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Central
Asia
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Edition 6th Edition
Release Date May 2014
Pages 520
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easy-to-use How to Use This Book
4 sections
PLAN YOUR TRIP Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
Your planning tool kit 1 Sights 4 Sleeping
Photos & suggestions to help r Beaches 5 Eating
you create the perfect trip.
12 4KmttiewshnwhvluheoeahradervdellTiil-itsedcrvvebhueei.asmaeatrYdenkynkfao-rheoieyirtnunadrnkowkmCcebtuaiiaataerrewgssenccnretahaktwewktlrnislshtaatasdtehallornblceeAenefdtuexdaKsbuertttirerhscaeelestiioc,nft,otwiierysfftfepriyionovKotzrfheowfemzhBttseragir.voteunlraIhlayerktsdievaneh,(mieptlfnIatiosdpa2oiramlryaa0anmmnlma3lebadaeel)cuicidnrcetkis- , ELENA LISEYKINA / GETTY IMAGES © 13 2 Activities 6 Drinking
bWlaulel atnidlecweiolinrkg.decoration, Uzbekistan 4
1 PLAN YOUR TRIP CENTRAL ASIA’S TOP 15 3AmatopAopeefuKfysirfccovrhdtorPctoatsahKaa(muoagnlrtpemcva-erreS9Biineztwdsonihht8.daoi,ugaooadFe)krAtdsreracy’rhr2lsoesrendaiits,st0tsmvtn’KKyateAsi1eaaNdgnas7waltznnaazrahcaflWi’rarlszkuecosilgoshkaootgfchNemshtrtrmteutishblohsnaitdstteaetnrtegtahatmEeoe-soenPenevxmynfcaa.adspmaAtnTlt-dtgoanbaesuhbFde.cdunipeooaiemrtidpts’llicsihtoeoecttooefcenhmdlbnaPriaefkersoapedleagrtscbiaenaitlatenacoasnacseiolotgrhslsfacny-itnlhsddi- PLAN YOUR TRIP CENTRAL ASIA’S TOP 15 C Courses 3 Entertainment
55 WflKeiafevwsfatobsEupa.etiorpdledrhtaovBslmirluoaptsTdlWoeeArhacosktgro-ihsntlrafo,lrtiaaooetiudgskehndIemeMkonnfseghehdseiTdhrdtmnadhaiato.arhanaahotwne.rIamnawjeognthciiTdipaikk’isthiosvloeAWVedoihVtbnPsaessafaPatdgyitagalgnStedhnanllheoeakeelmhtniree,hetnllyehhylriaoktytnetio,slseiivohSrnhaRweeh(TsfapfreiHHhlepsseioatulayrarsalhv3itinjemaeensagnspianaek4mtdynshdritnbgoli.m8lareidwue.ynorsa)ldiy-ttag-n-y-s-
3 MARTIN MOOS / GETTY IMAGES © Tajik family
JANE SWEENEY / GETTY IMAGES ©
T Tours 7 Shopping
z Festivals & 8 I&nfTorramnsaptioornt
Events
ON THE ROAD All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference,
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Your complete guide Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we
Expert reviews, easy-to-use suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author
maps and insider tips. preference.
Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
53 range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
ranges, by author preference.
TOP TIP
2 VCZsooieutimaitzslaeaeannoldsestht,ote&eNfrrEocorUoPwfuiseanntytarv,rtiimtSeeasost,uiciAotathnunss(KntLrooaOrrlmIeia)a,a,alCtlSyawKnoaiabtzzdtaeaakri,nhlaIsstntroadaun,erlti,cshoJteanvpsiUsuaaSnlsaA,twNeasietnhwodr- MbcmdthhAReiUheatoooykeiegskemuousseaeshsunnermeotet-rtdtsthZosavscNeKep.hiatonSihaaayeout,iszebtaffstrdnialaooabSetiektgrnrneyaphyttyadary,pstoltliuyrapogefPaatnsNuragimonfduetreaur’orsk-stttlau-lre K A Z A K H S TA N
eaktvimnirpnhiniesFpesbgKaSsotlsaesyapa,rysineizbnosnncaimouogefiakraors,onhtdm.lraosdsemptvtarteaaClahornlaityelmetnianhmosdfbietneotlorsrare.aarRrarelUtveerehiAteSagsohrs$sainonas.is5uaenltPy0regyarftdhaioorttvevoiacuoedmavenUiesdtlomsloaSiasisbyu$nstvrlsps1gietest0er-qictca0tsuhoaive.aaibrneerrSloltieeepasutdaaaet1igsgsnk2ihpfee7cin.1ylnato3uoocs1upiuoLeetfraOstohtorforIieeinrrt4fsmbhu5tKceearsofadtyCouhtziaarnhnaeyekg-ir-s--. are easy.
Kazakhstan Казахстан See p129.
Fast Facts
COSTS Area 2.7 million sq km
WTaattacctedshhnihSliaraaeirmnvaedaoihfcpskaenshgnnraiwomitnstotsnnashh,aeycoofsotn,ggolloaesrfsssdltrAmdlrGeitetodbmenahwasysoooe’mrstesoretof-thdlacyhsduhdniwtnsehpn?eh’eisrlaefinuoirhileenus,shnfntvocftgto‘hiitsiaeaeupgnonnht-frclnrphbaoudnocitCtniairsaohsgnmdetstpbowmegigh’n2,ecfoileitte1ewstmclusharEseademtinaltgarorunlni-ltcricttndcirfdstayeohnAeekorasaituineeinstpswoottninrstieesetnoaauertcosavn.elarprtttwsniymiu,nhyTtl.ttdlirrsedThrniatoeesshagaehhlotsh.gavetebtrieorBbhekisatudteuwglheiueusmenognu-eartpndmgndldeaerdeiieoiansnaeetvvoassttn’cnrtsatefttshsgesiyteslnttcoblcrderaetgeoiuwaeneputnycesuvysyspirsiontde,egoetneeenhsenorhnAsdpt,,rvof,rutdlhpaoelmaammtewiealsrnhftls,soeiyahhpo,sejce.stopeberfbacnyqTToltoelo,hetjhculifheriotiyiiauineel-stncetyn-rs-g-. Capital Astana
Country code %7
AKTSalahmrryakamzatyrka..e....Vn....at....l...l..e.....y...............................................................5.7783791 RSleiglhattlyivmeoCreoestxpensive than Uzbekistan, cheaper than Languages Kazakh,
TKAAuyrkraztkylaislsukotra(.d.nA.a.r...a.....l..).......................................................................98990731 Turkmenistan. Russian
ALKUasastkrtaea-nKgBaaaunm.r.da.e.ab.n...ao...y.g....o......r....s......k..............................11910018782 D(4haH0CSTai3oolrtryrad0smeit-/nEeesf6otllfxe3rdrsopet8noapme0arbemcnTlArke,st(lpm5hrAela0oalsaimtnn–te)ey1al/5td2tky0oo1uT,oAup5,rbes0gAtyloe0ansoTn1ytd0aa(n,sr(0eao10)s2ftt023-asT00ul+0kermae0np–)te2pmr5lta0ertaa0silknT2a)5rt0n0yT+ Population 17 million
Famous for oil, steppe,
Semey ......................... 115 Borat
Exchange Rates
COUNTRY UNIT TENGE
Australia A$1 140T
P20rSEi,c0laee0tei0npRTgian, ($ngm$g(a$peien>sr2ct0owu,0or0spe0e)oT: p$le<)1:0$0<08T0, $0$0T1,0$0$08–0200000–T, Canada C$1 148T
$$$ >2000T China Y1 25T
Euro zone €1 203T
Japan Ÿ100 160T
NZ$1 123T
NZ
Russia R10 46T
BReesstePrvaersks & When to Go UK UK£1 237T
Aksu-Zhabagyly (p85) Almaty USA US$1 153T
Sayram-Ugam (p86) °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm ItinerariesmKsNAiAbyonoTasOreruOumthtgaatanunrylnhuonreeStzeeetraaeseiwrefi,RmtnnaudKeaae,slKoandeastAsnyhakvzeilonseezttarEauhavnksEdxytekhtuYxrhtuhMsamaeoprostmnnulooaomftdduauncatrhesnen’tattshhirentacA–,saeencugldpiSmstnidseetehhpseytasrcryl.erieeetttnmIohymaernfuettcy-adkhsodnuoneKoteaodlundeuaayun’ttrrrrdm,thoiekontseleraoiafteinstdrrvkwTwhteaaeeeiuenrhvlVcAaryaaaeokaarsktlAltiplyelitrsitlokn.eiiawtctpnsgyauaoiusint,lconu.h-osrZn–tnuorothttiosctrmotahshryhbie,ehenaatepigsagnar.ktyidhislnyetfgionre,
Korgalzhyn (p106) 40/104 5/125 Resources
Ile-Alatau (p73) www.visitkazakhstan.kz
Altyn-Emel (p78) 4/100 www.kazakhembus.com
Kolsay Lakes (p76) www.en.tengrinews.kz
30/86 3/75 www.timeout.kz
BAerscthitecture www.afisha.kz
Yasaui Mausoleum (p88) 20/68 2/50 www.voxpopuli.kz
Khan Shatyr (p98)
Palace of Peace & Accord 10/50 1/25
(p99)
0/32 0
MJ J ASOND
-10/14 J F MA
MJaabunniirdnddd-TshAmihpflillegrsor–csbaetklteoaiinpnsrgpls.yoem Mwahnieakdayint–fhgrSeosermepisaJTspuhoelyner.fiet’cst Nceonoljvdo–,yAbCupetrnsIttkr’iaselrs These symbols give vital information for
Afasciail’istiebsesatt each listing:
Chimbulak.
UNDERSTAND Must-visit recommendation
Get more from your trip Sustainable or green recommendation
Learn about the big picture, to No payment required
make sense of what you see.
% Telephone number E English-language menu
409 h Opening hours c Family-friendly
p Parking # Pet-friendly
408 ctpapUhoonoofoezPldlypbCiietteeeisraicrkchongaaiaatesdtllrpitiaesonassuslnngtpcAatceiChbrsneraiieeasalrnipsteteiogtaylnrlrryryaesttil.iagnhscWteAeeuetethsslyhaditateaar.htantcehcrhsoarnaiuuptnololllptndeeeecrnernodsgnmseoeahfiftienanit.voaoteehnpteataohhlnseeatya-udtKrttoieeoarbngercvicirtmioiatoointouoni’scnvs POPULATION: n Nonsmoking g Bus
65 MILLION a Air-conditioning f Ferry
Central Asia i Internet access j Tram
TodayFpsamloihenfreniedfatdtihnrsseeesniaimpnctnoeefdpooribrnrpoceevli1seniC9ungo9ergfgn1tse.ehtlExrneoa-atiwSlrcIoAlhsnyvsl,aaoiiietamffitnotu.Ch.nnADeeaelnlelvrteselharppnaaniulvltygebAe,ulasriyaceicegasiraenoihrstvss’aessivnonbtetfheaegpeendronratlaepiahttgpiteticelouiearmnrdlpb.prwauetslpietttrhno,ertseercsechoidooaunebnpfoiillamneitneaiodctfaifcnndaogdelltclehasarihpdsiosnteerogse,rsepicuiconapopclnuewholehiamnrtaodiitoeeeniss-t, AREA: W Wi-fi access d Train
4 MILLION SQ KM s Swimming pool
HIGHEST MOUNTAIN: v Vegetarian selection
KOH-I SOMONI
(7495M)
3 ABhtEgpnAhttuaWtrtciTrhealNoeofteripatooouqgohtednshdAinnji1dihurnepaeosetru9klogifaaTth,’cenewlrsso9aemnlmtelegiteabllr0iysptnrailyinnli,hlOyosros.onaeoobevtoi,IdnnrAsictctsaoserrrnleerrkcnafliMta’taiiotrofttrehefonsreeelrneolespdolaieoa,nrsfnntTstnhsCliupihUtErgabgesctntadeeroaehserocuSy.agosinvdlohdtewsrriIsnestttweGhtskaorerhrciietanespifcariyhtohoreantotnnnaadheltteanennrgh,lgsoltIAedvefdasrRifeoisudeesdaanronnctrptufisionntangeaohidcifeomsbonkddodnotnesnfuetCaientrrrisuosnieswrhtasAauonmcotninmgnawemrsaoshgircontmnhinrasiosUacwmrondluhgndtpmdieafarSganpiyaiahtts.aptnl,mbiu.rnogiehneCondtdaarTcredadeuasfetnelseionhcprlnanrwsprCoylodaeoelwiotoeotnflegrlotfcoysboUiielanutiltftooikpoaiciwlhitStrnvnceosniptritm-Acihnoaeedonanl.onaCenslsoulfoeIorCgldlihnmndtrcituamiAahluigitntioanes‘nlriesiWaonirrmnnnsaeciragmefttia.crgc-aahh-,a.e-e,eres LKOAWREASGTIYPEODINETP: RESSION
(-132M)
iwf eCreen1t0ra0lpAesoipale
Best of Print DIlqanoenhtm(curccnfohimtvopehhaoiofmgeaoaiTrtualaomifneterdOiatxvslilelhosaajtldceehmentiedaarrebdhnkrepnlnlictdieoylieicfdohoregorsdnsfsuneyfoeentsmeenscpKKagsssgrilctwttnpenueylbayyihiCiaPnrnvgeoalisrryactelrii.ggcuntnalssetlenetstyye.ds.ptpsbhltwxzzut,dTirhuaehtess–dnaahptetttbwiesiolrsraahsnonenl,reiinnisltoegttctsAaisw).thxnuttshtistirtiThhnerlcoaiTnreyteudaaiagetrhuetlnorsltegeootaraphkKdukntndmrsmteepyglmeehuedamspraoetembecergetrtolvnbcterytoyinsesoroidaumirzttnriusontahorhms-nthknmiecstpwaantmaeteebsnrvoeprdonrntdteeaenasefet.sphanttoodpieiadhcernaUdtro-exoirssevaudImevnznpe,tsmevpnibesldeoalweKaatseorberuacmtwlkahiecnrnBlssehfzieira.acinsdgaaiararccreftneckhrkecoaepgesifythirndcdeouendep,gshverlrsnoitivewacatnt2atdlhhaoaeainli0ngiac-tnsrd-eitdi1a-seh-d0l 40 would be Uzbeks 6619wwwooouuulllddd bbbeee Kyrgyz
T(OthChhuioseerlmriLfneaoogvTsroihoetuunHrrbeiietnrceoaebnrtnert)taaovSufehtlAiafwsudriloaipwteroor sfcetah.pAetluSsroielkstry PTlttiuoaahhnpshtotronhiereegermmlkdaDiraesirpCdsestetmesiiureeedinisossrnrcelntpucetcf.UracatiorgteDorrtthouzriilteaefiovbeamnsalTeintdccepdtsoAdlkkea.iueannstslintrtishtiegmueahtaiistelssargnhrrysisbnoeheetouuroavhr,betenseletfTrohespupreusCuneourrawrsrefftebtkcuainasnlIaAmccbstitsguceehrifulevsgarasatne,Aehlma(enipfaiAslspfdtgienaotc’soshctarriitlhstaanthiihrntircennecaieaiasciuenprsuAnlfisalrdttrrdar.yaacieganrtnkIstaTellesosynnarohoiaSdjoncfUlosineanykiagrtzatdtryi,rayeb,stuo,osdoteewrstatrskc,htenubjhoirneuumsopneathsssmtptaodeiitahhoninlamrvfbieenguny)ee-rrissgsc 12 would be Tajiks Turkmen
Road. 17 would be Kazakhs Others
T(FaPhacesecttoe-GpurranHectaoeotpdfkG1ai9arnktmdh) e-imcemnteunrsyeVlyicrteoardiaanble
region. b(%eloifepfopsuylsattieomn) s
derring-do. 82 14
T(EChxhceerLilslaetonnpdt hcteohrnaRtteoDmbibpsioanrpsap)reyaarcecdount of TAsagwtatCetnhstiphrrbnioiiceedeeglooedoenTClnmnhvnnashuaetgtefFt.raeosnhrrenrtAapcioomhuttednNluoyrsmpecto,waitrAAenlhcuueuiloAoTdt,snanbnyrbdAireOfltaa,atgllgeeeivesedsdatesheidanwiwdliaclaosbsrlgoor’piyesnieeteetplntoeshyihosbnmsnowoadseetofemnenaomrdecfiwadaddnornseyueiw,s.m,rttetuge,Ctstashkthheaceneceopoissientditosgrnehnsotirr.lootercffpreitaupatrmusrrotrelrtleoepllieueaieirfaoAct,tlosr-vinipiusieowrgecaniisnmnssisanhgomdgt,dliauohwoeylarrfesrrvneieac,ioslecRmdultntursodrouldnecgpentiossocumhsaosdusuIncdrrtisceotlarattcilahcniuanval,onreenetcmgrAtsusrtntiasreieiseteoinetsdhiosooraa-ntdefno-, 4
Kazakhstan.
Islam Russian Other
Best News Websites Orthodox
Rwawdwio.rfFerrel.eorEgurope/Radio Liberty
New Eurasia www.neweurasia.net population per sq km
REeugraisstiaanNewtwwww.rwe.geiustraansi.anneet t.org UZBEKISTAN KYRGYZSTAN KAZAKHSTAN
≈ 7 people
SURVIVAL GUIDE For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
Your at-a-glance reference
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.
465
464 eLCvSiayFtlsOos(RhasdhllarwiiebCiaeRFnBLlmgtaopnnniaWrowpiWkaouaosorochltieirbdStaeOgo:dlanorsworvetuyferlcoaeterroeRaeehlCbohAvvreweu-swstydtriykfemyvordhwhnerraA’noioOrgiDmoaiaeaeofetbkerlcoorilgnssn-ersnaouohiiiduvldnPiTbecnbl’vrilefrthnoacnialane,lnusurdtfattRrsodtanretlaeeiynyceAeyuCMloosyeieoignthd.rceahfggondRastakcdrvtstrm’lltohmaedio-odrnrtiylateofswbaCerehne,hfntyeelsttfacbilemtroeLrmsokaddwvfnenfsfhmhnmsen)eoeoithleebuhnfahkreyloaeeqfuinymuesh’Airt.etaidany’oeitianicaweoddepteyiinxrdnwsycutorsrotwhgLnlpn’teovatrraittesdorf-aahrnpsDoodgvsUwgwiamenmsayt.opieiieysarTyn(yWoSjlmuCSrdn,toiscuuorTsoeoooyuzctacohorkiiaoemeIlo,Asdfeapcencorih,)berermybtaefEcusrsreaealnasfnunoGtadesyathasikvengeoneieothhhspsmedrtsthtcnyeru,tSoioecovoisanwiei’rdStthnoaiahoakRreoluotpskgrCamdyrbnfsoerrueinfcaKodoeo.rooietonetathutCeSloosuaihiaagshl‘nurhgltrhbchwbdoryvnrcttnnaalnatrlauentltietagwn,bteideesrkoareeeoeleilen-euna’Arahatitdolkeemosiradutoysblrsdasitsspmetorelnleudladpypettsra.mvnorosito.oaweswvtemh-sumytfosaofp-eiuiiuie-mkIususttlwevkarfrrecieehnibdhtlcuhrsnlfiaputoepyeri.elplienyahaaaio-wlhl-aazvndrUln.mioaoailerltclnreediertYetliyyl-rr-r-uztbeoedrolfryetoyy;hl-h-eCteuydadskiiopuoaunmfyoefssswd.eroufaTr(nuiirggfom.tunooEerHFobnrorp’iYroevdhofElmbstrucel,geIrolrasohtcueolusloeoexaytfsinsveovtomipoiearplvuecsutohgioafuioaakruoWunorel‘rracaltrapbdeooixmiaeien.uoKehenutn-feeytrfvmeluedfInlsnlusocydllcnlhffsiminrrnffeydlndeikiuobaeietCmriaiAstafdiIttcusetm–aesdetitniceswtendseyn’arcerhzedhlohitow,wenhalrtuuazhlhprsaityoosayingi–hoxgbe.oadcoenaacwiocetehsrnhyeUttls,iloroaoitessnlmtplauosetkoyrsniunryoltmuuistaatit,saibuqcssnrzwro,muoo’ieioohnd,urontv.fehgrnoutnfgrtkcs.nntbioUfateounofhtrdtsoaryeeusrGocnrmlspaarodretnsafgtheidhdnerew)metrhoSoertl,oitlash,ngsbttstttnueeeclclacuimanaksas,sfxttiurudeiiy$nhpmmepgeuobrooteaoosAuriirngihiidncttyc‘uantoatdlugsdeigceeeaoaoe3netrsodrrarirncctuezoyiamylgguntotocehnhrtetnametyanrhrrhs0-hraoec.iracauhanotys-hhtmlfudgcrranmatttsgiatooeoSlaan0ydtuaaiunsw.noreasuuiiteaoel-shcishscqimtonoranonanknko0eldlalndebdsrtgoqaoteartfcaeahuMruekntiyenddotovxr.crnyaueyonunrnniaasanjtrlauaeid.totinlpoumtertlntirtiioyetos,tytphv,fnnvshntimted5atoweiei,geptodoas’sooiielotgybirol0elnrtxuisesfutlsken-nqatout-upsgtlmscadyhelu-aorae,ttam,ThegayrMeorelGk,svrwmmuaaetDBa-vfI.a.ofTneeuhonrdrhtsreb(ittculetooeeekgtfsscsnuarhtihetaeohaoThaotcsCisnetecamhipoeasreoOe)norceivaercTuornciashtodedr,atVeudtueadukxctecIwaeoHknrrVytreturtvhlnUsaitatpnirtshperpoeyLmpoyneensrtconhkcptntyycohn’yiSnoudetpIyegollrhesazhasootoe’coesucenloRtseomuomaaeAtapueeeieofhtepotsbrralosneohwhpcssouetourrciwrocttm-rueureryknrrssdyaprcueootnetepemwestfsutariyaperhro(apdr–oceyldseoyh.pcpipaumtsepgfersantkpahlsnafvmaseeerboloclaeiuesoirfyenagtyoattelnaomneohomnfpiytieeentootimdastrnfa.shugusupdcrunrlc.taidofsfrotcuesocgsoedwtdrtyesinecolttttroetaeyenaIsoirtsbcpomeaohoyxbteuftiwdiheaaatiorohpa.e–rscntnrhssrodftp,rraap’aacittcstnamutrn.lnasuupceprt)riapamletsoitstaaievhIdraonsihntcoaoKitoaenyttnrsnshh’tnsufcfef.ao‘y’iannneansrlmarfidlsagpatec,svsyryntagavyleufeiskgytorointllyhypodvhoetsnsseitnvmuayosinyyc,oiz,hCyswmoieofcrtodueditt(inop.ootmhnelogoleuoaranehelhumeohoaaoofduynhtnuabeohiorfetoobrmaxeunyxknueganoaotufni:rpaeweeteradorcenoop(mwcriotcbmehdd,wrsowsrpyatadolssfecsybarautnineggnnu)arenurhiloesduiore.nc.eescn-hadtetnyeanamtroplreptrtoryosorouyteatldceaniposydsntgaaolaaentottoftofhrenasooitoasknnrdnnreorausunterpfa.mi)eoddc–esnddri.ttvaddfedssosiaeste/ilsn-a- 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4 DIRECTORY A–Z ELECTRICITY
DIRECTORY A–Z CUSTOMS REGULATIONS
CCttovyMfhlhnPbeaeaafIoSeaneoeanrngmgrgitnedoilrnetMhdchksoariidyttlmeauaisidefaRalra,)rdleadbtsoanasrtAhs–imilasnaffate)lsreorhedvo,isnsi(ocAuaoMprensademaernnuslieasxomin(gddrpmcfntvmideyrodhiihaealill(oaalassleloaallseenleyfdeerrnnissgomdEeawtsga)ruCvoisae,enhbmemiemolnsseCu.eaerinteeaotmerrnhAisioamensssnetistanruo,–fg(isbiieasfnost.llse)ea,foe,estf NTcmnsitiushihtnooaAnhohsergnmsoerupSwwrsgourteleliuaVa’haungdstcetirdAghiim,heesogooma,eInerferutnautsihntigsordlnulotcChrlsocesuzrteaiaof)adtabnstspceiwletesallhiroiot.itlacbthiwAtiuvholnaleemsaiAntsnslo.csipyspgacNhiuettiaastcehaemlphlleeyleuseyeisoekvttrbt,ssd,uaeilj,fnnifflouwrwmi(getoonuha’il,ismdityglpeoohsststhnecrofwntratrruteakuhanitofflanuoselortekmhosrotlldieeeiwiencm,caadugtnerlk.heaentasaevm.odisnosAvbeaptmiisnarnfcoiacttgeatttihhcsvhtmugeeoveiegrpia,erehrtne,thnlye-
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Central
Asia
Kazpa5k2hstan
Uzbpe1k3i7stan Kyrpg2y2z8stan
Tajpik3i1s2tan
Turkmp3e7n0istan
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Bradley Mayhew,
Mark Elliott, Tom Masters, John Noble
PLAN ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Central Asia. . 6 KAZAKHSTAN . . . . . . . . . 52 Altyn-Emel
Central Asia Map . . . . . . . 8 National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 78
Central Asia’s Top 15. . . . 10 Almaty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 18 Medeu & Chimbulak . . . . . . 71 Southern
If You Like.... . . . . . . . . . . 20 Ozero Bolshoe Kazakhstan. . . . . . . . . . . 79
Month by Month. . . . . . . 24 Almatinskoe Area. . . . . . . . 73 Taraz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Around Taraz. . . . . . . . . . . . 81
Visas & Permits . . . . . . . . 31 Southeast Shymkent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
Border Crossings. . . . . . 35 Kazakhstan. . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Around Shymkent . . . . . . . 84
Activities. . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Kolsay Lakes . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Turkistan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Community-Based Charyn Canyon . . . . . . . . . 77 Kyzylorda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Karkara Valley . . . . . . . . . . 77 Aralsk (Aral) . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
Countries at a Glance. . 49 Central Tian Shan . . . . . . . 77
Tamgaly Petroglyphs . . . . 78 Western
Kazakhstan. . . . . . . . . . . 93
JANE SWEENEY / GETTY IMAGES © MARTIN MOOS / GETTY IMAGES ©
BAYTEREK MONUMENT,
ASTANA, KAZAKHSTAN P98
WWW.SETBOUN.COM / GETTY IMAGES ©
BAZAAR, BUKHARA,
UZBEKISTAN P187
Contents
Aktau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Ust-Kamenogorsk Bukhara
Around Aktau . . . . . . . . . . . 96 (Oskemen) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 (Buxoro). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
Northern Semey Around Bukhara. . . . . . . . 200
Kazakhstan. . . . . . . . . . . 97 (Semipalatinsk) . . . . . . . . . 115
Astana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Around Semey . . . . . . . . . . 118 Khorezm
Around Astana . . . . . . . . . 106 (Xorazm) . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
Lake Burabay . . . . . . . . . . 107 Understand Urgench
Karaganda Kazakhstan. . . . . . . . . . 119 (Urganch) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
(Karagandy) . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Kazakhstan Today . . . . . . . 119 Around Urgench. . . . . . . . 202
Around History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Khiva
Karaganda. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 People . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 (Xiva). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
Eastern Arts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Kazakhstan. . . . . . . . . . . 112 Environment. . . . . . . . . . . 123 Karakalpakstan. . . . . . . 210
Nukus
KUHNA ARK & KALTA MINOR Survival Guide. . . . . . . .124 (No’kis) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
MINARET, KHIVA, UZBEKISTAN P203 Around Nukus. . . . . . . . . . 214
UZBEKISTAN. . . . . . . . . . 137 Moynaq
(Mo’ynoq). . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
Tashkent
(Toshkent). . . . . . . . . . . 139 Understand
Around Tashkent . . . . . . . 158 Uzbekistan. . . . . . . . . . . 215
Uzbekistan Today. . . . . . . 215
Fergana Valley. . . . . . . . 160 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
Kokand People . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
(Qo‘qon). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Religion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
Fergana Arts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
(Farg’ona) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 Environment. . . . . . . . . . . 220
Around Fergana . . . . . . . . 167 Food & Drink. . . . . . . . . . . 220
Andijon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Survival Guide. . . . . . . . 221
Central
Uzbekistan. . . . . . . . . . . 169 KYRGYZSTAN. . . . . . . . 228
Samarkand
(Samarqand). . . . . . . . . . . 169 Bishkek . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232
Around Samarkand. . . . . . 181 Around Bishkek . . . . . . . . 250
Shakhrisabz Towards Issyk-Köl. . . . . . 252
(Shahrisabz). . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Burana Tower . . . . . . . . . . 252
Termiz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 Chong-Kemin
Nurata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253
ON THE ROAD
JAMIE MARSHALL / GETTY IMAGES ©
MARTIN MOOS / GETTY IMAGES ©
WAKHAN VALLEY, URGUT BAZAAR,
TAJIKISTAN P348 UZBEKISTAN P181
Lake Issyk-Köl . . . . . . . 253 Alay Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 Khojand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335
Northern Issyk-Köl. . . . . . 254 Isfara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337
Karakol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Southwestern
Around Karakol. . . . . . . . . 265 Kyrgyzstan. . . . . . . . . . . 297 The Pamirs . . . . . . . . . . 338
Southern Issyk-Köl. . . . . 270 Dushanbe
Bokonbayevo, Understand to Khorog. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339
Kadji-Sai & Around. . . . . .272 Kyrgyzstan. . . . . . . . . . . 299 Bartang Valley . . . . . . . . . 342
Kyrgyzstan Today. . . . . . . 299 Khorog . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343
Central History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299 Shokh Dara
Kyrgyzstan. . . . . . . . . . . 273 People . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301 Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347
Lake Song-Köl . . . . . . . . . 273 Religion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 Wakhan Valley . . . . . . . . . 348
Kochkor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .276 Arts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 Pamir Highway . . . . . . . . 351
Around Kochkor. . . . . . . . 278 Environment. . . . . . . . . . . 303
Naryn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 Food & Drink. . . . . . . . . . . 303 Understand
Around Naryn. . . . . . . . . . 282 Tajikistan. . . . . . . . . . . . 356
Naryn Survival Guide. . . . . . . 304 Tajikistan Today . . . . . . . . 356
to Jalal-Abad. . . . . . . . . . . 282 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358
Naryn TAJIKISTAN . . . . . . . . . . 312 People . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360
to Torugart. . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 Arts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360
Dushanbe . . . . . . . . . . . 316 Environment. . . . . . . . . . . 362
Osh & Southern Around Dushanbe . . . . . . 326 Food & Drink. . . . . . . . . . . 362
Kyrgyzstan. . . . . . . . . . . 285
Bishkek Northern Survival Guide. . . . . . . 363
to Osh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 Tajikistan. . . . . . . . . . . . 326
Osh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 Fan & Zerafshan
Mountains. . . . . . . . . . . . . 326
Istaravshan . . . . . . . . . . . . 334
Contents
UNDERSTAND
BJORN HOLLAND / GETTY IMAGES © Central Asia
JANE SWEENEY / GETTY IMAGES © Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408
ZENKOV CATHEDRAL, PAMIR HIGHWAY, History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410
ALMATY, KAZAKHSTAN P56 TAJIKISTAN P351
The Silk Road . . . . . . . . 431
People
& Culture. . . . . . . . . . . . 435
Islam in
Central Asia. . . . . . . . . . 442
The Arts. . . . . . . . . . . . . 446
Architecture . . . . . . . . . 451
Environment. . . . . . . . . 455
TURKMENISTAN. . . . . . 370 Northern SURVIVAL
Turkmenistan . . . . . . . . 393 GUIDE
Ashgabat. . . . . . . . . . . . 374 Konye-Urgench. . . . . . . . . 393
Dashogus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 396 Directory A–Z. . . . . . . . 462
Karakum Desert. . . . . . 384 Transport. . . . . . . . . . . . 478
Understand Health. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 490
Western Turkmenistan . . . . . . . . 396 Language. . . . . . . . . . . . 495
Turkmenistan . . . . . . . . 385 Turkmenistan Today . . . . 396 Glossary. . . . . . . . . . . . . 500
Köw Ata History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397 Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 506
Underground Lake. . . . . . 385 People . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 399 Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . 519
Gozli Ata. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386 Religion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 399
Yangykala Canyon . . . . . . 386 Arts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 399
Environment. . . . . . . . . . . 399
Eastern Food & Drink. . . . . . . . . . . 400
Turkmenistan . . . . . . . . 386
Mary. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386 Survival Guide. . . . . . . 400
Merv. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388
Gonur. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391
Turkmenabat. . . . . . . . . . . 392
SPECIAL FEATURES
Visas & Permits . . . . . . . 31
Activities. . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Community-Based
Tourism. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
The Silk Road. . . . . . . . . 431
6 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Welcome to
Central Asia
With its medieval blue-domed cities,
kinetic bazaars and remote yurtstays,
Central Asia encapsulates the romance of
the Silk Road like nowhere else.
Footprints of History Travel off the Map
From Alexander the Great to Chinggis For decades – centuries even – much
(Genghis) Khan to Timur (Tamerlane), of the world has regarded Central Asia
Central Asia’s page-turning history litters as little more than a blank on the map,
the land at every turn. Viewed from the synonymous with the middle of nowhere,
right angle, the storied oasis caravan stops rather than the heartland of Asia. For a
of Samarkand and Bukhara, with their certain type of traveller, this is all part
exotic skylines of minarets and medressas, of the attraction of a land that has been
really do seem to be lifted directly from largely off-limits to travellers for the past
the heyday of Marco Polo. Share a round 2000 years. Head even a little bit off the
of kebabs with an Uzbek trader or wander beaten track and you’ll likely have the
an ancient caravanserai, and historical place to yourself. Authentic cultural inter-
romantics will find the past and present actions can be found across Central Asia.
begin to blur into one. The region’s little-visited oddities, namely
Turkmenistan and most of Kazakhstan,
Mountains & Yurts are even further removed from the mod-
ern world and offer an addictive interest
East of the desert and steppe settlements all of their own.
rise the snowcapped Pamir and Tian Shan
ranges of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, A Warm Welcome
home to traditional herding communities
and some truly epic mountain scenery. Whether you want to explore the archi-
Here community-based tourism projects tectural gems of Bukhara or take a horse
can bring you face to face with nomadic trek across the high Pamirs, everywhere in
Kyrgyz herders, meeting them in their Central Asia you’ll be greeted with instinc-
yurts and on their terms. Ride out to re- tive local hospitality and offered a shared
mote lakes on horseback, hike from one meal, a helping hand or a place to stay.
village homestay to another, or take a Add to this the intrinsic fascination of a
4WD out to remote archaeological sites. forgotten region fast emerging as a geo-
The scope for adventure and exploration political pivot point and you have one of
here is almost limitless. Asia’s most absorbing hidden corners.
MEP / GETTY IMAGES © 7
Why I Love Central Asia
By Bradley Mayhew, author
Each republic in Central Asia has its own joy for me. In Tajikistan I love the unrivalled moun-
tain scenery and the incredible tradition of hospitality among the local Wakhi and Kyrgyz.
In Uzbekistan it’s the glorious weight of history and the sense of travelling in the sandprints
of some of history’s greatest travellers and invaders. There’s also something unique and
even slightly weird about Central Asia, as if the normal rules of tourist engagement don’t
quite apply. For me it’s a completely addictive place; I’m a total shashlyk-phile.
For more about our authors, see page 520.
Above: Yurts, Tian Shan mountains, Kyrgyzstan
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Aktau #\ Ustyurt ^#
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Caspian #\Zhanaozen Kyzylorda
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#\Moynaq Syr-DaryaTurkistan
AZERBAIJAN Amu-Darya
_# BAKU Kyzylkum #\
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^#Turkmenbashi Karakum Navoi Jizzakh
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^#Karshi
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^# Termiz
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44Taraz
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44^#GSNau_#aytlr^#iiTaosmAn÷#taSolUnHP#÷gaaKKrmANok\#EkkaaNstuunT^r#-dZe^#NhRaae^#bsmaeAgr^#ayvnleOnyKdgsiYajhoSnRonLnaGgk-YKe öZlcSTPT^#aoNAsrsuaNgrayrnt Silk Road haggling (p160)
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passes to Kashgar (p310)
#\ Fergana c Irkeshtam Kashgar CHINA
Pass
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FAN R Koh-i RKongur TurqFuaoinseMlaokuenstaanindsgreat
MOUNTAINS Somoni (7719m) trekking (p326)
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#_
TA J I K I S TA N
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^# #\Khorog mir
Pa OnePoafmthireHwiogrhldw'sagyreat ELEVATION
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10 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Central Asia’s
Top 15
11
Samarkand Bukhara
1 Although already an important oasis 2 Central Asia’s most interesting town,
town, it was Timur (Tamerlane) who Bukhara (p187) is the one urban
turned Samarkand (p169) into one of the space that best rewards some serious
most beautiful cities in Asia. Visit Timur’s exploring. Visit the medieval Ark from
own mausoleum, the Gur-E-Amir, followed where Emirs ruled with a cruel, vicelike
by the spectacular street of tombs of his grip; sip green tea beside the Lyabi-Hauz
Timurid relatives. For epic and audacious pool; and then start at the towering Kalon
architecture it’s hard to beat the crum- Minaret for a stroll through the surround-
bling remains of the epic Bibi Khanum ing network of bazaars, bathhouses and
Mosque, built for Timur’s wife. Then throw trade halls. Best of all are the labyrinthine
in the breathtaking Registan Square (one backstreets, home to hidden synagogues,
of the Islamic world’s greatest architec- Sufi shrines and half-forgotten medres-
tural ensembles), some great bazaars and sas. Bukhara also boasts the region’s
the 2000-year-old remains of Afrosiab, most stylish B&Bs, many in converted
the original Silk Road trading town. Shah-i- merchants’ houses. Kalon Minaret (p192)
Zinda (p173)
TRAVEL INK / GETTY IMAGES ©
SEUX PAULE / GETTY IMAGES ©
12
Astana’s Architecture Khiva
3 Kazakhstan’s custom-built capital 4 The former khanate of Khiva (p203)
(p98) rises from the steppe like a is an entire walled city of traditional
mirage to reveal some of Asia’s most mud-baked architecture, frozen in time in
audacious and cutting-edge modern archi- the desert wastes of Khorezm. It may lack
tecture. From the Norman Foster designs the lived-in backstreet life of Bukhara but
of the world’s largest tent and the glass- in return you get the best preserved medi-
pyramid design of the Palace of Peace and eval city in Central Asia, if not the Islamic
Accord, Astana is the symbolic brainchild world. You can wander city walls, former
of President Nazarbaev and the face of slave markets and extensive royal palaces,
post-Borat Kazakhstan. The constantly where khaki walls burst with green and
evolving city will get an additional boost blue tilework. Wall and ceiling decoration
from hosting the 2017 World Expo. Khan
Shatyr (p98)
JANE SWEENEY / GETTY IMAGES ©
3
PLAN YOUR TRIP Central Asia’s Top 15
ELENA LISEYKINA / GETTY IMAGES © 13PLAN YOUR TRIP Central Asia’s Top 15
4
MARTIN MOOS / GETTY IMAGES ©
5 Wakhan Valley
5 The Tajik side of the
Wakhan Valley (p348)
feels like a hidden Shangri-
la. Bordered by the Hindu
Kush and a finger of remot-
est Afghanistan, the valley
is dotted with Silk Road
forts, Ismaili shrines and
village homestays run by
welcoming Wakhi Tajik
families. It’s an essential
add-on to a Pamir Highway
trip and a potential spring-
board into Afghanistan.
Even Marco Polo was im-
pressed when he passed
through. To get the most
out of the valley, hire trans-
port or hike the valley. Tajik
family
14
PLAN YOUR TRIP Central Asia’s Top 15 Trekking Lake Song-Köl
6 Central Asia has some of the world’s 7 The jewel of central Kyrgyzstan is this
most beautiful mountain scenery. Ka- high alpine lake (p273), fringed with
rakol, Kyrgyzstan, is the most popular base lush summer pastures and summer-only
for treks to the lush alpine meadows of Tian Kyrgyz yurt camps. You can trek or drive
Shan, while the high-altitude Pamir valleys here but the best option is a horse trek,
also offers top trekking. You can hike from overnighting in yurtstays en route. June
homestay to homestay in the Jizeu (Geisev) to August are the best months to visit Kyr-
Valley (p342), or go with an agency on a sup- gyzstan’s idyllic jailoo (summer pastures),
ported trek to the stunning amphitheatre of when you might even catch a horse games
Khan Tengri and the Inylchek Glacier (p272). festival or a performance by a Kyrgyz bard
Untouched valleys beg exploration but check or eagle hunter. Bring a sleeping bag. Yurt-
security if headed to border areas. Tian Shan stay on the jailoo
(p269)
6
JAMES STRACHAN / GETTY IMAGES ©
7
ESCUDERO PATRICK / GETTY IMAGES ©
ESCUDERO PATRICK / GETTY IMAGES © MARTIN MOOS / GETTY IMAGES © 15PLAN YOUR TRIP Central Asia’s Top 15
89
10
ELLEN MACK / GETTY IMAGES ©
Community-Based Fan Mountains Bazaars
Tourism
9 The mountains north- 10 Central Asia’s ba-
8 This network of home- west of Dushanbe zaars have been
stays, guides, drivers (p327) rank as Central fuelling Silk Road trade
and yurt owners spreads Asia’s premier trekking for two millennia. Shop-
across Kyrgyzstan in an destination. Dozens of ping for melons, carpets
attempt to bring the finan- turquoise lakes stud the and silly hats is perhaps
cial benefits of tourism high mountain valleys. Go the quintessential Central
directly to local communi- on a multiday trek to meet Asian activity and we’d
ties. For travellers it gives local Tajik shepherds, or even say that the local
you a contact in every town drive to the seven lakes bazaars offer the most
and opens up a wealth of (Haft-Kul) of the Marguzor direct route to the region’s
friendly, affordable home- Valley (p333) and do some soul. Every town has its
stays and potential excur- delightful day hikes from own bazaar lined with
sions to remote sights, a chain of homestays. chaikhanas (teahouses),
lakes and herding commu- You can even visit the smoking shashlyk, fruit
nities. Kochkor in Central ruined old Sogdian city of stalls and even animal
Kyrgyzstan is the original Penjikent (p331) en route. markets. Our favourite is
and best place to start but Check in advance whether possibly the Kumtepa ba-
the idea has also taken the border between zaar (p167) outside Mar-
firm hold in neighbouring Samarkand and Penjikent gilon in the Fergana Valley,
Tajikistan. See p47 for has reopened. Marguzor though nearby Andijon’s
more information. Making a Lakes (p333) Jahon Bazaar (p168) and
traditional shyrdak (carpet) Osh’s Bazaar (p292) are
also excellent.
16 12
11 13
PLAN YOUR TRIP Central Asia’s Top 15 MARTIN MOOS / GETTY IMAGES © TIM MAKINS / GETTY IMAGES ©
UPPERHALL / GETTY IMAGES ©
Konye-Urgench Almaty High Roads
to China
11 Turkmenistan’s pre- 12 Central Asia’s most
mier historical site cosmopolitan and 13 The mountain bor-
(p393) is a Unesco World hedonistic city (p56) is a der crossings of the
Heritage Site. Once the leafy mix of Russian and Torugart and Irkeshtam
capital of the Khorezm- Central Asian styles. In passes (p310) are without
shahs and a centre of the a couple of days you can doubt the most exciting
Muslim world in the 12th visit the tsarist-era Zenkov and scenic ways to enter or
century, the city was pul- Cathedral, view a replica leave Central Asia. The high
verised by both Chinggis of the famous Scythian- valleys of the Tian Shan
(Genghis) Khan and Timur era Golden Man suit, soak are splendid and there’s
(Tamerlane). The enigmat- in the Arasan Bathhouse a satisfying continuity in
ic remains include royal and enjoy the region’s best crossing from ex-Soviet
mausolea, Sufi shrines and cafes, clubs and shops, all Central Asia into Chinese
a 59m-tall, 14th-century fuelled by the country’s Turkestan via the storied
minaret. It’s a short hop petrodollar boom. The Uyghur city of Kashgar.
across the Uzbekistan city is also a gateway to The Irkeshtam Pass is
border. Gutlug Timur Minaret mountain treks and winter logistically easier but the
(p395) sports just south of town Torugart Pass offers the
and a springboard to Silk chance to stop overnight at
Road bus and train routes the atmospheric Tash Ra-
into China. Interior of a bat Caravanserai. Tash Rabat
Russian orthodox cathedral Caravanserai (p284)
17
Pamir Highway Turkistan PLAN YOUR TRIP Central Asia’s Top 15
14 From the deep, rugged mountain 15 The turquoise dome and ornate
valleys of beautiful Badakhshan the tilework of the Timurid-era Yasaui
Soviet-built Pamir Highway (p351) climbs Mausoleum is easily Kazakhstan’s most
up on to the treeless Pamir plateau to the beautiful building, and a rare architectural
‘wild east’ town of Murgab and on past gem in a land ruled by restless nomads. It’s
the dramatic azure lake of Karakol into also one of the best places to get a sense
Kyrgyzstan’s stunning Alai valley. En route of Central Asian Sufism and meet local
you’ll pass ancient tombs, hot springs, pilgrims as they pray, picnic and tie wishes
remote Kyrgyz yurt camps and some of the to trees surrounding the holy shrine. Yasaui
most spectacular mountain scenery in Asia. Mausoleum (p88)
It’s one of the world’s great mountain road
trips. Tackle it in a rented Soviet 4WD or as a
challenging bicycle ride. Towards Murgab (p353)
14
BRADLEY MAYHEW / GETTY IMAGES ©
15
TIM MAKINS / GETTY IMAGES ©
1 8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Need to Know
For more information, see Survival Guide (p461)
Visas When to Go
A major preoccupation. # Astana
Visa-free in Kyrgyzstan, GO May–Sep
easy for Kazakhstan,
fairly easy for Tajikistan Samarkand KGoOcMhkaoy–r Sep
and Uzbekistan, and GO mid-Mar–May, #
tricky for Turkmenistan. Sep–Oct #
For full visa information, # Murgab
see p31. # GO Jul–Sep
Money OGAscOht–MgNaaobr–vaAt pr,
Bring a combination of Desert, dry climate
cash (perhaps around Dry climate
two-thirds of your Warm to hot summers, mild winters
funds) in US dollars or Warm to hot summers, cold winters
euros, and a credit card Mild summers, cold winters
for ATMs in the cities.
High Season Shoulder Low Season
Mobile Phones (Apr–Jun, (Jul & Aug) (Nov–Mar)
Sep–Oct)
If you have an ‘unlocked’ ¨¨Sizzlingly hot ¨¨Cold in
GSM-900 phone, buy ¨¨Comfortable in the lowlands, Uzbekistan, frozen
a local SIM card and temperatures in the especially in in sub-Siberian
top that up with local lowlands. Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan
scratch cards or at top- ¨¨Bazaars overflow Turkmenistan and and snow in the
up booths. US phone with fruit in western Tajikistan. mountains.
owners might find it September. ¨¨The best time to ¨¨Many tourist
cheaper to buy a mobile visit mountainous hotels and B&Bs
phone on arrival. Kyrgyzstan, close in Uzbekistan.
Tajikistan and ¨¨March is a good
Time southeastern time weather-wise for
Kazakhstan, and for Turkmenistan.
Central Asia time zone trekking (Jul–Sep).
(GMT/UTC plus five
hours), except giant
Kazakhstan which strad-
dles GMT/UTC (plus five
and plus six hours).
19
Websites Daily Costs Travelling Safely PL AN YOUR TRIP N eed to K n o w
Lonely Planet (www.lonely Budget ¨¨Watch for pickpockets
planet.com) The Central Asia US$15-–5 in crowded bazaars or bus
branch of the Thorn Tree forum ¨¨US$25–45 in Kazakhstan stations.
is the place for news on visas, ¨¨Homestay: US$10–20 per ¨¨Avoid police and security
border crossings and more. person with two meals officials whenever possible
Caravanistan (www.caravani ¨¨Chaikhana meal: US$3–5 (especially in Uzbekistan).
stan.com) Peerless online travel ¨¨Horse hire in Kyrgyzstan: ¨¨Make sure your documents
guide to the region. US$15 and permits are watertight at
all times.
Oriental Express Central Asia Midrange ¨¨At night don’t get into a taxi
(www.orexca.com) Virtual travel US$25–80 with more than one person in it.
guide from a local travel agency. ¨¨B&B in Bukhara or For more information on safe
EurasiaNet (www.eurasianet. Samarkand: US$20–40 travel, see p474.
org) News and cultural articles, ¨¨Double room in a midrange
with resource pages for each hotel: US$30–80 (US$50–130 Getting Around
country. in Kazakhstan)
Pamirs.org (www.pamirs.org) Transport in Central Asia is rela-
Definitive travel and historical Top End tively convenient and abundant
guide to the Pamir region More than US$80 in the plains but much patchier
in Tajikistan from Robert ¨¨Double room in a four-star in the mountains.
Middleton. hotel: US$100
Discovery Central Asia (www. ¨¨Tour in Turkmenistan: Train High-speed modern trains
centralasia.travel) Interesting US$100–150 per person per run to Samarkand and Bukhara
articles and cultural details from day in small group. in Uzbekistan and between Al-
across Central Asia. maty and Astana in Kazakhstan.
Don’t Forget Long-distance rail services are
Important less comfortable but a com-
Numbers ¨¨A sun hat, sunglasses and mon way to get around huge
suncream for strong desert Kazakhstan.
Police %02 and mountain sun.
Ambulance % 03 ¨¨The latest government Bus Fairly reliable and comfort-
travel warnings (p475), and a able coaches run between major
Opening Hours small pinch of salt. cities but comfort, reliability and
¨¨Sleeping bag and water frequency plummet rapidly in
Banks and offices 9am–noon purification if headed into the rural areas.
and 1–5pm Monday to Friday, mountains of Kyrgyzstan and
possibly 9am–noon Saturday. Tajikistan. Shared taxi The best way to get
Exchange offices keep longer ¨¨A Russian phrasebook and a around Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan
hours, including weekends. paperback novel (hard to find and Uzbekistan. Pay by the seat
Museums Generally closed in Central Asia). or buy all four of them for cheap
Monday. ¨¨Mementos from home (eg car hire on set routes.
Restaurants 11am–9pm; longer postcards and photos) to break
opening hours in major cities. the ice in homestays. Hired car Useful for the
¨¨Floss – to get the mutton Pamirs and mountain areas of
out from between your teeth. Kyrgyzstan and generally priced
per kilometre.
For much more on
getting around,
see p485.
20 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
If You Like...
Silk Road Tash Rabat Caravanserai wildlife-watching and hiking.
Architecture Singularly romantic refuge for (p85)
caravans and traders, hidden in Nuratau Mountains
Nothing connects Central a high mountain valley near the Uzbekistan’s only community-
Asia to its storied past Chinese border. (p284) tourism effort offers homestays,
quite like its mosques, hiking and horse riding south of
minarets and medressas. Community-Based Lake Aidarkul. (p186)
Uzbekistan is the place for Tourism
some of the world’s great- Trekking
est Islamic architecture. CBT, Kyrgyzstan Pioneering
The Registan, Samarkand A countrywide network of home- Central Asia’s best-kept
jaw-dropping ensemble of not stays and service providers that secrets are its remote Tian
one but three medressas. Climb can arrange everything from Shan and Pamir ranges,
the corkscrew minarets for felt-making to horse trekking. hiding some of Asia’s most
views over Timur’s showcase (p247) sublime mountain trails.
city. (p171) Eastern Pamirs Yurtstays are Fan Mountains, Tajikistan
the only way to really see the Jewel-like azure blue lakes,
Kalon Minaret, Bukhara This herding communities, mountain rugged peaks and homestays
towering minaret is so impres- lakes and archaeological sites make this the region’s most
sive that it stopped Chinggis of the high Pamir mountain popular trekking spot. (p326)
(Genghis) Khan in his tracks range. (p338) Tian Shan, Kyrgyzstan Behind
800 years ago. (p192) Jizeu (Geisev) Valley, western Karakol lies a network of lush
Pamirs This network of forested alpine valleys, hidden
Shah-i-Zinda, Samarkand homestays allows hikers to trek lakes and snowcapped peaks,
Central Asia’s head-spinning to a scenic chain of mountain linked by treks of two to seven
turquoise-blue Timurid tilework lakes without the need for bulky days. (p272)
doesn’t get any better than this camping equipment or food. Khan Tengri & Inylchek
sublime street of royal tombs. (p342) Glaciers Central Asia’s most
(p173) Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature beautiful peak is set in a high
Reserve Kazakhstan’s best amphitheatre of glacier and
Ichon-Qala, Khiva An entire ecotourism project is great for rock, making it a serious moun-
walled city of royal palaces, tain adventure. (p77)
blue-tiled tombs and mud-
baked city walls, frozen in time
in the Khorezm oasis. (p205)
IF YOU LIKE... ROAD TRIPS Zailiysky Alatau, Kazakhstan
Hiking trails and short trek
Tajikistan’s Pamir Highway (p351) offers one of routes lead from the Almaty
the world’s great mountain drives, especially if you city limits through Ile-Alatau
continue over the mountains into the deserts National Park to picturesque
around Kashgar in China. Ozero Bolshoe Almatinskoe
lake. (p74)
21
JAMIE MARSHALL / GETTY IMAGES © Arslanbob Hike through walnut
forests and past waterfalls to
the Köl Mazar lakes (four days)
or Kyzyl Ünkür (seven days).
Book guides and horses through
CBT. (p288)
Bazaars PL AN YOUR TRIP I f You L ik e . . .
IVAN VDOVIN / GETTY IMAGES © Haggling for carpets, cam-
els or car parts is perhaps
the quintessential Central
Asian activity.
Osh, Kyrgyzstan The riverside
Osh Bazaar bustles every day,
but goes mad on Sunday, and is
a great place to pick up a white
Kyrgyz ak-kalpak (traditional
felt hat). (p292)
Kumtepa Bazaar, Uzbekistan
Sunday offers the best selection
of local khanatlas (tie-dyed
silks) and Uzbek white-beards
at this rollicking market 5km
outside Margilon. (p167)
Samarkand, Uzbekistan The
Siob Bazaar is the city’s most
photogenic place to stock up
on fruit and hot bread, in the
shadows of the epic ruined Bibi-
Khanym Mosque. (p179)
Carpet-shopping Bukhara
(p198), Khiva (p209) and Ashga-
bat (p382) are the best places
to invest in this quintessential
Silk Road souvenir, and don’t
forget Kyrgyz felt shyrdaks
(p277) in Kochkor.
Urgut, Uzbekistan Sunday and
Wednesday mornings are the
best times to day-trip from
Samarkand to this village
bazaar, strong on jewellery and
suzani textiles. (p181)
Andijon The Jahon Bazaar is the
biggest in the Uzbek Fergana
Valley, especially on Sunday and
Thursday. (p168)
(Top) Woman drinking tea, Urgut bazaar (p181), Uzbekistan
(Bottom) Dome of Tilla-Kari Medressa (p171), Samarkand, Uzbekistan
22
The Nomadic Life Baykonur Cosmodrome, ing the local aksakals (white
Kazakhstan Book a tour beards) over a pot of green tea,
months in advance and you a round of kebabs and a fresh
can watch a rocket blast off watermelon. (p469)
PL AN YOUR TRIP I f You L ik e . . . Yurts Stay overnight in an from Soviet cosmonaut Yuri Russian Orthodox cathedrals
authentic yurt in the high Gagarin’s former launch site. Babushkas, incense and sacred
eastern Pamirs or the pastures (p90) liturgies offer a different aspect
of Kyrgyzstan, and visit the Aral Sea The beached fishing of Central Asian religious life,
world’s only three-storey yurt boats at Moynaq (p215) in best at Tashkent’s Assumption
in Osh. (p304)
Manaschi There’s something Uzbekistan or Aralsk (p91) in Cathedral. (p146)
other-worldly about listening Kazakhstan are a fine place to Visit a Sufi shrine Make a
to a white-bearded bard recit- ponder the nature of environ- weekend visit to the Yasaui Mau-
ing the Kyrgyz national epic, mental folly. soleum in Turkistan and you’ll
Manas. It’s a direct link to the Astana Lie on a beach beside see families praying, feasting
Kyrgyz nomadic past. (p302) palm trees inside the world’s and making wishes by tying rags
Horse games Summer brings largest tent, Khan Shatyr (p98), to sacred trees. (p88)
the good life to the jailoos then head to the Presidential Opera for a song Shell out a
(summer pastures), along Cultural Centre (p103) to gawp couple of bucks for a classy
with horse races, horseback at 2000-year-old horse innards. performance of Aida or Swan
wrestling and Kyrgyz-style Darvaza Gas Craters At night Lake at Tashkent’s restored
kiss-chasy. (p306) this burning pit in the Karakum Alisher Navoi (p153) or
Eagle-hunting Real hunts desert resembles nothing less Almaty’s Abay State Opera &
(with eagles, not for eagles) than the fiery gates of Hell. It’s Ballet Theatre. (p66)
take place in winter but weird, even for Turkmenistan.
several spots in Kyrgyzstan (p384)
offer summertime displays Ashgabat A mix between Las Off the
from authentic berkutchi (eagle Vegas and Pyongyang, oddball Beaten Track
hunters). (p272) highlights here include the
Horse trek to Song-Köl The Ministry of Fairness, the world’s Central Asia’s remoter
best way to visit this lovely largest handwoven rug and the gems take some getting
mountain lake is on a horse 12m golden statue of former to but offer some of the
trek, stopping in herders’ yurts dictator Turkmenbashi. (p374) region’s most memorable
en route. Allow four days. experiences.
(p273)
Karakalpakstan Tick off the
The Weird & the Cultural ‘Stan within a Stan’ with a
Downright Odd Immersion visit to the Savitsky Museum
in Nukus, home to some of the
Central Asia supplies a dai- Banyas Sweat the day away greatest avant-garde Soviet art
ly dose of the unexpected, or indulge your inner kink with of the 1930s. (p214)
but for the really odd stuff a birch branch flogging at Mangistau Underground
head for Turkmenistan and Almaty’s Arasan Baths. (p60) mosques, necropoli and the
remoter Kazakhstan. enigmatically named ‘Valley
Chaikhana culture Nothing of Balls’ await exploration in
beats the experience of join- the deserts around Aktau in
western Kazakhstan. (p96)
IF YOU LIKE... DARK SOVIET-ERA HISTORY Desert Castles of Khorezm
Hire a car and track down the
Malinovka’s ALZhIR museum outside Astana (p71) dozen or more two-millennia-
offers an introduction to the horrors of Soviet labour old fortresses known as
camps and you can even visit a former KarLag camp Elliq-Qala that rise from the
outside Karaganda (p111). Tours of the Soviet-era Karakum desert like giant
atomic testing site at Semey (p118) are also possible: sandcastles. (p202)
bring your own Geiger counter.
23
PL AN YOUR TRIP I f You L ik e . . .
JANE SWEENEY / GETTY IMAGES ©
Ak Orda (Presidential Palace) and parliament buildings, Astana (p98), Kazakhstan
Altay Gorgeous mountain imagination, for the fol- Otrar This dusty hill changed
valleys, snowcapped peaks and lowing ruins rank as some the course of Central Asian
the myths of Shambhala are of the most pivotal histori- history when Chinggis Khan’s
the drawcards here, if you can cal sites in Asia. emissaries were murdered
get around the red tape. (p111) Afrosiab Stand in the here, plus it’s where Timur
Western Pamirs The wild and footprints of Alexander and (Tamerlane) died. (p87)
remote valleys around Khorog, view Sogdian-era murals at Gonur Depe This active
especially the Bartang Valley, the melted remains of this archaeological site in the
boast incredible scenery, home- 2500-year-old city. (p174) Margiana Oasis dates back
stays and tough treks, making Penjikent Wander the alley- to the Bronze Age and may
it a great place for mountain ways and climb the eroded have been the birthplace of
exploration. (p342) citadel at this once cosmopoli- Zoroastrianism. (p391)
tan Sogdian city. (p331) Termiz Visit Buddhist monas-
Archaeological Merv The ‘Queen of the World’ teries, Bactrian temples and
Sites boasts eight overlapping cities, Islamic shrines at Termiz, on
including the capital of the the border with Afghanistan.
Come equipped with a Seljuq Turks. (p388) (p183)
history book and your
24 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Month by Month
TOP EVENTS April z Asrlar Sadosi
Navrus, March Spring is kicking in, as Festival
Independence blooms start to appear The two-day Arslar Sadosi
Day Celebrations, in mountain foothills. (Echo of Centuries) festi-
various months Another excellent month val is held over two days
Asrlar Sadosi to visit lowland areas. in different locations in
Festival, May Uzbekistan (see www.
Roof of the World z Horse Day asrlarsadosi.com). Folk
Festival, July music, a handicrafts ba-
At Chabysh Horse Turkmenistan’s Horse Day zaar, food, fashion and
Festival, August (the last Sunday in April) displays of kuresh wres-
offers a chance for horse- tling and kopkari (buz-
March lovers to see the country’s kashi) are the draws.
famous Akhal-Teke horses
Perfect weather in the in action at hippodromes z Silk & Spices
deserts of Turkmenistan, across the country.
southern Tajikistan and Festival
Uzbekistan (towards the May Four-day cultural festival
end of the month). The in Bukhara, featuring
Karakum desert blooms It’s starting to get hot in music and dance, folk art,
like a Jackson Pollock the lowlands but can still fashion, handicrafts, exhi-
canvas. be chilly in the highlands. bitions and maybe even the
High season in Uzbekistan odd tightrope walker. It
z Navrus means you should make can be in June.
advanced hotel bookings.
Central Asia’s biggest July
festival is held round the 2 Watching Wildlife
equinox (21 March in most High summer is the time
republics and 22 March in in Kazakhstan to visit the mountains of
Kazakhstan) and marks April and May are the best Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan and
the beginning of spring months to spot Kazakh- southeast Kazakhstan.
and the Persian new year stan’s 36 species of tulip, Rich pastures bring
with games of buzkashi while May and June are herders to their summer
(traditional pololike game the time to spot hundreds camps.
played with a headless of migratory bird species,
goat), family feasts and especially at Korgalzhyn z Astana Day
funfairs. Nature Reserve (p107).
This festival on 6 July
(which just happens to
be President Nazarbaev’s
birthday) sees concerts,
fireworks, fairs and parades
in Kazakhstan’s capital city.
z Roof of the World 25
Festival on horse races, equestrian Uzbekistan, with the larg- PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month
Badakhshani music, dance, games, handicrafts and est event in Tashkent’s
film and handicrafts from Manas (Kyrgyz epic) Mustaqillik maydoni
across the region make recitals. (Independence Sq; p146).
this the mountain cultural September 9 brings
festival of the year, with z Birds of Prey similar festivities to
a stunning backdrop at Tajikistan.
Khorog in the Tajikistan Festival
Pamirs. Visit Bokonbayevo, on the October
southern shores of Issyk
z National Horse Kul lake, to see hunting Another great month in
displays with golden ea- lowland areas, with cool air
Games Festival gles, folklore music and and sunny skies, though
Kyzyl-Oi village in Kyr- traditional ceremonies. the mercury is starting to
gyzstan’s Suusamyr Valley Great for photos. Third drop in the mountains and
celebrates the summer Saturday of August. (p272) northern Kazakhstan.
pastures with games of
ulak-tartysh (buzkashi), z FourE Festival z Independence
horseback races, wrestling,
traditional music and food. This alternative lifestyle Day, Turkmenistan
It’s generally the third festival (www.ecofest.kz) October 27 and 28 bring
Saturday of July. brings together three days a two-day public holiday
of yoga, art, workshops to the desert republic,
August and ethnic and spiritual marked by military pa-
music in a different loca- rades and much pageantry,
Summer continues to tion outside Almaty each with the biggest displays
sizzle in the lowlands as year. in Ashgabat.
the mercury hits 40°C.
The good life is up in the z Independence December
mountains, with August a
great month for trekking at Day, Kyrgyzstan As Central Asia shivers in
higher altitudes. August 31 brings parades, sub-zero temperatures, the
music concerts and tradi- winter sports season kicks
3 Sharq Taronalari tional horseback games to in at ski resorts, notably
Bishkek’s hippodrome, to Chimbulak in Kazakhstan.
Music Festival celebrate the anniversary of
The ‘Melodies of the Ori- Kyrgyzstan’s independence z Independence
ent’ Festival in Samarkand, from the USSR in 1991.
Uzbekistand, hosts a col- Day, Kazakhstan
lection of 50 concerts by September Concerts, parades, confer-
Central Asian and world ences and exhibitions mark
musicians, with fantas- A great month to visit the last of the year’s Inde-
tic locations such as the almost anywhere. pendence Day celebrations
Registan as a backdrop. It’s Temperatures are still on 16 December.
held every other year (next pleasant in the highlands
one 2015). but the worst of the
summer heat is over in
z At Chabysh the oases. Markets burst
with fruit.
Horse Festival
This lively festival of horse z Independence
games in Murgab, in
Tajikistan’s eastern Pamirs, Days, Uzbekistan &
happens on the second Tajikistan
weekend in August. Count September 1 sees nation-
wide celebrations in the
capital of each region of
26 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Itineraries
RUSSIA
MONGOLIA
KAZAKHSTAN
UZBEKISTAN
Konye- Urgench #–
Urgench •# •#
AZERBAIJAN TASHKENT
Khiva •# #_ KYRGYZSTAN CHINA
TURKMENISTAN
C ASSEP AI A N Bukhara •# •#Samarkand
ASHGABAT _# •# TAJIKISTAN
Shakhrisabsz
•#
Merv
IRAN AFGHANISTAN PAKISTAN
INDIA
2WEEKS Silk Road Cities
This loop route through Uzbekistan takes in almost all of Central Asia’s greatest histori-
cal and architectural sites. Fly into Tashkent (p139) and get a feel for the big city before
taking a domestic flight to Urgench and then a short bus or taxi ride to Khiva (p203),
comfortably seen in a day. Then take a taxi for an overnight trip to one or two of the
crumbing desert cities of ancient Khorezm, around Urgench (p200).
From Urgench take the long bus or taxi ride down to Bukhara (p187), which deserves
the most time of all the Silk Road cities. Try to budget a minimum of three days to take
in the sights and explore the backstreets.
From here take the golden (actually tarmac) road to Samarkand (p169) for a day or
two. Soak in the glories of the Registan and Shah-i-Zinda and, if you have time, add on a
day trip to Shakhrisabz (p181), the birthplace of Timur (Tamerlane).
A potential add-on to this route is to tack on a few days to visit Turkmenistan, visiting
Konye-Urgench (p393) from Khiva before crossing the desert to Ashgabat (p374) and
then travelling to Bukhara via the Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar at Merv (p388).
27
RUSSIA
MONGOLIA
KAZAKHSTAN PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries
Ürümqi
•#
Almaty
AI ATNAu•#rSkHmGeTnAUbBRaAKsThMiE_#NISTANUZBBu•#EkKMhISaeTrArav•#TNASSaHmK•#aErkNaTn#_dTAJBIKIASISnHTdI•#OArKijNksoEeP•#hnsKahs_#stamc•#•#TT•#a•#KosorKKhucaYgRhsRakahGrobgtYraaZPtrSaTsAs N
AZERBAIJAN c CHINA
BAKU _# EP
C ASS
IRAN •# •# Saraghs PAKISTAN
Mashhad AFGHANISTAN
INDIA
3WEEKS Central Asia Overland: The Silk Road
Much of this itinerary follows ancient Silk Road paths and modern travellers will likely
make the same route decisions as early traders, based on cost, ease of transport and the
time of year.
Western roads into Central Asia lead from Mashhad in Iran to Ashgabat in Turkmeni-
stan, or from Baku in Azerbaijan (by boat) to Turkmenbashi, also in Turkmenistan. If
you only have a transit visa for Turkmenistan you can travel from Mashhad to Mary (to
visit the Unesco World Heritage–listed ruins of Merv) in one long day via the crossing at
Saraghs, giving you more time at Merv and bypassing Ashgabat.
From Ashgabat (p374) the overland route leads to Merv (p388) and the Silk Road
cities of Bukhara (p187), Samarkand (p169) and Tashkent (p139). Figure on at least
three full days in Bukhara and two full days each in Samarkand and Tashkent, prefer-
ably more. In Tashkent take a ride on the grand metro, shop Chorsu Bazaar and visit the
History Museum and Fine Arts Museum of Uzbekistan, two of Central Asia’s best.
From Tashkent head into the Fergana Valley and swing north along the mountain
road to relaxed Bishkek (p232). From Bishkek cross the border into Kazakhstan to
cosmopolitan Almaty (p56), visit the sights, attend the opera and make some excursions
from the city before taking the train (or bus) to Ürümqi in China.
An alternative from Bishkek is to arrange transport through an agency to take
you over the dramatic Torugart Pass (p310), visiting the summer pastures around
Kochkor (p276) and Song-Köl and the photogenic caravanserai at Tash Rabat (p284),
before crossing the pass to Kashgar. You can then continue along the northern or
southern Silk Roads into China proper.
A third alternative if you are in a hurry is to travel from Tashkent (p139) to Andijon
(p168) in the Fergana Valley, cross the border to the bustling bazaar town of Osh (p289)
and then take a bus, or a combination of bus and taxi, into the high and scenic Alay
Valley and over the remote Irkeshtam Pass (p310) to Kashgar.
28
KAZAKHSTAN
Almaty Charyn
•# •#Canyon
•# Karakol
PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries BISHKEK _# Issyk-Köl •# Altyn Arashan
KYRGYZSTAN Kochkor •# CHINA
Song-Köl •# Naryn
UZBEKISTAN Tash Rabat •#
Chatyr-Köl
c
Torugart Pass
•# Kashgar
TAJIKISTAN
3WEEKS Over the Torugart: Lakes, Herders &
Caravanserais
This trip takes in fabulous mountain scenery, a taste of traditional life in the pastures
and the roller-coaster ride over the Torugart Pass to Kashgar. There are lots of opportu-
nities for trekking or horse riding on this route.
Kick off with a couple of days in cosmopolitan Almaty (p56), with visits to Panfilov
Park, the Central State Museum and a soak in the Arasan Baths. From here it’s an easy
four-hour drive to Kyrgyzstan’s capital Bishkek (p232), from where you can head east to
the blue waters and sandy beaches of Issyk-Köl, the world’s second-largest alpine lake.
For an adventurous alternative between Almaty and Issyk-Köl, hire transport to take
you to the colourful, eroded Charyn Canyon (p77) and on to the Kyrgyz border through
the immense, silent Karkara Valley to Karakol.
Take in a couple of days’ trekking or visiting the alpine valleys around Karakol
(p258). The idyllic valley of Altyn Arashan (p265) offers great scope for horse riding or
the short trek to alpine Ala-Köl and the glorious Karakol Valley. If you have time you can
explore the little-visited southern shore, visiting an eagle-hunter en route to Kochkor. If
you are low on time head straight to Kochkor from Bishkek.
In small and sleepy Kochkor (p276) take advantage of the community-based tourism
(CBT) program and spend some time in a yurt- or homestay on the surrounding jailoos
(summer pastures). This is one of the best ways to glimpse traditional life in Kyrgyzstan.
Try to allow three days to link a couple of yurtstays by horse, although most can be
visited in an overnight trip. The most popular trip is to the herders’ camps around the
peaceful lake Song-Köl (p273), either by car or on a two-day horseback trip. The pas-
tures are popular with herders and their animals between June and August.
From here head to Naryn (p280) and then the Silk Road caravanserai of Tash Rabat
(p284), where you can stay overnight in yurts and even take an adventurous horse trip to
a pass overlooking Chatyr-Köl. From Tash Rabat it’s up over the Torugart Pass (p310)
and into China to wonderful Kashgar for it’s epic Sunday Market.
29
KAZAKHSTAN
KYRGYZSTAN
PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries
Oybek •# Osh c
•#
UZBEKISTAN •# Khojand Sary Tash •# •# Kashgar
•#Istaravshan CHINA
Samarkand Sary Mogol •#
•# Irkeshtam
Pass
Penjikent •#
Iskander-Kul Kara-Kul
DUSHANBE _# TAJIKISTAN •# Murgab
Khorog •# Langar Wakhan Valley
AFGHANISTAN •# PAKISTAN
3WEEKS To Osh via the Pamir Highway
This wild three-week jaunt ranks as one of the world’s most beautiful and remote moun-
tain road trips and is not one to rush. Hire a vehicle for at least part of the way and do
the drives in daylight.
There are several options to get to Penjikent (p331). If the border crossing between
Samarkand and Penjikent has reopened, this is your best option. Otherwise, fly from
Dushanbe, or cross into Tajikistan from Uzbekistan at Bekabad, transit through
Khojand (p335) and continue through Istaravshan (p334) by shared taxi over the
Shakhristan Pass.
In Penjikent you can check out the Sogdian-era archaeological site and then either
hire a car for a day trip up to the Marguzor Lakes or arrange a taxi through the moun-
tains to scenic lake Iskander-Kul (p326).
Continue the taxi ride through stunning vertical scenery to Tajikistan’s mellow
capital Dushanbe (p316), where you should budget a couple of days to arrange the
flight, shared 4WD or hired car for the long but impressive trip along the Afghan
border to Khorog (p343) in Gorno-Badakhshan.
You can drive from Khorog to Murgab in a day, but there are lots of interesting de-
tours here, especially the beautiful Wakhan Valley (p348) and its storybook Yamchun
and Abrashim forts. With hired transport, you can cut from Langar (p350) to the Pamir
Highway and continue to Murgab.
There are loads of side trips to be made from Murgab (p353), so try to budget a few
days here to visit a local yurt camp in the surrounding high pastures. Headed north,
Kara-Kul (p356) is a scenic highlight and worth at least a lunch stop or picnic. Once
over the border in Kyrgyzstan, at Sary Tash (p296), it’s worth detouring 40km to Sary
Mogol (p296) for its fine views of towering Peak Lenin (Ibn Sina).
From here you can continue over the mountains to the Silk Road bazaar town of Osh
(p289) or better still exit Central Asia via the Irkeshtam Pass (p310) to Kashgar, China.
30
RUSSIA
ASTANA _# Rakhmanovskie
Klyuchi
Karaganda•#
KAZAKHSTAN
–#Ust-Kamenogo•#rsk •#
PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries
MONGOLIA
AZERBAIJAN UZBEKISTAN STauurkraiSOsnThtt•A#aryanmSr•#H•#keKAnNEtk•#_#aNstu#÷uT-rZ÷#eSNhaRaayetbrisaaoegmnryKva-lYelUyRPgGaaYrmkZST•#AANl•#mLABaatolmyklseahtoienskoe CHINA
CASPIAN TURKMENISTAN
SEA TAJIKISTAN
IRAN AFGHANISTAN PAKISTAN
INDIA
3WEEKS Kazakhstan: South to North
This Kazakh taster takes you from Central Asia into sub-Siberian northern Kazakhstan.
From Tashkent (p139) it’s a half-day trip across the border to vibrant Shymkent (p81),
with its Central Asian–style bazaars and chaikhanas (teahouses).
From here detour west to Turkistan (p87) to soak up Kazakhstan’s only architectural
masterpiece, the blue-domed 14th-century Timurid tomb of Kozha Akhmed Yasaui.
Keep the historical vibe going with a side trip to the nearby ruined Silk Road city of
Sauran (p89) and a visit south to Otrar (p87), the spot where Chinggis (Genghis)
Khan’s troops first attacked Central Asia and where Timur breathed his last.
Back in Shymkent stock up on some supplies before heading out for some rural hiking,
horse riding and tulip-spotting at Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Reserve (p85) or Sayram-
Ugam National Park (p86), both of which have homestays and ecotourism programs.
An overnight ‘Silk Road by rail’ train trip will drop you in Almaty, Kazakhstan’s larg-
est city. There is plenty to do here, including visiting the iconic Scythian-era Golden Man,
before hitting Central Asia’s most active club scene. Walk off the next day’s hang-over on a
hike to Bolshoe Almatinskoe Lake (p73), set in the lovely spurs of the Tian Shan.
From Almaty take the high-speed overnight train to the gritty coal city of
Karaganda (p108). Touch Soviet-era rocket parts at the excellent Ecological Museum
and then take a sobering day trip to visit the former gulags at Dolinka and Spassk.
Just a few hours away across the steppe is the modern capital of Astana (p98).
After oggling the bizarre mix of architecture you can visit the Oceanarium and guess
how far you are from the nearest sea (1700km).
Plenty of international flights serve Astana but to continue exploring take a flight to
Ust-Kamenogorsk (p112) and then a long drive to Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi (p111) to
start some fabulous hikes or horse treks through the valleys of the Altay, with views of
mystical Mt Belukha. You’ll need to arrange a tour a month or more in advance to get
the required permits.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 31
Plan Your Trip
Visas & Permits
Visas and permits can be the single biggest headache associated
with travel in ex-Soviet Central Asia. Collecting visas for a multi-
country trip through Central Asia can take months and cost
hundreds of US dollars. Visa regulations are getting easier every
year but our best advice remains ‘start early and do your research’.
Visas Visas at a Glance
The good news is that the visa situation Kazakhstan
in Central Asia is much easier than just
a couple of years ago. Single-entry tour- No Letter of Invitation (LOI) needed for 30- or 60-
ist visas of up to 30 days for all countries day tourist visas for most nationalities; visas are
except Turkmenistan are now a relative date-specific; no extensions possible; registration
formality for most nationalities, with no required if entering the country overland. (p131)
need for the once notoriously pesky let-
ter of invitation (LOI). Kyrgyzstan offers Uzbekistan
visa-free travel for most nationalities and
Kazakhstan and Tajikistan might follow No LOI needed for US citizens and most European
suit. It’s even possible to get a visa on ar- nationalities for visas up to 30 days; visas are
rival at most airports, as long as you have date-specific; extensions difficult but possible
arranged this in advance with a travel through a travel agency. (p225)
agency. Only Turkmenistan requires you
to jump through some serious logistical Kyrgyzstan
hoops, including booking a guided tour.
The easiest: visa-free for most nationalities for
The steps to obtain a visa and the atten- stays of up to 60 days for both air and land entry;
tion it gets after you arrive differ for each extensions possible, or simply leave and re-enter
republic, but their outlines are similar. the country; no registration for tourists. (p309)
Applying for a Visa Tajikistan
Visa applications can be made in per- No LOI needed for tourist visas; visas are date-
son or via post at most of the republics’ specific; extensions possible but tricky; visa-free
overseas embassies or consulates. If your program planned; no registration needed for tour-
country doesn’t have Central Asian rep- ist visas under 45 days; registration for private
resentation you’ll have to courier your visas required and expensive. (p367)
passport to the nearest embassy, arrange
a visa on arrival, or arrange your itinerary Turkmenistan
to get the visa in another Central Asian
republic or elsewhere en route. The hardest: tourist visas only possible with
expensive pre-booked tour; three- to five-day
Embassies will want the following transit visas possible with fixed dates and entry/
documents: exit points. (p405)
32
¨¨a photocopy of the validity and personal that republic (and that it’s a double- or
information pages of your passport (some multiple-entry visa).
Uzbekistan embassies require a copy of all
passport pages!) Even the most helpful Central Asian em-
bassies in the West normally take a week
to issue a visa. Many embassies will speed
¨¨anywhere between one and three passport- the process up for an express fee (often
size photos double the normal fee). Central Asian em-
bassies within the Commonwealth of Inde-
PL AN YOUR TRIP V is a s & P e r m its ¨¨a completed application form, which you can pendent States (CIS) seem to be quicker.
generally download from the embassy website.
In addition to these, you will also need: Visa payment sometimes has to be in
a neighbouring bank, not the embassy
¨¨at least six months validity in your passport itself, and you’ll need to bring back the
and two clean pages receipt as proof of payment.
¨¨proof of onward transport (for a transit visa)
Visas can be quite expensive, especially
for US citizens who routinely pay much
With the exception of Turkmenistan, visas more for their visas than other nationali-
do not list the towns to be visited. The ties (retaliation for the fees the US govern-
tourist-visa application for Turkmenistan ment charges Central Asian visa appli-
requires you to list the name of every town cants). Budget a couple of hundred dollars
you want to visit, and most of these places, for a multi-’stan trip.
excluding the capital, will be printed on
your visa. Try to allow time for delays and screw-
ups. Errors do happen – check the dates
Bear in mind that most visas have and other information on your visa care-
either fixed-entry dates or fixed-validity fully before you hit the road, and try to find
dates, so you will have to carefully plan out what the Cyrillic or other writing says.
the dates of your itinerary in advance. If
you are weaving in and out of republics,
eg from Uzbekistan to Tajikistan’s Pamir Letters of Invitation
Highway, Kyrgyzstan and then back to
Uzbekistan, you’ll need to ensure that the The key to getting a tourist visa for Turk-
first visa is still valid when you return to menistan or a business, longer-duration
or multiple-entry visa or a visa on ar-
rival for other republics is ‘visa support’,
GETTING CURRENT INFORMATION
Online
Central Asia visa rules change all the time. The following websites are a good option
for up-to-date visa information:
Caravanistan (www.caravanistan.com)
Thorn Tree (www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree)
Stantours (www.stantours.com)
Embassies
Central Asian embassies abroad offer comprehensive information on visas:
Kazakhstan www.kazakhembus.com; www.kazconsulny.org; www.
kazembassy.org.uk; also www.mfa.gov.kz/en
Kyrgyzstan www.kgembassy.org; www.kyrgyz-embassy.org.uk;
www.botschaft-kirgisien.de
Tajikistan www.tjus.org; www.tajikembassy.be; www.tajembassy.org.uk;
www.botschaft-tadschikistan.de
Turkmenistan www.turkmenistanembassy.org; www.turkmenembassy.org.uk
Uzbekistan www.uzbekconsulny.org; www.uzbekistan.org; www.uzbekistan.de;
www.uzbekembassy.org; www.ouzbekistan.fr (in French)
33
which means a Letter of Invitation (LOI), fines associated with bringing you back PL AN YOUR TRIP V is a s & P e r m its
approved by the Ministries of Foreign if your papers aren’t in order. Try to get a
Affairs and/or Interior, from a private visa in advance if possible.
individual, company or state organisation
in the country you want to visit. After Getting Central Asian Visas
obtaining ministry approval, your spon- in Central Asia
sor (normally a travel agent) sends the
invitation to you, and when you apply at a If you are on a long overland trip it’s
consular office for your visa it is matched possible to get your Central Asia visas
with a copy sent directly to them from en route in Central Asia, as long as you
the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. don’t mind hanging around the Central
Asian capitals for a few days (or even
The cheapest way to get a visa invita- weeks) and spending a lot of time in visa
tion is directly through a Central Asian queues. Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) is a good
travel agency, many of whom will sell you place to load up on Central Asian visas.
a letter of visa support for between US$30
and US$100. Stantours (www.stantours.com) However, it’s generally best to get a
is one agency that is frequently recom- visa in your home country when possible.
mended. A few Western travel agencies
can arrange visa invitations but charge up Transit & Multiple-Entry
to five times the local fee. Visas
Try to apply for letters of invitation Even if you are just passing through
a month, or preferably two months, in a republic (eg flying into Almaty and
advance. Individual sponsors may need transferring overland to Bishkek) you
months to get their invitations approved will need a transit visa.
before they can even be sent to you.
You might also need transit visas for
Visas on Arrival some trips even if you’re not stopping in
the country. For example, you will need
If there’s no convenient embassy in your a Kazakh transit visa to take the bus or
country, you can get a visa on arrival train from Tashkent in Uzbekistan to
at Astana and Almaty (in Kazakhstan), Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan, or to take the
Dushanbe (Tajikistan) and Ashgabat train from Moscow to Tashkent, as both
(Turkmenistan) airports, but normally routes pass through Kazakhstan.
only if you have a LOI and have arranged
this in advance with your agency. Some You may also need a re-entry visa (or
reports suggest that you can now get a multiple-entry visa) to get back into the
visa on arrival in Dushanbe without an first country if your bus or train dips
LOI, though this not recommended. A temporarily into a neighbouring republic
visa on arrival at Tashkent (Uzbekistan) (most likely in remote parts of the Fer-
is possible (with an LOI) but only if gana Valley).
you come from a country without an
Uzbekistan embassy. Visa-free entry at Train trips can be particularly tricky.
Bishkek and Osh airports in Kyrgyzstan New routings mean that you no longer
make these the easiest fly-in options. need a Turkmen transit visa to take
the Uzbek train between Tashkent and
Responsible sponsors and agencies Urgench. Less convenient connections
send representatives to meet their in- such as Tashkent to the Fergana Valley
vitees at the airport and smooth their by train (which requires a Tajik transit
way through immigration. Even so, visa and a double-entry Uzbek visa) are
consular officials at the airport can be worth avoiding.
notoriously hard to find, especially if
your flight arrives in the middle of the Visa Extensions
night, and they may not be able to find
your records scribbled in their big black Extending an ordinary tourist visa
book. after you arrive is relatively easy in
Kyrgyzstan, a bureaucratic tussle in
You may also need to persuade the Tajikistan and Uzbekistan and almost
airline that you are guaranteed a visa impossible in Kazakhstan and Turkmen-
as many are keen to avoid the costs and istan. Travel agencies can normally help
PL AN YOUR TRIP V is a s & P e r m its34 ¨¨Areas in Kazakhstan near the Chinese
border, including the Altay mountains in the
CHINESE VISAS IN northeast and areas close to Mt Khan Tengri in
CENTRAL ASIA the southeast, require special permits that can
take up to 45 days to procure.
Chinese visas are a real pain to ¨¨Baykonur Cosmodrome in Kazakhstan can
organise in Central Asia, with most only be visited on tours organised through
Chinese embassies now demanding agencies. You need to start the paperwork
a LOI, a letter from your employ- process at least one month before your visit.
ers and even bank statements. The ¨¨Visits to the Semipalatinsk Polygon nuclear-
Chinese embassies in Almaty (Ka- testing site and its command town Kurchatov
zakhstan) and Dushanbe (Tajikistan) (both in Kazakhstan) need to be organised
do not issue visas to non-residents. through tour agencies or Kazakhstan’s
Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) and Tashkent National Nuclear Centre.
(Uzbekistan) are better places to ¨¨In Kyrgyzstan any place within 50km of
try. The best advice is to get a Chi- the Chinese border and not an open border
nese visa before you set off, though crossing (such as the Inylchek Glacier, Alay
remember that you must normally Valley and Peak Lenin) requires a military
enter China within 90 days of your border permit that is fairly easy to obtain
visa being issued. through a trekking agency.
¨¨The Gorno-Badakhshan (GBAO) region of
and are your best bet but will charge a Tajikistan needs a separate permit, which you
fee. You may find it easier to travel to a can get at most embassies abroad (Bishkek is a
neighbouring republic and arrange an- good choice) or in Dushanbe in a day.
other tourist visa.
Travel Permits Turkmenistan presents a more complicat-
ed picture, as much of the country outside
Visiting some border or strategic areas the main cities (restricted border regions)
requires additional permits, some easy to has to be listed on your visa for you to be
obtain, others of which will require travel able to visit it. You’ll need a travel agency
agency support and several weeks of to get the visa in the first place, so your
planning. The most common destinations visa acts as your permit.
requiring permits include:
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 35
Plan Your Trip
Border Crossings
Whether kicking back on a Silk Road train trip between Kazakhstan
and China or opting for an adventurous mountain crossing to Kash-
gar, the good news is that some of Central Asia’s border crossings
rank as regional highlights. Others, unfortunately, can be a chaotic,
tiresome nightmare. Avoid the pitfalls with some pre-planning and
the following advice.
Border Crossings Most Scenic Border Crossings
to/from Central Asia
Ishkashim, Wakhan Valley (p367)
Central Asia is like a giant colander, (Afghanistan–Tajikistan)
pierced by a huge range of border cross- Torugart Pass (p310)
ings, from snowy mountain passes to (Kyrgyzstan–China)
desert crossings, ferries across the Caspian Irkeshtam Pass (p310)
Sea to bridges over the Oxus River. (Kyrgyzstan–China)
When crossing international borders to Most Remote Border
or from Central Asia, you essentially have
the choice of using international through Temirbaba (p133)
transport or using separate local trans- (Turkmenistan–Kazakhstan)
port on either side of the border. Through
services such as the train or bus service Biggest Border Headache
between Almaty (Kazakhstan) and Ürümqi
(China) are convenient. The main down- Torugart Pass (p310)
side is that you often have to wait for hours (Kyrgyzstan–China)
at the border as a whole bus or train load
of passengers go through immigration and Newest Border Crossing
customs. Most passengers are local traders
and so have giant bags that customs offic- Qolma (Kulma) Pass (p367)
ers root around in until they find a bribe. (Tajikistan–China), so new that it’s not
actually open yet, though it is planned.
At most other borders you’ll arrange a
bus, taxi or shared taxi to the border, go Currently Closed
through border formalities on both sides,
and then arrange onward transport on the Penjikent (p368)
other side. It’s only tricky if there’s a gap of (Uzbekistan–Tajikistan)
no-man’s land that you have to cross, such Karamyk/Jirgital (p368)
as at the Irkeshtam Pass in Kyrgyzstan. (Kyrgyzstan–Tajikistan)
Note that there are dozens of crossings
between Russia and Kazakhstan; see p134
for an overview of these.
36
PL AN YOUR TRIP B or d e r C rossin g s Border Crossings Within ¨¨Bring small bills to change money at the
Central Asia border and if you are unsure of the rate only
change as much as you need to get you to the
Central Asian republics share some ex- nearest town, as rates are often lower at the
tremely convoluted borders. During the border.
Soviet era most of these existed on paper ¨¨It’s a good idea to isolate the $50 bill you
only but in recent years they have solidi- want to change before arriving at the border,
fied into full international crossings so so you don’t have to go digging around your
make sure you have the necessary visas. money belt on the border and watch all your
hundred dollar bills spill out onto the floor.
Except for a few transborder connec- ¨¨Make sure you go through customs and get
tions between Kazakhstan and Kyr- a customs form on arrival. This is especially
gyzstan, there’s little through transport important when entering Uzbekistan, where
between republics these days, so at most you should declare all your money and fill out
crossings you’ll have to take a bus, taxi two customs forms to avoid trouble later.
or shared taxi to/from the border, walk ¨¨Some borders are open 24 hours, others
across the border and arrange onward close at dusk. Aim to cross before mid-
transport on the other side. Shared taxis afternoon to ensure onward transport.
run to and from most borders from the ¨¨If crossing to China, avoid crossing on the
nearest town. Transport is generally only public holidays of either country (or even
a problem at the most remote crossings. Russia for the Torugart).
¨¨Chinese national holidays fall on 1 January,
Borders between the Central Asia re- 8 March, 1 July, 1 August, the spring festival
publics are subject to political tensions (some time in February) and the weeks
and can close suddenly in the event following the major holidays of 1 May and 1
of demonstrations or violence. The October.
Uzbekistan–Tajikistan border is par- ¨¨Russian national holidays fall on 1 and 7
ticularly susceptible to closure so check January, 8 March, 1 and 9 May, 12 June and 7
before hand. November.
¨¨Beware that some international border
General Tips crossings are closed at the weekend.
¨¨If crossing a border on a train, bus or,
¨¨You’ll likely have to change money at the especially, boat bring enough food and water
borders. Most don’t have formal exchange for potential delays at the border.
booths so you may have to change with ¨¨In general always be patient, friendly and
moneychangers. Check rates at banks in the calm at borders.
nearest towns before making a crossing.
37
MAJOR BORDER CROSSINGS INTO CENTRAL ASIA
BORDER CROSSING MEANS OF COMMENTS PL AN YOUR TRIP B or d e r C rossin g s
TRANSPORT
1 Iran– Gaudan/Bajgiran car From Mashhad to Ashgabat; change
(p405) car/rail transport at the border.
Turkmenistan Saraghs boat
(p405) taxi The best bet if you want to head
2 Iran– Turkmenbashi bus straight for Mary/Merv.
(p385)
Turkmenistan rail 12 to 18 hours on an unreliable cargo
Qolma (Kulma) bus boat. Try to upgrade to a cabin when
3 Azerbaijan– Pass (p367) car on board.
Turkmenistan Khorgos taxi/bus Technically opened in 2013 but
(p132) taxi travellers currently not allowed to
4 China– cross. Check in advance.
Dostyk/Alashankou
Tajikistan (p132) Direct sleeper buses run from Yining
(12 hours) and Ürümqi (24 hours) to
5 China– Maykapshagay/ Almaty, or take the new train to the
Jeminay (Jimunai) border and then a bus on to Yining
Kazakhstan (p132) in China.
Torugart Pass
6 China– (p310) Twice-weekly direct trains between
Almaty and Ürümqi take 31 hours
Kazakhstan Irkeshtam Pass and cost US$125.
(p310)
7 China– Little-used crossing but direct
Friendship Bridge buses between Ürümqi and Ust-
Kazakhstan Termiz/Hayratan Kamenogorsk.
(p226)
8 China– Ishkashim Tricky to arrange and relatively
(p367) expensive as you must hire your own
Kyrgyzstan transport in advance on both sides.
Aktau Closed weekends.
9 China– (p133)
Twice-weekly bus between Kashgar
Kyrgyzstan and Osh (US$85) or take a taxi.
Closed weekends.
10 Uzbekistan–
Security is a concern on the Afghan
Afghanistan side. One hour from Mazar-e-Sharif.
11 Tajikistan– taxi Incredibly scenic; for access to
Afghanistan’s Wakhan Valley. Time a
Afghanistan crossing with the Saturday trans-
border market.
12 Azerbaijan–
boat Passenger-carrying cargo boat with
Kazakhstan no fixed schedule goes roughly once
a week in summer, once every two
weeks in winter; takes 18 hours or
more.
PL AN YOUR TRIP B or d e r C rossin g s38 CHERNYAEVKA
(Uzbekistan–Kazakhstan) No
Border Crossings through transport, onward shared taxi
or marshrutka transport to Shymkent
OYBEK and Tashkent. (pp 133, 226)
(Uzbekistan–Tajikistan) The best
option for northern Tajikistan. The RUSSIA
nearby Bekabad crossing is not open
to foreigners. (p226)
TAZHEN
(Kazakhstan–Uzbekistan) Remote
desert road and rail crossing between
Beyneu and Kungrad, used by trains
from Russia to Tashkent. (p133)
SHAVAT/DASHOGUS KAZAKHSTAN
(Turkmenistan–Uzbekistan) The best
option between Khiva and Dashogus/ #+
Konye-Urgench. From Nukus take the
less-used alternative further west via 12 #+
Hojeli. (p406)
#+ Hojeli
TEMIRBABA/GARABOGAZ
(Turkmenistan–Kazakhstan) #+
Extremely remote, partially dirt track
between Zhanaozen and Turkmen- #+ T
bashi, with 4WDs (and maybe soon
trains) making the 10-hour trip. 3 #+ UZBEKISTAN
(pp 133, 406)
TURKMENISTAN #+
FARAB/ALAT
(Turkmenistan–Uzbekistan) G#+udurolom ASHGABAT #+
Turkmenabat to Bukhara, requires a
10-minute walk across no-man's land. _ 10
US$12–14 entry tax into Turkmenistan
must be paid in US dollars. (p406) #+ 1 #+ Serkhetabat
#+ 2
IRAN
AFGHANISTAN
PENJIKENT DENAU/TURSANZADE
(Uzbekistan–Tajikistan) Useful
(Uzbekistan–Tajikistan) Currently crossing if headed from southern
closed due to political tensions. Uzbekistan to Dushanbe. (pp 227, 368)
Check in advance.
:
39
e# 0 800 km
0 500 miles
KANIBODOM Border Crossings to/from PL AN YOUR TRIP B or d e r C rossin g s
Central Asia (See table p37)
(Tajikistan–Uzbekistan) Quiet 1 Gaudan/Bajgiran
crossing between Khojand and 2 Saraghs
Kokand in the Fergana Valley. (p368) 3 Turkmenbashi
4 Qolma (Kulma) Pass
KORDAY 5 Khorgos
6 Dostyk/Alashankou
(Kyrgyzstan–Kazakhstan) The main 7 Maykapshagay/Jeminay (Jimunai)
crossing between Bishkek and 8 Torugart Pass
Almaty, so can be busy with traders. 9 Irkeshtam Pass
Plenty of public transport, including 10 Friendship Bridge Termiz/Hayratan
direct through transport. (p132) 11 Ishkashim
12 Aktau
_ ASTANA MONGOLIA
7 +# KARKARA
+# Tacheng
6 +# (Kazakhstan–Kyrgyzstan) Scenic
summer-only option between Kegen
and Tüp reopened in 2013. Hire a car
or makes a good bike ride. (pp 77, 311)
5 +# UCHKURGON
Chaldybar _+#BISHKEK +# (Uzbekistan–Kyrgyzstan) Minor
crossing that offers a shortcut to
Taraz +# +# Namangan if you're not visiting Osh.
Little public transport here. (p226)
T+#AS_H+#K_E+#NT+#+#TAJIK+#IKS+#YT+#RAGN+#Y98Z+#S#WCTuuAs#IHqmtNioeammiz(iUiswgl&rueaiktICmiCouhnmsatPitogo)mrsatstio&n Post
+# DUSHANBE DOSTYK/DUSTLYK
+# 4
(Uzbekistan–Kyrgyzstan) The most
+# +# 11 CHINA reliable crossing between Andijon
Panj-e-Payon/ and Osh, with plenty of local transport
Shir Khan Bandar but subject to political tensions. The
nearby Khanabad crossing to Jalal-
Abad is less reliable. (pp 226, 311)
INDIA External boundaries shown reflect the requirements of
the Government of India. Some boundaries may not
PAKISTAN
be those recognised by neighbouring countries.
BATKEN/ISFARA Lonely Planet always tries to show on maps where
(Tajikistan–Kyrgyzstan) Relaxed
crossing for Kyrgyzstan's southern travellers may need to cross a boundary
arm. (pp 298, 299, 368) (and present documentation) irrespective of any dispute.
BORDÖBO :
:
(Tajikistan–Kyrgyzstan) Scenic high
pass on the Pamir Highway; freezing :
in winter with snow possible even in :
June. Need a GBAO permit to enter
Tajikistan. Little public transport.
(pp 311, 356)
:::
40 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Plan Your Trip
Activities
The soaring peaks, rolling pasturelands and desert tracts of Central
Asia offer some of Asia’s finest active adventures. Make like the
Kazakh hordes on a horse trek across the Tian Shan, explore the
Pamirs on foot like the first Russian Imperial explorers, or cycle the
Silk Road along some of the world’s most scenic roads.
Best Places in Trekking & Hiking
Central Asia for...
Central Asia is not only one of the
Trekking world’s great trekking destinations but
also one of its best-kept secrets.
Tian Shan, Kyrgyzstan (p272) Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan and southeastern
Pamirs, Tajikistan (p338) Kazakhstan hold the cream of the moun-
Fan Mountains, Tajikistan (p326) tain scenery, thanks to the outrageously
scenic spurs of the Tian Shan and Pamir
Horse Trekking ranges.
Kochkor, central Kyrgyzstan (p276) With many established routes and
Geok-Dere, Turkmenistan (p377) excellent trekking companies to offer
support, Kyrgyzstan is probably the best
Biking republic for budget trekking. Treks here
have the added bonus of adding on a
Pamir Highway, Tajikistan (p351) visit to an eagle hunter or a night or two
in a yurt en route.
Camel Trekking
Tajikistan packs a double whammy,
Uzbekistan (p137) with the Fan Mountains in the west and
Eastern Pamirs, Tajikistan (p338) high Pamirs in the east. The former of-
fers a wide range of route options and
Bird Watching difficulties, passing dozens of turquoise
lakes. Treks in the Pamirs are more
Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve, Kazakhstan (p107) hardcore and anyone but the most expe-
rienced trekkers will really need some
Winter Sports kind of professional support for these
remote, demanding routes.
Chimbulak & Medeu, outside Almaty,
Kazakhstan (p71) In Kazakhstan, the mountains south
of Almaty conceal some great mountain
Mountaineering scenery just an hour’s drive from the
city, though sadly the transborder treks
Ala-Archa National Park, Kyrgyzstan (p250) to Lake Issyk-Köl in Kyrgyzstan are now
Peak Lenin, Kyrgyzstan (p297) off limits due to border restrictions.
Other less-visited regions in Kazakhstan
include the Altay Mountains in the far
northeast.
41
For more off-the-beaten-track treks in for trekking in Central Asia. The vari- PL AN YOUR TRIP Act i v i t i es
Kyrgyzstan, try the three-day trek from ous branches of CBT in Kyrgyzstan can
Sokuluk Canyon to Suusamyr Valley; put you in touch with a general guide,
from the Shamsy Valley south of Tokmok though for someone with a guaranteed
to yurtstays at Sarala-Saz; or from knowledge of mountain routes you are
Kyzyl-Oi to Köl-Tör lake. Another option better off arranging this with a trekking
is the trek from Chong-Kemin Valley to agency. Trekking and horse guides are
Grigorievka or to Jasy-Köl and back; ar- available for around US$20 to US$35
range horses in Kaindy. through community-tourism programs
in the Fan Mountains.
In Tajikistan there are several in-
teresting short trekking routes in the There are lots of competent trekking
western Pamirs that combine trekking agencies in Central Asia that can ar-
with rural homestays, including at Bod- range a full service trek. See the various
omdara and Rivak. entries in the main republic chapters for
details. Treks organised through local
What Kind of Trek? trekking agencies cost from US$50 per
person per day, far cheaper than inter-
Self-supported trekking is possible but national companies.
not always easy in Central Asia. There
are no trekking lodges and few porters, When to Go
so you will have to carry all your own
food for the trek. Public transport to The best walking season is June to Sep-
the trailheads can be patchy, slow and tember, but be ready for bad weather
uncomfortable so it’s generally worth at any time. Most high-altitude treks or
shelling out the extra money for a taxi. climbs take place in July or August; lower
Some trekking areas are at the junction areas can be scorching hot during these
of several republics, requiring you to months.
carry multiple simultaneous visas and
a fistful of different currencies. It’s pos- Trekking Permits &
sible to hire donkeys at many trailheads Problems
(eg in the Fan Mountains) and hire
horses in Kyrgyzstan (for around US$10 Permits are needed for some border
per day) and the Tajikistan Pamirs areas of Kazakhstan, including the
(US$20 per day). Organisations like CBT central Tian Shan and the Altay region.
in Kyrgyzstan, and META and PECTA These take up to 45 days to procure so
in Tajikistan can often offer logistical
support. USEFUL WEBSITES
There is some outdoor gear for sale in www.trekkinginthepamirs.com
Bishkek and Almaty. You can also hire Trekking in the Pamirs and Zeraf-
simple tents, sleeping bags and stoves shan regions.
from Karakol, Arslanbob and Bishkek in www.pamirs.org/trekking.htm
Kyrgyzstan and in Penjikent and Khorog Great trekking section on this excel-
in Tajikistan, but in general you are lent website, with other sections on
always much better off bringing your cycling and rafting.
own gear. A multifuel (petrol) stove is www.kac.centralasia.kg Kyr-
most useful, though you will need to gyz Alpine Club for climbing and
clean the burners regularly as local fuel expeditions.
is of extremely poor quality. Camping www.pamirs.wordpress.com Bit
gas canisters are generally available in dated but still useful blog on kayak-
Karakol. ing Tajikistan’s rivers.
www.kayakussr.com Information
Karakol is the main centre of trek- and support on paddling rivers in the
king. The tourist information centre Pamirs and Tian Shan.
here sells 1:100,000 topo maps and has a
folder detailing trekking routes. Several
companies here offer a range of logisti-
cal support.
Trustworthy local knowledge, and
preferably a local guide, are essential
42
PL AN YOUR TRIP Act i v i t i es apply ahead of time if you plan to trek Issyk-Köl at the tourist information
in these regions. centre at Karakol. For more on maps in
Kyrgystan see p307.
In Kyrgyzstan any place within
50km of the Chinese border (such as Note that on Russian maps, passes
the Inylchek Glacier, the Alay Valley, marked Unclassified (N/K) or 1A are
the Turkestan range or Peak Lenin) re- simple, with slopes no steeper than
quires a military border permit which is 30°; glaciers, where they exist, are flat
fairly easy to obtain through a trekking and without open crevasses. Grade 1B
agency. passes may have ice patches or glaciers
with hidden crevasses and may require
While most commonly used trekking ropes. Passes of grade 2A and above
routes are quite safe, mountain routes may require special equipment and
on the borders of southeastern Kyr- technical climbing skills.
gyzstan and Tajikistan are best avoided.
Some border areas around here are Hiking
mined. Discuss your route with a trek-
king agency before you wander off into Day hiking is a major outdoor pursuit
these hills, and take a local guide. for Almaty residents and there are fine
hikes from Chimbulak, among others.
Maps The Sayram-Ugam National Park and
Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Reserve are two
The major trekking/climbing maps for beautiful areas of hiking country on the
Central Asia are published and available fringes of the Tian Shan between the
abroad: southern Kazakhstan cities of Shymkent
Central Tian Shan (EWP; www.ewpnet.com) and Taraz. Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi,
1:150,000; Inylchek Glacier and surroundings. in far east Kazakhstan, is the starting
Fan Mountains (EWP; www.ewpnet.com) point for hikes up the sublimely beauti-
1:100,000; Fan Mountains in Tajikistan. ful Altay valleys that fall off the slopes
Pamir Trans Alai Mountains (EWP; www. of Mt Belukha. Zapadno-Altaysky (West-
ewpnet.com) 1:200,000; Peak Lenin and the ern Altay) Nature Reserve near Ust-
Fedchenko Glacier. Kamenogorsk is also good for hiking.
Lenin Peak (Gecko Maps; www.geckomaps.
com) 1:100,000; topographical map of the You can make nice day hikes from
mountain. bases in Ala-Archa National Park, near
Khan Tengri, Tian Shan and Inylchek (Alpen- Bishkek, and Altyn Arashan, near Ka-
vereinskarte) 1:100,000; two detailed climbing rakol, both in Kyrgyzstan. The Wakhan
maps of the central Tian Shan. and Pshart valleys in the Pamirs of
Tajikistan offer superb valley walks, as
GeoID (p244), TUK (p245) and Novino- does the Jizeu (Geisev) Valley, where you
mad (p245) in Bishkek sell useful maps can leave the tent behind and overnight
of major trekking regions. You can in village homestays.
buy 1:100,000 topographical maps of
the trek routes around southeast Lake Local hiking clubs are an excellent
way to get out of the cities for the week-
end, get some mountain air and meet up
with local expats.
TOP TREKKING AREAS
¨¨Fan Mountains (p326), Tajikistan – routes from three days to two weeks.
¨¨Alpine-like valleys of the Tian Shan (p272), around Karakol, Kyrgyzstan.
¨¨Walnut forests and waterfalls around Arslanbob (p286), Kyrgyzstan.
¨¨Khan Tengri and Inylchek Glacier (p77) – from Kyrgyzstan or Kazakhstan.
¨¨Around Almaty, Kazakhstan – either from Ozero Bolshoe Almatinskoe (p73)
or Chimbulak (p71) or further away in the Kolsay Lakes region (p76).
¨¨Ala-Archa National Park (p250), Kyrgyzstan – just two hours from the
capital.
43
If you’re in Dushanbe for the weekend stantours.com) offers a week-long horse- PL AN YOUR TRIP Act i v i t i es
in summer tag along with one of the day riding trip through the Kopet Dag
hikes led by Hike Tajikistan (p317). The Mountains.
twice-monthly excursions of the Tashkent
Hiking Club (p155) are also a good bet. Kan Tengri (p68) offers horse treks
through the desert landscapes of Altyn-
Horse Trekking Emel National Park and also in the
central Tian Shan. There are further
Kyrgyzstan is the perfect place to sad- horseback options in the ecotourism
dle up and explore the high pastures. centres of Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Re-
CBT and Shepherd’s Life coordinators serve and Sayram-Ugam National Park
throughout the country arrange over- (ride between them in three days), at the
night horse treks to jailoos (summer Kolsay Lakes in southeast Kazakhstan
pastures) around central Kyrgyzstan, or and at Zapadno-Altaysky (Western Altay)
longer expeditions on horseback lasting Nature Reserve near Ust-Kamenogorsk.
up to two weeks. Horse hire costs the These are generally more expensive than
equivalent of around US$15 per day, or in neighbouring Kyrgyzstan, with horse
around US$50 per person per day with a hire starting at US$25 per day.
guide, yurtstay and food.
The German company Kasachstan
Horseback is the perfect way to ar- Reisen (p126) offers interesting horse-
rive at Song-Köl. Trips can depart from riding, 4WD and trekking trips in
either Jangy Talap, Chayek, Jumgal or Kazakhstan, in partnership with local
Chekildek and take around three days, Kazakh agencies.
staying in yurts en route. The six-day
horse trek from Song-Köl to Tash Rabat Camel Trekking
via the Mazar Valley is an adventurous
choice. If you’ve got Silk Road fever and im-
agine a multiday caravan across the
There are also good horse treks from wastes of Central Asia, you could be in
Karakol (Altyn Arashan offers some for a disappointment. Bukhara travel
lovely day trips) and Tamga (on the agencies arrange camel treks north
southern shores of Lake Issyk-Köl), as of Nurata around Lake Aidarkul and
well as Naryn, Arslanbob, Kazarman there are also possibilities at Ayaz-Qala
and Ak-Terek north of Özgön. Kegeti in northwest Uzbekistan but these are
Canyon, east of Bishkek, is another mostly short jaunts from comfortable
popular place for horse riding. tourist yurts (with electricity, plumbing
and three-course meals). The best time
For organised trips in Kyrgyzstan, for low-altitude desert camel trekking
Asiarando (www.asiarando.com), Pegasus is from March to May, when the spring
Horse Trekking (p257) and Shepherds rains turn the floor of the Kyzylkum
Way (p270) have all been recommended. Desert into a Jackson Pollock canvas.
The Pamirs of Tajikistan and Kyr- For the full-on ‘Marco Polo’ experi-
gyzstan are also sublime places for a ence, META in Tajikistan can give
horse trek. The Pamir Trek Association information on one- to three-day treks
(www.pamirtrek.com) is an association of on Bactrian camels in the high-altitude
horse guides from the Tajikistan Pamirs Rang-Kul region of the eastern Pamirs.
and Kyrgyzstan Pamir Alai valley that
offers horse treks in these regions. Mountain Biking &
Cycling
For a classy ride, you can’t do better
than astride a thoroughbred Akhal-Teke Several tour companies offer supported
in Turkmenistan. The Alaja Farm (p377) biking trips over the Torugart Pass,
stables at Geok-Dere, outside Ashgabat, although die-hard do-it-yourselfers will
offer half-day rides, and some travel find the Irkeshtam crossing logistically
agencies can arrange multiday horse
treks. DN Tours (www.dntours.com) offers
an 11-day desert ride on Akhal-Tekes,
with camping and the opportunity to
stay in local villages. Stantours (www.
44
PL AN YOUR TRIP Act i v i t i es easier. The Kegeti Canyon and pass in Hamsafar Travel in Tajikistan can
northern Kyrgyzstan is another biking help with information on kayaking and
location favoured by adventure-travel rafting in Tajikistan.
companies.
Tashkent operators run fairly tame
In Kyrgyzstan the Karkara Valley rafting trips in September and October
offers quiet country back roads. From on the Syr-Darya river. There’s plenty
here you can cycle around the southern of exciting white water nearby on the
shore of Lake Issyk-Köl and then up Ugam, Chatkal and Pskem Rivers:
into central Kyrgyzstan. Karakol’s IGPA talk to Asia Raft (www.asiaraft.uz) in
(p263) is a cooperative of guides that Tashkent.
can take you on five-day mountain bike
trips from Karakol if you bring your Mountaineering &
own bike. Mountain bikes can be rented Rock Climbing
in Karakol and Arslanbob for local
rides, though most travellers on multi- Central Asian ‘alpinism’ was very popu-
day trips bring their own bikes. lar during the Soviet era, when climb-
ers dragged their crampons from all
A growing number of die-hards over the communist bloc to tackle the
organise their own long-distance region’s five impressive ‘Snow Leopards’
mountain-bike trips across Central Asia. (peaks over 7000m).
The most popular route is probably the
Pamir Highway in Tajikistan, which is a Top of the line for altitude junk-
spectacular but hard trip. Cyclists who ies are Khan Tengri, Pik Pobedy and
have done the route recommend trans- other peaks of the central Tian Shan
porting your bike to Khorog and start- in eastern Kyrgyzstan and southeast
ing from there. The highway is paved Kazakhstan. Khan Tengri is a stun-
but winds can make pedalling hard ningly beautiful peak. Massive Pobedy
work. Several cyclists have reported is the world’s most northern 7000m-plus
being harassed and extorted in border peak and the hardest of Central Asia’s
areas, including by border guards. Still, 7000m-plus summits.
it’s one of the world’s great bike trips.
For tips and bike travelogues around Several Almaty and Bishkek tour
Central Asia see the following websites: agents can arrange trips to this region,
¨¨www.carryoncycling.com including helicopter flights to the base
¨¨www.trans-tadji.info camps during the climbing season from
¨¨www.cyclingabout.com the end of July to early September.
¨¨www.timbarnes.ndo.co.uk Even if you aren’t a climber, these are
¨¨www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/standiet fine treks that lead into a breathtaking
You can rent mountain bikes for local mountain amphitheatre. You will need a
trips in Karakol, Arslanbob and Mur- border zone permit for either side and a
gab. You can get repairs and some bike mountaineering permit (US$105) on the
parts in Bishkek. Kyrgyz side to climb here.
Muztoo (%055-582 4435, 245 503; The other prime high-altitude
http://muztoo.ch) in Osh, Kyrgyzstan, playground is the Pamir in southern
arranges motorbike tours of Central Kyrgyzstan and eastern Tajikistan, es-
Asia and rents trial bikes. pecially Peak Lenin (Ibn Sina), accessed
from the north side at Achik Tash base
Rafting camp. Lenin is a non-technical climb and
is considered one of the easiest 7000m
Intrepid rafters and kayakers have summits, yet it has claimed the most
started to explore Central Asia’s remote lives. The season is July and August.
white water but commercial operations Bishkek-based companies like Ak-Sai,
are still limited. Tien Shan Travel and Asia Mountains
operate commercial expeditions from
base camps at Achik Tash.
The most accessible climbing is in
Ala-Archa National Park, just outside
45
Bishkek, where popular routes from the equipment between November and PL AN YOUR TRIP Act i v i t i es
Ak-Say glacier require just a couple of March.
days. Mt Korona, Mt Uchityel and Mt
Free Korea are the most popular peaks Nearly every sports-related agency in
here. The website of the Alpine Fund Central Asia offers heli-skiing, in which
(www.alpinefund.org) in Bishkek is a good old Aeroflot MI-8 helicopters drop you
resource for this region. off on remote high peaks and you ski
down. Most guarantee from 3000 to
Other 4000m-plus peaks include Pik 4000 vertical metres per day for de-
Sayram in the Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature scents of up to 5km but require a group
Reserve and Mt Belukha in east Kaza- of 12 to 15 people. The Kyrgyz Alatau
khstan’s northern Altay Mountains. Ex- range behind Bishkek is one of the
perienced climbers will find that plenty cheapest places to try out heli-skiing,
of unclimbed summits await, especially or try the Chimgan and Chatkal ranges
in the Kokshal-Tau range near the bor- behind Tashkent (book through Asia
der with China. Adventures, p155).
Kyrgyzstan: A Climber’s Map & Kazakhstan’s pristine Altay Moun-
Guide, by Garth Willis and Martin tains are renowned for cross-country
Gamache, and published by the Ameri- skiing; the best place to do this is Ra-
can Alpine Club, is a map and mini- khmanovskie Klyuchi. Arslanbob in
guide that covers Ala-Archa, the west- Kyrgyzstan is also surprisingly well set
ern Kokshal-Tau and Karavshin regions. up for cross-country skiing and you can
rent a limited number of skis and boots
Two of the most exciting and least here. A few travel firms in Kazakhstan
known rock climbing destinations in and Kyrgyzstan offer ski-mountaineer-
Asia are Ak-Suu peak in southwestern ing trips in the central Tian Shan in July
Kyrgyzstan (known as ‘Central Asia’s and August, and in the Zailiysky Alatau
Patagonia’) and the Zamin-Karkor tower and Küngey Alatau ranges from Febru-
at Margeb in northern Tajikistan. For ary to April.
something a lot less technical try the
four-day ascent of Babashata from Ars- The Medeu ice rink just outside Al-
lanbob in southern Kyrgyzstan. maty is one of the largest speed-skating
rinks in the world (larger than a football
Mountaineering and climbing equip- pitch). It’s open to the public daily from
ment is hard to find in the region so you November to April.
should bring your own gear.
Winter Sports Four-Wheel Drive Trips
Central Asia’s ski season is approxi- The back roads of Kyrgyzstan, and
mately November to April, with local particularly Tajikistan’s Badakhshan
variations. The region’s best-known and region, offer great scope for adventure
best-equipped downhill area is Chimbu- travel in an indestructible Russian UAZ
lak (Shymbulak; www.shimbulak.kz), a day- 4WD. Four-wheel drives can be hired
trip from Almaty. The new Ak-Bulak and from around US$0.50 per kilometre in
Tabagan (www.tabagan.kz) resorts near both countries.
Talgar, 90 minutes from Almaty, both
have good facilities. Figure on about In Kyrgyzstan one possible 4WD
US$60 per day for lift pass and equip- itinerary leads from Talas over the
ment hire. Kara Bura Pass into the Chatkal river
valley and then around to Lake Sary-
Skiing is still in its infancy in Kyr- Chelek. Other tracks lead from Naryn
gyzstan, but there are several options to Barskoön, and Barskoön to Inylchek,
in the Kyrgyz Alatau valleys (especially through the high Tian Shan.
Ala-Archa), south of Bishkek and at Kar-
akol. It’s possible to rent skis and boards It’s well worth hiring a 4WD from
in Bishkek through TUK (p245), as well Murgab in the eastern Pamirs for trips
as in Karakol. The relatively modern out to such gorgeously remote places as
Karakol Ski Base (p267) in Karakol has Shaimak, Jalang and Zor-Kul.
chair lifts, accommodation and rental
More 4WD fun, of a slightly sandier
nature, is possible in Turkmenistan.
PL AN YOUR TRIP Act i v i t i es46 Kazakhstan’s Korgalzhyn Nature
One exciting itinerary is the trip from Reserve lie at the crossroads of two
Yangykala Canyon across the Karakum major bird migration routes, attract-
desert to the Darvaza Gas Craters. Ex- ing 300 species including the world’s
pect plenty of dune bashing, sleeping most northerly flamingo habitat (April
under starry skies and stops for tea in to September). The tulips of Aksu-
remote Turkmen villages. Zhabagyly Nature Reserve are world
famous and several local and foreign
Other Activities companies run tours to this area in
spring. The following tour operator
Several companies organise cav- websites are a great resource for bird-
ing trips, especially around Osh, in watching in Kazakhstan:
Kyrgyzstan, and Chimgan, north of ¨¨www.kazakhstanbirdtours.com
Tashkent in Uzbekistan. Spelunkers ¨¨www.naturetrek.co.uk
will get a kick from exploring the miles ¨¨www.wingsbirds.com
of twisting tunnels that make up the
Karlyuk Caves (Central Asia’s largest), Odyssey Travel (www.odysseytravel.com.
deep underneath Turkmenistan’s Kugi- au), in Australia, operates archaeo-
tang Nature Reserve. It’s even possible logical tours to the Khorezm region of
to scuba dive in Lake Issyk-Köl, though Uzbekistan, during which you’ll spend
some of the equipment used looks like two weeks on an archaeological dig,
props from a 1960s Jacques Cousteau followed by a short general tour of the
documentary. country.
There are some fine opportunities Sport fishing is an option in the Ili
for nature spotting. The wetlands of delta in Kazakhstan.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 47
Plan Your Trip
Community-
Based Tourism
Central Asia’s community-based tourism organisations offer some
of the region’s best and most exciting experiences, at fantastic
value. Connect with these organisations for an incredible grass-
roots experience and sleep better in your yurtstay at night knowing
that your money is going directly to the family you are staying with,
rather than a middleman in Bishkek or abroad.
The Idea Community-Tourism
Contacts
At the end of the 1990s, with few economic
options left to Kyrgyzstan, development or- Kazakhstan
ganisations started to look to new sources
of income to support remote communities, Ecotourism Information Resource Centre
starting with tourism. The idea was to (p68; EIRC; www.eco-tourism.kz)
help connect intrepid tourists to a series Wild Nature (p86; www.wildnature-kz.narod.ru)
of local service providers, from drivers to
herders, in a fair and mutually beneficial Uzbekistan
way, while supporting local craft produc-
tion and sustainable tourism practices. Nuratau-Kyzylkum Biosphere Reserve
(p186; www.nuratau.com)
The phenomenon started in central Kyr-
gyzstan with Swiss help (Helvetas) and has Kyrgyzstan
since rapidly spread throughout the region.
Today these organisations offer everything Community Based Tourism
from homestays and vehicle hire to horse (p247; www.cbtkyrgyzstan.kg)
treks and adventures across the country. CBT plus Eco (p277; www.cbtpluseco.kg)
They are your keys to an authentic budget
adventure on the cheap. Tajikistan
In addition to gung-ho adventures, Pamir Eco-Cultural Tourism Association
most community-tourism organisations (p346; PECTA; www.pecta.tj)
offer a range of cultural activities. CBT Zerafshan Tourism Development Association
in Kyrgyzstan can organise displays of (p333; ZTDA; www.ztda-tourism.tj/en)
felt-making or eagle-hunting. EIRC in Murgab Ecotourism Association
Kazakhstan arranges fun workshops mak- (p354; META; www.meta.tj)
ing kumys (fermented mare’s milk) and
concerts of traditional Kazakh music.
Program coordinators sustain them-
selves through a 15% commission or a
small coordinator’s fee. A few teeth-
ing problems remain to be addressed,
48
PL AN YOUR TRIP C o mm u nit y- B a s ed To u ri s m including issues with nepotism, reli- Pamirs Eco-Cultural Tourism Association
ability and the tendency for service (PECTA) office in Khorog.
providers to break away and found their
own rival businesses, and most of the Further east in Penjikent, the Zerafshan
organisations are not yet financially self- Tourism Development Association is the
supporting. Remember also that these key to linking together homestays to make
are not professional tourism companies, a 4WD trip in the remote Haft-Kul, Zeraf-
so be sure to pack a sense of humour and shan and Yagnob valleys, or hiring guides,
expect some delays and schedule changes donkeys and equipment for a trek in the
during your trip. dramatic Fan Mountains.
Country Programs The hub for ecotourism in Kazakhstan
is the Ecotourism Information Resource
Community Based Tourism in Kyrgyzstan Centre, which offers similar grassroots
is the region’s leader, with a network of adventures and homestays, from flamingo-
a dozen locations across the country, watching at Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve
sometimes overlapping with original or- to horse riding in Sayram-Ugam National
ganisation Shepherd’s Life. Most towns in Park, though at higher prices than else-
Kyrgyzstan have CBT-inspired homestays where in the region. Wild Nature also
and the organisation now offers everything offers homestays, horse treks and nature-
from homestays and horse treks to folk watching trips. The best destinations are
music concerts and horse-racing festivals. probably Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Reserve
and nearby Sayram-Ugam National Park
In Tajikistan, Murgab Ecotourism Asso- (www.ugam.kz).
ciation (META) can put you in touch with
remote yurtstays, fixed-price 4WD hire The idea is starting to make its way
and English-speaking guides in a region into Uzbekistan through a Unesco-
devoid of any formal tourist infrastruc- supported program in the Nuratau-
ture. Mountain Societies Development & Kyzylkum Biosphere Reserve.
Support Project (MSDSP) in Khorog has
helped establish homestays in the western Central Asia’s community-based tour-
Pamirs, including the popular homestay ism projects are a fantastic resource for
and hiking program in the Jizeu (Geisev) independent travellers and deserve your
Valley. For information on these and lo- support. Our advice is to try to pack
cal drivers and guides visit the nonprofit some flexibility and extra time into your
trip to take advantage of what a par-
ticular branch offers. You can expect the
experience to rank among the highlights
of your travels.
TOP COMMUNITY-BASED ADVENTURES
The following adventurous trips can be arranged by community-tourism programs
in Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan and offer exciting ways to get off the beaten track with-
out blowing your budget.
¨¨Two- or three-day horse trip across the jailoo (summer pasture) from Kyzart,
Jumgal or Kurtka (Jangy Talap) to Song-Köl, Kyrgyzstan. (p273)
¨¨Four-day trek from Arslanbob to the holy lakes of the Köl-Mazar and on to Kyzyl
Ünkur, Kyrgyzstan. (p287)
¨¨Three-day trip from Kochkor to Köl-Ükök lake, Kyrgyzstan. (p278)
¨¨Horse trek from Kyzyl-Oi to Balik Köl (two or three days), Kyrgyzstan. (p279)
¨¨Six-day horse trek from Eki-Naryn to Bokonbayevo, Kyrgyzstan. (p282)
¨¨Hunting with eagles in Bokonbayevo, Kyrgyzstan. (p272)
¨¨Camel trekking for three days on the ‘Roof of the World’ at Rang-Kul. (p355)
¨¨Excursion to Chatyr-Köl from Tash Rabat – day hike/horse trip or overnight at
the lake, Kyrgyzstan. (p285)
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