16 Status Magazine

MONOCHROME MONSTERS Above: The H1 Iceberg2’s dial includes
a gauge for the movement’s 65-hour
HYT dove head first into the memento mori artistic tradition last year with the power reserve.
debut of its first Skull watch. Beautifully macabre, the chilling design uses the
brand’s liquid indicator to outline a large skull at the center. The eye sockets
are filled with fluid and each accommodates a different indicator: small
seconds on the left and power reserve on the right. At the bottom, the
articulated bellows that control the liquid’s movement form the jaw to
complete the look.

Just this year, HYT added an even more sinister incarnation called
the Skull Bad Boy. The watch’s function remains unchanged, but the
form has taken a dramatic turn. Darkness dominates the design
throughout, from the DLC-coated titanium case and black-leather
strap, to the Gothic-style numerals and black-liquid indicator. The skull
itself projects a suitably seductive malevolence thanks to a coating that
evokes the mottled look of Damascus steel. According to the brand, the
process used to produce this composite material ensures that no two skulls
will ever look the same.

A more figurative expression of the monster motif emerges in the
H1 Ghost, a design that focuses on the interplay between light and shadow.
Most of the watch — including the tinted resin that covers the dial’s upper
half — provides a dark backdrop for white elements like the minute hand, small
seconds and power reserve indicator.

In addition to its distinctive monochrome aesthetic, the Ghost also pioneers a
technique destined to open up new design avenues for the brand. To make the
black liquid display readable in the dark, HYT added a layer of Super-LumiNova
beneath it. When the lights are off, the uncovered section glows, making it easy to
see the hour.

As HYT approaches its three-year anniversary, one of its greatest achievements
has been to use watchmaking as a means for its unfettered creative expression.
Unconventional. Whimsical. Dramatic. And this year you can add traditional to
that list. Whatever style it chooses, HYT always makes it its own. ¨

Black liquid indicates the hours in the Skull Bad The white coating beneath the black liquid hour
Boy, which is part of a 50-piece limited edition. indicator glows so the H1 Ghost can be read in the dark.

51

IWC

For the first time in its history, the Big
Pilot’s Watch Edition “Le Petit Prince” is
available as a regular production piece.

52

Light The Fires and

KICK THE TIRES

IWC BRINGS COLOR AND TRADITION BACK TO BY ADAM CRANIOTES
ITS ICONIC PILOT’S COLLECTION THIS YEAR.

F ew watches have so thoroughly defined a segment of the market like the IWC
Pilot’s collection. From the stalwart Mark series to the standard bearer Big
Pilot’s Watch, IWC has been synonymous with aviation-themed timepieces
since the late 1930s and hasn’t given up one inch since.
What exactly is a pilot’s watch? In IWC’s lexicon, a pilot’s watch is a supremely
legible, rugged watch that affords the wearer a near-instantaneous reading of the
time. This translates into large, high-contrast dials and robust movements encased
in soft iron to mitigate the effects of magnetism on timekeeping. This latter bit
was a real consideration in early cockpits, while today the main threats are from
things like speakers in laptops.
While you may never need to know exactly when to make a mid-air,
mission-critical navigational correction, for the Walter Mitty in all of us, it’s
comforting to know that you’ll be prepared, should you find yourself in a
WWII-era fighter over enemy territory.

WISH UPON A STAR

As with many manufactures, IWC has created a series of special models
over the years to commemorate specific events and individuals. One of the
most enduring, and indeed, anticipated of these is their “Le Petit Prince,”
which refers to the titular character from Antoine Saint-Exupery’s
beloved classic.

Typically, the “Le Petit Prince” is a limited edition, but this year IWC
broke with tradition. The company not only made it a production piece to be
sold alongside their staple Pilot’s watches, but also expanded the collection.
There are now four “Le Petit Prince” timepieces to choose from, with the Big
Pilot’s Watch version being the main event, so to speak.
To understand the Big Pilot, first you have to understand that it’s not called
a “Medium Pilot” for good reason. The case is a generous 46mm and the diamond-
shaped crown — were it an actual diamond — would make even the most demanding
bride-to-be proud. These design attributes aren’t meaningless filigree, mind you,
and have everything to do with the practical considerations of life in an unpressurized
cockpit, where a watch is worn over the sleeve of an insulated flight jacket and a pilot
must be able to manipulate the crown while wearing bulky gloves. It goes without
saying that the expansive dial makes reading the time at a glance a simple exercise of
momentarily flicking your eyes to the left.

A caseback engraving of BLUE IS THE NEW BLACK
the titular character tells
you that this is no ordinary In the case of the Big Pilot’s Watch Edition “Le Petit Prince,” it’s all there: the mas-
Big Pilot’s Watch. sive case, large crown, and the magnetically shielded movement. The dial remains as
legible as ever and for this version it’s rendered in a stunning sunburst blue, which
has become one of the hallmarks of the “Le Petit Prince” series. The caseback continues

53

IWC

the theme with an engraving of the little guy, but what lies beneath is pure, old school
IWC in the form of the vaunted 51111 automatic movement with its trademark
seven-day power reserve. The 50000-series movement was developed in-house by
master watchmaker and living legend, Kurt Klaus, and is almost as legendary as the
Big Pilot itself. As with all IWC Pilot’s watches, it’s protected by a soft-iron inner
case and the crystal is secured against sudden pressure drops. In short, it’s an
honest-to-God pilot’s watch that also happens to look absolutely stunning.

TIMING IS EVERYTHING

For those who absolutely positively have to have the blue dial from the
Big Pilot’s Watch Edition “Le Petit Prince,” but also absolutely positively
have to have a chronograph, IWC has them covered with the aptly named
Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Le Petit Prince.” As with the Big
Pilot version, this watch is also a production piece, and aside from the
trademark blue dial, it shares its case and movement with the standard
Pilot’s Watch Chronograph, which means that it’s a solid piece of kit,
replete with all the features that make an IWC Pilot’s watch a pilot’s
watch. At 43mm, however, it does wear a bit more comfortably on those
with smaller wrists.

Above: The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph
Edition “Le Petit Prince” sports the line’s
trademark blue dial.

The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN ACTION HERO
Miramar takes its design cues from classic
observer’s watches from the Forties. Another option for the timing obsessed
is the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP
GUN Miramar, which adopts a polished
ceramic case and observer-style dial.
The overall effect is at once vintage and
contemporary, but still 100% IWC. Under
the cowling lurks IWC’s in-house 89361
chronograph; a proper column-wheel
design, which comes with a vertical
clutch, 68-hour power reserve and a
flyback complication. Compared to last
year’s model, this one is streamlined
with a 44mm case (down 2mm), and
it does away with the fussy triple-date
aperture.

54

CLASSIC TO THE CORE

Okay, so let’s say that blue isn’t your color and you’re not aiming for
Top Gun status. What’s a collector to do? Not to worry, because IWC
hasn’t forgotten their bread and butter.Yes, they’ve improved the
basic recipe, but for the traditionalist, the new Big Pilot’s
Watch and Mark XVIII remain in the catalog as the purest
distillations of IWC’s time honored pilot’s formula.

These watches sport high-contrast black dials and
stainless steel cases, just as God, the RAF and IWC intended,
and they don’t give up a single ounce of functionality in
the name of fashion. And in a move that brings them
closer to their heritage, the number nine is back on the
dial and the orientation triangle has moved beneath
the minute track. These are small details to be sure,
but the effect is transformative, particularly in the
case of the Mark XVIII. Sized at a classic 40mm, it
signals a brilliant return to form for the stalwart
Mark series.

Right:
The Pilot’s
Watch Mark
XVIII is a brilliant
return to form
for the classic
Mark series.

Small details bring the Big Pilot’s Watch closer to its roots. CROWD PLEASER

It’s hard to be all things to all people, but IWC has come close
with their updated Pilot’s Collection. Regardless of whether
you spend your days strapped to an ejection seat in the cockpit
of a fighter jet, or behind a computer monitor in the accounting
department, there’s an IWC Pilot’s watch that will fit your
mood, wrist and budget. And given the real heritage backing
them up, you’ll never once have to explain your choice of a
timepiece to the flyboys at the Officer’s Club. ¨

55

CULINARY CAMEOS

Eat Your

VEGETABLESBYAMY COHEN

If you’re a carrot in New York today, chances are you’ve been roasted,
glazed, braised, en papillote, drizzled or otherwise constructed into
one of the hottest dishes in town. Vegetables have moved front and
center, and their newest incarnation challenges our belief of what
constitutes a meal. Chefs are getting in touch with their inner green-
market, and the results are revealing sexy new hidden depths of flavor.
It’s a delectable game-changer that will surprise, amaze and delight. It’s
not vegetarian, it’s vegetable-focused, and there is a difference. You’ll
never look at a beet the same way again!

Dovetail

Dirt Candy

Little Park The Little Beet Table Café Clover

56

AVANT GARDEN PHOTOGRAPHS: DAPHNE CHENG (FOOD), AVANT GARDEN (INTERIOR) AVANT GARDEN CAFÉ CLOVER
CAFE CLOVER PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF CAFE CLOVER
130 East 7th Street ◆ avantgardennyc.com 10 Downing Street ◆ cafeclovernyc.com

Chef Christina Verna enjoyed a starch diet as a kid, but After tasting the menu at Café Clover, it will surprise you
eventually realized she had to eat vegetables to survive. to hear that chef David Standridge was a picky eater. In
At this gem of a restaurant she wants guests to approach a rebellion against the overcooked food of his youth, he is
each dish with an extremely open mind, as it will be chal- creating dishes that are meditations on particular vegeta-
lenged. The ingredients in Beet Salad – beets, kumquats, bles. Sweet Potato Carpaccio, with tahini, pumpkin seeds,
horseradish, rose bud and sunflower seed – will invigorate and turmeric-lime citronette riffs on the traditional with
your palate, and the fabulous cremini mushroom or fennel great respect. Eating just one Socca Pizzette topped with
hummus toast will satiate. But save room for dessert. From ricotta, chanterelles and hazelnut will leave you longing for
jalapeño ice cream and corn cookies to whatever is the nightly more. Standridge knows his focus on making exceptional
special, you won’t want to miss it. dishes with produce from dedicated farmers is successful
when he likes each subsequent menu better than the last.

57

CULINARY CAMEOS

DIRT CANDY LITTLE PARK DIRT CANDY PHOTOGRAPHS: EVAN SUNG
LITTLE PARK PHOTOGRAPHS: NOAH FECKS (FOOD), LITTLE PARK (INTERIOR)
86 Allen Street ◆ dirtcandynyc.com Smyth Hotel, 85 West Broadway ◆ littlepark.com

Dirt Candy is the cathedral of vegetables, and chef Ideas at Little Park come from what’s seasonal, and how
Amanda Cohen its high priestess. Her ravenous and chef Min Kong imagines she would most enjoy eating
insatiable creative impulse extends equally to all vegetables, that ingredient. Her father was the cook growing up, and
and ideas come from everywhere. She describes her Porto- she always finished the vegetables on her plate first. In the
bello Mousse with sautéed Asian pears, cherries and truffle Fava Greens starter, strawberry, blue cheese and poppy
toast as “the creamiest little slab of mushroom you’re ever seed provide texture, character and flavor in an unexpected
going to eat.” The Brussels Sprout Tacos, served on a sizzling combination. Popular spinach, parsley and basil spaghetti
stone with lettuce wrappers and accompaniments, is so dec- tossed with walnut, fennel and ricotta is a lip-smacking
adent and engaging it’s hard to stop eating. At heart, Cohen original. Potatoes may win her over, but Kong’s favorite
just wants to play — every dinner should be a party, and a vegetable to cook with is garlic; don’t worry, she leaves it
fun ending to the day. out of dessert.

58

THE LITTLE BEET TABLE PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF THE LITTLE BEET TABLE THE LITTLE BEET TABLE DOVETAIL
DOVETAIL PHOTOGRAPHS: NATHAN RAWLINSON
333 Park Avenue South ◆ thelittlebeettable.com 103 West 77th Street ◆ dovetailnyc.com

Chef Adam Starowicz loves to eat peas, especially sugar W hen word got out about Meatless Mondays at Dovetail,
snaps, but he’d rather cook with cauliflower. A best- what started as an experiment became a natural pro-
seller, Cauliflower Hummus is his homage to the vegetable gression to expand to a vegetable-focused menu. Growing up
and is served with market popcorn, toasted seeds, red onion in California, chef John Fraser recalls fresh produce was
and grilled bread. Eating healthy but happily is important to always on the table. Today, his favorites change with the
Starowicz, who changed his cooking style after being diag- season. The first bite of Cured Carrots, white bean and coffee
nosed with diabetes at age 27. Roasted vegetables are high- walnuts will switch any mindset from healthy to rich and
lighted in all dishes, whether it’s the addictive charred broc- satisfying. Fraser is confident of providing an eye-opening
coli, or something as simple as a side of roasted radishes. He experience, and the burst of flavor in the Beet Sourdough
relentlessly checks cookbooks and Instagram for ideas, but Bread with cream cheese and fine herbs will prove that clever
says the best ones come to him by eating. can also be luscious. Eat your vegetables! ¨

59

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

Watching
HISTORY

Unfold

BY MICHAEL THOMPSON

GET READY TO FLIP FOR THE
REVERSO ONCE AGAIN AS
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
CELEBRATES 85 YEARS OF
ITS LEGENDARY CREATION.

T his year, Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates the 85th anni-
versary of the Reverso — the rectangular, dual-sided
collection identified most with this famed Le Sentier-
based watchmaker. One of the very few watch designs
worthy of the overused term “iconic,” the Reverso was the
result of a challenge polo players made to the brand’s distributor
in India. They wanted a timepiece that could withstand the rigors
of their favorite sport — which occasionally includes the whack
of a wooden mallet. Their pleas were answered in 1931 when
designer René-Alfred Chauvot and company chief Jacques-
David LeCoultre introduced a watch that allowed the wearer to
swivel the case so the solid caseback was on top and the watch’s
crystal was tucked safely underneath.

The Reverso Tribute Calendar’s main dial is home
to a triple calendar with a date subdial that shares
space with a gorgeous moon phase.

60

This dual-sided Art Deco design — whose name was
inspired by the Latin phrase meaning “I turn around” — did
more than simply protect the watch from shock. Soon, Reverso
owners began to personalize their timepiece’s caseback, utiliz-
ing the unadorned flipside as a palette for self-expression and
adornment. Over the years, Jaeger-LeCoultre has emblazoned
Reversos with everything from family crests and lacquered
paintings to gilded engravings.

FITTING TRIBUTE

For the anniversary, the brand revisits earlier styles with
the Reverso Tribute collection. While it doesn’t mirror every
characteristic of the original, it does fully embody its spirit by
holding dear the Reverso’s sleek Art Deco case, elongated
applied markers (no numerals) and dauphine hands. A clear
standout from the collection is the Reverso Tribute Calendar,
which is based on the brand’s “duo concept” — a single
manual-wind movement driving two independent dials and a
day/night indicator.

The Reverso Tribute Calendar adheres to this outline and
adds a richly decorated set of calendar functions. The grained
dial on the front includes a triple calendar with windows for
the day and month and a hand for the date, plus a moon phase
indicator. The back shows the time in a second time zone along
with a spectacular day-night indication topped with a tiny tri-
angle to enable easy reading. The anthracite-colored guilloché
dial is embellished with a “clous de Paris” hobnail finish.

The final touch here is a technical one that helps retain the
watch’s seamless Reverso case design. To adjust the watch’s
second time zone, Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed a wholly
new method that avoids placing a pusher or small indented
button onto the side of the case. Instead, flipping the case
reveals a discreet second time zone trigger that’s integrated
into the case at 6 o’clock, well out of sight until needed.

A hobnail pattern surrounds the second time zone
display and day-night indicator on the backside of
the Reverso Tribute Calendar.

61

JAEGER-LECOULTRE which comes in either rose gold or steel
and can be worn on either a strap or
TIMELESS STYLE bracelet. Interestingly, these offer a dia-
mond-set bezel on their secondary dial
The Reverso Classic — now available in for added flexibility as both a daytime
small, medium and large sizes — retains and evening watch.
the Art Deco demeanor and Golden Ratio
case dimensions of the traditional The second watch for women is the
Reverso, but introduces slightly thinner Reverso One Duetto Moon, a model with
lugs designed to hug the wrist more an elongated case that is the first Reverso
comfortably. What’s really exciting is ever to break the rule of the Golden Ratio.
what’s inside. Typically, the Reverso is On the front, it features a distinctively retro
powered by one of the maison’s stalwart silver-toned, sunburst guilloché dial with
hand-wound movements. Not so for the seemingly hand-written Arabic numerals
large-sized Reverso Classic (45.6 x and dauphine hands. Flipping to the sec-
27.4mm). It has a self-winding movement ond dial reveals a dreamy, blue paillonné
(Caliber 965), a feature that is parti- enamel dial composed of overlapping circles
cularly enticing for collectors who have and radiant beams. The star-spangled
been craving an automatically wound look includes a romantic moon phase
edition to this time-only line. with a mother-of-pearl lunar disc.

Watches sized for feminine wrists Left: The large Reverso Classic offers the first
were among the very first wave of Reversos automatic movement for this collection.
in 1931. With this in mind, Jaeger-LeCoultre
offers two marvelous creations destined
to beguile modern women. First is the
small-sized Reverso Classic Duetto,

The new Reverso Classic Duetto The Reverso One Duetto Moon features
models, available in two sizes, a silver-toned, sunburst guilloché dial on
feature automatic movements. the front and a stunning moon phase
display on the back.
62

MAKING THE ROUNDS

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s recent debuts, however, were not all
Reversos. One that garnered a great deal of attention is the
black-dialed version of the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual. Not
only is it the first steel version of this popular model available
through the brand’s authorized dealers, the watch also has an
interesting backstory.

Cellini President Leon Adams and Jaeger-LeCoultre U.S.
President Philippe Bonay collaborated on the design for a special
edition meant to celebrate Cellini’s 40th anniversary in 2017.
The creation was so good, however, that it became part of the
brand’s collection. “A number of us, Leon Adams and I in partic-
ular, were very fond of the original Master Perpetual Calendar
black dial from the late Nineties,” Bonay recalls. “It is a watch
that perfectly synthesized the blend of innovation, complica-
tion and value Jaeger-LeCoultre can offer. The idea to create
a contemporary version of this model came out of one of the
passionate discussions we often have.”

The Geophysic Universal Time combines The Master Ultra Thin Perpetual is now
the brand’s signature dead-beat seconds available with a steel case and black dial.
with a world time function.
The Geophysic Universal Time, which debuted to great
acclaim last year, is also a contemporary version of a classic
design.The watch is one of two new Geophysic models to feature
True Second, a sophisticated mechanism that releases the sec-
onds hand once per second, echoing the precision of historic
regulator clocks. As its name suggests, the Geophysic Universal
Time enables simultaneous reading of the time in all 24 major
time zones via a moving disc that displays all the corresponding
cities. A traveler needs only to adjust the local time by moving
the hour hand forward or backward, independently of the min-
utes and seconds.

The dial of this 41.6mm rose gold version depicts all of the
Earth’s continents with a sunburst finish. The seas are formed
by lacquered shades of blue. From the watch’s clear sapphire
caseback, the wearer sees that the movement’s solid gold oscil-
lating weight echoes the Jaeger-LeCoultre logo.

Both of these new round-cased models perfectly comple-
ment the Reverso’s flexible, rectangular profile. And in 2016,
this storied brand once again offers a range of new designs
other brands can only dream about. ¨

63

LAURENT FERRIER

NA AFoTrUceRofE

BY JONATHAN BUES

INSPIRED BY VINTAGE AUTOMOBILES AND THE RELENTLESS
POWER OF NATURE, LAURENT FERRIER WATCHES ARE
SOME OF GENEVA’S BEST DESIGNED, INSIDE AND OUT.

If you ask the tastemakers who select, SQUARING THE CIRCLE
critique and sell the best new timepieces
about what’s new and exciting in the Finally, wanting to start his own family business
world of watches, you can count on one and create watches bearing the Ferrier name, he
name coming up over and over again.
Laurent Ferrier, a genial Swiss gentle- launched an eponymous company. For the first
man with a resume that reads like the watches, Ferrier found inspiration in nature.
blueprint for being a renaissance man, The Galet name, so often associated with
has mastered the art of conservative Laurent Ferrier, means “pebble” in French. He
refinement that marks the best time- chose pebble because, in designing the case,
pieces made in the Geneva tradition. he hoped to mimic the smooth, natural, and
rounded sides of a stone eroded by water
By now, Ferrier’s story is and time. Inside his first watch was a
legendary among the watch- tourbillon with two inversed balance
collecting cognoscenti: His long springs as refined as any crafted in all
and distinguished career was of Switzerland.
spent rising through the In the years since that first
ranks to become the head Galet premiered, Laurent Ferrier
of creation development at has remained busy developing new
Patek Philippe. In between models based on the pebble con-
developing the most collect- cept, most recently a cushion
ible and complicated models for shaped interpretation called the
that august marque, Ferrier found Galet Square. The most complicated
thrills and success behind the of these is the new Galet Classic
wheel of a racecar. The pinnacle of Square. Ferrier’s choice of a white
this automotive avocation came when gold case and white enamel dial typify
he and his team placed near the top of the discretion and conservatism espoused
the field at the 24 Hours of Le Mans. by the master watchmaker. Ferrier even
To this day, the lush contours of hides the fact that this masterpiece is a tour-
mid-twentieth-century Porsches inform billon from all but the wearer, who must flip
Ferrier’s watch-design aesthetic. the watch over and view it through its sap-
phire caseback in order to see the escapement.
The hand-wound tourbillon movement The only dial-side hint that this watch is a tour-
featuring Ferrier’s double-hairspring design
is shown here in the round Galet case. billon comes from a faint, transfer-printed line of
gray text — so faint, in fact, that it almost blends
into the enamel.

64

The Galet Classic Square’s radiant
enamel dial conceals its signature
complication, which is only visible
from the back.

65

LAURENT FERRIER Left: This 41mm steel version
of the Galet Square winds
The cushion-shaped Galet Square also comes in a somewhat less automatically thanks to a
complicated, time-only version, though even this timepiece comes pawl-fitted micro-rotor.
equipped with an escapement worthy of mention. Not only is
this in-house automatic caliber outfitted with a pawl-fitted
micro-rotor, its silicon escapement — dubbed the Laurent
Ferrier Natural Escapement — features a double direct im-
pulse on the balance, following a design first outlined by
A.L. Breguet. The effect of the double direct impulse is
not just accuracy, but also efficiency. On a single wind,
this watch runs for more than 70 hours.

MAKE YOUR MOVE

One of the most compelling complications for modern
watch collectors is the dual-time zone. Ferrier expresses
this category in the Galet Traveller series, seen here with a
three-dimensional “globe” dial in deep-night blue. The watch
functions via pushers on the case side that advance the travel
time (indicated via the hour and minute hands emanating
from the central axis). The top pusher advances
the hour hand in one-hour increments and
the bottom pusher moves it backward.
The home time of the wearer displays
in a 24-hour format at the 9 o’clock
position, thereby ensuring the
wearer can read whether it’s
day or night at home. When
advancing the local time
past midnight, the date win-
dow naturally reacts appro-
priately. But what’s most
impressive about this watch
may just be its three-dimen-
sional enamel dial, the depth
of which captivates the wearer
while effortlessly communicating
the utility of its functions.

Another recent version of the
Traveller presented in Geneva earlier
this year is the Traveller Boréal, a
timepiece that introduces a sporty and
useful application of Super-Lumi
Nova for the first time in the compa-
ny’s history. The Traveller Boréal is
careful to conceal its potential for
greenish glow behind a tan sector ring
matching its vintage-inspired tan strap.
If there was ever a Laurent Ferrier week-
end watch, this is probably the one.

Above: Blue champlevé enamel adorns
the dial of this white gold Galet Traveller
Globe Night Blue.

Right: In addition to this steel Traveller Boréal,
another version is available that features a
black dial with green markers.

66

Left: There is a miniature painting
hiding behind the Galet Secret’s
retractable dial.

Below: The 40mm rose gold Galet Micro
Rotor’s automatic movement includes a
silicon escapement.

LITTLE SECRETS

Laurent Ferrier also has a playful side well known to collectors. The watchmaker may
produce some of the most classically designed wristwatches available today, but
within one model, there is a trick beneath the dial. With the Galet Secret, Laurent
Ferrier has created a multi-part dial that reveals a beautiful, handmade piece of art
with the push of a button integrated into the crown. Additionally, the watchmaker
can also set the watch so the artwork is revealed at a pre-determined time cho-
sen by the owner. This beautiful rendering of a night sky, its clouds illuminated
by a full moon, is indeed a secret revealed at the watch owner’s discretion.
Only then could anyone guess what lies beneath the beautiful sunray dial.

And yet, an even bigger secret is revealed when the wearer turns the
Galet Secret over. Inside is an in-house tourbillon movement. In fact, it is the
first of its kind, outfitted with double balance springs, which further enhance
and refine the very raison d’etre of the tourbillon, to compensate for the effects
of gravity on the watch’s rate.

And finally, there is the Galet Micro Rotor, the flagship within Ferrier’s
range. This time-only wristwatch, presented here in rich rose gold, is a kind of
platonic ideal — or at least Laurent Ferrier’s ideal — of the wristwatch. Everything
from its hour markers and hands to its rounded crown and 39mm case has been de-
signed and executed with a rare degree of care. Upon first wearing this timepiece, one
senses an immediate timeless quality, a modern classic with the enduring longevity of
excellent design.

With design inspiration coming from enduring places like nature and classic cars,
and movements produced to a level unsurpassed by any brand, Laurent Ferrier watches
have a lasting quality that remains uncommon even among high-end timepiece designs.
It’s clear that these are the kind of rare wristwatches that, once acquired, collectors will
never consider selling. ¨

67

PARMIGIANI FLEURIER

PHUauRtSeUIT

BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

AS PARMIGIANI FLEURIER The Tonda Chronor Anniversaire boasts an integrated
chronograph movement with a split-seconds function.
CELEBRATES 20 YEARS, IT

CONTINUES TO UPHOLD THE

HIGHEST STANDARDS OF

SWISS CRAFTSMANSHIP.

Michel Parmigiani, a master
watchmaker with a gift for re-
storing antique watches and
clocks, founded his epony-
mous firm in the Swiss village of Fleurier
in 1996. Over the past two decades, the
brand has risen to become a respected
player on the fine watchmaking landscape.

GOLDEN ANNIVERSARY

To celebrate the occasion, Parmigiani
Fleurier unveiled the Tonda Chronor
Anniversaire, the watchmaker’s first inte-
grated chronograph. This means the chrono-
graph is built into the hand-wound movement,
unlike most, which use a separate module to
measure elapsed time.

The integrated construction isn’t the only
thing that makes this particular chronograph so
special. Parmigiani also endowed it with a split-
second function that allows the wearer to time two
events that begin simultaneously, but end at different
times. In another flourish, the chronograph is struc-
tured around a column wheel instead of a simple cam,
which is more difficult to construct but smoother to operate.
And it employs a vertical clutch, which is more accurate than
a horizontal clutch.

What’s more, the movement of the Tonda Chronor Anniversaire
is crafted in rose gold, marking a significant technical achieve-
ment, in light of the metal’s malleability and the demanding
standards it must meet to keep time accurately.

Available in two handsome 42mm versions — white gold
with a white grand feu enamel dial, or rose gold with a blue
grand feu dial — the technically impressive model is a fitting
tribute to Parmigiani’s milestone.

68

METROSPECTIVE From left: The 40mm steel
Tonda Métrographe Abyss
The Tonda Métrographe Abyss, another in-house chronograph from the Parmigiani comes on a titanium
manufacture, speaks to the brand’s expertise in the decorative and design arts. and steel bracelet or an
Hermès strap.
The most obvious example is the dial’s eye-catching shade of abyss blue. Two versions of the Tonda
Parmigiani artisans use a complex process of electrolysis to achieve this signature Métropolitaine Selene are
color. The brand’s design skill can be found in the case’s slightly asymmetrical available: with a white
silhouette. The left side is conventional while the right side features elongated mother-of-pearl dial, or with
lugs that extend to the crown and surround the push buttons to reflect a fresh, Parmigiani’s signature abyss
urban sensibility. blue dial.
Below: The Tonda 1950
The ladies’ counterpart to the masculine Métrographe range is found in a Qualité Fleurier’s white
line of feminine watches called Tonda Métropolitaine. This year, Parmigiani lacquer dial features
unveiled the Tonda Métropolitaine Selene, a bewitching moon phase model hand-painted numerals.
in a 33mm steel case — with or without a diamond-set bezel — that features
an in-house movement. 69

But this isn’t just any moon phase model. The russet-colored moon depicted
on the dial is studded with craters that mimic the lunar seas and are made
through a complex process of layering. Elsewhere on the dial, the silhouette of a
lotus flower — beloved by cultures around the world for its nighttime bloom —
is reproduced using mother-of-pearl lace designs.

QUALITY TIME

The Tonda 1950 Qualité Fleurier is a classic rose-gold timepiece that adheres to a
high set of performances standards. Since 2004, Parmigiani has been involved with a
third-party certification organization known as the Fleurier Quality Foundation,
which certifies timepieces — like this Tonda 1950 — that pass its rigorous testing. In
doing so, this gorgeous timepiece affirms Parmigiani’s considerable contribution to
the world of fine watchmaking. ¨

PIAGET

Measuring 42mm across, the Piaget
Polo S’s cushion-shaped case and
integrated bracelet are made in
stainless steel. This model is $9,350.

70

CMLAodSeSrnIC
BY STEPHEN PULVIRENT

THE PIAGET POLO S BREAKS WITH TRADITION,
BUT MAINTAINS THE BOLD STYLE THAT
MAKES PIAGET WATCHES SO ICONIC.

Some watch brands try to do a little bit of SOMETHING DIFFERENT
everything. One year it’s all about dive
watches, the next it’s nothing but chrono- The new Piaget Polo S is the result of such an ex-
graphs. The year after that, it’s tuxedo- periment. While those standards set by the Piaget
level dress watches or bust. It might sound obvi- brothers in the 1950s declared that Piaget would
ous, but this is not a great strategy. It produces only make watches in precious metals, the Piaget
neither the most interesting watches, nor the Polo S is the quintessential steel sport watch. It’s
most dedicated collectors. A little focus goes
a long way. something to be worn everyday by a new gen-
eration of watch collectors and something
Piaget has, for the better part of a with a hint of nostalgia for those already-
century, been extremely focused. Split established connoisseurs.
between bustling Geneva and the quiet If the name Piaget Polo sounds
mountain village of La Côte-aux-Fées, familiar, it’s with good reason. In 1979,
Piaget’s manufactures have been Piaget created a gold watch with a
turning out incredible ultra-thin fully integrated case and bracelet
watches of the very highest quality, with that name. It quickly became
and making them in precious metals an early-Eighties icon, with its
with classic styling. These watches geometric design, pared-back
feature hand-worked, in-house dial, and slightly rakish char-
movements (of which the brand cur- acter. It was such a hit that in
rently makes 37 that qualify as ultra- 1985, the Piaget polo team paraded
thin) and carry the DNA articulated by down New York City’s Fifth Avenue
Gérald and Valentin Piaget in 1957, in a show of celebration. This was far
when they declared that all Piaget watches from just a sleeper hit known only to
must be precious inside and out. the watch–obsessed.
The Piaget Polo S starts with a round
But, importantly, focus doesn’t mean 42mm stainless steel case and a cushion-
stasis. Piaget pushed boundaries in 2014 shaped steel bezel. The bezel is polished
with the 900P, the world’s thinnest mechanical
watch, and even was a major player back in the around the outer edge, which slopes up to a
1970s in developing the famous Beta 21, the first brushed finish across the top, better setting off
luxury Swiss quartz movement. With the values the cushion-shaped dial inside. That dial comes in
of the past firmly cemented and a unique per- three colors — blue, slate gray, and silvered —
spective in mind, Piaget is free to experiment and features horizontal ridges that run from edge
while staying true to what makes it special. to edge, allowing the light to play off the colors
differently at different angles.

The three-handed version of the Piaget Polo S has a ridged
dial that comes in either blue, silvered, or slate gray (shown).

71

PIAGET

Piaget’s in-house automatic
movement powers the Polo S
Chronograph, which is $12,400.

As a sporty, easy-to-wear watch, the Piaget Polo S needed finishing and the slate gray oscillating weight that keeps it
to be simple-to-read at a glance. The three-hand configuration powered as you go about your day.
is as basic as things get, with long sword-shaped hands, filled
with bright Super-LumiNova, and a slim central seconds hand. Additionally, the brand is offering a two-register chrono-
Applied indexes, also filled with Super-LumiNova, match the graph version of the Piaget Polo S. It uses the same 42mm case
hands, and a discrete date window is tucked down at 6 o’clock size (though is a little thicker at 11.2mm) and retains most of
so as not to disrupt the balance of the dial. the time-only version’s styling. The dial features the same ridges,
in either blue or silvered colors, and the harmony between the
The bracelet feels fully integrated into the case, and the hands and markers is exactly the same. There are just two over-
broad central links are brushed, while the slimmer H-shaped sized registers at 3 and 9 o’clock to measure elapsed minutes
outer links are polished. The contrast is reminiscent of the and hours, respectively, and the central seconds hand is for the
bezel and furthers the all-in-one effect. As you’d expect from chronograph (instead of the active timekeeping). All of this is
Piaget, the Piaget Polo S is slim at just 9.4mm top to bottom. powered by the 1160P, another in-house movement and visible
through the watch’s sapphire caseback.
Inside ticks the 1110P, a new self-winding mechanical
movement designed and manufactured in-house by Piaget. The Piaget Polo S is a study in how Piaget can leverage its
Would you have expected anything else? The movement is visible focus and strengths to create something new. It looks like we
through the watch’s sapphire caseback, letting you admire the might have another classic on our hands already.

72

CENTER OF ATTENTION

Piaget might be shaking things up, but it certainly hasn’t forgotten how
to make a superlative jewelry watch. The Limelight Gala Milanese is a
reminder of how Piaget became the king of the Mid-Century jewelry
watch to begin with, and how many creative ideas remain unexplored in
the category.

At first glance, the Limelight Gala
Milanese is a relatively straightforward
32mm round-dialed watch. Look closer.
The opaline dial is structured around
t h e s l i m silver-toned or rose gold–
colored Roman numerals and needle-
thin hands that match the bracelet
and cases, which are made in either
rose gold or white gold. Around that
dial are two rows of diamonds,
each curved with one of the swirl-
ing asymmetrical lugs that seem
to twirl right out of the dial. It’s
all very reminiscent of our own
Milky Way galaxy, adding a bit
of cosmic poetry to the mix. The
62 brilliant-cut diamonds (total-
ing about 1.75 cts) are graded per-
fectly, so they seamlessly blend
with the lugs’ undulating curves.
Finishing things off is an integrated,
gold-mesh bracelet with a signature slid-
ing “P” clasp.

Seeing the Piaget Polo S and Limelight
Gala Milanese side-by-side, it’s easy to get a
sense of what makes Piaget a special manu-
facture. Whether working in precious rose
gold or robust stainless steel, the watches’
cases are shaped to evoke timelessness and
everything from gem-setting to movement
construction is considered with the same
attention and precision. When choosing what
to focus on, incredible thoughtfulness is
never a bad choice. ¨

Available in a rose or white gold case, the Limelight Gala Milanese comes with
a matching mesh bracelet.

73

ROGER DUBUIS

SSkPeIlDetEaRl S

BY MICHAEL THOMPSON

ROGER DUBUIS Red elements
enhance the
ENHANCES ITS
Excalibur Spider
POINÇON DE GENÈVE Skeleton Double
Flying Tourbillon’s
APPEAL WITH three-dimensional

SKELETON MOVEMENTS appeal.

FEATURING BOLD TWIN TWISTERS

COLORS AND No other manufacturer makes or sells as many double tourbillons as Roger
Dubuis, which debuted its first in 2009, just four years after it created its first
UNCONVENTIONAL skeletonized watch.

MATERIALS, INCLUDING The latest model in that dual-escapement collection is the Excalibur Spider
Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon, with a red-tinged crown, red-aluminum
A CUTTING-EDGE inner bezel and red-tipped gold hands. This watch utilizes color expertly to
enhance its three-dimensional appeal. The red hue also boosts immediate read-
CARBON CASE. ability while adding more than a hint of sportiness to the 47mm titanium and
black DLC-titanium case. Through the side of case, the wearer can eye the
T raditional Swiss watch manufacturers red-aluminum inner bezel, which is dotted with luminous applied screws that
embellish their skeletonized models double as hour markers.
with intricate flowers, delicate pat-
terns and lacy engraved flourishes. The flying tourbillons that give the watch its name have matching Celtic-
Most also start with existing movements and cross shaped cages that turn counterclockwise as they tick off the seconds.
then cut away excess metal to create their Despite the hand’s unusual direction, the seconds are easy to read thanks to the
‘skeleton’ version of that caliber. counters, which are also ordered counterclockwise. It’s an unexpected twist to an
already complex watch and shows off the brand’s bold technical and aesthetic
But when Roger Dubuis makes a skeleton personality to great effect.
(or openworked) caliber, the Geneva-based
watchmaker prefers to defy tradition. Watch-
makers at this young manufacturing compa-
ny don’t remove excess metal when creating
skeleton movements, but instead build entire-
ly new openworked movements, from the idea
phase to the finished product.

Roger Dubuis’ best-selling Excalibur col-
lection continues to grow with new Spider
models that extend the brand’s openwork
motif to the case, lugs and hands. On the
Excalibur Skeleton Automatic, that openwork
design even includes a skeletonized oscillat-
ing micro-rotor — a first for Roger Dubuis. Of
course, each Excalibur Spider, like every
watch from Roger Dubuis, is certified to meet
the quality demands of the Poinçon de Genève.

74

BLUES BROTHERS From top: The Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying
Tourbillon’s black-rubber bezel is set with 60
The Excalibur Spider Single blue sapphires.
Flying Tourbillon and Excalibur
Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon The bold blue elements add personality to the
are new 45mm models that recre- Excalibur Spider Single Flying Tourbillon,
ate the same three-dimensional, shown in a 45mm titanium case.
skeletonized appeal of the dual-
tourbillon Spider model, but A skeletonized micro-rotor powers the Excalibur
with a pared down single Skeleton Automatic, which has a lightweight,
flying tourbillon. The first black-carbon case.
model offers the same
brushed, numbered and
notched titanium bezel
seen on the dual-tourbillon
model, but with blue
rather than red accents on
the internal bezel and
crown.The latter model, with
a black DLC-coated titanium
case, delivers an unexpected
surprise by setting 60 baguette-
cut sapphires into the black-rubber
bezel. The brand has already patent-
ed this groundbreaking gem-setting
technique.

EFFICIENCY EXPERT

Roger Dubuis uses micro-rotors in all
its automatic movements, but in the
new Excalibur Skeleton Automatic
Carbon it raises the bar with a
skeletonized oscillating weight.
The watch itself is clad in a
high-tech composite known as
carbon fiber sheet molding
compound (SMC), which is
produced by compressing
carbon fibers with resin
and steel, then molding
them at extremely high
temperatures. The result-
ing material is then re-
worked and compound-
ed with resin. Both harder
and lighter than its gold-
cased cousins, this carbon
version is sportier too, with
blackened-gold hands tipped
with red to match the minute
track.

With cutting-edge materials,
new colors and novel watchmaking
techniques, the Excalibur collection
resonates strongly with those who seek
contemporary design and a skeletonized
in-house movement. ¨

75

ULYSSE NARDIN

High Seas Meets
HIGH HOROLOGY

BY JASON HEATON An engineering
masterpiece, the
A LONG HISTORY OF NAUTICAL Marine Tourbillon
Grand Deck com-
TIMEKEEPING INSPIRES THREE bines a tourbillon
with a jump hour
NEW ULYSSE NARDIN WATCHES. display and a
unique retrograde
Despite its land-locked headquarters in the Swiss minute counter.
Alps, Ulysse Nardin has always had a strong tie to
the sea. In 1846, after finishing his apprentice-
ship, the company’s namesake founded his
own manufacture in Le Locle, and concentrated his
efforts on building marine chronometers.

In those days, navigating a ship relied on a sextant,
a clear view of the sky, and a chronometer — a pre-
cise timepiece that could keep time for weeks on
end while being pitched to and fro by the unpre-
dictable rolling of the waves. Ulysse Nardin
earned a reputation for building chronometers
suitable for seafaring that has carried to the
present day. With the new Marine Tourbillon
Grand Deck, Ulysse Nardin translates its nau-
tical heritage into an extraordinary timepiece.

In a modern age of satellite navigating, this
watch is still accurate enough for celestial way-
finding if you ever end up offshore with dead bat-
teries in your GPS. Its vaunted accuracy can be
attributed to a movement driven by two mainspring
barrels, one dedicated to timekeeping and the other to
the watch’s complications. A tourbillon rotates the escape-
ment once every 60 seconds to balance out the deleterious
effects of gravity on the watch’s rate.

Despite its timekeeping prowess, it’s not the movement
that’s most impressive about the Marine Tourbillon Grand Deck.
That distinction goes to the unique time display, which incorpo-
rates Dyneema, a polyethylene fiber that, when woven into a
strand, is many times stronger than steel. The material is also
much lighter and immune to corrosion, which is why it’s used for
riggings on modern sailboats. Here, it’s used to pull the “boom” of
the retrograde display across the dial. As time passes, the boom
travels across the minute scale, snapping back at the passing of
each hour, which is shown in an aperture at the top. Continuing the
nautical theme, the wood-marquetry dial is made to resemble the
teak decking used on sailing yachts. The watch, which is limited to a
mere 18 pieces, is a fitting continuation of Ulysse Nardin’s history of
seafaring timekeeping.

76

Left: The Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar requires
a calendar adjustment only once a year and is water
resistant to 100 meters.

Below: Limited to just 18 pieces, this Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon
includes a revolutionary constant force escapement.

UNDER SAIL

Equally capable and outstanding in its own right is the
Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar. As its name sug-
gests, this is not only a 12-hour chronograph, but it also
tracks the month and date for a full year, requiring correc-
tion only at the end of February. While this is an elegant watch,
the Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar remains suitable for
extended time at sea with a steel case that is water resistant to
100 meters.

Finally, hearkening back to its innovative roots, the Ulysse
Anchor Tourbillon continues Ulysse Nardin’s tradition of precision
timekeeping with a tourbillon and constant force escapement made
from anti-magnetic silicium. All of this engineering is housed in a refined
white or rose gold case that boasts a textured enamel dial in a color that
is fittingly as deep blue as the sea.

For a company that got its start building marine chronometers,
Ulysse Nardin has stayed true to its nautical legacy. These new timepieces
advance the brand’s reputation for innovation and precise timekeeping
while evoking a direct connection to the sea. ¨

77

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

MAPSaTstER

BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

VACHERON CONSTANTIN
HAS BEEN AT THE VANGUARD
OF MECHANICAL WATCHMAKING
SINCE 1755 — AND IT INTENDS TO STAY THERE.

V acheron Constantin can take pride in something that is true of only a handful of Swiss watchmakers:
It has managed to thrive for centuries without growing old-fashioned.
Since 1755, the Geneva-based manufacture has produced timepieces of exceptional quality
and delivered them to kings, queens, celebrities, captains of industry and connoisseurs. And yet
the revered maison remains at the forefront of innovation in terms of both style and substance. For proof,

look to its highly sought-after mechanical watches, whose extraordinary technical features, contem-
porary design codes, and Hallmark of Geneva certification ensure that the brand lives up to its
remarkable historic reputation.

PLATINUM STATUS

Few wristwatches reflect Vacheron Constantin’s capabilities better than the Patrimony
Perpetual Calendar Collection Excellence Platine, which was unveiled earlier this
year in Geneva. As the newest model to join the watchmaker’s flagship Patrimony
collection, the timepiece is the embodiment of classic horology.
Whereas simple calendars need to be manually corrected after every month
with fewer than 31 days, the perpetual calendar keeps ticking, as its name
suggests, in (virtual) perpetuity. Beloved by watch aficionados, the compli-
cation allows for the watch to display the correct date, including leap
years, until March 1, 2100. The technical know-how required to keep
track of minute irregularities in the calendar is matched only by
the expertise it takes to miniaturize the movement so that it
remains ultra-thin, slimness being a signature feature of
Vacheron Constantin’s timepieces.
The model’s 41mm platinum case houses an auto-
matic winding movement (caliber 1120 QP) that bears
an exceedingly slender profile; just 4.05mm thick.
The dial, meanwhile, contains a wealth of infor-
mation — date counter, moon phase, day of
the week, plus a 48-month display with a
leap year indication — without sacrific-
ing the clean and sophisticated styling
for which Vacheron is known.

78

The Patrimony Perpetual
Calendar Collection
Excellence Platine is
offered in a numbered
and limited edition of
100 pieces.

79

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

BIG TIME

Even though the Patrimony collection remains Vacheron Constantin’s
iconic line of dress watches, the brand recently endowed three of its
models with a more generous 42mm case.

The minimalist aesthetic of the new Patrimony timepieces —
which come in platinum, white gold, or rose gold editions — mixes
taut lines with gentle curves to create a pleasing and powerful design
statement. The dials — slate-colored in the platinum version and
silver opaline in the gold versions — are
simple and understated. A small seconds
subdial is the watch’s lone concession
to ornamentation.

The Patrimony 42mm is equipped
with a sapphire crystal caseback that
reveals the watch’s hand-wound move-
ment, which was designed, developed
and built entirely in-house as part
of the watchmaker’s strict manufac-
turing process.

Below: An automatic movement
powers the Patrimony Small
Model, which is just 8.1mm thick.

Left and above: Now available in a 42mm
gold or platinum case, the new Patrimony
retains its Hallmark of Geneva certification.

REFINED ROMANCE

For its new Patrimony Small Model, Vacheron Constantin opted to
take the opposite tack. Instead of boosting the watch’s diameter, the
watchmaker designed a compact 36mm timepiece that’s ideal for
smaller wrists.

Equipped with an automatic movement certified by the Hallmark
of Geneva, the streamlined watch measures just 8.1mm thick. Its silver
opaline dial features an aperture-type date display and a central sec-
onds hand, as well as long applied hour markers. Available on a white
or rose gold bracelet, the Patrimony Small Model is the perfect time-
piece to wear every day. Understated and classic looking, it blends
seamlessly with office attire, and yet, when paired with an evening
wardrobe, it easily transitions into night.

80

GLOBAL AMBITION

If the Patrimony collection represents Vacheron Constantin’s refined and serious side,
the Overseas collection reflects its sportier and more robust persona. Introduced in
1996, the Overseas model borrowed some of its design elements from the legendary
“222,” a sport watch fitted with a screwed-down bezel and caseback that was
presented in 1977 to honor the watchmaker’s 222nd anniversary (the 222 was itself
derived from Vacheron’s steel form watches of the 1930s.)

With world travel as its guiding inspiration, the Overseas has remained a
touchstone for the brand for the past two decades. Reinvented earlier this year,
the collection now includes the handsome Overseas World Time, a model
that displays 37 time zones on the dial — even those offset by a quirky
quarter-hour (such as Nepal.)

Encased in steel and boasting three dial variations — translucent
blue, silver-toned, or brown lacquer— the World Time model, with its
iconic six-sided bezel, features a Lambert projection map depicting the
continents and oceans, as well as a translucent lacquered disc marked
with city names. A sapphire overlay uses subtly graded smoky tints to
indicate day/night hours, while a translucent and lacquered outer ring
shows the hours and minutes.

Developed and manufactured entirely in house according to the strict
guidelines of the Hallmark of Geneva, the World Time is powered by an auto-
matic movement that carries a 40-hour power reserve. Interestingly, the model
achieved a high rating of anti-magnetism (it is protected up to 25,000 A/m) while
maintaining a sapphire crystal back. The watch is fitted with an interchangeable
strap system that includes a stainless steel bracelet, an alligator leather strap and
a rubber strap.

Right: The Overseas World Time’s
signature complication is an extremely
versatile tool for frequent travelers.

Left: Ready for any occasion, the
Overseas Small Model comes with a
bracelet and two straps, all of which
are easily interchangeable.

SMALL WONDER

For jetsetters with a strong sense of style, the Overseas Small Model
features all the signature touches of the collection — from the gold
luminescent faceted hands and hour markers to the Maltese Cross em-
blem on its bracelet. It addition, it includes 84 round-cut diamonds,
totaling more than one carat, that decorate the six-sided bezel.

Available in either stainless steel or rose gold with three dial vari-
ations — rosy beige, blue or brown — the model’s 37mm case houses a
new in-house automatic movement with a 48-hour power reserve.
Visible through the sapphire caseback is a 22k gold oscillating weight
decorated with a wind rose. Like all watches in the Overseas collec-
tion, the Small Model is sold with three interchangeable bracelet and
strap options. And like all of Vacheron Constantin’s mechanical time-
pieces, it bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.

All of which is by way of saying that even as the firm is now
entering its 27th decade of continuous operation, make no mistake:
Vacheron Constantin is, and will remain, a paragon of contemporary
watchmaking. ¨

81

WALTHAM

The AN-01’s steel case is
unapologetically sporty
with its multi-angle
design and Nomex-
reinforced leather strap.

82

CONTEMPORARY

CLMAEESTSSIC
BY ADAM CRANIOTES

WALTHAM TAKES FLIGHT IN A NEW ERA WITH A

COLLECTION WORTHY OF ITS STORIED HERITAGE.

W hen collectors hear the name INSPIRATIONAL PAST
Waltham, they immediately
think of pocket watches, and Today’s Waltham draws its inspiration
for good reason. In its heyday, from the cockpit clocks used in such leg-
the 150-year old Massachusetts-based endary aircraft as Charles Lindbergh’s
manufacturer produced more than one
million timepieces a year, most of which record-setting Spirit of St. Louis and the
were worn on the end of a chain, and vaunted F-4 Phantom fighter jet. Side-
not on the wrist. Notable owners in- by-side, the heritage is clear, with the
clude the likes of Abraham Lincoln, dial layouts hewing to the clean leg-
Nikola Tesla and Sir Ernest Henry ibility of their forebears, which
Shackleton, all of whom one could enabled at-a-glance readouts of
easily envision casually pulling mission-critical information.
out their Waltham pocket In a bit of a twist, however,
watch from their vest pocket the cases adopt a far more con-
to check the time. Waltham temporary, angular form, which
was also the main supplier of creates an interesting contrast
Railroad Chronometers to the between the old and the new.
North American railroad indus- Dubbed the AeroNaval, this new
try — no mean feat, given that collection debuted with three
transportation and trade in turn- models: the time-only XA, the
of-the-century America depended on dual time CDI and the ETC cen-
the trains running on time. tral chronograph. All three are
rendered in titanium and ceramic,
Of course, Waltham didn’t only make with a bold 47mm diameter.
pocket watches; marine chronometers and
cockpit instruments were also on the menu. SIZE MATTERS
And as times changed and wristwatches be-
came the norm, Waltham was there, too. The Waltham refined and streamlined the
“Trench Watch,” which was manufactured for AeroNaval aesthetic to create the AN-01,
U.S. soldiers fighting in World War I, was one a new model that debuted this year with a
of the first mass-produced wristwatches, and would later more compact (43mm) stainless steel case
evolve into the legendary Type A-11, which was used during and a more conventional dial layout. What
WWII by American pilots, as well as the British RAF. remains intact, however, is pure contemporary Waltham with
the trademark dodecagonal case, integrated Nomex-reinforced
rubber strap and unique hands.

A sapphire crystal inset on the back shows the finishing on the AN-01’s automatic movement.

83

WALTHAM

There are three different dials to choose from,
including silver, which manages to dress the AN-01 up,
though truth be told, these pieces are unapologetically
sporty. As with the XA and its stable mates, the CDI
and ETC, the textured aluminum dial remains, which
adds a bit of drama to the proceedings with its clever
tessellated “W” motif.

Another feature that differentiates it from the debut
collection is the inset sapphire window on the caseback,
which affords the owner a peek under the hood. In the
case of the AN-01, we’re talking about an ETA 2824-2
automatic movement, which sports perlage on the main-
plate and côtes de Genève on the engraved rotor.

The sporty, almost aggressive aesthetic is backed
up by an ample 100 meters of water-resistance, which
makes the AN-01 an excellent companion for an active
lifestyle, both in the clouds, and closer to Earth.

Waltham adds a touch of color to the XA Pure, Sporting an interlocking “W” pattern, the silver dial
which is now available with red or blue highlights. provides contrast against the black ceramic bezel.

84 COLORFUL PERSONALITY

Everybody knows about Charles Lindbergh and his
legendary plane, the Spirit of St. Louis. Together
they completed the first manned crossing of the
Atlantic Ocean, and in doing so, went down in the
record books. But what most people don’t know is
that Lindbergh wasn’t alone on his flight. Prior to
taking off, he replaced the standard dashboard
clock with a Waltham XA-Type 37, and the rest, as
they say, is history.

Fast forward to today, and the XA carries the
torch of its predecessor, but with a modern touch.
The intricately detailed case — water-resistant to
300 meters — is hewn from grade-5 titanium and
the bezel is crafted from scratch-resistant zircon-
ium dioxide. The dial, however, carries over almost
exactly from the Type 37, with the running seconds
subdial positioned above the center pinion at 12
o’clock. For power, the XA uses an automatic move-
ment derived from the Dubois-Depraz 14060.

BRIDGE TO THE FUTURE

This year also sees the introduction of three
new dial configurations, including blue, red
and yellow highlights, as well as a silver-dialed
version.

The CDI has the modern traveler covered
with true GMT functionality. As with the XA,
the CDI was likewise inspired by a cockpit
clock. It takes its design cues from the CDIA —
Civil Date Indicator Aeronaval — that was
mounted onboard the WWII-era B24 Liberator
and F6F Hellcat. Indeed, in the clearest example
of shared heritage, it is from this instrument
that Waltham adapted their dodecagonal case
design. Push buttons on the side of the case
allow the user to advance or move back the hour
hand on-the-fly, while a third button sets the
novel center date indicator.

This stealthy ETC features a PVD-coated To go with its user-friendly GMT function, the CDI
titanium case, ceramic bezel and black dial. Pure is now offered with a handsome silver dial.

Rounding out the collection is the ETC,
which is based on the F-4 Phantom’s on-board
chronometer, the A13a ETC. In a fresh twist, the
chronograph’s minute and second counter are
both centrally mounted — just as they were on
the original — which makes reading elapsed time
a breeze.

Ultimately, the new AN-01 forwards the mis-
sion established by the first wave of the AeroNaval
collection. It brings Waltham confidently into the
21st century by way of a knowing nod to its past.
As for what the future may bring, there’s still
plenty of history for the reborn Waltham to draw
inspiration from. What form that inspiration will
take; only time will tell. ¨

85

BEST OF INSTAGRAM

Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII Best of Ovale Pantographe
IWC Parmigiani Fleurier
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Rendez-Vous Celestial Swiss Alp Watch S Millenary
Jaeger-LeCoultre H. Moser & Cie. Audemars Piguet

Historiques Aronde 1954 Galet Traveller USA Skull Maori PHOTOGRAPHS: SCOTT HICKEY
Vacheron Constantin Laurent Ferrier HYT

Hydroscaph H1 Chronometer Lange 1 Time Zone AN-01
Clerc A. Lange & Söhne Waltham

TB88 Velvet Haute Joaillerie Rotonde de Cartier Reversed Tourbillon
Arnold & Son Roger Dubuis Cartier

PHOTOGRAPHS: SCOTT HICKEY Double Tourbillon 30° Technique Altiplano Freak Cruiser and Freak Phantom
Greubel Forsey Piaget Ulysse Nardin

CLOCKWISE

CLOCKWISE
a glossary of horological terms

1. ADLC (OR DLC) 1a 1b

The acronym for Amorphous Diamond
Like Carbon, a dense black coating for
metal that combines graphite and dia-
mond forms of carbon. It offers excel-
lent protection against corrosion and is
scratch-resistant.

2. ANNUAL CALENDAR 2a 2b

A calendar function that automatically
compensates for the irregular lengths
of months. It requires an annual adjust-
ment — when February changes to March
— hence the name.

3. AUTOMATIC 3a 3b

(OR SELF-WINDING) 1a. Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon by Roger Dubuis
This complication replaces manual 1b. Skull Bad Boy by HYT
winding in wristwatches by converting 2a. Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar by Ulysse Nardin
the wearer’s everyday motions into 2b. Big Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar Edition “Le Petit Prince” by IWC
stored energy, which powers the me- 3a. Trasmissione Meccanica Chronograph by Giuliano Mazzuoli
chanical movement. A winding box may 3b. AN-01 by Waltham
also be used to achieve the same results.
For both methods, the motion spins a ro-
tor connected to the movement, which
generates energy by tightening the
mainspring. It’s also worth noting that
an automatic movement may also be
wound using the crown.

88

4a. Double balance spring assembly by Audemars Piguet 4. BALANCE
4b. Double Balancier by Greubel Forsey
5a. Double-barrel by Audemars Piguet Similar to the pendulum in a pendulum
5b. Nebula by Arnold & Son clock, this regulating mechanism ensures
a steady timekeeping rate in wristwatch-
6. Galet Classic by Laurent Ferrier es. Comprised of a balance spring fixed
7. Pilot’s Watch Chrono Top Gun Miramar by IWC to a weighted balance wheel, the device
is connected to the mainspring. When the
4a 4b mainspring releases energy, it swings the
balance wheel in one direction, called an
5a 5b oscillation, which tightens the balance
spring. When the balance spring releases
67 this stored energy, it propels the balance
wheel back an equal distance in the op-
posite direction, transferring energy to
the drivetrain, which powers the watch
movement. The balance’s precise back-
and-forth motion divides time into equal
parts and is the source of the watch’s sig-
nature “tick-tock.”

5. BARREL

This cylindrical receptacle is lined with
teeth around its circumference. It holds
the mainspring, which is attached at one
end to the barrel and at the other to the
arbor (axle) on which the barrel turns.
Winding the watch turns the barrel,
which increases the mainspring’s ten-
sion. After winding, the mainspring re-
leases the energy that powers the watch
movement.

6. CALIBER (OR CALIBRE)

Originally referred to the measurement
of the watch movement, but modern us-
age indicates a type of movement i.e.
men’s caliber, automatic caliber. Watch-
makers can use the caliber name and
number to indicate the company, shape
and origin.

7. CERAMIC

This material is used in watchmaking,
primarily for case production. Valued for
its qualities, ceramic is 30 percent light-
er than steel, virtually scratchproof, im-
pervious to rust and smooth to the touch.

89

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8. CHAPTER RING 8. Reverso Tribute Duo by Jaeger-LeCoultre
9. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar by H. Moser & Cie.
The numerals or indices on the edge of the 10a. Piaget Polo S Chronograph by Piaget
dial that indicate the hours and some- 10b. Tonda Chronor Anniversaire by Parmigiani Fleurier
times minutes. 11. Hydroscaph H1 Chronometer by Clerc
12. Column wheel by Vacheron Constantin
9. CHATON
89
A gold ring in which a jewel bearing is
set; typically found only in the finest 10a 10b
movements.
11 12
10. CHRONOGRAPH

A watch with a manually operated stop-
watch function that measures intervals
of time.

In addition to the basic chronograph,
there are two other popular versions:

-FLYBACK: allows instant re-set of the
timing function.

-SPLIT-SECOND: allows simultaneous
timing of two events that begin at the
same time but end at different times.

11. CHRONOMETER

A timepiece that is precise enough to be
used as a time standard. Under Swiss
regulations, only watches that have been
tested and certified by authorities such
as the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des
Chronomètres) can be called a chronometer.

12. COLUMN WHEEL

Used in high-quality chronograph move-
ments, this toothed wheel coordinates the
chronograph’s start, stop and reset func-
tions. A traditional design, the column
wheel is more labor-intensive to produce
than other styles of chronographs.

90

13 14 13. CONSTANT FORCE
ESCAPEMENT
15 16
Ensures the level of energy transferred
17 18 from the barrel does not vary in order to
maintain consistent timekeeping.
13. Constant escapement mechanism by Girard-Perregaux
14. H2 Tradition by HYT 14. COMPLICATION
15. Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine
Any function in a manual-winding watch
by Vacheron Constantin or clock additional to the display of
16. Cellini’s exclusive deployant buckles in 18-karat gold hours, minutes and seconds including:
17. Zeitwerk Minute Repeater by A. Lange & Söhne automatic winding, date, calendar, moon
18. Calibre de Cartier Diver by Cartier phase, power reserve and GMT, to name
a few.

15. CÔTES DE GENÈVE

(OR GENEVA STRIPES)
Created by a rose engine lathe, this
pattern of undulating waves is used
frequently to decorate movements
found in fine timepieces.

16. DEPLOYANT BUCKLE

A tri-folding enclosure affixed to both
ends of a strap or bracelet. When fully
deployed, enough room is created to place
the watch on the wrist. When closed, a
buckle covers the folding mechanism that
secures the watch to the wrist.

17. DECIMAL REPEATER

This specialized repeater indicates the
time audibly on demand using a series
of high and low tones that represent the
hours, 10-minutes and minutes.

18. DIVE WATCH

A timepiece that meets the international
safety standards defined by ISO 6425.
Those requirements focus on durability
(water resistant to at least 330 feet),
safety (unidirectional rotating bezel)
and legibility (luminous elements).

91

CLOCKWISE

19. DUAL TIME ZONE (OR GMT) 19a. Galet Traveller by Laurent Ferrier
19b. CDI Eclipse by Waltham
The terms dual time and GMT are often
used interchangeably because they share 20. Illustration of Lange 31 escapement by A. Lange & Söhne
the same purpose — to display the time 21. Quantième Perpétuel à Équation by Greubel Forsey
in two different time zones simultane- 22a. Fleurier Quality Foundation (FQF)
ously. There is, however, a slight distinc- 22b. Tonda 1950 Qualité Fleurier by Parmigiani Fleurier
tion. A GMT watch displays a time zone
using a 24-hour index that can be used 19a 19b
to determine if it’s day or night in that
location. A dual-time zone watch uses a 20 21
12-hour index, often paired with a day/
night indicator. 22a 22b

20. ESCAPEMENT

The component of a mechanical watch
that is responsible for the advancement
of the wheel train rotation and the even
passage of time. The escapement in a
watch is usually controlled by the bal-
ance wheel.

21. EQUATION OF TIME

A complication that calculates the dif-
ference between the mean solar day
which lasts 24 hours, and the true solar
day, whose length varies from the mean
solar day between +16.24 and -14.22
minutes throughout the year due to the
tilt of the Earth’s axis and the eccentric-
ity of its orbit around the sun.

22. FLEURIER QUALITY
FOUNDATION (FQF)

An independent group based in the vil-
lage of Fleurier, Switzerland dedicated
to evaluating watches made anywhere
in Switzerland. To be certified by the
FQF, a watch must pass rigorous tests
related to chronometry and durability,
and also exhibit superlative finishing.

92

23a 23b 23. GENEVA SEAL

24 25 Available exclusively to watch move-
ments made in the City or Canton of
26 27 Geneva, this insignia certifies that a move-
ment has satisfied a list of criteria relat-
23a. Geneva Seal logo ed to both aesthetics and performance.
23b. Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Collection Excellence Platine The Geneva Laboratory of Horology and
Microengineering serves as an impartial
by Vacheron Constantin judge that oversees the certification pro-
24. Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication by Cartier cess and is responsible for awarding this
25. Eight-Day Royal Navy by Arnold & Son prestigious accolade.
26. Endeavour Small Seconds by H. Moser & Cie.
27. Marine Tourbillon Grand Deck by Ulysse Nardin 24. GRAND COMPLICATION

While there is no formal definition for
this term, it’s generally agreed that a
grand complication includes a minimum
of three complications, one from each
of the following categories: timing
(chronographs), astronomical (calendars,
equations of time and moon phases) and
striking (repeaters and alarms).

25. GUILLOCHÉ

An engraving technique that results
in very fine lines etched onto a flat, level
surface. Brands often express person-
ality and creativity by decorating dials
and movements with beautifully intri-
cate patterns of guilloché.

26. JEWELS

Precious stones (usually synthetic rubies)
used in a watch movement that act as
bearings for pivots and help reduce fric-
tion. Most movements contain at least a
dozen jewels but can feature more.

27. JUMPING HOUR

A watch that advances the time by
“jumping” to the next hour, usually
through a digital display window. Jump-
ing hour watches use mechanical move-
ments with numbers on wheels below
the dial that change as time advances.
The numbers appear to change instanta-
neously every hour.

93

CLOCKWISE

28. MANUFACTURE 28. Ulysse Nardin Manufacture, La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland
29. Galet Micro-Rotor by Laurent Ferrier
A term the Swiss watch industry uses to 30. Minute Repeater Tourbillon with Gold Bridges by Girard-Perregaux
distinguish a company that produces a 31. Métropolitaine Selene by Parmigiani Fleurier
watch from start to finish, instead of 32. Panthère Mystérieuse by Cartier
sending it to a finishing shop where the 33. Caliber RD821 by Roger Dubuis
parts are assembled and calibrated.
28 29
29. MICRO-ROTOR
30 31a
Invented in the 1950s, this smaller ver-
sion of the traditional oscillating weight 32 33
is used to wind the mainspring in some
automatic watches. Its diminutive size
results in a thinner movement.

30. MINUTE REPEATER

Indicates the time using tonal patterns
created when tiny hammers strike finely
tuned gongs. It chimes the hours, quar-
ter hours and minutes on demand. One
of the most labor-intensive timepieces
to produce, it can take up to a year to
manufacture.

31. MOON PHASE

This complication calculates and dis-
plays the lunar cycle. Many moon phases
advance once every 24 hours, which
requires that they be adjusted every two
and a half years. More complex models
do not require adjustments for hundreds
of years.

32. PAVÉ

Gems set as closely together as possible
in order to conceal a metal base.

33. PERLAGE

(French for “pearling”) A decorative pat-
tern of overlapping swirls sometimes
applied to watch movements. It’s applied
by hand using a spinning drill fixed
with a wooden or rubber polishing bit.

94

34a 34b 34. PERPETUAL CALENDAR

35 36 A calendar function that calculates and
displays the date, day, month and leap
37 38 year without any adjustment by the user.
This remains true until the year 2100,
34a. Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar by Audemars Piguet when there is no leap year due to the
34b. Master Ultra Thin Perpetual by Jaeger-LeCoultre Gregorian calendar. All watches record
time, the moments that make up a day,
35. Big Pilot’s Watch Edition “Le Petit Prince” by IWC but perpetual calendars keep track of all
36. Richard Lange Jumping Seconds by A. Lange & Söhne of those days. Depending on the watch,
37. Contagiri 8C Competizione by Giuliano Mazzuoli there are many different types of indi-
38. Caliber 1110P by Piaget cators that display the specific day, date
and month.

35. POWER RESERVE

This function measures and displays the
amount of power stored in the mainspring.

36. REGULATOR

A clock or wristwatch that displays the
hours, minutes and seconds separately.
Sometimes called a parent clock, manu-
facturers used to set their timepieces to
precise regulators because the separate
displays were easy to read, making for
exact adjustments.

37. RETROGRADE

A hand that travels across the dial in an
arc — usually from 90 to 180 degrees —
instead of a 360-degree revolution around
a centrally fixed point. When a retrograde
hand finishes its journey across the dial,
it returns instantaneously to begin a new
measurement. Retrograde hands can in-
dicate date, day or month in perpetual
calendars, but can also be used for hours,
minutes or seconds.

38. ROTOR

(OR OSCILLATING WEIGHT)
Found in a watch with automatic wind-
ing, this semicircular weight — powered
by the owner’s physical movements —
rotates to tighten the mainspring, which
stores reserve energy.

95

CLOCKWISE

39. SILICON (OR SILICIUM) 39 40a

An element used in watchmaking to cre- 40b 41
ate everything from escapement wheels
to balance springs. Prized for its prop- 42a 42b
erties, silicon is lightweight, anti-mag-
netic, resists corrosion and does not 39. Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon by Ulysse Nardin
require lubrication. 40a. Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon by Roger Dubuis
40b. UTTE Skeleton by Arnold & Son
40. SKELETON
41. Competizione Stradale Chronograph by Girard-Perregaux
A watch movement that is transparent or 42a. Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision by Greubel Forsey
cut out in a decorative manner in order to 42b. Rotonde de Cartier Astromystérieux by Cartier
reveal all of the movement’s parts. Tradi-
tional watch dials display the current
functions of time, date or day for a specific
moment in time. A skeletal dial further
reveals the watch’s movement and how its
mechanism calculates on-going time.

41. TACHYMETER

A scale that often accompanies a chrono-
graph that measures speed. A tachymeter
usually indicates speed in kilometers
per hour.

42. TOURBILLON

Sometimes referred to as a ‘whirlwind,’
the tourbillon counteracts the effects of
gravity on the balance and escapement
thus aiding better accuracy. This is
achieved by housing the balance, balance
spring and escapement in a rotating
carriage (cage). Invented for the pocket
watch by Abraham-Louis Breguet in
1801, the tourbillon remains a popular
function.

96

43 44 43. TRAIN (OR GOING TRAIN)

45 46a A system of toothed wheels and pinions
used to convey energy stored in the main-
46b 47 spring to the escapement.

43. Illustration of Caliber 380 by Jaeger-LeCoultre 44. TRUE BEAT SECONDS
44. Geophysic Universal Time by Jaeger-LeCoultre
45. Caliber 4101OR by Audemars Piguet (OR DEAD SECONDS)
46a. Hydroscaph Central Chronograph Small Second by Clerc A seconds hand that pauses for each
46b. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar by H. Moser & Cie. increment rather than travel in a contin-
47. Overseas World Time by Vacheron Constantin uous motion.

45. VIBRATIONS

A measurement that indicates the fre-
quency of semi-oscillations (half turns)
made by the balance wheel; usually
measured in vibrations per hour (vph).
Most high-frequency (or high-beat)
mechanical movements vibrate between
six and 10 times a second, or 21,600 vph
and 36,000 vph respectively. (In compar-
ison, a typical quartz movement vibrates
about 235 million times an hour.) While
there are many factors that influence a
watch’s timekeeping accuracy, generally
speaking, the more often a movement
vibrates, the more accurate it will be.

46. WATER RESISTANT

A watch designed to prevent water from
entering the case. An atmosphere (atm)
is the measurement used to gauge how
water resistant a watch is. Watches rat-
ed 3 atm resist infiltration by water to a
conventional depth of 30 meters; rated 5
atm resists to a conventional depth of 50
meters.

47. WORLD TIME

Refers to a watch that indicates the local
time in major cities around the world,
usually representing each of the 24 time
zones. The names of the cities are typi-
cally displayed on an outer ring on the
dial or on the bezel of the watch. ¨

97

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