INDONESIAN NEW GUINEA - WEST PAPUA/IRIAN JAYA

BIRD'S HEAD basis. MAF's hangar and operations are located on the far side of the airport, 'B' 21155. Best to book at least one week in advance. By Sea Pelni Lines' four passenger boats, the Rinjani, Umsini, Dobons% and the Ciremai call at Manokwari every two weeks on their routesfrom Jakarta (or Surabaya) to Jayapura. Mixed freight/deck passage coastal steamers stop at Manokwari every week or two on their run along West Papua's north coast. For details, see "Transportation" on page 187. Getting Around Town Upon arrival at the airport, visitors are usually besieged by taxi drivers. Agree on a price beforehand-$5 should be sufficient to take you to any hotel. Altematively, just outside the airport gate, you can pick up the normal public taxi (Rp300) to the taxi terminal where you must transfer to a Kota taxi to take you to the hotels. All local public transport is by mini-bus, which hold 8 passengers and are called "taxis". The destinations are painted on the side above the back wheel. Within the town areas, there are designated stopping points marked by lines on the road. Outside the main town areas taxis stop when requested . Routes vary considerably around the main roads, depending onwhere passengers want to go. This is a good way of seeing the town, but can make it very difficult to be certain how long a journey will take. SURAT JALAN You can easily obtain a travel permit for Manokwari in Jayapura/Sentani, Sorong or Biak. If you plan to spend the night outside of Manokwari, check with the police to find out if you need an endorsement, then report to the local pol ice on arrival. (For more on the surat ja/an, see "Travel Advisory," page 178.) ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Arfak JI. Brawijaya, 'B' 21293, 22607. 13 rooms. This former Dutch officers' mess rates as a best buy: quiet, inexpensive with a good view over the bay and the Arfak Mountains. $13-$16 economy, $15-$19 fan, $17- $23 AC. All meals included. Hotel Maluku JI. Sudirnian. 'B' 21948. Clean, welcoming. $7- $10 econorny, $10-$14 standard,$15-$22 AC, including morning snack. Hotel Mokwam JI . Merdeka. 'B' 21403, fax: 21064.12 large, clean rooms. Restaurant serves Indonesian and Chinese dishes. $24-$27. Hotel Mulia JI. Yos Sudarso. 'B' 21320, 21328. 9 rooms. Very clean, in the heart of town. $11-$15 fan, shared facilities; $16-$23 AC, 201 including morning and afternoon snack. Hotel Mutiara JI. Yos Sudarso. 'B' 21582, 21788,21777, fax: 21152. 22 VIP rooms. International standard, most luxurious in town. AC, hot bath/shower, private balcony. Pleasant restaurant serving mainly Chinese food. One advantage of staying at the Mutiara is that you will get priority on the Merpati flights, as the hotel is owned by Merpati. Can be a big advantage in times offrequent cancellations. $30-$65, including breakfast and snack, excluding tax. Hotel Pusaka JI. Bandung. 'B' 21263. 16 rooms. Attached restaurant. $5- $17. Losmen Apose JI. Kotabaru, opposite the Merpati office. 'B' 21369. 9 rooms. Often full, so book ahead. Cheap and clean to boot! $5 fan, shared bath; $10-$12 AC, private bath, excluding tax. DINING "_, JI. S"d;emao, 22189. lod",,;.o .od CO> 1_.-.1 nese menu. Very popular with the local croWd. Padang Merantau JI. Merdeka. 'B' 21287. Reasonably priced Padang style ($1-$2.50). Across the road, the Coto Makasar and the Lumajang serve simple Indonesian dishes (75¢-$2). Also good for Indonesian dishes are Soponyono at JI. Trikora Wosi, ('B' 21287) and, opposite it, the Sukasari ('B' 21597). Spacious, very clean and excellent value. (60¢-$1.50). For the budget traveler, the food stalls at the night market, Sanggeng, are a must. Recommended are the BBQ fish and sate at $1.10. BANK Bank Mandiri. JI. JOgjakarta 1. Open Mon- Fri from 8am to 3pm. US$, A$, Can$, Sing$, £, ¥, D.M. , Gld, and French francs. Travelers' checks from Visa, Thomas Cook, American Express, and Citicorp are accepted. POST OFFICES Main office is at JI. Siliwangi; branch office at JI. Yos Sudarso. Hours: 8am-2pm, Mon-Fri, til 12:30pm Sat. Branch office officially is open evenings, 6pm-9pm, M-Sat, but not always. SOUVENIRS Cinta Alam JI. Yos Sudarso, on the upper floor ofthe new market. Plates, beads, some Asmat scupture and other carvings . Gallery Karwar JI. Pahlawan 7. Local batik, wood carvings and some traditional weaving. Piahase Weaving Group who are learning traditional weaving pattems using a back loom. Behind and to the left of St. Augustinus Church , JI. Brawijaya, is the Panti Asuhan Santo Vinsensius, where examples oftraditional weaving

202 PRACTICALITIES can be seen. Ask to see the women at work. They have some items for sale. While some pieces are beautifully made, others are exercise pieces and prices reflect this. Sumber Alam Jl. Sudirman 47 . Has lots of porcelain plates and vases (some quite old), along with beads still used as bride price, awful Asmat carvings and some dusty postcards. Usually closed, opens on request. For butterflies, contact Yayasan Bina Lestari Bumi Cenderawasih (YBLBC), Jl. Trikora Wosi, PO Box 175. »/fax : 22493 . Agency for the Arfak Mountain Birdwing Butterfly Farmers. Most mornings, newly emerged butterflies can be seen at the agency and usually there are caterpillars and pupae in the garden. EXCURSIONS Anggi Lakes in the Arfak Mountains is a very beautiful area known for its orchids, gladioli and birdwing butterflies. Merpati has two scheduled flights each week (Th, Sa; $13). MAF may also have space available, for about the same price. While there are no accommodations in the district, either the police or the camat (village chief) will help you find a place to sleep. Bring a sleeping bag, sweater and jacket as it can get chilly at night up there at elevations over 1,800 meters. Although some food is available locally, bring a few tins for supplement. Arfak Mountains Nature Reserve. Home to several species of bird of paradise and a number of rare mammals, such as the white cuscus and tree kangaroos. Permission from the Forestry Department (KSDA) is required to enter the reserve. For information and asistance, contact the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) Manokwari office in advance: WWF, Jl. Trikora Wosi Dalem, PO Box 174, Manokwari. -zr/fax: 22493 . Mansinam Island. Site of the first mission outpost in West Papua. Hire a motorized canoe near the fish market, behind the general market. To the south of the island, there is a coral-fringed bay for snorkeling and swimming. Off the west coast, it is sometimes possible to see a sunken WW II Japanese ship. The boats hold 10-15 passengers. Charter prices are negotiable, between $18-$3 0 for a half-day trip. Pasir Putih. Very beautiful beach with 2 reefs for snorkeling, about 5 km from the town center. Crowded on Sundays. Minibuses run from the terminal, 15$. Prafi village.Transmigration site of 8 villages. In the last settlement, the traditional woven cloth, kain timor, used as bride price, has been recreated by transmigrants. Minibuses run from the taxi terminal ($1.30-$1.75) and $1.10 to Warmare. Chartering your own minibus for the round trip costs about $15. If you decide to spend the night in this area, you have to report to the police at Warmare with your passport and surat jalan. There are no commercial accommodations, so it's either local hospitality or sleeping out. —updated by Jenny Foster-Smith Cenderawasih Bay Most visitors to the Cenderawasih Bay National Marin e Par k arriv e via Nabire . MAF {-& 21342, fax: 22329) also flies through Nabire. Pelni also services Nabire with the Rinjani and Umsini, each once every two weeks on their way to and from Jayapura and Surabaya. There is a cheape r alternative—th e ferry tha t runs Biak-Yapen-Nabire. Check with a travel agent in Biak for details. First, report to the police in Nabire with your surat jalan. Visitors should contact the WWF office in Nabire at Jl. Martadinata #15 , Nabire, (-& (0964) 21289 , fax: (0964) 21888), in advance. They can arrange to charter boats to some of the islands in the park for excellent diving, snorkeling, and birding. Anggromeos Island has sizeable bird colonies, Wairondi is home for a large marine turtle population, and Rumberpon Island boasts "world-class reefs." Sorong Telephone code is 0951. TRANSPORTATION Getting There Merpati. Jl. A. Yani HBM No. 8 1 , s 21344. (also: STN Mopah, Jl. PGT, & 21182.) Scheduled national flights: Makassar M, W, Sa (via Ambon) $16 8 Manado Th $13 8 Pelni. The Rinjani, Umsini, Ciremai, and Dobonsolo all stop in Sorong on their respective routes between Surabaya and Jayapura.(see "Sea Travel," page 186). Getting in and out Sorong's main airport is on Jefman Island, 20 km east of town. From Jefman, you have no choice but to get in a public "longboat" for the $3 trip to Sorong, or pay $2 3 to charter a boat yourself. Taxis at the landing site charge $3 to just about any destination in town, but if you are traveling light, a public minibus on the nearby main road is 15$. To return to the airport from town, your taxi (chartered or public) lets you off at the Pelni dock. You need a ticket (6$) to enter the dock area.

BIRD'S HEAD A ferry usually motors to Jefman Island in the early morning and again in the late afternoon. The one-hour ride costs 85¢ and gets you there in time for your plane. If you miss the ferry, you have to charter a boat ($23). ACCOMMODATIONS Grand Pacific Hotel JI. Raja Ampat No. 105, 'lI" 22631, 22632, fax: 23643. 48 rooms, AC. $37.50-$46.50 standard, $57.50-$66.50 deluxe, $80-$88.50 suite, including breakfast, afternoon tea and snacks. Hotel Batanta JI. Barito, 'lI" 23374, 21342. 24 roorns. Small dining room only. $9-$19. Hotel Cenderawasih JI. Sam Ratulangi 54, 'lI" 23740, 21966; fax: 23269. With 20 rooms, all AC. Favored by the few expats around. Large dining room, full menu. Singing entertainment on Mon, Wed and Sat evenings in the dining room; well-stocked bar. $10-$12 economy, $14-$17 cottage, $27-$32 standard, $46-$51 suite, including breakfast, tea and shoe shine. Hotel Citra JI. Pemuda, 'lI" 21246. 14 rooms. All with AC, with dining room, full menu. $12-$53. Hotel Indah JI. Yos Sudarso, 'lI" 22133. 33 rooms . White-tiled, 3-story hotel with an enclosed balcony which offers a good view of the area. Try to get a room on the third floor. Restaurant and car rental. $4.50-$12, including morning and afternoon snack. Hotel Pilihan JI. A. Yani, 'lI" 22363. 15 rooms . Better rooms with AC, otherwise with fan. Kitsch figures in yard to amuse guests. $10-$18. Intercity Hotel JI. Basuki Rahmat 106, 'lI" 23386, 23385, fax: 23361. 24 rooms . $16-$17.50 economy, $20-$30 standard, $45 executive. Irian Beach Hotel JI. Yos Sudarso, 'lI" 23782. $9.50-$12 economy, $14-$17.50 standard, $20-$24 deluxe. Losmen Memberamo JI. Sam Ratulangi, 'lI" 22067. 10 rooms. All AC. Pleasant dining room with rattan furniture, fair variety of dishes from $1.25 to $3. $17-$22. Sahid Mariat Hotel JI. Jend. A. Yani, PO Box 198, 23535, fax: 23431. 82 rooms. Part of the national Sahid chain of luxury hotels . $60-$72 standard, $91-$103 deluxe, $109-$303 suite, including breakfast, tax and service. DINING Dofior JI. Jend. Sudirman. Chinese, Indonesian food ($3.50-$7 jdish). A view of the sea; considered by some to be the best in town. Lido Kuring Pertokoan Lido, JI. Yos Sudarso, 'lI" 22971. Seafood is $2-$4, other dishes similarly priced. The specialty is grilled fish. Mini Kompleks Pertokoan Yohan, JI. A. Yani, 'lI" 22895. Mostly Chinese food and seafood; $1-$7 for the various dishes. Mona Lisa next to the Mona Lisa disco, JI. Sam 203 Ratulangi. Japanese food, $9-$12jdish; international cuisine, same price. EXCURSIONS P.T. Makmur Thomas. Kompleks Pertokoan Yohan A15, JI. A. Yani, Sorong, West Papua 98414. 'lI" 21183, 21953, 21594; fax: 21897. This agent, linked with Setia Tours, can arrange regional tours, guides and car service. Englishspeaking guides, $9jday. Car rentals starting at $2.50jhour. Doom Island, Pulau Buaya. $30jperson, min. 2 people. Doom Island tour, swimming off a fine sandy beach on Buaya, visit to some of the smaller islands. Kabra Island. $60jperson, min. 4 people. A visit to the Japanese cultured pearl farm. Waigeo Island. Approx. $500jperson (varies, d,pocd;,,,, 00 ","omb" Ie th, gmo p. Almo,t I~_ .. a full day at sea and 4-5 days scouting for birds of paradise. Batanta Island, other Raja Empat islands. (Variable.) Easier to get to than Waigeo, but the birds are somewhat more difficult to see here. - updated by Ann Rocchi/Dave Cox Fa kfa k It's best to visit Fakfak, Kaimana and Kokas from mid-September to November. Don't even consider May through August because of weather constraints. TRANSPORTATION Getting There Pelni. The Rinjani stops at Fakfak every two weeks on its route to and from surabaya and Jayapura via north Maluku. The Tatamailau stops in during its voyage linking south Sulawesi and the Nusa Tenggara islands. Rental of Dugout Canoe I Depends on many factors, such as size of boat, size of engine (usually 15 or 25 HP), iffuel price is included or not, supply and demand, skill in bargaining. As a rough yardstick, figure on about $40-$80jday. ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Marco Polo Just off the main street. 'lI"22537. Best view. No meals included, but there is a restaurant on the premises serving quite passable meals (grouper or red snapper, $2-$4, chicken $5). $9-$20.

204 PRACTICALITIES Hotel Tembagapura On the main street. ^22530. 12 rooms, some with AC. $9-$26. Losmen Sulinah Jl. Telussa, at the opposite end of the port, opposite the police station. 10 rooms. No fan or AC. $10 share facilities, $12, enclosed facilities, including all meals. Theowner can arrange the rental of motorized canoes. The losmen sits on the bay, so the hired boat arrives to pick up its passengers at the doorstep. Dugout canoe rental. $50-$70/day, with driver and assistant. —updated by Kal Muller Kokas | TRANSPORTATION | Getting There There are two shops in Fakfak who regularly send supplies to Kokas on their own large, open dugouts. One is the Kokas (in the city of Kokas it is called the Jaya), next to the Pelni office; the other is the Matahari (in Kokas, the Remaja), on the main street of Fakfak. Passengers pay $7.50 each way. In October 1994, there was about 17 km paved out of a total of 39 for the road from Fakfak to Kokas. Estimates for the completion of the paving ranged from late 1994 to 1999. Renting a Dugout Canoe Estimate on $12.50 for a 2-hour charter for a dugout with a 15 HP engine, plus $5 tip. In onehalf hour you can get to an incredibly beautiful spot on a small island near Ugar and Arguni. Goras is about 1 hour away by dugout with 15 HP. There are 2 rock art sites at Goras, 2 at Darembang, 1 at Forir, 5 or more at Fior, 4 at Arguni Island, 1 at Andamata, and 1 at Ugar. ACCOMMODATIONS The village chief, Irahim Heremba, has accommodations with meals, $5/day. —updated by Kal Muller Kaimana Telephone code is 0957. TRANSPORTATION Getting There Pelni. The Tatamailau serves Kaimana on its route along West Papua's south coast, between Makassar and Ambon and the East Nusa Tenggara islands. Rental of Dugout Canoe The owner of Losmen Diana can arrange the rental of an outboard-powered canoe to Bitsyari Bay. The biggest and most stable canoe in town is the Waikiki, which rents for $63-$86 per day, including driver. Unfortunately, it carries only a 15HP motor, but the nearby rock paintings can still be easily reached. Hotel Selatan Indah Jl. Brawijaya. s 21230, 21231. 12 rooms (all enclosed facilities). $14-$25 fan, $20-$45 AC, including all meals (breakfast is skimpy, but others are alright) and trip to and from the airport. Losmen Diana, on the main street. 14 rooms (none with enclosed facilities). The rooms look out over the sea and Kaimana's famous sunsets. $10, including all meals. —updated by Kal Muller

PRACTICALITIES Wamena is at the heart of the the Grand Baliem Valley, a long, narrow, fertile valley enclosed on all sides by mountainous peaks of 2,500 to 3,000 meters, home of the Dani, once dubbed "Shangri-la." Treks range from "easy" to "strenuous," culminating with the challenge of climbing Puncak Jaya (Mt. Carstensz), one of the world's three equatorial glaciers. Wamena Telephone code is 0969. ORIENTATION Leaving Sentani , you soar up over the lake, across the wide swamps of the Mamberamo Basin, through Pass Valley and on into the Grand Valley ofthe Baliem. Your airplane touches down at Wamena, 45 minutes from Sentani. You pick up your bags and as soon as you reach the main part of t he terminal, a smal l army of eager hands (each expecting a t ip, of course) grabs your bags to carry to one of the local .losmen, all of which are easi ly within walking distance. (Note: The Baliem Valley is officially "dry," meaning no alcohol is allowed. Bag searches have loosened up and t here is some tolerance of small amounts for a tourist's personal use, but we sti ll suggest you respect this ru le.) SURAT JALAN Upon arrival in the airport in Bal iem, the police check your passport and surat j alan. A visit to the police station is no longer necessary. If you are planning on leaving the val ley itself, you wi ll have to show your suratjalan and passport (or a photocopy thereof) to the police at kecamatan (subdistrict) centers. For more on the surat jalan, see "Travel Advisory," page 178. TRANSPORTATION Merpati has two flights every day (except Tuesday) to Wamena from Jayapura ($62). Once there, check their scheduled flights to the many small grass strips in the highlands, and their schedule is supplemented by the mission airlines (MAF and AMA), which also offer charters. Be sure your suratjalan specifies any area you wish to vis it outside Wamena. Merpati. In the air terminal or at JI. Trikora 41. ozr 31488. Book early, check and recheck. Flights can be cancelled for lack of passengers, breakdowns, and bad weather. Office hours: 7am-3:30pm, 7 days/week. MAF. The Missionary Aviation Fellowship maintains light aircraft and a helicopter and flies from Wamen a to numerous landing strips in the West Papua highlands. Their office and terminal are next to the Merpati air terminal (ozr 31263). Their weekly schedule (Mon- Sat) is confirmed and posted each Thursday. Check it at their office. Their first priority, of course, is logistical support to the Protestant missions, but they also take paying passengers on a space-available basis. You normally need to book at least one week in advance to get a seat on the regu lar flights. Call in the moming. Check on current prices. Bokondini 3 times weekly Tiom 4 times weekly Karubaga 3 times weekly Anggruk once weekly Maki 2 times weekly Boma once weekly Mamit once weekly Ke lila once weekly Kangime once weekly You can also charter the MAF's planes and helicopter. You have to pay for retum time, unless they can do some business on the way back. They wi ll, however charter for less than 1 hour flights . They need two weeks' notice for charters. Cessna 185 or 206 (5 people) Cessna 208 (9 people) Hughes 500 helicopter (4 people) To estimate your cost, figure the Cessnas fly at 200 km/hr (the 206 is a turbocharged version of the 185 and thus has a higher ceil ing). For a 185/206 this works out to $1.20/km or, split four ways, 30¢/ km. Note: arriving on a MAF flight doesn't entitle you to missionary hospitality. Missionaries lead busy lives and are not in the field to entertain travelers. Try not to bother them. They will, of I

2 06 PRACTICALITIES course, help you in an emergency. AMA. The Associated Mission Aviation, the Roman Catholic equivalent of MAF, sometimes offers charters out of Wamena. Check with the AMA office on Jl. Trikora, towards Hetegima. The planes are Cessna 185s. From Wamena: Enarotali $480 + 10% Ok Sibyl $370 + 10% Ewer $650 + 10% (also to Kokonau and Timika) Sentani-Ewer $1,050 ACCOMMODATIONS Other than the Hotel Jayawijaya, 3 km out of town, all the hotels/losmen are within walking distance. The best rooms are at the Nayak Hotel, just across the road from the airport. Baliem Pilamo Hotel Jl. Trikora 114, 31043, fax: 31798. 33 rooms. Best in town. Good restaurant serving shrimp or steak ($4), rice or noodle dishes ($1.50-$2), soup and vegetable dishes ($l-$3). $24-$33 standard, $42-$45 VIP (AC, hot water, TV). Hotel Nayak Jl. Gatot Subroto 1, P.O. Box 1. Directly across from the airport, s- 31067. Twelve rooms with bath. The restaurant has a large menu, including sweet and sour chicken or shrimp ($4). $18-$23. Losmen Anggrek Jl. Ambon, P.O. Box 12. 8 rooms. Restaurant for guests. $12.50-$22.50, including breakfast and tea or coffee. Losmen Sjahrial Makmur Jl. Gatot Subroto 51. 23 double rooms with bath attached. $7-$13. Pondok Wisata "Putri Dani" Jl. Irian 40. PO Box 124, Wamena 99541. 31223. 5 double rooms. Immaculate homestay, hot water, TV, provides transport to/from airport. Pak F.X., the owner, is also Wamena's homemade ice cream supplier. Get it at the source—chocolate, strawberry, durian, jackfruit flavors. Buffet lunch or dinner can be ordered, $8/person. $22 shared bath, $28 attached bath. Rannu Jaya Hotel Jl. Trikora, across from the Baliem Pilamo. 22 rooms. $24-$35. Srikandi Hotel Jl. Irian 16. 31367.12 rooms. Clean, cental, pleasant. Has a "backpackers" feel to it. Can be noisy, especially on Saturday night karaoke sessions. $15-$25, with coffee, tea and light breakfast. Wio Silimo Traditional Hotel Jl. Wesaput. Eight small rooms with twin beds, simple bath, $10. Also available, 5 honai. Luxury Baliem Valley Resort Reservations: Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 300B, PO Box 3419, Denpasar, Bali 80361, -a (0361) 751223, fax: (0361) 752779. Due to open in early 2000, this will be the Baliem Valley's first 4-star luxury resort. 40 bungalows designed in the traditional honai style, spacious round houses with thatched roofs, modern bathrooms and a veranda with a spectacular view overlooking the valley. The Resort offers nature walks and an extensive range of trekking and tour programs, including multi-day visits to the Dani, the Yali, Mt. Trikora, the Asmat, the jungle nomads in the West

HIGHLANDS Papua heartlands, as well as the spirit houses of the Sepik river tribes. Experienced guides, cooks and porters. $85S, $100D. Outside of town Hotel Jayawijaya 3 km out of town off the road to Pyramid. Eighteen rooms, none with attached bath. Five bathrooms upstairs, 5 downstairs. Rice paddies and Dani huts in back. Onlyfortour groups. Losmen La-uk Inn On the west side of the main road in Jiwika. $6 for bed and full board. DINING Most hotels/losmen serve meals and there are foodsta ll s around the market serving inexpensive Indonesian food. The Rumah Makan Mas Budi at JI. Trikora 106 ('l!" 31214) has rice and noodle dishes for $1.50 and chicken and crayfish for $5. The Shinta Prima, also on JI. Trikora, serves Chinese food and freshwater crayfish. Meals range between $2- $5. There are also three restaurants in back of the market: The Vemalia, specializing in Chinese and Indonesian dishes ($1- $2.50); the Gembira, rice dishes (75¢- $1); and the Minang Jaya, rice and meat (75¢- $1). The Karaoke Baliem Cottage on JI. Thamrin is in full swing from 7 pm- 11 pm. BANK Bank Rakyat Indonesia JI. Trikora. Will change $US, $A, ¥, D.M., French francs. They accept American Express, Bank of America, Thomas Cook's, Bank of Tokyo, and Visa Australia travelers' checks . Hours: Mon-Thurs, 8am-12:30 pm; Fri ti l 11:30am and Sat t il 11am. COMMUNICATIONS The post office, on JI. Timor, is open Mon- Thurs from 8am- 2pm; Fri til11am and Sat til 12:30pm. The local warte! at JI. Thamrin22 is open 24 hours for domestic and international direct dial phonecalls and faxes. SHAVE AND A HAIRCUT Pemangkas Rambut Bangkalan JI. Trikora, next to the market. Haircut $1, shave 30¢. A massage is included. SOUVENIRS Souvenirs avai lable at Pasar Nayak and in the souvenir shops. You will probably also be offered items while you are sitting in your hotel lobby or in a restaurant. Vendors can be tenacious . The most popular souvenir is a horim, or yel207 low penis gourd, available in various sizes and shapes. Prices range from $1-$5 if "decorated" by a local (non-Dani) merchant. A bow with a set of arrows, $5-$10; noken (net bags) $5-$15, depending on size. Strands of shell money, sewn on belts, cost $4 on up, depending on the quality of the cowries. Long, narrow breast-plates of tiny shells sewn together (wa!i noken) run $15-$20. Various ornamental necklaces, with pig's tusks and feathers, $5-$7. Determining a fair price for a stone adze is difficult. They range from $4 to a whopping $150, depending on the type of stone used: greenish is the most expensive, fol lowed by the blu ish hues. Check the binding to make sure the stone won't fal l out even before you get it home. Note: Some ofthese items may be made with protected species, so look at them carefully. Feathers of any kind will alert a baggage inspector back home, as wi ll lizard skin. Stick to the net bags and gourds if you are not sure. TRAVEL AGENCIES As interest in West Papua has grown, so have the number of operators bringing in tourists. A number of groups, based in Jakarta, Bali or Ujung Pandang have begun bringing cl ients to the Baliem Val ley and the highlands. For any tour that requ ires an inland flight out of Wamena, at least two weeks' notice is required to reserve a plane. All the operators will meet their clients at Sentani airport and provide accommodations there for the first night. We suggest you figure out where you would like to go, and write or fax one of these operators well ahead of time. Chandra Nusantara Tours and Travel JI. Trikora 17 (next to the Sinta Prima Restaurant), PO Box 225, Wamena. 'l!" 31293, fax: 31299. Or fax, in Jayapura: (0967) 22318. This outfit is run by Sam Chandra, who is very experienced in taking people to the highlands. Chandra offers several different tours, covering the Baliem Valley, Yali country, Lake Habbema and Trikora, the Asmat, and some very traditional lowlands groups. His operation is very well run. A sample of Chandra's tours (all minimum of two people): 5-day Baliem Va lley tour. Exploring the valley around Wamena, a pig feast, and two nights in traditional Dani huts slightly modified for westerners. $345/person. 22-<.1ay Remote Tribes Trip to visit the Koroway, Kombay and Yali. Travelling by mission plane, motorized canoe and foot. Features rainforest walking, treehouse tribes and a Yali pig festival. $1, 785/person, for 4-8 people, all inclusive. 12-day climbing Mt. Trikora. Tent and cold weather clothes are essential. Your guide will only go halfway up the mountain with you. In good weather, you can climb up to t he peak and back again from base camp in a day. Bring very heavy leather gloves, as the rock is extremely I

~ -. 208 sharp on Trikora. This is a mountaineer's trip, not for tourists. $610/person. Insos Moon Wijaya Tour & Travel. Run by John Wolff, Hotel Nayak (opposite the airport of Wamena), PO Box 57, Wamena. "n'" 31067. We recommend John Wolff for his pioneering work in opening up many areas to trekkers, his connections with the military in getting permits and the fact that he has himself walked to many places with his groups. He owns the Nayak and Jayawijaya hotels in Wamena, and lives there most of the year. Wolff also offers plenty of long hikes for those in good physical condition. See also Insatra Exclusive Tours mentioned in the"Recommended Travel Agents" section of the Travel Advisory, page 183. TRAVEL IN THE HIGHLANDS Several tourist attractions around the Baliem Valley can now be reached by minibus on a dirt road network from Wamena: Dani villages, mummies, markets, and caves. Of course, al l the crowds go to these places, and the experience may not be what you had in mind. In and around the Baliem (as in life in general), the further you walk, the more rewarding the view, and the more personal , and more unsullied by commercialism, the experience. One of the best strategies for a long trek is to fly out and walk back. This is particularly important if you are under any time constraints, as it lets you get much further out. These walks are real adventures, through beautiful country and not very difficult if you have time and are in relatively good physical shape. Make sure your suratjalan covers your destination before you leave, and bring along any supplies you need that you don't think you will be able to get in your destination. Remember, in most Dani villages you cannot so much as buy a pack of cigarettes (although if there is a schoolteacher there, he might have a few items) although sweet potatoes and other essentials are available. If you have a good guide in Wamena you have worked with before, you may want to fly him out as well , but remember that although guides from Wamena might speak English, they probably know their way well only around the valley itself. You can find guide/porters at the other end, perhaps enlisting the aid of schoolteachers or policemen to arrange this. (If you have the budget, you could bring one guide from Wamena who speaks English and hire another at your destination who knows the trails.) Guides. If you arrange your trip through a travel agency, a guide and porters will come with the package. On your own, you can pick up a guide when you arrive in Wamena- either at the airport or at your hotel/losmen. Local guides who speak a bit of English charge $15/day, plus their PRACTICALITIES food and Cigarettes. Porters run $3/day, plus food and smokes. If you know some Indonesian, you can hike by yourself, frequently asking for directions (if there's anyone around to ask). But trails often run off into the gardens and you might have to backtrack-often. We recommend always using a guide. For a longer trip, your guide can help you estimate how many porters you will need. Minibus/Taxis. Public minibuses run everywhere in the valley the road does. Some sample fares from Wamena: Ibele (55¢), Uwosilimo (80¢), Sugokmo ($1.10), Pugima (50¢), Walesi (50¢), Kurima ($1), Tulem ($1), Pass Valley ($4, 4 hours each way), Maki ($5). To charter, multiply the usual fare by 12, or figure about $6.50/hour. You can negotiate a separate price for waiting time. Taking a minibus to the furthest point it can reach on your planned route is a good way to get out of the valley quicker. It costs $100 to charter a minibus to the Lake Habbema area, one-way. It is also possible to hitch a ride with road construction crews who are working in that area. Check with your losmen for information. Hiking. As long as you stay in the valley, walking is level and easy. Ifthe side valleys require uphi ll trudges, the scenery makes the effort worthwhile, especially in the Wolo and Welesi Valleys. Agency tours cover several areas of the Baliem, but with a little Indonesian and some initiative, you can easily plan your own itinerary. The rainy season in the Baliem is from October to December with the driest months (theoretically) being June and July. But it's not worth it to plan your trip for the drier season, because it still rains plenty. When it does rain, it's usually in the late aftemoon, at night or early moming. It's much more pleasant to walk under a cool, cloudy sky than the blazing sun, although parts of the trail can get very muddy and slippery. In many places you have to clamber over stone or wooden fences but there's always a system of stones, logs and branches where the trail comes up to a fence. For short hikes (2 hours or less) and retuming to Wamena or Jiwika to ovemight, only a few essentials are required: hat, sunscreen, drinking water, sunglasses, tennis shoes and a waterproof jacket. For longer hikes, bring all all of the above plus sturdy, comfortable boots. For ovemighting, bring a sleeping bag or blanket, and insect repellent. You can almost always stay with government officials or in a Dani honai. (If you will be traveling to places where there are no villages, bring a tent.) Figure on paying $5/night for accommodations . Although you can often purchase food (but not meals) in villages, it's best to bring some of the essentials such as rice, t inned fish, coffee, sugar, spoons, plates and cooking gear. Toilets, if any, are of the squatover-hole variety. Bring toilet paper unless you

HIGHLANDS can adapt your sensibilities to the prevailing water and left hand method. Walking Times. For the estimates below, figure a day equals 8 hours of walking: Wamena- Pyramid 1 day Pyramid- Bokondini 1 day Bokondini-Karubaga 1 day Karubaga- Mulia 3 days Mulia- Sinak 3- 6 days Sinak- Beoga 4-5 days Beoga- liaga 7-10 days Wamena- Lake Habbema 3 days Wamena- Daelah 1 day Daelah-Tiom 1 day Tiom- Karubaga 1 day Photography. Men wearing penis gourds and grass-skirted women make exciting photo subjects. They will also ask to be paid for participating in your exotic photo opportunities. Don't grumble, as this is the only direct benefit most Dani receive from foreigners, who spent a lot of money getting to the Baliem to see them. Aside from a few menial jobs in hotel restaurants, tourist dollars flow into non-Dani pockets. Sometimes, if you take a series of photos, your subjects might ask for more money. We suggest going along with any reasonable demand, up to, say, Rp 1,000. Outside of the valley, most people will not ask for payment to be photographed. There is usually a line waiting to photograph the Jawika mummy. Cost is $2.50 for a maximum of 5 photos. Ceremonies and dances. As soon as you arrive in Wamena, and wherever else you go, ask if there are any ceremonies. Births, marriages, first menstruation, first wearing of the penis gourd and funerals are occasions for Dani rituals throughout the year. If you happen on any of these ceremonies, find the kepa/a suku (clan chief) or whoever is in charge to obtain permission to photograph . Expect to pay $6-$30 for the privilege. -updated by Ann Rocchi/Dave Cox Climbing Puncak Jaya The peak of Puncak Jaya (formerly known as Mt. Carstensz), 4 ,884m, can be reached only by walking for 6 days from lIaga through humid jungles, swampy highlands and rocky terrain. This is the highest peak between the Andes and the Himalayas. This tour (15-20 days roundtrip from Biak) can be done throughout the whole year, as there is no settled weather season in West Papua. PREPARATIONS One must be in perfect health , have the stamina to hike for 7-8 hours every day and have a good sense of balance. As this hike is rated III-IV in difficulty, it is only for experienced mountaineers. Camping and mountaineering outfit (tent, sleep209 ing bag, rain-proof clothes, leather gloves, highquality hiking boots, rope, crampon, ice-axe) must be carried. The final requirement is a special mountaineering permit (surat ja/an) which involves an expensive and time-consuming procedure in Jakarta. It is recommended to book this tour through an authorized and experienced Indonesian agent, such as Insatra Exclusive Tours, run by Rudy Wil lem (see "Travel Advisory, " page 183) or Trekmate Outdoor Adventures, JI. Lamandau Raya 14, Kebayoran, Jakarta 12130; 'a' (021) 710-186, fax: (021) 7206927. Prices for the round-trip from Biak vary from US$3,000- US$5,000/person or more, depending on the number of participants in the group. Obtain detailed offers from the above agents well in advance. Allow 3- 4 months at least to get the mountain permit. In addition to securing the mountain permit, the local agent wi ll arrange for a supply offood, a rel iable, English-speaking local guide, porters who will carry tourist and mountaineering equipment and food , and chartered planes (Twin Otter) from Nabire to lIaga and return. EXPEDITION Fly from Biak (daily flights) or Jayapura (daily I flights via Biak) to the coastal town of Nabire '__ , for an overnight stay. A chartered Merpati Twin- • Otter will take you to lIaga (2,300 m), a small vilage at the foot of the Sudirman Range. This is where the porters are hired, the supply of sweet potatoes is bought and the mountain permits are checked again by police and mi litary commanders. You must wake up at dawn for an early start because the rains start at noon or early afternoon . On the first day, it will be a constant climb through tropical rainforest for 8 hours to Kama II, the first camp (elevation 3,500 m). The second day is another full 8 hours of walking, crossing the Zengillorong Plateau, staying at 3,500 m, passing through swamps covered with ferns, rhododendron, and crippled firtrees. Destination : Camp 2 on the Aminggame River. The third day starts with wading through the river several times . You will reach Camp 3 (Mapalabolum) on the Plateau after 7 hours of hiking. Another 8 hours of trekking on the fourth day will take you over the Kemabu Plateau and along two mountain lakes to arrive at Camp 4, Rock Shelter Koomalenikime. On the fifth day, when the summit of Puncak Jaya is sighted for the first time, all the porters will start shouting, "Dugundugu," which means "Slush mountain!" To reach the day's destination, the 2 Larson Lakes (4,000 m), you have to cross 3 rivers and pass Discovery Lake (about 6 hours). Stay overnight on the Lake Larson site in front of Rock Shelter Mapala at the

~ -. 210 foot of snow-covered mountains. To get to Base Camp (4,251 m), you must cross the New Zealand Pass (4,500 m) to reach Meren Valley around noon. Pitch tents at one of the glacier lakes. The porters wil stay further down below "Zebra Wall," where they can find rock shelters and firewood. This is the starting point for excursions for the next 3- 4 days, depending on weather conditions, such as mist, rain, snow, and hail: a) Puncak Jaya (4,884m): hard limestone rock climbing for 6-9 hours, depending on weather conditions and capability of the climbers. Pay attention to extremely sharp, wet or icy rocks. Wear leather gloves! b) Ngga Pulu (4,862 m): reach the summit after 4 hours of walking on the Meren Glacier - enjoy the splendid view over the jungle to the Arafura Sea glistening at the horizon 80 km to the south. c) East Carstensz Top (4,810 m): about 3 hours walking over the Carstensz Glacier to reach the -4peak. There is a close view of the huge copper mine of PT Freeport. You can even heartheir machinery working. However, it is forbidden for tourists to pass through the mine site for a shorter way back to the modern world, i.e. via Tembagapura to the airport of Timika. Therefore, you have to hike back to llaga (about 5 days) and report back to the police again. The Dani tribesmen will celebrate their safe return by having a pig slaughtering feast with native dances which you may also enjoy on your last day in , the highlands before returning to Nabire by chartered Merpati plane. -by Rainer Haarring Climbing Mt. Trikora To reach the second highest peak in West Papua requires 9 days of trekking. PREPARATIONS You must be healthy and in good physical condition. The daily walking time is 7- 9 hours. It is important to be sure-footed and steady to wade through fast flowing rivers or to cross them over swaying suspension bridges . Sometimes the trails are quite wet and muddy especially in the tropical rainforests where it rains almost every day. Your tour operator in Wamena must obtain a special permit (surat ja/an) from the police, must hire a cook and porters, and must get sufficient food for everyone for the 9-day trek . Every member of the group must have their own porter. Tour operators charge US$900 -$1,000jperson for this tour, depending on the number of partiCipants. This fee includes a guide, porters, food , and tents. PRACTICALITIES EXPEDITION Day 1: Early in the morning, take a minibus from Wamena to Elagaima, where the trek to Mt. Trikora begins. You leave the Baliem Valley and climb slowly, but steadily, through sweet potato fields to lbele, a former missionary outpost with an airstrip. In the afternoon, you arrive at Thaila, the last village before the mountain region and the last opportunity to buy sweet potatoes. Stay overnight in a tented camp. Day 2 : Ascend narrow trails through tropical rain forest for about 8 hours. Cross swift streams on the way up to scenic Lake Habbema (3,300m). Pitch tents. Day 3 : Another 7 hours of hiking across the swampy highland plateau covered with orchids, rhododendron and ferns, until you reach the Rock Shelter Samalak (3,800 m), the base camp for the ascent to the peak. The porters rest here for 3 days by the open fire. The rock shelter provides sufficient space for the entire group. Day 4-Day 6: Adjust to the altitude and enjoy the interesting alpine flora, as well as the fascinating view. lfthe weather is fine, you can climb up to the peak in about 5-7 hours. There is no permanent snow at the top. You need a reliable guide who will lead you on the best route to the top of the mountain . You do not need special equipment. However, it is useful to bring along leather gloves because of the sharp rocks . Day 7: Descend in about 8 hours to a little hut called "Konopa", in the rainforest on the way to Wallai. Overnight stay in a tented camp. Day 8: Walk for about 6 hours through tropical rainforest. There are many tropical flowers along the trail. Quite often, you have to balance your way along big logs which are wet and slippery. However, the porters are quite helpful supporting you. The tents wi ll be put up at Papililo, the first village after leaving the forest. Day 9: Easy descent through farmers' fields towards the Baliem Valley. After passing through the vi llage of Wal lai and Walesi, you return to Wamena in about 9 hours. - by Rainer Haarring Yali Highlands Whereas the Dani inhabit the Baliem Valley and the Western Highlands, the Yali live in the highlands east of Wamena. In the past, this tribe had a reputation for being extremely cruel and crafty warriors. Today, you meet peaceful, friendly people, of whom about 50,000 live in the area around Angguruk, Kosarek and Ninia. PREPARATIONS This 10-day trekking tour for hikers in good health must be well-prepared for in Wamena. A

HIGHLANDS guide, a cook and porters to carry the food and cooking utensils should be hired. Tents are not needed. A permit (suratjalan) must be obtained from the police headquarters in Jayapura. The tour operator must arrange to fly (through MAF Wamena) sufficient amounts of food to Angguruk for the stay there and the onward trek to Kosarek. Vegetables and Irish and sweet potatoes are available only on Tuesday and Friday, the market days in Angguruk. Prior to the departure from Wamena, arrangements must be made with MAF or SIL (Summer Institute of Linguistics, Jayapura) Airport Base Managers to fly the group back from Kosarek to Wamena on a charter basis on a fixed day. The flying time is 30 minutes . Tour operators are charging US$700--$800jperson, depending on the number of participants. The fee includes guide, porters, food, and lodging, but excludes air fares. TREK To reach the Yali region, take a taxi from Wamena to Sugogmo. After crossing the Wamne river, follow the a dirt road along the Baliem River. You will pass Hetigima, where the AMA missionaries built the first airstrip in 1954. At Sugogmo, the road leading to the east ends. This is where the real trek begins. A small trail leads down to a suspension bridge which crosses the gurgling Baliem River. Follow the Baliem on the eastem side through Seinma. Climbing slowly, you can enjoy a marvelous view back into the Grand Baliem Valley. After an hour of hiking, you leave the Baliem and follow the Mugwi River. After crossing it at Duarima, the trail climbs continuously up to Yahosim. It leads through fields of sweet potatoes and vegetables. The journey from Wamena to Yahosim takes about 8 hours. You can stay overnight here at the primary school. The airstrip is no longer in use. The second day's 7-hour hike brings you to the village called Kiroma , at the foot of Mt. Elit. Stay at the little house of the local security guard (hansip). The cook will prepare the food in the honai, where the entire group can sit around the fireplace and enjoy the cozy atmosphere. It is a good place to dry wet clothes overnight. Leave at dawn the next day in order to climb the 3,600 m high Mt. Elit before the usual afternoon rain. Pass through dense tropical rainforest where the trail is quite muddy because it does not dry up during the sunshine hours. The following climb (3 hours) is easy. Mt. Elit does not have a real peak; instead, there is a wet, swampy plateau. After all, the estimated rainfall on this mountain is about 5,000-6,000 211 mmjyear. There are rare orchids and rhododendron flowering. A few years ago, German missionaries built 2 huts from zinc plates to serve as a shelter for local people who crossed this mountain on their way to and from Wamena. Previously, people sometimes froze to death when they were caught by sudden freezing weather on top of the mountain. The way down on the eastern side is a bit steep, however, poles and ladders serve as good supports. After an hour's walk through the rainforest belt, the view opens towards the south-eastern highlands of the Yali area with Pronggoli, the day's target, below. You can stay at the missionaries ' guesthouse. The hike from Kiroma over Mt. Elit to Pronggoli takes 9- 10 hours. The fourth day takes you up through sweet potato fields to the Fung-Fung Pass and down to Angguruk on the Jahuli River. Trekking time: 7-8 hours. Relax in the friendly, spacious guesthouse of the hospital Rumah Sakit Effata, operated by the Diakonia Foundation, belonging to the Portestant Church of Indonesia (GKI). Angguruk is a good place to rest and relax for 2-3 days, making daily excursions to the surrounding villages , such as Pasikni, Muhum, Wanijok, Walei. The Angguruk airstrip is served weekly by MAF which supplies the community with their basic needs. Besides the pastor and his evan- I gelists, there are the medical doctor, his nurses, .~_ , 4 teachers , and an agricultural cooperatives co- • ordinator. On the second part of the trek to Kosarek, the trail leads from Angguruk down to the Ubahak River, where there is a good bridge, and then up again, steeply, on poles and ladders to Helariki, from where you can enjoy a panoramic view back towards the whole Angguruk area. Onwards to Mimbeam, the day's destination, in 7-8 hours, you pass through tropical forest, where you may watch some of West Papua's birds, such as the white cockatoo, the flightless cassowary, parrots, the black sicklebill, the red lory, the mambruk (crowned pigeon), or even the bird of paradise. The Obalihi River and the Pundan River have to be crossed to reach Mimbeam. Stay at the Public Health Post. The next day is easy trekking through farmers ' fields to Telampela (4-5 hours), where visitors may stay overnight at the teacher's house. The last day of this tour takes you over the Jenggo Mountain (2,100 m) and further on through Serekasi to Kosarek (6 hours). At Kosarek, visitors can stay at the village guesthouse. From Kosarek, fly back to Wamena on the pre-arranged MAF charter. -by Rainer Haarring

I Timika lies between the seaport at Amamapare and Tembagapura (Copper City), the Freeport company town that is now home to 17,000 staff, family, and mineworkers. Timika, which has become economically affluent, is not geared for tourists. There are no travel agencies catering to foreigners, so don't expect to run into English-speaking guides. Only the Sheraton Hotel has English-speaking staff and they could help make travel arrangements on an informal basis, but this may take time. While fascinating from a sociological pOint of view, there are few tourist attractions in the Timika area. It is, however, a gateway to the Asmat area, as well as the lesser-known but equally interesting Kamoro culture located much closer. Prices in US $. Telephone code is 0979. AC=Air-conditioning. ORIENTATION A chunk of the south-central part of West Papua, centered around the town of Timika, boasts of the fastest growing economy of all West Papua, and probably the entire country of Indonesia as well. A large mining company, Freeport Indonesia, has had mining operations in the mountains to the north since the early 1970s. The company built an impressive infrastructure which includes a port, a road system and an airport. Attracted by these modern facilities, the government has made this area one of the rnain centers of transmigration from Java. The town of Timika, which started as a few shacks built by West Papuans working as laborers on the road and the airport, began to take off in the mid-1980s to becorne a sprawling town of perhaps 50,000 inhabitants. Statistics are hard to come by as the growth of the town has been s. Tip,uka Tg. Steenboom Barge Loading A Timika . Not to scale chaotic and unplanned. It is a relatively expensive town, as rnerchandise has to be shipped from afar, mostly frorn Surabaya or Makassar, first to the south coast of West Papua, then up the Wania River, with the last stage to Timika by truck on an awful road, due for upgrading. Twelve transmigration sites, nine villages and Freeport's town of Kuala Kencana are all linked to Timika by a road network which is slowly improving. Of all the areas in West Papua providing more than rudimentary facilities, none has a better combination of attractions than the area of Timika. If anyone has heard of West Papua, it's either the Baliem Valley or the Asmat. Those places, however, are not easy to reach, and once there, the facilities are short of stellar. Meanwhile, in the Timika area, thanks to the investment in infrastructure by Freeport Indonesia (a huge, American-based mining company), you have the best landing strip east of Tembagapura Ertsberg • A to Concentrator '" Tramway Tunnel Road to Freeport Mine

TIMIKA Makassar, the best hotel on the island (along with many lesser and cheaper accommodations), a good network of roads, and the boom town of Timika. And, thanks to the mining company's wide-spread malaria control program , this disease has been brought under control in the area. TRANSPORTATION By Air The town ofTimika is well connected by scheduled fl ights with westem Indonesia via Makassar, as well as Biak, Jayapura and flights to Manado via Sorong. In late 1999, a weekly charter flight was opened to Darwin , run by an Australian travel agency. Round trip is $430. This flight is open to the public and, in its initial stages, partially subsidized by Freeport. The Indonesian consulate in Darwin issues visas which are needed in advance as Timika does not have the type of immigration service which grants tourist visas upon arrival. Both AMA and MAF run unscheduled flights to the interior when there are enough passengers. With sufficient lead times, their planes can also be chartered: expensive, but efficient for small groups. By Sea Pelni. The Tatamai/au regularly calls at the government dock located south of Timika. Getting to the dock involves a trip of over an hour by road and up to two hours by river. Other ships taking passengers also call at this dock. Information about these ships can be obtained at the Pelni office near the central market. Freight schooners of the pinisi type and larger metal-hulled vessels bring cargo and passengers from western Indonesia to the Wania rivers, tying up to unload at the villages of Hiripau and Pomako, located an hour's drive south ofTimika. Getting Around A system of roads radiates out of Timika. Most of these roads link the currently existing 12 transmigration towns (more are planned) to the urban center with its large daily market, schools, shops, banks, and government offices. Within town, there are yellow collective minibuses charging Rp500/trip anywhere on their routes wh ich are determined by passenger requests. Within town, and further as well , a system of motorcycle-taxis, or ojek, takes passengers for Rpl,OOO in town, prices to be negotiated for out-of-town trips, e.g. for the Mapuru Jaya area, Rp20,000. 213 The central market is also the collective taxi station for most destinations on fixed routes. The color of the minibus determines its route, e.g. the brown minibuses go to Kua la Kencana for Rp2,000/passenger or Rp20,000 for charter. There is another bus station, located about 1.5 km. from the market, on the road heading south. This road, badly paved most ofthe way, runs south to the Wania River, the take-off point to the more isolated Kamoro villages. THIS is where the real adventures start: out to the jungle where there are no electricity, no radios, no health services (malaria is endemic! take precautions) and all communications are exclusively water-borne. And, of course, no hotels, restaurants or English speakers. No tourists either. If you venture this way, you qualify as a traveler. ACCOMMODATIONS The Amole Jaya, located in town , is clean and run by a pleasant lady from Manado. Meals can be ordered at $1.25; laundry is cheap. Most of the guests are West Papuans. The rooms have fans and attached toilets with ladle-type baths. $7, with light morning and afternoon snacks . Minibus-taxi for rent for $3.50/hour. The large Serayu Hotel is located very close to the central market. An attached restaurant serves meals. The military often use this hotel . $7-$100 suite. For a medium-priced hotel, we recommend the GSBJ, which caters to expat workers. Nice swimming pool , bar, TV with CNN. Large addition due to open in early 2000. Until it opens, the place can be full on weekends. $30. The four-star international class Sheraton Inn Timika (PO Box 3, Timika 98663, '5' 549- 5959, fax: 549-4950) has English-speaking staff and 84 rooms. Unique low-rise building nestled in tropical rainforest. No surat ja/an is required. $200 and up. DINING There are several good-to-excellent fish , seafood and mangrove crab eateries in town along with the Padang-style cooking. Meal prices in town range from $3- $10. I MEDICAL The government hospital in town has been supplemented with a modern, efficient hospital a few ki lometers away. Built with development funds from Freeport and run by Caritas, a Roman Catholic order with an excellent reputation in health care, it is open to everyone on a low-fee basis.

I 214 JUNGLE GOLF Run by the Sheraton Hotel, the 18-hole Rimba golf course is open to the public. It is located 20 km from the town of Timika, where the international airport and the Sheraton Hotel are found. The golf course is a part of Kuala Kencana, which Freeport has built for its employees. As Freeporters work during the week, the Rimba Irian Golf Klub is almost always deserted on weekdays. Green fees are $30 for 18 rounds on weekdays and $50 on weekends. Bookings can normally be made two months in advance, with longer lead time for groups. The golf club, bar and restaurant are under In Sheraton management. Both the Sheraton Hotel and the golf course restaurant offer international and Indonesian cuisine at reasonable prices. -4KAMORO The tribal lands of the Kamoro stretch from Etna Bay and east along the Arafura Sea some 300 kilometers, up to the territory of the Asmat. Long neglected due to their isolation, the Kamoro never received the fame and fortune of their neighbors, the Asmat. However, now the Freeport mining company has built an infrastructure which opens Kamoroland to visitors. Kamoro carvings can be as good as those of the Asmat and their ancient traditions, including spectac,ular initiation ritua ls, are still partially followed. Every year, the Kamoro gather for a huge festival, highl ighted by canoe races, a traditional dance competition and an auction of their best carvings . This festival takes place just after the Asmat auction which begins on the second Monday of October and lasts three days. The Kamoros' festival starts on the following Thursday and runs through Sunday. TRANSPORTATION Timika is the jump-off point to visit this group. While some Kamoro villages are reachable by road, the more interesting ones, as well as the Asmat region, requ ire travel by boat. The Arafura Sea can be quite rough, especially in the December-January period. The best times to travel by dugout canoe and outboard motor, the most common means for the locals to get around, are during April and October. Except for the far western stretch ofthe Kamoro area, from around Poronggo and towards Etna Bay, canoe travel to villages is possible on the interconnected river systems near the coast. This, however, is considerably slower than travel by sea and conPRACTICALITIES sumes much more precious, expensive fuel. Most villages on the coast and those a short ways inland, can only be reached by water. Wel l-heeled travelers could, with sufficient lead-time, charter a small plane from MAF or AMA to the few landing strips in the area: Kokonau in the Kamoro area and Ewer, near Agats, for the Asmat. MANGROVE ECO-SYSTEM The south coast of West Papua holds the world's largest and most diverse mangrove eco-systern. The town ofTimika, lying some 25 km. from the coast of the Arafura Sea, lies just outside this zone. The mangroves are easy to reachan all-weather road heads south from Timika, to the village of Pomako from where motorized dugout canoes (called" Johnson" for the former brand name of the outboard engines, which today are all Yamahas). The mangroves begin less than an hour down the Wania River. At first glance, it does not seem that mangrove swamp forest should rank among the world's most productive eco-systems. However, it is, along with the tropical rain forests and coral reefs and, unfortunately, it is as fragile as these two other super-producers. The muddy substrate, made up of minute alluvial particles lacks oxygen and stability. For most people, it just a muddy mess which stinks-this is the smel l of hydrogen sulfide indicating the completely anaerobic (lacking in oxygen) property of water-logged soil. When combined with the daily doses of concentrated salt water, no self-respecting plant would want to make its home in this environment. Yet the thick mass of trees and shrubs fills all spaces where the essential sunlight can perform its photosynthetic miracle. Plant species are restricted to a few dozen belonging to a number of very wide-spread and different families. All the different mangrove species had to evolve physical characteristics to adapt to the same milieua three fold system consisting of aerial roots to cope with low substrate oxygen and soil mobility; salt-extrusion strategies via specialized glands and vivipary, or seed germination prior to parental release. Adapting to these conditions was the only way for these species to survive. As a factory of biomass, mangroves are the green machine, the efficient converter of nature's limitless resources: the swamp produces raw material, lignocellulose, from sea water by using renewable energy source, mostly sunlight, along with tidal energy. The fal len leaves and rotting wood of the mangroves are recycled by many microscopic organisms such as bacteria and a few large animals like crabs. There is a wealth offood to be had in the mangrove swamps, a fact well known to many a fish and invertebrate species which use the area as a nursery and often

TIMIKA as a permanent home. Many commercial species, especially large shrimp and fish, such as snappers and breams, barramudi and mackerel grow up in the protected mangrove nurseries. Smaller, non-commercial species also spend their juvenile stages in the mangroves, to be later gobbled by larger fish when they migrate to the open ocean. The Kamoro take advantage of the variety of foodstuffs and other resources found in the mangroves. Almost every tree, leaf, sap or bush has a use in their culture, in house construction, medicine or the myriad of necessities, such as glue to fix the lizard skin top of a drum. The men fish with line and hook in the swamp's waterways and with nets in the river estuaries and just off the beach. The women set out on a daily round of gathering in the mangroves. They bring back bivalve mollusks of many kinds, gastropods, fish caught by laying down screendams across tidal creeks , delicious mangrove crabs. It is not unusual to see a man and his wife, sometimes with the kids, in an idyllic scene quietly fishing by the side of an open waterway in the swamp, each with a line in the water. Families also get together in the cutting and processing of sago trees which are found in strands just inland from the sago forest, at the edge of the tidal movements. A man and his wife can process enough sago in a day to last the family for a week. Every village has a govemment built health clinic, but almost none has a nurse or medicines. All vil lages have a primary school, but many of the teachers are absent much of the year, attending to administrative business. Most villagers have no way to market their surplus products or to purchase the necessities of life such as cooking oil, parangs or mosquito nets. In fact, from a health, educational and economic point of view, the Kamoro villages were far better off during the colonial era than under the current administration, in addition to the fact that since the economic crisis various programs have been cut back or stopped altogether. The Freeport Malaria Control teams provide the only regular health service to many Kamoro villages, all eight within its project area and once a month for six others within reasonable boating distance. ECO-TOURISM The potential for eco-tourism has long been present on the south coast of West Papua, but the lack of infrastructure prevented any serious development of this idea. Now, thanks to the facilities which have developed in conjunction with the mining activities in the area, the possibility of eco-tourism is definitely there. Following preliminary discussions between Conservation Intemational and Freeport, in September 1998, an initial survey trip was made 215 to determine the potential of the area for ecotourism. Dr. Vance de Fretes, the director of the West Papua office of Conservation I ntemational and Ary Suhandi, their eco-tourism expert, spent a week in Kekwa vil lage with me. We took several tours of the area by dugout canoe and held long meetings with the chief and men of the village to explain tourism in general and eco-tourism in particular. The response was overwhelmingly enthusiastic, perhaps too much so as we were not certain if the people really understood everything we were trying to communicate. Why would anyone be interested in coming to see the mangroves? Who would be interested in Kamoro culture? We did out best to answer these and many other questions, as well as trying to explain that outsiders were different in their requirements and needed to have fairly well fixed schedules, unlike the very loose Kamoro system of living only by the flow ofthe tides. How well they understood these strange concepts and to what extent will they make allowances for a different life-style? Only time will tell. Be that as it may, at our suggestion, they started building a spacious house, using only traditional materials, as proof oftheirwillingness to partiCipate in the program. KEKWA VILLAGE We picked Kekwa village for several reasons: it is not too close to the modern developments around Timika, yet not too far way as to make the boat ride there a brutal experience. It represented the best combination of age-old traditions and opening to the modern world. Kekwa vi llage won the dance competition at the first all-Kamoro festival and one of their carvings had fetched the highest price in the auction of sculptures. Despite all of these 'plusses ' , we picked Kekwa for its enthusiasm. Kekwa village combines most ofthe Kamoro's traditional life style while opening to the outside world; a difficult balancing act. While traditional medicine based on plants with an occasional dose of magic, is still used, the effects of western medicine are also most appreciated and sought. This village is one of the six which receives a monthly visit by the mining company's medical team . Unlike some other villages, Kekwa shows a high degree of enthusiasm and participation in community projects while it has adhered to the traditional style houses with gaba-gaba walls and thatch roofing instead of the more practical but awful looking tin roofs which turn homes into ovens under the hot sun or reverberate with an infernal crescendo during a heavy downpour. While many parents are apathetic about their children's schooling, Kekwa has produced more than its share of welleducated' Kamoro, including the bupati of the Mimika kabupaten, a school principal and a I

216 record of 23 primary school teachers. Protected by a wall of casuarina trees, the village sits on a wide sand strip facing the shore ofthe Arafura Sea. At the far side ofthe village, the mangrove forest begins, stretching inland well over ten kilometers. This is the Kamoro supermarket, where the ladies fetch food for their families every day, with the timing of the shopping expeditions determined by the tides. The menu? Fresh fish of many delicious varieties, grilled, baked or boi led with spices, complemented with rich-textured sago, pipin' hot off the grill. More exotic? Try the mangrove crabs, cooked to perfection and cracked for easy pickings. How about an Obelix-sized chunk of wild boar to go with that? Still more exotic? Try the long, slimy tambelo worms, related to boring ships' worms, pulled out of rotting wood. Not nearly as bad as it looks-it's really a bivalve mollusk, tasting like a sweet, delicious oyster. And the ultimate in exotic fare: fat, wiggly sago worms with hard, biting heads. Eating .... technique: hold it by the front end and bite off the head, flick head away and nonchalantly chew slowly, then swallow. If you chewed enough, the legs have stopped squirming to protest outrageous fate. Voila! Grub down your gu llet. Note: the sago grub is the larva of a beetle that burrows only in a special palm trunk. It only eats I PRACTICALITIES the pure-starch sago pith, thus efficiently converting carbohydrate to protein. Can you eat one? Try it. If you do, following the above technique, the village chief will reward you with a fine local ly carved wood figure, absolutely free of charge. If al l this is just a bit beyond your gastronomic level of competence, the grubs can be cooked, but no sculpture for eating these. The eco-tourism program set up at Kekwa starts in Timika and includes an outboard-powered canoe ride to the village. The trip takes in as much of the Kamoro daily activities as the participants' time allows, along with traditional dances and paddled canoe rides in the mangrove swamp. The facilities provided include a traditional house with kitchen and bath (ladle-kind) and toi let, as well as local food. The Kamoro fare is based on sago, made from the pith ofthe sago palm, and fish. Almost no store-bought items are eaten as the Kamoro lack cash to make these purchases. The program at the vi llage also includes a traditional reception and dances in local costumes and finery. The total experience adds up to much more than the sum of its parts. For those with an open mind, this trip can enrich one's experience, vision and understanding of a cultural group living in harmony with its unique environment. - Kat Muller

ASMAT Home of one of the most famous ethnic groups of West Papua, the Asmat region still does not receive as many visitors as other areas of the province. Infrastructure is limited and transportation in and out of the area is unpredictable. Agats, the capital, is the commercial and educational center of the region and the base for the influential Catholic mission. Visits to the villages spread out along the network of rivers by dugout canoe can be arranged in nearby Sjuru. Prices are in US $. TRANSPORTATION By Air The airport at Ewer has been unserviceable for a long time, so, at present, the most convenient access to Agats and the Asmat region is by plane to Senggo, then a 6 hour motorboat ride downriver. A more expensive option is to charter a plane from Jayapura to Senggo direct. Contact Pak Ronnie and Ibu Atta at Merpati. Both are very helpful. Be prepared for the motorboat ride. Depending on the tide, your luggage and you could get soaked with salt spray. By Sea Pelni. The Tatamailau calls at Agats once a month on the following run: BanyuwangiBima-Labuanbajo-Larantuka-Dili-SaumlakiTual-Dobo-Timika then returning by the same route and then to Denpasar-Badas-Makassar-Baubau-Ambon-Amahai-Fakfak-KaimanaTimika-Agats-Merauke then returns by approximately the same route. It's about a week between Denpasar and Agats. Check at the Pelni office in Denpasar/Benoa (JI. Pelabuhan Benoa, 'B' (0361) 723483, fax: 720962) for current schedules. Coasters. Two local mixed freighters out of Merauke call at various places along the coast and rivers on the following routes : 1) Merauke-Kimam-Bade-Agats-SawaErma and back the same way. 2) Merauke-Kiam-Bayun-Atsj-AsgonSenggoand back. Each of these ships makes the run, on the average, once a month. Two other ships, making coastal stops between Merauke and Sorong, also call at Agats every few weeks. While conditions are excellent on the Tatamai/au, on these ships they are what most people would call deplorable. SURAT JALAN Like most parts of West Papua, you have to show your surat ja/an and passport to the police here. By itself, this is fine, except the police here have the irritating habit of accompanying you on your boat if you leave Agats. They will insist that this is strictly for your own safety, wh ich, of course, is nonsense. Southern West Papua is probably the least desirable station in all of Indonesia, so the military and police here are either very young, very poorly connected, or incompetent. Sometimes all three. And they seem to have an overwhelming fear of the Asmat. When a 20-year-old Javanese kid with a string around his head, sitting in his office surrounded by Rambo posters and holding a submachine gun tells you he is going to accompany you on your trip to visit the Asmat, you can be forgiven for your rising anger. But keep it in check, as it will only make things worse. Ybu cannot avoid the escort. These trips are really the only way for the police to get out of Agats; it is a little junket for them. Best to try to work out a modus operandi, I as diplomatically as possible. If you set one of _- ", these bundles of machismo off, you really are going to ruin your trip. Firstly, do not pay for his "services." You may be asked for some money for this man. Tell the guide you have hired that the police officer can eat from your provisions, but he gets no money. It really hEllps to speak Indonesian in these circumstances. When you get to a village, the police officer will sometimes try to "take charge," jumping off the boat with his gun handy and barking orders at the people who, out of curiosity, have come up to meet you. Do not let him do

I Agats /1> Because of the daily tides, the "streets" of Agats are raised boardwalks, of variable quality. (Always bring a flashlight at night.) For the sake of clarity, the many private houses lining the walkways are not shown. 218 this. It is your trip, you have paid for the boat, and you do not want him bullying people and spoiling it. Be very firm about this. The police escort is just a fact, and not worth ruining your trip over. There may even be some circumstances where it comes in handy. Local officials in some vi llages have been running little woodcarVing rackets, and the presence of tourists threatens to push up prices or reveal to the carvers just how much they are being exploited. These folks will often say things like "tourists aren't allowed here." The presence of your own private police officer will shut this kind of thing right down. ACCOMMODATIONS Losmen Asmat Inn. Eleven rooms. Fairly clean, but the rooms are seldom made up and no towels are provided. Bathrooms are attached. Lots of junky Asmat "art" for sale. Price includes breakfast, and meals can be ordered. $12 for the better rooms; $8.50 for the more basic rooms. Pada' Elo. Eight rooms. Pool table, excellent breakfast (including noodles, vegetables, egg, tea or coffee), but pretty crude out-of-room toilet/bath facilities. $8.50. DINING Buetkawer. Next to the dock. Simple meals, rice or noodles, vegetables, and if available, fish. Can get beer cold for you at night with sufficient notice at $1.60 per can. (They need an hourto get PRACTICALITIES DO DOD D D Dock for shark's fin boals ( Rumah Makan Buet Kwar the beer chilled at a nearby fish cooler.) Dahlia. Just off the main walkway opposite the helipad. Good chicken soup $1.10. Fried chicken (about half of a tough bird), vegetables and rice $4. Fried manioc and fried bananas sometimes available. Note: Neither restaurant has a sign outside, so follow the map and ask. CARVINGS AND SOUVENIRS Toko Anda. Near the old disused dock. Run by Pak Mansur, who bargains, wheels and deals, but still keeps his prices low. A very mixed bag of carvings, some quite nice, especially his shields. Ask to also see the items in the back of his house. Kios Asmat. Next to the Pelni office. A much more orderly place, with a large room full of average quality commercial art. The Asmat Inn. The lobby here has lots of art, ranging in quality from truly awful to barely acceptable. Buying carvings in the villages You will probably see some carving being done at most villages you visit. Forget about finding fine old Asmat pieces-too many dealers have been through, offering top dollar. Stick to souvenir class carvings, and remember you have to lug things home, so length and weight matter. Small sculptures are cheap, $3-$20 for most

ASMAT items, and there is usually no reason to bargain. By buying in the village, you cut out the middlemen and more money goes into the carver's own pockets. Certain regions produce distinct items and styles. The Sawa-Erma area specializes in stylized, scaled-down shields with geometric patterns, in hardwood . Astj produces ajour, flat openwork carvings in hardwood, and small and medium-sized figures in hardwood. Per and Beriten make fairly well-finished figure sculptures in softwood . Some fairly decent full-scale shields are still being made in the Brazza area, but obtaining these at the source requires an extensive trip. Boatloads occasionally arrive in Agats, and you might be fortunate enough to be there when this takes place. With no middleman involved, you can pick one of these up for $20 . Some of the more interesting small items sold in the villages are cassowary bone knives, small feathered bags, woven armbands, and necklaces of seeds. The only thing to be cautious of with these is that customs officials in the United States and Europe tend to be very suspicious of animal products in general and it might not be legal to bring them in. Especially if the item prominently displays feathers , you may have problems. Find out the relevant customs restrictions before you buy. MONEY EXCHANGE There is no bank in Agats. Change plenty of money into Rupiah before you come. It is also handy to have smaller denomination bills in the villages, when buying craft items. RIVER TRAVEL Motorized dugouts. This is the key to travel in the region. If you have relatively little time and want to get around, the only way to do this is hire a long dugout powered by a 40HP outboard. This is expensive-about $125-$150 a day, but since at least 10 people can fit in it, if your group is large it is not too much on a per person basis. The high dai ly costs are justified by the freight costs to Agats wh ich brings the cost of a 40HP outboard in at around $3,000 (the boat itself costs some $1,200), and actual cost of fuel runs $14 per hour. Add to that the wage of the boat driver, maintenance ofthe engine and boat, and the price seems far from outrageous. Worse still, sometimes there is no fuel available so you can't motor anywhere. There are two or three boats available for charter out of Agats, all costing about the same amount. We were quite satisfied with the services of Amhier Oedhien, who often meets incoming planes at Ewer and can be contacted through the Asmat Inn. He took good care of us, 219 and cooked up our meals at no extra charge. You can also try at the Pada 'Elo, whose owner, Pak Nurdin, seemed quite willing to bargain. Some travel times from Agats: Beriten, 1.5 hrs, Jamas-Jeni, 2 hrs; Ayam, 2.5 hrs; SawaErma, 3 hrs; Atsj, 3.5 hrs; Omadesep, 5 hrs; Otsjanep, 6 hrs. A motorized boat is the only realistic way to go to the Brazza River area from Agats. Count on a week or so. One day to Jinak, second day to Senggo, third day to Tami. From here, you walk. Outside of the main towns, the people living in this area are shy of outSiders, and you may spend your whole trip without meeting anyone. Pick up an interpreter in Jinak or Senggo. From the end of November to some time in March, the season ofthe waves (musim ombak), sea-going canoe trips can be very dangerous. Sometimes you can reroute inland, but this can add time, depending on where it is that you plan to go. Paddled canoes. An alternative to motorized travel is to hire a smaller boat and five or so paddlers at Sjuru village, a short gangplank walk from Agats . This is much cheaper: $3 a day per paddler, $3 for the boat, which can fit 2 to 4 passengers. It is also more pleasant, with the sounds of the jungle broken only by the songs of the paddlers. But you cannot travel as far as quickly this way-it takes a full day to cover the distance. spanned by outboard canoe in a couple of hours. To Ayam, it's a day, same for the JamasjJeni area. About two days to Atsj or to SawoErma. Depending on seas and tides, it could be four days to Otsjanep. For a good boatman who can get a team of paddlers together, try to locate Demianus in Sjuruh village. On overnight trips, he will cook for you as well. Tides. Whether by motor or paddle power you have to go with the tides. Many villages are accessible only at high tide. At low tide, you have to make your way up deep mud banks to reach the villages on the larger rivers, although felled logs are often strategically placed to save muddy feet. Tides of over 5 meters are usual in June and late December, and even the normal twice daily tides often exceed 4 meters. You have to go far upriver before the tide no longer affects the river height. Provisions. On any joumey, you can obtain sago to eat in the vil lages, but we suggest buying all your provisions in Agats before setting out. Bottled water is very expensive in Agats (Rp1000 for a small bottle, the only size avai lable) and you can either drop a lot of money for a case of the stuff, or buy fresh coconuts (very inexpensive) along the way. We did the latter, and were neverthirsty. Take some Minyak Gosok cap Tawon , a locally sold insect repellant of citronella and eucalyptus extracts. Aside from its bug-repellant properties, the oily liquid (55¢ for

I 220 PRACTICALITIES a small bottle, 80¢ for a larger one) serves as a perfume, and at least according to the label, An Asmat vocabulary treats fungus, intestinal problems, hemorrhoids, bums, and even knife wounds. Some essential items are simply unavailable in Agats. Buy all the film you will need before you arrive in Agats, as well as suntan lotion and insect repellant. Batteries and any other items of a similar nature should also be bought beforehand. WEATHER It rains a lot, for a total of some five meters a year. Sources conflict as to which is the driest season- some say May- June, others January-March, still others say August-so be prepared for rain no matter when you come. Also be prepared for occasional weeks without rain, which puts great stress on the water supplies in Agats. This means no laundry, and a steadily shrinking mandi bath reservoir. Travel in canoes is impossible along the -"'coast during the season of the waves, which could start as early as October and continue as late as March. Late December, January and February bring the worst waves, and forget about visiting any of the coastal villages at this time. Temperatures year-round range from 21°C to 31°C. TOURIST EVENTS Many villages will put on "traditional" events for tourists, such as racing by in canoes, and drumming, singing and dancing. These performances cost $30-$200 depending the number of participants and the length of the event. These are not too difficult to organize. Some tour groups even go through adoption "rituals." -by Ka/ Muller Hello Goodbye Yes No What is your name? My name is ... Where are you from? I am from ... Which way to ... ? I am going to ... To Ewer To Agats How much? Men's house Ancestor pole Soulship War shield Figure carving Drum Bowl Bamboo pipe Men's bag Ancestor skull Trophy skull Bone dagger Canoe Prowhead Paddle Spear Stone club Stone axe Shell nosepiece Sago Sago grubs Sago pounder Cassowary Cassowary bone Crocodile Snake Lizard Turtle Frog Cuscus Hornbill bird Dormum Dormum Awangbis Opak Or uncum jeusam? Dorjous ... Ocayo yipicam? Dorsuru pisipit. .. Dorsuru bayofa ... ? Dorsuru bandi. .. Do Ewer Do Agasta Ucumaram? Jeu Bisj Wuramon Jamasj Kawe Em Jifai bus Ese Ndambirkus Ndaokus Pisuwe Tsji ("tchee") Tsji tsjemen Po Otsjen Onok pak si Si Bipane Ambas Tou Amosus Pi Pi emak Eu Amer Utsj Mbu Woro Fatsj Fofojir

Merauke is the entry point to southern West Papua and is the easternmost town in Indonesia. Founded by the Dutch in 1904 as a response to British concerns about the regular head-hunting raids across the then Dutch and British border, remnants of early settlement can still be seen in colonial buildings like the 1920s post office and the charming old church at Buti. There is a busy local market, traditional wooden houses and shelters by the coast, and a long, windswept beach for walking and birdwatching. It is also the access point to Wasur National Park. Prices are in US$. Telephone code is 0971. AC=Air-conditioning. TOURIST INFORMATION The government tourist office in Merauke will pass you on to either: Sigabella Tours, YAPSEL, JI. Missi. '5" 21489, fax: 21610. This company is an offshoot of a long-established non-government community development organization. It works with local Marind and Kanum tribespeople on small-scale community-based tourism, and has touring programs to the Bian River region north of Merauke and to Wasur National Park. It is establishing a network of NGOs offering appropriate tourism in Wamena and Biak also. Biro WWF, JI. Brawijaya. '5" 22407. WWF has an information and guide service for visitors to Wasur National Park. TRANSPORTATION By Air Mopah airport is 4 km from town. A charter taxi costs about $3. This is an hourly non-negotiable rate, so you can ask to be driven around town for orientation before being dropped off at your hotel. Merpati. Merpati flies from Jayapura to Merauke , a one-hour trip, on Tues, Wed, Fri, and Sun, departing at 8 am. The return flight from Merauke to Jayapura leaves at 10 am . At present, the only access to Agats and Asmat country is by plane to Senggo, then a 6 hour motorboat ride downriver. A more expensive option is to charter a plane from Jayapura to Senggo direct. Pak Ronnie and Ibu Atta at Merpati are both very helpful here. By Sea Pelni. The freight and passenger vessel Tatamailau calls at Merauke once a month on its route from Banyuwangi (Java) to the south coast of West Papua. It takes about one week to reach Merauke from Banyuwangi and makes several stops on the way, including Timika, Kaimana, and Fakfak, before moving on to Amahai and Ambon in Maluku. Getting Around The local equivalent of minibuses are called "taxis ." There is a flat fare of Rp350, anywhere in town. If you don't have exact change, and give Rp400, don't expect any change. Hourly charter rate is Rp7,000 ($3). Negotiate for longer trips or for several charters with the same driver. SURAT JALAN A policeman will take details for your suratjalan as you arrive at the airport, but you must also report to the main police station on JI. Raya Mandala. Take photocopies of your passport and suratjalan. ACCOMMODATIONS There are several hotels and losmens in Merauke, of which three are popular with visitors. Hotel Asmat JI. Trikora 3. '5" 21065. $8-$11 fan , shared bath; $9- $13 fan , private bath; $10-$14 AC, private bath. Megaria Hotel JI. Raya Mandala 166. '5" 21932. $30, AC, Western bathroom, hot water; $20, no I hot water. Breakfast is included, other meals .'. can be ordered; reception stocks cold beer. Nirmala Hotel JI. Raya Mandala 66. '5" 21849. Has an enormous restaurant serving good food,

I 222 but no atmosphere. $10, fan, shared bath; $15 AC, no hot water; $27, AC, TV, hot water, including breakfast and afternoon snack. DINING Most of the restaurants are Javanese or Chineserun. You won't generally find the West Papuan staples of sago and sweet potatoes on the menu. Venison is a specialty of southern West Papua, from rusa deer on the grasslands to the north, and you'll find tasty, but dry, spicy chunks of venison at most Padang restaurants. Sweet dried deer meat (dendeng manis) from the market is delicious fried as a snack. Sari Laut, opposite and slightly left of the Megaria Hotel, is the best food value in town. Pick-your-own BBQ fish, with rice, a bowl of coconutty vegetables, and a side-dish of cucumber tomato and pickle for just over $1. Toko Rosario, next to the Nirmala, does good Chinese noodle dishes at lunchtime. Merapi .)aya, across the road form the Nirmala Hotel, does good Padang food at lunchtime. Cafe Mandala, next door, has excellent Chinese food. One dining room is AC. There are plenty of warungs and night foodstalls lining the road opposite the cinema. MONEY Bank Mandiri, at the river end of JI. Raya Mandala, changes US$ travelers' checks. SHOPPING Most things are available in Merauke, but are expensive compared with other areas of Indonesia, given freight and transport costs . There are several Chinese-run shops selling almost everything, of which the best are Toko Saudara and Toko Metro, both on the main street, JI. Raya Mandala. -updated by Virginia Jealous Wasur National Park Wasur National Park covers about 4,000 square kms to the east of Merauke. The Wango River is its northern boundary, the Arafura Sea its southern edge and it extends from the Ndalir River near Merauke in the west to the Papua New Guinea border on the east. It includes the Rawa Biru (Blue Swamp) Strict Nature Reserve. The landscape is unique in Indonesia-an expansive alluvial plain of wild rivers leading to PRACTICALITIES tidal flats, wide floodplain, dense rainforest, open woodland, and savannah grassland. This provides a range of habitats for plants (like gum trees) and animals (like agile wallabies and kookaburras) which share characteristics with those of northern Australia. But much of the wildlife is only found on the New Guinea landmass. The variety of birding is exceptional. The Bian River Region. Further north, 200 km along the Trans-West Papuan Highway and beyond the township of Muting, the Bian River provides the major link to the outside world for remote villages. It is surrounded by lakes and floodplains which become refuges for wildlife, particularly birds, in the later part ofthe dry season. Herds of deer and mobs of wallabies are often seen around dawn and dusk. Pockets of forest protected by local people are home to birds of paradise and enormous camps of flying foxes. Culture. The Wasur National Park is home to four distinct tribal groups: the Marind, the Marori, the Kanum, and the Yei. All four are traditionally hunter-gatherers, who hunt with bows and arrows and dogs. They are also subsistence farmers of sago and sweet potatoes. Little carving is done in this area, but the grasses of the swamplands provide material for woven bags, baskets, fishnets, and mats. Bows and arrows often have identifying tribal motifs cut into them . Drums of wood and deer skin are used in ceremonies , as are elaborate grass skirts and headdresses. Western visitors are still a rarity here in the villages, and are made unfailinglywelcome. Local languages are still spoken, but everyone also speaks Indonesian. Management. The WWF is working with the Indonesian Department of Forestry and the Director General of Forest Protection and Nature Conservation to develop a workable management plan for the Park which will allow native tribes to continue their traditional practices while protecting unique Wasur habitats. Fees & Permits. You can enter the Park through the villages of Wasur or Ndalir where there are National Park Offices. Report in and pay the Rp1,000/person entrance fee and an additonal Rp1,000 for a 4-wheel drive vehicle. To date, there is no fee for camping, but "developed" campsites with toilet facilities for which a Rp5,000/night fee will be charged are in the planning stages. Accommodations. Visitors are welcome to bring their own camping gear and there are basic accommodations at a guest house at Yanggandur village. Bring your own sleeping bag, blankets, mosquito nets, and food. Another guest house is on the beach near the vilage of Onggaya and there is one more in the planning stages on the Maro River, near Soa and Tambak. The construction of these guest houses was funded by WWF, but are owned and managed by the people of those villages , who collect all the profits. Access within the Park. From the western

MERAUKE boundary of the Park, the Trans-West Papuan Highway stretches eastward to the village of Soto, then continues to the Park's northern border and is the only all-weather road in the Park. However, in the dry season (July-December), a Jeep can traverse village roads from Merauke to Kondo along the Park's south-western boundary, as well as from the Trans-West Papuan Highway to Rawa Biru and Yanggandurvillages. Also, in the dry season, there are othertracks which a Jeep can negotiate, but be forewarned - these dirt roads are kidney-busters! In the rainy season (January-June), Ndalir and Wasur villages are easy to visit, as the roads leading to them are good and you can engage native canoes to get to most other areas of the Park. The WWF reports "unparalleled wildl ife viewing and fishing" in Wasur at this time. What to See. With less than 60 visitors to the Park recorded in 1992, you can rest assured that you will not be surounded by tourists, allowing you ample opportunity to experience an environment that is total ly unlike anything you will see elsewhere in Indonesia. The landscape in the park and its habitats are unique in West Papua, resembling that of northern Australia, a flat expanse of wetland and coastal plain containing bamboo and monsoon forests, grasslands, swamps and open savannah in the Park's interior, while riverine vegetation and mangroves protect coastlines. The wetlands of Wasur are an important habitat for migratory birds from Austalia and New Zealand: storks, sea eagles, ibis, spoonbills, ducks, geese, pelicans, herons, egrets, and other water birds. The monsoon forests host birds of paradise, riflebirds, cockatoos , Eclectus parrots, crowned pigeons, and the iII-tempered cassowary, while the swampy lowlands and plains are home to lapwings and bustards. The native mammals of Wasur are marsupials, the most abundant being the agile wallaby (Macropus agilis), but also common are forest wallabies (Doropsis veterum and Thylogale stigmatica). The ratlike bandicoot and the treedwelling cuscus , both marsupials, the shortbeaked echidna, a monotreme (egg-laying mammal), are also residents ofWasur. The wallabies and deer are easy to spot during the day in certain areas ofthe park. Most ofthe marsupials, however, are nocturnal. Take along a good flashlight for any nighttime expeditions. In the reptile department, of interest are endemic Salvador's monitor lizards, pythons, and two species of crocodilians. Freshwater New Guinea crocodiles (Crocodylus novaeguineae) are still present, but are endangered due to hunting, and the estuarine crocodile (Crocodylus prorsus), a saltwater variety, may have already disappeared. Wasur is a photographer's dream come true. At Ukra, there is a WWF observation tower that will give you a grand overview of bamboo forests 223 abutting savannah. In the dry season , take a walk across the savannah to see all sorts of wildlife drinking from a solitary pool of water. And, for a closer look at nature, you can rent horses and a guide in some vilages, thanks to another WWF project designed to improve the economic conditions ofthe native peoples. Trails are not yet clearly marked. The track to Tomer is fairly obvious, but if you want to go further, hire a local guide, who will be useful not only in making sure you don't get lost, but also in spotting wildlife and explaining local customs. Hire a canoe at Yerus, near the Rawa Biru, to see the lake flora and fauna, and the Kanum people tending their traditional gardens around its perimeter, or stop and chat with the hunters you encounter along the way. Swimming is good in old sand quarry pits near the Trans-West Papuan Highway. These pits seldom dry out. - by Linda Hoffman/Virginia Jealous .... I ' JAGEBOB XXVc/ J .. p. oo I (IRIAN SAKTI) ..... ~ ~ ~ .,,,-.... ~<7r. ,r'i' 1 0 I JAGEBOB XXIVc/ ....... *' , (MIMI) ' ..... {,I c • KUMBE·KURIK.8 i ~i ',. Onggaya 1 A "\, Tomer ,. . Yanggandur Rawa Biru. SCALE Of ...... r" ! omerau 10 20 30 ', Wasur National ,Park , , .Kondo ' .. , r , =; 1 I' :1 .11 ~ l os I'", I z l ID ~ I~ ~

224 PRACTICALITIES Further Reading Allen, Benedict. Into the Crocodile Nest: A Journey Inside New Guinea. London: Grafton Books, Paladin, 1989. This modern day adventurer flies into the Irian highlands, treks through Yali and Kim Yal country, and heads to the land of the unacculturated Obini. He gets cold feet and bugs out, and with not enough information left to finish his book. A fairly thin account. Archbold, Richard. "Results of the Archbold Expedition," Bulletin of the American Museum of Natural History. Vol. 88, Article 3. Description of Archbold's expedition to the highlands around Lake Habbema. ..... Asmat Sketch Books. Book 1-2, Book 3-4, Book 5A, Book 5B, Book 6, Book 7, and Book 8. Hastings, Nebraska: The Asmat Museum of Culture and Progress, copyrights 1977-1984. These paperback volumes, assembled by the Crosier mission in Agats, contain descriptions of Asmat cultural life, vocabularies, outlines of historical events in the region, Asmat mythologies, descriptions of everyday events like sago gathering, and much more. Written by the missionaries, visiting ethnographers and others doing research in the Asmat lands. These are extremely vpluable primary sources for anyone interested in the region. They are not ful l of selfinterested religious propaganda, but rather are straightforward, honest and unflinching. Available by mail from: Crosier Province, Inc., 3204 East 43d Street, Minneapolis, MN 55406. Tel: (612) 722-2223. Each volume costs $15; 40% discount on orders of five or more. Baal, J. van. West Irian: a Bibliography. Dordrecht, Netherlands, 1984. Bellwood, Peter. Pre-History of the IndoMalaysian Archipelago. New York, 1985. Bromley, Myron. "Ethnic Groups in Irian Jaya." Bulletin for Irian Jaya Development. 2-3:1-37, 1973. Brongersma, L. D. The Animal World of Netherlands New Guinea. Gronengen: J.B. Wolters, 1958. 70 pp. Budiardjo, Carmel and Liem Soei Liong. West Papua: The Obliteration of a People. Surrey, U.K.: TAPOL, 1988. A very critical look at the transfer of Irian to Indonesia and the reaction it spawned. D'Albertis, Luigi M. New Guinea: What I Did and What I Saw. 2 volumes. London: Sampson Low, 1880. Worth trying to find, as naturalist D'AIbertis was a colorful figure and a keen observer. Flannery, Timothy. The Mammals of New Guinea. Queensland, Australia: Robert Brown and Associates, 1990. An excellent, contemporary account of New Guinea's unique mammalian fauna. Color photographs of each species, with complete information on range, habits, etc. Gardner, Robert and Karl G. Heider. Gardens of War: Life and Death in the New Guinea Stone Age. Introduction by Margaret Mead. New York: Random House, 1968. An excel lent book of photographs taken during the Harvard-Peabody expedition of 1961 to the Kure lu Dani, in the eastern part ofthe Baliem Valley. (Out of print.) Garnaut, Ross and Chris Manning. Irian Jaya: The Transformation of a Melanesian Economy. Canberra: Austral ian National Univ. Press, 1974. Gerbrands, Adrian A. The Asmat of New Guinea. The Joumal of Michael Clark Rockefeller. The Museum of Primitive Art: New York, 1967. Based on the late Michael Rockefel ler's notebooks and photographs. Particularly valuable because it shows some of the excel lent art pieces collected in their original sites. (Out of print.) Heider, Karl. The Dugum Dani. New York, 1970. The most complete ethnography of the Dani, by the anthropologist who accompanied the Harvard-Peabody expedition. ---. Grand Valley Dani, Peaceful Warriors. New York, 1979. Henderson, William. West New Guinea: the Dispute and its Settlement. Seton Hall University Press, 1987. Hvalkof, Soren and Aaby, Peter (eds). Is God an American? Survival International (36 Craven St, London WC 2N/5NG), London. n.d. Kamma, F. C. Koreri. The Hague, 1972. On the Koreri movement, a "cargo cult" in Biak. Koch, K. F. War and Peace in Jalemo. Cambridge, 1974. A Yali ethnography. Lawrence, Peter. Road Belong Cargo. Melbourne: University of Melbourne Press, 1964. "Cargo cults" in Melanesia. Matthiessen, Peter. Under the Mountain Wall: A Chronicle of Two Seasons in Stone Age New Guinea. New York: Penguin Books, 1987. (First published 1962). Matthiessen is among the very finest writers- both fiction and non-fictionworking today in the English language. This book is the story of the Kurelu Dani told by a novelist. It is richly descriptive, but has none of the invasive and crushing language ofthe ethnographer. This is in fact not a book about the Dani; it is a book about Kurelu, U-mue, Ekapuwe, Wereklowe, and many others, including, most importantly, Tukum the swineherd.

FURTHER READING 225 Mealey, George A. Grasberg: Mining the Richest and Most Remote Deposit of Copper and Gold in the World in the Mountains of Irian Jaya, Indonesia. Singapore:Freeport-McMoRan Copper & Gold Inc., 1996. Discusses the business of mining, as well as the environmental and social impact of the company's presence. Mitton, Robert. The Lost World of Irian Jaya. Melbourne: Oxford University Press, 1983. Mitton was an exploration geologist and cartographer who worked in Irian, particularly the highlands, for six years in the early and mid-'70s. He had a great knowledge of Irian, and an even greater love for the Irianese and their land. This is a book of photos and observations assembled posthumously from his notebooks. This is an excellent book, and required reading for anyone who is going to spend time in the highlands. (Out of print.) Mordaunt, Elinor. The Further Venture Book. London: John Lane the Bodley Head Limited, 1926. On a trip that criss-crossed the Dutch Indies, Ms. Mordaunt stopped at Waigeo, Sorong, Manokwari, Biak, Sarmi, Humbolt Bay (now Jayapura) and the tiny Mapia Islands. It is a standard traveler's tale of the time-that is, it says more about its British author than the people of New Guinea-and is competently written. Petocz, Ronald G. Conservation and Development in Irian Jaya. Leiden: E.J. Brill,1989. This is a very valuable resource book developed for people in the field of conservation. It includes brief descriptions of the ecological zones and animal life of Irian, and an elaborate description ofthe World Wildlife Fund-prompted program of nature reserves in Irian. Some ofthe appendices alone are worth the price: a complete list, with runway length and coordinates, of all airstrips in the province; checklists of birds and other protected and rare species. Pospisil, Leopold. The Kapauku Papuans. New York, 1978. Although some consider his "primitive capitalists" assessement overdrawn, this is the standard ethnography on the Ekagi (then called "Kapauku"). Richardson, Don. Lords of the Earth. Ventura, Califomia, 1977. Protestant missionaries among the Yali. Epic, Good vs. Evil language and heavily religious in tone. ---. Peace Child. Glendale, California, 1974. Similar in style to Lords of the Earth, this time set among the Asmat. Schneebaum, Tobias. Asmat Images, From the Collection of the Asmat Museum of Culture and Progress. Asmat Museum of Culture and Progress, 1985. This black-and-white book, illustrated with line drawings by the author, is both a catalog ofthe Asmat Museum's collection and a very good, compact introduction to Asmat art and culture. Schneebaum has spent considerable time in the region and is perhaps the most knowlegeable contemporary writer on the Asmat, particularly Asmat art. In English and Indonesian. Available from the Asmat museum (in Agats) or: Crosier Province, Inc., 3204 East 43d Street, Minneapolis, MN 55406. Tel: (612) 722-2223. ---. Where the Spirits Dwell, An Odyssey in the New Guinea Jungle. New York: Grove Press, 1988. A well-written and rather personal account of the author's experiences in the Asmat region. In addition to cultural and historical information, this book describes the author's personal quest for self-knowlege. The Sky Above, the Mud Below. A film directed by Tony Saulnier. An early 1960s documentary account of an expedition across Irian, from near Pirimapun in the south to Hollandia. Mud, flies, washed out bridges and all. Some good footage of Asmat and Kim Yal . Now fairly widely available in the U.S. on video. Smidt, Dirk A.M. (ed) Asmat Art: Woodcarvings of Southwest New Guinea. Singapore: Peri plus Editions. 1993. Handsome catalog of the collection of early shields and sculptures at the Rijksmuseum voor Volkenkunde and the National Museum of Ethnology in Leiden . Excellent articles on the spiritual world of the Asmat, a history ofthe region, styles of carving, the woodworkers, and the jipae festival. Souter, Gavin . New Guinea, the Last Unknown. New York: Taplinger, 1966. An excellent history of exploration and European involvement in New Guinea. Thoroughly researched and elegantly written. (Out of print.) Start, Daniel. The Open Cage. London: Harcourt Brace, 1997. Riveting account of five months in "open captivity" of British, Indonesian and Dutch biologists who were held hostage by the OPM in January through May, 1996. Velde, Van de Peter, ed. Prehistoric Indonesia. Dordrecht, Netherlands, 1984. Wallace, Alfred Russel. The Malay Archipelago. Singapore: Graham Brash (Pte) Ltd, 1989. This is the famous account by the father of biogeography, proto-evolutionist, animal collector, and adventurer Wallace. This book covers the 8 years he spent in the East Indies in the mid19th century. He spent only a few months in New Guinea, but this book is a must for anyone interested in the natural history of the region. Wilson, Forbes. The Conquest of Copper Mountain. New York, 1981. About the Freeport copper mine. Worsley, Peter. The Trumpet Shall Sound: A Study of "Cargo" Cults in Melanesia. 2d edition. New York: Schocken Books, 1968. One ofthe basic texts on "cargo cults," movements that sprang up in Melanesia as a reaction to the sudden presence of westerners, their goods and technologies. Zegwaard, Father Gerardus Anthonius. "Headhunting Practices of the Asmat of the Netherlands New Guinea." American Anthropologist, Vol. 61, No.6, Dec. 1959, pp. 1020-1041. The original description of Asmat head-hunting practices, by the pioneer missionary in the region . His observations still remain the standard text.

226 PRACTICALITI ES Glossary adat tradition; customs alus refined, smooth; polar opposite of kasar AMA (Associated Mission Aviation) Roman Catholic support airline amos (Asmat) sago palm apotik pharmacy bahasa language bahasa Indonesia Indonesian language; national language of Indonesia batik process of "lost-wax" dye technique for printing cloth; done primarily in Java bemo mini-bus; public transport, some can be chartered for private use .... beras hulled, uncooked rice Big Men (Ekari) non-hereditary chiefs, power based on balance of wealth accumulation and generosity bisj (Asmat) totem poles carved by Asmat, lattice of small clambering figures Bisjmam (Asmat) villages of central Asmat coast where bisj are carved bulan month CAMA Christian and Missionary Alliance camat hea~ government official of the district desa village desa adat "traditional village"; lowest administrative level of the state diskon discount em (Asmat) drum , hourglass-shape, drumhead of lizard skin fan nanggi (Biak) lit. "feeding the sky"; ritual performed with offerings which ancestral spirits carried up to heaven gaba-gaba central spine of the sago palm leaf ganekhe (Dani) sacred objects used to prevent approach of spirits harga pas fixed price hepere (Dan i) sweet potato; 90% of the Dani diet; more than 70 varieties honai (Dani) traditional house built of straw and wood hongi (Biak) annual tribute-gathering expedition from Sultan of Tidore to the north coast of Irian; more often pillage, rape, abduction horim (Dani) penis gourd ikat woven cloth from Flores, Timor; used in bride price in the Anggi lake area Irian (Biak) lit. "land of the hot weather", originally referred to the northwest coast of New Guinea nearest to Biak jam karet "rubber time " jamasj (Asmat) war shields, some 2 m long jeu (Asmat) long raised men's huts; cultural center of the village; pron. "ja-yu" jipae (Asmat) shaggy cloaks of rattan; used in initiation rites and to drive spirits away from the village kabupaten regency, headed by the bupati; second level administrative unit under the province kain (Dani) Big Men; charismatic individuals who rose to power through strength and success in war, wealth accumulated, generosity kain timur antique cloths from eastern Indonesia used in complex ritual trade in Bird's Head interior kampung neighborhood kasar rough, uncouth; polar opposite to a/us kebaya women's long-sleeved blouse; often made of brocade or light voile kecamatan district, headed by the camat kelapa muda young coconut kepala desa village head keris daggers, some considered magical ly powerful; may have either straight or wavy blade; part of formal male attire; worn in the back, handle tipped to the right ketan glutinous ("sticky") rice korwar (Biak) ancestral sculptures koteka (Ekari) penis gourd KSDA (Kehutanan Sumber Daya Alam) Natural Resources office of the Department of Forestry lela antique bronze cannon, usually of Portuguese origin; used in bride price in Fakfak area MAF (Missionary Aviation Fellowship) Protestant support airline mansaren noble caste on Biak massoi variety oftree bark; used for medicinal purposes; highly prized trade item matutuo figures which were part-human and part-animal, common in rock paintings; represent ancestors nanggi (Biak) central power of the universe nasi cooked rice

GLOSSARY nasi campur rice with varied condiments nasi goreng fried rice NGO non-government organization; promotes community self-rel iance activities noken (Dani) net-like string bags women use to carry things, supported by the forehead; knit from bark fibers orang pupawah (Malay) "frizzy-haired man" OPM (Organisasi Papua Merdeka) "Free Papua Movement" papisj (Asmat) ritual orgy of sexual activity or occasional temporary wife exchange; conducted during time of great crisis parang machete pariwisata tourism pasar daily market for food , clotiling, flowers, utenSils, etc.; bargaining is the way of life pasar malam night market pondok shelter used by hunters and pandanus gatherers in the highlands; vary from bark/wood lean-to's to comfortable huts prahu large boats, may be motorized puskesmas (pusat kesehatan masyarakat) community health center raja king, ruler; leadership system in the Raja Empat Islands, Sorong, Fakfak, and Kaimana rijstaffel "rice table," full meal of rice with various side dishes rujak raw fruits mixed with sauce of shrimp paste, chillies and sometimes palm sugar rumah sa kit hospital sago gummy starch from the pith of a tall palm tree (Metroxylon rumphil) sambal hot chilli sauce sawah irrigated rice field suratjalanjsurat keteranganjalan (SKJ) travel permit; needed to travel to all places within Irian, except Jayapura, Biak, and Sorong TEAM The Evangelical Alliance Mission tjemen (Asmat) phallus; represents life, power and regeneration, featured in stome carvings trepang dried sea cucumbers, Chinese delicacy; prime trade item ubi sweet potato warung food stall, small eatery wow-ipitsj (Asmat) master carver; status almost equal to that of the greatest warriors WWF World Wildlife Fund; assisting in conservation projects throughout Indonesia wuramon (Asmat) long soulships; carved in northwest Asmat area; used in initiation rites youngal (Dani) skirts of strong plant fiber worn by married women, slung low on their hips 227 ABOUT THE CONTRIBUTORS Dave Cox was a lecturer with the English Department ofthe Cenderawasih University when he worked and lived in Jayapura for 2 years as a Canadian volunteer. Jenny Foster-Smith has an MA in Economics and is a partner and managing director of a small economic and marketing advisory company. Since 1995, she has been serving as a British Voluntary Service Overseas volunteer working in Manokwari as a business adviser to the YBLBC Butterfly Farming Agency. Rainer Haarring lived in Jakarta for 5 years and then in West Papua for 6 years where he assisted the West Papua Joint Development Foundation in Jayapura as an integrated expert in producing, processing and marketing agricultural products. He introduced modern farming techniques to self-help farmers' groups in the interior highlands. Currently, he guides trekking tours through West Papua, Java, Bali, and Lombok. Linda Hoffman moved to Indonesia in 1990, and she has been traveling throughout the archipelago and writing about it ever since. She is the author and editor of Kebun Binatang Ragunan, a photographic essay supporting Jakarta's Ragunan Zoo and focusing on Indonesia's endangered wildlife. She has also written numerous articles for magazines and newspapers celebrating Indonesia's people, cultures, handicrafts, wildlife, and nature. Virginia Jealous is a consultant in tourism planning and training. She has travelled and birded extensively in Indonesia, and served as an Australian Volunteer Abroad (1994-1996) working on sustainable tourism projects with the Marind People in southern West Papua. Ann Rocchi, was the provincial Information Officerfor the World Wildlife Fund West Papua Program when she worked and lived in Jayapura for two years as a Canadian volunteer.

228 A page number in bold type: an article on the subject. One in italics: an illustration. Abepura 63, 82, 196 Abreu, Antonio d' 36 Adoki (Biak) 68, 71 Agats 30, 145, 146, 151, 154, 158,158-161,162,163, 165 map 220 name 159 practicalities 217-220 agriculture 17, 28-29, 32, 43, 64, 108, 115 Ajam 147 Akima (Baliem) 124, 125-126 .... mummy 136 Albertis, Luigi Maria d' 36, 37, 40,88 AMA 187, 206 Amamapare (Timika) 55, 56 Ambai (Yapen) 77 Amborep (Asmat) 163 amos 147,161 Amung 32 ancestors 25, 31, 65, 97, 113, 137, 152, 154 Andei (Numfor) 75 Anggi Lakes 87.90-91, 91, 202 I Angguruk 33, 209 animism 65, 148 anteaters 24 Ao (Asmat) 154 Apayo Island (Jayapura) 83 Arafura Sea 22, 103 Archbold Richard 43, 106-108, 110 Expedition 43, 106-109, 116 Arfak 59,88 butterflies 25, 90-91 Mountains 19, 25, 88, 89, 90,183,202 Asaibori (Numfor) 75 Agats town 218 Asmat region 156-157 Baliem Valley 126-127 Biak Island Group 69 Biak town 194-195 Bomberai Peninsula 97 Freeport Mine Road 212 Index Asmat 17, 30- 31, 32, 38, 43, 113,145-165 Art Project 149 art 152-155 carvers 151, 152, 155, 162 carvings 146, 152-155, 160, 161, 163 Center (Pusat Asmat) 160 ceremonies 145, 145, 149, 164 drums (em) 154-155, 162 dugout 161, 165 festival 154, 161, 162 feasts 149 Foundation 160 hunter 23 map 183-184 Museum 145, 155, 160 name derivation 147 practicalities 217-220 shields 152-154, 154 village 148 vocabulary 220 Aswetsj River 158, 161 Atsj (Asmat) 147, 154, 158, 163-164 Atuka (Asmat) 150 Australians 48, 151 Austronesians 28, 31 Ayam (Asmat) 151, 159 Ayamaru Lake 87 Babililok (Baliem) 135 Baliem Highlands 103-141 Go~e 48,103,128-129, 138 map 104-105 practicalities 205-211 River 103, 141 Valley 17,18,28,30, 43, 48,109,124-129 Baruki (Numfor) 75 Base G beach (Jayapura) 60- 61,81 Batanta Island 19, 93, 94, 203 Bawei (Numfor) 74 Beccari, Odoardo 40, 88 Map Index Geology 20 Highlands 104-105 Indonesia 166 Jayapura area 80 Jayapura town 197 Language groups 27 Manokwari town 200 INDEX Bechtel 55 Bene River 130 Berau (MacCluer) Gulf 87, 95-86,98-99 Beriten (Asmat) 160 Betsj River 145, 146, 163, 165 Biak 17,19,30,31,36,45, 59,63,64-73 dancers 67 maps 69, 194-195 practicalities 192-195 Big Men 31, 34, 113, 114, 126 Bintuni Bay 18, 19, 21, 88 Bird's Head Peninsula 18, 19, 31,36, 87-99 practicalities 200-204 birds 22, 68, 77 birds of paradise 22, 23, 23, 31,38, 39,68, 77,94, 96, 225 brush turkey 22 bowerbirds 22 cassowary 21,22,68,86,225 hornbill 68 lories 68, 159 riflebirds 22, 223 Victoria crown pigeon 14- 15, 22,219 birding 77 , 81,94,183, 193, 212 bisj (Asmat) 145, 149, 153, 154 festival 161 Bisjimam villages 149, 154, 160 Bitsyari Bay 95, 97 Biwar Laut men 32, 148, 149 Biwar Laut (Asmat) 163, 164-165 Bogo River 141 Bokondini 48, 140-141 Bomberai Peninsula 87,95-97, 98 map 97 Borobudur 26 Borokoe 67 Bosnik (Biak) 66, 67 , 68 Merpati routes 186-187 Pelni routes 188-189 Sorong town 93 Timika area 212 Wamena town 206 Wasur National Park 223 West Papua 2-3

INDEX Bougainville, Compte de, 38 Bras (Asmat) 152 Brazza River 152 Breton, Ande 65 bride price Biak 64,66 Dani 103, 112 Fakfak 96 Sougb 91 British 41-42 East India Company 38, 39 Ornithologists' Union 41 Bromly, Myron 111 Brongersma Expedition 33 Bruijn, Dr. Jean Victor de 118 Bruyn, Feuilletau de 66 Budiarjo, Ali 54 Bugis 31, 38, 52, 145, 159, 160, 163 butterflies 96 birdwing 25, 90-91, 202 cacao 88 cannibalism 17,32,34,50, 54,146,149 canoes 74, 154, 161, 165, 165,219 see also dugout Cape Abba 98 Cape Barari (Biak) 69 cargo cult 47,56 Carstensz, Jan 38 Carstensz Top see Puncak Jaya carvings Asmat 152-155, 218-219 Biak 68, 69, 193 Casuarina Coast 19, 150 Cathedral of the Sacred Heart 152 Catholic mission 34, 35, 46-50, 145, 149, 151, 154, 158, 159-160 air service (AM A) 187, 206 Crosier order 155, 159, 160 Cator, Dr. J. W. 118 caves 63, 64, 70-71, 75, 94, 97,128 Cenderawasih Bay 19, 21, 30, 37,38,63,66,96,202 Cenderawasih Bay National Ma· rine Park 182, 183, 202 Cenderawasih University Museum 63, 82 Chinese 29, 31, 38, 63, 81, 159, 160 Christian and Missionary Alliance (CAMA) 47,48, 111, 129 Citak 152, 158 Colijn, Dr. A.H. 42 Cook's Bay 150 Cook, Capt. James 17, 38, 150 copper mine see Freeport coral reef 24, 74, 90, 93, 96 Cortez, Hernan 36 cowrie shel ls 33, 108, 116, 120 crocodi le 24, 83 farm 68 Cutts, Bill and Grace 118 Cutts, John 50, 118-121, 119 Daelah (Baliem) 130, 131 Dagum River 130 Dale, Stan ley 34, 50 Damal people 32 Dampier, William 38 dance, traditional 91 Asmat 164 Sougb 91 Dani 16,17,30,31,32,43, 48,50,103,107-108, 110-117, 124, 135, 146 compound 112, 115-116, 124, 126 farming 108,117 funerals 114-115, 115 Kurelu Dani 112-113 language 111 missionaries 111-112 people 16, 47,103,106, 110,111,113,139 re ligion 48-49, 110-112, 114 warfare 110, 113-114 warrior 127 Dayaks 41, 43, 107 Dead Birds (film) 113, 146 Decker, Kenneth 111 Depapre (Jayapura) 81 Digul River 32, 37, 41, 43 diving 70, 76, 81, 182, 199 Dongson bronzes 29, 99 Doodslager River 39 Doom Island 92, 94, 99, 203 Dore Bay 22,38,40,80,87,88 Doreri 88 Dozy, Jean Jacques 42, 51, 53 dugout 95-96, 96, 113, 215 see also canoe Dugum Dani, The 113-114, 226 Dukum (Baliem) 112 Dutch 30,35,38,39,41-43, 46,48,57-59,80-81, 106-108, 150-151 echidna 21, 24, 223 Eilanden River 41 Eipomek see Mek Eipomek (Highlands) 32 Ekari 30, 32, 34-35, 42, 46, 47, 118 religion 34 Elegaima (Highlands) 140 Eluard, Paul 65 em (Asmat) 154-155 Enarotali 35, 46, 47, 59, 118 Engros (Jayapura) 81, 199 Erikson , Walter, 88 Ertsberg 51, 53-54 see also mountains, Bijih ethnic diversity 30-35 Etna, Dutch warship 84 Europeans 36-39 Evangelical Mission Alliance, The (TEAM) 151 Ewta River 154, 165, 165 exploration 40-43 Fakfak 31, 39, 87, 95, 96 practicalities 203-204 fan nanggi (Biak) 65 farming 21, 28, 33 fetish burning 112 fire·walking 64, 68, 71, 71 fish 24 229 fishlng industry 24, 64, 93, 159 Flamingo Bay 145, 150, 158, 165 flora and fauna 21-25 Fly River 36, 37, 39, 40 flying foxes 24, 90 food 28-29, 115,119, 147, 177-178 Forrest, Thomas 38 Fort Coronation 38 Fort du Bus 39 Frans Kaisiepo Airport 67 Freeport 51-56, 160 frog 24 gaba-gaba (Biak) 72 Gajdusek, Carletaon 152 Gaissau , Pierre Dominique 43 ganekhe (Dan i) 114 Gardens of War 113, 224 Gardner, Robert 112, 113 gardens 43, 72, 115 Garuda Airlines 56, 186 Geissler, Johann 46, 88, 90 geography 18-19 geology map 20 Gerbrands, Adrian A. 146 Gereja Koawi 89 Germans 39, 80 Goa Binsari (Biak) 70-71, 70 gold 36-37,51 Goras (Bird's Head) 96, 98 Grijalva, Hernando de 37 Grimes, Major Myron J. 110 Guba (Archbold's plane) 43, 106-108, 107 gunung see mountain Gunung Meja Park 89 Gurabesi 66 Habifluri River 107 Hamadi (Jayapura) 81 Harer, Heinrich 42, 116 Hartog, Dr. de 42 Harvard-Peabody Expedition 112-113, 146 Hastings, Margaret 111 Hatta, Mohammed 57 Hayes, Capt John 38, 87 head-hunting 17, 30, 31, 66, 146, 148, 149, 154 health 173-177 Heider, Carl G. 112-114 Herderschee, Franssen 42 Hetegima 48, 111, 129 Highlands 103-141 map 104-105 practicalities 205-211 hiking see trekking Hill, Alex 41 Hmanggona 32 Hollandia 43, 44, 45, 63, 80-81,106 Holtekang Bay 81 honai (Dani) 82, 108, 112, 116, 133, 140 hongi (Biak) 39, 66 horim (Dani) 17,33, 103, 115-116 house, traditional Asmat 148-149

230 Dani 108, 116, 126, 133, 140 Sougb 91 Humboldt Bay 45, 80 Hurley, Frank 41 Ibele Atas (High lands) 130 Ibele Valley 108 ikat 91 Ilaga (Highlands) 47,209 Iluerainma salt spring 128 IMEX, Dutch company 151 Indonesianization 48,59,117, 154 initiation rituals 154 insects 25 Insubabi Island 73 Irian name 56, 59, 65 Irish potato 32, 115 Jamaludin, Sultan 66 Jamas-Jeni village (As mat) 154 jamasj (Asmat) 149, 152-153 Jamasj (Asmat) 151 Jansz, Wil lem, 37 Japanese 35,44- 45,57, 66-67 , 80,88,151,159 caves 63,64,70-71, 70, 75, 94 memorial 75, 89, 93-94, 94 museum 70 Jaqai 30 Javanese 26, 38, 52, 63, 64, 81, 147 Jayapura 17,44,63,80-83, 106 map 80,197 practicalities 196-199 Jayawijaya (Oranje) Range 18, 43 Jefman Island 94 Jekni River 136 Jepem (Asmat) 160, 161 Jet River 162 jeu (Asmat)' 82,145, 147, 148-149, 151, 154, 154, 160, 161, 162, 164 jipae (Asmat) 149, 154 Jisik, Herman 162 Jiwe River 14 7151,165 Jiwika (Highlands) 124, 125-126 Kabra Island 93, 94, 203 Kaimana 31, 87,95,97 practicalities 204 rock art 97 , 99 kain (Dani) 112, 113, 125 kain timur 31 Kaisiepo, Frans 65 Kameri (Numfor) 75 Kamoro 214-216 Kamrau Bay 87 Kamu Valley 34, 35 Kamur 158 Kana River 136 Kapauku see Ekari Kapi (Asmat) 154 Karubaga 48, 136-141 Kasyom Bay 75 Kayu Island 81 Kekwa 215-216 Kelila (Highlands) 141 Kemandoga Valley 118 kettledrums, bronze 29 Kimaam Island 19 Kimbim, Highlands 129, 141 Kimyal 32, 34 Koch, Klaus Friedrich 33 Kokas 96, 98 practicalities 204 Kokonau (Asmat) 150-151 Kolff, Lt. D. H. 39, 150 Kombai 32 Kanda River 136 Korem (Biak) 72-73 Korido (Supiori) 73 Korowai 32 Korupun 32 karwar (Biak) 65 kosarek 211 Kota Baru 80 koteka 33, 59, 117 Kremer, J.H.G. 110 Kremer expedition 106 Kruijt, Gerrit 33 Kugapa (Highlands) 46, 118 Kurima 128- 129 Kuzume, Col. Naoyuki 67 Lait, George 111 Lake Archbold 107- 108, 108 Lake Habbema 107-108, 129, 130-135, 134 Lake Kabori 90 Lake Plains region 19, 21, 43, 107 Lake Sentani 25, 44-45, 63, 82-83, 83, 199 Lake Tigi & Tage 46 Lake Yamur 25 Lang, Andrew 41 languages 17,27,30,31, 33, 88, 111 Lani see Western Dani Ie Maire, Jacob 38 Leman Island 88, 89-90 lela (Fakfak) 96 limestone 19, 64 Linggadjati Agreement 57 Linschoten, Jan van 23 lionfish 77 lizard, frilled 24, 25 Lorentz Range 41 Lorentz, Dr. H. A. 42 Lorentz expedition 110 Lorentz Strict Nature Reserve 183 Lost World of Irian Jaya , The 33,227 lumber 92,151,163 MacArthur, Gen. Douglas 44-45, 63, 80 monument 82 MacCluer Gulf see Berau Gulf Maclay, Nicolas Mikluho 40 Maibrat (Ayamaru) 31 Maimai (Bird's Head) 97 malaria 29, 32, 39, 146, 148, 174-175 Malay Archipelago, The 40, 225 Malaya-Polynesians 28 Mamberamo River 19, 30, 42, 43, 136 Mandori (Numfor) 74 Manem Island 75 INDEX Manga painting style 98-99 Manggari (Numfor) 74, 75 mangroves 21, 55, 88, 146. 218-219 Manokwari (Bird's Head) 19, 25, 31, 38,39,66,67, 74,80,87,88-91, map 200 practicalities 200-202 mansaren (Biak) 66 Mansinam Island 88, 89-90, 202 Mansurbabo (Padaido Islands) 70 Manyembow (Bird's Head) 90 Mappi River 41 Marind-Anim 29, 39, 216 Markus, Chief Ari 164 marsupials 21, 22, 24, 223 bandicoots 24, 223 cuscus 24, 130, 223 possums 24 tree kangaroo 24, 96 wal laby 19, 24, 225 Maruni (Bird 's Head) 90 massoi 38, 39, 76 Masters, Phil 34, 50 Maton Island 94 Matthiessen, Peter 110, 112-113 Maturbongs, Fe lix 159 matutuo 97, 98 McCluer, John 38 McCollom, John 111 Meervlakte see Lake Plains region megapods 22 Mek (Eipomek) 32, 34 Meneses, Jorge de 36 men's house see: jeu Merauke 19, 30, 39, 151 practicalities 221-223 Merkus, Peter 39 Merpati Airlines 59, 76, 185-188 flights 172 metallophones 29 Mimika 151, 159 Mimikan 30, 31, 150-151 mining 92 Misool Island 19 missionaries 32-34, 35, 46-50, 64,66,88,91, 111-112, 136-137, 148, 151, 160 Missionary Aviation Fellowship (MA~ 91, 141, 187, 205-206 Mitton, Robert 33, 34, 103 Mokmer 67 Momi 90 money 171 Moni 32, 33, 46, 50, 118-121, 119, 121 Moordenaar River 39 mountains 18 Bijih (Ertsberg) 51-54, 52 Cyclops 83, 183 Hannekam 55 Ifar 82 Jayawijaya (Oranje) Range 43 Mandala 19 Ngga Pulu 19, 42, 43, 210 Puncak Jaya 18, 19, 42,

85-86, 209-210 Snow Range 18-19, 106 Sudirman Range 18, 18, 42,43,108 INDEX Trikora (Wilhelmina) 19,41, 42,107,129,130-134, 135,210 Umsini 90 Van Rees 42-43 Wisnumurti (Star) Range 18,19,43 Yamin 19 Zaagham 52 mourning 114, 115, 161 Mulia 48 mummies 114, 124, 125-126, 129, 129 Museum Negeri 63, 82 Muslims 38 Nabire 35, 139 practicalities 202 Nalca 32,34 Namatota Island 97 Namber (Numfor) 75 nanggi (Biak) 65 Negarakertagama 26 Neva (boat) 36 New Guinea 18, 21, 22, 26, 27,28 border 39 name 37 World War II 44 New York Agreement 58 Newton, Douglas 152 Ninia 33 noken (Dan i) 116 nomadism 31 non-government organization (NGO) 193, 199, 202 Numfor Island 19,63,64,67, 74-75,88; practical ities 195 Nusi Island 70 Oedhien, Amhier, guide 162 oil 58,87,88,92,151 Omadesep (Asmat) 147 Onin Peninsula 87, 96 Opiaref (Biak) 68-69 Oransbari (Bird 's Head) 90 orchids 21, 68, 96 Organisasi Papua Merdeka 56, 59 Ota painting style 99 Otsjanep (Asmat) 23, 147, 165 Ottow, C.W. 46, 88, 90 Owi Island 69 Owus (Asmat) 160, 165 Pacific Ocean Plate 18 Padaido Islands 63, 64, 68, 69-70 Paniai Lakes 18, 30, 32, 34, 42, 46, 118 Papuans 26, 27, 28 Pakreki (Numfor) 75 papisj (Asmat) 150 Pasir Enam (Jayapura) 82 Pasir Hitam (Yapen) 77 Pasir Putih (Manokwari) 88, 89, 202 Pasir Putih (Yapen) 77 Pass Val ley 32, 124 Patterson , Harry 111 pearl farm 93 Pelni 186-188 penis gourd (horim or koteka) 17,32,33,50, 115, 117,137 peoples Amung 32 Arfak 88 Asmat see Asmat Citak 152, 158 Damal 32,47 Dani see Dani Doreri 88 Ekari 30, 32, 34-35 Hmanggona 32 Jaqai 30 Kimyal 32, 34 Kombai 32 Korowai 32 Maibrat (Ayamaru) 31 Marind-Anim 29, 30, 39 Mek (Eipomek) 32, 34 Mimikan 30, 31, 150-151 Moni 118-121 Sepik 152 Sougb 91 Uhundini 32 Wanesa 88 Western Dani (Lani) 32, 103, 136-141 Yali 32-33, 50, 210-211 Pertamina 92 Per (Asmat) 160 phallocrypts 32 see also horim, koteka phallus 149 Philippines 28 Pigafetta, Antonio 36 pigs 32, 34, 103, 108, 113, 114, 115, 116, 120 Piramat (Asmat) 24 plants 21, 119 police 138, 141, 155, 162 polygamy 34, 112 pondok 131-135 population 17, 63, 64, 80, 81, 88,103, 147 Port Moresby 37, 39, 42, 44 Portuguese 26,28,36 Pospisil , Dr. Leopold 34, 35 possum , striped 24 Powet River 162, 163 prehistory 26-29 Prafi (Manokwari) 90, 202 Protestant mission 33, 34-35, 46-50, 66, 151, 155 air service (MAF) 189, 205-206 Christian and Missionary Alliance (CAM A) 129 KINGMI 136 Pugima (Baliem) 125 Pulau Buaya 93, 94, 203 Pulau Pulau River 41 PuncakJaya 209-210 Pyramid 48, 112, 124, 129, 139, 141 rainforest 25, 183 Raja Empat Islands 19, 31, 65,66,87, 92, 93, 94, 92, 93 Rani Island 73 rebellions 88 Retes, Ynigo Ortiz de 37 rice 29, 117 . rivers Aswetsj 158, 161 Baliem 103, 141 Bene 130 Betsj 145, 146, 163, 165 Bogo 141 Brazza 152 Dagum 130 Dairum 152 Digul 32,37,41,43 Doodslager 39 Ewta 154,165,165 Fly 36, 37, 39, 40 Habifluri 107 Jekni 136 Jet 162 Jiwe 146,67 Kano 136 Konda 136 Kurege 136 Mamberamo 19, 30, 42, 43, 136 Mappi 41 Moordenaar 39 Powet 162, 163 Pulau Pulau (Eilanden) 41 Sepik 152 Siretsj 103, 163, 165 Tariku 19,43, Taritatu 19, 43, 107 Timika 19, 55 Tipuka 55 Unir 152 Uwe (Wamena) 101-102, 134, 135 Yalime 116 Rochemont, de 150 rock art 87, 95, 95-97, 98,9S-99 Rockefeller, Michael C. 17, 31, 112-113, 145, 146-147, 152 Fund 160 Roessler, Calvin & Ruth 151 Ronsumbre, Biak carver 68 Royal Netherlands Geographical Society 150 Roder, Josef 98-99 Rumboi (Numfor) 75 Saavedra, Alvaro de 36-37 sago palms 21,30,72,147, 154 Sahul Shelf 18, 26 Salawati Island 19,87,93 salt extraction 125, 128 saltwater springs 128, 129 Sampaina (Baliem) 126 Sanepa 118 Sansapor 67 Saribi (Numfor) 75 Sauln ier, Tony 43 Sawa-Erma 151, 158

232 INDEX Schouten Islands 63 Schouten, Willem 38 Sea Gull 40, 41 sea travel 95, 146, 159, 188-189 seaweed cultivation 65 Sebakor Bay 96 Senggo (Asmat) 152, 158 Sentani 44-45, 80, 193-199 Sepik River 152 Semi (Yapen) 76, 77 sexual activity 115, 148-149 shaman-smiths 66 sharks 25, 93 fishing 159 Sibyl Valley 43 Sinatma (Highlands) 151 Siretsj River 103, 163, 165 Sjuru (Asmat) 151, 154 skulls 148, 154, 159 Sky Above and The Mud Below, The (film) 43 slaves 24, 31, 38 snakes 24 snorkeling 17, 69, 70, 72, 73, 74, 76, 89, 90, 93, 202 Suharto 54, 56, 58, 59, 166 Sukarno 54, 57, 58, 166 sonowi (Moni) 120 Sorendidori Bay 64 Sorida 67 Sorong 19, 31, 36, 58, 87, 92-94, 151 map 93 practicalities 202-203 Sougb 91 soulships see wuramon souvenirs 207, 220-221 Sowada, Bishop Alphonse A. 159,160 Sowek (Supiori) 73 Spanish 28, 36-37 spirits see animism stone tools 27, 103, 116 Sudirman Range 18, 18, 42, 43, 118 Sugokmo 124, 128 Summer Institute of Linguistics 82, 88, 211 Supiori 63, 64, 72, 73 Nature Reserve 183 suratjalan 87, 128, 138,141, 178-179, 217-218, 221 Sureri (Bird's Head) 90 swamps 19, 30 Swapodibo (Biak) 68 sweet potato 28-29, 31, 32, 108, 115, 117 Tabulinetin painting style 98, 99 Tagime (Highlands) 139, 141 Taiwan 28, 159 Tamrau Mountains 19 Tangma (Baliem) 129 Tanjung Barari(Biak) 69 Tanjung Kasuari (Bird's Head) 93 Tapiro 39 Tariku River 19, 43, Taritatu River 19, 43 Teerink, Captain 43, 107-108 Tembagapura 51-56, 117, 212 Tidore 26, 31, 38, 39, 66 Tillemans, Fr. H. 39 timber 25, 64, 92 Timika practicalities 212-216 Timika River 19, 55 Tipuka River 55 Torres Strait 37, 38 Torres, Luis Vaez de 37 totem poles see bisj trade 29, 31, 38, 116, 148 transmigrants 59, 64, 90, 92 transportation 184-189 travel agents 183, 193, 203, 207-208 Treaty of Utrecht 37 trekking 76, 125-129, 130-135, 136-141, 182, 208-211 trepang 38, 39, 63, 74, 76, 94 Triton Bay 39, 87, 97 Tritt, Edward 88 Tugu Arfak (Sorong) 93, 94 tuna fishing 24, 64 Uhundini 32 Under the Mountain Wall 113, 224 United Nations 58-59, 155 United States 58 Urip (Padaido Islands) 70 Urville, Dumontd' 38 Uwe (Wamena) River 101-102, 134, 135 Uwosilimo (Highlands) 151 Van Areken, Lt. 107-108 Van Enk, Rev. Gert 50 Van Stone, LLoyd 111 visas 168-169 Vogelkop 18, 87 Waga-Waga (Baliem) 128 Waigeo Island 19, 22, 40, 87, 92, 93, 94, 98, 203 Wakde Island 45 Wallace, Alfred Russel 22, 40, 46, 80, 87, 88 Wallacea 22 Wamarek (Baliem) 129 Wamena 17, 48, 50, 111, 117, 124-129, 136, 141 map 206 practicalities 205-208 Wamesa group 88 Wandaman Bay 31 Wapsdori waterfall 73 Wapur 72 War and Peace in Jalemo 33, 220 Wardo 68, 73 warfare mock 111, 116, 125 ritual 17, 103, 113-114 Warmeri 88, 90 Waropen 65 Warsa(Biak) 72 Warsai 36 Warse (Asmat) 162-163 Wassing, Rene 146 Wasur National Park 182, 183, 222-223 waterfall 72, 73, 73, 96, 139 weather 170 Agats 158 Fakfak 203 Highlands 139 Raja Empat Islands 94 Wesaput (Baliem) 125 Western Dani (Lani) 32, 136-141, 137 wildlife 22, 25, 182 Wilson, Forbes 53-54 Wilson, John 49 Wisnumurti (Star) Range 18, 19,43 Wissel, Lt. F.J. 35, 42, 42 witchcraft 48, 137 Wollaston 42 woodcarving Asmat 146, 152-155, 160, 161, 163, 220 Biak 68, 69 Wo'ogi (Baliem) 129 World War II 35, 44-45, 64, 66-67, 70, 75, 88, 93 relics 63, 75, 90, 94 World Wildlife Fund (WWF) 25, 63, 83, 183, 223 wow-ipitsj (Asmat) 152 Wunin 113, 139, 139-140 Wuperainma (Highlands) 112 Yali 32-33, 50, 124, 210-211 Yalime 168 Yalime River 126 Yamu Valley 34 Yapen Island 19, 31, 63, 76-77 Yapen Waropen district 76 yaws 33, 39 Yenburwo (Numfor) 74, 75 Yos Sudarso Bay 78-79, 80, 81 Yotefa Bay 63, 81 Yotefa shipping line 185 youngal (Dani) 116 Zegwaard, Fr. Geradus A 148, 151, 159