DINE 2008-09

488 Wellington St. West, Toronto, Ontario m5v 1e3

416.979.1990 [email protected] www.marbenrestaurant.com
Private Dining Room for up to 50 guests. Special Events for up to 200 guests

SARA SAYS...

On a tree-lined avenue, which was, until a few years ago, rather anonymous, a restaurant of subtle sophistication has appeared on the scene.
Smooth and sleek, in a glossy contemporary way, it has found its clientele among the downtown condo dwellers and the neighbourhood.
They dote on dishes like lemon garlic grilled lamb chops with fingerling potato hash and Greek salad; seared black cod with charred corn grits
and grilled avocado.

Cozy nooks, backlit alabaster bars that give the room a warm glow, an open kitchen that invites scrutiny and a chef who is right up on the tastes
of his clientele, Marben has become a restaurant of choice for private parties.

Today’s jaded palates hunger for bright crisp flavours and grazing through the menu is an exhilarating trip. Plates are often meant for sharing
and the flavour quotient is high enough for the fussiest eater. A succinct appetizer menu showcases the imagination of the chef: grilled asparagus
with shaved Asiago, Pancetta and barbecued onions; rainbow beets with goat cheese and pumpkin seeds. What they do well, they do superbly.
Main courses are palate pleasers and flavour combinations using globally sourced ingredients ignite the imagination.

Sentimentally named after the owner’s mom and dad, it is one of the city’s cool and hot dining spots.
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DINE 2008 49

call 416.925.8783 for reser vations | 69 yorkville avenue, toronto M5R 1B8 | w w w.truerestaurant.ca

we strive to serve fresh, local and organic ingredients whenever possible.

creative: ARTiculation Group, Toronto

SARA SAYS...

Organic to the core, this kitchen is a testament to the strongly held belief of the young proprietors Amy Chow and Jackson Cheung that eating
fresh, local, organic food is a way to a pure, natural and healthy lifestyle. Even the chaste décor in this vast, sparkling space speaks of a clean
and untainted environment. White leather booths can accommodate six comfortably, white chairs and tables, and spare, pretty accessories add to
the appeal. Servers are well rehearsed and know the drill. When asked, they will say that the tap water goes through two filtration systems before
it’s brought to the table. Begin with a martini made with organic vodka or gin and a whistle of organic juice. Freshly squeezed juices like apple,
orange and carrot, and other power combos are mood enhancers on their own. In summer, one can sit on the outside patio and watch the
construction on Yorkville while indulging in apple, pear and walnut salad with arugula; a Caesar salad topped with chicken, goat or blue cheese,
or one of the seven pizzas, secure in the knowledge that every ingredient that passes your lips is organic. Fact is, organic food is free from all
those pesky pesticides, herbicides, growth hormones, antibiotics and genetically modified components. In plain-speak, it tastes good. A whole fish
of the day, a two lb. grouper, for example, is grilled with olive oil and herbs and brought glistening to the table; capellini with veal and caramelized
onion sings with flavour; rack of lamb is brilliant with Pommery mustard and red wine sauce. The kitchen bakes a terrific chocolate cake, which is
my choice to have with my coffee. And, did I mention that it’s all organic? A wonderful addition to the village of Yorkville, it’s tried and true.
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50 DINE 2008

ITALIAN

RISTORANTE BISTRO

Bravi Ristorante Noce Dimmi
Centro Oro Kit Kat Bar and Grill
Coppi Ristorante Paese Ristorante Toni Bulloni
Il Mulino Sotto Sotto (inside front cover)
Joso’s Vaticano

Edward Pond

DINE 2008 51

SARA SAYS...

Who ever thought that a freight elevator could be a romantic dining hideaway? Leave it to Sam Genkov, owner of Bravi, to make the most of
charming design elements and create a comfortable Euro-style restaurant. Then, dinner served at a candle-lit table for two, you're whisked up
to your own private environment. The elevator is yours for the evening. “More engagements happen in the elevator than I can count” says Sam,
and explains that the walls are totally covered with names of romantic couples.

In the dining room with the warmth of natural brick walls and a claret-coloured ceiling, others indulge in the fine cuisine of the owner/chef.
While the menu sticks to the classics, there are Sam’s delicious surprises, of bringing unexpected ingredients into smart play. Like conchiglioni, the
extra large pasta shells filled with goat cheese leeks and mushrooms; a small middle course of pan-seared diver scallops with saffron white wine
risotto, smoked Pancetta and asparagus. Starting with the finest beef, he grills tenderloin and places it on a Portobello mushroom, then surrounds
it with sweet cipollini onion and Barolo jus.

Downstairs, a candle-lit wine cellar is another romantic hideaway. Sam has chosen his wines carefully and loves to share food and wine lore
with diners. European style dining at its best—where every course is a highlight.
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52 DINE 2008

SARA SAYS...

The stone façade has huge picture windows that invite passersby to peer inside and admire a handsome, glamorous 22-foot high room. Dark
wood, columns draped with cappuccino-coloured suede, banquettes that offer relaxed dining and elegant white piqué cotton napery. It’s the kind
of room that makes you glad you dressed. Co-owner Armando Mano strolls the restaurant, stopping to chat at tables, decanting wine, making
everyone feel like a regular. His enthusiasm spills over to his corps of servers—one recently named best in the city. A compilation of dishes
distilled from the cuisines of our population—we are, after all, a country of immigrants—continues to evolve. It’s just a hop, skip and jump on
the menu from pan-seared foie gras with toasted brioche and port glazed cherries to black tiger shrimp tempura with soy ginger dressing.

Chef and co-owner Bruce Wood’s Italian is now impeccable. His pasta triumvirate sings in voices clear and bright. Champagne risotto with shaved
summer truffles has bite and texture, potato gnocchi sets the standard for this classic; lobster ravioli with lemon and herbs is vibrant with flavour.
Succulent beef tenderloin cohabits nicely on the plate with heirloom tomato and warm artichoke salad, while a lovely filet of snowy halibut is
partnered with crisply sautéed rapini. The lower level jazz lounge is a casual spot that offers a smaller international menu including sushi.

Modern North American cuisine with a sophisticated Italian accent is what this is all about.
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DINE 2008 53

“Coppi succeeds because it gratifies
our desire for the right stuff, Italian

style, relatively inexpensive.”

Joanne Kates, The Globe and Mail

SIMPLICITY AND CONSISTENCY,
COPPI RISTORANTE PAVED ITS WAY

TO POPULARITY WITH THIS
SIMPLE FORMULA.

FOR SPECIAL EVENTS, OUR
PRIVATE DINING ROOM IS AN IDEAL
SETTING FOR A UNIQUE DINNER OR
CORPORATE FUNCTION. COPPI ALSO
PROVIDES CATERING WITH A WIDE

RANGE OF FORMAL OR CASUAL
MENU CHOICES.

3363 Yonge Street, Toronto

7 Blocks North of Lawrence (at Fairlawn)

416.484.4464 coppiristorante.com

SARA SAYS...

Where Fausto Di Berardino was born, in Abruzzi, Italy, the natural and simple methods of Abruzzese cuisine are the standard. This uncomplicated,
traditional way of preparing food has traveled well and the translation is complete. A man of passion about the things he loves, food, wine and
his namesake, Fausto Coppi, the undisputed king of cycling, Di Berardino’s fans rely on his good taste. They know that every October, he will
travel to Italy to buy white truffles and in spring to buy the aromatic black truffles. He will go through about seven kilos of truffles in a year. His
prosciutto and Parmigiano Reggiano are from Parma, and he offers bottarga or muggine (tuna or red mullet roe) and an array of fish from the
Adriatic Coast. “We have to cherish what nature gives us,” says Fausto. There is a lot of great dining going on within these midnight blue and
cream walls. Where else can we find fresh anchovies, marinated and served with arugula and pistachios? Beef carpaccio, named after the artist
who painted in red, has superb texture and comes capped with a swirl of shaved parmigiano. They make the fettuccine in house and sauce it
with luscious lamb ragout. Sea bream and red snapper are baked in salt crust and presented at table. With a surgeon's skill, Alessandro Scotto,
the manager and major domo, removes the crust, bones the fish and offers a splash of first press olive oil from Abruzzi. “Italian cuisine is
changing,” says Fausto, and even traditional restaurants want to present dishes in a unique way.” Chefs are becoming artists, designing
dishes to please the eye as well as the palate of the customer.” We are the beneficiaries of his love affair with uncompromised Italian cuisine.
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54 DINE 2008

good friends • good food • good wine • good service • good times

Il Mulino

1 0 6 0 e g l in ton av e n u e w e s t, tor on to • w w w. il m u l inor e s ta u r a n t. c o m • 4 1 6 . 7 8 0 . 1 1 6 3

SARA SAYS...

According to Michael and Margie Pagliaro, proprietors of Il Mulino, there is “never a dull moment.” The loyal clientele and their families have 55
become friends of the house. Family highs and lows are discussed, generations come and go, but there is a commonality. Everyone loves the
food. There is an internationalism that is adventurous and imaginative. No one has ever turned up their nose at the freshly made gnocchi, lush
with pancetta and tomatoes, or the creative array of seasonal vegetables presented as a gardenscape of nature’s bounty. Choosing from the
menu is not an easy task when there is silken octopus carpaccio, and a whole grilled fish, cleanly filleted in the kitchen or served au naturel.
Risotto with wild mushrooms and truffle oil leaves an aromatic trail as it’s brought to the table. The exuberant flavour of wild mushroom agnolotti
with succulent veal jus and walnut sauce is worthy of a three star chef in Italy. A mixed grill of meats or fish is as complex as they are fundamental.
Sophistication is found in simplicity. A sommelier of note recommends wines from Il Mulino’s expansive cellar that has been created specifically
to enhance the menu. The room itself is classic, with its arched ceiling, reminiscent of the ancient wine cellars in Italy, and the cool grey and
white colour scheme is punctuated by sculpted, black-leather chairs. Subdued lighting and crisp white linens add to a sense of casual elegance.
“It’s not work, it’s a pleasure” says Michael, of his day-to-day experiences. A rarity in this business, the well-practiced, original crew has been
with them for two decades—as long as the customers. The appreciative clientele who flock to this mid-town restaurant say, “Michael, if you
opened a restaurant in the middle of the lake, we'd swim out to eat there.”
SW DINE 2008

202 Davenport Road, Toronto, ON M5R 1J2 Telephone 416.925.1903

www.josos.com

SARA SAYS...

An urban legend and a truly unique man, Joso Spralja—painter, cook, musician and family man—has compacted all the joys of his life into a
gallery/restaurant. The world’s glitterati beat a path to his door. Mention Toronto to a showbiz personality or movie star in most major cities of the
world and they will say, “Ah, have you eaten at my friend Joso’s?” and tell you about their favourite dish. They recognize his unique talents while
they’re surrounded by his lusty objets d’art.
It’s not easy to tear your eyes away from the erotic art that fills the walls. But the “show and tell” tray of fresh fish and seafood that’s presented
by our server gets our attention. In minutes, the chosen finny creatures have been grilled and brought whole on the plate, Adriatic style.
But it’s not all about fish. Chef Leo Spralja has won international awards for Risotto Nero and Spaghettini alla Siciliana, brilliantly sauced with
black ink of cuttlefish.
Good food and wine and a special ambience keep everyone happy. The family, Elena, Leo and Shirley continue the tradition, and it’s a rare day
when Joso’s is a celebrity-free zone.
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56 DINE 2008

Fine Dining

Reservations

Call: 416 504-3463
Fax: 416 504-4798

Facilities

Three Dining rooms plus patio.

Private parties up to 150 Guests.

Location email: [email protected]
www.nocerestaurant.com
875 Queen Street, West.
Toronto, Ontario, M6J1G5

SARA SAYS...

The neighbourhood around Queen and Walnut has changed in the 15 years since owners Guido Saldini and partner Elena Morelli opened Noce,
but their culinary integrity has not. From the dark brown floors to the pale walls hung with magnificent floral paintings, from the natural linen
window shades and elegant wood wine cabinet to the private dining room, the understated restaurant glows with confidence. People who sit at
these tables know why they have come to dine here.

First, antipasti from Elena’s home town in Italy, olive ascolone—pitted green olives, stuffed with savoury nubbins, crusted and deep fried, and
croquettes of salt cod, are the size of walnuts (noce) and are simply not to be missed. Pasta dishes are heavenly: ravioli with mushrooms and
truffle, gnocchi with oxtail ragout, tagliolini with grilled shrimp. Made with “00” flour from Italy, pasta from this kitchen is not just a vehicle for
sauce. Transposing the best of Italian cuisine, they prepare veal Marsala with exotic mushrooms; osso buco alla Milanese is traditional with
aromatic gremolata and saffron risotto. They roast rack of lamb and serve it with ravioli stuffed with fresh peas. Branzino, a Mediterranean fish,
is pan roasted and dressed to the nines. The house dessert, chocolate salami, is a delicate, crunchy, melt in the mouth confection.
Be prepared to eat the whole thing and the whipped cream, too.
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DINE 2008 57

Nestled on downtown
Toronto’s charming
Elm Street, ORO
Restaurant is the
epitome of elegance
and culinary
sophistication
among the city’s
finest dining
experiences.

45 Elm Street
Toronto, ON M5G 1H1
T. 416.597.0155
www.ororestaurant.com

SARA SAYS...

Tarek Abushaka is a restaurateur of informal elegance, a near perfect grasp of manners, an educated palate and what could be considered a
PhD in restaurant experience gained over the past few decades while working for others. In one of life’s natural progressions, Tarek made the
decision to work for himself, spend his own money and reap his own rewards. His restaurant has an attractive architectural balance created
with glass walls and separate rooms. The chef has spent time playing with ingredients and has won the game. Salads, like white asparagus and
goat cheese gelato, tempt the imagination; porcini, leek and caramelized onion tartelette with woodland mushrooms is not to be missed.
Classic minestrone soup careens upward with the addition of crab and prawn. They offer four different fish on a daily basis. Our young waiter,
from Sicily, bones a fish with speed and skill as if he’s been doing it all his life, which, of course, he has. Veal osso buco that has been slow
roasted and falls from the bone is one on the plate with saffron orzo and chestnut gremolata. The new “surf and turf” here is honey-glazed pork
belly, sea scallops and king prawn with savoy cabbage, Vin Santo and a savoury citrus caramel. The wine cellar is impressive. An intelligent wine
recommendation is listed under each dish. No room for error in these marriages of food and wine. Tarek has a goal—he is driven to make Oro
the best restaurant possible.
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58 DINE 2008

3827 Bathurst Street
Toronto, Ontario

reservations: 416.631.6585
Complimentary Corkage BYOW Sunday-Friday

SARA SAYS...

Why bother driving downtown, people figure, when right in their own back yard, Tony Loschiavo has created a haven of comfort and good food.
Modern, with warm cherry-wood accents and taupe suede covering the wall of banquettes, this kind of sophisticated urban décor seems to be as
perfect a backdrop for casually dressed neighbours out for a walk as for black-tie patrons on their way home from a stylish party. In the front, booths
invite the casual diner for lunch and dinner. Evenings, the room changes its lighting and its personality, and here is where the kitchen shines.

While honouring Italy, the menu is refreshing and covers all the bases. Beet and goat cheese salad cloaked with handfuls of baby arugula is
special. Sharing a pizza fills the bill when we're hungry for something easy-going. Crisp, chewy, good-tasting, hand-rolled whole-wheat dough
is topped with any of a dozen choices of toppings. The chef gets serious with rack of lamb that arrives aromatic with rosemary and Dijon, or try
crispy Cornish hen prepared Tuscan style. Fish is cooked with a gentle hand and presented in a clever creative style.

Paese has a wine philosophy that rings a bell with most clients here: The best pairing advice is to enjoy the wine you like with the food you like.
Bravo.
SW

DINE 2008 59

FELICE’S LABOUR OF LOVE

Felice Vacca had a dream. He dreamed that one day he would be an actor and work at the renowned Cinecittà in Rome.
The black and white movies he watched at the local cinema that starred Mastroianni, De Sicca and Loren were his
obsession. At the age of nine, Sophia was Felice’s first love.

Like many children from a large Italian family, he was sent to live with his grandparents on their farm. They worked the land
for their sustenance and it was here that he learned the love of food. “When I went to the store,” he says, “it was only for
salt or sugar.”

Back in Rome as a teenager, he went straight to Cinecittà, scanned the boards that posted jobs for film “extras,” and got
work. And at the Opera House he worked as an “extra” in La Traviata, Nabucco and other great operas. It seemed that
showbiz was in his blood.

But first, Felice was always about family. And here, another love came into being. Mama worked as a chef in one of the big
hotels in Rome and Felice went to help. His older sister Antonella ran a small restaurant in Rome and he was there for her
also. “So,” he says, “I began to be in restaurants.”

And these are the signposts in the life of Felice Vacca: Family. Food. Film.

When Marissa, the sister with whom he was closest, opened Sotto Sotto in Toronto in 1992, she asked him to come and
help. “I came to Canada with one penny in my pocket and one suitcase,” he says, “and Marissa said, ‘take a cab, give them
the address and when you get here, I will pay the cab.’ ”

Felice walked into Sotto Sotto and put his luggage down. “Marissa gave me an apron, and I began working the
wood-burning pizza oven.” Soon, with his affable personality and engaging smile, he attracted a huge following from
international filmdom and was always eager to take a photo with the stars. A television cooking show was created:
Felice and Friends.

And these are the signposts in the life of Felice Vacca:
Family. Food. Film.

One day, he hired a new waitress, Monica, and life took a romantic turn. Love, marriage, a child—and, it was time to move on.

Vaticano was a labour of love and an overnight success. Felice retained the food philosophy learned at his grandparents’
farm. Ninety percent of everything served is made by hand in the kitchen. His affection for his customers is evident. “You
come here, you can have anything you want,” he proclaims. “No waiter needs to go back to the chef to ask if it’s possible,
the answer at the table is yes.” Felice does a large menu—the produce, fish and meats are all fresh, and everything is made
to order, “what ever way the customer likes, for whatever diet or taste they have.” Is there a secret to his success? “Don’t
try to cheat. Today everyone is well educated about food and wine. The minute you try to cheat the customers and serve
less than the best quality, you are out.”

Felice is a happy man. “This is my beautiful life in Canada,” he says. “I worked hard and I got even more back.” Today, he
and Monica have their own family of three boys, a large home in a fine midtown neighbourhood, a television show and a
successful restaurant.

One day, the fates tossed him a gift. Sophia Loren walked into Vaticano. Felice cooked for her and she posed for a
photograph with him, which hangs in a prime spot on the restaurant’s wall.

Hanging on the opposite wall, directly across from Sophia, is a new award, a recognition by his peers in the Ontario region:
the William Ashley Silver Service Award.

Yes, dreams do come true. Family. Food. Film.
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60 DINE 2008



SARA SAYS...

In Yorkville, the crossroads of the city, folks who like to watch summer’s passing parade stake out a claim on this front patio early in the day.
Also prime real estate is the side patio, the front room and the dining room, where large mirrors are hung at an angle that enable diners to catch
every nuance of the trendy scene. The food here is so swell, it is beyond being fashionable. The starters are the soulful comfort food we crave.
The youthful, hip crowd (of all ages) favour tasty duets of shared dishes like charbroiled or crisp calamari and a market garden of salads. If
you’re here for the first time, partners Leslie Chan and Raymond Commisso recommend their hot rolled Focaccia sandwiches knowing you’ll
be a lifetime fan. Sautéed Provimi veal with mushrooms, peppers and onions, or chicken breast, goat cheese and other goodies, are just a few
examples, and they’re big enough to share. The humongous calzone will have other diners calling their waiter over to order the same.

The key to the kingdom is the house-made fresh tomato sauce, the way mama made it. You’ll want to lick the plate. The sauce is what gives
spaghetti and meatballs a special kick; it’s the heavenly element in angel hair pasta to the point that it needs just a few leaves of fresh basil; and
it’s this rich sauce that really “makes” the selection of 16 pizzas. The list of this mixologist’s martinis will leave you breathless. This is where you
can take off your jacket and tie, if you’re wearing one, or slip your toes out of your stilettoes, kick back and relax.
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62 DINE 2008

SARA SAYS...

Show Biz loves Kit Kat, and photographs, memorabilia and theatre posters adorn the walls. This eclectic and eccentric eatery has natural drama.
It’s built around a massive tree, which grows in the middle of the open kitchen. Tree huggers are invited to indulge.

Owner Al Carbone and his brother John welcome everyone like long lost family. You can dine at window tables in the front, or on the cozy patio in
summer. Regulars like to perch at the long bar at the end of the day, or enjoy dinner in the privacy of old-fashioned wooden booths. It’s fun to
read all the names graffitti’d on the concrete wall. Portions are enormous; an antipasto platter for two is a meal, roast chicken is homey comfort
food, pastas are sauced with all your favourites. At the grill, the chef does fish and steaks to a turn.

Don’t be surprised to find yourself seated next to the stars you’ve just applauded on stage. The theatre district locale means that pre- and
post-curtain hours are busy. Popularity has caused the brothers to open Club Lucky (Kit Kat II) around the corner.

The same menu, yet a different kind of charm.
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DINE 2008 63

PASTA O FRESH FISH O VEAL O STEAKS O PIZZA

Trattoria Americana

156 Cumberland St. Toronto
416.967.7676

SARA SAYS...

Siva, the always-smiling major domo tends bar, takes orders, serves dinner, pours wine and can cook if required. Friends, lovers and other
strangers sit at the bar or up a few stairs at tables in the rear and enjoy their salads, fish or spaghetti and meatballs and feel as if they’re at a
house party. That’s the way Siva likes it.
The neighbourhood is aware that the blackboard outside, near the front door, lists the day’s oceanic offerings. Tonight, there is Chilean sea bass,
salmon, scallops, gamberi and snapper. While the huge Italian-style menu is peppered with jokes, puns and quotes, they are quite serious about
what comes out of the kitchen.
Sea bass has been scored with a sharp knife so that when it’s baked, it looks like two large chrysanthemums. And the grilled veal chop is as
credible as those served in our top steak houses. A generosity of grilled zucchini, luscious pimento, sautéed rapini and the day’s market fresh
veggies fill the plates. “You serve too much food, Siva,” is what I always end up saying, and he assures me that no one leaves hungry from his
domain. And, he says, “We still make the best Tiramisu in the city.”
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64 DINE 2008

Courtesy Joël Robuchon, MGM Grand Hotel EAST MEETS WEST

Monsoon
Nami
Spice Room & Chutney Bar
Spice Route

DINE 2008 65

SARA SAYS...

A fragrant eclectic consortium of trans-Asian cuisine is served in a unique dining and lounge environment. Winner of the James Beard Award for
outstanding restaurant design in North America, the black-brown colour scheme with splashes of bright hues makes for a serene yet dynamic
space. Creative lighting adds a laid-back sophistication. Begin your culinary trip through Southeast Asia with a dim sum platter for two, or a
breathtaking seasonal daily soup. Travel on to larger dishes like organic chicken supreme with azuki forbidden rice and goji berries. Organic
Vietnamese pork tenderloin has an unusual and delicious mirin and tamarind glaze. The kitchen outdoes itself with yuzu togarashi tuna and
offers it with cilantro corn dumplings and lemongrass consommé.

Educate your palate with a flight of sakes with names like Demon Slayer, Wondering Poet or Well of Wisdom, to match your trans-Pacific culinary
journey. Okonomiyaki is much more than just a Japanese shrimp pancake; it sings and dances with bonito flakes. The chef dresses up chicken
breast with black vinegar and chili; he slow braises veal short rib, serves it with Jasmine rice and caps it with handfuls of mint and cilantro salad;
he partners beef tenderloin with black bean gravy and stir fried lotus root. But it’s not all serious cuisine. A side dish that’s ordered by all is the
sweet yam fries with soy chili sambal. And if crispy soft shell crab is in season, just trust me and order it. Vegetarians have a field day with dishes like
silken tofu clouds, and wine buffs will appreciate the knowledge that Monsoon has been honoured with the Wine Spectator award of excellence.
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66 DINE 2008

55 Adelaide St. E., Toronto, ON M5C 1K6
T. 416.362.7373 F. 416.362.4745 E. [email protected]

SARA SAYS...

A microcosm of the varieties of Japanese cuisine co-exists happily in this large, attractive restaurant. 67

Kimonoed hostesses greet you with charming smiles and seat you for the cuisine of your choice. You can dine at tables or in wooden booths and
order from an extensive menu. Dinner combos include soup, salad, tempura, chicken yakitori or a beef or salmon teriyaki dish, rice and dessert.
New and exciting dishes tempt the palate. Begin with the unique Nami Roll wrapped with rice paper and tobiko, try spicy seafood Kakiage,
a scallop and shrimp tempura with teriyaki sauce, then go on to Beef Amiyaki, US Black Angus beef cut in cubes and sizzled on your own
hibachi grill.

At the sushi bar, there is a gleaming array of fresh fish and seafood. The sushi chefs work with skill and precision. There are very few robatta
bars (a cooking grill surrounded by an eating counter) hereabouts. And it’s fun to sit at the robatta bar, drink cold sake from a wooden box and
choose raw edibles to be grilled. Choose soft shell crab, skewers of scallops and shrimp, fish filets and seasonal vegetables and watch them
grilled in seconds. Groups enjoy the privacy of tatami rooms. Remove your shoes, Japanese style, and relax on cushions while your legs swing
in the wells under the tables. Sake is brought in an ice bucket, and each dish is presented on beautifully glazed Japanese pottery plates.
Authenticity is preserved, as the colour combinations of kimonos and sashes change with the seasons.
SW

DINE 2008

A

World
of Flavour

with

Greg
Couillard
a Canadian

Icon.

55 Avenue Rd, Lower Level Hazelton Lanes www.spiceroommanyata.com

416.935.0000

SARA SAYS...

When you’re globetrotting for flavours, you’ll have no better tour guide than chef Greg Couillard. A daredevil in the kitchen, he continues to
delight his many fans with legendary, exotic soups, meats and fish dishes. Partnered with Kenyan chef David Ng'ang'a, he is turning
Hazelton Lanes on its ear. Where else but in an haute-couture shopping mall would those with an adventurous palate seek out his vibrant
North African/French/Caribbean cuisine? Sweet, spicy, hot, cool, crunchy, crispy, soft, and mellow—he synthesizes all the high notes.

Perch at the pretty bar or relax in one of the deep leather chairs and sample small exotic dishes.

The dining room itself is a surprise. Tented ceiling, romantically lit, with luxurious comfort in seating, one quickly gets into the scheme of things.
Greg’s renowned Jump Up Soup is a must, as are Caravaggio carpaccio and Firebird tandoori shrimp. Main courses defy description and will
have you promising yourself a return visit soon. Zanzibar rubbed Berbere lamb and Maraboo slash and burn red snapper leave the taste buds
reeling and begging for more. The pastry chef spins pure gold—as in his confection called Chocolate Apocalypto.

Flavour embraces us and kisses us on both cheeks. It excites and stimulates our senses, but it does not stomp on us.
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68 DINE 2008

SARA SAYS...

This trip through South East Asia requires no passport, just an open mind that’s prepared to marvel at the sights, sounds and tastes in a
magnificent setting. It begins with the elements of fire and water, lining the entrance to heavy antique doors. Inside, there is a waterfall and
koi pond. Perch at the bar, look up and admire the floating fish above your head.

If the pressure of the day has gotten to you, enter another world. Kick back, admire the Asian antiques and modern décor, and order an exotic
spiked tea. The menu of many small dishes, generously designed for sharing, may be daunting. Let your server be your guide through the
sensual cuisines of South and East Asia.

Thinly sliced steak to be cooked by you on hot lava rocks is an adventure. The clay pot tiger prawns in Thai black bean sauce sings and
dances in your mouth; Kung Pao chicken is crunchy with peanuts, gets its heat from chili peppers. Vegetarians love the Thai vegetable curry
and yam shoestring fries, but there is much more to choose from here. If all this sounds too hot and spicy, servers know the menu intimately
and are ready to advise.
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DINE 2008 69

EURO MODERNE Courtesy Charlie Trotter, Palazzo Hotel

Azure
360 CN Tower
Opus
Pangaea
Rosewater Supper Club
Six Steps

70 DINE 2008

SARA SAYS...

I used to believe the most important factor in a restaurant’s success was location, location, location. Things change. Today, I agree with the chef 71
de cuisine Jonaton Lome at Azure that understanding the expectations of your customers is key. His philosophy of food works: “Buy the
best ingredients and do as little to them as possible.” The trend is to simplicity, rather than trying to turn a dish into something that it isn’t.
During the day, warmly welcoming light pours into the airy room from the atrium. This is a hotel dining room with a sparkling personality of its
own. Evenings, the stained glass, azure blue panels are the focal point and twinkling city lights, the soaring ceiling and the luxurious seating,
remind us that we are dining in a most cosmopolitan ambience. The smart menu tells a delectable story. Beet salad with feta cheese and
clementines; seared scallop with pepper, bacon and pineapple; seared yellowfin tuna, each with captivating wine recommendations. There are
platters to share with cocktails: oysters, artisanal cheeses, and a seafood sampler. Just a nibble during a meeting, before dinner. Your lunch or
dinner here can be as casual or formal as you choose. Main courses fulfill their promise. A lovely balanced plate of veal tenderloin and king crab
is bracketed by asparagus and potato croquet; the favourite cuts of Sterling Silver steaks are worthy; roasted Ontario lamb rack sizzles and is
enlivened by a ragout of white beans and mushrooms. Ask for the fish of the day, and receive it meticulously cooked. One must not leave the
table without paying homage to a pastry chef who presents a sampler tray of treasures that fulfill every sweet tooth fantasy.
SW

DINE 2008

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Open daily. And the ride up is free with the purchase of a main course.
Call now to book your view to the ultimate in fine dining.
Reservations: 416.362.5411
See our menus at www.cntower.ca

SARA SAYS...

It is a 61-second ascent in a glass elevator to the top of one of the world’s tallest structures. Here, one can have a memorable evening that
incorporates true Canadian cuisine and offers a 360-degree view of the city and its waterways.
Chef has made a choice. He does not compete with the view. His inspired dishes match nature’s extravagance and the glittering lights of the city’s
nightscape. A sommelier, well versed in the contents of the award-winning “Cellar in the Sky” will help in your choice of an appropriate bottle.
“Do you have any questions about what you see or are you familiar with Toronto?” is a friendly question from our server. Edible Canadian icons
fill the menu. While watching small aircraft take off and land at the Island Airport, enjoy a Canadian charcuterie platter of wild boar, prosciutto,
duck breast, farmhouse cheese and garnishes. There is pickerel from Northern Manitoba, Atlantic lobster, and a favourite, fish and chips, which
is grilled swordfish and thick cut fries. Berkshire pork and, the pride of the menu, AAA Canadian beef tenderloin Rossini topped with Quebec
foie gras. This kind of cuisine will make you want to stand up and salute the flag.
At lunch, moving in the same direction as the clouds, there is a burst of sunlight. The effect is totally surreal. The vista changes with the seasons.
On a clear winter evening, as we slowly circle in space between the stars and the bright lights of a snowy city, everything seems possible.
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72 DINE 2008

SARA SAYS...

Twilight time, when the electronic hum of commerce in the city is stilled,
cosmopolites seek the joys of good food and wine, in an ambience of
comfort and style.

Their destination, Opus, to enjoy a brilliant dining experience, orchestrated by owners Mario and Tony Amaro.
A carefully articulated menu does not challenge senses already on overload, it pampers. A presentation of
Canadian caviar intrigues with bursts of oceanic flavour on prairie buckwheat blinis; finely roasted caribou, elk,
beef and persil lamb are the new luxury of Canadian classics; and a trio of sweetly placed scallops and
sensually executed seafood are reminders of the virtues of simplicity.
Wine is the passion, the soul of Opus.
Chef Jason Cox, a diligent student of uncomplicated cuisine, works with a sensitivity to the wine list. The bound
list of more than 2,300 selections and 50,000 bottles covers most of the world’s major wine producers. The
depth and breadth of its cellar offers wines from $45 for a New World wine to $45,000 for a Chateau Petrus
1961 magnum.
The Wine Spectator has honoured Opus with its Grand Award every year since 2002.
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37 PRINCE ARTHUR AVENUE, TORONTO M5R 1B2 416 921 3105

pangaea

Pangaea restaurant is devoted to simplicity, elegance and nature. The décor
in our three dining rooms is elemental and spare without being austere;
positioned under an airy canopy of twinkling lights, Pangaea’s tables are
spacious and set far apart for your comfort.

Pangaea’s acclaimed menu unites regional ingredients with
international vision to create an inspired but uncontrived menu.
Add to these sensory experiences attentive service and an
award winning wine list, and it’s no wonder that Pangaea has
been a success since 1996.

1221 Bay Street, Toronto 416 920-2323 www.pangaearestaurant.com

For online reservations go to .com

SARA SAYS...

A coolly understated room, with an airy spaciousness highlighted by a glorious floral display, boasts an extravagant high ceiling and careful
lighting. It’s a magnet for people who enjoy an evening of fine dining and audible conversation.

The purity of flavours and impeccable, elegant cooking by the co-owner, chef Martin Kouprie, has always been the norm at Pangaea. His
experiments with textures and tastes complete a circle of flavours. He presents radical accessories like Stilton-apple risotto with rack of lamb;
beet/ginger butter with rainbow trout. He uses untreated scallops and sets them on corn chowder with honey mushrooms. Ask for calf’s liver,
and find that the three slices have been snatched from the grill at exactly the right second. The inspired desserts of pastry chef Joanne Yolles
have raised the bar on sophisticated desserts for the adult palate.

Peter Geary, co-owner, is in-house, spreading congeniality. It’s obvious he has trained the staff to his peerless specifications and to reflect his
easy manner. Much in evidence is professional courtesy, good timing and good manners.

If vintage wines are important to your evening's enjoyment, there is a nine-page wine list that also offers many wines by the glass.
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74 DINE 2008

SARA SAYS...

Enter Rosewater and one cannot help but be impressed by the hardwood and marble floors and the 22-foot-high ornate ceilings. In keeping with
the style of the place, they’ve built throne-like blue velvet banquettes for two or four in the dining room. Sitting here, being served Colville Bay
oysters from P.E.I. with champagne mignonette and cucumber gelée, or terrine of Ontario quail and Quebec foie gras that is charmed further by
spicy lemon jelly, one really feels like royalty.

Beautiful food for beautiful people, from a kitchen that understands what we want to eat now. Straightforward dishes perfectly presented and
matched with a wine list that is tightly focused on Italy. From the land, caribou hind marinated in black currant purée; a composition of Ontario
rack and leg of lamb. From the two oceans, there is lobster from Nova Scotia and wild B.C. salmon.

But there is more to this dazzling space than a dining room. The bar is an after-five hot spot with a musician at the baby grand. The glass-walled,
private dining rooms that hang in mid air in the mezzanine are a magnet for sophisticated groups.

As a rule, historic buildings make beautiful restaurants, and when the kitchen is superb, we have the best of both worlds.
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DINE 2008 75

SARA SAYS...

Count them. There are six steps from sidewalk to front door. With optimism, imagination and bravado, five friends became business partners in
a new venture and, a mere two years later, it has raised the bar of restaurant dining up a few notches. It’s a beautiful location, a tiny downtown
street with a parking lot opposite their front door. Inside, the ambience is confidently handsome and the proper service techniques are in full
effect. There is much to admire here—huge baroque mirrors on scrubbed brick walls; a high-ceilinged, deep room made more intimate by
extraordinary translucent chandeliers and solid wood tables and chairs that keep us in our comfort zone. Will the kitchen fulfill its promise?
Ben Ackland, a much-admired chef from London, is on the case, and we are the beneficiaries of his food philosophy: “Use only the best quality
products, served the way they were meant to be.” He carefully wraps scallops in prosciutto and roasts them gently; lobster is poached in butter
and has a fortunate union with house made pappardelle; lamb loin is slow roasted for four hours until flavour and texture hit their highest notes.
We love steak in this town, and Ackland has sourced a 14 oz Wellington County rib eye that does him proud. Dessert you say? We’ll just look at
the menu and see if anything calls out to us. Sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream and Ackland’s version of Bananas Foster, bananas
flambéed with vanilla ice cream and toasted almonds, just won’t take no for an answer. The goal of the owners of this handsome room is
achieved: “When the customer gets the cheque, he is happy to pay for his totally fulfilling dining experience.”
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76 DINE 2008

FRENCH

CLASSIQUE BISTRO

Chez Victor Biff’s Bistro
Didier Bistro 990
La Maquette Brassaii Bistro Lounge
Thuet Messis
Michelle’s

Edward Pond

DINE 2008 77

CHEZ VICTOR INSPIRES A NEW APPRECIATION OF “L’ART DE VIVRE”
Join us for a delicious array of unique flavours

with a focus on local produce. Simplicity yet we court the adventurous.

CHEZ VICTOR : L’ART DE LA TABLE RÉINVENTÉ
Pour vos repas entre amis, en tête-à-tête ou en solo,
Chez Victor marie avec succès style, chaleur et convivialité dans un cadre intimiste.

Hôtel Le Germain 30 Mercer Street, Toronto
| Reservations 416 883 3431 | [email protected] |

SARA SAYS...

Within the ultra chic Le Germain hotel, there is a restaurant that is a contradiction of elements. With contemporary architecture and décor, framed
by a soaring two-storey wall of glass, one would expect hard-edged, fashion food. But the kitchen pays homage to the newest trend—the cult of
the artisanal, the farm-raised and the locally grown—and draws inspiration, not only from its French roots, but also from the city’s diverse ethnic
composition. “The hotelier is hospitality minded and that,” says Exec Chef David Chrystian, “is a testament to the fact they let us do our own thing.”
The best of the main courses tend to be the classics, with a special touch by Chrystian, a passionate locavore. He serves Berkshire Pork loin with
avocado, wild leek pesto, poblano pepper and buffalo mozzarella cannelloni, pan-seared Arctic char has a crunchy surprise of radishes, olives,
cress, gremolata and fava bean purée. “After 10 years of running a restaurant,” he says, “I am confident in the way I translate my thoughts.”
He changes with the seasons, braising in winter, adjusting his techniques in summer.
We can choose from bison tartare, capped with a flourish by a soft fried egg, chips and dip, or roasted garlic and pine nut agnolotti with mushrooms,
salami and Allegretto cheese, and still be served a wine with a perfect balance. The objective of sommelier and restaurant manager Mark Moffatt
is “to find the food and wine pairing that leaves the wine tasting as close to the winemaker’s intention as possible.” A noble sentiment.
And Moffat can orchestrate an exceptional flight of wines to make your meal memorable.
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78 DINE 2008

SARA SAYS...

Can’t get to France to indulge in haute cuisine this year? We have Paris without a passport in the one of France’s most decorated sons right here 79
in mid-town. Chef Didier Leroy does not bend to the whim of foodie fashion and taste trends, nor does he compromise the integrity of his cuisine
to suit the diets du jour. Didier’s honours and accolades include: France’s prestigious Medal of the Chevalier de l’Ordre du Mérite Agricole for his
teaching and work to maintain the art of Classic Parisian cuisine in Canada, and induction in The Culinary Academy of France. Deservedly, with
sponsorship from Paul Bocuse, Didier will be named one of the Master Chefs (Maîtres Cuisiniers de France) in September 2008—an honour
bestowed to only 450 chefs worldwide (and the first and only one in Ontario.) Inside the spacious restaurant, the feel is decidedly European,
with classic, handsome pale-wood walls, starchy tablecloths and subdued lighting from chandeliers and wall sconces. A casual café and circular
marble bar with French doors open to the street is the perfect setting for lunch or superb Sunday brunch. With partner Tory Edwards, Didier
showcases exquisite renditions of classical French cuisine, served on Limoges china, through seasonal menus. His legions of fans indulge in
oeufs en cocottes Perigourdine, seared Quebec foie gras and perfectly balanced salads and soup purées. They sip wine from a list exclusive to
France and Canada, carefully chosen to match signature dishes such as: hand-cut steak tartar with pommes frites, bouillabaisse de poisson and
seared pickerel with Calvados beurre blanc. There is always at least one soufflé on the dessert list, and other favourites include apple tarte tatin
and Valrhona warm chocolate cake. It’s a restaurant like this that continues to keep French cuisine at the top of the world’s popularity poll.
SW DINE 2008

111 King Street East
Toronto
416.366.8191

SARA SAYS...

Enter the dramatic main floor lounge and you will pause to admire the black-and-white marble floor, black grand piano and elegant staircase.
The second floor dining room overlooks a unique sculpture garden, a testing ground for artists to experiment with public space. A musician plays
a soulful Spanish guitar and, whether gazing into a lover’s eyes, or out into the garden, there is one thing that is certain: at this most romantic of
environments, it’s all about the mood and the food.
The restaurant is a reflection of owner Ange Kanavas. “I wanted to be a doctor,” she says, and one way of providing healing is balancing what
we put into our bodies.” So 90 per cent of the products in her kitchen are organic. “When you leave my table, I want you to feel vital and alive,”
she says, and has created a menu of subtle simplicity that summons up all the elements of the way we like to eat now.
Summer, the patio is a dreamy spot, as it stands away from the street and, in winter, the whirling snow adds to the coziness of the room.
And while the restaurant is open and welcoming to the public, brides choose it often for their wedding parties. Perhaps it is because of the peals
of church bells from St. James Cathedral directly across the street.
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80 DINE 2008

SARA SAYS...

Extraordinary chandeliers and très chic decorative touches that do not subtract from comfortable chairs and large, well-spaced tables tell us the 81
personalities of the proprietors. Marc Thuet and his wife Biana Zorich fit this restaurant like the glass slippers fit Cinderella. Their shared exuberance
gives the place a special energy. While Biana runs the front of the house and is an all-seeing master of her domain, Marc is a chef extraordinaire,
whose credentials surpass most of his colleagues hereabouts. His menu will blow you away with its complexity and power, still staying resolute
in his acknowledgement of the seasons and his support of local farmers and food suppliers. The menu is peppered with the words artisanal
and organic and names our verdant regions. Translated, we are the beneficiaries of food prepared at its peak of freshness. Could a lesser chef
consider preparing duo of pan seared foie gras and crème brûlée, cherry and apple coulis and drizzle it with wild birch syrup essence, or coddle
a lobster with Mennonite butter and wild ginger?

Offering the best of land and sea, he slow roasts halibut wrapped with Berkshire pork loin, heirloom tomato purée and sea urchin emulsion.
A tasting menu is available on request and is determined by Mother Nature. Reservations for Sunday Brunch are priceless. Marc indulges us
with his French toast sandwich with seared smoked pork loin and maple syrup. A memorable dish is Steak haché Kobe, poached egg, double
smoked bacon, Monforte Dairy sheep’s milk cheese, sauce Choron. “Growing up in Europe,” says Biana, “we love traditional charcuterie paired
with wonderful wines,” and so, they’ve also created Atelier with the ambience of a dramatic Left Bank salon, to feature this cuisine.
SW DINE 2008



SARA SAYS...

The classic Bistro is alive and well on Bay Street. Evocative of an auberge in rural France, this yellow and red bright awning is a beacon of good 83
taste. Right at first glance, the Euro style décor with faux stone walls stenciled with Cocteau-esque designs, sturdily upholstered chairs and a
tiled floor speak of easy going comfort.

Enter through the compact lounge, which has long been a favourite haunt for those who like to eat a light meal at the bar. Rumour has it that
the martinis rank among the best in town. The wine list has been carefully crafted to suit the cuisine and offers New World and Old World
selections. The superior kitchen is seamlessly paired with bistro informality. Chef Franco Belvedere understands basic comfort foods.

Traditional pâté de maison is partnered with quince jelly. Chicken roasted to crackling crispness is aromatic with herbs and garlic and comes
with mashed potatoes; oven roasted halibut abounds with Provençal flavour. The regulars know their favourites and know that the menu does
not change. Nor does the waitstaff, who fit the scene like Holt fits Renfrew. They serve the returning names-in-the-news clientele and their
extended families with aplomb. It is a haven for international celebrities of stage, screen and politics who are secure in the knowledge that
once inside this charming restaurant, they are in good hands.
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DINE 2008

SARA SAYS...

Impressive wrought iron gates lead to a long, brick courtyard that ends at an historic, 1904 heritage building. Once, this was the Salada Tea
Company, and later, a sweat shop in the garment district. A skillful reno has left floors and ceilings intact and the huge banks of factory-size
windows have been Windexed to extreme sparkle.

The look is cool industrial chic. And it works very well, juxtaposed against the clientele, who are among the prettiest in town. This area is a hive of
lofts and offices where creativity blooms. The locals appreciate the pure bistro menu and breakfast on café au lait and a croissant with Nutella
and banana, or eggs any way you like ’em. They troop in for soul satisfying lunches that include “Triple S” daily soup, salad, sandwich, cell
phones and blackberries on full charge. Evenings, candles flicker, the mood is subdued but the buzz remains. Most nights, the large, windowed,
private dining room welcomes guests.

Brunch is in a league of its own. Irrestistable specialties like Kentucky Hot Brown (ask your waiter), frittata in a cast iron pan, and if you dare,
fresh donuts with chocolate espresso dip. At dinner, the kitchen has its crowd pleasers: market fresh, grilled whole fish brought sizzling and ready
to be shared; a nightly braise of, say, lamb shank or duck breast, and desserts enough to fill every sweet craving. Gustave Brassaii, the edgy
1920s photographer who captured Paris by night, might have found the scene très chic.
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84 DINE 2008

messis

97 Harbord St., Toronto

416-920-2186
www.messis.ca

SARA SAYS...

As a young man, chef Eugene Shewchuk had such a crush on France, he went to Paris and opened his own bistro just north of the Bastille. 85
Sixteen years ago, he brought all that je ne sais quoi back to Harbord Street—at the time, an equivalent of the area he’d come from—and
focused all his energies on Messis. He wanted to create the kind of mid-range-fine-dining-affordable bistro that one finds all over Europe,
where the owner/chef is always in house. In summer, we like to linger on this lovely terrace, with its tiny lights twinkling in the high cedar hedge.
But if dine indoors we must, the newly reno’d dining room is welcoming, with its modern, chocolate brown interior and lighting that makes us
all look rested. Eugene is not a chef/owner in need of an editor. His appetizer of curried shrimp and crab cakes with coconut, mango and
pineapple is a highlight. He has honed his menu, service and style to perfection and staff and kitchen work in silent harmony. Menus change on
the whim of the market. Today, there is fettuccine in a tomato coconut broth with sautéed tiger shrimp, julienne veggies and plump bok choy.
Tomorrow might bring penne with cremini mushrooms, black olives, artichoke hearts, tomatoes and spinach in basil pesto sauce. At the next
table, they’re saying, “ah, real food,” and cutting into basil crusted roast rack of lamb with sweet corn and herb polenta. Exclaiming over the
artichoke jasmine rice spring roll that comes with oven roasted Atlantic salmon. Priced the way it is, and run with unforced polish, Messis recalls
what an affordable pleasure dining out without fuss can be, whether in Europe or mid-town Toronto.
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DINE 2008

brasserie beach house

162 cumberland st., toronto 1955 queen st. east, toronto
416.944.1504 416.944.1504

SARA SAYS...

The romantic French bistro is alive and well and living happily in the Yorkville arrondissement. Décor is reminiscent of an old train station in Paris
with a view of the Eiffel Tower. Winter, pillows and cozy throws are strewn on banquettes to ward off the season’s chill. Summer, the terrace,
quietly off-street, is a favourite place to relax. A red baby grand piano invites any guest to play.

Michelle Gebhart’s brasserie is an obvious labour of love. A rarity in this city, it boasts an ice bar embedded along the perimeter of the oak bar.
Traditional Absinthe service and a vast selection of international beer, each served in it’s own unique glass, is unmatched in the city.

At lunch, a generous Croque Monsieur or Madame, Coquille St. Jacques or lobster, avocado and papaya salad are menu favorites. Evenings,
the kitchen offers classic steak frites, a unique veal plate with a trio of seared veal, liver and sweet breads and marrow bone. Regulars just ask
for the daily dinner special: chicken and rib combo Mondays, live seafood boil Fridays and Sunday, prime rib, of course.

People hate to leave Michelle’s, and we can see them through the windows, way after midnight, sitting and chatting, having just another glass
of wine, just another plate of cheese.
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86 DINE 2008

Edmund Bell, courtesy CUT, Beverly Wilshire, A Four Seasons Hotel STEAK

Harbour Sixty Steakhouse
Jacobs & Co. Steakhouse
Steak Restaurant/Bar

DINE 2008 87

60 HARBOUR STREET, TORONTO 416.777.2111 WWW.HARBOURSIXTY.COM

SARA SAYS...

Call this a philosophical, spiritual defense of seriously marbled beef. Carnivores in lust are drawn here by visions of great steaks. The very best 89
that the world has to offer is on display in a sterile, glass-walled, temperature-controlled ageing room: Snake River Farms Wagyu Beef from Idaho
and USDA Prime from Pennsylvania. This is not your father’s steak house.

A piano lounge and raw bar are comfort zones pre- or post-dinner. Wherever the eye falls, there is the natural beauty of dark wood, polished
marble, slate and stone. Private dining rooms hold joyous groups and, in every room, comfort is key.

Invite a friend who has a passion for life’s pleasures. Someone who can pick up a steak knife and dig into a N.Y. strip loin on the bone, aged
36 days—naturally tender, juicy and crusted from the grill, sprinkle a pinch of all three salts, black, pink and white—and enjoy it with gusto.
A friend who likes garlic and fresh white anchovies in their Caesar salad that’s made tableside from scratch. Someone who will offer to share
their duck fat, French-fried potatoes without being asked, or their Wagyu beef tartare.

Sourcing Matsuzaka beef from Japan, Wagyu from Hawaii and the U.S., rare beef cuts from Uruguay and Spain, have made the partners beef
experts. Yes, there are 24 oz and 48 oz steaks—but with beef, size doesn’t matter. It’s the marbling and quality that count. Gastronomic dream
works, served in black, cast-iron pans.
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DINE 2008

SARA SAYS...

Hard-core Canadian cuisine, steak and potatoes, has had more comebacks than the Rolling Stones, is more universally loved than the Queen
Mum and more reviled than smoking in an elevator. For every person who backs away from red meat and cries boo, there are dyed in the wool
carnivores that chant moo, and happily drive across town for a crusty, charcoal-grilled slab of beef. At lunch, hungry hordes from surrounding
office towers fill the spacious tables and booths in this large airy room, devouring huge bowls of New England Clam Chowder, jumbo shrimp
cocktails and salads the size of California. The beef burger with all the trimmings can keep an executive fueled even if she is working late at the
office. Each steakhouse has its shtick, and you either love it or leave it. Here, it’s two-fold: big portions—small prices. Can’t beat that. While there
are steaks that spawn a tug of war between steak and knife, all the beef here is Sterling Silver, Alberta’s best, and tender as a lover’s kiss. The
12-oz. or 16-oz. New York sirloin will satisfy any meat eater’s happy carnal nature. We like the Chicago cut 24 oz. Porterhouse, sliced and served
for two. It’s one of the most spiritual steak experiences in the city. From the section called Sides, be aware that a platter of broccoli can serve the
table, that the baked potato is enough for two, that the sautéed garlic rapini will make you an instant fan of this mildly bitter green, and that half
and half means just that—and at the same price. If you have room for triple fudge torte or key lime pie, you’re what mama would call “a good
eater.” Montrealers Charles and Muriel Shuchat are the affable proprietors of this social spot, and while they may not greet you and seat you,
they are in-house, making sure that every one of their guests is happy.
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90 DINE 2008

Sandy Davidson AMERICAN CASUAL

Autogrill
Carole’s Cheesecake Company
Cluck, Grunt & Low
Eggstasy

DINE 2008 91



SARA SAYS...

I admit it; I'm a cheesecake junkie. It all began about 25 years ago, when Carole Ogus began to make and sell cheesecake. I started off with just
a small slice of plain cheesecake, with a little strawberry preserves as a topping. But then that just wasn’t enough for me. As Carole got more fancy
schmancy in her cheesecake flavours, so did my craving to try them all. Cappuccino, caramel brownie and crème brûlée. Peach caramel, pistachio
and rocky road. She read my mind and created a Multi-Pack, a variety of six slices. A few Multi-Packs could accompany me on a road trip.

But still, it’s not enough. Carole makes classic carrot cake, mousse cakes, coffee cakes and Mandelbrot to dip into coffee. And, to dip into our
fashion sense, the ultimate designer chocolate cake.

Spreading the good news all over town, Carole’s has franchised some cafés. Besides the luxurious cheesecake, go for the homemade soups
and substantial salads.

Carole’s Cheesecake Company is woven into the fabric of our gastronomic history, and we like it there.
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DINE 2008 93

SARA SAYS...

Chomping, chewing, lip-smacking, finger-licking chowhound devotees of barbecue have found a new spiritual home. Brad and Angelina could
walk through the door and no one would look up from their platters of sweet BBQ-sauce-saturated strings of pulled pork.
Sitting on stools made of tractor seats, they're digging into platters of Kansas City sweet and sticky pork ribs, a half slab or full, uncaring that the
thick molasses and cider vinegar sauce is slopping on face, fingers and shirts. The more elegant diner is happy with tiny dry-rub lamb ribs. If it
moves, clucks, grunts or says “Mooo,” they’ve given it the barbecue treatment. Cornish game hen gets the dry rub; brisket of beef is piled on
the plate in rich, thick slices. Beef ribs come either sticky-sauced or dry, and a little of each of these Fred Flintstone-sized bones will fulfill the
deepest barbecue cravings. Sides for those who must abide by Canada’s food rules include potato salad, baked beans and coleslaw.
No one walks out with smoke streaming from his or her ears, but if you whisper, “extra hot” to the kitchen, they can probably accommodate you.
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94 DINE 2008

Homemade Lunch and Dinner

...and yes we do serve Breakfast

Humungous salads
Gourmet burgers
Sandwiches & Wraps

Steak and fish
Homemade breakfasts

EGGSTASY DINER & GRILL

1255 Bay St. Toronto 416- 964-2333

East side of Bay Street between Yorkville and Cumberland

SARA SAYS...

Tucked into the elbow of a Bay Street office tower is a classic American style deli. The menu is irreverent and peppered with puns and humour.
In the Humongous Salads section, a favourite is Drag It Through the Garden Marvin, and Low Cal Pal. Big & Juicy Stuff lists a CBC Burger and,
if you want your burger with more class, try the chopped steak with mushrooms and onions and a side of mashed potatoes and gravy.
Some people like to sit in the spacious booths, others prefer tables—but that’s okay, there is room for everyone.
There’s a section Just For Kids that recommends mini-burgers and fries, or chicken poppers and fries as well as other kid-food. Smoothies with
fruit and yogurt or soy milk for the health-aware are made to order.
Of course, there’s a line up for Sunday Brunch, with people hungry for dishes from the Egg Directory: 3 egg benedictions; combination omelettes;
creative combos and more.
The big surprise to most folks is that this place is open for dinner, and offers the same huge menu with the same tiny price tag.
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DINE 2008 95

SUPPER CLUB Tobaron Waxman
and lounge

Proof and Skylounge
Satori
Ultra Supper Club

96 DINE 2008

SARA SAYS...

From where I sit, on a luxe leather sofa, sipping a mixologist’s signature martini, crunching on house-made crisp potato chips still warm from the 97
oven and gaze up at the stars, it is hard to believe that I am just steps away from the chrome-to-chrome traffic and noise of bustling Bloor Street.
This beautiful spot, with its foliage-rich, landscaped perimeter is not a well-kept secret, but it is a hidden gem, sheltering and safe. The reactions
of first time visitors who enter through the hotel or from the street along a well-lit, walkway are always the same: “Where has this been all my life?”

The clientele is a broad mix of midtown crowd, which creates a convivial atmosphere, and staff is enthusiastic and smiles easily. The menu fits
the scene, as degrees of hunger and thirst are given every consideration and suit the appetite to a “T.” There is the coldTease: crab salad with
cherry tomatoes on the vine; beef carpaccio; and assorted yummy salads. The hotTease lures us with butter-poached shrimp; seared octopus.
If you are wracked with indecision, try the chefsTease, a good selection of almost everything.

On a sultry summer evening, dinner at a table in this outdoor lounge can be a casual but gorgeous Skyburger with frites, or a sophisticated
duck au vin. Platters for two or more of meats, cheeses and seafood are the dishes of choice for groups celebrating special events. Alas, we
are hostages of our weather. Cold winds blow for most of the year, and we need to be indoors. So we lounge at dramatically decorated Proof,
on lime green suede sofas, admire the sparkling bar and its myriad array of Vodkas and dine on a winter version of the Skylounge menu.
SW

DINE 2008

SARA SAYS...

Glamour is alive and well and having a great evening on Queen West. “Satori means enlightenment,” says owner Richard Bailey, and he
believes in living in the moment and having the best time in that moment. There is no glitz street side to give passersby a hint of what’s
happening in this interior of natural wood and stone. At the dinner hour, in the dining room or on the patio in summer, the kitchen manned
by chef Scott McDonough offers dishes that are a cut above the basic. An innovator in the kitchen, he has our favourite dishes and gives
them a unique presentation boost. The Satori salad, set on a base of frisée splashed with lemon truffle dressing, is a deep fried poached egg,
double cooked bacon, asparagus and peppered croutons. Call it an all day breakfast.

Scott pan sears wild Lake Erie pickerel, bones and filets it, picks a handful of basil from the window boxes and makes fresh pesto; aware of
customers’ needs, his Lasagna is gluten-free, made with rice pasta, grilled tofu, soy cheese and all the Italian veggies he can muster. There
are surprises on the menu: grilled rib eye of Bison, rack of lamb marinated with lemongrass, and confit of chicken with fried plantain hash.
Swept clean of the ghosts of other restaurants, other times, there is now an ambience of sophistication, which adapts easily to the turn of the
evening and the intensity of the DJ music and customers.
SW

98 DINE 2008