INDONESIAN NEW GUINEA - WEST PAPUA/IRIAN JAYA

THE AS MAT 1 5 1 with guns—at the other, the Asmat were slaughtered. Only 16 remained to be escorted to the jail in Fakfak. During the war years, the Japanese occupied the Mimika area around Kokonau with 1,000 troops. This was their furthest outpost on New Guinea's south coast The Australians hung on at Merauke. Japanese patrols reached into Asmat territory as far as Sjuru (next to present-day Agats) and Ayam. The immediate post-war years were marked by greatly increased raiding. In 1946 the Sawa-Erma alliance initiated a long series of bloody battles which eventually led 6,000 Asmat to flee to Mimika for safety. By 1948, the number of Asmat refugees in Mimika approached one-third of the total Asmat population, and threatened Mimika's food supplies. The Asmat community in Mimika gave Father Zegwaard the opportunity to establish a school for the Asmat, and learn their language and some of their culture. Soon thereafter, he started exploring Asmat country and in 1953 established the mission headquarters in Agats. (See "Agats," page 158). The missionaries arrive The first Asmat was baptized a Roman Catholic in 1954. By 1956, the mission claimed 2,000 converts. The missionaries set about proselytizing in earnest, learning the various Asmat dialects and finding out about Asmat custom and ritual life. The Protestants have never had as strong a presence among the Asmat, although the first Protestant missionaries have been in the region almost as long as the Catholics. The Evangelical Mission Alliance (TEAM) opened its first post at Ayam in 1956, a few months after the Catholic Church set up a permanent presence there. Calvin and Ruth Roessler, who brought the evangelical faith to Ayam more than four decades ago, were still ministering their flock in 1991. While the missions and the Dutch government were beginning to reshape the Asmat culture, chiefly by prohibiting head-hunting and encouraging fixed and centralized villages, the world of commerce took note of the Asmat land. The Dutch import-export company IMEX, based first in the police post of Agats in 1953, and later locating its headquarters in Jamasj, started a large coconut plantation and set up a sawmill for lumber exports. In 1958 a Dutch oil company based in Sorong began explorations of the Asmat area from Jaosakor, but the findings were disappointing. Later, the U.S. company Conoco came to the same conclusions, fortunately for the Asmat. Lumber, particularly two local varieties of hardwood called redwood and ironwood, became the only commercially important export from the Asmat region. Chopping down these trees and floating them out to the coast was hard work (for example, the ironwood didn't even float, and had to be lashed to canoes) and the Asmat were forced to do it for little or not pay. Woodcutting is in principle not a bad occupation for the Asmat. It gives the men some time in the forest, and by local standards is fairly lucrative. But particularly when Indonesia took over administration of the land in 1963, exploitation by merchants, administrators and police became common. The men were threatened, beaten, and regularly cheated of their pay. Persistent efforts by the diocese and a series of muckraking articles in Jakarta papers finally brought and end to the practices in the early 1980s. Now, most of the ironwood cut is used for local consumption. Opposite: The famed bisj ancestor poles line the rear wall of an Asmat jeu. Above, left: When the tide has reduced the Jiwe River to a trickle, women work the brown water for small fish and shrimp. Above, right: A carver at work on a canoe prowhead in Warse.

152 ASMATART World-Class Traditional Woodcarving Collectors and scholars consider Asmat woodcarving to be among the world's finest. The powerful lines and coarse, expressive motifs appeal strongly to the contemporary western eye. Collectors today pay thousands of dollars for good Asmat carvings, and sometimes even hundreds for bad ones. One of the great admirers of Asmat art was the young Michael Rockefeller. "The key to my fascination with the Asmats is the woodcarving," he said. "The sculpture which the people here produce is the most extraordinary in the primitive world." Although wood is plentiful in the Asmat lands, pigments were scarce, limiting the artists to three basic colors: red, from ocherous clay; white, from calcined clam shells; and black, from soot. Until the introduction of metal tools, the stone, shell and bone implements used forced the artists to work in rather soft, fibrous woods. Woodcarving and the spirits To the Asmat, woodcarving was inextricably connected with the spirit world. Important carvings were always produced in a ritual context, and served as powerful materializations of ancestral and other spirits. Carvings were often named for those who recently died, serving to remind their owners that vengeance was still not served. (Only babies and the very old died a "natural" death. Everyone else was killed, either physically in battle, or by magic.) Also, the first humans were carved out of wood, and then brought to life by the creator Fumeripitsj. In this context, the carvings cannot be principally considered aesthetic objects. They are far from identical expressions of mythic forms, however. Motifs are highly schematic, and vary dramatically in their style of execution from carver to carver. While all Asmat did some carving, the best pieces were sculpted by specialists, and their work was immediately recognized as superior. These master THE ASMAT REGION carvers, or wow-ipitsj, acquired status almost equal to that of the greatest warriors. New Guinea's other famous artists are the people of the Sepik river in northern Papua New Guinea. Dr. Carleton Gajdusek, Nobel prize winner in medicine, has concluded based on blood typing that the Asmat and the Sepik are related. He postulates that the Asmat left the Sepik river area at least several hundred years ago, crossed the central cordillera and settled in their present location on the coast. The work of traditional art expert Douglas Newton shows a marked similarity in motifs between the work of Asmat and Sepik carvers, lending even more credence to Gajdusek's hypothesis. Style regions and objects The Asmat area is divided into four major zones based on art styles: Northwest Asmat; Central Asmat; the Citak region to the east, around Senggo and the Dairam Rivers; and the foothill region around the Brazza River to the northeast, around Bras. In terms of designs and motifs, the Northwest and Central Asmat regions are the richest. In the Citak and Brazza River areas, shields are the only elaborate carvings one encounters. War shields (jamasf), sometimes more than two meters high, are the Asmat's most famous art pieces. In the coastal areas they are carved from the thin, wide buttress roots of a type of mangrove tree; in the foothills and inland, they are made from cut planks. The shield, emblazoned with strange and magical motifs, was a warrior's most important weapon. It gave him strength and courage, and was an offensive weapon as well. A man would rather go into battle with only a shield than with only his bow and spear. Some mysterious designs were so powerful they could paralyze the enemy with fear. Shields show most distinctly the differences among style regions: Northwest shields tend to have a complex pattern of many small motifs, and are topped by a flat stingray motif; Central shields have larger, somewhat simpler designs (very often a human) and are topped by a small, threedimensional figure and usually decorated with rattan tassels; Citak shields have large, geometric designs, often seeming floral (almost Matisse-like), and the top displays divided fields of color, but is uncarved; Brazza shields are similar to Citak shields, with perhaps more rectilinear designs, Opposite: Raising the bisj poles.

ASMAT ART 1 5 3

154 THE ASMAT REGION and curious, tiny "eyes" at the top. Monumental carvings The most dramatic sculptures created by Asmat artists are the tall totem poles called bisj. These stand 3-5 meters, and are carved into a lattice of small clambering figures. At the top, a wing—the tjemen or phallus of the carving—sticks out like a flag. The bisj were one of the most powerful carvings, and were historically associated with head-hunting. The figures represented were real people, clansmen crying out for revenge. The carvings were part of a ceremonial cycle that culminated in a retaliatory raid. Bisj are carved only in certain villages (called Bisjmam, for this reason), in the coastal region south of Agats, from the Unir to the Ewta rivers, and inland as far as Atsj. The ceremony, which requires months of preparation, is infrequently held. The carving begins with the selection of an appropriate tree (a species of mangrove) which has a buttress root large enough to serve as the pole's tjemen. The tree is harvested, and brought into the jeu to be carved. After the ceremony, the bisj—like all the monumental carvings—were taken to the sago fields, broken up, and allowed to rot. In this way the spirit in the carving would pass to the sago trees, promoting a good harvest. (Today, of course, such carvings would be snapped up by a collector.) Long soulships, called wuramon, are another expression of fine monumental art. They were (and very occasionally, are) made only in the northwest Asmat area, in the villages of Jamasj-Jeni, Ao, Kapi and As-Atat. These bottomless canoes contained humanlike figures crouched face downward and several symbolic animals. The soulships were used in conjunction with initiation rituals. Not all the products of Asmat artists were carvings. Full body costumes, great shaggy cloaks of rattan called jipae, serve in another initiation ritual. The costumes, which have strange, otherworldly shapes, are made in secrecy, and unveiled only during the celebration. These costumes serve to drive spirits from the village. The jipae festival is still a rather poorly understood event, and it is probably a very rare occurrence. In the coastal and central areas, skulls of ancestors and head-hunting victims were decorated by filling the eye sockets with beeswax, and then pressing in blue-gray Job's tears seeds and the crinkled red seeds of the crab's eye vine. The tops of the skulls were also decorated with seeds and cockatoo feathers. Ancestor and trophy skulls are easy to distinguish: the latter have no jawbones (these were given to women to wear as necklaces), and have a large hole in the temple, where the brain was removed. Useful objects The work of artists also decorates more mundane, workaday objects such as canoes, paddles, drums, spears, and a variety of small bowls and utensils. Light, dugout canoes, the main form of transportation in the Asmat region, are still decorated with fine prowheads and carvings along the gunwales. The long paddles (the Asmat always stand up in their canoes) used to have knobs at the top that bore the face of a relative killed in a raid, thus serving as a daily reminder of a death that required payback. Asmat drums {em) all have the same basic hourglass shape, and all bear a drumhead of lizard skin. But each shows unique decorations on the side, carved into the wood after the body has been hollowed out by fire. The handles may be plain, carved with intricate, Above: Shields from the Asmat Museum in Agats, representing four style regions. From left: Central Asmat (Pirien); Northwest Asmat (Esmapano); Citak (Bras); and Brazza River (Asa-ljip-Enam). Opposite: Carvers in Atsj, the largest Asmat village and one famous for carving.

ASMAT ART 155 abstract lacework or shaped like humans. As I international market, and had been making it is being played — around a fire in the good money shipping out this contraband. In jeu—the skin is periodically held over the the early 1970s, the order was rescinded. fire to tighten it up. Lumps of beeswax on the During the period when art was being surface are used to tune it. destroyed by officials, the Catholic Church A 4- • 4~ -^ stepped in to buy carved items for safekeepArt in transition . K™ « v, 1 . .-c ing. The church s plan was to preserve the When West Papua was first integrated into Asmat cultural heritage so a later revival of Indonesia, over-zealous officials, anxious to the carving tradition would still be possible. "civilize" the Asmat, burned down the jeus, This policy eventually led to the Asmat forbade festivals and destroyed most existing Museum of Culture and Progress, officially sculptures. At this time, Protestant missionar- opened on August 17,1973. Here was a museies backed the officials, as they thought their um, with a fine collection of Asmat art, set up teachings could find better reception if there where the Asmat themselves can visit. In the were no men's houses, traditional feasts and history of the western collection of so-called arts. The Catholic mission was a notable, and primitive art, this is a rare thing indeed. (In outspoken opponent of this cultural genocide. fact, the very best and earliest Asmat sculpFueled by the then new, liberal and far- tures were taken out during the time of reaching tenets of Vatican II, the young Dutch colonialism, and these now exist in Crosier order priests believed that, as much European museums.) as possible, the Asmat should retain their cul- In addition to continuing to buy fine traditure. Although teaching Christian doctrine, tional carvings, the museum also sponsors a they encouraged the use of Asmat ritual yearly contest to look for new styles. We must objects in the Catholic liturgy, and encour- admit that the prizewinners from these are of aged traditional feasts and art. Churches very low quality compared to the other pieces were decorated with Asmat designs, and inau- in the museum. gurated just like a new jeu. But in at least looking for quality, the conThe Catholic missionaries, together with test bucks a strong, and unfortunate tide: United Nations officials and others, worked profit-minded merchants, paying pennies a to convince the Indonesian government to carving, who are exporting thousands of rescind the ban on traditional art and festi- units of very low-quality, churned-out Asmat vals. Already, some local officials had discov- woodcarvings for sale in Wamena, Jayapura ered just how valuable Asmat art was on the I and especially Bali and Java.

158 THE ASMAT REGION AG ATS Rickety Capital of the Asmat Region The small town of Agats sits barely propped above the mud on the south bank of the mouth of the Aswetsj River, where it empties into Flamingo Bay. Wooden walkways, raised on posts, serve as streets. The planks are not everywhere in good repair, and even in broad daylight walking about requires a keen sense of balance. Walking about at night without a flashlight is courting disaster. For the first few days you get a bit of a neck ache from looking down, but after a while the boards become familiar. Overconfidence, however, can quickly land you in the mud. When the tide is in, the water reaches to within a meter of the boards, and little boys jump in with glee, using either the boardwalks or half-submerged trees as diving boards. When the tide goes out, the town garbage is mercifully washed out to sea. Twice a year, just after Christmas and in June, the tides can exceed five meters. When this happens, great stretches of boardwalk can be submerged. This is not really the best season to visit. When the tide is out, mud remains. At this time the little mudskipper fish quarrel over their territories, and small orange and blue crabs scuttle about The boys are out in force then, armed with homemade slingshots, powered by dozens of little rubber bands tied into fat ropes. Mudball projectiles are aimed at the crabs with a triumphant cry of "Mati!" (Dead!) when a target is hit. Some five meters of rain falls each year in Agats, but it is spotty. Since the town's drinking water all comes from cisterns fed by the tin roofs, a two or three week dry spell can mean a lack of good water. A humble capital Agats is the capital of the Asmat region, the communications center, the commercial center, the educational center and the center of the Catholic mission. Of the four capitals in the region, Agats, with 1,500 residents, ranks only third in population. Both Atsj and SawaErma have more than 2,000 people; Kamur is less populous than Agats. Senggo is another administrative center, further inland and to the east This is the center of a region occupied by a number of ethnic groups, including the Citak, who are usually considered a subgroup of the Asmat. !iv )d ts

AGATS 159 Although one might think so, the town did not take its name from the bothersome little gnat-like biting bugs called agas, but from the Asmat word for "good"—akat—which degenerated into the current Agats. The first post was set up here in 1939 by Kei Islander Felix Maturbongs, a university graduate appointed District Officer by the Dutch. Maturbongs tried to start the post at the far more important village of Ayam, then the largest in all the Asmat region, but repeated flooding forced him to look for another site. This first post was, however, short-lived. Maturbongs himself destroyed it to prevent the site from being used by the Japanese, who occupied the Mimika area in 1942. After the war, many Asmat fled to Mimika, and from the refugees Father Gerardus Zegwaard learned the Asmat language. Zegwaard then decided to set up the center of the Catholic mission in the region at Agats, on February 3, 1953. A month later, the Dutch set up a police post there, and following a visit by the governor in 1955, Agats grew into a small town. After the Indonesians took over West Papua, they retained Agats as the principal administrative center of the region. Trade outpost Just in and to one side of the old dock is "downtown" Agats, a stretch of a couple dozen small stores and shops selling clothing, tinned or packaged food, tobacco, cheap household items and basic hardware. The proprietors of these businesses are almost all Bugis from South Sulawesi, with a few Torajans and one ethnic Chinese family. The stores line both sides of the boardwalk near the dock, and a few spill over into the town's main walkway. The wares are all very expensive, as they are freighted in from Surabaya, sometimes via Merauke. No other place in Asmat holds nearly so many stores. Agats also has a daily green market, Pasar Bhakti, held in a small building in front of the Asmat Inn. Its activities start at 5 a.m., and an hour later, it's deserted. Not much appears here—some green bananas, a few papayas, taro, manioc and manioc leaves, used as a vegetable, called singkong. The Bugis also own a fleet of some 15 seagoing fishing boats which specialize in catching sharks, for their fins. The dried fins are exported to Singapore, Hong Kong and Taiwan to end up in shark fin soup. These boats, which stay out at sea for up to a month at a time, motor out of Agats most of the year. During the local season of high waves, November/December through March/April, the vessels shift their operation to the seas around Merauke. Walking around the dock area where the Bugis live, you will see large nylon nets piled up, some being repaired by the fishermen enjoying a few days ashore. Agats is accessible via Merauke, and Merpati flies to Senggo, from where visitors board a motorboat for a 6-hour ride downriver. The airport at Ewer, just a few minutes by motorboat from Agats, is sporadically used. Important visitors come by chartered helicopter, landing on the wooden helipad in front of the camafs office in Agats. Mixed freighters stop in Agats to pick up passengers on their Merauke-Sorong runs, and other smaller craft plying the coast of the Merauke district do the same. The Pelni passenger ship, Tatamailau stops by once a month on its service between Agats and Banyuwangi, east Java. The Roman Catholic church, which pioneered the proselytization of the Asmat, continues to maintain its headquarters in Agats, largely run by American Crosiers today, under Bishop Alphonse A. Sowada. The Opposite: At high tide in Agats, the mudflats between the boardwalks become waterways. Above, left: Decorated skulls in the Asmat Museum. Those with mandibles intact are ancestor skulls. Above, right: Black-capped lories at the teachers' quarters at Pusat Asmat.

1 6 0 THE AS MAT REGION church looks after the worldly needs of the Asmat as well as the spiritual ones. Thanks to its efforts, while there are many schools now in the Asmat region, the area's best education is still to be found in Agats. The Asmat Museum It is perhaps in the field of cultural preservation that the Crosier Fathers and Brothers deserve the most credit. It would be difficult to find a more liberal and intelligent group of clerics anywhere. The missionaries have actively encouraged the retention of most of the essential elements of Asmat culture (with the notable exception of head-hunting and cannibalism), even in the face of governmental pressure. Although this is not immediately evident on the surface of things—the Asmat now wear clothes and rituals are not a daily occurrence—it is obvious in the preservation of fine woodcarving. Literally tons of junk art are produced, bought up for pennies apiece by Bugis and Chinese middlemen. This is subsequently shipped to western Indonesia where it is sold to tourists. This is not simple exploitation. The price most visitors will pay, coupled with the unwieldy scale of traditional Asmat carvings, conspire against fine craftsmanship and art. But beneath this torrent of mass-produced junk, Asmat woodcarving survives, in large degree thanks to the church. The Crosiers occasionally commission pieces, made in the context of feasting and ritual. The finest of these art pieces are on permanent display across the boardwalk from the mission headquarters in Agats. The Asmat Museum of Culture and Progress is a "must" for all visitors. The museum was inaugurated in 1973 by Bishop Sowada, partly with money from the Michael Rockefeller Fund. On display is an excellent selection of different objects from various regions. Shields and large monumental carvings, mask costumes, small items like bowls and bamboo horns, and even decorated ancestor and trophy heads are represented. The catalog, which explains the provenance and context of each piece, is excellent, having been written and illustrated by Tobias Schneebaum. The Asmat Center The Pusat Asmat is a large educational and cultural center just north of town. Follow the boards out and you will encounter a large open hall with two long wings housing the region's only high school. Financed by the Asmat Foundation out of Jakarta, there are teacher's quarters, classrooms, dormitories, and a main hall for carving and cultural training and demonstrations. Plans for the rest of the complex look like something meant for Bali or Waikiki Beach. There is a bar, a sports center and even a swimming pool. This part of the center is being funded by the deep pockets of Freeport Indonesia, and so far some U.S. $700,000—a veritable fortune in these parts—has been slated for the construction. The appropriateness of all this has been questioned by locals. The lavish use of redwood (which has become very scarce here) in building has been questioned, as has the durability of the swamp cedar posts supporting the building. These materials have never been used to construct such a large edifice, and under the best of circumstances, the insect and rot resistant cedar posts last only 10 years. The style and scale of the building makes replacing these an almost impossible job. Anyway, only time will tell. If the center comes about as planned, Agats will quickly become a very different town from today's small and easygoing village. A trip down the coast Other than to see the museum and to stock up on supplies, there is really no reason to spend much time in Agats. If you have time to spare, take the boardwalk to Sjuruh (Seeyooroo) village, less than 15 minutes' walk, past the Cathedral of the Sacred Heart. The raised plank walkway, which along several stretches here is always in need of repair, spans a creek and crosses part of Sjuru village, ending at the water. There's dijeu set back towards the Aswetsj River, next to the church, but getting there requires a long balancing act over logs and planks. Canoes lie in the tidal creek close to the walkway, as well as in the river. Sjuru is a good place to organize a trip up the coast, to the nearby Bisjmam villages of Jepem, Per, Owus and Beriten. If you go there early enough, you might be able to arrange a trip for the same day. But it is more likely that you can set things up for the following day. Ask for Demianus, if he is around. But if not, you could certainly find other willing paddlers. Demianus and a crew of four more padOpposite: A shark fishing boat at Agats. The fins are dried and sold to the Chinese market.

AGATS 161 dlers picked us up at the old Agats dock early one afternoon. We would have left earlier, but we had to make our ritual pilgrimage to Ewer, where Merpati pulled its fourth consecutive no-show in a row. The canoe was a long one, with its sides curved inward high above the water line. A long plank had been laid down for the three of us — long enough to stretch out if we wished. The prow was carved, as well as parts of the inner gunwales: on each side, forward, a man was strangling a snake; aft, two men were trying to chin-up over the canoe's edge. These little men watched over us. The men worked standing, Asmat-fashion, with four-meter oars. Two men forward, three aft, dipping their paddles in unison with barely a splash, scraping lightly against the hull, then lifting them out together for a second's rest. A steady, powerful rhythm sped us along the Aswetsj River, then along the coast to the south. After our earlier trip spent listening to the constant buzz of the 40 HP outboard, this silence, interrupted only by the paddling, was like magic. Occasionally one of the men broke out in song, a few chanted phrases followed by a strong, sustained note with just a hint of tremolo. These songs, Demianus said, told of women mourning men who had died in battle, of slain fathers and brothers, and of the love of a handsome warrior for a beautiful maiden. Flights of birds crossed overhead and small waves rocked us gently as we skirted the coast, meeting an occasional canoe out for an afternoon's fishing or heading to the "big city" of Agats. In a couple of hours we turned into a creek and landed at the village of Jepem. Jepem village Just as we balanced our way out of the canoe and over a long log, one of our party recognized a handsome elderly man, an excellent carver whom she had met the previous year. Unfortunately, he had not received the photos she had sent to him six months ago, but he was still obviously happy to see her—and held her hand for all of the hour or so we spent at Jepem. After a stroll through the village, escorted by every child between the ages of three and ten, we returned to the creekside jeu where our canoe was tied up. The long men's house was raised on a series of low piles, these carved with some very nice figures. Unfortunately, the small carvings we had been offered here were not very good. The people of Jepem were all pleasant and smiling, willing to answer questions. The men did a lot of carving here, and at the time we visited were planning a bisj festival. Many men would work on this carving and it would require three months' preparation, culminating in feasting (including lots of sago grubs), drumming, singing and dancing.

162 VISITING THE AS MAT Through the Asmat Lands by Canoe The atmosphere in the new jeu or bachelor's house was charged. Scraps of late afternoon light filtering in revealed a tight circle of seated men beating away on old drums, polished smooth by years of use. Plaintive songs filled the air, starting slowly, building in tempo, and then ending in a frenzy of drumming. When the pace picked up, men stood, and danced the knee-fluttering Asmat Charleston. Only men were present, some with feather head-dresses, large, curved shells through pierced septum, woven armbands some of which held bone daggers. Except for the tattered shorts, the scene could have come out of the time when the Asmat were dreaded head-hunters. Our luck at stumbling onto this festival had been extraordinary. Into the swamps We organized our trip through the Central Asmat region in Agats. We hired Amhier Oedhien, who owns a bright blue, 10-meter dugout with a 40HP outboard, to take us around. The pilot of the craft was Herman Jisik. We couldn't have asked for a better team. Both Amhier, a Bugis migrant to Agats, and Herman, an Asmat from Biwar-Laut, were good humored and very capable. Time and budget constraints put a limit on our trip—two days. Amhier charges $135 a day, very steep for Indonesia. His fee is justified, however, by the shockingly high price of fuel and equipment. Kerosene here costs three times what it does in Jayapura, and a simple outboard costs almost three times what it would in the United States. We were three passengers: myself, my friend and editor David, and Linda, a Bostonbased art collector and dealer. There was also another, unwelcome, guest. Deddy Junedy, a young, Uzi-wielding policeman from Agats. "Some of the Asmat do not yet understand government regulations," was his tersely delivered argument for accompanying us. To our relief, he turned out to be more or less THE ASMAT REGION well-behaved. (See "Asmat Practicalities," page 217, for more on this practice.) As we buzzed upriver at about 12 kilometers an hour, the shoreline vegetation underwent several changes. The species of trees changed, as the water became less brackish. Small birds performed acrobatic acts for us and occasional flocks of noisy lories crossed overhead. Except for a very few huts on stilts, a timber-loading dock, and an odd canoe, there were no signs of human life in the vast expanse of river and swamp. Warse: craftsmen In less than an hour, we reached the Jet River and turned south. We passed crocodile traps attached to floats (there are few of the animals left in the area) and several canoes. An hour and a half from Agats, where the Jet reaches the Powet River, we reached Warse (pop. 788). Clusters of stilt-perched huts followed the riverbank and extended a short distance inland. These were flanked by two jeus, one upriver and one downriver. Children and adults waved as we bumped into the mudbank and scrambled ashore. We set out to have a look at the village, balancing over logs which, above the mud, connected the houses to a drier inland path. Linda disappeared in a crowd of eager sellers, as soon as word was out that she was buying. David and I climbed into one of the long jeus, which was nearly deserted. We watched a man making bird-hunting arrows, straightening the long thin shafts by warming them in a fire. He then set the barbed tip to the shaft by smearing one end with a ball of resin. While we watched our man working, others came to the house with bone knives for sale. These were made of cassowary femurs, a large bone almost the size of a human femur. The knob was covered with a knitted cap, and decorated by strands of grey Job's tears seeds, and the grey, hair-like feathers of the cassowary. The bone on some of these had a fine patina, and some were etched. One of the knives, brown and coarse, was made from the jawbone of a crocodile. When we emerged from the hut, Linda was still surrounded by eager sellers, so we took our boat a short way downstream to the other bachelors' hut. Here the men showed us some really awful carvings, which we rejected politely, and one quite nice stylized ancestor figure, which we bought immediateOpposite: Late afternoon high tide at Biwar Laut. At low tide this river disappears.

VISITING THE AS MAT 16 3 ly. There were also some spears for sale. Using a wooden mallet and chisel, a man was sculpting the projecting prowhead of a new canoe. Several almost complete canoes were lying around, awaiting finishing touches. Out of nowhere, an Asmat man in a safari suit demanded peremptorily to see our travel permits. Until this unpleasant chap came around (nobody else seemed to like him much, either) everyone had been friendly, all smiles and cooperation for our photos, and happy to smoke a cigarette and tell us about their village. Not interested in being pushed around by this petty officer, I told him in Indonesian to go take his grievance up with our Uzi-packing policeman. He disappeared as quickly as he had made his entrance. Amborep: modern town When Linda finished her purchases we continued on the Powet River to where it met the Siretsj, at Amborep (pop. 738). This place had a much more "modern" look than Warse, with better walkways, several outhouses and not a jeu in sight. The people of this village, involved for two decades in lumbering activities, moved their village to its present site in 1973. A year after settling in, Amborep held a bisj festival, the first one allowed by the government after it rescinded its ban on large feasts and ceremonies. But we saw little evidence of traditional life at Amborep and the crafted items the men showed us were not appealing. We pushed off, crossed the Siretsj and took a small river south, to the wide Betsj River. A large village stood around the first bend. Atsj: woodcarving center The village of Atsj Catch") is the largest in the Asmat region, with more than 2,000 people. (Note: Indonesianization of the spelling has led to "Atsy," which has in turn prompted an Indonesian pronunciation, "at-see.") Atsj is a lumber center with a small sawmill and numerous tin-roofed houses. The boardwalks here are in better repair than those in Agats. The many Bugis and Javanese living here give it a non-Asmat look. We had coffee, cookies and an instant-noodle lunch at the home of the local policeman, an affable man who keeps crocodiles in his back yard. We then walked over to watch the woodcarvers, as Atsj is a well-known carving center. The items produced here are of a new style that began with the introduction of pitsaws and hardwood planks. Called ajour, these are openwork sculptures taken from a single board of Intsia wood. This style has evolved, and several men were working on small ancestor poles, miniature bisj of hardwood. All the hardwood figures are for the tourist market. These figures are occasionally sold to passing tourists for $25 or more, but the bulk of the production goes to Bugis merchants, who pay some $10-$12 per piece.

1 6 4 THE ASMAT REGION Each takes about 18-20 hours to carve, but it is not hard work. Although we have seen nice modern hardwood carvings in the museum, none of those we saw here was very good. We were rather disappointed with the place. Then a distinguished looking man came up and introduced himself as Ari Markus, the chief of Biwar Laut village. He needed a ride back home, and thought we might like to witness a jeu pokmbu, the festival to dedicate a new jeu. Of course, we accepted his offer immediately. In less than an hour we were pulling up to Biwar Laut. As soon as the engine shut down, we knew we had made the right move. Biwar Laut: the new jeu We could hear drumming and singing coming out of the jeu, perched on a forest of stilts, 10 meters back from the bank of the small Jiwe river. The new jeu was decorated with a fringe of leaf strips from the top of the front porch area running the length of the building. Canoe paddles, each covered with a sheath of white cockatoo feathers, projected from the roof, giving it a festive appearance. We walked up a plank to the narrow front porch. We could hear the drumming and singing from the river, but entering one of the doorways, we were immediately struck by the scene. A couple of the men glanced up at us, but everyone went about the ritual without paying attention to the three white persons who had just entered. I asked Ari Markus, who had followed us into the jeu, if photography was allowed, and he said I was welcome to take as many as I liked. I went about my work with glee. David's flash self-destructed after one pop, so I even had a willing assistant. No one minded as I stepped around seated men and wormed my way to good shooting angles. Some shifted to let me through, others turned slightly so I could have a better shot. After I worked my way through a couple of rolls, I could no longer contain my joy. As a song ended with its fast drum rhythm, I too danced the wigglykneed Asmat Charleston, to roars of approving laughter. At dusk, the singing ended, and the men went home for supper. Markus invited us to spend the night in the jeu and disappeared into the night. We settled on the front porch and ate some noodles and sardines with Amhier, washed down with coffee. As we commented on the day's events, men came out of the darkness, entered the jeu, then shyly approached us from nearby doorways to offer seed necklaces, knives and a few drums for sale. As Linda was doing the buying, she became the focus of attention, leaving us to chat with out hosts. One man was particularly talkative. This was Mohammed, an Asmat from Biwar Laut who had converted to Islam during a long stay in Ternate. Feeling like a bit of an outsider himself, perhaps he needed to talk to the outsiders. The drumming and singing resumed after dinner, this time around a fire in front of the jeu. Just a few diehards kept up the tradition of all-night drumming (and this was the second day of the festival). Eventually we retired to the jeu, listened to the BBC and drifted ofi to sleep on the springy bark and branch floor. When we awoke around 5 a.m., the drumming was much louder, and a quick glance outside revealed a full complement of men and boys in the faint pre-dawn light. Soon after, the playing stopped. The inauguration of the jeu had been completed. A muddy morning When we walked over to the river, we were shocked. The wide stream we had come in on was reduced to a trough of mud, with barely a trickle down the middle. As we drank our morning coffee, Ari Markus came by, and I asked him if we could hire ten of his men to paddle one of the large canoes for photographs. We bargained a bit and settled on $3 per man for a quick run.

VISITING THE AS MAT In an hour or two, as a thin stream was forming between the mudbanks, women set out for a morning's fishing in Siretsj River. A little later, as the water rose a bit more, two elderly women worked their way upstream, a large net between them, hung from an oval wooden frame. An occasional small fish, coming inland to forage with the tide, ended up in their woven bag. Soon the men appeared and began preparations for the paddling session. For the sake of recreating the atmosphere of a head-hunting war party, I had them cover their shorts with grass skirts. (Some of these, ironically, were of the type worn by women.) In the good old days, men set forth for battle stark naked, but resplendent in personal adornments—clam-shell nose ornaments, dogs' teeth necklaces, cuscus hats, mother-ofpearl forehead pieces. With all their accouterments in place, the men began to paint each other with lime (from burned clamshells) and orange powder (from ocherous mud). The men were ready to set forth into battle. The river had risen, and each man grabbed his long oar and stepped into the canoe. They paddled downstream, and after briefly terrorizing a few boys who were swimming there, turned around and swept back, flashing by the village, presenting a magnificent spectacle of color and power. Otsjanep, Owus and home We left Biwar Laut amidst shouting and farewell waves for our second and last day of village-hopping. Everything that second day was anticlimatic. And damn uncomfortable. As soon as we emerged from the Jiwe River and started crossing the wide mouth of the Siretsj, salt spray started pouring aboard, wetting everything, including our clothes and bodies. An hour and a half later, cold and miserable, we turned into the small Ewta River. A few minutes later we reached Otsjanep. Trees were cut down, and grassy fields 165 Overall, the town has a clean, modern appearance. But the open fields, in the mid afternoon, make it blazingly hot. Otsjanep is a regular stop on the tourist circuit, and song-anddance performances here run $160 a pop. We were rather disappointed, as we had thought that there must be a reason that so many visitors come here. There doesn't seem to be. [Note: Just about everyone who comes to Otsjanep makes some half-witted comment about Michael Rockefeller, and nobody here finds this particularly clever. Please refrain.] As we pulled out to sea from the Ewta River, we wished for Ostjanep's burning sun as we shivered under a constant stream of spray. Ours was not a seagoing craft, and after two hours crossing the wide mouth of the Betsj, and then the Siretsj, we were cranky and soaked with the sticky seawater. The short ride up the narrow river to Owus was a dry, pleasant godsend. The setting here is pleasant enough, with stiltperched huts along the banks of the Bow River. But the town is very tourist-oriented, and seems to be almost owned by one travel agency. We were not even allowed to pull up to the company's dock, and had to scramble ashore over the mud. We were shown a guesthouse, erected especially for tour groups, boasting of twin-attached toilets over the waters. Exclusive or not, we inaugurated the toilets and sped away. At this time, the seas had calmed, and we had a pleasant ride home in the late afternoon sun, catching one of Flamingo Bay's famous sunsets just as we pulled into Agats. Opposite: A man braids armbands on the porch of the brand newjeu at Biwar Laut Above, left: The Ewta River, near Otsjanep, is almost completely overgrown. Above, right: Ten men, paddling in unison, can make a light Asmat dugout fairly leap across the water. Biwar Laut.

166 PRACTICALITIES The Republic of Indonesia is the world's fourth largest country, with 210 million people. The vast majority (88%) are Muslims, making this the world's largest Islamic country. More than 400 languages are spoken, but Bahasa Indonesia, a variant of Malay, is the national language. The nation is a republic, headed by a President, with a 500-member legislature and a 700-member People's Consultative Assembly. There are 26 provinces and special territories. The capital is Jakarta, with 9 million people. The archipelago comprises just over 2 million square km of land. Of 18,508 islands, about 6,000 are named, and 1,000 permanently inhabited. Indonesia's $175 billion gross national product comes from oil, textiles, lumber, mining, agriculture and manufacturing. The country's largest trading partner is Japan. Per capita income is $460. Much of the population still makes a living through agriculture, chiefly rice. The unit of currency is the rupiah, which trades at approximately Rp9,000 to $1 (as of end of 2000). Historical overview. The Buddhist Sriwijaya empire, based in southeastern Sumatra, controlled parts of western Indonesia from the 7th to the 13th centuries. The Hindu Majapahit kingdom, based in eastern Java, controlled even more from the 13th to the 16th centuries. Beginning in the mid-13th century, local rulers began converting to Islam. In the early 17th century the Dutch East India Company (VOC) founded trading settlements and quickly wrested control of the Indies spice trade. The VOC was declared bankrupt in 1799, and a Dutch colonial government was established. Anti-colonial uprisings began in the the early 20th century, when nationalist movements were founded by various Muslim, communist and student groups. Sukarno, a Dutch-educated nationalist, was jailed by the Dutch in 1930. Early in 1942, the Dutch Indies were overrun by the Japanese army. Treatment by the occupiers was harsh. When Japan saw her fortunes waning toward the end of the war, Indonesian nationalists were encouraged to organize. On August 17, 1945, Sukarno proclaimed Indonesia's independence. The Dutch sought a return to colonial rule after the war. Four years of fighting ensued between nationalists and the Dutch, and full independence was achieved in 1949. During the 1950s and early 1960s, President Sukarno's government moved steadily to the left, alienating western governments. On September 30,1965 the army put down an attempted coup attributed to the communist party. Several hundred thousand people were killed as suspected communists. The powers of the presidency gradually shifted away from Sukarno and General Suharto became president in 1968. His administration was friendly to foreign investment and brought about three decades of economic growth. The Asian financial crisis of 1997 and ensuing political turmoil have led the country to its first democratically elected administration in 1999.

CONTENTS 167 On The Road TRAVEL ADVISORY, TRANSPORTATION, PRACTICALITIES The following On The Road sections contain all the practical knowledge you need for your journey. Travel Advisory provides all the non-transport information: facts about Indonesia, from the economy and health precautions to bathroom etiquette. It is followed by a handy language primer. The Transportation section deals exclusively with transportation: getting to Indonesia and traveling in West Papua. The Practicalities sections focus on each destination and have all the local details on transport, accommodation, dining, the arts, trekking, shopping and services, plus maps. These sections are organized by area and correspond to Parts II to VII in the first half of the guide. The margin tabs make cross-referencing simple and fast. Travel Advisory 168 Tourist Information, Visas 168 Health 173 Security, SuratJalan 178 Accommodations 180 Transportation 184 • MAP OF MERPATI ROUTES • MAPOFPELNI ROUTES 186-187 188-189 Indonesian Language Primer 190 Manokwari 200 • MANOKWARI MAP 200 Sorong 202 Fakfak 203 Kokas 204 Kaimana 204 Wamena 205 •WAMENA TOWN MAP 206 Climbing Puncak Jaya 209 Climbing Mt. Trikora 210 Yali Highlands 210 5 limika Practicalites •TIMIKAAREA MAP 212 Kamoro 214 6 Asmat Practicalites •AGATS MAP 2 1 8 7 Merauke Practicalities 4 Highlands Practicalities 205 3 4 1 2 5 6 7

168 PRACTICALITY s Travel Advisory TOURIST INFORMATION Overseas, you can contact the Indonesian embassy or consulate, or one of the following Indonesia Tourist Promotion Board offices: ASEAN & Southeast Asia, 10 Collyer Quay #15-07, Ocean Building, Singapore 0104. « (65) 534-2837, fax: (65) 533-4287. Australia & New Zealand, Level 10, 5 Elizabeth Street, Sydney NSW 2000, Australia. © (612) 233-3630, fax: (61 2) 233-3629, 357-3478. Europe, Wiesenhuttenstrasse 17, D-6000 Frankfurt/Main 1, Germany, s (49 169) 233-677, fax: (49 169) 230-840. Japan & Korea, Sankaido Building, 2nd Floor, 1-9-13 Ahasaka, Minatoku, Tokyo 107. s(8 1 3) 3585-3588, fax: (81 3) 3582-1397. North America , 3457 Wilshire Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90010-2203. n (213) 387-2078, fax: (213) 380-4876. Taiwan & Hong Kong, 66 Sung Chiang Road, 5th Floor, Taipei, Taiwan, s (886 2) 537-7620. Fax: (886 2) 537-7621. United Kingdom, Ireland, Benelux & Scandinavia, 3-4 Hanover Street, London W1R 9HH. «(44 171) 493-0334, fax: (44 171) 493-1747. The Directorate General of Tourism in Jakarta has brochures and maps on all Indonesian provinces: Jl. Kramat Raya 81 , PO Box 409, Jakarta 10450. a- (021) 310-3117/9, fax: (021) 310-1146. Local government tourism offices, Dinas Pariwisata, are generally only good for basic information. More useful assistance is often available from privately run (but government approved) Tourist Information Services. Be aware that many offices calling themselves "Tourist Information" are simply travel agents. The major offices in West Papua are: Department of Tourism, Post and Telecommuication. Jl. Raya Abepura 8, Entrop, Jayapura 99224, «• (0967) 32216, 34843, 34447, fax: (0967) 31519. Dinas Pariwisata, Propinsi Dati I West Papua, Jl. Soa Siu II, Jayapura 99115, « 35923, 33381 ext. 2441-3437. VISAS Nationals of the following 47 countries do not need visas, and are granted visa-free entry for 60 days upon arrival. Argentina Australia Austria Belguim Brazil Brunei Canada Chile Denmark Egypt Finland France Germany Greece Hungary Iceland Ireland Italy Japan Kuwait Philippines Saudi Arabia Singapore South Korea Spain Liechtenstein Sweden Luxembourg Malaysia Maldives Malta Mexico Monaco Morocco Netherlands Switzerland Taiwan Thailand Turkey United Arab Emirates United Kingdom United States New Zealand Venezuela Norway Yugoslavia Be sure to check your passport before leaving for Indonesia. You must have at least one empty page to be stamped upon arrival and the passport must be valid for at least six months after the date of arrival. For visa-free entry, you must also have proof of onward journey, either a return or through ticket. Employment is strictly forbidden on tourist visas or visa-free entry. Visa-free entry to Indonesia cannot be extended beyond two months (60 days) and cannot be converted to any other kind of visa. A visa is required in advance for all other nationals or arrivals at minor ports. Upon arrival you will be given a white embarkation/disembarkation card to fill out. Keep this card with your passport as you must present it when leaving the country. Other Visas The 2-month, non-extendable tourist pass is the only entry permit that comes without a great deal of paperwork. A social visa, usually valid for 4-5 weeks, can be extended for up to 3 months, but is difficult to get. You must have a good reason for spending time in Indonesia (relatives, language study), and you must have a sponsor who will assume financial responsibility for you. The process can take days or even weeks, and extensions are at the discretion of the immigration office where you apply. A business visa requires a letter from a company stating that you are performing a needed service for a company in Indonesia. It is valid for up to one year, but you must leave the country every 4 months. This is not intended as an employment visa, but is for investors, consulV M M

TRAVEL ADVISORY 169 tants, or other business purposes. You are not to earn money in Indonesia on a business visa. Two other types of visas are available: the temporary residence card (KITAS) for research, formal study or employment, and the permanent residence card (KITAP). Both are difficult to get. When dealing with the authorities, be on your best behavior and dress appropriately. The Immigration Office in Jayapura is at Jl. Percetakan #1 5 («(0967 ) 33647). Hours: 9am-3p m Mon-Thurs, til 2:30pm on Fri. Customs Narcotics, firearms and ammunition are strictly prohibited. The standard duty-free allowance is: 2 liters of alcoholic beverages, 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars or 10 0 grams of tobacco. There is no restriction on import and export of foreign currencies in cash or travelers' checks, but there is an export limit of 50,00 0 Indonesian rupiah. All narcotics are illegal in Indonesia. The use, sale or purchase of narcotics results in long prison terms, huge fines and death, in some cases. Once caught, you are immediately placed in detention until trial, and the sentences are stiff, as demonstrated by Westerners currently serving sentences as long as 3 0 years for possession of marijuana. All foriegn embassies are in Jakarta: Australia Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said, Kav. C/15-16, *r 522-7111. Austria Jl. P. Diponegoro No. 44, s 338-090. Belgium Jl. Jend. Sudirman , Kav. 22-23 , *? 5712180. Brunei Darussalam Jl. Jend. Sudirman, Kav. 22-23, s 571-2180. Canada Wisma Metropolitan 1,15th Floor, Jl. Jend. Sudirman, Kav. 29, s- 525-0709. China Jl. Jend. Sudirman, Kav. 69, s 714-596. Denmark Bina Mulia Bldg., 4th Floor, Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said, Kav. 10, -BP 520-4350. Finland Bina Mulia Bldg., 10th Floor, Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said, Kav. 10, -zr 516-980. France Jl. M.H. Thamrin No. 20, -a 314-2807. Germany Jl. Raden Saleh 54-56, 's 384-9547. Greece Jl. Kebon Sirih No. 16, ^ 360-623. India Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said No. S-l, s 520-4150. Italy Jl. Diponegoro 45, •BP 337-445. Japan Jl. M.H. Thamrin No. 24, -ST 324-308 Malaysia Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said Kav. X/6/1-3, s 522-4947. Myanmar Jl. H. Agus Salim No. 109, S- 314-0440. Mexico Wisma Nusantara, 4th Floor, Jl. M.H. Thamrin No. 59, -E? 337-479. Netherlands Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said, Kav. S-3, -a 511515. New Zealand Jl. Diponegoro No. 41 , s 330-680. Norway Bina Mulia Bldg. I, 4th Floor, Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said, Kav. 10, s 525-1990. Pakistan Jl.Teuku Umar No. 50, TP 314-4009. Papua New Guinea Pan in Bank Centre 6th Floor, Jl. Jend. Sudirman No. 1 , s 725-1218. Philippines Jl. Imam Bonjol No. 6-8, ^ 314-9329. Singapore Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said, Block X Kav. 2, No. 4, ^520-1489. South Korea Jl. Gatot Subroto, Kav. 57-58, -a 5201915. Spain Jl. Agus Salim No. 61 , -sr 331-414. Sweden Bina Mulia Bldg. I, Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said, Kav. 10, s 520-1551. Switzerland Jl. H.R.Rasuna Said B-l, Kav. 10/32, •Z? 516-061 . Thailand Jl. Imam Bonjol No.74, ^390-4055 . United Kingdom Jl. M.H. Thamrin No.75, -a 330904. United States of America Jl. Medan Merdeka Selatan No. 5, s 360-360. Vietnam Jl. Teuku Umar No. 25, ^ 310-0357. Passport Loss If you lose your passport, it will be difficult to get new documents to leave the country unless you have the proper official forms from the police. Always keep a photocopy of your passport, visa and driver's license separate from the originals. You can then prove your identity in case of theft or loss. When theft occurs, report to your consulate. Verification of your identity and citizenship takes two or three weeks and involves going to the immigration office in Jayapura. When packing, keep in mind that you will be in the tropics, but that it can get cold in the mountains. Bring wash-and-wear, light cotton clothes that absorb perpiration. (Synthetic fabrics are really uncomfortable in the tropics.) A mediumweight sweater or wind breaker is also a must, as is a light rain jacket with a hood. For cold nights in the highlands, you may even want to bring long underwear. Suits and ties are almost never worn. Tennis shoes are fine for basic footwear, but for hiking you will need sturdy shoes or boots (depending on the difficulty of the trek). Bring a pair that is already broken in. Also, bring a cap to keep the sun off during long boat rides or walks. If you plan on trekking, bring a sleeping bag and leather gloves. Don't bring too much, as you will be tempted by the great variety of inexpensive clothes available here. If you visit a government office, men should wear long trousers, shoes and a shirt with collar. Women should wear a neat dress, covering knees and shoulders, and shoes. For those wanting to travel light, a sarong purchased upon arrival in Indonesia ($5-10) is one of the most versatile items you could hope for. It serves as a wrap to get to the bath, a beach

170 PRACTICALITIES towel, pajamas, bed sheet, fast drying towel, etc. Indonesians are renowned for their ability to sleep anytime, anywhere; so they are not likely to understand your desire for peace and quiet at night. Sponge rubber earplugs are available from pharmacies in the West or from the in-flight airline toiletry kit. Many consider them the most important 4 grams they carry. Tiny padlocks for use on luggage zippers are a handy deterrent to pilfering hands. Some come with combination locks. Flashlights may come in handy, although these can be easily purchased locally. Bring along some pre-packaged alcohol towelettes (swabs). These are handy for disinfecting your hands before eating, or after a trip to the kamar kecil (lavatory). West Papua has no Western-style department stores, so for things like contact lens solutions, dental floss, tampons, sunscreen, and insect repellent, if you think you might need them, pack them. Passport photos may come in handy for applications/permits (for parks) or even as gifts. On your travels you will meet people who are kind and helpful, yet you may feel too embarrassed to give money. In this kind of situation a small gift is appropriate. Chocolates, cookies, pens, stationery from your hotel, even your Tshirtwith foreign designs are appreciated. | CLIMATE In general, Indonesia experiences two yearly seasons of monsoon winds: the southeast monsoon, bringing dry weather (musim panas—dry season), and the northwest monsoon, bringing rain {musim hujan—rainy season). Often the changing seasons can bring the time of high waves {musim ombak). The rainy season is normally November to April, with a peak around January/February, when it rains for several hours each day. The rain is predictable, however, and always stops for a time, when the sun may come out. Before it rains, the air gets very sticky; afterwards it is refreshingly cool. The dry season, May to October, is a better time to come, and especially June to August. This is the time to climb mountains or visit nature reserves; when wild bulls go in search of water and sea turtles lay eggs more often. Due to West Papua's mountainous body, the climate is tropical, but is subject to a great deal of variation. Basically, however, temperatures drop one degree centigrade with every 100 meter rise in elevation. In general, lowland temperatures fluctuate around a mean of 27°C, with an annual range seldom exceeding 8°C. In the mountains it can go as low as 5°C. Humidity varies but is always high, between 60% and 100%. As a general rule, expect hot and muggy climates on the coasts and pleasant days and cool (even cold) nights in the highlands. Variations from this are more a matter of luck than careful planning, especially on the north coast, which is rainy, but has no real season. The seas are more predictable. July and August are the best times to navigate off the north coast. January to March and June to October are the dangerous months for sailing off the south coast. Tides in Indonesia average between one and three meters. The only place in the country with really big tidal fluctuations is the south coast of West Papua, where the shallow Arafura Sea rises and falls 5 meters or more. ! WHEN TO TRAVEL The best time to visit West Papua is during the dry season, April to September. Humidity is down and nights can be cool. Parts of the province are inaccessible during the rainy season and flights are even more unreliable. PLANNING A TRIP TO WEST PAPUA The good old days of encountering spears and deadly diseases as you hack your way through the New Guinea jungle are over. You will not see any cannibal feasts. There are still a few small groups of people living in the Mamberamo basin and between the highlands and the south coast swamps that have not been contacted by outsiders, but it is unlikely you will meet them. None of this, however, means West Papua is now Bali. It is a huge, beautiful, out-of-the way place like no other in the world. One-fifth of the world's languages are spoken here. The cultural differences between, say, the Dani in the highlands and the Asmat of the south coast are vast. The island's wildlife is among the most interesting on the planet and, perhaps, the least welldescribed. Much of West Papua still remains impassable. The government's road-building program is ambitious, but so far the whole province—half of the second-largest island in the world—has about as many miles of road as a mediumsized Los Angeles sub-division. Travel here means flying in on relatively small airplanes and walking from there. Some of the regions are inaccessible to travelers for political reasons and a lack of tourist infrastructure: the area around the Paniai Lakes and Enarotali, for example, or parts of the Bird's Head peninsula. This book concentrates on the most interesting and most accessible places. It is impossible to describe in detail (within a budget a publisher would accept) an area as large as West Papua. Planning a trip to West Papua requires time, patience and a healthy respect for Murphy's Law

TRAVEL ADVISORY 1 7 1 (which should be renamed Merpati's Law here). That is, if anything can go wrong, it will. Do not try and see the province in 5 days. All trips to West Papua start and end with an obligatory overnight in either Biak or Jayapura, and flights are often delayed for several days. Or, it can be 2 weeks between boats if there's a cancellation. So be prepared and don't plan a tight schedule. Everyone traveling to West Papua should fly to Wamena and spend at least a few days in the Baliem Valley. The temperate climate, the stunning scenery, and the hospitality of the Dani are not to be missed. Right in Wamena, the administrative center of the valley, there are more traditional (non-Christian) villages than in the further outlying parts of the valley. A more adventurous trip would be to visit the Asmat and Kamoro lands of the south coast, although transportation is unreliable, and it is nowhere nearly as inviting a place as the Baliem Valley. If you think mud, salt, humidity, and the lack of anything except basic services will dampen your enthusiasm, then they probably will. On the other hand, this may just whet your appetite to be one of the mere handful of people who visit these fascinating places each year. If you are traveling independently, plan on a week to 10 days to see the Jayapura area and Wamena, a minimum of 2 weeks to add on a side-trip (Manokwari, Merauke, Biak) and 3 or more weeks to explore remote areas (Asmat area, offshore islands, conservation areas). It is not unusual for visitors to spend 4-6 weeks in West Papua and still see only a very small part. Tour agencies move at a quicker pace. If you are pressed for time, you may do better to sign on with one and let someone else take care of all the arrangements. Please arrive with the mindset that roads will be rough, accommodations will be rustic and everything will take twice as long as you expect. Let your mind be free to take in the wonders of West Papua. TIME ZONES West Papua is on Eastern Indonesian Standard Time, the most easterly of Indonesia's three time zones, which is Greenwich mean time + 9 hours. MONEY Prices quoted in this book (in US dollars) are intended as a general indication. Since the rupiah's freefall beginning in July 1997 until the printing of this edition, the financial situation in unstable and rates and prices change daily. The rate used in this edition is Rp9,000/US$l. Standard currency is the Indonesian rupiah: Notes come in 100,000, 50,000, 20,000, 10,000, 5,000, 1,000, 500 and 100 denominations. Coins come in denominations of 1,000, 500,100, and 50 rupiah. Unfortunately, some of the coins are very similar in size, so look carefully. In stores small change is often replaced by candies. Banking It is best to carry travelers' checks of two leading companies as sometimes, for mysterious reasons, a bank won't cash the checks of a company as well-known as, say, American Express. U.S. dollars—checks and cash—are accepted in all banks which deal in foreign exchange, as are Australian dollars and (usually) Japanese yen, Deutsche marks, and French and Swiss francs. Carrying cash is not a good idea. Aside from the possible loss, banks won't take the bills unless they are in perfect condition. Rates in Jayapura are about 5-7% better than in Wamena. Moneychangers and banks accepting foreign currency are found in most tourist areas. Banks are open from 8am-3pm, Monday to Friday. The bank counters at major airports offer competitive rates. Bank lines in town can be long and slow; the best way around it is to arrive promptly at opening time. Get a supply of Rpl,000 and Rp500 notes when you change money, as taxi drivers and vendors often have—or claim to have— no change for big bills. When traveling in the countryside, RplOO notes are also useful. Carrying cash (US$) can be a handy safety precaution as it is still exchangeable should you lose your passport, but Indonesian banks only accept foreign currency that is crisp and clean. Major credit cards may be accepted in some shops and hotels, but they often add a 3% surcharge. Most cities have at least one bank at which cash advances can be made—look for Bank Duta, BCA and Danamon. Visa and MasterCard are the most frequently accepted. There are no exchange controls and excess rupiah (bills only) can be freely reconverted at the airport. Tax, Service and Tipping Most larger hotels and restaurants charge 21 % tax and service on top of your bill. Tipping is not a custom here, but it is appreciated for special services. Rp500 per bag is considered a good tip for roomboys and porters. Taxi drivers will want to round up to the nearest Rp 500 or Rp 1,000. When tipping the driver of your rental car or a pembantu (housekeeper) of the house in which you've been a guest, fold the money and give it with the right hand only. i OFFICE HOURS Government offices (except those in Jakarta which run on a five-day work week) are officially open Monday to Thursday, 8 am to 3 pm, Fri-

172 PRACTICALITIES day until 11 am and Saturday until 1 pm, but if you want to get anything done, be there by 11am. In large cities most private businesses are open 9 am to 5 pm. Shops from 9 am to 9 pm. In smaller towns shops close for a siesta at 1 pm and reopen at 6 pm. COMMUNICATIONS Mail Indonesia's postal service is reliable, if not terribly fast. K/'/at express service is only slightly more expensive and much faster. Kilat khusus (domestic special delivery) will get there overnight. International express mail gets postcards and letters to North America or Europe in about 7 days from most cities. Kantorpos (post offices) are in every little village, open 8am-8pm daily except Sunday. Hotels will normally sell stamps and post letters for you, or you can use private postal agents to avoid hassles. Look for the orange Agen Kantor Pos (postal agency) signs. Telephone and Fax Long distance phone calls, both within Indonesia and international, are handled by satellite. Domestic long distance calls can be dialed from most phones. To dial your own international calls, find an IDD (International Direct Dial) phone and dial "001 " or "008," otherwise you must go via the operator, which is far more expensive. A magnetic debit (kartu telpon) phone card can be purchased at hotels, post offices and many other outlets. This is used on card phones which are increasing in popularity, eliminating the need for small change. If your hotel has no IDD link you have to go to the main telephone office (kantor telepon), use a silver card phone (kartu telpon) and pay an uninflated rate or use a private postal and telephone service: Wartel (warung telekommunikasi)/warpostel/warparpostel. These small "telecom shops" are all over Indonesia and fast becoming the most convenient way to call international (you avoid hotel price hikes). They are often run by well-trained, efficient staff and offer fast IDD services at near standard rates. Open daily from 8am to 10pm or 11pm. Prices per minute are about $2.30 to the Americas and $3.10 to most European countries. Night rates are lower. International calls via MCI, Sprint, ATT, and the like can be made from IDD phones using the access code for your calling card company. Recently, special telephones have been installed in Indonesia's airports with pre-programmed buttons to connect you via these companies to various countries. Faxes and can be sent and received at wartel offices and most main post offices. Telephone Codes From outside Indonesia, the following cities may be reached by dialing 62 (the country code for Indonesia) then the city code, then the number. Within Indonesia, the city code must be preceded by a 0 (zero). Ambon 911 Mataram 364 Balikpapan 542 Medan 61 Banda Aceh 651 Merauke 971 Bandar Metro 725 Lampung 721 Mojokerto 321 Bandung 22 Nusa Dua 361 Banjarmasin 511 Padang 751 Banyuwangi 333 Palangkaraya 514 Batam 778 Palembang 711 Belawan 619 Palu 451 Bengkulu 736 Pare-Pare 421 Biak 961 Pasuruan 343 Binjai 619 Pati 295 Blitar 342 Pekalongan 285 Bogor 251 Pekanbaru 761 Bojonegoro 353 PematangBondowoso 332 siantar 622 Bukittinggi 752 Ponorogo 352 Cianjur 263 Pontianak 561 Cilacap 282 Parapat 625 Cipanas 255 Probolinggo 335 Cirebon 231 Purwakarta 264 Cisarua 251 Purwokerto 281 Denpasar 361 Sabang 652 Gadog 251 Salatiga 298 Garut 262 Samarinda 541 Gresik 31 Sekupang 778 Jakarta 21 Semarang 24 Jambi 741 Serang 254 Jember 331 Sibolga 731 Jombang 321 Sidoarjo 319 Kabanjahe 628 Sigli 653 Karawang 267 Situbondo 338 Kebumen 287 Solo 271 Kediri 354 Sorong 951 Kendal 294 Sukabumi 266 Kendari 401 Sumbawa Klaten 272 Besar 371 Kota Pinang 624 Sumedang 261 Kotabaru 518 Surabaya 31 Kutacane 629 Tangerang 21 Kuala Simpang 641 Tapak Tuan 656 Kudus 291 Tarakan 551 Kupang 391 Tasikmalaya 265 Lahat 731 Tebing Tinggi LhokSeumawe 645 Deli 621 Lumajang 334 Ternate 921 Madiun 351 TulungAgung 355 Magelang 293 Ujung Pandang 411 Malang 341 Wates 274 Manado 431 Wonosobo 286 Manokwari 962 Yogyakarta 274

TRAVEL ADVISORY 1 7 3 E-mail E-mail and internet services are available at many wartel, the main post office and an increasing number of cyber cafes. Courier Services Some of the big international courier outfits operate in Indonesia, along with some domestic ones. DHL Worldwide Express and Elteha International are probably the most reliable here. Elteha International Jl. Pembangunan, Jayapura, «(0967) 31527, 33261. DHL, Jl. Ardipura I, No. 49, Polimak, -^(0967) 31158; fax: (0967)32329. (Polimak is halfway between Jayapura and Abepura.) \ ELECTRICITY Most of Indonesia has converted to 220 volts and 50 cycles, though a few places are still on the old 110 lines. Ask before you plug in if your are uncertain. Power failures are common in smaller cities and towns. Voltage can fluctuate considerably so use a stabilizer for computers and similar equipment. Plugs are of the European two-pronged variety. Before You Go Check with your physician for the latest news on the need for malaria prophylaxis and recommended vaccinations before leaving home. Frequently considered vaccines are: Diphtheria, Pertussis and Tetanus (DPT); Measles, Mumps and Rubella (MMR); and oral Polio vaccine. Gamma Globulin every four months for Hepatitis A is recommended. For longer stays many doctors recommend vaccination to protect against Hepatitis B, requiring a series of shots over the course of 7 months. Vaccinations for smallpox and cholera are no longer required, except for visitors coming from infected areas. A cholera vaccination is recommended for travel in outlying areas, but it is only 50% effective. Find out the generic names for whatever prescription medications you are likely to need as most are available in Indonesia but not under the same brand names as they are known at home. Get copies of doctors' prescriptions for the medications you bring into Indonesia to avoid questions at the customs desk. Those who wear spectacles should bring along prescriptions. First Aid Kit A basic first aid kit should consist of aspirin and multivitamins, a decongestant, an antihistamine, disinfectant (such as Betadine), antibiotic powder, fungicide, an antibiotic eyewash, Kaopectate or Lomotil, and sunscreen. Also good strong soap, perhaps Betadine or other antiseptic soap. Avoid oral antibiotics unless you know how to use them. For injuries, make up a little kit containing Band-aids and ectoplast strips, a roll of sterile gauze and treated gauze for burns, surgical tape, and an elastic bandage for sprains. Also very important are Q-tips, tweezers, scissors, needles and safety pins. Keep your pills and liquid medicines in small unbreakable plastic bottles, clearly labeled with indelible pen. Hygiene Hygiene cannot be taken for granted in Indonesia. Away from the tourist areas few places have running water or sewerage. Most water comes from wells, and raw sewerage goes into the ground or the rivers. Tap water is not potable and must be boiled. Most cases of stomach complaints are attributable to your system not being used to the strange foods and stray bacteria. To make sure you do not get something more serious, take the following precautions: ( «" Never drink unboiled water from a well, tap or bak mandi (bath tub). Brush your teeth only with boiled or bottled water, never with water from the tap or bak mandi. Bottled water is available everywhere and usually called "Aqua", which is the most popular and reliable brand name. <•* Ice is made in government regulated factories and is deemed safe for local immunities. Confirm that the ice is made from boiled water before relaxing with an ice drink. «•* Plates, glasses and silverware are washed in unboiled water and must be completely dry before use. «•* Fruits and vegetables without skins pose a higher risk of contamination. To avoid contamination by food handlers, buy fruits in the market and peel them yourself. «** To mandi (bathe) two or three times a day is a great way to stay cool and fresh. Be sure to dry yourself off well; you may wish to apply a medicated body powder, such as Purol, to avoid the unpleasantness of skin fungus, especially during the rainy season from November to April. Exposure Many visitors insist on instant sun tans, so overexposure to the heat and sun are frequent health problems. Be especially careful on long boat rides where the roof gives a good view. The cooling wind created by the boat's motion disguises the fact that you are frying like an egg. Wear a hat, loose-fitting, light-colored, longsleeved cotton clothes, pants, and use a goodquality sunscreen (bring a supply with you). Do not wear synthetic fibers that do not allow air to circulate. Tan slowly—don't spoil your trip.

174 PRACTICALITIES Drink plenty of fluids and take salt. Cuts and Scrapes Your skin will come into contact with more dirt and bacteria than it did back home, so wash your face and hands more often. Cuts should be taken seriously and cleaned with an antiseptic like Betadine or Dettol, available from any pharmacy (apotik). Once clean, antibiotic powder (Sulfanilamide) or ointment, both available locally, should be applied. Cover the cut during the day to keep it clean, but leave it uncovered at night and whenever you are resting so that it can dry. Constant covering will retain moisture in the wound and only encourage an infection. Repeat this ritual after every bath. Areas of redness around the cut indicate infection and a doctor should be consulted. At the first sign of swelling it is advisable to take broad spectrum antibiotics to prevent a really nasty infection. Not every mosquito bite leads to malaria, but in the tropics a scratched bite or small abrasion can quickly turn into a festering ulcer. You must pay special attention to these things. Apply calamine solution or Tiger Balm—a widely available camphorated salve—or some imitation thereof to relieve the itching. For light burns, use Aristamide or Bioplacenteron. Diarrhea A likely traveling companion. In addition to the strange food and unfamiliar micro-fauna, diarrhea is often the result of attempting to accomplish too much in one day. Taking it easy can be an effective prevention. Ask before leaving home what the latest and greatest of the many remedies are and bring some along. Imodium is locally available as are activated carbon tablets (Norit) that will absorb the toxins giving you grief. When it hits, it is usually self-limiting to two or three days. Relax, take it easy and drink lots of fluids, perhaps accompanied by rehydration salts such as Servidrat (local brands are Oralit and Pharolit). Especially helpful is water from the young coconut {air kelapa muda) or strong, unsweetened tea. The former is an especially pure anti-toxin. Get it straight from the coconut without sugar, ice or food color added. When you are ready, bananas, papayas, plain rice, crackers or dry biscuits, and bubur(nce porridge) are a good way to start. Avoid fried, spicy or heavy foods and dairy products for a while. After three days without relief, see a doctor. Not all bouts of diarrhea mean dysentery. If you contract the latter, which is much more serious, you must seek medical help. Do this if your stools are mixed with blood and pus, are black, or you are experiencing severe stomach cramps and fever. If no medical help is available, try tetracycline and Diatab, effective for bacillary dysentery. If you feel no relief in a day or two, you have the more serious amoebic dysentery which requires additional medication. To prevent stomach problems, try to eat only thoroughly cooked foods, don't buy already peeled fruit, and stay away from unpasteurized dairy products. For constipation, eat a lot of fruit. Intestinal Parasites It is estimated that 80 to 90 percent of all people in Indonesia have intestinal parasites and these are easily passed on by food handlers. Prevention is difficult, short of fasting when away from luxury hotel restaurants, and even this is no guarantee. It's best to take care of parasites sooner rather than later, by routinely taking a dose of anti-parasite medicine such as Kombatrin (available at all apotik) once a month during your stay and again when you get on the plane home. If you still have problems when you get back, even if only sporadically, have stool and blood tests. Left untreated, parasites can cause serious damage. Mosquito-borne Diseases Malaria is a problem in most parts of West Papua. It is worse along the coasts, particularly where it is swampy. It is much less of a problem in the highlands (although, the oft-heard rule of thumb that malarial mosquitos do not live at altitudes higher than 500 meters is simply not correct. People have gotten malaria in Wamena, at 1,500 meters). The disease accounts for some 18 percent of the province's total mortality, and is nothing to be irresponsible about. Malaria is caused by a protozoan, Plasmodium, which affects the blood and liver. The vector for this parasite is the Anopheles mosquito. After contracting malaria, it takes a minimum of six days—or up to several years—before symptoms appear. If you are visiting West Papua, you mast take malaria pills. Do not think that pills offer complete protection, however, as they don't. If you are pregnant, have had a splenectomy or have a weak immune system, or suffer from chronic disease, you should weigh carefully whether the trip is worth the risk. Chloroquine phosphate is the traditional malaria prophylactic, but in the past 10-15 years, the effectiveness of the drug has deteriorated. Deciding on an appropriate anti-malarial is now more complicated. There are actually four forms of malaria: Plasmodium vivax, which is unpleasant and can lie dormant for 50 years or more, but is rarely fatal to healthy adults; P. melariae, which is the least serious variant; P. ovale, which is rare in Indonesia; and P. falciparum, which can be quickly fatal. P. falciparum is dominant in parts of Indonesia, including West Papua. fnrw

TRAVEL ADVISORY 175 Malaria pills. As a prophylactic for travel, take two tablets of Chloroquine (both on the same day) once a week, and one tablet of Maloprim (pyrimethamine) once a week. Maloprim is a strong drug, and not everybody can tolerate it. If you are planning on taking Maloprim for more than two months, it is recommended that you take a folic acid supplement, 6 mg a day, to guard against anemia. [Note: The anti-malarial drugs only work once the protozoan has emerged from the liver, which can be weeks after your return. You should continue on the above regimen for one month after returning.] There is now widespread resistance to Chloroquine in West Papua. Mefloquin (such as Larium) seems to be the most commonly used prophylaxis now. It has been shown effective, although unpleasant side effects have been demonstrated for it as well. Mefloquine is also very expensive, about $3 a tablet. However, it can be a lifesaver in cases of resistant falciparum infection. These drugs are not available over-the-counter in most western countries (or, indeed, even behind the counter at most pharmacies), and if you visit a doctor, you may have trouble convincing him of what you need. Doctors in the temperate zones are not usually familiar with tropical diseases, and may even downplay the need to guard against them. Do not be persuaded. Try to find a doctor who has had experience in these matters. You can also buy Chloroquine and Maloprim over-the-counter in Indonesia, for very little (a few dollars for a month's supply). Maloprim, however, may still be difficult to find. [Note: there is a non-chloroquine-based drug sold in Indonesia called Fansidar. This drug is not effective against the resistant strains of P. falciparum and not for use as a prophylaxis.] The antibiotic Doxycycline can also be used as a prophylaxis for short-term stays (2-6 weeks): 100 mg. once a day with food, starting 2 days before arrival and continued through 4 days after departure of the malarious area. Treatment. Malaria in the early stages is very hard to distinguish from a common cold or flu. A person infected may just suffer from headache and nausea, perhaps accompanied by a slight fever and achiness, for as long as a week until the disease takes hold. When it does, the classic symptoms begin: 1) Feeling of intense cold, sometimes accompanied by shaking. This stage lasts from 30 minutes to two hours. 2) High fever begins, and victim feels hot and dry, and may vomit or even become delirious. This lasts 4-5 hours. 3) Sweating stage begins, during which the victim perspires very heavily, and his body temperature begins to drop. The classic fever/chill pattern is more likely to occur with people who are not taking prophylaxis. Those on a prophylaxis will have stronger "flu" symptoms (aches, nausea, headache). If you think you have malaria, you should call on professional medical help immediately. A good medical professional is your best first aid. Only if you cannot get help, initiate the following treatment: 1) Take 4 Chloroquine tablets immediately. 2) 6 hours later, take 2 more Chloroquine tablets. 3) The next day, take 2 more. 4) The following day, take 2 more. Note: If the Chloroquine treatment does not cause the fever to break within 24 hours, assume the infection is the very dangerous P. falciparum and begin the following treatment immediately: 1) Take 3 tablets (750 mg) of Mefloquine (Larium) 2) Six hours later, take 2 more tablets (500 mg) of Mefloquine. 3) After 12 hours—and only if you weigh 60 kg (130 lbs) or more—take one more tablet (250 mg) of Mefloquine. The other mosquito concern is dengue fever, spread by the morning-biting Aedes aegypti, especially during the rainy season. The most effective prevention is not getting bitten (there is no prophylaxis for dengue). Dengue fever symptoms are headache, pain behind the eyes, high fever, muscle and joint pains and rash appearing between the third and fifth days of illness. Within days, the fever subsides and recovery is seldom hampered with complications. The more serious variant, dengue haemorrhagic fever (DHF), which can be fatal, may be the reaction of a secondary infection with remaining immunities following a primary attack. Cases of Japanese encephalitis, a viral infection affecting the brain, have occured recently and are added cause to take protective measures against mosquito bites. Prevention. Malaria, dengue fever, and Japanese encephalitis are carried by mosquitos. If you don't get bit, you don't get the diseases. 1) While walking around, use a good quality mosquito repellent, and be very generous with it, particularly around your ankles. Wear lightcolored, long-sleeved shirts or blouses and long pants. (Effective insect repellent is very hard to find in West Papua, so bring some from home.) Any chemical repellent containing deet (diethyl toluamide) should be applied with caution and never to the face. Application to clothing can be more effective. A local non-chemical solution is citronella mixed with eucalyptus oil {minyak gosok, cap tawon). 2) While eating or relaxing in one spot, burn mosquito coils. These are those green, slightly brittle coils of incense doped with pyrethrin that were banned in the United States some years ago. They last 6-8 hours and are quite ef-

1 7 6 PRACTICALITIES fective. You will get used to the smell. (If you are worried about inhaling some of the poison they contain, re-read the classic symptoms of malaria above.) In Indonesia, the ubiquitous coils are called obat nyamuk bakar. Double Rabbit is one of the more reliable brands. (There are brands which do not contain pyrethum, so are ineffective.) In some places where there is electricity, there is a smokeless repellent with a similar ingredient that is inserted into a unit plugged into the wall. 3) While sleeping, burn obat nyamuk and use a mosquito net. Some hotels have nets, but not many, and you should bring your own. If you set a couple of obat nyamuk coils going in strategic places when you go to sleep you will be protected. Remember that mosquitos like damp bathrooms—where few people bother to light a mosquito coil. AIDS & Hepatitis B Surprise! Safe sex is a good idea. West Papua has the second highest rate of AIDS/HIV infection in Indonesia. Documentation, awareness and education are just beginning. Another area of concern is the Hepatitis B virus which affects liver function and is only sometimes curable and can be fatal. The prevalence of Hepatitis B in Indonesia is the basis for international concern over the ominous possibilities for the spread of the HIV virus, which is passed on in the same ways. Medical Treatment Pharmacies—apotik—in Jayapura carry just about everything you might need. You can readily get malaria pills here, and an excellent antibacterial ointment called Bacitran. Tiger Balm is available everywhere in Asia, and it is excellent for itching bites and muscles pains from hiking or carrying a back pack. Mycolog is a brand of fungicide sold in Indonesia. Oral rehydration salts are usually sold in packets to be mixed with 200 ml of (clean) water. Outside Jayapura and the other larger cities, it's nearly impossible to purchase medicines or first aid supplies. In the larger towns, especially Jayapura, there are decent government hospitals {rumah sakit) and medicines are widely available. Smaller villages only have government clinics {puskesmas), which are not equipped to deal with anything serious. Your hotel or losmen will probably be able to find you a doctor who speaks English. The highlands aren't this developed. Like anywhere in the world, medical facilities decline in direct proportion to the distance from urban centers. Missionaries are usually equipped for medical emergencies—but at least pay for whatever medication/help you receive from them. Doctors and health care are quite inexpensive by western standards, but the quality leaves much to be desired. (At least they're familiar with the symptoms and treatment of tropical diseases, however, which is something your family doctor might have a real tough time recognizing back home.) Consultations with doctors are very cheap in Indonesia, usually about $5-$8 for general practitioners, $8-$15 for specialists. If you check into a hospital in Jayapura, get a VIP room ($20-$30 for everything—including doctors' fees—but not medicines) or a somewhat cheaper "Klas I" room. If you stay in a cheaper hospital room of a ward, your doctor will be some young, inexperienced kid, fresh out of medical school. Government hospitals, at provincial capital and district level, have improved considerably since the late 1980s. Misuse of antibiotics is still a concern in Indonesia. They should only be used for bacterial diseases and then for at least 10 to 14 days to prevent developing antibiotic resistant strains of your affliction. If an injection or antibiotics are prescribed, be sure it's necessary. Ensure syringes have never been used before or better yet, buy your own disposable from an apotik (pharmacy) and take it to the clinic. Emergency Medical Assistance Even in the big cities outside of Jakarta, emergency care leaves much to be desired. Your best bet in the event of a life-threatening emergency or accident is to get on the first plane to Jakarta or Singapore. Contact your embassy or consulate by phone for assistance (see below). Medevac airlifts are very expensive ($26,000) and most embassies will recommend that you buy insurance to cover the cost of this when traveling extensively in Indonesia. Insurance Check your health insurance before coming to make sure you are covered. Travel insurance should include coverage of a medical evacuation to Singapore and a 24-hour worldwide phone number as well as some extras like luggage loss and trip cancellation. AEA International Asia Emergency Assistance offers insurance packages for travelers and expatriates living in Asia. This well-respected outfit is considered to have the best response time and operation in Indonesia, AEA maintains 24-hour alarm centers in Jakarta, Bali, Singapore, Sydney, Bangkok, Hong Kong, Seoul, Beijing, and Ho Chi Minh City. Premium for one-year (approx. $125) is available for travelers and covers the cost of medical evacuation to Singapore and repatriation if recommended by the AEA doctor. Contact: AEA International Pte. Ltd.,331 North Bridge Road, 17th Floor, Odeon Towers, Singapore 0718. « (65) 338 2311, fax: (65) 338 7611. International SOS Assistance Asia Pacific Regional Head Office: 10 Anson Road, #21-08/A

TRAVEL ADVISORY 1 7 7 International Plaza, Singapore 0207. c (65) 221 3981, fax: (65) 226 3937, telex: 24422 SOSAFE. Offers a range of emergency services worldwide. Numerous large corporate clients. Contact them for rates and types of coverage. 1 FOOD AND DRINK Drink lots of fluids. The equatorial sun takes out a lot from you and dehydration can be a serious problem. Symptoms are infrequent urination, deep yellow/orange urine, and headaches. Tap water in Indonesia is not potable and it should be brought to a full boil for ten minutes before being considered safe. Indonesians are themselves fussy about drinking water, so if you're offered a drink it is almost certainly safe. Most Indonesians do not feel they have eaten until they have eaten rice. This is accompanied by side dishes, often just a little piece of meat and some vegetables with a spicy sauce. Other common items include tahu (tofu), tempe (soybean cake) and salted fish. Crispy fried tapioca crackers flavored with prawns and spices [krupuk) usually accompany a meal. No meal is complete without sambal—a fiery paste of ground chili peppers with garlic, shallots, sugar, and sometimes soy sauce or fish paste. Fruits, especially pineapple and papaya, provide quick relief for a chili-burned mouth. Cooking styles vary greatly from one region to another. The Sundanese of West Java are fond of raw vegetables, eaten with chili and fermented prawn paste {lalab/sambal trasi). Minihasan food in North Sulawesi is very spicy, and includes some interesting specialties: fruit bat wings in coconut milk, sambal rat, and dog. In the more isolated parts of the archipelago, the food can be quite plain, and frankly, quite dull. In most Indonesian restaurants there is a standard menu of satay (skewered barbequed meat)—most common are ayam (chicken) and kambing (goat), gado-gado or pecel (boiled vegetables with spicy peanut sauce) and soto (vegetable soup with or without meat). Also common are Chinese dishes like bakmiegoreng(fried noodles), bakmie kuah (noodle soup) and cap cay (stir-fried vegetables). In most larger towns you can also find a number of Chinese restaurants on the main street. Some have menus with Chinese writing, but usually the cuisine is very much assimilated to local tastes. Standard dishes, in addition to the bakmie and cap cay mentioned above, are sweet and sour whole fish {gurame asem manis), beef with Chinese greens {kailan/caisim ca sapi), and prawns sauteed in butter {udang goreng mentega). Indonesian fried chicken (ayam goreng) is common and usually very tasty—although the local -grown chicken can be a bit stringy. Then there is the ubiquitous nasi goreng (fried rice); the "special " (istimewa) comes with an egg on top and is often served for breakfast. There are restaurants everywhere in Indonesia that specialize in food from Padang. West Sumatra. This spicy, and very tasty cuisine has a distinctive way of being served. As many as 15-20 different dishes are displayed in the glass case in front of the restaurant. You tell the waiter what you want and he sets a whole stack of the little dishes in front of you. At the end of the meal, you are charged for what you have eaten and any untouched plates are put back in the case. As tempting as fresh vegetables may be, avoid eating garnishes or raw salads unless the vegetables are air-flown/imported. The beers available in Indonesia are Bintang and Anker, both brewed under Dutch supervision and rather light (perhaps appropriately for the tropics). With electricity such a precious commodity, however, in out-of-the-way places the only way to quaff it cold is to pour it over ice. Eating in West Papua The only place in West Papua you will find western-style meals is in the better hotels and upmarket restaurants in the larger cities. The cost is usually high, and ingredients like beef are imported frozen. Since the restaurateurs and half of the population in West Papua are from other parts of the archipelago, the island's staples—sago, sweet potatoes, manioc—will not be found in restaurants. Warungs are often named "Java", "Yogya" or "Manado" and feature dishes of the respective region. When traveling through the interior or along the coast, try to eat at least some of the local food, which—compared to western Indonesian cuisines—tends to be monotonous and bland. But you may find yourself really liking these after weeks of rice. (For example, thin pancakes of sago spread with peanut butter and jelly make a delicious breakfast.) Fish is the staple protein of the West Papuan diet and you can find many delicious varieties of tuna, snapper and even barracuda which are delicious grilled or served in sauce. If you are staying in small villages, your fish may be served dried and salted. If you are in coastal areas, the fish will probably be either boiled or baked and served with sago paste. Sago paste looks and tastes like glue in the boiled form and goes by the local name of papeda. You will gain great respect if you can get some down. Don't chew, just swallow! Your hosts wil be impressed and flattered, and spend the rest of the evening talking about the foreigner who eats papeda. In the highlands, you may have to hike for days on ubi (sweet potatoes). Fruits & Vegetables Some of Indonesia' Jones s tastiest fruits, such as man-

1 7 8 PRACTICALITIES gosteens and rambutan (although there is a local relative of rambutan called matoa which appears briefly around October) are missing from West Papua. However, there are still many delicious fruits to feast upon: bananas, oranges, papaya, pineapples, pomelos (jeruk Bali), starfruit (blimbing), guava (buah biji), and watermelon. Vegetables are fresh and grown by expert gardeners. Along with the Indonesian vegetables (cassava, sweet potatoes), there are many familiar Western vegetables cultivated, such as carrots, green beans, cauliflower, tomatoes, corn, and potatoes. Waning (Street Stalls) Restaurant kitchens do not necessarily have healthier food preparation procedures than roadside warung. The important thing at a warung is to watch and judge whether or not the cooks inspire confidence. Warung rarely have a supply of running water, so beware. The first portion may not fill you up, so a second portion can be ordered by saying "Tambah separuh" (add half portion). But only the price is halved. The amount of food is more like three-quarters. Finish off with a banana and say "Sudan" (I've had plenty, thank you). The seller will total up the prices of what was served you and ask you how many krupuk, tempe, etc. you added; so keep track. The total will come to between Rp2,500 and Rp5,000 (4(H-8(H). Vegetarianism Say "saya tidak makan daging" (I don't eat meat), "tidakpakai ayam" (without chicken) or "tidakpakai daging" (without meat). Dietary restrictions are very acceptable and common due to the various religious and spiritual practices involving food. However, finding food that truly has no animal products is a problem. Often meals which appear to be made exclusively of vegetables will have a chunk of beef or chicken in them to add that certain oomph. SECURITY Indonesia is a relatively safe place to travel and violent crime is almost unheard of, but petty crime is on the upswing. Pay close attention to your belongings, especially in big cities. Use a small backpack or moneybelt for valuables: shoulderbags can be snatched. Bags have been snatched by thieves on motorbikes, so be vigilant. Be especially wary on crowded bemos, buses and trains; this is where pickpockets lurk. They usually work in groups and are very clever at slitting bags and extracting valuables without your noticing anything. Be sure that the door and windows of your hotel room are locked at night, including those in the bathroom, as thieves are adept at sneaking in while you are asleep. Big hotels have safety boxes for valuables. If your hotel does not have such a facility, it is better to carry all the documents along with you. Make sure you have a photocopy of your passport, return plane ticket and travelers' check numbers and keep them separate from the originals. ! SURATJALAN I To travel outside of Biak, Jayapura and Sorong, you need a document called a suratjalan (literally "travel letter"). The more complete term is surat keterangan jalan and is often abbreviated to SKJ (pron. "es-kah-jay"). This permit is a letter with information like your passport number, a pasted-in photograph, and at the bottom, all the places to which your travel has been approved. The suratjalan is necessary, but easily obtained. Technically, one can get the document at the main police office at Biak, Jayapura or Sorong. In fact, you are best off getting it in Jayapura/Sentani. If Sorong is your point of entry to West Papua, you of course need to get your document there. If you are going directly to Jayapura from Sorong, you may as well wait. It takes one to four passport-sized photos and half an hour to get the suratjalan. Hand over your photographs and passport and tell them where you want to go. Don't be conservative about your travel plans. Remember, flights are unreliable in West Papua and you may get stuck somewhere and decide to set out in another direction. List as many cities as possible. Be polite and use your head. Offer a coherent itinerary and talk about the scenery and the wildlife and other noncontroversial aspects of the region to which you want permission to go. There are some areas for which you will not be able to get permission to visit. At the time of this writing, these were: the corridor along the border with Papua New Guinea, the Mamberamo River basin, and the Paniai Lakes and adjacent highlands, including Puncak Jaya. The reasons for this are various, having to do with politics, lack of infrastructure, and—in the case of Puncak Jaya—proximity to the Freeport Indonesia copper mine. A special permit must be secured for climbing Puncak Jaya. (See "Highlands Practicalities," page 205.) [Note: One possible way around this is to sign on with a travel agency. Some of these are well-connected enough to get permits for, say, Puncak Jaya or the Paniai Lakes area. Write to some of the agents listed in "Highlands Practicalities," page 205, and see what they say.] When you arrive at each stop on your trip, you need to show your passport and suratjalan to officers at the local police station. In most areas, your hotel/losmen will send someone to take care of this chore for you. If you meet with the police in person, just tell them where you tio

TRAVEL ADVISORY 1 79 will be going and some idea of a schedule. If you disappear in their jurisdiction, it is their heads that are going to roll, so don't be impatient and rude. In most cases they just want to meet you and practice their English. Usually, the police will just check your papers and send you on your way. The Asmat area— which we visited fairly soon after it was opened to tourists—is a different case. Here an officer will want to accompany you on your trip. Although it is very disappointing to have a gun-toting policeman mediate your interaction with everyone you meet, there seems to be no simple way around this rule. We suggest you make it clear that (1) it is your trip and you are the one who will define the schedule; (2) this is not a paid vacation for the police officer and he can share your food but you will not be paying him any bribes disguised as a per diem fee. ADDRESSES | The Indonesian spelling of geographical features and villages varies considerably as there is no form of standardization that meets with both popular and official approval. We have seen village names spelled three different ways, all on signboards in front of various government offices. In this guide, we have tried to use the most common spellings. There are three overlapping and concurrent address systems for any given location: old street name and number, new street name with new numbers (neither of which may be in numerical order), and kampung (neighborhood) name with block numbers. Every town has streets named after the same national heroes, so you will find General Sudirman Street in every city throughout the archipelago. To add to the confusion, the government periodically changes street names and upgrades alleyways {gang) to street status with new names. In essence, addresses are constantly in flux. The names with the new house numbers are the preferred designations for postal purposes. However, when tracking down a hotel address you may find that the old street names, the kampung names, or local landmarks more helpful. You will also find number 38 next to number 119 and the streets referred to by different names, such as Jalan Diponegoro (an Indonesian hero), Jalan Abdi Dongo (from local history) or Gajahan Gang II (the kampung name and alley number). Finding Your Way Westerners are used to finding things using telephone directories, addresses, and maps. But in Indonesia, phone books are incomplete, addresses can be confusing and maps little understood. The way to find something is to ask. To ask for directions, it's better to have the name of a person and the name of the kampung. Thus "Bu Murni, Jetis" is a better address for asking directions even though "Jalan Yos Sudarso 14" is the mailing address. Knowing the language helps here but is not essential. Immediately clear answers are not common and you should be patient. You are likely to get a simple indication of direction without distance, or specific instructions. The assumption is that you will be asking lots of people along the way. Begin by asking three people. Usually two point toward the same general vicinity. Proceed, then ask again. Maps are useful tools for you, but introducing them into discussions with Indonesians may cause more confusion than clarity. More than likely the north arrow on the map will be turned to real north before a reading. Periplus Travel Maps provide detailed and accurate maps of all major tourist destinations. CALENDAR The Indonesian government sets national holidays every year, on both fixed and moveable dates.The fixed national holidays on the Gregorian calendar are the international New Year, Jan. 1; Independence Day, Aug. 17; and Christmas, Dec. 25. The Christian Good Friday, Easter Day, and Ascension Day, the Balinese new year, Nyepi, and the Buddhist Waisak are also legal holidays. These holy days and all the Muslim holy days are based on the moon, so confusion results in attempting to extrapolate several years ahead. Muslim holidays in Indonesia in 2000 are: Idul Fitri January 8-9. The end of the Muslim fasting month, Ramadan, also called Lebaran. Idul Adha March 16. The day of Abraham's sacrifice and the day that the haji pilgrims circle the Kaaba in Mecca. Hijryah April 6. The Islamic New Year, when Muhammad traveled from Mecca to Medina. Maulud Nabi Muhammad SAW June 15. Muhammad's birthday. Isra Mi'raj Nabi Muhammad SAW. October 26. When Muhammad ascended to heaven on his steed, Bouraq. The 12 lunar months of the Muslim calendar are, in order: Muharram, Safar, Rabiul Awal, Rabiul Ahir, Jumadil Awal, Jumadil Ahir, Rajab, Sa'ban, Ramadan, Sawal, Kaidah, Zulhijja. Note: The Muslim calendar begins with the Hijriah, Muhammad's flight to Median, in A.D. 622 according to the Gregorian calendar. Early A.D. 1996 corresponds to A.H. 1416. The Muslim calendar is a lunar calendar (354 or 355 days) and gains 10 or 11 days on the Gregorian calendar (365 days) each year. ETIQUETTE In the areas of Indonesia most frequented by Europeans, many are familiar with the strange

180 PRACTICALITIES ways of Westerners. But it is best to be aware of how certain aspects of your behavior will be viewed. You will not be able to count on an Indonesian to set you straight when you commit a faux pas. They are much too polite. They will stay silent or even reply tidak apa apa (no problem) if you ask if you did something wrong. So here are some points to keep in mind: <•* The left hand is considered unclean as it is used for cleaning oneself in the bathroom. It is inappropriate to use the left hand to eat or to give or receive anything with it. When you do accidentally use your left hand, say, "ma'af, tangan km" (please excuse my left hand). <•* The head is considered the most sacred part of the body and, hence, the feet the least sacred. Avoid touching people on the head. Go for the elbow instead. Never step over food or expose the sole of your foot toward anyone. <•* As it is impolite to keep one's head higher than others, it is appropriate to acknowledge others by stooping (extending the right arm, drooping the right shoulder, and leaning forward) while passing closely by someone who is sitting. ( ^ Pointing with the index finger is impolite. Indonesians use their thumbs (palm turned upward, fingers curled in) or open palms instead. •'Summoning people by crooking the forefinger is impolite. Rather, wave downward with a flat palm face down. ( *" Alcohol is frowned upon in Islam, so take a look around you and consider taking it easy. ( «" Hands on hips is a sign of superiority or anger. <** Indonesians don't blow their noses. Keep a handkerchief handy. <** Take off your shoes when you enter someone's house. Often the host will stop you, but you should go through the motions until he does. ( ^ Don't drink or eat until invited to, even after food and drinks have been placed in front of you. Sip your drink and don't finish it in one gulp. Never take the last morsels from a common plate. ^ You will often be invited to eat with the words makan, makan ("eat, eat") if you pass somebody who is eating. This is not really an invitation, but simply means, "Excuse me as I eat." «•* If someone prepares a meal or drink for you it is most impolite to refuse. Some things from the west filter through to Indonesia more effectively than others and stories of "free sek" (free sex) made a deep and lasting impression in Indonesia. Expect this topic to appear in lists of questions you will be asked in your cultural exchanges. It is best to explain how things have changed since the 1960s and how we now are stuck with "safsek." Keeping Your Cool At government offices like immigration or police, talking loudly and forcefully doesn't make things easier. Patience and politeness are virtues that open many doors in Indonesia. 1 TRAVELING WITH CHILDREN Luckily for those with children, Indonesians are very gentle and love to have kids around. But you should bring essentials: sunhats, creams, medicines, and special foods. Disposable diapers, water containers and sterile water for babies are readily available in major cities. Nights can sometimes be cool, so remember to bring some warm clothing for your child. Milk, eggs, fruit which you can peel, and porridges are available in the markets here. 1 ACCOMMODATIONS j A hierarchy of lodgings and official terminology has been set by the government. A "hotel" is an up-market establishment catering to businessmen, middle-to upper-class travelers and tourists. A star-rating (one to five stars) is applied according to the range of facilities. Smaller places with no stars and basic facilities are not referred to as hotels but as losmen (from the French logement), wisma (guesthouse) or penginapan (accommodation) and cater to the masses and budget tourists. Hotels in West Papua range from one starrated hotel in Jayapura, a Sheraton in Timika, and another star-rated hotel in Biak, to very basic. Most are mid-range losmen. At this level, one can expect reasonably comfortable rooms, good service, and tea and coffee service. It's common to ask to see the room before checking in. Shop around before deciding, particularly if the hotel offers different rooms at different rates. Avoid carpeted rooms, especially without air-conditioning, as usually they are damp and this makes the room smell. Many of the cheaper digs have only squat toilets (no toilet paper) and ladle-type, "mandi" baths. This is usually adequate, but try to get a room with an attached bath, if possible. Whether or not AC is a priority depends on where you are. In the highlands, it is not usually necessary. On Biak and the muggy coasts, it can be almost essential. Bring your own towel and soap (although many places provide these for their guests) and a packet of mosquito coils. Mosquito nets are the best protection, but they're a hassle to put up in most hotel rooms. If you request it, your room will be sprayed for insects. Be sure that this is done long before you are ready to sleep if you want to avoid the smell. In many hotels, discounts of up to 50% from published rates are to be had for the asking, particularly if you have a business card. Booking in advance through travel agencies can also result in a lower rate. Larger hotels always add tax and service to the bill.

TRAVEL ADVISORY 1 8 1 Bathroom Etiquette When staying in losmen, particularly when using communal facilities, don't climb in or drop your soap into the tub of water {bak mandi). This is for storing clean water. Scoop and pour the water over yourself with the ladle/dipper provided. If you wish to use the native paper-free cleaning method, after using the toilet, scoop water with your right hand and clean with the left. This is the reason one only eats with the right hand—the left is regarded as unclean. Use soap and a fingernail brush (locals use a rock) for cleaning hands. Pre-packaged alcohol towelettes may make you feel happier about opting for this method. But don't throw the towelettes down the toilet. Bring along your own towel and soap (although some places provide these if you ask). Staying in Villages Officially, the Indonesian government requires that foreign visitors spending the night report to the local police. This is routinely handled by losmen and hotels, who send in a copy of the registration form you fill out when you check in. Where there are no commercial lodgings, you can often rely on local hospitality. But when staying in a private home, keep in mind the need to inform the local authorities. One popular solution is to stay in the home of the local authority, the village head {kepala desa). Carry photocopies of your passport, visa stamp and embarkation card to give to officials when venturing beyond conventional tourist areas. This saves time, and potential hassles, for you and your host. Keep in mind that people in many parts of West Papua have had limited experience with foreigners to date and are still learning how to share their homes with you. Villagers in rural Indonesia do not routinely maintain guest rooms. Things like soft beds, cold drinks and electricity are luxury items, and it is not guaranteed you will find someone who speaks anything other than Indonesian or the local language. They will, however, offer you the best they have and you should graciously return that respectful treatment. Paying a modest fee ($5) for a meal and a bed is appropriate and polite. If a cash arrangement has not been prearranged, you should leave a gift appropriate to local needs—sugar, salt, cookies, mirrors, small clasp-knives, clothing, cigarettes, or D-cell batteries for radios in remote villages. These gifts will be deeply appreciated. Note down their address and send prints of any photos you take of them. Sleeping in thatched Dani huts is actually quite comfortable in the chilly nights of the highlands, and we slept like logs on the springy bark of the Asmat jeu floor. Do your best not to insult your hosts with behavior that may be offensive. Your reward for any discomfort will be the experience of a lifetime. The first price is not the last price. You should attempt to learn the art of bargaining while you're here. First ask the price that the vendor expects and then counter offer. Ask for the "best price" and keep smiling. Your initial offer should be much lower than the price you really want to pay. Don't seem too eager to buy. Keep a sense of humor about the whole thing. There's no such thing as a "right price." You usually pay more than the locals, but that's the way it is. Once a price is settled, you are obliged to buy, so don't play the game too long if you're not really interested in the merchandise. However, West Papua does not follow the rest of the country in this. Most things are harga pas (fixed price) and often people will walk away from you if you bargain too forcefully. SHIPPING & FREIGHT Shipping goods home is relatively safe andpainless. Items under one meter long and 10 kg in weight can be sent via most postal agents. All the packing will be done for you at minimal charge, although it's always advisable to keep an eye on how it's done. Buy insurance. Larger purchases are best sent by air or sea cargo. Forwarders will handle the whole process for a price, from packing to customs. Some retailers may also be willing to send goods if purchased in quantity. Air cargo is charged by the kilogram (10 kg min), and can be costly. Sea cargo (min. one cubic meter) is around $350 to the US or Europe and takes about 60 days. Insure your shipment: sea insurance is about 2.75% of the claimed value. When shipping cargo, you are responsible for clearing customs back home and for the transportation from the port of entry to your destination. This can cost up to $500 so cargo is only economical for large purchases. PHOTOGRAPHY Indonesians generally enjoy being photographed. However, if you are in doubt or the situation seems awkward, it is polite to ask. Some religious activities, eating, and bathing are inappropriate subjects. Beware of the strong shadows from the equatorial sun. Late afternoon and, especially, early morning, provide the most pleasing light and the richest colors. The only way to deal with the heavy shadows in midday is to use a fill flash. The heat and humidity of the tropics is hard

182 PRACTICALITIES on camera equipment. Be particularly careful when moving equipment from an air-conditioned room to the muggy outdoors. Moisture will condense on the inside and outside of the camera, Wait until it evaporates; don't be tempted to wipe it off. Also, watch the location of your camera bag and film. Temperatures in hot cars or on boats can be searing. In general, stick with reliable equipment you are familiar with and bring extra batteries. Photographic Supplies Some 35mm Fuji and Kodak film is widely available in Indonesia, including color print film from ASA 100 to 400 and Ektachrome and Fujichrome 100 ASA daylight transparency film. In larger towns you can buy Fuji Neopan 100 ASA blackand-white negative film and Fuji Velvia. In West Papua, you can only process print film; slide processing is not available anywhere in the province. 1 PROTECTED SPECIES Indonesia is home to thousands of animal species—more than anywhere else in the world. It also has the greatest number of endangered species in the world. Establishing an effective environmental conservation program is a formidable project. The government, with the help of private conversation agencies, such as the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) and the Nature Conservancy, is working to create a viable network of national parks and nature reserves where fragile ecosystems and threatened species can be protected. Two of these national parks, Ujung Kulon in West Java (home to the world's most endangered large mammal, the Javan rhino) and Komodo in the Lesser Sundas (home to the Komodo dragon) have been declared World Heritage Sites by the World Conservation Union. There are strict laws and severe penalties for trade in endangered species. The appendices of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) lists more than 200 protected species of Indonesian mammals, birds, reptiles, insects, fish, and mollusks—including orangutan, parrots, cockatoo, crocodiles, tortoises and turtles, birdwing butterflies, and black coral. Visitors should be aware of the fragility of Indonesia's natural environment and not contribute to any further degradation of it. Species Unique to West Papua It is illegal to export any products made from marine turtle shells (e.g. jewelry, combs, boxes). Also protected by international convention are the magnificent birds of paradise, cockatoos, parrots and pigeons, birdwing butterflies, cassowary birds and their eggs, cuscus and tree kangaroos, giant clams, Triton's trumpet shells, and the pearly or chambered nautilus shells, black coral, and ivory from the dugong. MOUNTAIN CLIMBING Access to West Papua's highest peaks around Puncak Jaya is through llaga in the highlands. Puncak Jaya is rated lll-IV difficulty and should be considered only by experienced mountaineers. You will need permits from the police and military, which are not routinely granted. Climbing Trikora is easier. To get to the base camp, figure just a day longer than the trip to Habbema described in this book. Operators in Wamena run treks to Trikora, and you should contact them if you want to climb. (See page 210.) Those interested in climbing in West Papua should contact the Indonesian Mountaineering Association. Rafia Bontoh will be most helpful, as he has scads of experience with bureaucratic red tape, logistics and actual climbing. His club, MAPALA, is with the University of Indonesia. MAPALA. University of Indonesia, Jl. Pegangsaan Timur 17 Zaal, Jakarta Pusat, Indonesia, s (21) 333223. Also helpful in arranging treks, everything from permits to porters, are Insatra Exclusive Tours (see page 208) and Trekmate Outdoor Adventures (page 209). SCUBA DIVING Although the waters around West Papua contain some of the richest reefs in Indonesia, the only dive center in Jayapura is the Lumba-Lumba (Dolphin) Dive School (see "Jayapura Practicalities," page 196). If you bring your own equipment you can snorkel in most of the coastal areas, and you might even be able to scrounge up air tanks (from pearl or trepang divers) in Sorong. There are over 50 conservation areas in the province, but many are in remote jungle or island areas that are not easy to get to nor equipped with tourist facilities. Two of the most accessible and rewarding to visit are the province's two national parks, Wasur National Park and Cenderawasih Bay Marine Park. Community-run eco-tourism is being established, and comfortable, if simple, accommodations are now available. Strictly speaking, you must have a letter of permission from the Provincial Department ofForestry to visit either a Strict Nature Reserve or a Wildlife Sanctuary. In West Papua, this may be obtained by writing or visiting the KSDA (Department of Forestry) office in Jayapura, Jl.

TRAVEL ADVISORY 1 83 Raya Abepura, Kotaraja, Jayapura, «/fax : (0967) 81596. Visitors interested in information on West Papua's wildlife and culture, birding and snorkeling/diving, or who need resource materials such as maps, may contact or visit the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) Coordination Office in Jayapura, Jl. Angkasa Indah II, Angkasa, •n , /fax: (0967) 42765 or tr 42420. Wasur National Park, near Merauke, suports an ecosystem similar to the Australian bush, a remnant from when Australia and New Guinea were one large land mass. Open eucalyptus savannah and grasslands make for easy viewing for animals such as wallabies, monitor lizards and kookaburras. Wasur offers horse treks, river tours and excellent birdwatching— over 400 species have been recorded here. Dive or snorkeling enthusiasts will want to visit Cenderawasih Bay National Marine Park. Rental equipment is available and WWF staff in the Nabire office can arrange outings. Cenderawasih Bay has a rich marine life, extensive coral gardens and healthy populations of animals that are in jeopardy elsewhere. Giant clams, for instance, are almost extinct in the rest of Indonesia, yet are found here in abundance, reaching up to 1.5 m in length. Turtles, sharks and whales can be seen and, if you are very lucky, you may spot a dugong, a large but harmless animal that looks like a walrus without tusks. Keen birders may be interested in the Arfak Mountains, Yapen and Biak-Supiori Strict Nature Reserves. The Arfak Mountains, near Manokwari, contain birds of paradise, bowerbirds and even large and colorful birdwing butterfly species that are found nowhere else on earth. Small Yapen Island supports no less than four species of birds of paradise, and Biak has many unique species of its own. The village of Yasem on Supiori is the best base village for birding on this island. Of interest are numerous parrots (such as black-capped lories) and the paradise kingfisher. A local guide can take you out. Please remember to compensate him for his time and knowledge, $5-$10 for a half to full day. Good snorkeling is also found close to these areas. Plans are in the works to grant Lorentz Strict Nature Reserve "National Park" standing. This reserve, the largest in Indonesia, with 1.5 million ha., represents one of the most undisturbed areas in the world. Protected habitats range from the mangrove tidal flats of the south coast to the permanent snow caps of Puncak Jaya (Mt. Carstensz). At 4,884 m, it is the highest peak between the Himalayas and the Andes, and one of only three equatorial glaciers in the world. Trails and facilities are being developed in llaga, in the northeast corner of the reserve, as well as in other parts of the highlands. Roads are being constructed throughout the interior and access will become much easier in the very near future. Other potential sites for "soft" tourism include Yamurbsa-Medi Wildlife Sanctuary, one of the largest leatherback turtle nesting beaches in the world, and Cyclops Mountains Strict Nature Reserve, rainforest found only 5 minutes from Sentani Airport near Jayapura. See respective area practicalities sections for further information. TOURS AND TRAVEL AGENTS J Hiring your own vehicle for a private tour naturally allows you much more flexibility. An AC vehicle with a driver/guide costs $30 to $60 per day, all inclusive. The guides on both types of tours do expect tips, however be aware that they also get a 20%-40% commission on any of your purchases in the large souvenir shops along the way. Travel agencies offer a variety of tours with knowledgeable, multilingual guides. If your time is limited, it may be best to entrust your schedule to an agency and let them handle all the arrangements. Refer to area practicalities for local tours. Recommended Travel Agents Best Travel Jl. Raya Sentani #84, Sentani. -a (0967) 91861, fax: (0967) 91860. Branch manager, Andre Liem, is very pleasant and well-organized. Province-wide trips, inlcuding Asmat regions and Puncak Jaya (Mt. Carstensz). Chandra Nusantara Tours and Travel Jl. Trikora 17, PO Box 225, Wamena. s (0969) 31293, fax: (0969) 31299. Besides their varied highlands trips, they also run a 10-14 day Asmat tour and a province-wide Bird Tour (19-21 days, visiting Sorong, Batanta, Salawati, Wamena, Lake Habbema, the Jayapura area, and Biak; $1,640/person for 5-10 people, including hotel, food, guide, porters, coastal transportation, excluding airfare). Dani Sangrila Tours and Travel Jl. Pembangunan 19, Jayapura. s(0967)31060, fax: (0967) 31529. Tour manager: Athan Ginting. Highly recommended for personally tailored trips. Insatra Exclusive Tours Jl. Kemiri #1H1, P.O. Box 211, Sentani, West Papua -a (0967) 91224, fax: (0967) 91200. A reputable firm run by Rudi Willem. Write or call for any special requests. Special Interest Tours Intrepid Travel offers low prices for small groups (max. size 12). They have a variety of tours available in length, difficulty, and activities and emphasize flexibility and getting off the beaten track. Contact: PO Box 2781, Fitzroy DC, Victoria 3065, Australia. ^ (61-3) 9416-2655, fax: (61-3) 9416- 4426, e-mail: [email protected]. EduVenture can provide student tour guides. Contact: [email protected].

PRACTICALITIES 1 84 Transportation You can fly direct to Indonesia from just about anywhere. Most people traveling from Europe and the US arrive on direct flights to Jakarta, while those coming from Australia usually go first to Bali. The main international entry points are Soekarno-Hatta airport in Jakarta, Ngurah Rai airport in Bali, and Polonia airport in Medan. There are also non-stop flights from several Asian cities, including Singapore, Hong Kong, Taipei, Seoul, Nagoya, Fukuoka and Osaka. Jakarta's Soekarno-Hatta airport is served by many international airlines, with over a dozen flights a day from Singapore alone. A cut-price alternative from Europe or the US may be to get a cheap flight to Singapore and buy an onward discount ticket to Jakarta from there: the cost of these can be as low as $75 single, $150 return. An excursion fare return ticket from Singapore to Bali with stops in Jakarta and Yogyakarta, good for a month, is available in Singapore for around $300. Buy through travel agents—check the classified section of the Straits Times for details. [Note: you need a return or onward ticket to get a visa-free entry upon arrival in Indonesia.] Direct flights also connect Jakarta with many major cities in Asia and Europe. Air fares vary depending on the carrier, the season and the type of ticket purchased. A discount RT fare from the US costs from $1,000-1,200 and from Europe costs $800-1,200; about half that from Australia or East Asian capitals. Air tickets from Batam and Bintan are also inexpensive. These Indonesian islands just off the coast of Singapore can be reached via short ferry hops from Singapore's World Trade Center. Ferries to Batam cost $12 single, $17 return and to Bintan $32 single, $45 return. Inquire at travel agents in Singapore for latest fares, then compare with direct Singapore to Bali discount rates. | TRAVELING IN INDONESIA Having arrived in Indonesia, your choices for onward travel depend, as always, on time and money. In many ways, Indonesia is an easy place to get around. Indonesians are, as a rule, hospitable, good-humored, and willing to help a lost or confused traveler. The weather is warm, the pace of life relaxed, and the air is rich with the smells of clove cigarettes, the blessed durian fruit and countless other wonders. However, the nation's transportation infrastructure does not move with the kind of speed and efficiency that Western travelers expect, which often leads to frustration. Bookings are often difficult to make; flights and reservations are sometimes mysteriously canceled. It is best to adjust your pace to local conditions. What seems like nerve-wracking inefficiency is really so only if one is in a hurry. If you have to be somewhere at a particular time, allow plenty of time to get there. Check and double-check your bookings. Otherwise just go with the flow. You can't just turn off the archipelago's famous jam karet—"rubber time"—when it's time to take an airplane and turn it on again when you want to relax. You will get there eventually. Peak periods around the Christmas/New Year holidays and during the June to August tourist season are the most difficult. It is imperative to book well in advance and reconfirm your bookings at every step along the way. Travel anywhere in Indonesia during the week prior to the Islamic Lebaran holiday is practically impossible. Find a nice spot and sit it out. The golden rule is: things will sort themselves out. Eventually. Be persistent, of course, but relax and keep your sense of humor. Before you explode, have a kretek cigarette, a cup of sweet coffee, or a cool glass of kelapa muda (young coconut water). Things might look different. Planning an Itinerary The first thing to do is to be easy on yourself and not to plan an impossibly tight schedule. Things happen slowly here, so adjust yourself to the pace. Better to spend more time in a few places and see them in a leisurely way, than to end up hot, hassled, and hurried. You'll see more this way, not less. Wherever you are, keep in mind that the tropical heat takes its toll and you should avoid the midday sun. Get an early start, before the rays become punishing (the tropical light is beautiful at dawn). Retreat to a cool place after lunch and go out again in the afternoon and early evening, when it's much more pleasant.

TRANSPORTATION 1 85 The cardinal rule is book early, confirm and reconfirm often. If you are told a flight is fully booked, go to the airport anyway and stand in line. While Garuda's booking system is computerized, the other local airlines' are not, and bookings evaporate at the last minute all the time. However it is rare that flights are completely full. Always keep the following points in mind: + It's practically impossible to get a confirmed booking out of a city other than the one you're in. You can buy a ticket and it may say you have a booking, but don't believe it until you reconfirm with the airline in the city of departure. >+• Reconfirm bookings directly with the airline office in the city of departure between 24 and 72 hours before your flight, particularly during peak tourist seasons and Indonesian holidays. Your seat may be given away if you reconfirm either too early or too late (or not at all). + Make bookings in person, not by phone. + Get written proof or computer printout of bookings. Note the name of the person who gives it to you so you can hold them responsible if you're later told you don't have one. + Note the computer booking code or PRN (passenger record number). Names have a tendency to go astray or be misspelled. Concrete proof of your booking is essential. + If your name isn't on the computer try looking under your first or middle names as these are frequently mistaken for surnames. *)- If you are told a flight is full, ask to be put on the waiting list, then go to the airport about two hours before departure and check the waiting list. Hang around the desk and be friendly to the staff and you will probably get on the flight. A tip will sometimes, but not always, help. +• There are usually alternate ways of getting from point A to B. Search them out. + Generally, students (12-26 years old) receive a discount of 10-25% (show an international student ID card) and children between the ages of 2-10 pay 50% of the regular fare. Infants not occupying a seat pay 10% of the regular fare. Ask the airlines or travel agent. Garuda Indonesia's flagship airline has been in business since 1946. It serves all major cities in Indonesia and at least 38 international destinations. They fly only jets, mainly wide-bodies, and the service is reasonably good. Merpati A Garuda subsidiary, with a domestic network serving more than 160 airports throughout Indonesia. Merpati (literally "pigeon") flies smaller jets and turboprops (McDonnell Douglas DC-9s, Fokker VFW F-28s) as well as turbo-props (Fokker F-27s, Canadian DeHavilland DHC-6 "TwinOtters," the Indonesian-built Casa Nusantara CN235s and CN-2i2s), and Boeing B-737 jets. Merpati is not known for its punctuality or its service, but the airline does at least connect towns and villages across the archipelago, in some cases landing on a grass airstrip in a remote highland village with a population of only 100 people that would take days to reach by any other means. Consider yourself lucky that you can even fly to these places. Merpati's standard baggage allowance is 20 kg for economy class. However, you should note that some of the smaller aircraft permit only 10 kg (after which excess baggage charges of up to $5/kg apply). Bouraq A small, private company, flying mainly older planes and a few newer B-737s linking secondary cities in Java, Bali, Kalimantan, Nusa Tenggara, Sulawesi, and other remote destinations. Mandala Operates a few prop planes and B-737s to out-of-the-way airstrips in Sulawesi, Kalimantan and Sumatra. [Note: Travel agents often give cheaper fares than airline offices.] To and From West Papua Jayapura is the hub for flights around West Papua. Any traveler to West Papua must arrange their travel papers there (or in Sentani) anyway, so it is an essential first stop for any itinerary. Garuda flights from Jakarta to Biak and Jayapura (via Makassar) are on Mon, Wed, Fri and Sun ($556). There are also flights to Jayapura from several cities in Australia throughout the week. Merpati also has the following flights: Jakarta-Jayapura Daily $556 Makassar-Sorong M, W, Sa $188 Makassar-Timika Daily $327 Manado-Sorong/Biak/Timika Th $138/$229/$299 In the practicalities sections for each area of West Papua, we have listed all the flights scheduled at press time. Check when you arrive, however, as these schedules change rapidly. Airline Offices Garuda Jl. Sudirman 3, Biak, s (0981) 21416, 21331, 23116; Jl. Percetakan 2, Jayapura, s (0967) 36217, 36218; fax: (0967) 31752.. Merpati Jl. A. Yani 15 Lantai 1/21, next to the Hotel Matoa, Jayapura. © (0967) 33327, 33810, 33111. Bouraq Jl. Percetakan No. 12, Jayapura. -B (0967) 31612, fax: 35290. Mandala Sentani Airport, s- (0967) 91612, fax: 91636. Departure Tax Airport tax for departing passengers is Rp. 11,000 for domestic flights. JVIMI I5 0 II I 3n proof or 1 the name c

•PIPP|IM| Stock up on food—you will quickly get sick |K|£IJyJw of white rice and salted fish—and bring protection from the rain, and plastic to thoroughly waterThere is four times as much sea in Indonesia proo f you r gear > You could negotiate with a as land and for many centuries transportation crewmemberto rent his bunk, which could make among the islands has been principally by boat. sleeping much more comfortable. Tiny ports are scattered all over the archipelago Overnight ferries, with throbbing motors and and the only way to reach many areas is by sea. crowded beyond belief, offer passage to many To travel by boat you need plenty of time. Most smaller islands. On these—and on deck pasships are small and are at the mercy of the sea sage on any vessel in Indonesia—it is important and the seasons. Think of it as a romantic jour- to use your luggage to stake out a territory ney and don't be in a hurry. early, and to set down some straw mats to Pelni (Pelayaran Nasional Indonesia), the national have a clean place to lie down. It is almost alpassenger line, has 20 large ships (some 70 ways best to stay on deck, where the fresh ships total) criss-crossing the archipelago carry- sea air will keep your spirits up. Below deck tends ing up to 1,500 passengers each. These boats to be loud, verminous and smelly. travel on fixed schedules and the first and sec- In many areas, day trips on smaller boats— ond class cabins are comfortable. Check the prahu—are the best way to explore. These can route map above for destinations served and con- be hired by the hour, with a boatman, to take tact Pelni's main office for a current schedule. you snorkeling or sightseeing along the coast, The German-built passenger ships are mod- or birdwatching upriver. Outboard motors are very ern and comfortable. Fares are fixed, and there expensive in Indonesia, and tend to be no more are up to 5 classes, determining how many powerful than is absolutely necessary. These are people share a cabin and kinds of services. no t speedboats. Inspect the boat before neHead office: 5th floor, Jl. Gajah Mada 14, Jak- £ otiatin g a P rice ' a n d if jt doesn, t hav e one > se e arta 10130. «(021) 63^4342; fax: (021)6385- if t h e boatman can rig up a canopy to offer shel4130. Main ticket office: Jl Angkasa 18, Ke- ter from the blazing sun. mayoran •B- 421-1921. Open in the mornings. T Hf W t P There are a myriad of other options. Rusty old 10 ana Trom West Papua coasters ply routes throughout the eastern islands, Pelni has several mixed passenger/cargo ships stopping at tiny ports to pick up dried coconut that run along West Papua's north coast, and meat, seaweed and other small loads of cash the Tatamailau stops along the south coast. crops. They drop off basics like tinware, fuel and Prices are cheap and this can be an interestthe occasional outboard motor. You could find ing way to see the coastal villages and towns. deck passage on one of these ships at just about Up to 2,400 passengers can travel on the ships any harbor, and for very little money. | Rinjani, Umsini, Ciremaiand Dobonsolo to Jaya186 PRACTICALITIES

TRANSPORTATION 1 8 7 MAF. Officer: Wally Wiley, -a 91059 (Sentani, by day). The Missionary Aviation Fellowship office (a Protestant support airline) is next to the Sentani air terminal.They do not have commercial flights to where either Garuda or Merpati flies. MAF'S schedule is set according to the church's requirements and they take into account the weights of passengers, including their luggage, with missionaries having first priority. For a special chartered flight, contact them several months ahead of time. Then confirm, 2 weeks prior. AMA. Associated Mission Aviation is the Roman Catholic equivalent of MAF. Officer: Bosco Fernandez, whose office is close to the Sentani airport, next to MAF, s- 91009. Planes are Cessna 185s (4-5 passengers). Charters run $180/hr. AMA can be contacted through Airfast (a cargo outfit, but they also charter Hawker Siddeley 748's at $1,100 per hour) at telex: 76122 AIRFAST, or Jl. Sam Ratulangi 3, P.O. Box 1234, Jayapura, n 91114, 91115, 91085. Flying in the Highlands The fastest way to reach Wamena in the Baliem Valley is to fly to Sentani (Jayapura), either get your suratjalan there or catch a ride into Jayapura to do so, overnight at one of the losmen in Sentani, and take the next morning's flight to Wamena. Once in the highlands, you can catch a flight to any number of small highland airstrips. At last count, there were a total of 246 airstrips in West Papua. Merpati regularly schedules a number of flights and the Missionary Aviation Fellowship (MAF) and the Associated Mission Aviation (AMA) pura, via Sulawesi or Maluku, with stops in Sorong and Manokwari. The Rinjani and Umsini stop also at Nabire, while the Ciremai and Dobonsolo serve Biak. The Tatamailau travels a monthlong voyage through West and East Nusa Tenggara from Bali to the south coast of West Papua— Merauke, Timika, Kaimana, and Fakfak. There are four classes of cabins (the cheapest is dormitory style but still clean). Some prices from Jakarta: Biak 1st class $156 dormitory $ 45 Jayapura $174/$50 Manokwari $145/$43 Sorong $137/$40 Children (1-11 years old) get a 25% discount; babies (to 1 year) get a 90% discount. It takes a week to Jakarta. It is not a cruise ship, but the food is good and it's an excellent alternative to flying if one has a bit of time to spare. Book your passage as early as possible. You may find it less of a hassle to book through a local travel agent/tour operator. Pelni (P.T. Pelayaran Nasional Indonesia). Jl. Halmahera 1, Jayapura. -a-(0967) 533070, 533170, fax: 533370. Air Transportation Merpati maintains a network of flights connecting Jayapura, Wamena (daily), Merauke, Manokwari, and Nabire. Check area practicalities for schedules.

188 PRACTICALITIES have flights to the others. It is also possible— and even practical, if you are in a group—to charter one of the mission planes. See "Highlands Practicalities," page 205 for details. Sea Transportation Yotefa shipping, a cargo outfit. Jl. Percetakan 90A, s 31687, telex: 76148 YAKJ. They have 200-ton coasters that take up to 75 deck passengers from Jayapura to Sorong (and points between) about once a month; from Merauke to Fakfak and to Am, about every six weeks. These are "trampers." Ferries run in some areas and small boats can be chartered to explore the coastal areas. Route #1: Jayapura Sarmi Serui Biak Nabire Manokwari Sorong Manokwari Biak Nabire Serui Sarmi Jayapura on the Jayapura-based Dayala Nusantara. 14day cycle, 26 voyages a year, total distance: 1,826 nautical miles. Route #2: Jayapura Sarmi Trimurus Bagusa Kasanaweja Bagusa Trimurus Puwai Kaipuri Dawai Ambai Serui Waren Waipoga Napan Nabire Biak Korido Jeggerbun Ransiki Windesi Waior Nabire Biak Ansus Serui Dawai Waren Serui Kaipuri Sarmi Jayapura on the Jayapurabased Nyala Perintis. 28-day cycle, 13 voyages a year; 1,804 nautical miles. Land Transportation The average road in Indonesia is a paved, but rough and potholed thoroughfare, across which are conducted a veritable zoo of vehicles: fully loaded trucks, with marginal brakes and drivers going for broke anyway; full-size buses, one and three-quarters lanes wide; small public minivans, stopping anywhere and with no warning for passengers; the occasional private car; scores of motorcycles, most of them small twostroke affairs, usually piled with goods or, at the hands of a young hotshot, screaming along at full throttle; horse-drawn passenger carts; becaks, bicycle rigs that carry a passenger in front; bicycles, with perhaps some children fore and aft, and almost always piled with produce, or perhaps two fighting cocks in their cages; and, of course, pedestrians of all ages. Public Minivans In the relatively few places in West Papua with developed road systems—major cities, some of the smaller villages and parts of the Baliem Valley—the standard Indonesian form of mass transport, the "Colt" or minivan, plies the road. Along the regular route, these vehicles are quite cheap, but since their drivers always wait for a full load before departing and often swing through populated areas to round up passengers, they are a test of one's patience. Minivan Charters You can charter any of the public minivans that ply the roads for the day or for one-way trips to a specific location. Keep in mind that West Papua is off the beaten path and things like auto parts and fuel are expensive. Driving On Your Own Driving in Indonesia is not for the faint-hearted.

TRANSPORTATION Vehicles and creatures of every size, shape and description charge onto the road out of nowhere. The traffic is horrendous on the main highways. Drive slowly and carefully. Road construction sites are not marked and few cyclists have reflectors for use at night. The condition of road networks has considerably improved in recent years, however, and driving off the beaten track is one of the best ways to explore the territory. Check your fuel gauge regularly as there are few gas stations away from the main roads. Small roadside fuel shops, indicated by a "Premium" sign, sell gasoline for the bit more than the Pertamina stations. A valid international license is required for driving cars and motorbikes. Insurance is not compulsory, but strongly recommended. You can get a policy from most of the rental companies and travel agents. Check the condition of the car before signing the contract. Beware: vehicles are usually rented with an empty tank. More important than the agency you rent from is to check and test-drive the car before renting. Chartering a Car or Minibus This can be the best way to handle a land tour as you have the freedom to stop whenever things look interesting, and the flexibility to try some less traveled routes. This can also be an economical alternative if you can fill up a van. A van can take up to 7, but you need extra space if you are to be in it for a few days, so 5 passengers is maximum. Some asking around will quickly give you an idea of where to hire a driver and what the local going rates are for a specific excursion or longer itinerary. A full day of driving one-way will cost from $50-$80 and a 5-day trip around $300. Much of this is for fuel, so distance is a major factor. Most of the rest goes to the owner of the vehicle and only a tiny percentage left for the driver. You pay for the driver's meals and accommodations, both while he is with you and on hisjoumey back home. A tip of Rp5,000 per day is also appreciated if the driver is good. The quality of both the driver and the vehicle will figure heavily in the enjoyability of your trip so don't be shy about checking both out before striking a deal. Your driver should be responsible and have a personality that won't grate on you. If he knows the area and can speak some English, so much the better. Travel agents can also arrange such charters for you. Ojek Motorcycle taxis where passengers ride pillion on the back seat are usually parked at bus stations and major crossroads. They can get you to obscure destinations. Bargain before getting on.

190 ON THE ROAD Indonesian Language Primer Personal pronouns I saya we kita (inclusive), kami (exclusive) you anda (formal), saudara (brother, sister), kamu (for friends and children only) he/she dia they mereka Forms of address Father/Mr Bapak ("Pak") Mother/Mrs Ibu ("Bu") Elder brother Abang ("Bang" or "Bung") Mas (in Java only) Elder sister Mbak (in Java only) Elder brother/sister Kakak ("Kak") Younger brother/sister Adik ("Dik") Note: These terms are used not just within the family, but generally in polite speech. Basic questions How? Bagaimana? How much/many? Berapa? What? Apa? What's this? Apa ini? Who? Siapa? Who's that? Siapa itu? What is your name? Siapa namanya ? (Literally: Who is your name?) When? Kapan? Where? Di mana? Why? Ken a pa? Mengapa? Which? Yang mana? Civilities Welcome Selamat datang Good morning (7-llam ) Selamat pagi Good midday (llam-3pm) Selamat slang Good afternoon (3-7pm) Selamat sore Goodnight (after dark) Selamat malam Goodbye (to one leavii rig) Selamat jalan Goodbye (to one staying) Selamat tinggal Note: Selamat is a word from Arabic meaning "May your time (or action) be blessed." How are you? Apa kabar? 1 am fine. Kabar balk Thank you. Terima kasih. You're welcome. Kembali. Same to you. Sama . Pardon me Ma'af Excuse me Permisi sama. (when leaving a conversation, etc). Numbers 1 satu 2 dua 3 tiga 4 empat 5 lima 11 sebelas 12 dua belas 13 tiga belas 20 dua puluh 50 lima puluh 73 tujuh puluh tiga 1,000,000 satujuta 2,000,000 duajuta half setengah first pertama second kedua Time minute me nit hour jam (also clock/watch) day hah 6 enam 7 tujuh 8 delapan 9 sembilan 10 sepuluh 100 seratus 600 enam ratus 1,000 seribu 3,000 tiga ribu 10,000 sepuluh ribu third ketiga fourth ke'empat S u n d ay Hah Minggu Monday Hah Sen in Tuesday Hah Selasa Wednesday HariRabu Pronunciation and Grammar /ow< a e i 0 u ai au ;ls As in father Three forms: 1) Schwa, like the 2) Like e in touche 3) Short e; as in bet Usually like longe (as in Bali); when bounded by consonants, like short i (hit). Long o, like go Long u, like you Long i, like crime Like ow in owl Consonants c g h k kh r ng ngg ny Always like ch in church Always hard, like guard Usually soft, almost unpronounced. It is hard between like vowels, e.g. mahal (expensive). Like ki n kind; at end of word, unvoiced stop. Like kind, but harder Rolled, like Spanish r Soft, like fling Hard, like tingle Like ny in Sonya Grammar Grammatically, Indonesian is in many ways far simpler than English. There are no articles (a, an, the). The verb form "to be" is usually not used. There is no ending for plurals; sometimes the word is doubled, but often number comes from context. And Indonesian verbs are not conjugated. Tense is communicated by context or with specific words for time.

' LANGUAGE PREMIER 191 week minggu month bulan year tahun today hari ini tomorrow besok What time is it? (It is) eight thirty. (Literally: "half nine") How many hours? Berapajam? When did you arrive? Kapan datang? Four days ago. Empat hariyang lalu. When are you leaving? Kapan berangkat? In a short while. Sebentar lagi. Thursday Hari Kamis Friday Hari Jum'at Saturday Hari Sabtu later nanti yesterday kemarin Jam berapa? Jam setengah sembilan Useful words yes ya Note: Tidak is used with with nouns. and dan with dengan for untuk from dari good baik very good bagus more lebih less kurang to be ada to buy membeli to know tahu big besar to need perlu to go pergi slow pe/a/i to wait tunggu to /<e old tua, lama full peni/ft quiet sepi few sedikit cold d/ng/n clean bers/fr entrance masuk no, not t/cfa/<, buAan verbs or adverbs; bukan better /eb/T? £>a/7< worse kurang baik this/these ini that/those itu same sama different lain here di sini there di sana to be able to bisa correct betul wrong salah small ftec/7 to want ingin to stop berhenti fast cepat to continue te/x/s at di new bartv empty kosong crowded, noisy ramai many banyak hot pa/ias dirty kotor exit keluar Small talk Where are you from? Dari mana? I'm from the US. Saya cfar/ Amerika. How old are you? Umurnya berapa? I'm 3 1 years old. Umur saya tiga pulu satu tahun. Are you married? Sudah kawin belum? Yes, I am. Yah, sudah. Not yet. Belum. Do you have children? What is your religion? Where are you going? I'm just taking a walk. Please come in. Please sit down. Sudah punya anak? Agama a pa? Mau ke mana? Jalan-jalan saja. Silahkan masuk. Silahkan duduk. Hotels room kamar towel handuk bathe mandi hot water air panas Where's a losmen? Di mana ada losmen? bed tempat tidur bedsheet sprei bathroom kamar mandi cheap losmen losmen yang murah good hotel hotel yang baik Please take me to... Tolong antar saya ke... Are there any empty rooms? Ada kamar kosong? Sorry, there aren't any. Ma'af, tidak ada. How much for one night? Berapa untuk satu ma I am? One room for two people. Dua orang, satu kamar. I'd like to stay for 3 days. Saya mau tinggal tiga hari. Here's the key to the room. Ini kunci kamar. Please call a taxi. Tolong panggilkan taksi. Please wash these clothes. Tolong cucikan pakaian ini. Restaurants to eat makan to drink minum drinking water air putih, air mimun breakfast makan pagi, sarapan lunch makan siang dinner makan mat am Where's a good restaurant? Di mana ada rumah makan yang baik? Let's have lunch. Mari kita makan siang. May I see the menu? Boleh saya lihat daftar makanan? I want to wash my hands. Saya mau cuci tangan. Where is the toilet? Di mana kamar kecil? fish, squid, goat, beef, chicken ikan, cumi-cumi, kambing, sapi, ayam salty, sour, sweet, spicy (hot) asin, asam, manis, pedas Shopping cheap murah expensive mahal Please, speak slowly. Tolong, berbicara lebih pelan. I want to buy... Saya mau beli... Where can I buy... Di mana saya bisa beli... How much does this cost? Berapa harga ini? 2,500 Rupiah. Dua ribu, lima ratus rupiah. That cannot be true! Masa! That's still a bit expensive. Masih agak mahal May I bargain? Boleh tawar? Is there a discount? Ada diskon? Thanks, I already have one/some... Terima kasih, saya sudah punya ... Directions here di sini there di sana near dekat far jauh inside di dalam outside di luar map peta street jalan north utara south selatan east timur west barat central pusat middle tengah left kiri right kanan straight terus turn belok I am looking for this address. Saya carl alamat ini. How far is it? Berapa jauh dari sini? Which area? Daerah mana?

I For those who venture out of the city, there are limestone caves for exploration just outside of Biak town, and excellent snorkeling, diving and birding in Supiori, the Padaido Islands and Yapen. Numfor Island has been hailed as an island paradise. Prices are in US$. Telephone code is 0961. AC = Air-conditioning. TRANSPORTATION Getting There Biak is well served by both Garuda Indonesia and Merpati Airlines. Always check with the airlines for current schedules and prices. Garuda. District Manager fi" 21331, 23116, 21199. Ticket office: JI. Sudirman 3, fi" 21416. Jakarta M, W,F,Sun $478 Jayapura M, Tu, Th, Sa $ 81 Makassar M. Tu, Th, Sa $288 Merpati. JI. M. Yamin 1, opposite the airport, fi" 21213, 21386, 21416. Telex: 76186 MNA IA. Some national flights: Jakarta Daily (via Surabaya, Makassar.) $556 Manado W,S (via Sorong, Biak) $229 Some local flights: Bintuni M,Th, Sa (via Manokwari) Enarotali W,F,Su (via Nabire) Fakfak M,Tu,W,F (via Nabire) Jayapura Daily Kaimana M,Tu,W,F (via Nabire) Manokwari Daily Nabire M, W, Th, F, Sa, Su Numfor M, F Serui Daily except Su Sorong M, W,Th,Sa Timika TU,W,F,Su Pelni. JI. Sudirman 27. fi" 21065, 21593; fax: 22225. The Ciremai and Dobonsolo arrive in Biak on Saturdays and run to Jayapura and Sorong every 10 days or so. Deck passage, no food provided. They have two ships doing circle routes, Jayapura-Sorong, calling at Sarmi, Serui, Biak, Nabire, and Manokwari. Getting into Town Inside the airport or just outside, minibus and taxi drivers compete for your business. The town is just 2 km away and the rate varies according to your bargaining skills and command of Indonesian, usually settling at around $3. You can catch a public minibus to town on the main road just outside the airport for Rp300. Hotel Arumbai and the Titawaka Home hotel usually have a bus waiting at the airport for their guests. The Irian Hotel is about 100m from the terminal and you can have one of the airport porters haul your luggage there for about $1. Getting Around MinibusjTaxis. Within Biak itself, minibuses are abundant and make frequent runs to the ends of the paved roads. But first they wait at the terminal next to the Inpres Market until they overflow with passengers. The public minibuses charge Rp300 around town. Chartered taxis in town are $3jhr. To Bosnik by public transportation is Rp800. Round-trip charter to Bosnik, including waiting time, about $10. Public transportation to Korem, Rp500; round-trip charter, including waiting time, $20. Minibuses run much less frequently after dark, so unless you return to Bosnik, Korem or Wardo before 6 pm, you might have a 2- 3 hour wait-or have to sleep there. New roads between Sorendiweri-Yenggarbun and Korido-Yemdoker make Supiori more accessible. A section running between Yemdoker and Sorendiweri is still under construction. Local transportation runs to Supiori or you can charter. Local boat travel. The double outriggered, outboard-powered canoes are locally called "Johnson," although the engines today are all Yamaha's. It's cheapest if you go as one of many paying passengers. They run most frequently on market days- Wednesday and Saturday. Boats departing for the Padaido Islands leave from Bosnik, to north Biak and north Supiori from Korem, to south Supiori from Wardo. Motorized canoes from various villages arrive either the aftemoon before or on the moming of market days, to return home that day or the following morning. Prices depend on distance and vary from

BIAK $2-$6. Some boats have a little roofed cabin, others don't, so be prepared for hot sun or rain. You can return on the next market day. Some of these boats can also be chartered, with prices depending on distance and your bargaining skills in Indonesian. Anywhere from $30-$175 for a round trip. Plan on staying overnight to take full advantage of your journey and not to have to hurry back. Outrigger canoes can also be rented from the fishermen's cooperative in Biak town. Ask someone with some English-speaking skills to take you there and arrange things. Chartering to visitors is new, so it could take a day or two to arrange. Of course, travel agencies can set up everything, albeit at a higher cost. ACCOMMODATIONS Hotels and losmen here range from quite nice air-conditioned hotels to some very cheap digs for $4jnight. The Hotel Arumbai and Titawaka Home are under the same management. For information and reservations: fax 22372, or write to Titawaka Hotels, P.O. Box 536, Biak, West Papua, Indonesia. Prices include all meals. Hotel Arumbai combines Wisma Titawaka and Hotel Titawaka. The Wisma is at JI. Selat Makassar 24, 'lr 21835, 22159; fax: 22501. 24 rooms. On a little rise near the water. Nice staff and location. Has a display of traditional carvings with some items for sale. $34-$44 fan, $60-$100 AC. Hotel Titawaka. JI. Selat Makassar 3, 'lr 21835, 22159. 50 AC rooms, $28-$42. Titawaka Home JI. Monginsidi 14, P.O. Box 536, 'lr 21891,22005.24 rooms (12 old, 12 new). Located right on the sea. Tasteful decorations. $26 (old rooms), $45-$80 (new rooms), AC. Discounts of 15%-20% after first night. Hotel Irian. Across from the airport. JI. M. Yamin, P.O. Box 137, 'lr 21939, fax: 21458. 48 rooms (20 AC). Scheduled to be demolished, but in the meantime, it is a charming, if somewhat run-down, Dutch-built hotel. It retains a leisurely feel in its lobby and dining area. The bar is the only decent one in town. Nice view over a wide lawn to the sea. Watch out for the sea urchins if you go swimming. Shrine for Japanese war dead on front lawn. $18- $30 fan, $33-$45 AC, $39-$51 VIP. Hotel Mapia JI. A. Yani, 'lr 21383. 23 rooms. All rooms with ladle bath. Large traditional canoe in front. $7-$10 economy, $11- $14 fan, $14-$19 AC, all prices including breakfast. Losmen Maju JI. Imam Bonjol 45, 'lr 21841. 19 rooms with basic attached toilets. $10- $15 fan, $22-$28 AC, including breakfast. Losmen Solo JI. Monginsidi, 'lr 21397. Just off the seashore, run-down, fan, shared bathrooms. $7-$12. Sinar Kayu JI. Sisingamangaraja, 'lr 22137, 21933. 24 rooms. At the edge of town. $6-$10 193 shared bathrooms, $12-$18 fan, $21-$30 VIP, includes tax and breakfast. Hotel Biak Beach JI. Yospan, Marauw, P.O. Box 38, Biak 98111. 'lr 81005; fax: 81003. Fivestar lUxury on Marauw beach, 29 km from the airport. All rooms and suites face the sea, private balcony, AC and accorded luxuries. Cafe, restaurant, bar, conference facilities, complete sports and recreational facilities . $90, $110 cottage, $150-$500 suite. DINING The restaurants in Biak serve basic Indonesian and Chinese dishes, all quite tasty and moderately priced. The better hotels al l serve meals. Beer is just over $1 for a small bottle. The adventurous should try the spicy-hot dog meat (called R.W. and pronounced "air-vay") at the none-too-clean R.M. Menado. No sign for the restaurant-see map for location and ask around in the vicinity. $1 will get you a lot of bony chunks of dog. Asia JI. Sudirman. Varied menu, cheaper than other restaurants. More spacious, but darker and less businesslike than the others. Cleopatra JI. A. Yani. Pleasant in good weather, with outdoor tables under umbrellas. Inexpensive. Chicken dishes $3; shrimp $3.50; fish $3. Less varied menu than other restaurants. Himalaya JI . Sudirman. Hard liquor $10jbottle or $1.50jshot. Chicken, pigeon, shrimp, beef, pork, crab, frog or squid, fish $2-$6. Jakarta JI. Imam Bonjol 58, 'lr 21969. Simple Indonesian dishes $1-$1.25, crab $3, squid $2.50, beef $2.50, large fish $4, shrimp $3. The only place in town serving trepang, $3. Megaria JI. Sudirman. Asparagus soup, chicken, crab, beef, pigeon, fish, squid, $3-$8. Minang Jaya JI. A. Yani, 'lr 21591. Typical Pandang-style. All you can eat for $2-$5. Restaurant 99 JI. Imam Bonjol. Small, Chinese-style. $2-$5. Open in front with AC rooms at side and back. BANKS The Bank Mandiri on JI. A. Yani will change Amex, Mastercard, Visa Citicorp, Bank of America, Barkleys and Thomas Cook travelers' checks in $US, $A, £, ¥, D.M . and guilders at good rates. They will also take cash (if in perfect condition) ofthe above currencies as well as Singapore$. The Bank Rakyat down the street changes B of A, AmEx, Visa and Citicorp traveler's checks in $US, at an awful rate. Banks open 8am-3pm Mon through Fri. SHOPPING There are a few souvenir stores in town, including those at the Pasar Lama market. All the Titawaka

I 194 hotels sell some handicrafts. Bargain. Most of the items for sale are stone axes (which quickly fal l apart), penis gourds and string bags from Wamena, some bad Asmat carvings, and quite nice strings of glass and ceramic beads. The Biak carvings are the best of the lot. Biak style features ornate scrolls and curlicues, and the carved figures all feature big noses "to smell lies as they escape from people's lips." Markets There is not much excitement in Biak town, but a walk through the markets can always reveal new smells and surprises. There are two markets: Pasar Inpres on JI. Teuku Umar, next to the "terminal" or central taxi station. Here you can find fresh food and some dry goods. The Pasar Lama market, on JI. Selat Makassar, sells birds' of paradise skins, live cockatoos (about $40 for a young, healthy one that can say: "Selamat Pagi!" with some ski ll), Chinese ceramics, dry goods, clothes and household items. (Of course, don't even think about buying the live birds or illegal paradise bird plumes.) TOURS Biak Paradise Tour and Travel JI. Selat Makassar, 'lr 21835, at the Hotel Arumbai. Mr. Joop Tetelepta, who speaks English and Dutch , runs day tours of Biak. Various buses are available, for $4- $13/hour depending on size of group. Mr. Tetelepta's daily guide fee is $40. For a visit to the Japanese cave, add $5; for the bird park, , PRACTICALITIES add $2. Fire-walking $100; traditional dances $90, plus $65 for local traditional singing. The agency can set up a birdwatching tour to Yobi on Yapen Island for $150-$390. Sentosa Tosiga JI Imam Bonjol 42, 'lr 21398, 21956; fax: 21988. As elsewhere, tours are expensive for just one or two clients, but the perperson price drops dramatically for a large group. City tours, including the caves and beach, run $17- $30 for two, $52-$80 if a dance is included. A tour to Korem beach costs $22; to the Padaido Islands (Urip, Mansubabo and Nusi) $90; Owi and Auki, $85. Janggi Prima Tour and Travel JI. Pramuka 5. 'lr 21673, 22973; fax: 21673. Ganda Irjaya JI. Imam Bonjol 16. 'lr 21616, 21720. RUMSRAM is a local NGO that is developing community-based eco-tourism. They have built 4 guest cottages on Dawi Island in the Padiado group. $5/person for simple accommodations. Bring food from Biak and the villagers will cook for you. There's good fish ing and snorkeling with some equipment avai lable for rent ($5 for fins, mask and snorkel). Dawi Island is 2 and one-half hours from Saba, 4 hours from Hotel Irian by boat. Contact Decky or Emi Rumaropen, c/o RUMSRAM, Box 211, Biak, 'lr 22189. DIVING Biak Diving Centre JI. Yospan, Marauw, P.O. Box 138, biak 98111. 'lr 81005; fax: 81003. On the beach of luxurious 5-star Biak Beach Hotel in

BIAK Marauw vi llage, 28 km from Biak city. Offers daily marine tours for divers and non-divers. Provides diving equipment, fiberglass and traditional wooden dive boats, glass-bottom boats and friendly professional local dive guides. MISCELLANEOUS Post office. The main office is on JI. A. Yani, towards the airport. There is a branch office on JI. Sudirman, in town. Both are open 8am-5 pm. Medical. The hospital is Rumah Sakit Umum, on JI. Sriwijaya Ridge 1, "Ii" 21294. Some of the doctors speak passable English. Pharmacies include Apotik Cenderawasih, JI. Imam Bonjol 34, "Ii" 21754, and Apotik Gandawati. JI. A. Yani. Bookstore. Pojok Buku, JI. Mongonsidi 18, "Ii" 21425, 21498. Some English language books, including the best missionary literature on West Papua. Numfor Island Boats make the run to Numfor once or twice a week: from Biak (8-9 hrs, $6) and from Manokwari (5 hrs, $4.50). Upon arrival, report in at the camat(govemment official)'s office and take your passport and surat ja/an to the police. You should still have a good half-day left to explore the island. If you can afford it, hire a motorized canoe and spend two or three days motoring around •• ~ff;~f;if' -\ \--CBi;~~n \\ \ \ • Lodging \:\ \ 1\ 1. Hotel Irian \ \ _____ --!.-\ \ \ 2. Losmen Maju ----'".,.\ '\ 3. Hotel Mapia ,- \~\ \ \ 4. Losmen Solo \-;..\ \ \ 5. Titawaka Home Stay \ \ \ \ 6. Hotel Arumbai - \ \ \ with travel agency + \\\ \ ice· cream palace \~r=-:~---_- 7· Losmen Sina r Kayu __ 8. Basana Inn l_ _ ----- 9· Hotel Titawaka - 10. Hotel Dah lia -------- 195 the island, sleeping in villages along the way. While actual travel time is only some 10 hours, stopping at various villages and exploring the deep inlet at Bawei will make this joumey much more memorable than a quick zip around . Much of the island is fronted by wide tidal flats, and you can travel close to shore only at high tide. Plan on spending one night at Namber, the most beautiful part of Numfor. Boat rental costs $12 per hour of actual motoring time. Hiring or riding on the back of a motorcycle is an altemate way to explore the island. Motorcycle rental (with driver) is $4.50 half day; $7.50 full day. Guide/porter costs $6/day. The camat at Yemburwo, whose house is next to the landing strip, has spare bedrooms and his wife prepares good meals. Elsewhere, you could stay with the other cam at at Kameri, a village head, a schoolteacher, or anyone else with some extra space. Count on paying $4-$5/day. Market days at Yemburwo are Wednesday and Saturday (5:30am-7am). There is electricity only in Yemburwo, from 6pm to midnight. Bring snorkeling gear, hat, sunscreen and umbrella, air mattress, pillow and bedsheet. • Food 1. Asia Restaurant 2. Cleopatra Restaurant 3. Fish Market 4. Himalaya Restaurant 5. Inpres Market 6. R.M. Ri ndu Alam 7. R.M. Jawa Timur 8. Pujasera Food Stalls 9. R.M. Ratu Kuring 10. Rumah Makan 99 11. R.M. Bakmi Jakarta 12. R.M, Sop Saudara -updated by Ka/ Muller __ 1\ I, __ ' J l . Bo3 N:L~ to Bosnik -- ------.'.'"'.~, .. ""-'''- f.-----.. " .. ".".," .. "'..~ \ to Hotel Biak. Aerowisata ex. Hotel Marauw

2 Jayapura PRACTICALITIES INCLUDES SENTANI

JAYAPURA 197 Nabire T, F $131 Timika Daily $ 83 Wamena 2 times daily (except Tu) $ 62 Garuda flies between Jayapura and Biak four times each week on Mon, Tues, Thurs, and Sat ($31). Check with the MAF (Missionary Aviation Fellowship) office (« 91059, 91062; fax: 91063) and the AMA (Associated Mission Aviation) office (« 91009), both near the Sentani airport for their schedules or the possibility of chartering a plane. All requests for charter flights much be received in writing at least 2 weeks in advance. By Sea Pelni Jl. Halmahera 1, ?r 533070; fax: 533370. P.T. Pelayaran Nasional Indonesia's huge passenger ships Rinjani, Umsini, Ciremai and Dobonsolo call at Jayapura every 15 days. Pelni has other ships where deck passage is available, for example to Biak and Sorong about twice a month. Yotefa shipping lines. Jl. Percetakan 90A, s- 31687, telex: 76148 YAKJ. They have 200- ton coasters that take up to 75 deck passengers from Jayapura to Sorong (and points between) about once a month; from Merauke to Fakfak and to Aru, about every six weeks. See Transportation section (page 184) for routes. Getting Around Jayapura is compact and you can walk around most of the town, but to reach Sentani and the beaches, you need transport. The hub of the public transport system (minibus) is the taxi terminal in Entrop. Drivers wait for a full load before leaving. Prices are 15$-40$ to nearby destinations (Base G, Abepura, etc.). Renting a minivan with driver locally runs $5-$10/hr, with a day rate of about $50, or $60-$80 if further away than Lake Sentani. ACCOMMODATIONS Jayapura is well provided with a number of airconditioned hotels, as well as losmen catering to the budget traveler. Most places include a simple breakfast. Dafonsoro Jl. Percetakan Negara 20/24 , ?? 31695, fax: 31696. 27 rooms. AC, restaurant. $20-$23. Hotel 99 Jl. Argapura I, No. 2, s 35689, 34959. 15 rooms. Simple, but clean and bright; view of the harbor. $10-$18 fan, $20-$25 AC, including morning and afternoon snack, plus tax. Hotel Agung Jl. Argapura 37, <a 32046. 27 rooms. Tidy, but a bit out of town. $14-$18 fan, $22-$33 AC. Losmen Kartini Jl. Perintis 2, s 31557. 12 rooms, quite clean. $5-$9 outside bath $5S, $9D, $12 with attached bath, $12D. Losmen Lawu Jl. Sulawesi 22 (Doc. 8), about 4 km from downtown, s- 41937. 15 rooms, 4 with AC. $4.50-$8 fan, $8-$14 AC. Losmen Sederhana Jl. Halmahera 2 •s- 31157. 20 rooms. Simple $6-$13 fan and outside bath, $9-$19 AC and attached bath. Matoa Jl. Ahmad Yani 14, <& 31633, fax: 31437. Two stars—the only international standard hotel in town. All rooms AC, color TV/video, minibar, dining room/bar, helpful staff, taxis in front.

I 198 $45-60, $100 suite. Breakfast for tour groups. Numba JI. Trikora 1, about 5 km from downtown, close to the bemo/taxi route Doc 5. 'lr 33394, 34185. Run-down, but clean , quiet; nice location, AC. $20- $24. Triton JI. Ahmad Yani 52, P.O. Box 33, 'lr 33218, 33171.24 rooms. Color1V/video, AC. $18--$45. Sentani All include simple breakfast, police for suratjalan, and transportation to the airport. Hotel Ratna nearthe airport, 91435. 16 rooms. $14- 22 AC, including tax, breakfast, transport to the airport. Kartini Hotel JI. Sentani, 'lr 91478. 17 rooms. $28-$33, all AC . Mansapur Rani Guest House 200 meters from the terminal, JI. Jaboso 113. 20 rooms. $7. Minang Jaya Just off the main road to Jayapura, past airport tumoff. 25 rooms. $9- $15 fan and attached bath, $15- $18 AC. Semeru Hotel JI. Yabaso, 'lr 91447.19 rooms. $17 fan, $22 AC, plus 10% tax. Sentani Inn 3 km from the airport on the main road to Jayapura. 16 rooms. Clean, friendly staff. $9- $16 fan , $12- $16 AC. DINING Hawaii Next to the movie house, just off the park downtown- good box lunches, shrimp, chicken dishes; reasonably priced, good service, AC. Himalaya JI. Matahari, half block from JI. A. Yani. Cold beer. Chicken, pigeon, frog, shrimp, beef $4-$El; simple, fi lling Chinese dishes $1.50-$2. Jaya Grill JI. Koti #5, 'lr 34783. On the water, towards the main docks, enclosed, AC. Seafood, chicken, pork, $5-$6; steaks (from Jakarta) $8- $10; simple Chinese/Indonesian dishes $1.50-$2.50; wide variety of booze. Open 10:30 am-2:30 pm and 6:30 pm-10:30 pm. Mandala Cafeteria JI. Soa Sin, 'lr 31908, Good for large groups (30 and up). Food and prices much the same as anywhere else in town. Matoa Restaurant in the Matoa Hotel. Pleasant, modem dining room (at last check, stil l waiting for cook who can prepare European food). Bloody Mary, Singapore Sling $4, seafood dishes $6-$15, chicken $5-$10, beef $4-$15, soups $8- $19, abalone $32, also, a few cheaper Indonesian/ Chinese dishes. Nirwana JI. Ahmad Yani 40, on the main drag. Good selection of Padang style food, AC. About $3- $4 for a meal; grilled ikan mas (goldfish). Padang Simpang Tiga JI. Percetakan 92. Large, clean, Padang style, reasonable prices. Pondok Ria Wisata Restaurant JI. Soa Sin Dor II, near the Governor's Office, 'lr 32011. Indonesian/Chinese dishes. You can pick fresh fish , squid and lobster out front. Prices similar to Jaya Gril l. Open 10am-2pm, 5pm-10:30pm. Prima Bakery JI. Ahmad Yani, right across from PRACTICALITIES the Matoa Hotel. Jayapura's most popular hangout. Indonesian and Western baked goods (delectable black forest cake, eclairs). It's thousands of kilometers to the next cappuccino and espresso machines. Nowhere to sit inside-pick a spot on the front steps with the locals. Yotefa JI. Percetakan 64. Nicely decorated; European and Indonesian food, cold beer. Chicken, shrimp, squid dishes, $2- $3; fish , to $5 depending on size; rice and noodle dishes $1- $2. Warungs and food stalls Lively night market in front of the Pelni office, serving bakso, soto madura, bubur, lots offried bananas and other tasty snacks. A bit further, towards the harbor, on JI. Halmahera, there are cloth-draped stalls serving delicious, inexpensive grilled fish and squid-big fish steaks $2, whole fish $4. Good ambiance. Other stalls line up JI. A. Yani near the mosque, including an excellent fried noodle and fried rice stall just across from the Triton Hotel. For one-stop dinner and dessert, try the martabak/terang bulan stalls found throughout the city. Martabaks, a substantial vegetable omelette, are the main course, for only $1. For afters, take away a terang bulan ("fu ll moon"), a thick pancake filled with peanuts and chocolate, 50¢. Cheap, fast and filling. Sentani Mickey's (Chinese and some Western fare), 'lr 91339) and Virgo ( 91193) are recommended. I BANK The best exchange rate is found at the Mandiri Bank on JI . Ahmad Yani. 8am-1pm. Quick, pleasant service. They change US$, A$, £ , ¥ , D.M., Swiss Francs and guilders at good rates. Travelers ' checks exchanged: American Express, Bank of America, Bank of Credit and Commerce, Barclays, and Citicorp (in US$); Sumitomo (in ¥); and Cooks (in US$, £, and Swiss Francs). MEDICAL Puskesmas (health cl inic) Doc 2. Dr. Toni Pranato is the malaria and dengue specialist. Dr. Oey Reputedly the best doctor in the area is retired, but will sti ll see patients. His office is on the highway halfway between Jayapura and Sentani. 'lr 21789. Dr. Oey speaks English and German; his nurse (also his wife) speaks French. Hours: 5pm- 9pm M,W,F. Dr. Manapa JI . Irian, 'lr 34465 (office), 33473(home) Dr. Manapa speaks English. For malaria or other blood tests, go to the Laboratorium Klinik Medika, JI. Percetakan Negara 11/4. Central and competent, but take a

JAYAPURA book-there's always a long wait. Dr. Ana speaks English . Open 5pm-l1pm, Mon thru Fri. Other emergency numbers in Sentani/ Jayapura: Dr. Doli at Puskesmas 'll" 91408, Dr. Krujt 'll" 91024, Dr. Oyong'll" 34567. For dental emergencies, drive to Doyo Baru and see Bob Roberts. SHOPPING Store hours in Jayapura generally run from 8am-noon, and then again from 5pm-9pm. Souvenirs can be found at the hotel stores, at the shop attached to the University of Cenderawasih Museum and the Museum Negeri (see page 82) and at the Perindustrian office in Abepura. In Hamadi Market there are many stalls selling penis gourds ($1). net bags ($5-$7), stone axes from the highlands ($5-$7), and small Asmat carvings ($15-$20). If you want your tourist dollars to go directly to the local craftspeople, you can visit the following organizations: PPPW (Protestant Women's Development Foundation) just a few km past the university in Padang Bulan on the road to Sentani. Woven baskets, jewelry, bark paintings, carvings . KKW (Women's Workgroup), also in Padang Bulan. Accessories and gift bags. TMF (The Missionary Foundation) in the Protestant Mission Center, JI. Sam Ratulangi. Sells a variety of local crafts, as well as Christmas ornaments carved from coconut shell. Irian Batik JI. Percetakan (main outlet). Much more brightly colored and boldly pattemed than the Javanese-style batik. Produced by a local NGO (non-government organization) and sold in stores throughout the city. Main designs are geckos, crocodiles and Asmat-style motifs. Newsweek, Time and the Jakarta Post (English-language daily) are sometimes available at Toko Buku Labor ('ll" 33173) on JI. Sarn Ratulangi next door to the Airfast shipping office. WATERSPORTS Kolam Renang Tirta Mandela, an oceanside, saltwater swimming pool is at Doc 5, JI Samudra #42. This huge outdoor facility has changing rooms, a restaurant and lights for night swimming. Open every day except Thurs, 8am-9pm. $1/visit. Lumba-Lumba Dive School also operates at Doc 5. They rent diving equipment and run halfand full-day diving excursions. EXCURSIONS Boating in the harbor. Rent a catamaran (40HP motor, around $15/hr) and cruise Yos Sudarso Bay to Kayu Island with its church and Kosong Island with its mosque. There is a beached 199 World War II arnphibious assault tank on Debi Island in Yotefa Bay. Visit Lake Sentani. Nearby, island-dotted Lake Sentani makes a pleasant day's diversion. Motorized dugout canoes rent for $15/ hour; paddled canoes, negotiable. There are only 2 places certain to rent, Jahim and Yougga Restaurant. Jahim, the "rnarket harbor" or pelabuhan pasar, is at the end of a side road that runs by the Sentani town market and ends at the lake. There canoes are stationed usually at here least , waiting half a dozen to ferry dugout pasI . sengers to the shoreside villages. ~ • Yougga Restaurant, 22 kms from Jayapura, is right next to the rnain road and Lake Sentani. Motorboats rent for $16/hr. There is also a 1(}' room los men at this pretty little lakeside setting ($14- $20, including breakfast). The restaurant specializes in ikan mas (literally, "goldfish," but bigger than the ornamental variety and as tasty as perch) and tilapia, an imported species locally called mujahir, served grilled or fried ($2-$10, depending on size). The place is quiet on weekdays and busy on weekends. Visit Engros village. Engros is a fishing village perched on stilts on an island off Abe beach. Catch a minibus from Abepura to Abe beach (15¢) from where you can be taken to Engros by motorboat for $5. Once you get there, a nice old man will set up mattresses in the "Iosrnen " for you and and fill the "bath". If you want to eat fresh grilled fish, ask for it ahead of time ($1.50-$6, depending on size). For about $50, you can commission a dance. Twenty to 30 men wearing old beads, traditional decorations, and loin cloths. At low tide, watch the soccer rnatches next to the village. At high tide, the village perches above some 1.5 meters of water. This is a typical fishing village, with friendly people and few tourists. Visit Depapre. By public minibus, Depapre is 2 hours from Jayapura and costs $2 with several changes of "taxis." Get your suratjalan checked at the police post. From there, you can charter a boat for $15 to take you up to Tanah Merah Bay, drop you off at a nice beach with good snorkeling. The boat can pick you up later in the day. Or ask to be taken to the beach village of Amai , where a local NGO, YPMD (Rural People's Development Foundation) has built bungalows which are available for low-impact, vi llage-centered tourism. If you stay in the village, you will be expected to leave a small donation. -updated by Ann Rocchi/Dave Cox

200 PRACTICALITIES Shaped like the head of the cassowary bird, West Papua's westernmost tip offers a wide variety of activities. Manokwari, the site of the first missionary post in West Papua, is the district capital. Superb diving and snorkeling is the attraction of Cenderawasih Bay. Sorong, an industrial city, is the departure point for birding in the Raja Empat Islands and the pearl farm on Kabra Island. And, off the beaten track, there are the rock paintings accessible through Fakfak, Kokas, and Kaimana on the Bomberai peninsula, one of the most beautiful parts of the Indonesian archipelago. C Prices in US $. AC=Air-conditioning. I Manokwari ~!o~e~~~~!,i is spread around Dore Bay with two main areas: Kota, where most of the bigger shops and hotels are situated and Sanggeng, where the taxi terminal, markets and the Hotel Mutiara are located. TRANSPORTATION By Air Merpati has one scheduled daily flight between Manokwari and Jayapura on Tuesday ($158). Departure time is 7 am from Jayapura and 12:40 pm from Manokwari. Call ahead to confirm . 'B" 21133, 21153 (office at JI. Kota Baru 39), 'B" 21004 (at the airport). Other national flights: MAF. Missionary Aviation Fe llowship flies a Cessna 185 to many remote strips in the interior. They take passengers on a space-available 1. Hotel Mutiara N 0~i~:~s~f:.awaSi'Y' 2. Losmen Apose 3. Hotel Arfak 4. Hotel Maluku 5. Hotel Mokwam 6. Hotel Mulia 7. Hotel Pusaka 8 . Coto Makassar 9. Hawai 10. Lumajang 11. New Garden 12. Padang Merantau 13. Soponyono 14. Sukasari 15. Nightfood stall s A Not to scale o '" ~ ~ o ~ " ~ Jc PERC o.e® Er4f{A,N ~ Amban Beach I Manokwari Japanese War Memorlal* Gunung Meja Park * Panti Asuhan Santo .. VinsensiusjPiahase ;liSt. Augustinus o ll.. ~rn Bank Exim r "', Gallery Karwar .. aTaxi Terminal ..{J) .. Fis~'1\~~~eAire ~ ..... ~ Central Post Office "0 "-0 I r .,,~ "', "' To Rendani Airport, YSLBC, WWF, New Garden. Soponyono, Sukasari. 11, 13 & 14 Teluk Wasi Fruit & vegetable market ::: « ~ J, Harbor J" Dockyard \ ~~/~:jSO "Pelni Shopping OHospital Police * Tel u k Dareri