towards Városliget.
Heroes’ Square
5
MAP E2 • Hősök tere
Heroes’ Square was laid out during
the 1890s and was the focal point of
Outdoor pools, Széchenyi Baths Hungary’s Millennium Celebrations
in 1896 (held to mark 1,000 years
Széchenyi Baths
2 since the Magyar conquest of the
MAP F2 • XIV, Állatkerti út 11
Carpathian Basin). At its heart is the
• 06 363 32 10 • Open May–Sep: 36-m (110-ft) Millennium Monument,
6am–10pm daily (steam and flanked by two colonnades. The
thermal baths close at 7pm) riders on horseback at the foot of
• Adm • www.budapestspas.hu the monument represent the seven
Opened in 1913, Széchenyi is a vast chieftains of the seven Magyar tribes
complex of indoor and outpoor pools, that settled in Hungary.
which include Hungary’s deepest and
hottest thermal baths. Immensely
popular all year round, this is where
people come to find the classic
Hungarian bathing experience.
Andrássy Street
3
MAP L2, M2
A long, wide boulevard from Városliget
to the city centre, Andrássy út is
Budapest’s most exclusive address.
It is lined with restaurants, theatres
and shops, as well as the State
Opera (see pp32–3). At No. 22
is the Drechsler Palace, built by
the Hungarian Railways as rental
apartments for its pension fund
in 1883, before being used later as
the Hungarian Ballet Academy. The
Millennium Monument
094-097_Top_10_Budapest.indd 95 18/10/2016 12:36
96 ❯❯ Budapest Area by Area
THE MILLENNIUM EXHIBITION
Much of Városliget, including the
monument that marks its entrance,
was built for the 1896 Millennium
Exhibition, which celebrated 1,000
years since Árpád inhabited the area
near Budapest. Besides the monuments
around Városliget, the exhibition
saw the opening of the millennium
metro line – Continental Europe’s
first – the installation of the city’s
first gas lights, and the construction
Pianos in the Franz Liszt Museum of an enormous number of
Secessionist buildings.
Franz Liszt Museum
6
MAP D3 • VI, Vörösmarty utca
35 • 06 322 98 04 • Open 10am–6pm the entire evolution of Hungarian
Mon–Fri, 9am–5pm Sat • Adm architecture in a single construction.
• www.lisztmuseum.hu To achieve this, each section reflects
More famously known to the world an important edifice and, all in all,
by his Germanic name of Franz, the castle represents more than
Ferenc Liszt was Hungary’s greatest 20 famous Hungarian buildings.
composer. He lived here from 1881 The Museum of Agriculture in the
until his death in 1886. The house Baroque section is the only part of
became a museum in 1986 and the the castle that is open to the public.
furniture, pianos and manuscripts
Műcsarnok (Kunsthalle)
give an insight into the life and work 8
of this extraordinary man. MAP E2 • XIV, Hősök tere • 06
460 70 00 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–
Vajdahunyad Castle
7 Sun, noon–8pm Thu • Dis. access
MAP F2 • Museum of
• Adm • www.mucsarnok.hu
Agriculture: 06 363 11 17; open Facing the Museum of Fine Arts,
Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm daily; Nov– the Műcsarnok (literally “art
Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Fri, 10am– hall”) was completed in 1895. The
5pm Sat & Sun; adm imposing building, dominated by its
In the middle of Városliget is the portico with six supporting columns,
incredible Vajdahunyad Castle, was designed by Fülöp Herzog and
a mixture of Renaissance, Gothic, Albert Schikendanz. Today, it hosts
Baroque and Romanesque styles, temporary exhibitions and concerts.
designed by Ignác Alpár for
the Millennium Celebrations. Vajdahunyad Castle
Alpár’s idea was to illustrate
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Around Városliget ❮❮ 97
House of
9 A DAY IN VÁROSLIGET
Terror Museum
MAP D3 • VI, Andrássy út 60 • 06 374 Budapest Zoo Széchenyi
26 00 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun Robinson
• Adm • www.terrorhaza.hu
This building was the head quarters Museum of Fine Arts Városligeti
Sörsátor
of the fascist Arrow Cross before and Vajdahunyad
during World War II, and the secret Andrássy Út Heroes' Castle
Square
police afterwards. Exhibits include
a T54 tank used in the repression of
the 1956 revolution. In the basement,
used as a prison during both regimes, Miniversum
one cell has been recreated to look
just as it did in the 1940s. MORNING
Várolisget is a great place for a
family outing. Start off early with
a dip in Budapest’s most popular
thermal baths, Széchenyi (see p95),
situated right in the middle of
Városliget with its own metro
station on the Lilliputian Millen
nium line. Refreshed, you can
then take the kids next door
to the Budapest Zoo, to admire
both animals and buildings. You
can get information about the
programmes for the day at the
entrance. After the trip to the zoo,
take a walk around the park’s
lake at Kós Károly sétány. For
hot Hungarian dishes, sausages
and fresh beer, visit Városligeti
Sörsátor (see p98), located amidst
the trees in the City Park.
AFTERNOON
House of Terror Museum
Start the afternoon off at the
Budapest Zoo
0 Museum of Fine Arts (see p95) at
the edge of the park in Heroes’
MAP E2 • XIV, Városliget,
Állatkerti körút 6–12 • 06 273 49 00 Square. Although you could
• Open May–Aug: 9am–5pm Mon–Thu, spend all afternoon here, try
to restrict yourself to an hour
9am–6pm Fri–Sun; Apr & Sep: 9am– and a half, but don’t miss the
4:30pm Mon–Thu, 9am–5pm Fri–Sun; Raphael Madonna or the fabulous
Mar & Oct: 9am–5pm Mon–Thu, collection of El Grecos. Then give
9am–4:30pm Fri–Sun • Dis. access the kids a treat by taking them
• Adm • www.zoobudapest.com to see the model buildings and
Established in 1866, the city’s zoo is railways at Miniversum (see p52)
considered one of the best in Central before heading back to the park
to admire the architecture of
Europe, and is known for its large Vajdahunyad Castle, ideally from
primate house. The animal enclosures a rowing boat on the park’s central
mostly mimic their natural habitat. lake. If you are visiting in winter,
There is a children’s zoo where tamer you can go iceskating on the lake
animals can be petted, and various (see p53). Finally, end the day with
shows are held twice a day. Most of a superb family dinner at Robinson
the zoo’s animal houses are listed (see p99), one of Budapest’s most
buildings, built in late Secessionist famous restaurants.
style between 1909 and 1911.
See map on p94
094-097_Top_10_Budapest.indd 97 18/10/2016 12:36
98 ❯❯ Budapest Area by Area
Cafés and Pubs
Elegant Art Deco-style interior at the New York Café és Étterem
Sugar Shop
Caledonia
1 6
MAP M1 • VI, Mozsár utca 9
MAP M2 • Paulay Ede utca 48
• 06 311 76 11 • Open 11am–midnight • 06 321 66 72 • Open 10am–10pm
Mon–Thu, 11am–1am Fri & Sat daily
This friendly Scottish pub serves some Give in to the irresistible, colourful
very hearty meals. With a number of sweets at this confectionery and
big screens, it’s a great place to candy shop. Tejberizs (milk rice
catch an important sporting event. pudding) is a local favourite.
Mirage Café & Bar
Ferdinand Monarchy
2 7
Czech Beerhouse
MAP E2 • VI, Dózsa György
út 88 • 06 462 70 70 • Open 10am– MAP D2 • Szív út 30 • 06 312 20 77
10pm daily • Open noon–11pm daily
The location opposite Heroes’ Square Reminiscent of Prague, serving spe-
pulls in the crowds, but the food and cial ity beers from the Czech Republic.
prices are good for a tourist hotspot. Hello Baby
New York Café
3 8
MAP D3 • VI, Andrássy út 52 • 06
és Étterem
776 07 67 • Open 10pm–5am Fri & Sat
Sip your hot chocolate or martini This club attracts a slightly older,
under the cherub-adorned ceiling at less touristy crowd than other places
this Budapest institution (see p59). in the area. With two separate dance
floors, there’s a choice of music.
Menza
4 Városligeti Sörsátor
MAP M2 • VI, Liszt Ferenc
tér 2 • 06 413 14 82 • Open 10am– 9
MAP F2 • XIV, Kós Károly sétány
midnight daily • 0670 599 36 25 • Open 11am–10pm
Restaurant and coffee house with a daily
retro design and a modern take on Hungarian beer house where drinking
Magyar canteen favourites. is taken very seriously. Wine served
directly from barrels is also available.
Café Vian
5 Két Szerecsen
Coffee, cocktails, pasta and
MAP D3 • Nagymező utca 14
salads make Vian a one-stop shop. 0
Enjoy the view out on the terrace • 06 343 19 84 • Open daily
and watch the world go by at this This bistro has excellent food, coffee
ever-busy café (see p57). and an extensive wine menu.
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An unbeatable, pocket-sized guide to Budapest, packed with insider tips and ideas, colour maps, top 10
lists, and a laminated pull-out map - all designed to help you see the very best of Budapest. Explore the
magnificent chambers of the Hungarian Parliament, take a stroll on peaceful Margaret Island, discover a
treasure-trove of artifacts in the Hungarian National Museum, or relax at Gellért Hotel and Baths. From Top
10 shops and markets to the Top 10 Danube sights - discover the best of Budapest with this easy-to-use
travel guide. Inside Top 10 Budapest: - Eight easy-to-follow itineraries , perfect for a day trip, a weekend
or a four-day trip - Top 10 lists showcase Budapest's best attractions, covering St Stephen's Basilica, Váci
utca, Mátyas Church, the Hungarian State Opera and many more - Free laminated pull-out map of Budapest, plus six colour neighbourhood maps - In-depth neighbourhood guides explore Budapest's most interesting areas, with the best places for shopping, going out and sightseeing - Colour-coded chapters divided by area make it easy to find information quickly and plan your day - Essential travel tips including our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus useful transport, visa and health information - Colour maps help you navigate with ease - Covers The Castle District and North Buda, Gellért and Tabán, Central Pest,
Városliget and more Staying for longer and looking for a comprehensive guide? Try our DK Eyewitness Travel
Guide Budapest for more in-depth information. About DK Eyewitness Travel: DK's Top 10 guides take the work out of planning a short trip, with easy-to-read maps, tips and tours to inform and enrich your weekend trip or cultural break. DK is the world's leading illustrated reference publisher, producing beautifully designed
books for adults and children in over 120 countries.
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