DINE 2008-09

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contents

From The Editor 8

Sara Waxman

Contributors 10

New York State of Dine 30

by Tim & Nina Zagat

A Neighbourhood Guide to Noshing in Miami 16

by Barney Rosenzweig

The Vegas Experience! 22

by Robin Leach

Los Angeles, Then and Now 28

by George Christy

The Toronto Style 12

by Sara Waxman

Niagara: From Architecture To Ice Wine 20

by Tony Aspler

Hawaiian Love Song – The Magic Of Maui 32

Photography (top to bottom): Courtesy of Joël Robuchon, MGM Grand Hotel; Edward Pond; courtesy of Lahaina Grill, Maui by Sara Waxman

Shopping At Pusateri’s 14

by Sara Waxman

Mark’d For Glory 39

by Sara Waxman

Madame President 36

by Sara Waxman

Glossary 38

Abalone to Zabaglione

Your Guide to Memorable Meals 43
51
Contemporary 65
Italian 70
East Meets West 77
Euro Moderne 87
French 91
Steak 96
American Casual
Supper Club and Lounge

Directory 100

Index 102

ON THE COVER 7
Photographed on location at Globe Bistro
Photography: GEORGE SIMHONI, Westside Studio
Stylist: Kurt Salt, Judy Inc.; Hair and Makeup: Cait Mizzi, Judy Inc.;
Model: Kirsten, Elmer Olsen Models

DINE 2008

FROM THE Sara Waxman Publisher Yanka Van der Kolk
Peter Roston, C.A. Partner and CEO
EDITOR Jay Mandarino Partner

Good cooking speaks in every language, but in Sara Waxman
only one voice: a sensual, passionate voice that Editor In Chief
all food lovers understand.
That is why, over the past year, neither politics, Vivian Vassos
gas prices, nor inclement weather have dulled our Managing Editor
desire to go out for a really good dinner. In Toronto,
food, restaurants and the dining-out scene are still Lorraine Bates
the fashionable cause célèbre—with the most Design and Production
fashion-forward detail of all being higher prices. Still,
there are dining-out bargains in this cosmopolitan Clare Douglas
city. In these pages, you will find what’s new, what is Editorial Assistant
still good, and where to eat that will suit your mood,
palate and budget. For monthly updates, see our Adam Waxman
website, www.dinemagazine.ca Research Assistant
As a restaurant critic and food writer in this city for
more than 25 years, I have watched our dining out Contributing Writers
scene diversify, pick up international influences and Tony Aspler, George Christy, Robin Leach,
transform. This year at DINE, we have broadened Barney Rosenzweig, Tim and Nina Zagat
our scope and brought you the expert opinions
of leading authorities on dining out in New York, Contributing Artist
Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Miami and, of course, Tobaron Waxman
right here in Toronto. Our mandate is to inform,
and inclusion in this magazine means a Website Design
recommended status by dining out professionals. William Stratas, Planetcast
We know you will find it invaluable. Don’t let anyone
borrow it—you’ll have a hard time getting it back. Executive Offices
Warning: Leafing through these pages may give you DINE Magazine Inc.
insatiable hunger urges that can only be satisfied by 164 Cumberland Street, Suite 704
a dining out fix! Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5R 1A8

8 DINE 2008 (T) 416 920-7257

www.dinemagazine.ca

DINE is published annually by DINE Magazine Inc.,
164 Cumberland Street, Suite 704, Toronto, ON M5R 1A8.
The contents of DINE are copyright 2008 by DINE Magazine Inc.
and may not be reprinted without the express written permission
of the publisher.

DINE Magazine Inc. is printed in Canada by
C.J. Graphics Inc., Printers & Lithographers,
134 Park Lawn Road, Toronto, ON M8Y 3H9
www.cjgraphics.com

ISSN 1916-0933 DINE Magazine Inc.

NORTH AMERICAN PREMIERE

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present

PERFORMANCES BEGIN OCTOBER 3

416-872-1212 1-800-461-3333 MIRVISH.COM

PRINCESS OF WALES THEATRE 300 KING STREET WEST

Robin CONTRIBUTORS
Leach
This September marks the 24th
Upon arrival in America in 1963, Robin Leach wrote for a number of year that George Christy is
publications (New York Daily News, People, Ladies Home Journal) hosting his annual Saturday
before launching GO Magazine and then was show business editor luncheon at the Four Seasons
of The Star and Rupert Murdoch’s worldwide publications for 10 Hotel during the first weekend of
years. In 1980, he joined CNN’s “People Tonight” and also helped the Toronto International Film
launch Entertainment Tonight, for which he was roving editor for its Festival. “How did it begin? I
first three years. In 1983, Robin created Lifestyles Of The Rich & wanted my Canadian friends to
Famous, which ran for 14 unprecedented years. Currently Leach is get together,” he says, “and
partnering in a new state of the art HD television studio production celebrate the festival with a dash
facility in Las Vegas where he makes numerous guest appearances of Hollywood players.” The Los
on programs from the resort playground/gaming Mecca. In addition, Angeles-based Christy has lived
his Total Vegas Television company produces Vegas video vignettes the writer’s life since childhood,
and a daily LuxeLife Internet journal. www.lasvegasmagazine.com when he wrote and published his
Scribble and Scratch newspaper
for schoolmates. After college
graduation and serving in the

George U.S. Army, he spent 11 years as
a roving editor for Town & Country
magazine, writing hundreds of

Christy articles and his “Are You With It?”
column. Invited to join the
Hollywood Reporter, he then
wrote his “The Great Life” column thrice-weekly for 26 years, and now writes a
weekly column for the Beverly Hills Courier, and a monthly column for the Nob Hill
Gazette in San Francisco. He published a novel, All I Could See from Where I
Stood, after college, and later a critical book, The Los Angeles Underground
Gourmet, about dining in Los Angeles and Palm Springs. Asked by his Simon &
Schuster publisher to update the book, he apologized, “I simply don't have the
desire or stamina to eat all that bad food.”

Tony Tony has been writing about wine Barney
Aspler C.M. for more than 30 years. He was the Rosenzweig
wine columnist for The Toronto Star
for 21 years and has authored 14 Photography: Rosemary Goldhar (George Christy); Steven Elphick (Tony Aspler)
books on wine and food, including
The Wine Atlas of Canada, The Wine
Lover’s Companion and his latest
book, The Definitive Canadian Wine
& Cheese Cookbook (with chef Gurth
Pretty). In February 2001, Tony
co-founded Grapes for Humanity, a
charitable foundation, with Arlene
Willis. Tony is the creator of the
annual Ontario Wine Awards
competition, an honourary governor
of Cuvée and a director of the
Independent Wine & Spirit Trust.
Tony writes for a number of
international magazines, including
Wine Spectator. In December 2007,
Tony Aspler was awarded the Order
of Canada. www.tonyaspler.com

Tim & Nina One of television’s most honoured producers (Cagney & Lacey, John Steinbeck’s
Zagat East of Eden, The Trials of Rosie O’Neill, Christy), two-time Emmy Award winner
Barney Rosenzweig is now in the process of collecting even more awards for his
recently released memoir, Cagney & Lacey... and Me OR How I Learned to Stop
Worrying and Love the Blonde. A native of Los Angeles, Rosenzweig now resides
on Fisher Island just off the coast of Miami Beach where, for the past 12 years, he
has reveled in the area’s primary cultural activity, dining out at the glittering city’s
many and varied eateries. He indulges this happy pastime with his wife,
multi-award winning actress, Sharon Gless.

Zagat Survey was launched in 1979 as a hobby by Nina and Tim Zagat, who
pioneered rating restaurants through public opinion surveys, first conducted on
paper questionnaires and now online via the internet. The Survey became so
popular that it rapidly developed into a full-time publishing enterprise. Nina Zagat
was named one of Crain’s New York 100 Most Influential Women in 2007.
Mrs. Zagat earned an LL.B. from Yale Law School in 1966 and a B.A. from Vassar
College in 1963. She spent 24 years as a Wall Street attorney. She also attended
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine. Tim has served four years as the chairman of
NYC & Company and is currently a member of the Executive Committee. He is
currently a board member and vice president of Careers through Culinary Arts
Program (C-CAP). Tim earned an L.L.B. from Yale Law School in 1966 and a B.A.
from Harvard College in 1961.

10 DINE 2008

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THE TORONTO STYLE

Sara Waxman tastes and tells

“Dining is the new gardening,” said a friend recently, while we lunched at a sparkling new, totally organic restaurant in
Yorkville. Just a few decades ago, the hot topic was heirloom roses and ground cover. Today, it’s heirloom tomatoes
and organic farming. The word on everyone’s lips is food: growing it, buying it, eating it. Twice roasted. Naturally raised.
Corn fed. Dishes for sharing. Sustainable agriculture. We have become a city of epicures. We want nothing less than to
fulfill our fork-driven lust.

We are enhancing bottled water! Water, the source of substance and life. In olden days, we turned on the tap and there it
was. Look for water lists in the near future: flat, sparkling, flavoured, caffeinated, smart water, mineralized, in jewel-toned
glass bottles from every corner of the world. Or, we can proudly order plain old tap water. We like ours straight—without
lemon or lime, sans sliced fruits or vegetables.

The dining-out public has thrown down the gauntlet, challenging owners and
restaurateurs to forego the tried and true, think globally and search the markets for
fresh and unusual food combinations.

Now, more than ever, the tastemakers in the city fall into three categories. There are the keepers of the flame, those
guardians of classic menus who change little in their fine dining rooms (except the sauces and sides) to honour the
demands of their clientele. Exemplary execution of every dish is expected and received.

Then there are the risk-hungry, young chefs who never travel the same road twice, indulging in brash culinary

experimentation that often leaves us breathless. Rejecting the appetizer/entrée/dessert trio, they present an appetizing

list of small and medium size dishes on an eat-as-you-go basis. Glorious snack bar tasting menus to share, defy easy

definition, but the unusual concepts enthrall young dining adventurers. >>>

Tobaron Waxman

1728 DINE 2008

Still, it is the neighbourhood bistro, where low-key As dining becomes more
charm usurps flashy drama, that is the backbone of deeply integrated into our
the industry. Smaller is bigger. Hands-on, owner/chefs culture, we are developing
who want to call their own shots, and fastidiously a food-style from which a
scour the local markets to put the freshest seasonal sophisticated local cuisine
fare on our plates in a delectable, pleasing manner. appears to be emerging.
Gastronomes in the know stake their claims and find The Toronto style.
their own hidden gems.
George Simhoni, Westside Studio
As dining becomes more deeply integrated into our
culture, we are developing a food-style from which a
sophisticated local cuisine appears to be emerging.
The Toronto style.

While the debate between Omnivores and Herbivores
continues, it has diminished slightly in its intensity to
make way for Locavores. The advocates of 100 Mile
Cuisine, a group of concerned culinary adventurers
which began in San Francisco, staunchly support the
idea of “eating local.” Local is not a noun in this case,
it simply means eating only foods grown and raised
within a 100 mile radius of our home. Besides
supporting local farmers, this gives us the flavour
and nutrients of food that ripens on the vine and in
the garden (rather than on a truck).

New restaurants keep opening in waves. Why certain
streets breed restaurants and others don’t is not really
a mystery, considering real estate prices and condo
developments, but the latest to reach critical culinary
mass include King Street W., Leslieville, and Liberty
Village. Add these to Queen, College, Yorkville,
Eglinton, mid-town Yonge Street, and, as a British
visitor to our town pointed out recently, finally there
are more good restaurants in Toronto than banks.

Many movers behind the scenes have been bitten by
the love-of-food bug, and have decided to become
shakers. Silent partners are becoming more vocal,
more interested and involved in their investments and
are adding their business acumen to restaurants
previously run only on passion. It’s a lot more fun to sit
at a special corner table than behind a desk in an office.

We live in anxious socio-economic times, and do not
seek further risk-taking and intellectual challenge
when going out for dinner. We want security without
swagger, comfort food that we recognize. We want to
play things safe. We are Canadian. Pork belly and
short ribs. We want meat and potatoes.

Steak houses are proliferating in Toronto, and now
offer the finest cuts of the world’s beef. USDA Prime
from the American grain belt, Kobe from Japan,
and AAA Alberta beef sit in temperature controlled,
glassed-in ageing rooms, on display like jewels
at Tiffany.

There are over five thousand restaurants in this
city, offering the cuisines of more than 70 countries.
No matter which town or hamlet in the world you
come from, you will find home cooking here in
Canada’s most urbane dining scene, Toronto.

DINE 2008 13

Shopping at Locations:
1539 Avenue Road, Toronto
Pusateri’s 57 Yorkville Avenue, Toronto

BY SARA WAXMAN

Cosimo Pusateri had a vision.
He believed that people wanted
to travel by their taste buds.

Twenty-two years ago, when the menu served at table in
Toronto was basic meat and potatoes, parsley was the herb
du jour and we were just discovering the joys of pasta,
Cosimo, his wife Ida and his family opened a small
specialty food store in what was then a residential area.
By following his dream and bringing the fine foods of the
world to the public, he altered the landscape of this city’s
eating habits.

These days, there is a perennial traffic jam around Avenue
Road and Lawrence. Drivers just throw up their hands
and say “Pusateri’s,” with a smile. To the passersby, this
modest building gives no hint of the treasures displayed
on shelves and counters inside. It’s just a neighbourhood
grocery store, and yet…

Flawless, unblemished fruits and vegetables are stacked
in harmonious symmetry. Peaches the size of grapefruits,
bunches of grapes in translucent clusters, oranges that
perfume the air; perfectly ripe tomatoes with the scent of
leaf and vine still clinging to their shiny, taught skin.
Paradise for a foodie. A feast for the gastronomic soul.
To the less fanatic shopper, it is the satisfaction of knowing
that they are purchasing the best. I close my eyes for a
moment and inhale. Aromatherapy.

There is a mood that prevails in these grocery aisles filled
with 52,000 specialty products. It is one of calm, privilege
and joy. Although one could experience a twinge of anxiety
when faced with 400 gleaming bottles and crocks of
carefully selected olive oils to choose from.

I spend an intense period surveying the
cheeses of the world as well as the fresh
artisanal products from local boutique
cheese makers. Tasting, sniffing, touching,
I am almost overcome with the desire to
scoop up a half dozen, grab some fresh
bread and run home to feast.

At the meat department, I reach to take a numbered ticket.
It’s 1:15 and there have been 87 people ahead of me,
buying up perfect veal medallions, 100% Japanese Wagyu
beef that boasts a certificate of authenticity, USDA Prime,
the famous Barbarian rib steak that could feed a family or
make a hungry man very happy; elegant chateaubriand;

>>>

14 DINE 2008

roasts and chops trimmed as if with a razor. Sausages, meats and chickens exude appetizing freshness. One can buy
them raw, completely cooked, or at any stage of preparation to finish off at home. In fact, I could even take a chef home
with ingredients of my choice and have an interactive dinner party with friends.

The fish and seafood section takes me to an aquatic world of fin and crustacean. Bright eyed branzino, snapper, orato
and other plump fish that were swimming mere hours ago, languish on banks of ice. Lively lobsters await adoption in a
tank of clear water; clams, oysters and cultivated mussels are here temporarily. They will be gone by the end of the day.

Each one of the specialty items are chosen and tasted by Ida Pusateri, General Manager John Mastroianni and
taste-tested with customers. “We all travel the world and as soon as we arrive at our destination,” says John, “we head
for the specialty food stores. It’s fun when we see products on the shelves that we carry in our stores. All the specialty
products go through our hands—and many are brought to us by our customers who travel and bring back food items
to show us.”

A few years ago, a customer took John aside and said, “I can’t keep going to Italy and filling up my suitcase with Illy
coffee, you’ve got to bring it in here.” John pointed to the Illy coffee display. “We just started carrying it.”

Each one of the specialty items
are chosen and tasted by Ida
Pusateri, General Manager
John Mastroianni and
taste-tested with customers.

Rosanna Pusateri, Sara Waxman, Ida Pusateri, John Mastroianni

“We take a lot of pride in finding the rare and the obscure,” he continues, “we do not want to follow a trend, we want to
make the trend. We follow our customers’ needs.”

In 1986, Ida’s mother’s great Italian home cooking was integrated into the store. Her homemade lasagna, meatballs in
tomato sauce, and all the Sunday dinner specialties made just the way that Cosimo liked them, spearheaded the trend
of “retail home cooking.” “Don’t worry mom,” he would say, “just make it the way you make it at home.” The response
was immediate and overwhelming. People loved serving their families restaurant style meals from Pusateri’s that were
made fresh several times a day.

Pusateri’s runs on a triumvirate of trust. “There is trust between the suppliers and ourselves, and trust between the
customers and ourselves. It is important to maintain these relationships, it’s expected,” says John, explaining one of
the secrets of their success.

They know the lifestyles of the customers, adhere to the requests and demands and stay on top of it all. The customers
like fresh flowers in their homes. So, across the driveway to the parking lot, they’ve created a vibrant, full service,
Home & Garden Centre where floral designers create arrangements for the smallest to the grandest of occasions. As
with the global and local food policy, you can find unique blossoms and plants. “If you’ve got a beautiful vase, bring it
in to us and we’ll fill it,” says John, “we don’t need to sell another vase.”

Pusateri’s has become a brand name. It reaches out to the world and brings it back.
As one regular customer tells me, “If they go public, I’m buying stock.”

The Yorkville location, housed in a luxury Minto residence, has a personality of its own. As more multi-million dollar
condos spring up to surround this shop, its residents will have the extra special amenity of ordering hotel style room
service from Pusateri’s. A special menu for the Regency, the Minto and others is available from the full-size kitchens,
and can be delivered with alacrity. A brilliant plan.

Still, the secret weapon is the eye and palate of Ida Pusateri. “If you’re pleasing Ida,” says John, “you’re pleasing
everyone.”

DINE 2008 15

A Neighbourhood Guide
to Noshing in Miami

Down Miami way, Whole neighbourhoods have erupted almost overnight, mostly at or very Courtesy Greater Miami C.V.B
there are a whole near the waterfront, where there is no opportunity to widen streets and
lotta changes, little inclination by the city to provide public transportation or parking
says Barney spaces for automobiles.
Rosenzweig; for
anyone who hasn’t One result, other than congestion, is new restaurants. A street-front scene
visited the self- of smallish, storefront-like and friendly eateries, where folks can walk out
appointed capital of their apartments, eschew their cars and the too-trafficked streets and
of Latin America scooch in next to a bowl of pasta and the pretty gal they saw poolside
in a while, the only hours before. It is a local’s scene and—occasionally—the prices
downtown skyline suggest that. Mostly, however, it is still Miami and the Beaches, so
is unrecognizable, bring your plastic.
as is that of nearby
Miami Beach Another result? None of these places are yet ready for prime time, which
is why you will be better served, literally and figuratively, by disdaining
16 DINE 2008 the new and hitting the neighborhoods for the tried and true.

Miami Beach

Joe Allen’s looks nothing like the semi-hot spot in New York’s theatrical
district, but it is definitely in that idiom of friendly food with, arguably,
Miami Beach’s finest hamburger (well, next to Prime One Twelve, but now
we have changed leagues). The liver and onions is something of which the
Joe Allen folks can be proud, as are the French fries, desserts and the bar.

Do not get too adventurous here, however, or you will be disappointed.
If you are the litigious type, the La Scala salad is actionable as a fraud
against anything Italian, or even the chopped salad served at the La Scala
restaurant in Beverly Hills. Parking is of the public variety, so bring change
for the meters.

Right in the heart of Miami Beach, near 15th and Washington across the
street from the colorful promenade of Espanola Way, is the venerable

>>>

C D
E
R T C S E
E O T L
R E
A AN U M
IC C E
T LE T N
I SP U T
O R S
T A
NS L

FLORALBYCULTURE [email protected]
416.816.6020 WWW.FLORALCULTURE.COM

Osteria Del Teatro. Best osso buco in South Florida and a black linguini with Photography (top to bottom): Edward Pond; courtesy Prime One Twelve (2)
mussels, clams, shrimp and a saffron sauce that will have you writing articles
for DINE magazine. Good luck on finding a parking place, and did
I mention that Miami Beach is a very good cab town?

North Miami

Five miles or so to the North of the South Beach craziness is Las Vacas Gordas
(The Fat Cows), a neighbourhood joint by which it would be unfair
to judge all other joints. An Argentinean Parrilada in a town full of them,
this is the church where the others should come to worship. Owner Louie,
a Uruguayan, by the way, is there with his Rosie every night, but this is in
no way a momma/poppa thing. Great marinated meats, fabulous soups,
scrumptious empanadas, perfectly grilled vegetables and, sometimes, the
unique and wonderful grilled cheeses of Argentina. Do not go if you are
allergic to garlic or if you get angry to see a very thin and trim owner/host
serving such foods.

Southern South Beach

Back down to the southernmost tip of the Beach there is La Piaggia Beach
Club. The best lunch in all of Florida—even if you could get in to Prime One
Twelve for the latter’s very excellent BLT, Kobe Hot Dog or sliders, Piaggia’s
sliders and burgers are almost as good, and their anchovies (in a spicy red
sauce) and their pastas, served al fresco with a fine rosé, right on the sand
under lovely awnings and/or umbrellas, is just about impossible to beat.
Alas, it is only open for lunches, and leisurely ones at that.

On the subject of lunch, just up the street from La Piaggia Beach Club is the
world famous Joe’s Stone Crab. Almost too much has been written about
this eatery and its ambience, but if you haven’t lunched there, give it a try.
It is the only meal of the day when they will serve you an Armand’s salad
(Joe’s custom version of a Caesar) since, apparently, the meal-sized dish is too
much trouble to make at their very busy (often a two hour wait) dinner hour.

If you are still in the neighbourhood and want a light dinner, I am one of
those who believe Nemo’s to be the consistently best restaurant on the
Beach. No one makes a finer presentation of Tuna Tartar or a nicer Caesar
Salad. If you ate lunch at La Piaggia Beach Club that should be just about
all you can handle for dinner, but if you crave more (bless you, child) the
chef’s version of Chilean sea bass is the best you will have anywhere and
the pan roasted chicken is nearly a poem. Oh yes. Nemo’s is owned by
Myles Chefetz, the same guy who owns Prime One Twelve, so if you
behave yourself, who knows? You may be able to get a reservation at
his other restaurant.

On the River

Moving off the beach, Garcia’s Seafood Grille & Fish Market on the Miami
River, has the best and biggest and freshest Stone Crabs anywhere and their
freshly grilled fish (which were swimming earlier that morning) served with
sweet plantains and rice is only topped by the café Cubano and Key Lime
pie at meal’s end. If you cannot decipher directions on how to get to this
fish market/eatery and their limited dock space is filled, try Casablanca
next door, but only on the weekends, for that is the only time they make
their paella. Better yet, turn your boat around, go back toward Biscayne Bay
and, just before you reach the mouth of the river, on your starboard side is
The Big Fish. Good bar, wonderful grilled calamari and a pasta with black
truffles that rivals the view of this al fresco restaurant.

Miami’s a neighbourhood kinda place. So, with a nod toward Randy Newman,
put on your shorty shorts and come on down.

18 DINE 2008

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and Priceless Items
Auction From architecture

An afternoon garden party in spring was to ice wine BY TONY ASPLER
the introduction to a three-day charity
blow-out attended by about 1,000 wine Twenty years ago, the Niagara region was a sleepy, pastoral
and food buffs who paid $1,000 each to landscape of peach and cherry orchards invigorated only on
sip, taste, walk the red carpet and be weekends by tourists on their way to marvel at the Falls or catch
entertained by Jann Arden, the Pointer a show at the Shaw Theatre Festival. Today the Niagara Peninsula
Sisters and the Temptations. is a magnet for wine lovers, foodies and students of contemporary
architecture. The wineries are booming and the buzzword is
Modelled after the highly successful Napa agri-tourism. I have been tracking the Ontario wine industry for
event that is in its 29th year, the focal point 30 years and I have never seen so much excitement and
here was a Barrel Auction. On auction was confidence among its winemakers. The 2007 vintage, now
a pro golf experience with Mike Weir, coming on stream, I predict will be the best ever for the region.
which would allow the top bidder to travel
to Ohio and join Weir at the 2009 PGA What started as a cottage pursuit in barns and tool sheds has
Memorial Tournament as his personal blossomed into a flourishing international wine industry that
caddy. Another popular item was “Up encompasses over 106 VQA wineries and struts its stuff in
Close and Personal with Dan Aykroyd.” buildings that could grace the cover of Architectural Digest.
A group will attend the grand opening of So successful have Ontario VQA wines become that they have
House of Blues in Houston to see Aykroyd attracted the attention of entrepreneurs who made their fortunes
and Jim Belushi in a performance of the in industry and commerce and are now investing in showplace
Blues Brothers Classic Review and dine facilities that make Niagara look like Napa North. Drive down
at the Foundation Room. Back home, Highway 55, the gateway to Niagara, and you’ll see a 205-meter
Aykroyd will be celebrity chef for the day, wall painted periwinkle blue. You’ve arrived at the newest Ontario
host an all-inclusive dinner at EastDell winery, Southbrook Vineyards. Jack Diamond, the architect of
Estates, and they will receive a selection Toronto’s opera house, designed the all-glass building behind
of Aykroyd’s Signature Reserve bottles. the eye-catching wall. This visually stunning property is just the
beginning of a series of extraordinary winery structures. Don’t
Vincor Canada, Official Sponsor of the miss Tawse, Stratus, Jackson-Triggs, Fielding and Flat Rock
2010 Olympic and Paralympic Games, Cellars if you’re a fan of modern architecture. For sheer traditional
offered four days in Vancouver to receive grandeur, add Château des Charmes, Peller Estates and
VIP treatment, a case of Delaine Vineyard Peninsula Ridge to your itinerary.
Cabernet Merlot and a case of Inniskillin
Riesling Icewine. And not only successful businessmen have been drawn to
opening wineries. A-list Canadian celebrities such as
Sponsored by The Wine Council of Ontario actor-comedian Dan Aykroyd, golfer Mike Weir and hockey
in partnership with DundeeWealth, this super-star Wayne Gretzky all have their own wine labels. You
second annual event, which was founded might not find them on site at the wineries that bear their names
in 2007 by John Peller, President and but their endorsement of Niagara wines has added lustre to the
CEO Andrew Peller Ltd., is dedicated to growing reputation of Ontario wines.
supporting SickKids Foundation and the
St. Catherine’s General Hospital At this year’s Ontario Wine Awards, Jackson-Triggs and Inniskillin
Foundation. –SW walked off with eight medals between them but top honours went
to Dan Aykroyd, who took ‘Wine of the Year’ for his Vidal Icewine
20 DINE 2008 2005; Mike Weir won the award for the best blended red with his
Cabernet Shiraz 2005 and Wayne Gretzky’s Unoaked Chardonnay
2006 has been flying off LCBO shelves.

The sudden explosion of wineries in Niagara has created a
demand for fine restaurants and inns that specialize in local
ingredients. Visitors with gourmet tastes are well served by such
destination dining experiences as Tony de Luca at the Oban Inn,
The Stone Road Grille and Treadwell’s, in addition to top
restaurants at the wineries themselves—notably, Hillebrand
Estates, Peller Estates and Vineland Estates. You can also hone
your cooking skills at the Wine Country Cooking School at
Strewn Winery or The Good Earth Cooking School.

While most visitors prefer the summer and fall seasons to tour
wine country, winter has its own appeal. Grapes for Icewine are
harvested in December or January after a prolonged cold snap of
-8° Celsius and if you don’t want to volunteer as a picker, you can
always enjoy the finished product at the annual Niagara Icewine
Festival in January-February.



The Vegas Experience!

BY ROBIN LEACH

Courtesy Michael Mina, Bellagio

“Champagne Wishes and Caviar Dreams”

are always true when they involve fabulous food and wondrous wines in the new Las Vegas,
which has become the world’s new #1 dining destination. Now it’s getting even more elaborate
and expensive because the star chefs have turned the Vegas dining scene into a literal
“theatre and nightclub experience.”

Not enough that the Yellow Pages listing under restaurants looks like the secret phone

directory at the Food Network! Everybody from Wolfgang Puck to Guy Savoy, Joël Robuchon,

Thomas Keller, Charlie Palmer, Michael Mina and Emeril Lagasse have extraordinary

palaces of pleasure in this desert dining kingdom. >>>

22 DINE 2008









L E F T: L E S L I E S M I T H V P D E S I G N E R S E RV I C E S , PA RT N E R C E N T E R : J AY M A N DA R I N O P R E S I D E N T & F O U N D E R , S E N I O R PA RT N E R R I G H T: G E O R G E H UR L E Y V P & C E O, S E N I O R PA RT N E R When we were growing up,
we all wanted to print for the

best hotels and restaurants
in the world.

oh . . . and by the way, we do!

(and Dine Magazine too)

134 Park Lawn Road
Toronto, Canada M8Y 3H9

416.588.0808
www.cjgraphics.com
C.J. Graphics Inc. continues to surpass our industry's environmental standards

©

LOS ANGELES, Lee Pettet
then AND now

BY GEORGE CHRISTY

The more things change, the more they stay the same,
as a wily Frenchman once assessed: le plus ça change,
le plus a la même chose...

Four decades ago, when I relocated to Los Angeles from New York as a roving editor for Town & Country magazine, the
dining-out scene, which I reviewed in my book, The Los Angeles Underground Gourmet, consisted primarily of “turf and
surf” (beef and lobster tail) in the “slanguage” of the 1970s. Chuck’s Steak House, the Pacific Dining Car dating back
to the early ’20s and still wonderful, that now-gone, celebrity haven Chasen’s, where Gregory Peck, Jimmy Stewart,
Cary Grant and Alfred Hitchcock dined on steak Diane fired tableside. All the same, ferreting out those offbeat
joints—Italian, French, Chinese, or a deli—for my book, required patience and diligence, due to the vast geographical
stretch of Los Angeles, described by witty Dorothy Parker as “90 suburbs in search of a city.” Some spots were decent,
some awful, others fair-to-middling, but, in truth, Los Angeles was a pioneer town, without the culinary savoir faire of
the current fine dining rooms or the cultural expanse of our latter-day museums, internationally acclaimed opera,
concerts and theatre.

Early on, the Ivy and the Ivy at the Shore blossomed with menus featuring American dishes such as their signature
crab cakes, Ricky’s fried chicken and the Anadama bread, created and overseen by perfectionists Richard Irving and
Lynn von Kersting, a celebrity favourite from day one. Plump crab cakes and American dishes, such as chicken potpie,
may be found on the menu at the Grill on the Alley in Beverly Hills. Michael McCarty opened Michael’s with
contemporary art and a serene garden for dining in Santa Monica (he also owns the Michael’s in Manhattan, the
luncheon favourite for NYC power players).

During the ’80s, Wolfgang Puck launched his infamous Spago, christened by Oscar-winning composer Giorgio
Moroder—spago, meaning string in Italian (who knows why, maybe during a boozy moment?). Wolfgang and his
then-spouse Barbara Lazaroff transformed a forlorn Armenian restaurant, Kazkaz, above Sunset Boulevard, into a
gourmet stomping ground, with Wolfgang’s emphasis on only fresh vegetables from Chino Farms, free-range veal
and chicken and grass-fed beef.

Afterward, they opened Chinois in Santa Monica, with a menu unlike any other Asian eatery: the most flavourful
Chinese chicken salad, and chunks of Maine lobster with ginger risotto. Wolfgang became a global emperor with touted
restaurants across the U.S., yet the quality at his now-relocated Spago in the heart of Beverly Hills remains top-notch,
the favourite of CTV’s Ivan Fecan and Sandra Faire, Susanne and Brendan Boyce, and also of Terrie and George Eaton.
Not to be missed are pastry chef Sherry Yard's desserts, from her lemon soufflé to those chocolate epiphanies.

>>>

28 DINE 2008

Wolfgang Things have their way of coming ’round, and the carnivore’s headed for a comeback. Ruth’s Photography: Courtesy Spago (Puck, Yard); Roger Karnbad (Corfu); Norman Karl Barron (Baldi)
Puck Chris Steak House in Beverly Hills took off, and Wolfgang lately opened CUT, his high-end
steakery, in the Regent Beverly Wilshire Hotel. Designed by Richard Meier, Cut is a blockbuster
Tony success, with its offerings of Kobe and Waygu beef, albeit with prices not for Scrooge-tight
Corfu pocketbooks, but for wooing Tom Cruise and the Hollywood crowd with its braised Kobe beef
cooked for eight hours en cocotte. And flocks of Pretty Young Things gather at CUT's Sidebar
Edoardo Lounge for its custom cocktails.
Baldi
Laurent Tourondel, another emperor in the dining community with his BLT Steak restaurants,
Sherry redesigned the fatigued Le Dome on Sunset Boulevard into a smashing success from its
Yard opening week. From the excellent braised short ribs to whatever side of beef your palate
desires, BLT Steak treats guests to a humungous popover like no other. New Yorker
carpetbagger chef Tom Colicchio opened Craft in Century City recently, the dining room
is huge, with the expensive cuisine and service disappointing.

For what seems like forever, Dan Tana’s in that yellow clapboard shack in West Hollywood, with
its red-checked tablecloths and kitschy atmosphere, has served what many praise as the best
steak in town, invariably juicy and remarkably tender. Only Dan, a teenage Yugoslavian soccer
player and actor, knows the secret of his Kansas City steaks that he swears are “not profitable.”
The always-jammed bar has been manned for 40 years by Michael Gotovac, pouring the
sturdiest drinks and, unusual for Los Angeles, the kitchen takes orders until half-past midnight.

For those craving a Kosher beef hot dog imported from New York (as is the special mustard),
Marty D’s in Beverly Hills is the hangout, with its Cape Cod décor designed by Sandy Davidson,
opened earlier this year with a vintage soda fountain that Marty Davidson, a former producer,
found on eBay. “If it ain't eight inches, it ain't Marty D’s,” says Davidson about his frankfurter.
Horseradish cole slaw, Boston baked beans, Cajun corn on the cob and ice cream sundaes are
on the menu of this favourite “hotdogerie” that attracts loyalists from the nearby talent agencies
and youngsters celebrating birthdays. Nate ’n Al’s, since 1945, remains the local legendary deli
for such as CNN’s Larry King with its brisket, pastrami and matzoh brie offerings.

Enough about the beef comeback. For an Italian table, Edoardo Baldi, 32, trained abroad,
cooked at his dad’s wildly popular Il Ristorante di Giorgio Baldi in Santa Monica, where Steven
Spielberg and family, Nicole Kidman, Tom Hanks and Danny DeVito are regulars. Several years
ago, Edoardo opened his intimate E. Baldi Pizzeria, Trattoria, Wine Bar in Beverly Hills, with an
excellent menu not unlike big daddy Giorgio’s. Branzino and langoustines flown in from the
Mediterranean are popular with the Cameron Diaz/Lindsay Lohan/Madonna diners, who like
the thin-crust pizzas and al dente pastas. Edoardo’s papapomodoro is a delicious soup, and
the veal Milanese is among his specialties.

Sushi is everywhere, and connoisseurs with big pockets head to the miniscule and minimalist
Nishimura in West Hollywood for chef Hiro Nishimura’s sashimi and sushi and succulent toro.
Only a handful of tables, a small counter and high prices for the much-appreciated quality.
Michael Jewison, the son of director-producer Norman Jewison, agrees that the good sushi for
fair prices is along Sawtelle Boulevard in West Los Angeles. Nor should the ramen noodle
broths be overlooked. Matsuhisa’s relocated to a larger venue and, while the likeable Nobu
Matsuhisa is hailed here and abroad with his myriad eateries, I find his Japanese cuisine
underwhelming and overpriced. Katsuya has the trendy following, but as man-about-town Yuki
Takei explains, “This is American-style Japanese food, California roll and spicy tuna, seasoned
with chili peppers and mayonnaise.” I should add that Mr. Chow’s in Beverly Hills remains a
tough reservation, even with its menus without prices, which are hefty—all the same, a hot spot
for the stay-up-late rich rappers.

For a weekend patio luncheon or an evening meal featuring splendid Greek dishes, Taverna
Tony in Malibu is where it’s at. Owner Tony Corfu prepares roast baby lamb “kleftiko” (bandit
style) that’s out of this world. Mitzi Gaynor, a fine cook, vows she’s “never had better.” You won't
go wrong with those tasty Greek dips, from taramosalata (a caviar whip) to hummus, tzaziki
(yogurt with cucumber) to tabouleh. Or the avgolemono soup, the calamari, moussaka,
pastitchio, the grilled striped bass dressed with herbs, olive oil and lemon, the cold-water
lobster from South Africa (more costly than Maine lobster), and the honey-laced sweets.
Taverna Tony is a must-stop-by for Roots owners Denyse and Don Green and family when
they’re in town. Count on live bouzouki and guitar music nightly, bellydancing on weekends,
amid a good-time party spirit bound to chase away the day’s doldrums.

Good eating abounds hither and yon in our City of the Angels, with locals and visitors satisfying
hungry and particular appetites. My hunch is that you’re not likely to be disappointed.

DINE 2008 29

New York State of Dine

Inquiring diners want to As students of restaurants around the world for more than Jeff Greenberg
know: What’s hot in 30 years, we can safely say that not a year goes by when
New York right now? the New York dining scene doesn’t surprise us with its
Blockbuster celebrity variety, inventiveness, quality, value and adaptability.
chef venues or intimate
neighbourhood places? Another constant is the passion of New York diners.
Small tasting plates or Those who take part in our surveys are arguably the most
heaping platters of knowledgeable, opinionated, fussy (and funny) food lovers
comfort food? Asian on earth. Overall, we learn more from them about what
fusion or classic Italian? really matters about dining out than from the many food
and dining experts we know.
The answer is “yes”—
all of the above and So herewith, some observations, based on the opinions of
more—much more, say tens of thousands of Zagat surveyors, about what’s big in
Tim and Nina Zagat the Big Apple right now.

30 DINE 2008 Locavores: The movement toward buying and eating food
that is organic, sustainably raised or grown close to home
has taken deep root here. Stalwarts like Danny Meyer’s
Union Square Café and Dan Barber’s Blue Hill, as well as
newcomers like BLT Market and Borough Food & Drink,
feature locally-raised produce and meats and build their
menus around fresh finds from the greenmarket. This trend
is driven partly by chefs who want only the best flavours for
their cooking and partly by diner demand. In our latest New
York City Restaurants survey, 52 percent of respondents
said they actually were willing “to pay more” for food that is
sustainably raised and 50 percent said the same for organic
food. Whatever the reason, this is a welcome and flavourful
addition to the New York menu.

>>>

Small – The Next Big Thing? Over the last few years, New Yorkers Photography (top to bottom): Quentin Bacon; Thomas Schauer; Jeff Greenberg; Jordan Gary; Edward Pond
experienced something new: the restaurant equivalent of the big-budget
movie, with the arrival of theatrical, mega-restaurants like Mario Batali’s
Del Posto, Tom Colicchio’s Craftsteak and the Asian powerhouses Buddakan
and Morimoto. These mega-spots seat up to 500 diners—with lighting and
ambience fit for a Broadway show. This year, the trend reversed toward
smaller, more intimate neighbourhood restaurants like Cafe Cluny, Insieme,
Klee Brasserie and the must-be-seen-at Waverly Inn, piloted by Vanity Fair
editor Graydon Carter. With the recent downturn in the U.S. economy, our
guess is that the small trend will continue because of the higher start-up
costs and risk that super-sized restaurants must take on. For now, New
Yorkers are happy to have the choice of both.

The Price is Right: No doubt about it, New York is an expensive town—the
prices of hotel rooms, theatre tickets and taxi rides have shot up of late.
Dining scene shellshock ensued after Thomas Keller’s Per Se started
charging more than $200 per person and its Time Warner Center neighbour,
MASA, broke that record by billing as much as $400 per meal to pay for its
daily imports from Japan. But when you actually look at the numbers,
dining out is one of New York’s most affordable pleasures. In our latest
survey, we found 697 restaurants that serve a good dinner for less than $30.
Family-style, “all-you-can-eat,” and prix fixe lunch and dinner menus (some
even at top food venues) allow diners to sample the city’s finest fare at
modest prices. Some of our pioneering restaurant mavens are even running
in-the-public-park food kiosks that offer terrific sandwiches (Colicchio’s
‘wichcraft) or burgers. Meyer’s Shake Shack even has a webcam showing
how many people are waiting online, and is so popular that it stayed open
for the first time this winter with the addition of pick-up service and heat
lamps. From the perspective of Euro-carrying foreigners and parity-paying
Canadians, NYC’s dollar-designated prices are downright bargains.

The Missing Link: For all that we love about New York restaurants, there
is one thing about them that we feel is lacking, and that’s great service.
We’re not alone: 50 percent of our New York surveyors cite service as the
most irritating part of the dining experience. We get comparable responses
in other cities throughout the country. Why should this be? We think it’s
because professional training for front-of-the-house jobs lags far behind
the strides we’ve seen in chef education. It’s time to let the industry know
an upgrade in service is long overdue.

New York’s greatest strength—without a doubt—lies in the sheer diversity it
offers both locals and tourists. In a city that is represented by almost every
nationality in the world, it’s no coincidence that the inspiration for the best
of the city’s newest restaurants hail from all over the world.

Take for instance this year’s short list of newcomers:

Anthos – Greece Los Dados – Mexico
Accademia de Vino – Italy Mai House – Vietnam
Café Cluny – France Mercat – Spain
15 East – Japan Pera – Turkey
Gordon Ramsay – UK Resto – Belgium
Hill Country – Texas BBQ Socialista – Cuba
Kefi – Greece

Coming to Your Town! We hope you’ll visit New York soon to get a taste of
our culinary culture. But if you can’t—try Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Tokyo,
Beijing or Atlantic City. More and more, some of our best chefs (Bobby
Flay, Mario Batali, Daniel Boulud, Charlie Palmer, the aforementioned
Colicchio and others) are opening great restaurants in places outside our
five boroughs. The same way that New York has been the standard-setter
for theatre, art museums, business and many other things in life, the city
is exporting its food culture, thereby helping to raise the bar for what
constitutes a delicious, enjoyable night out around the world. That’s
good news for diners everywhere—and perhaps the best trend of all.

DINE 2008 31

Hawaiian Love Song Courtesy Maui Visitors Bureau www.visitmaui.com

the magic of MAUI BY SARA WAXMAN

Love is in the air...

It’s in the perfumed breezes that hint of tuberose, orchid and exotic island flowers. It is in the ocean that laps at the
shore, where the pristine sand is disturbed only by the occasional tracks of birds. It is in the breathtaking orange
and magenta sunset that sinks quickly into the sea to make way for a full moon that hangs above the tops of
towering palm trees. It is in the undersea world of brightly coloured fish and ancient coral reefs. It lives here, in
Maui, the Magic Island.
I came to Maui expecting a pleasant vacation, a respite from the snow, sleet and freezing rain of winter. The
magnificent Westin Maui Resort & Spa is set right on the ocean. At sunrise, while sipping my coffee on the balcony
of my room, I survey the view and plan my morning. To get to the beach, I will stroll through the resort’s tropical
gardens and the 87,000 ft. aquatic playground with five free-form pools, pause to admire the flamingos, stop at OnO,
the outdoor restaurant, for breakfast, and then, there it is. Azure-blue ocean and a pristine beach. I can walk for
miles and return to my beach lounge to gaze out to where sea and sky meet, sip a frosty drink and view the yachts
and sailboats that dot the skyline.
The hotel is abuzz with hula classes and lei instruction.
Enough activity, I figure, for a person bent on doing nothing. But the enthusiasm of the concierge staff is contagious
and I’m told that I could fill my days with the kind of sights and sounds geared to create a lifetime of memories.
If I wanted a break from lying on the beach, I could think about exploring the natural beauty of rainforests, waterfalls,
Hana and Kahakuloa Village. I could leave the Mai Tais behind and enjoy a helicopter ride through a bright blue
cloudless sky, go horseback riding, hiking, kayaking, or spend the night in the Haleakala Crater with a personal tour
and a private chef.
Whale watching is an intriguing sight. From mid-December through mid-August, Humpback whales enjoy these
warm waters for the same reason most tourists come to Maui, to escape their frigid climates.
On any perfect day in this paradise, nothing beats cruising around a tropical island on a luxurious boat, dining
on delectable food and drink. Cruise lines and boating operators offer every kind of sea excursion—short, long,
day, night, lively, quiet, public or private. Slip into something special and sail the night away with the island as
your backdrop.
This is about as romantic as it gets, according to the hotel’s Director of Romance. She helps plan weddings and is
creative in arranging for everything that can aid and abet affairs of the heart. Nothing embodies relaxation more than
time at the Heavenly Spa, in this hushed section of the Westin. The Island Lavender Body Butter Treatment and the
Helani Tropical Indulgence are two of the spa’s luxurious services that include Maui-grown lavender.

>>>

32 DINE 2008



Dinner at the Tropica restaurant, the Westin’s signature dining room, fulfills the romantic promise of a balmy Maui night. Courtesy of Lahaina Grill (2), Maui Visitors Bureau www.visitmaui.com
Contemporary island cuisine combines the freshest and most flavourful fish in the world with the finest local produce from
upcountry. It is sunset and lights begin to twinkle on the yachts in the distance. The lush ambience created by flickering
torches and perfumed breezes leads us to anticipate dishes of exquisite and unusual flavours. There is Tropica’s famous
lobster chowder, piqued with Tabasco butter and smoked bacon; Pacific bouillabaisse, a largesse of lobster, local fish,
scallops, shrimp and other sea treasures. Desserts impress even this jaded foodie. A trio of crème-brûlée: lavender, passion
fruit and chocolate. A chocolate cappuccino, multi-layers of dark chocolate and Kona coffee-infused custard, is a fantasy
on another level.

Patience is not one of my virtues, but if it’s yours, you can go fishing, even while standing on the shore. Or take a day
excursion and be prepared to catch the likes of mahi-mahi, marlin, tuna and wahoo. And bring your camera. Described as a
golf nirvana, The Kapalua Resort, just a half hour drive from the Westin, is home to two of the finest golf courses in Hawaii.
Set against the lush tropical background of the island, you can retrace the steps of the world’s best golfers by playing a
round on The Plantation, the perennial host of the PGA Tour’s season opening Mercedes-Benz Championship and The Bay
Course, which will welcome the LPGA in October 2008 for the Kapalua LPGA Classic.

Man cannot live by golf alone, and one of the island’s best restaurants, Pineapple Grill, is right on the property. Modern
pacific island cuisine influenced by Hawaiian, Thai, Tahitian, Filipino and the traditional cultural dishes of other islands are
much in evidence in this exotic, fascinating menu. To a Torontonian, locally caught fish like monchong, a flat round fish that
swims vertically; ono, a predator fish prepared with crushed candied peanuts; and pistachio-wasabi crusted rare tuna with
the texture of silk, are unusual dishes indeed. If there exists any stress in this articulate kitchen, it does not make its way into
the dining room. One can relax and over-indulge in a dessert of Maui gold pineapple upside down cake with macadamia nut
ice cream and toasted coconut. If there is magic in Maui, it is certainly enhanced by its cuisine.

While days can be filled with outdoor adventure, the ultimate nighttime drama is
Wailele, the Polynesian Luau, a multi-course feast with traditional dishes. As the
sun sets, torches are lit, the drumbeats begin, and vibrant dancers perform
fire-knife vignettes and ancient dances depicting the basics of life - love and war.

The dining out scene in Maui is special, exciting yet at the same time, very laid back. For 15 years, The Lahaina Grill
has received a parade of awards, including Maui’s Best Restaurant. Innovative new American cuisine uses the freshest
ingredients from local farms and dairies. It embodies the spirit of aloha by delivering impeccable food and service within
a casual bistro setting. From the sea, three petite lobster, shrimp and ahi cakes and crispy Shanghai spring rolls.
Mahi-mahi is sautéed with Gorgonzola and pancetta. And from the land, Kona coffee roasted rack of lamb and Snake River
Farms Kobe steak.

A signature sampler of desserts that include Hawaiian vintage chocolate cake; chocolate sour cream mousse and
macadamia nut caramel, and Oreo-crusted Kona coffee ice cream pie. This last dinner of my vacation sends me on my
way to the airport fulfilled by the luscious cuisine of this special island.

Air Canada Executive First Suite fully reclines into a lie-flat bed and delivers its promise of a good night’s sleep. A comfy
pillow and duvet along with all the latest-in-flight amenities lets me arrive home completely refreshed—the perfect ending
to a perfect vacation.

34 DINE 2008

















Courtesy DJT restaurant, Trump International Hotel and Tower CONTEMPORARY

Colborne Lane
Cowbell
Flow / Capitol
Globe Bistro
Marben
True

DINE 2008 43



1564 Queen Street West, Toronto, Ontario M6R 1A6
(416) 849-1095 • www.cowbellrestaurant.ca

SARA SAYS...

“Farmer’s Nights at Cowbell give people a chance to connect with their food and the people who raise it,” says chef/co-owner Mark Cutrara.
On these nights, he presents food from a single farm and pairs it with wine from a single Ontario winery. Generally, his menu philosophy is
“nose to tail,” and “farm to table.” He focuses on the ingredients and finds it gratifying that his customers dine and leave happy. Along with
partner Karin Culliton, in the course of an evening, they offer 90 percent Ontario produce, organic and pure.
A carnivorous clientele fills the long, lean room, sitting at varnished heavy wood tables, comfortable on old church pews upholstered in red flocking.
The blackboard menu changes almost daily, sometimes hourly. They go through the menu like a summer tornado—the charcuterie platter with
house made and cured meats like prosciutto, elk salami, Berkshire pork belly and assorted sausages. The burger comes with aged cheddar,
foil wrapped so as not to lose precious juices; beef tartare with frites has its followers. And the unique red deer tenderloin with stewed beans
and fennel is a signature dish.
What is Ontario cuisine? It is to be found here and devoured.
SW

DINE 2008 45





SARA SAYS...

This is an open, three-story space that glows in tones of gold and cream reflecting light from distinctive chandeliers and wall treatments. Ed Ho
presides as the proud patron. His expression of artistic sensibilities is also created in conjunction with his chef. One would never call the Globe a
trendy restaurant. Yet, when the trend is to the artisanal, regional and organic, he is a leader in the field of locavores. The kitchen offers stripped
down and seasonal dishes, with the focus not on flowery recipes but on beautiful ingredients, kissing the hand of Mother Nature in many ways.
The tasting menu is a gourmet’s dream, based on what the farmers have brought to the kitchen door. Heirloom tomatoes and sheep’s milk cheese;
organic spinach and ermite blue snow cheese. In the kitchen, they shell fresh peas, make pasta, slice slabs of Berkshire Pork, crack crab legs for
signature crab salad. Showcasing the finest ingredients Canada has to offer, dinner begins with an amuse of a single escargot and wild ramps in
a china spoon. Steak frites comes on a huge wood slab; sweetbreads are treated with a delicate hand and they slow-cook short rib and rib eye
stew with beef from Cumbrae Farms; rack of lamb comes with wild blueberry flan. Duck from Quebec is tea-smoked and partnered with foie gras
and potato pavé. The main floor dining room is inviting, with alabaster covered candles giving each table a pleasing glow. The mezzanine gives
one the privacy of booths, while the third floor is the private party room. Take one flight up and emerge into summer’s most inviting roof top patio.
The essential point and signature pleasure at the Globe is its purity of products and the contributions of a dedicated team.
SW

48 DINE 2008