16 Status Magazine

WALDORF ASTORIA HOTEL at 301 PARK AVE 212 751 9824
509 MADISON AVENUE at 53RD STREET 212 888 0505
NEW YORK CITY CELLINIJEWELERS.COM 800 CELLINI

Necklace with more than 80 carats of diamonds set in platinum

Rings with cushion-cut and emerald-cut diamonds set in platinum

COLLECTIONS 26 CARTIER embarks upon a flight 42 GREUBEL FORSEY exemplifies

8 CELLINI JEWELERS spotlights of imagination with the revolutionary engineering, artistry and imagination
Rotonde de Cartier Astromystérieux. with the Double Tourbillon 30°
the latest trends for pearls and stacking Technique Sapphire.
bracelets and revisits some of our 34 CLERC builds wrist machines for
favorite “Ask the Expert” columns 46 H. MOSER & CIE. personifies
from iW Magazine. real-life adventurers with the Hydroscaph
Central Chronograph Small Second. subversively subtle design with the
18 A. LANGE & SÖHNE unveils an sporty Pioneer Perpetual Calendar.
36 GIRARD-PERREGAUX uses
exceptional masterpiece with the limited 48 HY T blurs the line between
edition Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon. avant-garde horology to solve an
age-old timekeeping challenge with modern and classic to create the
20 ARNOLD & SON maximizes the Constant Escapement L.M. striking H2 Tradition.

minimalism with the UTTE Skeleton, the 40 GIULIANO MAZZUOLI finds 52 IWC brings back color and
world’s thinnest skeletonized tourbillon.
unconventional inspiration in the daring tradition with the Big Pilot’s Watch
22 AUDEMARS PIGUET fuses icono- design of his new Cemento. Edition “Le Petit Prince.”

clastic and traditional design in the Royal
Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph.

60 JAEGER-LECOULTRE celebrates 74 ROGER DUBUIS enhances its FEATURES

85 years of iconic watch design with sophisticated appeal with the colorful 16 COMPLICATIONS
the sublime Reverso Tribute Calendar. Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double
Flying Tourbillon. Ryan Schmidt, author of The Wristwatch
64 LAURENT FERRIER expresses his Handbook, shares his five favorite watch
76 ULYSSE NARDIN translates its rich complications.
playful side by concealing the tourbillon
in the Galet Classic Square. nautical heritage into the extraordinary 56 CULINARY CAMEOS
Marine Tourbillon Grand Deck.
68 PARMIGIANI FLEURIER Get ready to love eating your veggies with
78 VACHERON CONSTANTIN our mouth-watering guide to New York
commemorates 20 years of technically City’s best vegetable-focused restaurants.
advanced horology with the Tonda exhibits style and substance in the
Chronor Anniversaire. Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Collection 86 BEST OF INSTAGRAM
Excellence Platine.
70 PIAGET breaks with tradition to Discover our favorite watch pictures from
82 WALTHAM takes flight in a new era Cellini’s Instagram account.
create the quintessential steel sports
watch, the Piaget Polo S. with the refined and streamlined design 88 CLOCKWISE
of the AN-01.
A glossary of horological terms.

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Michael Graziadei

ART DIRECTOR
PHOTO DIRECTOR

Samantha Hickey

MANAGING EDITOR
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER

Scott Hickey

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Jonathan Bues
Amy Cohen

Adam Craniotes
Victoria Gomelsky

Jason Heaton
James Lamdin
Stephen Pulvirent
Ryan Schmidt
Michael Thompson

COPY EDITOR

Rachel Young

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Vinnie Amessé
Massimo Gammacurta

David Katz

FOR A COMPLIMENTARY SUBSCRIPTION OR FOR

FURTHER INFORMATION, CALL 8OO.CELLINI
OR EMAIL [email protected]

VISIT OUR WEBSITE AT

CelliniJewelers.com

ABOUT THE COVER STATUS is an annual publication
The hard-candy watch on the cover was by Cellini Jewelers. Copyright ©2016
created and photographed by Massimo
Gammacurta, an award-winning New Reproduction without permission is prohibited
York-based photographer/multimedia
artist whose striking confectionary
creations have been shown in magazines,
ads and art shows around the world.

PHOTOGRAPH: VINNIE AMESSÉ President’s Letter

Dear Readers,
Welcome to Status, our annual celebration of horological artistry. In this issue, we highlight many of the
phenomenal timepieces unveiled this year, with stories about 19 of the most innovative watchmakers in
the world. From complicated haute horlogerie to simple two-handed timepieces, there’s something here
to tempt every kind of watch enthusiast.

This happens to be a special issue for us, because 2017 will mark Cellini Jeweler’s 40th anniversary.
It’s hard to image how much has changed since we first opened in 1977. At the time, the popularity of
quartz watches was growing and American collectors were only beginning to rediscover the art of mechan-
ical watchmaking. Today, smart watches have replaced quartz technology as the next big thing, but the
collector community is larger and more engaged than ever before. Even now, after seeing four decades of
the watch industry’s ups and downs, I still believe a mechanical watch — expertly engineered and art-
fully crafted — will continue to resonate with people who appreciate the beauty of a hand-made object.

Another reason 2017 will be significant for Cellini is that our flagship boutique in the Waldorf
Astoria Hotel will be forced to close permanently as the hotel shuts down for extensive and lengthy ren-
ovations. Our store on Madison Avenue will remain open and continue to offer the extensive selection of
exquisite timepieces and fine jewelry you have come to expect from Cellini Jewelers.

And finally, Cellini has re-launched its website, which now includes more features than ever before
designed to make it easier for you to compare watches from all of our brands, chat with Cellini’s watch
experts, and shop online. I hope you’ll visit us online today at CelliniJewelers.com.

As we approach this milestone anniversary, I would like to thank you all for your continuous support
and friendship through the years.
Sincerely,

Leon Adams
President
Cellini Jewelers

CELLINI JEWELERS PHOTOGRAPHS: DAVID KATZ

PEWAiRldLS

BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

YOUR GRANDMOTHER WOULDN’T
BELIEVE THE COLORS, SIZES

AND COMBINATIONS THAT NOW
CHARACTERIZE THESE ONCE
PRIM-AND-PROPER GEMS

Necklace and bracelet with multi-color baroque pearls, accented
with multi-color sapphires and diamonds, set in 18-karat gold.

Clockwise from top: South Sea pearl chandelier earrings set with diamonds and white topaz. South Sea pearl necklace with

round brilliant and marquise-cut diamonds. South Sea Pearl drop earrings with pavé-set diamonds. Baroque pearl bangles

with pavé-set diamonds and sapphires.

A brief survey of history’s bold-faced names, Chinese freshwater pearls in whimsical pastel shades,
from Cleopatra to Queen Elizabeth, proves from pink to lime-green.
that pearls have long rivaled diamonds for
most favored gem status. But to understand The wide assortment has fueled a cultured pearl
jewelry renaissance. “Designers are using pearls in more

why pearls — the vast majority of which are cultured — creative ways,” says Cellini Jewelers’ Frances Adams.

hold so much contemporary appeal, simply look to the “You can layer them with your diamonds or wear them

staggering variety of shapes and colors in which they during the day.”

are now available. Indeed, most designers are big believers in the value of

PHOTOGRAPHS: SCOTT HICKEY Whereas the classic white akoya — quite literally mixing, either combining pearls with diamonds and colored

your grandmother’s pearl — dominated generations past, stones, or mingling them with other pearls in a rainbow

today’s pearl lovers can choose from oversized golden of hues. The resulting looks are fresh, unexpected — and

South Sea pearls, baroque-shaped Tahitian pearls, and worthy of the pearl’s star turn on the world stage. ¨

CELLINI JEWELERS PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID KATZ

STACKS

BANRLEEATCWHKE

BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

WRIST ASSURED — DIAMOND AND
GEMSTONE BRACELETS WORN IN
MULTIPLES ARE THE CHICEST WAY
TO EMBRACE THE LAYERING TREND

Flexible bangles with white or brown round brilliant-cut diamonds set in 18-karat gold.

Clockwise from top: Ceramic stretch bracelets with white diamonds, and white gold bead bracelets with black diamonds.
Sapphire and diamond bracelets by Suzanne Kalan, with invisibly set sapphire and diamond ring. Bracelets with emerald
and diamonds. Bracelets with Burmese rubies, diamonds and sapphires, set in 18-karat gold.

PHOTOGRAPHS: SCOTT HICKEY Jewelers are maximalists by nature — and why bracelets in modern renditions are an especially fetch-
shouldn’t they be? “I have too much jewelry,” said ing way to embrace this trend.
no one ever (or so a popular meme would have us
believe). Stackable bracelets can be worn casually, moving up
The good news is there’s never been a better time to and down the arm, or in a more sophisticated style in
adopt the “more is more” aesthetic. A cursory glance at which they’re positioned in place. Either way, remember
Instagram or the latest celebrity fashions makes clear these loose rules: Wearing pieces in similar metals or
that layering jewelry is de riguer. That applies to neck- with similar stones (say, all diamonds) lends an outfit a
laces and rings, but perhaps most of all, to bracelets, clean and harmonious look, while mixing metals and
which are now regularly seen in stacks that approach stone colors is an easy way to add a dose of personality
the elbow. Paired with timepieces or slim cuffs, line to an ensemble. However you choose to wear your stacks,
you’re sure to be the life of the arm party. ¨

CELLINI JEWELERS

EAXsPkEARnT

For the last four
years, Cellini Jewelers
President Leon Adams
has appeared in iW Magazine,
answering readers’ questions about
fine timepieces in his column,
“Ask An Expert.” During that time,
he’s shared his insights about everything
from collecting and maintaining watches,
to explaining what makes them tick.

If you would like to
ask the expert a question
about watches, email us at
[email protected]

MY EYES AREN’T WHAT THEY USED TO BE.
WHAT WATCHES HAVE THE MOST LEGIBLE CALENDARS?

Traditionally, the size of the date display was limited made it possible to increase the legibility of the numerals
by its design, which uses a numbered ring that turns without expanding the case.
around the edge of the dial. As a result, the date cannot
be made larger without increasing the size of the case. Since then, others have introduced their own large
date displays, including great examples from Richard
I believe A. Lange & Söhne was the first to create a Mille and Girard-Perregaux. What’s nice is that big date
new kind of date complication in 1995, when it intro- displays also are being used in a growing number of
duced the company’s oversize date display in the Lange 1 perpetual calendar watches. Ulysse Nardin and H. Moser
and Saxonia. It also appeared the same year in the & Cie. in particular are producing some amazing big
Arkade, a ladies model that’s no longer in production. date perpetuals.
That watch had a small case that made the big date even
more striking. But even before Lange started this trend, others
found simpler ways to optimize the legibility of the date
Instead of a single ring, Lange’s date display is com- without creating a new complication. The most famous
prised of two pieces: a ring numbered 0 to 9 that turns is probably the Cyclops lens that was patented in 1953.
once a day, and an overlapping cross-shaped piece Essentially, it’s a magnifying lens attached to the crystal
numbered 1 to 3 (including a blank space) that advances that was designed to make the date easier to read.
once every 10 days. Inspired by the Five-Minute Clock in
Dresden’s Semper Opera House, this innovative design Now more than ever, you’ll find a wide selection of
calendar watches that won’t leave you squinting.

Lange 1 Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue
by A. Lange & Söhne by H. Moser & Cie.

13

CELLINI JEWELERS

ASK AN EXPERT WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN VERTICAL
AND HORIZONTAL CLUTCHES IN A CHRONOGRAPH?

W hen you activate the chronograph, you’re engaging is that high-end brands like A. Lange & Söhne can
the clutch, which is a device that controls the mitigate those drawbacks through precision engineering.
transmission of energy to the chronograph mechanism. Another reason is that the horizontal clutch is a beauti-
The two most common kinds of clutches are distin- ful thing to see in action through an exhibition caseback.
guished by the direction in which they move, either verti-
cally or horizontally. What the vertical clutch lacks in aesthetic appeal, it
makes up for in performance advantages. Its gears are in-
With a horizontal clutch, the wheel that turns the tegrated into the wheel train so they stay meshed all the
main time display’s seconds hand pivots laterally to time. This reduces wear and eliminates the jiggling sec-
interlock with the gear that turns the chronograph’s sec- onds hand. Also, a vertical clutch doesn’t affect amplitude,
onds hand. Because one gear is moving and the other is so the chronograph can run continuously without causing
stationary they don’t always mesh seamlessly, which is a drop in chronometric precision. However, one important
why you sometimes see the chronograph’s seconds hand downside to keep in mind is that a vertical clutch’s inte-
wobble slightly when it starts. Also, when the chrono- grated design is usually more expensive to service.
graph is running, the drag generated by the horizontal
clutch may result in a loss of amplitude that can cause a Regardless of your clutch preference, there are
decrease in timekeeping accuracy. plenty of great options out there, whether it’s the hori-
zontal Zenith El Primero 410, or the vertical Tonda
So why is this design so popular? Part of the reason Chronor Anniversaire.

El Primero 410 Tonda Chronor Anniversaire
by Zenith by Parmigiani Fleurier

14

Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar El Toro Perpetual Calendar
by Jaeger-LeCoultre by Ulysse Nardin

CAN I DAMAGE MY MECHANICAL WATCH
BY ADJUSTING THE TIME BACKWARD?

If your watch doesn’t have calendar indications or a vulnerable. If the watch has stopped and you’re not sure if
moon phase, turning the hands counter-clockwise the time showing is 10 a.m. or 10 p.m., turn the hands
shouldn’t cause problems. For example, if you fly from until you find midnight and then set the time outside the
New York to Los Angeles, it shouldn’t hurt the movement danger zone. As a reminder of this rule, Jaeger-LeCoultre
if you set the time back three hours when you land. But even added a special indicator to its Master Ultra Thin
to be certain, always consult the owner’s manual for your Perpetual Calendar. Located near the center of the dial, it
specific model. changes color when it’s unsafe to make adjustments. As a
precaution, I’ve gotten into the habit of setting the time to
It’s a different story, however, if your watch does 6:30 before I make any calendar adjustments to my watches.
include those functions, because moving the hour hand
backward through midnight can damage the gears that Having said that, there are some rare and notable
control the related displays. exceptions. A handful of brands — including H. Moser &
Cie. and Ulysse Nardin — produce movements that are
Furthermore, you risk inflicting costly damage to the specifically designed to avoid these risks. With these
movement if you attempt to make calendar adjustments watches, you will not damage the movement if you make
during certain hours. Never change a calendar display if an adjustment backward through midnight or during
the time indicated by the watch is between 9 p.m. and 2 that overnight danger zone. ¨
a.m., which is typically when the gears are in motion and

15

COMPLICATIONS ARNOLD & SON PHOTOGRAPH: SCOTT HICKEY

Embracing

COMPLICATION

Ryan Schmidt explores the intricacies and idiosyncrasies of
mechanical timepieces in his new book, The Wristwatch
Handbook. Packed with insight and images from more than
90 of the world’s finest brands, the 352-page book explains
not only how watch movements work, but also delves into the
vast range of watch functions. That’s why we asked Ryan to
share five of his favorite watch complications.

DUAL-TIME INDICATOR

DBG by Arnold & Son

A dual-timer is the perfect companion for the fre-
quent flyer or expat. There are various methods
to display dual time zones, from hour apertures to
reversible cases. One of the most elaborate is found
in the DBG, which features two dials regulated by
two independent escapements and balance wheels.
As a consequence, the two zones can be independent-
ly set to the minute rather than the hour. The shared
central seconds of the DBG serves to remind us that
even the most far-flung locations are still governed
by a uniform passage of time.

MICRO-ROTOR

Galet Micro-Rotor by Laurent Ferrier

Although a purist might argue that a rotor is not
a complication, they might also forgive me for
including the Laurent Ferrier Galet Micro-Rotor.
Certainly a technical complication, the micro-rotor
functions in the same way as a regular automatic
winding rotor, but the reduced diameter enables the
movement to retain a slimmer profile. Aesthetically,
you have the best of both worlds: automatic winding
and a full view of the bridges and escapement, which
in the case of the Galet Micro-Rotor are remarkably
well finished and rather exotic-looking thanks to the
“natural” escapement.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE & RICHARD MILLE PHOTOGRAPHS: SCOTT HICKEY MOVEMENT-SIDE POWER RESERVE

Endeavor Small Seconds by H. Moser & Cie.

Sometimes there is nothing better than seeing a
watch produced with great skill, but stripped
down to its simplest form. A manually wound
three-handed watch is the very height of elegance, but
with a movement that is 100-percent reliant on the dil-
igent winding of its wearer, a power reserve indicator
is a welcome function.There are some beautiful watch-
es with discreet dial-side reserve indicators, but only
a few with it stealthily located on the movement-side.
Few execute the whole package better than Moser, the
masters of distinctive and elegant understatement.

COMPLETE CALENDAR

Master Calendar by Jaeger-LeCoultre

A watch with a complete calendar displays the day,
date, month and phase of the moon. The complete
calendar does not have to be as mechanically complex
as a perpetual or annual calendar. It is characterized
by the comprehensiveness of its display, not by its
ability to handle the length of days in each month.
The Master Calendar is about as elegant an example
of a complete calendar as you will find. Add to that a
meteorite dial and you have yourself a beautiful
expression of both time and space.

DECLUTCHABLE ROTOR

RM 030 by Richard Mille

The enemy of accuracy is inconsistent power, and
there can be quite a considerable difference in
mainspring torque as it runs from full to empty. The
RM 030’s declutchable rotor is designed to keep the
power reserve within the sweet spot (around 80 percent
of wind) so that it avoids prolonged periods of exces-
sive or inadequate power. The rotor automatically dis-
engages with the movement when the reserve reaches
50 hours and then re-engages when it drops to 40
hours. You can check the status of the rotor via the
dial-side on/off indicator. ¨

The Wristwatch Handbook is available now at online retailers and fine bookstores everywhere.
For more information about the book, please visit www.thewristwatchhandbook.com.

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

CRomEpFleIxNityED

BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

A COMMITMENT TO UNRIVALED The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon is
available in a limited edition of 100 pieces.
PRECISION AND ELEGANT

DESIGN DEFINES THE

GLASHÜTTE-BASED

WATCHMAKER.

Unlike its haute horlogerie
counterparts in Switzerland,
A. Lange & Söhne is head-
quartered in the village of
Glashütte, the heart of Germany’s
watchmaking region. Location, however,
is by no means the only thing that sets
the firm apart. Renowned for its technically
and aesthetically superb wristwatches,
Lange, as it’s known among collectors,
is a highly regarded manufacture, capable of
producing world-class timepieces from A to Z.

TRIPLE THREAT

The watchmaker pulled out all the stops this year
with the introduction of the Datograph Perpetual
Tourbillon, a wristwatch equipped with three highly
coveted complications: column-wheel chronograph,
perpetual calendar and tourbillon. In addition to telling
the time, it has a tachymeter scale, day/night indicator,
moon phase display and a power reserve.

The column-wheel chronograph, or Datograph, in the
Lange lexicon, features a precise jumping minute counter
and a flyback function, which allows wearers to measure
the duration of consecutive events. The perpetual calendar
mechanism promises the timepiece will accurately tick off
days, months and, critically, leap years until 2100. Mean-
while, the tourbillon is designed to have an accurate rate
during the watch’s entire 50-hour power reserve.

Despite its complexity, the movement’s 729 individual
parts are arranged elegantly within the watch’s 41mm
platinum case.

18

Left: Presented in a 39.9mm platinum case, the
Richard Lange Jumping Seconds is available in a
limited edition of 100 pieces.

Above: The newest addition to the Saxonia family,
the Saxonia Moon Phase, comes in a 40mm case.

Right: The Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen,
presented in a limited edition of 200 pieces, is
housed in a 41mm platinum case.

JUMP AROUND OVER THE MOON

The Richard Lange Jumping Seconds is the To appreciate the degree to which Lange’s timepieces excel at precision, con-
latest addition to A. Lange & Söhne’s popular sider the watchmaker’s new Saxonia Moon Phase and Grand Lange 1 Moon
series paying tribute to the brand’s legendary Phase Lumen models. Once properly set — and if run continuously — each
observation watches. Along with an über-precise moon phase would only need to be corrected by one day every 122.6 years.
movement, the dial’s design is marked by
outstanding legibility. In the Saxonia Moon Phase, the watchmaker’s signature outsize date —
in a gold-framed double aperture at 12 o’clock — is balanced by a moon
The model’s jumping seconds mechanism, phase display in a subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock.
which the firm began incorporating into its
timepieces as early as 1867, pushes the large Meanwhile, the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen features a dial
seconds hand around the dial in full-second made of blackened silver whose most prominent element is a large moon
increments, unlike most others, which tick for- phase display. The tinted sapphire glass that surrounds it features a
ward several times a second. To achieve this feat special coating that blocks most of the visible light, but allows UV rays to
of micro-engineering, Lange uses a one-second pass through, thereby charging the luminous pigments on the outsize date
constant force escapement to ensure the ultimate below, which gives it a lovely glow-in-the-dark quality.
in exactitude.
All four of these pieces embody A. Lange & Söhne’s Germanic design
ethos: minimal, refined and simply exquisite. ¨

19

ARNOLD & SON

CRisHinAg tLo LthEe NGE

BY JASON HEATON The world’s thinnest skeleton tourbillon watch,
the UTTE Skeleton has twin barrels that store
ARNOLD & SON CARRIES 90 hours of reserve power.

FORWARD ITS NAMESAKE’S

LEGACY OF INNOVATION

WITH FOUR NEW TIMEPIECES.

W atchmaking is all about over-
coming challenges. Some of
these are of a practical nature,
such as the effect of gravity
on a watch’s accuracy. Others are more
aesthetic, like pushing the boundaries
of dimensions and materials. The UTTE
Skeleton succeeds in both areas.

UTTE, an acronym for Ultra-Thin
Tourbillon Escapement, encapsulates much
of what’s special about this watch. The tourbil-
lon was invented in the late 1700s to average out
the effects of gravity on a watch movement by
slowly rotating the entire escapement. They were
originally developed for pocket watches, which sat
vertically in a man’s waistcoat pocket, but watchmakers
continue to incorporate them into wristwatches as an
example of their prowess, as well as for the mechanism’s
mesmerizing beauty.

MAXIMIZED MINIMALISM

Creating a tourbillon is difficult enough; to put one in an
ultra-thin, skeletonized watch increases that challenge by
orders of magnitude. A tourbillon requires the addition of sev-
eral complex components and its cage must be sturdy enough
to support the additional torque of the rotating “whirlwind.”
This is at direct odds with the making of a skeleton watch,
whose main aim is the removal of material to expose as much
of the movement as possible. But Arnold & Son not only built a
skeletonized tourbillon watch, it created the thinnest of its
kind. The movement is only 3.3mm thick and once it’s in the
case, the finished watch is a mere 8.34mm in height.

Technical accomplishments aside, the UTTE Skeleton is a
beautiful watch to behold. Its 42mm rose gold case is well pro-
portioned and provides a handsome showcase for aesthetics
inspired by the marine chronometers built by the company’s
namesake founder in the late 18th century.

20

ARTFUL INNOVATION

That same nautical heritage is also found in the
Eight Day Royal Navy, which places legibility at
the fore with its broad hands and oversized
seconds counter. A power reserve dial promi-
nently displays the mainspring’s prodigious
eight-day autonomy, allowing the wearer to
maintain a sufficient level of power to
optimize chronometric precision.

The Nebula represents an-
other example of Arnold & Son’s
open-working expertise. Instead
of removing material from an
existing movement, which is
how many skeletons are creat-
ed, the Nebula was designed
from the beginning to be a
skeleton. This intent is
apparent in its harmo-
nized design, which
uses the movement
bridges themselves
as dial elements to
conjure an appealing
symmetry.

One more chal-
lenge accepted and
overcome by Arnold &
Son’s watchmakers is the
design of an accurate moon
phase display. The results are
found in the HM Double
Hemisphere Perpetual Moon,
which has a lacquered blue
dial that shows the phase of the
Moon, in great detail, as it is seen
in both the Northern and Southern
Hemispheres. This function will
remain accurate for 122 years,
at which time the single push of
a button will reset it for another
122 years.

An ultra-thin skeleton tourbillon,
an eight-day power reserve, and a highly accurate
moon phase may seem like the pinnacle of achieve-
ment, but for Arnold & Son, rising to new challenges is
business as usual. ¨

From top:
The Eight-Day Royal Navy brings to mind the marine chronometers of old.

The Nebula’s movement bridges form part of the openworked dial to create a
symmetric design.

The HM Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon’s signature function will stay accurate
for 122 years.

21

AUDEMARS PIGUET

The visually striking Royal Oak
Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph is
all about showing off the lightweight,
high-tech movement inside.

22

Endless INSPIR ATIONBYSTEPHEN PULVIRENT

AUDEMARS PIGUET COMBINES INNOVATION WITH A HEALTHY RESPECT

FOR TRADITION TO MAKE THE CLASSIC WATCHES OF TOMORROW.

T ucked away in the Swiss hamlet of Le Brassus sits Audemars The chronograph mechanism is fully integrated into the rest
Piguet, which has been making mechanical watches in the of the 338-part movement, keeping the watch relatively slim for
very same workshops since 1875. While the brand was its level of complexity at 16.6mm. Both a column wheel and a
best known in the early 20th century for superlative special shock-proofing system ensure the most precise measure-
perpetual calendars and chiming watches, it was the brash ments are possible.
Royal Oak that propelled the brand into the public
consciousness when it was first shown in 1972. Finishing across the watch is outstanding,
Designed by Gerald Genta, the watch’s octagonal from the contrasting polished and brushed sur-
bezel, steel construction, and integrated geo-
metric bracelet looked like nothing seen before, faces of the case down to the hand beveling and
while under the hood was a traditional ultra- fine graining found on the tiniest movement
thin automatic movement. This duality components. If it weren’t for the somewhat
of iconoclastic design and respectful outrageous architecture of the movement,
classicism has come to define Audemars you’d be forgiven for mistaking it for be-
Piguet for more than four decades. ing from a simpler, less industrial time.

Almost nowhere is that strangely BOLD CONCEPT
harmonious contrast more apparent
than in the Royal Oak Offshore It’s almost unbelievable that
Tourbillon Chronograph. The robust Audemars Piguet’s first Concept
44mm case is made entirely of plati-
num, giving it an unexpected heft, series watch was released in
and the contrasting black ceramic 2002, nearly 15 years ago.
bezel and crown make the rich blue The angular case structure,
dial look even more vibrant. Further- mechanically focused dials,
ing the effect is the dark blue rubber and envelope-pushing com-
strap, which not only adds a little plications have become a
subtle color, but also makes the watch
easy to wear. There aren’t that many hallmark of the brand while
hand-wound platinum tourbillon chrono- also continuing to feel fresh and
graphs that can say the same.
innovative with each new model.
Important sections of the in-house This year’s Royal Oak Concept
movement (caliber 2933) are exposed Tourbillon Chronograph retains
through three large cut-outs in the dial. On the mode-switching mechanism first
the left is the one-minute tourbillon, and on introduced in the original, as well as the
the right are the twin power barrels, which dial-side tourbillon, but adds a chrono-
allow for a nearly 10-day power reserve by graph that uses an unconventional linear
operating in parallel. All three are suspended by minutes counter on the right side.
aluminum bridges (another way to cut down on Strictly speaking, there is no dial on this
weight) that have been anodized black to match watch at all — the movement mainplate itself
the watch’s bezel. From first glance, there’s no acts as the dial and the indicators are printed
question you’ve got something serious on your wrist. right onto the components themselves. The
brown inner bezel and indications, paired
with the hand-stitched brown alligator strap,
soften the overall look, adding a bit of Old-World
character to the otherwise hyper-modern design.

The latest iteration of a modern icon, the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon Chronograph has brown accents to soften the watch’s bold geometry.

23

AUDEMARS PIGUET

SERIOUS BEAUTY

Too often watchmakers assume that women don’t care about
what’s going on inside their watch and that they don’t demand
the same level of design and finishing as male customers. In
today’s market, neither is true, and Audemars Piguet’s time-
pieces for women show the same attention to detail and
thoughtful spirit found in the men’s pieces.

The 37mm Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph models use
the same case shape and structure as the larger men’s models,
but in a size that fits much better on women’s wrists (espec-
ially with the rubber strap options). The case is also less than
12mm thick, which is achievable because of the fully integrated
chronograph movement inside, which uses a column wheel
mechanism like all of Audemars Piguet’s chronographs. The
tapisserie pattern on the dial — a hallmark of the Royal Oak —
has been scaled especially for this watch and is called the “lady
tapisserie.” The octagonal bezel also retains the eight iconic
screws, but between them are set 32 brilliant-cut diamonds
that total more than one carat.

Above & left: The ladies Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph is much
more than a 37mm version of the men’s watch, with the propor-
tions and design reconsidered for a woman’s wrist.

While the chronograph might be the most practical com-
plication out there, sometimes something a little simpler is in
order. The 37mm Royal Oak Selfwinding is about as pure and
practical as a Royal Oak can get. The silver-toned dial is ex-
tremely legible with rose gold markers and hands, and the
three-hand configuration is complemented by a subtle date
window. The rose gold bezel is accented with stainless steel
screws, carrying the two-tone look through to the smallest
details. The geometry of the bracelet is exactly the same as on
the larger models and the combination of larger stainless steel
links and smaller rose gold links works wonderfully. The bev-
eled edges, brushed surfaces and polished interior angles on
the bracelet alone are worth marveling at. Sure, the reduced
size is meant for ladies, but it has a bit of vintage-inspired
charm on a man’s wrist as well.

24

The Royal Oak can go even smaller though. At Left:
33mm, the Royal Oak Quartz is the most petite The Royal Oak Self-
member of the family, but with all the design codes winding is the most
that make the watch so instantly recognizable. It’s basic member of the
no easy feat to make watches from 33mm up to family and a few
46mm in the same family and ensure that the entire modern updates give
range feels cohesive, but Audemars Piguet does it the 1970s classic a
with aplomb. The stainless steel model’s deep black contemporary feel.
dial, with a matching date window, gives the watch
a sportier feel, while the all rose gold model has a 25
tonal brown dial that seems to change color at every
angle. Both are exercises in harmony, letting the dis-
tinctive shape of the Royal Oak stand on its own
with the materials playing a supporting part.

While designing something new is hard, start-
ing with an icon and trying to improve it is even
harder. Audemars Piguet has somehow managed to
take the basic form of the
Royal Oak and turn the
classic into countless vari-
ations that simultaneously
stand on their own and fit
seamlessly into the his-
tory of the 1972 classic.
This year’s variations
don’t disappoint and
the opportunities
for the future are
still endless. ¨

Right:
With the same instantly
recognizable design and
built-to-last construction, the
Royal Oak Quartz, shown here
in rose gold and stainless steel,
is a true Royal Oak through
and through.

CARTIER

Production of the Rotonde de Cartier
Astromystérieux is limited to 100 pieces.

26

Flight of
IMAGINATION

BY SCOTT HICKEY

EVERYONE LOVES A GOOD MYSTERY,
AND THIS YEAR CARTIER HAS
CRAFTED ONE FOR THE AGES.

For more than a century, the leg- CLANDESTINE COMPLICATION
endary maison has fascinated
the public with an irresistible Instead of a floating tourbillon or hands, the
spell that combines the power Astromystérieux’s entire movement (9462
of machines and magic. The tradition MC) appears to be suspended inside a halo
began in 1912 with the first mys-
tery clock, an ingenious inven- of Roman numerals. What’s visible — the
tion in which the hands ap- escapement, balance wheel, gear train
peared to float as they orbited and barrel — completes a full rota-
a clear dial. tion every hour and serves as the
watch’s minute hand. What you
In recent years, can’t see are the four sapphire
Cartier revisited the crystal discs stacked on top of
idea of the mystery one another in the center and the
clock to develop a new additional gearing that surrounds
generation of mystery them. This complex system is
watches, including the Myste- responsible for a number of vital
rious Hour and Mysterious tasks, everything from rotating the
Double Flying Tourbillon, the lat- movement and turning the hour
ter being Geneva Seal certified. hand, to setting the time and winding
Impressive as they are, the Manu- the mainspring.
facture Cartier in La Chaux-de-Fonds Without a doubt, the revolutionary
has outdone itself with the Rotonde
de Cartier Astromystérieux. The design behind the Astromystérieux rep-
design artfully blends elements from resents a remarkable technical achieve-
the modern Mysterious collection and ment. And in most any other watch, it likely
the Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon to would be the main attraction. But here,
conjure an original design that most Cartier uses the engineering as a means to
certainly exceeds what Louis Cartier and make a bold artistic statement, one whose pur-
clockmaker Maurice Couët dreamt was pos- pose is to make you forget about the mechanical
sible when they collaborated on the original minutia and instead lose yourself in the mystery.
mystery clock. Presented in a 43.5mm palladium case, the
Astromystérieux is part of a numbered series
limited to just 100 pieces.

The entire movement appears suspended in mid-air as
it rotates inside the Rotonde de Cartier Astromystérieux.

27

CARTIER

Limited to 67 pieces, the rose gold Crash Skeleton The 41mm palladium Clé de Cartier Skeleton
is a modern interpretation of a Cartier classic. is a gorgeous mix of angles and curves.

DOING MORE WITH LESS movement, which is made exclusively by Cartier. To honor the
year of the Crash’s birth, production of this version is limited
Even as the number of skeletonized movements grows, Cartier to 67 pieces.
finds ways to rise above the crowd with timeless aesthetics
and the exquisite finishing used to decorate its sculptural Inspiration for the Clé Skeleton, however, comes from a
movements. This year, the maison introduced two timepieces design introduced just last year. Named after the French
that epitomize its tireless dedication to horological artistry. word for “key,” the Clé recalls traditional key-wound clocks
with details like the clicking sound that’s made when the
The first is rooted in one of Cartier’s most daring de- sapphire-set crown is turned.
signs, the Crash, which originated in 1967. In its modern in-
carnation, the Crash Skeleton is larger than the original, The juxtaposition of the case’s flowing lines against the
heightening the visual impact of the asymmetrical case and angles of the Roman numerals is outstanding, but so is the
movement, a shape that articulates the notion of perfection watch’s technical pedigree, which includes Cartier’s first
through imperfection. automatic-winding skeleton movement. The major challenge
for watchmakers was to minimize the winding rotor on the
Carved from the movement bridges, Cartier’s signature back so that it wouldn’t detract from the airy design, but still
Roman numerals are bent, but still beautiful thanks to details power the mainspring efficiently. The result is a success on
like beveled edges and a satin finish that contrasts with the both counts.
polished case.The clear exhibition back shows off the unusual
arrangement of the gearing that makes up the hand-wound

28

GRACE UNDER PRESSURE But the brand didn’t stop there. It equipped the watch with
its own automatic movement, the 1904-PSMC, a caliber that
Dive watches — like those who use them — are a special breed. takes its name from the year Louis Cartier created the first
Unlike most timepieces, all dive watches must include certain men’s wristwatch for his friend, the pilot Alberto Santos-Du-
features and meet specific performance standards designed to mont. The movement’s svelte profile allowed the Calibre de
protect the diver. Cartier Diver to become the world’s thinnest dive watch, with a
case that is just 11mm thick.
Cartier approached the creation of the Calibre de Cartier
Diver with a determination to not only make something that This year, Cartier updated the Calibre de Cartier Diver by
was authentic, but to do so while maintaining the brand’s introducing blue to the collection.The striking azure-colored dial
signature look and feel. When the first wave of Cartier divers — complete with the brand’s characteristic Roman numerals —
arrived two years ago, it was clear the maison was ready to matches the ceramic bezel. Like the original Calibre de Cartier
jump headfirst into the category. From a technical standpoint, Diver, three versions of the 42mm case are available: stainless
the Calibre de Cartier stands on solid ground, checking all the steel, rose gold or a combination of both. The watch comes on a
requisite boxes for its ISO 6425 certification: water resistance blue-rubber strap that is offered exclusively in North America.
to 300 meters, unidirectional bezel, luminous display and
screw-down crown to name a few.

The matching bezel and dial underscore the Calibre de Cartier Diver’s aquatic purpose. The 42mm case
meets the stringent requirements for dive watch certification, including water resistance to 300 meters.

29

CARTIER

HIGH-FLYING STYLE

The Drive de Cartier collection was one of the most
talked about introductions for men this year, earning
raves for its refined yet sporty style.

That appealing aesthetic begins with a new case
shape that’s similar to a cushion, but with a more
streamlined silhouette. Despite its 40mm diam-
eter, the case wears like that of a smaller
watch and rests easy on the wrist thanks in
part to its trim (11.25mm) profile and con-
toured lugs. Beneath the shaped crystal,
the dial’s elegant proportions and bal-
anced arrangement echo the outline
of the case while articulating the
cohesive vision behind the design.

The pinnacle of the collec-
tion, at least in terms of compli-
cation, has to be the Drive de
Cartier Flying Tourbillon. The
movement at the heart of the
watch is Cartier’s tried-and-true
9452 MC, an in-house caliber
that epitomizes the incredible
strides the brand has made
since it introduced the Fine
Watchmaking collection in 2008.
Since then, the Cartier Manufac-
ture has introduced nearly 50
in-house movements, a remarkable
achievement by any measure.

The purpose of the tourbillon is to
average gravity’s detrimental effect on
timekeeping by rotating the balance and
escapement inside a cage. The design fea-
tured in the Drive de Cartier, however, goes
one step further. Unlike most, this is a flying
tourbillon, a variation that has no bridge
across the top of the rotating cage. The arrange-
ment provides a clear view of the C-shaped tour-
billon cage, which doubles as a small seconds hand
as it rotates once per minute.

The tourbillon’s beauty is matched by the
multi-level dial, which combines an openworked layer
of Roman numerals on top of a white guilloché base, a
hallmark of Cartier’s Fine Watchmaking collection.
The rose-gold case — with its polished bezel and satin-
finished sides — adds an elegant touch.

A 40mm rose gold case houses the in-house movement that powers the Drive de Cartier Flying Tourbillon.

30

These gray-dial Drive de Cartier models feature Roman The Drive de Cartier Second Time Zone’s titular
numerals that match the stainless steel or rose gold case. complication uses a 12-hour retrograde hand
Cartier also offers this model with a silvered flinqué dial.
paired with a day/night indicator.

WHAT DRIVES YOU? unconventional approach to the second time zone compli-
cation. Instead of a GMT hand, a window display or a sep-
In addition to the tourbillon model, there are six other mem- arate dial, the Drive de Cartier Second Time Zone indi-
bers of the Drive de Cartier family. The first version — cates the time in a different zone using a 12-hour retrograde
offered in stainless steel or rose gold — indicates the time hand in tandem with a day/night indicator.
and date, and features a small seconds at the bottom of the
silvered flinqué dial. Two additional models provide a nice This model retains the date function, but here it’s
visual twist by pairing a gray dial with numerals that transformed from a small window at three o’clock into a
match the case metal. large date display at the top. All of this functionality is
powered by Cartier’s self-winding 1904-FUMC movement —
All four Drive de Cartier models are equipped with the FU for fuseau, or time zone in French. It’s all tucked neatly
1904-PS MC, the maison’s in-house automatic movement. If into a 40mm case that’s offered in either rose gold or
you’re curious about the PS included in the movement’s stainless steel.
designation, it refers to the petite (small) seconds function.

The two remaining pieces in the collection take an

31

CARTIER

CURIOUS CATS across the dial. More than a charming visual spectacle, the
length of the bird’s flight indicates how much power remains
This year, Cartier put an unprecedented focus on bringing stored in the hand-wound movement, which is made in-house
together the two specialties that represent the brand’s twin pil- by Cartier.
lars: fine watchmaking and high-jewelry design. The results of
this audacious collaboration are absolutely breathtaking. Another exceptional creation born from this collaboration
is the Panthère Mystérieuse, a watch that combines two of
Among the highlights are two superlative timepieces for the maison’s historic traditions — the mystery clock and the
women. First is the Panthers and Hummingbird, which deftly panther motif.
combines jewelry craftsmanship with imaginative watchmaking.
Here, the mechanical slight of hand used to tell the time is
The 42.75mm white-gold case, set with 314 diamonds, surrounded by a panther sculpted from white gold and decorat-
forms a circular frame around a golden hummingbird perched ed lavishly with white diamonds, black lacquer and emeralds. A
atop one of Cartier’s signature panthers, which itself is com- sight to behold, the watch is an absolute showstopper thanks to
prised of 270 diamonds, a pear-shaped emerald eye and black the three-dimensional panther that rises up from the dial as it
lacquer spots. Pushing the diamond-set crown sets the scene in peers intently at the hands orbiting untethered around the dial.
motion, which begins with a panther cub jumping out from
behind its mother to chase the bird that takes flight in an arc

When the Panthers and Hummingbird crown is pushed, A diamond-studded panther curls
a panther cub emerges to chase the hummingbird, around the dial of this 40mm white gold
which doubles as a power reserve indicator.
Panthère Mystérieuse.

32

The new Hypnose collection includes rose and white gold models with diamond-set bezels.
Cartier also produces a full-pavé version that’s available on a diamond-set bracelet.

INFINITE STYLE oval section at the center decorated with a sunray finish.
The Hypnose’s rose or white gold case comes in two sizes:
Cartier’s ability to conjure instantly recognizable shaped watch
cases is rooted firmly in its experience as a jeweler, where mas- small (30 x 26.2mm) and medium (37.8 x 33.3mm). Cartier also
tering the relationship between shape, proportion and volume makes a special full-pavé model that comes on a diamond-set
is paramount. For more than a century, Cartier has put its in- bracelet and incorporates a black lacquer ring into the case. All
delible stamp on watch history with iconic cases like the Tank, of the watches in the Hypnose collection are powered by quartz
Crash and Ballon Bleu. movements, which allows Cartier to streamline the design by
moving the crown from the side to the caseback.
Earlier this year, the maison unveiled a new contender for
that legendary list — the Hypnose. The case certainly lives up The range of watches that Cartier introduced this year is
to its name with a mesmerizing arrangement of graduating ovals extraordinary, from true haute horlogerie pieces like the Astro-
that get smaller as they move toward the center of the dial. The mystérieux and Panthères et Colibri, to must-have designs for
case, which is available in rose or white gold, consists of two men and women like the Drive de Cartier and Hypnose. What’s
diamond-set rings, one nested inside the other. They surround doubly impressive is how effortless Cartier makes all of it look. ¨
the silvered flinqué dial, which includes Roman numerals and an

33

CLERC

Discovering ATqRuEatAicSURE

BY JAMES LAMDIN

CLERC WATCHES ARE STEEPED
IN FAMILY TRADITION, BUT NOT
ANCHORED TO CONVENTION.

T hese days, it seems like every brand worth its
salt (water) is offering a dive watch. Even
so, none are anything like Clerc.
To say that the Geneva-based
company manufactures tool watches is only
partly correct. The association is certainly a
positive one, and brands that focus exclusively
on creating no-frills tools solely designed for
technical applications are generally lauded
for their quality precision instruments. And
yet, Clerc rises above the fray with purpose-
built wrist machines for real-life adventurers.
But to its credit, the brand shuns traditional
design to create watches that are truly unlike
anything else.

It can freely be said that Clerc walks its
own path. And without fail, that path leads
straight to water.

ON THE EDGE

For divers, nothing is more important than knowing
their limits. Depth, temperature, visibility and navigation
are all of paramount importance, not to mention time. For the
modern diver, an array of digital dive computers are available
to take the guesswork out of monitoring dive time, but as any
seasoned diver will tell you, a mechanical backup is more than
just a nostalgic trinket.

Using centrally fixed hands for the chronograph improves underwater
legibility in the Hydroscaph Central Chronograph Small Second. The
watch’s 43.8mm case, available in stainless steel or ADLC-coated steel,
is water resistant to 500 meters.

34

Clerc knows this lesson well as demonstrated by the
Hydroscaph Central Chronograph Small Second, a watch
for those who demand a serious mechanical tool for a
serious sport.

Unlike most diver’s chronographs, however, it features a
central chronograph function, in which the sweeping seconds is
moved to a smaller, subsidiary register. The two chronograph
hands in the center count seconds and totalize the minutes up to
a full hour. In short, Clerc makes the diver’s chronograph much
easier to read and use underwater in real-life applications.

Fortunately, all of this functionality doesn’t come at the
expense of great design. The watch comes in an array of hand-
some colors and casing materials, including steel with a blue
dial or black ADLC with a matching black dial, perfect for un-
leashing your inner SEAL!

Both feature Clerc’s signature case design, which is both
futuristic and technical while avoiding anything superfluous.
Chronograph operation is managed from beautifully sculpted
hinged pushers on the right side of the case while a distinctive
locking mechanism at 10 o’clock rotates the bezel.

Above: The Hydroscaph H1 Chronometer Carbon Edition’s carbon
fiber bezel reduces weight and increases style.

Left: The Hydroscaph H1 Vancouver Bay Edition celebrates Clerc’s
partnership with Sub Aviator Systems.

COMFORT AND STYLE

Clerc’s commitment to cutting-edge technology has led it to
embrace carbon fiber in a special version of its time-only diver,
the Hydroscaph H1 Chronometer Carbon Edition. The use of
this ultra-light material, in tandem with scratch-resistant
DLC-coated steel and blue accents, forms a dashing alliance
that is irresistibly handsome.

For the watch enthusiast who has everything, you’d do well
to consider the Hydroscaph H1 Vancouver Bay Edition. The
particular color combination celebrates Clerc’s partnership
with Sub Aviator Systems. Manufacturers of some of the most
technologically advanced private submersibles in the world,
Sub Aviator Systems products are as cutting edge as Clerc’s,
and the partnership is all about pushing towards a future in
which mankind can explore deeper and longer, enjoying all that
the oceans have to offer. ¨

35

GIRARD-PERREGAUX

MPOrecTiOsioRnS
BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

FOR ITS 225TH ANNIVERSARY, GIRARD-PERREGAUX

CREATES TIMEPIECES THAT HONOR ITS TECHNICAL

ACHIEVEMENTS AND SOPHISTICATED STYLE.

T he most rarefied realm of the luxury watchmaking Enviable precision, however, is far from the only quality to
universe is home to a mere handful of firms. recommend the timepiece. The 46mm case is another. It’s made
Girard-Perregaux is squarely among them. Founded from a titanium and carbon-composite material that’s both
in 1791 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, the strong and lightweight; in fact four times lighter than titanium,
watchmaker celebrates its 225th anniversary this year with a and eight times lighter than steel. It has a manual movement
slew of models that capitalize on its well-established expertise that displays the time and the six-day power reserve. Its
in precision timekeeping. strikingly avant-garde design is the perfect package for the
revolutionary mechanics contained within.
AVANT-GARDE HOROLOGY
Thinner than a human hair, the silicon buckled-blade ensures the
Exhibit A: Girard-Perregaux’s pioneering Constant Escapement energy transferred to the escapement remains constant.
L.M. timepiece, which provides a solution to a timekeeping
problem that bedevils most mechanical watches: the near-
mythical attainment of constant force. You see, traditional
escapements — the element of the movement most critical to a
watch’s functionality — tend to lose power when transferring
energy from the mainspring, or barrel, to the balance wheel,
which governs timekeeping. This happens when the spring un-
winds and gradually loses energy between windings, thereby
transferring less and less power to the balance wheel, and
wreaking havoc on the watch’s accuracy.

In 2008, Girard-Perregaux introduced a few prototypes
that aimed to address this problem. But it wasn’t until 2013
that the Constant Escapement made its official debut. The
result of a years-long research process to improve the science
of chronometry, the L.M. model now boasts an unprecedented
level of precision thanks to a brand new escapement design
featuring a 14-micron silicon buckled-blade (that’s six times
thinner than a human hair!) that accumulates energy before
releasing it in a single impulse. Regardless of the amount of
energy left in the spring, the watch keeps on ticking at a
constant rate.

36

The groundbreaking
Constant Escapement
L.M. is now available
in a case composed of
titanium and carbon
composite.

37

GIRARD-PERREGAUX

THE SPORTING LIFE

Girard-Perregaux’s Stradale Chronograph — part of its
new “Competizione” line of chronographs — takes inspira-
tion from the manufacture’s first sport chronographs,
which emerged in the 1960s. They included a three-counter
model, dubbed the “Ready-Go,” designed for rally drivers
and motorcyclists. In the 1990s, Girard-Perregaux chose to
honor these vintage models in a new chronograph collec-
tion paying homage to fast cars.

The Stradale borrows its aesthetic from these three
decades’ worth of chronographs, as well as the brand’s
iconic Club Italia model, a 1987 chronograph that’s con-
sidered something of a milestone piece because it was
unveiled at a precarious time for the Swiss watch industry,
when Japanese quartz technology was still dominant.

The Stradale’s combination of polished and satin finishing,
elongated lugs and vintage “mushroom-type” pushers lends
the model its retro good looks.

The Stradale Chronograph has a 42mm steel case that
features a sapphire crystal caseback to provide a glimpse
of its elegant automatic movement. The brand offers four
versions: a black dial on leather strap or steel bracelet, as
well as a silvered dial on strap or bracelet.

Above: This 42mm steel Stradale Chronograph comes on a
stainless steel bracelet and has a 46-hour power reserve.
Left: Another version of the Stradale Chronograph has a
silvered dial paired with a brown alligator strap.

38

CALENDAR YEAR

For fans of classic haute horlogerie rendered in simple, straight-
forward stainless steel, Girard-Perregaux recently unveiled the
1966 Full Calendar, the latest iteration of its signature 1966 model.
The watch harks back to the manufacture’s 1960s heyday, when it
was one of a handful of firms to have an in-house research and devel-
opment department. The pièce de résistance of the 40mm timepiece is
its full calendar with date, day, month and moon-phase indications;
the complication’s usefulness is matched only by its elegance.

Powered by the GP03300 self-winding movement, the model is
a flawless example of refined Swiss finishing. Its mainplate and
bridges are drawn, beveled, circular-grained and decorated with
côtes de Genève as is the steel oscillating weight. For luxury watch
aficionados in search of a dress watch beloved by the cognoscenti,
the 1966 Full Calendar is a worthy investment.

Above: The Cat’s Eye Power Reserve features a diamond
bezel and comes on a rose gold and stainless steel bracelet.

Left: The clean and classic look of the 1966 Full Calendar is
available for the first time in a stainless steel case.

PURRFECTION

Despite Girard-Perregaux’s well-documented expertise in
creating technically advanced men’s watches, the company has
long nurtured its female collectors. In 2004, the manufacture
debuted the Cat’s Eye line, a collection of shapely ladies’
timepieces with a seductive oval silhouette.

Over the course of the next decade, the collection grew to
accommodate countless variations and complications, includ-
ing the well-received “Bi-retro” model, whose two retrograde
hands display the seconds and days of the week.

The newest version, the Cat’s Eye Power Reserve, comes on
a chic bi-color bracelet composed of rose gold and stainless steel
links. Its self-winding mechanical movement displays the time
and date, as well as the 46-hour power reserve. Available with or
without a diamond bezel, the distinctive oval case embodies the
genteel elegance for which Girard-Perregaux is famous. ¨

39

GIULIANO MAZZUOLI

Rock SOLID

GIULIANO MAZZUOLI CEMENTS HIS REPUTATION
FOR DARING DESIGN WITH HIS
LATEST CREATION.

BY JONATHAN BUES

A s a child growing up in Cen-
tral Italy, Giuliano Mazzuoli
was imbued with a love for
motorsport. He was enamored
with cars from a young age, which eventually
inspired him to race them. When, later in life,
Mazzuoli entered the design world, his point
of reference for industrial design was one firmly
entrenched in the world of everyday objects. For
him, this naturally meant objects from the
automotive world.

Although Giuliano Mazzuoli is not a watch-
maker per se, his penchant for horological design
has become more deeply refined over the years. He
has other successful projects such as fine-writing
instruments and stationery, but it’s his watches
that have landed Mazzuoli his greatest successes.

UNCONVENTIONAL INSPIRATION

Mazzuoli has been ahead of the curve time and again
in his willingness to embrace unusual materials for his
watch cases. He was among the first of the smaller inde-
pendent brands to make a carbon fiber watch. He has even
gone to Italy’s famed Carrara marble mines in pursuit of the
ultimate Italianate watchcase. And his penchant for finding
inspiration from everyday life took an unusual twist when he
stopped to observe some maintenance being done in his garden.

Mazzuoli immediately fell in love with the gray-green color
of freshly poured cement, and wanted to make a cement watch
that would keep this color without transitioning to a lighter gray.
The key to locking in this hue came from a complex brushing and
polishing process that is applied to each Italian-made Cemento
case. The straps likewise hail from the workshops of Italian
experts in the Tuscany region.

As with most of Mazzuoli’s watches, the Cemento is large
(45mm in diameter and 13.5mm in height) and features a Swiss-
made automatic movement with incabloc anti-shock system.

Special polishing allows the Cemento to retain the greenish-hue
of freshly poured cement.

40

IN GEAR

On the more complicated end of the spectrum is Mazzuoli’s Contagiri 8C Competizione
in all-black DLC. This timepiece’s central feature, which evokes a sports car’s rev counter,
is in fact a retrograde hour display that is set by a lever incorporated in the
caseband in conjunction with a rotating bezel. At the end of each twelve-hour
period, the central hand jumps from 12 to 1 in a manner recalling the steady
rise and rapid fall of a rev counter during acceleration and subsequent
gear changes.

One of the more fluid expressions of modern watch design in
the Mazzuoli line is the Trasmissione Meccanica Chronograph,
a timepiece whose case is designed after the stacked, swirling
gearing found in a car’s transmission.

The lug-less case design, which is typical in the Mazzuoli
range, incorporates an off-center winding and setting crown at the
2 o’clock position and chronograph pushers unusually placed on
the left-hand side of the case. Yet, as anyone who has actually
attempted to operate a chronograph while driving can attest, this
orientation has the advantage of ease of use for right-handers.

Whatever he is creating, Giuliano Mazzuoli brings a philosophy of
design to his projects that is uniquely his own. ¨

Above: The Contagiri 8C Competizione’s
distinctive retrograde hour is reminiscent
of a car’s RPM gauge.

Shown here in stainless steel and DLC-coated steel, the Trasmissione Meccanica
Chronograph’s distinctive gear-shaped case positions its chronograph pushers on
the left side of the case instead of the right.

41

GREUBEL FORSEY

ADVANTAGE

BY STEPHEN PULVIRENT

THE CHAMPIONS OF HAUTE HORLOGERIE SHOW OFF NEW
MECHANICAL MARVELS, PROVING CREATIVITY AND PASSION
ARE THE BEST PARTNERS.

T here are few watchmakers who have been able to establish themselves as the king of a
particular complication or category. That being said, few would argue that Greubel Forsey is
anything less than the modern master of the tourbillon, creating innovative new takes on
the centuries-old mechanism. But Greubel Forsey’s prowess doesn’t stop there. In addition
to the new mechanical experiments, there is a dedication to the most-demanding finishing tech-
niques to create timepieces like no others.

WINDOW TO THE SOUL

It would be hard to imagine a timepiece that exemplifies the trifecta of engineering, artistry and
imagination more than the new Double Tourbillon 30° Technique Sapphire. The Double Tour-
billon 30° was Greubel Forsey’s first creation, launched back in 2005, but with this update, it
looks like an entirely new timepiece altogether. The foundation is a newly developed case,
made entirely of sapphire. The material is used for the main body of the 49.95mm diameter
case, as well as the sculpted lugs, bezel and both the front and back crystals, which are
secured together with solid-gold screws. Even the fluted crown is sapphire.

Beyond being visually striking in its own right, the transparent case also gives you a
completely unobstructed view of the highly complex movement inside. The GF02s caliber
is made of 396 total components, 132 of which comprise the signature double tourbillon
30° mechanism itself. The two tourbillon cages are nested, with the flat outer cage rotat-
ing once every four minutes and the inner cage (set at the 30° angle) rotating once every
60 seconds. Even with all of this, the massive series of four barrels, positioned at 10:30,
provides 120 hours of power, counted out by the subtle indicator near 3 o’clock.

The real joy of the movement though is in the finishing found throughout the time-
piece. The movement’s blackened baseplate makes the other components shine bright-
ly, with the mirror-polished surfaces outlined by the hand-beveled edges. There’s no
true “dial” to speak of, with the engraved indicators integrated into the structure of
the movement itself. Only eight of these timepieces will be produced and it’s fair to
say that this is the Double Tourbillon 30° in its most extravagant form yet.

42

The Double Tourbillon
30° Technique Sapphire
shows off all its internal complexity
through the fully transparent sapphire case.

43

GREUBEL FORSEY

COHERENT COMPLEXITY

As if that isn’t enough to sustain ambitious collectors for the
year, Greubel Forsey also has the Quantième Perpétuel à
Équation, another extraordinary creation. The 25° tourbillon
— rotating once every 24 seconds — is just the beginning for
this timepiece. Opposite, near 4 o’clock, sits a trio of displays
for a straightforward perpetual calendar that includes the day,
date and month, plus a small leap-year dial off to the left. The
current day is spelled out like a person would actually read it,
so the wearer doesn’t have to decipher a strange set of nested
dials and hands.

Hidden on the back is a totally new equation of time indi-
cator that utilizes a transparent window to offer a glimpse of
the calendar mechanism itself. Finishing things off is a special
crown that, through the use of a button in the center, can adjust
all the functions of the timepiece, which eliminates the need for
clumsy extra pushers. This is a complex timepiece executed in
the simplest way possible.

Above: Packed into the Quantième Perpétuel à Équation is one
of the most thorough and thoughtful perpetual calendars
ever produced.
Left: A different take on the tourbillon, the Tourbillon 24 Secondes
Vision is both discreet and distinctive.

REFINED DESIGNS

Tackling a completely different sort of challenge, Greubel Forsey
created the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision, its slimmest time-
piece to date. In order to streamline things while retaining one
of its signature tourbillons, Greubel Forsey added a unique
sapphire bubble to the caseback, giving the mechanism the
necessary space, without making the overall case thicker. It’s
precisely placed to make it comfortable to wear, letting the
watchmakers pack in more mechanics in seemingly less space.
It’s a great example of simplicity being deceiving and it’s no
surprise that the white gold edition of this timepiece took the
grand prize, or Aiguille d’Or, at the 2015 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie
de Genève; otherwise known as the Oscars of watchmaking.
This new rose gold incarnation with a black dial was created to
celebrate the much-deserved award.

44

The tourbillon might be the company’s best-known signa-
ture, but not every Greubel Forsey actually includes a tourbillon.
The Signature 1 is a perfect example of a timepiece that carries
all the same DNA as the brand’s more complicated creations,
but with a more pared-down approach. Not only is it the most
accessible model in the collection, it’s also one of the easiest to
wear, with a rose gold case that is 41.4mm across and just
11.7mm thick. Created in collaboration with Didier Cretin, one
of Greubel Forsey’s top watchmakers, the Signature 1 shows off
the incredible hand-finishing techniques that go into every
Greubel Forsey timepiece, especially on the exposed bridges
and escapement, including an oversized (12.6mm) balance
wheel. This very well could be the most superlative three-hand
timepiece available today.

Above: The Signature 1 is the simplest timepiece Greubel Forsey DARING DUET
has ever produced, but it might just be the most stunning
three-hand timepiece available today. Giving the Signature 1 a run for its money though is the Double
Balancier à Différentiel Constant, another Greubel Forsey
Right: Two connected timekeeping systems make the Double without a tourbillon. Instead, there are two separate escape-
Balancier à Différentiel Constant at once extremely accurate and ments, each with a balance wheel set at a different 30° angle.
undeniably beautiful. The time displayed represents an average of what the two bal-
ances count after being calculated through the use of a differ-
ential gear system. This is an extremely complicated way to
create a more accurate timepiece, and one that required years
of research and development to do correctly. One tiny miscal-
culation could render the entire mechanism useless.

Beyond chronometry though, the Double Balancier system
is a beauty to behold, generously filling the dial cutout between
4 and 10 o’clock. A grained baseplate acts as a perfect ground-
ing for the mirror-polished and beveled bridges and gears, with
contrasting colors and blued steel accents. This is one you
could stare at endlessly.

In just 12 years, Greubel Forsey has become one of the
best-known watchmakers by creating true haute horlogerie. As
the brand grows and evolves, so too does the level of creativity
and ingenuity with which founders Robert Greubel and Stephen
Forsey dream up new creations. And if this year’s collection is
any indication, the two are just getting started. ¨

45

H. MOSER & CIE.

Subversively SUBTLE

H. MOSER & CIE. PUSHES THE BOUNDARIES OF TRADITIONAL
WATCHMAKING WITH THOROUGHLY MODERN TIMEPIECES.

BY STEPHEN PULVIRENT

T he world With a larger case and
of Swiss sportier dial, the Pioneer
watch- Perpetual Calendar is
making can an alternative to more
sometimes obsess a staid complications.
little too much over
the past at the expense protection. The
of the future. The same ardoise fumé dial
can’t be said of H. Moser, is bold and graphic,
which breaks the mold by with applied red gold
making watches that are markers, luminous dots
rooted in the fundamentals and hands, an easy-to-
of fine horology — which read power reserve indi-
have remained unchanged for cator and a date wheel
centuries — while also exploring (color-matched to the dial,
new territory in wrist-worn mech- of course).
anics. Moser makes serious watches The brand’s signature
that don’t take themselves too seri- perpetual calendar complica-
ously and feel very much of our cur- tion is deliberately restrained
rent era. The Pioneer Perpetual with a month indicator arrow at
Calendar exemplifies this approach. the center and a date wheel that
The red gold case is a robust 42.8mm changes instantaneously. As a result, it
and has black DLC-finished accents avoids a common design pitfall by not
around the lugs and on the crown screaming out: “Look at me, I’m wearing
to add some visual definition and a highly complicated machine on my
wrist.” The multi-part case is also
46 water-resistant to 120 meters, so you
never have to baby it or take if off at the
pool. When you’ve got a watch this cool,
leaving it behind is the last thing you
want to do.

For the traditionalist, the Venturer Big Date has a familiar dial Getting rid of everything unnecessary, including the dial signature,
layout, with all of Moser’s innovations underneath. the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept is a pure as it gets.

ICONOCLASSICS The Swiss Alp Watch pokes fun at a well-known smart watch, but
packs a serious mechanical movement inside.
On the more traditional side, Moser offers the Venturer Big
Date. Slightly smaller with a 41.5mm white gold case, its
white lacquered dial, Roman numerals and blued-steel
hands all take their cues from the classics. The instan-
taneous date remains, again with big numerals, and the
hand-wound movement packs a 10-day power reserve into a
slim, wearable package.

Moser’s Concept series is one of the most iconoclastic in
all of modern watchmaking. The signature fumé dials are
stripped of all markers and text — even the brand’s name — for
a clean-as-can-be look. It’s something no other brand amongst
the modern Pantheon has dared to do.The Endeavour Centre
Seconds Concept pairs a solid rose gold case and three simple
rose gold hands with the vivid “funky blue” fumé dial. Here
it’s allowed to shine in all its glory, without any distractions
on top. Lurking beneath the dial is a hand-wound movement
that includes an indicator for its seven-day power reserve.

In response to the folks making a much-talked-about
digital watch in Cupertino, California, Moser counter punch-
es with the Swiss Alp Watch. The curved rectangular case,
arched wire lugs, and curved crystal might feel familiar, but
the fumé dial and expertly finished mechanical movement
are nothing like what you’ll find in a so-called smart watch.
The Swiss Alp Watch is at once a tip of the hat, a wink of the
eye, and a confident assertion that fine watchmaking is here
to stay, circuit boards be damned.

As some brands race to please the mass market, it’s
refreshing when a watchmaker heads in its own direction.
H. Moser’s watches challenge preconceptions and teach
collectors along the way. ¨

47

HYT

The H2 Tradition is the first
HYT movement decorated
with guilloché. Only 50 pieces
will be made.

48

FBUackTUto RthEe
BY SCOTT HICKEY

AFTER CHALLENGING WATCHMAKING’S TRADITIONS
WITH ITS HYDRO-MECHANICAL TIMEPIECES,
HYT IS BACK TO EMBRACE THEM.

“W e have always said The most noticeable change,
that we would never however, was made to the balance
create a classic wheel, which was relocated from
piece. Having said
that, this is exactly what we’ve the top of the watch to the center
done!” says HYT co-founder to make room for the minute
Vincent Perriard. display. Unlike every other
An unconventional model in the H2 family, the
approach to horology Tradition doesn’t have a
has been the Swiss central minute hand,
brand’s calling card but instead uses a
since it launched in 2013. separate, off-center
But this year, HYT does subdial. To house this
something truly radical — beautiful mechanism,
by its own standards — as HYT crafted a 48.8mm
it integrates classic watch- case that features both
making codes into its futur- white gold and titanium.
istic design to create the The H2 Tradition
H2 Tradition. may project Old World
The white-lacquer dial, charm, but it never over-
blued hands and Roman num- shadows the brand’s cut-
erals are pure haute horlogerie, but ting-edge identity, one rooted
what really connects the design to in both science and imagina-
centuries of watchmaking history tion. It’s that dynamic push and
is the diamond-shaped pattern of
guilloché visible on the exposed sections pull between antiquity and
of the movement’s main plate — a first modernity that allows the look
for the brand. The ornamental engrav- and feel of the H2 Tradition to reso-
ing also required the brand to modify nate so deeply. To achieve that un-
its standard hand-wound movement, canny balance, HYT has taken the
which needed to be slightly thicker to best from both worlds to make some-
accommodate the decoration. thing entirely original.

Boasting an eight-day power reserve, the bridges on the H2 Tradition’s movement are polished and beveled by hand.

49

HYT

Above: The H2 Alinghi is paired LIGHT AND BRIGHT
with a handsome fabric strap and
features the team logo engraved at It’s only natural that HYT would have a strong connection to the world of yacht
the bottom of the dial. racing. Beyond the obvious liquid connection, both disciplines rely on precision
and performance for success, a combination that comes to the fore in the
H2 Alinghi, a limited edition (25 pieces) honoring the brand’s partner-
ship with the Alinghi racing team.
Much like the speedy craft that’s carried the Alinghi team to two
America’s Cup wins, HYT has trimmed unnecessary weight from the H2,
opting for an untreated titanium case — the brand’s first — along with
a skeletonized design. The balance bridge and other key components are
made in black to match the inky liquid that circles the dial to indicate
the hours. The chapter ring that marks the hours has a nice two-tone look
that alternates between matte and polish finishes to enhance legibility.
HYT’s quest for superior readability led to the creation of another in-
triguing model, the H4 Metropolis. In terms of design, the dial is similar to
the original H1, but with a hand-wound movement that’s been partially skele-
tonized. It’s the second crown — positioned near five o’clock — that offers the
first hint at the watch’s most distinctive feature: two LEDs that illuminate the
movement. Their strong, blue light makes it possible to see the minute hand in the

dark and seems to energize the liquid hour indicator, which radiates a bright
yellow-green glow.

The secret to the Metropolis’ power is a tiny mechanical generator integrated into
the movement. When the secondary crown is wound, it primes a dynamo that powers the
LEDs for up to five seconds when the crown is pushed, and about four times as long if
you hold the button down. What other watch makes telling time in the dark so much fun?

When HYT introduced the first generation of its blue-liquid indicators in 2014,
the H1 Iceberg was an instant favorite thanks to its bold mix of white rubber and
azure fluid. The company revisited the design this year for the H1 Iceberg2, a sequel
that further amplifies the watch’s crisp contrast.

In place of the original white dial, HYT has opted for a vibrant blue one. Its
eye-catching shade is actually grand feu enamel topped with a layer of sapphire crys-
tal, a combination that adds both richness and depth. Presented in a 48.8mm titanium
case, the H1 Iceberg2 will be produced in a limited run of 50 pieces.

Above & left: Limited to 100 pieces, the H4 Metropolis has a mechanical
generator built into the titanium and DLC-coated case that lights up the dial.

50