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The
Netherlands
PDF ebook
Edition 6th Edition
Release Date May 2016
Pages 320
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4 easy-to-use How to Use This Book
sections
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
1
1 Sights 4 Sleeping
PLAN YOUR TRIP
r Beaches 5 Eating
Your planning tool kit
Photos & suggestions to help 2 Activities 6 Drinking
you create the perfect trip.
C Courses 3 Entertainment
2
T Tours 7 Shopping
ON THE ROAD
z Festivals 8 I&nfTorramnsaptioornt
Your complete guide
Expert reviews, easy-to-use & Events
maps & insider tips.
All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference,
3 starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we
UNDERSTAND suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author
preference.
Get more from your trip Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
Learn about the big picture, to range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
make sense of what you see. ranges, by author preference.
4 These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Must-visit recommendation
Your at-a-glance reference
Vital practical information Sustainable or green recommendation
for a smooth trip.
No payment required
% Telephone number f Ferry
h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
n Nonsmoking apt apartments
a Air-conditioning d double rooms
i Internet access dm dorm beds
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus
For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
The
Netherlands
Friesland Northeast
(Fryslân) Netherlands
p193 p207
Haarlem & Central
North Holland Netherlands
p100 p219
Amsterdam #_
p38
Rotterdam Utrecht
& South p134
Holland
p145
Maastricht &
Southeastern Netherlands
p236
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Catherine Le Nevez, Daniel C Schechter
PLAN ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to the AMSTERDAM . . . . . . . 38 Texel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
Netherlands. . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Muiden. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
The Netherlands’ Map. . . 6 HAARLEM & NORTH Het Gooi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
The Netherlands’ HOLLAND . . . . . . . . . 100 Flevoland. . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Top 10. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Lelystad. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 14 North Holland. . . . . . . . . 102 Urk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
What’s New. . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Haarlem. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
If You Like…. . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Around Haarlem. . . . . . . . . 107 UTRECHT. . . . . . . . . . 134
Month by Month. . . . . . . . 20 Zaanse Schans. . . . . . . . . . 107
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Waterland Region. . . . . . . . 108 Utrecht City. . . . . . . . . . . 135
Cycling in Alkmaar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Around Utrecht City. . . . 142
the Netherlands. . . . . . . . 26 Broek op Langedijk . . . . . . 115 Kasteel de Haar. . . . . . . . . 142
Travel with Children. . . . . 31 Hoorn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Utrechtse Heuvelrug
Regions at a Glance. . . . . 34 Enkhuizen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 142
Medemblik. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Amersfoort . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
Den Helder . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Oudewater. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
STEVEN SWINNEN / GETTY IMAGES © JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET / GETTY IMAGES ©
CUBE HOUSES, ROTTERDAM
P148
AMOSS / LONELY PLANET ©
DUTCH TULIPS P255 BRIDGE OVER SINGEL
CANAL, AMSTERDAM P73
Contents
UNDERSTAND
ROTTERDAM Northwest Groningen . . . . 215 The Netherlands
& SOUTH Hoogeland. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252
HOLLAND . . . . . . . . . 145 Bourtange. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254
The Dutch
South Holland. . . . . . . . . 147 Drenthe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Way of Life. . . . . . . . . . . . 264
Rotterdam. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Assen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Dutch Art. . . . . . . . . . . . . 269
Around Rotterdam. . . . . . . 161 Kamp Westerbork . . . . . . . 218 Architecture . . . . . . . . . . 276
Dordrecht . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Dwingelderveld The Dutch
Biesbosch National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Landscape. . . . . . . . . . . . 281
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Dutch Cuisine. . . . . . . . . 286
Slot Loevestein. . . . . . . . . . 165 CENTRAL
Gouda. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 NETHERLANDS . . . . 219 SURVIVAL
Den Haag (The Hague). . . 168 GUIDE
Delft. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Overijssel. . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
Leiden. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 Deventer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Directory A–Z. . . . . . . . . 292
Around Leiden . . . . . . . . . . 186 Zwolle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 Transport. . . . . . . . . . . . . 299
Kampen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
Zeeland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 Weerribben-Wieden Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314
Middelburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 228 Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . . 319
Around Middelburg . . . . . 190 Northern Overijssel. . . . . 228
Waterland Neeltje Twente. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 SPECIAL FEATURES
Jans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 Cycling in
Schouwen-Duiveland. . . . . 192 Gelderland. . . . . . . . . . . . 229 the Netherlands. . . . . . . . 26
Nijmegen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Travel with Children. . . . . 31
FRIESLAND Around Nijmegen. . . . . . . 232 Cheese, Gin & Monuments
(FRYSLÂN) . . . . . . . . 193 Arnhem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 Walking Tour. . . . . . . . . . . . 64
Oosterbeek. . . . . . . . . . . . 234 Dutch Art . . . . . . . . . . . . 269
Leeuwarden Hoge Veluwe
(Ljouwert). . . . . . . . . . . . 195 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 234
Waddenzee Coast. . . . . . 198 Apeldoorn. . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
Harlingen (Harns) . . . . . . . 198
MAASTRICHT &
Southwestern SOUTHEASTERN
Friesland . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 NETHERLANDS . . . . 236
Sneek (Snits) . . . . . . . . . . . 199
Hindeloopen (Hylpen). . . . 201 Maastricht. . . . . . . . . . . . 237
Around Maastricht. . . . . . 243
Frisian Islands. . . . . . . . . 201 North Limburg . . . . . . . . . 243
Vlieland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
Terschelling. . . . . . . . . . . . 203 Noord Brabant . . . . . . . 244
Ameland. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Den Bosch
Schiermonnikoog. . . . . . . 205 (’s-Hertogenbosch). . . . . 244
Around Den Bosch. . . . . . . 247
NORTHEAST Eindhoven. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247
NETHERLANDS . . . . 207 Tilburg. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248
Breda. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248
Groningen City. . . . . . . 208
Around Groningen . . . . . 215
4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Welcome to the
Netherlands
Tradition and innovation intertwine
here: artistic masterpieces, windmills,
tulips and candlelit cafés coexist with
groundbreaking architecture, cutting-
edge design and phenomenal nightlife.
Art & Architecture Cycling
The legacies of Dutch Masters such as Rem- The flat, fabulously scenic landscapes
brandt, Vermeer, Van Gogh, Frans Hals, make cycling in the Netherlands a pleasure
Hieronymus Bosch, Piet Mondrian and (headwinds notwithstanding). Cycling is an
MC Escher hang on the walls of the Neth- integral part of life and locals live on their
erlands’ world-renowned museums, along fiets (bicycle): more than a quarter of all
with contemporary Dutch works. journeys countrywide are by bike, rising to
more than a third in big cities.
The Dutch influence on construction
spans more than a millennia, from Roman- Experiencing the wind-in-your-hair
esque and Gothic medieval magnum opuses freedom of cycling is a breeze. Bike-rental
to Dutch Renaissance creations, revolu- outlets are ubiquitous, and the country is
tionary Golden Age gabled houses and criss-crossed with some 32,000km of cycling
engineering endeavours including canals, paths, including the Dutch ‘motorways’ of
neoclassicism, Berlage and the Amsterdam cycling, the long-distance LF routes. Grab
School, functionalism, modernism, struc- some wheels and start exploring.
turalism, neorationalism, postmodernism
and neomodernism, with trailblazing struc- Café Culture
tures making their mark on the cityscapes.
When the Dutch say café they mean a pub,
Landscapes and there are thousands of them. In a coun-
try that values socialising and conversation
Geography plays a key role in the Nether- more than drinking, cafés are places for
lands’ iconic landscapes. More than half contemplation and camaraderie. Many cafés
the pancake-flat country is below sea level, have outdoor terraces, which are glorious in
and 20% has been reclaimed from the sea, summer and sometimes covered and heated
making rows of polders (areas of drained in winter. Most serve food, from bar snacks
land) omnipresent. Uninterrupted North to fabulous meals. The most atmospheric
Sea winds have powered windmills since is a bruin café (brown café), named for the
the 13th century, pumping water over the nicotine stains of centuries past – the ulti-
dykes, and milling flour and more. Some mate place to experience the Dutch state of
two-thirds of the surface is devoted to agri- gezelligheid (conviviality, cosiness).
culture, including fields of tulips.
PHOTOSMATIC / SHUTTERSTOCK © 5
Why I Love the Netherlands
By Catherine Le Nevez, Writer
Visionary architecture, vintage-meets-contemporary fashion and interiors, street markets
selling rainbows of fresh flowers, haring (raw herring), caramel-filled stroopwafels (waffles)
and cheese, and borrel (drinks) at canal-side cafés are all reasons I love the Netherlands. But
what I love about the country above all is its spirit. If something doesn’t exist, the Dutch will
design it, build it, manufacture it, recycle it, craft it, launch it (the Netherlands is one of the
world’s hottest start-up hubs) and make it a reality. There’s a sense that anything’s possible
here (and it invariably is).
For more about our writers, see page 320
Above: Canal, Amsterdam (p38)
The Netherlands 5ºE 0 40 km
0 20 miles
4ºE 6ºE 7ºE
Schiermonnikoog
SchiermonnikoogNational Park
Ameland Roodeschool
NORTH Terschelling
SEA
Holwerd Lauwersoog Uithuizen
Texel
Artisan producers and Hogebeintum Delfzijl
activities abound (p121)
VlielandW Leeuwarden Dokkum GRONINGEN Eemskanaal A7
addenzee Groningen
Texel A31 N355
Den Winschoterdiep E22
Helder Franeker Margrietkanaal
Harlingen
FRIESLAND
Drachten
A7
Makkum E22 Sneek A7 Bourtange
A7
53ºN E22 Assen
E22 Workum Heerenveen
Hindeloopen E232
A28
Stavoren A32
IJsselmeer
NOORD Weerribben DRENTHE Emmen
HOLLAND Medemblik A6 National Park
A37 E233
Giethoorn
Hoorn Enkhuizen Urk E232 A28
Alkmaar A7 Schokland
E22 Kampen
Noordzeekanaal Purmerend Edam Lelystad Zwolle
Volendam FLEVOLAND OVERIJSSEL
Velsen A8
IJmuiden A6 A50
Kennemerland Monnickendam Oostvaardersplassen IJssel
AMSTERDAM Nature Reserve
Amsterdam National Park A9 A10 A28
Explore Golden Age Haarlem
Muiden Almere E232 Almelo
canals (p38) Amstelveen
A4 Schiphol
International Naarden A30 A1
Hengelo
Schiphol Naarden A1
52ºN VWhDeeorsemmtletaneesetPcoDrrho'woesjeunlefcwttx(epqn1u7iHs5io)teeSRDkcouvhtaitovenureZdHwliaaeoMemnrlinlk(daoT-zTnDNnehhdKseoeeteaoenHtHrrwHdaOHiwZgajWkuLaUigjeLaakuiIAlADalAg2aeen0Nai-m)rnZpDsAeotZ1eaAr3etAdD2e19AE5e149lAfR1tA2oL44etAtEEi53ed29LAEa05AKr1ie1/sG9d6ildsnnpAeaoDdhRameueloisrjnmddnrOidaejkuerdAreG1eEIAc23nwoi1htr1erapAtirtUN2oEnne73AErrtAai0c3t5er2Zt59huieNaAoweBlc1natBN5mbRhaetiUioOlgeAtomsTenBObiRamEAnAo3Rl2Es5eAAN7PcCDHlD21AAhaTH1iorml2voZkTeeArenrriomssDunt VgmeLeeeernnksefnBoOeoonssAdrsA5cMta03hOa0aWloaEssaE3At0aNdeHlepraboteEegAi2oele13dnk2VaoAleo3lP2urN5awnrAAiekj5rm0nAeAh7Z7A1geu23Det4mp8enDEhNv3ee5eannVtitoeeGlnruaEwAlLT1ePD8wzAaoE1eroRnkntLeAkNaHnDaoaolgDfeinsVEacnteoulvsurceeAwhr3a5eemndNdHaesaeatntreigtrope(nplioae2lc3eP4sa) rk
Breda A261
Domburg Noord- A17 A73
Veere Beveland E312 Tilburg
Walcheren Roosendaal A2 Helmond
Middelburg Goes Bergen A58 E25
op Zoom
Eindhoven Airport
Vlissingen Zuid-Beveland A58 Eindhoven
ZEELAND E312 A4 Rotterdam A67
A city-sized gallery
of architecture (p147) A67 E34 Venlo
Zeeuws-Vlaanderen
A2
LIMBURG
E25 Roermond GERMANY
Thorn
ELEVATION Maastricht Julianakanaal Sittard
Delve into Roman
500m
200m history (p237)
0
below sea level BELGIUM A76
Maastricht Heerlen
A79 Kerkrade
Valkenburg
A2
8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
The Netherlands’
Top 10
9
Canal Ring, Amsterdam Architecture, Rotterdam
1 The Dutch capital is a watery won- 2 Unlike many European cities that
derland. Amsterdam (p38) made its emerged from the ashes of WWII with
fortune in maritime trade, and its Canal hastily reconstructed city centres, Rotter
Ring was constructed during the city’s dam (p148) pursued a different path from
Golden Age. Stroll alongside the canals the start. Its architecture is striking rather
and check out the narrow, gabled houses than simply functional and contributes to
and thousands of houseboats; relax on a its glittering, skyscraper-defined skyline.
canal-side café (pub) terrace; or, better The world’s best architects compete here
still, go for a ride. Cruises and boat rentals for commissions that result in eye-popping,
abound. From boat level you’ll see a whole one-of-a-kind designs, such as a ‘verti-
new set of architectural details, such as cal city’ (the country’s largest building),
the ornamentation bedecking the bridges a forest of cube houses, a pencil-shaped
and, come nightfall, glowing lights reflect- residential tower, a swooping white cable-
ing in the ripples. stayed bridge, a fantastical horseshoe-
shaped covered market, and an ethereal
‘cloud-like’ building housing the city’s his-
tory museum. Markthal Rotterdam (p159)
VICTOR MASCHEK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
DENNIS VAN DE WATER / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
10
Artistic Masterpieces Cycling
3 The Netherlands has produced a wealth 4 Grab a bike and go. You can rent them
of famous artists. In Amsterdam, Rem- anywhere, and no nation on earth is
brandt’s The Night Watch, Vermeer’s Kitchen better suited for cycling (p26). Not only
Maid and other Golden Age treasures fill the is it as flat as a classic Dutch pancake but
mighty Rijksmuseum (p59), the Van Gogh there are thousands of kilometres of bike
Museum hangs the world’s largest collec- lanes and paths linking virtually every part
tion by tortured native son Vincent, while of the country. You can see polders (areas
the Stedelijk Museum shows Mondrian, surrounded by dykes where water can be
de Kooning and other Dutch visionaries. artificially controlled) and creaking tradi-
Outside the capital, Haarlem’s Frans Hals tional windmills (as well as tulips blooming
Museum collects the painter’s works, Rot- in springtime), and hear cows lowing in
terdam’s Museum Boijmans van Beuningen expansive green fields before arriving at
spans all eras, and Den Haag’s Mauritshuis the next enchanting village.
unfurls a who’s who of Dutch Masters.
Rembrandt’s The Night Watch at the Rijksmuseum
MARK READ / LONELY PLANET ©
3
PLAN YOUR TRIP The Netherlands’ Top 10
MARK READ / LONELY PLANET © 11JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET / GETTY IMAGES © PLAN YOUR TRIP The Netherlands’ Top 10
45
6
PAVEL DUDEK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Brown Cafés Maastricht
5 Gezelligheid has no English translation 6 The city where Europe’s common cur-
but is better experienced than defined. rency began has been a meeting place
It refers to the uniquely Dutch state of con- for centuries. The Romans built under-
viviality, cosiness, warmth, good humour ground forts here that you can still explore,
and sense of togetherness that is a hall- and every generation since has left its mark.
mark of the country’s famous brown cafés But 2000 years of history, magnificent mon-
(p289). Named for their aged, tobacco- uments, mighty ruins, soaring churches and
stained walls from centuries past, these sublime museums aside, where Maastricht
small, snug, history-steeped pubs are filled (p237) really shines is in how it embraces
with good cheer. There are around a thou- the moment. Few places in the Netherlands
sand in Amsterdam alone, and countless have such a dense concentration of cafés
others throughout the country. It takes and restaurants, filled with people coming
little time, on even your first visit, to be together to enjoy every minute of life. Statue
drawn into their welcoming atmosphere. of Johannes Petrus Minckelers (p238)
12
Dutch Cheese cheese span the country. Noordermarkt cheese
stall (p94)
7 Names like Gouda and Edam inspire
notions of Dutch cheese (p287) more
immediately than the municipalities that
spawned them. In both these towns, as
well as in Alkmaar, you can visit traditional
cheese markets in season that have taken
place on the main squares for centuries.
The Netherlands’ renowned cheese comes
in a vast range of styles and flavours, such
as aged cheeses that are crystallised like
a fine Parmesan, as well as varieties such
as caraway-seed-infused and mustard
cheese. Shops stocking huge wheels of
SARA WINTER / GETTY IMAGES ©
SARAH COGHILL / LONELY PLANET ©
PLAN YOUR TRIP The Netherlands’ Top 10
78
PAUL OOMEN / GETTY IMAGES © 13 PLAN YOUR TRIP The Netherlands’ Top 10
9
10
ALEXEY FEDORENKO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Texel Hoge Veluwe National Park
8 The vast Waddenzee is recognised by 9 A vast swath of beautiful land that was
Unesco as a World Heritage site. Its once private hunting grounds, Hoge
hypnotic tidal mudflats are punctuated by Veluwe National Park (p234) combines
a string of offshore islands, including the forests, sand dunes, marshes and ponds.
largest, Texel (p121). An easy ferry ride It’s a bucolic escape from the densely
from the mainland, Texel offers glorious packed cities and you can easily spend
walks along broad, sandy beaches, near- a day here just soaking up the natural
limitless activities and a stark beauty you environment. But the real treat lies at the
can appreciate on land or on a wildlife- park’s centre. The Kröller-Müller Museum
spotting boat trip. It has superb places (p235) is one of the nation’s best, with a
to sleep, eat and drink including a slew of Van Gogh collection that rivals the name-
island producers of fruit, cheese, choco- sake museum in Amsterdam. Outside
late, ice cream, beer and (rare for the there is a stunning sculpture garden.
Netherlands) wine.
1 4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Need to Know
For more information, see Survival Guide (p291)
Currency When to Go
Euro (€) Texel
GO Apr–Oct #
Language
Amsterdam # DGeOvAepnrt–eOr ct
Dutch; English GO Year-round #
widely spoken
# RGoOttYeeradra-rmound
Visas
Warm to hot summers, mild winters Maastricht
Generally not required Warm to hot summers, cold winters # GO Year-round
for stays of up to
three months. Some High Season Shoulder (Apr & Low Season
nationalities require a (Jun–Aug) May, Sep & Oct) (Nov–Mar)
Schengen visa.
¨¨Everything is ¨¨Most sights open. ¨¨Many sights
Money open. ¨¨Few crowds. outside major cities
¨¨Your best odds ¨¨Prices are close.
ATMs widely available. of balmy weather moderate; you’ll ¨¨It may just be you
Credit cards accepted to enjoy a café only need to book and a masterpiece at
in most hotels but not (pub) terrace or a popular places in a famous museum.
all restaurants. Non- countryside bike Amsterdam. ¨¨Weather can be
European credit cards ride. ¨¨Weather can be chilly and/or snowy,
are sometimes rejected. ¨¨Crowds fill the wet and cold. Bring biking is only for the
famous museums. warm clothes for hardy.
Mobile Phones ¨¨Prices peak, book outdoor cafés. ¨¨Deals abound.
ahead.
Local SIM cards can be
used in European and
Australian phones. Most
American smartphones
will work.
Time
Central European Time
(GMT/UTC plus one
hour).
15
Useful Websites Daily Costs Arriving in the PL A N YO U R TRI P N eed to K now
Netherlands
Lonely Planet (www.lonely Budget:
planet.com/netherlands) Desti- Less than €100 Schiphol International Airport
nation information, hotel book- ¨¨Dorm bed €22–€35, private (AMS; www.schiphol.nl)
ings, traveller forum and more. room less than €60 Train Trains from the airport
¨¨Supermarkets and serve many destinations around
Netherlands Tourism Board lunchtime meal specials €15 the country, often directly,
(www.holland.com) Attractions, ¨¨Free outdoor exploration including Amsterdam Centraal
cultural events and practical Station (€4.10; every 10 min-
info. Midrange: €100–€200 utes or so from 6am to 12.30am,
¨¨Double room from €100 hourly from 1am to 5am).
Expatica (www.expatica.com/ ¨¨Good evening meal in a Shuttle bus A shuttle van (every
nl) Entertaining guide to life in casual restaurant €30 30 minutes from 6am to 9pm)
the Netherlands, with daily news ¨¨Museums and trains €20 runs from the airport to several
and listings. hotels (€17). Look for the Con-
Top End: nexxion desk by Arrivals 4.
Nederland Fietsland (www. More than €200 Bus Bus 197 (€5 one way, 25
nederlandfietsland.nl) Com- ¨¨Luxurious hotel double room minutes) departs outside the
prehensive cycling information, from €180 arrivals hall door. Buy a ticket
including maps, route descrip- ¨¨Dinner in top restaurant from the driver.
tions, rental and repair outlets. with drinks from €60 Taxi A taxi to central Amsterdam
¨¨First-class trains, guided costs approximately €47.
Windmill Database (www. tours €40
molendatabase.org) Lists every Getting Around
traditional spinner Netherlands- Opening Hours the Netherlands
wide.
Note that hours can vary by The Netherlands’ compact size
Weer Online (www.weeronline. season and often decrease dur- makes it a breeze to get around.
nl) The best weather-forecast ing the low season. Bicycle Short- and long-
resource, including a live-update Banks 9am–4pm Monday to distance bike routes lace the
three-hour rain radar. Friday, some Saturday morning. country and you are often pedal-
Cafés and bars Open noon ling through beautiful areas. All
Important (exact hours vary); most close but the smallest train stations
Numbers 1am Sunday to Thursday, 3am have bike-rental shops, as do
Friday and Saturday. most towns and all cities.
Drop the 0 when dialling an area General office hours 8.30am– Train Service is fast, distances
code from abroad. 5pm Monday to Friday. are short and trains are frequent.
Emergency %112 Museums 10am–5pm daily, Car Good for visiting regions
Netherlands %31 some close Monday. with minimal public transport.
country code Restaurants Lunch 11am– Drive on the right.
International %00 2.30pm, dinner 6–10pm. Bus Cheaper and slower than
access code Shops 10am or noon to 6pm trains but useful for remote
Tuesday to Friday, 10am to 5pm villages that aren’t serviced
Exchange Rates Saturday and Sunday, noon or by rail.
1pm to 5pm or 6pm Monday
Australia A$1 €0.65 (if at all). For much more on
€0.66 Supermarkets 8am–8pm. getting around,
Canada C$1 €0.75 see p299
€0.61
Japan ¥100 €1.36
€0.91
New Zealand NZ$1
UK £1
US US$1
For current exchange rates see
www.xe.com.
16 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
What’s New
Rotterdam Redux Miffy Museum, Utrecht
The country’s second-largest city has a Dick Bruna’s beloved cartoon bunny now
groundswell of new openings: a state- takes centre stage at the artist’s former
of-the-art skylit Centraal Station; the studio. The new museum is designed
country’s biggest building, the gleam- especially for toddlers with all kinds of
ing, glass De Rotterdam, an eye-popping imaginative interactive exhibits. (p137)
indoor market hall; a converted former
train station with experimental drink- Craft Breweries
ing, dining and entertainment venues; a Craft breweries are booming across the
crowd-funded ‘air canal’ footbridge; the country. For a superb introduction, drop by
opaque Timmerhuis building housing the one of the forerunners, Amsterdam’s
Museum Rotterdam; and urban surfing Brouwerij Troost. (p90)
on a wave barrelling through an inner-city
canal. (p145) TivoliVredenburg, Utrecht
Utrecht’s legendary Tivoli pop-music hall
Eurostar Direct Route has merged with the city’s classical audi-
No more switching trains in Belgium. From torium, expanding into a five-venue music
late 2016, a direct London–Amsterdam centre with a wildly diverse program. (p141)
route, with stops in Rotterdam and
Schiphol International Airport, will cut Museum De Fundatie, Zwolle
travel time to four hours. (p301) The UFO has landed…on top of the neo-
classical building that holds Zwolle’s con-
A’DAM Tower, Amsterdam temporary art museum. The new rooftop’s
The abandoned Royal Dutch Shell offices thousands of blue tiles cut a surreal profile
have morphed into a hub for electronic- on the skyline. (p224)
dance-music businesses. Meanwhile,
cool-cat spots continue to open in the Kantine de Brandweer, Maastricht
surrounding district of Amsterdam- Sparking a renaissance in resplendent
Noord. (p49) Maastricht’s northern quarter, the old fire
station has been made over as a multi
Museum Quarter, Den Bosch purpose cultural centre and restaurant
With 5000 sq metres of exhibit space with fine organic fare. (p242)
wrapped around a stunning swath of green-
ery, Den Bosch’s new Museum Quarter is Hanzelijn
undoubtedly the cultural highlight of the This new national rail line forges a direct
southern Netherlands. (p244) link between Amsterdam and the medi-
eval trade centres of Zwolle and Kampen,
‘Poshtels’ where there’s a new train station, Kampen
The Netherlands’ burgeoning ‘poshtels’ Zuid. (p228)
(aka posh hostels) include design-savvy
Generator in Amsterdam, artist-created For more recommendations
King Kong Hostel in Rotterdam, and and reviews, see lonelyplanet.
Eindhoven’s Blue Collar Hostel in Strijp-S, com/the-netherlands
the former Philips factory. (p68)
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 17
If You Like…
Unique Art Museum Catharijneconvent
Architecture Contains Utrecht’s cache of re-
Powerhouse museums ligious art tracing the history of
The Dutch have always packed with masterpieces Christianity in the Netherlands.
excelled at unique archi- proliferate throughout the (p137)
tecture, from Golden Age Netherlands.
canal houses to attention- Rijksmuseum The Netherlands’ Markets
grabbing visual statements top treasure chest overflows
continuing to be built with Rembrandts, Vermeers, Every city and town in the
across the country. Delftware and more. (p59) Netherlands has open-air
Amsterdam’s Canal Ring Each Van Gogh Museum Hangs the markets at least one day a
narrow, gabled canal house has its world’s largest collection of the week. Some specialise in
own distinct personality. (p38) tortured artist’s vivid swirls. organic foods or antiques;
Rotterdam The entire city is a (p59) most are held on beautiful
showcase of boundary-pushing Stedelijk Museum Renowned central squares.
modern and contemporary modern art from Picasso to Albert Cuypmarkt Amsterdam’s
architecture. (p148) Mondrian to Warhol. (p59) largest and busiest market
Hermitage Amsterdam This sells flowers, clothing, house
Rietveld-Schröderhuis satellite of Russia’s Hermit- hold goods and food of every
Utrecht home designed by a age Museum features one-off, description. (p60)
leading exponent of the De Stijl blockbuster exhibits showing Blaak Markt Antiques and
movement. (p137) everything from Matisse cut-outs ethnic-food stalls unfurl twice-
Groninger Museum Groningen’s to Byzantine treasures. (p53) weekly outside the stunning
art and archaeology treasures Mauritshuis The magnificent Markthal Rotterdam. (p160)
fill a trio of architect Alessandro royal collection in Den Haag De Hallen Themed weekend
Mendini’s phantasmagoric encapsulates all that’s great markets (organic produce,
buildings. (p209) about Dutch art. (p168) Dutch design…) take place
Rijksmuseum The facade of inside 1902-built former tram
Pierre Cuypers’ magnificent de- Museum Boijmans van sheds in the capital. (p83)
sign from 1875 has Renaissance Beuningen Rotterdam’s great- Waterlooplein Flea Market
ornaments carved in stone. est museum has works from Amsterdam flea market piling
(p59) Bosch onwards. (p147) up New Age gifts, cheap bicycle
NEMO Renzo Piano’s green- parts, clothing and more. (p94)
copper, ship-shaped science Kröller-Müller Museum Oudemanhuis Book Market
museum in Amsterdam is a A beautiful national park shel- Secondhand booksellers’ stalls
modern classic. (p65) ters a supreme collection of Van fill a moody, Amsterdam covered
ARCAM Amsterdam’s Centre Goghs and other masterpieces. alleyway. (p95)
for Architecture is a one-stop (p235) Den Haag Organic Farmers’
shop for architectural exhibits, Frans Hals Museum Reason Market Among the wealth of
guidebooks and maps. (p65) enough for any art lover to visit
Haarlem. (p103)
18 PIDJOE / GETTY IMAGES ©
local produce, don’t miss the
PL A N YO U R TRI P I f Y ou L i k e …superb crêpe stall. (p172)
De Bazaar Beverwijk One of
Europe’s largest open-air markets,
with a truly global flavour. (p106)
Westergasfabriek Sunday
Market A quality craft and gour-
met food market sets up monthly
at these converted gasworks in
Amsterdam. (p89)
Haarlem Grote Markt Mondays
and Saturdays see stalls fill Haar-
lem’s great square. (p106)
Cycling DONATAS DABRAVOLSKAS / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
While the entire country is Top: Windmills at Kinderdijk (p161)
a cyclist’s dream, there are Bottom: NEMO museum (p65), Amsterdam
some good day-trip choices
that won’t leave you too
pooped for a night out. It’s
easy to rent bikes for the
following.
Waterland Near Amsterdam,
combining classic Dutch scenery:
cows, dykes, canals and lots of
expansive green fields. (p29)
Bulb Fields In spring, cycle west
from Leiden past fields of tulips
exploding in colour. (p30)
Weerribben-Wieden National
Park Bike routes circle through
this old land of peat farming that
is rich with birds. (p228)
Hoge Veluwe National Park
Nature and beauty plus the
country’s best ice cream can be
enjoyed while using the park’s
free bikes. (p234)
Ooijpolder Route Skirt the
protected banks of the Waal River
from Nijmegen to the German
border. (p231)
Nationaal Fietsmuseum
Velorama Visit Nijmegen’s fascin-
ating collection of vintage bicycles
from the golden age of human-
powered transport. (p231)
Breda Border Loop Ride to a
shrine/brewery on Belgian soil,
returning via the bucolic Mark
River valley. (p250)
19
Scheveningen Ride north or the remote southeast corner of Take One A Maastricht institu- PL A N YO U R TRI P I f Y ou L i k e …
south along the invigorating Groningen province. (p216) tion that’s everything a Dutch
dunes and beaches to leave the café should be: engaging,
crowds behind. (p170) Islands offbeat, eccentric and with a fab
selection of brews. (p242)
History With so much water around, De Oude Jan Teensy Delft café
at times much of the country opening to a sprawling terrace
With a history as rich as feels like an island. But there with a live music stage. (p179)
the Netherlands’, you’ll find are some proper ones and Bierencafé De Heks An amiable
historic sites at every turn. they are well worth a visit. Deventer crowd gathers at this
Anne Frank Huis The secret an- Texel The largest Wadden Island café, which has an excellent
nex, Anne’s melancholy bedroom has sublime produce including beer selection. (p223)
and her actual diary are chilling cheese, chocolate, ice cream, Cafe Wolthoorn Contender for
reminders of WWII. (p52) beer and wine. (p121) the country’s most authentically
Museum het Valkhof Vlieland The least visited of the vintage café is in Groningen,
Nijmegen’s claim to be ‘Neth- Frisian Islands is almost entirely billiard table and all. (p214)
erlands’ oldest town’ is borne natural and an ideal escape. Café De Beyerd Breda’s shrine
out by the wealth of Roman (p202) to beer culture brews its own.
artefacts here. (p231) Schiermonnikoog Home to (p250)
Amsterdam Museum Intriguing beautiful beaches, the smallest
multimedia exhibits take you Frisian Island is also a good Windmills
through the twists and turns of wadlopen (mudflat-walking)
Amsterdam’s convoluted history. destination. (p205) Perhaps nothing is more
(p39) Marken Once an island fishing emblematic of the Nether-
Delfshaven Rotterdam’s old port, this tiny, traditional village is lands than its windmills.
neighbourhood still has many now linked by a causeway. (p109) Travelling the country
of the features that greeted the you’ll see many of the 1200
America-bound Pilgrims. (p158) Cafés surviving originals.
Kamp Westerbork Disturbing Zaanse Schans Tour these
museum/memorial at the site The Netherlands’ cafés still-operating windmills and
of a Nazi ‘transit camp’ for (pubs) are ideal places discover how they did far more
deportation of Holland’s Jews to drink, eat, meet and than just pump water. (p107)
during WWII. (p218) make friends, and experi- Kinderdijk The 19 windmills
Hindeloopen A tiny former fish- ence the country’s unique arrayed along a dyke here are
ing village that feels like a time gezelligheid (conviviality, recognised by Unesco. (p161)
warp to the days when people cosiness). De Valk A beloved mascot of
eked out a living here. (p201) ’t Smalle Amsterdam’s most Leiden, this restored mill has a
Deventer The entire old part of intimate canal-side drinking, fine little museum explaining
the city still has a Hanseatic with a gorgeous historic interior. how they work. (p181)
League echo 800 years on. (p88) Rotterdam Delfshaven’s
(p221) De Sluyswacht Swig in the lock- historic architecture includes a
Hunebedden Centrum In keeper’s tilted quarters across classic Dutch spinner. (p158)
Drenthe province, mysterious the street from Rembrandt’s Keukenhof Gardens The
funerary constructions of giant house-turned-museum. (p87) Netherlands’ most famous
boulders mark the Netherlands’ ’t Oude Pothuys Generations of flower gardens have a working
earliest settlements. (p218) music students have performed traditional windmill. (p187)
Airborne Museum Hartenstein at this ancient Utrecht pub. Ontstaan Uit Iepen van de
Learn about the botched WWII (p140) Molenlaan Climb up inside
battle Operation Market Garden. Cafe Derat Unassuming Utrecht Texel’s beautiful reimagined
(p234) spot pouring a changing array windmill sculpture for far-
Bourtange Meticulously of craft brews and sought-after reaching views. (p122)
restored pentagonal fortress in Lambics. (p141)
20 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Month by Month
TOP EVENTS February 1 Keukenhof
King’s Day, April
New Year’s Eve, It’s still cold and the Gardens
December nights are long but if you The world’s largest
Carnaval, February head south, you’ll find the flowering-bulb show (www.
Keukenhof Gardens, Catholic provinces getting keukenhof.nl) runs from
March ready for the year’s biggest mid-March to mid-May at
party. Lisse in the heart of the
National Windmill Netherlands’ bulb fields.
Day, May z Carnaval Buy tickets in advance.
(p187)
January On the weekend before
Shrove Tuesday there are April
The first month of the year celebrations that would
is unavoidably cold and do Rio de Janeiro or New April is all about King’s Day
dark, but on the bright side, Orleans proud, mostly in the in the Netherlands. It’s the
museum queues in major Catholic provinces of Noord show-stopping highlight of
cities are nonexistent and Brabant, Gelderland and Amsterdam’s jam-packed
you can thaw out in a cosy Limburg. Maastricht’s party calendar, but you’ll find
café by a fireplace. means days of uninhibited celebrations taking place
drinking, dancing and street all over the country.
z Amsterdam music (p240). On occasion it
occurs in early March. z King’s Day
International
Fashion Week March (Koningsdag)
Amsterdam’s fashion scene The biggest – and possibly
takes flight biannually dur If the weather complies, the best – street party in
ing Fashion Week (www. you can get a jump-start on Europe celebrates the mon
fashionweek.com), with cat bulb-field viewing in March, arch on 27 April (26 April
walks, parties, lectures and and since the season is still if the 27th is a Sunday). In
films around the city. Many off-peak, you won’t have to Amsterdam, expect plenty
events – both free and ticket fight the crowds to enjoy of uproarious boozing, live
ed – are open to the public. them. music and merriment, plus
There’s a July festival, too. a giant free market where
z European everything under the sun is
z National Tulip Day for sale. (p67)
Fine Art Foundation
The start of the annual tulip Show (TEFAF) 1 World
season is celebrated in mid- Europe’s largest art show
January. Amsterdam’s Dam takes place across 10 days Press Photo
square fills with around in the first half of March An annual show (www.
200,000 tulips, which you in Maastricht. It’s your worldpressphoto.org) of
can pick and take home at chance to pick up a Monet, stunning and often mov
the end of the day. or at least do some serious ing images shot by the best
browsing. photojournalists on the
planet. It’s on display at
2 Vierdaagse 21
Amsterdam’s Oude Kerk music as part of In late July, thousands of PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month
from late April to late June. the Netherlands’ biggest walkers, both locals and
(p67) performing-arts extrava visitors, undertake a four-
ganza (www.holland day, 120km- to 200km-long
May festival.nl). The month-long, trek (www.4daagse.nl)
high-art/low-art mash-up around Nijmegen. (p231)
Alternating rainy and happens at venues across
gorgeous weather and Amsterdam. August
plenty of historic events
make post–King’s Day a 2 Ronde om Texel August is a surprisingly
perfect time to explore the pleasant time to visit, with
country. Hope for a balmy The largest catamaran race temperatures that are
weekend to get out and in the world (www.round much milder than in many
visit the windmills. texel.com) is held off Texel; other European hotspots.
spectators line the beaches Many Dutch decamp for
z Herdenkingsdag for hours on end watching holidays elsewhere.
boats jibe back and forth on
& Bevrijdingsdag the sea. (p124) z Noorderzon
(Remembrance Day and
Liberation Day) On 4 and 5 z Oerol This hugely engaging 11-
May the fallen from WWII day arts festival (www.
are honoured in an Amster In the latter half of June, noorderzon.nl), held in
dam ceremony, followed this outdoor performance mid-August in Groningen,
by live music, debate and a festival on Terschelling features everything from
market the following day. (www.oerol.nl) is revered theatre and music to chil
(p67) nationwide as a perfect ex dren’s entertainers and
cuse for going to sea. (p204) electronic installations.
z National
z Fashion z Amsterdam
Windmill Day
On the second Saturday Festival Arnhem Pride Festival
(and Sunday) in May, 600 The modes of the moment The rainbow flag blankets
windmills throughout the take the spotlight with a Amsterdam on the first
country unfurl their sails month of events, exhibits weekend of the month,
and welcome the public and workshops at locations with oodles of parties
inside (www.molens.nl). throughout the nation’s and special events (www.
Look for windmills flying a fashion capital (www. amsterdampride.nl). The
blue pennant. fashionfestivalarnhem.nl). highlight, the Gay Pride
Parade, is the world’s only
June July waterborne spectacle of its
kind.
Visitors start flocking in for The days are long, the sun
the summer peak season. is shining, beaches get z Lowlands
The promise of great busy and outdoor cafés are
weather and very long mobbed with locals and Held in mid-August in
days draws people outside tourists alike. Biddinghuizen, Flevoland,
and keeps them there. It’s this alternative music
typically sunny and warm, z North Sea and cultural megabash
prime for bicycle rides and has campgrounds for the
drinks on canal-side patios. Jazz Festival masses (http://lowlands.nl)
In mid-July, Rotterdam to make a three-day party
z Holland Festival hosts the world’s larg of it.
est jazz festival (www.
Big-name theatre, dance northseajazz.nl). It attracts z Grachtenfestival
and opera meet offbeat digi around a thousand musi
tal films and experimental cians from around the (Canal Festival)
planet, and even bigger Classical musicians pop up
crowds. (p153) in Amsterdam’s canal-side
22 low-season prices kick in z Sinterklaas
parks and hidden gardens
during mid-August’s 10-day
PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month Grachtenfestival (www. and queues thin out. Intocht
grachten festival.nl). The St Nicholas arrives in Am
highlight of the ‘Canal z Leidens Ontzet sterdam by boat from Spain
Festival’ is the free concert for the Sinterklaas Intocht
on a floating stage in the Leiden grinds to a halt (www.sintinamsterdam.nl)
Prinsengracht. 3 October for Leidens in mid- to late November
Ontzet, commemorating and parades on his white
September the day the Spanish-caused horse to the Dam and
starvation ended in 1574. Leidseplein, to the delight
Summer may be technically Celebrations ramp up the of the city’s children.
over but September is one night before. (p183)
z International
z Amsterdam
Documentary Film
Dance Event
of the best months to visit An electronic-music pow Festival
wow on a massive scale,
the Netherlands. There are ADE (www.amsterdam- Ten days in late November
some superb festivals along dance-event.nl) sees 2200 are dedicated to screening
with fair weather and fewer DJs and artists and more fascinating true stories
crowds. than 300,000 clubbers at (www.idfa.nl) from all over
tending 450 events across the world in Amsterdam.
z Wereldhaven the city over five long,
sweaty days and nights late December
dagen in October.
In early September Rotter
dam celebrates the role of
its port, Europe’s largest.
There are boatloads of z Dutch Winter magic blankets
ship tours and fireworks. the Netherlands (as,
Festival-goers don retro Design Week some years, does snow),
get-ups for the spin-off De The southern city of ice-skating rinks set up
Nacht van de Kaap (Night Eindhoven’s key event is in open spaces, and the
of the Cape), held in Rotter this design expo, a know country is a vision of
dam’s former red-light ledge exchange and show twinkling lights.
case for young designers
(www.ddw.nl). It’s held at
quarter, Katendrecht. (p153) the Dutch Design Academy z Sinterklaas
in late October.
z Nederlands This long-standing Dutch
November tradition sees Sinterklaas
Film Festival (St Nicholas) bring presents
The Dutch film industry Cultural events and to children, and families
may be tiny, but its output reduced low-season exchange small gifts on
is generally top-notch. rates make up for the 5 December ahead of
Find out for yourself at shorter days and chillier religious celebrations for
Utrecht city’s NFF in late nights, while the arrival Christmas.
September, (www.film of Sinterklaas heralds the
festival.nl) culminating in z New Year’s Eve
the awarding of the cov
eted Golden Calf. In Amsterdam: fireworks
displays over the Amstel
start of the festive season. and elsewhere around town
(try Nieuwmarkt). Big stages
October z Glow on the Museumplein host
live bands and plentiful
During the second week of
November, the home town
A kaleidoscope of of Philips, the design hub beer tents for a giant party.
autumnal hues colours of Eindhoven, switches on Other cities have impromptu
the country’s parks and spectacular light installa raucous celebrations on
gardens, and while the tions all over the city. main squares.
weather may remain mild,
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 23
Itineraries
Waterland IJ M E E R
Haarlem •# _# •#
É
É
ÉKeukenhof Gardens •#AMSTERDAMDeventer
É •#
•#
É Kröller-Müller
É Museum
NORTH Den Haag •# Leiden Utrecht •# É
SEA É (The Hague) É
•#
•# Delft
•# Rotterdam
•# Kinderdijk
Delta Project •#É É Den•#
ÉÉÉÉ Bosch
Middelburg •# É
WESTERSCHELDE
BELGIUM GERMANY
•# Maastricht
3WEEKS Southern Sojourn
Catch the Netherlands most iconic sights on a leisurely spin around the country’s south.
Spend three days in lively Amsterdam. Visit the big museums, relax in Vondelpark,
discover the foodie De Pijp neighbourhood and hang out with the locals at earthy brown
café Hoppe on the Spui. Plunge into the city’s celebrated nightlife in the Southern Canal
Ring and escape the city by bicycle to enjoy the classic beauty of the Waterland region.
During your second week, visit Golden Age Haarlem, Keukenhof Gardens
(in season), museum-filled Leiden, the Dutch seat of government Den Haag (The
Hague), and Vermeer’s charming home town Delft.
Kick off week three in cutting-edge Rotterdam. Take the ferry to see the windmills
at Kinderdijk, then head for Zeeland’s restored capital Middelburg and the nearby
Delta Project. Travel through the Netherlands’ southern provinces, stopping for the hid-
den canals of lovely Den Bosch. Continue to Maastricht to sample some great cuisine
and meander through its medieval centre. Head north to Hanseatic Deventer and then
west to the extraordinary Kröller-Müller Museum in the Hoge Veluwe National Park.
Polish off your trip in historic, cosmopolitan university-city Utrecht.
24
NORTH Terschelli•#ngOostAermeenldand•#f#Ne•#s Holwerd •#Schiermonnikoog
SEA
f#
•# Lauwersoog
Vlieland f# f# É
f# •# É #f É É •# Leeuwarden
É
ÉTexel •#De Cocksdorp Ha•#rlingenÉ
ÉEcomare
Den É
PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries•#WADDE NZEE
Afsluitdijk
Hoorn •# •#
f# Oudeschild
•# Den Helder •# Hindeloopen
É IJSSELMEER
É
É •# Enkhuizen
•# Alkmaar Houtribdijk
Edam GERMANY
•#
•# Marken
É •# Zwolle
É
AMSTERDAM #_ •# Waterland Circumnavigating
•# Muiden the IJsselmeer
Naarden •# Island Escapes
2WEEKS Circumnavigating 1W–EE2KS Island Escapes
the IJsselmeer
This itinerary focuses on beautiful IJssel The low-lying Wadden Islands are strung
meer – Central Netherlands’ vast, shallow out like pearls in the Unesco-listed Wad-
1100-sq-km artificial lake. denzee and are perfect for island hopping.
Some ferry links require advance planning.
Spend three days in Amsterdam for
museums, parks, canal tours and nightlife. From Amsterdam, head to Texel.
Head north along the IJsselmeer coast Bike along the island’s western coast from
through the Waterland region to the tiny, sleepy Den Hoorn through dark copses
traditional fishing village of Marken. to the Ecomare seal and bird refuge.
Cycle the dykes to cute-as-a-button Edam. Comb the eastern side, visiting the superb
Stay overnight, then reach Alkmaar early Maritime & Beachcombers Museum in
to experience its centuries-old cheese mar- Oudeschild.
ket (in season), then explore the enthralling
Zuiderzeemuseum in Enkhuizen. From De Cocksdorp at the northern
end of Texel, board the morning ferry to
Travel to Den Helder, and take a ferry car-free Vlieland to explore its nature
to Texel. Spend two days on the island, and hiking trails before catching the boat
enjoying the beach and bike exploration, to Terschelling, Friesland’s main tourist
then catch a ferry to Vlieland to appreci- island. Hole up in peaceful Oosterend and
ate the wilder side of the Frisian Islands. cycle the untouched dunes, then hightail it
From Vlieland, get a ferry to charming by ferry to Harlingen, a pretty little port
Harlingen, from where Friesland’s lively on the Frisian coast, and on to Holwerd,
capital, Leeuwarden, is only a short to ferry across to languid Ameland. Stay
journey away – as are the nearby chain of in the whaling port of Nes. Return to the
coastal towns including boat-filled mainland and continue east to the port
Hindeloopen. of Lauwersoog. From here catch the
ferry to the smallest of the Frisian Islands,
Head to Hanseatic Zwolle and also visit Schiermonnikoog, home to an evocative,
the historic fortress towns of Naarden windswept national park, before returning
and Muiden. to the mainland.
25
WADDENZEE •# Groningen
É
Borger •# Bourtange
•#
•#Kamp
Westerbork
NORTH ÉIJSSELMEER Weerribben-Wieden PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries
SEA É National Park
É#÷É
ÉÉ
É
•# Zwolle
Haarlem •# AMSTERDAM É
#_
É
Keukenhof Gardens •#É •# Deventer
Den Haag •#Leiden É GERMANY
(The Hague) •# ÷# Eastern Experience
The Lay of the Lowlands
Rotterdam •# Kinderdijk É HoNgaetVioenlualwe
Park
•# ÷#BNieastbioonsachl
Dordrecht •# Park
•#Den Bosch
É
Oosterschelde Breda •#
2WEEKS Eastern Experience 1WEEK The Lay of
the Lowlands
The Netherlands’ eastern expanse is largely Hit the country’s most unmissable high-
ignored by tourists, but there are myriad lights. Begin with two days in Amsterdam.
highlights to be discovered. Visit the big-hitting museums and rent a
bicycle to explore the charming Jordaan
Begin in Groningen, a vibrant city with neighbourhood. On your second day board
students, bars, cafes and fine museums. a canal boat tour and stroll through the
Travel southeast to Bourtange, a perfectly Red Light District before getting cosy in a
preserved 17th-century fortified town, then brown café.
move on to Borger and its prehistoric
hunebedden, stone arrangements once Travel west to beautiful Haarlem –
used as burial chambers. Make your way stroll the compact historic core, and view
through the woods to Kamp Westerbork masterpieces at the Frans Hals Museum
to encounter its moving, horrible heritage. and the stained glass of the Grote Kerk
Head to Zwolle, an unhurried Hanseatic van St Bavo. In tulip season witness the
town ideal for backstreet meanders, and kaleidoscopic colours of the Keukenhof
then to Weerribben-Wieden National Gardens. Spend a day among old-world
Park for canoe-paddling. splendour in Leiden. Next, take a day in
Den Haag (The Hague) and catch the
From Zwolle it’s a short hop to Deventer, Mauritshuis’ exceptional art collection.
one of the most appealing small towns
in the Netherlands. Next, explore Hoge Head south to happening Rotterdam
Veluwe National Park, a natural oa- to tour the harbour and visit the Museum
sis that’s home to a renowned art mu- Boijmans van Beuningen, the Maritiem
seum. Head to Den Bosch, which has Museum and the architecturally striking
a dynamite museum dedicated to its food hall, Markthal Rotterdam. The next
namesake artist. Stop at Breda to enjoy morning, take a walking tour of the city’s
the city’s cafés. Go back to nature at incredible contemporary architecture, then
Biesbosch National Park before finish- travel to Kinderdijk to explore Unesco-
ing in the lovely old streets and canals of recognised windmills.
Dordrecht.
26 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Plan Your Trip
Cycling in the
Netherlands
The Netherlands is the ultimate country to explore by fiets (bicy-
cle). Even if it’s only a day pedalling along Amsterdam’s canals, or a
couple of hours rolling past dykes, you’ll be rewarded with the sense
of freedom (and fun) that only a bicycle can offer.
Good Day Trips by Bike LF Routes
Just a few of the many possibilities… While the Netherlands is webbed with bike
routes great and small, one series stands
Amsterdam to Waterland Loop out as the motorway of cycling: the LF
(37km) routes. Standing for landelijke fietsroutes
(long-distance routes, also called ‘national
One of the country’s most picturesque rides. bike routes’) but usually just called LF, this
growing network of routes criss-crosses
Amsterdam to Haarlem (50km to the country and – like motorways – are
70km return) designed to get you from one locale to
another. There are 25 LF routes compris-
A return trip to a great day-trip town that can ing close to 4500km. All are well marked
include a side jaunt to the beach. by distinctive green-and-white signs.
Den Haag to Gouda (70km to LF routes mostly use existing bicycle
80km return) lanes and rural roads, which often run
beside dykes.
A classic day trip through lush Dutch countryside
to a cute little cheese-famed town. Important LF Routes
Rotterdam to Kinderdijk ¨¨LF1 North Sea – Following the Dutch coast
(25km/50km one way/return) from the Belgian border 330km north to Den
Helder; it jogs inland briefly near Den Haag and
Cycle out to heritage-listed windmills and take a Haarlem.
fast ferry back. ¨¨LF2 Cities Route – From the Belgian border
(it starts in Brussels), this 200km route runs via
Dordrecht to Biesbosch National Dordrecht and Rotterdam to Amsterdam.
Park (25km to 50km return) ¨¨LF3 – A 555km marathon route that runs
north from Maastricht through Nijmegen to
A trip to a surprisingly natural park that is best Arnhem, then to Zwolle via Deventer and finally
appreciated by bike. Explore vast marshlands and to Leeuwarden and the north coast.
see if you can spot a beaver.
27
¨¨LF4 Central Netherlands Route – Starts at the popular items include a frame bag (for a PL A N YO U R TRI P C y cl i ng i n t he N e t herlands
coast at Den Haag and runs 300km east through windcheater and lunch pack), water bot-
Utrecht and Arnhem to the German border. tles and a handlebar map-holder so you’ll
¨¨LF7 Overland Route – Runs 385km northwest always know where you’re going. Very few
from Maastricht through Den Bosch, Utrecht locals wear a helmet, although they’re sen-
and Amsterdam to Alkmaar. sible protection, especially for children.
Information Make sure your set of wheels has a bell:
paths can get terribly crowded (at times
Cycling information is copious and widely with blasé pedestrians who don’t move)
available. Your biggest challenge will be and it becomes a pain if you have to ask
limiting yourself. to pass every time. Another necessity is a
repair kit. Most rental shops will provide
one on request. Bike theft is common;
you’ll want two good locks.
Maps & Books Getting a Bike
The best overall maps are the widely avail Your choices are hiring a bike, buying a bike
able Falk/VVV Fietskaart met Knooppunten or using your own. Each has pros and cons.
netwerk maps (cycling network; www.falk.
nl), a series of 22 that blanket the country in Hire
1:50,000 scale, and cost €9 each. The keys are Rental shops are available in abundance.
in English and they are highly detailed and Many day trippers avail themselves of
very easy to use. Every bike lane, path and the train-station bicycle shops, called
other route is shown, along with distances. Rijwielshops (www.ov-fiets.nl), which are
found in more than 100 train stations.
Beyond these maps, there is a bewilder-
ing array of regional and specialist bike Operating long hours (6am to midnight
maps, some as detailed as 1:30,000. Many is common), the shops hire out bikes from
are only available at the local tourist of- €6 to €12 per day with discounts by the
fices of the region covered. week. Many have a selection of models, in-
cluding increasingly popular e-bikes (elec-
Useful Websites tric bikes). You’ll have to show a passport
or national ID card, and leave a cash or
¨¨Cycling in the Netherlands (http://holland. credit-card deposit (usually €25 to €100).
cyclingaroundtheworld.nl) – Superb English-
language site with a vast amount of useful and The shops usually offer repairs, sell new
inspiring information. bikes and have cheap secured bike parking.
¨¨Nederland Fietsland (www.nederlandfietsland.
nl) – Dutch site that lists all the LF routes and Private shops charge similar rates but
gives basic details and an outline of each, as well may be more flexible on the form of de-
as bike-rental and repair shops. posit. In summer it’s advisable to reserve
¨¨Startpagina (http://fiets.startpagina.nl) – ahead, as shops regularly hire out their
Dutch site that lists every conceivable website entire stock, especially in places such as
associated with cycling in the Netherlands. the nearly car-free Frisian Islands where
everybody arriving wants a bike.
Clothing & Equipment
You normally have to return your bike to
Wind and rain are all-too-familiar features the place you rented it. Given that distances
of Dutch weather. A lightweight nylon jack- are short, you can easily just hop a train back
et will provide protection, and a breathable to your starting point. Some Rijwielshops
variety (Gore-Tex or the like) helps you stay do offer a one-way scheme to other shops for
cool and dry. The same thing applies to €15, so it is worth asking about.
cycling trousers or shorts.
Purchase
A standard touring bike is ideal for the Your basic used bicycle (no gears, with
Netherlands’ flat arena, and for toting a coaster brakes, maybe a bit rickety) can be
tent and provisions. Gears are useful for bought for around €100 from bicycle shops
riding against the wind, or for tackling a or the classified ads. Count on paying €150
hilly route in Overijssel or Limburg. Other or more for a reliable two-wheeler with
gears. Good new models start at around
€250 on sale. Bike shops are everywhere.
28
PL A N YO U R TRI P C y cl i ng i n t he N e t herlands Your Own Bike ¨¨Don’t ever leave your bike unlocked, even for
Flying policies vary by airline, there are no an instant. Secondhand bikes are a lucrative
formalities when crossing the border from trade, and hundreds of thousands are stolen in
Belgium and Germany, and ferries (p300) the Netherlands each year. Even if you report
usually only have a small bicycle surcharge. the theft to the police, chances of recovery are
virtually nil.
Remember the odds of your bike being Tours
stolen are high.
On the Train In most cities you’ll find companies offer-
You may bring your bicycle onto any train ing bike tours of the city. There are multi-
as long as there is room; a day pass for day trips around the country and many
bikes (dagkaart fiets; €6) is valid in the bike-tour operators.
entire country regardless of the distance
involved, but only outside peak periods, Accommodation
from 9am to 4.30pm and 6pm to 6.30am. Apart from the recommended camp-
There are no fees for collapsible bikes so grounds, there are plenty of nature camp-
long as they can be considered hand lug- sites along bike paths, often adjoined
gage. There are no restrictions on holidays, to a local farm. They tend to be smaller,
at weekends or during July and August. simpler and cheaper than the regular
campgrounds, and many don’t allow cars
Dutch trains often have special carriag- or caravans. The Stichting Natuurkampeer-
es for loading two-wheelers – look for the terreinen (Nature Campsites Foundation;
bicycle logos on the side of the carriage. www.natuurkampeerterreinen.nl) has 141
locations throughout the Netherlands.
Security
¨¨Be sure you have two good locks. Hardened You may also wish to try Trekkershutten
chain-link or T-hoop varieties are best for (www.trekkershutten.nl), basic hikers’ huts
attaching the frame and front wheel to a fixed available at many campgrounds.
structure (preferably a bike rack).
¨¨Many train-station bike-hire shops also run Many hostels, B&Bs and hotels through-
fietsenstallingen, secure storage areas where you out the country are well geared to cyclists’
can leave your bike cheaply (less than €2 per day). needs such as bike storage and e-bike
charge point. Tourist offices can help you
track them down.
¨¨Some cities have bicycle ‘lockers’ that can be
accessed electronically but these are rare.
BICYCLE ROAD RULES
Heavy road and bike traffic can be intimidating, but observe a few basics and soon
you’ll be freewheeling like a native:
¨¨Watch for cars. Cyclists have the right of way, except when vehicles are entering
from the right, although not all motorists respect this.
¨¨Watch for pedestrians. Tourists wander in and out of bike paths with no idea
they’re in a dangerous spot.
¨¨Use the bicycle lane on the road’s right-hand side; white lines and bike symbols
mark the spot.
¨¨Cycle in the same direction as traffic, and adhere to all traffic lights and signs.
¨¨Make sure you signal when turning by putting out your hand.
¨¨By law, after dusk you need to use the lights on your bike (front and rear) and
have reflectors on both wheels. If your bike does not have lights, you need to use
clip-on lights, both front and rear.
¨¨It’s polite to give a quick ring of your bell as a warning. If someone’s about to hit
you, a good sharp yell is effective.
¨¨Helmets are not required. Most Dutch don’t use them, and they don’t come
standard with a rental.
29
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PL A N YO U R TRI P C y cl i ng i n t he N e t herlands
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£#
AmWsitAOtetmoersndstbaetumrerbgruderraggemrrgr two major road bridges, when it becomes
Durgerdammerdijk, and you’re on your way.
Routes ¨¨The pretty town of Durgerdam looks out
across the water to IJburg, a major land-
Amsterdam to reclamation project that will eventually house
Waterland Loop 45,000 people.
¨¨Further north, the dyke road passes several
37km, 3½ to five hours lakes and former sea inlets – low-lying, drained
This is an excellent start to your Dutch peatlands that were flooded during storms
cycling experience: pretty scenery, cute and now form important bird-breeding areas.
towns and easy riding on good bike lanes Colonies include plovers, godwits, bitterns,
and roads. golden-eyes, snipes, herons and spoonbills.
Climb the dyke at one of the viewing points for
The eastern half of Waterland is uninterrupted views to both sides.
culture-shock material: 20 minutes from
central Amsterdam you step centuries
back in time. This is an area of isolated
farming communities and flocks of birds ¨¨The road – now called Uitdammerdijk –
amid ditches, dykes and lakes. passes the town of Uitdam, after which you turn
left (west) towards Monnickendam.
It takes a few minutes to get out of town.
¨¨First, take your bike onto the free ¨¨From Monnickendam, return the way you
Buiksloterweg ferry behind Amsterdam’s came, but about 1.5km south of town turn right
Centraal Station across the IJ River. (southwest) towards Zuiderwoude. From there,
¨¨Continue 1km along the west bank of the continue to Broek in Waterland, a pretty town
Noordhollands Kanaal. Cross the second bridge, with old wooden houses.
continue along the east bank for a few hundred ¨¨Cycle along the south bank of the
metres and turn right, under the freeway and Broekervaart canal towards Het Schouw on the
along Nieuwendammerdijk. Noordhollands Kanaal. Cross the Noordhollands
¨¨At the end of Nieuwendammerdijk, Kanaal (the bridge is slightly to the north); bird-
turn sharply and then continue along watchers may want to head up the west bank
Schellingwouderdijk. Follow this under the towards Watergang and its bird-breeding areas.
30
Leiden to the Bulb Fields Loop e# 0 5 km
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4 4 4 4Beach Ù#
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,# Gardens
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¸0Wassenaar A44 Centraal Leiden You’ll start to see tulips and the bulb fields. Stay
Station on the little road as it passes the churches and
you come to the busy N443.
¨¨Follow the west bank back down to ¨¨Cross the N443. Stay on the good bike paths
Amsterdam-Noord. From here it’s straight along Heereweg for almost 4km to the middle
cycling all the way to the ferry to Centraal of the village of Lisse. Here you can visit the
Station. Museum de Zwarte Tulp, which has lots of
interesting bulb stories.
Leiden to the Bulb Fields Loop ¨¨From Lisse, Keukenhof Gardens is just
1.25km west.
50km to 60km, four to seven hours ¨¨After you’ve visited the gardens, cross the
The best time to take this route is mid- road to visit stately castle Kasteel Keukenhof.
March to mid-May, when the tulips and Head west for 7.5km to the beach. Start on
daffodils are at their peak and the ribbons Delftweg amid bulb fields and stay on the bike
of bold colours are astounding. But it’s a lanes as the road crosses N206 (Oosterduinen).
lovely ride at any time and especially good The bike route now separates from the road.
in summer when you can stop at the beach Stay with the bike route through the sandy
for a break on the sand and a refreshing landscape.
dip in the sea. ¨¨The route curves south; at Langevelderslag,
¨¨Start in Leiden, where you can rent a bike at take the parallel path through the dunes. When
the train station or from one of the vendors in you cross national bike route LF1, you’re at the
town. beach.
¨¨Try some DIY routing to return. Once past the
¨¨Head north from the station following bike dunes, take little lanes through the bulb fields
lanes and paths along the east side of the train that take you due south towards Leiden. You’ll
tracks. Stay with the tracks as they curve north. be dazzled by the colours in spring. Eventually
After crossing several bridges (about 3km), you’ll run into a section of your initial route. Then
you’ll see a fair bit of water and the village of simply retrace your course back to the train
Warmond to your right. station.
¨¨Stay with the rail path (spoorpad) and cross
under the A44. You’ll be at the Rijksstraatweg.
Turn right (northeast) and follow the road for
4km as it changes names to Hoofdstraat and
reaches the pretty little village Sassenheim.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 31
Plan Your Trip
Travel with
Children
The Netherlands is one of Europe’s most kid-friendly countries.
The famous Dutch tolerance extends to children and locals are
exceptionally welcoming towards them (and their parents). Many
attractions are tailored to or specifically designed for younger
visitors, and there are enduring icons such as castles and windmills
that captivate all ages.
The Netherlands Best Regions for Kids
for Kids
Amsterdam
Children’s needs have been thought of at
every turn in the Netherlands. One of Europe’s most kid-friendly cities, with an
atmosphere that’s cheerfully accommodating
Accommodation to children. In fact, most areas – except the Red
Light District, of course – are fair game.
Very few hotels have a ‘no kids’ rule; those
that do are mostly in areas of Amsterdam Haarlem & North Holland
that you wouldn’t take kids anyway. Family
rooms sleeping four are common. Upscale Cute old towns, lots of cows, some fun museums
hotels often offer child-minding services. and the island of Texel, a huge sandy playground.
Eating Out Utrecht
Children are welcome in all but the most Cool canals to explore and castles to bike to.
formal restaurants. In fact, the trend to-
wards stylish bistro-style eateries with high Rotterdam & South Holland
ceilings and a slightly raucous atmosphere
are all the better for little ones. Everyone The neatest old Dutch cities, a fun amusement
is pretty tolerant of any antics children park in Den Haag, cool things to do in Rotterdam,
may get up to when dining out. You’ll see windmills and beaches in Zeeland.
Dutch families enjoying meals inside and
out at cafes, pubs and restaurants, as well Friesland
as sitting on benches sharing a quick repast
from a fish stall, frites (French fries) stand More cows and sandy islands.
or sandwich shop.
Northeast Netherlands
Kids’ menus are common and often
include deep-fried treats that always go Ancient stones and parks.
down well. You can also ask for high chairs
and even crayons in many restaurants. Central Netherlands
Fun little towns and parks.
Maastricht & Southeastern
Netherlands
The country’s best amusement park.
32
PL A N YO U R TRI P T rav el with C hildren Child-Friendly Facilities and offer lots of interesting views. The canal
tours in Den Bosch travel through underground
Facilities for changing nappies (diapers) are waterways.
limited to the big department stores, major ¨¨Artis Royal Zoo, Amsterdam The big cats,
museums and train stations, and you’ll pay shimmying fish and planetarium will keep young
to use them. Breastfeeding is generally OK eyes shining for hours; teenagers and adults
in public when done discreetly. will love the beautifully landscaped historical
On the Road grounds. Don’t miss the fascinating new
microbe museum, Micropia.
Most bike-rental shops have bicycle child ¨¨Ecomare, Texel A nature centre with all sorts
seats and kid-sized bikes for rent but few of animals from the islands, including injured
offer helmets (for any age); bike helmet seals recuperating, and lots of exhibits designed
use among the Dutch is very limited. You for kids.
might want to consider bringing your own.
Trains have ‘silent’ cars where people ¨¨Kinderdijk Nineteen windmills in a pretty
can escape noise and everyone (youngsters setting near Rotterdam.
included) is expected to be quiet.
¨¨Zaanse Schans At these windmills north of
Haarlem you can go inside to see all the wild
Bargain-Hunting gears, pulleys and more.
Family tickets for attractions are common Sand & Surf
and can yield huge savings. Most museums
have half-price entry for children and many ¨¨Beaches Texel and the Frisian Islands have
major museums offer free admission to kids. excellent beaches for kids. Much of the west
coast is one long beach; Scheveningen near Den
Haag is well-suited for families.
Children’s Highlights ¨¨Surfing Learn to surf on Texel, which has
many other activities – such as horse rides –
Outdoor Fun aimed at kids.
¨¨Windsurfing Amsterdam’s newest
Green spaces, parks, windmills and canals neighbourhood, IJburg, offers great
galore add up to plenty of fresh-air fun windsurfing, with rentals available from
with the little (and not so little) ones. Dur- Surfcenter IJburg (www.surfcenterijburg.
ing winter kids will love the skating rinks nl; Berthaanstrakade; windsurfer/wetsuit rental
and outdoor merriment at the carnivals per hr €17/5; h3-9pm Wed & Fri, 11am-6.30pm
that spring up in many Dutch cities and Sat & Sun Apr-Oct; j26 IJburg).
towns. ¨¨Mudflats North of Groningen, you can
¨¨Vondelpark, Amsterdam This vast play spend a day playing out on the mud. Wadlopen
space, with leafy picnic spots and duck ponds, (mudflat-walking) lets you head out to sea when
has cool space-age slides at its western end and the vast tidal areas are clear of water at low
a great playground in the centre. tide. It’s hours of muddy enjoyment and you’re
expected to get dirty.
¨¨Westerpark, Amsterdam Kids can splash
about in the summer paddling pool.
¨¨Amsterdamse Bos Tykes can feed goats and Kid Cuisine
climb trees in the woods.
¨¨Apenheul, Apeldoorn A habitat for apes Pancakes, frites, cheese, ice cream – even
and monkeys, where children get a chance to adults love fun Dutch food. Every city
observe and even play with the primates. and town has at least one weekly outdoor
¨¨Keukenhof Gardens, Lisse The millions of market where there are often stalls sell-
flowers might delight kids for a while but they’ll ing all sorts of tasty items; don’t miss the
really love the huge playground. unique holiday treats such as poffertjes
¨¨Canal Bike, Amsterdam Take a unique pedal- (tiny Dutch pancakes), that are served up
powered ride through Amsterdam’s beautiful in winter.
canals. ¨¨Albert Cuypmarkt, Amsterdam For
¨¨Canals, Den Bosch Most canal towns have stroopwafels (caramel-syrup-filled waffles), fruit
canal boat tours which last a not-too-long hour smoothies, chocolate, sweets and fresh fruit.
33
A GREAT TRAIN FARE ¨¨Maritiem Museum, Rotterdam Ship models PL A N YO U R TRI P T rav el with C hildren
any youngster would love to take into the
It may be the best deal in the Neth- bathtub.
erlands: children aged four to 11 can ¨¨Miffy Museum, Utrecht Miffy is one of
travel with an adult on Dutch trains the most beloved cartoon characters in the
anywhere in the country for €2.50. Netherlands and you can see a lot of her and
Just buy a Railrunner ticket for each other characters at this museum aimed at
child (maximum three kids per adult). toddlers.
Children three years and younger get ¨¨Ameland Nature Centre, Nes The
an even better deal: they travel free. seaquarium here has more than 200 North Sea
species, including barracudas and manta rays,
¨¨Oudt Leyden, Leiden Some of the biggest, plus a viewing theatre.
best traditional Dutch pancakes around. ¨¨Model Train Museum, Sneek Woo-hoo! Trains
¨¨Villa Augustus Restaurant, Dordrecht roll over bridges and through mountain tunnels in
Delicious, healthy dishes made from ingredients a series of incredibly elaborate dioramas.
growing in the organic garden out front. ¨¨Nederlands Stripmuseum, Groningen
¨¨Vleminckx, Amsterdam This hole in the Besides the comic strips by leading Benelux
wall is an old frites standby; part of the fun is artists, there are films, figurines and more.
deciding between dozens of sauces. ¨¨Natuurmuseum Fryslân, Leeuwarden A
¨¨Reitz, Maastricht A favourite for frites. fish-eye stroll through a Friesland canal and a
¨¨De Haerlemsche Vlaamse, Haarlem Local simulated bird flight are among the highlights at
frites institution. this kid-friendly nature museum.
¨¨IJsboerderij Labora, Texel Working dairy ¨¨Nederlands Openluchtmuseum, Arnhem
farm where you can see the cows that help make Like a set from a period film, the village re-
your ice cream. creates the Netherlands’ past with plenty of
¨¨IJs van Co, Hoge Veluwe National Park hands-on activities.
Sure, the parents want to see the Van Goghs at
the Kröller-Müller Museum, but there is also a Amusement Parks
huge lure near the Hoenderloo entrance to the
national park – some of the best soft ice cream ¨¨Efteling, Kaatsheuvel This is the most popular
in the country. amusement park in the Netherlands and it seems
every Dutch person of any age has memories
Kid- & Teen-Friendly of the fun they’ve had here. Thrill rides, cartoon
Museums characters and more. It’s in the south near Tilburg.
¨¨Madurodam, Den Haag See the Netherlands
While dragging museum-resistant kids in miniature outdoors at Madurodam; it’s what a
through an exhibition of sombre Dutch kid would build with unlimited time and cash.
Masters’ paintings might give parents ¨¨Miniworld Rotterdam See the Netherlands
nightmares, there are plenty of museums in miniature indoors at Miniworld; a huge model
that are accessible, educational and fun. train layout duplicates much of the country.
¨¨NEMO, Amsterdam Tailor-made, kid-focused, ¨¨Waterland Neeltje Jans, Zeeland Amid the
hands-on science labs inside; a splashy water amazing and vast Delta Project, kid-friendly
feature and amazing views on the roof outside. exhibits here tell the story of how the Dutch have
¨¨Het Scheepvaartmuseum, Amsterdam battled the sea; there are also seals, a water
Climb aboard the full-scale, 17th-century replica park and rides.
ship and check out the cannons.
¨¨Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam Lest the kids be Junior Entertainment
left out of the masterpieces, children get their own
audio tour to explore the museum’s treasures. ¨¨Amsterdams Marionetten Theater Puts on
¨¨Maastricht Underground Explore captivating shows such as Mozart’s The Magic
2000-year-old tunnels and caves underground. Flute.
It’s spooky and very cool – literally. ¨¨Openluchttheater, Amsterdam A free
theatre in Vondelpark hosting performances
most Saturday afternoons in summer.
34 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Regions Haarlem
at a & North Holland
Glance
Historic Towns
#_ Nature
Activities
Amsterdam
Picturesque
Museums Towns & Villages
Canals Haarlem evokes the Middle
Entertainment Ages and the Golden Age
Magnificent Museums as you stroll its compact
Amsterdam’s world-class museums draw millions of centre, and you half expect
visitors each year. The art collections take pride of to see an old merchant’s
place – you can’t walk a kilometre without bumping ship sail into Hoorn’s har-
into a Van Gogh, Rembrandt or Mondrian masterpiece. bour. Smaller and cuter
Golden Age Canals still are places such as
The gabled houses along Amsterdam’s remarkably Edam and Marken, whose
preserved canals look much as they did during the 17th traditions let you observe
century, and boats travel the same waterways as they living history.
did 400 years ago.
Great Entertainment Birds & Seals
Amsterdam’s nightlife is legendary. Jazz venues abound The largest of the Wadden
and you could easily see a live act every night of the week. Islands, Texel is ringed by
The dance-music scene thrives, with big-name DJs spin- wide beaches and national-
ning at clubs around town. Amsterdam’s classical venues park-protected dunes.
put on a full slate of shows. Famously hedonistic diver- Birdlife abounds here; out
sions include the Red Light District’s carnival of vice. on the water you’ll find
p38 colonies of seals.
Adventurous
Pursuits
You can surf, hike, bike,
sail a boat and more in the
region’s waters. On land,
cycling across the dykes and
virescent countryside makes
for great days exploring.
p100
35
Utrecht Rotterdam Friesland PLAN YOUR TRIP Regions at a Glance
& South Holland (Fryslân)
Canals Renaissance Islands
Landmarks Tulips History
Day Trips Cycling Adventure
Split-Level Canals Rotterdam’s Frisian Islands
As Utrecht’s ultramodern Renaissance Off the north coast of the
new train station draws to Rotterdam’s urban renais- Netherlands, the Wadden
completion, the city is look- sance not only includes zee’s rich environment
ing better than ever. You striking new additions to has been recognised as a
can stroll along its unique its skyline but a surge of Unesco World Heritage site
two-level canals – up above street art, red-hot restau- since 2009. The Frisian
at street level or down at rant and bar openings, and Islands here are popular for
the water’s edge. inspired initiatives like holidays but even on days
inner-city canal surfing. when the ferries from the
Historic Icons mainland all arrive full,
Utrecht city’s soaring sur- Blooming Bulbs there are still endless ex-
viving church tower, the Bulb fields fan out around panses of empty beach.
Domtoren, has sweeping the beautiful city of Leiden
views from the top. The and burst into a spectacular History-Steeped
city’s fascinating museum display of colour in spring. Towns
includes a side trip to the Keukenhof Gardens puts on Harlingen is a fascinating
Unesco-listed Rietveld- dazzling annual displays; historic port town. Leeu-
Schröder House. Learn the little town of Lisse is warden has superb museums
about the adorable Dutch home to a tulip museum. covering the province’s
cartoon rabbit at the re- history and natural history,
vamped Miffy Museum, in Two-Wheeling while Hindeloopen is a gem
the artist’s former studio. Cycling is as good here as of an old fishing village.
anywhere in the country,
Beyond the whether you’re pedalling by Boats & Bikes
Namesake City Kinderdijk’s Unesco-l isted The Frisian Islands offer
Amersfoort was home to windmills, Den Haag’s endless opportunities for
Piet Mondrian, the famous stately palaces and nearby outdoor fun. You can island-
20th-century artist. You beach Scheveningen, Zee- hop by boat while exploring
can visit his home, along land’s sandy seashore or by bike, or rent a boat your-
with side trips to country the medieval buildings self to explore the waters.
castles and the bewitching gracing Delft’s canals.
town of Oudewater. p193
p145
p134
36
PLAN YOUR TRIP Regions at a Glance Northeast Central Maastricht &
Netherlands Netherlands Southeastern
Netherlands
History Alluring Towns History
Parks Canals Art
Nightlife History Cafés
Understanding Backstreet Roman Relics
the Past Explorations The land beneath Maas-
Some of the oldest finds One of the greatest tricht is a honeycomb of
in the Netherlands are in pleasures of the Central tunnels and underground
its far northeast corner: Netherlands is wander- forts dating back through
Hunebedden (old burial ing the backstreets of its centuries of wars and oc-
sites) date back 5000 years. towns and making your cupiers to Roman times.
The preserved fortress own discoveries. Old brick Above ground, almost every
town of Bourtange is a buildings unchanged since era since is represented
16th-century time capsule Deventer was a Hanseatic by a landmark or building
while Groningen still has trading city delight with in the city’s compact and
echoes of the Golden Age. carved stone details. Near- beautiful centre.
Much more recent and by Zwolle offers similar
far more terrible, Kamp rewards, as does compact Art, Observed
Westerbork was used by the little Kampen. Hieronymus Bosch was a
Nazis for deporting Jews sharp observer of human
and others. Land & Water frailties and his intricate
Water courses throughout paintings, which are re-
Green Lands the centre of the Nether- created in his namesake
Protected zones preserve lands. Near the canal-laced city Den Bosch, still ring
ancient landscapes that rural idyll of Giethoorn, true today. Maastricht is
are left to evolve naturally. you can follow canals and home to the world’s largest
Explore old farms, forests channels dug over the cen- annual sales fair of historic
and heaths on a welter of turies by peat harvesters art, and artistic treasures
biking and hiking trails. and farmers in fascinating fill its museums.
Weerribben-Wieden
Party Time National Park. Café Culture
The ancient university town Café culture is alive and
of Groningen has 20,000 WWII Reminders thriving in Maastricht,
students who ensure there’s In and around Nijmegen Den Bosch and Breda. Pull
never a dull moment on its and Arnhem, monuments up a chair and soak up the
streets or in its cafés (pubs), and museums recall the Dutch sense of gezelligheid
bars and pulsating live mu- fierce battles of WWII and (conviviality, cosiness).
sic venues. their horrific aftermath.
p236
p207 p219
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
On the
Road
Friesland Northeast
(Fryslân) Netherlands
p193 p207
Haarlem & Central
North Holland Netherlands
p100 p219
Amsterdam _#
p38
Rotterdam Utrecht
& South p134
Holland
p145
Maastricht &
Southeastern Netherlands
p236
#_
Amsterdam
% 020 / POP 805,155
Includes Why Go?
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Amsterdam works its fairy-tale magic in many ways: via the
Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 gabled Golden Age buildings, the glinting boat-filled canals,
Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 and especially the cosy, centuries-old brown cafés, where
Festivals & Events . . . . 67 candles burn low and beers froth high. Art admirers will be
Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 hard-pressed to ogle a more masterpiece-packed city, thanks
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 to rich collections at the Rijks, Van Gogh, Stedelijk and Her-
Drinking & Nightlife. . . 86 mitage museums. Music fans can tune into concert halls
Entertainment. . . . . . . . 91 booked solid with entertainment from all over the globe.
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . 93 And hedonists? Amsterdam’s risqué side beckons, from
the women in the Red Light District windows to cannabis-
Best Places to Eat selling coffeeshops.
¨¨Ron Gastrobar (p82) The city is remarkably intimate and accessible, its com-
¨¨Dikke Graaf (p82) pact core ripe for rambling. You never know what you’ll find
¨¨Foodhallen (p83) among the atmospheric lanes: a hidden garden, an antique-
¨¨De Kas (p86) book market, a 17th-century distillery – always worlds-within-
¨¨Ciel Bleu (p84) worlds, where nothing ever seems the same twice.
Best Places When to Go
to Stay
¨¨Summer is the peak time, when café terraces boom and
¨¨Hoxton Amsterdam (p72) festivals rock almost every weekend. Locals go on holiday
¨¨Hotel Not Hotel (p75) in late July and August, so you might find your favourite
¨¨B&B Le Maroxidien (p76) restaurant closed.
¨¨Sir Albert Hotel (p75)
¨¨Cocomama (p73) ¨¨Visitor numbers start to taper in October, and by
November off-peak rates begin in earnest. Ice skating,
fireplace-warmed cafés and queue-free museums ease the
chilly days from December through February.
¨¨Crowds start coming back around Easter, and amass in
full force around King’s Day (27 April), Remembrance Day
(4 May) and Liberation Day (5 May).
1 Sights 39
History Amsterdam is compact and easy to roam on A ms te rda m S iIgGhH tTsS
foot. Hop on the occasional tram if you need
Around 1200, a fishing community known as a rest. The major sights are clustered in the
Aemstelredamme – ‘the dam across the Am- city centre or within a few kilometres, such
stel River’ – emerged at what is now called as the Old South’s art museums (3km from
the Dam. The town soon grew into a centre Centraal Station).
for sea trade. Unfettered by high taxes and
medieval feudal structures, a society of in- For more in-depth explorations, pick up
dividualism and capitalism took root. The Lonely Planet’s Amsterdam city guide or
modern idea of Amsterdam – free, open, Pocket Amsterdam guide.
progressive – was born.
1 Medieval Centre
The city flourished during the 17th-century
Golden Age. Merchants and artisans flocked Amsterdam’s heart beats in its tourist-
in, Rembrandt painted, and city planners packed medieval core. The Royal Palace
built the canals. By the next century though, rises up here, but the main thing to do is
international wars and trade competition wander the twisting lanes past 17th-century
stagnated the local economy. pubs, hidden gardens and eye-popping spe-
ciality shops. Centraal Station is the main
In 1806 Napoleon’s brother Louis became landmark. Damrak, the main thoroughfare,
king of Holland. He eventually moved into slices south from the station to the Dam
the city hall on the Dam and transformed (Amsterdam’s central square). The road then
it into the Royal Palace. Infrastructure pro- becomes Rokin (in the final stages of metro
jects such as Centraal Station, the Rijks construction) as it continues south.
museum and harbour expansion followed
later in the 19th century. oRoyal Palace PALACE
WWI and the Great Depression took their (Koninklijk Paleis; Map p44; %620 40 60; www.
toll in the form of food shortages and in- paleisamsterdam.nl; Dam; adult/child €10/free;
creasing poverty. WWII brought hardship, h10am-5pm; j4/9/16/24 Dam) Opened as
hunger and devastation to the local Jewish a town hall in 1655, this building became
community during the Nazi occupation. a palace in the 19th century. The interiors
Only one in every 16 of Amsterdam’s 90,000 gleam, especially the marble work – at its
Jews survived the war. best in a floor inlaid with maps of the world
in the great burgerzaal (citizens’ hall),
During the 1960s, Amsterdam became which occupies the heart of the building.
Europe’s ‘Magic Centre’: hippies smoked Pick up a free audio tour at the desk after
dope on the Dam and camped in Vondel- you enter; it will explain everything you see
park. In 1972 the first coffeeshop opened, in vivid detail. King Willem-Alexander uses
and in 1976 marijuana was decriminalised the palace only for ceremonies; check the
to free up police resources for combating website for periodic closures.
hard drugs.
oAmsterdam Museum MUSEUM
By the 1990s the city’s economy had shift-
ed to white-collar jobs and a thriving service (Map p44; %523 18 22; www.amsterdammuseum.
industry, while gentrification increased. The nl; Kalverstraat 92; adult/child €12/6; h10am-
ethnic make-up had changed too, with non- 5pm; j1/2/5 Spui) Amsterdam’s history mu-
Dutch nationalities (particularly Moroccans, seum is a spiffy place to learn about what
Surinamese and Turks) comprising more makes the city tick. Start with the multi-
than 45% of the population. media DNA exhibit, which breaks down
Amsterdam’s 1000-year history into seven
Two high-profile murders and protests whiz-bang time periods. Afterward, plunge
over immigration marked the first years of into the maze-like lower floors to see troves
the 21st century. Recently Amsterdammers of religious artefacts, porcelains and paint-
have turned their attention to a new metro ings. Bonus points for finding Rembrandt’s
line, massive artificial suburban islands and macabre Anatomy Lesson of Dr Deijman.
other grand urban projects. There are around The museum is a good choice during soggy
200 start-up companies within a 6.5km radi- weather, as there’s rarely a queue.
us of the centre, working on projects such as
building a canal house and canal bridge by
3D printer, honing bitcoin technology, and
offering networks where residents can trade
surplus green energy with each other.
40 Nieuwe Hernweg
#¡
Amsterdam
Highlights Isolatorweg
1 Plunging into Spaarndammerdijk
the Rijksmuseum
(p59), housing a Basosweg Transformatorweg 11 Tas manstr
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genius at the Van Sloterdijkermeer See Jordaan &
Gogh Museum (p59). Canal Ring Map (p50)
4 Visiting the BOS EN
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inner sanctum
at Museum het #¡De Vlugtlaan STAATSLIEDEN - 000000000000 Jordaan0000000000
Rembrandthuis FREDERIK Nassaukade #5
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(p43), a contradiction Einstelnweg
of charming cafés and Rembrandtpark Rijksmuseum #1
near-naked women in #8 #3
windows. £#Lelylaan AmstelveensewegOvertoom SVeoenSdouetlhpearnrkCan0000aVMl0000aun0000sGeougmh
8 Kicking back amid Metro #¡ Vondelpark
the ponds, lawns,
thickets and paths of OVERTOOMSE Ring Map (p54)
Vondelpark (p60). VELD
9 Sipping sensational Amstel Kanaal
microbrews under an NIEUW
18th-century windmill ¡# Noorder
at Brouwerij ’t IJ Heemstedestraat Boerenwetering
(p91). Haarlemmermeer £#
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A ms te rda m S iIgGhH tTsS42
AMSTERDAM IN…
Two Days
On day one, ogle at the masterpieces in the Van Gogh Museum and Rijksmuseum,
side by side in the Old South. Spend the afternoon in the city centre getting a dose of Dutch
history at the Dam, Amsterdam Museum, Begijnhof or Royal Palace. At night venture
into the eye-popping Red Light District, then sip in a brown café such as In ’t Aepjen.
Start the next day browsing the Albert Cuypmarkt, Amsterdam’s largest street
bazaar. Head to the Southern Canal Ring and peek in opulent canal houses such as
the Museum Van Loon and the Museum Willet-Holthuysen before taking a
canal boat tour. At night party at hyperactive, neon-lit Leidseplein. Paradiso and
Melkweg host the coolest agendas.
Four Days
On day three head to the Western Canal Ring’s Negen Straatjes (Nine Streets), a tic-tac-
toe board of oddball speciality shops. The haunting Anne Frank Huis is nearby, and is a
must. Spend the evening in the Jordaan for a gezellig (cosy) dinner and canal-side drinks.
Begin the following day at Museum het Rembrandthuis, then mosey over to the
Plantage for the Hortus Botanicus, Royal Artis Zoo and organic brewery Brouwerij
’t IJ, at the foot of a windmill.
Civic Guard Gallery GALLERY Nationaal Monument MONUMENT
(Map p44; Kalverstraat 92; h10am-5pm; j1/2/5 (Map p44; Dam; j4/9/16/24 Dam) The obelisk
Spui) F This cool gallery is part of the on the Dam’s east side was built in 1956
Amsterdam Museum – consider it the free to commemorate WWII’s fallen. Fronted
‘teaser’ – and fills an alleyway next to the by two lions, its pedestal has a number of
museum’s entrance. It displays grand posed- symbolic statues: four males (war), a woman
group portraits, from medieval guards with child (peace) and men with dogs (re-
painted during the Dutch Golden Age (à la sistance). The 12 urns at the rear hold earth
Rembrandt’s The Night Watch) to Modern from war cemeteries of the 11 provinces and
Civic Guards, a rendering of Anne Frank, the Dutch East Indies. The war dead are still
Alfred Heineken and a joint-smoking per- honoured here at a ceremony every 4 May.
sonification of Amsterdam.
oNieuwe Kerk CHURCH
oBegijnhof
SQUARE (New Church; Map p44; %638 69 09; www.nieuwe
(Map p44; %622 19 18; www.begijnhofamster- kerk.nl; Dam; admission €8-16; h10am-5pm;
dam.nl; off Gedempte Begijnensloot; h9am-5pm; j1/2/4/5/9/16/24 Dam) This 15th-century,
j1/2/5 Spui) F This enclosed former late-G othic basilica – a historic stage for
convent dates from the early 14th century. Dutch coronations – is only ‘new’ in relation
It’s a surreal oasis of peace, with tiny houses to the Oude (Old) Kerk. A few monumental
and postage-stamp gardens around a well- items dominate the otherwise spartan inte-
kept courtyard. The Beguines were a Catho- rior – a magnificent carved oak chancel, a
lic order of unmarried or widowed women bronze choir screen, a massive organ and
who cared for the elderly and lived a reli- enormous stained-glass windows. The build-
gious life without taking monastic vows. The ing is now used for exhibitions and organ
last true Beguine died in 1971. concerts. Opening times and admission fees
can vary, depending on what’s going on.
Dam SQUARE
(Map p44; j4/9/16/24 Dam) This square is the Spui SQUARE
very spot where Amsterdam was founded (Map p44; j1/2/5 Spui) Inviting cafés and
around 1270. Today pigeons, tourists, busk- brainy bookstores ring the Spui, a favoured
ers and the occasional Ferris-wheel-boasting haunt of academics, students and journal-
fair take over the grounds. It’s still a national ists. On Fridays a book market takes over
gathering spot, and if there’s a major speech the square; on Sundays it’s an art market.
or demonstration it’s held here. And just so you know, it’s pronounced ‘spow’
(rhymes with ‘now’).
43
Sexmuseum Amsterdam MUSEUM the past, present and future. Within two dec-
ades trading had outgrown the building and
(Mapp44; www.sexmuseumamsterdam.nl; Damrak18; moved elsewhere. The building now hosts
admission €4; h9.30am-11.30pm; j1/2/5/13/17 conferences and art exhibitions.
Centraal Station) The Sexmuseum is good for
a giggle. You’ll find replicas of pornographic
Pompeian plates, erotic 14th-century Vien-
nese bronzes, some of the world’s earliest 1 Red Light District
nude photographs, an automated farting A ms te rda m S iIgGhH tTsS
flasher in a trench coat, and a music box The city’s famous Red Light District retains
that plays ‘Edelweiss’ and purports to show the power to make your jaw go limp, even
a couple in flagrante delicto. It’s sillier and if near-naked prostitutes beckoning passers-
more fun than other erotic museums in the by from backlit windows is the oldest Am-
Red Light District. Minimum age for entry sterdam cliché. But far from being a no-go
is 16. area, De Wallen (as the district is known lo-
cally) has some beautiful historic cafés and
Madame Tussauds Amsterdam MUSEUM buildings. Zeedijk and Warmoesstraat are
(Map p44; www.madametussauds.nl; Dam 20; the main commercial thoroughfares chock-
adult/child €22.50/18.50; h9am-9pm Jul & a-block with restaurants and shops (many
Aug, 10am-7pm Sep-Jun; c; j4/9/16/24 Dam) with a hedonistic bent). For a seamier scene,
Sure, Madame Tussauds wax museum is walk along neon-lit Oudezijds Achterburg
overpriced and cheesy, but its focus on lo- wal, past its fetish shops, sex shows and pot
cal culture makes it fun: ‘meet’ the Dutch museums. The district is tightly regulated
royals, politicians, painters and pop stars, and safe for strolling on the main streets.
along with global celebs (Bieber!). Kids love
it. Buying tickets online will save you a few oOude Kerk CHURCH
euros and get you into the fast-track queue.
Going after 3pm also nets discounts. (Old Church; Map p44; %625 82 84; www.oudekerk.
nl; Oudekerksplein; adult/child €7.50/free; h10am-
6pm Mon-Sat, 1-5:30pm Sun; j4/9/16/24
Dam) This is Amsterdam’s oldest surviving
Centraal Station LANDMARK
(Map p44; Stationsplein; j4/9/16/24 Centraal Sta-
tion) Beyond being a transport hub, Centraal
Station is a sight in itself. The turreted mar- RED LIGHT DISTRICT FAQ
vel dates from 1889. One of the architects, PJ
Cuypers, also designed the Rijksmuseum, and ¨¨What year was prostitution legalised
you can see the similarities in the faux-Gothic in the Netherlands? 1810
towers, the fine red brick and the abundant
reliefs (for sailing, trade and industry). ¨¨When were brothels legalised? 2000
Schreierstoren HISTORIC BUILDING ¨¨What percentage of working prostitutes
were born in the Netherlands? 5%
(Map p44; www.schreierstoren.nl; Prins Hendrik-
kade 94-95; j4/9/16/24 Centraal Station) Built ¨¨What is the average rent per window?
around 1480 as part of the city’s defences, €75 to €150 per eight-hour shift (paid
this tower is where Henry Hudson set sail by prostitute), depending on location.
for the New World in 1609; a plaque outside
marks the spot. It’s called the ‘wailing tower’ ¨¨How much money is generated by the
in lore – where women waved farewell to industry? About €650 million annually,
sailors’ ships – but the name actually comes according to the Central Bureau of
from the word ‘sharp’ (for how the corner Statistics.
jutted into the bay).
¨¨Do prostitutes pay taxes? Yes.
Beurs van Berlage HISTORIC BUILDING
¨¨What happens if a patron gets violent?
(Map p44; %530 41 41; www.beursvanberlage. Prostitutes’ quarters are equipped with
nl; Damrak 243; j1/2/5/13/17 Centraal Station) a button that, when pressed, activates
Master architect and ardent socialist HP a light outside. The police or other
Berlage (1856–1934) built Amsterdam’s protectors show up in a hurry.
financial exchange in 1903. He filled the
temple of capitalism with decorations that ¨¨Why red light? Because it’s flattering.
venerate labour – look inside the café to see Especially when used in combination
tile murals of the well-muscled proletariat of with black light, it makes teeth sparkle.
Even as early as the 1300s, women
carrying red lanterns met sailors near
the port.
44
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Herenmarkt North Sea Jazz Club(1.7km) Worst Wijncafe (1.6km); A'DAM Tower (550m); Het IJ
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A ms te rda m S i g h ts 45
46
A ms te rda m S iIgGhH tTsS Amsterdam Centre 43 Misc EatDrinkSleep................................. F6
St Christopher's at the Winston.. (see 77)
æ Top Sights
1 Amsterdam Museum ............................. C7 44 Stayokay Amsterdam Stadsdoelen......E8
2 Begijnhof.................................................. B8 ú Eating
3 Museum het Rembrandthuis ................ G8
4 Museum Ons' Lieve Heer op Solder......F4 45 Anna .......................................................... E5
5 Nieuwe Kerk ............................................ C5 46 Blauw aan de Wal ....................................E6
6 Oude Kerk .................................................E5 47 De Belhamel............................................. C1
7 Royal Palace ............................................ C5 48 Frenzi ........................................................ F8
49 Gartine ......................................................C8
æ Sights 50 Haesje Claes.............................................B7
8 Beurs van Berlage....................................E4 51 Hofje van Wijs .......................................... F4
9 Cannabis College.....................................E6 52 Latei........................................................... F5
10 Centraal Station.......................................F2 53 Nam Kee ................................................... F5
11 Civic Guard Gallery................................. C7 54 Nam Kee ................................................... F5
12 Dam .......................................................... C5 55 Rob Wigboldus Vishandel ......................D5
13 Guan Yin Shrine .......................................F5 56 Singel 404 ................................................A8
14 Hash, Marijuana & Hemp Museum .......E6 57 ʼSkek.......................................................... F3
15 Hemp Gallery............................................E6 58 Thais Snackbar Bird................................F4
16 Madame Tussauds Amsterdam........... C6 59 Tokoman................................................... F5
17 Multatuli Museum................................... C3 60 Van den Berg's Broodjesbar..................D5
18 Nationaal Monument ............................. D6 û Drinking & Nightlife
19 Poezenboot ............................................. C2 61 Abraxas.....................................................C6
62 Bluebird .................................................... F7
20 Prostitution Information Centre............E4 63 Brouwerij De Prael .................................. F4
21 Red Light Secrets Museum of 64 Café de Barderij....................................... F4
65 Café de Doelen.........................................E8
Prostitution............................................F5 66 Café de Dokter.........................................C8
22 Schreierstoren ........................................ G3 67 Café Tabac ............................................... B1
23 Sexmuseum Amsterdam........................E3 68 De Sluyswacht .........................................G7
24 Spui........................................................... B8 69 Getto .........................................................E4
25 W139......................................................... D5 70 Greenhouse..............................................E6
26 Waag..........................................................F6 71 Hoppe........................................................B8
27 Zuiderkerk ................................................F7 72 In de Olofspoort....................................... F3
73 In ʼt Aepjen ............................................... F3
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 74 't Arendsnest............................................B3
28 Black Bikes .............................................. C4 75 't Mandje................................................... F4
29 Drugs Tour................................................E5 76 Warehouse Amsterdam ......................... E5
30 MacBike ................................................... G2 77 Winston Kingdom.................................... E5
31 Mee in Mokum......................................... C7 78 Wynand Fockink ......................................D6
Prostitution Information ý Entertainment
Centre Red Light District Tour. (see 20) 79 Amsterdams Marionetten Theater.......G5
32 Randy Roy's Redlight Tours...................E3
33 Reypenaer Cheese Tasting ................... B4
Sandeman's New Amsterdam
Tours ............................................ (see 18)
34 Yellow Bike............................................... D4
ÿ Sleeping þ Shopping
35 art'otel amsterdam..................................E2 80 American Book Center...........................B8
36 Christian Youth Hostel 'The Shelter 81 Condomerie Het Gulden Vlies ...............D5
City'.........................................................F6 82 Droog ........................................................E8
37 Frederic Rentabike .................................. B1 83 Joe's Vliegerwinkel.................................. F7
38 Hotel Brouwer ......................................... C3 84 Juggle........................................................E8
39 Hotel Luxer ...............................................F4 85 Kokopelli................................................... F3
40 Hotel The Exchange ............................... D4 86 Oudemanhuis Book Market...................D8
41 Hoxton Amsterdam................................ A6 87 PGC Hajenius ...........................................C8
42 Maes B&B ................................................ B3 88 Waterlooplein Flea Market.....................G8
building (from 1306). It’s also an intriguing choir stalls, and famous Amsterdammers’
moral contradiction: a church surrounded tombstones in the floor (including Rem-
by active Red Light District windows. In- brandt’s wife, Saskia van Uylenburgh). The
side, check out the stunning Müller organ, church often holds art exhibitions. You can
the naughty 15th-century carvings on the also climb the tower on a guided tour.
47
RED LIGHT PHOTO of mercy. Make a donation, light an incense
ETIQUETTE stick and ponder the thousand eyes and
hands of the Bodhisattva statue.
Your first instinct might be to take a
photo of the barely clad women winking Hash, Marijuana & Hemp Museum MUSEUM A ms te rda m S iIgGhH tTsS
from the crimson-lit windows, but don’t (Map p44; %624 89 26; www.hashmuseum.com;
do it – out of simple respect, and to OudezijdsAchterburgwal 148; admission €9; h10am-
avoid having your camera tossed in a 10pm; j4/9/16/24 Dam) Simple exhibits cover
canal by the ladies’ enforcers. dope botany and the relationship between
cannabis and religion. Highlights include an
oMuseum Ons’ impressive pipe collection, an interactive va-
poriser exhibit and a kiosk where you can cre-
Lieve Heer op Solder MUSEUM ate an e-postcard of yourself in a marijuana
field. Admission also includes the Hemp
(Map p44; %624 66 04; www.opsolder.nl; Oudezijds Gallery (Map p44; Oudezijds Achterburgwal 130),
Voorburgwal 40; adult/child €9/4.50; h10am-5pm filled with hemp art and historical items, in
Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun; j4/9/16/24 Centraal Station) a separate building a few doors north.
What looks like an ordinary canal house
turns out to have an entire Catholic church
stashed inside. Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder Red Light Secrets Museum of
(Our Dear Lord in the Attic) was built in Prostitution MUSEUM
the mid-1600s in defiance of the Calvinists. (Map p44; %662 53 00; www.redlightsecrets.
com; Oudezijds Achterburgwal 60h; admission €10;
Inside you’ll see labyrinthine staircases, rich h11am-midnight; j4/9/16/24 Dam) The new
artworks, period decor and the soaring,
two-storey church itself. The museum com- prostitution museum is a bit hokey, the kind
of place where a tout stands outside and
pleted a multi-year restoration project in offers discounts if you visit right now. But
late 2015, so the interior now sparkles.
the museum also fills a gap by showing vis-
itors what a Red Light room looks like and
Prostitution Information Centre LIBRARY answering basic questions about the indus-
(PIC; Map p44; %420 73 28; www.pic-amsterdam. try. There are photo opportunities aplenty
com; Enge Kerksteeg 3; h10am-5pmWed-Fri,to 7pm (ahem, dominatrix room). The venue takes
Sat; j4/9/16/24 Dam) Established by a former less than an hour to tour.
prostitute, the PIC provides frank information
about the industry to sex workers, their cus- W139 GALLERY
tomers and curious tourists. The small on-site
shop sells enlightening reading material and (Map p44; www.w139.nl; Warmoesstraat 139;
souvenirs, and the centre runs an excellent hnoon-6pm; j4/9/16/24 Dam) F Duck
hour-long walking tour (5pm Saturday, €15 into this contemporary arts centre and pon-
per person, no reservations needed), which der the multimedia exhibits, which often
takes you around the neighbourhood and into have an edgy political angle. Check the web-
a prostitute’s working room. site for frequent artists talks.
Cannabis College CULTURAL CENTRE PUT OUT THE RED LIGHT?
(Map p44; %423 44 20; www.cannabiscollege. Amsterdam is famously open-minded
com; Oudezijds Achterburgwal 124; h11am-7pm; when it comes to cannabis use and pros-
j4/9/16/24 Dam) This nonprofit centre titution. But since 2008 a bit of a tussle
offers visitors tips and tricks for having a has ensued as the city embarks on a plan
positive smoking experience, as well as pro- to reduce the number of coffeeshops
vides the low-down on local cannabis laws. and Red Light District windows. The city
Browse displays, try out a vaporiser (€3; says organised crime has entered the
bring your own smoking material) or view scene and must be stopped; opponents
marijuana plants growing sky-high in the say the city simply doesn’t like its repu-
basement garden (€3; photos permitted). tation for sin. The upshot: many spaces
in the Red Light area are being converted
Guan Yin Shrine BUDDHIST TEMPLE to galleries, cafes and other more whole-
some businesses. The industry certainly
(Fo Guang Shan He Hua Temple; Map p44; www.ibps. won’t disappear anytime soon, but it is
nl; Zeedijk 106-118; hnoon-5pm Tue-Sat, 10am-5pm shrinking (by roughly 20%).
Sun; j4/9/16/24 Dam) Europe’s first Chinese
Imperial–style Buddhist temple (2000) is
dedicated to Guan Yin, the Buddhist goddess
48
1 Nieuwmarkt the treasure chambers to see 16th-century
manuscripts and gold-threaded tapestries.
Nieuwmarkt (New Market) is a district as
historic as anything you’ll find in Amster- Admission tickets also provide entry to
dam. Rembrandt painted canalscapes here, the Joods Historisch Museum.
and Jewish merchants generated a fair share
of the city’s wealth with diamonds and other Waag HISTORIC BUILDING
ventures. The area’s focal point is Nieuw-
markt, just east of the Red Light District. (Map p44; www.indewaag.nl; Nieuwmarkt 4; mNieuw
This bright, relaxed place – ringed with ca- markt) The multi-turreted Waag dates from
A ms te rda m S iIgGhH tTsS fes, shops and restaurants – is arguably the 1488, when it was part of the city’s fortifica-
grandest spot in town after the Dam. tions. From the 17th century onward it was
Amsterdam’s main weigh house, and later a
oMuseum het Rembrandthuis MUSEUM spot for public executions. A bar-restaurant
(open 9am-1am) occupies it today. Out the
(Rembrandt House Museum; Map p44; %520 04 front, Nieuwmarkt square hosts a variety of
00; www.rembrandthuis.nl; Jodenbreestraat 4; events, including a Saturday farmers market
and a Sunday antiques market.
adult/child €12.50/4; h10am-6pm; j9/14 Water- Gassan Diamonds FACTORY
looplein) You almost expect to find the master
himself at the Museum het Rembrandthuis, (Map p62; www.gassan.com; Nieuwe Uilenburger
where Rembrandt van Rijn ran the Neth- straat 173-175; h9am-5pm; j9/14 Waterlooplein)
erlands’ largest painting studio, only to F At this vast workshop, you’ll get a
lose the lot when profligacy set in, enemies quick primer in assessing the gems for qual-
swooped and bankruptcy came a-knocking. ity, and see diamond cutters and polishers
The museum has scores of etchings and in action. The one-hour tour is the best of its
sketches. Ask for the free audio guide at the kind in town.
entrance. You can buy advance tickets on- The factory sits on Uilenburg, one of the
line, though it’s not as vital here as at some rectangular islands reclaimed in the 1580s
of the other big museums. during a sudden influx of Sephardic Jews
from Spain and Portugal. In the 1880s Gas-
san became the first diamond factory to use
oJoods Historisch Museum MUSEUM steam power.
(Jewish Historical Museum; Map p62; %531 03
80; www.jhm.nl; Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1; adult/child
€15/7.50; h11am-5pm; j9/14 Mr Visserplein) Zuiderkerk CHURCH
The Joods Historisch Museum is a beauti-
fully restored complex of four Ashkenazic (Map p44; zuiderkerkamsterdam.nl; Zuiderkerk-
synagogues from the 17th and 18th centu- hof 72; mNieuwmarkt) Famed Dutch Renais-
ries. Displays show the rise of Jewish enter- sance architect Hendrick de Keyser built
prise and its role in the Dutch economy, and the ‘Southern Church’ in 1611. This was the
the history of Jews in the Netherlands. The first custom-built Protestant church in Am-
English-language audio tour is excellent (no sterdam – still Catholic in design but with
extra charge). no choir. The final church service was held
here in 1929. During the ‘Hunger Winter’ of
Tickets also include admission to the WWII it served as a morgue.
Portuguese-I sraelite Synagogue. The interior is now used for private
events, but you can tour the tower once it
reopens after renovations in 2017 for a sky-
Portuguese-Israelite high city view.
Synagogue SYNAGOGUE
(Map p62; www.portugesesynagoge.nl; Mr Visser- Scheepvaarthuis ARCHITECTURE
plein 3; adult/child €15/7.50; h10am-5pm Sun-
Thu, to 4pm Fri, closed Sat Mar-Oct, reduced hours (Shipping House; Map p62; Prins Hendrikkade 108;
j4/9/16/24 Centraal Station) Now the luxury
Nov-Feb; j9/14 Mr Visserplein) This was the Grand Hotel Amrath, the grand 1916-built
largest synagogue in Europe when it was
completed in 1675, and it’s still in use today. Scheepvaarthuis was the first true example of
Amsterdam School architecture. The exterior
The interior features massive pillars and resembles a ship’s bow and is encrusted in
some two-dozen brass candelabra. The large
library belonging to the Ets Haim seminary elaborate nautical detailing; look for figures
of Neptune, his wife and four females that
is one of the oldest and most important Jew- represent the compass points. Step inside to
ish book collections in Europe. Outside (near
the entrance) take the stairs underground to admire stained glass, gorgeous light fixtures
and the art-deco-ish central stairwell.
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