(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Gran Canaria

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL


TOP



GRAN CANARIA










LUCY CORNE
















































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Top 10 Gran The Top 10 of
Canaria Highlights Everything

Welcome to Gran Canaria .............5 Moments in History .....................38
Exploring Gran Canaria .................6 Historical Buildings......................40
Gran Canaria Highlights ..............10 Guanche Sites ..............................42
Casa de Colón, Las Palmas ........12 Museums ......................................44
Catedral de Santa Ana, Churches ......................................46
Las Palmas ...............................14 Beauty Spots ................................48
Museo Canario, Beaches ........................................50
Las Palmas ...............................16 Marine Activities ...........................52
Jardín Botánico Viera y Clavijo ....18 Hiking ............................................54
Maspalomas .................................20 Drives and Cycle Routes ..............56
Teror ..............................................24 Outdoor Activities .........................58
Tejeda ............................................28 Children’s Attractions ..................60
Puerto de Mogán .........................30 Restaurants ..................................62
Barranco de Guayadeque ............32 Places to Shop .............................64
Puerto de las Nieves ....................34 Gran Canaria for Free ..................66
Traditional Fiestas........................68




















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CONTENTS



















Gran Canaria Streetsmart
Area by Area

Las Palmas ..................................72 Getting To and Around
Northern Gran Canaria ...............80 Gran Canaria ..........................108
Central and Western Practical Information .................110
Gran Canaria ............................86 Places to Stay .............................114
Eastern Gran Canaria ..................94
Southern Gran Canaria .............100 General Index .............................118
Acknowledgments .....................124
Phrase Book ...............................126






The information in this DK Eyewitness
Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that
this book is as up-to-date as possible at
the time of going to press. Some details,
however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information, are
liable to change. The publishers cannot
accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy material on third-party websites, and cannot
of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in guarantee that any website address in this
the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. book will be a suitable source of travel
information. We value the views and
Front cover and spine Anfi del Mar beach suggestions of our readers very highly.
near Arguineguín Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness
Back cover Casa de Colón and Catedral de Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand,
Santa Ana, Las Palmas London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email
Title page Village of El Roque, with Roque [email protected]
Bentayga in the background




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Top 10 Gran Canaria ❮❮ 5

Welcome to
Gran Canaria





Eternal sunshine, beautiful beaches, magnificent
mountains, a cosmopolitan capital and a historic
heart – Gran Canaria has it all. Whether you’re
seeking a sub-tropical beach holiday, a city weekend
getaway or a world-class hiking destination, with
Eyewitness Top 10 Gran Canaria, it’s yours to explore.

Gran Canaria is an exciting amalgam of ancient and modern.
You’ll discover chic cafés in the cobbled streets of Vegueta,
overlooked by the 15th-century cathedral. You can enjoy creative
cuisine in the kitchens of top restaurants, then travel to the
whitewashed mountain villages of Teror and Tejeda, where you’ll
find menus featuring dishes that have changed little in centuries.
Gran Canaria is a hedonistic hotchpotch of cultures at the crossroads
of Europe and the New World. You can walk through the sand dunes
of Maspalomas at sunrise and imagine you’re in the deserts of
Africa. Alternatively, listen to Latin music spilling from the bars of
Las Palmas and wonder if you’re in South America, or immerse
yourself in one of Europe’s liveliest nightspots, in Playa del Inglés.

Away from the beaches of its coastline, lies an ancient and mysterious
land of sharp-toothed volcanoes, plunging ravines and heart-stirring
panoramas. Clouds enshrine Roque Nublo, sapphire lakes glisten
in the midst of Tamadaba’s pine forests, and families still find
shelter in the ancient caves of Barranco de Guayadeque.
Whether you’re coming for a weekend or a week, our Top 10 guide
showcases the best of everything Gran Canaria has to offer. There
are tips throughout, from seeking out what’s free to avoiding the
crowds, plus seven easy-to-follow itineraries, designed to tie
together a clutch of sights in a short space of time. Add inspiring
photography and detailed maps and you’ve got the essential pocket-
sized travel companion. Enjoy the book, and enjoy Gran Canaria.


Clockwise from top: Puerto de Mogán marina; windmill near Mogán; cactuses; Museo Néstor;
tiled houses in Puerto de Mogán; Maspalomas sand dunes; Playa Amadores






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6 ❯❯ Top 10 Gran Canaria

Exploring Gran Canaria Cueva Cueva Las Palmas de
Las Palmas de
Pintada
Pintada
Gran Canaria
Gran Canaria
Arucas
Gran Canaria may be small, but there’s a lot to take in, and Arucas
the winding roads of the mountainous interior make for
slow progress. These suggested itineraries cover the Puerto de Agaete
Agaete
Puerto de
las Nieves
best of what the island has to offer, and will save you las Nieves Jardín Botánico
Jardín Botánico
spending precious holiday hours planning routes. Viera y Clavijo
Viera y Clavijo
Teror Teror
Caldera
Caldera
de Bandama
de Bandama
Tejeda
Tejeda
Roque Nublo
Roque Nublo
Pico de las
Pico de las
Barranco de
Nieves Barranco de
Nieves
Guayadeque
Guayadeque
Santa Lucía
Santa Lucía
de Tirajana
de Tirajana
SoriaSoria
Agüimes
Mogán
Mogán ReservoirReservoir Fataga Agüimes
Fataga
Catedral de Santa Ana is a masterpiece of
Canarian architecture.
0 km0 km 5 5
Puerto de
Puerto de
Two Days in Las Palmas Key Mogán 0 miles0 miles 5 5
Mogán
Two-day itinerary
Day 1 Seven-day itinerary
MORNING
Spend the morning in historic Maspalomas
Maspalomas
Vegueta, taking in the Catedral de Seven Days in Gran
Santa Ana (see pp14–15), Casa de Canaria
Colón (see pp12–13), Museo Canario
(see pp16–17) and the contemporary Days 1 and 2
art gallery CAAM (see p76). Follow the two-day Las Palmas
AFTERNOON itinerary.
Head to Calle Mayor de Triana
(see p77) for shopping. Take a coffee Day 3
break in Parque de San Telmo (see MORNING
p76). End the day with a cocktail at Start your day in the Old Quarter of
La Azotea de Benito (see p78) and Agüimes (see p96), and take in the
dinner at Allende Triana (see p79). Parroquia de San Sebastián and the
Museo de Historia de Agüimes (see
Day 2 p44). Spend the rest of the morning
MORNING in the Barranco de Guayadeque (see
Begin in Parque Doramas, and then pp32–3) and lunch in one of the cave
visit the Museo Néstor (see p74, restaurants located here.
closed Mon). Stroll the promenade to AFTERNOON
Avenida de José Mesa y López for Drive on to pretty Santa Lucía de
shopping at El Corte Inglés (see p77). Tirajana (see p103) and have dinner
AFTERNOON in even prettier Fataga (see p100).
Dedicate the afternoon to the beautiful
sands of Playa de Las Canteras (see Day 4
p73). End the day with tapas and MORNING
watch the sun set at one of the Drive to Maspalomas (see pp20–21) to
restaurants behind the beach. admire the magnificent sand dunes
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Exploring Gran Canaria ❮❮ 7

Cueva Cueva
Las Palmas de
Pintada
Pintada Las Palmas de
Gran Canaria
Gran Canaria
Arucas
Arucas
Agaete
Puerto de
Puerto de Agaete
las Nieves
las Nieves
Jardín Botánico
Jardín Botánico
Viera y Clavijo
Viera y Clavijo
Teror Teror
Caldera
Caldera
de Bandama
de Bandama
Tejeda
Tejeda
Roque Nublo
Roque Nublo
Pico de las
Pico de las
Barranco de
Nieves
Nieves Barranco de
Guayadeque
Guayadeque
Santa Lucía
Santa Lucía
de Tirajana The sand dunes at Maspalomas
de Tirajana
are among Gran Canaria’s most
SoriaSoria unforgettable sights.
Agüimes
Mogán ReservoirReservoir Fataga Agüimes
Mogán
Fataga
0 km0 km 5 5
Puerto de
Puerto de
Mogán
Mogán 0 miles0 miles 5 5
Traditional fishing
boats line the
Maspalomas
Maspalomas harbour at Puerto
de las Nieves.
before travelling on to Puerto de Gáldar. Afterwards, continue on to
Mogán (see pp30–31). Enjoy a Puerto de las Nieves (see pp34–5)
leisurely lunch by the marina. for a seafood lunch.
AFTERNOON AFTERNOON
Take the road inland to Mogán and Backtrack to Agaete (see p83) to take
head to the Soria reservoir (see p57) in San Pedro’s Bodega Los Berrazales
before returning to the coast. (see p84, closed Sun) and then sample
the local coffee at Cafeteria Huerto de
Day 5 Las Flores (see p85, closed Sat & Sun).
MORNING
Make an early start for Tejeda (see Day 7
pp28–9). Explore the town and shop MORNING
for food before heading to Roque Beginning in Teror, head straight
Nublo. Park at Degollada de la Goleta to the Basίlica de Nuestra Señora del
and walk to the site for a picnic. Pino (see pp26–7), and then drive on
AFTERNOON to Arucas (see pp82–3). Photograph
Detour to Pico de las Nieves (see the church, tour the rum factory
p87) before ending the day back and enjoy lunch at Casa Brito
in Tejeda. (see p85, closed Sun D, Mon & Tue).
AFTERNOON
Day 6 Spend a couple of hours in the Jardín
MORNING Botánico Viera y Clavijo (see pp18–19)
Book tickets in advance to start your and end with a breathtaking drive to
day at the Cueva Pintada (see p81) in Caldera de Bandama (see p95).
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Top 10 Gran Canaria

Highlights












Colourful boats in the marina at
Puerto de Mogán















































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Gran Canaria Highlights 10 Teror 24
Casa de Colón, Las Palmas 12 Tejeda 28
Catedral de Santa Ana, Puerto de Mogán 30
Las Palmas 14
Barranco de Guayadeque 32
Museo Canario, Las Palmas 16
Puerto de las Nieves 34
Jardín Botánico Viera y Clavijo 18
Maspalomas 20





















































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10 ❯❯ Top 10 Gran Canaria Highlights

Gran Canaria Highlights


Gran Canaria has often been described as “a continent in
miniature”, and with good reason. Within just 1,500 sq km
(580 sq miles) you can travel from the rugged northern coast
through verdant laurel forests and extinct volcanoes to the
central peaks, before you descend again through ancient pine
woodlands and reach glorious golden beaches in the south.

Casa de Colón
Trace Columbus’s
journeys in this museum
set in the 15th-century
governor’s house where
the explorer is said to have
La La
stayed en route to the New Gáldar Isleta Isleta
Gáldar
World (see pp12–13). Puerto de GC-2 GC-2 Las Palmas de
Las Palmas de
Puerto de
Catedral de Santa Ana las Nieves Santa María de Guía Arucas Gran Canaria
Santa María de Guía
Gran Canaria
las Nieves
Arucas
Las Palmas’s cathedral GC-70 GC-70 Moya Firgas
Moya
Firgas
has been an emblem of the city Agaete GC-21 GC-21 San Cristóbal
Agaete
San Cristóbal
Zumacal
since the Spanish Conquest. Its Zumacal GC-3 GC-3
Jardín Botánico
Jardín Botánico
de Tamadaba ural
Fagajesto
construction over 400 years El Risco Fagajesto GC-21 GC-21 Teror Teror Viera y Clavijo
Viera y Clavijo
El Risco
de Tamadaba
Parque Nat
Valleseco
explains the range of GC-200 GC-200 Parque Natural Valleseco Tafira Tafira
Santa Brígida
Santa Brígida
Puerto de
styles that make it Puerto de Artenara Vega de San Mateo
Artenara
la Aldea
la Aldea
Vega de San Mateo
one of the island’s GC-210 GC-41 GC-41
Telde
Tejeda
most important San Nicolás GC-210 El Carrizal Tejeda Valsequillo Telde
Valsequillo
San Nicolás
El Carrizal
de Tolentino
artistic monuments de Tolentino GC-130 Barranco de GC-100 GC-100
del Nublo Rural
Barranco de
GC-130
Ayacata
(see pp14–15). Parque Rural Ayacata Guayadeque GC-1 GC-1
del Nublo
Guayadeque
Tasarte Parque Ingenio
Tasarte
Ingenio
Museo Canario San Bartolomé Santa Lucía Carrizal
San Bartolomé
Carrizal
de Tirajana
Santa Lucía
de Tirajana
Veneguera
de Tirajana
Agüimes
Since they died out soon Veneguera de Tirajana Agüimes
after the Spanish Conquest, GC-200 GC-200 Mogán Fataga GC-65 GC-65 Cruce de
Fataga
Mogán
Parque Natu
Cruce de
Arinaga
little is known about how the Parque Natural de Pilancones ral de Pilancones Arinaga
Arteara
Guanches (early Canarios) lived. Arteara Sardina Vecindario
Sardina
Vecindario
del Sur
del Sur
Puerto
Gain insight at the Museo Puerto GC-60 GC-60
de Mogán
de Mogán
Canario (see pp16–17). Juan Grande
Juan Grande
Bahía
Puerto Rico Bahía
Puerto Rico
Feliz Feliz
San San
Jardín Botánico Viera y Clavijo GC-500 GC-500 Fernando San Agustín
Fernando
San Agustín
Spain’s largest botanical garden is a mix El Pajar GC-1 GC-1 Playa del Inglés
El Pajar
Playa del Inglés
of endemic and tropical plants. Giant lizards Maspalomas 0 kilometres
Maspalomas
bask in the sun, while songbirds chirrup in the 0 kilometres 8 8
0 miles
laurel and pine plantations (see pp18–19). 0 miles 8 8
Maspalomas
With its golden dunes,
this is both a tourist resort
and an area of stunning
natural beauty, visited by
holidaymakers and migrating
birds alike (see pp20–21).
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Gran Canaria Highlights ❮❮ 11

Teror
Set in an area of outstanding
natural beauty, this quiet, architecturally
exquisite Canarian town has deep
historical roots (see pp24–5).

Tejeda
Drama and beauty
combine forces in this
picturesque village, where
pavement cafés spill onto
cobbled streets above the
ravine (see pp28–9).


La La Puerto de
Isleta Isleta
Gáldar
Gáldar
GC-2 GC-2 Mogán
Las Palmas de
Puerto de Santa María de Guía Las Palmas de
Puerto de
Santa María de Guía
Gran Canaria
las Nieves Arucas Gran Canaria Sunshine and
las Nieves
Arucas
Moya
Moya glorious sunsets
GC-70 GC-70 Firgas
Firgas
Agaete GC-21 GC-21 San Cristóbal are the trademark
Agaete
Zumacal GC-3 GC-3 San Cristóbal of this, the island’s
Zumacal
Jardín Botánico
de Tamadaba ural
Fagajesto
Viera y Clavijo
Viera y Clavijo
El Risco Fagajesto GC-21 GC-21 Teror Teror Jardín Botánico prettiest resort.
El Risco
de Tamadaba
Parque Nat
Valleseco
GC-200 GC-200 Parque Natural Valleseco Tafira Tafira Straddling canals,
Santa Brígida
Puerto de
Puerto de Artenara Santa Brígida it’s known as
Artenara
la Aldea
la Aldea Vega de San Mateo
Vega de San Mateo
GC-210 GC-210 Tejeda GC-41 GC-41 Telde Little Venice
Telde
Tejeda
Valsequillo
San Nicolás
San Nicolás El Carrizal Valsequillo (see pp30–31).
El Carrizal
de Tolentino GC-130 Barranco de GC-100 GC-100
de Tolentino
Parque Rural Ayacata Guayadeque GC-1 GC-1
del Nublo Rural
GC-130
Barranco de
Ayacata
del Nublo
Guayadeque
Tasarte
Tasarte Parque Ingenio
Ingenio
San Bartolomé
San Bartolomé
Carrizal
de Tirajana Santa Lucía Carrizal
Santa Lucía
de Tirajana
Veneguera de Tirajana Agüimes
de Tirajana
Veneguera
Agüimes
Parque Natural de Pilancones ral de Pilancones Arteara Arinaga
GC-200 GC-200 Mogán Fataga GC-65 GC-65 Cruce de
Fataga
Mogán
Parque Natu
Cruce de
Arinaga
Arteara
Sardina
Vecindario
del Sur
del Sur
Puerto Sardina Vecindario
Puerto
de Mogán GC-60 GC-60
de Mogán
Juan Grande
Juan Grande
Bahía
Puerto Rico Bahía Barranco de Guayadeque
Puerto Rico
San San Feliz Feliz
Fernando
Fernando
San Agustín Guanche cave homes and modern
San Agustín
GC-500
GC-500
GC-1
El Pajar
El Pajar GC-1 Playa del Inglés troglodyte abodes line the sides of this
Playa del Inglés
Maspalomas
Maspalomas 0 kilometres 8 8 stunning ravine (see pp32–3).
0 kilometres
0 miles
0 miles 8 8
Puerto de las Nieves
Many visitors pass
through en route to Tenerife, but
this pretty fishing village is a
destination in its own right.
Watch the boats, enjoy a seafood
lunch, and unwind (see pp34–5).
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12 ❯❯ Top 10 Gran Canaria Highlights

Casa de Colón, Las Palmas

One of the capital’s most delightful buildings is a wonderful
museum where the main focus is the discovery of America. In the
15th century, the governor’s home stood on this site, though the
building has changed considerably since then. While not certain,
it’s very likely that this is where Christopher Columbus stayed in
1492 before he set off in search of a shortcut to India and
unwittingly stumbled across America instead.
Historical
Las Palmas 1
Children love the
interactive model of late-
17th-century Las Palmas
(right). There are also
models of the Castillo de
la Luz and Rejón’s
settlement of 1478.
Pre-Columbian
2
Art
The crypt contains
some remarkable
reproductions of Mexican
and Ecuadorian pottery
from 500 BC to the
10th century. Most are
idols, while others are
decorative pieces.
Façade
Canarian
Reproduction
3 4 5
of La Niña
Emigration
If you view
Be transported back to the museum from the Once the transatlantic
the 15th century in this cobbled streets around it, route was established,
replica of La Niña, said you can spot details of Canarians started
to have been Columbus’s Las Palmas’s earliest emigrating in their
favourite ship. Of special architecture – parts of hundreds. Paintings and
note is the voyager’s the façade date from the information panels tell
cabin, complete with 1500s. However, the the story of the exodus
a painting and crucifix current building (below) and of the trades that
from the original vessel. bears little resemblance thrived then failed.
to the original structure.
The Discovery
6
You can trace the
four journeys Columbus
made across the Atlantic
on maps of his version of
the world. A reproduction
of his diary lies open at
the page detailing his
first stop in the Canary
Islands, when he came
ashore at Las Palmas
and La Gomera before
crossing the ocean.

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Casa de Colón, Las Palmas ❮❮ 13

Casa de Colón, Las Palmas 7 LOVE ON THE
Early Navigation
See absorbing old
maps, atlases and a rare HIGH SEAS?
16th-century bronze Some historians suggest
astrolabe (left). Trace that there was more on
the changing perceptions Columbus’s mind than
of the world from favourable winds when he
Ptolemy’s sophisticated chose to pass through the
2nd-century map through Canaries. The decision to
to increasingly accurate stop at La Gomera, rather
efforts in the 1500s. than the larger Tenerife, to
stock up on supplies, fuel-
led suspicion that he was
visiting his lover Beatriz
de Bobadilla, a member
of the Spanish court.
Historic
8
Paintings
A whistle-stop tour
through 500 years of art
starts with early religious
paintings (below). Make
sure you visit the room
dedicated to Canarian
artists, with colourful
20th-century landscapes
and a painting by local
artist Néstor de la Torre.




8 Museum
8 Floorplan
1
8
6
8
5
9 5
3
Model and
Key to Floorplan 7 9
1st floor 2 Maps of
Ground floor 7 the Island
Basement Plan your stay using a 3D
model showing ravines,
NEED TO KNOW • Restaurante Marsala on craters and mountains –
C/Mendizábal is a popular an up-to-date view of the
MAP M5 • C/Colón 1 island’s topography.
• 928 31 23 73 • www. upmarket spot for lunch.
casadecolon.com • Don’t forget to visit the Ceilings and
Ermita de San Antonio 0
Open 10am–6pm Mon– Abad, 50 m (164 ft) from Courtyards
Sat, 10am–3pm Sun. the museum. Columbus The reproduction
Adm: €4.00 is said to have prayed Mudéjar ceilings are very
Guided tours are available here before his journey impressive. Upstairs is
on request. across the Atlantic. the only original section
that is ornately carved.




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14 ❯❯ Top 10 Gran Canaria Highlights

Catedral de Santa Ana,
Las Palmas

Dominating the Vegueta skyline, the cathedral’s twin bell towers
are the most recognizable landmark of Las Palmas. Construction
started just 14 years after the Spanish conquered Gran Canaria,
but additions continued to be made late into the 19th century.
The result is a microcosm of Canarian architecture: Gothic,
Neo-Classical, Renaissance and local styles are all represented.
Though this massive edifice differs wildly from the original,
remnants of the 15th-century structure are still visible.
Façade
Chapels
1 4
You can see the
Aping the original
preserved body of Bishop Gothic design, the
Buenaventura Codina impressive Neo-Classical
in the Capilla de los façade (right) was added
Dolores. Of the other ten in the 19th century. From
chapels, the Capilla de inside you can clearly
San Fernando, with the see the join between
cathedral’s only Baroque the two.
altarpiece, stands out.
Tombs
5
The grand tomb of
local politician Fernando
de León y Castillo, in the
Capilla de Santa Teresa,
was built by Miguel de la
Torre in 1928. Historian
and naturalist José de
Viera y Clavijo, one-
time archdeacon of
Fuerteventura, has a
more modest tomb in
the Capilla de San José.
Museo
Square and
6 7
Statues
Diocesano
Ceiling
2 Guarding the cathedral de Arte Sacro
and the square in which
Admire the
Adjoining the cathedral
intricate Gothic ceiling it stands are eight is the Museum of Sacred
(above). High above the statues depicting the Art, a collection of
altar are wooden statues dogs (below) that religious art that includes
of the apostles. supposedly gave the sculptures, paintings and
Canary Islands woodcarvings dating
Patio de los
3 their name. back to the 16th century.
Naranjos
Among the
Presiding over the
Entered via the Puerta other grand Chaplain’s Room is an
del Aire, this leafy buildings that important Luján Pérez
17th-century courtyard line the large crucifix, which leaves
joins the cathedral to the plaza are the the confines of the
Museum of Sacred Art. episcopal cathedral once a
Built in a typical Canarian palace and year to appear in
manner, it is overlooked the old the city’s Easter
by wooden balconies. town hall. procession.
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Catedral de Santa Ana, Las Palmas ❮❮ 15



JOSÉ LUJÁN PÉREZ
Born in Santa María de
Guía, Luján Pérez
(1756–1815) was Gran
Canaria’s most prolific
and respected religious
sculptor. Venerated for
his ability to create
Viewing Terrace
8 perfectly proportioned
figures, he favoured
Jump into the lift that whizzes you up to the
cathedral’s bell tower to enjoy fine views over the old sculptures of Christ or
the Virgin Mary. Admire
town, commercial district and port (above). A lively his intricate Baroque
commentary gives a brief history of Las Palmas. carvings in churches
across the island,
though his finest works
are to be seen in its
leading places of
worship, the cathedral
and the Basílica de
Nuestra Señora del Pino
in Teror (see pp24–5).
NEED TO KNOW
MAP M5 • C/Obispo
Codina 13 • 928 31 49 89
Museo Diocesano de
Arte Sacro: C/Espíritu
Santo 20. 10am–
4:30pm Mon–Sat.
Adm: €3.00
• Find cafés and bars
on nearby C/Pelota.
• Entrance to the
cathedral is via the
Museo Diocesano de
4 1 0 1 1 1 Arte Sacro on Calle
Cathedral Espíritu Santo. Mass
Floorplan is said two times daily
1 Mon–Fri at 8:30am
and 9:30am, once on
1 Sat at 7pm and four
0 times on Sun at 10am,
0 noon, 1pm and 7pm.
5
1
Paintings
9 0
1 3 1 1 5 1 Baroque paintings
by Canarian maestro
Sculptures
9 Juan de Miranda flank
The cathedral’s most significant sculpture is
the altar. Juan de
a Luján Pérez masterpiece, Nuestra Señora de los Roelas’s canvas in the
Dolores (“Our Lady of Sorrows”), housed in the Capilla de Santa Catalina
chapel of the same name. It accompanies a is typical of 17th-century
statue of Christ in the annual Easter parade. Sevillian art.




014-015_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 15 22/12/2016 17:08

16 ❯❯ Top 10 Gran Canaria Highlights

Museo Canario,
Las Palmas


Early Canarian history is a mysterious and fascinating subject
that is given in-depth coverage in this excellent museum. The
collection presents the most respected theories concerning the
origins and practices of the Guanches, allowing you to reach your
own conclusions. While most of the objects were unearthed on
Gran Canaria, there is also a lot of detailed information on the
primitive cultures of the other islands.






















Skulls and
Pintaderas
Aboriginal
1 3 5
Ceramics
Bones
The purpose of
these small ceramic Hundreds of smiling This island-by-island
stamps still isn’t known. skulls, possibly of Cro- showcase of aboriginal
Guanches used them Magnon man, adorn the ceramics also includes
either to mark patterns walls in this eerie yet the primitive tools used
on their skin or to intriguing room (above). to create them.
personalize grain stores.
Housing
Pick your favourite and 4
then head to the shop for The Spaniards were intrigued to find primitive
a replica necklace. peoples living in caves and stone houses alongside
more advanced communities. Fascinating photos
Funeral Rites
2 and models (below) illustrate both types of dwelling.
and Medicine
With mummification just
for the higher classes,
the Guanches also built
stone tombs and wooden
coffins. Ghoulish skulls
illustrate trepanation,
a medical procedure in
which cranial holes were
drilled to ease pain.
016-017_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 16 22/12/2016 17:08

Museo Canario, Las Palmas ❮❮ 17



LIKE CANARIES
AND DOGS
Early inhabitants called
the island Tamarán.
When the conquerors
arrived, they split it into
Mummies
6 two cantons, each led by
a guanarteme (chief).
Some theories link the Guanches to the
Egyptians, owing to their similar methods of mum­ Outsiders have referred
to the island as Canaria
mification (above). Archeologists continue to find for at least 2,000 years,
artifacts across the islands, but the tombs were raided though few can agree
long ago, and their contents sold to the museum. whether it was named
after dogs, birds or the
9 Berber tribe – the Canarii
– who inhabited it before
the arrival of the Spanish.
5
5 Magic and
0
2 6 Religion
3 6 Chroniclers of the
Conquest wrote that the
8 Guanches worshipped
1 a single god, but the
0 survival of numerous
7 idols suggests that this
was not the case. Most
4
deities found on the
island take the female
Key to Floorplan form; the largest, the
First floor Tara Idol, is now a
Ground floor symbol of pride for
Canary Islanders.
Traditional 9
Pottery
Reproduction
7 The tradition of crafting
of the Cueva
Pintada pottery without
The original site is in using a wheel has
Gáldar, but you can also persisted on Gran
see some Guanche art Canaria. See some
at the museum. The examples here (right).
geometric patterns in
black, white and red NEED TO KNOW the museum. It sells
represent the finest handicrafts, books and
examples of cave art to MAP L5 • C/Dr Verneau 2 a selection of souvenirs.
be seen on the islands. • 928 33 68 00 • www.
The museum’s version elmuseocanario.com • For those who want
is an almost perfect Open 10am–8pm Mon– to delve deeper into
replica of the original. Fri, 10am–2pm Sat, Sun Canarian history, the
museum has a superlative
Adm: €4.00; concessions
Agriculture
8 €2.40; children under library, which holds
and Farming
almost every book
The basic tools on 12 free published in or about the
display demonstrate the • The museum shop is Canary Islands, as well
tough life of the pastoral located on the right-hand as a huge archive of
Guanches, who survived side, just before you enter Canarian newspapers.
on limited resources.
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18 ❯❯ Top 10 Gran Canaria Highlights

Jardín Botánico
Viera y Clavijo


Nestled in the Guiniguada ravine, Spain’s largest botanical garden
is in Tafira Alta, 7 km (4 miles) from Las Palmas. Its steep paths
are cloaked in Macronesian flora, both endemic and imported.
Showcasing all the flora of the Canary Islands over the six decades
of the garden’s existence, it is one of Gran Canaria’s most prized
attractions. Although pretty in any season, the best time to visit is in
January or February, after the winter rains have worked their magic.

El Alpendre 1
Built in traditional
Canarian style, this stone
farm shed (right) pre-
dates the surrounding
gardens. Restored in
1989, it holds a thresher,
silo, plough and other
agricultural articles.
Cactuses and
2
Succulents
The lowest part of the
garden is home to an
impressive array of
cactuses (below), of both
native and imported
species. There are
around 2,000 varieties
of succulent plant on
display in this section,
almost a third of the
world’s known species.
Map of Jardín Botánico
Viera y Clavijo
9
0
4
1
6 5
3
8 7 2
Waterlilies
3 Fountain of Pine Wood
The official meeting
the Wise
point, the waterlily pond 4 5
If you don’t
of the pretty Plaza de los This basalt monument manage to visit a Canarian
Nenúfares is also the pays tribute to important pine forest, at least
site of permanent and local botanists. A panel breathe in the scent of
temporary exhibitions lists plant species pine trees here. In spring,
on different aspects beside the discoverers look out for the blossoms
of the garden. who named them. of the Canary gum.



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Jardín Botánico Viera y Clavijo ❮❮ 19

Islands
7 ROOTS AND
Garden
Get an overview of the BRANCHES
plant life of all seven Swedish botanist Eric
islands, including some Sventenius set up the
rare species. The plants garden in 1952, aiming
are grouped by island to create a space where
of origin (left). people could enjoy
plants from across the
Laurel Forest
8 islands without needing
to get on a boat. The
Until the last ice
age, much of Europe garden opened to the
public in 1959. After the
was covered in laurel death of Sventenius in
forest (laurisilva); the only 1972, British naturalist
surviving examples are David Bramwell took
in the Canary Islands and over the reins, and began
Madeira. An area of the to develop the garden as
garden was planted with an investigative centre,
laurisilva in 1964. Within as well as a public park.
it are some rare species, Today, it has an
including the Garoé tree, international reputation
sacred to the original as a conservation and
inhabitants of El Hierro. research centre,
conducting important
Plaza de
9 studies into the unique
flora of the Canaries.
Viera y Clavijo
The first port of call for
visitors using the upper
entrance is this small NEED TO KNOW
square, overlooked by a
bust of 18th-century MAP E2 • GC-310 &
historian and naturalist GC-110 • 928 21 95 80
• www.jardincanario.org
José de Viera y Clavijo.
The view of the gardens Open Apr–Sep: 9am–
from here gives you 7:30pm daily; Oct–Mar:
a sneak preview of 9am–6pm daily
what’s in store. Exhibition Centre: 9am–
2:30pm Mon–Fri
Exhibition
Centre
Lost Dragons
6 0 • The gardens are a
If you want to know
A subspecies of
popular venue for
the legendary Draecaena more about Canarian wedding photos, so you
draco (or dragon tree), flora, the small exhibition may spot a bride and
the Draecaena tamaranae centre has information groom posing in among
(below) was discovered on the many habitats the plants and flowers.
on Gran Canaria in 1972. found on the Canary • The gardens have
One of the rarest trees in Islands. Audiovisual and two entrances. The first
the world, its sap runs interactive exhibits add to is on the GC-310 (lower
red and is known as the information provided entrance), while the
dragon’s blood. in the wall displays. second is on the GC-110
(upper entrance).
• Disabled visitors can
enter by the lower gate
on the GC-310. Much
of the garden isn’t
accessible, but the lower
section is step-free.
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20 ❯❯ Top 10 Gran Canaria Highlights

Maspalomas

Maspalomas is best known for its magnificent sand dunes,
protected as a nature reserve. Part of the original expanse was
destroyed in a flurry of construction in the 1960s and 1970s; many
plant and animal species were lost at that time, but the authorities
are working to reintroduce them. Today Maspalomas is one of the
Canary Islands’ largest resorts, but it’s still easy to find a peaceful
spot in which to enjoy the sun away from the tourist crowds.
Sand Dunes 1
Contrary to popular
belief, these 400 ha
(988 acres) of golden
sand (right) didn’t blow
across from the Sahara
Desert; they washed up
from the ocean. While a
large part is constantly on
the move, there is a stable
section, home to a variety
of flora and bird life. Stick
to the signed routes to
protect the wildlife.
The Resort
2
The area is still
best known as a major
tourist resort favoured
Mirador
by northern Europeans. 4 NEED TO KNOW
Maspalomas was a You’ll get some
victim of the construction very fine views from MAP D6
boom, but it is a far more the mirador (viewing Parque Botánico de
exclusive resort than point) on the main road Maspalomas: 10am–
its raucous neighbour to neighbouring Playa 6pm daily
Playa del Inglés. del Inglés. It is very Golf greens: Adm:
popular among tourists. €64.00 (summer),
Maspalomas
3 Golf Course €109.00 (winter)
Beach
This is the island’s 5 Camel rides: Camello
Unrivalled weather
supreme beach (below). and vistas of the dunes Safari Dunas. 928 76
Families favour the calm and ocean beyond make 07 81. 9am–4pm daily.
seas by the lighthouse. Maspalomas’ golf course Adm: adults €12.00;
children €8.00
The section by Playa del special. Non-members
Inglés is nudist. are welcome. • Chiringuitos (kiosks
selling snacks and
drinks) are dotted
around the beach. You
can also take a picnic
and lunch on a bench
next to the lagoon.
• Visit the dunes in
the early morning or
late evening to avoid
burning your feet.




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Maspalomas ❮❮ 21

Camel Rides
7 CONSERVATION, NOT
Pretend you really
are in the desert as you CONSTRUCTION
ride through the dunes on Today, local government
the back of a dromedary is attempting to repair
(left). Trips leave from the the havoc wreaked by
east side of the ravine, mass construction, with
north of the lagoon. schemes to reintroduce
A half-hour ride takes you bird and plant species
through areas thick with once common in the
area. Not so long ago,
daisies and tamarisk. the priority was to profit
from the dunes at all
costs, even if it meant
approving projects that
would inevitably damage
the fragile ecosystem.
The demolition of a
half-built hotel in the
dunes in 1989 was a
turning point in saving
Gran Canaria’s most
notable landscape from
total destruction.
Lighthouse
9
Standing in a
square is one of the
island’s most striking
landmarks: a 55-m
(180-ft) lighthouse
Parque
Bird-Watching
6 8 (right). It was built
Botánico
As well as local
in the 19th century.
species, many migrating de Maspalomas
birds use the site as a Open daily and free to
pit stop. In spring and enter, Maspalomas’ vast
autumn look out for botanical garden spreads
kingfisher, heron, curlew across 12,000 sq m
and egret, along with (129,000 sq ft). It is
the usual nesting birds – home to more than
kestrel, plover and 500 species of flora. The
moorhen. Less common park also operates tours
species include osprey, for nature enthusiasts
courser and grey duck. and visitors.
Map of Maspalomas GC-1
SAN FERNANDO
GC-500
8
GC-1 Lagoon and
2 PLAYA DEL 0
Palm Grove
INGLÉS
5 Playa del
MASPALOMAS Inglés Palm trees from this
7 4 ancient grove were sent
MELONERAS Dunas de to California in the 18th
6 Maspalomas century. Look out for
0 Playa de
el Faro Playa de mullet, guppies and
Maspalomas bream in the murky
waters of the small
9 3 1 lagoon nearby.
020-021_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 21 22/12/2016 17:09

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24 ❯❯ Top 10 Gran Canaria Highlights

Teror

A visit to Teror is a must, not only for its exquisite Canarian
architecture, but also because of its historic and religious
importance. An independent parish since 1514, Teror is one of the
oldest urban centres on the island. Its religious connections date
back to the time when the Virgin Mary was sighted under a pine
tree in a nearby forest. The Madonna of the Pine later became the
island’s patron saint, and pilgrims travel from near and far to pay
homage. The town centre was declared a heritage sight in 1979.

Calle Real 1
de la Plaza
If you appreciate
Canarian architecture,
you’ll love this peaceful
street (right), with its
traditional balconies and
red-tiled roofs.
Market
2
Gran Canaria’s
oldest market offers
a curious blend of
traditional foodstuffs,
bric-a-brac and religious
memorabilia. The stall-
holders set up behind
the church on Sundays,
livening up the otherwise
eerily quiet town.
Plaza Teresa
3 Cistercian Chorizo
de Bolívar
Convent
de Teror
Built in 1953 as an 4 5
overspill for the Fiesta The nuns at this convent Garlic lovers will adore
del Pino, this square sell home-made cakes. the tasty local sandwich-
(below) was dedicated Ring the bell, and a turn- filler. This flavoursome,
to Teresa de Bolívar, wife table will rotate, showing spreadable sausage is
of the South American what’s on offer. Place your available at every bar
revolutionary Simón money on the turntable and restaurant, and also
Bolívar. Her family come and voice your preference. at the Sunday market.
from Teror, and the family An unseen nun will pass
Finca de
crest adorns the square. your cakes over. 6
Osorio
Set in the lush Parque
Rural de Doramas, this
farm boasts some unique
flora, such as the pretty
Canarian bellflower.
Visitors can look out for
shrews and owls, and
take in fine views from
the top of Pico de Osorio,
Previous pages The palm-lined beach at Amadores the Finca’s famous peak.



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Teror ❮❮ 25

Casa de los
8 THE GREEN HEART
Patronos
de la Virgen OF GRAN CANARIA
Teror’s main museum Teror boasts areas of
(left) offers a glimpse natural beauty, which
into how the Canarian have earned it the title
gentry lived in years gone el corazón verde de Gran
by. Delightfully furnished Canaria (“the green
rooms and a small chapel heart of Gran Canaria”).
encircle the patio, which Thanks to considerable
winter rainfall, the
has an Italian fountain as region has lush ravines,
its centrepiece. The place palm groves and an area
is wonderfully authentic, of rare laurel forest.
right down to the musty Above the town, the
smell that still lingers. Caldera de Pino Santo
(Holy Pine Crater) and
Casa de
9 its environs have been
la Cultura
declared a protected
(Episcopal Palace) landscape in recognition
Part of this magnificent of their natural beauty.
building is still home to
the bishop, but a large
section is used for Map of Teror
temporary exhibitions
by local artists. This is 4 6 2 km
(1 mile)
fitting, as it was the GONZALEZ P. JUAN
townsfolk who presented P. OBISPO POZUELO PASEO G. DIAZ
the house to the 8 C. 1
Canarian bishops in the 2 NUEVA
18th century, in gratitude C. PEREZ PL. TERESA C. DE CEMENTERIO
DE BOLIVAR
for their support in VILLANUEVA DEL PINO
PLAZA
building the basilica. 0
PLAZA
PIO XII C. OBISPO
MORAN
AV. DE
FUENTE AV. NESTOR
BUENAVISTA
PLAZA
ALAMO
Fiesta 9 3
del Pino 7
Basílica de
On 8 September each 0
year, Teror becomes a Nuestra
hive of activity. Pilgrims Señora del Pino
walk from all over the Home to the Madonna
island to join in the of the Pine, this church
festivities in honour of (see p26–7) is a signif­
their patron saint (right). icant island highlight.
NEED TO KNOW Casa de los Patronos de la 3–6pm daily (for sale of
MAP D2 Virgen: Plaza de Nuestra cakes and biscuits only)
Señora del Pino. 11am– Finca de Osorio: GC-43,
Tourist information office: 4pm Mon–Fri, 10am–2pm
Plaza de Sintes. 9:30am– Sat–Sun. Adm: €3.00. around 2km (1 mile) from
4pm Mon–Fri Teror. 928 63 00 90. 9am–
Disabled access only 6pm daily; visits by
Basílica de Nuestra Señora to lower floor appointment only.
del Pino: 3:30–8pm Mon,
9am–1pm, 3–8pm Tue– Market: 9am–3pm Sun • Popular locally, El Rincón
Fri, 9am–8pm Sat, Cistercian Convent: C/Obispo de Magüi (C/Diputación 6)
8am–8pm Sun Pozuelo. 10am–1pm, offers good Canarian food.
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26 ❯❯ Top 10 Gran Canaria Highlights

Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pino
















The basilica’s ornate altarpiece, seen from the nave
9 4 2 3
Main Altarpiece
1
Ornately carved from dark
wood, the main altarpiece is the
work of Nicolás Jacinto, and is
considered the finest example of
Rococo art on the island. Crowned
with the Virgin’s ornate silver throne,
and with a glorious silver frontispiece 7 1
decorating its lower section, it Floorplan of Basílica de Nuestra
outshines all its competitors. Señora del Pino
The Crucified
Nuestra Señora del Pino
2 4
For hundreds of years, the
This eerily lit image of Christ
faithful have embroidered the on the cross is another Luján Pérez
flamboyant cloaks that adorn the piece, dating back to 1790. It is one
Virgin. Beneath the gowns stands of his best works.
a wooden Gothic sculpture from
Other Statues
the late 1500s or early 1600s. 5
The theft in 1975 of a selection Noteworthy sculptures
of precious stones from her in the basilica also include
crown is still a sore point a marvellous image of St
among locals. For a close Matthew clutching a crucifix,
look at this statue, enter and a gold-plated image of
through the basilica’s St Ramón Nonato. The most
camarín (shrine). recent statue is The Sacred
Heart of Jesus, which dates
Treasure Room
3 from the early years of the
This is where you can
20th century.
really get to grips with the
Stained-Glass
importance the Madonna has 6
for the people of the island. Windows
The room contains a bizarre Pope Pius XII Amongst the finest examples
selection of gifts from the stained glass is an image of Pope Pius X
faithful. An adjoining room from 1914, when the Virgin
shows the Virgin’s many outfits, some of the Pine was named Gran
of which date back to the 18th century. Canaria’s patron saint. The window
She dons a different dress each year is on the main façade, along with an
during the Fiestas del Pino (see p25). impressive image of Pope Pius XII.


026-027_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 26 22/12/2016 17:09

Teror ❮❮ 27

Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pino THE HOLIEST STATUE


On 8 September 1481, the Virgin Mary TOP 10
appeared to Juan Frías, bishop of Gran BIZARRE GIFTS TO
Canaria, in the branches of a pine tree. THE MADONNA
He could never have guessed how venerated 1 Football signed by the
that image of her would become. A statue Las Palmas team
of the Madonna was enshrined in a small 2 Broken watch
church in the centre of Teror. Since then, the 3 British pound note with
devoted have revered Nuestra Señora del message asking for help
Pino (Our Lady of the Pine). The original 4 Toy car
church has been replaced twice, and has
gradually grown into the huge edifice we 5 Sports trophies
see today. It has become an important 6 Academic certificates
pilgrimage site, and there is an annual 7 Well-loved teddy
two-day festival, which culminates in an 8 Garish souvenir-
evening procession on 8 September. style statuettes
9 Specially composed
poems to her
10 Military medals

Nuestra Señora del
Pino is the patron saint
of Gran Canaria; her
statue is paraded through
the streets of Teror on
8 September.

The Building
Altar of Souls
7 0
The least flamboyant of
Little remains of the previous
the church’s altars is perhaps churches erected on this site. The
also its most striking, with its octagonal tower was a feature of the
weathered painting of souls 17th-century building; the present
languishing in purgatory. (1767) tower is a replica.
Rescued Relics
8
Two relics remain from
previous incarnations of the church:
a large stone font from the first,
16th-century chapel, now in the
camarín; and, in the treasure room,
a cross fashioned from the pine
tree where the vision of the Virgin
was first seen.
Christ Tied to a Column
9
The main focus of Teror’s
Easter parades is an anguished
statue carved by Luján Pérez in 1793.
Considered one of his finest works,
the image is flanked by statues of
St Michael and the Resurrection,
also from the late 18th century. The basilica’s imposing façade





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28 ❯❯ Top 10 Gran Canaria Highlights

Tejeda

Nestling in the folds of a magnificent Caldera, Tejeda is one of
Gran Canaria’s prettiest mountain villages. The island’s earliest
inhabitants occupied this area from the 3rd century, and this was
their last stronghold against the Spanish invaders in 1483. Within
striking distance of so many important ancient sites, this is a great
base for exploring. Tejeda is famous for its almond trees, and
specializes in almond products such as bienmesabe (a sweet,
sponge-based dessert) and mazapanes (marzipan cakes).

Cuevas del
Almond
Roque Nublo
1 2 5
Blossom
Rey
The Canaries’
most famous rock No one knows if the man- In February the Tejeda
(below) is part of a made “Caves of the King”, valley is awash with
volcanic chimney. Follow which were carved out of almond blossom,
the path from the road the west face of Roque heralding spring and the
to the “Cloud Rock”, or Bentayga, were used by Fiesta del Almendro en
snap it from anywhere monarchs. The largest is Flor, one of the island’s
in the interior. called Cueva del Guayre. prettiest fiestas.











Pico de las
3 NEED TO KNOW
Nieves
The view from this MAP C3, D3
peak (left) of 1,949 m • Enjoy a picnic in the
(6,394 ft) is marred by mountains at one of
the presence of a military the cabildo (local
radio station, but on a government) sites.
clear day you’ll still Two of the best sites
enjoy fine panoramas are Llanos de la Pez and
down to the coast. Llanos de Ana López,
Roque
4 both on the GC-600.
You can also camp at
Bentayga
Transport yourself to a cabildo, as long as
you obtain permission
the Stone Age by in advance from the
exploring this pre- local government
Hispanic site. Offerings (call 928 21 92 29 for
and sacrifices were further information).
probably made here.




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Tejeda ❮❮ 29



EXPLOSION AND
EROSION
The rugged landscape
of central Gran Canaria
was not created
overnight. Millions of
years of explosive
eruptions and steady
erosion gave rise to the
awe-inspiring Caldera
de Tejeda. It’s one of the
oldest parts of the
island; volcanic activity
Pretty Tejeda, set in the Caldera de Tejeda was at its height here
around 10 million years
Artenara
7 ago. After a particularly
Cave culture rules
violent explosion, the
in Gran Canaria’s highest centre of the volcano
and chilliest town. Look sank, leaving a crater
around the simple 19th- 18 km (11 miles) wide.
century church, enjoy the The emblematic rocks
fine views and pay a visit crowning the crater are
to the cave-chapel before the result of five million
a warming lunch. years of erosion.
Medicinal
8 Mirador
Plants Centre
Degollada
For centuries, locals 0
have relied on plants de la Becerra
and natural remedies to Views don’t get any
cure illness and maintain better – from here you
health. This garden can see Roque Nublo,
explains the medicinal Roque Bentayga and,
uses and properties of on clear days, Spain’s
hundreds of plants, highest peak, Mount
herbs and flowers. Teide on Tenerife.
Museo de las Tradiciones
9
Housed in a restored, traditional rural house
Cruz de Tejeda
6 with a wooden balcony, this small museum recounts
Tejeda’s history, concentrating on the traditional
All roads lead to
Cruz de Tejeda, the large crafts practised by villagers and including a
stone cross at the island’s re-creation of an old oil and vinegar shop.
central point. Here you
will find donkey rides, Map of Tejeda
two superb restaurants, 7
and a splendid Parador. 6
Artenara
GC-210 Las
Lagunetas
4
Tejeda GC-15
2 GC-150
GC-60 0
89
La Culata
1 GC-130
GC-600
3
Ayacata
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30 ❯❯ Top 10 Gran Canaria Highlights

Puerto de Mogán

Remote and hemmed in by mountains, this is Gran Canaria’s most
picturesque resort. It also claims to have the best climate in the
world, enjoying more sunshine hours than Playa del Inglés and
Maspalomas, and it has wonderful sunsets. Originally a small
fishing village, Puerto de Mogán expanded to become a marina
and resort, as land was reclaimed from the sea. It is because of the
sea-filled channels beneath the houses and between the port and
the beach that the resort is dubbed Little Venice.














Marina
1
A stopping-off
point for ocean yachts
crossing the Atlantic
to the Caribbean, the
marina (above) provides
every facility for yacht
owners, and it also offers
a range of excursions
and charter boats.
Cañada de
2
los Gatos
Old Village
Los Azulejos
This archaeological 4 5
park, built more than On the GC-200 The houses
a thousand years ago, road beyond Veneguera clinging to the cliff face
includes a Guanche is a rock face of intense beyond Explanade de
burial site. Adults are colours (below). It was Castillete are the original
charged an admission formed over millennia, fishing village (above).
fee of €4. as volcanic gases They were all that existed
and fluids reacted here before land was
Diving
3 with chemicals reclaimed from the sea
With sea temper-
in the rocks.
to construct the marina.
atures that rarely fall
below 20° C (68° F), a
fishing-boat wreck lying
at 20 m (66 ft) and an old
stone pier, there’s plenty
to entice divers here.
Expect to see parrotfish,
morays and barracudas.

030-031_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 30 22/12/2016 17:09

Puerto de Mogán ❮❮ 31

Municipal
Street Market 6 FISHY PRACTICES
The large, open-air, During the 19th century
Friday market (right) the fishermen of Puerto
is one of the busiest on de Mogán would watch
the island. You’ll find from their cave homes
everything from fake at the mouth of the
designer labels to ravine for shoals of tuna
African carvings. It’s a before setting sail from
fabulous place to barter the small pebble beach.
for bargains, but be In 1911, a salting factory
wary of pickpockets. was constructed in the
village, propelling
the fishing industry
into an economic boom
and leading the way
for expansion from
small-scale production
Ermita de
7 to major commercial
San Fernando
activity. Fishing remains
Constructed in 1935 by a an important part of the
local family, this simple economy today, and
chapel is where the Puerto de Mogán is a
wives of the fishermen popular destination for
came to pray for the safe big-game fishers.
return of their husbands,
brothers and sons.
Craft Shops
Mass is said in English. 9
Avoid the Friday
Whale and
8 market crowds and
Dolphin Tours
stroll the bougainvillea-
Take a trip to see some lined cobbled streets
of the 29 species of behind the marina and
cetaceans that occupy beach, where, among
the warm coastal waters, the nautical suppliers,
including bottlenose you’ll find independent
dolphins and short- shops selling handmade
finned pilot whales. candles, jewellery,
Boats are monitored to clothing, souvenirs
comply with regulations. and leather goods.
NEED TO KNOW
MAP B5
Spirit of the Sea: whale- & dolphin-
watching trips from Puerto Rico (pick-up
from Puerto de Mogán). www.dolphin
whale.co.uk. Adm: adults €27; children
(3–12yrs) €14
Municipal Street Market: 8am–2pm Fri
Gran Canaria Divers: www.grancanaria
divers.com. Single dives from €40,
courses from €85 0
Playa de Mogán
• Try restaurant Playa de Mogán The sheltered, golden bay was
(Callejón Explanada del Castillete constructed using sand imported from
8) for excellent fish. the Sahara. Gently sloping and with
calm seas, it’s a good beach for
families and for snorkelling.




030-031_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 31 22/12/2016 17:09

32 ❯❯ Top 10 Gran Canaria Highlights

Barranco de Guayadeque


Deep ravines are characteristic of Gran Canaria, but none of them
is more impressive than the Barranco de Guayadeque (which in the
Guanche language means “place of running water”). In addition to
its great natural beauty, this fascinating area has an important
cultural heritage, and harbours unique flora and fauna. The small
local troglodyte population dwells in cave homes and strives to
maintain a way of life that has been lost elsewhere on the island.
Guanche
Flora and
1 4
Fauna
Settlements
Among 80 species of Densely inhabited
flora, there are two before the Conquest
plants found nowhere (see p38), the Barranco
else in the world. You de Guayadeque is littered
might spot the island’s with caves, both natural
only native mammal, and man-made. The
a species of bat. finest is Cuevas Muchas.











Ermita de
Museo de
2 5
San Bartolomé
Guayadeque
Based in a cave, this de Guayadeque
museum (above) offers Nearly everything in
an insight into life in the Guayadeque’s cave
ravine, past and present. chapel, situated in
There is information on Cuevas Bermejas, is
mummification, farming, carved out of the rock.
the rare flora to be found When the hermitage
Troglodyte
here, and even how to was set up is not known, 7
build a cave home. but the crucifix appears Village
to date from just after (Cuevas Bermejas)
Almond
3 the Conquest. Though the tradition of
Blossom
setting up home in a
Views
One of the best times 6 cave has survived, these
to visit the Barranco de The lookout point 21st-century troglodyte
Guayadeque is in late situated in Montaña de abodes have little to do
January and early las Tierras provides a with their pre-Conquest
February, when the good view of the lower counterparts. A peek
almond trees clinging to part of the ravine, though through an open door
the sides of the ravine the best vistas are along is likely to reveal a
burst into a riot of pale GC-120 from Ingenio to television and even
pink and white blossom. Cuevas Blancas. a fitted kitchen.
032-033_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 32 22/12/2016 17:09

Barranco de Guayadeque ❮❮ 33

Barranco de Guayadeque 8 A LANGUAGE LOST
Cave
Restaurants
Hearty traditional Little has survived of the
Canarian dishes, such Guanche language – a
as vegetable stew, mere smattering of words
goat and gofio (see such as baifo (goat kid
p63), are on the menu meat) and gofio (roasted
at most of the local corn or barley). You may,
restaurants (left), however, notice the
although the real many unusual place
appeal is the setting, names on the island,
not the cuisine. most with a distinctly
non-Spanish sound.
Artenara, Agaete,
Tocodoman and
Tenteniguada are among
the multitude of names
whose origins predate
the Conquest. Unfort-
unately, most of their
meanings are lost; one
of the few exceptions
is Guayadeque.
Hiking
9
Hikers rule in the
upper section of the
ravine (below), where
the road fizzles out. The
finest of several short
walks skirts the Caldera
de los Marteles.










View across the Barranco de Guayadeque

NEED TO KNOW • Hike through the ravine, Montaña de
las Tierras
MAP E4 • GC-103 from lying between Agüimes 0
Agüimes or GC-122 and Ingenio, to one of the The road comes to an
from Ingenio most beautiful hamlets
in the area, La Pasadilla. abrupt halt at this small
Museo de Guayadeque: The yellow loquat trees farming village. Follow
Carretera del Barranco de here begin blossoming the cobbled path from
Guayadeque. 928 17 20 in autumn, and the fruits here for a tour of rural
26. 9am–5pm Tue–Sat, they produce can be found Gran Canaria. Four-
10am–3pm Sun. Adm: in local greengrocers’ wheel-drive vehicles can
adults €2.50; children shops through spring continue along the dirt
under 12 €1 and summer. track, but it’s too rough
for normal cars.





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34 ❯❯ Top 10 Gran Canaria Highlights

Puerto de las Nieves

Puerto de las Nieves was once the island’s principal port, but it
suffered a blow in the 19th century with the construction of Puerto de
la Luz in Las Palmas. The lack of major maritime traffic has allowed
the enchanting harbour, with its blue-and-white houses, to retain its
charm. Today it is the main departure point for Tenerife. Hundreds of
visitors pass through the village everyday, but it merits more than
a cursory glance through the bus window en route to the ferry.
Fishing
Old Relics
1 3
Puerto de las
If eating other people’s catch
Nieves seems to be a isn’t enough, you could join the locals
magnet for disused on the wharf (below) and try to fish for
devices from long-gone your own. Or you could simply sip a
glory days. The odd- coffee and watch the local fishermen
looking 19th-century repairing their nets in the harbour.
windmill in Avenida de
los Poetas is the only
one of its kind on the
island, while the old jib
crane and limekiln now
serve to fill tourists’
photograph albums.
Bajada de
2
la Rama
This 4 August celebration
(below) has its origins in
a Guanche rain-making
ceremony. Revellers
gather here as much
for the street party
as for the tradition of
beating the ocean with
pine branches.
Harbour in Puerto de las Nieves
Reproduction
4 NEED TO KNOW
of Maipés
de Abajo MAP B2
The Guanche burial Ermita de las Nieves:
site at this location was 928 89 82 62.
des troyed by construction 11am–1pm Mon–Sat,
work, and only a small 9–11am Sun
reproduction of the • Sample the local brew:
tombs can be viewed strong coffee grown in
here today. In contrast the Agaete valley.
however, the Maipés de
Arriba (see p43), in the • Try to visit mid-week,
Agaete Valley, survived as it gets very busy
the development of during weekends.
that area.






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Puerto de las Nieves ❮❮ 35



HIGHS AND LOWS
Puerto de las Nieves
played a supporting role
in the final years of the
Conquest. From here,
the region’s ruler, Tenesor
Semidán, was taken on
a boat to be baptized
on the mainland as
Fernando Guanarteme.
Seafood Restaurants
5 The Spanish conquerors
also launched their
Sample the catch of the day in one of many
family-run restaurants on the seafront (above). assault on Tenerife from
this port. Later on, Puerto
If you can’t decide on a dish, order de las Nieves underwent
a parrillada (mixed grill) periods of alternate ruin
of fish and seafood. and prosperity, as trade
with America ebbed
and flowed.
Dedo de Dios
8
The curious
basaltic monolith known
as the “Finger of God”
was destroyed in 2005 by
a tropical storm. Despite
the fact that it no longer
exists, it is still the
emblem of the village.
Diving and
9
Surfing
If the pace of the village
is a little slow, try out
local watersports. Scuba
diving is popular around
the cliffs near Dedo de
Dios, while surfers prefer
Punta de las Viejas, just
north of the port.
Beach 6
Of the two beaches,
most people opt for the
one further from the port.
There’s no golden sand,
but the calm, clean
waters make up for the
pebbles (right).
Ferries to
7
Tenerife
Boat trips to Tenerife
Ermita de las Nieves
leave from the port 0
between 6:30am and Model boats, gifts from fishermen, adorn the
8:30pm and reach Santa interior of this church. A Flemish triptych dedicated
Cruz in just over an hour. to the Virgen de las Nieves dominates.





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The Top 10

of Everything












Cenobio de Valerón – Guanche
artificial caves built to store grain















































036-037_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 36 22/12/2016 17:09

Moments in History 38 Hiking 54
Historical Buildings 40 Drives and Cycle Routes 56
Guanche Sites 42 Outdoor Activities 58
Museums 44 Children’s Attractions 60
Churches 46 Restaurants 62
Beauty Spots 48 Places to Shop 64
Beaches 50 Gran Canaria for Free 66
Marine Activities 52 Traditional Fiestas 68


















































036-037_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 37 22/12/2016 17:09

38 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Moments in History


Early Exploration
Volcanic Origins
1 3
Although Mallorcan friars
Like all of the Canary Islands,
Gran Canaria is volcanic in origin had already successfully petitioned
and first emerged from the ocean Rome to recognize Telde as the first
15 million years ago. A second spurt Canarian municipality, it wasn’t until
of volcanic activity created the 1405 that Jean de Béthencourt landed.
northeast of the island 11 million Though he had taken Fuerteventura
years later. Happily, the volcanoes and Lanzarote, he could not overcome
have been extinct for 3,000 years. the tough Canarios. Juan Rejón had
better luck in 1478, when he managed
to set up the hamlet Real de Las
Palmas, the island’s future capital.
Baptism and Defeat
4
The indigenous Canarios
proved no match for the Spanish
invaders. The northern chief,
Tenesor Semidan, was captured,
baptized, and enlisted in the Spanish
Illustration of mummified Guanches cause. Final defeat came in 1483,
when many of the remaining
Arrival of the First
2 fighters jumped into a deep ravine
Inhabitants
rather than live in slavery.
It’s generally agreed by historians
Pirates Attack
that the Guanches were descended 5
from the Berber tribes of Africa, The archipelago’s strategic
but how they arrived in the Canary position on the major trade routes
Islands is a mystery, as they did not brought fortune, but also trouble in
have boat-building skills. The most the form of pirates. The defensive
plausible theory is that they arrived wall surrounding Las Palmas did
as slaves on Roman ships and then little to protect it when Sir Francis
either escaped or were abandoned. Drake attacked in 1595, though he
failed to defeat the locals. A more
The 1599 Dutch assault successful, 10-day assault by























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Moments in History ❮❮ 39


















Wartime shipping in the 1940s at Puerto de la Luz, the islands’ principal port
Franco Launches his
Dutch corsair Pieter van der Does 9
devastated the capital in 1599. Military Coup
Scores of churches and other When Spanish officials got wind of
historical buildings were sacked a rebellious general in March 1936,
and burnt during the attacks. they quickly shipped him off to the
Canary Islands. However, in July,
Mass Emigration
6 General Francisco Franco and his
Following Columbus’s
followers launched an uprising from
discovery of the New World, their headquarters in Las Palmas.
thousands of islanders headed It was the beginning of the Spanish
across the ocean, settling throughout Civil War. In 1939, Franco came to
the Americas from Texas to power and established Fascist rule.
Argentina. Most, however, made
for the Caribbean islands and
Venezuela. To this day, Venezuela
is known as the “eighth island”
because of its strong family links
with the Canarian archipelago.
Boom and Bust
7
Contact with Latin America
led to fierce competition, and Gran
Canaria’s sugar cane industry was
ruined by tumbling prices. The wine
and cochineal (food colouring) trades
went the same way, and, by the end General Franco in Las Palmas
of the 19th century, things were
Tourism Takes Hold
looking desperate, rekindling the 0
mass exodus to Latin America. After the failed industries of
earlier centuries, the islands needed
Getting Connected
8 a more stable source of income.
The development of Puerto
Salvation arrived in the 1960s in
de la Luz in 1881 was to change the the form of mass construction, and
island’s fortunes forever. It soon tomato plantations were soon giving
became the archipelago’s principal way to hotels. Tourism is now the
port and today it is one of Europe’s pillar of the islands’ economy. Rather
largest. The Canary Islands’ first than somewhere to escape from,
airport was built halfway down Gran Canaria has now become a
Gran Canaria’s east coast in 1930. favoured destination for visitors.



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40 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Historical Buildings


Teatro Pérez Galdós,
1 channels are no less important,
Las Palmas
so it’s fitting that the water board
MAP M5 • Plaza de Stagno 1 should have such grand
• www.teatroperezgaldos.es headquarters. Completed in the
Little remains of the original early 20th century, the building is
19th-century structure, almost topped by an elegant dome.
completely destroyed by fire. Today’s
Finca Condal,
theatre is the result of a restoration 4
project by architects Marcos Roger Juan Grande
Berghänel and Carlos Díaz. MAP E5 • GC-500
There’s no denying the splendour of
the Count of Vega Grande’s former
home, now a popular events venue.
Dating back to the 16th century, the
low, whitewashed house is topped by
a red-tiled roof. Next door there is a
church, which was built around the
same time and has been restored it
to its former glory in renovations.
Windmills, La Aldea
5
Teatro Pérez Galdós, Las Palmas de San Nicolás
MAP B3
Castillo de la Luz
2 On the road from the old town to the
coast, there are two fine windmills,
The island’s oldest and best
example of military architecture built in the 19th century and now
dates from the 15th century; it was restored. The watermill on the road to
severely damaged in 1599 by Artenara is still in working order and
Dutch pirates and has been has become a delightful casa rural.
extensively restored since. Casa de Colón, Las
Heredad de Aguas,
Palmas
3 6
Arucas
Although heavily restored, this
MAP D2 • C/La Heredad 1 exquisite building reveals traces of
Without their sophisticated irrigation its 15th-century roots. Together with
system, the inhabitants of Arucas several other adjoining houses, this
would not have enjoyed the is now the home of the Christopher
prosperity they did during the sugar Columbus museum (see pp12–13).
cane years. These days bananas
are the main crop, but the water Casa de Colón, Las Palmas
















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Historical Buildings ❮❮ 41

Casa de los Quintana,
7 TOP 10 MODERN BUILDINGS
Santa María de Guía
MAP C1 • Plaza Mayor de Guía
Only the presence of a goat and a
plate of gofio could make this house
look more Canarian. A small dragon
tree stands by the entrance to the
picturesque 17th-century structure,
with its superlative balcony. Home of
the town’s first mayor, it bears his
family coat of arms.
Casa de los Patronos
8 Auditorio Alfredo Kraus
de la Virgen, Teror
1 Auditorio Alfredo Kraus,
A pristine example of Canarian Las Palmas
architecture, complete with an Oscar Tusquets’ beachfront
interior patio and rickety-looking masterpiece (see p75).
wooden balconies (see p25). 2 Palacio de Congresos,
Maspalomas
Cuartel de El Colmenar,
9 MAP D6 • Plaza de las Convenciones
Valsequillo
This circular glass edifice is an
MAP E3 • Colmenar Bajo important conference centre.
Originally a cavalry barracks, 3 Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón
this fine example of Canarian de Jesus, Balos
architecture, built in 1530, is a MAP E4
A church with an asymmetrical roof
contender for the title of Gran and monochrome stained glass.
Canaria’s oldest building.
4 Police Station, Las Palmas
MAP J4 • C/Alcalde Bethencourt
Locals either love or loathe this
multicoloured tower.
5 El Muelle, Las Palmas
An award-winning Modernist mall
opened in 2003 (see p77).
6 AC Hotel, Las Palmas
MAP P2 • C/Eduardo Benot 3
By night, lights illuminate this grand
13-storey, cylindrical hotel.
7 Urbanización Turística, Puerto
de Mogán
MAP B5
A striking, white bougainvillea-
draped tourist complex.
Gabinete Literario, Las Palmas 8 Gobierno de Canarias, Las Palmas
Gabinete Literario,
0 MAP H3 • C/León y Castillo 57
This pleasing government structure fits
Las Palmas
MAP L5 • Plaza de Cairasco in well with its surroundings.
9 Biblioteca Pública del Estado,
The grand façade is striking, but you Las Palmas
have to step inside this Modernist MAP K5 • Avda Marítima
masterpiece to fully appreciate its Agreeably asymmetrical, this huge
splendour. The interior is lavishly library was built in 2002.
decked out in fine Renaissance style, 10 Cabildo Insular, Las Palmas
setting it apart from other buildings MAP L4 • C/Bravo Murillo
in the capital. Once the location of The island’s finest example of Spanish
the city’s first theatre, it is now rationalist architecture.
home to a cultural centre.


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42 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Guanche Sites


inhabited by Guanches
Gáldar San Costa Las Palmas de now house 21st-century
Andrés GC-2
Ayala Gran Canaria
troglodytes, but the
Agaete Moya Arucas Vegueta stone constructions are
GC-70 GC-75 GC-3 San still in their original state.
Fontanales Tafira Cristobal Dominating the scene
El Risco Teror
Valleseco GC-1 is an immense tagoror
Santa
Artenara Tejeda Brígida (stone circle), where
GC-210 Telde the elders would meet
El Carrizal Valsequillo to make important
Cazadores Tufia
GC-130 GC-100 decisions (see p96).
Ayacata
Santa Lucía
GC-550
San Bartolomé de Tirajana Ingenio Túmulo de
de Tirajana 3
Agüimes La Guancha
Mogán Fataga GC-65 GC-1 Though rather average
GC-200 Arteara Vecindario Arinaga when compared to
Puerto de Mogán GC-60 0 km 10 the tombs of Egyptian
royalty, this Guanche
0 miles 10 cemetery outshines
others scattered around
the island. It’s thought
that the central sepulchre contained
the guanarteme (king), while the
aristocracy were laid to rest around
him (see p84).
Roque Bentayga
4
Numerous dwellings and
grain stores have been unearthed
around this huge monolith, the
remnant of a volcanic crater,
which was considered sacred by
the Guanches (see p28 & p87).
The tiny caves of Cenobio de Valerón Roque Bentayga
Cenobio de Valerón
1
Built without the use
of modern tools, this cluster of
miniature artificial caves represents
an awe-inspiring feat of early
engineering. For years, experts
believed it to be a convent, but it is
now widely agreed that the caves
were used to store grain (see p82).
Tufia
2
This settlement is unusual
as it has examples of both types of
aboriginal home common to the
island: cave dwellings, and the low
stone houses unique to Gran
Canaria. The coastal caves once



042-043_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 42 22/12/2016 17:09

Guanche Sites ❮❮ 43

Maipés de Arriba
8
MAP C2
Featuring around 500 tombs, the
Maipés de Arriba may have been
the principal burial ground for lowly
Guanches. Look out for the different
styles of tomb, particularly the
circular towers, which were almost
certainly the last resting place of
aboriginal aristocracy. A similar
site closer to the coast, the Maipés
de Abajo, was destroyed by modern
development; there’s a small-
scale reproduction of it in Puerto
de las Nieves (see p34).
Cañada de los Gatos
9
MAP B5 • C/La Puntilla • 638
81 06 21. Open Tue–Sun 10am–5pm
(6pm in summer) • Adm
At this recently excavated coastal
settlement at the mouth of the
Mogán ravine, pathways lead
The atmospheric Cuatro Puertas around the well-preserved
remains of 1,300-year-old
Cuatro Puertas
5 houses, burial pits and caves.
If other aboriginal sites on the
There’s also a café on site.
island fail to impress, visit Cuatro
Puertas. This is the most remarkable
man-made cave on Gran Canaria and
in the whole archipelago. The large
room with four “doors” was once
a sacred place. A clear path marks
the route around the site (see p97).
Arteara
6
The island’s most important
Guanche burial site is in an impressive
location, nestled in a palm grove in
the Fataga ravine. Making out the
circular tombs among the debris
of a stark lava field is not easy,
but information panels help you Paintings in Cueva Pintada
to differentiate the sepulchres from
Cueva Pintada
the other rocks. The site covers an 0
area 2 km (1 mile) wide (see p101). In 1860, a local farmer
stumbled across this painted cave,
La Fortaleza de Ansite
7 uncovering probably the most
important archaeological find – and
MAP D4
The Guanches’ last stronghold is pitted certainly the finest set of aboriginal
with caves overlooking the Tirajana paintings – in the whole archipelago.
ravine. You can imagine the islanders’ In 2006, after more than 20 years of
terrible plight as they tried to repel repairs, the Cueva Pintada reopened
the Spaniards, then threw themselves to the public. The 3D film transports
into the ravine shouting the patriotic you back in time to the beginning of
motto “Atis Tirma” (For My Land). the Spanish conquest (see p81).



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44 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Museums




















Display in Museo Elder de la Ciencia y la Tecnología, Las Palmas
Museo Elder de la
1 and interesting past that warrants
Ciencia y la Tecnología,
a museum in its honour. Visitors
Las Palmas can learn about the area’s many
The capital’s science museum offers ancient legends and superstitions,
a perfect blend of education and a product of its great ethnic mix.
entertainment, with plenty of Displayed in a handsome 17th-
interactive exhibits to keep visitors century mansion, the exhibits are
of all ages amused (see p73). well laid out, and information is
provided in three languages.
Casa de Colón,
2 Casa-Museo Antonio
Las Palmas
Padrón, Gáldar
Take a fascinating journey through 5
the history of navigation and the Many of Antonio Padrón’s colourful
discovery of America in the lovely paintings portray Canarian customs
setting of one of the island’s most and daily life, though the collection
attractive buildings (see pp12–13). here does include a number of
his Expressionist works. The
Museo de Guayadeque
3 museum is set on the main
Cave living, past
pedestrianized street in
and present, gets its own his home town (see p80).
absorbing museum in a
Casa de los
spectacular ravine setting. 6
There are some fascinating Patronos de
archaeological finds on la Virgen, Teror
display (see p32). The patrons of Gran
Canaria’s most important
Museo de Historia
4 statue of the Virgin
de Agüimes
resided for centuries in
MAP E4 • C/Juan Alvarado this sparkling example
y Saz 42 • 928 78 54 53 of Canarian architecture.
• Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun Today it is preserved as
• Adm • No disabled access a museum, complete
Inhabited since Guanche Exhibit in Casa de with period furniture
times, Agüimes has a full Colón, Las Palmas and paintings (see p25).
044-045_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 44 22/12/2016 17:09

Museums ❮❮ 45

Museo Canario,
7 TOP 10 MUSEUM EXHIBITS
Las Palmas
A mesmerizing peek into the life 1 Poema del Atlántico,
of the Guanches, Gran Canaria’s Museo Néstor
enigmatic pre-Hispanic inhabitants, Néstor’s magnum opus shows the
is provided here. There are some ocean at different times of day.
superb exhibits unearthed from 2 Drawing Room, Casa de los
around the island (see pp16–17). Patronos de la Virgen
This room contains some fine antique
Museo Néstor,
8 furniture and portraits.
Las Palmas
3 Piedad, Casa Museo Antonio
Admire the finest works of Gran Padrón
Canarian Modernist maestro Néstor Antonio Padrón’s final painting – he
Martín Fernández de la Torre in the died before completing it.
Pueblo Canario, designed and built 4 Foucault’s Pendulum, Museo
in the 1930s by the artist’s brother Elder de la Ciencia y la Tecnología
Miguel. One of the museum’s Watch this massive pendulum
highlights, the eight-panel Poema gradually knocking over small posts,
proving that the earth rotates.
del Atlántico is widely considered to
be the artist’s finest work, though 5 Idolo de Tara, Museo Canario
the sensitivity shown in Poema de la This terracotta figure, thought to be a
Tierra is also remarkable (see p74). fertility symbol, is the island’s largest
and most important pre-Hispanic idol.
6 Poema de la Tierra, Museo Néstor
This reflective work depicts the seasons
and the times of day.
7 Astrolabe, Casa de Colón
This 15th-century metal navigational
device is one of a kind.
8 Watermill, Museo de Guayadeque
An interactive model explains the
workings of a watermill.
9 Superstitions and Witchcraft,
Museo de Historia de Agüimes
Spinning panels relate the surprising
beliefs of early settlers.
10 Workshop, Ecomuseo
Painting in Museo Néstor, Las Palmas Casa-Alfar Panchito
Gain an insight into Guanche pottery
Ecomuseo Casa-Alfar
9 at this ceramics maestro’s workshop.
Panchito, La Atalaya
MAP E3 • Camino de la Picota 11
• 928 28 82 70 • Open 10am–2pm
daily • Adm
Visit the former cave home and
workshop of a master of traditional
Guanche pottery, and see a side of
Canarian life that is all but lost.
CAAM, Las Palmas
0
Set in the historic quarter
of Las Palmas is this ultra-
modern art gallery, which mounts
temporary exhibitions by Spanish,
African and Latin-American artists Poema de la Tierra, Museo Néstor
(see p76).






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46 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Churches


Catedral de Santa Ana,
3
Las Palmas
Extending across 7,000 sq m
(75,350 sq ft), the capital’s cathedral
is an impressive blend of architectural
styles. Some important Luján Pérez
sculptures and remnants of the
original Gothic structure can be
seen inside (see pp14–15).
Basílica de San Juan
4
Templo Parroquial de San Sebastián Bautista, Telde
The façade of Telde’s main church is
Templo Parroquial de
1 as forbidding as its heavy wooden
San Sebastián, Agüimes
door, evoking thoughts of medieval
MAP E4 • Plaza Nuestra Señora castles. Inside, a Flemish altarpiece,
del Rosario among the most precious works of
Follow the maze of cobbled alleys in art in the Canary Islands, outshines
Agüimes and eventually you’ll reach the main Baroque altarpiece.
the magnificent Templo Parroquial The figure of Christ was modelled
de San Sebastián. A supreme from corn paste by Michoacan
example of Canarian Neo-Classical Mexicans in 1550 (see p98).
architecture, it has the air of a
Iglesia de la Candelaria,
cathedral rather than a church. 5
Although started in 1796, the church Ingenio
was not completed until 1940. MAP E4 • C/Hermanos Fullana 5
This 20th-century church features
Iglesia de Nuestra
2 sculptures of San José and San Blás
Señora de la
by Luján Pérez (see p15).
Concepción, Agaete
Basílica de Nuestra
MAP C2 • C/Juan Valls y Roca 1 6
The bright red dome crowning Señora del Pino, Teror
Agaete’s church sets it apart from Rebuilt and renovated countless
other churches built in a similar times, this immense basilica draws
Neo-Classical style. many pilgrims (see pp26–7).













Lofty interior of Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pino, Teror






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Churches ❮❮ 47

Parroquia de
7 TOP 10 ERMITAS
Nuestra Señora
de la Candelaria, Moya
This large 20th-century church,
with twin bell towers, is the focal
point of sleepy Moya, but its most
memorable feature is its vertiginous
location, perched precariously atop
a rugged ravine (see p82).



Ermita de la Virgen de la Cuevita
1 Ermita de la Virgen de la Cuevita,
Artenara
The patron saint of cyclists resides in
this small rock-face chapel (see p87).
2 Ermita de las Nieves, Puerto de
las Nieves
This church started out as a shrine in a
15th-century fortified tower (see p35).
3 Ermita de San Antonio Abad,
Las Palmas
Columbus is said to have prayed here
before his trip to the New World (see p13).
4 Ermita de la Inmaculada
Concepción, La Atalaya
MAP E3 • Calle La Concepción
This simple 18th-century church
Parroquia de San Juan Bautista resembles a rural house.
Parroquia de San Juan
8 5 Ermita de San Telmo, Las Palmas
Rebuilt in 1694, the original church was
Bautista, Arucas
Behind the ornate façade of the destroyed by Dutch pirates (see p76).
island’s most striking church, built 6 Ermita de San Isidro, San Isidro
MAP D3
largely from volcanic rock, lies an Forebears of the current owners built
equally impressive interior full of this pleasing 17th-century church.
sculptures, stained-glass windows
and a grand altarpiece (see p82). 7 Ermita de San Sebastián, Agaete
MAP C2 • Calle Pescadores
Iglesia de Santa Lucía,
9 This mudéjar-style hermitage has an
elaborate ceiling.
Santa Lucía de Tirajana
MAP D4 • Plaza de Santa Lucía 8 Ermita de San Isidro el Viejo,
Gáldar
Built in 1905, this pretty church MAP C1 • Carretera de Caideros
looks rather like a mosque, owing This mosque-like building is perhaps
to its pronounced dome. the island’s smallest place of worship.
Iglesia de Santiago de
0 9 Ermita de San Roque, Valsequillo
MAP E3 • Plaza de San Roque
los Caballeros, Gáldar
MAP C1 • Plaza de Santiago This 20th-century church is backed by
an impressive palm grove.
Unusually, this church was built 10 Ermita de Ayacata, Ayacata
in a blend of Baroque and Neo- (near Vecindario)
Classical styles. Check out the pila MAP E5
verde (green font), allegedly where In February, this church is completely
Canarians were baptized when the enveloped in almond blossom.
Spanish first took over.
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48 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Beauty Spots


Montañón Negro
Los Tilos de Moya
1 4
MAP C3
Outside of the Botanical Garden,
Canarian pine stands out against this is Gran Canaria’s only area of
the stark black landscape of Gran laurisilva (see p19). Stroll through this
Canaria’s most recent, yet long- lost world of vegetation, almost wiped
extinct, volcano. Its last eruption out in Europe in the last ice age.
some 3,000 years ago left a deep Myrtle and heather flourish alongside
and arresting crater, the Caldera the many laurel species (see p82).
de los Pinos de Gáldar.
Barranco de los
5
Cernícalos
MAP E3
This ravine has year-round running
water, a rarity on Gran Canaria.
Admire the changing vegetation as
you reach the highest waterfall on
an easy walk that takes you through
willow trees and olive groves. Look
out for flora unique to the island,
such as the vivid orange Canarian
bellflower and Tenteniguada viper’s
Los Azulejos – multicoloured cliffs bugloss, noted for its blue conical
flowers. Access is via Lomo Magullo.
Los Azulejos
2 Barranco de
MAP B4
Guayadeque
As you reach Mogán from La Aldea 6
de San Nicolás, the sparse cliffs Fascinating flora, important heritage
suddenly light up with a rainbow of and an unusual way of life coexist in
colours, ranging from blue to brown the most spectacular of Gran
and passing through every shade of Canaria’s ravines (see pp32–3).
green and yellow. In winter, small
Parque Natural
waterfalls trickle down the cliffs, 7
further enhancing their beauty. de Pilancones
MAP C4–5 & D4–5
Dunas de Maspalomas
3 Though not as lush or as dense as
its northern counterpart, Tamadaba,
If you’re feeling energetic,
take the tough trek through these Pilancones is still impressive. Almost
magnificent, golden, shifting sand 5,800 ha (14,332 acres) of Canarian
dunes to the point where the hotels pine forest, it’s an unrivalled place
peter out and nothing but sand can for bird-watching. Look out for the
be seen (see pp20–21). great spotted woodpecker.
The impressive Dunas de Maspalomas












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