(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Gran Canaria

Beauty Spots ❮❮ 49



TOP 10 LOCAL FAUNA
1 Gran Canaria Giant Lizard
(Gallotia stehlini)
Up to 80 cm (31 inches) long, this lizard
can often be seen sitting on warm rocks.
2 Gran Canaria Skink
(Chalcides sexlineatus)
These small lizards usually scurry
off when humans approach.
3 Blue Chaffinch (Fringilla
teydea polatzeki)
Spot one in the pine forest north
of Mogán, if you’re lucky.
4 Great Spotted Woodpecker
(Dendrocopos major)
These birds are black and white, with
a flash of orange feathers. They are
endangered, but seen in the pine forests.
The stunning Presa de las Niñas
5 Berthelot’s Pipit (Anthus
Presa de las Niñas
8 berthelotii Bolle)
Another, more common, fan of the
The island’s most attractive
reservoir is also its most popular. island’s pine forests.
On weekends, especially, you will 6 Common Kestrel (Falco
have to share its beauty with more tinnunculus Linnaeus)
than a few picnickers. In the week, Abundant, but still impressive; look out
however, it’s less busy, and you can for the mottled wings of this bird of prey.
enjoy a peaceful stroll in the small 7 Barbary Falcon (Falco
pine wood and imagine perhaps that pelegrinoides Temminck)
you are in Canada rather than the This bird is difficult to spot, especially
Canaries. There is also a well- as it has no preferred habitat.
equipped picnic area and camp site 8 Red-legged Partridge
here, though you will need a permit (Alectoris rufa)
from the cabildo (council) to make Widespread across Gran Canaria, but
use of the latter (see pp102–3). rarely seen on neighbouring islands.
9 Stone Curlew (Burhinus
Pinar de Tamadaba
9 oedicnemus)
The stone curlew has its home in the
Enjoy the view from this
peaceful spot, rich in Canarian pine northern ravines, where its habitat
is sadly now under threat.
and home to some incredibly rare
endemic flowers, found only in this 10 Lesser Short-Toed Lark
corner of the island. In the Guanche (Callendrella rufescens)
Its tawny crown appears in arid zones
language, Tamadaba meant from Telde to Mogán.
“hollow”, though much of the
forest is in fact higher than the
surrounding land (see p89). Gran Canaria Skink
Jardín Botánico
0
Viera y Clavijo
Enjoy the riches of Canarian flora
in this perfectly laid-out garden,
an easy day trip from the capital,
Las Palmas. As well as native plants,
there’s a variety of tropical and
imported species that thrive in the
island’s mild climate (see pp18–19).


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50 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Beaches


opportunities. Though
Gáldar San Andrés GC-2 easy to reach, this east-
GC-2 Moya Arucas Las Palmas de coast beach is often
Agaete GC-21 Gran Canaria deserted, as the majority
GC-75 GC-3 San of holidaymakers prefer
Cristobal
GC-200 Teror the guaranteed good
Puerto de Artenara Santa Brígida Tafira GC-1
la Aldea weather further south.
GC-210 Tejeda San Mateo Telde Watch the planes take off
San Nicolás and land at the nearby
de Tolentino Ayacata Cazadores
Santa Lucía airport, or contemplate
Tasarte San Bartolomé de Tirajana Ingenio the aboriginal ruins at
de Tirajana
Agüimes Tufia (see p96).
Fataga
Mogán Arinaga
GC-200 Arteara Vecindario 3
Montaña Arena
Puerto de GC-60 MAP C6
Mogán
GC-1 Juan Grande
Puerto Rico Playa del San Agustín Untouched by the
El Pujar Inglés swathe of development
0 km 10
that plagues the south
Maspalomas 0 miles 10 coast, this stretch of dark
sand has no amenities.
Favoured by nudists, it is away from
the crowds without being too far
from civilization. To get there, park
at the camp site west of Pasito Blanco,
head for the stony beach and take a
vertiginous path to the left.
San Agustín
4
MAP F4
Most of the bathers here are Canarian
daytrippers from the capital, but
some tourists are getting wise to
Playa del Inglés is popular with tourists this gem. Calm waters border the
black-sand beach, split into three
Playa del Inglés
1 sections by rocky outcrops.
MAP D6
Maspalomas’s closest neighbour The black sands of San Agustín
is one of the island’s busiest
beaches, but it’s large enough for
all to enjoy its fine golden sand.
For those who like a few amenities
while they bathe, there’s no lack
of bars or sunloungers and, as you’d
expect, the resort here is well served
with restaurants and hotels (see p105
and pp113–15).
Aguadulce
2
MAP F3
Below the Guanche settlement of
Tufia lies a quiet, sheltered cove
with 140 m (459 ft) of golden sand,
and good snorkelling and diving
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Beaches ❮❮ 51



















The beach at Maspalomas, with a backdrop of spectacular sand dunes
Maspalomas
Amadores
5 9
Although it’s one of the islands’
MAP B5
largest resorts, this is an un rivalled Located in the sunniest part of the
place to sunbathe, bordered by the island, Amadores offers a crescent
dazzling sand dunes (see pp20–21). of golden sand with plentiful facilities,
such as windsurfing, diving and
Veneguera
6 boat excursions, as well as a large
number of restaurants and bars.
MAP B5
This is another pristine beach The fabulous cliff walk between
favoured by nudists. After Veneguera Amadores and nearby Puerto Rico
village the roads are only passable gives superb views of the beach.
with a four-wheel drive. Those in
other vehicles can park and walk
the last section. Backed by towering
cliffs, the black sand and pebbles are
lapped by a calm stretch of ocean.
Las Burras
7
MAP D6
If you don’t mind a bit of wind, Las
Burras makes a good alternative to
the busier resort beaches further
along the coast. A favourite with
locals, the calm waters are perfect
for those with children. Crescent-shaped bay at Amadores
Las Canteras
El Juncal
8 0
Map N2
MAP B2
Few sun-seekers venture to this Swim with the fish in the crystalline
secluded cove, but those who do are waters of the capital’s 2.8-km (1.7-
rewarded with exceptionally calm mile) golden beach. A rocky reef
waters surrounded by stunning cliffs. keeps the waves back, making this
From the GC-2 heading west, take the a superb place for families to swim.
exit after km 29, then keep heading Further south, the reef ends and
left through the tomato plantations. surfers take advantage of the breaks.
Once you reach a plain, park and walk If you prefer to stay dry, take a gentle
the last 20 minutes down the ravine stroll along the promenade, stopping
that gives the beach its name. in La Puntilla for a seafood lunch.


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52 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Marine Activities
















Windsurfers enjoy riding the waves in Pozo Izquierdo
Surfing
1 Marine species from Europe, Africa
and even the Caribbean mingle here,
PRO Surfing: 628 10 40 25;
www.prsurfing.com and the high number of shipwrecks
Few European destinations offer adds extra interest. Playa del
such good surf as Gran Canaria, Cabrón, Pasito Blanco and Sardina
a fact made clear by the number del Norte all offer superlative dives,
of blond-streaked enthusiasts in while the bulk of the wrecks are off
search of the perfect wave. Schools the coast of Las Palmas.
operate across the island, although
Swimming
the rougher northern coast has 3
more appeal for experts. Canarian waters are blessed
with a lack of anything that bites. On
Diving
2 the other hand, do not expect warm
seas, as this is the Atlantic. The south
Sunsub: 928 77 81 65; www.
sunsub.com • 7 Mares: 928 46 00 35; and east coasts are generally safe,
www.7mares.es though currents and strong waves
Whether your interest is marine life plague the north and west. If you
or sunken ships, diving in the seas fancy a dip in the north, head for
off Gran Canaria is a satisfying affair. one of the natural pools (see p84).
Windsurfing
Diving off the coast of Gran Canaria 4
Centro Internacional
de Windsurfing: 928 12 14 00;
www. pozo-ciw.com
Pozo Izquierdo plays host to an
international competition in the
summer, though its waters are not
suited for novices. The school here
takes those starting out in the sport
to calmer seas until they are up to
windsurfing with the experts.
Stand Up Paddle
5
Boarding
Las Alcaravaneras and Las Canteras
are great beaches to try stand up
paddle boarding. You can also try it at
night through Mojosurf at the latter.




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Marine Activities ❮❮ 53

Snorkelling
6 TOP 10 UNDERWATER
Gran Canaria is superb for
snorkelling. There’s no need to ENCOUNTERS
stray further than the capital’s beach,
Las Canteras, for encounters with
parrotfish, octopus, ornate wrasse
and countless species of sea bream.
Fishing
7
Dorado: 664 089 50 • www.
marlincanariasportfishing.com
Gran Canaria has fishing aplenty. Parrotfish, a frequent sight
The best deep-sea trips are out of
Puerto Rico, where tuna, marlin and 1 Parrotfish
swordfish abound in summer. Whether you’re snorkelling or on a
deep dive, you are almost guaranteed
Boat Trips
8 to see the island’s most emblematic
underwater creature.
Charter a luxury yacht, gaze
down into the ocean from a glass- 2 Bluefin Damselfish
bottomed boat, or live it up on a These fish are abundant, but you won’t
tire of seeing the vivid blue glint
booze cruise. Puerto Rico is the contrasted against the black scales.
best place from which to set sail,
but there are also trips from Las 3 Angel Shark
Palmas and Playa del Inglés. This is the most commonly sighted
shark, often mistaken for a ray owing
to its flat body.
4 Ornate Wrasse
The blue-green shimmer of the ornate
wrasse is a familiar but pleasing sight
on any dive from Gran Canaria.
5 Octopus
A creature that frequently lurks on the
seabed, but can be seen from surface
level down to 100 m (330 ft).
6 Spiny Butterfly Ray
This mottled fish, which measures
Sailing boats in Puerto de Mogán up to 1.5 m (5 ft), often hides,
Sailing
9 unnoticed, in the sand.
7 Tiger Moray
Atlantic Islands Sail Training
Centre: 928 56 59 31; www.aistrac.com One of a number of serpentine fish,
the Tiger Moray is unmistakable,
Whether you want to hire a boat with its bright yellow skin and
and go it alone, or learn how to sail, evil-looking, fang-like teeth.
Gran Canaria offers plenty of 8 Trumpetfish
possibilities. The season is from A comical species that can change
April to October, though enthusiasts colour according to its mood.
can be catered for all year round. Frequently seen on deeper dives.
Kayaking
0 9 Scorpionfish
Numerous species of this spiky fish
Canariaventura: 928 76 61 68;
www.canariaventura.com swim in the Canarian seas. They usually
favour rocky areas.
There is no better way to appreciate 10 Shipwrecks
the island’s diverse coastline than Ships have been sinking off these
from a kayak. Beginners can get shores ever since ports were built,
started at Playa de las Canteras, so there are wrecks aplenty sprinkled
while the more adventurous may like around the coast.
to join a tour of the southern coast.

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54 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Hiking


San Pedro to Tamadaba
1 leads you along the lush ravine,
where a stream trickles throughout
MAP C2
Beginning in the village of San Pedro the year. As well as appealing to
near the top of Agaete Valley, this lovers of flora, the hike rewards
8-hour circular route climbs steeply all with its impressive finale: a
into Tamadaba Park, passing series of ever-higher waterfalls.
abandoned cave houses in El Allow about 3 hours for this out-
Hornillo, to reach the splendid and-back hiking trip.
Peréz and Lugarejos reservoirs.
Caldera de Bandama
5
Formed 2000 years ago, when
a magma chamber collapsed in on
itself, this classic circular walk,
taking 1.5 hours, descends to the
floor of the crater, covered in
endemic flora (see p95).
Santa Lucía de Tirajana
6
to Fortaleza de Ansite
MAP D4
This 3-hour hike leads you through
idyllic countryside to the Fortaleza
de Ansite. Take the path leading from
km 49 of the GC-65, then keep left
at all forks. While here, visit the
dazzling La Sorrueda reservoir.
Roque Nublo
7
San Pedro to Tamadaba MAP C3
This challenging circular route takes
Camino de la Plata
2 7 hours and is considered one of the
MAP D3
best walks on the island. It climbs
In the 19th century this route along from the mountain village of Tejeda
the old camino real was improved to to Roque Nublo before continuing to
allow people and their donkeys to Roque Bentayga and descending
travel over the Highlands to Ayacata. back into Tejeda Valley.
Allow 2.5 hours.
Cruz de Tejeda
3 Hikers descending from Roque Nublo
to Artenara
MAP D3
This demanding, 8-hour circular route
follows the Tejeda Barranco border
with views over Roque Nublo and
Roque Bentayga, and on a clear day,
across to Mount Teide on Tenerife.
The return is via Roque Bentayga.
Barranco de
4
los Cernícalos
MAP E3
Take the road out of Lomo Magullo
towards Los Arenales. A clear path





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Hiking ❮❮ 55

The Dam Circuit
8 TOP 10 HIKING TIPS
MAP C4–D4
This breathtaking hike skirts three of
the island’s reservoirs. Starting from
the GC-605 north of Presa de las
Niñas, it hugs the Soria dam and
passes north of Chira. The walk
takes 7 hours and ends at Cruz
Grande, but you could break for
the night at Los Cercados.







Hiking in Gran Canaria
1 It’s always advisable to wear strong
sun screen and a hat when hiking,
whatever the time of year.
2 In the mountains, temperatures can
be considerably cooler (and much
Trail heading towards Chira hotter in summer) than on the coast.
It’s best to wear layers.
Cruz Grande
9 3 Make sure you carry sufficient water
for everyone in the group; one litre
MAP D4
This easy route, taking 4.5 hours, per person is advised.
starts and ends in Degollada de Cruz 4 On long hikes, you should think
Grande and follows a path through about setting off early to avoid the
the Parque Natural de Pilancones, worst heat of the day.
an area rich in native orchids, 5 Check the weather forecast before
lavender and Black Bugloss. you set off and don’t go hiking if there
is any kind of weather alert in place.
Around Chira
0 The website www.aemet.es is the most
reliable place to check.
MAP C4
From the Degollada de Cruz Grande, 6 It’s not advisable to go walking in
this circular trail traverses a ridge to the mountains in July, August or
reach the lake at Chira. Crossing the September. The higher you get, the
lake dam, it returns via a series of hotter it can become. Heat exhaustion
is common at this time of year and
Hikers descending from Roque Nublo viewpoints. Allow 2.5 hours. deaths have been known.
7 Volcanic terrain can be really tough
under foot; make sure you wear
proper hiking boots with a good level
of ankle support.
8 Hiking poles are a good idea to help
cope with steep ascents and descents.
9 Mountain routes can be vertiginous;
always check directions and heights
before you set out.
10 Unless you’re hiking to a known
lunch spot, make sure you always take
a packed lunch.






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56 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Drives and Cycle Routes


Agüimes to Maspalomas
Mogán to Pico de
1 3
via Temisas, Santa Lucía
las Nieves (drive)
de Tirajana and Fataga (drive) MAP B4–D3
MAP E4–D6 After heavy rain, waterfalls appear
Break up this winding drive with stops along the winding road that leads to
at Temisas (see p96) and Fataga (see the island’s highest point (see p28).
p100), and at the mirador (viewpoint)
Tamadaba (drive)
on the road to Maspalomas. A detour 4
takes you to La Sorrueda reservoir and MAP C3
on to La Fortaleza de Ansite (see p43), The glorious views and lush scenery
south of Santa Lucía de Tirajana. make this circular drive a favourite.
Follow the GC-216 from Cruz de
Acusa, near Artenara, and take the
loop around Gran Canaria’s finest
pine forest. The road is one-way.
Maspalomas (cycle route)
5
MAP D6–5
A short but testing 26 km (16 miles)
from Maspalomas, the GC-503 takes
you north of the Aquapark. Following
the GC-504, the road climbs up to the
View on the Gáldar to Moya drive reservoir at Ayagaures before steeply
ascending to Cima Pedro González
Gáldar to Moya via
2 and finally dropping back to the coast
Fontanales (drive)
along the GC-503.
MAP C1–D2
The West Coast (drive)
The GC-220 passes Hoya de Pineda, 6
a troglodyte village, before reaching MAP C2–B4
Pinos de Gáldar pine forest. Pause at Not for the faint-hearted, the road
the superb Mirador de Los Pinos de from Agaete (see p83) to Mogán
Gáldar before taking the GC-70 past (see p103) has stunning coastal views.
Fontanales and then a scenic side Stop off in Playa de la Aldea for lunch,
road, the GC-700, on to Moya (see p82). before turning inland. The village of
Veneguera merits a stop, and look out
Los Azulejos, on the West Coast drive for the cliffs of Los Azulejos (see p48).




















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Drives and Cycle Routes ❮❮ 57

Island Circuit
7 TOP 10 MIRADORS
(cycle route)
MAP B5
For those with the leg strength and
the stamina, this 190-km (118-mile)
circular route circumnavigates the
island, beginning and ending in Puerto
de Mogán. Riding entirely on paved
surfaces, you tackle testing gradients
into the mountains and Tamadaba
(see p89), before skirting Las Palmas
and following the coast south.
Teror to Artenara (drive)
8 View from Degollada de la Becerra
MAP D2–C3
The highlights of this drive along the 1 Pico de Bandama
MAP E3
GC-21 are the stretch overlooking From the crater’s peak, you can see the
the Barranco de Valsendero and two capital, coast and mountains.
stunning miradors, Balcón de Zamora 2 Pico de las Nieves
and Los Pinos de Gáldar (see p89). Lucky visitors can see the coast from
the island’s highest point, but many
get only mist (see p28).
3 Degollada de la Becerra
On a clear day, Mount Teide makes a
fine backdrop to this already stunning
view of Roque Bentayga, Tejeda and
the Acusa flatlands (see p29).
4 Degollada de las Palomas
MAP D3
A window over the Tejeda ravine, this
viewpoint is great for spotting hawks.
5 Mirador del Balcón, La Aldea de
Part of the drive from Teror to Artenara San Nicolás
Mogán to Soria
9 After driving the white-knuckle west
coast, catch your breath and admire
(cycle route)
the stunning sheer cliffs (see p90).
MAP B4–C6 6 Mirador de la Montaña de Arucas
An arduous ride from Mogán through MAP D2
the Tauropass (see p102) is one of A viewpoint and restaurant with views
Spain’s best climbs. From the beautiful over Las Palmas, Arucas and the ocean.
Soria reservoir, the descent takes you 7 Barranco de Fataga
down to Arguineguín (see p64) for the MAP D4
coastal ride back to Mogán. A breath- A mirador with a superb view over
taking 68-km (42-mile) round trip. the Fataga ravine.
8 Cima Pedro González
Playa del Inglés to
0 MAP D4
Santa Lucía de Tirajana
The Ayagaures dam, with its pretty rural
(cycle route) village, is visible at the end of the ravine.
MAP D6–4 9 Cruz Grande
This 73-km (45-mile) route climbs Admire views over the Barranco de las
from Playa del Inglés (see p50) Tederas and Pilancones forest (see p48).
through Sardina del Sur and the Las 10 Los Pinos de Gáldar
Carboneras mountains to reach Santa MAP C2
Lucía de Tirajana (see p103) and Tunte. Look into the depths of the imposing
The return descent through Fataga is crater, dotted with Canarian pine trees.
a panoramic ride back to the coast.



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58 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Outdoor Activities


exception. Even if you’re not a
football fan, watching a match can be
a wonderful way to spend a Sunday
afternoon and a good way to get to
know the locals. Gran Canaria’s
biggest team, UD Las Palmas, play
in La Liga (the Spanish Premier
League) against major Spanish
football clubs such as Atlético
Madrid, Real Madrid and Barcelona.
Climbing
3
Gran Canarian golf course with a view Climbo: MAP C3; 636 89 84 93;
www.climborocks.com
Golf
1 Gran Canaria’s volcanic terrain –
Las Palmeras Golf: Avda Dr
in particular the central peaks – is
Alfonso Chiscano Díaz s/n; 928 22 23 simply a dream for climbers. Roque
33; www.laspalmerasgolf.es Nublo alone has 12 routes, while
Golfers are well catered for, with Ayacata is another top spot more
eight 18-hole courses, plus a few suited to beginners.
nine-hole pitch and putts. The mild
Parapente
climate has made golf a major draw. 4
Most courses are in the south, though Club Siroco: 606 42 46 85; www.
the Real Club de Golf (see p98) is just parapentegrancanariaclubsiroco.com
outside Las Palmas and the Las You don’t need to be super-fit to
Palmeras Golf Sport Urban Resort practise this adrenaline sport, but
is in Las Palmas itself. you do need a head for heights.
Beginners can try a tandem jump.
Football
2 Skydiving
Estadio de Gran Canaria:
Skydive Gran Canaria: 928 15
MAP E2; C/ Fondos de Segura s/n, 5
Las Palmas; 928 24 13 42; www.udlas 73 25; www.skydivegrancanaria.es
palmas.es For an alternative view of the
Most Spaniards love the “beautiful Maspalomas dunes, try jumping
game”, and Canarians are no out of a plane 3,500 m (11,480 ft)
above the resort – strapped to an
A UD Las Palmas football game instructor, of course.




















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Outdoor Activities ❮❮ 59

Jet Skiing
6 TOP 10 CANARIAN SPORTS STARS
Atlantic Wave: MAP C6; Pasito
Blanco; 622 23 03 10
Jet ski tours along the south and
west coasts of the island take in
caves and secluded beaches. For
more marine activities see pp52–3.
Canyoning
7
Canariaventura: 928 76 61
68; www.canariaventura.com
If you want to get to know parts
of the island untouched by most
visitors, you could take an excursion Tennis player Magüi Serna
that includes hiking through dense 1 Juan Carlos Valerón
vegetation and lowering yourself The talented former Primera Liga
into rocky clefts. The varied terrain football midfielder Valerón won
of the island makes it the perfect more than 40 international caps.
place for both novices and 2 Luis Doreste
experienced canyoners alike. With two Olympic gold medals,
Doreste is among Spain’s top sailing
stars. He’s the younger brother of
José Luis (see below).
3 Domingo Manrique
This four-time Olympian sailor won
a gold medal at Barcelona in 1992
with his team mate Doreste.
4 Adelina Taylor
Taylor was crowned 2001 Spanish and
European surfing champion.
5 Magüi Serna
At her peak in the 1990s, she was
Cycling along a coastal path ranked in the world’s top 20 female
tennis players.
Cycling
8 6 El Pollito de la Frontera
Free Motion: 928 77 74 79;
www.free-motion.com The “Little Chicken” was one of the
big names in Lucha Canaria (team
Hardcore cyclists lap up the challenge wrestling in a sand circle) after his
posed by the island’s mountain mid-1990s debut.
roads. Join an organized group tour 7 Hermanas Ruano
or just hire your own bike (see p109). Twin sisters Iballa and Daida regularly
rank first and second in international
Horse Riding
9 windsurfing competitions.
El Salobre: 616 41 83 63;
www.elsalobrehr.es 8 Björn Dunkerbeck
Although Danish originally, this
Although you can ride all year round, windsurfing star has long lived on
the winter months are more pleasant. the island. He was world champion
You can choose 2- or 3-hour tours, from 1988 through to 1999.
which take you into the mountains. 9 José Luis Doreste
Doreste sailed in every Olympiad from
Helicopter Rides
0 Montreal (1976) to Atlanta (1996),
winning gold at Seoul in 1988.
Islas Helicopters: 928 157 965
• www.islas-helicopters.com 10 Antonio Alfonso (Tonono)
You can book a 10- to 60-minute A UD Las Palmas legend, he played in
helicopter flight for a unique view the national team 22 times.
of the Gran Canarian landscape.


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60 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Children’s Attractions



















Visitors enjoying the Pirate’s River at Aqualand Maspalomas
Water Parks
Museo Elder de la
1 4
Ciencia y la Tecnología,
MAP C5 • Aqualand
Maspalomas, Ctra Palmitos Park, km 3 Las Palmas
• 928 14 05 25 • Open 10am–5pm When you arrive and see the mottos
daily (Jul–Aug 10am–6pm) • Adm “Forbidden not to touch” and
• www.aqualand.es/maspalomas “Museum is not mausoleum”, you
There are 33 slides at Aqualand know the kids are going to enjoy
Maspalomas, the largest water themselves. Favourites include the
park on the island. There is flight simulator, TV studio and Imax
a smaller water park in the cinema. There is also a science-
southwestern resort of Taurito. themed play area for the smallest
visitors, aged 3–6 (see p44 & p73).
Palmitos Park
2 Yellow Submarine,
The Chamoriscan ravine
Puerto de Mogán
provides a marvellous setting for 5
this tropical paradise, home to MAP B5 • 928 56 51 08 • Boats
primates, reptiles and countless leave hourly 10am–5pm daily
exotic birds. Regular shows feature • Adm • No disabled access
parrots and enormous birds of prey. • www.atlantidasubmarine.com
Other options include the aquarium, Descend 25 m (82 ft) below the
butterfly house and a large walk- surface of the waves on a 45-minute
through birdcage. The restaurant journey that takes in a shipwreck
serves traditional Canarian food and diverse marine life.
alongside more international
Angry Birds
offerings (see p102). 6
Activity Park
Sioux City Park,
3 MAP B5 • Avenida la Cornisa, 2, Puerto
San Agustín
Rico • 928 15 39 76 • Open 10am–
Spend a day in the Wild West and 8pm Mon–Fri, 11am–9pm Fri–Sat
experience daring bank hold-ups, • Adm
stampeding cattle and sudden shoot- A theme park based on the popular
outs. Friday night is barbecue night, video game, featuring an adventure
when parents can enjoy the saloon playground with trampolines, mini
and dancing girls, while the children go-karts, rides and arcade games.
are treated to a lasso show (see p101). An ideal spot for younger children.

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Children’s Attractions ❮❮ 61

Cocodrilo Park,
7 TOP 10 TIPS FOR FAMILIES
Corralillos
MAP E4 • GC-104, Ctra Los Coralillos,
km 5 • 928 78 47 25 • Open 10am–
5pm Sun–Fri (parrot show: noon;
crocodile feeding: 1pm) • Adm
Europe’s largest crocodile sanctuary
is also a haven for other mistreated
animals. There are over 300
crocodiles, tropical and Canarian
fish, other reptiles, tarantulas, a
parrot show and a family of tigers.
Hangar37
8 Children playing on the beach
MAP E5 • Carretera General
del Sur km 45 (behind Gran Karting 1 Sun
Club), Tarajalillo • 669 82 92 33 Use high-factor sunblock and keep
• Open 10am–8pm Sat–Mon, kids out of the midday sun.
3–8pm Tue–Fri • Adm 2 Sightseeing
Airsoft combat in a realistic war Under-12s often get half-price entry,
zone with tanks, jeeps, aircraft and children under the age of 5 go
free. Ask about family tickets.
and an assortment of tunnels
and bunkers. 3 Beaches
For a safer swim, head for the calm
Gran Karting Club
9 waters off the resorts of Las Canteras
and Arguineguín.
MAP E5 • Ctra General del Sur,
km 46 • 928 15 71 90 • Open 11am– 4 Noise
10pm daily • Adm • www.grankarting Canarians are incredibly tolerant of
noise, so don’t worry about your kids
club.es getting rowdy – except in churches.
Family fun with every thing from
mini cars for toddlers to pint-sized 5 Car Hire
If you need a child or baby seat, book
motorbikes and full-size go-karts. in advance, as smaller companies may
have limited numbers available.
6 Escape the Resorts
As an alternative to resort attractions,
consider horse riding in the mountains,
or visiting the capital’s parks.
7 Boat Trips
The best options are glass-bottomed
vessels or those that offer watersports.
8 Accommodation
An extra bed for a child under 12 is
usually half price and a cot is usually
gratis. Younger children often go free.
Lights of Holiday World, Maspalomas
9 Restaurants
Holiday World,
0 Canarians love children, although
upmarket places may be wary of
Maspalomas
MAP D6 • Avda Touroperador Tui accepting them, especially in the
evening. Children’s portions aren’t
• 928 73 04 98 • Open 6–11pm Sun– usually available.
Thu, 6pm–midnight Fri–Sat (summer), 10 Quiet Towns
5–11pm Sun–Thu, 5pm–midnight Fri– Small town centres such as Teror, Firgas
Sat (winter) • Adm and Agüimes are virtually traffic-free,
A funfair with carousels, bumper so you can feel safer about your
cars and a roller coaster that lights children wandering around.
up the sky in the south of the island.

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62 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Restaurants




















The bright interior of fine-dining restaurant 360º Bohemia
Casa Brito
360º Bohemia
1 3
Traditional decor, great service
MAP D6 • Avda Estados Unidos
28, Playa del Inglés • 928 56 34 00 • €€ and a wood-burning grill provide
Gourmet cuisine from Chef Xavier the sights and tastes of rustic Gran
Franquet, with 360° views over the Canaria. This popular restaurant
Maspalomas dunes. Allow time for in Arucas is something of a local
a pre-dinner cocktail on the terrace institution (see p85).
and opt for the taster menu for
El Capita
the full experience. 4
MAP B2 • C/Nstra Sñra de las
La Palmera Sur
2 Nieves 3, Puerto de las Nieves • 928
MAP D6 • C/Plácido Domingo
55 41 42 • €
12, Maspalomas • 659 59 80 03 A great little fish and seafood
• Closed Sun & Mon • €€ restaurant. Waiters will recommend
This lovely little place, disguised as a best fish of the day, and the paella is
café and hidden away in the Bellavista definitely worth the half-hour wait.
housing estate at the back of the
El Encuentro
resort, serves deliciously creative 5
cuisine to locals and tourists. Good-quality food, with views
over the church in the plaza in Teror.
The menu is largely typical Canarian
fare, but be sure to try their excellent
salads and leave room for dessert.
The place can get very busy at
lunchtimes, so book ahead (see p91).
De Cuchara, Las Palmas
6
MAP P2 • C/Alfredo L Jones 37
• 928 26 55 09 • Closed Mon • €€
A refreshing mix of Canarian classics
is served alongside more international
dishes at this family-run joint. Desserts
include the local huevos mole, which
La Palmera Sur, a hidden gem is a cold pudding made of egg yolks.


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Restaurants ❮❮ 63

Deliciosa Marta
7 TOP 10 CANARIAN DISHES
MAP J5 • C/Pérez Galdós
23, Las Palmas • 928 37 08 82
• Closed Sat & Sun • €€
Located on one of the most
attractive streets of the capital,
this is the number one restaurant
in Las Palmas, and possibly on the
whole island. Michelin-standard
food, lovely surroundings and
absolutely first-class service.
Restaurante Tagoror,
8 Mojo, a spicy Canarian sauce
Barranco de Guayadeque
MAP E4 • Montaña Las Tierras 21 1 Ropa Vieja
• 928 17 20 13 • € Originally a way to use up leftovers,
Although it is on the tourist trail, this chickpea (garbanzo) stew is now a
Tagoror’s food remains true to its firm favourite among Canarios.
origins, and its prices are low. 2 Papas Arrugadas
A series of tunnels con nects the The ubiquitous side order: these are
rooms, all hewn out of the moun- small potatoes boiled in their skins
tainside. Every Canarian favourite in very salty water.
graces the menu: try gofio, the 3 Mojo
chorizo, or the goat stew. Spicy sauces, heavy on garlic, once
used to hide the taste of unappetizing
food. The red sauce usually goes with
meat and potatoes, while the green
version accompanies fish.
4 Gofio
A blend of roasted maize, barley or
wheat, served in a variety of ways.
This is probably the only food
surviving from Guanche times, and
something of an acquired taste.
5 Bienmesabe
Often eaten with ice cream,
Dine in a cave at Restaurante Tagoror Bienmesabe is an exceptionally sweet
sauce, containing almonds, honey
Calma Chicha
9 and sugar. The name is also given to
a cake with the same ingredients.
MAP D6 • Avda de Tirajana 4,
Playa del Inglés • 928 76 07 14 6 Potaje de Berros
• Closed Sun D • €€ Stew made with watercress, vegetables
Top-notch Spanish cuisine is served and sometimes meat. All Canarians
have their own recipe.
in this cosy restaurant. An intimate
interior fills quickly in winter, and 7 Queso de Flor
there’s a nice outdoor terrace for Goat’s or sheep’s cheese mixed with a
warmer nights. Booking is advised. blue thistle flower; a speciality of Guía.
8 Chorizo de Teror
Samsara
0 Locals love sandwiches made with this
exceedingly garlicky sausage.
MAP D6 • Avda del Oasis 30,
Maspalomas • 928 14 27 36 9 Carne de Cabra
• Closed Mon • € The staple meat of the Guanches, goat
A wonderful Thai-themed fusion is still a favourite on Canarian menus.
restaurant, where the white plates 10 Bizcocho
can be personalized to convey A lovely light, fluffy sponge cake.
messages to loved ones.
For a key to restaurant price ranges see p79


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64 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Places to Shop


Mercadillo de Santa
Mercadillo de
1 3
Lucía de Tirajana
Santa Brígida
MAP E3 • Under Municipal Park MAP D4 • Plaza Santa Lucía
• Open 8am–8pm Sat, 8am–2pm Sun • Open 8am–2pm Sun
Stock up your picnic hamper at this Head to the centre of Santa Lucía de
farmers’ market. Along with locally Tirajana for the freshest local produce
grown fruit and vegetables, there are at bargain prices. Pick up the town’s
first-rate cheeses and fresh bread. speciality products, such as its olives
Get a handmade wooden toy for the and its mejunje de ventura, made from
little ones and a well-crafted walking a recipe of honey rum with herbs.
stick to help you hike in the hills.
Mercadillo de
4
Arguineguín
MAP C6 • C/Paco González
• Open 8am–2pm Tue
A popular market selling the usual
array of souvenirs, and anything from
fake designer labels and leather
goods to African drums and bikinis.
Mercado de Artesanía
5
y Cultura de Vegueta
MAP M5 • Plaza del Pilar
• Open 10am–3pm Sun
Artisans gather in the streets behind
Stall at Mercadillo de San Fernando the cathedral to sell ceramics,
clothing, food and handicrafts. Stop
Mercadillo de
2 for refreshments in one of the make-
San Fernando
shift bars set up for the occasion and
MAP D6 • C/San Mateo watch the folk-dancing display.
• Open 8am–2pm Wed & Sun
Shopping Centres
One of the south’s “big three” 6
markets along with Puerto de Mogán El Muelle and Las Arenas in
and Arguineguín; 400 stalls of Las Palmas are both well equipped
clothes, souvenirs and local produce with chain stores and places to eat.
vie for attention. Inside the hall Other popular centres are Varadero
you’ll find freshly juiced fruits, in Meloneras, Las Terrazas in Telde
home-made cakes and speciality and Tropical in Playa del Inglés.
foods such as German bratwurst.
El Muelle Shopping Centre
















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Places to Shop ❮❮ 65



TOP 10 SOUVENIRS
1 Cheese
Buy queso de flor (flower cheese),
a speciality of Santa Maria de Guía.
2 Lacework and Embroidery
Buy embroidered tablecloths,
pretty place mats and blouses
in Ingenio.
3 Pottery
The only Guanche tradition to have
survived is the production of hand-
crafted ceramics. Potters still make
their wares without a wheel in La
Atalaya, Hoya de Pineda and Juncalillo.
Produce at Mercadillo de San Mateo 4 Mojo
You should take home at least two
Mercadillo de San Mateo
7 jars of the spicy sauce: one green
and one red (see p63).
The island’s best farmers’
market offers excellent local produce 5 Timples
and local handicrafts, such as wicker This small, five-stringed instrument
work and leather goods. Try the resembles a ukulele and is the musical
marinated olives and pan de millo emblem of the island. A few artisans
still make it by hand.
(sweet yellow cornbread; see p90).
6 Mejunje de ventura
Calle Mayor de Triana,
8 If dark rum is too hard to swallow, go
Las Palmas
for a bottle of honey rum instead.
The Modernist buildings that line the 7 Pintaderas
city’s most elite shopping street now Necklaces of replica Guanche
house chain stores, such as pintaderas (ceramic stamps) make
Benetton and Marks & Spencer, but beautiful and original gifts.
it’s still a great place to while away 8 Agaete Coffee
an afternoon. For unique purchases, Strong coffee, grown in the Agaete
head to the boutiques in the cobbled Valley, is on sale across the island.
side streets, where you’ll find one-off 9 Aloe Vera
clothes shops, original handicrafts The healing plant grows in abundance
and specialist bookshops (see p77). on the island, so Gran Canaria is a
great place to stock up on cosmetics
Vecindario
9 made from its extracts.
10 Traditional Costume
MAP E5
The island’s third-largest town is no You’ll probably never wear it, but
beauty, but it has two large malls, and the traditional island dress is very
interesting visually and also makes
a high street stretching 3 km (2 miles). a rather good wall hanging.
Visit the big chain stores, or the craft
shop in Parque de la Era de Verdugo.
The Mint Company,
0
Meloneras
MAP D6 • Avda Paseo Playa s/n,
CC Boulevard El Faro
• Open 10:15am–10pm daily
• www.themintcompany.com
Pick up great fashion bargains at
this popular store selling top brands
at low prices. It also offers a good Pottery on sale in Fataga
personal shopping service and Wi-Fi.

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66 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Gran Canaria for Free


Historic Town Tours
Ruta Playa Viva
1 4
MAP H2
www.grancanaria.com
Every Saturday evening, at outdoor The Gran Canaria Tourist Board web-
venues along the promenade of site offers free podcast tours in English
Las Canteras beach, half a dozen for a range of historic towns, such as
or more bands perform live sets. Tejeda, Teror, Arucas and Las Palmas,
From cover versions of classic rock as well as villages including Santa
to improvised jazz, this free street Lucía de Tirajana. They cover history,
festival is a great way for everyone culture and all the most important
to enjoy the sunset over the beach. sights. Download iPhone/iPad or
Android apps from their website.
Museums and Galleries
2
Some are free to enter all
the time, but most have days when
they drop the charge. This varies
depending on individual museums
and galleries, but many, including
all the major Las Palmas museums
and Cueva Pintada, are free on the
first weekend of each month. Check
individual websites for further
admission details.
Parque Doramas in Las Palmas
Traditional Music
3 Parks and Gardens
and Dance
MAP J4 • C/Francisco González Días, 5
Parque Doramas: MAP J4
Las Palmas • 928 24 29 85 • Parque Botanico de Maspalomas:
Canarian folklore is an important MAP D6
part of Gran Canaria’s culture, From leafy plazas and beautiful
and you can see local bands and gardens to botanical masterpieces,
dance groups dressed in traditional Gran Canaria’s subtropical splendour
costume performing for free at often comes without a price tag.
the Pueblo Canario in Las Palmas The best are Jardín Botanico Viera
each Sunday, and in other fiestas y Clavijo (see pp18–19), Parque
across the island (see pp68–9). Doramas and Parque Botanico
de Maspalomas.
Hiking
6
An intricate
network of caminos
reales (royal pathways),
linking the various
municipalities, makes
Gran Canaria perfect
for trekking. Try the
three-day Camino de
Santiago hike from
Playa del Inglés to
Gáldar. For a shorter,
family-friendly walk,
choose the path from
La Goleta car park to
Dancers dressed in traditional costumes Roque Nublo.




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Gran Canaria for Free ❮❮ 67

Stargazing
7 TOP 10 MONEY-SAVING TIPS
Canarian skies are among
the clearest in the world, and
you don’t have to go on a guided
tour to appreciate them. Just
choose a moonless night and
head to the upper reaches of the
interior for a vantage point above
the clouds and away from the lights
of the south coast.
Camping
8
www.gobcan.es/cmayot/
There are over a dozen free
camp sites across the island,
and some are in beauty spots Set lunch menus are great value
such as Tamadaba and the
Cuevas de las Niñas lake. Most 1 Follow Vegueta’s “Ruta de Tapas”
have only a few amenities. You every Thursday; you pay €2 for
must have prior written permission, a tapa and drink at each bar
which you should apply for online participating in the scheme.
and must collect in person from 2 Save money and avoid the crowds
Las Palmas. by booking off-peak. The most
expensive periods are between
November and Easter, and during
the summer school holidays.
Parque Doramas in Las Palmas
3 Most of the island’s restaurants
offer Menu del Día lunchtime deals
for between €6 and €9.
4 Buy a bono de guagua (Las Palmas)
or tarjeta insular for generously
discounted bus fares.
5 Consider investing in an LPA card,
which allows you free entry to
20 participating museums. For more
information, visit www.lpacard.com/
en/laspalmascard.
6 Head to the rebajas (sales) for
Camping with a view in Tamadaba
fashion bargains, from January to
Beaches
9 March and July to August.
7 Shop at farmers’ markets and
You don’t have to pay out for a
sun lounger; find a spot away from supermarkets, such as Mercadona
the regimented rows and just throw and Hiperdino, for the best savings
on fresh produce and other groceries.
a towel onto the sand. As all beaches
in Spain are public by law, you can 8 Save money and the planet by
find your own piece of paradise. buying 5L or 8L water carriers and
refilling small bottles.
Fiestas
0 9 Canarios like to serve generous food
portions at reasonable prices; you’ll
All the local fiestas and some
of the island’s biggest events, such find these at traditional restaurants
as Carnival, are open to one and outside big resort centres.
all. Most towns and villages stage 10 Wines, handicrafts and souvenirs
an annual romería (a celebratory are all much cheaper on the island
pilgrimage), usually in the summer than at the airport, so stock up before
months, all of them offering a free you begin your journey home.
day of music, dancing and fun.


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68 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Traditional Fiestas


Semana Santa
3
(Holy Week)
Mar–Apr, island-wide
This is a sombre affair, featuring
solemn processions silencing towns
across the island. On Good Friday,
Las Palmas women don traditional
dress and carry a sculpture of Christ
along red carpets in Vegueta. There
are similar processions island-wide
on Easter Sunday, though none is
quite as emotionally charged as the
Cabalgata de los Reyes Magos equivalent in mainland Spain.
Día de Canarias
Cabalgata de los Reyes
1 4
(Canary Islands Day)
Magos (Procession of
the Three Kings) 30 May, island-wide
5 Jan, Las Palmas Although relatively new, this
Melchior, Balthazar and Caspar commemoration of Canarian
ride through the capital’s streets autonomy celebrates all that is
on camels, throwing sweets to time-honoured in the islands.
children, who later receive presents Traditional costume is obligatory,
from the kings. Shops open until and merrymakers play the timple
2am for late-night gift-buying, and (a small guitar) and dance as their
there are parties in the streets ancestors did. Local food and drink
and makeshift bars in Triana. are dished out freely, so this is a
great time for a visit.
Carnaval
2 Fiesta de San Juan
Feb–Mar, island-wide
23–24 Jun, Las Palmas and
Don your best costume and get ready 5
for 2 months of murgas (satirical other places
singing), comparsas (dancing Revellers leap over bonfires and
competitions) and the all-important throw oranges into the ocean,
crowning of the drag queen. The while fireworks light up the sky.
party culminates in the burial of Celebrated with gusto on Playa de
the sardine, a bizarre spectacle with Las Canteras, as well as in Arucas
mock mourners weeping because and Telde, the festival coincides with
their fun has ended for another year. the founding of Las Palmas, so the
celebrations in the capital are
Murgas performance at Carnaval particularly impressive.

















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Traditional Fiestas ❮❮ 69

Corpus Christi
6 TOP 10 CONTEMPORARY
Jun, Las Palmas and other
towns across the island FESTIVALS
The tradition of flower-petal carpets
has been lost in many parts of
Spain, but it is still firmly a part of
Canarian culture. Don’t miss the
mammoth carpet laid out in front of
Las Palmas cathedral – it’s always
a wonderful work of art.
Bajada de la Rama
7
(Taking Down of
the Branches) Performance at Jazz & Más
4–5 Aug, Agaete and Puerto de
las Nieves 1 Opera Festival, Las Palmas
This is a colourful pre-Hispanic Feb–Jun
rain-making ritual, in which locals The Alfredo Kraus Auditorium hosts
parade to the ocean and beat the an impressive programme of operas.
water with pine branches. 2 Film Festival, Las Palmas
Mar
Fiesta de Nuestra
8 Week-long festival of independent and
mainstream films across the capital.
Señora del Pino (Festival
of Our Lady of the Pine) 3 Masdanza, Maspalomas
8 Sep, Teror Oct
The pretty town of Teror is the setting Contemporary dance festival with
for this party honouring the Canary shows and workshops.
Islands’ patron saint (see pp26–7). 4 Fiesta del Queso, Guía
April/May
Sample Canarian culture as well as
local cheese at this popular festival.
5 Gay Pride, Maspalomas
May
Exhibitions, fundraisers and a big
street parade promote equal rights.
6 Feria del Caballo, Valsequillo
May
This horse festival is the island’s most
important agricultural celebration.
7 International Folklore Festival,
Ingenio
Locals enjoying the Fiesta del Charco July
Fiesta del Charco
9 Global music and dance celebrating
Ingenio’s multicultural citizens.
11 Sep, Puerto de la Aldea
This lively Guanche festival sees 8 Jazz & Más, Las Palmas
July
participants wade through the murky The capital becomes a (mostly open-
waters of the charco (a large pond) air) stage for international jazz.
to catch fish with their bare hands. 9 Traída del Agua, Lomo Magullo
It is messy but strangely good fun. First half of Aug
Romerías
0 This huge annual water-fight has a
history that goes back centuries.
Year-round, island-wide
Each town or village hosts its own 10 Traída del Barro
July
romería (pilgrimage), which is really Partygoers make hay in clay, at La
a street party featuring traditional Atalaya, the island’s pottery capital.
dancing and Canarian food.


068-069_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 69 22/12/2016 17:09

Gran Canaria

Area by Area













The imposing façade of Casa de Colón















































070-071_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 70 22/12/2016 17:09

Las Palmas 72
Northern Gran Canaria 80
Central and Western
Gran Canaria 86
Eastern Gran Canaria 94
Southern Gran Canaria 100























































070-071_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 71 22/12/2016 17:09

72 ❯❯ Gran Canaria Area by Area

Las Palmas


Las Palmas can date its beginnings from the day Juan Rejón
landed at La Isleta and earmarked the area for his settlement
(see p38). The arrival of Christopher Columbus, the increase
in maritime traffic, and, finally, the construction of the port,
guaranteed success as a trading hub. Today Las Palmas is the
Canary Islands’ biggest city, with a vibrant ethnic mix, reflecting
its position as a crossroads between Africa, Europe and Latin
America. A paradise for shopaholics, Las Palmas also has leafy
suburbs and quiet cobbled streets, all crowned by Playa de Las
Canteras, one of the world’s top city beaches.

AREA MAP OF LAS PALMAS
0 metres 800 JUAN REJÓN
0 yards 800 PEROJO Vegueta and
Triana
ALBAREDA BRAVO MURILLO AVE. R. CABRERA
Playa de VIERA Y CLAVIJO AV E N I D A
las Canteras PÉREZ GALDÓS SAN TRIANA
MAYOR DE
BERNARDO
F. GUANARTEME T. MILLER AV E . MA R I T I M A D E L N ORT E AV. PRIMERO DE MAYO TRIANA C A N A R I A
PLAZA DE
STAGNO
PLAZA SAN
FRANCISCO
AVE. JOSÉ
Playa de MESA Y LÓPEZ
FERNANDO GUANARTEME PÍO XII Playa de las DEL CENTRO DR. CHIL
las Canteras
AUTOVÍA
Alcaravaneras
GUANARTEME AVE. JOSÉ MESA Y LÓPEZ PASEO DE CHIL CASTILLO VEGUETA
0 metres 400 REYES CATOLICOS
0 yards 400
CA RRETERA DE CHILE AV. DE ANSIT E PASEO DE CHIL
PÍO XII
CIUDAD
JARDÍN
LEÓN Y CASTILLO
ESCALERITAS
A tlantic
O c ean
J U A N C A R L O S I AVE. DE ESCALERITAS ALTAVISTA PASEO DE TOMÁS MORALES
AV E N I D A M A R I T I M A D E L N O R T E
Top 10 Sights OBISPO ROMO LAS PA SE O D E CHI L ARENALES
LUGO LEÓN Y CASTILLO VENEGAS
see pp73–5 ZARAGOZA REHOYAS See Vegueta
and Triana
Places to Eat SAN map above
Parque de
see p79 las Rehoyas ANTONIO AS
The Best of the Rest I. GALDÓS, CAP. G E N. DE CANARI TRIANA
see p76 MILLER AV. PRIMERO DE MAYO
Nightspots
see p78 AVENIDA CANARIAS
Places to Shop AUTOVÍA DEL CENTRO
see p77 SAN VEGUETA
ROQUE 2 km

072-075_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 72 22/12/2016 17:09

Las Palmas ❮❮ 73

Las Palmas 1 eastwards it becomes ever more
Catedral de Santa Ana
Las Palmas’ enormous Santa
golden, and the sea, protected by the
Ana cathedral and adjoining sacred broad reef, takes on the appearance
art museum contain some important of a lake. Locals sometimes head for
paintings and sculptures dating el ascensor (“the lift”), a part of the
back to the 16th century, including reef where the swell catapults
two woodcarvings by renowned 18th- swimmers back up onto the rocks –
to 19th-century local sculptor José the really sure way to spot it is to
Luján Pérez (see pp14–15). look for the throng of whooping
youngsters in front of Playa Chica.
Casas Consistoriales
2
MAP M5 • Plaza de Santa Ana
• Open 9am–6pm Mon–Fri,
10am–2pm Sat & Sun
Taking centre stage in Plaza de
Santa Ana and guarded by its faithful
bronze hounds is the magnificent
19th-century Neo-Classical Casas
0 metres 800 JUAN REJÓN Consistoriales. Built on the site of
0 yards 800 PEROJO Vegueta and the original 16th-century Town Hall,
Triana
which burned down in 1842, the
ALBAREDA BRAVO MURILLO AVE. R. CABRERA edifice houses some 90 works of art
Playa de VIERA Y CLAVIJO AV E N I D A by Canarian artists, including César
las Canteras PÉREZ GALDÓS SAN TRIANA Manrique. Perhaps the highlight is Exhibits at Museo Elder de la Ciencia
MAYOR DE
one of Álvarez Sala’s famous
BERNARDO
Museo Elder de la
F. GUANARTEME T. MILLER AV E . MA R I T I M A D E L N ORT E AV. PRIMERO DE MAYO TRIANA C A N A R I A S Emigrantes paint
Ciencia y la Tecnología
PLAZA DE
above the main staircase.
STAGNO
PLAZA SAN
FRANCISCO
MAP P2 • Parque Santa Catalina •
Playa de Las Canteras
AVE. JOSÉ
FERNANDO GUANARTEME PÍO XII Playa de las DEL CENTRO DR. CHIL Few cities can boast a beach as good While kids enjoy the many interactive
Playa de MESA Y LÓPEZ 3 828 01 18 28 • Open 10am–8pm Tue–
las Canteras MAP N2 Sun • Adm • www.museoelder.org
AUTOVÍA
as Playa de Las Canteras: 3 km
exhibits, parents might prefer to find
Alcaravaneras
GUANARTEME AVE. JOSÉ MESA Y LÓPEZ PASEO DE CHIL CASTILLO VEGUETA (2 miles) of fine sand, sandwiched out how beer is made, what they
0 metres 400 REYES CATOLICOS between a wide promenade and the would weigh on Mars, or if their
0 yards 400 chilly Atlantic Ocean. Surfers tend to hearing and heartbeat are normal.
This is a great place to spend a few
congregate at the western end, an
CA RRETERA DE CHILE AV. DE ANSIT E PASEO DE CHIL area known as La Cicer. The sand hours, especially if you’re caught in
PÍO XII
CIUDAD
the rain in Las Palmas.
here is black, but as you move
JARDÍN
LEÓN Y CASTILLO
ESCALERITAS
A tlantic
O c ean
J U A N C A R L O S I AVE. DE ESCALERITAS OBISPO ROMO PASEO DE TOMÁS MORALES
ALTAVISTA
AV E N I D A M A R I T I M A D E L N O R T E
LAS PA SE O D E CHI L ARENALES
LUGO LEÓN Y CASTILLO VENEGAS
REHOYAS See Vegueta
ZARAGOZA
and Triana
Parque de SAN map above
las Rehoyas ANTONIO AS
I. GALDÓS, CAP. G E N. DE CANARI TRIANA
MILLER AV. PRIMERO DE MAYO
AUTOVÍA DEL CENTRO AVENIDA CANARIAS
SAN VEGUETA
ROQUE 2 km
Sun-worshippers gather on Playa de Las Canteras
072-075_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 73 22/12/2016 17:09

74 ❯❯ Gran Canaria Area by Area

Museo Canario
6
FREE TRADE This museum boasts the
Ever since Puerto de La Luz was built, largest collection of Guanche
it has been a free port; indeed, low artifacts to be found anywhere
taxes, lenient customs laws and a and provides a fascinating insight
strategic location combine to make it into their culture. This is a good
one of the world’s busiest, handling preparation for those who may be
nearly 7 million tonnes of goods a year. visiting Guanche sites around the
The bustling docks give the city its
cosmopolitan feel, as Russian and island (see pp16–17).
Korean sailors rub shoulders with Casa de Colón
European cruise passengers. 7
The main focus of this first-
rate museum is Christopher
Museo Néstor
5 Columbus’s travels across the
Atlantic and their effect on the Canary
MAP J4 • Pueblo Canario
• 928 24 51 35 • Open 10am–7pm Islands. Pre-Columbian cultures and
Tue–Sat, 10:30am–2:30pm Sun and historic Las Palmas are rewarding
public hols • Adm subsidiary themes. It’s all displayed
Las Palmas-born artist Néstor in a beautiful restored Canarian
Martín Fernández de la Torre is house (see pp12–13).
(1887–1938) best known as a
Vegueta Architecture
Modernist painter, but you can also 8
see evidence of Pre-Raphaelitism MAP M5
and Symbolism in his colourful A stroll around the capital’s oldest
works. Construction of the Neo- district is a must for its quiet cobbled
Canarian building housing the streets and varied architecture.
gallery was a joint project by Unfortunately, pirate attacks in the
the artist and his architect brother 16th century destroyed much of
Miguel. As well as Néstor’s famous the original hamlet set up after the
“poems”, huge paintings comprising Conquest, but there is still plenty to
eight panels each, there are some see. Balconies prevail, be they the
vivid sketches based on theatre wooden-box-like designs favoured in
productions. Towards the end of Canarian architecture or the more
his life, Néstor favoured pictures ornate wrought-iron versions typical
depicting hidden corners of his of Modernist buildings.
beloved Gran Canaria, in a style
he called “Typism” (see p45). Casa de Colón’s elaborate entrance

























072-075_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 74 22/12/2016 17:09

Las Palmas ❮❮ 75

Auditorio Alfredo Kraus
9 LAS PALMAS PAST AND PRESENT
MAP G3 • Avda Príncipe de
Asturias s/n • 928 49 17 70 • Guided BUS Parque de
Santa Catalina
tours are available for groups Bus (4 km)
• Adm • www.auditorioteatro Station San Telmo Playa de las Museo
Canteras
laspalmasgc.es Park Elder
C/Mayor
One of the city’s landmark buildings, Allende de Triana Parque
this fine modern auditorium, perched Triana Triana de Santa
on the jetty at the western end of Teatro Pérez district Catalina
Galdós
Centro
Playa de Las Canteras, hosts cultural Espíritu Cathedral Peña la de Arte
Vieja
events, including the opera season, Santo La Regenta
the film festival and jazz concerts. Museo Palacio de From BUS
If the productions here are not to Canario Justicia San Telmo Park
your taste, you can always admire
the stunning ocean view. MORNING
Any walk around the capital
should begin where it did, in the
Vegueta barrio. Start at the
Palacio de Justicia, on Avda
Marítima, and head into the old
town via a narrow alley to the
right of the courts; just a
17th-century tower remains of
the original building. Pass the
impressive stone archway of the
Jesuit lglesia de San Francisco de
Borja as you make your way to
the must-see Museo Canario.
From the museum, head to the
Plaza and Ermita de Espíritu
The modern Auditorio Alfredo Kraus Santo, then double back again
to the Cathedral de Santa
Triana
0 Ana (see p73) and the Casas
Consistoriales in Plaza de Santa
Not long after the Conquest,
the original Vegueta settlement Ana. Head across the main road
to the Triana district, en route
became too small for the island’s admiring the Italianate Neo-
increasing population and spread Classical Teatro Pérez Galdós
across the Guiniguada ravine. By (see p40), and have lunch at
the 19th century, the neighbouring Allende Triana (see p79).
district of Triana was a bustling area,
featuring some fine architecture and AFTERNOON
a large theatre. It was formerly the After lunch, make for C/Mayor de
elite that shopped on the city’s Triana to shop for souvenirs and
premiere street, Calle Mayor de clothes. Head north to Parque San
Triana, but these days, affordable Telmo, where there’s a bus station.
chain stores complement the Here you can jump on a guagua to
cross the city, unless you relish the
exclusive boutiques. Do venture idea of a 45-minute stroll along
away from the main street, for it is the promenade. Alight at Parque
in the side streets that you will find de Santa Catalina, heading first
Triana’s real treasures – such as to the Centro de Arte La Regenta
one-off handicraft shops and snug (see p76), a contemporary art
tapas bars. There’s more to Triana museum, and then to the Museo
than shopping, though: admire the Elder de la Ciencia y la Tecnología,
exquisite architecture of the Gabinete before ending the day at Playa de
Las Canteras. Get an artisan ice
Literario, the Teatro Pérez Galdós cream from Peña la Vieja on the
(see pp40–41), and also the Ermita Paseo de Las Canteras.
de San Telmo (see p47).
See map on p72
072-075_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 75 22/12/2016 17:09

76 ❯❯ Gran Canaria Area by Area

The Best of the Rest


Centro de Arte
Parque and Ermita
1 5
La Regenta
de San Telmo
MAP L4 MAP P3 • C/León y Castillo 427
A leafy respite in Triana’s shopping • 928 11 74 68 • Open Tue–Fri
centre. The kiosk is Art Nouveau 11am–2pm, 5–8pm, Sat 11am–2pm
and the altar in the 18th­century • Closed Sun & Mon
Ermita de San Telmo is considered Housed in a former tobacco ware­
one of the prettiest on the island. house, La Regenta is a treasure trove
of contemporary art, and mounts
numerous exhibitions every year.
CAAM
6
MAP M5 • C/Los Balcones 11
• 928 31 18 00 • Open 10am–9pm
Tue–Sat, 10am–2pm Sun • www.
caam.net
Vegueta’s most modern space, the
Neo­Classical Centro Atlántico de
Arte Moderno hosts contemporary
sculptures, paintings and video art.
Vistas from Escaleritas
7
MAP H4
Fountains at Parque Doramas You’ll get the best view of the city’s
port, beaches, skyscrapers and palm
Parque Doramas
2 trees from the Escaleritas barrio.
MAP J4 • C/Emilio Ley
Muelle Deportivo
The city’s prettiest park is named 8
after the Guanche leader who MAP J3
refused to bow to the Spanish. The sporting marina attracts sailors
It’s well equipped for children from across the globe. Many come
and has a small open­air café. to rest before heading to southern
Africa or across the Atlantic.
Casa Museo Pérez
3 Ciudad Jardín
Galdós
MAP H3
MAP L5 • C/Cano 2 • 928 36 69 76 9
• Open 10am–2pm, 4–8pm Tue–Fri, As you enter “Garden City”, the
10am–2pm Sat–Sun (guided tours unsightly skyscrapers of Las
only, every hour) • www. Palmas’ commercial districts give
casamuseoperezgaldos.com way to grand mansions, mostly built
Novelist Benito Pérez Galdós – by British settlers in the 19th and
“the Spanish Charles Dickens” – is early 20th centuries and now home
the island’s most famous former to the city’s wealthiest families.
inhabitant. His charming childhood
Pueblo Canario
home in Triana is now a museum. 0
MAP J4 • C/Francisco González
Castillo de la Luz
4 Díaz • Open 10am–midnight Tue–Sat,
MAP Q1 • C/Juan Rejón s/n
10:30am–5pm Sun
The 16th­century fort overlooks a Built in the mid­20th century, this
popular children’s playground. Set in miniature Canarian village is a good
a small park equipped with a cheap place to sample local cuisine, buy
café serving tasty food, it’s also a fine handicrafts or admire the work of
place to while away an afternoon. Néstor de la Torre (see p45).
076-077_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 76 22/12/2016 17:09

Las Palmas ❮❮ 77

Places to Shop


Calle Mayor de Triana
La Casa de Los Quesos
1 8
MAP L4
MAP H1 • C/Sagasta 32
Although Avda de Mesa y López is A gourmet’s dream shop, this is the
vying for the position of top shopping place to shop for the island’s best
street, Triana still has the charm. artisan cheeses, as well as its wines,
mojos, honey, coffee and olive oil.
El Corte Inglés
2 Malls
MAP P3
If you can’t find what you’re looking 9
La Ballena: MAP G6 C/General
for in this mammoth department del Norte 112 • 7 Palmas: MAP E2
store, it may well not exist. There Avda Pintor Felo Monzón • Monopol:
are two branches on Avda de José MAP L5 Plaza de Hurtado Mendoza 1
Mesa y López and a third in the • El Muelle: MAP P2 Muelle de Santa
7 Palmas shopping centre. Catalina • Las Arenas: MAP G3 C/Pavía
12 • La Minilla: MAP H3 C/Pintor Juan
FEDAC
3 Guillermo 6–8 • Las Ramblas: MAP G4
MAP L4 • C/Domingo J
Avda Juan Carlos I 29 • Tamarana: MAP
Navarro 7 E2 Avda César Manrique s/n • El
The best artisans from across the Mirador: MAP F2 Autovía GC-1, Km 5
island sell their wares in this non- Las Palmas has no fewer than
profit outlet in Triana. nine shopping malls.
Artesanía Santa Catalina
4
MAP P3 • C/Ripoche 4
This is a good place to hunt for
typical Canarian souvenirs. The
speciality is pottery, but you will also
find foodstuffs, aloe vera products
and embroidered goods.
Tienda Artesania
5
Canaria Las Palmitas
MAP M5 • C/Herrería 7, Vegueta
The perfect place to pick up an
interesting souvenir or gift, while
at the same time supporting local
artisans. The shop is crammed with
handicrafts, from wooden jewellery
to earthenware jugs.
Las Canteras Lifestyle
6
MAP H1 • Paseo de Las
Canteras 20 Shopping mall El Muelle
The perfect stop to prepare for a
La Librería
day spent at the beach. This handily- 0
placed store stocks stylish bags, MAP L4 • C/Cano 24
hats, and towels. Every aspect of Canarian culture,
from hiking and history to festivals
El Puente
7 and flora, is represented in the
cabildo’s bookshop in Triana.
MAP L5 • C/Obispo Codina 6
This charming shop stocks typical Although most titles are in Spanish,
Canarian crafts such as tablecloths, a few have been translated into
pottery and traditional costumes. other European languages.
See map on p72
076-077_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 77 22/12/2016 17:09

78 ❯❯ Gran Canaria Area by Area

Nightspots














Visitors savour the view from La Azotea de Benito’s rooftop terrace
La Azotea de Benito
Fortuni
1 6
MAP L5 • CC Monopol, Plaza
MAP H2 • C/Martínez
de Escobar 1 Hurtado de Mendoza
With its retro design but chic and Catch the last rays of sun at this chic
contemporary styling, this venue bar on the roof of Centro Commercial
in the heart of the capital has (CC) Monopol. Enjoy chill-out sounds
certainly made a name for itself. in the background and one of the
Expect live singers, top DJs and Cocoa Negroni cocktails in hand.
a lively party atmosphere. Pool Fiction
Charleston Café
2 7
MAP P3 • C/Secretario
Artiles 22
MAP L4 • C/Buenos Aires 14
Acoustic concerts and absinthe give Equipped with eight pool tables, a
this late-night café a bohemian air. dartboard and a plasma TV, this
It attracts a friendly, relaxed crowd. sophisticated joint behind Parque
Santa Catalina is the perfect place
Te Lo Dije Perez
3 for a sporting night out.
MAP L5 • C/Obispo Codina 6
Las Brujas
In trendy Vegueta, this traditional bar 8
is the favourite haunt of musicians MAP E2 • Barranco Seco
headlining at Teatro Pérez Galdós Outside the city on the way to Tafira, a
across the street and is a good place huge rural house has been converted
to start the night with a beer. into an amazing nightspot. You can
have a bite to eat in one of the dining
Ruta Playa Viva
4 rooms dotted about the house, or
party in the DJ tent. In summer,
MAP H1–H2
Head to Las Canteras beach every revellers spill out into the garden.
Saturday night for a string of free
Paper Club
concerts, from rock to jazz, at venues 9
dotted along the promenade. It’s a MAP L5 • C/Remedios 10–12
relaxed festival atmosphere enjoyed One of Las Palmas’ best concert
by families and clubbers alike. venues, Paper Club attracts a young
crowd of devoted revellers.
NYC Taxi Bar
5 Malecón de la Habana
MAP G3 • C/Numancia 25
A small place with very loud music, 0
MAP P3 • C/José Franchy Roca
this lively rock bar is decorated and This is one of the best places in
run like a New York City taxi bar. the city to hear Latin music, salsa
Order cold beers by the bucket dance and watch live Cuban bands.
and party like a New Yorker. The place hots up at around 3am.
078-079_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 78 22/12/2016 17:09

Las Palmas ❮❮ 79

Places to Eat


beach. It specializes in fresh
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one with half fish and seafood, and is a good
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), place to try arroz caldoso.
taxes and extra charges.
Kitchen Lovers
€ under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50 6
MAP H1 • Paseo de las Canteras
16 • 928 98 76 10 • Closed Mon • €€€
Rías Bajas
1 One of the main attractions of this
modern Italian restaurant is the
MAP P3 • C/Simón Bolívar 3
• 928 27 13 16 • €€€ views over Las Canteras beach.
The capital’s premier restaurant However, creatively prepared dishes
specializes in seafood. If you’re do their best to distract from the
daunted by the choice, try the paella golden sands outside the windows.
or the arroz caldoso, a kind of rice
Allende Triana
stew with lots of seafood. 7
MAP L4 • C/Domingo J
Qué Leche
2 Navarro 16 • 928 38 09 48 • €
The philosophy here is use the best
MAP K5 • C/Torres 22 • 607 91
78 13 • Closed Sun & Mon • €€ ingredients to create quality dishes
A tiny, cosy restaurant with a South from around the world and serve them
American flavour, perfect for in comfortably chic surroundings.
sharing inventive tapas, such as
Fuji
squid with pistachio and ginger. 8
MAP N3 • C/Fernando
Tehran
3 Guanarteme 56 • 928 26 13 93
MAP N3
• Closed Mon • €€€
• C/Bernardo de la Torre 1 • Gran Canaria and Spain’s
928 22 28 17 • €€ first Japanese restaurant,
Tehran offers an Fuji offers authentic
authentic Iranian dishes and friendly
experience in service. Reserve at
terms of cuisine, the weekend to indulge
costumes, Persian in delicious sushi
decor and and sashimi.
even cultural
Novilla Précoz
entertainment. 9
MAP H2 • C/de
Bom Gosto
4 Sushi and sashimi Portugal 9 • 928 22 16 59
at Fuji
• €€€
MAP H2
• C/Secretario Padilla 28 This Uruguayan restaurant
• 618 30 85 73 • Closed Mon • €€ has been serving perfectly cooked
For a taste of Portugal close to steaks to local writers, singers
Playa de Las Canteras, Bom Gasto’s and poets for decades, many of
menu features the kind of dishes whom have scribbled their names
you’d expect to find in a restaurant on its walls.
in Porto, including the meaty,
Casa Montesdeoca
cheesy feast that is a francesinha. 0
MAP M5 • C/Montesdeoca 10 •
La Lonja
5 928 33 34 66 • Closed Sun & Aug • €€€
Succulent steaks and fresh fish are
MAP H2 • C/Galileo 8 • 828
01 44 55 • Closed Tue • €€ followed by some unique homemade
A small, friendly, unassuming desserts at this atmospheric,
Canarian tasca (or bar) near the traditional Vegueta restaurant.
See map on p72
078-079_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 79 22/12/2016 17:09

80 ❯❯ Gran Canaria Area by Area

Northern Gran Canaria


The north is as far removed from the stereotype of the
Canary Islands as is possible. The humid climate here
blesses the ravines with a layer of lush green vegetation,
while rough seas crash against the stony beaches.
It’s not dream territory for sunbathers or swimmers,
but hikers and surfers are certainly well catered for.
The cuisine consists of warming meat dishes in the
highlands and seafood platters on the coast. The region
is also rich in aboriginal remains, since Gáldar was the
island’s capital before the
Europeans invaded. Statue of La Virgin Carmen
in Santa María de Guía
Casa-Museo Antonio
1 and composer. Largely known as an
Padrón, Gáldar
Expressionist painter, his work also
MAP C1 • C/Capitán Quesada 3 • 928 demonstrates Fauvist tendencies.
55 18 58 • Open 8am–3pm Mon–Fri He portrayed everyday Canarian life,
• www.antoniopadron.com focusing on local myths and customs.
Born in Gáldar in 1920, Antonio Padrón Padrón’s most familiar works are
was a painter, sculptor, ceramicist considered a local treasure.
AREA MAP OF NORTHERN GRAN CANARIA


A tlanticA tlantic
O c eanO c ean
Punta dePunta de
El SobradilloEl Sobradillo OrtizOrtiz
El AgujeroEl Agujero
Sardina del Norte
Sardina del Norte
La AtalayaLa Atalaya
SanSan El El
Roque
Gáldar
Gáldar GC-2 GC-2 FelipeFelipe Roque
Bañaderos
San San Bañaderos GC-2 GC-2
Andrés
BarrialBarrial Andrés
Santa María GC-20 GC-20
Santa María
de Guía
San IsidroSan Isidro de Guía CenobioCenobio Cambalud Cardones
Cambalud
Cardones
Alto de los MojonesAlto de los Mojones de Valerónde Valerón GC-75 GC-75 GC-300 GC-300
502m502m GC-2 GC-2 Los QuintanasLos Quintanas La DehesaLa Dehesa FrontónFrontón
Buenlugar
Playa SotaventoPlaya Sotavento y Piso Firmey Piso Firme Buenlugar Arucas Tenoya
Tenoya
Arucas
GC-2 GC-2 HoyaHoya
Playa del JuncalPlaya del Juncal
Visvique
de Pineda de Pineda Los CastillejosLos Castillejos Visvique Santidad
Santidad
Moya
Puerto de GC-70 GC-70 Moya FirgasFirgas GC-43 GC-43
Puerto de
las Nieves Pico VientoPico Viento VisviqueVisvique
las Nieves
AgaeteAgaete 836m836m GC-220 GC-220
El SaucilloEl Saucillo BascamaoBascamao Los PortalesLos Portales
Valle de AgaeteValle de Agaete Los TilosLos Tilos
Playa dePlaya de Roque BermejoRoque Bermejo de Moyade Moya GC-30 GC-30 GC-240 GC-240 CiudadCiudad
GuayedraGuayedra 461m461m San PedroSan Pedro Los CastillosLos Castillos GC-21 GC-21 del Campodel Campo
Zumacal
GC-75 GC-75 Zumacal San JoséSan José
del Álamodel Álamo
0 km0 km 2 2 Montaña de las PresasMontaña de las Presas GC-43 GC-43
1082m1082m BarrancoBarranco
0 miles0 miles 2 2 del Pinardel Pinar GC-70 GC-70
080-083_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 80 22/12/2016 17:09

Northern Gran Canaria ❮❮ 81

Northern Gran Canaria

















Fishing boats in the harbour at Puerto de las Nieves
Puerto de las Nieves
Cueva Pintada, Gáldar
2 3
This popular fishing village
MAP C1 • C/Audencia 2,
is full of character. Settle into the Gáldar • 928 89 54 89 (book in
slow pace of life here, and enjoy a advance) • www.cuevapintada.org
divine seafood grill overlooking the When a farmer from Gáldar
port (see pp34–5). discovered a Guanche cave under his
land in the 19th century, he could not
AREA MAP OF NORTHERN GRAN CANARIA have realized the magnitude of his
find. Archeologists moved in to study
the simple paintings adorning its
Top 10 Sights walls – small triangles and squares
A tlanticA tlantic see pp80–83 etched in red and brown. These were
O c eanO c ean Places to Eat soon regarded as the most important
see p85
Punta dePunta de set of Guanche engravings in
El SobradilloEl Sobradillo OrtizOrtiz The Best of the Rest existence, but humidity and human
see p84 contact began to destroy them.
El AgujeroEl Agujero The site was closed in 1982 for
Sardina del Norte a massive restoration project
Sardina del Norte
La AtalayaLa Atalaya
SanSan El El and finally reopened in 2006.
Roque
Gáldar GC-2 GC-2 FelipeFelipe Roque
Gáldar
Bañaderos
San San Bañaderos GC-2 GC-2 Old Quarter, Santa
Andrés
BarrialBarrial Andrés 4
Santa María
Santa María GC-20 GC-20 María de Guía
de Guía
San IsidroSan Isidro de Guía CenobioCenobio Cambalud Cardones MAP C1
Cambalud
Cardones
Alto de los MojonesAlto de los Mojones de Valerónde Valerón GC-75 GC-75 GC-300 GC-300
502m502m GC-2 GC-2 Los QuintanasLos Quintanas La DehesaLa Dehesa FrontónFrontón At first glance, Guía has little to offer
Buenlugar
Playa SotaventoPlaya Sotavento y Piso Firmey Piso Firme Buenlugar Arucas Tenoya other than a hotchpotch of modern
Tenoya
Arucas
GC-2 GC-2 HoyaHoya buildings. Yet, hidden away in its
Playa del JuncalPlaya del Juncal centre, stands a grand Neo-Classical
Visvique
de Pineda de Pineda Los CastillejosLos Castillejos Visvique Santidad
Santidad
Moya
Puerto de GC-70 GC-70 Moya FirgasFirgas GC-43 GC-43 church and one of the island’s most
Puerto de
las Nieves Pico VientoPico Viento VisviqueVisvique charming town centres. The church,
las Nieves
AgaeteAgaete 836m836m GC-220 GC-220
El SaucilloEl Saucillo BascamaoBascamao Los PortalesLos Portales begun in 1607, has a clock donated
Valle de AgaeteValle de Agaete Los TilosLos Tilos by celebrated sculptor José Luján
Playa dePlaya de Roque BermejoRoque Bermejo de Moyade Moya GC-30 GC-30 GC-240 GC-240 CiudadCiudad Pérez, Guía’s most famous son. His
GuayedraGuayedra 461m461m San PedroSan Pedro Los CastillosLos Castillos GC-21 del Campodel Campo home, marked by a small plaque, is
GC-21
Zumacal
GC-75 GC-75 Zumacal San JoséSan José in a pretty road behind the church.
These sleepy, colourful streets ooze
del Álamodel Álamo
0 km0 km 2 2 Montaña de las PresasMontaña de las Presas GC-43 GC-43
1082m1082m BarrancoBarranco character, and the inhabitants are
0 miles0 miles 2 2 del Pinardel Pinar GC-70 GC-70 perhaps the friendliest on the island.
080-083_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 81 22/12/2016 17:09

82 ❯❯ Gran Canaria Area by Area


forest is in La Gomera’s national
WATER CHANNELS park. Los Tilos de Moya represents
Rainfall is far higher in the north than about 1 per cent of the once-
in the south of the island, but, as the magnificent Doramas forest. Home
porous ground soaks it up, farmers have to many endangered bird and plant
had to build irrigation channels, wells, species, it has only a sprinkling of
springs and water mills. This impressive human inhabitants.
hydro-network supports the cultivation
of crops in the region, particularly the Parroquia de San Juan
banana plantations around Arucas. The 7
Bautista, Arucas
area’s hydraulic heritage can be seen
on a hike around Valleseco. MAP D2 • Párroco Cardenes 2
• 928 60 56 22 • Open 9:30am–
12:30pm, 4:30–7pm Mon–Sat,
8:30am–1pm, 4:30–7:30pm Sun
Built on the site of an old hermitage,
this mammoth Neo-Gothic structure,
begun in 1909, took over 60 years
to build, and is perhaps the most
remarkable church in Gran Canaria.
The exquisite stained-glass windows
were produced in the 1920s by French
designers Frères Mauméjean, and
are considered the some of the very
best on the island.
Guanche site Cenobio de Valerón Parroquia de
Nuestra Señora de
Cenobio de Valerón
5 8
la Candelaria, Moya
MAP D1 • GC-291 km 21
• Open Oct–Mar: 10am–5pm Tue– MAP D2 • Padre Juanito 9 • 928 62
Sun; Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun 00 07 • Open 6–8pm Mon–Sat,
• Adm (free for children under 10) 11am–noon, 6–8pm Sun
• www.cenobiodevaleron.com Clinging precariously to the side of
It’s not uncommon to see grain the Moya ravine, this church must
stores on Guanche sites, but none have been built by some very brave
comes close to the Cenobio de workmen. Completed in 1957, it is
Valerón. Located in a cave, this early a pleasing blend of towers and roofs
version of a pantry consists of over of varying heights. The best views
300 hollows, whittled out of the rock are from the GC-700 road from Guía.
face. Although access to it is easy
today, the Cenobio was built on an Parroquia de
inaccessible crag, to keep food Nuestra Señora
supplies out of the way of thieves. de la Candelaria
The early theory that the site was a
convent, where young girls lived a
life of celibacy away from society,
has long since been disproved.
Los Tilos de Moya
6
MAP D2 • Access via GC-70
and GC-703
Gran Canaria’s only natural laurel
forest may not be as impressive as
those found on other Macronesian
islands, but the shady trees are an
ideal spot for a hike or picnic. The
Canaries’ biggest expanse of laurel






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Northern Gran Canaria ❮❮ 83

Valle de Agaete
9 A CULINARY TREK IN NORTHERN
GRAN CANARIA
MAP C2 • GC-231 from Agaete
town centre
So far, even the finest engineers Santa María
have failed to link the Agaete Valley Gáldar de Guía
with the centre of the island, as the
steep Tamadaba precipice forbids Puerto de Moya
any possibility of construction. After las Nieves Arucas
snaking along the valley, the road Agaete Firgas
Valle de
fizzles out just after Los Berrazales. Agaete Los Tilos
Fruit orchards and coffee plantations Bodega forest
fill the valley floor, while the Los Berrazales
Tamadaba pine forest provides a MORNING
formidable backdrop. There is a
magnificent hike on a well-marked If the best way to get to know a
path all the way to Artenara, but place is through its cuisine, then
the walk is more manageable if you the north is where you’ll discover
start at the other end. Gran Canaria. Start the day in
Arucas, allowing half an hour to
visit the Parroquia de San Juan
Bautista, before taking a guided
tour and buying a bottle at the
Arehucas rum factory. You’ll pass
a few remote villages along the
GC-300 before reaching Firgas
(see p84). The unusual town centre
has a functioning gofio mill, so
sampling the most Canarian of
all foods (see p63) is a must. Head
through the Barranco de Azuaje
to Moya, where all cafés serve
local suspiros (meringues) and
bizcochos (crispy sponge cakes).
AFTERNOON
The road to Guía skirts the laurel
forest of Los Tilos de Moya. Detour
Panorama of the Valle de Agaete to Santa Maria de Guía; explore
the pretty old town and buy the
Rum Factory,
0 local cheese. Casa Arturo, on
C/Lomo Guillén, is the best place
Arehucas
MAP D2 • Era de San Pedro 2 to buy queso de flor (see p63),
generally considered the island’s
• 928 62 49 00 • Open Mon–Fri tastiest cheese. Continue on to
9am–2pm • Closed Sat & Sun Gáldar, taking in the Casa-Museo
The oldest rum factory in the Canary Antonio Padrón (see p80) and
Islands, operating since 1884, this is stopping to visit the Cueva Pintada
the official supplier of the Spanish (see p81) before joining the GC-202
Royal House. The rum at Arehucas to Agaete. In the village, follow the
is still distilled the traditional Cuban signs to visit the burial site Maipés
de Arriba (see p43) and then con-
way, from pressed sugar cane. tinue through the Valle de Agaete
The factory at Arehucas is more to visit Bodega Los Berrazales
about storage and bottling, with an (see p84), where they produce coffee
impressive collection of 6,000 oak in the most northerly plantation in
barrels, many of them carrying the world. Sample their wine and
signatures of visiting celebrities. coffee before back tracking to end
A brief tour of the factory concludes the day with a swim at Puerto de
with a tasting session and a chance Las Nieves (see pp34–5).
to buy at discount.
See map on pp80–81


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84 ❯❯ Gran Canaria Area by Area

The Best of the Rest


Jardín de la Marquesa,
Hidden Coves
1 5
Arucas
MAP B2, C1 & D1
MAP D2 • GC-330, Las Hoyas 2 The north coast is not noted for its
• 928 60 44 86 • Open 9am–1pm, beaches, but it has some quiet coves,
2–6pm Mon–Sat • Adm if you know where to look. The prettiest
These impressive botanical gardens, are on the Gáldar coast, but Playa
bordering an ornate 19th-century Sotavento north of Puerto de las
mansion, are home to well over 2,500 Nieves also deserves a visit.
species of flora, both native and
Gáldar Architecture
tropical, and some strutting peacocks. 6
MAP C1
The Iglesia de Santiago de los
Caballeros (see p47) dominates the
pretty plaza, but there are other
buildings of interest, such as the
eclectic Teatro Municipal, the 19th-
century casino, and the town hall,
which has a patio that is home to
the island’s oldest dragon tree.
Túmulo de La Guancha
7
MAP C1 • Gáldar to El Agujero
road • 928 21 94 21 ext 4441 • No
fixed opening hours; book in advance
This huge, circular construc tion is
Plants in the Jardín de la Marquesa Gran Canaria’s largest burial site,
with 42 tombs radiating from one
Natural Pools
2 central grave.
MAP C1 & D1
Huerto de las Flores,
As the north coast is dangerous 8
for swimmers, town councils Agaete
have created rock pools that are MAP C2 • C/Huertas • Open 9am–
constantly replenished by the sea. 2pm Mon–Fri
The best are in Bañaderos, San More than 100 species of tropical
Felipe and Roque Prieto. plant thrive in this small garden.
Firgas Town Centre
Sardina del Norte
3 9
MAP C1
MAP D2
Famous for its mineral water, Firgas The fine sandy beach here brings
is also known for its mill. Watch bathers from miles around on sunny
a demonstration and buy a bag weekends, so visit this fishing village
of freshly ground gofio (see p63). midweek if you want to find space to
put your towel down.
Casa-Museo Tomás
4 Bodega Los Berrazales,
Morales, Moya
Valle de Agaete
MAP D2 • Plaza de Tomás Morales 0
• 928 62 02 17 • Open 10am–8pm MAP C2 • 628 95 25 88 • Visit by
Mon–Sun appointment only
This museum honours Moya poet This San Pedro estate of unique
Tomás Morales, though for non- beauty is well worth the detour,
Spanish-speakers the interest especially to sample its delicious
lies more in seeing inside an fare of wine, coffee and the tropical
upmarket 19th-century home. fruits of Agaete Valley.
084-085_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 84 22/12/2016 17:09

Northern Gran Canaria ❮❮ 85

Places to Eat


Restaurante Dedo
5
PRICE CATEGORIES de Dios, Puerto de
For a three-course meal for one with half las Nieves
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
taxes and extra charges. MAP B2 • Ctra General Muelle Viejo
• 928 89 80 00 • Closed Tue • €
€ under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50
This huge seafood restaurant is
packed with lunching families
Marisquería Fragata,
1 at weekends. The fish soup is
Sardina del Norte
highly recommended.
MAP C1 • Avda Antonio Rosas • 928
Las Brasas, Firgas
88 32 96 • Closed Sun D, Wed • € 6
This friendly place offers old MAP D2 • Avda de la Cruz 36
favourites such as squid and octopus • 928 62 52 50 • €
alongside more original choices The barbecued meats and roast
including gooseneck barnacles. chicken attract diners to this no-frills
joint, where you can fill up on home
Casa Brito, Visvique
2 cooking at low prices.
Pasaje de Ter 17 • MAP D2
Las Nasas, Puerto de
• 928 62 23 23 • Closed Sun D, Mon, 7
Tue • €€ las Nieves
Barbecued meats in a cosy rustic MAP B2 • C/de Nuestra Senora de Las
setting. Leave space for dessert – Nieves 7 • 928 55 40 01 • €
the rice pudding (arroz con leche) Inside is cool, with marine-inspired
and crêpes are divine (see p62). decor, but the terrace overlooking
the harbour is the best place to
Locanda El Roque,
3 enjoy a leisurely lunch of prawns
El Roque
in garlic, or octopus and sardines.
MAP D1 • El Roque 58 • 928 61 00
Cafeteria Huerto de
44 • € 8
Eat Italian cuisine on the end of a rock Las Flores, Agaete
overlooking the sea. It is a culinary MAP C2 • C/Huerta • 928 55 43 82
experience you will not easily forget. • Closed Sat & Sun • €
Set amid tropical plants in a
delightful botanical garden, this is
an enchanting spot in which to enjoy
cake and locally grown coffee.
El Cápita, Puerto de
9
las Nieves
MAP B2 • C/Nuestra Señora de las
Nieves 37 • 928 55 41 42 • Closed
Mon–Thu D • €
Seafood restaurants abound here,
Interior of El Belingo but locals insist that this family-run
place outclasses the competition.
El Belingo, Arucas
4 Terrazza El Ancla,
MAP D2 • C/Leon y Castillo 3
Sardina del Norte
• 828 12 69 27 • € 0
El Belingo serves generous portions MAP C1 • Avda Antonio Rosas • 928
of classic Canarian dishes, presented 55 14 95 • Closed Mon • €
with a bit more flair than the average The menu may be small, but the
traditional restaurant. Occasional live views are panoramic at this little
music is a bonus. kiosk specializing in fresh fish.
See map on pp80–81
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86 ❯❯ Gran Canaria Area by Area

Central and Western

Gran Canaria


For years, the rugged central region could be traversed only by
a series of tough paths, known as caminos reales. Today, hardy
hikers continue to trek these old routes, though driving has long
since ousted walking as the main way of getting about. The west
of the island, however, remains largely unvisited and unspoiled.
The plunging hollows nature has sliced from the towering cliffs
hinder any road construction, meaning that the only way to explore
this breathtaking region is on foot. Just three scary stretches of
road lead to La Aldea de San Nicolás, the island’s remotest pueblo.

Tejeda
1
The main attraction of this town
is its splendid location in the centre
of the immense Caldera de Tejeda.
This huge depression measures
18 km (11 miles) across. It was
described by Spanish poet Miguel
de Unamuno as “a tremendous
upset of the innards of the earth”.
As well as the spectacular vistas,
there is a small art gallery and two
Tejeda, nestled in a huge caldera farming museums (see pp28–9).
AREA MAP OF CENTRAL AND WESTERN GRAN CANARIA
Playa dePlaya de San Pedro GC-70 GC-70
San Pedro
GuayedraGuayedra ZumacalZumacal GC-21 GC-21
Top 10 Sights
see pp86–9 GC-200 GC-200 Pinar de GC-75 GC-75
Pinar de
Fagajesto
Tamadaba
Places to Eat Tamadaba Fagajesto FontanalesFontanales Teror Teror
see p91 Playa del RiscoPlaya del Risco GC-220 GC-220
El Risco
El Risco Valsendero VallesecoValleseco
Valsendero
The Best of the Rest Punta dePunta de
de Tamadaba ral
see p90 la Arenasla Arenas Coruña Juncalillo Montañón NegroMontañón Negro ArbejalesArbejales
Juncalillo
de Tamadaba
Pa rque Nat u
Coruña
GC-21
Puerto de
Puerto de Pa rque Nat ural GC-21 GC-21 1668m1668m GC-21 San IsidroSan Isidro MadroñalMadroñal
la Aldea ArtenaraArtenara GC-42 GC-42
la Aldea
Acusa GC-210 GC-210
Acusa
Vega de
Cruz de Vega de
Cruz de
Caserones
Caserones Tejeda GC-15 GC-15 San Mateoteo
Tejeda
San Ma
LasLas
Cuevas del Rey
Lagunetas
Tejeda
GC-200 GC-200 La AldeaLa Aldea Cuevas del Rey Tejeda Lagunetas
de San Nicolásde San Nicolás GC-210 GC-210
Mederos TenteniguadaTenteniguada
Mederos
Roque
El Carr
El Carrizalizal Roque
La Culata
Bentayga
Bentayga La Culata Los LlanosLos Llanos Roque del
Roque del
Saucillo
El Pinillo
Punta dePunta de El Pinillo de la Pezde la Pez Saucillo
1690m
Artejevez
la Sogala Soga Artejevez Montaña del Humo GC-600 GC-600 1690m
Montaña del Humo
Roque
Casa de 1489m Roque
Casa de
1489m
Nublo
la Inagua
la Inagua Nublo GC-130 GC-130
El Hoyo El Juncal
El Hoyo
P a r q u e R u r a l
El Juncal
Playa Playa Ayacata
Ayacata
de Güigüí
de Güigüí Reserva Reserva Pico dePico de
NaturalNatural P a r q u e R u r a l Sandra las Nieveslas Nieves
d e l N u b l
Sandra
1621m
EspecialEspecial GC-200 GC-200 d e l N u b l o o 1621m GC-60 GC-60
de Güigüíde Güigüí Cueva las Niñas 0 kilometres0 kilometres 3 3
Cueva las Niñas
Cruz Grande
10 km10 km Cruz Grande 0 miles0 miles 3 3
086-089_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 86 22/12/2016 17:10

Central and Western Gran Canaria ❮❮ 87

Central and Western

Gran Canaria











View over the clouds at Pico de las Nieves, Gran Canaria’s highest peak
Pico de las Nieves
Ermita de la Virgen
2 3
de la Cuevita
The island’s highest point
naturally offers impressive vistas, MAP C3 • No disabled access
if you can only get there before the Artenara is one of the few places to
clouds do. After winter snowfalls, have maintained the tradition of
the area is swamped with islanders inhabiting caves, and tourists can
wanting to get a brief glimpse of stay in an adapted grotto. Although
the white stuff. The area is also the main church is an impressive
known as Pozo de las Nieves (“Well 19th-century construction, the
of the Snows”): nearby, there is an chapel closest to the hearts of the
abandoned well once used to collect locals is the Ermita de la Virgen de
snow, which was then taken to the la Cuevita. Gouged out of a cliff face,
capital for food preservation (see p28). the chapel has few religious images
other than the statue of the Virgen
AREA MAP OF CENTRAL AND WESTERN GRAN CANARIA de la Cuevita (“Madonna of the
Little Cave”). Oddly enough, she
Playa dePlaya de San Pedro GC-70 GC-70
San Pedro
GuayedraGuayedra ZumacalZumacal GC-21 GC-21 is the patron of both cyclists and
Canarian folklore groups. To reach
GC-200 GC-200 Pinar de GC-75 GC-75 the chapel, follow the signs from the
Pinar de
Fagajesto
Tamadaba
Tamadaba Fagajesto FontanalesFontanales Teror Teror main square for the 10-minute uphill
Playa del RiscoPlaya del Risco GC-220 GC-220
El Risco
El Risco Valsendero VallesecoValleseco walk (see p47).
Valsendero
Punta dePunta de
Pa rque Nat ural Coruña 1668m1668m GC-21 GC-21
de Tamadaba ral
la Arenasla Arenas Juncalillo Montañón NegroMontañón Negro ArbejalesArbejales
Juncalillo
Pa rque Nat u
Coruña
Puerto de
Puerto de de Tamadaba GC-21 GC-21 San IsidroSan Isidro MadroñalMadroñal
la Aldea
la Aldea ArtenaraArtenara GC-42 GC-42
Acusa GC-210 GC-210
Acusa
Cruz de
Cruz de Vega de
Vega de
Caserones Tejeda GC-15 GC-15 San Mateoteo
Caserones
Tejeda
San Ma
LasLas
Lagunetas
Cuevas del Rey
Tejeda
GC-200 GC-200 La AldeaLa Aldea Cuevas del Rey Tejeda Lagunetas
de San Nicolásde San Nicolás GC-210 GC-210
Mederos
Mederos TenteniguadaTenteniguada
Roque
El Carr
El Carrizalizal Roque Ermita de la Virgen de la Cuevita
La Culata
Roque del
Bentayga La Culata Los LlanosLos Llanos Roque del
Bentayga
Saucillo
El Pinillo
Punta dePunta de El Pinillo de la Pezde la Pez Saucillo
Artejevez
1690m
la Sogala Soga Artejevez Montaña del Humo GC-600 GC-600 1690m Roque Bentayga and
Montaña del Humo
Roque
1489m
Casa de 1489m Roque 4
Casa de
Nublo
la Inagua
la Inagua Nublo GC-130 GC-130 Cuevas del Rey
El Hoyo
El Hoyo El Juncal
P a r q u e R u r a l
El Juncal
Playa Playa Ayacata Although best known as a place of
Ayacata
de Güigüí Reserva Reserva Pico dePico de
de Güigüí
d e l N u b l
NaturalNatural P a r q u e R u r a l Sandra las Nieveslas Nieves worship and possibly a royal
Sandra
1621m
EspecialEspecial GC-200 GC-200 d e l N u b l o o 1621m GC-60 GC-60
de Güigüíde Güigüí Cueva las Niñas 0 kilometres0 kilometres 3 3 residence, this stumpy rock was
Cueva las Niñas
Cruz Grande
10 km10 km Cruz Grande 0 miles0 miles 3 3 also a stronghold, playing its part
in delaying the Conquest (see p28).
086-089_Top_10_Gran_Canaria.indd 87 22/12/2016 17:10

88 ❯❯ Gran Canaria Area by Area


architecture, and is also home to
EARLY CHRISTIANIZATION the impressive Basίlica de Nuestra
The pre-Hispanic name for the island’s Señora del Pino (see pp24–7).
westernmost town is unknown, as it
Playa de Güigüí
had been renamed after an Italian saint 7
long before the conquerors arrived. MAP A4
Mallorcan monks landed on the beach For those who complain that Gran
in 1342, and erected a chapel next to Canaria’s beaches are too built up
the ocean. Although the area was
densely populated when it took on and crowded, a trip to Güigüí is in
the title San Nicolás de Tolentino, the order. Its fine, dark sand is flanked
original name was lost. The hermitage by looming cliffs, creating a
was demolished in the 16th century. breathtaking sight. You will have
earned your day of sunbathing and
relaxation by the time you arrive
Cruz de Tejeda
5 here. Engineers have yet to tunnel
This large, intricately
through the west coast cliffs, so
carved crucifix of grey-green the only way to get to Güigüí is
stone marks the notional – on foot or by boat. Two hikes,
though not the precise from Puerto de la Aldea and
geographical – centre of the Tasartico, reach the beach.
island. These days, all roads Neither is easy, but, at
meet here, but for centuries two hours, the latter is
this was a junction only of considerably shorter. A hardy
the caminos reales, the fisherman in Puerto de la
network of “king’s highways” Aldea takes groups of up to
that once crisscrossed the Detail of 20 people to the beach, but
the Cruz
island. Most of the paths are de Tejeda it’s not cheap, and rough
still well maintained, offering stone crucifix seas often prevent the trip.
dramatic mountain hikes. Be aware that if conditions
These include a lush downhill worsen, he will not be able to
walk to Teror, various routes collect you, leaving you no alternative
around the island’s centre, and but to hike back.
a tough trek to Puerto de las
Nieves on the coast (see p29).
Teror
6
This charming and
historically important town
offers the island’s very best
examples of traditional













The traditional, brightly coloured architecture of historic Teror






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Central and Western Gran Canaria ❮❮ 89


ABOVE THE CLOUDS IN CENTRAL
AND WESTERN GRAN CANARIA
Caldera de Los Teror
Pinos de Gáldar
GC-21 Valleseco
GC-21
Cruz de
Artenara Tejeda
Tejeda Mirador Degollada
de la Becerra
Roque Nublo
GC-60 GC-600 Pico de
las Nieves
MORNING
This is a full-day drive, so you will
need to set out early and take
Peaceful Puerto de la Aldea some warm layers. Start off by
taking in Teror’s important church
Puerto de la Aldea
8 and museum, before heading for
nearby Valleseco. The town itself
MAP A3
Many say that it is the travelling, not doesn’t really warrant a stop, but
the lush ravines certainly do (see
the arriving, that makes the west p90). From here, follow the road
coast noteworthy, but Puerto de la to Artenara (see p90), stopping en
Aldea is a lovely place to recharge route to admire the astounding
your batteries before continuing along Caldera de Los Pinos de Gáldar
the relentlessly winding roads. For (see p57).
most of the year it’s eerily quiet, but In Artenara, follow the short walk
you might find a bit of life in the small to see the Ermita de la Virgen de
fishing harbour or one of the excellent la Cuevita (see p87). Follow the
seafood restaurants. The small pine road southeast to Cruz de Tejeda,
wood also warrants a look, as do where you can enjoy lunch at
Asador Grill de Yolanda (see p91).
the pre-Hispanic sites known as
Los Caserones. The town becomes AFTERNOON
more animated on 11 September
each year during the Fiesta del It’s mountain roads all the
Charco, when locals go to the way now, as you take the road
lagoon (charco) at the far end of south. If it’s a clear day, stop
at Mirador Degollada de la
the beach and try to catch fish Becerra (see p57) to take in
with their bare hands (see p69). views of Mount Teide and Roque
Bentayga before continuing to
Pinar de Tamadaba
9 Pico de las Nieves (see p87),
where you can park and walk to
The island’s largest pine forest
offers some welcome respite from the peak. It’s about a kilometre
the bustling towns and busy roads. each way, so allow at least an
hour and a half in total for what
You could stop at the picnic area promises to be the high point
for lunch, or perhaps make the of the day. Backtrack to the
30-minute walk from the Casa GC-600 and continue your circuit,
Forestal to the area’s highest point, stopping to take in views of
at 1,440 m (4,720 ft) (see p49). Roque Nublo, if it’s not hiding
in its trademark cloud. Stay
Roque Nublo
0 with the GC-60, as it snakes its
way through amazing scenery,
It’s easy to see why the
Guanches revered the looming form all the way to pretty Tejeda (see
p86) to end the day with coffee
of this 80-m (260-ft) monolithic and an almond cake.
volcanic rock, especially when it’s
seen up close (see p28).
See map on pp86–7
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90 ❯❯ Gran Canaria Area by Area

The Best of the Rest


Fontanales
Mercadillo, Vega de
1 6
San Mateo
MAP D2
MAP D3 • C/Antonio Perera Rivero The first sight to greet you on arrival
• Open 8am–8pm Sat, 8am–3pm Sun in this friendly pueblo is the church. For
Of the numerous mercadillos (farmers’ refreshment, drop in at Restaurante
markets) held around the island, Grill Sibora, a rustic rest aurant
Vega de San Mateo’s offers the very favoured by Moya locals and by
best selection of goods (see p65). city-dwellers looking for an escape.
La Cantonera, Vega de
Acusa
2 7
San Mateo
MAP C3
MAP D3 • Avda Tinamar The Acusa flatlands make a rather
• Open 10am–4pm Mon–Sat • Adm odd sight amid the craggy central
La Cantonera is the island’s largest mountains, and provide a superlative
ethnographic museum, set in a place to take a photograph of the
captivating 17th-century house, famous Roque Nublo (see p28).
with over 12,000 exhibits including
Cactualdea
furniture, handicrafts and tools. 8
MAP B3 • Carretera del Hoyo
Ayacata
3 • 928 89 12 28 • Open 10am–6pm
daily • Adm
MAP D3
Villages don’t come any prettier than The arid west of the island is not
this one, especially in February, known for its plant life, but the
when the trees are ablaze with pale climate is ideal for growing cactuses.
pink almond blossom. Stop for a More than 1,200 species thrive in
coffee and some delicious marzipan. this lovely private garden.
Andén Verde
Old Quarter, La Aldea
4 9
de San Nicolás
MAP B3
“Green Platform” is the rather inapt MAP B3
name given to this bewitching stretch Few travellers venture to Gran
of stark cliffs, which tower above the Canaria’s forgotten town; fewer still
ocean. Don’t miss views from the find its atmospheric old quarter, east
Mirador del Balcón (see p57). of the church (see p40).
Valleseco
Caldera de los Marteles
5 0
MAP D2
MAP D3 • GC-130
Offering wonderfully unspoilt natural It’s not unusual to see livestock
beauty, Valleseco is known for its grazing at the bottom of this pine-
quality wooden handicrafts and fringed volcanic crater. Enjoy fine
unparalleled hiking trails. views of Valsequillo and the capital.
The beautiful landscape
around Valleseco








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Central and Western Gran Canaria ❮❮ 91

Places to Eat


Grill El Pesebre, Teror
6
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one with half MAP D2 • C/El Mesón 35 • 928
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), 61 37 46 • Closed Mon • €€
taxes and extra charges. A vibrant venue for traditional dishes,
including enormous platefuls of
€ under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50
grilled pork, beef and chicken.
Sit inside or on the garden terrace.
Asador Grill de Yolanda,
1 Restaurante Marmitia,
Cruz de Tejeda
Cruz de Tejeda
MAP D3 • C/Cruz de Tejeda • 928 66 7
62 76 • €€ MAP D3 • Cruz de Tejeda • 928 01
Come here for the friendliest service 25 00 • €€€
on the island and huge servings of A hotel restaurant with elegant
meat. Try the sweet blood-sausage dining and magnificent views of the
croquettes, a house speciality and pine forest. The menu features local
much tastier than they perhaps sound. specialities with a creative twist.
Restaurante La Oliva,
2
Playa de Tasarte
MAP A4 • 928 89 43 58 • Lunch only
• Closed Mon • €
One of a very few restaurants on the
west coast, La Oliva overlooks the sea
and serves superb, fresh seafood.
Restaurante Arcos de
3
La Laguna, Valleseco
MAP D2 • Carretera 21 • 928 61 82 79
• €€
The rolling green hills of the “Dry Interior of Restaurante Marmitia
Valley” provide an unforgettable
Casa Del Caminero,
backdrop for a meal that is big on 8
seasonal produce. The eatery also Tejeda
regularly offers special menus. MAP C3 • Avda Los Almendros 5 • 609
16 69 61 • Closed Mon & Tue • €€
El Encuentro, Teror
4 A lovely quirky restaurant. As well as
enjoying a great meal, you could leave
MAP D2 • Plaza Del Pino • 928
61 37 86 • Closed Mon • €€ with one of the owner’s paintings.
A traditional restaurant in an elegant
Dejaté Llevar, Tejeda
colonial building on a picturesque 9
plaza opposite Teror’s basilica. Prices MAP C3 • C/Doctor Domingo
are slightly higher than in the average Hernandez Guerra 25, Tejeda • 928
Canarian restaurant, but the portions 66 62 81 • Closed Mon & Tue • €
are big, and the setting is delightful. A stylish, friendly restaurant, serving
delicious international dishes,
Restaurante La Cilla,
5 including vegetarian options.
Artenara
El Prado, Valleseco
MAP C3 • Camino La Silla 3 0
• 609 16 39 44 MAP D2 • C/Alcalde Vicente
An 80-m (260-ft) tunnel entrance Arencibia 7 • 928 61 83 07 • Closed
leads to a sun terrace with the Mon & Tue • €
best views of any restaurant on Only the freshest ingredients are used
the island. here. Try any of the Canarian stews.
See map on pp86–7
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94 ❯❯ Gran Canaria Area by Area

Eastern Gran Canaria


The east of the island may appear to be
something of an industrial wasteland, but
away from the GC-1 motorway lie some of the
island’s oldest towns, harbouring delightful
historical centres. But the area’s history
doesn’t start with the Conquest. This was the
most densely populated region in Guanche
times, a fact made clear by the varied
aboriginal settlements scattered throughout
the windswept hill tops and jagged ravines.
Café sign in Aguimes’ Old Quarter
AREA MAP OF EASTERN GRAN CANARIA
Jardín Botánico
Viera y Clavijo
Teror GC-1
Tafira A tlantic
GC-4
Monte Lentiscal Marzagán O c ean
GC-15
Santa Brígida Caldera de Bandama
San Isidro
Jinámar
Madroñal La Atalaya
GC-42 GC-80 San Antonio
Vega de Valle de La Garita
San Mateo San Roque Playa
GC-41 GC-41 Telde del Hombre
Valsequillo Telde
Melenara
Tenteniguada GC-130 Beaches
Lomo Magullo Salinetas
Cruz de Jerez
Las Breñas GC-100 Playa de Aguadulce
Tufia
GC-140
Cuatro Puertas
GC-130
Cazadores
Piletillas
Risco Blanco Ojos de Garza
Aguatona Punta de
GC-120
El Morisco Barranco de Gando
Guayadeque GC-1 Aeropuerto
Santa Lucía Ingenio de Gran Canaria
de Tirajana Carrizal Playa de San Agustín
Temisas GC-550 La Jurada
Agüimes
GC-65
Vargas
La Sorrueda Las Rosas
Corralillos Playa Vargas
GC-191
GC-100
Cruce de Arinaga
La Barrera GC-65 Playa del Cabrón
Balos
Arinaga
Sardina
Top 10 Sights del sur Vecindario
see pp95–7 A tlantic
Places to Eat El Doctoral O c ean
see p99 Pozo Izquierdo
The Best of the Rest
see p98 GC-1 Juan Grande 0 kilometres 4
0 miles 4
Previous pages Painted houses in Las Palmas
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Eastern Gran Canaria ❮❮ 95

Eastern Gran Canaria 1 simply to get lost in its narrow,
Jardín Botánico
Viera y Clavijo
winding streets. It is difficult to spot
Gloriously fresh air and, apart from the cave homes nowadays, as their
the sound of birdsong, almost total owners have usually added rather
silence provide the perfect escape unsightly extensions. However, if
from the buzz of the city or the tiring you peek through an open door,
mountain roads (see pp18–19). you’ll see the village’s cave origins.
Don’t miss a visit to Ecomuseo Casa-
Alfar Panchito, the cave home and
workshop of La Atalaya’s most
famous potter (see p45). Next door is
a workshop where local craftsmen
produce traditional ceramics, which
make excellent souvenirs.
Telde Beaches
4
MAP F3
Telde’s town hall has maximized the
appeal of the east-coast beaches by
building a 4-km (2-mile) promenade,
a lovely coastal walk. Starting in Las
Salinetas, you progress to Playa de
Melenara. There are some excellent
fish restaurants here. Next you pass
some low, pretty houses and the
harbour at Taliarte; Cofradía de
Greenery in the Caldera de Bandama Pescadores is the place to go for
cheap and tasty fish. Past the
Caldera de Bandama
2 lighthouse, the walk briefly leaves
the coast to skirt an ugly government
MAP E3
The Guanche considered this crater building. There then follows a stretch
of an extinct volcano a fine place to with natural rock pools and rough
live. Today, the striking crater offers seas. Playa del Hombre’s waters
a fine day trip for hikers, nature are favoured by daring surfers, while
lovers and wine enthusiasts – the beginners prefer Playa del Hoya del
volcanic soil is perfect for growing Pozo. Playa La Garita is a pleasant
vines, and bodegas line the approach strip of black sand lapped by calm
road to the crater. seas. The fried octopus served at
Casa Santiago is divine. Just behind
La Atalaya
3 the beach is a taxi rank, so you need
not retrace your steps.
MAP E3
The best way to see one of the island’s
oldest troglodyte settlements is Beachgoers on Playa del Hombre

















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96 ❯❯ Gran Canaria Area by Area
















Whitewashed houses line the cliff face at Tufia
Old Quarter, Agüimes
Tufia
5 6
MAP F3 • Exit 13 from GC-1
MAP E4
Agüimes was founded in 1487. • Guanche sites: entry by appointment
Already densely populated before the only; call 928 21 94 21 ext 4441
Europeans arrived, it was one of (Cabildo); no disabled access
the first post-Conquest settlements. Intriguingly, no one knows exactly
These days, it’s hardly a hectic town, when the Guanche sites in this
as the tourism boom has tempted hilltop settlement were constructed.
many inhabitants to the coast; but One thing that can be said of Tufia
the lack of traffic and modern build- is that it seems to belong to two
ings is precisely what gives Agüimes different epochs. A group of natural
its charm. A mishmash of traditional caves just above sea level served as
and Neo-Classical architecture lines home to primitive dwellers, but the
the quiet paved streets, with the low stone houses crowning the cliff
crowning glory being the Parroquia were perhaps the work of a more
de San Sebastián. As well as a top- developed society. Ideally located
notch restaurant (see p99), there is for spotting unwanted visitors,
a delightful museum of local history the village is surrounded by what
(see p44). appears to be a protective wall,
suggesting that its people had
some knowledge of defensive
strategies (see also pp42–3).
Barranco de
7
Guayadeque
Step back in time in the island’s
deepest ravine, once heavily
populated by Guanches but now
home to just a handful of cave
dwellers (see pp32–3).
Temisas
8
MAP E4 • GC-550
A visit to this hamlet is a must for its
gorgeous location and buildings. This
is the best place to admire traditional
rural architecture. The nearby olive
grove brings income to the village; it
is the island’s only producer of olive
oil, though it’s surprisingly difficult
A street in Agüimes’ Old Quarter to find anywhere to buy it here.






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Eastern Gran Canaria ❮❮ 97


A DAY IN THE EAST
ALTERNATIVE ENERGY
Ask anyone here what is the worst Santa Brígida Caldera de
thing about living on the east of the GC-80 Bandama
island and they are likely to come up La Atalaya Telde Playa de
la Garita
with the same response: the wind. Playa de
Even if you don’t venture out of your GC-100 Melenara
car, you’ll notice it. The palm trees here Cuatro Puertas Caves Playa de
all lean eastward, and women avoid Barranco de Ingenio Salinetas
wearing skirts. Windsurfers, of course, Guayadeque GC-1
are happy with the bracing conditions, Temisas
along with a group of scientists.
Elegant wind turbines are a familiar GC-65 Agüimes
La
sight on the eastern landscape, and Sorrueda
the Canarian Institute of Technology
continues to investigate further
applications of wind power. MORNING
Once you’ve had a chance to
stock up on Santa Brígida’s wines
(see p98), head to La Atalaya
(see p95) to buy some traditional
ceramics. Then make the round
trip to the awesome Caldera de
Bandama (see p95), allowing at
least an hour if you intend to
explore on foot. Take the GC-80 to
Telde (see p95), and wander
around the old town. You can
delve into the region’s history at
Cuatro Puertas on the GC-100.
Carry on to Ingenio (see p98),
The atmospheric Cuatro Puertas stopping at the Museo de Piedras
to buy local crafts. The town
Cuatro Puertas
9 centre here is worth a look, but
a better option for lunch is the
MAP F3 • Access from the
GC-100 between Telde and Ingenio Barranco de Guayadeque (see
• No disabled access pp32–3), with its cave restaurants
The main cave takes its name from and scenic picnic sites. Allow an
hour to drive along the ravine.
its four entrances. Without doubt the
most impressive man-made caves AFTERNOON
on the island, the dwellings are
connected by short tunnels, so it is The next stop is Agüimes, with
fun to explore. There is also a rare its cathedral-like church and
example of an almogarén, a series interesting history museum.
From here, it is a winding drive to
of small channels probably used pretty Temisas, overlooking the
for making offerings to the gods. Barranco del Polvo. After soaking
up the atmosphere of one of the
San Francisco, Telde
0 island’s last traditional hamlets,
you can either backtrack past
MAP F3
If you follow a narrow street opposite Agüimes and onto the GC-1, or
the museum, you will find a real continue past La Sorrueda, taking
jewel, Telde’s historical quarter. the GC-65 to meet the main
motorway. Whizz north to Playa
Some of the island’s oldest buildings de Salinetas, leave your car, and
line the tranquil plazas, hidden enjoy an easy walk along the
away in the labyrinth of cobbled coast. The beachside bars at
alleys. Make sure you look in on the Playa de Melenara are good for
simple Iglesia Conventual de San a drink before you continue your
Francisco, which houses a splendid stroll to Playa de la Garita.
Baroque stone altarpiece.
See map on p94
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98 ❯❯ Gran Canaria Area by Area

The Best of the Rest


Cuevas Blancas, you’ll see wild olive
trees and the pretty San Roque palm
grove of Canary Island Date Palms.
Old Quarter, Ingenio
5
MAP E4
Penetrate Ingenio’s ugly urban
sprawl and you will find its peaceful
historic centre. The town is
particularly well known for its crafts.
Wine Tasting in
6
Santa Brígida
MAP E3
Santa Brigida is the island’s wine
district. Most bodegas don’t hold
official tasting sessions, but they
Windsurfer at Pozo Izquierdo will let you try before you buy.
Pozo Izquierdo
Letreros de Balos
1 7
MAP E4 • Dirt track off GC-104
MAP E5
A great spot for windsurfers – experts between Cruce de Arinaga and
from across the globe congregate here Corralillos • 928 21 94 21 ext 4441
in summer for the championships. • Visits by appointment only
The cave drawings in the Balos
Basílica de San Juan
2 ravine are considered the most
Bautista, Telde
important in the islands.
MAP F3 • Plaza de San Juan • 928
Arinaga
69 02 85 • Open 9am–12:30pm, 8
5–8pm daily MAP F5
Begun in 1519, this is one of the Although skirted by an unsightly
island’s oldest churches. It has industrial estate, this small fishing
continuously evolved since then; village has plenty of charm.
the Neo-Gothic towers were added
Juan Grande
early last century (see p46). 9
MAP E5
Casa-Museo León y
3 Fans of historic buildings will enjoy a
Castillo, Telde
visit to Juan Grande, home to a rather
MAP F3 • C/León y Castillo 43–5 • ramshackle mansion and church.
928 69 13 77 • Open 9am–8pm Mon–
Golf
Fri, 10am–8pm Sat, 10am–1pm Sun • 0
www.fernandoleonycastillo.com Real Club de Golf de Las Palmas:
Politician Fernando de León y MAP F3; Ctra de Bandama s/n, Sta
Castillo and his engineer brother Brígida; 928 684 890; www.realclub
Juan grew up in this lovely house, degolfdelaspalmas.com • El Cortijo
which is also of interest as a perfect Golf Center: MAP E3; Autovía del Sur,
example of mudéjar architecture. km 6.4, Telde; 928 35 01 04
Spain’s first golf club was originally
Valsequillo Villages
4 located in Las Palmas, but moved
to a new site at the more prestigious
MAP E3
The villages surrounding Valsequillo Bandama. Nearby is another fine
ooze character, and if you drive course, El Cortijo. Both are open to
northeast from the village towards non-members on weekday mornings.
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