Spring 2023
No. 114
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Magazine No. 114 Spring 2023
CONTENTS Page
View from the Chair 2
Check out the digital version for enhanced content
Editorial 4
Secretary’s Report 6
SOA Accounts 9
New Members 12
Ditch fixed mast route (part2) 13
Povoa de Varzim 22
UK Circumnavigation 23
DIY Refurbing the Keel 32
Hightime to the Netherlands 38
Why join the SOA handout 47
Cool it 49
Beaulieu to La Rochelle (and back) 53
Vela spirit Transfer 56
Latest from Calor Gas 62
Southerly up keel time 63
SOA Notice Board 65
Southerly up keel time Answers 67
Southerly Owners Association committee 68
DISCLAIMER – all statements herein are made in good faith but no responsibility of any kind for their validity can be
accepted by the authors, the Editors or other members of the Association. In particular, owners are strongly advised
to consult their insurers to establish whether any modification of a boat would prejudice the cover provided.
COPYRIGHT SOUTHERLY OWNERS’ ASSOCIATION
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View From the Chair
Writing the bi-annual Chairman’s missive known in Committee circles as
VFTC reminds me that we are lucky to have members who will undertake
the duties of the SOA Committee. These roles, whilst not being arduous do
take some time and means that this band of volunteers does deliver a
genuine and needed service to the Southerly Community.
Most members interact with the SOA via the Forum and to a lesser extent,
the Facebook page. Yet we have been seeking somebody to take on the role
of IT co-ordinator for some while now. Nick Boxall and I split the duties but
would hugely welcome somebody to take on the role fully.
I feel very lucky that I am writing this VFTC from the navigation station of
Dutch Courage which arrived this morning in the stunning town of
Cartagena in Spain (and very warm it is too!). I will then send the completed
text via email to Nick & Ali who are enjoying (or possibly enduring) the
weather in North East Scotland. They will then put together the Spring
edition magazine from their boat using this and other member’s
contributions and send the magazine all over the world to our membership
(also available online).
I have now been Chairman since (I think) 2013 and wonder if new blood
could bring some fresh ideas to the role. Our Treasurer, David Thomas (who
is a Past Chairman as well) has been in the role of Treasurer since 2013 and
is seeking to step down. No replacement came forward in time for the
AGM, despite pleas last year in the Magazine and Web sites.
Vice Chairman Derrick has always supported me in my role but has made it
clear from the start that he does not seek to take over the role as Chairman.
If you attended the AGM in March at the Royal Maritime Club in
Portsmouth, you would have already heard me outlining these issues.
Following that, a member did come forward and say that he may be able to
assist in the IT role. Moving that forward means that I need to jot down the
roles that require covering and seeing which of those roles the member
would wish to undertake. However, I have not yet done that as I am sailing
this month and writing this VFTC (see the problem ?).
We have been very lucky in that Minh Tran stepped forward to take on the
role of Membership Secretary. We have just gone through the 2023-24
renewal season when we need to process hundreds of standing order
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View From The Chair
receipts which largely come in over 2 days (the balance of members pay via
PayPal). As members, we would really encourage you to check the details
that are held on your membership record and update them if required. As
the IT systems have developed since 2012, it is possible that the email
addresses recorded on the MemberMojo record for you differ from the
email that you recorded in your Forum Profile (they are 2 separate
systems). Please check both systems and bring them up to date, it will help
us greatly. Whilst at it, if you pay by standing order please check the
reference that you use as we get some really odd ones which delay the
processing of membership renewals. We would like to see the reference on
the standing order as the surname and initials (or first name) of the main
SOA member (no need for boat name).
Whilst checking your MemberMojo record, you may like to download and
print a membership card for the current subscription period. This will be
required if negotiating a discount in advance of a contract with Northshore
Shipyard or claiming the discount available for berthing at Premier Marinas.
You can access your SOA MemberMojo record by entering
https://membermojo.co.uk/soa/signin
into a browser. If you have not yet set up a password, enter the email
address we hold and a link will be sent to you to allow login and checking
your details (and setting up a password). If there is doubt over which email
we hold (for those with several), email [email protected] and
we will confirm.
To check your Forum details, login to the Forum in the usual way, click your
profile button (top right), click on profile and edit profile and update as
required.
So as we move into the 2023 sailing season I hope that all your plans come
together and that you will enjoy some fine sailing. Please help the SOA by
checking the details that we hold for you (as outlined above). Should you
feel that you could offer some time
and experience to the committee in Nigel Campling
any of the roles outlined, we would SOA Chairman
love to hear from you. Dutch Courage of Cowes (S115)
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Editorial
Welcome to this 114th edition of the SOA magazine from a rather chilly and
incredibly windy Stromness. Hoping for slightly better weather this year,
Nick and I are completing the second year of our Scotland adventure with
some wonderful visits to the hidden gems that it has to offer. In Orkney we
have already spent several hours in the local museum in Stromness which
showcases the amazing history of the people of these remote Islands. The
ingenuity and hardiness of these remarkable islanders, has seen them
become explorers, settlers, inventors, engineers, fishermen and farmers.
And interestingly, so many of the islanders both now and in the past return
to their homeland of Orkney. After only a few days here it is easy to see
what draws them back – there is a heart to the place.
It is not an easy place to navigate to, through and around. The tidal streams
reach 8kts and there are many crinkly lines on the charts and the word
“roosts” (a technical term for the big swirly broaching waves!), so it is
unsurprising that there are also many shipwrecks in the area and equally so
many accounts of the heroism and sacrifice of the lifeboat crews. The
Northern Lighthouse Board has 18 lights around Orkney which were built
many years ago to aid the safety of all the mariners who use these islands.
One family, the Stevenson’s were responsible for the design, development
and upkeep of these aids for so many years that their name became
synonymous with the NLB. The only recalcitrant son not interested in being
a civil engineer was the author Robert Louis Stevenson, who it is said, based
his novel “Kidnapped” on a visit to the lighthouses with his father.
Living an itinerant life, as we do in the summers, we find reading other
sailors stories, accounts and blogs incredibly useful. There is no substitute
for local knowledge and in this edition of the magazine you will find pearls
of wisdom from all our contributors whom I thank wholeheartedly for the
work they have put in to give us their personal tips and advice in the
accounts they have written of their voyages.
For me, my favourite bedtime reading and research book over the last
couple of years has been The Scottish Islands by Hamish Haswell-Smith. A
most comprehensive and informative guide to the ownership, geology,
geography, history, flora and fauna of the 168 islands he has visited and
researched. It is a weighty tomb but worth its weight in gold if you intend to
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Editorial
cruise these amazing waters. As a yachtsman he also offers information
on useful anchorages you wont find in many of the standard guides. One
other resource we found invaluable last year is the set of raster Antares
charts surveyed and described by Bob Bradfield, showing all the beautiful
and remote anchorages on the west coast of Scotland. It is a superb
addition to any explorers kitbag and it is now possible to integrate it into
an App called MemoryMap which allows you to see the big picture and
then delve down into the detail of the anchor spot you have chosen. And
of course there is the invaluable resource, CA’s Captain’s Mate if you are
a member.
So as planning for your season gets underway and the weather warms up
(hopefully) we wish you all a great 2023 cruising year and where you can,
enjoy and benefit from the local knowledge, special Apps and personal
recommendations that we as sailors love to share.
Alison & Nick Boxall
Magazine Editors
Whimbrel S110
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Secretary's report
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Minutes of the Southerly Owners Association AGM, held on Saturday 25
March, 2023 at the Maritime Club, Portsmouth and on Zoom.
Present: There were 38 members present and 12 on Zoom.
Apologies were received from 15 members.
The Chairman welcomed everyone to the meeting and confirmed the
minutes of last year’s AGM had been printed in the magazine and circulated
with the agenda for those present.
Treasurer’s Report:
The figures were displayed on screen and David Thomas explained the
income and expenditure, both of which had increased due to a return to
normal after Covid. Income increased by £498 to £10,875 and expenditure
by £1,547 to £10,031. The balance had increased from £17,209 in 2021 to
£18,053 at the end of 2022. David thanked Mike Donnelly, our Accounts
Examiner, who had inspected and signed the accounts. Adoption of the
accounts was proposed by Peter Bell, and seconded by Mike Edwards.
Secretary’s Report:
There had been three committee meetings and an AGM during the year.
One meeting was via Zoom. There had been very little correspondence as
most of the questions and queries are dealt with on the website and
members Forum.
Membership Secretary’s Report:
A graph showing a steady growth in membership to just over 500 was
shown. Minh Tran
explained there was a
continued net gain,
particularly from
overseas members.
Magazine Editors’
Report:
Members were
AGM in Portsmouth 2023
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Secretary's report
thanked for their contributions to the magazine. Please may it continue.
There is now an option to receive the magazine on line rather than a hard
copy, but only ten members have opted for this.
Chairman’s Report:
The committee was thanked for their continued support, particularly Mike
and Minh for all their hard work on Rallies and Membership. Recently
there had been an issue with access to the website, but this has been
resolved. This highlights the fact that there is no IT member on the
committee and problems are dealt with by the Chairman and Editor. On
occasions, professional help has been required. He confirmed that
membership cards can be downloaded from the website and these will be
needed to obtain discounts from organizations such as Premier and
Northshore. Finally the Chairman emphasized the need to recruit new
members to the committee. A Treasurer and IT member are needed.
At this point in the meeting, the Chairman asked committee member,
Peter Bell to give an update on the future of Southerly Yachts and Ocean
Shipyards. There are a S42 & S48 in production, but with no further
orders, funds had been withdrawn. Many of the moulds have been
destroyed.
Election of Officers and Committee for 2023:
The Secretary confirmed that David Thomas was standing down as
Treasurer and he had received no nominations. The following officers and
committee were elected unanimously by those present:
Chairman – Nigel Campling
Magazine Editors – Alison and Nick Boxall
Vice Chairman – Derrick Gill
Rally & Events Coordinator – Mike Edwards
Secretary – Les Webb
Membership Secretary – Minh Tran
Committee Member – Peter Bell
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Secretary's report
Awards:
John Manley Award for best magazine article – Jochen Schaefer: and for the
best contribution to the website forum – Peter Voet.
This year’s photographic competition was won by Steve Huckvale – Pot of
Gold; and Peter Petrik – Spring Cleaning.
Finally, the Swing Keel Trophy for his contribution to the SOA, was
presented to David Thomas for his splendid work as Treasurer for 10 years
The Chairman thanked Ali and Nick for their work on the magazine and for
organizing the awards.
Rallies and Events:
Mike Edwards confirmed that last year, rallies had taken place at Newport,
Lymington, Brixham, (Rendezvous), Bembridge and Swanwick (following
closure of Island Harbour). This year’s rallies will be at Newport, St Peter
Port (Rendezvous), Bembridge and maybe Beaulieu and Poole. Nigel
thanked Mike for all his efforts in organizing events. Unfortunately, there
has been no success in getting volunteers to organize a
rally in Scotland or the East Coast. Les Webb
The Chairman thanked everyone for attending and SOA Secretary
closed the meeting at 1236.
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SOA Accounts
Southerly Owners Association
Income & Expenditure Account
Year ended 31 December 2022
2022 2021
Notes
Income £ £
Subscription Income 10376 10077
Regalia Sales 29 10
Advertising 470 290
Total Income 10,875 10,377
Expenditure
Bank charges 60 5
Committee / Office Expenses 1 443 495
IT (Internet, website etc) 1003 2144
Magazine Cost 4937 4834
Regalia Purchases 2 1710 0
Awards 258 0
Rally/Event net costs 3 1480 876
Membership (RYA) 140 130
less : Total Expenditure 10,031 8,484
Excess of income over expenditure,
transferred to/(from) accumulated fund 844 1,893
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SOA Accounts
Southerly Owners Association
Balance Sheet as at 31 December 2022 2022 2021
£ £
Debtors & Prepayments
Event / Rally deposits 816
Accruals 180 185
180 1001
Bank Current Account 18661 15480
Bank Savings Account 13 13
PayPal Account 1239 759
Cash in Hand 300 206
20213 16458
Creditors
Subscriptions received 20 80
Accrued expenses 2320 170
(2,340) (250)
18,053 17,209
Represented by :
17209
Accumulated fund brought 15,316
844
Surplus/(Deficit) for the year
Accumulated fund carried for- 18,053 17,209
* * * *
Signed : Original signed
Signed : Original signed 15/03/23
15/03/23
Mike Donnelly, Appointed Examiner
David Thomas, Treasurer
Southerly Owners Association
Southerly Owners Association
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SOA Accounts
Southerly Owners Association
Notes to the Accounts
Year ended 31 December 2022
INCOME / EXPENDITURE 2022 2021
£ £
Note
1 COMMITTEE / OFFICE EXPENS-
Membership Secretary 402 320
Treasurer 8 13
Magazine Editors
Chairman
Misc. Office 33 162
443 495
2 REGALIA PURCHASES
Burgees 1710
3 RALLY / EVENT COSTS (net)
AGM 155 0
Laying-up Supper 1080 685
SOA Rendezvous 145 0
Other Rallies 100 191
1,480 876
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New Members
The SOA would like to welcome the following members who have
recently joined.
Scott James Looking to buy 105
Jens Ganse-Dumrath Odin 4, 110, 2005
Andrew Deakin Lady C, 115, 1991
Stefano Caprara & Catterina Gasparini Antares, 105, 1980
Wolfgang Eilers Liekedeeler-Twee, 100, 1991
Richard Evans Looking to buy 115 Mk 4 or 110
Jack O'Rourke Capricho, 105, 1982
David Hutchings La Mouette, 110, 2008
Peter Rumsey Looking to buy
Alastair & Julia Bartholomew Gigha, 100, 1988
Geoff Smith Looking to buy 38 or 42RST
Yvonne Margerison Gernee, 100, 1985
Richard Whitmore-Jones (TBA), 110, (TBC)
Simon Sainsbury Looking to buy
Hans van der Lee Lost the Plot, 115, 1986
George Terbovich Knotless, 38, 2010
Mark Nixon Looking to buy 32
Michael Braecher Nordlicht. 110, 2010
Alexander Münchinger Aurelia, 105, 1981
Paul & Susan Hardisty Oar to Sail, 115 Mk 3, (Unknown)
Antoine Dejoie Cybèle, 42RST, 2008
Simon Beck Team Spirit, 95, 1980
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Dutch fixed mast route (part2)
Haarlem to Lauwersoog
Following queries from members, here is the second installment about the
Dutch inland fixed mast route for those planning to cruise the Low
Countries next season.
The first article was featured on page 37 of the winter 2022 issue of the
SOA magazine (no. 113). The article covers the southern half of the fixed
mast route; Breskens to Haarlem. It can be found on the SOA website
As mentioned last time, the aim is not to write a pilot because they already
exist. For instance, the Cruising Association has a good one, just updated
for 2023. You can buy it for about GBP 10 (Free for CA members)
Instead, I’ll try and give a local perspective, with maybe some hidden gems.
I’ve been sailing this route since I was a teenager.
By way of introduction, the fixed mast route is an inland waterway route
that covers the entire length of the Netherlands, from Flushing in the South
to Delfzijl in the North. It’s mostly used as a way to get home if weather out
at sea is against you and therefore often begrudgingly traversed under
engine as quickly as possible. That’s missing a trick in my opinion. There is
lots to see and explore. There is even sailing to be done.
The last article took us from Breskens to the North Sea Canal between
IJmuiden and Amsterdam. It is a good place to start this second installment
because you can either carry on from the route described last time or you
could start here if you arrived in IJmuiden. IJmuiden is 102 miles from
Lowestoft. IJmuiden Seaport Marina is a handy place to arrive and leave
from as it’s outside the locks, sheltered within the breakwaters, accessible
24h at all tides and weather. It’s a full-service marina, right next to the
dunes and a nice beach. Other than that, not much going on.
From IJmuiden it’s 13 miles to Amsterdam. If you are coming from
Haarlem, its less than 10 miles. On the North Sea Canal (Noordzeekanaal)
keep well to starboard, because there is a lot of commercial traffic. Yachts
that don’t, have been known to get fined. If you need to cross to the other
side, cross at right angles as if you were crossing a traffic separation
scheme at sea. Three different VTS sectors along the way, so switch to the
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correct VHF channel in time. There are signs ashore showing the correct
channel. Yachts do not need to report to traffic control, just monitor. AIS
switched on is a good idea. Traffic control will track and call you if they
want you to do something.
The North Sea canal was largely dug by hand between 1865 and 1876.
Believe it or not, the engineering knowledge to do it mainly came from
Britain as the local knowhow about lock construction was not as advanced
compared to the British at the height of the Industrial Revolution.
Of course, it's great to spend a couple days in Amsterdam. You can berth
close to the city centre, and there are plenty of berthing options for
everyone’s taste. I’ll cover five, including one free anchorage. First of all,
the famous “Sixhaven” right across from Central Station. Easiest for city
access due to the foot ferries running 24/7. But it’s the most crowded
marina. During the Summer months, they will pack you in like sardines,
filling up the thoroughfares between berths completely so you can walk
across decks from one side of the marina to the other. Not great if you
want to leave before lunch. Also, bit tight for vessels over 40 feet.
However, a great club atmosphere.
Next is Amsterdam Marina. Also on the North shore. This is the most
modern marina with great facilities and a lot of space. It’s also walking
distance from a foot/bicycle ferry to Central Station and has a big
supermarket nearby. We prefer it to the Sixhaven.
Sixhaven and Amsterdam Marina are on the North shore. The next two are
on the Southern shore so on the city centre side. Firstly, City Marina IJdock,
four cables west of Sixhaven. It’s very small, so advance reservations are a
must and it often tends to be full, but has the advantage that it is right off
the main channel. Next to the entrance of this marina is the first of two
bridges into the Westerdok. For the more adventurous, this is a hidden
gem. After the second bridge, turn to starboard and slowly head to the end
of the Westerdok. Here is the small marina “Het Realeneiland”. The
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facilities are basic but you are berthed in the centre of 17 century
Amsterdam; Amsterdam’s golden age. You are within walking distance of
all of Amsterdam’s main attractions, great markets and central station.
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From there you can easily do your own canal cruises in your dinghy, kayak
or SUP.
Lastly, the free anchorage is
outside Durgerdam marina east of
the Oranjesluizen locks. Good
holding to the east of the channel
leading into the marina. But can be
shallow. No tide except wind tide.
But a bit of a trek to get into town
from there.
Continuing the fixed mast route,
from Amsterdam you head East
through the Oranjesluizen locks and under the Schellingwouderbridge
(opens every 20 minutes) towards the IJsselmeer. This very large
freshwater lake actually consists of two lakes. First Markermeer and then
IJsselmeer. Until 1932 this was open sea, called the Zuiderzee. But it was
dammed off to strengthen Holland’s sea defenses. Historically
Amsterdam’s sea access was through the Zuiderzee but that route often
silted up hence the North Sea canal was dug.
Couple of things to be aware of on Markermeer and IJsselmeer. First of
all, they are not very deep. But you won’t run aground easily. Depths tend
to range between two and four meters. The problem is when it starts
blowing over 20 knots. You get a very short and steep swell which is very
uncomfortable. The other problem, mainly in the southern half of the
Markermeer (closest to Amsterdam) is pondweed. This stuff fouls rudders
and props and can clog the seawater strainer. My advice is to stay in the
buoyed channels between Amsterdam and Marken. The authorities
“mow” the channels to keep the pond weed at bay. After Marken and on
the IJsselmeer it’s hardly an issue.
Continuing the fixed mast route, you can cross the Markermeer and
IJsselmeer following two main routes. You can follow the eastern shore
past Lelystad and enter province of Friesland at Lemmer. Or you can
follow the Western shore past Enkhuizen and enter Friesland at Stavoren.
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Dutch fixed mast route (part2)
We prefer the latter western route as it gives more protection from
prevailing south westerlies and there are more interesting places to visit.
Firstly, I would head to Marken. We think it’s the best preserved fishing
village in The Netherlands. Its small and feels like an open-air museum.
Following the buoyed channel from Amsterdam on roughly a 22 degree
heading you will see Marken’s distinct white lighthouse called “Het paard
van Marken” (The horse of Marken) from miles away. You then still have to
round the long breakwater to the north of Marken. That brings you into the
shallow Gouwzee which offers plenty of safe spots to anchor for all wind
directions. Marken has a few visitors berths but we tend to anchor off and
dinghy in.
The other place to visit there is Volendam, they have many more berths
available and from there, there is a foot/bicycle ferry to Marken. But
Volendam is worth it in its own right. You can either stay in the municipal
harbour in the city centre if you like the hustle and bustle or in Marina
Volendam which is a 15-minute walk away from the city centre. Volendam
always punches above its weight. For example, the village currently has a
football team in the top flight. It supplies a disproportionate amount of
chart-topping artists and is famous for its traditional clothing. You have to
have your picture taken wearing them. Clogs and all.
From Marken and Volendam, continue heading North following the
Western shore towards Enkhuizen. If you have
time, we highly recommend you stop in Hoorn
on the way. Don’t stay in one of the marinas
but stay in the well-appointed municipal
harbour (Gemeentelijke Binnenhaven) in the
centre. Hoorn was an important trading centre
th
for the Dutch East India Company in the 17
Century. Well preserved buildings from that
era are still in abundance.
Carrying on to Enkhuizen, you pass through the
locks between the lakes, going from
Markermeer to IJsselmeer. These locks are
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Dutch fixed mast route (part 2)
called Naviduct because the road goes underneath the locks rather than a
road bridge going over them. Very sensible. All future locks should be built
this way in my opinion.
Enkhuizen is a must see and a very convenient stop. Again, if possible,
avoid the large marinas and stay in the municipal harbour in the town
centre which has equally good facilities. If you arrive late, you might have
to raft up but in the course of the next morning you will be able to shift
alongside. Like many places, recommend downloading an app to pay
harbour dues. Signs on the dock will have instructions and QR codes. By
the end of your tour of the Low Countries, you will probably have three or
four different marina apps on your phone.
Enkhuizen was historically the centre for herring fishing. A must see is the
Zuiderzee museum (zuiderzeemuseum.nl). It’s an outside museum with
lots to do for all ages. A well-preserved time capsule of a bygone era of
sail. A walking tour around the city centre and over the city walls is also
recommended. Enkhuizen is also convenient for fuel, chandlery and all
marine services. Supermarket is a short walk away. The municipal harbour
is next to the train station with regular trains to Amsterdam so handy for
crew changes. Local tip, between the harbour and the station is a
fishmonger. A local delicacy in these parts is smoked eel. Get some fillets,
put them on a cracker to go with your sundowners/five o’clock tipple.
Thank me later.
From Enkhuizen, cross the IJsselmeer
to the other side in a North Easterly
heading towards Stavoren. So far, the
route covered in this installment went
through the province of North-
Holland, which has always been the
centre of things. That’s why even the
Dutch call The Netherlands, Holland
sometimes. But now things change.
At Stavoren we enter the province of Friesland. This is where originally the
black and white Frisian cow comes from. Friesland is the Dutch equivalent
of Scotland. A proud and fiercely independent province in the North where
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Dutch fixed mast route (part2)
Frisian rather than Dutch is spoken by nearly 60% of the population. You
can get a Frisian passport at the tourist information centre and a couple of
years back, as a publicity stunt to promote tourism, they opened a Frisian
embassy in Amsterdam. You will see many local boaters fly the Frisian flag
rather than the Dutch one but no need to
change your courtesy flag (yet).
At Stavoren you can either berth outside on
the IJsselmeer side or lock through and berth
in town. If you still have time at the end of
the day, I would lock through. The fixed mast
route goes through there, so you need the
lock in the next days anyway. If you stay on
the outside, I would again recommend the
municipal harbour to the North of town
rather than the marina in the South. If
locking through, turn to port after the lock
and find a spot in town. In Stavoren you will
immediately notice you are in a more rural
th
setting. We have left the grand 17 century mansions of the East India men
behind. Stavoren is a very old town. It has medieval roots. Established
around 900; it received city rights in 1061 and was one of the cities of the
Hanseatic League from the twelfth century onwards.
From Stavoren we take the Johan Friso canal to the lakes called “de
Fluessen”. This is the start if the expansive Frisian lake district but it looks
more like the Norfolk Broads. All the lakes are connected and there are
comparatively few bridges and hardly any locks to deal with. You can easily
spend a couple of weeks exploring. Many of the lakes have islands with
jetties. All are free of charge. You can anchor nearly everywhere. I’ll share
some personal favorites. On the Fluessen there are three larger islands,
Kruispolle, Langehoekspolle and Rakkenpolle. The latter is a short dinghy
ride to the village of Heeg, one of the pretty boating centres in the area. If
you are lucky, the bakery boat will come by in the morning delivering fresh
croissants and more.
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Dutch fixed mast route (part2)
If you want to go a bit more off the beaten track, I can recommend going to
Oudegaaster Brekken only five miles from the Fluessen lakes. To get there,
go through the Inthiemasloot which is North-West of the Langehoekspolle
island to Groote Gaastmeer lake. On the lake keep following the buoyed
channel West over the Zandmeer lake and into the Korte Vliet canal. In the
canal take the first right heading north to the Vlakke Brekken lake. Follow
the buoyed channel on the lake until you see the small island with a little
harbour in the middle. You will have a very peaceful night there.
Carrying on from Heeg at the North
end of the Fluessen, take the
Jeltesloot canal for three miles in
an easterly direction and then turn
to port on to Princes Margriet canal
and follow for four miles until you
reach the Sneeker Lake. The city of
Sneek is worth a visit. This is really
the watersports centre for the
region, bit like Cowes but for open
boat and dinghy sailing. Visitor
berths available leading up to and in the city centre but you can also stay
on the lake. Sneek has an iconic town gate which is used as the logo for sail
maker and fashion brand Gaastra.
From the Sneeker lake we carry on in a North-Easterly direction on the
Nieuwe Wetering towards the village of Grou. There we recommend to stay
overnight on one of the islands close by and dinghy into the village for a
drink or a snack. Take the dinghy around the breakwater to the East of the
village and then go up the little canal south of the centre and under the low
bridge all the way to the end and tie up there. Generally, when doing a
reconnaissance on these lakes and villages for berths and routes I use the
map app on my phone set to satellite images. It’s even good for scoping
places to dry out on tidal waters as the shallows and gullies are clearly
visible. So you can find a flat spot.
Page 21
Dutch fixed mast route (part2)
After Grou the route goes North to Leeuwarden. Leeuwarden is the largest
city and the capital of Friesland so a good place for provisioning.
Recommend to berth in the centre of town in the municipal harbour
between the Vrouwenpoorts bridge and Noorder bridge. Beware of
overhanging trees when approaching the berth. We’ve come to an abrupt
stop a couple of times because we forgot to look up. If you prefer peace
and quiet, just carry on through town and there a plenty of free berths
along the canal about two miles past the
Noorderbrug after the village of Lekkum.
The next town worth stopping at is
Dokkum. You know the drill by now. Stay
in the centre of town in the municipal
harbour. In 754 the English Saint
Bonafacius came to a sticky end in
Dokkum when trying to convert the
Frisians to Christianity. He could
communicate with the locals because
Frisian is related to the old English he
spoke. But he obviously wasn’t convincing
enough and we now know that trying to
convince the Frisians of anything as a very
tall order. The other thing Dokkum is
known for is the distillery of Sonnema Beerenburg. Beerenburg is Dutch
gin with added spices. About 30% alcohol. Most Dutch skippers have a
bottle on board to keep out the chill. Dokkum is also a good place for retail
therapy. There are many small independent shops to browse.
From Dokkum onto our last stop, Lauwersmeer national park. Again there
are many free overnight berths on the canal between Dokkum and
Lauwersmeer (Lauwerslake) if you want peace and quiet. On the
Lauwerslake we recommend finding a well sheltered berth round the back
of Schoenerbult Island. Lauwers lake is never crowded and a great place
for birdwatching. For a drink and a bite, we go to Oostmahorn on the
western shore. If weather allows, we prefer to take the dinghy, leaving the
boat behind at the island.
Page 22
Dutch fixed mast route (part2)
At the North end of the lake is the village of Lauwersoog. Safe to give that
a miss but there is also the lock out to the Waddenzee. Regarding that
lock; there is up to a 2 knot tide running through the lock at all times. This
is done on purpose to keep the salt water out of the lake. Therefore,
when entering the lock from the lake side, get the stern line on first.
For me this is the end of the fixed mast route although you can carry on
for another 35 miles via Groningen to Delfzijl. I would only suggest doing
this if you want to go to the German Bight and there is bad weather at
sea. Instead, I strongly recommend exploring the Wadden Sea and the
Wadden Isles. This area is where we tend to see most Southerlies because
of the sheltered tidal estuaries where drying out is easy. You can spend
the whole Summer there and it’s a good way to head South-West again.
But that might be a topic for another article.
Hope you found this helpful. Let us know if you are in the Netherlands.
Happy to meet up if we are around. Don’t hesitate to contact us If you
have any questions. Reach out via the SOA facebook page, email or
whatsapp. Hopefully see some of you in the lowlands!
Abel and Adrienne
S/V Camus Bosta
42RST
Page 23
Povoa de Varzim
Exactly 9 months after leaving my Southerly 105 propped high on stands in
this friendly port about 15 miles north of Porto, I returned to prepare her
for sea. There was certainly plenty to do!
Over the next 8 days we fitted a new ram auto-helm (the wheel drive had
just not been up to the job), redesigned aft cabin cupboards to fit round it,
put the engine back together, re-fitted the rudder, wired new speakers, and
tested everything we could think of.
The final conclusion, after dealing with things that were stuck, seized, fried,
sulky, or deliberately obstructive, was that Masquerade would not be left
alone for so long again
Having said that, on the 9th day, after antifouling under the warm
Portuguese sun, she was lowered delicately into the water and slipped
sweetly through the water to a waiting pontoon. She now sits, bobbing
quietly, ready for sea trials tomorrow.
The staff at the marina and Nautica Vaga yacht services have been so
helpful. Nothing is too much trouble and they are happy to lend advice and
equipment if asked. Definitely a place to stop on your way past, or even
(given its very reasonable rates) a place to consider keeping your boat. If
you opt to stay on the water over the winter months, do use the newer part
of the marina as it is far better protected from the off season Atlantic! Porto
airport is a metro or taxi ride away and has regular, reasonably priced flights
to the UK.
We shall, however, be
taking the slow boat home.
Andy Bourne
Masquerade S105
Page 24
UK Circumnavigation
We, or rather I, had been planning a circumnavigation of the UK for some
time. My wife had done plenty of Mediterranean sailing holidays and a few
charters on the South Coast but a trip around the outside of the four
nations promised to be a rather more challenging experience. However,
when an opportunity to quit work for a year came along, we decided to go
for it.
We looked at various yachts and decided a swing keel would best suit our
needs and a Southerly was the only real option. The search was on for a
Hauled out in Gillingham
good 110, 32 or 35 – all scarce and likely to be at the top of our budget.
By chance we came across Blueprint which was for sale in Chatham. We
quickly went and had a look and following a sea trial and survey we bought
her in October 2021. The survey had revealed a few issues and we also
wanted to add a few things we thought essential. This included new
seacocks and running rigging, keel pennant and a lot of safety equipment.
We installed an AIS transponder, hand held DSC VHF, EPIRB, rescue sling,
liferaft, jack stays, first aid kit and a new flare pack.
Having spent several weeks on the hard at Gillingham, Blueprint was now
ready to go to her new berth in Chichester Marina. I and three friends left in
Page 25
UK Circumnavigation
early November and arrived four day sails later with the benefit of fair
weather and good tides.
This maiden voyage revealed what is apparently a common and well know
problem with 35RS’s – the sea water cooling system develops an
occasional air lock whilst healed over in even moderate seas. This
inevitably happens at the worst possible moments, and we have yet to
find a solution. The fitting of an exhaust temperature alarm helps warn us,
but we constantly find ourselves starting the engine earlier than we would
like, just in case.
Moored at Southworld
Sunset in Whitby
Having moved the boat to Chichester we spent the next few months
finishing our refit and preparing to set off. We spent several winter
weekends sailing between Chichester and the Solent and grew comfortable
that Blueprint was safe and secure. As always, mooring was the most
stressful part of these trips. Twin rudders, no prop wash and lots of
windage is a recipe for disaster unless you keep plenty of way on - I would
certainly not want to park a 35RS without a bow thruster!
We wanted to leave for our trip by mid-May 2022 to benefit from good
weather – we of course had no idea at this stage just how good the
summer weather would turn out to be. Having sorted out our affairs at
Page 26
UK Circumnavigation
home and loaded the boat with provisions, we caught the train to
Chichester and departed on the 18th May 2022. Having read several books
and articles we had decided to go around anti-clockwise. This was simply
on the basis that both the scenery and facilities are said to improve as you
head down and along the West and South coasts and this did prove to be
the case.
Entering Whitehills Moray firth dolphin dance
We planned to complete the trip by day sails of various lengths, and this
was relatively easy along the Kent, Essex, Suffolk and Norfolk coasts. A
highlight of this leg was crossing the Thames Estuary for the first time,
broad reaching most of the way in a fresh westerly breeze from Ramsgate
to Burnham on Sea. On the other hand, the narrow harbour entrance and
mooring up at Southwold on the flood tide was certainly not for the faint
hearted! Poorly marked Lobster and Crab pots were a constant threat and
we lost count of the number we had passed on many days.
We had set ourselves the challenge of reaching Wells next the Sea on the
North Norfolk coast by the middle of June so that we could return home for
a family celebration. We arrived with a day to spare and left Blueprint
safety tucked up on the town pontoon.
We returned a week later and quickly departed to head further up the East
coast. Our day sail passage strategy was working well, based upon using a
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UK Circumnavigation
mixture of marinas, mooring buoys and anchorages. Our lifting keel was a
god send on several occasions, allowing us more flexible mooring options
and leeway on tidal heights. We did however spend a bumpy and noisy
night bashing into the mooring buoy behind Spurn
Head - the pilot book said this was not subject to
excessive tidal streams, but this was clearly not the
case that night. We visited Scarborough and
Whitby and had the most fantastic sunsets. This
also gave us the first of many encounters with
Dolphins.
Our next deadline was to reach Inverness by the
end of July to again return home, this time for a
wedding. This involved our longest passage of the
entire trip but even this was only 66nm long, from
Arbroath to Peterhead. The exceptional summer
Asymmetric down the weather was now upon us with the drawback of
sound of Mull inconsistent winds – we spent a lot of hours motor
sailing.
We had by now settled into a comfortable
routine and our facial sun tans and ‘panda’
Crinan Canal
eyes were coming along nicely. We did
however start to see an alarming number of
dead seabirds - a harbinger for the current
Avian Flu outbreak. We visited some lovely
spots including Amble, Whitehills and
Lossiemouth and our final day of this leg saw
us blasting up the Moray Forth with the
Asymmetric spinnaker flying high. This was
made even better by the pod of dolphins
which played around us for the last few
miles. We arrived in Inverness on schedule
and entered the Caledonian Canal the day
after, spending a couple of days exploring
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UK Circumnavigation
the city before flying home.
When we returned, we had the daunting challenge of departing Muirtown
Seaport Marina and negotiating the first flight of six back-to-back locks up
the canal. Whilst the locks are all operated by friendly and informative staff,
they do involve considerable rises and strong flows – a challenge for a
double handed yacht. Plenty of fenders, long lines and a good lasso
technique are essential!
The Caledonian canal was very picturesque and
with one or two exceptions the weather
remained good. The notorious Scottish Midges
also stayed away except for one warm evening at
Fort Augustus – we quickly retreated to Blueprint
and closed everything down in a hurry. We took
a week to transit the canal and popped out at
Fort William in early August.
Our schedule did not allow us to go too far up
the Western Isles, but we spent an enjoyable
couple of days in Tobermoray and the Firth of
Lorne before heading south via the notorious
Lawrenny quay
Gulf of Corryvreckan and entering the Crinan Canal.
After exiting at Ardrishaig we headed for East Tarbert and then Campbell
Town before crossing the North Channel to Carrick Fergus in Northern
Ireland. We visited Belfast and the Titanic Dockyard before provisioning
Bluepint for the next leg down to the Isle of Man. We ended up motoring
across to Peel in mirror smooth seas although this did help us spot yet
more dolphins. We spent the day in Peel before refuelling and moving
around to a buoy in Port St Mary ready to depart for North Wales the next
day. This turned out to be another long motor sail across to Conwy, a
fascinating historic town dominated by the castle and surrounding
fortifications.
Our next major challenge was the passage through the Menai Strait and we
headed for Beaumaris, just up from the bridges, ready for the big day.
Page 29
UK Circumnavigation
Detailed passage planning, rechecking and a sleepless night paid off with a
straightforward trip, passing under the bridges just as the tide turned in our
favour. It is always reassuring when you see other yachts on the same
trajectory as your own!
Blueprint was behaving impeccably and was being suitably pampered with
oil and filter changes, a replacement main halyard and clutch and plenty of
Marine 16 fuel treatment at each diesel fill. The dreaded sea water cooling
air lock happened occasionally and had become the subject of a daily
sweep stake between the skipper and first mate.
We spent time in Wales visiting Porth Dinllaen, Pwllheli, Aberyswth and a
night at anchor in Fishguard before tackling Ramsey Sound to reach Milford
Haven. This was our most difficult passage due to both poor weather and,
more significantly, a miscalculation on tidal flows. This is not the best place
to discover you have an adverse tide on the nose for the next six hours in
Force 6 winds. When we eventually entered Milford Haven neither the
Haven nor Neyland Marina had space for us – not a good finish to a rough
day at sea. We ended up on a buoy at Lawrenny Quay which was very
peaceful and quaint.
After a couple of days pottering around the many back waters in Milford
Haven we planned our departure and a crossing of the Bristol Channel.
Despite the huge tidal range and
Dried out in Cloverly
correspondingly strong tidal flows we had a
great sail across to Clovelly on the North
Cornwall coast. Once again, the dolphins came
out to play around the boat as we passed
close to Lundy.
Clovelly is a unique little village with a
challenging small drying harbour. We
approached with apprehension, not having
been able to contact the harbour master for
mooring advise. We rounded the harbour
entrance just after high water and picked a
spot against the rough sea wall. Having
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UK Circumnavigation
successfully moored up, we raised the keel and waited as the tide fell
before settling smoothly onto soft sand.
We left Clovelly a few days later with the rising tide and headed off towards
Padstow. We anchored outside the Doom Bar for a couple of hours to wait
for the harbour cill before mooring up for the August Bank Holiday
weekend. Padstow was of course packed with tourists although the harbour
itself had plenty of space and good facilities.
We spent a lovely few days with
Padstow lifeboat blessing glorious weather exploring the
town, watching the lifeboat
blessing ceremony and eating out
at the various Rick Stein
establishments!
We headed off from Padstow and
spent a night at anchor in the
picturesque Mullion Cove before
heading around Cape Cornwall and
Lands End. We had a great
downwind sail to Newlyn passing inside the Longships lighthouse. We
visited the iconic St Michaels mount and bought some great fresh seafood.
It was good to see so many fishing vessels still operating successfully from
this historic port.
We were now on the home straight on our way back
Padstow Harbour
to Chichester but had yet another deadline looming.
We needed to be back home by late September for
an important function and only had a few weeks to
do so. This was further jeopardised by being storm
bound in Falmouth for several days. When we
eventually decided to leave, we were soon surfing
down waves with a following Force 7 wind all the
way to Plymouth. When we arrived, we were
greeted by the sad news that Her Majesty the Queen
had passed away. As we moved on the next day HMS
Page 31
UK Circumnavigation
Albion 96 gun
salute
Enroute to
Plymouth
ALBION fired a
96 gun salute across Plymouth Sound. From
Plymouth we visited Salcombe and then
Dartmouth, both with stunning scenery and accompanied by yet more
glorious weather. The summer sailing season had now passed, and we
found moorings easily enough. Our next stop was to have been Lyme Regis
to dry out inside the Cobb. A strong easterly wind put paid to that, and we
headed to West Bay instead. After a couple of bumpy nights on a wobbly
pontoon we left early to round the infamous Portland Bill and reach
Weymouth. Despite poor weather we had an exhilarating sail, beam
Rounding
Portland bill
reaching through the in-shore channel to avoid the races, exceeding ten
knots for most of the passage.
Finally, we could once again see the Isle of Wight across Christchurch Bay.
We flew across to Yarmouth with full sail and the Asymmetric up. It was
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UK Circumnavigation
reassuring to see the familiar sights of the Needles Lighthouse and Hurst
Castle, even the Lymington to Yarmouth ferry was a welcome companion.
Our final day was the passage from Yarmouth back through the Solent and
into Chichester Harbour. This passed uneventfully, with a tinge of sadness
that our adventure was over tempered by the thought of returning home
after a six week absence. We passed through the lock at Chichester Marina
whilst it was on free flow and once again we had reason to be thankful for
our swing keel – we touched the bottom whilst reversing into our berth!
We returned home on the 16th September 2022 after travelling 1840nm
with 58 days at sea and a total of 109 days on board. We experienced some
lovely scenery, spectacular views, good food, and, on the whole excellent
weather. If you get the chance, we would thoroughly recommend you
follow in our wake.
Chris & Theresa Church
Blueprint 35RS
Back in Chichester
Page 33
DIY refurbing the keel
The first thing I will say about this is that it is not for the faint hearted !!! It
is more than possible but it really is a lot of hard graft and you need to be
on the upper end of practical.
I would like to I thank the good folk at Burnham Yacht Harbour Tony,
Jonathan and Paul and Mathew at Irons Brothers (who I still have to
return a lifting plate to and has been very patient ) for without the help of
these people the task would have been impossible.
For more photos refer to the Digital version of the Magazine
After extensively refitting the boat I was left staring a very rusty lifting
plate, of which the pennant attachment position had been moved by about
an inch out of place . This might not sound a big deal but by the time that is
transferred down via the lifting mechanism it meant that correct
adjustment was not possible and the ram would ride up the box too high
and hit against the top pulleys. Was this easy? drop the keel ,undo the
bolts and replace the lifting plate with a nice new shiny Stainless Steel one.
My initial thoughts were why on earth should this cost xxxxxxx thousands
of pounds!?
My first Port of call for advice was the SOA forum but there was nothing of
an extensive nature there. I then trawled the Internet for anything but
could only find a few photographs of keels. Of great interest was the tale of
Mistroma the S95 http://www.mistroma.com/MistromaOriginal/
Maintenance.html and from this information I figured I could replace a
rusty lifting plate. I contacted Iron Brothers for some advice and they were
very free with their knowledge.
Advice which helped me make decisions later down the road with the
Page 34
DIY refurbing the keel
project.
Indeed, in due course a nice new shiny lifting plate was delivered to
Burnham and in fact it is still operating as my front door stop. Sorry
Mathew I will get it back to you.
See the digital version for
more photos If you are going to attempt this job please
follow this article. The first thing to do is to
locate ALL the bolts holding the grounding
plate to the hull. I spent a long time over
this and did a lot of video including using a
borescope camera, you can buy cheap ones
that will plug into your phone. DO NOT
attempt the removal of the lifting plate
unless you are 100% sure you have located
them all or you will leave a lump of your
keel box attached to it ……not advisable.
As I found the bolts I marked out their
position with arrows pointing towards
them as some are under the cabin sole and
not in plain view.
As I located the bolts I sprayed the nuts
with WD 40 or similar and I did this on a regular basis over the course of a
year. Then using a 1 mt breaker bar tested them gently to see if they were
freeing up. At no time force anything as you want to free the nut and not
the stud (at this stage I had no idea how long the studs were and was as a
rule afloat ) Gradually I freed all the accessible nuts. This took patience and
a bit of nerve on my part.
Being sure I was now ready to slip the boat and lift it off the grounding
plate the work begins in earnest .
Now its time to step the mast making sure you record all the electrics. In
my case this meant that it is the time to refurbish the mast …. Didn’t think
of that in the beginning and it was not in my line of sight so to speak.. so
mast new wiring, lights refurb fittings and re-rig. It probably has not been
Page 35
DIY refurbing the keel
done in years—if the keel is in need of some TLC so bear this in mind as it
will add to the refit cost. Furthermore, it is not a job that will be done by a
yard quoting on the keel unless requested.
Next on the list—by now you are on a cradle or sitting on some sleepers - is
to remove all the cabin sole lids, the seating cushions and the back rest
from the U shape seating area. To do this you need to find all the screws
holding the one piece back rest to the furniture ( see the photos 2 ) Some
of these are inside the upholstery so careful manipulation with a
screwdriver will locate them and not damage the material.
After all the seating area is cleared away the wonderful joys of removing
the water tank begins.
See the digital version for
It is well known that boat builders take great more photos
joy in building things inside things so that
maintenance is impossible . This is the case of
the water tank of the S100 .
In my case to remove the tank I had to first
remove the pipes leading to the water pump.
This involves wriggling underneath the cabin
sole to reach the hose clips and removing the
hose. It’s easier to write it than to do it I
promise! Next remove the bronze hose tail
from the tank ..but It was not possible so the
tail had to be cut off and a slot cut to lift the
tank out ( photo). One of the things that still
amazes me is just how blocked up this fitting
was and it is a reminder of how important
servicing every part of a boat is.
I now had to cut away 5mm all around the lip above the tank and cut a slot
to clear the remainder of the hose tail. (Photo) . To remove the tank it was
necessary to free it away from the batons then stand it on its end by brute
force. I then worked a towing strap under the tank and with the help of a
6ft 3 inch Lithuanian strongman by the name of Renatas deadlift the thing
clear .. funny thing is I was able to put it back on my own assisted by
Page 36
DIY refurbing the keel
nothing more than a stream of profanities.
There is a big point here …. I was told and was expecting to see ONE bolt
under the tank .. there were TWO. I am not sure if there is any sound
information regarding the position and quantity of bolts in these boats but
make sure you find them all.
Having now found and freed and re tightened all the bolts it is time to think
about just how you will drop the grounding plate …. Or lift the boat off the
grounding plate …
This is where things get very interesting. First you have to hope that at
some stage the grounding plate has never been taken off and put back with
Sikaflex or an adhesive like that because well… it works and your plate is
well and truly stuck in place .This would involve a whole lot more effort,
but it is not covered here as Lady Grace’s keel was untouched . Regardless
of this there is a 3.5 + ton lump of cast iron
that you want to safely part from your pride
and joy. After discussions with the good folk
at Burnham we opted to suspend the boat
an inch or two over a keel cradle and hope that gravity would play its part
in the proceedings. Everything in place and all nuts removed on a Friday
afternoon Lady Grace was lifted—an inch or two-off the keel cradle and
nothing happened ……… Saturday nothing is happening … is this thing stuck
up there was the question ... I then very carefully took a bolster and club
hammer, tapped at the filler that was around the plate—there is a
Page 37
DIY refurbing the keel
surprising amount of the stuff, as it fell away I heard the grounding plate
make a sort of sticky slurping sound and the plate dropped down onto the
cradle .
When I next saw the boat Lady Grace was sitting in a Cradle and the
Grounding plate was on the “stones” … it was clear that any attempt to
free the lifting
plate would be
foolish due to the
level of corrosion
and a serious
foundry with
heavy equipment
was needed.
Luckily I knew of
one - Irons
Brothers who
picked the keel up
and returned it
looking like new.
They offer a
fantastic service.
They are so nice that even though we forgot to put the shiny new lifting
plate on the truck they fitted another and said just return the other
sometime …
Putting the lot back together was still a chore but Lady Grace dropped onto
her refurbished keel like a dream and furnished with some cracking new
Dynema pennants (photo) I then refitted all the interior. The reality of the
mast slowed things down but we are about to launch again and go on
further adventures together. Such adventures as are only possible on a
Southerly .
Page 38
DIY refurbing the keel
Footnote
I can now understand that this is a hard job to quote for as a yard is unable
to tell what has been done to the keel in previous years so the removal can
run into many problems. I will offer an opinion with regards overhauling
the keel and plate. This is a very heavy lump of Iron and will need serious
equipment to handle it. No average yard nor engineering company will
have the kit to deal with this
and attempting to self
disassemble will in all
likelihood end in tears and a
greater bill than is necessary,
especially if heavy corrosion is
present .
Send the thing to Irons
Brothers—they made it and
they know what they are
doing. For your part focus on
how
you take it off and put it back on. Oh and on a Theo Ioannou
final note, make sure you have found all the
Lady Grace S100
bolts.
Mirror on the Lock
Page 39
Hightime to the Netherlands
I became aware last year of the Standing Mast Route(s) in the Netherlands;
further enquiries also revealed the excellent cycling infrastructure in Hol-
land. While I had never sailed to the Netherlands before, and had only visit-
ed very briefly once before long ago (when I flew a light aircraft into Schipol
for a day trip from Guernsey!), the combination of relaxed sailing, mooring
our Southerly 38 ‘Hightime’ in the very centre of charming Dutch towns and
exploring the surrounding areas by bike seemed like a perfect match, given
that my wife, Diana, enjoys cycling. Diana agreed; great!
Many enjoyable hours were spent last winter researching routes, places to
visit, customs clearance requirements, how to use ‘box’ berths and whether
Passing East Brake PHB, at the east end of the Ramsgate
approach channel, at 3.42am (over an hour before sunrise).
our air draft (just over 20m) might be too high for the route we wished to
follow from Vlissingen to Amsterdam. Two of the guide books recorded a
maximum clearance of 17m/18m which was surprising given that some of
the bridges were supposed to lift to 34m. Could the problem be the over-
head cables, the clearance of which was not stated on our charts? Perse-
verance duly paid off; the cables are not an issue whereas two of the large
lock complexes have fixed bridges over the ‘sportboat’ locks with clearances
of only 18.5m, but we would be able to request passage through the adja-
cent commercial lock.
Folding bikes which would fit in our aft lazarette lockers were bought, and
Page 40
Hightime to the Netherlands
snap davits were fitted to the transom so that the dinghy didn’t have to be
stored in one of those lockers. Passing the CEVNI test is not compulsory for
yachts under 15m, but was well worth doing.
Next was the choice of
route to take to the Vlis-
singen sea lock, at the
southern end of the Stand-
ing Mast Route. I would
be sailing single-handed,
so needed harbours or
anchorages en-route with
relatively easy access and
a convenient port of entry
to clear customs into the
Hightime moored in a box in Goes Stadhaven Schengen zone. Dun-
kerque was not an option
as the Police aux Frontier office is 10km from the marina. Knowing that
Belgian officials had been less than keen on boats with red diesel in their
tanks I opted to sail first to Ramsgate, then direct to Breskens on the south
side of the Westerschelde where the marina is accessible 24/7 without
having to lock in. And the customs service in the Netherlands is super-
convenient, as the customs officers come to the boat – a fantastic service.
The passage from our home port of Eastbourne to Ramsgate was une-
ventful. I departed Ramsgate at 3.00am on 6th July, timed to catch maxi-
mum favourable tide while also having sufficient daylight to see lobster pot
buoys by the time I left the approach channel to Ramsgate Harbour. Cross-
ing the TSS meant having to turn south-eastwards, against the stream; hav-
ing considered several options, I opted to cross the traffic lanes at separate
locations with an eastwards leg across the Sandettie separation zone. The
strategy worked well and I arrived into Breskens before sunset, having
flown three different courtesy flags in one day – a first for me.
Passing East Brake PHB, at the east end of the Ramsgate approach channel,
at 3.42am (over an hour before sunrise).
Page 41
Hightime to the Netherlands
With customs duly cleared and my passport stamped, I crossed the Wester-
schelde the following day. There was some conflicting advice about the two
sea locks at Vlissingen; a VHF call to the lock keeper confirmed that there
are timbers in the water in the northern lock, so fenders have to be set trail-
ing in the water, another first for me. Being single-handed I timed my arri-
val to when the sea level matched the water level in the canal, in the hope
that would minimise flows within the lock. The Waterkaarten-Nederland
app (by biggerworks.com) includes real-time tidal height readings which
provided welcome reassurance that my calculations were correct. The
flows were limited so securing Hightime with a single spring and keeping the
engine idling in gear was sufficient.
Diana joined me at the VVW Schelde marina the following day. From there
our route through Zeeland took us to Middelburg, Veere and Goes, in each
case moored alongside the quay in the historic centre of the town, and final-
ly to the marina at Willemstad. The welcome was universally friendly.
When exploring on our bikes we were also delighted to find that not only do
most roads have separate cycle ways, or failing that cycle lanes, but cycles
also have priority at most junctions. So virtually no one riding their sturdy
‘sit up and beg’ bikes wears cycle helmets.
Mooring in Goes was slightly eventful; the guides indicated that 40’ yachts
would lie alongside in the tiny Stadhaven, rather than using one of the box
berths, but as we entered the Stadhaven the harbourmaster told us to use a
box because Hightime was too wide (we would have restricted boats enter-
ing/leaving boxes). Our lines were not made up for a box berth; I motored
slowly to the top end of the tiny harbour to give Diana time to switch to a
longer bow line, then took Hightime astern into the allotted box. Half way
in the prop started making a horrendous noise; we completed the manoeu-
vre as quickly as possible and killed the engine, suspecting that the prop
might have dropped a blade. I dived on it early the following morning and
found all was well, phew, so guess that some debris had got into the prop
and/or the rope stripper.
In the canals we generally motored, but were able to sail in the Veerse Meer
and the Oosterschelde. In the north-east arm of the Oosterschelde we were
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Hightime to the Netherlands
hailed by a Belgian yacht which had suffered engine failure and was trying
unsuccessfully to beat to windward with only a jib and a mizzen. We furled
our sails and took them in tow, leaving them by the Krammersluizen sport-
boat lock where they had arranged for friends to meet them, before turning
ourselves to go through the commercial lock. Another pleasant sail took us
to the commercial lock at Volkerak Sluizen.
From Wilhelmstad we sailed east through Hollands Diep, then motored
north up Dordtsche Kil past Dordrecht to Gouda where we moored on the
waiting fence to be ready for the first lift of the Gouda railway bridge the
following morning.
After passing the Gouda rail bridge, we had a further eleven bridges to
transit on 13th July including the three critical hefbrugs which could have
blocked our route because they were only able to lift to 12m in 2021
(apparently owing to limited maintenance during Covid restrictions). Our
earlier research had indicated that they would be able to lift to a just ade-
quate 22m, and in the event all three lifted to 24m for us (we understand
that remains their maximum possible lift height for the time being).
The next two nights were spent at anchor in the Kaagerplassen, an area of
lakes and islands reminis-
cent of the Norfolk Broads.
The timing was fortuitous
as this was the start of the
heatwave so instead of cy-
cling into Leiden we stayed
on board and swam to keep
cool. We had intended our
next stop to be moored in
the centre of Haarlem, but
as we approached we
learnt from the Waterkaar-
ten app that the Approaching one of the three critical hefbrugs
Schouwbroekerbrug, the
first of the ten bridges on the river Spaarn through Haarlem, was closed. A
call to the harbourmaster confirmed that it had been jammed by the heat
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Hightime to the Netherlands
and was unlikely to open again for at least two days. We retreated to the
Molenplas, a lake to the east of the Standing Mast Route, from where we
able to walk into Haarlem the following day to visit museums and enjoy the
ambience of a delightful city centre. A visit to the Grote Kerk of St Bravo to
hear the huge organ that was played by both Handel and Mozart is also a
must for all lovers of music.
Having seen most of what we wanted to see in Haarlem, we had planned to
go straight through to Amsterdam on 17th July but as we approached the
last of the ten bridges it suffered a mechanical failure. The whole of the
afternoon was spent moored on the waiting fence while technicians tried,
failed and then succeeded to repair the bridge, so ‘plan B’ took us to the
Haarlemsche Jachtclub on the delightfully named Mooie Nel. Our lifting
keel came in handy as parts of that lake are quite shallow.
Having all the traffic stopped for you on the six lane motorway at Spaarn-
dam for one yacht (us) to pass through was quite special. For obvious rea-
sons bridge lifts are limited in both number and duration, and most lifts are
for boats travelling in only one direction. The southbound Bavaria which
was clearly hoping to sneak through on our lift was told to go away!
Sixhaven Marina is sometimes described as iconic, given its location in the
centre of Amsterdam while being surrounded by trees. It is also super-
convenient for two (free) cross-river ferries to Central Station. As a result it
is extremely popular and has a reputation for over-crowding. No arrivals
are permitted before 12.00 noon, so arriving just after 12.00 was a good
plan. The first berth we were directed to was too narrow, so we were put
directly opposite the entrance with no chance of getting blocked in – per-
fect! By that evening the northern half of the marina was a solid mass of
boats, including in all the channels. We explored the city on bikes and spent
the whole of the following day in the famous Rijksmuseum.
We left Amsterdam on Sunday 24th July, passed through the Oranjesluizen
and into the Markermeer where it was a joy to be able to sail again after
several days of motoring. The Markermeer is suffering from extensive weed
growth so we kept strictly to the channels in the affected areas. Water-
planten.nu is a very helpful app which maps the density of weed growth and
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Hightime to the Netherlands
shows areas where the weed has been mown in the past 1 or 2 weeks. We
stood well off the north-west coast of the island of Marken in order to avoid
mapped weed before turning south into the Gouwzee and following the
channels to Monnickendam. We collected quite a lot of weed on our twin
rudders, some of which we could remove with a boathook while sailing and
most of the rest was cleared once stern-to in a box berth. The following day
was spent cycling to Edam, which was quaint and much smaller than we ex-
pected, and then Volendam.
There is no channel up to Hoorn and one boat we met said their single rud-
der got completely jammed by the weed close to Hoorn. So we headed
straight for Enkhuizen, enjoying a good sail in increasing breeze then passing
through the Naviduct above the dual carriageway along the 30km long
Afsluitdijk which separates the Markermeer and the IJsselmeer.
The Zuiderzee Museum
at Enkhuizen comprises
a re-created typical vil-
lage with buildings re-
located from all around
the Zuiderzee, together
with an indoor muse-
um; we spent a whole
day there and still had-
n’t seen it all.
Our destination on 28th
July was Oudeschild on
Texel. Another good
sail across the IJsselmeer, passing several traditional Dutch barges, took us
to our final lock, the Stevinsluis at Den Oever, and back into tidal waters –
the Waddenzee. After negotiating the narrow channel and 90° bend into
the marina at Oudeschild the havenmeester demonstrated what we had
found was a characteristic Dutch sense of humour, saying that he didn’t
have any suitable berths then telling us to follow him (to an ideal berth).
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Hightime to the Netherlands
Diana was due to depart by train from Den Helder on 1st August which pre-
cluded visiting any of the other Dutch islands, so we spent two days cycling
around Texel and visiting nature reserves. Dawn on 31st July brought rain,
our first of the trip, variable visibility and southerly winds dead on the nose
for the short passage to Den Helder. We opted to motor. There are several
marinas at Den Helder, though only the KMJC marina is accessible without
locking in. The adjoining Royal Netherlands Navy Yacht Club is recommend-
ed for good local cooking and a great view over the Marsdiep channel to
Texel.
Having seen Diana onto her train the following morning I departed Den Hel-
der and headed south, bound for Scheveningen which is conveniently locat-
ed about halfway to the Westerschelde. The marina at Scheveningen has
one large bay for visiting yachts (passenten); I had spoken to them by
phone and been assured that no booking was required, just turn up and
there will be space. By the time I arrived at around 8.30pm there were al-
ready three rows of seven boats in each filling the full width of the southern
part of the bay; by the time I returned from the supermarket an hour later
Hightime was also in a row of seven boats and there was another full row
ahead of us and a partial row beyond that. The marina staff had departed
at 7.00pm after which berthing is a free-for-all (though you still have to pay
on their app)!
Several boats wished to depart at 5.30am the following morning, to catch
the north-going stream. Fortunately that included some of the late arrivals
and sufficient gaps were opened in the rows to let out those who needed to
leave; only two of us had to move out and re-moor, going astern and having
to slalom through the outer two rows owing to the different numbers now
moored on each side of the bay. The following night the bay was complete-
ly full and marina staff appeared to be turning some arrivals away before
7.00pm. So, if anyone wishes to visit Scheveningen during the Dutch school
holidays, I would recommend arriving early and mooring near the north end
of the visitors’ bay.
The passage back to Breskens was straight-forward. The customs officers
duly arrived the following afternoon and were as friendly as they had been
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Hightime to the Netherlands
on my arrival almost a month earlier. After a short sleep I cast off and
headed out into the Westerschelde, bound for Eastbourne. It was one of
those magical sails with a glorious sunset, a fair wind and a favourable tide
for the first eight hours. Once darkness fell, most of the horizon to sea-
ward was a mass of red lights on the Dutch and Belgian wind turbines,
some constant and some flashing; there were so many that they formed
an almost a continuous strip of red lights over several miles.
After passing Zeebrugge I kept to the channels between sand banks where
Sunset over the North Sea
I had seen no pot buoys on the way north. The wind eased for a while so I
opted to motorsail against the tide once that turned foul, reverting to pure
sailing as the wind returned. By the time I crossed the narrowest point of
the TSS to the east of Dover it was blowing a force 5 gusting force 6, and
some poor soul was attempting a Channel swim! A fast sail ensued to
Dungeness, for a while achieving more than 7 kts over the ground, against
the flood tide. Thereafter the wind became more fickle and I eventually
resorted to motoring the final stretch, arriving back into Sovereign Har-
bour by 5.30pm giving a total passage of 138 nautical miles in 22.5 hours;
my longest single-handed passage to date.
I amended and re-issued the e-C1331 form for the passage, took the Q flag
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Hightime to the Netherlands
down once that had been acknowledged by Border Force, and poured a
celebratory beer.
It had been a great cruise, meeting charming people in inspiring places.
The amount of engineering that the Dutch have invested in vast locks, em-
bankments (dijks) and a whole assortment of lifting bridges in order to pro-
tect their land and create polders is hugely impressive. Moreover, use of
that is (almost) all free. On a personal level, what made it a low-stress and
enjoyable trip for me as skipper was the amount of pre-planning that had
gone into the cruise knowing that once we were east of Ramsgate we
would be into waters that I had never sailed before. That was time well
spent. The superb weather did, of course, help to make it even more mem-
orable.
Keith Gabriel
Hightime S38
Middleburg, Binnehaven
Page 48
To all members, here is handy
page to cut out to hand to Non
SOA members if you so desire
Why join the Southerly Owners’ Association?
Annual Fee of £20 per year
• Access to a Technical Forum for all items Southerly Yachts
• The ability to contribute to the Forum
• 2 full colour magazines published every year
• Access to a Private Social Media platform for all items
Southerly
• Exclusive privileges at our well attended Rallies
• An annual rendezvous of Southerlies
• 25% discount on first years fee on joining the CA by direct
debit (quote code SOU25OA)
• Discount at Premier Mariners
• Great friendly fellow Southerly owners
• 10% discount at all services at Northshore Boatyard
• 10% discount at Tecsew.com
• RYA affiliated club and associated benefits.
Chairman—Nigel Campling
Tel: 07775 605665
Email – [email protected]
Membership Secretary
email – [email protected]
www.southerlyowners.com
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