Lonely planet the netherlands by Lonely Planet, Catherine Le Nevez, Daniel C Schechter

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 299

Transport

GETTING THERE meal. And with its flat terrain, major airlines. The airport is like
& AWAY getting around by bicycle is a small city and is well linked to
a breeze. the rest of the country by train,
The Netherlands is an easy including the high-speed line
place to reach. Amsterdam’s Flights, car rental and south to Rotterdam as well Ant-
Schiphol International Air- tours can be booked online at werp and Brussels (Belgium) and
port has copious air links lonelyplanet.com/bookings Paris (France). It runs efficiently
worldwide, including many for its size, with a huge shopping
on low-cost European air- Entering the mall, Schiphol Plaza, filled with
lines. Rotterdam The Hague Country travellers’ amenities. You can
Airport serves more than 40 store luggage for up to a week.
European destinations; Eind­ Passport There are also airport hotels.
hoven Airport is a budget-­
airline hub. In principle, all passengers Rotterdam The Hague Airport
with passports are allowed (RTM; www.rotterdamthe-
High-speed trains are entry to the Netherlands. hagueairport.nl), serving more
especially good from France, There are relatively few na- than 40 European destinations,
Belgium and Germany, and, tionalities that need visas. is less than 6km northwest of
from late 2016, London via Rotterdam. Bus 33 makes the
the Eurostar. Other land Air 20-minute run from the airport
options are user friendly and to Rotterdam Centraal Station
the border crossings are Airports every 15 minutes throughout
nearly invisible thanks to the the day. A taxi takes 10 minutes
EU. There are also ferry links Schiphol International Airport to get to the centre and costs
with the UK. (AMS; www.schiphol.nl), conven- around €25.
iently located near both Am- Eindhoven Airport (EIN; www.
What’s more, once you sterdam and Rotterdam, is the eindhovenairport.com) is a
get to the Netherlands the Netherlands’ main international budget-airline hub. It’s 6km
transport remains hassle airport and the fourth busiest west of the centre of Eindhoven.
free. Most journeys by rail, in Europe. It’s the hub of Dutch Bus 401 runs every 10 minutes
car or bus are so short that passenger carrier KLM and is between the airport and the train
you can reach most regional serviced by most of the world’s station (€3.50, 25 minutes).
destinations before your next

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause
of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which
might use less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater
distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also
contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’
that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for
those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with con-
tributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet
offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.

Tr a nsp o rt L and300 UK international services are
Most cross-Channel ferries operated by NS International
Land don’t charge foot passen- (www.nsinternational.nl).
gers extra to take a bicycle. In addition, Thalys (www.
Bicycle You can also bring your thalys.com) fast trains serve
two-wheeler on the connect- Brussels (where you can
¨¨Bringing your own bike into ing trains, where it travels for connect to the Eurostar) and
the Netherlands will cause no free if it fits into a bike bag as Paris. From December 2016,
problems. Ask your carrier hand luggage. direct Eurostar services will
to see what you need to do to link Amsterdam, Schiphol
check it on a plane; by train Bus International Airport and
you usually have to remove Rotterdam with London.
the front wheel and put it in a Eurolines (www.eurolines.com)
carrier bag. A consortium of coach operators In peak periods it’s wise
¨¨Long-distance bicycle that runs cheap international to reserve seats in advance.
paths are called landelijke bus services to/from the Neth- Buy tickets online at SNCB
fietsroutes (LF) and retain erlands. Coaches have on-board Europe (www.b-europe.com).
that label in northern toilets and reclining seats. Some
Belgium. services have on-board wi-fi. Major Dutch train stations
Busabout (www.busabout.com) have international ticket
BELGIUM Operates buses that complete offices; you can also buy tick-
Long-distance cyclists can set circuits around Europe, ets for local trains to Belgium
choose from a variety of stopping at major cities. The and Germany at the normal
safe, easy, specially desig- service runs only from May to ticket counters.
nated routes to get to the October and is aimed at younger
Netherlands from Belgium travellers. Pricing is complex. The excellent website Seat
and Germany. The LF2 route 61 (www.seat61.com) has
runs 350km from Brussels Car & Motorcycle comprehensive information
via Antwerp, Dordrecht and about train travel.
Rotterdam to Amsterdam. ¨¨Drivers need vehicle
registration papers, third- BELGIUM
GERMANY party insurance and their Full fares are high (for exam-
Route LF4 stretches 300km domestic licence. Get a ple Amsterdam to Brussels
from Enschede near the Ger- Green Card from your insurer €80), but advance fares are
man border to Den Haag. to show you have coverage. likely to be cheap (€29).
¨¨ANWB (www.anwb.nl)
The fast German ICE trains provides information, maps, Thalys operates trains
from Cologne and Frankfurt advice and services if you between Paris, Brussels,
are not bike friendly; use show a membership card Rotterdam and Amsterdam
regular trains instead. from your own automobile (3½ hours from Paris). It also
association, such as the AA has good advance fares and
THE ESSENTIAL or AAA. there is a range of discount
TRIP PLANNER ¨¨Hitching is uncommon in schemes.
the Netherlands. Like most
The service 9292.nl destinations, it poses a small In the south there is an
(www.9292.nl) is an but potentially serious risk hourly service between
unrivalled planning and is not recommended. Maastricht and Liège (30
resource for getting ¨¨Ferries take cars minutes).
around the Netherlands. and motorcycles to the
It has comprehensive Netherlands from several GERMANY
schedules for every ports in the UK including German ICE high-speed
train, tram and bus in Harwich to Hoek van Holland trains run six times a day
the country in English. and Hull to Europoort between Amsterdam and
There is a brilliant free (both near Rotterdam). Cologne (2½ hours) via
smartphone app. There’s also a service from Utrecht. Many continue on
Newcastle to IJmuiden near to Frankfurt (four hours) via
On the web or app, Amsterdam. Frankfurt Airport.
enter your start and end
points (eg an address, Train Advance purchase fares
train station, museum, bought on the web are as
hotel); the results in- International train connec- little as €34. Buy tickets in
clude walking details tions are good. All Eurail and advance at either www.b-­
and fares. Inter-Rail passes are valid europe.com or www.bahn.de,
on the Dutch national train then print them out and pres-
service, NS (Nederlandse ent them on the train or show
Spoorwegen; www.ns.nl). Many them on a smartphone.

With connections in Co-
logne or Frankfurt, you can
reach any part of Germany
easily. Other direct services
include several regular trains

301

a day between Amsterdam and Hoek van Holland, 31km est train journey, between
and Berlin (6½ hours) and a northwest of Rotterdam, linked Groningen and Maastricht,
local service from Groningen to central Rotterdam by train takes 4¼ hours), there are no
east across the border to tiny (30 minutes). The fast HSS domestic flights.
Leer, where you can get trains ferries take 5½ hours and depart
to Bremen and beyond. in each direction twice a day. Bicycle Tr a nsp o rt S ea
Overnight ferries take 8½ hours
From Maastricht you can (one daily), as do normal day The Netherlands is extremely
reach Cologne via Liège in ferries (one daily). Foot passen- bike friendly and a fiets
Belgium and Aachen in Ger- gers pay from UK£73 return. (bicycle) is the way to go.
many (1½ to two hours). Fares for a car and driver range Many people have the trip of
from UK£143 to UK£400 return a lifetime using nothing but
UK depending on the season and the pedal power. Most modes
Eurostar (www.eurostar.com) day of the week. Options such as of transport, such as trains
Services take two hours from reclining chairs and cabins cost and buses, are friendly to
London St Pancras to Brussels. extra and are compulsory on cyclists and their bikes. Dedi-
There you can connect to high- night crossings. cated bike routes go virtually
speed trains to the Netherlands P&O Ferries (www.poferries. everywhere.
and Amsterdam (two hours from com) Operates an overnight
Brussels). From late 2016, direct ferry every evening (11¾ hours) Boat
Eurostar services will run from between Hull and Europoort,
London to Amsterdam, stopping 39km west of central Rotterdam. Ferry
at Brussels, Antwerp, Rotterdam Book bus tickets (40 minutes)
and Schiphol International Air- to/from Rotterdam when you Ferries connect the mainland
port, with a London–Amsterdam reserve your berth. Return with the five Frisian Islands.
journey time of four hours. fares start at UK£104 for a foot Passenger ferries span the
Dutch Flyer (www.stenaline. passenger and UK£120 for a car Westerschelde in the south
co.uk) Its services are one of with driver. Prices include berths of Zeeland, providing a link
the cheapest ways to reach the in an inside cabin; luxury cabins between the southwestern
Netherlands from the UK. Trains are available. Prices are much expanse of the country and
from London (Liverpool St Sta- higher in peak season. Belgium. These are popular
tion), Cambridge and Norwich DFDS Seaways (www.dfds- with people using the Zee-
connect with ferries sailing from seaways.co.uk) Sails between brugge ferry terminal and
Harwich to Hoek van Holland, Newcastle and IJmuiden, 30km run frequently year-round.
where a further train travels on northwest of Amsterdam, linked
to Rotterdam and Amsterdam. to Amsterdam by bus; the 15- Regular ferries connect
The journey takes around nine hour sailings depart every day. Den Helder with the Wad-
hours and costs as little as The earlier you book, the lower denzee island of Texel, from
UK£49 one way. your fare: return fares start at where there are also ferries
UK£67 for a foot passenger in to Vlieland.
Sea an economy berth, plus UK£148
for a car. Prices go up in peak The Waterbus (%0800
UK season. The website is relentless 023 25 45; www.waterbus.nl;
in its efforts to upsell. day pass adult/child €13/9.50)
Several companies operate is an excellent fast ferry
car/passenger ferries be- GETTING service that links Rotterdam
tween the Netherlands and AROUND and Dordrecht as well as the
the UK. Most travel agents popular tourist destinations
have details of the services The Netherlands is very of Kinderdijk and Biesbosch
but might not always know easy to get around. If you are National Park. Boats leave
the finer points. The ferry sticking to all but the most from Willemskade every 30
companies run frequent remote villages and sights, minutes.
specials. There are also you won’t need a car as the
train–ferry–train services train and bus system blan- Many more minor servic-
available. kets the country. Or you can es provide links across the
do as the Dutch do and hop myriad Dutch canals and
Reservations are essen- on a bike. waterways.
tial for cars in high season,
although motorcycles can Air Hire
often be squeezed in. Most
ferries don’t charge for a With a country as small as Renting a boat is a popular
bike and have no shortage of the Netherlands (the long- way to tour rivers, lakes and
storage space. inland seas. Boats come in
Stena Line (www.stenaline. all shapes and sizes, from
co.uk) Sails between Harwich canoes to motor boats,
small sailing boats, and large
and historic former cargo

Tr a nsp o rt B us302 the A2 southeast to Maas- most big towns and cities
sloops. Prices run the gamut tricht are especially likely have an office. Members of
and there are hundreds of to be jammed at rush hour auto associations in their
rental firms throughout the and during busy travel peri- home countries (the AA,
country. ods; traffic jams with a total AAA, CAA, NRMA etc) can
length of 350km or more get assistance, free maps,
Bus aren’t unheard of during the discounts and more.
holiday season.
Buses are used for regional Driving Licence
transport rather than for long Smaller roads are usually
distances, which are better well maintained, but the Visitors from outside the EU
travelled by train. They pro- campaign to discourage car are entitled to drive in the
vide a vital service, especially use throws up numerous Netherlands on their foreign
in parts of the north and obstacles: two-lane roads licences for a period of up to
east, where trains are less are repainted to be one-lane 185 days per calendar year.
frequent or nonexistent. The with wide bike lanes or there EU licences are accepted
fares are zone-based. You are barriers, speed bumps year-round.
can always buy a temporary and other ‘traffic-calming
paper OV-chipkaart ticket schemes’. You’ll need to show a valid
from the driver (€2.70 to driving licence when hiring
€5 for modest distances) Parking a car can be a car in the Netherlands. An
but most people pay with a both a major headache and international driving permit
preloaded OV-chipkaart. expensive. Cities purposely (IDP) is not needed.
limit parking to discourage
There is only one class of car use and rates are high: Fuel
travel. Some regions have hotels boast about ‘discount’
day passes good for all the parking rates for overnight Like much of Western
buses; ask a driver, they are guests of €30. Amsterdam Europe, petrol is very ex-
usually very helpful. has the highest parking rates pensive and fluctuates on
in the world, averaging €50 a regular basis. Prices are
per day. generally €1.70 per litre
(about US$8.50 per gallon).
Car & Motorcycle Automobile Gasoline (petrol) is benzine
Associations in Dutch, while unleaded fuel
Dutch freeways are extensive is loodvrij. Leaded fuel is
but prone to congestion. ANWB (%070-314 14 14; www. not sold in the Netherlands
Those around Amsterdam, anwb.nl) is the automobile but diesel (€1.27 per litre) is
the A4 south to Belgium and club in the Netherlands; always available and much
cheaper, so it can be worth
FARES, TICKETS & OV-CHIPKAARTS renting a diesel car. Liquid
petroleum gas (€0.73 per
Local transport tickets are smart cards called the litre) can be purchased at
OV-chipkaart (www.ov-chipkaart.nl). petrol stations displaying
LPG signs.
¨¨Either purchase a reusable OV-chipkaart in advance
at a local transport-information office, or purchase a To check current fuel
disposable one when you board a bus or tram. prices, visit www.fuel-prices-­
europe.info.
¨¨Some trams have conductors responsible for
ticketing, while on others the drivers handle tickets. Hire

¨¨When you enter and exit a bus, tram or metro, hold the ¨¨The Netherlands is well
card against a reader at the doors or station gates. The covered for car hire; all
system then calculates your fare and deducts it from the major firms have numerous
card. If you don’t check out, the system will deduct the locations.
highest fare possible. ¨¨Apart from in Amsterdam
and at the airports, the
¨¨Fares for the reusable cards are much lower than the car-hire companies can be
disposable ones (though you do have to pay an initial in inconvenient locations if
€7.50 fee; the card is valid for five years). you’re arriving by train.
¨¨You must be at least 23
¨¨You can also buy OV-chipkaarts for unlimited use for years of age to hire a car
one or more days, and this often is the most convenient in the Netherlands. Some
option. Local transport operators sell these. car-hire firms levy a small
surcharge for drivers under
¨¨Stored-value OV-chipkaarts can be used on trains 25.
throughout the Netherlands. ¨¨A credit card is required
to rent.

303

ROAD DISTANCES (KM)

Apeldoorn 86 Tr a nsp o rt L ocal T ransport
Arnhem 99 27
Breda 101 141 111
Den Bosch 88 91 64 48

Den Haag 55 133 118 72 102

Dordrecht 98 133 102 30 65 45 92
Eindhoven 121 109 82 57 32 134

Enschede 161 75 98 212 162 224 200 180
Groningen 203 147 172 260 236 252 248 254 148
Haarlem 19 117 114 121 103 51 94 136 184 204
Leeuwarden 139 133 158 248 222 188 234 240 163 62 148

Leiden 45 125 110 87 99 17 60 132 192 242 42 178
Maastricht
Nijmegen 213 201 167 146 124 223 181 86 274 348 228 334 239
Rotterdam
Tilburg 122 63 18 101 44 135 98 62 134 208 135 194 131 148
Utrecht
73 128 118 51 81 21 24 113 195 251 70 206 36 202 114 81
114 115 88 25 25 102 60 34 186 260 129 246 117 123 68 81
37 72 64 73 55 62 61 88 139 195 54 181 54 180 85 57

Amsterdam
Apeldoorn
Arnhem
Breda
Den Bosch
Den Haag
Dordrecht
Eindhoven
Enschede
Groningen
Haarlem
Leeuwarden
Leiden
Maastricht
Nijmegen
Rotterdam
Tilburg

¨¨Less than 4% of European around €10 to €20 per day, ¨¨If you are trying to turn
cars have automatic is normally available to cover right, bikes have priority.
transmission; if you need this amount. See what your ¨¨At roundabouts yield to
this, you should reserve well credit card and home auto vehicles already travelling in
ahead and be prepared to insurance cover; you may not the circle.
pay a huge surcharge for need anything extra, making ¨¨Speed limits are 50km/h in
your rental. that bargain rental an actual built-up areas, 80km/h in the
bargain. country, 100km/h on major
Insurance through-roads and 120km/h
Road Rules on freeways (sometimes
Collision damage waiver 100km/h, clearly marked).
(CDW), an insurance policy Rules are similar to the rest Speed cameras are hidden
that limits your financial of Continental Europe. Full everywhere.
liability for damage, is a concentration is required be-
costly add-on for rentals but cause you may need to yield Local Transport
may be necessary. Without to cars, bikes that appear out
insurance you’ll be liable for of nowhere and pedestrians Bicycle
damages up to the full value in quick succession.
of the vehicle. ¨¨Traffic travels on the right. Any Dutch town you visit is
¨¨The minimum driving age liable to be blanketed with
Many credit cards and is 18 for vehicles and 16 for bicycle paths. They’re either
home auto-insurance poli- motorcycles. on the streets or in the form
cies offer CDW-type cover- ¨¨Seatbelts are required for of smooth off-road routes.
age; make certain about this everyone in a vehicle, and
before you decline the costly children under 12 must ride Bus, Tram & Metro
(from €10 per day) CDW. in the back if there’s room.
¨¨Trams always have right Buses and trams operate in
At most car-rental firms, of way. most cities, and Amsterdam
CDW does not cover the first and Rotterdam have the added
€500 to €1000 of damages bonus of metro networks.
incurred. Yet another add-on,
an excess-cover package for

Tr a nsp o rt T rain304 scheduling and fares remain Smaller stations, however,
part of the national system. often have no services at all
Taxi ¨¨Bikes are welcome on the and are merely hollow – often
train system. architecturally beautiful –
Taxis are usually booked ¨¨Stations show departure shells of their former selves.
by phone – officially you’re information but the boards At these there may only be
not supposed to wave them don’t show trip duration or ticket vending machines. This
down on the street – and arrival times, so planning is especially true on non-NS
also wait outside train sta- requires the web or a visit lines.
tions and hotels. They cost to a ticket or information
roughly €12 to €15 for 5km. window. LOCKERS
Even short trips in town can ¨¨The system shuts down Many train stations have
get expensive quickly. roughly from midnight lockers, much to the delight
to 6am except in the of day trippers. These are
Train Amsterdam–Schiphol– operated using a credit card.
Rotterdam–Den Haag– The one-day fee is €3.60 to
Dutch trains are efficient, fast Leiden circuit where trains €6 depending on size and
and comfortable. Trains are run hourly all night. location. If you return after
frequent and serve domestic ¨¨High-speed NS more than 24 hours, you
destinations at regular inter- trains operate between have to insert your credit
vals, sometimes five or six Amsterdam, Schiphol, card to pay an extra charge.
times an hour. It’s an excel- Rotterdam and Breda. If it’s more than 72 hours,
lent system and possibly all your goods will have been
you’ll need to get around the Train Stations removed and you have to pay
country, although there are a a €70 fine.
few caveats. Medium and large railway
¨¨The national train stations have a full range of Note that some stations
company NS (Nederlandse services: currency exchange, popular with day trippers (eg
Spoorwegen; www.ns.nl) ATMs, small groceries, food Enkhuizen, Delft) do not have
operates all the major lines in courts, FEBO-like coin-­ lockers.
the Netherlands. Minor lines operated snack-food vending
in the north and east have machines, flower shops and Train Tickets
been hived off to private bus much more.
and train operators, although Train travel in the Nether-
lands is reasonably priced.
TIPS FOR BUYING TICKETS Tickets cost the same during
the day as in the evening.
Buying a train ticket is the hardest part of riding Dutch
trains. PURCHASING TICKETS
There is one important
¨¨Only some ticket machines accept cash, and those are caveat to buying tickets in
coin-only, so you need a pocketful of change. the Netherlands for visitors:
non-European credit and
¨¨Ticket machines that accept plastic will not work debit cards are almost im-
with most non-European credit and ATM cards. The possible to use.
exceptions are a limited number of machines at Schiphol Ticket windows Available at
and Amsterdam Centraal. midsize to larger stations. Staff
speak English and are often very
¨¨Ticket windows do not accept credit or ATM cards, good at figuring out the lowest
although they will accept paper euros. Lines are often fare you need to pay, especially
quite long and there is a surcharge for the often- if you have a complex itinerary of
unavoidable need to use a ticket window. day trips in mind. But windows
may be closed at night or the
¨¨Discounted NS International tickets sold online lines may be long.
require a Dutch credit card. The cheap fares can’t be Ticket machines Most only take
bought at ticket windows. Dutch bank cards. About 25%
do take coins, none take bills. All
¨¨The much-hyped Voordeelurenabonnement (Off-Peak can be set for English.
Discount Pass) yields good discounts, but only if you If you are at a station with
have a Dutch bank account. a closed ticket window and
don’t have the coins for the
¨¨To buy domestic and international train tickets online machines, board the train
with an international credit card, visit SNCB Europe and find the conductor. Ex-
(www.b-europe.com). You may need to print a copy of plain your plight (they know
the ticket. where this applies so don’t
fib) and they will usually sell

you a ticket without levying but also may have cheap 305Tr a nsp o rt T rain
the fine (€35) for boarding fares available in advance.
without a ticket on top of the HIDDEN TRAFFIC
ticket price. If they do fine TRAIN PASSES CAMERAS
you, you can apply for a re- There are several train
fund at a ticket window. passes for people living both More than 1600 un-
inside and outside the Neth- manned and hidden
RESERVATIONS erlands. These should be radar cameras (known
For national trains, simply purchased before you arrive as flitspalen) watch over
turn up at the station: you’ll in the Netherlands. However, Dutch motorways. Even
rarely have to wait more the passes don’t offer good if you are in a rental car,
than 30 minutes for a train. value even if you plan on a lot the rental company will
Reservations are required for of train travel. track you down in your
international trains. Eurail The Benelux pass is good home country and levy
for five days’ travel in a month a service charge while
TICKET TYPES on all trains within the Nether- the traffic authority also
¨¨Enkele reis (one way) – lands, Belgium and Luxembourg. bills you for the fine.
Single one-way ticket; with It costs US$396/255 1st/2nd
a valid ticket you can break class. trains from Amsterdam, Schiphol
your journey along the direct InterRail A Benelux pass good and Rotterdam south to Belgium
route. for six days in one month costs and Paris. Trains are plush and
¨¨Dagretour (day return) – €308/201. have wi-fi.
Normal day return; costs the ICE (Intercity Express; www.nsh-
same as two one-way tickets. Train Classes ispeed.com) German fast trains
¨¨Dagkaart (day pass) – from Amsterdam to Cologne
€51.40/87.40 for 2nd/1st The longest train jour- and onto Frankfurt Airport and
class and allows unlimited ney in the Netherlands Frankfurt. Carries a surcharge for
train travel throughout the (Maastricht–­Groningen) domestic riders.
country. Only good value if takes about 4¼ hours, but Intercity The best non-high-
you’re planning extensive the majority of trips are far speed domestic trains. They run
train travel on any one day. shorter. Trains have 1st-class express past small stations on
¨¨Railrunner – €2.50; day sections, but these are often all major lines. Usually air-­
pass for children aged four to little different from the 2nd- conditioned double-deck cars.
11 anywhere in the country. class areas and, given the Sneltrain (Fast Train) Not an
Note that for delays in excess short journeys, not worth the Intercity but not as slow as
of half an hour – irrespective extra cost. a stoptrein. May not be air-­
of the cause – you’re entitled conditioned.
to a refund. Delays of 30 to That said, 1st class is Stoptrein (Stop Train) Never
60 minutes warrant a 50% worth the extra money during misses a stop, never gets up to
refund and delays of an hour busy periods when seats in speed. Some have no toilets.
or more a 100% refund. 2nd class are oversubscribed.
International trains require
passengers to buy tickets in Train Types
advance and carry surcharges,
The following are listed in
descending order of speed:
Thalys (www.thalys.com) Oper-
ates French TGV-style high-speed

306 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Language

Dutch has around 20 million speakers world- You’re Graag gedaan. khraakh
wide. As a member of the Germanic language welcome. khuh·daan
family, Dutch has many similarities with
English. Excuse me. Excuseer mij. eks·kew·zeyr
mey
The pronunciation of Dutch is fairly
straightforward. It distinguishes between How are you? hoo khaat huht
long and short vowels, which can affect the Hoe gaat het met ew/yaw
meaning of words, for example, man (man) met u/jou? (pol/inf)
and maan (moon). Also note that aw is pro-
nounced as in ‘law’, eu as the ‘u’ in ‘nurse’, ew Fine. And you?
as the ‘ee’ in ‘see’ (with rounded lips), oh as Goed. khoot
the ‘o’ in ‘note’, öy as the ‘er y’ (without the ‘r’) En met u/jou? (pol/inf) en met ew/yaw
in ‘her year’, and uh as in ‘ago’.
What’s your name?
The consonants are pretty simple to Hoe heet u/je? (pol/inf) hoo heyt ew/yuh
pronounce too. Note that kh is a throaty
sound, similar to the ‘ch’ in the Scottish loch, My name is … ik heyt …
r is trilled and zh is pronounced as the ‘s’ in Ik heet …
‘pleasure’. This said, if you read our coloured
pronunciation guides as if they were English, Do you speak English? spreykt ew eng·uhls
you’ll be understood just fine. The stressed Spreekt u Engels?
syllables are indicated with italics.
I don’t understand. ik buh·khreyp huht neet
Where relevant, both polite and informal Ik begrijp het niet.
options in Dutch are included, indicated with
‘pol’ and ‘inf’ respectively. ACCOMMODATION

BASICS Do you have Heeft u een …? heyft ew uhn …
a … room?
Hello. Dag./Hallo. dakh/ha·loh single éénpersoons- eyn·puhr·sohns·
Goodbye. kamer kaa·muhr
Yes./No. Dag. dakh double tweepersoons- twey·puhr·sohns·
Please. kamer met kaa·muhr met
Ja./Nee. yaa/ney een dubbel bed uhn du·buhl bet
Thank you. twin tweepersoons- twey·puhr·sohns·
Alstublieft. (pol) al·stew·bleeft kamer met kaa·muhr met
Alsjeblieft. (inf) a·shuh·bleeft lits jumeaux lee zhew·moh

Dank u/je. (pol/inf) dangk ew/yuh

WANT MORE? How much is Hoeveel kost hoo·veyl kost
it per …? het per …? huht puhr …
For in-depth language information
and handy phrases, check out Lonely night nacht nakht
Planet’s Dutch Phrasebook. You’ll find it
at shop.lonelyplanet.com, or you can person persoon puhr·sohn
buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone phrasebooks
at the Apple App Store. Is breakfast included?
Is het ontbijt is huht ont·beyt
inbegrepen? in·buh·khrey·puhn

307

bathroom badkamer bat·kaa·muhr KEY PATTERNS

bed and gasten- khas·tuhn·
breakfast kamer kaa·muhr
To get by in Dutch, mix and match these
campsite camping kem·ping
simple patterns with words of your
guesthouse pension pen·syon
choice:

hotel hotel hoh·tel When’s (the next bus)? Language Key Words
Hoe laat gaat hoo laat khaat
window raam raam (de volgende bus)? (duh vol·khun·duh bus)

youth hostel jeugdherberg yeukht·her·berkh Where’s (the station)?
Waar is (het station)? waar is (huht sta·syon)

DIRECTIONS I’m looking for (a hotel).
Ik ben op zoek naar ik ben op zook naar
(een hotel). (uhn hoh·tel)
Where’s the …? waar is …
Waar is …? Do you have (a map)?
Heeft u (een kaart)? heyft ew (uhn kaart)
How far is it? hoo ver is huht
Hoe ver is het? Is there (a toilet)?
Is er (een toilet)? is uhr (uhn twa·let)
What’s the address?
Wat is het adres? wat is huht a·dres
I’d like (the menu).
Can you please write it down? Ik wil graag ik wil khraakh
Kunt u dat alstublieft kunt ew dat al·stew·bleeft (een menu). (uhn me·new)
opschrijven? op·skhrey·vuhn
I’d like to (hire a car).
Can you show me (on the map)? Ik wil graag (een ik wil khraakh (uhn
Kunt u het mij kunt ew huht mey auto huren). aw·toh hew·ruhn)
tonen (op de kaart)? toh·nuhn (op duh kaart)
Can I (enter)?
Kan ik (binnengaan)? kan ik (bi·nuhn·khaan)

at the corner op de hoek op duh hook Could you please (help me)?
Kunt u alstublieft kunt ew al·stew·bleeft
at the traffic bij de verkeers- bey duh vuhr·keyrs· (helpen)? (hel·puhn)
lights lichten likh·tuhn

behind achter akh·tuhr Do I have to (get a visa)?
Moet ik (een visum moot ik (uhn vee·zum
in front of voor vohr hebben)? he·buhn)

left links lingks

near (to) dicht bij dikht bey I’d like to Ik wil graag ik wil khraakh
reserve a
next to naast naast table for … een tafel uhn taa·fuhl
voor … vohr …
opposite tegenover tey·khuhn·oh·vuhr reserveren. rey·ser·vey·ruhn

straight rechtdoor rekh·dohr (two) people (twee) (twey)
ahead personen puhr·soh·nuhn

right rechts rekhs (eight) o’clock (acht) uur (akht) ewr

EATING & DRINKING I don’t eat … Ik eet geen … ik eyt kheyn …
eggs eieren ey·yuh·ruhn
What would you recommend? fish vis vis
Wat kan u wat kan ew (red) meat (rood) vlees (roht) vleys
aanbevelen? aan·buh·vey·luhn nuts noten noh·tuhn

What’s in that dish?
Wat zit er in dat wat zit uhr in dat
gerecht? khuh·rekht

I’d like the menu, please. Key Words
Ik wil graag een menu. ik wil khraakh uhn me·new

Delicious! heyr·luhk/le·kuhr bar bar bar
Heerlijk/Lekker! fles
bottle fles
ont·beyt
Cheers! prohst breakfast ontbijt ka·fey
Proost! kawt
cafe café aa·vont·maal
Please bring the bill.
Mag ik de rekening makh ik duh rey·kuh·ning cold koud

alstublieft? al·stew·bleeft dinner avondmaal

308 drankkaart drang·kaart Fruit & Vegetables
drink list vork vork
fork glas khlas apple appel a·puhl
glass kruidenier kröy·duh·neer
grocery store heet heyt banana banaan ba·naan
hot mes mes
knife middagmaal mi·dakh·maal beans bonen boh·nuhm
lunch markt markt
market Language Meat & Fish menu me·new berries bessen be·suhn
menu bord bort
plate kroeg krookh cabbage kool kohl
pub restaurant res·toh·rant
restaurant pikant pee·kant capsicum paprika pa·pree·ka
spicy lepel ley·puhl
spoon vegetarisch vey·khey·taa·ris carrot wortel wor·tuhl
vegetarian
(food) met/zonder met/zon·duhr cauliflower bloemkool bloom·kohl
with/without
runt·vleys cucumber komkommer kom·ko·muhr
kip
eynt fruit fruit fröyt
vis
haa·ring grapes druiven dröy·vuhn
lams·vleys
kreyft lemon citroen see·troon
vleys
mo·suh·luhn lentils linzen lin·zuhn
oos·tuhr
var·kuhns·vleys mushrooms paddestoelen pa·duh·stoo·luhn
steur·khar·naal
zalm nuts noten noh·tuhn
ka·mo·suh·luhn
khar·naa·luhn onions uien öy·yuhn
ingkt·vis
Meat & Fish fo·rel orange sinaasappel see·naas·a·puhl
toh·neyn
beef rundvlees kal·koon peach perzik per·zik
kalfs·vleys
chicken kip peas erwtjes erw·chus
hoo
duck eend wat pineapple ananas a·na·nas
wa·neyr
fish vis waar plums pruimen pröy·muhn
wee
herring haring waa·rom potatoes aardappels aart·a·puhls

lamb lamsvlees spinach spinazie spee·naa·zee

lobster kreeft tomatoes tomaten toh·maa·tuhn

meat vlees vegetables groenten khroon·tuhn

mussels mosselen

oysters oester Other

pork varkensvlees bread brood broht
butter boter boh·tuhr
prawn steurgarnaal cheese kaas kaas
eggs eieren ey·yuh·ruhn
salmon zalm honey honing hoh·ning
ice ijs eys
scallops kammosselen jam jam zhem
noodles noedels noo·duhls
shrimps garnalen oil olie oh·lee
pastry gebak khuh·bak
squid inktvis pepper peper pey·puhr
rice rijst reyst
trout forel salt zout zawt
soup soep soop
tuna tonijn soy sauce sojasaus soh·ya·saws
sugar suiker söy·kuhr
turkey kalkoen vinegar azijn a·zeyn

veal kalfsvlees

Question Words

How? Hoe?

What? Wat?

When? Wanneer?

Where? Waar?

Who? Wie?

Why? Waarom?

309

Drinks Signs Entrance
Ingang Exit
beer bier beer Uitgang Open
Open Closed
coffee koffie ko·fee Gesloten Information
Inlichtingen Prohibited
juice sap sap Verboden Toilets
Toiletten Men
milk melk melk Heren Women Language Drinks
Dames
red wine rode wijn roh·duh weyn

soft drink frisdrank fris·drangk

tea thee tey

water water waa·tuhr

white wine witte wijn wi·tuh weyn

EMERGENCIES There’s a mistake in the bill.
Er zit een fout in de uhr zit uhn fawt in duh
rekening. rey·kuh·ning

Help! help ATM pin-automaat pin·aw·toh·maat
Help! foreign wisselkantoor wi·suhl·kan·tohr
exchange
Leave me alone! laat muh met rust post office
Laat me met rust! shopping
centre
Call a doctor! bel uhn dok·tuhr tourist office postkantoor post·kan·tohr
Bel een dokter!
winkel- wing·kuhl·
Call the police! centrum sen·trum
Bel de politie! bel duh poh·leet·see
VVV vey·vey·vey
There’s been an accident.
Er is een ongeluk uhr is uhn on·khuh·luk
gebeurd. khuh·beurt
TIME & DATES
I’m lost.
Ik ben verdwaald. ik ben vuhr·dwaalt What time is it?
Hoe laat is het?
I’m sick. ik ben zeek It’s (10) o’clock. hoo laat is huht
Ik ben ziek. Het is (tien) uur. huht is (teen) ewr
Half past (10). half (elf)
It hurts here. heer doot huht peyn Half (elf).
Hier doet het pijn. (lit: half eleven)

Where are the toilets?
Waar zijn de toiletten? waar zeyn duh twa·le·tuhn

I’m allergic to (antibiotics).
Ik ben allergisch voor ik ben a·ler·khees vohr
(antibiotica). (an·tee·bee·yoh·tee·ka) am (morning) ’s ochtends sokh·tuhns
pm (afternoon) ’s middags smi·dakhs
SHOPPING & SERVICES pm (evening) ’s avonds saa·vonts

I’d like to buy … yesterday gisteren khis·tuh·ruhn
Ik wil graag … kopen. ik wil khraakh … koh·puhn today vandaag van·daakh
tomorrow morgen mor·khuhn
I’m just looking. ik keyk a·leyn maar
Ik kijk alleen maar.

Can I look at it? Monday maandag maan·dakh
Kan ik het even zien? kan ik huht ey·vuhn zeen Tuesday dinsdag dins·dakh
Wednesday woensdag woons·dakh
Do you have any others? Thursday donderdag don·duhr·dakh
Heeft u nog andere? heyft ew nokh an·duh·ruh Friday vrijdag vrey·dakh
Saturday zaterdag zaa·tuhr·dakh
How much is it? hoo·veyl kost huht Sunday zondag zon·dakh
Hoeveel kost het? January januari ya·new·waa·ree
February februari fey·brew·waa·ree
That’s too expensive.
Dat is te duur. dat is tuh dewr

Can you lower the price?
Kunt u wat van de kunt ew wat van duh
prijs afdoen? preys af·doon

310 maart maart first eerste eyr·stuh
March april a·pril last laatste laat·stuh
April mei mey next volgende vol·khun·duh
May juni yew·nee
June juli yew·lee A ticket to …, please. uhn kaar·chuh naar
July augustus aw·khus·tus Een kaartje naar
Language Public TransportAugust september sep·tem·buhr … graag. … khraakh
September oktober ok·toh·buhr
October november noh·vem·buhr What time does it leave?
November december dey·sem·buhr Hoe laat vertrekt het? hoo laat vuhr·trekt huht
December
Does it stop at …? stopt huht in …
Stopt het in …?

What’s the next stop?
Welk is de volgende welk is duh vol·khuhn·duh
TRANSPORT halte? hal·tuh

Public Transport I’d like to get off at … ik wil khraak in …
Ik wil graag in … öyt·sta·puhn
Is this the … Is dit de … naar is dit duh … naar uitstappen. is dey·zuh tak·see vrey
to (the left (de linker- (duh ling·kuhr· Is this taxi available? breng muh al·stew·bleeft
bank)? oever)? oo·vuhr) Is deze taxi vrij? naar …
Please take me to …
ferry veerboot veyr·boht Breng me alstublieft
naar …
metro metro mey·troh

tram tram trem

platform perron pe·ron Cycling
timetable dienst- deenst·
regeling rey·khuh·ling I’d like … Ik wil graag … ik wil khraakh …

When’s the … Hoe laat gaat hoo laat khaat my bicycle mijn fiets meyn feets
(bus)? de … (bus)? duh … (bus) repaired laten laa·tuhn
herstellen her·ste·luhn

to hire a een fiets uhn feets
bicycle huren hew·ruhn
Numbers
1 één eyn I’d like to hire Ik wil graag ik wil khraakh
2 a … een … huren. uhn … hew·ruhn
3 twee twey basket mandje man·chuh
4 child seat kinderzitje kin·duhr·zi·chuh
5 drie dree helmet helm helm
6
7 vier veer
8
9 vijf veyf
10
20 zes zes
30
40 zeven zey·vuhn Do you have bicycle parking?
50 Heeft u parking voor heyft ew par·king vohr
60 acht akht fietsen? feet·suhn
70 Can we get there by bike?
80 negen ney·khuhn Kunnen we er met ku·nuhn wuh uhr met
90 de fiets heen? duh feets heyn
100 tien teen I have a puncture.
1000 Ik heb een lekke band. ik hep uhn le·kuh bant
twintig twin·tikh

dertig der·tikh

veertig feyr·tikh

vijftig feyf·tikh bicycle path fietspad feets·pat
feets·pomp
zestig ses·tikh bicycle pump fietspomp feet·suhn·
maa·kuhr
zeventig sey·vuhn·tikh bicycle fietsenmaker feet·suhn·rek

tachtig takh·tikh repairman

negentig ney·khuhn·tikh bicycle stand fietsenrek

honderd hon·duhrt

duizend döy·zuhnt

311

GLOSSARY

abdij – abbey hofje – almshouse or series of postbus – post office box
ANWB – Dutch automobile buildings around a small court-
association yard, also known as begijnhof Randstad – literally ‘rim-city’;
apotheek – chemist/pharmacy hoofd – literally ‘head’, but in the urban agglomeration includ-
street names it often means ing Amsterdam, Utrecht, Rotter-
benzine – petrol/gasoline ‘main’ dam and Den Haag
bevrijding – liberation hunebedden – prehistoric rock Rijk(s-) – the State
bibliotheek – library masses purportedly used as
bos – woods or forest burial chambers scheepvaart – shipping
botter – type of 19th-century schouwburg – theatre
fishing boat jenever – Dutch gin; also sluis – lock (for boats/ships)
broodje – bread roll (with filling) genever spoor – train platform
bruin café – brown café; tradi- stadhuis – town hall
tional drinking establishment kaas – cheese stedelijk – civic, municipal
buurt – neighbourhood koffiehuis – espresso bar; cafe stichting – foundation, institute
(as distinct from a coffeeshop) strand – beach
café – pub, bar; also known as klooster – cloister, religious
kroeg house terp – mound of packed mud in
coffeeshop – cafe authorised to koningin – queen Friesland that served as a refuge
sell cannabis koninklijk – royal during floods
kunst – art treintaxi – taxi for train
eetcafé cafes (pubs) serving kwartier – quarter passengers
meals tuin – garden
LF routes – landelijke fiets- tulp – tulip
fiets – bicycle routes; national (long-distance)
fietsenstalling – secure bicycle bike routes verzet – resistance
storage loodvrij – unleaded (petrol/ Vlaams – Flemish
fietspad – bicycle path gasoline) VVV – tourist information office

gemeente – municipal, munic- markt – town square; market waag – old weigh-house
ipality meer – lake wadlopen – mudflat-walking
gezellig – convivial, cosy molen – windmill; mill weeshuis – orphanage
GVB – Gemeentevervoerbedrijf; werf – wharf, shipyard
Amsterdam municipal transport NS – Nederlandse Spoorwegen; winkel – shop
authority national railway company
GWK – Grenswisselkantoren; of-
ficial currency-exchange offices OV-chipkaart – fare card for zaal – room, hall
Dutch public transit zee – sea
haven – port ziekenhuis – hospital
hof – courtyard paleis – palace
polder – strips of farmland sepa-
rated by canals

31 2 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK

We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books
better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book.
Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your
feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who
sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded
with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help.
Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such
as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments
reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/
privacy.

OUR READERS Daniel C Schechter

Many thanks to the travellers who used the The following folks gamely pitched in, showing
last edition and wrote to us with helpful me around, sharing ideas, perusing text and/
hints, useful advice and interesting or providing shelter: in Breda Yvonne Lewin,
anecdotes: in Den Bosch Wim & Mieke Verberne and Ria
A Anne Dirks, Arnout Kors C Cornelia Pabijan Schouten, Cor van Marion & Ji Tang (Kampen),
D Douglas Morren E Ellen Hermans, Emma Frederique Hijink (Deventer), Koen Thuys (Ein-
Thompson, Erna van Balen G Gareth Hartwell, dhoven), Martin van der Kuil & Briggite Brugger
George Moss H Hector Del Olmo J Jacqueline (Nijmegen), Jenne Oosting (Groningen) and
Mahieu, Jim Koebel, John Baber, John Hodges, Sipke de Jong (Utrecht). Thanks, too, to Am-
Justyna Baber K Kevin Geraghty M Mac Al- sterdammers Bas Lemmers, Maarten & Jas-
phen, Martine Muis N Nancy Johnson R Ralph mijn Hubers, Akke Hoekstra, Alex Hendriksen,
Johnson, Rodney Mantle, Ronald Smeltzer S Judith Vlug and Mariana Fernández, and, as
Sain Alizada, Sandra Mack, Suzanne Wortel always, Myra Ingmanson. Enorm veel dank!
U Uta Kreimeier V Vincent van der Velde Y
Yvette van Laar ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

AUTHOR THANKS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC,
Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated
Catherine Le Nevez World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate
Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System
Hartelijk bedankt first and foremost to Julian, Sciences, 11, 1633–44.
and to everyone across the Netherlands who
provided insights, information and good times. Transit map: Amsterdam Transport Network
Huge thanks too to my Netherlands co-author Map © Map designed by Carto Studio,
Daniel Schechter, Amsterdam city guide co-­ Amsterdam.
author Karla Zimmerman, destination editor
Kate Morgan and all at LP. As ever, merci en- Cover photograph: the Seeker (De Zoeker)
core to my parents, brother, belle-sœur and oil mill in Zaanse Schans; Alan Copson/AWL.
neveu.

THIS BOOK written by Neal Bedford and Bain, Kellie Langdon, Jenna BEHIND THE SCENES
Simon Sellars. This guide- Myers, Charlotte Orr, Chris-
This 6th edition of Lonely book was produced by the topher Pitts
Planet’s The Netherlands following: Cartographer James
guidebook was researched Destination Editor Kate Leversha
and written by Catherine Le Morgan Cover Researcher Naomi
Nevez and Daniel C Schech- Product Editors Grace Parker
ter. The previous two edi- Dobell, Anne Mason Thanks to Neill Coen, Jo
tions were written by Ryan Cooke, Ryan Evans, Andi
Ver Berkmoes and Karla Regional Senior Jones, Claire Murphy, Wayne
Zimmerman, with research Cartographer David Kemp Murphy, Karyn Noble, Kirsten
by Caroline Sieg and ad- Book Designer Mazzy Rawlings, Diana Saengkham,
ditional content by Simon Prinsep Samantha Tyson, Lauren
Sellars. The 3rd edition was Assisting Editors Carolyn Wellicome

31 4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Index

A Amsterdam ArenA 91 van der Weyden, Rogier Sneek 200
Amsterdam-Noord 49 269 Texel 122-3
Aalsmeer flower auction 130 Amsterdam Pride Festival 21 Utrecht 138-9
accommodation 72, 292-3, amusement parks van Gogh, Vincent 59, Waterland Region 109
235, 273-4 Weerribben-Wieden
see also individual Efteling 248
locations Madurodam 169 van Ruysdael, Jacob 272 National Park 228
activities 20-2, see also Miniworld Rotterdam 149 van Scorel, Jan 269 books 252
individual activities Waterland Neeltje Jans Vermeer, Johannes 176-7, border crossings 300-1
boating 65 borrel 265
cycling 65, 221 191 179, 272 Bourtange 216-17
free 69 animals 282, see also Assen 217-18 Breda 248-50, 249
horse riding 60, 124 ATMs 295-6 breweries 87, 88, 288
ice skating 65, 267 wildlife Brinker, Hans 261
water sports 200 Anne Frank Huis 52 B Broek op Langedijk 115-16
air travel 299, 301 Apeldoorn 235 brown cafés 11, 86,
architecture 4, 17, 276-80 beaches
Alkmaar 112-15, 113 Domburg 191 289-90, 11
Ameland 204-5 Amsterdam 88 Frisian Islands 201-6 budgeting 14-15
Amersfoort 143-4 Haarlem 107 bus travel 300, 302
Amsterdam 34, 38-99, Rotterdam 9, 148, 9 Scheveningen 170-1 business hours 296
area codes 297 Texel 126
44-5, 50, 54-5, 62, 8-9 Arnhem 233-4 C
accommodation 38, 68-76 beer 288
activities 65 art 4, 10, 17, 269-75, 10 Beverwijk 106 cafés 4, 19, 289-90
brunch 85 art galleries bicycle theft 297 Canal Ring 9, 8-9
canals 73 bicycle tours, see also  canal tours, see boat tours
drinking & nightlife 86-91 Civic Guard Gallery 42
entertainment 91-3 De Hallen 103 cycling & travel
festivals & events 67 FOAM 56 Amsterdam 65-6 car travel 300, 302-3
food 38, 76-86 Frans Hals Museum 103 Groningen 211 Caribbean Netherlands 258
gay & lesbian travellers Kunsthal 148 Rotterdam 153 Carnaval 20
Panorama Mesdag 169 bird-watching 107, 202, cash 296
70-1 W139 47 203, 283 castles
Artis Royal Zoo 63 boat tours & travel 301-2
highlights 40-1, 40-1 artists 269-75 Alkmaar 114 Huis Doorn 142
history 39 Barthold Jongkind, Johan Amersfoort 144 Kasteel Amerongen 143
itineraries 42 Amsterdam 65-6 Kasteel de Haar 142
markets 94 273 Delft 178 Kasteel Keukenhof 186
planning information Cuyp, Albert 272 Den Bosch (’s-Hertogen- Kasteel Radboud 120
Escher, MC 169, 275 Muiderslot 129
38, 61 Hals, Frans 103, 257, 271 bosch) 245 cathedrals, see churches &
shopping 93-7 Hendrik Breitner, George Den Haag (The Hague) cathedrals
sights 39-65 cell phones 297
tourist information 97-8 273 171 Central Netherlands 36,
tours 65-7 Hieronymus Bosch 269 Dordrecht 163 219-35
travel seasons 38 Lucas van Leyden 269 Edam 112 highlights 220, 220
travel to/from 97-8 Mondrian, Piet 143, 274-5 Gouda 167 planning information 219
travel within 98-9 Mostaert, Jan 269 Groningen City 211 travel seasons 219
Pieter Bruegel the Elder Haarlem 103 cheese 12, 53, 64, 114, 287, 12
walking tours 64, 67, 64 Het Gooi 131 cheese tastings 53
269 Leiden 183
Map Pages 000 Rembrandt (van Rijn) Maastricht 240
Photo Pages 000 Middelburg 188
257, 270-1 Rotterdam 153
Troost, Cornelis 273
van Eyck, Jan 269

315

children, travel with 31-3 credit cards 296 Hash, Marijuana & Hemp travel seasons 193
churches & cathedrals Museum 47 Frisian Islands 201-6
cube houses 148, 2 frites 290
Aa-kerk 211 cuisine, Dutch 286-90 magic truffles 96 functionalism 279-80
Abdij 188 culture 253 Dutch art 269-75
Domkerk 136 currency 295 Dutch cheese 12, 12 G I N D E X C - H
Domtoren 136 customs regulations 293 Dutch cuisine 286-90
Grote Kerk (Alkmaar) 114 cycling 4, 10, 18-19, 26-30, Dutch East India Company gables 277
Grote Kerk (Breda) 249 gay travellers 70-1, 265,
Grote Kerk (Den Haag) 267, 300, 301, 303, 29, 256, 257
30, 11 Dutch East Indies 258 294
169 Ameland 205 Dutch landscapes 281-5 Gelderland 229-35
Grote Kerk (Dordrecht) Amsterdam 49, 65 Dutch language 306-11 geography 281-5
Breda 250 Dutch lifestyle 264-5 gezelligheid 264, 288
162 Deventer 221 Dutch War of Giethoorn 229
Grote Kerk (Edam) 111 LF routes 26-7
Grote Kerk Nijmegen 231 Independence 256 Gouda 165-8, 166
Dyke Road 119 Grachtenfestival (Canal
(Monnickendam) 108 Schiermonnikoog 206 dykes 112, 281
Grote Kerk (Naarden) Festival) 22
D E Groningen City 208-15,
130-1
Grote Kerk van St Bavo dangers 297 economy 253 210-11
De Hallen 83 Edam 110-12, 110 accommodation 212-13
102 de Spinoza, Benedict 257 Eindhoven 247 drinking 213-14
Grote of Lebuïnuskerk De Stijl 274 Eise Eisinga Planetarium entertainment 214
festivals & events 211-12
221 Delfshaven 158, 159 199 food 213
Hooglandse Kerk 182 Delft 13, 175-80, 176, 13 electricity 294 shopping 214
Marekerk 183 Delftware 180 Elfstedentocht 202 sights & activities 209-11
Marken Kerk 110 Delta Project 192 embassies 294 tourist information 214
Martinikerk 209 Den Bosch (’s-­ emergencies 15 tours 211
Nieuwe Kerk Enkhuizen 118-20 travel to/from 215
Hertogenbosch) 244-6, environmental issues 284
(Amsterdam) 42 Escher, MC 169, 275 H
Nieuwe Kerk (Delft) 177 245 Eurail 305
Nieuwe Kerk (Haarlem) Den Haag (The Hague) Eurostar 16, 301 Haarlem 102-7, 104
events 20-2 accommodation 100,
103 168-75, 170-1 exchange rates 15 103-4
Noorderkerk 51 accommodation 171-2 beaches 107
Onze Lieve Vrouwe 224 drinking 174 F drinking & nightlife
Onze Lieve Vrouwe- entertainment 174 105-6
festivals & events 171 festivals 20-2, 290, see entertainment 106
basiliek 239 food 172-4 also individual festivals food 100, 104-5
Oude Kerk (Amsterdam) shopping 174-5
sights & activities 168-71 films 252 highlights 101, 101
43, 46 tourist information 175 Flevoland 132-3 history 102
Oude Kerk (Delfshaven) tours 171 flower auction 130 shopping 106
travel to/from 175 Flying Dutchman 256 sights 102-3
158 travel within 175 food 286-90 see also  tourist information 106
Oude Kerk (Delft) 177 Den Helder 121 tours 103
Pieterskerk (Leiden) 182 individual locations travel to/from 106
Pieterskerk (Utrecht) 137 Deventer 221-4, 222 festivals 290 Hague the, see Den Haag
Sint Janskerk (Gouda) Diary of Anne Frank 252 language 307-8 Hals, Frans 103, 257, 271
disabilities, travellers football 91, 266 Hanseatic League, the 226,
166 Fortuyn, Pim 262-3 254-5
Sint Janskerk with 298 Forum, the 213 Hari, Mata 198
discount cards 293 fracking 215 Harlingen (Harns) 198-9
(Maastricht) 239 Domburg 191 Franeker (Frjentsjer) 199 health 294
Sint Joriskerk 143 Doorn 142-3 free activities 69 Heineken 60, 288
Sint Servaasbasiliek 238 Friesland (Fryslân) 35, Herdenkingsdag &
Sint Stevenskerk 230 Dordrecht 162-5, 163 193-206 Bevrijdingsdag 21
St Janskathedraal 244 Double Dutch 267 highlights 194, 194 Het Gooi 130-2
Westerkerk Drenthe 217-18 history 194 Hindeloopen (Hylpen) 201
driving 112, 203, 300 language 194-5 hippies 262
(Amsterdam) 52 drug culture 265, 295 planning information 193
Westerkerk (Enkhuizen)
Cannabis College 47
119 coffeeshops 47, 86, 253
Zuiderkerk 48 drug tourists 253
climate 14, 20-2, 293
CoBrA 275
coffee 288
coffeeshops 47, 86, 253
constitution 260
consulates 294

316

I N D E X H - M historic streets 223 food 197 Netherlands American House of Bols 59-60
history 19, 254-63 shopping 197 Cemetery & Houseboat Museum 51
hitching 300 sights 195-6 Memorial 243 Huis Marseille 53
holidays 296 tourist information 198 Icon Museum 227
Holland 252 travel to/from 198 Middelburg 187-90, 189 Joods Historisch
Holland Festival 21 legal matters 295 mobile phones 297
Hoogeland 215-16 Mondrian, Piet 143, 274-5 Museum 48
Hoorn 116-18 Leiden 180-6, 182 money 293, 295-6 Kaap Skil Museum Van
hunebedden 218, 254 Lelystad 132-3 Monnickendam 108-9
Huygens, Christiaan 257 lesbian travellers 70-1, motorcycle travel 300, Jutters & Zeelui 122
Kaaswaag 166
I 265, 294 302-3 Kade Museum 143
Lisse 186-7 Muiden 129-30 Kattenkabinet 57
ice cream 235 literature 252 multiculturalism 266 Kröller-Müller Museum
ID papers 295 museums
IJsselmeer 131 M 235
immigration 299 ’40-’45 NU 152 Leiden American Pilgrim
independence 256 Maastricht 11, 237-43, Aboriginal Art Museum
insurance 295, 303 238-9, 11 Museum 182-3
International Documentary accommodation 236, 137 Luchtvaart Themapark
240-1 Affiche Museum 116
Film Festival 22 drinking 242 Airborne Museum Aviodrome 133
internet calls 297 entertainment 242 Madame Tussauds
internet resources 14-15, festivals & events 240 Hartenstein 234
food 236, 241-2 Amsterdam Museum 39 Amsterdam 43
295 history 237-8 Amsterdam Tulip Marine Museum 121
island hopping 206 shopping 242-3 Maritiem Museum
island produce 128 sights & activities Museum 52
islands 19 238-40 Amsterdamse Bos & Rotterdam 149
tourist information 243 Marker Museum 109
itineraries 23-5, 23-5 tours 240 Cobra Museum 66 Mauritshuis 168
cycling 29-30, 29, 30 travel to/from 243 Anne Frank Huis 52 Miffy Museum 16, 137
travel within 243 Ark van Noach 162 Model Train Museum
J Bijbels Museum 53
Maastricht Underground Bonnefantenmuseum 200
Jewish history 260 242 Mondriaanhuis 143
239 Multatuli Museum 53
K maps 295 Breda’s Museum 249-50 Municipal Museum het
Margraten 243 Centraal Museum 136-7
Kamp Westerbork 218 Marken 109-10 Comenius Museum 131 Prinsenhof 177
Kampen 227-8 markets 17-18, 94 Cuypershuis 244 Museum 1940-5 162
Kasteel Amerongen 143 De Pont Museum 248 Museum Aan Het Vrijthof
Kasteel de Haar 142 Albert Cuypmarkt 60 De Valk 181
Katendrecht 156 Alkmaar Cheese Market Diamond Museum 60 239
Keukenhof Gardens 20, Dordrechts Museum 162 Museum Boerhaave 181
114 Drents Museum 217 Museum Boijmans van
187, 255 Bloemenmarkt 56 Edams Museum 111
Cheese Market (Gouda) Electric Ladyland 52 Beuningen 147
Kinderdijk 161-2, 18 Escher in Het Paleis Museum Catharijne­
Kingdom of the 166
De Bazaar Beverwijk 106 Museum 169 convent 137
Netherlands 259 Grote Markt 106 Flessenscheepjes Museum De Buiten­
King’s Day 20, 259 Hoorn Markt 117
Markt (Delft) 177 Museum 118-19 plaats 214
L Markthal Rotterdam Foto-Museum Den Museum De Fundatie

language 306-11 159, 9 Haag 169 16, 224
Noordermarkt 94, 12 Fries Museum 195 Museum De Lakenhal 181
Latin School 232 Sunday Market Fries Scheepvaart Museum de Zwarte

Leeuwarden (Ljouwert) (Westergasfabriek) 89 Museum 200 Tulp 186
195-8, 196 measures 297 Gemeentemuseum 169 Museum Hannemahuis
accommodation 196-7 Medemblik 120-1 Groninger Museum 209
media 297 Hash, Marijuana & Hemp Harlingen 198-9
drinking 197 medieval centre 95 Museum het
memorials Museum 47
entertainment 197 Haven Museum 149 Rembrandthuis 48
Auschwitz Memorial 63 Hermitage Museum het Valkhof 231
Map Pages 000 Hollandsche Museum Hindeloopen
Photo Pages 000 Schouwburg 63 Amsterdam 53
Het Eerste Friese 201
Museum of Modern Art
Schaatsmuseum 201
Het Grachtenhuis 53 Arnhem 233
Het Scheepvaart­ Museum of the Image

museum 63 249
Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer

op Solder 47
Museum Paul Tetar
van Elven 177
Museum Rotterdam 149

317

Museum Simon van Teylers Museum 103 planning information 207 repeat visitors 16 I N D E X M - S
Gijn 162 Tropenmuseum 65 travel seasons 207 travel seasons 20-2
Universiteitsmuseum 137 Northern Overijssel 228-9 visas 14
Museum Speelklok 138 Van Abbemuseum 247 Northwest Groningen 215 plants 283
Museum van de Van Gogh Museum 59 polders 281
Twintigste Eeuw 116 Vermeer Centrum O politics 252-3, 262-3
population 253
Museum Van Loon 56 Delft 176 Oldehove 196 postal services 296
Museum voor het Vestingmuseum 130 Oosterbeek 234 prostitution 295, see also
Volendams Museum 110 opening hours 296 sex industry
Kruideniersbedrijf 138 Wereldmuseum 149 Operation Market Garden Provos 263
Museum Willet-­ Westfries Museum 116 public holidays 296
Witte de With, Centre for 233
Holthuysen 57 Oudewater 144 Q
Nationaal Biermuseum Contemporary Art 149 Overijssel 221-9
Zuiderzeemuseum 118 Queen Beatrix 259
114 P Queen Wilhelmina 261
Nationaal Fietsmuseum N
painters, see artists R
Velorama 231 Naarden 130-2 paintings 270, see also art
Naturalis Biodiversity national parks 283-4 rail passes 305
Girl with a Pearl Earring Red Light District
Centre 181 Biesbosch National 272
Natuurmuseum Fryslân Park 165 (Amsterdam) 43,
The Night Watch 271, 10 46-7, 95 see also sex
195 Drentsche Aa National palaces industry
Nederlands Fotomuseum Landscape 217 etiquette 47
Binnenhof 168 religion 253, 266
152 Dwingelderveld National Paleis Noordeinde 169 Protestants 184, 256
Nederlands Openlucht- Park 218 Royal Palace 39 Rembrandt (van Rijn) 257,
parks & gardens see also 270-1
museum 233 Hoge Veluwe National national parks Rijksmuseum 59, 58
Nederlands Spoorweg- Park 13, 234-5, 13 De Boschplaat 203 road rules 303
De Burcht 181 Roermond 243-4
museum 137 Schiermonnikoog Eureka Orchideeën & Roman history 254
Nederlands National Park 206 Ronde om Texel 21
Vogelbush 122 Rotterdam 147-61, 150-1, 9
Strip­museum 209 Texel Dunes National Flora’s Hof 137 accommodation 145,
Park 121-2 Het Park 149 153-6
NEMO 65, 18 Hortus Botanicus 61 activities 153
Nieuw Land 133 Utrechtse Heuvelrug Hortus Botanicus Leiden architecture 148
Noordbrabants Museum National Park 142 drinking & nightlife 157-9
181 entertainment 159
244 Weerribben-Wieden Keukenhof Gardens 20, festivals & events 153
Noordelijk Scheepvaart- National Park 228 food 145, 156-7
187, 255 history 147
museum 209 Zuid-Kennemerland Oosterpark 65 shopping 159-60
Pianola Museum 52 National Park 107 Sarphatipark 60 sights 147-53
Princessehof Museum Valkenberg 248 tourist information 160
National Tulip Day 20 Vondelpark 60 tours 153
195 National Windmill Day 21 Wertheimpark 63 travel seasons 145
Red Light Secrets nature reserves, see passports 299 travel to/from 160
Philip II 256 travel within 160-1
Museum of national parks phonecards 297 royal family 258, 259
Prostitution 47 Nazis 261 pilgrims 184
Nederlands Film Festival 22 PIN cards 296 S
Rijksmuseum 59, 58 Negen Straatjes 93 planning, see also
Rijksmuseum van Netherlands Antilles 258 individual locations safety 297
Netherlands basics 14-15 calendar of events 20-2 sand dunes 173
Oudheden 181 newspapers 297 children 31-3 Schengen visa 298
Rijksmuseum Nijmegen 229-32, 230 currency 14 Schiermonnikoog 205-6
Nine Streets 93 cycling 26-30 Schokland 132
Volkenkunde 181 Noord Brabant 244-50 itineraries 23-5, 23-5
Schokland Museum 132 Noord/Zuidlijn metro language 14, 306-11
Sexmuseum mobile phones 14
line 97 money 14-15
Amsterdam 43 North Holland 34, 100-33, Netherlands’ regions
Sonnenborgh Museum
highlights 101, 101 34-6
and Observatory 137 history 102
Stedelijk Museum planning information 100
travel seasons 100
(Alkmaar) 114 North Limburg 243-4
Stedelijk Museum Northeast Netherlands 36,
207-18
(Amsterdam) 59 highlights 208, 208
Stedelijk Museum (Den

Bosch) 244
Stedelijk Museum

(Kampen) 227
Stedelijk Museum

(Zwolle) 224
Stoommachine Museum

120
Terschelling Museum ’t

Behouden Huys 203
Textile Museum 248

318

I N D E X S -Z Schouwen-Duiveland 192 Terschelling 203-4 festivals & events 139 Waterland Region 108-12
sex industry 295 Texel 12, 121-9, 124, 12 food 134, 140 Edam 110-12, 111
theft 297 history 136 Marken 109-10
Prostitution Information Tilburg 248 shopping 141 Monnickendam 108-9
Centre 47 time 297-8 sights 136-8 Volendam 110
tipping 296 tourist information 141
Red Light District tourist information 298 travel to/from 141-2 weather 14, 20-2, 293
(Amsterdam) 43, tours, see boat tours & travel within 142 websites, see internet
46-7, 95
travel, walking tours V resources
Red Light Secrets traffic cameras 305 weights 297
Museum of train travel 300-1, 304-5 vacations 296 Wereldhavendagen 22
Prostitution 47 travel seasons 14-15 vaccinations 294 Westergasfabriek 89
travel to/from the Valkenburg 243 Westerschouwen 192
Sexmuseum van Gogh, Theo 262-3 Wilders, Geert 252-3
Amsterdam 43 Netherlands 299-301 van Gogh, Vincent 59, 235, wildlife 282-3, see also 
travel within the
Slot Loevestein 165 273-4 national parks
smoking 297 Netherlands 301-5 Veere 190-1 wildlife reserves 122
Sneek (Snits) 199-201 travellers cheques 296 vegetarian travellers 290 Willem the Silent 256
soccer, see football Treaty of Westphalia 256 Vermeer, Johannes 176-7, windmills 19, 107, 112, 161,
South Holland 35, 145-92, tulips 52, 255, 2
Twente 229 179, 272 282, 18
highlights 146, 146 Vierdaagse 21, 231 witchery 144
planning information 145 U visas 298 World Press Photo 20
travel seasons 145 Vlieland 202-3 WWII 233, 261
Southeastern Netherlands Union of Utrecht 257 Volendam 110
36, 236-50, Urk 133 Z
Utrecht 35, 134-44 W
highlights 237, 237 Zaanse Schans 107-8
planning information 236 highlights 135, 135 Waal, the 229 Zeeland 187-92
travel seasons 236 planning information 134 Waddenzee Coast 198-9 Zierikzee 192
Southwestern Friesland travel seasons 134 wadlopen 216 Zuiderzee 131
199-201 Utrecht City 135-42 walking tours Zwolle 224-227, 225
sports 266-8 accommodation 134,
Station Hofplein 155 139-40 Amsterdam 64, 67, 64
street art 149 activities 138-9 Edam 112
swimming 268 drinking & nightlife 134, Gouda 167
Waterland Neeltje Jans 191
T 140-1
entertainment 141
taxis 304
telephone services 297

Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 319

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes

Beach Bank Tollway
Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway
Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary
Castle/Palace Internet Secondary
Christian Police Tertiary
Confucian Post Office Lane
Hindu Telephone Unsealed road
Islamic Toilet Road under construction
Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall
Jewish Other Information Steps
Monument Tunnel
Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass
Ruin Walking Tour
Shinto Beach Walking Tour detour
Sikh Gate Path/Walking Trail
Taoist Hut/Shelter
Winery/Vineyard Lighthouse Boundaries
Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Lookout
Other Sight Mountain/Volcano International
Oasis State/Province
Activities, Park Disputed
Courses & Tours Pass Regional/Suburb
Picnic Area Marine Park
Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff
Diving Wall
Canoeing/Kayaking Population
Course/Tour Hydrography
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (National)
Skiing Capital (State/Province) River, Creek
Snorkelling City/Large Town Intermittent River
Surfing Town/Village Canal
Swimming/Pool
Walking Transport Water
Windsurfing
Other Activity Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Border crossing
Sleeping Bus Reef
Cable car/Funicular
Sleeping Cycling Areas
Camping Ferry
Metro station Airport/Runway
Eating Monorail
Parking Beach/Desert
Eating Petrol station
S-Bahn/S-train/Subway station Cemetery (Christian)
Drinking & Nightlife Taxi
T-bane/Tunnelbana station Cemetery (Other)
Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway
Cafe Tram Glacier
Tube station
Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Mudflat
Other Transport
Entertainment Park/Forest
Note: Not all symbols displayed above
Shopping appear on the maps in this book Sight (Building)

Shopping Sportsground

Swamp/Mangrove

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORY

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London,
Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief
that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS

Catherine Le Nevez
Plan Your Trip, Amsterdam, Haarlem & North Holland, Rotterdam & South Holland,
The Netherlands Today, History, The Dutch Way of Life, Dutch Art, Survival Guide
Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she first roadtripped across Europe,
including the Netherlands, aged four, and she’s been returning to this spirited,
gezellig country ever since, completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writ-
ing, Masters in Professional Writing, and post-grad qualifications in Editing and
Publishing along the way. A freelance writer for many years, Catherine has written scores of Lonely
Planet guides and articles over the last decade or so, covering Amsterdam, the Netherlands and
destinations all over Europe and beyond.
Read more about Catherine at:

http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/catherine_le_nevez

Daniel C Schechter
Friesland, Utrecht, Northeast Netherlands, Central Netherlands, Maastricht &
Southeastern Netherlands, Architecture, The Dutch Landscape, Dutch Cuisine
Born and raised in Brooklyn, New York, Daniel C Schechter now lives closer
to Breukelen, Utrecht. During a 2006 visit to Leiden to see his niece who was
studying there, he was so struck by the sight of a steady stream of commuting
cyclists that he determined to relocate to the country. In 2010 he moved to
Amsterdam, got a second-hand Gazelle and hit the trails. Five years later, he still marvels at the
morning commute and has cycled through all 12 of the country’s provinces. Follow him around at
netherlandsbikeways.blogspot.com

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-
6th edition – May 2016 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the
accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum
ISBN 978 1 74321 552 4 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Printed in China

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,
mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the
written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent
and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such
as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,
access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair
to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other
words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass
email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions
on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with
our content.’