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Published by DINE AND DESTINATIONS Magazine, 2019-10-09 22:55:50

DINE 2019-20

DINE Magazine 2019-20

$10 時裝與購物

dinemagazine.ca HEARTLAND
JAPAN

NEW YORKVILLE LIFE

MONGOLIA
BY MOTORBIKE
DOLCE VITA IN THE

ITALIAN ALPS

Villes CHanisatdoireinquneess

www.enjoymyjapan.jp

With B&R, you’ll explore Japan’s most serene and picturesque pockets,
marvel at the epic rides along the Noto Peninsula, bask in quiet walks
through fishing villages, visit centuries-old temples, partake in the time-

honoured tea ceremony, and slow down to soak in mountain hot springs.

For more informaton:
www.butter eld.com/japan/

info@butter eld.com
1-866-551-9090



TWO BRAND NEW CRUISES
SET SAIL IN 2020

Bordeaux SOUTH OF FRANCE
Cruise Cruise

MAY - JUNE , JUNE - ,

Spectacular tastings abound on a journey World-renowned chefs and rich culture await
through France’s premier wine region. you in the sun-soaked South of France.
Only 6 cabins available. Only 6 cabins available.

E X P E R I E N C E F R A N C E F R O M A N E N T I R E LY U N I Q U E P E R S P E C T I V E .

Join fellow inquisitive Canadians – and soon-to-be lifelong friends – for an intimate, private river cruise that only
The Globe and Mail could offer. Your favourite Globe journalists will accompany you on your adventure, sharing their insights
on the day’s pressing stories, as well as informing various excursions that celebrate France's history, culture, cuisine and wine.

FOR MORE CRUISE DETAILS AND TO BOOK CABINS

globeandmailcruises.com

LUXURY TOWN HOMES ON
THE CORNER OF AVENUE & ST. CLAIR

FROM $3.25 MILLION

The Foxbar Town Homes are a limited collection of luxury town home
residences nestled along Foxbar Road in the established Imperial Village

community. Enjoy modern luxuries, without compromise.

TO BOOK YOUR PRIVATE APPOINTMENT, CONTACT KEVIN CRIGGER TODAY.
416.837.3296 OR EMAIL [email protected]

Brokers Protected. Sales Representative: Kevin Crigger. Broker: Johnston & Daniel a division of Royal LePage Real Estate Services Ltd. Brokerage.
Consultant: Barberry (DP) Inc. Prices and specifications are subject to change without notice. Illustrations are artist’s concept. E. & O.E.

Table of Contents

10 T he New Yorkville 36 P ortland 50 H iroshima 55 B est Hotels

Here Comes the “The Dream of the 90’s...” Symbols of Peace Kieo Plaza Hotel Tokyo
Neighborhood Four Seasons New York City
Behind Closed Doors 42 B BQ Bible Belt 51 T okyo
The New Yorkville Man 58 M arkham
Lip-Smacking Traditions Multi-Sensory Arts
14 N adia Di Donato From State to State Build It and They Will Come
52 M ie
A conversation with a 44 Miami 64 A lana Duke
Designing Woman The Ama Divers
Our love affair with Miami... A conversation with a fine
16 A dler Spa Dining and Gallery Hopping 53 S himane dining Grande Dame

Trasformazionale! 49 K arate Heartland Japan 68 O ntario Getaways

18 V enice 2020 Olympics Debut 5 Destinations for Family
Activities in Ontario
Veni Vidi Vici
72 W innipeg
20 S pain
Warm in the dry cold of
For The Love of Winnipeg
Gastronomia en Madrid
74 Q uebec City
22 L os Cabos
The Romance of History
At Play in Los Cabos
76 N ordic Spa
24 P eru
Around the World in a Spa
For Gods Eyes Only
78 O ttawa
26 M ongolia
48 Hours in a Company
A Nomadic Welcome in Town
the Mongolian Steppe
80 Y our Astrological
28 S ara Says Travel Guide

Where to DINE now in dinemagazine.ca
Toronto

4

The Imperial Collection atop 101 St Clair.
Toronto’s Premier Penthouse Rental Residences.

NOW ACCEPTING LEASING APPOINTMENTS

· Finest in luxury finishes including integrated Gaggenau appliances,

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· Direct access to LCBO, The Market by Longo’s and Starbucks

Suites from $5,000 to $14,000/month

Illustrations are Artist’s concept. Prices & specifications are subject to change without notice. E.&.O.E.

From The Publishers

We live in interesting times. We are a society hungry You’ve got bread, and a toaster of some kind?” Asks Jack
for new travel experiences and adventure: the little Nicholson in Five Easy Pieces, before telling the waitress to
known destination, the foods untasted, the beach- hold the chicken between her knees. Today, forget about
es untrod, and the cultures unexplored have intro- “No Subsitutions.” We identify ourselves by our diets. Are
duced themselves to the world, and invited us to come on down. From you a vegan, a flexitarian, paleo, or gluten-free? Menus have to not only
the beaches of Los Cabos to the Mongolian Steppe, from the Dolomite cater to our individual food groups, but they must also be allergy-tested
Mountains in Italy to the the familiar comfort of Miami, we have trav- and keep up with our travel interests. Entrees are dinosaurs in the face
elled by planes, trains, automobiles, boats and motorcycles and are ex- of bold flavour-forward sharing plates. The more globally inspired, the
cited to share a few good stories with you. better. Everyone is trying to reinvent the wheel, and menu innovations
are its spokes, as are creative mocktails for the growing number of teeto-
Customs of food and drink are fascinating, and in this issue we have tallers. Consumers demand environmental sustainability and restaura-
taken a culinary trip around the world, seeking authenticity. Venetian teurs seek technological efficiencies. What’s a chef to do? Of course, the
cuisine is unique and has little resemblance to the Italian cuisine in our elephant in the room is cannabis, and we’re all waiting with bated breath
back yard. Occupied by Austria, Venice became part of the Kingdom of for the great puff that industrious entrepreneurs have been preparing for
Italy in 1866, but the Venetian style self propagated. Miami cuisine has like the countdown to a rocket launch.
incorporated the bright flavours of Cuba. Dining in Los Cabos gave us a We’re seeking new experiences to shake the doldrums. Ambience
thrilling taste of the traditional and modern Mexican cuisine. And pizza? and décor in Toronto dining are determining the second date. Val-
Well that belongs to the world now. Sorry Italy. Exploring our own coun- ue-packed family travel across Ontario is booming. Regional tourism
try, we fell in love again with Quebec City, barely escaped frostbite in organizations throughout Japan are polishing off enticing initiatives
Winnipeg in January and regained a sense of pride in our capital, Ottawa. for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. With feverish curiousity we crave what
In Toronto, Yorkville has been revived with a full body makeover, buffed we’ve never tasted, where we’ve never been—that final frontier: “To
and polished and placed on the market for millions. Hard to believe that boldly go where no one has gone before.” From the heights of Spanish
this is where once hippies congregated and asked for spare change. gastronomy to the highs of Portland’s bud-tending, and the lines only
seen from the sky above Peru, is where we travel written in the stars?
We are not inspectors searching for cracks in the armor of the hos- We hope you’ll enjoy our journey through the backyard of Ontario to
pitality and travel universe. We are story tellers who want to share our the hinterlands of the world.
fascinating experiences that we believe will make you say, “Hey, I want
to go there.”

Editor in Chief Production Design Publisher SARA WAXMAN ON THE COVER PHOTOGGRAPHY, STEVE BRUNO (ADAM WAXMAN)
SARA WAXMAN Lauren Emery Associate Publisher Photographed by Eden Robbins,
Contributing Writers ADAM WAXMAN on location at Akira Back in Bisha
Executive Editor Jeremy Freed, Eleanor Hotel, Toronto.
ADAM WAXMAN Hughes, Marcia L. Masino, DINE AND DESTINATIONS Model is Tamara Balazsovits,
Art Director Breanna Wilson is published annually by DINE Sutherland Models, wearing a
STEPHANIE WHITE Contributing Photographers Magazine Inc. 131 Bloor St. W. #911, gown from The Room at The
Eden Robbins (cover), Alfred Chow Toronto, ON, M5S 1S3. Hudsons Bay Company, and
6 Translators The contents of DINE AND bracelet and ring by Swarovski.
Shirley Chan (Mandarin) DESTINATIONS are copyright Special shout out to Room1Six
Marcelle Lean (French) 2019/2020 by DINE Magazine Salon.
DINE MAGAZINE INC. Inc., and may not be printed or facebook.com/dinemagazine
131 Bloor Street West, Suite 911 reproduced, including in a digital twitter.com/dinemagazine
Toronto, ON, Canada M5S 1S3 format, without express written instagram.com/dine_magazine
permission of the publisher.

dinemagazine.ca

The Last of a True Yorkville Landmark

An elevated standard of luxury rises above all in the heart of Yorkville
at Cumberland Street and Avenue Road.

Perched 26 storeys above the prized Cumberland Tower residences, Yorkville Private Estates is an offering unique unto
itself. With its stately porte-cochère leading to a private lobby, enjoy unmatched 24/7 executive concierge services in a luxury
residence that will be distinctive in every sense of the word.

Move in 2020 | Only 5 residences remain | From $5 million
416.484.4371 | yorkvilleprivateestates.com

Broker’s Protected. Sales Representative: Kevin Crigger, Broker, Johnston & Daniel a division of Royal LePage Real Estate Services Ltd. Brokerage Consultant:
Barberry (DP) Inc. Prices and specifications are subject to change without notice. Illustrations are artist’s concept. E & O. E

VISION FOR GOOD
HEALTH

SHELDON HERZIG
MD, FRCSC, CO-FOUNDER,

MEDICAL DIRECTOR

Good vision is an essential component of our After the age of 40, the incidence of dry eye increases
quality of life. as well - especially in winter months or after prolonged
reading and computer use. Artificial tears can be helpful
Most people consider sight to be their most important as can sophisticated treatments such as LipiFlow, which
sense, so we really should take good care of our eyes at can help prevent tear evaporation. Diet can also make a
every stage of our lives. difference, especially the fatty acids found in omega-3
As with all other organs, caring for our eyes starts with fish oil.
proper diet and exercise. The eyes are also exposed to
external hazards and should have appropriate protection. Regular eye examinations are important after the age
It’s important to wear the appropriate UV-blocking of 40, not only because of the increased incidence of
sunglasses and protective eyewear when we’re involved in age-related problems but also because a retinal exam
sports, work and hobbies that carry the potential for eye can detect the presence of a systemic disease, such as
injury. hypertension or diabetes, as well as the risk of stroke.
Young adults with good vision who don’t need glases
typically also don’t have regular eye exams. However, the After the age of 60, other significant changes occur in
onset of age-related diseases such as glaucoma and our eyes. The incidence of cataracts increases
macular degeneration can occur at a surprisingly young dramatically because the natural lens starts to become
age - especially if there is a family history. In the earliest less clear, and may eventually become cloudy.
stages these can only be identified by an eye doctor. Early Fortunately, cataract surgery today is quite safe and,
detection is key. Even if your vision seems to be normal, when combined with refractive surgery, can restore
an eye exam every two to three years is advisable. both distance and near vision - eliminating the need for
Diabetics of all ages should have their eyes checked glasses.
annually - and more frequently if diabetic changes have
already occurred in the retina. Controlling blood sugar is The frequency of age-related macular degeneration
critical for the prevention of diabetic retinopathy. (ARMD) also increases after the age of 60. Exercise,
Problems with distance vision in adults less than 40 years proper diet and the avoidance of smoking are important
old are typically due to myopia, astigmatism or both. in preventing and delaying the progression of ARMD.
Difficulty reading before the age of 40 can occur in Once it’s been detected, specific eye vitamins such as
association with significant farsightedness, but is less Vitalux or Ocuvite have been proven to slow its
common. Many patients opt for laser vision correction progression.
because of its safety and precision. In contrast, contact
lenses require meticulous care to prevent serious corneal About Herzig Eye Institute
infection that can be damaging to eyesight. The Herzig Eye Institute has treated thousands of
As we move through our 40s and 50s, near vision starts patients from across Canada, 42 US States and 23
to deteriorate, and we may find that we need reading countries worldwide. With a world-renowned surgical
glasses or bifocals. This loss of near vision is called team, precision diagnostics and advanced technologies,
presbyopia and is caused by hardening of the eye’s the Herzig Eye Institute specializes in providing a range
natural lens. New treatments are now available to restore of life-changing procedures, all under one roof: Laser
near vision. These include laser vision correction, laser Vision Correction (SMILE, LASIK or PRK), Refractive
blended vision, corneal inlays and multifocal intraocular Lens Exchange (RLE), Intraocular Collamer Lens (ICL),
implants. Laser Cataract Surgery and treatment for presbyopia
(loss of reading vision), Advanced Laser Cataract
Surgery and Advanced Dry Eye treatments.

CALL 647-557-4857 FOR YOUR COMPLIMENTARY CONSULTATION
Visit us at herzig-eye.com I 150 Bloor Street West, Suite 210, Toronto, ON.

Herzig Eye Institute is a leader in SMILE,
the next generation in laser vision correction technology.

High Definition Vision® Solutions

Laser Vision Correction | Advanced Laser Cataract Specialists

HERE COMES THE NEIGHBORHOOD
Yorkville Private Estates. Waiting for discerning owners to recognize and claim them.

T HERE EXISTS IN ALL MAJOR CITIES significant residential be a library, guest room, games room? We all love a bonus. Walk in closets
addresses that immediately identify one’s status in the world. are spacious enough to satisfy the most fashion forward resident. With
In Toronto, a high class boutique residence has been created in empathy, the designers have had a specific clientele in mind, a clientele
Yorkville, an enclave renowned for its urbane lifestyle, high end that expects the best and is uncomfortable with anything less. The luxury
fashion shops, dining excellence, museums and galleries. finishes offered are high-end Miele appliances in kitchens by Downsview—
inspirational to the most jaded cook. Floors are by Relative Space and ceil-
Introducing Yorkville Private Estates, the fulfillment of the Camrost ing heights are up to a generous 10 feet. Plumbing fixtures by Waterworks
Felcorp Inc.’s revitalization of the iconic and historic Four Seasons Hotel Bathrooms are in harmony with the environment and present a sense of
land on the corner of Cumberland Street and Avenue Road, that is truly a spa-like serenity with heated floors and stone counter tops. The structure
work of art in architecture. Perched on top of the already occupied Cum- itself was designed by WZMH, the renowned, award-winning architectural
berland Tower, these 48 luxurious sky homes offer unparalleled views of firm that designed the iconic CN Tower, as well as the Four Seasons Hotel
Toronto, and intrigued me to the point where I put on a hardhat and steel which once stood where Yorkville Private Estates now sits.
toed shoes and experienced a tour of the premises.
Window walls afford majestic views of treetops and parkland as well
Enter through a magnificent, limestone porte-cochere, and be greeted as the Yorkville inner-city scene. Surveying the view from a room-sized
by professional staff of Forest Hill Kipling, a market leader in the delivery recessed balcony with wind walls is the next generation of design. Pow-
of luxury personalized front-of-house staff and building management. ell & Bonnell’s expertly designed building amenities are numerous and
At Yorkville Private Estates, valet attendants, porters and executive con- include an aquatics centre, state-of-the-art fitness auditorium with
cierges will be on duty 24-7 to arrange everything from private car detail- circuit training and cardio equipment, a yoga studio, reception lounge
ing and dry cleaning to dog walking and the arrangement of dinner reser- and dining room for private events. Step away from the oversized pool
vations and theatre tickets. Ah, the extravagance of a personal assistant. to an outdoor terrace with covered bar and prep kitchen, gas BBQs and a
lounge, as if to a private resort in the sky.
The rich porte-cochere lobby and interior design is by award-winning
Powell & Bonnell, renowned for their keen eye to detail and capability to In the rarified air of floors 26 to 40, there are just a handful of Yorkville
realize each client’s vision. Every space created is purposely designed to Private Estate residences available, from $5 million to $27 million, wait-
suit lifestyle preferences. In each of the magnificent residences, finalizing ing for their discerning owners to recognize and claim them.
their construction, my imagination soars with ideas of opulence juxta- www.camrost-felcorp.com
posed with complete understated simplicity.
By Sara Waxman
The indulgence of space, that extra room we always wish for, might it

PHOTOGRAPHY, CAMROST-FELCORP

10 dinemagazine.ca

Plastic Surgeon Dr. Michael J. Weinberg BSc, MSc, The Institute of Human Mechanics was

MD, FRCSC. is widely known for his dedication to built to transform the patient-practitioner

patient comfort and safety, and for producing excep- experience by providing a new, higher stan-

tionally natural looking results. Dr. Weinberg offers dard of healthcare and regenerative medi-

in depth one on one consultation. He is caring and cine to patients. Destined to operate with an

conservative, taking time to understand personal international presence, IHM clinics will bring

concerns and expectations. He has two exclusive clin- together individuals from the top of their

ics: in Yorkville, and at his Mississauga Cosmetic field – from medical professionals in derma-

Surgery Clinic across from Trillium Health Centre tology and oncology to fitness practitioners

where he is Chief of Plastic and Reconstructive Sur- and beyond. Founded by visionary physician,

gery, Division Head and Assistant Professor. With a Dr. Anthony Galea, best known for the Plate-

serene spa-like atmosphere, his clinics offer state of let Rich Plasma Therapy (PRP) innovation

the art options in both surgical and non-surgical cosmetic medical and surgical treatments to treat injury and transform the lives of his

tailored to each patient’s individual needs. When considering a body contouring proce- patients for the better, IHM is committed to

dure, such as liposuction or tummy tuck, breast surgery such as augmentation or reduction, providing patients with the confidence and

or a facelift, brow lift or eyelid surgery, Dr. Weinberg and his team will discuss the latest science to live their best lives. The inaugural

in technological advances that will insure improved healing, reduced scarring and greater clinic welcomes renowned cosmetic sur-

comfort. A leading expert in non-surgical rejuvenation, he also offers a full complement of geon Dr. Trevor M. Born as its first medical

injectable treatments, lasers, non-invasive fat reduction devices and cell-based therapies collaborator. The TMB Medspa will be

such as Platelet Rich Plasma and personalized skin care programs to enhance beauty at all dedicated entirely to non-invasive esthetic

ages. www.mississaugacosmeticsurgeryclinic.com procedures and offer patients inno-

Dr. Sheldon Herzig, MD, FRCSC, WFBCBDIEENELAOLAOHDNLOUISNINDNERTEDDSGYSS vative skincare, body-shaping and
is the co-founder and Medical therapeutic treatments designed to
Director of the Herzig Eye Insti- help people achieve their personal
tute. The onset of age-related goals with little downtime. “The
diseases such as glaucoma and demand for safe and effective non-sur-
macular degeneration can occur gical aesthetic treatments has grown
at a surprisingly young age, and substantially over the years,” Dr. Born
through age 40s and 50s, near explains. “People want to look and
vision starts to deteriorate. This feel their best, but don’t necessarily
loss of near vision is called pres- want to commit to surgical procedures
byopia and is caused by hardening or long recovery times. We’ll offer
of the eye’s natural lens. New treatments include laser vision cor- them the best, most advanced regen-
rection, laser blended vision, and multifocal intraocular implants. erative treatments in a luxurious and
After age 40, the incidence of dry eye increases as well, especially calm space that reflects our commit-
in winter months or after prolonged reading and computer use. ment to exceptional care and service.”
Artificial tears, and sophisticated treatments such as LipiFlow, www.tmbcosmeticssurgery.com

can help prevent tear evaporation. At this age, a retinal exam can

detect the presence of a systemic disease, such as hypertension or

diabetes, as well as the risk of stroke. After age 60, the incidence of cataracts increases dra-

matically because the natural lens starts to become less clear, and may eventually become

cloudy. Fortunately, cataract surgery today is quite safe and, when combined with refractive

surgery, can restore both distance and near vision, eliminating the need for glasses. Age-re-

lated macular degeneration (ARMD) also increases after age 60, and vitamins that contain

lutein and zeaxanthin have proven to slow its progression. With a world-renowned surgical

team, precision diagnostics and advanced technologies: Laser Vision Correction (SMILE,

LASIK or PRK), Refractive Lens Exchange (RLE), Intraocular Collamer Lens (ICL), Laser

Cataract Surgery and treatment for presbyopia (loss of reading vision), advanced laser

cataract surgery, and dry eye, the Herzig Eye Institute specializes in providing a range of

life-changing procedures, all under one roof. www.herzig-eye.com

dinemagazine.ca Dr. Nowell Solish, M.D.,F.R.C.P.(C) is a renowned specialist in Cosmetic Dermatology. He works closely with the FDA,
pharma companies and Health Canada to approve the Botox and fillers which he has been injecting for 25 years. In his
office he has a complete clinical trial unit where he tests and studies the newest products for cosmetic rejuvenation. Dr.
Solish did all the original studies to get Botox approved and is now working with different types of Botox, some of which
have been shown to be more effective than those readily available, hoping to have them approved by the FDA and Health
Canada in 2020. He also tests many fillers and obtains them before they have wide spread use. Often Canada gets these
fillers before the U.S. Dr. Solish is one of the physicians chosen to study the products, and when they become available,
help launch them in the U.S.. Lab equipment that he uses to analyze the results of these studies fills his office, and the
results are eventually published in highly regarded medical journals. Today, many spas and hair salons offer cosmetic
treatments including lasers, Botox, and fillers. While many of these procedures are extremely safe and effective, this
applies only when performed by a properly trained physician. Dr. Solish is constantly seeing and treating issues from
other clinics and centres around the GTA. Buyer Beware. Credentials matter. www.solish.com

11

Sci-fi sneakers,
harness bags
and skincare
serums are the
definition of
cool for the
new stylish,
modern male

John Ferrigamo phillip

The New Yorkville Man

T HE SECOND FLOOR baseball caps. One street over,
of Prada’s Bloor street The Abnormal Beauty Company
boutique is a paradise specializes in a wide range of skin-
for a certain kind of care products that are noteworthy
man. With its minimalist modern for being completely unisex. For the
lounge chairs, plush checkerboard modern fashionable man, having the
rug and green velvet curtains, right skin serum and daily cleanser
it’s designed to appeal to a man of can be just as important as sporting
sophisticated tastes and modern the latest runway collection.
sensibilities, one who covets colour-
ful sneakers and statement jewelry, Inside the Yorkville Village shop-
and scours the internet for the latest ping centre, Philip Zappacosta’s
runway looks. menswear boutique, philip, offers
still more variety for the style-seek-
Once a rarity in Canada, where John Ferrigamo ing man. “It’s about respect for
men have lagged behind their tradition with a look towards the
European counterparts in embracing bold prints and tailored fits, future,” says Zappacosta of his shop’s wide range of offerings, from Italian
fashionistos can now be found in abundance strolling the streets of made-to-measure Corneliani suits to high-tech sportswear pieces from
Yorkville. Retailers have responded with enthusiasm, and now offer a Paul & Shark. Zappacosta’s newest addition is Atelier & Repairs, an Italian
huge range of adventurous clothes, accessories and beauty products for label which takes well-worn vintage pieces like Levi’s 501s and elevates
the man who wants to broadcast his contemporary good taste. them with colourful patches and flourishes of decorative embroidery.
“It borrows iconic pieces from around the world and turns them into
At Prada, bestsellers include Linea Rossa, a collection of jackets, pants fashionable staples. We really like what it stands for,” says Zappacosta
and vests in shiny technical nylon. While these pieces are designed to of the brand, which offers its wearers sustainability and stylishness in
stand up to the rigours of America’s Cup yacht racing, they’re much more equal measure.
likely to make a splash on the street. Particularly popular, says the black- Despite the popularity of statement sneakers and nylon jackets among
clad salesman, is the brand’s range of harness bags, which hold valuables Yorkville’s menswear acolytes, the classic suit is not without its place in
strapped to the chest like a fashionable parachute, and belt bags. “People this brave new world, according to John Ferrigamo, a bespoke tailor with
come in asking for them by their model number, 2VL977,” he says, clearly an atelier on Cumberland Street. “I find men are more daring now when
impressed by his customers’ dedication. it comes to suits,” he says. Like the neighbourhood’s other retailers,
Ferrigamo is happy to cater to the new Yorkville man’s colourful tastes,
At the nearby Gucci store, the star of the show is a footwear collec- cutting suits in big stripes and checks, in hues of lavender, plum and
tion, which takes up an entire wall. The classic horse-bit loafer remains, bright blue. “Still,” he adds. “It’s not for everyone. Classic tailoring and
but it is dwarfed by a selection of sandals, slip-ons and sneakers in a styling will always be there.”
Willy Wonka-like array of colours, shapes, textures and styles. Among Indeed, while the pendulum of men’s fashion has swung to the
these is the Flashtrek, a chunky-soled sneaker that looks like a cross extreme of late, the navy blue suit, the white shirt and the polished black
between a hiking boot and something out of science fiction. oxford wait patiently in the wings for their return to centre stage. After
all, if recent decades tell us anything about the clothes we wear, it’s that
Away from the rich hunting grounds of Bloor Street, a smaller but nothing remains out of vogue forever.
equally fascinating ecosystem of fashion flourishes on Yorkville Avenue. By Jeremy Freed
At Off-White, wunderkind designer Virgil Abloh has decorated the store
to look like a forest, complete with fake trees and moss, all the better to
show off his oversized sweaters, paint-spattered jeans and shiny vinyl

12 dinemagazine.ca

John Ferrigamo John Ferrigamo phillip

新約維爾人

美食、趣味、藝術及娛樂。沉悶無味的郊區?在萬錦市,這已成過去。

布魯爾街(Bloor Street)Prada精品店的二 毛衣、濺滿油漆的牛仔褲和閃閃發光的
樓對某一類男性來說是個天堂。 極簡 聚酯纖維棒球帽。在接鄰的街道上,The
主義俱樂部式沙發、毛絨格子地毯和綠 Abnormal Beauty Company專門生產以中
色天鵝絨窗簾,對品味精致、具時代感 性為主的各種各樣護膚產品。對於現代
的男性極具吸引力,就是那些熱愛彩色 時尚男士來說,合適的護膚精華液、日
運動鞋、 誇張首飾,及在網上瀏覽最 常潔面乳和最新時裝系列一樣重要。
新時裝表演的人。
在約維爾村購物中心內,菲利普·扎帕
曾幾何時,加拿大男士在嘗試大膽印花 科斯塔(Philip Zappacosta) 的男士服裝店
和剪裁貼身的衣服上落後於歐洲人,如 Philip,為追求時尚的男士提供更多選
今,在約維爾(Yorkville)的大街上隨處 擇。「我們尊重傳統,亦要追上潮流。
可見時尚達人的身影。時裝店落力地為 」扎帕科斯塔說。他的店子選擇豐富,
那些想展示時尚品味的男士,提供一系 既有Corneliani的意大利度身訂製西服,
列大膽潮服、配飾和美容產品。 也有Paul & Shark的高科技運動服。扎帕
科斯塔的最新系列是意大利品牌Atelier
Prada的暢銷產品包括 Linea Rossa,一 & Repairs ,它將經典古著例如Levi’s 501
組由光亮尼龍質料製成的外衣、褲子和 ,綴以色彩斑爛的補丁和裝飾刺繡。「
背心系列。這個系列雖然是為了抵受美 它借用了世界上不同的經典作品,將之
洲杯帆船賽的嚴格考驗而設計,但穿著 轉化成時尚的主流,我們真的很喜歡它
上街更受注目。一位黑衣售貨員稱他們 的理念。」扎帕科斯塔認為這個品牌,
的背帶包尤其受歡迎,就像時髦的降落 對用家來說是持續性與時尚感並重。
傘一樣將財物綁在胸前,此外是腰包:
「人們進來以它的型號2VL977來查詢 儘管火箭人運動鞋和尼龍長褲在
。」他說,顯然對顧客的擁戴留下深 Dior Yorkville的男性時裝迷中大受歡迎,但
刻印象。
在這個美麗新世界裏,經典套裝並非完
在鄰近的Gucci店,最引人注目的是鞋類系列,佔據了整整一面牆。 全不佔一席位,這話來自約翰·費里加莫(John Ferrigamo),他是坎
經典的馬銜扣樂福鞋仍然存在,但人氣顯然比不上涼鞋、懶人鞋和 伯蘭街上一間西服工作室的定製裁縫,他說:「在穿西裝方面,我
運動鞋的系列,那以不同色彩、形狀、物料和款式構成威利旺卡式 發現現在男士更大膽了。」就像附近其他商店一樣,Ferrigamo也樂
(Willy Wonka-like)的奪目組合。其中一款名為Flashtrek的厚底運動 意迎合新約維爾人的豐富色彩口味,以大條紋和格子裁剪西裝,採
鞋,看起來就像是遠足靴和科幻小說產品的混合體。 用淡紫色、李子色和亮藍色。「然而,這不一定適合所有人,經典
的剪裁和造型永遠存在。」他補充道。

離開布魯爾街上Prada、Gucci、Hermes和Zegna的富豪狩獵場,在 的而且確,當男性時裝走到極端時,海軍藍西裝、白襯衣、黑亮的
約維爾大道上還有一個規模較小但同樣迷人的時裝生態圈。在Off- 牛津鞋仍然耐心地等待回歸時裝舞台的中央,畢竟,最近這幾十年
White裏,年青天才設計師維吉爾·阿布洛(Virgil Abloh)把店子裝飾 告訴我們穿衣的一些道理,那就是——沒有什麼是永遠不會流行
得像個森林,到處都是假樹和苔蘚——為了更好地展示他的超大號 的。

dinemagazine.ca 13

NDai dDioanato
A DESIGNING WOMAN

the construction process. I stand with my foreman, car-
penters, painters and create the space like an art canvas.
I see things, and things come to me. I am outside the box
with all my concepts and approaches. I never conform to
a typical construction method. I am a visual person. Often
my contractor will say, “It’s never been done that way,” and
I answer, “I know, that’s why we’re doing it.”

SW: You have a partner who happens to be your husband.
How do you deal with your creative differences consider-
ing the fact that you are going home together at night?
NDD: We have differences. We are both passionate about
what we do. I learned something right at the start: Nick
is a visionary. He sees things before anyone else, and has
a way of leading and directing. At the onset, he was also
hands on in directing the creative side, but as we worked
together I began to do a lot more. Now he has confidence
in what I can do, and because the company has grown so
much, we’ve taken on different areas of responsibility, so
we don’t really step on each others toes.

➤ CONVERSATION WITH SW: What do you do in your leisure time? PHOTOGRAPHY, LIBERTY GROUP
NDD: I don’t have leisure time. I don’t do lunches or shop-
Sara Waxman: Your formal training is as a graphic designer. Was it a nat- ping. In the morning I have my coffee and do my emails.
ural progression to go from print to interior design? Then about two hours are spent paying all the personal
Nadia Di Donato: Very much so. My print experience expanded when I bills. Then I move on to our site, going to suppliers, meet-
worked for an interior design magazine. I had exposure to that industry. ing people all day that are related to our project. I always fit
Our company grew from two to three dimensions organically. in a pilates session. Evenings, we often have a fundraiser or
an event going on in one of our restaurants. We also have to
SW: What is your role at Liberty Entertainment Group today? be aware of what others in the business are doing. At night, I put my head
NDD: I am Creative Director. What that entails is conceptualization on the pillow and I am out.
and implementation of all of our new projects. My focus is new build-
outs. I oversee all the marketing of our new projects. Our company has SW: What are you working on now?
been growing, so there has always been a new project on the table. We’ve NDD: Right now, its Xango. I want to capture an authentic non-design
opened two new venues each year for the past ten years. look and juxtapose the restaurant with the high design Arcane club that
shares the building. Xango has a separate entrance, but you can also
SW: Spice Route opened in 2008. Walking into that restaurant we were enter from Arcane. We have also purchased eight acres in Prince Edward
saucer-eyed. You had a vision and created a mood evocative of some- County. It has a 12 thousand square-foot old school house on the prop-
where else. There was sensuality and drama. erty. We plan to have a 200-person banquet room and ten bedrooms.
NDD: Before we develop a concept there is a lot of research. We study It will be like an Inn, a destination, a place for special events. It’s a big
what is happening internationally. I don’t design a restaurant using the project, and that makes it a little challenging. We’re now past the permit
trendy materials of the day; I design with the thought of how I want the process, and this will be an exciting and different project for me.
customer to feel. I create a story board from start to finish. What the
space should look like; what food we’ll serve; what the music will sound SW: Where do you see yourself in the future?
like; what the servers will wear. First I create a general, broad imagery NDD: There are always opportunities that present themselves, and we
board of all the concepts. Then I narrow it, massage it into focus. I have will be a lot more selective in what we do. The PEC project is taking us
been working with my team for thirty years, so we have synergy. We start in a new direction. I love designing, Nick loves creating. I don’t think
we’ll ever retire, but our focus will be in an area where we can have a lot
more control.

Nick and I have known each other since we were teenagers. At the end
of the day, our core values are the same, and we still like each other. He
gives me a lot of room to do what I want. Design is very subjective. You
can’t listen to everyone, but the one person whose opinion I really value
is Nick. www.libertygroup.com
By Sara Waxman

14 dinemagazine.ca

libertygroup.com 19 TORONTO STREET | 416.214.5888
donalfonsotoronto.com

Trasformazionale!

It was dark when
we arrived at the
ADLER Spa Resort
DOLOMITI. Too dark
to see the forests
and the Dolomite
mountains, but we
knew they were

out there.

I N THE CLEAR LIGHT OF MORNING, we look through our Sabina Valazza, a local artist, hand-painted the tiles in this extraordinary
windows and see that we are in story-book-land. The green room. We find a special retreat, the Lady Relax area. Bright colours, a rose-
mountains reach through the clouds, and on the slopes, ginger- petal bath of delicate rose fragrance and soft music has an effect that is
bread houses painted pink, blue and yellow dot the landscape, vy- deeply relaxing. In addition, the warm, humid atmosphere leaves my skin
ing with the mountain flowers for prettiness. velvety-soft. This is holistic stress management at its ultimate.

The breakfast buffet is a sumptuous, vast menu come to life, overseen Were I so inclined, I could join an enthusiastic group for Mountain
by charming staff who don’t seem to mind that they have had to wake up Biking, or take advantage of the Mountain Bike School in Ortisei, which
early. Eggs made to order, racks of just-baked breads and buns, meats, offers guided tours and courses. On their return, even those at the mild-
smoked salmon, pancakes and a wonderful variety of fruits and vegeta- est level of ability tell me of the stunning turquoise-blue mountain lakes,
bles. From the dining room windows, we see that a fine mist of rain has glowing red peaks, fascinating rock formations and more.. A fantastic hik-
made everything sparkle, and we can hardly wait to go outside and explore ing program has been created for all levels: Forest bathing, Shinrin-yoku,
the village of Ortesei. is a recognized treatment in Japan to strengthen the immune system,
but the most dramatic is the Full Moon Hiking, where we experience the
Breathe. Just breathe. Inhale the crisp mountain air and the fog of jet- brilliance of the full moon illuminating the famous Dolomite rock face.
lag ebbs away. We pass a tiny church in the square that looks like it was Expert hiking guide, Thaddäus Moroder, takes us for an unforgettable
the model for a child’s toy village. Cafes and restaurants in pretty wooden mountain walk at sundown and night. Authenticity prevails, and dinner
houses are as clean as if they all just had a new coat of paint. Of course is served in a traditional Alpine hut. The hike back to the hotel under a
there is no pollution here. The main industry is wood carving, from life
size figures to tiny adorable apple cheeked urchins beautiful full moon is a magical experience.
and everything in between. One wood carving bou- Dinner in the dining room is white tablecloth,
tique intrigues me, and I walk out with a wooden
clock carved like a lady bug with moving parts. It but informal and easy going. Two chefs, one
makes me smile whenever I look at the time. Alpine and one from Southern Italy do not shirk
their duty to our appetites. Each evening I find a
At the spa, to begin our program, we take a long memorable dish on the menu. Plump pillows of
circular staircase down, down to the Salt Grotto, gnocchi sauced with saffron and tossed with zuc-
the Salt Stone Sauna and subterranean salt lake. In chini and mussels is a luscious appetizer. Another
the grotto, we are surrounded by patterns of light, day there is crunchy arancini from Palermo.
spherical sounds and the interplay of warmth, Entrees show off the kitchens skill with meat
humidity and natural Himalayan salt. The Dead via veal filet with Dijon mustard, tender lamb
Sea salt in the lake also helps to cleanse and regen- shanks with flavourful beer sauce, and traditional
erate our airways and skin. Sitting on a step that grilled steak Fiorentina. The dessert buffet is a
goes down into the subterranean salt lake; rubbing daily changing, stunning gathering of goodies. We
my feet on the dome to detox and increase circu- all like a happy ending.
lation; luxuriating in the ambiance and warmth; I
suddenly start to float away on a current of warm The essence of the Adler Spa can be distilled
salt water! into one word leggerezza (lightness) in an ambi-
ance of luxury, but in an accessible way.
We do our skin and muscles a favour by indulg- www.adler-resorts.com
ing in the flower steam bath in the rock grotto.
By Sara Waxman

16 dinemagazine.ca

The Art of La Cucina Italiana

OVEST | CUCINA E VINERIA

OVEST-TO.COM | 788 King St W, Toronto, ON M5V 1N | (416) 214-6161

Veni Vidi Vici
Food is an endless source of creative inspiration in Venezia.

PLANES, BOATS AND TRAINS have brought us to Venice, at last. asparagus is thinly sliced and comes delicately draped over perfect stalks
of green asparagus. John Dory is treated to a crisp almond crust. Chick-
And here we are, standing in front of the passage to the Peggy Guggen- peas float in a bowl of clear broth with a sprinkle of fresh herbs. Pasta is
heim in the square in front of the magnificent Basilica of S. Maria della Sa- sauced, crumbed and herbed. My favorite dish is sliced fresh scallops,
lute, waiting for a bellman to walk us to the hotel. Yes, it’s minutes away, partnered with zesty green vegetable puree that is jauntily capped with
but previous experience in Venice has taught me that if I make one wrong a spoonful of caviar, and accessorized by four perfect blinis and leaves of
turn I can be lost for hours. In fact, that is one of the charms of this ancient fresh local herbs. It’s the Italian style–classic with surprises.
“walking” city.
“What gives this hotel its unique personality,” I ask GM Paulo Mora.
We are in the heart of the Dorsoduro district, on the side of the Grand “It begins with the ownership,” he says, “SINA is a private, family com-
Canal that is opposite Piazza San Marco. This “artistic” side, with its art pany started in 1958 by Count Ernesto Bocca and now has many hotels,
colleges and university, has long been home to artisans and artist studios each one unique.” He goes on to say, “Our staff is carefully chosen for their
at every turn. professionalism and to have empathy with our guests, and our restaurant
has been named one of the finest in Venice.” Modesty would not let him
The bellman escorts us to the SINA Centurian Palace, opened in 2009 comment that he has had a long and illustrious career in the industry, but
as the first contemporary hotel in Venice. Classic elements have been that is self evident in his ‘hands on’ approach.
incorporated in a warm and elegant manner to create a traditional hotel
with an edge. We enter through a typical flower-filled Venetian courtyard, Breakfast on the terrace that sits on the Grand Canal is like stepping
and are immediately reminded that the Venice Biennale is in full swing. into a photograph we have seen a thousand times. I almost feel it’s a
Sculptures and works by exhibiting artists are much in evidence. dream. Now, we’re on our way to Piazza St. Marco just two short stops
on the vaporetto. Wherever the eye falls, there is something to see–and
This hotel is built in the old 19th century Palazzo Genovese. During buy. It may be my imagination, but it seems the flocks of pigeons that have
excavation, a 7th century stone building was discovered and within it, a made the square their own, have dwindled this year. The magnificent
gold coin depicting Anatoo, a celebrity of the time. The beautiful white Basilica still gleams in the sun. Orchestras dressed in black tie still play
dining room with its sculpted ceiling is aptly named Anatoo. classical music Lavena and Café Florian. We pause at a side street café
for pizza, and marvel once again how Italian food tastes so much better
Diner at Anatoo begins with a sparkling, white peach Bellini, the sig- in Italy.
nature cocktail of Venice. Cin Cin! Clearly the Executive Chef has taken
inspiration from this capital of art, and his dishes resemble paint put to A leisurely stroll and window shopping takes us to Ristorante Antico
canvas, with colours chosen for flavour, texture and design. Fat white Martini which shares the square with the La Fenice Opera House.
The handsome building has expanded since I was here last with a
series of beautifully appointed rooms. Manager, Fulvio Zanella is PHOTOGRAPHY, JFL PHOTOGRAPHY/ADOBE STOCK
known for his charm. We were warned that he would win our hearts.
First, an appetizer of polpettino of veal: dough made by a gentle
hand encasing well seasoned veal. I won’t say no to foie gras, lay-

ered with black truffle and set on the plate with apple puree spiced
with ginger. We agree to share home made fettuccine with duck and
orange sauce and a glass of Soave. We can’t eat another bite, but it’s
too late. Glasses of Cabernet Sauvignon, and a steamer, bursting with
herb and ginger-steamed salmon, sole and sea bass is brought to the
table, all enlivened by a curry/herb sauce.

Next morning, we are on a private water taxi, racing along the
Grand Canal to the airport. Arrivederci Venice. We’ll meet again.
Deborah Edwards, Canadian Representative, Studio ITER,

www.iterweb.it

By Sara Waxman

18 dinemagazine.ca

Our passion for fine food, cooked well
and with love, drives everything we
do at La Fenice. We’re delighted
that you’ve allowed us to share
that with you.
Benvenuti nella nostra
cucina!
-Chef Rocco

lafenice.ca
416-585-2377
@lafenicetoronto 319 King St. West

Coque restaurant

For the Love of Gastronomia en Madrid

D eparting Slovenia with a 9lb trout on her lap, Chef Ana Ros rooms, so we have to completely change the menu.” Nature will always PHOTOGRAPHY, ADAM WAXMAN
went over each step of the cooking demo in her mind until provide the answer. “Take what the season offers,” she shares. Working
mid-flight when the trout’s eyes exploded. But great chefs so close to nature requires a lot of creativity. “Combine the unexpected,
adapt their recipes to those unforeseen moments. The 2019 and don’t be afraid to take risks.” Her aim is to optimize each ingredient,
each product, so nothing is wasted. From the trout that she presented,
Reale Seguros Madrid Fusion & Gastrofestival drew chefs from all and which she named Marta, she and her team created nine original and
over the world to share their techniques, their stories, their knowledge. visually stimulating dishes.

Spain is the world’s high-end specialty food shop. Standing within the Dining in Madrid is a feast for the senses. At Coque each dish reflects
hall of Madridfusion between seminars, I’m lost in an epicurean dream. the delicate intricacies of a kitchen helmed by artists. A whimsical medley
Aisle upon aisle of Jamon Iberico, Cantabrian anchovies, Andalusian cal- of peas, thin crisped-parsley root and Périgord truffles enrobe a golden
amari, Catalonian olive oil, La Rioja wines, sherry, amontillado, oysters yolk for a lively display of beautiful ingredients. A decorative sequence
and black truffles seduce my palate at every turn. What makes the jamon
so delectably addictive? The fat. Jamon of blue fin tuna includes crudo with
carvers tell me the fat is the charm of the piparra peppers, a petite marrow chalice
ham. I gleefully yield to all my temptations. of glazed tuna cheek and caviar, and a
lacquered tuna belly. Each melt-in-your-
The theme of this year’s festival is mouth morsel is more delicious than the
Redeveloping Cooking: Changing the Rules. last. Bottles of Spanish wine are poured
Chef Ferran Adria asserts that we have to for all, but I ask for the magnum of Marques
speak about “quality” not about “natural.” de Riscal Gran Reserva 2005 to stay near
Gastronomic restaurants are only about me. Dining at Santceloni is the height of
200 years old. Before that there were decadence, each course showing off the
only taverns and brothels. The role of flare of a kitchen with the finest ingredi-
the cook has since changed. We have to ents on hand. Marinated mackerel served
re-examine their purpose; and link and with apple jelly, cauliflower and caviar,
share knowledge of cuisines that are is followed by an ox rib salad with spiced
becoming more fair and equitable with sweet potato and red thistle draped in
the environment. Adria shares that his Trout, Chef Ana Ros black truffle. Red prawn, flambéed in
recent project, elBulli 1846, aims to dis- whisky is nourished in a pour over of
rupt the culinary world with new tech- prawn head consommé. Artichokes stand
niques created in labs and workshops. at attention while lavished in a pil pil sauce—an intensely flavourful
Basque specialty. For our cheese course we may select five cheeses
Chef Angel Leon of Aponiente showcases his technique and culinary from a cheese cart offering forty. We each select differently and share,
alchemy with his “live salt” creation. We watch in awe as he pours his while pairing with a plum-y Pintia 2013 Tinta de Toro and a sweet Fondillon
mixture of boiled and cooled table salt, vinegar and calcium over a table 1964 Monastrell.
of deep-sea prawns. On contact the salt solution crystallized, encased the Chefs gravitate to Spain for the best ingredients in the world, to show-
shrimp, and reached a high enough temperature to achieve a complete case them on their own, in tried and true classic recipes, or with newly
cook in mere seconds. developed techniques. As lovers of fine food we are the beneficiaries of
them all. www.spain.info/ca
For Chef Ros, her kitchen at Hiša Franko is a symbiosis of three ele- By Adam Waxman
ments: territory, season and personality of the chef. “Working as we work
is like walking on the edge.” She tells me. “We have to be alert, because
everything changes. If there’s a frost that morning, there are no mush-

20 dinemagazine.ca

libertygroup.com 1 austin terrace | 416.353.4647

bluebloodsteakhouse.com | casaloma.ca

LAtoiPnslaCy abos

There are, in this T HE FAÇADE OF THE VICEROY
small peninsula in Baja IS BONE WHITE, and looms
California, powerful starkly against a brilliant blue sky,
forces of nature at play. shielding the magic inside from
The mountains meet the casual passersby. Inside, I am mesmerized by
desert, the desert meets the vast area of infinity pools and walkways
the ocean, and the Sea that take guests to their rooms or condos in the
of Cortez and Pacific surrounding buildings. We can stroll along the
Ocean meet at the tip. ocean or walk to a mysterious huge pod made
“This is the aquarium of twigs. Canadians will picture a beaver dam.
of the world,” said I follow the walkway and enter El Nido just in
Jacques Cousteau. I’m time for lunch. Sunshine through the twigs cre-
on a sailing excursion to ates a quivering dappled pattern, as if the room
see whales cavort with were alive. Local cuisine is enticing: oysters
their babies. A Korean with a splash of scotch bonnet, ponzu, or lem-
artist has painted the ony sake. I would be remiss if I didn’t indulge
tip of a rock formation in a handmade tortilla with lamb Barbacoa.
in a shiny robe, as if a Sauced with borracha, it ranks as the most de-
monk in prayer. Some licious taco of my life. At breakfast on the patio
tourists climb to the at Casero I virtuously order tropical Bircher
very tip of the highest Meusli with coconut, fruits and almonds, while
rock formation to pose my friend goes all out native with short rib Bir-
for selfies. Don’t step ria chilaquilis with black beans, cheese, sour
backwards! Please! cream and avocado capped by a froth of scram-
bled eggs. Cielomar, the rooftop dining room,
22 extends its reach into the fiery sunset over the
blue sea. Flickering candles and coloured pas-
tel lights of condo terraces illuminate the night.
The show-off dish of gnocchi, chocolata clams,
foie gras and beurre blanc is followed by an-
other spectacular, marinated rye whiskey duck
with amarena cherries. It’s a dizzying display of
flavors worthy of nature’s spectacular backdrop.
www.viceroyhotelsandresorts.com/losc-cabos

The “all inclusive” Le Blanc Spa Resort
ranks as one of the most luxurious of it’s
genre. With a Mayordomo on each floor, even
the most minimal needs are met. Premium
spirits line the bar, and the mini bar is filled
with goodies–all complimentary. Even long
distance calls to Canada, USA and Mexico are
free. Just to check, I immediately phone home.
The hydrotherapy area with its holistic health-
through-water treatment awaits. After a quick

dinemagazine.ca

PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF THE VICEROY(ABOVE); LE BLANC SPA & RESORT (BELOW) shower, a sauna detox, the ice room, another Viceroy Hotel and Resort ACRE
shower and relaxation in the swimming pool- Today we’re going to a farm to have a mixology
size whirlpool. A massage revitalizes me and a a classic, offers a taste thrill in every spoonful. class, a cooking class and lunch. The marble
glass of chlorophyll water refreshes. Energized Fresh local fish is steam-grilled and sauced entrance to Acre leads into a forest of trees
now, I could take in Spanish lessons, Name with a blend of white wine, garlic and chili, and foliage with clearings for a bar, an outdoor
That Tune, Bocciball, Ping-Pong or any number and leaves me breathless. Dessert? Tres leches café, vast gardens and a gorgeous hotel. Some
of activities. There are eight unique restaurants cake with a shot of tequila is a perfect nightcap. farm. At the bar, the mixologist uses ingredients
and six bars to choose from: Blanc Café, Italia, www.lostresgallos.com grown and distilled right on the property, and
Asia, international, Lumiere, Mezze, Ocean, the delicious freshness of the cocktails lulls
Pizza, and afternoon tea in the Lobby Bar. I take EL MIRADOR me into forgetting their potency. My favorite is
a trip around the culinary world and find joy at The path up the hill to El Mirador is lined with Perla de la Baja, a glorious concoction of mescal,
every outpost. vibrant fuschia bougainvillia that gleams in reposada tequilla, pineapple, lime, passion fruit,
www.leblancsparesorts.com/loscabos/en the late day sun. With its pointy thatched roof, verbena, honey and Angostura bitters. Another?
El Mirador looks like the Disney castle of the Yes, thank you. I’m not the one driving today.
LOS TRES GALLOS bad witch. But once inside, with windows
Michel Zermeno has created his cucina artisanal open to sea and sky, the natural, hewn-wood In the café, Chef meets us at the service
Mexicana, as a living legacy to the values and architecture of the room gleams in the brilliant counter. He slaps a 15 lb. yellow tail tuna on
cooking of his mother. Seeking authenticity, we gold/red sunset. The mixologist’s cocktails the counter and whips out his Takeda Japanese
find it here. I look up and see that we are open are a portent of the delectable dishes to come. knife. Off comes the head, which will turn up
to the sky, enclosed in four walls. Rain would Everything on the menu is raised, grown and again in fish stock. With fastidious slicing and
not dare intrude on this scene. Tortilla soup, fished on the property. Proving once again dicing, in minutes we’re presented with tuna
that you can have both a magnificent view crudo, which we’re invited to toss in lime-cured
and exquisite cuisine. green papaya, watermelon, radish and avo-
cado. Chef prepares tuna ceviche, curing it in
citrus, cherry tomatoes and onion, with a side
of burned tomato salsa. Fast food becomes lux-
urious eating. www.acrebaja.com

TODOS SANTOS
Artists have discovered this lovely village and
have made it their own. Silversmiths, weavers,
glass blowers, sculptors, and art galleries line
the streets. Resistance is futile. I purchase silver
earrings and two huge Mexican blankets.

A swing through the bar in Hotel California,
made famous by The Eagles, includes a stroll
through their gift shop crammed with unique
designs in silver. I want to take it all home.

We stroll along, window-shopping to
Patricia Mendoza Gallery, where tonight,
she is hosting a dinner: Art to Table. The art-
ist, and about two-dozen of Los Cabos’ most
prominent citizens are in attendance.
www.todossantos.cc
www.visitloscabos.travel
By Sara Waxman

Le Blanc Spa Resort

for gods eyes only

A journey to Peru to explore the mystery
of the Nazca Lines, seen only from above,

poses more questions than answers

I AM ON A SPEEDBOAT CRASHING OFF WAVES, from the small who dedicated over 50 years to studying why the geoglyphs of Nazca PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF PROMPERU
Peruvian seaside-fishing town of Paracas to the Ballestas Islands, were drawn. Drawings, diagrams, tape measures and pencilled maps
where sea lions, Incan tern, and Humboldt penguins hang out. As hang in her simple bedroom. A mummy with long black hair sits hunched
red-brown hills come into view, a shape, almost like a cactus with in a glass case, tattooed skin still intact. She was never able to solve the
two arms, becomes distinguishable from 20 kilometres away. As we draw mystery. She surmised that they were astronomical calendars or depic-
closer to the shore I see one arm has three bowl shapes on top of each tions of constellations.
other, and the other two have heart-like outlines. The trunk is topped by
what resembles a crown, like a fancy trident. As the boat bobs, we stare up On the side of the Pan American Highway in the middle of nowhere,
at this Candelabra of the Andes, carved 2 metres deep into the hillside and stands an 18 metres, red metal viewing tower, called El Mirador. I give 3 Sol
towering 181 metres high. It’s so clean-cut, it could have been construct- to a man selling dust covered souvenirs and books in various languages,
ed yesterday, but carbon dating of pottery found nearby dates the work and climb the tower. Reiche funded it after countless tourists unknow-
to around 200 BC. Why was it drawn? Did ancient people access it by ingly drove over the geoglyphs trying to find them. So indistinguishable
reed boats, like those still used in the coastal town of Huanchaco, or did are they from the ground, the Pan American Highway, constructed in the
they come over land? And why here, facing out to sea? Was it a directional 1920s before the lines were even discovered, cuts straight through the
marker for the Gods pointing toward something they wanted? figure of a giant lizard. It wasn’t until pilots on routine flights over Peru
in the 1930s made the incredible discovery of these lines crisscrossing the
Days later, after traveling through arid desert and mountains with desert along with intersecting triangles, rectangles and quadrangles—
sparse greenery breaking the monotony, we arrive on the outskirts of the lines that can only be seen from the sky!
dusty town of Nazca, Peru. Our first stop is the Maria Reiche Museum.
Reiche, known as The Lady of the Lines, was a German mathematician From the tower, I look out over the vast desolate terrain. The white
lines are unmistakable, outlining two hands, one with only four fingers,

24 dinemagazine.ca

and to the right, a many-branched tree. These are only two of around sev- has plotted points and then joined them in perfect symmetry. It’s like
enty figures so far found that make up the 50 square kilometres of Nazca viewing a giant colouring book with pictures yet to be coloured.
Lines. How could these massive carvings in the ground be constructed
without any earthly capability to even see them? How did the creators of a thousand lines, figures, and 300 geometric
shapes know what they were doing? Studies suggest they were created
Later, I board a six-seat Cessna 206 out of the main town. Green fields somewhere between AD 445 and AD 605. Many are on the plain with no
yield to desert and hills. The outline of a whale comes into view and a thick hill to climb for a view, or to gain any kind of perspective on what they
white line runs through the middle of it. Why a whale in the middle of a were doing. The size of the figures is phenomenal. The Hummingbird
desert? We fly over narrow triangles stretching into the distance. One is 3 measures 93 metres in length. The Monkey is 90 metres. The Flamingo is
kilometres long. Some have hypothesized that this is an ancient runway! 300 metres.

The flight banks over a hill, and a vaguely human figure with a round Where did the Nazca people see the trees, monkeys, and birds they
head, long legs and a raised right arm appears. It’s called The Astronaut. depicted, that were not native to that area? Did those responsible for
The pilot tells us much smaller versions of it are found on ancient Nazca drawing the aquatic figures once live on the coast, 50 or so kilometres
pottery. Did aliens visit ancient Peru? Was it some sort of God figure that away, to know what whales and fish looked like? Were these offerings or
was worshipped, or did those who consumed hallucinogens during tradi- ancestor worship? Why were they drawn so big? Were they a form of com-
tional rituals dream it up? munication with the gods or alien life forms that could be the only ones to
actually see the carvings in their entirety? As the wind blows across this
The thirty-minute flight takes us over fourteen figures across the Peruvian desert now, there are no answers. Only questions. Only specula-
expanse of white lines resembling veins in the earth. Some, such as The tions. Perhaps all will be revealed one day.
Spider and The Hummingbird, carved into a flat plateau at the top of a hill, By Eleanor Hughes
are easy to make out. Drawn so precisely, they look as if a mathematician

dinemagazine.ca 25

Life in the Mongolian
steppe is one of

the toughest in the
world, but nomadic
herders welcome
guests into their gers

like old friends.

A Nomadic
Welcome in the

Mongolian
Steppe

W E’RE STARTING TO LOSE friend, Eric Cooper, was born and raised on a have left the nomadic life to live in the cities. PHOTOGRAPHY BY BREANNA WILSON
DAYLIGHT. My face is cov- horse farm in Missouri and was riding before Repatriation programs are underway to encour-
ered in a layer of dirt where he could walk. His dream was to race in the age their return. We’re delivering veterinary and
my helmet lets in the brisk air. Mongol Derby, and he fulfilled that dream a few medical supplies as well as lending a helping
My hands are callusing over from gripping the years ago. Now, he is sitting in the sidecar of hand to herders who don’t readily have access to
throttle so tightly, as we dodge potholes and the our motorcycle, a 1980 IMZ Ural. I’m driving. these supplies.
occasional cow or horse. And it’s only day one of We purchased this Russian motorcycle back in
our six-day journey. Ulaanbaatar just for this purpose. It has its fair Serod and his family welcome us with hugs
share of, let’s say, character, but it will get us into and the customary “Sain bana” like we’re friends
Early this morning we left the comfort of the most remote parts of the steppe. Eric and I they haven’t seen in ages. Although this is my
paved roads for the steppe of Erdensant, a tiny are looking everywhere, yelling at each other first time meeting him, I am embraced as part
soum not far from Ulaanbaatar. We’re heading over the engine of the bike, “Where the hell have of the family. Eric has known Serod for years
into hour-nine of today’s ride, and it’s slow these nomadic herders moved to?” thanks to the annual 1000 km Mongol Derby,
going. Racing against the setting sun, we con- the longest and most challenging horse race in
tinue our battle against uneven terrain, the With Eric’s expert navigational skills and the world. The course follows the mail deliv-
occasional stream, rocky hillsides and one too our GPS coordinates we finally spot the ger ery route of Ghengis Khan. It’s a dangerous,
many feral dogs for my liking. We’re heading we’ve been searching for in the distance. We’re demanding adventure, riding semi-wild horses
towards the Mini Gobi where there are no roads, happy to see it settled peacefully just before the across the Mongolian steppe. Only the fearless
no cell phone service and only nomadic families hillside turns into an ominous looking moun- dare apply. (Each year, one or two Canadians are
to rely on. No worries. What can go wrong? tain. We’ve partnered with a Mongolian NGO, accepted to race.) After his quick inspection of
Steppe and Hoof. They offer Native Horse our curious looking motorcycle we’re ushered
I am obsessed with remote destinations and Preservation, Help-A-Herder programs and into their ger without any hesitation. There will
finding the world’s most badass adventures. Veterinary Education programs. Many herders be plenty of time in the next few days to fuss
There are two of us on this exploration. My

26 dinemagazine.ca

over our bike. They find our vintage motorcy- ues to live in the steppe because it’s the only noodle soup. While I have already eaten my
cle as interesting as we find their nomadic way thing he knows. In this unforgiving mountain fill, it is rude to decline food here. Surprise: a
of living--and that is exactly why we brought it world, horses bring security, wealth, transport, bowl of candy is passed around the table, sig-
here. It is our way of creating a connection, since meat and milk. While we see it as a gruelling and nifying an honour to guests. Pulling out all the
we don’t speak each other’s language. remote lifestyle, he’s a jolly man, at one with stops, Serod opens a bottle of Chinggis Gold
the land. At days end, wearing his traditional Vodka, and gracefully pours shot-sized mea-
It’s immediately clear that Serod and his Mongolian deel, we laugh and, using playful sures into a single silver bowl, which he passes
family aren’t your typical nomads. They have a hand gestures, ask questions about each other, to each of his guests until the bottle is empty.
freezer, solar electricity, a TV, car and motor- his horses, and the spread of food his wife sets This signifies it’s time to build camp and go to
cycle. Serod is a legend in this part of Mongolia before us. bed. Tomorrow begins the first of our five days
for his horses. The Mongolian horses have not with the herders.
changed since the time of Ghengis Khan, and She offers us suutei khiitstei tsai, a warm tea
have adapted so completely to the extreme cold made with fresh goat milk from this morning’s We trim the horses’ wild manes, herd cows
that they are a curiosity of science with their milking. Mongolians are lactose intolerant, during the day and goats at night. We even
short, stocky build and extremely long hair that and cannot drink raw mare’s milk until it goes put our veterinary supplies to good use.
must be clipped every spring. During the long through a fermentation process. Classic fist- Immersing ourselves in this family’s culture is
winter, their metabolism drops to preserve sized soup dumplings, or buuz, filled with mut- one of life’s soul-satisfying experiences. Alas
energy. They do not lie down even once during ton and vegetables, are hearty, and followed by we say goodbye and embark on a journey to
the eight-month long winter and are considered a bowl of boorstog, small pieces of dough fried in the Tsataan tribe, the last tribe that herds and
to be in a state of standing hibernation. Serod a wok. Dried cow droppings fuel the stove—yet rides wild reindeer. As they say in Mongolia,
breeds and trains racehorses, and the trophies another way to live off the herd—because trees “Man’s happiness lies in vacant steppes.”
in his ger confirm that he’s one of the best. He do not grow in the high-Arctic Tundra. Our www.steppeandhoof.org
grew up here, horses are his life, and he contin- final course is a soothing bowl of mutton and
By Breanna Wilson

dinemagazine.ca 27

Sara Says:

Where to DINE Now

Xango sophistication, designed by plates of shrimp with fermented on the Amalfi Coast. The history
talented Nadia Di Donato. Sit chili, or octopus with togarashi of hospitality has traversed
It opened without pomp or at the bar, order a cocktail: Full and sweet soy will hike your the continents and is much in
ceremony, indicative of the Brazilian or Everything Nice flavour quotient off the charts. evidence here, when, quite often,
confidence of its creators, two or Smoke and Sunshine and Large plates like Miami Ribs, its chef/owner Ernesto Iaccarino
industry icons, Nick Di Donato peruse a menu that will take you Roasted hen with papas fritas, visits Toronto and adds his
and Claudio Aprile, that this fickle on a gastronomic tour across or a re-introduction to a burger special touches. It is easy to fall
dining out community will love continents. Choose from Nikkei with chimichuri and smoked in love with this cool and elegant
it. And we do. Enter through cuisine, an evolution of Japanese mayonnaise will leave you drunk restaurant and its dual cuisine of
rough board corridors that Peruvian cuisines; Latin dishes with flavour. Go with friends a classic or vegetarian set menu
open to a room of understated that meld with Asian flavours; an and order the entire menu. From and a la carte selections. Dishes
outstanding sushi bar, raw bar where I sit, you won’t be making are served in plates designed
any mistakes. to enhance the beauty of each PHOTOGRAPHY, ADAM WAXMAN
and robata bar. Boquerones, ◗ 461 King St. W; 416-598-4730 offering. Dinner begins with
Tostones, Tempura www.xangotoronto.com fanciful hors d’oeuvres, a teaser
Shishito Peppers, will of the seduction to come: ice
be good choices. Don Alfonso 1890 creamed eel, crowned with caviar
Crispy plantain and accompanied by wild rose
and yucca chips The restaurant is a vision of white scented tagliatelle. Manitoba
with guacamole marble and pale gray walls with Bison comes wrapped in a rustic
and salsa is a white leather chairs and napery. bread crust. Muscovy duck breast
must. Servers are Nadia Di Donato’s design has is sauced with anise demi-glace.
smooth. Signal taken the city’s collective breath Educated servers, and a wise
and they are at away. Expectations are high since sommelier are trained to make
your elbow in this is a sibling of the original 2 our experience even more ➤
seconds. Small star Michelin Don Alfonso 1890

28 dinemagazine.ca

China - Beyond Your Imagination

China National Tourist O ce, Toronto
Tel: 416-599-6636
Toll Free: 1-866-599-6636
www.tourismchina.org

Sara Says: Where to DINE Now

special. And there are more service; and newly added, the steaks stand up well against distinct experience. And, when
spectaculars to come on the a wood-burning grill for steak house fare. Sandra Orgera, certified A5 Kobe beef can be
multi-course set menus. Or, go scintillating steaks. Enter and wife of the late owner, continues sourced, he knows exactly how
up the stairs to the mezzanine be greeted as family–by Rita to bake her special tortes. Family to prepare it. As he engages us
lounge where a snack menu Orgera, daughter of founder, values. Close your eyes and you’ll throughout the meal, improvising
and scintillating cocktails are Louis Orgera. At a white clothed think you’re in Italy. a la minute, he encourages us
presented. This neo-Renaissance table in front of the fireplace, a ◗ 319A King St. W; 416-585-2377 to not use chopsticks, because
building glows in the glamour server with professional manner www.lafenice.ca sushi is a finger food; and while
and opulence it now houses. and intimate knowledge of the there is high quality soy sauce in
◗ 19 Toronto St; 416-214-5888 food and wine being offered Shoushin the restaurant, he does not offer
www.donalfonsotoronto.com caters to us. Antipasti arrives in all it, because he wants us to enjoy
its splendor: Funghi di Bosco of What distinguishes Shoushin is the unique flavour profile of each
La Fenice Shiitake, Portobello and Oyster Chef Jackie Lin’s reverence to his piece of sushi on its own, and not
mushrooms sautéed with fresh craft, his passion for ingredients, have it all taste like soy sauce. In
A downtown restaurant that is herbs; Calamaretti Positano; and his delicate hand in eliciting the theatre of the kappo-style
still a living, breathing entity after luscious Grilled Gamberetti; their optimal qualities. His chef, seamlessly performing
35 years is almost as rare as world heirloom tomatoes and buffalo intimate and artful omakase slender kata-like movements
peace. So what’s the secret of the mozzarella. Carpaccio wears service is unique in Toronto, behind the counter to craft
continued success and popularity jaunty curls of Parmigiano- because he is true to the Edo- beautiful delicacies, we admire
of La Fenice? Authenticity and Regianno. All the classic dishes mae style, but also sources the his virtuosity and his authenticity.
core values: exceptional classic of Italy that we call our own are best ingredients in the world. A ◗ 3328 Yonge St; 416-488-9400
Italian cuisine; professional here: Agnolotti and other pastas variety of delicate sweet uni like www.shoushin.ca
made by knowing hands in the Aka, Bafun, Ensui and Murasaki
kitchen. True renditions of the from the cold waters of Hokkaido Ovest
classics of Italian cuisine delight are in seasonal rotation. He
us: Veal Scallopini, lavished with smokes his blue fin tuna in wheat Authentic Italian cuisine is
Sherry and lemon, and Provimi straw and crowns it with a pinch right at home in this spacious,
Liver with braised pearl onions of grated onion; enlivens spot comfortable restaurant.
and sage are the best in the city. prawn with a dab of sea salt; The experience begins at the
Owner/Chef Rocco Fosco has envelops a morsel of shrimp top, as owner John Tedesco
created a separate Grill Menu and paste with shrimp. Each offering greets every guest with
is accentuated for a completely genuine enthusiasm. Seated ➤

30 dinemagazine.ca

claudio aprile

xangotoronto.com

Sara Says: Where to DINE Now

at polished wood tables, we have and saffron, or short rib and red International celebrities, athletes, Wagyu from Kagoshima, and
a good view of the open kitchen wine, or cuttlefish ragu and black stars of stage and screen, the more cuts like rack of lamb
and spectacular pizza oven, the tiger shrimp. We start with crispy political arena as well as regular and veal chops. Enjoy the full
wall of interesting wines, as well artichokes and mint-infused folks from the neighbourhood experience with a tableside
as the long marble bar at the yogurt, flash fried sardines and a come for celebrations, or just Caesar salad, and end with
entrance. The Ovest style means vibrant salad of seasoned beets because they love the food tableside flaming crepe suzettes.
generous portions of traditional with whipped ricotta and candied and the ambience. Some prefer ◗ 1 Austin Terrace; 416-353-4647
Italian dishes, moderate pricing, pecans. Equally enticing are main the Oak Room with its dazzling www.bluebloodsteakhouse.com
and European service. Here, style courses of baked, whole branzino leather booths, antler chandeliers,
meets substance. The kitchen and chitarrine pasta chock-full and unique portraits of The Cibo
uses year-old sourdough starter of seafood and tossed in arugula Queen at one end of the room
and lets the pizza dough rest pesto. At the end, a freshly made and Prince at the other. In the Everyone’s favourite
four days. There is always a cannoli. This kitchen runs on Bar, the main events are an ice neighbourhood restaurant, with
spectacular risotto di giorno, youthful enthusiasm, integrity, filled raw bar, and a well stocked three locations, covers the city
like braised beef brisket and the desire to get it right. wine and spirits bar. The artwork, with a warm Italian embrace. The
◗ 788 King St. West; 416-214-6161 Dali and Warhol among others, designs follows nature with warm
punctuates the ambience with a elements of wood, stone and
www.ovest-to.com sense of irreverence that sweeps brick. A pasta maker turns out
away any sense of stuffiness. The fresh pasta including spelt and
Blueblood dramatically-lit patio is the most gluten-free, sauced with seafood,
In this most romantic perch in the city. The Bolognese, or pesto to name just
handsome of wine menu comes on a tablet a few. At the fiery open pizza
restaurants, each with geographical notes. Waiters oven, a pizzaiolo tosses dough in
time a guest are educated about the fish and the air and prepares Neapolitan
returns, they fowl on the menu, as well as the pizzas and calzones to order—
experience a merits of beef from Nebraska and there are more than a dozen
rush that comes and Kansas; Canada beef from from which to choose. Turning
from entering Alberta, Ontario, PEI and New to the substantials offered on
a special place, Brunswick; Australian beef; the menu, we are delighted with
Casa Loma. whole grilled Branzino with its ➤

32 dinemagazine.ca



Sara Says: Where to DINE Now

array of local vegetables, and Akira Back shortrib, a recipe from his that race around world cuisines:
beef short ribs that partner with childhood, is another unique dish. Japanese, Morrocan, Chinese,
rich Gorgonzola polenta. The Michelin star chef and world Dining in this luxurious, dramatic Peruvian, and of course, our own
grill master has a fine hand with renowned restaurateur Akira Back room, under a glorious curved Atlantic seafood and oysters. A
chicken and steak. Each location has brought his personal authentic watercolour ceiling, inspired by Peggy’s Cove Lobster Po Boy and
has its own lively bar scene: Korean/modern Japanese style his mother’s art work—whether a glass of Prosecco perhaps? Or
Yorkville is on two levels and has to an enthusiastic clientele: at the bar, the sushi bar, or at a Moroccan cashew- and garlic-
an open patio in summer. Yonge thinly sliced tuna pizza on a booth or table—is a special marinated beef brochettes to
Street has a wine angel who baked tortilla crust; American- dining experience. pair with a more robust cocktail?
swings on a trapeze to retrieve Wagyu tacos; and a selection of ◗ 80 Blue Jays Way; 437-800-5967 A favourite is the mini crispy
your bottle from the glass beautifully presented dishes that www.akirabacktoronto.com eggplant Parmigiano of three
enclosed wine room, and King use exotic ingredients such as crunchy pockets to pair with
Street features a Salumeria. foie gras, caviar and truffles are VIV at the Cosmopolitan wine. A huge wooden board with
Each location has private dining presented in playful ways. Truffle all the fixings for mini Peruvian
rooms for meetings or parties. Bomb croquettes with sweet Reactions to this new restaurant/ Burritos including beef, heirloom
◗ Look for Cibo in Coral Gables, shrimp, sea urchin and caviar lounge are unanimous. Wow!! tomato pico de gallo, Manchego
Miami and South Beach. are flavour highs. Hirami with Proving once again that lighting cheese and lettuce chiffonade to
522 King St. W; 416-504-3939 Serrano peppers and tomatillo is everything, the drama of the fold into tortillas is a conversation
2472 Yonge St; 416-925-0016 soy is unique and tasty. Not to changing colour installation and piece. While shareables abound,
133 Yorkville Ave; 416-925-2143 be missed is the Brother from futuristic design entices us to don’t forget about their classic
www.cibowinebar.com Another Mother roll, made stay in the lounge. Behind the sizzling steaks. As the lounge flows
with two kinds of eel, unagi and bar, multi-screens of VIV TV into the dining room, it is worth a
tempura anago, capped with take us to exotic travel locales. visit just to see the extraordinary
foie gras and drizzled with Ponzu Comfortable in faux snakeskin ceiling décor. Whimsical, playful,
aioli. The principals of traditional chairs, in an airy two story room, and flavour forward, VIV is a hot
sushi, sashimi and maki are not we watch the mixologist create date night destination.
disregarded however, and come cocktails that are as delicious ◗ 8 Colborne St; 416-350-8188
to the table in all their lushness. as their witty names imply. The www.vivatthecosmo.com
Slow-cooked American-Wagyu menu offers a trove of small plates

34 dinemagazine.ca

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“THE DREAM OF conducts us through the class, down low. Well, times to well.” Next to me, a woman is PHOTOGRAPHY, SARA MINNICK, LOVELY’S FIFTY FIFTY (PIZZA)
THE 90S IS ALIVE IN varying the degrees of CBD and have changed. Portland purchasing a Mango Cannabis
PORTLAND.” THC so that we can be present and is so clean and so educated, strain for her migraines.
– Portlandia, “go deeper.” I hold each pose as far beyond what I imagined.
Carrie Brownstein long as I can, before realizing that Our first stop is Home Grown In Portland, possession was
and Fred Armisen I haven’t actually been holding at Apothecary & Dispensary. decriminalized in 1973. Since
all, but have been lying flat on the then, due to the growth of medical
SORRY I’M LATE.” mat eating guacamole and chips. On display is a row of Indica marijuana, a high level of education
I call out to a thick The snack table is a buffet of fresh, to relax, Sativa to uplift, every has developed that does not
cloud as a voice echoes local, and infused-ingredients. hybrid in between, and so many exist as prodigiously anywhere
back, “It’s ok. Everybody’s stoned.” Ideally, the aim is to relax—so I’m different strains that customers else. A vanguard of chefs is also
Stretching onto my yoga mat in good. Deep feelings of calmness are discussing, from their terpenes using cannabis. They are versed
the MaryJane Event Space I fold and presence have washed over me. and flavour profiles to their effects. in terpenes, the aromatic oils of
open a pamphlet to find a selection Now it’s time to get on the Yellow This is how I would be talking cannabis that elicit distinctive
of six joints to smoke during the Pot Bus. about wines and grape varietals. flavors from citrus to mint to pine,
session. Each strain corresponds to “Excuse my ignorance,” I interrupt, as well the quantities and effects
a different sequence. “I want you to High 5 Tours is a veritable “But how does anyone know which of CBD versus THC, and how to
have the experience of being able Canna-bus. Once aboard, I accept one to choose?” “It really depends pair them. For example, limonene,
to feel the effects of the cannabis that heaven is Portland. To be on what someone is fighting in which combats depression and
in your body,” shares Rachel Stern clear, I was once pretty hip, but my their daily life, and what they’re anxiety, is citrusy and bright,
of Heart Shaped Yoga. “And virgin eyes have never seen all this working to correct,” explains the and pairs with dishes of lemon-y
then the effects of the poses in paraphernalia and the variety of bud tender. Sizing me up, she profiles. At Noble Rot, heirloom
your body, and then to notice the options for us to freely consume. reaches for a jar of buds and asks tomatoes grown in the restaurant’s
differences, because that’s part When I was a kid, everybody knew me to smell it. Ahhh... This reminds roof top garden, along with herb
of the discovery, part of the fun.” a guy. His name was Noodles. He me of a summer night in June, lying gnocchi and a basil emulsion ➤
Like an orchestral movement, she wore a trench coat. If you wanted in the grass at a ‘Dead show. “This
5 grams of hydroponic weed, he is the one for you,” She smiles.
had it wrapped in tinfoil to sell you. “It’s called Blue Dream, and if you
He’d get it from someone in BC like the way it smells, and it evokes
who got it from someone in South that kind of memory-sense, then
America. It was all kept on the this is the one you should respond

36 dinemagazine.ca

Jackson-Triggs
Winery
M OST OF cheese sandwich of local
CANADA’S WINE Pairing Wines and Experiences ham and Brie? Pair the
COMES FROM Grand Reserve Entourage
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF JACKSON-TRIGGS WINERY ONTARIO. by a crackling fire. A glass of is to demystify wine and make Sparkling Merlot with beef
With such consistent quality Sparkling Brut is served with every guest comfortable with kabobs, and the Sparkling
to choose from, how do we a white chocolate covered the idea of integrating wine into Grand Reserve Entourage
determine our next glass? We pretzel. Sweet and salt characters meals they already know and Sauvignon Blanc with
have to visit the winery, taste coalesce into a foamy mousse. love. In addition to public and fish tacos. Jackson-Triggs
the wines, and more important, Sticks, marshmallows and graham private tours, and formal lunches Sparkling wines are not
have a wonderful experience crackers are used for making and dinners, we can visit the necessarily for fancy
that we can recall as a frame s’mores in the fireplace while Entourage Room, whose patio occasions; they can be for
of reference for that wine. At enjoying a big, round, buttery offers one of the best views in any day to sparkle. Low
Jackson-Triggs Winery the Grand Reserve Chardonnay. Niagara, and order simple but sugar content and high crisp
aim is to take the intimidation The chocolate elicits caramel beautiful homey foods. We don’t acidity make these wines
out of wine, make it fun, qualities. The fifteen months have to prepare multi-course food friendly.
memorable and educational. oak-aged Grand Reserve Merlot dinners to incorporate wine into
has hints of cocoa that lend itself our everyday. Here we indulge In summer, the
Each season offers exciting to a 75% Dark chocolate pairing in share boards of local cheese amphitheatre in the
and romantic experiences to that evokes raspberry, cassis and and charcuterie; hummus and vineyards of Jackson-Triggs
share with friends at Jackson- warm chocolate in your mouth. tapenades, and country grilled estate has become a hot
Triggs. Passport programs For dessert, Cabernet Franc cheese. venue for touring acts,
like Taste the Season in fall Icewine chocolate truffles sing of making the Summer Concert
celebrate the bounty of the chocolate covered cherries. What could pair better with Series one of Canada’s great
season paired with holiday- a Grand Reserve Entourage experiences. Sinking into a
inspired food. Days of Wine The goal at Jackson-Triggs Sparkling Brut than a grilled sumptuous glass of Riesling
and Chocolate helps us Icewine that bursts with
through the winter with warm lychees and peaches, while
weekends in which to explore munching on a bag of freshly
sweet and savoury pairings popped corn, and transfixed
of wine and chocolate. The on the mellifluous ballads of
renowned Ice Wine Festival Sarah McLachlan is simply
enables us to celebrate a beautiful experience. The
all things Icewine, and to barrel cellar dinner before
appreciate that it’s not merely the concert reflects what is
about sweetness, but about all growing in Niagara. Jackson-
the savoury pairings to enjoy. Triggs works with farmers
The New Vintage Festival to incorporate farm fresh
showcases all that’s new for produce into the menu. We
the coming year. In between, are greeted with a glass of
countless pop up ideas offer Entourage Sparkling Brut,
experiences that fit whatever slightly pink with lingering
we’re looking for. fruit, zest and minerality.
Local cheese and charcuterie
Savour the Sights is a are artfully presented with
progressive dining experience house-made preserves, and
through the most picturesque followed by an amuse bouche
locations of the winery. We and a three-course dinner. This
begin with sparkling wines and multi-course, multi-pairing
hors d’oeuvres in The Great Hall, extravaganza shows off how the
and then progress to the atrium chef and winemaker harmonize
for a million dollar view of the to share their passion for pairings.
vineyard. In the Entourage room So much of wine enjoyment
we enjoy two more courses, is connected with our sense of
before heading down to the smell. The bouquet in the swirl of
barrel cellar for our main course, a glass seduces us. Our olfactory
and returning to the boutique for memory is our strongest
desserts. Wine pairings with each memory sense, and the one from
course inspire our imaginations as which we can most easily recall
much as our palates. experiences. When it comes
to choosing a wine, there is no
A new program called Fireside substitute for the experience of
Wine & Chocolate offers four visiting the winery and creating
different wines to pair with unique visceral and romantic
artisanal chocolates from Belfry memories for a lifetime.
Chocolates. Learn why they pair www.jacksontriggswinery.com
well together while lounging
on couches and comfy chairs

SPONSORED

also sourced from the garden or vegan chocolate are decadent cravings and making taste Bar + Restaurant at SE Wine
accompany a pork shoulder bites containing 10mg of THC. Her buds dance, Portland’s got the Collective, an incubator for up
smoked in apple and cherry wood. Morning Blend Granola contains boogie. Renowned for its Food and coming local wines, offers
As a side dish, the chef proudly 120mg of CBD. Dosing and potency Pods, every cuisine imaginable a choose-your-own-adventure
presents his Kimchibd—kimchi are listed, and quality control is occupies abandoned nooks to list of pairings with a vegetable-
that is fermented with a water- strict. We purchase a few fruity nut become community hubs of driven menu. Chef Althea Grey
soluble CBD isolate—one gram per bars for our hike through the trails really good food. At The Bite Potter makes vegetables cool. Her
pound—sprinkled with hemp and of Forest Park. Vegan and gluten- on Belmont we share Hawaiian smoked carrot hummus with mint,
sesame seeds, drizzled in rosemary free, they’re chock full of cashews, Korean Bulgogi from Namu, along almonds and olives, paired with
oil and mixed with puffed wild dates, bananas, chocolate and with some Viking Soul Food Division Wines Chardonnay, and
rice. Its initial kick is followed by a crispy brown rice with a 1:1 of saffron chowder with lemon green garlic and pine nut pesto
gradual pleasing buzz. ratio of 25mg THC to 25mg CBD. cod and mussels. There is always risotto with a sous vide egg, paired
For the calorie and cannabis- something innovative in the with a Laelaps Wines Riesling offer
Down the street hotel Jupiter conscious, the bar is sectioned restaurant scene too. At Lovely’s a quintessential taste of Oregon,
Next is modern and hip, but to let us know exactly how much Fifty Fifty, sungold tomato confit both through the vibrancy of
cozy. Entering Hey Love, the we’re consuming. with shaved summer squash, basil, ingredients and the exuberance
1970s-inspired cocktail bar on orange agrumato and flowers in attitude.
the main floor, feels as though I’m Got the munchies? When resembles a potpourri. Oui Wine
back in college and staying at the it comes to satisfying food Whether foie gras dumplings ➤
coolest residence, where everyone
wants to be.

On an afternoon cannabis tour
with Cordilleran Tours we visit
a glass blowing studio to see how
pipes are made. In the workshop
of Oracle Glass Inc. an octopus, a
cross bow and intricate molecular
designs are being set. It can take
anywhere from minutes to months
to make these artful ornaments
that range in size from a finger to
a tuba, and can cost thousands
of dollars. They are beautiful,
whether in use or on display. Next
stop is Laurie + MaryJane, where
Laurie Wolf, part Mother Nature,
part Willy Wonka, and three-time
Dope Cup Winner, leads us through
her handcrafted cannabis edibles
production. “One truffle will get
you high.” She cautions, halting
me from grabbing one. Not your
average bake-sale, Wolf’s aim
is to “elevate the edible.” Warm
pop-in-your-mouth cookies of
ginger molasses, peanut butter,

38 dinemagazine.ca

S EATED ON THE Two Sisters winemaker, Adam Pearce.
PATIO AT TWO Vineyards “Such quality allows me to
SISTERS VINEYARDS fully express what our cool
we could be forgiven Sharing passion for Italian food, climate region can produce
for thinking we’ve been wine and culture while respecting each variety’s
transported to Tuscany. A character. Our ultra-modern
NATASCHIA WIELINK PHOTOGRAPHY congenial atmosphere of joie the farfalle and braised lamb that we would have otherwise production facility, innovative
de vivre is infectious, and we with ricotta, saffron raisins and not known. fermentation equipment and
are content to stay all day fresh mint. This is a kitchen that a first-class French oak barrel
as though we’re meant to be takes chances and pushes the “Meticulous vineyard program absolutely spoils me
nowhere else but right here. boundaries so that we can taste practices including cropping for as winemaker.”
This is the quintessential gorgeous flavour combinations low yields has privileged me
wine experience we seek: the with exceptional fruit.” Shares While we play mix and
romance, the architecture, the match between the wines and
food and the wine. the dishes, there’s really no
wrong answer, because these
The stage has been set as wines have such aplomb, and
we open the menu of onsite are so elegant and drinkable,
restaurant, Kitchen76. What and each recipe seems to
better way to get to know a make room for them.
wine, than by pairing it with
such an inspired menu by Chef A chorus of ingredients
Christine Mast. sing in our dessert of beignets
with pistachio cream and
Artichokes stand like orange syrup that we pair
golden sunflowers, delicately with a Riesling Icewine for
crisped, splashed with lemon delightful decadence. As
and sprinkled with Parmigiano- we look out over the lush
Reggiano. Luscious textures vineyard beyond the Ionic
that pair beautifully with the pillars, we see guests dining
soft strawberry essence of the there too, lazing on lawn
Sparkling Rosé, as well as the chairs with the sounds of
tropical grapefruit bouquet of Billie Holliday in the gentle
the Sauvignon Blanc. Tenderly breeze.
grilled and charred octopus,
brined in red wine and spiked Two Sisters also offers
with chilli cuts perfectly, and programs like Explore the
the accompanying crunchy Grape, which includes
potatoes are addictive. private structured tastings
What’s the secret? I ask the of three wines with a wine
chef. “Training.” I’m told. The consultant. The Stone Eagle
octopus and the Eleventh Experience, which introduces
Post were simply made for the premier Stone Eagle
each other. This is a sexy wines, the art of both barrel
blend of Cab Sauv, Can aging and blending wines,
Franc and Merlot with velvet and includes six wine tastings,
tannins and intense perfume as well as food pairings to
of blackberries, cassis and highlight the interaction
vanilla. These dishes, like their between food characteristics
accompanying wines, stand and grape varietals. The
alone, and yet they are so Twilight Experience offers
versatile, that their pairings a picturesque evening stroll
only lift their flavour profiles through the vineyard while
to even more enjoyable enjoying wine, and concluding
heights. at the estate pond for
an Italian-inspired picnic
Squid ink capellini is spun prepared by Kitchen76.
with spicy nduja sausage and
white wine, and set between For the two sisters, Angela
pristine clams. This is luxurious and Melissa, “Two Sisters is
on the palate. Each ingredient an extension of our family
enhances the whole. The Riesling, home and we do all that we
refreshing and elegant, with can to be sure our guests feel
it’s notes of vanilla and lemon comfortable and welcome…
meringue, balances it all, and for the little moments and the
is also a spot-on pairing with special occasions.”
www.twosistersvineyards.com

SPONSORED

with strawberry molé at Canard or Water Avenue Coffee. Cupping
foie gras profiteroles with caramel coffee at Coava Coffee Roasters
sauce at Le Pigeon, Chef Gabriel reveals more than how the coffee
Rucker proves that if you’ve got it, tastes at the end, but also the
flaunt it. Chefs love Portland for its balance and summation of the
bounty of fresh produce, world- sweetness, acidity and body in each
class wine region and proliferation mouthful. It seems that everything
of craft breweries. They head to trickled down from Seattle to
the Portland Farmers Market to create this mecca of speciality
get noticed, build their menus or coffee. There is such reverence to
build up for their own brick and maintain quality that is unheard
mortar. “Have you been foraging of in other cities. The proof is in
lately?” I hear one market goer the cup. Steven Smith Teamaker
ask another. “Ya. I’m working on a is the temple of quality tea in
new collabo right now actually. You Portland. Seated at the counter,
should check it out.” It’s a hotbed a menu of teas and flights are
of activity that encapsulates presented, including aromatic tea
Portland’s DIY spirit. and scented chocolate pairings.
Ecuador Balau chocolate is scented
Across town, the with Masala Chai; Madagascar
neighbourhood motto of the Sambirano chocolate with Big
Central Eastside Industrial District Hibiscus; and Ecuadorian Peruvian
is “Community not Competition.” chocolate with Peppermint. The
From day to night markets, chefs results change the complexion
and muralists alike gravitate here. of the chocolate and tea, infusing
A tour with The Big Foody leads us complex aromatics in the
through old warehouses revitalized chocolates, and richer nuances in
with a cultural makeover. New the teas. The mixing and matching
Deal Distillery’s vodka is made is a fascinating experiment that we
with Oregon wheat and charcoal indulge with every smooth sip.
filtered for purity of water with a
true taste of terroir. This isn’t the There is a lot of knowledge
typical clean spirit. It’s like a record about artisanal chocolate at a local
with a bit of scratch in it. Cascara level, with more chocolate makers
liqueur, made from the cherry, or in Portland than in San Francisco,
the husk of the coffee bean, is a LA and Chicago combined. The
palate opener and conversation chocolate library at Cacao displays
starter made in collaboration with bars from all over the world
including Singapore, Vietnam,
40 Philippines, France and Canada.
High-end chocolate bars like
Shrimp and Bonito, Sour Dough and
Olive Oil, and Foie Gras pique my
curiousity. The selection of hot
chocolate, rich and complex, makes
my knees weak. Each square bar of
Cloud Forest chocolate is a frame
of a personal experience, a haiku,
an abstract image of a memory, like
Miso Truffle, inspired by a walk in
Forest Park. Goma, a grey chocolate
with black sesame and goma dofu,
and Bee Chocolate with local bee
pollen are delicate and innovative
without peer.

Whatever the passion, hobbies
are a high priority in Portland.
Whether for cannabis, wine, beer,
coffee, tea or chocolate, if you want
to geek-out on something, there
is a community here that will get
behind it and support you. It’s a
laid back funky vibe with an aim to
live well. As the song in Portlandia
goes, “Portland is a city where
young people go to retire.” For
the rest, we can still visit…and
dream.
www.travelportland.com
By Adam Waxman

dinemagazine.ca

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TORONTO DOWNTOWN MARKHAM TORONTO AIRPORT

HILTON HOTEL MARRIOTT HOTEL IN FRONT OF HOLIDAY INN

145 RICHMOND STREET 170 ENTERPRISE BLVD 970 DIXON RD.
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THIS IS HOW IT’S DONE.SM

RUTHSCHRIS.CA

BBBTAHIEBLRETLBEECUE

From asado to smokehouse where he cured and with dry spice rub and no sauce and includes red slaw—coleslaw
yakiniku there are smoked his own Virginia ham, -- for which the state is most that contains ketchup instead
a myriad styles and and held 3-day barbecues. Sauce known. This barbeque technique of mayonnaise. Central North
methods of barbecue is thickened with ketchup, spiced comes from the plantations in the Carolina uses a yellow, mustard-
around the world, but with mustard, and made tart with Delta where slaves who had been based sauce with vinegar and
in the United States vinegar. Pork shoulders, pork ribs, working in the fields creatively brown sugar. Eastern North
alone, it varies from chicken and beef are hickory or figured out that the best way to Carolina sauce is cider vinegar-
state to state. The rich oak-smoked. In the western region prepare the less desirable cuts of and pepper-based, without using
history of barbecue that would become West Virginia, meat was to rub it with salt and any tomato, and comes with a
across the U.S. charcoal from the coalmines was spice and cook it slowly at a lower side of vinegar slaw. Its spicy and
reflects landscapes, preferred. Increasingly popular is temperature. The great debate at acidic African flavour profiles
ethnic influences and wild game and, along the coastal the World Championship Barbeque include cayenne, black and red
social conditions. oyster trail, barbecued oysters. Cooking Contest in Memphis is: peppers. More tart than sweet, it
From Baltimore and • Merroir, Topping. Oysters “Wet or Dry?” Jack Daniels can be is absorbed into the meat and cuts
Buffalo, to Alaska and are roasted with herb butter a key ingredient in tomato-based the fat. This is the mother of all
Hawaii there is pride and Edwards Virginia ham, or barbecue sauce, and in whisky American barbecue sauces.
in local specialties, barbequed with bourbon barrel chips used for smoking. • Skylight Inn, Ayden. True to its
but it’s the pit masters and chipotle. • The two pillars of Memphis classic roots, the menu of chopped
of the south that barbeque are Central BBQ and meat is straightforward: pig or
we look to for lip- ★ KENTUCKY Rendezvous. Try both! yard bird.
smacking inspiration.
Here is a basic primer Known for fried chicken, hot ★NORTH CAROLINA ★SOUTH CAROLINA
of differences in this browns and bourbon, the most
tantalizing cultural distinctive claim that Kentuckians Traditional “Pig Pickings” Many states claim to be “The
institution across the have to barbecue is mutton, basted consisted of whole hogs smoked Birthplace of Barbecue.”
southern U.S. and smoked over hickory, served over charcoal and hardwood. South Carolinians are proud of
with a Worcestershire sauce-based Today, pork shoulder is the their tradition that dates back
★ VIRGINIA dip with vinegar, black pepper and dominant choice. Western the farthest, to the Spanish
allspice, and a side order of Burgoo North Carolina is known for its colonialists who discovered the
Colonial diaries reveal that stew of meats and vegetables. peppery “red” sauce of ketchup, open pit cooking of the natives on
American barbecue began in • Moonlite Bar-B-Q Inn, vinegar and various spices. The the islands off the coast of South
Virginia, and involved hogs Owensboro. Renowned for its introduction of Heinz ketchup Carolina. Traditionally, this is
roasted over pits of smoky wooden smoked meats including chicken, into barbecue sauce in 1876 the only state that includes all
embers. Early settlers learned beef, pork and mutton, and its became known as the "Lexington four recognized barbecue sauces:
how to salt-cure and smoke their lunch and dinner buffets. Dip." Lexington bills itself as mustard-based, vinegar-based,
ham from the natives making "The Barbecue Capital of the and light and heavy tomato-based,
Smithfield “The Ham Capital of ★ TENNESSEE World" boasting at least one but it’s the mustard-based sauce
The World.” President George BBQ restaurant for every 1,000 for which it is most known.
Washington even had his own Tennessee is home to Nashville residents. A "Lexington Barbecue German immigrants between
Hot Chicken and Memphis Dry Sandwich" is hickory-smoked Columbia and Charleston
Rub. It’s the dry rub -- ribs crusted

42 dinemagazine.ca

introduced this that can lend popular meat, and spices were for smoking are oak and mesquite.
“Carolina Gold”, the sauce a used for flavour and preservation. Tulsa is home to the renowned
diluted with vinegar more tropical When Edmund Mcllhenny was Hasty-Bake Charcoal Oven.
and kicked up with sugar accent. given some pepper seeds from • Albert G’s, (Harvard) Tulsa.
and spice. South Carolina’s Low • Caspers BBQ, Mexico, he mashed them with Angus beef brisket, Oklahoma
Country cuisine also includes Kenneth City. Locals salt, added vinegar, aged it, and classics, special seasoning and
oysters roasted over a wood fire swear by the smoked introduced the world to Tabasco deep smoke.
grill and served with butter and brisket, smoked salmon and sauce. In areas where open
hot sauce. smoked mullet. fires were prohibited, a cypress ★ ARKANSAS
• Rodney Scott's BBQ, roasting box with a steel lid, called
Charleston. Slow smoked ribs, ★ ALABAMA a Cajun Microwave, was designed Not known for one particular
chicken, turkey and steaks are to slow cook large pieces of meat, style, it’s the variety and the rich
meaty, smoky and bold. Cuisine in Alabama is simple and like small pigs, turkeys, chickens, history that distinguish this state.
honest. From pecan-infused pork deer, lamb, beef or whatever else Barbecue arrived with the first
★ GEORGIA shoulder in the south to white was available. settlers. Between the Mississippi
sauced chicken in the north, • Johnson's Boucaniere, Valley and the Ozark Mountains,
Georgia barbecue is typically barbecue brings Alabamans Lafayatte. Sells chicken and the Natives, African Americans,
a red tomato-based sauce of together. Typically, pork is pulled sausage gumbo by the gallon, and Europeans, and neighbouring
varying sweetness, heat, and or chopped and sliced between tangy in-house smoked brisket. states have all influenced Arkansas
thickness. Typically pork, smoked fluffy buns and topped with • Bourgeois Meat Market, barbecue and the sides that go with
with hickory or pecan, is sliced, coleslaw. But, it’s the signature Thibodaux. Sells whole pigs it, from okra to grits, all washed
chopped or shredded on bread. sauce that distinguishes this state. for roasting; and Cajun beef down with sweet tea. Within the
The sauce can be mustard, tomato Hickory-smoked chicken is soaked jerky—strips of seasoned-steak mix, each corner of the state has
or vinegar-based, or a blend of all in that legendary white sauce of marinated for 24 hours and its own long running barbecue
three. Georgian specialties mayonnaise, apple cider vinegar, smoked all day. institution that is quintessentially
include barbecued ham. Another lemon juice, black pepper, and and authentically deep smoky and
specialty is a side dish of a hearty salt created by Big Bob Gibson ★ TEXAS southern.
bowl of Brunswick stew. Georgia back in 1925. • Jones Bar-B-Q Diner, Marianna.
is also home of the Big Green Egg • Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q, In the world of barbecue, you It's the oldest restaurant in
kamado cooker. Decatur. Home of the original BBQ really can’t mess with Texas. Arkansas, and frequently lauded
• Southern Soul Barbeque, St. White Sauce. German immigrants introduced as the best barbecue in the state.
Simons Island. Georgia institution sausage making, Mexicans brought There’s only one item on the menu:
serving oak-smoked meats. ★ MISSISSIPPI the spices for flavouring, and chopped pork, and it’s usually sold
the smoke pit style came from out by mid morning.
★ FLORIDA This is the home of gas station African traditions. In Eastern
barbecues and more award Texas, beef is marinated in a sweet ★ MISSOURI
The first barbeque in the American winning pit masters than any tomato-base and slow-cooked
colonies was the work of French other state. Hickory or pecan over hickory until it falls of the Kansas City has been a centre for
Huguenots who cooked up a menu wood is burned in welded trailer bone. It is chopped, not sliced, and meatpacking, and is consequently
of alligator, snakes and dog. Times rigs, block pits, or stoves, and heaped on a bun. In Central Texas, renowned for its variety of
have changed. Today, the specialty pork, chicken, whole goat or beef the beef is rubbed with spices, barbecue, in particular burnt
in the Keys is smoked wahoo and are slow cooked with Memphis dry lathered in a thin, unsweetened ends and brisket, but also the
other game fish. Terra Ceia Island rub or Carolina-inspired vinegar sauce, and cooked using indirect range of pulled pork, ribs, smoked
hosts an annual smoked mullet sauce. While Mississippi doesn’t heat from pecan or oak. West sausages, smoked and grilled
festival. A Mullet Smoker, made garner the same attention for Texas employs a “cowboy style” chicken, turkey and even fish. This
from an oil drum with its bottom barbecue as neighbouring states, of cooking directly over mesquite. is a melting pot of barbecue. There
removed, is placed over a fire on side-of-the-road smokehouses South Texans prefer medium thick are well over 100 BBQ restaurants
the beach. In Miami, the Cuban perfume the air and seduce the sauces, seasoned with cumin and in Kansas City alone. Their style
influence is reflected in dishes senses like no other. One night chili rather than tomato and sugar. is hickory-smoked meats lathered
like roasted pig cooked inside an listening to live blues in Clarksdale In South Texas is a tradition of in a dark, thick, sweet, spicy and
aluminium-lined plywood China goes hand in hand with a massive barbacoa in which the cow head is tangy tomato-based sauce with
Box and served with a sour orange roadside smoked turkey leg. wrapped in maguey leaves, buried molasses and liquid smoke.
sauce scented with cumin and • Abe’s Bar-B-Q, Clarksdale. in a pit with hot coals and then • Jack Stack Barbecue, Kansas
garlic. The Florida style can also Serving pecan-smoked pork pulled for tacos. City. Hand-cut meats, like
included local fruit and peppers since 1924. • Franklin Barbecue, Austin. prime-beef short ribs, are slow-
This is the mecca of brisket. Order roasted over Ozark hickory in
★ LOUISIANA everything. This pitmaster has it old-fashioned brick ovens.
down to a science. By Adam Waxman
Cajun spices immediately
spring to mind, and yet the ★ OKLAHOMA
most important Louisianan
contribution to barbecue is “hot While the official state meal
sauce” made from Tabasco or includes chicken fried steak,
Cayenne peppers and vinegar. Oklahoma also boasts two distinct
Historically, the terrain was barbecue dishes: chicken that is
difficult and settlers would cook smoked, fried and seasoned; and
whatever animals they could find. barbecued bologna, also known
Pork was traditionally the most as “Oklahoma prime rib”. There
are a variety of meats and styles
for barbecuing in Oklahoma
and the preferred woods

dinemagazine.ca 43

Our Love Affair

MiamiWith ➳
I t is clear why Miami loves Canadians, but
why do Canadians love Miami? In the city Come with an open mind Lowes Miami Beach
of Miami, 7,072,439 hotel rooms have been and stretch your sensibilities.
sold from January to May 2019. Even as far www. pamm.org ognized artists. It provides a platform for the
most innovative art of our time and plays a role
back as 2016, the spend-per-year of the 3.5 mil- › The Bass Museum of Art features in developing cultural literacy throughout the
lion Canadian visitors was $6.5 billion dollars. diverse art, artifacts, a sculpture garden, plus region. Admission is always free. Leave your
We make up 25% of the international visitors films and lectures. The City of Miami accepted pre-conceived notions about art at the door
and 9% of purchasers of properties. Wow. a gift of baroque and renaissance works of art before you enter. www. icamiami.org
from John and Joanna Bass, and in due course,
Miami, how do I love thee? Let me count the Museum opened. The architecture and the In many major cities of the world, there is
the ways. collections give this building a personality of it’s the phenomenon of the Umbrella Sky, an inter-
own. www. thebass.org national art installation that has popped up in
Like most of us, as soon as the snow flies, I Lisbon, Paris and now Coral Gables. Walk along
answer the siren call of the sun, sand and sea. › Patricia and Philipp Frost Museum of the promenade under these swaying colorful
And every year, no matter what part of Miami Science does not tell us, it shows us the core umbrellas and feel protected and happy. We’re
I visit, there are new and exciting things to do: science behind living systems, the solar system inclined to pop into Threefold Café for a spar-
art and culture, new dining experiences, walks and known universe, the physics of flight, light kling Mimosa cocktail.
along the beach, and for adventurers, there is and lasers, the biology of the human body and
no limit to outdoor water sports. much more. We leave feeling better about our HOTELS
world and the humanity in it. www. miamisci.org
Miami is one place where it’s › Lowes Miami Hotel was built in 1998, and
worthwhile to wake up early. › Institute of Contemporary Art is where we now, with a $50 million makeover, the entire
see the work of emerging, local and under-rec- hotel has been re-imagined to even more fabu-
ART GALLERIES lousness than the original. We’re greeted with
AND PUBLIC ART enthusiasm, staff remembers our names and
can answer every question. We’ve never felt
› It’s been recommended that we more pampered and cared for, lounging on a ➤
include at least a “drive-by” of the
Wynwood District and Wynwood
Walls. Within minutes, we let the driver
go as we began a stroll through a neighbor-
hood where the world's greatest artists working
in the graffiti and street art genre show their
brilliance. We see murals by artists like RETNA,
Ron English, Aiko, NUNCA and so many more.
Our “drive-by” turns into most of the day. This
is another world with ever expanding “walls”,
ones we have never seen the likes of before.
There are restaurants galore and outdoor cafes
offering prime people-watching. Wynwood
Walls must not be missed.
www.thewynwoodwalls.com

› Pérez Art Museum Miami is a modern and
contemporary art museum dedicated to col-
lecting and exhibiting international art of the
20th and 21st centuries. Contemporary art
installations may intrigue you or may have you
saying, “What in the heck is this all about?”

44 dinemagazine.ca

libertygroup.com 1 austin terrace | 416.353.4647

bluebloodsteakhouse.com | casaloma.ca

Preston's at Lowes, breakfast
poached eggs on avocado
toast and fruit.

daybed, enjoying lunch opportunity, I like to The Biltmore
and cocktails in the St. Tro- order dishes that are in Coral Gables
pez inspired, adults only, new to me. An art-
SOAK cabana with butler fully folded French to the order with selections from U.S. coast to
service. www.loewshotels. crepe filled with well coast, and conclude with a warm lobster roll and
com/miami-beach seasoned braised fries—American cuisine at its freshest.
oxtail, spinach, leeks www.mignonettemiami.com
My favorite meal of the and natural juice,
day is breakfast. The menu followed by the local › Sette Osteria in the Wynwood District is
at Prestons quickens my Corvina, enriched with creamy lobster polenta hard to miss. It’s on the corner painted in zebra
pulse. Florida spiny lobster and tangy with Single Malt sauce. Dessert stripes and fits right into the neighborhood.
eggs Benedict; avocado can’t get much better than Macaroon tart with The bartender mixes a mean cocktail, and in the
toast capped by perfect Pineapple compote, Mango Sauce and Coco- American style, there are no skimpy pours. I’m
poached eggs; fruits deli- nut cream. But it ain’t over ‘till it’s over. The happy with the focaccia straight from the pizza
ciously in season; and baked goods sparkling eye-popping selection of petit fours tells me that oven and a drizzle of EVOO. Insalata Caponata
with just-out-of-the-oven freshness. I am ready this pasty chef dreams in all the colours of the Napoletano with its assorted heirloom toma-
for come what may. rainbow. It is worth the drive to Coral Gables. toes is a treat. The chef works his magic with the
humble eggplant in Melanzane alla Parmegiana.
We’re back for dinner at Bar Collins, in an › Marriott Stanton Hotel, with a small front- And take note: they offer a white pizza menu and
expansive arm of the lobby. Recently completed age to the street, is an easy gem to miss. A rarity, a kid’s menu. www.setteosteria.com
with cutting edge design, here is where we find step away from the lovely pool with its palm tree
an explosion of the new Miami Cuisine. Latin landscaped terrace and lounge, and in seconds › No.3 Social is the one and only rooftop bar
and Cuban flavours course through the menu. you are on the beach. We begin and end our day and lounge in Wynwood. Survey the district
We try a chicken empanada with Poblano Citrus at Lolo’s Surf Cantina, where guests and locals and beyond while enjoying signature cocktails
Crema and a succulent Cuban sandwich that appreciate that they take casual dining all the or locally crafted beer. Renowned Chef Norman
becomes a made before your eyes encrusted way. www.marriottstantonsouthbeach.com Van Aken has incorporated Miami delicacies
Cuban pizza in the gorgeous pizza oven. A local into his menu of street food from around the
Cobia comes with lemon dill beurre blanc. The main restaurant serves Japanese cui- world. Inquire about his cooking school and
Chipotle Citrus chicken is piqued with orange sine. At Azabu it is clear to someone who has have a hands-on demo at his Three Restaurant.
agrumento. These are the flavours of Miami: travelled to Japan that here, Executive Chef Foodies can always learn something new.
colorful, exciting and exotic. Masatsugu Kubo pays homage to the American www.no3social.com
appetite. He defies the usual limitations on clas-
› The Biltmore Hotel is a national historic sic Japanese cuisine by offering large portions › Upland in the south of Fifth neighborhood
landmark, but don’t be fooled by the stately of Tokyo comfort food at reasonable prices. No is an outpost of the popular NYC restaurant
Spanish, Moorish, Italian architecture and one leaves hungry from Azabu. created by owner Stephen Starr and chef Justin
handsome early 1900s lobby. The inner work- Smillie. This chef, a semi-finalist in the James
ings of this hotel are cutting edge. The 71-par DINE AROUND THE DISTRICTS Beard Best Chef in New York, has been her-
championship golf course and tennis courts are alded as a pasta savant. I am not one to gush
renowned, and the beautiful pool is the largest › Versailles restaurant is the oldest Cuban over pizza, but the Sausage and Kale pizza with
to exist in a hotel in the eastern U.S. Rooms are restaurant on these streets, and as such it has young pecorino, stracciatella and Parmesan is
graciously appointed with not a hard edge in become a virtual town square in Little Havana. something special. Drunken Hamachi crudo
sight. But nowhere is excellence more evident A quick pause to indulge in rich Cuban coffee with tequila, cilantro and key lime packs some
than in the dining rooms. Meet in Fontana for and a pastry is a moment to savour. punchy flavours. The menu is delightful Miami/
breakfast, and you can while away a morning on www.versaillesrestaurant.com Italian. www.uplandmiami.com
this landscaped terrace, under the trees, enjoy-
ing local fruits and breakfast specialties. › Mignonette in the Edgewater District is a for- At a time of uncertainty in the world, Miami
www.biltmorehotel.com mer 1930s gas station turned oyster bar/seafood is pure escapism. It wraps its arms around us
haven. Chef Danny Serfer adopts a no frills/full and says, “Enjoy.” Everything’s going to be all-
Still it is the Palme D’Or, the restaurant flavor attitude. Try a flight of oysters, twelve right, baby.
named as one of the best in the U.S., which www.miamiandthebeaches.com
offers thrilling contemporary French cuisine. By Sara Waxman
You’ll want to dress to dine under the fresco
painted ceiling, gorgeous chandeliers, and
beautifully appointed tables. When I have the

46 dinemagazine.ca



Elite Orient Tours
Luxury Tourism to Japan

Elite Orient Tours has been one of Canada's leading tour operators since 1976.

HOW HAVE OUR TRAVEL HABITS TO and kimono dressing, and they go anywhere train doesn’t go to where you want. Shinjuku
JAPAN CHANGED? they want. Seniors prefer more traditional sites station alone handles 7, 000, 000 people every
Hayashi (Grover) Jun: When I began, it was and traditional foods, but more refined and high day. It’s not a “last minute place” for travellers.
mainly immigrants going back and forth. I end. I design tours for all of them. Even for Japanese people, if you want to go from
started FIT (foreign independent tours) to Chi- What should people be aware of when Keio Plaza Hotel to City Hall, you have to take
na, Japan and South East Asia in 1985. At that travelling to Japan? out a navigation tool to find out what train you
time Japan wasn’t really in the market. Slowly, HJ: In Japan, travel mainly has to be done by should take; what time you should leave; what
with the Shogun movie and the introduction of train. They have to read more about Japanese time you should have breakfast. That is Japa-
sushi to some restaurants, there was a growing transportation in order to be more efficient nese life. The traveller should do that calcula-
interest in Japan, and the FITs started to move. with their travel. When you travel in Vancou- tion as well.
They were mainly ethnic, Japanese Canadian, ver, Toronto or in New York, there’s not much
and then businessman from the manufacturing difference in how you travel. But in Japan you How do you design your tours?
sector, importers and exporters. have to understand the railway schedule, and HJ: I will set up a summary from the customer’s
that Tokyo is served by twenty different railway wish list, and make an itinerary based on what
Back then the tourists didn’t know the place, companies; so if you want to go to ABC points is practical. I will fill in the hardware first, like
so they relied on hotels with the American you have to use JR plus Keio plus Odakyu lines, the train schedule, flight schedule or ferry
names like the Holiday Inn and Best Western. and that is unheard in Toronto or New York. schedule. Then I put in the software of what you
Now they will book something they don’t even You will waste half a day just to find out that a like: if you don’t like temples I don’t put in tem-
know. Also in the 1980s they were very suspi- ples; if you like gardens I put in more gardens.
cious. They didn’t know tempura or sashimi. I give my clients the summary; the train or bus
Now they know everything already, and they schedule to their hotel; a map of the city near
will go for the street food. their hotel; sightseeing information; baggage
information; and their specific train schedules.
They would go only to the famous places like It is very personalized.
Tokyo, Kyoto and Hiroshima. They would not
visit a place that was not mentioned in an Amer- What do you want your customers to
ican travel book. Now they will go everywhere. appreciate most from their trip?
They will even go to some places that I don’t. It HJ: Other than the scenery, the world heritage,
used to be that people would go to Kyoto, hold- and the good food, there are a lot of things that
ing their Lonely Planet, and they would go to can be experienced. When you drive in your city,
the temple that is mentioned in the travel book. there is honking; everyone is rushed. Japanese
Now people are more knowledgeable. They will don’t do that. They don’t honk to express their
go to the smaller neighbouring cities to find the impatience and anger. It’s very calm. I want
gardens and temples on their own. them to enjoy, and not ever feel rushed. I like
my customers to say they had a peaceful day
What are you excited to promote now? Elite Orient Tours Inc., 112 Elizabeth Street,
HJ: I am promoting Shimane on the Japan Sea Unit 4, Toronto, ON, M5G 1P5,
Side. On the Pacific Sea Side my tours go through Tel: 416-977-3026, Toll-free: 1-800-668-810
the Kyoto and Hiroshima. I also promote www.elitetours.com/japanstory
the northern Japan—Tohoku and Hokkaido.
Younger people like the cities, cooking classes

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