Lonely Planet Central Asia (Travel Guide) by Various

499

Fine, and you? onat, a siz? Numbers – Uzbek
I don’t understand. men dushenamok
Do you speak siz inglische 1 bir
English? gepleyarsinizmi?
Where is …? … niredeh? 2 ikki
How much? nyacheh?
3 uch

4 turt

5 besh L ANGUAGE U Z B E K

airport aeroport 6 olti
bus station durolha
doctor lukman 7 etti
friend dost
hospital keselkhana 8 sakkiz
hotel mikmankhana
police militsia 9 tukkiz
restaurant restoran
toilet hajat’hana 10 un
train station vokzal
100 yuz

1000 ming

Goodbye. hayr

Thank you. rakhmat

Yes./No. kha/yuk

bad ervet How are you? kanday siz?
boiled water gaina d’lan su
bread churek Do you speak English? inglizcha bila sizmi?
expensive gummut
good yakhsheh Where is …? … kayerda?
meat et
rice tui How much? kancha/nichpul?
tea chay
airport tayyorgokh
Monday dushanbe bus station avtobeket
Tuesday seshenbe doctor tabib
Wednesday charshanbe friend urmok/doost
Thursday penshenbe hospital kasalhona
Friday anna hotel mehmon’hona
Saturday shenbe police militsia
Sunday yekshanbe restaurant restoran
toilet hojat’hona
UZBEK train station temir yul vokzali

Uzbekistan’s major languages are Uzbek, bad yomon
Russian and Tajik. Uzbek, a Turkic language, boiled water kaynatilgan suv
is official and, with 15 million speakers, the bread non
most widely spoken non-Slavic language from expensive kimmat
the former Soviet states. It was first written good yakhshi
in Arabic script, then in Roman letters, and meat gusht
since 1941 in a modified Cyrillic alphabet, but rice guruch
the country has been moving to a Roman choy
alphabet. In our pronunciation guides, gh is tea
pronounced as in ‘ugh’, k/q as a guttural ‘k’, u as dushanba
the ‘oo’ in ‘book’ and kh as the ‘ch’ in ‘Bach’. Monday seyshanba
Tuesday chorshanba
Peace be with you. salom alaykhum Wednesday payshanba
And peace with you. tinch berling Thursday juma
(response) Friday shanba
Hello. salom Saturday yakshanba
Sunday

500

GLOSSARY

L ANGUAGE G LO S S A R Y ABBREVIATIONS batyr (Kyr, Kaz) – warrior hero dutar (T) – two-stringed guitar
in epics
A – Arabic beg (T) – landlord, gentleman; eshon (A) – Sufi leader, also
also spelt bay or bek spelt ishan
Kaz – Kazakh berkutchi (Kyr) – eagle hunter
Bi (Kaz) – honorific Kazakh title GAI (R) – traffic police
Kyr – Kyrgyz given to clan elders geoglyph – geometric pattern of
bishkek (Kaz, Kyrg) – see stones, often used in astrological
R – Russian pishpek observations
bosuy (Kyr) – see yurt gillam (T) – carpet, also gilim
Taj – Tajik bufet (R) – snack bar selling glasnost (R) – ‘openness’ in
cheap cold meats, boiled eggs, government that was one aspect
T – general Turkic salads, breads, pastries etc of the Gorbachev reforms
bulvar (R) – boulevard gorod (R) – town
Tur – Turkmen bulvary (Kyr) – boulevard Graeco-Bactrian – Hellenistic
buzkashi (T) – traditional polo- kingdom and culture centred on
U – Uzbek like game played with a headless northern Afghanistan, southern
calf, goat or sheep carcass (buz) Uzbekistan and Tajikistan follow-
-abad (T) – suffix meaning ing the conquests of Alexander
‘town of’ caravanserai – travellers inn the Great
ak (T) – white chabana (Kyr, Kaz) – cowboy Great Game – the geopolitical
ak kalpak (Kyr) – felt hat worn chaikhana (T) – teahouse ‘Cold War’ of territorial expan-
by Kyrgyz men chapan (U, Taj) – traditional sion between the Russian and
akimat (T) – regional govern- stripy Uzbek/Tajik cloak British empires in the 19th and
ment office or city hall, also chaykhana (T) – see chaikhana early 20th centuries in Central
aqimat chong (T) – big Asia
aksakal (T) – revered elder choyhona (T) – see chaikhana
akyn (Kyr) – minstrel, bard chuchuk (Kaz) – see kazy (in Hadith (A) – collected acts
ala-kiyiz (Kyr) – felt rug with food glossary) and sayings of the Prophet
coloured panels pressed on chuchvara (T) – dumplings Mohammed
alany (Kaz) – square CIS – Commonwealth of haj (A) – the pilgrimage to
alplager (R) – mountaineers Independent States; the loose Mecca, one of the five pillars
camp, short for alpinistskiy lager political and economic alliance of Islam, to be made by devout
apparatchik (R) – bureaucrat of most former member repub- Muslims at least once during
apteka (R) – pharmacy lics of the USSR (except the their lifetime
arashan (T) – springs Baltic states and Georgia) hakimat (T) – see hakimyat
asalam aleykum (A) – tradi- CPK – Communist Party of hakimyat (Kyr) – municipal
tional Muslim greeting, meaning Kazakhstan administration building
‘peace be with you’ hammam (A) – bathhouse
ASSR – Autonomous Soviet dacha (R) – a holiday bungalow hammomi (U) – baths
Socialist Republic dangyly (Kaz) – avenue hazrat (A) – honorific title
askhana (Kaz, Kyr) – local darikhana (Kaz) – pharmacy meaning ‘majesty’ or ‘holy’
restaurant darya (T) – river Hejira (A) – flight of the Prophet
aul (T) – yurt or herders’ camp dastarkhan (T) – literally Mohammed and his followers to
aviakassa (R) – air ticket office ‘tablecloth’; feast Medina in AD 622
avtobus (R) – bus depe (Tur) – see tepe hijab (A) – Muslim woman’s veil
avtostantsia (R) – bus stop or dezhurnaya (R) – floor-lady; or headscarf (literally ‘modest
bus stand the female attendant on duty on dress’)
azan (A) – Muslim call to prayer each floor of a Soviet-style hotel hoja (U) – lord, master, gentle-
dom (R) – building man (honorific title)
babushka (R) – old woman; dom otdykha (R) – rest home
headscarf worn by Russian doppe (U) – black, four-sided ikat (U) – tie-dyed silk
peasant women skullcap embroidered in white IMU – Islamic Movement of
bagh (Taj, D) – garden and worn by men; also dopi, Uzbekistan
balbal (T) – totemlike stone doppa, dopy or doppilar IRP – Islamic Renaissance Party;
marker grouping of radical
banya (R) – public bath
basmachi (R) – literally ‘bandits’;
Muslim guerrilla fighters who
resisted the Bolshevik takeover
in Central Asia

501

activists dedicated to the forma- lux (R) – deluxe pishpek (Kaz, Kyr) – churn for L ANGUAGE G LO S S A R Y
tion of Islamic rule in Central Asia making kumys
Ismaili (A) – a branch of Shiite mahalla (U) – urban neighbour-
Islam hood platskartny (R) – hard-sleeper
Manas (Kyr) – epic; legendary train
jailoo (Kyr) – summer pasture hero revered by the Kyrgyz
jami masjid (A) – Friday manaschi (Kyr) – type of akyn ploshchad (R) – square
mosque who recites from the Kyrgyz pochta (R) – post office
jamoat khana (Taj) – Ismaili cycle of oral legends pol-lux (R) – semideluxe
prayer hall and meeting hall marshrutka (R, T) – short term polyclinic – health centre
juma (U) – Friday, see jami for marshrutnoe and marshrutny propusk (R) – permit
masjid avtobus prospekt (R) – avenue
marshrutnoe (R, T) – small bus
kalon (Taj) – great or van that follows a fixed route qymyz (Kaz) – see kumys
kara (T) – black but stops on demand to take on
kassa (R) – cashier or ticket or let off passengers, with fares rabab (T) – six-stringed
office depending on distance travelled mandolin, also rubab
kazan (T) – large cauldron marshrutny avtobus (R, T) – rayon (R) – district
(used to cook plov) large bus that follows a fixed
-kent (T) – suffix meaning route but stops on demand to samovar (R) – urn used for
‘town of’ take on or let off passengers, heating water for tea, often
khanatlas (U) – see ikat with fares depending on dis- found on trains
khiyeboni (Taj) – avenue tance travelled
kino (R) – cinema; also kinot- maydoni (U, Taj) – square sary (T) – yellow
eatr mikrorayon (R) – micro region şayoli (Tur) – street
köçesi (Tur) – street or district sharq (Taj, U) – east
kochasi (U) – street militsia (R, T) – police shaykhana (T) – see chaikhana
köchösü (Kyr) – street MSDSP – Mountain Societies Shiite (A) – one of the two main
koh (Taj) – mountain Development Support Project branches of Islam
kok (T) – blue muezzin (A) – man who calls
kökör (T) – kumys storer the Muslim faithful to prayer shyrdak (Kyr) – felt rug with
kokpar (Kaz) – see buzkashi mufti (A) – Islamic legal expert appliquéd coloured panels
kolkhoz (R) – collective farm or spiritual leader
koshesi (Kaz) – street skibaza (R) – ski base
koshk (U, Tur) – fortress Naqshband – the most influen- SSR – Soviet Socialist Republic
koshma (Kaz) – multicoloured tial of many Sufi secret associa- stolovaya (R) – canteen,
felt mats tions in Central Asia cafeteria
kozha (Kaz) – see hoja Navrus (A) – literally ‘New
kuchai (Taj) – street Days’; the main Islamic spring Sufi (A) – mystical tradition
kupeyny (R) – 2nd-class or festival; has various regional in Islam
sleeping carriage on trains; transliterations (Nauroz, Nauryz,
also kupe Nawruz, Norruz or Novruz) suzani (U) – bright silk embroi-
kupkari (U) – see buzkashi dery on cotton cloth
kurgan (T) – burial mound oblast (R) – province, region
kurort (R) – thermal-spring oblys (Kaz) – province, region tapchan (Taj) – tea bed
complex OVIR (R) – Otdel Vis i Reg- tash (T) – stone
kurpacha (U) – colourful sitting istratsii; Office of Visas and tebbetey (Kyr) – round fur-
mattress for a tapchan Registration trimmed hat worn by men
kvartal (R) – district Oxus – historic name for the
kymyz (Kaz) – see kumys Amu-Darya river telpek (Tur, U) – sheepskin hat
kyz-kumay (Kyr) – traditional worn by men
game in which a man chases a pakhta (T) – cotton
woman on horseback and tries pakhtakor (T) – cotton worker toi (T) – celebration
to kiss her panjara (T) – trellis of wood, Transoxiana – meaning ‘the
kyz-kuu (Kaz) – see kyz-kumay stone or ghanch (plaster) land beyond the Oxus’; historical
kyzyl (T) – red perestroika (R) – literally term for the region between the
‘restructuring’; Gorbachev’s Amu-Darya and Syr-Darya rivers
LOI – Letter of Invitation efforts to revive the economy
piala (T) – bowl TsUM (R) – Tsentralny univer-
salny magazin; central depart-
ment store

tubiteyka (R) – see doppe
tugai – dense forest endemic to
Central Asian river valleys and
flood plains

turbaza (R) – holiday camp
typically with Spartan cabins,
plain food, sports, video hall

502 umuvalnik (R) – portable cal wood framework covered
washing basin with felt
and bar, usually open only in univermag (R) – universalny
summer magazin; department store zakaznik (R) – protected area
Turkestan – literally ‘the Land uulu (Kyr) – meaning ‘son of’ zapovednik (R) – nature reserve
of the Turks’; covers Central Asia zhyostky (R) – hard carriage
and Xinjiang (China) on trains
zikr (A) – recitation or contem-
 LANGUE  LFOAONDGUGALGOES S A R Y UAZ (R) – Russian 4WD viloyat (U) – province plation of the names of God;
ulak-tartysh (Kyr) – see vodopad (R) – waterfall recitation of sacred writings; one
buzkashi vokzal (R) – train station part of traditional Sufi practice
ylag oyyny (Karakalpak) – see
ulama (A) – class of religious buzkashi
scholars or intellectuals
yurt – traditional nomadic
ulitsa (R) – street ‘house’, a collapsible cylindri-

FOOD GLOSSARY

abrikos – apricot gulyash – a dismal miscel- makarony – macaroni, pasta
agurets – cucumber lany of meat, vegetables and masla – butter
amlet – omelette potatoes mastoba – rice soup
antrecot – steak mimosa salat – fish and
arbuz – watermelon jiger – liver shredded-potato salad
ayran – salty yoghurt/water mineralnaya vada – mineral
mix kafe – coffee water
kafe s slivkami – coffee with morkovi salat – carrot salad
barene – jam milk myod/assal – honey
befstroganov – beef stroganoff kaimak – sweet cream
beshbarmak – flat noodles with kapusty salat – cabbage salad nan – flat bread
lamb, horsemeat or vegetable kartofel fri – French fries, chips
broth (served separately) kartofel pure – mashed potato okroshka – cold or hot soup
bifshteks – ‘beefsteak’, glorified kartoshka – potato made from sour cream, pota-
hamburger kasha – porridge toes, eggs and meat
bitochki – cutlet katyk – thin, drinkable yoghurt olivye salat – potato, ham,
bliny - Russian-style pancake kazy – horse-meat sausage peas and mayonnaise
borshch – beetroot and potato khleb – bread
soup, often with sour cream kolbasa – sausage pelmeni – small dumplings
bozo – beverage made from kompot – juice in soup
fermented millet kotleta po-Kievski – chicken persik – peach
Kiev piva – beer
chay – tea kumys – fermented mare’s milk plov – a rice dish with meat,
chuisky salat – spicy carrot (also kymys) carrots or other additions
salad in vinaigrette kuritsa – chicken (traditionally prepared by men
chuchvara – dumplings kury gril – roast chicken for special celebrations), also
kuurdak – fatty stew of meat, known as pilau
farel – trout offal and potato pomidor – tomato
Frantsuzky salat – beetroot, ragu – beef stew
carrots and French fries laghman – noodles rassolnik s myasam – soup of
frikadela – fried meatballs lyulya kebab – beef or mutton marinated cucumber and kidney
meatballs ris – rice
galuptsi – cabbage rolls stuffed
with rice and meat manpar – noodle bits, meat, sakhar – sugar
gavyadina – beef vegetables and mild seasoning salat iz svezhei kapusty – raw
grechka – boiled buckwheat in broth cabbage salad
gribi – mushrooms manty – small stuffed dump- salat tourist – sliced tomatoes
lings and cucumbers
samsa – samosa

503

shashlyk – meat roasted on sir – cheese tvorog – curd with cream and L ANGUAGE FO O D G LO S S A R Y
skewers over hot coals smetana – sour cream sugar
shashlyk farshurabanniya – sok – juice/fruit squash
minced-meat (Adana) kebab sosiski – frankfurter sausage vinagrad – grapes
shashlyk iz baraniny – mutton stolichny – beef, potatoes, vishnya – cherry
kebab eggs, carrots, mayonnaise and
shashlyk iz okorochkov – apples yablaka – apple
chicken kebab yitso – egg
shashlyk iz pecheni – liver stolovaya vada (biz gaz) – still yitso barennye – boiled egg
kebab water (no gas) yitso zharennye – fried egg
shorpo – soup of boiled mutton
on the bone with potatoes, car- sudak zhareny – fried pike
rots and turnips or perch
shubat – fermented camel’s
milk suzma – strained yoghurt, like
tart cottage or cream cheese

504 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS AUTHOR THANKS

Many thanks to the travellers who used Bradley Mayhew
the last edition and wrote to us with help-
ful hints, useful advice and interesting Thanks to stalwart co-authors Tom, John,
anecdotes: Mark and our anonymous Turkmenistan
A Thomas Allen, Steven Aspland B Don Beer, author. Hard to find a more dedicated and
Leon Boelens, Pierre Brouillet, Joe Bryant professional bunch of Central Asian travel
C James Chance, Arthur Clement De Givry, enthusiasts. Thanks to the much-missed
Judy Comont D Matthew Dearden, Kieran Suzannah Shwer for getting this title up and
Drake, Paul-Noël Dumont F Sara Frau running one more time.
G Bas Geelen, Ask Gudmundsen H Margaret
Hawthorn, PJ Henry, Miriam Herzfeld, Allan Mark Elliott
Hubble, Aaron Hurd J Martin Jaeckel, Nathan
Jones, Martin Jung K Wolfgang Keller, David A giant rakhmat to Umar Isakov, Anna
Kerkhoff, Tyler Keys, Hans-Werner Kopp, Mar- Keil, Ervin Bartis and family, Janice Setser,
tin Král, Aleksandra Krukar L Eric-Jan Lens, Zhandiya Zoolshooeva, Christophe and
Fabian Liechti M Richard Mallett, Helena Nicole, Ed Hewitt, Chris Mathis, Andrew
Moon, Martijn Munneke N Arihe (Eric) Nee- Tucker-Peake, Alick Warburton, Jop
mann, Pascal Noel P Nina Plumbe, Jo Py- Weterings, Phil Riddle, Robin Ord-Smith,
croft R Jacqueline Ripart, Steve Rogowski, Zafar in Penjikent, Will Cooper, Sang Wang,
Michal Rudziecki S Martina Schroeter, Clement Meynier, Aspia, Flora Renner, the
Tanya Semyonova, Roberto Spanghero T Pamir Lodge crew, Lola, Murat and friends,
Frank Techel V Marinus Vissers W Stefan Aleema Shivji, Taalai and family in Karakol,
Wieser, Barry Wilkinson, Kathleen Williams, the memory of Wil Klass. Back home, a mil-
Sabine Wissel, Barbara Wolfke, Sebastian lion thanks to ‘the Kids’ for endless support,
Wolking, Stephen Wong Y Robert Young tea and medals. And to Harriet for waiting
and sharing.

505

Tom Masters John Noble BEHIND THE SCENES

Big thanks to my team of fellow authors: A project like this is quite impossible without
Bradley Mayhew, Mark Elliott, John Noble willing help from a whole lot of people. Extra
and Turkmenistan’s anonymous author special thanks to Robert and Assely Manson,
for all their help and intelligence sharing. David Berghof, Svetlana Baskakova, Serik
Thanks also to Janine and the entire in- Dyusenbaev, Alikhan and Askar Abdeshev,
house team at LPHQ in Melbourne (you Vitaly Shuptar, Dagmar Schreiber, Karlygash
shall all be missed!). On the road, a huge Makatova, Alexander Petrov, Andrey Yurch-
debt of gratitude to my intrepid and im- enkov, Ali Hudabardy Tash (Kashgar Tourism
mensely patient mother, who negotiated International, China), Zhamilya Zhukenova,
the deserts of Uzbekistan with me with and my fellow authors Bradley, Mark, Tom
hardly a complaint at the complete lack and the Turkmenistan author.
of caffeine and wireless, and who dutifully
slogged around towns with me all day ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
visiting various hotels, medressas and
museums. Big thanks also to the team at Climate maps data adapted from Peel MC,
Advantour in Tashkent, particularly Murod Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated
and Feruza; to David Berghof at Stantours; World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate
to Dowlet and Sasha in Samarkand; Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System
Gulnara and Hamid in Bukhara; Hannelore Sciences, 11, 1633-44.
Bendsen in Khiva and the crew at the Jipek Cover photograph: Char Minar, Bukhara,
Joli in Nukus, especially Era and Aijamal. Uzbekistan. Michele Falzone/Corbis ©

THIS BOOK Coordinating Editors Cover Research
Lauren Hunt, Amanda Naomi Parker
This 6th edition of Lonely Williamson
Planet’s Central Asia Language Content
guidebook was researched Senior Cartographer Branislava Vladisavljevic
and written by Bradley David Kemp Thanks to Anita Banh,
Mayhew, Mark Elliott, Tom Laura Crawford, Ryan
Masters, John Noble and Book Designer Evans, Errol Hunt, Larissa
an anonymous author for Mazzy Prinsep Frost, Genesys India,
Turkmenistan. This guide- Managing Editors Sasha Jouve India, Valentina
book was commissioned in Baskett, Brigitte Ellemor Kremenchutskaya,
Lonely Planet’s Melbourne Senior Editor Karyn Noble Anne Mason, Catherine
office and produced by the Assisting Editors Paul Naghten, Chad Parkhill,
following: Harding, Gabrielle Innes, Trent Paton. Martine
Commissioning Editor Kate Kiely, Alan Murphy Power, Dianne Schall-
Suzannah Shwer meiner, Luna Soo, John
Assisting Cartographers Taufa, Angela Tinson
Julie Dodkins, Mick Garrett,
James Leversha

506 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Index

ABBREVIATIONS trekking 14, 15, 20-1, 74-5, history 56 Ark (Uz) 193
77, 78, 111, 114, 158-9, information 67-9 Beket-Ata (Kaz) 95
Kaz Kazakhstan 251, 266-7, 268-9, registration 68 Burana Tower (Kyr) 252-3
Kyr Kyrgyzstan 272-3, 273-5, 282, 287, shopping 66-7 Elliq-Qala (Uz) 202-3
Taj Tajikistan 305, 317, 325, 327, 363, sights 56-60 Erk Kala (Tur) 390
Tur Turkmenistan 7, 14, 15 tours 61, 68-9 Fayoz-Tepe (Uz) 184
Uz Uzbekistan travel to/from 69-70 Gonur Depe (Tur) 391
wildlife watching 85, 86 travel within 70-1 Ice House (Tur) 390
4WDs 45-6, 48, 313, 368, Afghan Wakhan (Taj) Altay Mountains (Kaz) Kara-Tepe (Uz) 184
486 23, 111 Kyz Kala (Tur) 390
Beket-Ata (Kaz) 95 352, 367 Altyn-Arashan (Kyr) 265-6 Maghoki-Attar (Uz) 191
Pamires, the 338-9 Afghanistan Altyn Asyr Market Mangistau (Kaz) 96-7
Wakhan Valley 350 (Tur) 376-7 Mizdakhan (Uz) 214
border crossings 226, Altyn-Emel National Park Otyrar-Tobe (Kaz) 87
A 348, 352, 367, 404-5 (Kaz) 78 Sauran (Kaz) 89
ALZhIR Museum-Memorial Shakhty (Taj) 355-6
accommodation 462-3, see relations with 428-9 Complex (Kaz) 106 Shakpak-Ata (Kaz) 97
also individual locations visas to 224, 308, 352, amin 474 Sherkala (Kaz) 97
Amir Timur Museum Sultan Epe (Kaz) 97
Achik-Tash (Kyr) 297 366, 403 (Uz) 183 Sultan Kala (Tur) 390-1
activities 24-5, 40-6, see Afrosiab (Uz) 174-5 amoebic dysentery 493 Tamgaly petroglyphs
Aga Khan 361 amusement parks,
also individual locations airlines 479-80, see also see also waterparks (Kaz) 78
bird watching 46, 73, 85, Astana (Kaz) 98 Temir Abdal Ata
individual locations Shymkent (Kaz) 83
86, 107, 126, 186, 258 airports 478-9, see also ancient Khorezm (Uz) 202 cave-shrine (Kaz) 97
camel trekking 43, 186-7, ancient Penjikent (Taj) 331-2 Ulugbek’s Observatory
individual locations Andijon (Uz) 168-9
202-3, 221, 363 air travel 478-82, 485-6, Andijon massacre 161, (Uz) 175
heli-skiing 45, 159, 305 215-16, 429 architectural sites
horse racing 61, 83, see also individual animal market (Kyr) 258-9
locations Anzob Tunnel (Taj) 326 Astana (Kaz) 12, 22,
306, 382 Ak-Baital (White Horse) Aral Sea (Kaz) 22, 91-3, 98-99, 102-3, 100-1,
horse riding 43, 87, 114, Pass (Taj) 356 459-60 2, 12, 23
Akhal-Teke horses 377, Aral Sea (Uz) 22, 212, 213,
124, 186, 257, 274, 304, 399-400, 457 216, 459-60 Ashgabat (Tur) 374-5
324-5, 377 Ak-Saray Palace (Uz) 181-2 Aralsk (Aral) (Kaz) 91-3 Karakol (Kyr) 259
ice skating 71-2 Ak-Suu (Kyr) 297 archaeological sites 23, 357 Khojand (Taj) 335
mountain biking 43-4, 72, Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Samarkand (Uz) 20, 171-6
263, 287 Reserve (Kaz) 85-6, 126 Turkistan (Kaz) 17, 87-9,
mountaineering 44-5, 77, Reserve petroglyphs
78, 251, 263-4, 287, 297, Aktau (Kaz) 93-6, 94 (Kaz) 85 88, 17
305, 329, 363 Aktobe (Kaz) 135 Akyrtas (Kaz) 81 Uralsk (Oral) (Kaz) 135
nut harvesting 287 Akyrtas (Kaz) 81 Altay Mountains (Kaz) 111 architecture 451-4
rafting 44, 114, 159, 233, Ala-Archa Canyon Altyn-Emel National Park highlights 52, 452
305 (Kaz) 78 Islamic 49, 171-3, 189-95,
rock climbing 44-5, 251, (Kyr) 250-2 ancient Khorezm 202-3
297, 305 Alaudin Lakes (Taj) 329 ancient Penjikent (Taj) 205-7. 334, 390-1, 451
sailing 93, 255 Alay Valley (Kyr) 296-7 331-2 Silk Road 20
snow sports 45, 71-2, 159, Alexander the Great 411-12 Soviet 147, 232
267, 287, 305, 326 Almaty (Kaz) 16, 56-71, Ark (Uz) 193
Arslanbob (Kyr) 286-8
Map Pages 000 58-9, 5, 16 arts 446-50, see also
Photo Pages 000 accommodation 62-4 literature, music
activities 60-1
drinking & nightlife 65-6
entertainment 66
festivals & events 61-2
food 64-5

507

Ashgabat (Tur) 22, 374-84, (Tur) 376-7 border crossings 35-9, C INDE X A- C
376-7, 380 Animal Market
accommodation 378-9 38-9, 16 camel trekking 43, 186-7,
activities 377 (Kyr) 258-9 Afghan Wakhan 202-3, 221, 363
drinking & nightlife 381-2 Barakholka (Kaz) 67 Elliq-Qala (Uz) 202-3
entertainment 382 Bazar Samal (Kaz) 82-3 (Taj) 352, 367 Nurata (Uz) 187-8
food 379-81 Bukhara (Uz) 191 Afghanistan 226, 367,
history 374 Central (Upper) Bazaar caravanserais 28, 284-5,
information 382-3 404-5 434, 454, 16
sights 374-7 (Kaz) 81 Azerbaijan 484
travel to/from 383-4 Chorsu Bazaar China 132, 296, 310-11, carpets & textiles 21, 123,
travel within 384 399, 446-7, 15
(Uz) 146-7 367-8, 482, 484 customs 153, 400-1
Asrlar Sadosi Festival 24 Fergana (Uz) 165 Friendship Bridge workshops 179, 198,
Astana Day 103 Green Bazaar (Taj) 317 209-10
Astana (Kaz) 12, 22, Green Market (Kaz) 59 (Uz) 226 museums 191, 374-5
Ishkashim (Taj) 348 Iran 405, 484
98-106, 100-1, 2, Istaravshan (Taj) 334 Irkeshtam Route car travel 482-3, 486-7
12, 23 Jahon Bazaar (Uz) 168 cell phones 18, 476
accommodation 103-4 Kumtepa Bazaar (Kyr) 310 Central Asia highlights
drinking & nightlife 105 issues 298
festivals & events 103 (Uz) 167-8 Kazakhstan 132-3, 226, 8-9, 8-9
food 104-5 Osh Bazaar Central State Museum
information 105 311, 406
sights 98-9, 102-3 (Kyr) 244, 292 Kyrgyzstan 132-3, 226, (Kaz) 56, 67
tours 103 Özgön (Kyr) 289 Central Tian Shan (Kaz)
travel to/from 105-6 Panchshanbe Bazaar 310-11, 368
travel within 106 Mongolia 133 77-8
At Chabysh 353 (Taj) 335 Qolma (Kulma) Pass ceramics 168, 179, see
At Chabysh Horse Shahriston Market
Festival 25 (Taj) 367-8 also tiles
ATMs 471 (Uz) 198 Russia 132, 134-5, 482-4 museums 168
Atyrau (Kaz) 134-5 Shakhristan Market Tajikistan 226-7, 295-6, workshops 179
Ayni (Taj) 329-30 chabysh 306
Azerbaijan (Kaz) 80 311, 348, 352, 356, Char Minar (Uz) 194
border crossings 484 Tezykovka Bazaar 366-8 Charyn Canyon (Kaz) 77
visas to 129, 224, 403 Turkmenistan 133, 227, Chatyr-Köl (Kyr) 285
(Uz) 154 404-6 children, travel with 463-4
B Torugart Route Chimbulak (Kaz) 71-3
Urgut (Uz) 181, 4, 21 (Kyr) 310-11, 284 China
Babur, Zahiruddin 168, Zelyony (Tur) 387 Uzbekistan 133, 226-7, border crossings 132,
291-2, 418, 419 Beket-Ata (Kaz) 95 311, 368, 406
Belogorka Waterfall Western Europe–Western 296, 310-11, 367-8,
Bactria Centre (Taj) 323 (Kyr) 252 China Highway (Kaz) 482, 484
Badai-Tugai Biosphere beshbarmak 465 134, 482 relations with 412, 413,
Bibi-Khanym Mosque bride kidnapping 301 430
Reserve (Uz) 202 (Uz) 173 brucellosis 492 visas to 34, 129, 224,
Badakhshani rubies 348 bird watching 46, 73, budget 19, 53, 138, 229, 308, 366
bargaining 472-3 85, 86, 107, 126, 186, 313, 371 Cholpon-Ata (Kyr) 255-8,
Barskoön (Kyr) 270-1 258 Bukhara (Uz) 11, 187-200,
Bartang Valley (Taj) 342-3 Bishkek (Kyr) 232-50, 188-9, 11, 417 256
bathhouses, 234-5, 240, 250 accommodation 195-7 Chong Ak-Suu Valley
accommodation activities 195
see also springs drinking & nightlife 198 (Kyr) 258
Almaty (Kaz) 60-1 234-9 festivals & events 195 Chong-Kemin Valley
Altyn-Arashan activities 233 food 197
drinking & nightlife history 187-9 (Kyr) 253
(Kyr) 265-6 information 198-9
Bishkek (Kyr) 233 242-3 registration 199 climate 18, 24-5, 18
Bukhara (Uz) 195 entertainment 243 shopping 198 Kazakhstan 52
Baykonur Cosmodrome festivals & sights 189-95 Kyrgyzstan 228
(Kaz) 22, 34, 90 tours 195 Tajikistan 312
events 233-4 travel to/from 199-200 Turkmenistan 370
bazaars 15, 21, 2, 15 history 232 travel within 200 Uzbekistan 137
Alamedin Bazaar information 244-6 Bukhara’s Jews 194
(Kyr) 244 registration 245 Burana Tower climate change 480
Altyn Asyr Market shopping 244 (Kyr) 252-3 community-based tourism
sights 232-3 business hours 19
tours 245-6 bus travel 482-3, 486 15, 20, 47-8, 247, 15
travel to/from 246-9 buzkashi 306, 440 see also homestays,
travel within 249-50 yurtstays
visas 245 Ecotourism Information
black market 223, 471 Resource Centre
Bokonbayevo (Kyr) 272-3 (EIRC) (Kaz) 68
Kochkor (Kyr) 277-8

INDE X C - H508 Dushanbe (Taj) 316-26, Uzbekistan 138 glossary 500-2
community-based tourism Expo 2017 (Kaz) 105 glossary (food) 502-3
continued 318-19 Golden Man (Altyn Adam)
Kyrgyzstan 228 accommodation 317-20 F
Murgab Ecotourism activities 317 62, 103, 411
Association (META) drinking & nightlife 322 Fan Mountains (Taj) 15, Gonur Depe (Tur) 391
(Taj) 354 entertainment 323 326-33, 328-9, 15 Gonur (Tur) 391
Nuratau-Kyzylkum food 321-2 Gozli Ata (Tur) 386
Biosphere Reserve history 316 felt rugs 279, 446-7, 15 Great Game 359, 422-3
(Uz) 186 information 323 Fergana (Uz) 164-7, 166 Great Horde 121, 416-17,
Pamir Eco-Cultural registration 323 Fergana Valley (Uz) 160-9,
Tourism Association shopping 323 435
(PECTA) (Taj) 47 sights 316-17 160 Greig’s tulip 85
Wild Nature (Kaz) 86 tours 323 festivals & events 24-5, Gur-E-Amir Mausoleum
Zerafshan Tourism travel to/from 323-5
Development travel within 325-6 469, 470 (Uz) 174
Association (ZTDA) buzkashi 440 Gutlug Timur Minaret
(Taj) 333 E Kazakhstan 126, 127
Conolly, Captain Arthur 192 Kyrgyzstan 233-4, 258, (Tur) 16, 395, 16
consulates, see embassies economy 408-9, 430,
& consulates see also individual 307, 308 H
courses 233, 323, 470 countries Turkmenistan 401-2
craft 447 Uzbekistan 176 Haft-Kul (Taj) 333
credit cards 471-2 Ecotourism Information Fine Arts Museum of health 490-4, see also 
culture 22, 435-41 Resource Centre (EIRC) Uzbekistan (Uz) 144
Culture Ministry Antiques (Kaz) 68 Fine Arts Museum, dangers, safety
Certification Office Semey (Kaz) 117 heli-skiing 45, 159, 305
(Uz) 153 electricity 465, 473 folk art 446 hepatitis 492
currency 18, see also embassies & consulates food 465-9, 502-3, hiking, see trekking
budget, money, see also individual Hissar (Hisor) Fort
individual locations Kazakhstan 124-6 locations
customs 464 Kyrgyzstan 306-7 food glossary 502-3 (Taj) 326
cycling, see mountain Tajikistan 364-5 fortresses history 410-30, see also 
biking Turkmenistan 401 ancient Khorezm
Uzbekistan 221-2 individual countries
D emergencies 19, 495-6 (UZ) 202 History Museum of the
emergency numbers Bukhara (Uz) 193
dangers, see also health, Kazakhstan 127 Elliq-Qala (Uz) 202-3 People of Uzbekistan
safety Turkmenistan 382 Hissar (Hisor) Fort (Uz) 144
Kazakhstan 67 Uzbekistan 154 hitching 487
Kyrgyzstan 244, 305 environment 455-60 (Taj) 326 HIV 492
Tajikistan 363-4 environmental issues 422, Hulbuk Fortress-Palace homestays 15, 20, 50,
Turkmenistan 382, 401 459-60 462-3, see also 
Uzbekistan 221 Aral Sea (Kaz) 92, (Taj) 341 community-based
Istaravshan (Taj) 334 tourism, yurtstays
Darshai (Taj) 349 459-60 Khaakha Fortress Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature
Darvaza Gas Craters Kazkhstan 124 Reserve (Kaz) 86
Kumtor Gold Mine 303 (Taj) 349 Arslanbob (Kyr) 287-8
(Tur) 22, 385 Kyrgyzstan 303 Khiva (Uz) 205-6 Jizeu Valley (Kyr) 342-3
Dashogus (Tur) 396 nuclear testing 115-16, Khojand (Taj) 335 Kochkor (Kyr) 277
Dawn of Freedom Merv (Tur) 390 Kyrgyzstan 247, 304
118-19, 459 Mizdakhan (Uz) 214 Naryn (Kyr) 282-3
Monument (Kaz) Semey (Semipalatinsk) Sauran (Kaz) 89 Nuratau-Kyzylkum
59-60 Wakhan Valley (Taj) 13, Biosphere Reserve
documents 125, 464 (Kaz) 116, 118-19 (Uz) 186
Dolinka (Kaz) 111-12 Tajikistan 362 350, 4 Pamirs, the (Kyr) 338
Dostoevsky Museum Turkmenistan 400 Yamchun (Zulkhomar) Penjikent (Taj) 333
(Kaz) 116, 421 Erk Kala (Tur) 390 Sayram-Ugam National
Dostoevsky, Fyodor ethnic minorities 439 Fort (Taj) 349 Park (Kaz) 87
116, 420 etiquette 469 Friendship Bridge (Uz) 226 Tajikistan 312
dragon horses 413 events, see festivals & Frunze, Mikhail Vasilievich horse racing 61, 83,
drinking 467-8 events 306, 382
exchange rates 232-3 horse riding 43, 87, 114,
Map Pages 000 Kazakhstan 53 124, 186, 257, 274,
Photo Pages 000 Kyrgyzstan 229 G 304, 324-5, 377
Tajikistan 313 horses, see also horse
Turkmenistan 371 GAI 482 racing, horse riding
Garm (Taj) 324-5 Akhal-Teke 377, 399-400
gay travellers 469 domestication 411
GBAO permit 339, 366, 367 dragon 413
geography 455-6
geology 456
giardiasis 493

509

festivals 24, 353 K parks & reserves 52 Kuhna Ark (Uz) 205-6, 2-3 INDE X H - K
Przewalski’s horses 123, peoples 122, 435-6 Kulob (Taj) 341
Kadji-Sai (Kyr) 272-3 permits 53, 129 Kumtepa Bazaar (Uz) 167-8
263, 458 Kalon Minaret (Uz) 11, planning 52-3 Kumtor (Kyr) 270
sports 25, 306, 440 politics 119-20 kumys 468
20, 192, 11 public holidays 127 Kunanbaev, Abay 117, 120
I Karaganda (Karagandy) registration 127-8 Kurchatov (Kaz) 34, 118-19
religion 123 kurutob 321
ice skating 71-2 (Kaz) 108-11, 109 safety 128 kymys, see kumys
Ichon-Qala (Uz) 20, 205 Karaganda Ecological telephone services 127, Kyrgyzstan 50, 228-311,
IGPA (Issyk-Köl Guides
Museum (Kaz) 109 128-9 230-1
& Porters Karakalpakstan 22, 210-15 tourist information 68 accommodation 228,
Association) 263 travel seasons 52
Ile-Alatau National Karakol (Kyr) 258-64, 260, travel to/from 131-3 304
Park (Kaz) 73 266-7 travel within 136 arts 302-3
immigration 478 accommodation visas to 53, 130-1, 224, border crossings 132-3,
Independence Square 259-62
(Tur) 374 activities 259 309, 403 226, 310-11, 368
India 308-9 drinking & nightlife 262 volunteering 131 climate 228
insurance food 262 weather 52 community-based
car 482-3 information 262-3 Kazakhstan Independence
health 490 shopping 262-3 Day 25 tourism 228, 247, 15
travel 470 sights 258-9 Kazarman (Kyr) 282-3 costs 229
internet access 470, travel to/from 264 Khan, Abylay 107-8 customs 305
see also individual travel within 264 Khan, Chinggis (Genghis) dangers 244, 305
locations 120-1, 397, 416-17, 428 drinking 303-4
internet resources 19, 53, Karakol Valley (Kyr) 266-7 Konye-Urgench (Tur) economics 299
127, 138, 229, 313, 371, Karakul (Taj) 356 embassies & consulates
408, 490 Karakum Desert 16, 394
tours 488 Merv (Tur) 389 306-7
train travel 484 (Tur) 384-5 Otrar (Kaz) 87 environment 303
Iran Karkara Valley (Kaz) 77 exchange rates 229
border crossings 405, Karkara Valley (Kyr) 258 Khan Shatyr (Kaz) 98, 12 festivals & events 258,
484 KarLag Museum Khan’s Palace (Uz) 161-2
visas to 224, 309, 403 287, 307, 308
Irkeshtam Pass (Kaz) 111-12 Khiva (Uz) 12, 203-10, 204, food 303-4
(Kyr) 310 Kazakhstan 49, 52-136, 2-3, 12, 424 highlights 230-1
Isfandiyar Palace accommodation 207-8 history 299-301
(Uz) 207 54-5, 76 drinking 208-9 internet access 307
Isfara (Taj) 337 accommodation 124 entertainment 209 internet resources 229
Ishkashim (Taj) 348-9 activities 124 food 208-9 itineraries 229
Iskander-Kul (Taj) 326-8 architecture 52 history 203-4 language 497
Islam 414, 442-5 arts 123 information 210 money 308
Istaravshan (Taj) 334-5 border crossings 132-5, shopping 209-10 peoples 301-2, 436-7
itineraries 26-30, 26-30 sights 204-7 permits 34, 229, 308
Kazakhstan 53 226, 311, 406 tours 207 planning 228-9
Kyrgyzstan 229 climate 52 travel to/from 210 politics 299
Tajikistan 313 costs 53 public holidays 308
Turkmenistan 371 culture 122 Khojand (Taj) 335-7, 336 registration 308
Uzbekistan 138 customs 124 Khorezm (Uz) 22, religion 302
dangers 67 safety 305
J drinking & nightlife 127 200-10, 201 tourist information 245,
economy 119-20 Khorog (Taj) 343-7, 344
Jafr (Taj) 325 embassies & consulates Kochkor (Kyr) 276-8, 277 263, 295
Jalal-Abad (Kyr) 288-9 Kokand (Uz) 161-4, 162-3 travel seasons 228
jekai 254 124-6 Kök-Jaiyk (Kyr) 268-9 travel to/from 309-11
Jeti-Öghüz (Kyr) 267-70 environment 123-4 Kolsay Lakes (Kaz) 76-7 travel within 311
Jewish quarters exchange rates 53 Köl-Ükök (Kyr) 278 visas to 129, 224, 229,
festivals & events Konye-Urgench (Tur) 16,
Bukhara (Uz) 194 308-9, 403
Samarkand (Uz) 175 126, 127 393-6, 16 weather 228
Jizeu Valley (Taj) 342-3 food 127 Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve Kyrgyzstan Independence
highlights 54-5 Day 25
history 120-2 (Kaz) 107 Kyz Kala (Tur) 390
internet access 127 Koshoy Korgon (Kyr) 284 kyz-kumay 306
internet resources Köw Ata Underground Kyzylorda (Kaz) 90-1

53, 127 Lake (Tur) 385-6
itineraries 53
language 496-7
money 127

INDE X L- M510 malaria 492 Yasaui (Kaz) 88, 17 Jami Mosque Museum
Manas Air Base 299 Medeu (Kaz) 71-3 (Uz) 163
L Mangistau (Kaz) 96-7 media 221, 473
maps 471 medical services 491-2, see Jome Mosque (Uz) 168
labour camps Marco Polo sheep 362, 456 Juma Mosque, Khiva
Dolinka (Kaz) 111-12 Margeb (Taj) 329 also emergencies
Malinovka (Kaz) 106 Margilon (Uz) 167-8 medressas 453 (Uz) 206
markets, see bazaars Juma Mosque, Tashkent
labour camps continued Mary Regional Museum Abdul Aziz Khan
Spassk (Kaz) 112 Medressa (Uz) 192 (Uz) 147
(Tur) 386-7 Kalon Mosque (Uz) 192
laghman 465 Allakuli Khan Medressa Maghoki-Attar (Uz) 191
Lake Burabay (Kaz) 107-8 Mary (Tur) 386-8, 387 (Uz) 206 Mangistau (Kaz) 96-7
Lake Issyk-Köl mausoleums 453 Narbutabey Mosque
Islom-Hoja Medressa
Northern Issyk-Köl Abdul-Aziz Baba (Uz) 207 (Uz) 162
254-70 (Kaz) 85 Nur Astana Mosque
Kulkedash Medressa
Southern Issyk-Köl Abu Bakr Kaffal (Uz) 147 (Kaz) 99
270-3 Shoshi (Uz) 147 Shakpak-Ata (Kaz) 97
Mir-i-Arab Medressa Shopan-Ata (Kaz) 95
lakes Al-Hakim al-Termizi (Uz) 192-3 Sultan Epe (Kaz) 97
Alaudin Lakes (Taj) 329 (Uz) 184 mountain biking 43-4, 72,
Haft-Kul (Taj) 333 Mohammed Rakhim 263, 287
Kara-Kul (Taj) 356 Aristan-Bab (Kaz) 87 Khan Medressa mountaineering 44-5, 77,
Kolsay Lakes (Kaz) 76-7 Aysha-Bibi (Kaz) 81 (Uz) 206 78, 251, 263-4, 287, 297,
Köw Ata Underground Babazha-Khatun 305, 329, 363
Lake (Tur) 385-6 Nadir Divanbegi Moynaq (Uz) 214-15
Lake Burabay (Kaz) (Kaz) 81 Medressa (Uz) 191 Mug Teppe (Taj) 334
107-8 Bibi-Khanym Muqimi, Mohammedamin
Lake Issyk-Köl (Kyr) Registan (Uz) 171-3, 21 163
253-73 Mausoleum (Uz) 173 Sahib Mian Hazrat Murgab Ecotourism
Lake Sarez (Taj) 343 Chashma Ayub Association (META)
Lake Song-Köl (Kyr) 14, Medressa (Uz) 163 (Taj) 354
273-6, 14 Mausoleum (Uz) 193 Ulugbek Medressa Murgab (Taj) 353-5
Ozero Bolshoe Almatin- Dauitbek (Kaz) 80 Museum of Fine Arts
skoe (Kaz) 73 Dorut Tilyovat (Uz) 182 (Bukhara, Uz) 191, 417 (Tur) 374
Gozli Ata (Tur) 386 Merv (Tur) 388-91 museums & galleries
Lake Sarez (Taj) 343 Gur-E-Amir Mausoleum minarets 453, see also Afrosiab Museum
Lake Song-Köl (Kyr) 14,
(Uz) 174 mosques (Uz) 174
273-6, 14 Il-Arslan (Tur) 395 Burana Tower Aktau regional museum
Langar (Taj) 350-1 Ishratkhana Mausoleum
language 495-503 (Kyr) 252-3 (Kaz) 93
(Uz) 175-6 Gutlug Timur Minaret Amir Timur Museum
courses 233, 323, 470 Ismail Samani
Pamiri 361 (Tur) 16, 395, 16 (Uz) 183
legal matters 470 Mausoleum (Uz) 193 Kalta Minor (Uz) Carpet Museum
leishmaniasis 492 Karakhan (Kaz) 80
lesbian travellers 469 Karashash-Ana (Kaz) 85 206, 2-3 (Tur) 374-5
Letters of Invitation 32-3, Khazrati-Imam Complex Kalon Minaret 11, Central State Museum
367, see also permits,
registration, visas (Uz) 182 20, 192, 11 (Kaz) 56
Kazakhstan 130 Kokand (Uz) 162 mines Dostoevsky Museum
Kyrgyzstan 309 Mazor-i-Sharif (Taj) 331
Tajikistan 367 Mirali Bobo (Kaz) 85 ruby 348 (Kaz) 116, 421
Turkmenistan 404 Mohammed ibn Zeid gold 270, 303 Fayzulla Khojaev House
Uzbekistan 225 Mizdakhan (Uz) 214
literature 408, 413, 447-9, (Tur) 390 mobile phones 18, 476 (Uz) 194
see also individual Nejameddin Kubra money 18, 19, 53, 138, 223, Fine Arts Museum of
countries 229, 313, 371, 471-3
Lyabi-Hauz (Uz) 189-90 (Tur) 394 moneychanging 472 Uzbekistan (Uz) 144
Pahlavon Mahmud Mongolia Historical-Cultural-
M border crossings 132
Mausoleum (Uz) 207 Mongols 120-1, 299-300, Ethnographic Centre
Madiyan Valley (Taj) 355 Rabigha-Sultan 389, 394, 416-17 (Kaz) 88
Maghoki-Attar (Uz) 191 mosques 452-3, 477, see History Museum of the
Begum (Kaz) 89 also minarets People of Uzbekistan
Map Pages 000 Sheikh Massal ad-Din Beket-Ata (Kaz) 95 (Uz) 144
Photo Pages 000 Bibi-Khanym Mosque Karaganda Ecological
(Taj) 335 Museum (Kaz) 109
Sheikhantaur (Uz) 173 Karakol regional
Central Mosque (Kaz) 60 museum 259
Mausoleum Complex Hazrat-Hizr Mosque KarLag Museum
(Uz) 139 (Kaz) 111-12
Sultan Sanjar (Tur) 390 (Uz) 175 Kazakh Museum of Folk
Sultan Tekesh (Tur) 395 Hazroti Imom Friday
Tomb of the Old
Testament Prophet mosque (Uz) 147
Daniel (Uz) 174-5 Hilvet (Kaz) 89
Two Askhab (Tur) 390 Hoja Zayniddin Mosque

(Uz) 195

511

Musical Instruments (Taj) 316 activities 292 Navoi Park (Uz) 147 INDE X M - P
(Kaz) 57 National Nuclear Centre drinking 293-4 Panfilov Park (Kaz) 57
Kazakhstan History food 293-4 Park Zhastar (Kaz) 113
Museum (Kaz) 102 (Kaz) 118 history 289, 291 photography 473
Kazakhstan Museum of national parks & reserves information 294-5 passports 125
Arts (Kaz) 57, 59 shopping 294 Peak Lenin (Kyr) 297
Konye-Urgench Museum 52, 458, see also parks sights 291-2 PECTA (Pamirs Ecotourism
(Tur) 394 & gardens travel to/from 295-6 Association Information
Kyzylorda regional Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature travel within 296 Centre) 346
museum (Kaz) 90 Reserve (Kaz) 85-6, Osman Quran 147, 445
Moyie Mubarek Library 126 Otrar (Kaz) 87 Penjikent (Taj) 331-4, 331
Museum (Uz) 147 Ala-Archa State Nature Ozero Bolshoe people 435-41
Museum of Applied Arts Park (Kyr) 251-2 Almatinskoe Area permits 31-4, see
(Uz) 207 Altyn-Emel National (Kaz) 73-5
Museum of Carpets Park (Kaz) 78 Özgön (Kyr) 289 also visas, Letters of
(Uz) 191 Badai-Tugai Biosphere Invitation, registration
Museum of Fine Arts Reserve (Uz) 202 P Kazakhstan 53, 129
(Tur) 374 Burabay National Kyrgyzstan 229, 305,
Museum of the First Nature Park (Kaz) painting 449-50 308
President (Kaz) 103 107-8 Pakistan 224 Pamirs, the (Taj) 339,
Museum of Victims of Chong-Kemin Valley Palace of Independence 346
Political Repression (Kyr) 253 Peak Lenin (Kyr) 297
(Kaz) 82 Ile-Alatau National (Kaz) 99, 102 Tajikistan 313, 366
National Museum, Park (Kaz) 73 Palace of Peace & Accord Tian Shan (Kyr) 272-3,
Ashgabat (Tur) 375 Karakol Valley 7, 14
National Museum, (Kyr) 266-7 (Kaz) 99 trekking 41-2
Dushanbe (Taj) 316 Korgalzhyn Nature Pamir Eco-Cultural Tourism Turkmenistan 371, 403
National Museum Reserve (Kaz) 107 Uzbekistan 138, 224
of Antiquities of Nuratau-Kyzylkum Association (PECTA) petroglyphs 411
Tajikistan (Taj) 316 Biosphere Reserve (Taj) 47 Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature
Presidential Cultural (Uz) 186 Pamir Highway (Taj) 17, Reserve (Kaz) 85
Centre (Kaz) 103 Sayram-Ugam National 351-6, 5, 17 Cholpon-Ata (Kyr) 256
Rishton Ceramic Park (Kaz) 86-7 Pamiri people 361 Langar (Taj) 350-1
Museum (Uz) 168 Tajik National Park Pamirs, the (Taj) Nurata (Uz) 186
Rudaki Museum (Taj) 346, 354, 356 23, 338-56, 340-1 Sailmaluu Tash (Kyr) 283
(Taj) 332 Ugam-Chatkal National Bartang Valley 342-3 Tamgaly (Kaz) 78
Savitsky Museum Park (Uz) 158-60 Petropavlovsk (Petropavl)
(Uz) 211-12 Zapadno-Altaysky Khorog 343-7, 344 (Kaz) 135
Shymkent regional (Western Altay) Murgab 353-5 planning
museum (Kaz) 82 Nature Reserve Pamir Highway 17, 20 activities 40-6
State Historical (Kaz) 114 budgeting 18-19
Museum (Kyr) 232 natural reources 430 351-6, 5, 17 calendar of events 24-5
State Museum of Navrus 24, 470 permits 339, 346 Central Asia basics 18-19
Fine Arts (Kyr) 232 Nazarbaev, Nursultan planning 339 Central Asia regions
Taraz regional museum 119-20, 122 registration 346 49-50
(Kaz) 79 Niyazov, Saparmyrat Shokh Dara Valley
Termiz Archaeological (Turkmenbashi) 398 climate 18-19, 18
Museum (Uz) 183-4 Nodira 164 347-8 community-based
music 448, 449 nomadic empire 411 travel to/from 338-9
nomads 22 travel within 338-9 tourism 47-8, 15
N noz, see nasvai Wakhan Valley (Taj) internet resources 18-19
nuclear testing 116, 118-19 itineraries 26-30, 48,
Namadgut (Taj) 349 Nukus (Uz) 210-14 13, 348-51, 4, 13
Naryn (Kyr) 280-2, 281 Nurata (Uz) 186-7 parks & gardens, see also 26-30
nasvai 465 Nuratau-Kyzylkum Kazakhstan 52-3
nasvar, see nasvai Biosphere Reserve national parks Kyrgyzstan 228-9
naswar, see nasvai (Uz) 186 & reserves Tajikistan 312-13
National Museum, Botanical Gardens travel seasons 18-19,
O (Taj) 317
Ashgabat (Tur) 375 Central (Gorky) Park 24-5
National Museum, opening hours 19 (Kaz) 60 Turkmenistan 370-1
opium 358 City Park (Kaz) 98 Uzbekistan 137-8
Dushanbe (Taj) 316 Osh Bazaar (Kyr) 292 Dubovy (Oak) Park plov 150, 465
National Museum of Osh (Kyr) 289-96, 290 (Uz) 232 police 125
Independence Park politics 408-9, see also 
Antiquities of Tajikistan accommodation 292-3 (Tur) 375 individual countries
Kok-Tobe (Kaz) 57
Levoberezhny Park
(Kaz) 113

512

INDE X P-T population 409, see Rushan (Vomar) (Taj) 342 Sheikhantaur Mausoleum festivals & events 365
also individual Russia Complex (Uz) 139 food 321, 362-3
countries highlights 314-15
border crossings 132, ship cemetery history 358-60
postal services 473 134-5, 482-4 Kazakhstan 91 internet access 365
Presidential Cultural Uzbekistan 215 internet resources 313
language 495-6 itineraries 313
Centre (Kaz) 103 relations with 121-2, Shokh Dara Valley language 498
Przewalski, Nikolai 259, (Taj) 347-8 Letters of Invitation 367
203-4, 217-18, 299, literature 363
263 300, 359-60, 397-8, Shymkent (Kaz) 81-4, 82 money 365
Przewalski’s horses 123, 421, 423-9, 443-4 shyrdaks 279, 446-7, 15 people 13, 360, 361, 437
visas to 129, 224-5, 309 silk factory (Uz) 167-8 permits 34, 313, 366
263, 458 Silk Road, the 20, 421, planning 312-13
Pshart Valley (Taj) 355 S politics 356-8
public holidays 469 431-4, 484, 432-3, 412 public holidays 365
safety 19, 474-5, see Skazka Valley (Kyr) 272 registration 366
Kazakhstan 127 also dangers, health slavery 203 safety 363-4
Kyrgyzstan 308 Kazakhstan 128 snow leopards 457 telephone services 366
Tajikistan 365 Kyrgyzstan 244, 305 snow sports 45, 46, 71-2, tourist information
Turkmenistan 401-2 Tajikistan 363-4
Uzbekistan 222 Turkmenistan 382, 401 159, 267, 287, 305, 326 346, 354
Uzbekistan 221 Sokuluk Canyon (Kyr) 252 travel seasons 312
Q Soviet Union, see Russia travel to/from 366-8
sailing 93, 255, see also Spassk (Kaz) 112 travel within 368, 369
Qolma (Kulma) Pass 367-8 rafting sport 306 visas to 130, 225, 309,
Quran 442-3, 445 springs, see also
qymyz, see kumys Sailmaluu Tash (Kyr) 283 313, 367, 403
Samanid dynasty 120, 217, bathhouses weather 312
R Bibi Fatima Springs wildlife 362
358, 414 Tajikistan Independence
rabies 492 Samarkand (Uz) 11, 169-81, (Taj) 349 Day 25
rafting 44, 114, 159, 233, Chashma Spring Tamchy (Kyr) 255
170-1, 10-11 Tamga (Kyr) 270, 271
305, see also sailing accommodation 176-8 (Uz) 186 Tamgaly petroglyphs
Rang-Kul (Taj) 355 drinking 178-9 Madiyan (Taj) 355 (Kaz) 78
Rasht Valley (Taj) 324-5 festivals & events 176 State Historical Museum
Registan (Uz) 20, 171-3 food 178-9 (Kyr) 232 Taraz (Kaz) 79-81, 79
registration 473, see history 169-70 State Museum of Fine Tashkent (Uz) 139-58,
information 180 Arts (Kyr) 232
also Letters of registration 180 Stoddart, Colonel 142-3, 157, 159
Invitation, permits, shopping 179 Charles 192 accommodation 147-9
visas sights 170-6 street names, 57, 233 drinking & nightlife 152
Ashgabat (Tur) 383 tours 176 Sufism 444-5 entertainment 152-3
Bishkek (Kyr) 245 travel to/from 180-1 Sultan Epe (Kaz) 97 food 150-2
Bukhara (Uz) 199 travel within 181 Sultan Kala (Tur) 390-1 history 139
Kazakhstan 68, 127-8 Sarvoda (Taj) 328-9 information 154-5
Kyrgyzstan 308 Sary-Mogol (Kyr) 296-7 T registration 155
Pamirs, the (Taj) 346 Sary Tash (Kyr) 296 shopping 153-4
Samarkand (Uz) 180 Sarytag (Taj) 327-8 Tajikistan 50, 312-69, sights 139, 144-7
Tajikistan 323, 366 Sauran (Kaz) 89 tours 155
Turkmenistan 383, 402 Savitsky Museum 314-15 travel to/from 155-7
Uzbekistan 155, 222-4 (Uz) 211-12 accommodation 312, travel within 157-8
religion 408-9, 414, 442-5, Sayram (Kaz) 84-5 visas 155
see also Islam, Sufism, Sayram-Ugam National 363 Tash Rabat (Kyr) 16, 20,
individual countries Park (Kaz) 86 activities 363 284-5, 16
responsible travel 473-4 sea travel 484 arts 360-2 taxis 158, 487
Ridder (Kaz) 114 Semey (Semipalatinsk) border crossings 226-7, tea 469
Rishton (Uz) 168 (Kaz) 115-18, 116 telephone services
road names 57, 233 Seven Bulls (Kyr) 268 295-6, 311, 348, 352, 18, 475-6, see also
rock climbing 44-5, 251, Shah-i-Zinda (Uz) 20, 173, 356, 366-8 individual locations
297, 305 climate 312 Termiz Archaeological
Roof of the World 10-11 costs 313 Museum (Uz) 183-4
Festival 25 Shaimak (Taj) 355 culture 356-8
Shakhrisabz (Uz) dangers 363-4
Map Pages 000 drinking & nightlife
Photo Pages 000 181-3, 182 362-3
Shakhty (Taj) 355-6 economy 356-8
Shakpak-Ata (Kaz) 97 embassies & consulates
shashlyk 465 364-5
environment 362
exchange rates 313

513

Termiz (Uz) 183-6 train travel 483-4, 488-9 Saparmyrat) 398 Samarkand (Uz) 170, INDE X T- U
textiles, see carpets transport 478-89, see also Turkmenbashi (Tur) 385 173, 174, 175
Turkmenistan 50,
& textiles individual countries Shakhrisabz (Uz)
Tian Shan Astronomical travel documents 125, 464 370-406, 372-3 181-3, 182
travel insurance 470 accommodation
Observatory (Kaz) 73-4 travellers’ diarrhoea 493 underground mosques
travel seasons 370, 400 Beket-Ata (Kaz) 95
Tian Shan (Kyr) 272-3, 7 activities 400 Hilvet (Kaz) 89
tiles 451, 454, see also Kazakhstan 52 arts 399 Mangistau (Kaz) 96-7
Kyrgyzstan 228 border crossings Shakpak-Ata (Kaz) 97
ceramics Tajikistan 312 Shopan-Ata (Kaz) 95
Timur (Tamerlane) 49, Turkmenistan 370 133, 227, 404-6 Sultan Epe (Kaz) 97
Uzbekistan 137 climate 370
417-18, 445, 451-2 travel to/from Central Asia costs 371 Unesco World Heritage
Konye-Urgench (Tur) 478-85, see also  customs 400-1 Sites 452
individual countries, dangers 382, 401
16, 394 visas drinking & nightlife Uralsk (Oral) (Kaz) 135
Otrar (Kaz) 87 travel within Central Asia Urgench (Uz) 200-2
Samarkand (Uz) 19, 485-9, see also  400
individual countries economics 396-7 Urgut (Uz) 181, 4, 21
11, 173, 174 Letters of Invitation, embassies & Ust-Kamenogorsk
Shakhrisabz (Uz) 181-2 permits, registration
Turkistan (Kaz) 17, 87-90, trekking 14, 15, 20-1, 40-3, consulates 401 (Oskemen) (Kaz)
Timurid dynasty 417-18 14, 15 environment 399-400 112-15, 112
tipping 472-3 Ala-Archa Canyon exchange rates 371 Uzbekistan 49, 137-227,
toilets 476 festivals & events
Torugart Pass (Kyr) (Kyr) 251 140-1
284, 310-11, 284 Almaty (Kaz) 74-5 401-2 accommodation 137, 221
Tosor (Kyr) 271-2 Altay Mountains food 370, 400 activities 221
tourist information 476, highlights 372-3 arts 220
see also individual (Kaz) 111 history 397-8 black market 223
locations Arslanbob (Kyr) 287 internet access 402 border crossings
Kazakhstan 68 Central Tian Shan internet resources
Kyrgyzstan 245, 263, 133, 226-7, 311, 368,
(Kaz) 78, 272-3 371 406
295 Dushanbe (Taj) 317 itineraries 371 climate 137
Tajikistan 333, 346, 354 Fan Mountains language 498-9 costs 138
Uzbekistan 180, 210 literature 398 dangers 221
tours 488 (Taj) 15, 327 media 400 drinking 220-1
Almaty (Kaz) 61, 68-9 Jafr (Taj) 325 money 402 economy 215-17
Altay Mountains Karakol (Kyr) 266-7, peoples 399, 437-8 embassies
permits 371, 403 & consulates 221-2
(Kaz) 111 268-9 planning 370-1 environment 220
Aral Sea (Uz) 212 Karkara Valley (Kaz) 77 politics 396-7 exchange rates 138
Aralsk (Kaz) 91 Kyrgyzstan 305 public holidays 401-2 festivals & events 222
Beket-Ata (Kaz) 95 Lake Song-Köl (Kyr) registration 383, 402 food 137, 220-1
Bukhara (Uz) 195 religion 399 highlights 140-1
Darvaza Gas Craters 14, 273-5 safety 401 history 217-20
Naryn (Kyr) 282 telephone services internet access 222
(Tur) 385 Tajikistan 363 internet resources 138
Dolinka (Kaz) 112 Tian Shan (Kyr) 272-3, 383, 402 itineraries 138
Dushanbe (Taj) 323 Ugam-Chatkal National tours 402-3 language 499
Khiva (Uz) 207 travel seasons 370 media 221, 307
Korgalzhyn Nature Park (Uz) 158-9 travel to/from 404-6 money 222
Zapadno-Altaysky travel within 406 people 18-19, 219,
Reserve (Kaz) 107 visas to 130, 225, 438-9
Kurchatov (Kaz) 118-19 (Western Altay) permits 138, 224
Kyrgyzstan 245-6 Nature Reserve 371, 403, 404-5 planning 137-8
Mangistau (Kaz) 96-7 (Kaz) 114 weather 370 politics 215-17
Samarkand (Uz) 176 Zerafshan Mountains Turkmenistan public holidays 222
Sailmaluu Tash (Kyr) 283 (Taj) 327 Independence Day 25 registration 222-4
silk factory 167 tuberculosis 492 typhoid 492 religion 219
Spassk (Kaz) 112 TUK (Trekking Union of safety 221
Turkmenistan 402-3 Kyrgyzstan) 245-6 U telephone services 224
wildlife 126, 356 Turabeg Khanym Complex travel seasons 137
Yangykala Canyon (Tur) 394-5 Ugam-Chatkal National travel to/from 225-7
Turkistan (Kaz) 17, 87-90, Park (Uz) 158-60 travel within 227
(Tur) 386 88, 17
Zapadno-Altaysky Turkmenabat (Tur) 392-3, Ulugbek 418
Bukhara (Uz) 191
(Western Altay) 392
Nature Reserve Turkmenbashi (Niyazov,
(Kaz) 114

514

Uzbekistan contiinued to Tajikistan 309 W Yasaui, Kozha Akhmed
visas to 130, 138, 224-5, to Uzbekistan 309 84, 87-8
309, 366, 403 visas (Taj) 130, 225, 309, Wakhan Valley (Taj)
weather 137 313, 367, 403, see also  13, 348-51, 4, 13 Yasaui Mausoleum
Letters of Invitation, (Kaz) 15, 88, 17
Uzbekistan Independence permits, registration Wakhani, Mubarak
Day 25 to Afghanistan 352, 366 Kadam 350 Younghusband, Francis
to China 366 422-3
INDE X U -Z V to Uzbekistan 366 waterparks, see
visas (Tur) 130, 225, 371, also amusement parks yurtstays 15, 20, 463, see
vaccinations 491 403, 404-5, see also  Almaty (Kaz) 60 also community-based
vegetarians & vegans Letters of Invitation, Dushanbe (Taj) 317 tourism, homestays
permits, registration Nurek Reservoir Kyrgyzstan 228, 304
321, 469 to Afghanistan 403 (Taj) 326 Lake Song-Köl (Kyr) 14,
video 473 to Azerbaijan 403 274-5, 14
visas 18, 31-4, see also to Iran 403 weather 18, 24-5, 18 Nurata (Uz) 186
to Kazakhstan 403 Kazakhstan 52 Tash Rabat (Kyr) 16, 20,
individual countries, to Kyrgyzstan 403 Kyrgyzstan 228 284-5, 16
Letters of Invitation, to Tajikistan 403 Tajikistan 312
permits, registration to Uzbekistan 403 Turkmenistan 370 Z
visas (Kaz) 53, 130-1, 224, visas (Uz) 130, 138, 224-5, Uzbekistan 137
309, 403, see also  309, 366, 403, see also  Zapadno-Altaysky (Western
Letters of Invitation, Letters of Invitation, Western Europe–Western Altay) Nature Reserve
permits, registration permits, registration China Highway (Kaz) (Kaz) 114
to Azerbaijan 129 to Afghanistan 224 134, 482
to China 129 to Azerbaijan 224 Zerafshan Mountains
to Kyrgyzstan 129 to China 224 wildlife 24-5, 456-8 (Taj) 326-33
to Russia 129 to Iran 224 Kazakhstan 123, 126
to Tajikistan 130 to Kazakhstan 224 Kyrgyzstan 303 Zerafshan Tourism
to Turkmenistan 130 to Kyrgyzstan 224 Tajikistan 362 Development
to Uzbekistan 130 to Pakistan 224 Turkmenistan 399-400 Association (ZTDA)
visas (Kyr) 129, 224, 229, to Russia 224-5 Uzbekistan 220 (Taj) 333
308-9, 403, see also  to Tajikistan 225
Letters of Invitation, to Turkmenistan 225 Wild Nature (Kaz) 86 Zerafshan Valley (Taj)
permits, registration volunteering 131, 476 women travellers 477 330-1
to Afghanistan 308 Vrang (Taj) 350 work 477
to China 308 Zhungarians 419-20
to India 308-9 Y Zong (Taj) 350
to Iran 309 Zoroaster 391
to Kazakhstan 309 Yagnob Valley (Taj) 329 Zoroastrianism 391, 444
to Russia 309 Yamchun (Taj) 349
Yamg (Taj) 350
Yangykala Canyon

(Tur) 386

Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000

515 N O T E S

516 NOTES

517 N O T E S

518 NOTES

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 519

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes

Beach Bank Tollway
Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway
Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary
Castle/Palace Internet Secondary
Christian Police Tertiary
Confucian Post Office Lane
Hindu Telephone Unsealed road
Islamic Toilet Road under construction
Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall
Jewish Other Information Steps
Monument Tunnel
Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass
Ruin Walking Tour
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Beach Walking Tour detour
Shinto Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail
Sikh Lighthouse
Taoist Lookout Boundaries
Winery/Vineyard Mountain/Volcano
Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Oasis International
Other Sight Park State/Province
Pass Disputed
Activities, Picnic Area Regional/Suburb
Courses & Tours Waterfall Marine Park
Cliff
Bodysurfing Population Wall
Diving/Snorkelling
Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (National) Hydrography
Course/Tour Capital (State/Province)
Skiing City/Large Town River, Creek
Snorkelling Town/Village Intermittent River
Surfing Canal
Swimming/Pool Transport
Walking Water
Windsurfing Airport
Other Activity Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Bus
Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Reef
Cycling
Sleeping Ferry Areas
Camping Metro station
Monorail Airport/Runway
Eating Parking
Petrol station Beach/Desert
Eating Subway station
Taxi Cemetery (Christian)
Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway
Tram Cemetery (Other)
Drinking & Nightlife Underground station
Cafe Other Transport Glacier

Entertainment Note: Not all symbols displayed above Mudflat
appear on the maps in this book
Entertainment Park/Forest

Shopping Sight (Building)

Shopping Sportsground

Swamp/Mangrove

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORY

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and
Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook
should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS

Bradley Mayhew
Coordinating Author Since first penning the Odyssey Guide to Uzbekistan in 1995,
Bradley has travelled to almost every corner of Central Asia. This is the fifth time he
has coordinated this title. Bradley is the co-author of Lonely Planet guides to Tibet,
Nepal and Bhutan, as well as several guides to the Silk Road. He has lectured on
Uzbekistan to the Royal Geographical Society and in 2009 travelled from Venice to
China in the footsteps of Marco Polo for a five-part Arte/SWR documentary film. An
expat Brit, Bradley currently lives in Yellowstone County, Montana. See what Bradley is up to at www.
bradleymayhew.blogspot.com.

Mark Elliott
Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan Back in 1994 Mark Elliott first stumbled into Central Asia with
an out-of-date USSR map, a two-day transit visa and the crazy plan of writing a back-
packer’s guidebook. That guide grew to cover most of the continent, and left Mark
with an abiding fascination for the Kyrgyz jailoos and a growing tolerance to vodka.
He’s since driven, hitched, ridden and hiked across most of the region but still feels
that the mountain republics, Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, are the area’s true gems.

Tom Masters
Uzbekistan Tom has been travelling in Central Asia since his student days in Russia,
and his fascination with the region grew even further when working at the BBC Cen-
tral Asian & Caucasus Service after finishing his degree. For this edition of Central
Asia, Tom researched Uzbekistan and had a fascinating journey from Tashkent to
Moynaq and back again, seeing just how much has changed in the decade since he
first visited ‘the big three’ now that international tourism seems to have arrived for
good. Tom lives in Berlin and can be found online at www.tommasters.net.

John Noble
Kazakhstan John, from England, has been visiting and travelling in Kazakhstan since
the early post-Soviet years and has witnessed a quantum leap both in the lifestyles
of the country’s luckier citizens and in facilities and opportunities for travellers –
even backpacker hostels now! Top moments of this latest trip: discovering the
less-visited western end of Aksu Canyon in Sayram-Ugam National Park and finally
getting inside Astana’s Khan Shatyr. Wish list: better intercity buses and the
reopening of the Kazakhstan–Kyrgyzstan ‘green border’.
Turkmenistan We have chosen not to name the author of our Turkmenistan chapter as revealing
their identity would put certain people inside Turkmenistan at risk.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-
6th edition – May 2014 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about
the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-
ISBN 978 1 74179 953 8 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
© Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 2014

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

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