DINE 2019-20

KARATE DEBUTS IN
THE 2020 OLYMPICS
A KIHITO YAGI, the 8th degree
black belt master and President Karate is not about to stress, regulates our digestion, and therefore
of the International Meibu-Kan how to fight; it’s about impacts how to metabolize our nutrition and all
Gōjú-ryú Karate-do Association that we absorb in our lives.
carries the tradition of his grandfather, Meitoku how to not fight,
Yagi, in promoting karate in film and around Okinawan cuisine is extremely healthy. The
the world. soil, made from elevated coral reef, is uniquely
mineral-rich, and is pummelled by UV rays that
cause fruits and vegetables to grow thicker lay-

Before there were belts, before there were and how to not lose. ers of protection and anti-oxidants. Daily con-
professional sports, the ancient art of karate was a sumption of fruits and vegetables is high. Even

way of life in Okinawa. Developed in the Ryukyu the pigs feast on the famous Okinawa pineap-

Kingdom, it swept across the mainland to ple. Fish are as plentiful as they are colourful.

become one of Japan’s most synonymous sports. The kata movement is a blocking technique. Bonito broth is used instead of salt. And a cus-

2020 marks the debut of karate in the Olym- “It makes you strong,” shares Yagi. “It trains tom of hara hachi bu, eating until 80 percent full,

pics. The Tokyo program features two catego- the body how to block, how to escape, but also is practised because low caloric intake improves

ries: Kumite and Kata. The kumite competitions how to kick and punch.” He embodies this spirit blood sugar control and lowers production of

consist of three-minute fights, while the kata and tradition of Okinawa. Meibu-Kan means free radicals. Okinawans emphasize positivity,

competitions are based on the power and preci- "House of the pure-minded warrior." Within laughter, optimism, flexibility and adaptability.

sion of techniques. this house Yagi trains students from around the A key factor for spiritual health and min-

There are a variety of karate styles, each with world who seek the root of this martial art. They imizing stress has to do with the Okinawan

their own kata movements, but only four are range from small children to 92 years old. They concept of ikigai, a reason for living—a reason

recognized in these Olympics games. A tradi- seek strength in body, mind and spirit, and the to get up in the morning. For Akihito Yagi, it is
tional Okinawan style, Gōjú-ryú, emphasizes keys to the healthy longevity for which Okinawa to carry the mantle of karate around the world
PHOTOGRAPHY, JNTO correct breathing, body strengthening and con- is renowned. and weave together physical, mental, social and
ditioning. Gō refers to hard, closed hand tech-
Overdinner,Yagishareswithmethatbreath- spiritual health for the next generation.

niques and linear attacks. Jú refers to soft, open ing affects the heart beat, which affects our www.japan.travel/en/ca/

hand techniques with circular movements. nervous system, which manages our reaction By Adam Waxman

dinemagazine.ca 49

Hiroshima
W ITHIN THE Hiroshima Peace SOYFMPBEAOCLES
Memorial Museum, projec- ered to be one of the top three scenic spots in PHOTOGRAPHY, ADAM WAXMAN, JNTO (CRANES)
tion mapping reveals the ca- One day in Hiroshima Japan. At low tide we can walk out to it, at all
lamity as it unfolded on that recalibrates our focus to other times it’s a boat ride. Dotted with temples
fateful morning of August 6, 1945. It’s a sobering our fragile humanity. While like the Senjō-kaku Temple with its five-tiered
glimpse into the reality of a moment in time news today talks of threats pagoda, the forest and mountain trails of the
whose enormity is too huge to fathom. The his- of imminent conflicts, this island are a cool respite into natural beauty.
tory of Hiroshima leading up to the event, as well city, itself a casualty of war, Deer laze along the side of the road without a
as its aftermath, provide context. A watch, fro- is the symbol for peace, care in the world. The shops of the old town pur-
zen at 8:15am, the exact time that the atomic simultaneously evoking vey all the local specialties from ripe fruit burst-
bomb detonated 600 metres above; and the "Hu- ing with tropical sweetness to skewered meats.
man Shadow Etched in Stone" on the steps horror and hope. What makes my eyes pop out are the utterly
where a man sat at the moment of his incinera- massive smoked oysters cooked-to-order. Stop
tion, are shocking. But, it’s the photos, the letters both a reminder of the past, and our responsi- the tour. I’m happy right here.
and the stories of the school children, along with bility to the future.
the warped tricycle that belonged to a three year The enticing aroma of freshly baked momiji
old boy riding in his front yard when he looked While it’s an essential visit on every travel manju (maple leaf-shaped waffles) wafts through
up to see that fatal bright light flash across the itinerary to Japan, Hiroshima today is not the town. They’re stuffed with lemon, mikan,
sky, that made me weep. History is powerful. You defined by that day. Beyond the Hiroshima sweet bean or even local oysters. I eat them all.
cannot be educated without feeling. Peace Memorial Park the charm of a resilient Within the kitchen of the Miyajima Traditional
culture continues to flourish. Crafts Center we bake our own chocolate stuffed
Outside, in the soft breeze, a short walk waffles, head outside to the tree lined shore, relax
leads us to the Cenotaph. A stone chamber in In nearby Miyajima we look out over the amongst the deer, and enjoy our warm confec-
the centre contains the Register of Deceased inland sea and marvel at the fiery orange float- tions with a cup of green tea.
A-bomb Victims. “Let all the souls here rest in ing torii gates of Itsukushima Shrine, consid-
peace, for we shall not repeat the evil,” it reads. Hiroshima captivates our senses from our
It’s quiet now, except for the Children’s Peace hearts and our minds to our palates. The bus-
Monument in which a bronze wind chime in tling downtown with its steaming plates of
the shape of a crane draws us toward its delicate okonomiyaki, chock full of meats and seafood,
calls. Suspended from a peace bell we gently and savoury bowls of umami-rich Onomichi
pull it to herald world peace, harmony and pros- ramen with homemade flat noodles, is con-
perity for all. trasted by the quiet surrounding countryside,
steeped in traditions that beckon further explo-
Across the river, 160 metres from the hypo- rations. At the centre is our collective symbol of
center, the skeleton of the Hiroshima Prefec- peace and hope from all those before us for all
tural Industrial Promotion Hall still stands as those after us. www.japan.travel/en/ca/
By Adam Waxman

50 dinemagazine.ca

MULTI-
SENSORY

TOKYO ARTS 1

From the moment Japanese students
learn to write kanji, the logographic
Chinese characters that compose the
written language, they become artists
with precision and attention to detail.
It’s no wonder that Japanese culture is
exploding with arts. Museums, galleries
and workshops dazzle Tokyo itineraries
with imaginations fulfilled.

1 teamLab Borderless show. We climb through 3
No art gallery will ever be the a forest of lanterns to
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF TEAMLAB BORDERLESS (ABOVE); "PORTRAIT OF AN ARTIST" ©YAYOI KUSAMA same again. We wander, wide- pass from one realm attempts. Time is unforgiving, works at the microscopic and
eyed, through surrealistic dreams to the next. Wading in and the difference between soft cosmic levels simultaneously,
and soundscapes enveloped in a pool of ethereal lily caramel and hard porcelain is mere and her kaleidoscope mind
psychedelia. This immersive pads we refract the light with seconds. Watching the master at reveals a matrix of polka dots
selfie-wonderland makes artists of our hands with the illusion that work is hypnotic. We are amazed. that explore and reveal our
us all as colours rain, borders melt we are bathing in it. Our minds On display and for purchase are connections to the world and
and our imaginations are released are blown. his most intricately designed the universe around us.
and re-framed within the lens of www. borderless.teamlab.art candies that look like glass blown • Opening Days: Thursdays to
our own cameras. We bounce and ornaments. www.ame-shin.com/en Sundays and National Holidays
slide along the surface of the moon 2 Amezaiku Ameshin All tickets must be purchased in
into a room of giant orbs. The fish A traditional Japanese craft 3 Yayoi Kusama Museum advance online.
that children draw are given life by from the 8th century, Amezaiku Peering through a narrow • Entry is timed and only valid
scanners enabling them to swim is the art of molding candy by window into a large pink ball, for a specific 90-minute time-
along the floor, walls and ceiling. heating it to high temperatures reflections from a cosmic myopia slot.
Perched in a nest in space we are and then quickly but methodically of mirrored orbs peer back at me. I • Tickets go on sale at 10am
visually blasted by a laser light manipulating it with hands and am at once voyeur and participant. (Japan Time) on the first day
An iridescent pumpkin patch of each month for entry in the
2 Japanese scissors. teases a Halloween dreamscape month after next.
Workshops at in which to wander and wonder. *Door tickets are not available
Amezaiku Ameshin Standing alone as a filament in a *Tickets can be purchased
share how to create galactic chandelier, a sea of candles only through the museum’s
basic animal shapes illuminates the darkness to website.
out of candy by eternity. The physical, emotional • Upcoming exhibits:
cutting, pulling and spiritual relationship to time www.yayoikusamamuseum.jp/
and bending, and and space that Yayoi Kusama
today we are making evokes in each of her exhibits is jp/exhibition/upcoming/
bunnies to take personal and profound. Kusama
home with us. It’s www.yayoikusamamuseum.jp
even harder than
it looks, so we’re By Adam Waxman
permitted three

dinemagazine.ca 51

IPSNHEAETLRHLLE town, we look out over the ocean and await are riveted by the brilliant process
today’s catch. One by one they file in—this mys- patented by Mikimoto Kōkichi
Women have a saying in terious band of woman with cherubic smiles— for cultivating pearls. Glittering
Ise-Shima: “A full-fledged carrying with them baskets of large clams, spectaculars fill the museum, like
Ama diver has the guts to scallops, squid and turban shell. Sipping miso the eighteen carrot gold Mikimoto
feed even her husband” soup and indulging in sea urchin rice, we’re Pearl Crown, bejewelled with sev-
mesmerized as they char their treasure over the enteen diamonds and 796 pearls;
T YING A 30-POUND STONE grill, and serve us their sampling of the sea. the Liberty Bell, first exhibited at
around his elderly wife’s waist, the 1939 New York World's Fair,
the husband patiently waits se- Nearby Mikimoto Island is the birthplace of set with 356 diamonds and 12, 250
curely in the boat until she com- cultured pearl aquaculture. Ama pearl divers pearls; and The Globe encrusted
pletes her dive, filling her bucket with seafood, give demonstrations here, but the pearl in the in 373 diamonds, 377 rubies and
so he can pull her back in, and together, sail shell is actually inside the museum where we 12,541 pearls. The gift shop is as
home. Date night? No. This is the 2000-year old accessible as it is magnificent,
tradition of Funado Ama Divers. Men go out to with gorgeous necklaces, ear-
fish, and women plunge into the bay in search of rings, bracelets and pendants of
sea life. Why? Because, we’re told, women have gold, pink, black and white pearls.
more fat than men to help them brave the cold, There is only one way I have got-
and have greater breathing capacity. Whatever ten away without purchasing a
the reason, this human feat is extraordinary. unique gift at Mikimoto, and that is by not tell-
ing anyone I was there.
1000 independent Kachido Ama divers swim On the outskirts of town is Shinmei Shrine,
into the frigid waters of the Ise Shima bay in Mie which houses Ishigami-san, Stone God and
Prefecture. Donning white suits to ward off protector of women. Ama divers worship
sharks and protect against jellyfish, they mark here, and it is considered a power spot that
themselves with a peace sign to drive away evil attracts women from all over Japan, in part
spirits, a star sign for a safe return, and a cross- because Ishigama will grant one wish…to a
hatch to denote that God will keep watch over woman. In addition to safety at sea, I’m sure
them. Without modern diving equipment like that more than a few have had Mikimoto pearls
oxygen tanks, they dive 10 metres deep, hold on their mind. www.japan.travel/en/ca/
their breath for more than one minute at a time, By Adam Waxman
and then whistle to maintain correct breathing.
When they return to the surface, they fill their PHOTOGRAPHY, ADAM WAXMAN; JNTO (AMA DIVERS IN HUT)
buckets with oysters, abalone, turbon shell,
sea urchin and seaweed. They’ve been training
since childhood and dive well into their 80s.
Their three-hour journey is freezing, so the first
one back has to light the fire--quickly.

Seated in an Ama Hut on the shore of Osatsu

52 dinemagazine.ca

HEARTLAND JAPAN
F AR AWAY FROM THE cacophony
of the cities, we seek a culturally The sun rises over Ise and the longest running silver mine in Japan. Down
immersive adventure to experi- the dark tunnels, into the mountain, and out
ence authenticity that cannot be another side, we pass through so much history
reached by a tour bus. The Heartland Japan and scenery on foot. We deserve a soak in the
local hot springs that await us.

tour through Izumo, Iwami Ginzan and the Go- sets in Izumo. This is where Hiking through bamboo woods of darting
nokawa River Trail of Shimane Prefecture em- the Gods roam. monkeys and wild boars we reach tiny fishing
phasizes real experience over mere sightseeing. villages along the shore. Inside his home, local

Here, we get off the bus and walk. fisherman and painter, Amano-san, shares with

We begin at Inasanohama beach, the gate- Kagura Company, and again, gaze upon mas- us his paintings of the river that he calls home.

way to Izumo. This is the time of year when all terful synchronization of movement. We ask The river, he says, provides for his family and

the Gods from across Japan descend on Kami- so many questions from their diet to their cho- has taught him how to live. On a good day, he

no-miya shrine to plan the coming year’s busi- reography. Afterwards we visit the Kobayashi could catch 600 fish. Now, he prefers to paint

ness relations, family ties and matchmaking. It’s Kobo and, surrounded by demons, paint our them. Outside we admire his old fishing boat

windy, and the waves are picking up. I suppose own Kagura masks. In keeping with the spirit that he made from scratch. From the river to

when 8,000,000 Gods are on your guest list, of craftsmanship, we visit Yakimono no Sato, the mountains, we wind through narrow paths

that’s to be expected. The nearby Izumo-tai- the largest climbing kiln in Japan, for a ceramic and up ancient steps. We hear only the sound

sha is the highest shrine in Japan. Standing at workshop in which we bake earthenware cups in of wind in the trees, the occasional call of a

twenty four metres, it’s the most ancient and traditional Yunotsu-yaki style. hawk, and the flow of water that sounds like a

the most important. The main deity enshrined These workshops are remote. We walk deep roll of applause.

here is Okuninushi, the creator of Japan, ruler of through lush green forests to reach them, For our last stop, we find ourselves standing

Izumo, and God of good relationships and mar- breathing in fresh clean air, and feeling invigo- in the middle of a playground with the Onan

riage. Upon entrance to the grounds we clap our rated with each step. Along the way we indulge School Kids Club in a pick-up game of soccer,

hands four times: twice for ourselves, and twice in Ayu river fish, local soba and sake, weaving in as a growing number of children congregate.

for the partner we desire. and out of samurai residences and local shops, Am I out of breath because I’m out of shape, or

As the Gods convene, their stories are retold each one more charming than the last. In the because I’m laughing so hard? The infectious

through the ancient art of Kagura that flourishes Iwami Ginzan mining town, we pass a yuzu sweetness of these children is pure joy. Together

in Shimane. It is the oldest performance art in tree, and pluck juicy ripe fruits for our walk to we head to the back of their school where a fire

Japan. Tucked into the Yunotsu pit has been stoked. We each wrap

Shrine we watch highly charged potatoes that they’ve picked for

theatrics that bring ancient folklore us in tin foil, and throw them into

to life. As the tension of the tale the fire. As the potatoes cook, we

mounts, the flautist and percus- attempt language exchange with

sionists intensify their playing to a hilarity. One by one, we retrieve our

rising crescendo. Masked-perform- snacks from the fire, peel back the

ers uncoil their giant seventeen foil, and find a spot to sit among the

metres-long serpentine costumes group of children eating potatoes.

in billowing smoke and fire. How Deep in the mountains of Shi-

do the performers manoeuvre on mane, in places time forgot, the

PHOTOGRAPHY, ADAM WAXMAN stage? How do they avoid entan- heartland of Japan beats in these

gling themselves? We’re awe- communities who live with such

struck. I’m on the edge of my seat honest simplicity and innocence

with excitement. One by one, the that, to even observe, let alone

protagonist smites off their heads interact, is as profoundly heartfelt

with his sword. as it is unforgettable.

To best appreciate Kagura, we www.heartlandjapan.com

attend the rehearsal of the Yukita By Adam Waxman

dinemagazine.ca 53

MoonFlower Sagaya Ginza, Art by teamLab, Tokyo, Japan
© teamLab

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BEST HOTEL cent to Shinjuku Station, there are thirty eight manner and history as well as culture. Guests
IN TOKYO banquet rooms, fifteen restaurants, including can also sign up for a kimono experience, ei-
chefs like Yosuke Nakane, winner of the La ther in a photo shoot or to walk around outside
A GOOD HOTEL offers more Maison Cointruae Japan 2018, and Hirochika in Shinjuku. In the lobby there are exhibitions
than service. It offers culture. Midorikawa, the first Japanese-French cuisine from Kabuki to No performances, from Geiko
When the Keio Plaza Hotel chef to be awarded in Paris for contribution to and Maiko to flower arranging workshops. The
was erected in 1971, it was To- French cuisine in Japan; and three bars, helmed gallery showcases pottery, woodblock prints
kyo’s tallest building. Since then it has made by legendary Kazuya Watanabe, the first Japa- and paintings. The garden is immaculate, and
great strides to stay on top of trends. For family nese bartender to get a yellow medal from the I sit here remembering my first night in Japan
travelers there are suites with four beds in the emperor for his contribution to bartending. at the Keio Plaza Hotel back in 1997, when I
room, a comfortable nursing room, and a child Take a private limousine tour to a sake brewery, phoned home to my parents to let them know
care service. Universal designs and services are or indulge in an Alice in Wonderland themed everything was going to be just fine.
accessible for wheel chairs and hearing impair- afternoon tea. The Japanese style Tea Room www.keioplaza.com
ment. There are on-site medical clinics. There appeals to all five senses and imparts Japanese
are even special toilets for guide dogs. A conve- By Adam Waxman
nience store and a shopping floor cater to every
need. Each hotel room is equipped with a com-
plimentary smart phone service. Sign up for it,
and keep it with you for wifi, phone and text ca-
pabilities around Tokyo. There is a reason why
36, 000 couples have celebrated their weddings
here. In addition to its central location adja-

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF KEIO (ABOVE); FOUR SEASONS (BELOW) BEST HOTEL lionaire’s Row. From some suites there is a view custom furnishings include hand-
IN NEW in two different directions providing dramatic made, king-sized pedestal beds,
vistas of the iconic Chrysler Building, down- oversized oak executive desks, and
YORK CITY town skyline, the East River and the Atlantic custom-made hand knotted Tai
Ocean. Attention has been paid. Residential Ping wool carpets. For those who
T HE FOUR SEASONS HOTEL at cannot tear themselves away from
57 East 57th opened in 1993 to great these beautiful calm rooms, there
acclaim. The world came to ad- is 24 hour room service.
mire the classic design of architect
I.M. Pei, and the opulent Art Deco lobby. Wher- The days of a fine dining restau-
ever the eye fell in the lobby, there was the rant at the Four Seasons ended in
beauty of rare wood, an onyx ceiling and mar- 2012, with the closure of L’Atelier
ble columns and floors. I was fortunate to have Joel Robuchon. Do folks come
attended the grand, black tie opening, and to New York to eat at their hotel
joined the international celebrity guests who when there are so many “must try”
admired the handsome staircase from the front celebrity restaurants out there?
door to the lobby, the lighting and the sumptu- I chose to have dinner at the Ty
ous interiors. Each room, they said, with its Bar, named after the hotel own-
gold silk walls and custom furnishings, cost er Ty Warner, and I couldn’t be
one million dollars to create. The hotel had in- happier. From the menu of classic
stant cachet and became the toast of New York. cocktails, I take the most classic of
Their reputation has never wavered. all, a dry vodka martini with extra
olives. I sit back on my lush velvet
As twenty years pass, public taste changes. banquet, near the wood burning
A 100% renovation now offers breath-taking fireplace and people-watch. Fas-
panoramic views of New York City. Through cinating viewing. The menu is au
oversized windows, (that open) the one and courant comfort food: seafood
two-bedroom Manhattan Suites rise above the tartar, wearing a sprightly neck-
city and provide some of the best views on Bil- lace of thinly sliced cucumber; a
steak wearing a jaunty cap of on-
ion crisps and baby asparagus.
The Garden Restaurant opens at
6:30 to serve N.Ys most elegant, sophisticated
breakfast in a calm environment that means
business.
www.fourseasons.com/newyork
By Sara Waxman

dinemagazine.ca 55

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O ver two centuries ago, whenColon- Draco Restaurant PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF THE REMINGTON GROUP (DRACO); COURTESTY OF TERRE ROUGE
al John Graves Simcoe, the first Lieu-
tenant Governor of Upper Canada, boutiques. It is a neighbourhood that blends
declared this area the Township of art, culture and architecture into a meaningful
Markham in 1791 and named it after his friend, community hub. Downtown Markham has
William Markham, Archbishop of York, men of become the heart of the city. In fact, in the West-
vision have had their eye on Markham. Now, ern world’s most diverse country, Markham is
residents of the City of Markham (Inc. 2012) known as the Diversity Capital of Canada. Its
can say, “Hey, let’s go downtown.” And that residents are multi-lingual, highly educated,
would mean a jaunt to Enterprise Blvd. for din- well employed and incredibly trend conscious.
ner at a white tablecloth restaurant, a first run
movie at Cineplex, a shopping spree, a beverage A weekend at the handsome Toronto
at a pretty café, or a hop-on for a breezy ride Marriott Markham gives me a peek into the
on the Pride of Canada Carousel, an interactive Downtown Markham lifestyle. From the min-
work of sustainable art. ute we drive into the parking garage, we are
amazed at the Music Garage Mural and colour-
The Remington Group, the third gen- ful renderings of famous musicians. This is our
eration Bratty family company, employs a introduction to the Remington Contemporary
tangibly caring, hands-on relationship to the Art Gallery, one of the world’s most ambitious
development of this “downtown.” It has cre- public art programs, featuring more than $25
ated a unique area that plays host to art and million of stunning installations cleverly inte-
sculpture installations, restaurants and cafes, grated into the public spaces of Downtown
movie theatres, a central hotel and unique retail Markham. In the hotel, wherever the eye falls,
there is something to admire: the undulating
glass and metal light installation that resembles

Terre Rouge dinemagazine.ca
58

a dragon’s tail, and the unusually large lobby pause to admire the fascinating New York sizzling in lemon butter, and an aromatic saf-
lounge with Draco Restaurant and it’s seven Times Canadian Photo Archive dating back fron-infused osso bucco ravioli, we are ready to
distinct seating environments. One of which to the late 1800s. At the beautifully appointed indulge in the finest USDA Prime ribeye, broiled
is a row of booths, each seating eight guests, pool, a special piece is a Rollo Phlecks instal- at 1800 degrees and sizzling on a 500 degree
with a TV set installed in the wall—very popu- lation of colourful panels that change from plate that keeps my steak hot and delicious ‘till
lar during sports seasons. The mixologist has moment to moment as light passes through the last bite. Overnight-marinated lamb chops
created an innovative bourbon program with each panel. This stunning mixed-use hotel are succulent, and a luscious Chilean Sea Bass
enticing cocktails, coffee, and menu items fea- reflects Marriott’s latest design concept com- is accented with citrus coconut butter, and a
turing bourbon. We’re just in time for lunch, bining sophisticated guest suites, world-class whipped sweet potato and pineapple hash.
and from a comfortable curved booth, we amenities and luxurious residences created
peruse the menu. Shareables of luscious sea- with exciting detail. If a gift is in order, drop Across the street is The Origin, Downtown
food charcuterie and a generous cheeseboard into Signature Eyewear for a cool pair of new Markham’s epicenter of public entertainment,
are popular at other tables, but I see hot maple glasses, or La Difference for a stylish Rolex. If home to Cineplex VIP + IMAX, York U's YSpace
bourbon wings, lobster grilled cheese on challah you crave something sweet, do not miss Cacao Innovation Lab, Yamaha Music School, a
and King Cole Duck confit, and I’m not sharing. 70 dip shop or Demetre’s for an inspirational 24-hour GoodLife Fitness and even an outpost
Live music plays at night. A relaxing breakfast ice cream confection. of Currey’s Art Supplies. “Sneaker heads” stand
of modern classics from low carb egg options to in line awaiting limited edition shoe release at
corn flake crusted French toast, Belgian waffles, Seriously hungry, my eyes light up at the specialty boutiques. At Chattime, Capsule and
and a Lavender Mocha with bourbon infused sight of Ruth’s Chris Steak House just off the Go For Tea there are line-ups to order the latest
maple syrup make this the place to be. lobby. Consistency is key, and I know I will have trendy beverage. I make my way to the larger
the same robust and juicy steak I’ve enjoyed at Lucullus Bakers and Roasters, a microcosm of
Art is part of the personality of the hotel. At Ruth’s Chris in any other city. After a New Orle- a Hong Kong bakery. The kitchen brings out an
the elevators in the lobby, and on every floor, ans style appetizer of plump blue crab cakes endless supply of freshly baked and steamed ➤

dinemagazine.ca 59

buns, cakes and light entrees. I am 匠心建造 PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF LANNA THAI RESTAURANT
so happy with my soufflé cake and 客似雲來
an excellent cup of coffee. Wander-
ing through this plaza, admiring 自1791年開始，當上加拿大首任省督約翰·格雷夫斯·西姆
the stunning art installations, it 科 (John Graves Simcoe)上校，以朋友約克大主教威廉·萬錦
strikes me that one could eat here （William Markham）的名字，命名該區為萬錦(Township of
every day for weeks and not dine Markham)後，二百多年來，有識之士都看好萬錦。如今當萬錦市
at the same place twice. Costa (2012年正式升格為市）居民說：「嘿，我們去市中心吧！」這意
Sorrento is an authentic Italian 味著到附近的企業大道(Enterprise Blvd)去轉一個圈，在鋪設白枱
restaurant with all the classics and 布的餐廳晚膳；在Cineplex看首輪電影；來一次瘋狂購物； 在漂亮
a few interesting surprises: for the 的咖啡店裏喝東西； 又或跳上一件互動的可持續藝術作品——「
adventurous palate, an appetizer 加拿大驕傲」旋轉木馬坐一下。
of marinated fresh anchovies with
chilli flakes, parsley and oregano. 發展商The Remington Group，第三代的Bratty家族公司，以明確
Just right for sharing, a whole 的關懷和實踐關係去打造這個「市中心」。它創造了一個獨特的
grilled Adriatic crispy skin sea bass 區域，包羅了藝術和雕塑裝置、餐廳和咖啡室、電影院、一間中
has the freshness of the sea. Pillows 央酒店和眾多獨特的精品店。這個揉合了藝術、文化和建築的鄰
of gnocchi, fettuccine and plump 舍，被設計成一個別具意義的社區樞鈕。萬錦市中心成為城市的
ravioli, are all homemade by a fine Lanna Authentic Thai Cuisine 中心。事實上，在西方世界中最具多元文化特色的國度裏，萬錦
Italian hand. Pizza with so many 市向以加拿大的多元文化之都見稱，這裏的居民通曉多種語言，
inventive toppings makes me order 受過高等教育，就業狀況良好，而且具有驚人的潮流觸覺。
one to take home for later. There is even fresh mini cannoli for dessert,
and that’s amoré. 在漂亮的萬錦萬豪酒店(Markham Marriot Hotel)渡過一個週末，
讓我得以一窺萬錦市中心的生活方式。從車子駛入停車場的那一
If you’re dreaming of sushi, Kiu Japanese Restaurant’s goal is “to 刻開始，音樂停車場的壁畫，以及著名音樂家的彩色效果圖都予
bring happiness to your taste buds.” A5 Wagyu comes directly from 人驚喜。這是Remington現代藝術館給我們的開場白，這個世界上
Miyazaki and the sushi counter is like a market of today’s catch. Want to 最具野心的公共藝術計劃，將超過二千五百萬元震撼人心的藝術
custom-order your own whole fish sashimi directly from Japan? Speak 裝置，巧妙地融合於萬錦市中心的公共空間。在酒店裏，無論你
to the manager, who will have it for you within one week. At the oyster 望向哪裏，都有賞心悅目之處： 起伏的玻璃和金屬燈光裝置，就
bar they’re pairing oysters with ponzu jelly and wine. We come here for 如一條龍的尾巴，以及非比尋常的巨型大堂酒廊，與及Draco餐廳
the clean ramen selection from salt or soy sauce- based bowls with cus- 和它七個不同的座位區。其中之一是一排可以容納八人的廂座，
tom-made noodles. House-made chili oil and red miso with wok-fried 電視裝置在牆上，體育季節甚受歡迎。調酒師以誘人的雞尾酒，
ground tofu, bamboo, wood ear mushrooms and thick, twisty noodles 咖啡，及以波旁為特色的餐單，設計了新穎的波旁美饌。我們剛
is a vegetarian delight. Kotteri Shoyu Tsukemen is a rich double soup of 好趕上午餐時間，坐在舒適的弧型廂座上細讀餐單。共享的美味
seafood and pork broth blended with Ishhin Shoyu and thick noodles 海鮮熟食和份量不少的芝士盆在鄰桌很受歡迎，但我獨愛楓糖波
served hot or cold. 旁雞翼、龍蝦芝士三文治、鴨汁芝士薯條，一人獨享美食。 ➤

A chandelier of over 1000 bulbs illuminate the deep blue and emer- dinemagazine.ca
ald green Lanna Thai Restaurant, named for a Thai spirit and dynasty.
All the better to appreciate the vibrant panoply of ingredients set before
us. A Street Food platter including satay chicken, turmeric fried shrimp
and grilled pineapple wets our appetite before our senses are totally
seduced by a fragrant bowl of rich and silky green curry with pop in your
mouth Thai eggplant and chicken thighs. Plump tiger shrimp crown
steaming aromatic Phad Thai. Delicately crisped sea bass, accented
with peppers, is perfectly tender, as are fall-off-the-bone Massaman
curry lamb shanks and Panang curry beef short ribs. Dungeness crab
is presented in a signature curry with a depth of sweet heat. Each dish
of vegetables, meats and fresh fish, in their complex range of prepa-
rations, are generously portioned, beautifully presented, and delight
every palate.

Terre Rouge stands in a glass jewel-box like building, adjacent to the
carousel. Chef Forrest Lieu has a passionate and elegant touch. A slice
of velvety foie gras torchon is caramelized and sits on brioche crumble.
Added swagger comes from tart Hawthorne compote and a whimsical
pile of smoked “snow.” Order salmon tartare and it appears rolled in
strips of avocado, sporting a dollop of caviar. Sharing is the shine of the
times. A whole roasted Rock Cornish hen is carved at the table, crisp
skinned and so unusually juicy, I ask chef for his recipe. Golden miso-
glazed black cod on spinach risotto, crisped duck leg with beer foam,
and buttermilk spiced fried chicken with apple mango slaw all enliven
our palates and set our taste buds awhirl.

Broadly defined, a visit to Downtown Markham is a rewarding
cultural experience. The structurally relaxed architecture and sophis-
ticated yet friendly restaurants and shops invite multi-generational
families to enjoy a day’s excursion. Many come to appreciate the art
installations integrated in to the public spaces, or for a retail fix. But the
visionaries have more plans. Stay tuned for the next chapter.

60

COMING SOON TO THORNHILL
Exclusive Estate Lots starting from 3 Million

1.877.702.7870

View more Remington projects at remingtongroupinc.com

Terre Rouge

晚上有現場樂手錶演，早餐供應由低碳水化合物的雞蛋選項，到玉 自製的。披薩上的配料很有創意，讓我忍不住點了一個回家吃。這 PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESTY OF TERRE ROUGE
米片法式多士、比利時華夫餅、加入波旁酒浸楓糖漿的薰衣草摩 裏甚至有新鮮的甜品迷你卡諾里卷，這就是愛( amoré)。
卡，這裏果然是輕鬆早餐的現代經典。
假如你想吃壽司，喜雨日本餐廳( Kiu Japanese Restaurant)的宗旨是
藝術是酒店個性的一部份。在大堂的升降機裹、每一層樓，都可停 「給你的味蕾帶來喜悅」。高級A5和牛直接從宮崎運來，壽司枱就
下來欣賞動人的《紐約時報》加拿大檔案照片，時間可追溯至19世 像新鮮供應的魚市場。想特別從日本訂購一整條魚生？可以和經理
紀末期。在裝修精美的游泳池旁，羅洛·弗萊克斯(Rollo Phlecks) 洽談，他可以在一星期內給你運來。在生蠔吧上，他們以柚子果凍
的一組特別藝術裝置，彩色鑲板會隨著不同時間的光線流入而變 和酒與生蠔配搭。我們在這裏點了以鹽和豉油作湯底配特製麵條的
化。這座懾人的混合多用途酒店反映了萬豪的最新設計概念，以精 清湯拉麵。自製辣椒油和紅味噌，配以熱炒豆腐碎、竹筍、木耳和
彩細節打造精緻的客房、世界級的設施和豪華住宅。假若你要選 粗大捲曲的麵條，誠然是素食者的至愛。 Kotteri 醬油沾麵(Kotteri
購禮品，可以到Signature Eyewear選購新款超酷的眼鏡，又或到 La Shoyu Tsukemen)是一種由海鮮和豬肉熬製而成的濃湯，配以 Ishhin
Difference選一隻時尚勞力士腕錶。假如你渴望來一點甜品，別錯過 醬油和粗麵，冷吃熱吃俱可。
Cacao 70的美味甜點，或是Demetre’s令人精神為之一振的雪糕。
千多個燈泡組成的吊燈照亮了以深藍和翠綠色為主調的Lanna Thai
肚子餓得要命，當看到大堂側Ruth’s Chris 牛排屋的招牌時，眼睛頓 泰國餐廳，以泰國的精神和皇朝命名。充滿活力的食材擺放面前令
時亮了起來。穩定水平就是關鍵，我深信這裏的牛排像其他城市的 人更加欣賞。一個街頭小吃拼盆包括沙爹雞，姜黃炸蝦和烤菠蘿,令
Ruth’s Chris一樣豐腴多汁。當吃過以檸檬牛油烤煮的新奧爾良藍蟹 人食慾大增，之後我們的味覺被濃郁香滑的青咖喱，脆脆的泰國茄
餅頭盆、藏紅花燉牛膝意大利餃子後，我們準備好享用美國農業部 子和雞腿完全降服。豐滿的老虎蝦配以香味四溢的泰式炒河。香脆
最好的肉眼牛排，以華氏1800度的高溫燒烤，牛排盛在500度的盤子 的鱸魚配以辣椒，非常嫩滑，還有燜得香軟的瑪莎曼咖哩(Massaman
裏由始至終灼熱而美味。隔夜醃制的羊排肉汁四濺，而智利海鱸魚 curry )羊腿和帕能咖哩(Panang curry)牛肋骨。珍寶蟹以特色咖喱烹
配以柑橘椰子油、及甘薯和菠蘿蓉，鮮香美味。 調，特別鮮甜。每道蔬菜、肉和鮮魚都悉心準備，份量十足，賣相
悅目，令每個味蕾都能充份享受。
街對面是萬錦市中心的娛樂城The Origin，其中有Cineplex VIP
+ IMAX、約克大學的 YSpace 創新實驗室、Yamaha音樂學 Terre Rouge座落在像玻璃珠寶盒的建築物中，毗鄰旋轉木馬。大廚
校、24小時開放的GoodLife Fitness健身室，以至Currey美術用品 Forrest Lieu富有熱情而優雅的氣質。一片柔軟的棉布鵝肝(foie gras
公司。球鞋迷在專賣店XXX排隊等待限量版鞋子發售。人們在 torchon)被烤得焦糖化，配在麵包碎上。加上山楂果醬和一堆異想天
Chattime、Capsule 和Go For Tea輪候購買最新的時尚飲品。我則去 開的「雪」，看起來更加神氣。點了三文魚韃靼，它被一片牛油果
了龍島麵包店(Lucullus Bakers and Roasters)，那是一間香港麵包店 包著，配以一團魚子醬。一起分菜是晚餐的美好時光，一整隻美國
旳縮影。廚房不斷供應各式新鮮烘焙麵包及蒸包、蛋糕和小吃。我 嫩雞在桌上分切，皮脆多汁，令我不禁向大廚索取菜譜。菠菜意大
很滿意自己點了的舒芙蕾蛋糕和那杯美味咖啡。在商場裏閒逛，欣 利燴飯上的金色味噌黑鱈魚，啤酒泡沫酥鴨腿，還有酪奶香料炸雞
賞動人藝術裝置之際，我突然想到人們可以天天在這裏用膳，吃上 配蘋果芒沙拉，都令我們的味蕾舞動起來。
幾週也不會重覆食肆。Costa Sorrento是正宗意大利餐廳，有著所有
的經典特色的同時，卻包含一些有趣的驚喜： 對敢於冒險的人，開 廣義來說，到萬錦市中心的探訪是一次有意義的文化體驗。結構輕
胃菜是醃制過的新鮮鳳尾魚、辣椒片、歐芹和牛至。而一整條燒得 鬆悠閒的建築，精緻但不失友善的餐廳和店鋪是一家幾代人的消遣
皮脆肉滑的亞得里亞海鱸魚帶著海洋的鮮味，最適合大家分享。意 好去處。許多人來這裏欣賞融合入公共空間的藝術裝置，或是來購
大利馬鈴薯丸子、寛條麵、豐滿的意大利餃子，都是意大利人親手 物，但有識之士將有更多計劃，好好留意下一章吧！

62 dinemagazine.ca



LaDnuake
A FINE DINING GRANDE DAME

control. I can’t take credit for that. My management team and my son,
who is so much more involved in the business than I am, have helped
maintain that quality.

SW: In addition to opening franchises across the US, two years after your
first in San Antonio, you chose to open in Toronto. Why was this import-
ant to you?
LD: I wanted to bring Ruth’s Chris back home to Canada and I pursued
opening in Toronto. I was able to negotiate a great lease at the Toronto
Hilton Hotel and I am very proud and humbled by the fact that I have
that franchise.

➤ CONVERSATION WITH SW: You have sponsored Roy Maas Youth Alternatives in San Antonio,
and Raintree Children and Family Services in New Orleans. San Antonio’s
Sara Waxman: What distinguishes Ruth’s Chris Steak House that cata- Downtown Alliance named Ruth’s Chris “Best Restaurant with a Heart” for
pulted it to the world’s largest fine dining steak house brand? your charitable community involvement. How essential is charity to the
Lana Duke: It was Ruth Fertel, founder of Ruth’s Chris, and her vision. Ruth’s Chris brand?
With her chemistry and physics degrees she had this broiler made that LD: I was a foster child from the age of nine months to 15 years. I owe so
cooked steaks at 1800°. Her goal was to get the finest beef that money much of my success to the people who were not family and helped me
could buy, and she wanted the last bite to be as hot as the first. The siz- maintain my inner strength. Now it is my turn. When Hurricane Katrina
zle in the plate kept it hot to the very last bite. It was difficult to get every hit, I was in Toronto for a golf tournament to benefit Peel Children’s Aid
Ruth’s Chris in the world to do that. “If it doesn’t sizzle, send it back.” and I asked if a percentage of the proceeds could go to the foster children
That helped build the brand. in New Orleans. My son is aligned with the Leukemia and Lymphoma Soci-
ety of Canada. In San Antonio when a diner buys a certain appetizer, that
money goes to a charity. When I know that I have reached out and helped
a child, it comes back to me 100 fold.

SW: You have mentored other restaurateurs. Is there a common thread to
maintaining a successful restaurant?
LD: In a word: consistency. Things have stayed the same because of
a proven formula. We have added a few dishes through the years. In
Toronto people love our chicken, and we’ve added other vegetable dishes.
Whether it is in Toronto, Seattle or Hong Kong, that dish will taste the
same. But the main thing is hospitality. We want you to feel comfortable
in a professional and friendly environment.

SW: How did you get from Toronto to New Orleans? SW: You are often asked to speak to professional groups about raising
LD: I was 18 years old, living with three girls in Rosedale, and we wanted to capital, solving business problems and growth in a challenging business
travel. When one girl became a flight attendant stationed in New Orleans, environment, and have been cited for your “Ten Tips for Success in this
we decided to join her. Crazy Business.” Is it about the steak or the people?
LD: It is about both the steak and the people. Ruth used to refer to the
SW: You then became “the secret weapon” behind other companies’ suc- back of the house as the heart of the house. At every opening she would go
cesses. To what did you attribute that moniker? to the heart of the house first to thank everyone.
LD: I started selling ads for a newspaper, then opened my own advertis- 1. F irst, find your USP, your Unique Selling Proposition. Then,
ing agency. One of my first clients was Ruth’s Chris. Communication is
the key to learning the strengths and weaknesses of a company. You have think big. Forget about money; you can always scale back.
to find that USP (Unique Selling Proposition), like “the sizzle” in a 2. About raising capital: people don’t buy companies, they buy
Ruth’s Chris steak.
people. You have to have the marketing plan, the master plan,
SW: All of your restaurants have achieved the DiRoNa Award and the Wine but that investor is buying you.
Spectator Award. How do you maintain that level of quality control? 3. W hen solving business problems you must be proactive
LD: One of the things that helped our franchisees is a great relationship rather than sitting and waiting for someone else to solve
between us and corporate. Half are corporate owned and half are privately the problem.
owned. We buy a lot of wine in Canada and our people understand what 4. M y ending is always the word Lagniappe, a New Orleans
the market is. We have a balance. We have TasteMaker Dinners, pairing word that means you are adding a little something extra to
our steaks with wine and champagne. That also helps to keep quality the transaction.
In the Ruth’s Chris tradition, the last bite is indeed as good as the first.
Come hungry, Darlin’! www.ruthschris.ca

64 dinemagazine.ca

BATHURST ST Set in the beauty and allure of Thornhill,
Wigston Green is a collection of 17 homes on

60’ and 80’ lots. Modern touches &
award-winning craftsmanship come
together to create an exclusive enclave

of stunning estate homes.

3Only lots remain.

407 ETR

FLAMINGO RD

1.877.702.7870 Reserve your private appointment today.

View more Remington projects at remingtongroupinc.com

12

All That Glitters is Gold 3

Sikong Tu of the Tang Dynasty once said to a poetic friend, “you cannot speak of poetry
if you cannot tell taste.” Golden Court, with its lavish décor, sparkling chandeliers, and
dazzling display of Cantonese craftsmanship brings out the poet and the palate in us all

E NTERING THE OPULENT Golden Court Abalone As it dries, it shrinks to 1/4 of its weight. The longer you dry it, the more PHOTOGRAPHY, ALFRED CHOW
Restaurant, we are ready to place ourselves in the hands money it is worth. A 20 year-old abalone can cost more than $10,000. His-
of masters of authentic Cantonese cuisine. Peter Tam has torically available only to emperors, it is steadily gaining in popularity in
promised to guide us through a menu of spectaculars, rare North America, simply because of its exclusivity factor.
dishes that one might find in a traditional fine-dining restaurant in China.
Golden Court is renowned among aficionados for true-to-source cooking The best abalone in the world comes from Japan. “Since Fukushima
and its specialty: dried abalone. happened,” says Tam, “They don’t harvest enough abalone to export any-
more.” He asks rhetorically, “So where do you get it from?” And answers
Dried abalone is rehydrated in cold water for five to seven days, then emphatically, “The past!” At this time, Tam has acquired enough abalone
carefully cooked for two to three days to make it soft and tender. Served in storage to last for decades. For now, “If you want to taste it,” says Tam,
with fanfare, it is our first course. The flavour is mysterious; hard to “You have to come here or go back in time.” That is why it is so expen-
describe; it is delicate with an essence of the sea, akin to a scallop, but the sive—because it is so rare. Tam is the biggest supplier of abalone in Can-
texture of the flesh is firm. Its most striking feature is its smooth luxuri- ada, and supplies 80% of the restaurants in Toronto.
ous texture. It is low in fat and, we are told, has many health benefits for
our eyes and skin. Cantonese cuisine is lively, refined, requires craftsmanship and offers
the widest selection of Chinese dishes. This kitchen has outdone itself
We’re treated to a display of four different kinds of dried Abalone. with extravagant presentations. Every detail of each plate is meticu-
The smallest, from Iwate Prefecture in Japan,
is known for its richness of its flavour. The lously tended. Cuttle fish stuffed with shrimp
largest, from South Africa, has a more meaty mousse is beset within a garland of vibrant
consistency. There is range of quality and green broccoli overlooked by two duelling
preparation for this, the world’s most expen- dragons carved and sculpted from carrots.
sive gastropod mollusk. I can’t believe I ate a Colossal stir-fried shrimp rest on a raft of Chi-
$900 abalone. nese broccoli. Huge plump scallops, lighted
dusted with spice, are arranged as the catch
From our seats at the table, dried abalone of a carrot-sculpted fisherman. The time and
is a luxury edible. However, traders in comes- effort required for presentation is as inspiring
tibles see dried abalone as an investment. to the eye as the ingredients are to the palate.
Harvested in only a handful of countries. It
takes a minimum of 21 days to dry abalone. Golden Court relies on fresh flavours and
exquisite presentation rather than aggressive

SPONSORED

spicing. Classic dishes served table-side by well trained staff extend the are the Cantonese dishes that we mix and match. Since many ingredients
flare of the kitchen to the front of house as traditional dishes like Peking are seasonal, the menu changes at least four times per year, and there are
duck, whole roasted suckling pig, and deep fried crispy pigeon are served frequently new items on the menu. Dining at Golden Court is a social and
to surrounding tables. For our table, the richest chicken soup we’ve ever culinary delight, and also reflects the yum cha tradition of tea service that
tasted seduces us. Two hundred chickens are cooked in the base, along pairs with dim sum. High quality jasmine, pu-erh, and green teas are all
with Chinese preserved ham, for five days. The result is a clean and aromatic and nutraceutical.
intensely concentrated stock that soothes the soul.
At Golden Court we indulge in authentic Cantonese cuisine from dim
In ancient times weary travellers would stop along the Silk Road for tea sum to roast duck and that rarest of oceanic gems, abalone.
and small bites. A tradition grew. Friends would get together and sample a
variety of flavourful dishes. Dim Sum became a pastime, an art form, and Golden Court
an accessible luxury. In Toronto the options are few. We want authentic- 270 West Beaver Creek Rd, Richmond Hill, ON L4B 3Y9
ity, but we need clean, fresh and healthy. Dim sum is made for sharing, as www.goldencourt.ca

SPONSORED

›DESTINATIONS the world’s largest freshwater
archipelago, offers endless
for Family Activities in Ontario boating, hiking and cycling
along wooded trails. Midland
Ontario is as diverse Tours offers boat cruises. The
as it is vast. Each Wye Marsh is a quiet protected
wetland for walking and paddling
region, each county as well as an education centre to
offers unique appreciate birds, turtles and frogs
in their natural habitat. At Rounds
experiences unlike Ranch there is a petting zoo, and
that of anywhere all sorts of activities from tractor
else. Here are five rides to pony rides, pedal cart
destinations for the races to duck races, and obstacle
whole family to enjoy. courses to corn mazes. Castle
Village and Enchanted Kingdom
› WATERLOO city centre was Canada’s first Amethyst Mine Panorama. Jump Park features a wooded trail to PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF EXPLORE WATERLOO REGION (BUGGY); WYE MARSH WILDLIFE CENTRE (FALCON); BROCKVILLE TOURISM (TUNNEL)
railway tunnel, and is now part of out of a textbook and into 1816 at
The Mennonite history is integral the Brock Trail System. We pass Fort William Historical Park, childhood fairytales.
to the development of Ontario. through coloured lights and the an interactive living museum of There are archery games
Ride a horse-drawn trolley to Old sound of a train barrelling straight 42 authentically reconstructed in the woods; medieval
Order Mennonite Farms and a toward us. Rent canoes, kayaks, buildings on a 25-acre site. All armoury artifacts; a zip
sugar bush to tap and taste maple or take a river cruise through The those working at this trading post line and a slack line; and
syrup and snow toffee. The St. 1000 Islands and view castles, are churning butter, baking bread, escape games. Midland is
Jacob’s Farmer’s Market is the mansions, and lighthouses. chopping wood, building canoes also home of the Butter
largest agricultural market in Fifteen of the islands along the and preparing for meals and a Tart Festival. There are
Canada. Bring your appetite. Walk shores of Brockville are available rendezvous with dignitaries. plenty of these sweet
or cycle trails into the quiet of for picnicking and camping. www.visitthunderbay.com pastries to be found.
Ontario’s past. Explore shops and www.brockvilletourism.com gbay.ca
crafts of St. Jacob’s, from the Quilt › MIDLAND
Museum to the Maple Syrup › THUNDER BAY › GEORGINA
Museum. The Aberfoyle Model The inspiration of The Group of
Railway is the most intricate and Cradled between Lake Superior Seven and the gateway to Located at the southern
amazing “0-scale layout” in North and the Canadian Shield are six 30, 000 islands of Georgian Bay, end of Lake Simcoe,
America. In nearby Kitchener, Provincial Parks with endless Georgina Island’s
THEMUSEUM features five possibilities for hiking, cycling and Nanabush Trails follow
floors of interactive exhibitions, paddling, and in winter, fat biking the path of the Chippewa
programs and events for and ice climbing. Outdoor Skills to a wigwam village and
children and families to inspire and Thrills guides us to the Mecca wildlife viewing, as well
imagination and education. of climbing in North America in as provide opportunities
www.explorewaterlooregion.com any season. Rent a boat from Sail for learning about the
Superior to sail along the rugged history, culture and
› BROCKVILLE coastline. There are 150,000 nature of the island.
lakes and rivers in the region Clearwater Farm
Dive Brockville Adventure for the best fishing in Ontario. emphasizes place-based
Centre leads us to countless The largest amethyst deposit in learning and provides
shipwrecks from the St. Lawrence Canada is here. Grab a bucket and unique experiences from
River shipping route for some digging tools for rock hounding at planting in the herb
of the best fresh water diving in garden to building forts,
the world, as well as to Centeen and from unstructured
Park, Canada’s first underwater digging in the dirt to
sculpture park, which includes yoga at sunset. The aim
human sculptures. The Brock is to connect children
Railway Tunnel underneath the with nature, eco-friendly
choices and growing healthy food.
My son would never try kale,
and now he's eating it out of the
ground! Nearby, The Roc offers
a range of outdoor sports from a
climbing wall, and a low and high
ropes course in summer to tubing,
tobogganing and skiing in winter.
There are ample opportunities
for fishing and leisurely hiking in
Sibbald Point Provincial Park.
For the ultimate rush, rent a jet ski
from Lake Simcoe Watersport
Rentals and rev up screams of
excitement.
www.georgina.ca
By Adam Waxman

68 dinemagazine.ca

T ORONTO IS Ultimate Family Durham Heritage Railway. All
CROWNED by Road Trips aboard! The train whistles as
the vast expanse we sit back to enjoy dinner
of York Durham and a themed ride. There
Headwaters’ undulating are several family trains, and
hills, woods and farmland. kiddie-themed trains like
It is bejewelled with apple Day out With Thomas™, Fall
orchards and sugar shacks. It Colours, Polar Express Train
is ribboned with bike trails, Ride and Santa Trains.
hiking and romantic getaways
that entice us. Here are three HEADWATERS REGION
awesome itineraries for family There are six to eight varieties
adventure. (Check each one of apples at Spirit Tree Estate
for schedule and hours of Cidery from which to pick
operation) our own and fill either 5lb or
20lb-bags. After apple picking,
YORK REGION we relax in the Ciderhouse
Our day begins at Brooks Bistro with salt-cured maple
Farms to fill our bags with Durham: Pathways on Pleasure Valley leaves fried in cider tempura
batter and drizzled with
the freshest Ontario produce, maple syrup. Add to that
while the kids discover the apple cinnamon buns, crisp
Playland. Bounding across pizza, local Limousin beef
giant jumping pillows, climbing burgers, a Croque Monsieur
straw pyramids, riding cars of toasted apple bread, apple
and trains, playing with farm smoked cheddar, smoked
animals and getting lost in ham, and shredded apple in
the corn maze is exhausting cider Mornay sauce, and a
for us, but exhilarating for wood-oven baked Normandy
apple bread made with cider,
them. A picnic on the grounds chopped apples and honey
to go. It’s all so delicious,
is in order before heading and begs for pairings with
to Treetop Trekking to apple cider (blended and
climb the Treewalk Village, single varietals,) and pear
and pumpkin ciders. A few
tree-wee low-rope obstacle minutes away, the newly
constructed Badlands Trail
course and zip line in arboreal leaves us awestruck with
bliss. Afterwards, a visit to wonderment at the unique
nearby King Cole Ducks Ltd York: Treetop geological phenomenon of
should be obligatory. Their Trekking Stouffville the rusty red Cheltenham
range of products is amazing: Badlands. Inspired, we
Headwaters: Spirit Tree Estate Cidery head to the Alton Mill Arts
Centre. There are twenty-
from duck eggs, sausages, five studio artists, galleries
burgers, smoked breasts, and a heritage museum to
legs and wings to spadini explore at leisure, as well as
classes and workshops in
and duck pizza. For a unique pottery, watercolours and
interactive dining experience encaustic painting for us
we head to Market & Co. to express our creativity. A
luxury stay at Hockley Valley
in the Upper Canada Mall. Resort promises panoramic
It’s a combination of chef’s views, invigorating hiking and
hall and farmers market with exceptional farm-to-table
eighteen artisans from bakers dining. (80% of the ingredients
to shuckers and market- on the menu come from the
onsite fruit and vegetable farm.)
fresh restaurants. As night The resort is renowned for its spa
falls the stars shine at David services, range of amenities and
Dunlap Observatory, the activities, and the Adamo Estate
Winery. In winter, snow covers
largest telescope in Canada, the rolling hills for skiing and
where Family Night programs snowboarding. In summer, the
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF CENTRAL COUNTIES TOURISM introduce us to the wonders golf course beckons.
of the world of astronomy. www.yorkdurhamheadwaters.ca

DURHAM REGION crisps and dumplings are available are age and height-appropriate.
in the Apple Market. Munching For the older kids and the young
Armed with a list of available at heart there’s even a course for
apple varieties and an empty on our apples, we tower above combat archery! We’ve packed
the Oak Ridges Moraine at a lunch and make our way to
half-bushel bag from Archibald’s Treetop Eco-Adventure Park, and Pathways on Pleasure Valley
Orchard & Winery we’re free to navigate through twelve obstacles for a picnic in tranquility. Horses
roam through the orchard and in the trees: suspension bridges, await us for a serene trail ride
fill it with 20lbs of fruit. Fresh- through 225 acres of breathtaking
pressed sweet cider, a range of log and Tarzan rope swings, cargo landscape. It’s a short jaunt from
nets, barrels, floating logs, J ropes, horseback riding to the York
hard ciders and iced apple wine, ladders and platforms, and a zip
and warm aromatic apple pie,
line all the way down. Courses

SPONSORED

IT WAS AN AUSPICIOUS to steep in our tea. Drinking
DAY. Hoisted from the in our walk in the woods,
dock by ropes and men, a we then choose from local,
7300 lb round of Ontario sustainably harvested boards
cheddar from Ingersoll set sail to carve in the workshop. I’m
from the New York harbour partial to cherry wood. Time
toward England. It was 1866. flies when you’re sanding, but
There had been a cheese it’s wonderfully meditative
embargo during the Civil War. to chisel at the knots, split
American cheese production the bark with a vintage
had fallen dramatically. Ontario drawknife, sand and polish
farmers in Ingersoll saw an this beautiful piece of wood
opportunity. What better way to all its lustre. Perfectly
to get noticed than to churn 35 timed, a cornucopia of local
tons of milk into a 6ft 10 inch produce, cheese and meats is
wide, 3 ft high round, present set on the most gorgeously
it at the New York State Fair, carved boards that set our
and then roll it across the palates and imaginations
English countryside? Piece by whirling. We sample Gunn’s
piece, Ontario cheddar made Hill’s Cabernet Merlot-
its mark, and would forever put soaked, cedar-aged Tipsy.
Canada on the world map of Modelled after the Swiss
cheese. Today Oxford County Mutchli, its buttery notes
in Ontario’s Southwest is still are sealed in an essence of
known as the Dairy Capital of wine that creates quite a
Canada, and home of the great Oxford unique and pleasing effect.
Cheese Trail. Another rich and creamy
Swiss-influenced cheese
Sinking into an ambrosial is 5 Brothers, hand crafted
hot chocolate at Habitual County washed rind cow’s milk,
Chocolate, Chocolatier combining Appenzeller with
Philippe Lehner shares with Gouda. I could be happy with
me his joy in ruining his
customers’ taste for grocery THE DAIRY CAPITAL OF CANADA a brick of this.
store chocolate. “It’s not The range of cheese
about eating the whole bar in in Oxford County is vast.
front of the TV at night,” he Some Gouda Advice from Ontario’s Big Cheese: At Mountainoak Cheese
tells me, “It’s about savouring bring a cooler, because you’ll want to take it all home. we sample from eighteen
each piece.” His hand-made flavours of Gouda with
selection of bean-to-bar ingredients that I never
chocolates, that he packages would have imagined, like
on-site, is the largest in Canada.
All are soy, nut and gluten free. celery, fenugreek, mustard,
A few are even Keto-friendly. and black truffle. Each time
He roasts the beans, adds the I think I’ve decided which
cocoa butter and cane sugar, one is coming home with
and that’s it. And yet, the me, I fall for another. None
flavour profiles of
each bar have depth, of them are “one note.” The
complexity, richness and Chili Pepper Smoked is, on
smooth mouth-feel. the front end, creamy and

In the true spirit of the mild, but then reveals an
Cheese Trail, Habitual’s Upper envelopment of applewood
Thames bar is used in Upper smoke, followed by a red
Thames Brewing Company’s pepper finish.
Dark Side Chocolate Stout. Canada’s oldest registered
That beer is then sent to
Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese for independent cheese
their beer soaked cheese, Dark company, Bright Cheese
Side of the Moo, which is then and Butter, has maintained
artfully presented at restaurant
Six Thirty Nine. award-winning cheese like
aged cheddar, asiago, colby,
Comfortably perched at the Monterey jack, feta and
counter within Upper Thames havarti since 1874. Here we
Brewing, amidst a distinctly while the Dead Reckoning OPA, cheese, provides the perfect sample organic grass-fed cheddar,
refined Canadian ambience of smooth, refreshing and clean, and taste of place.
polished wood, we sample beer made with all-Ontario malt and Off to make a charcuterie and the squeakiest cheese curds
that sings for pairings. The Dark that are begging to be melted
Side Stout evokes a pairing with hops, would marry perfectly with board! At Tree to Table we into poutine. What makes this
an espresso-crusted venison loin, a lamb burger with mint and feta. walk through the calm of the
cheese so rich? Whole milk. Very
Seasonal options dot the menu. Carolinian forest to learn about few dairies are still making real
One flight of beer quenches the surrounding nature while cheddar with it. Bright uses Swiss
our palates and, combined with snacking on locally baked Dutch Alpine cultures and doesn’t skim.
a charcuterie board with local stroopwaffels and plucking leaves There’s a line up out the door for

SPONSORED

the curds, but I’m lost in a dreamy to pamper every skin type. Have
state like when I was a child and you ever heard of felted-soap?
my mom would let me have a Here we get to make our own.
piece of cheese to tide me over Packing a ball of soap ends; we
before dinner. then choose different coloured
strips of wool to pierce into the
Every cheese maker on soap for a gentle exfoliant. Each
the trail is featured at Charles blend of soaps and colours is
Dickens Pub. Classic British sweet smelling and totally unique.
fare never had it so good as
this kitchen proudly serves With its ruby volcanic stone
generously portioned farm-to- exterior and Queen Anne Revival
table ingredients. A piping hot style architecture, Chateau
plate of melted Gunn’s Hill Brie, la Motte is a rare jewel. We
crowned with sliced strawberries must pause to admire the
and a sprinkling of almonds, is craftsmanship of every elegantly
accompanied by warm fresh tended accoutrement from floor
bread to scoop up all the gooey to ceiling. Each historic room
goodness. Chicken Pot Pie offers old world charm without
with smooth mashed potato, sacrificing new world amenities.
enlivened with Mountain Oak It’s a cozy step back in time, but
Gouda, is so rich and sultry; our more comfortable and polished
palates are in heaven. than it ever was. Centrally
located, the balcony from my
We walk through the process room is the perfect perch from
of cheese making inside the which to enjoy a glass of wine
antique cheese factory at the and breathe in the quiet.
Ingersoll Cheese Museum,
while in the old schoolhouse we The buzz in Woodstock is
learn the stories and lifestyle of around Six Thirty Nine. This is
another time. By exploring the the pinnacle of Ontario farm-
history of cheese in Ontario, we to-table cuisine. Chef Eric Boyar
glean a better understanding of works hand in glove with local
the politics around it today and farmers to present quality with
the huge role that cheese plays in wow-factor. His creativity and
Canada, from our farmers to our velvet touch are praiseworthy.
home kitchens. Grilled Focaccia is like an open
jewellery box of local Planet
From the Cheese Playground Shrimp, smoked mussels, grilled
at the museum we head to scapes, saffron potato rouille
Truffle Camp at Chocolatea. and tomato preserve. The best
Using local cream and local arancini I’ve ever tasted comes
ingredients, small batch fresh with a prefect cornmeal crunch
cream truffles of such clever enveloping Smoked 5 Brothers,
flavour combinations change and accented with pickled
frequently. While we admire walnuts, blue cheese aioli and
chocolatier and tea sommelier, smoked honey. Sweet Breads
Cindy Walker, for all her decadent are lightly fried with crab apple
confections, today, we get to soy glaze. Duck breast is honey
become the chocolatiers and glazed and accompanied by
create our own take home Gouda tortellini, hazelnuts and
delectables. On an enthusiastic burnt honey jus. Each dish is a
local recommendation, I turn work of art. We can taste every
the corner and step into another ingredient, and the confluence of
world. Patina’s Gifts of Art & all their luxurious textures.
Craft is a Bohemian enclave
brimming with a beautiful When Thomas Ingersoll
selection of ceramics and blown moved to Oxford County in
glass by local artists, a range of 1793, he brought his two cows
hip clothes, jewellery and home with him. Before long Oxford’s
décor, and a section devoted to Township of Norwich would
children’s toys and books that will be the site of Canada’s first
make me the coolest dad ever. cheese factory. An industry soon
flourished that would forever
Oxford County is full of define Ontario on the world
industrious artisans inspired stage. They say the second
by local ingredients. True to its mouse gets the cheese, and yet,
name, Wild Comfort Body Care the Cheese Trail churns epicurean
offers hand crafted herbal and delights for insatiable cheese
botanical bath teas to steep into lovers at every stop along the
aromatic bliss; shampoo bars way. www.tourismoxford.ca
made from natural oils; and an www.ontariossouthwest.com
assortment of serums and lotions

SPONSORED

Warm
In The Dry

Cold of
WINNIPEG

W ith a smile and a wink, ‘Peggers only sound is the crunch of hard snow under the shore of the forks in 1738, and proclaimed it
ask visitors, “Cold enough for my boots. Minus 30 C, with brilliant sunshine, Fort Rouge. As more forts were built, it became
ya?” But it’s no joke. It was Feb- it’s an average winter day in Winnipeg. “It’s a known as the Red River Colony. The Forks was
ruary when I brought my hus- dry cold,” the locals say unapologetically, proud the hub of the booming fur trade in the 1800s,
to own the best kind of cold there is. The bright and the abundance of game, fish and waterfowl
band to Winnipeg for the first time. My dad was sunlight reflecting off the snow fools me into and bison attracted more settlers. The Nakoda
so concerned about his wellbeing in 30 degrees thinking it’s warm. Amazing that folks are skat- (Assiniboines), Cree, Anishinaabe and Dakota,
below zero weather, that he gave him a gift of a ing, laughing, holding hands, and embracing walked right here, where the Assiniboine flows
Buffalo fur coat. winter. They lace up their skates and play Cro- into the Red, following the vast herds of bison.
quicurl on the rink in front of the Forks Market, The Forks became the meeting place for social-
The welcome at The Inn At The Forks is a local game that’s a cross between croquet and izing and commerce, just as it had been 6000
warm and friendly with a fireplace lit, and a curling. Okay, I shall be a good sport and take years earlier, when the bison hunters walked
generous cheese and charcuterie tray on the an afternoon stroll along the frozen river. We along these frozen rivers. Just as it is today.
coffee table. Smith, the dining room, is one of pause in the architecturally designed Warming
Canada’s best-kept secrets. The sophisticated, Sheds, built by winners of annual international It was a mere thirty years ago that develop-
sparkling fresh, farm to table philosophy of the contests. “Warming” is a misnomer; they sim- ers with vision took over these old abandoned
chef, and his balanced, creative presentations ply provide shelter from the elements. You railway yards and created a unique waterfront
are a delightful surprise. I remind myself that won’t find a heater installed on a frozen river. that is the pride of the city. Today it’s a vibrant
we are in a Canadian prairie city, not New York. downtown public space where people gather
We learned about our heritage in grade for celebrations, recreation and, much like
It’s a five-minute walk to The Forks Market, school: How La Verendrye pulled his canoe in to the early Indigenous Peoples, to meet one
past the Johnson Terminal, past The Children’s
Museum, past the world-renowned Human another. It encompasses an interpretive
Rights museum and into the vast two- park, revitalized historic and new build-
story mall. You won’t find fast food chains ings, skateboard park, historic port, and a
here. Local restaurants bring Manitoba host of year-round outdoor and indoor
foods to the table: Bison Stew, Wild Rice attractions.
Bread, hotdogs from Skinners, purveyors
of hotdogs since 1929, and a lively wine Ex-‘Peggers have a code. No one leaves
and beer program, expertly curated by without taking home the culinary emblems
world-renowned Sommelier, Veronique of the city: Winnipeg Goldeye and a Jean-
Rivest. With an award-winning career nie’s Cake.
spanning 30 years, Rivest expertly designs
each quarterly list to reflect the chang- There is something in the air that brings
ing seasons and offers guests what has out the friendliness in Winnipegers, some-
become a wildly popular, elevated tasting thing hardwired into our brains. Naturally,
experience. the license plates say Friendly Manitoba.
www.tourismwinnipeg.com
At mid-day there is total quiet. The
By Sara Waxman

72 dinemagazine.ca

Dans la avec expertise par la sommelière de renommée marché de la Fourche : c’est un jeu local hybride
chaleur du mondiale Véronique Rivest. Dotée de 30 ans entre le croquet et le curling. Allez d’accord, je
froid sec de de carrière aux multiples récompenses, Rivest vais être bonne joueuse et faire une promenade
WINNIPEG élabore avec expertise chaque liste trimestrielle cet après-midi sur la rivière gelée. Nous nous
pour refléter le changement des saisons et offrir arrêtons dans les « Warming Huts », œuvres
Avec un sourire et un clin d’œil les à ses clients une expérience gustative de haut architecturales bâties par les vainqueurs des
Winnipégois s’adressent aux visi- calibre, qui est devenue très populaire. concours annuels internationaux. Attention,
teurs : « Alors, il fait assez froid pour il n’y a rien de chaud dans ces « Warming huts
vous? ». Et ce n’est pas une blague. A midi c’est le silence total. Le seul bruit »; ce sont tout simplement des abris contre
est le craquement de la neige durcie sous mes les intempéries. Vous ne trouverez pas un seul
C’était en février que j’avais amené mon mari bottes. Avec une température de moins 30°C, appareil de chauffage sur une rivière gelée.
pour la première fois. Mon père était tellement sous un soleil éclatant, c’est une journée d’hiver
inquiet pour sa santé dans cette température de moyenne à Winnipeg. « C’est un froid sec » cla- Nous avons appris l’histoire de notre patri-
30 degrés en-dessous de zéro, qu’il lui avait of- ment avec aplomb les habitants locaux, fiers de moine à l’école primaire : comment La Verend-
fert un manteau en fourrure de buffle. posséder la meilleure sorte de froid du genre. La rye arriva en canoë sur les rives de La Fourche
réflexion de la lumière éblouissante du soleil sur en 1738, qu’il appela Le Fort Rouge. Après la con-
L’accueil de l’auberge At The Forks est chal- la neige me laisse à penser à tort qu’il fait chaud. struction d’autres forts, la région fut connue
eureux et amical avec son feu de cheminée et son Incroyable tous ces gens qui font du patin à sous le nom de la Colonie de la Rivière Rouge.
plateau bien garni de fromage et de charcuterie glace, rient, se prennent par la main et profitent La Fourche devint l’épicentre d’un commerce
posé sur une table de salon. Smith, la salle à de l’hiver. Ils enfilent leurs patins et jouent au « de fourrures très prospère dans les années 1800
manger, est un des secrets les mieux gardés du Croquicurl » dans la patinoire située devant le et l’abondance du gibier, des poissons et des
Canada. La philosophie de la fourche à la four- oiseaux aquatiques et des bisons attira encore
chette, raffinée, et d’une vive fraîcheur, conçue plus de colons. Les Nakodas (Assiniboines),
par le chef et ses créations bien présentées et les Cris, les Anichinabés et les Dakotas ont par-
originales sont une surprise délicieuse. Je dois couru ce territoire à pied, là où la rivière Assini-
me rappeler que nous sommes dans une ville boine se jette dans la Rivière Rouge, en suivant
des Prairies canadiennes et non pas à New York. les énormes troupeaux de bisons. La Fourche
était devenue le lieu de rencontre pour se faire
C’est à cinq minutes à pied du des amis et faire du commerce, exactement
Marché de la Fourche en passant comme pendant 6,000 ans auparavant quand
devant le Johnson Terminal, Le Musée les chasseurs de bisons longeaient ces rivières
des Enfants, le musée des Droits de gelées. Exactement encore comme aujourd’hui.
l’homme de renommée mondiale
avant d’entrer dans le vaste centre Il y a seulement 30 ans que les promoteurs
commercial à deux étages. Ici vous ne immobiliers projetèrent leur vision en s’em-
trouverez pas de chaînes de restau- parant de ces vieilles cours de triage abandon-
ration rapide. Les restaurants locaux nées et créèrent un secteur riverain exception-
mettent sur la table les produits ali- nel qui fait la fierté de la ville. Aujourd’hui c’est
mentaires du Manitoba : ragoût de un vibrant espace public au centre-ville où les
bison, pain de riz sauvage, des hotdogs gens se réunissent pour des fêtes et des loisirs
de chez Skinners, fournisseurs de et, tout comme les Premières Nations d’antan,
hotdogs depuis 1929, et une carte frin- se rencontrer. Il comprend un parc d’inter-
gante de vin et de bière, sélectionnée prétation, des bâtiments historiques revitalisés
et nouveaux, un planchodrome, un port his-
torique et une myriade de divertissements en
plein air et en salle tout au long de l’année.

Les « Ex-Peggers » (les Winnipégois exilés)
possèdent un code. Personne ne s’en va sans
avoir emporté les emblèmes culinaires de la
ville : la « laquaiche aux yeux d’or de Winnipeg
» et le gâteau de Jeanne.

Il y a quelque chose dans l’air qui fait res-
sortir la convivialité des Winnipégois, quelque
chose dans nos gènes. Et bien sûr la plaque
d’immatriculation dit « Friendly Manitoba
Bienvenue »
www.tourismwinnipeg.com

Par Sara Waxman

dinemagazine.ca 73

QUEBEC
CITY

The Romance
of History

"We’re going to build a wall,
and France will pay for it."
So said French explorer
Samuel de Champlain, or

words to that effect.

A T THE CONVERGENCE of the sented on an opulent cheese and charcuterie a half dozen to take home with me.
St. Lawrence and St. Charles Riv- board. Dinner tonight is in the Champlain Right from the start, it’s clear that the two
ers, Champlain built a medieval dining room, domain of Michelin Star Chef
castle-like structure, called The Stephane Moldat. One cannot help but feel like young owners of Bistro L’Orygine march to
Habitation. To protect the settlers from indige- a star dining in this handsome environment. their own drummer. An undulating, uphol-
nous threats, he built a wall around it. The year Wherever the eye falls there are artifacts, carv- stered green banquet cuts through the middle
was 1608. ings and polished wood architectural details. A of the room, and looks just right in the airy,
presentation of New Brunswick Acadian Stur- carefully lit space. The menu holds surprises
After the Battle of the Plains of Abraham geon, with blinis and an array of accoutrements even for a professional food writer. Roasted
in 1759, the British took Quebec City from the seems fitting. Seared foie gras from Marieville is fresh whole carrots are arranged with other
French and continued to build permanent to be savoured slowly with the tang of marinated vegetables: raw, roasted and marinated, all sing-
walls that still stand today. A third conflict, the Northern fruits, balanced with caramelized ing with herbs and seasonings. Scallop ceviche,
famous War of 1812, fought between the United almonds and a puff of cedar powder. Icelandic translucent and frail, gets some strong support
States and Great Britain solidified the British cod is encrusted with herbs and nuts from Cap from heirloom radishes and tangy dill crème
sovereignty. Tourmente, and balanced with a veloute of Jeru- fraiche. An interesting composition of flavours
salem artichoke, leeks, and a drizzle of browned is roast lamb set on tataki, tossed with a hand-
From my hotel room window I watch soft onion oil. There is an extravagance of desserts ful of green peas, capped with fresh ricotta and
snowflakes blanket the streets. At breakfast to choose from, and a few tastes tell me that this adorned with wild cumin. There is much more
in The Place Dufferin, I order a Mimosa and pastry chef is an artist of note. With a seasonal on the menu that intrigues me, but it’s all an
drink a toast to William Van Horne, President menu that is ever changing, Champlain offers a invitation to return. We’re invited to go into
of Canadian Pacific Railway, who, 125 years ago year of culinary hits. an adjoining room that I would call dessert
built Le Chateau Frontenac. heaven. An array of pastries and a gelato and
The streets in the heart of Old Quebec sorbet counter, the kind one sees in Italy, winks
New York architect, Bruce Price (father of are quiet. Cars do not honk, and the sidewalks and sparkles and says, “Choose me.” And while
Emily Post) immortalized the history of France are filled with locals and groups of tourists, it’s the most trying decision I’ve made today, I
and Britain in his design. The world’s most pres- enjoying the first snowfall. Always on the choose well.
tigious guests, kings and queens, prime minis- lookout for old china, I pop into antique shops
ters, presidents, movie stars and other luminar- and browse the art galleries and boutiques. I won’t say goodbye to this charming
ies have laid their heads on luxurious pillows in The fresh croissants I see through the window city, rich with the romance of history, just
these royal suites. Eventually, modernization of Boulangerie Paillard are seductive. I buy au revoir. www.quebecregion.com
was in order, and in 2014, a 75 million dollar revi- By Sara Waxman
talization transformed the lobby, restaurants
and more, while preserving the heritage.

Cocktails at 1608, the hotel’s beautiful bar
overlooking the frozen St. Lawrence River, is
lively this late afternoon. Renowned for its vast
selection of Quebec cheese, several are pre-

74 dinemagazine.ca

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A Nordik

OASIS

One day here is like a passport around
the world via spa treatments

S TRETCHING OUT in a wave of heat and natural environment. There are numerous resting places here, and
and steam I am whipped relentlessly Inside, down a quiet staircase, I enter an napping is encouraged. A calm yoga room and
with birch branches. There are many meditation room are also available. Alas, it’s
wellness rituals and relaxation tech- ambient dark lit pool of epsom salt in 1,200 time for my massage. Walking along a snowy
niques at the Nordik Spa-Nature, the largest cubic feet of water, held at 37 º C. Reminiscent trail I reach a warm private cabin in which my
spa in North America. This is one of them. of the Dead Sea, this flotation therapy, called deep tissue massage kneads me back to sleep.
Källa Treatment, expels toxins from the body, Have I ever been so physically relaxed in my
Nestled in the picturesque village of Old relaxes the nervous system, reduces swelling, life? I don’t think so. I’m sure there are 1000
Chelsea in the Outaouais on the outskirts and soothes muscles. There is no more effec- messages on my phone right now, and I could
of Gatineau Park, there is an intimacy here. tive way to relieve pressure than to be totally not care less.
This relaxation and wellness centre is mainly weightless. I muster up my trust, gingerly step
focused on thermotherapy and relaxation tech- in and lie down, floating slowly and peacefully I am noticeably breathing more fully, and
niques from Scandinavian countries. It offers like a rubber duckie. Disconcerting at first, I am actually feeling more balanced and cen-
a multisensory experience in a natural setting gradually let go into a deep sleep. This-is-in- tered. Now, it’s time for my whipping. The
and is aimed at contributing to the health and credible. I awake sometime later feeling as Banyä Treatment is a Russian ritual for improv-
wellbeing of its guests. We all come with differ- though all my knots are released. ing blood circulation, cleansing the skin,
ent desires, and in keeping with the basic Spa eliminating toxins, and boosting the immune
elements, the grounds are divided into three Taking my time, I browse each sauna as system. As the heat rises in intensity, The
areas: Kaskad, the quiet zone, Borea, the whisper though I’m window-shopping. Vaporo saunas Aufgussier sweeps it around the room with his
zone, Panorama, the social zone. inspired by the Mediterranean steam bath tra- towel. We then take a break and step outside
dition of purification melt my tension. A gentle for some cool water. Round two. We apply oils
There are rules. No pictures. No talking. And gong summons me to the Finlandia sauna for and salts for exfoliation. There are four steps
certainly no cell phones. While mine is inces- the Aufguss Ritual. I find my seat in anticipation to this treatment, and between each one, we
santly buzzing somewhere in my locker, I am of a performance. The Aufgussier welcomes us can excuse ourselves for a water break. And
drifting away into a deep calm. Thermotherapy and proceeds to place giant aromatic snowballs now, the climax, so to speak, as I lie down on
involves alternating between hot and cold tem- of essential oils onto the hot stones. With each the wooden step as the attendant raises his
peratures followed by a rest period. We can dip one, he then moves around the room with cho- birch veniks and begins whipping my backside!
into each of the Japanese, Mongolian, Russian, reographed towel movements to circulate the It doesn’t hurt as much as it is shocking, and I
Scandinavian and Mediterranean saunas and hot air. Wow! Wave upon wave of heat washes have to laugh, because I have elected to do this
baths at leisure. over me, and I am totally reinvigorated. voluntarily. However, when I stand up, my body
feels recharged and powerful. I feel fantastic,
Walking outside in frigid temperatures in Time for lunch. Within the bistro of happy rejuvenated, revived and refreshed. I am ready
only a robe and slippers I immerse myself in faces, I select from a healthy menu of pastas, to take on the world.
a warm water pool set in the rocks—in win- salads and sandwiches, all with wine pairing www.lenordik.com
ter—in the snow. There are ten picturesque recommendations. I indulge in a succulent
baths, hot and cold, and one infinity pool bison medallion with blueberry compote and a By Adam Waxman
along a meandering path surrounded by bucolic mellow glass of Tempranillo.

76 dinemagazine.ca

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Forty Eight
Hours in a
COMPANY

TOWN

Le Germain, Le Norca
Bar & Restaurant,
halibut dish (left)

Ottawa is a company town the giant Ottawa sign and the Dancing Bear in There is no set checkout time, they understand
with one major industry. And Jean D’Arc Court. Pauta Saila’s work is the first that guests have lives that don’t conform to
that industry is government. public art by an Inuit artist from Nunuvat to be standard rules.
placed in Ottawa. Fitting, since this morning,
It is also the heart of our a black bear wandered from the woods into There is a Lexus courtesy car available to
arts and culture with an the open air Market. We stroll by the Chateau drive on our own or to be chauffer driven. And
exciting new culinary scene. Lafayette House, Ottawa’s oldest tavern, these are just a few of the unique benefits. Art-
Enticement enough for a opened in 1849. Oh, if these walls could talk, work created by Canadian photographer Julie
what truths we would learn! And the High- Couture adds to the ambiance of gentle comfort
weekend vacation. lander Pub boasts a special service, Husband and the ultra cool Le Germain style.
Day Care Center, while you do your shopping, at
T IME SPENT at the National Gal- no extra charge. A mixology class at the Norca bar sounds
lery is an enriching experience. exciting. This man knows his stuff, as he adds
A feeling of pride and awe at the Lunch at Jackson, the restaurant in the smoke to cocktails, rims glasses with tiny
depth and breadth of our culture Ottawa Art Gallery, is inspired by the major flowering herbs and spices, garnishes with
comes upon me slowly as I meander through collection of A.Y. Jackson and other artworks fruits and vegetables and gives us showman-
the new presentation: Canadian and Indige- in the Gallery. Small and pretty tasting sharing ship that makes every cocktail a visual and
nous Art from Time Immemorial to 1967. Re- plates are the service style at lunch. Vegetarian delicious adventure.
cent acquisitions include a mid-19th centu- and Pescatarian are the focus, and if the tuna
ry ceremonial coat by an unknown Naskapi crudo is on the menu, that would be my choice. Dinner at Norca is a culinary rollercoaster
artist, and Emily Carr’s sketchbook from her Sparkling with freshness, these ruby slices are simply because the premise here is to use only
trip to Alaska in 1907. We reconnect with David splashed with Chia dressing and puffed rice, products that are grown or raised in the area. No
Milne, Jean Paul Riopelle, Joyce Weiland and and partnered on the plate with a tangy salad of lemons or olive oil are grown in Canada, so the
others. There is never enough time, and like cucumber ribbons, pickled ginger and jalapeno. chef has brilliantly sourced ingredients that fit
most visitors I depart saying, “We have to come We’re ready to explore the gallery and have the criteria. A whole fish, stuffed and roasted,
back tomorrow.” some hands-on fun with textiles in an artistic comes to the table festooned with flowers and
workshop. The assignment: choose bits of tex- greens as if it was going to the prom. We’ve seen
Strolling through ByWard Market, we pass tiles from huge baskets and make a collage of the meat aging locker during our kitchen tour,
your journey to Ottawa. Cool. I take mine home and now enjoy a huge sliced, well aged steak
to show my grandson. with morels and fronds of crunchy herbs that
elicit juicy flavours. Looking around the dining
The afternoon ends at the Alt Hotel, the room, it’s clear that hotel guests, first timers at
affordable luxury brand for Group Germain Norca, are thrilled. Dessert is a picture worthy
Hotels. The lobby lounge is like one huge cock- of framing. A frozen, pink confection covered
tail party where people gather to meet, play apple, is set in a yin yang of crumble and rasp-
pool, and socialize. Seems that this is the place berry sauce on a bed of fresh pansies that peer
to be. out at us invitingly.

It feels so good to return to the serenity and Back at the hotel, the Lexus awaits to
loveliness of the Le Germain Hotel. Good taste whisk me to the airport and bid adieu to my
and intelligent design, as well as common sense capital affair.
and caring attitude set this hotel a cut above. www.ottawatourism.ca

By Sara Waxman

78 dinemagazine.ca

Le Germain,
Classic King room,

Byward Market
(below)

Quarante-huit heures
dans une

VILLE-ENTREPRISE

Ottawa est une ville- Carr lors de son voyage en Alaska en 1907. Nous le design intelligent, ainsi que la courtoisie et
entreprise avec une industrie redécouvrons David Milne, Jean-Paul Riopelle, le service impeccable du personnel en font un
majeure, et cette industrie Joyce Weiland et bien d’autres artistes. Je ne établissement exceptionnel. Il n’y a pas d’heure
est le gouvernement. Notre vois pas passer le temps et, comme la plupart de départ définie, ils comprennent que les cli-
des visiteurs, je pars en disant : “Il faudra reve- ents ont une vie hors de l’ordinaire.
capitale est également le nir demain."
cœur de notre vie artistique Une voiture de courtoisie Lexus est à notre
En nous promenant dans le marché By, nous disposition avec ou sans chauffeur. Et ce ne
et culturelle avec une passons devant les lettres géantes “Ottawa” et sont là que quelques-uns des avantages exclu-
nouvelle scène culinaire la sculpture “Ours dansant” exposée dans la sifs. Les œuvres de la photographe canadienne
excitante. Plutôt séduisant cour Jeanne-d’Arc. L’œuvre de Pauta Saila a été Julie Couture sont un merveilleux complément
la première œuvre d’art public réalisée par un à l’ambiance douce et confortable et au style
pour un week-end. artiste inuit du Nunavut installée à Ottawa. Cela ultra-cool de Le Germain.
tombe bien car un ours noir est sorti des bois ce
O TTAWA est une ville-entreprise matin pour se promener dans le marché! Nous Un cours de mixologie au bar Norca semble
avec une industrie majeure, nous rendons au Château Lafayette House, passionnant. Le barman connaît très bien son
et cette industrie est le gou- la plus ancienne taverne d’Ottawa, ouverte en métier, car il sert des cocktails avec fumée, il
vernement. Notre capitale est 1849. Si ses murs pouvaient parler, quels secrets décore les bords des verres avec de minuscules
également le cœur de notre vie artistique et cul- nous révèleraient-ils? Et le pub Highlander herbes en fleurs et des épices, et les garnit de
turelle avec une nouvelle scène culinaire exci- propose un service spécial : une “garderie pour fruits et de légumes dans une mise en scène
tante. Plutôt séduisant pour un week-end. conjoints” pendant que vous faites vos courses, spectaculaire qui fait de chaque cocktail un dél-
et cela sans frais supplémentaires! icieux moment visuel.
Le temps passé au Musée des beaux-arts
est une expérience des plus enrichissantes. Un Le déjeuner au café Jackson de la Galerie Le dîner à Norca est une merveilleuse aven-
sentiment de fierté et d'admiration devant la d'art d'Ottawa s'inspire de la grande collection ture culinaire, car le principe ici est de n'utiliser
diversité et la richesse de notre culture m’enva- de toiles d’A.Y. Jackson et d'autres œuvres de que des produits de la région. On ne cultive pas
hit au fur et à mesure que je parcours la nouvelle la galerie. On y déguste de savoureux plats à de citron ni d'huile d'olive au Canada. Le chef a
exposition “L'art canadien et autochtone des partager dans de jolies assiettes végétariennes donc sélectionné avec brio des ingrédients qui
temps immémoriaux jusqu’en 1967”. Les acqui- et pescatariennes. Je choisis le crudo de thon : répondent aux critères. Un poisson entier, farci
sitions récentes comprennent un manteau céré- étincelantes de fraîcheur, ces tranches couleur et rôti, arrive à la table, agrémenté de fleurs et
monial naskapi du milieu du XIXe siècle par un rubis sont accompagnées d’une vinaigrette au de légumes verts comme s'il allait au bal des
artiste inconnu, et le carnet de croquis d’Emily chia et de riz soufflé. Elles sont associées à la finissants. Lors de notre visite de la cuisine,
saveur acidulée d’une salade de lamelles de con- nous avons vu l’impressionnante chambre de
combre, de gingembre mariné et de jalapeno. maturation de la viande et nous dégustons
Nous explorons ensuite la galerie et participons maintenant un énorme steak bien tranché, bien
à des activités amusantes avec des textiles dans vieilli, avec des morilles et des fines herbes cro-
un atelier artistique. Notre tâche est de choisir quantes qui dégagent des saveurs délicieuse-
des morceaux de textiles dans d’énormes ment juteuses. Dans la salle à manger de l’hôtel,
paniers pour en faire un collage de notre voyage les habitués comme les nouveaux venus sont
à Ottawa. Cool. Je ramène le mien chez moi ravis. Le dessert est une œuvre d’art qui mérite
pour le montrer à mon petit-fils. d’être encadrée. Une pomme surgelée recou-
verte d’une confiserie rose apparaît dans un yin
L'après-midi se termine à l'hôtel Alt, la yang de crumble et de coulis de framboise sur
marque de luxe à prix abordable des hôtels un lit de pensées fraîches que je suis impatiente
du groupe Germain. Le salon du hall est l’ de déguster.
endroit idéal où se rencontrer, jouer au billard
et socialiser. De retour à l'hôtel, la Lexus m’attend pour
me conduire à l'aéroport et dire adieu à mon
C'est si bon de retrouver la sérénité et la amour de capitale. www.ottawatourism.ca
beauté de l'hôtel Le Germain! Le bon goût et Par Sara Waxman

dinemagazine.ca 79

Your Astrological
Travel Guide

Places have distinct character traits just like the signs, and when you choose a destination
based on astrology you are inviting providence and fate to be your travel companions.

M Y DECADES as an astrol- retreat someplace unfamiliar where Explore cultural and natural con- or Albania, because you like to freely PHOTOGRAPHY, MASSON/ADOBESTOCK
oger have shown me you can unwind, meditate and learn servancy in Pimachiowin Aki, the roam fascinating cultural locales
that character is destiny new ways to investigate the most the Boreal Forest that covers parts without bothersome crowds.
Good and purposeful things hap- interesting subject of all – yourself. of Manitoba and Ontario.
pen when your astrological person- Capricorn
ality is allowed to shine. Who Cancer Libra
wouldn’t want to go somewhere (Dec 21 – Jan 21)
that may reveal life purpose and (June 22 – Jul 21) (Sept 21 - Oct 21) Experiencing earth power places
good luck? Your lunar nature appreciates “I must have lived there in a previ- with magnetic energy fascinates
moonlit ancient sites in Greece and ous life.” Listen to your Libran you. Mount Shasta, Lake Louise,
Aries star gazing on warm summer intuition to take a reincarnation Banff, Es Vedra, Ibiza, Lake Titi-
nights. Genealogy inspired travel trip and explore your inexplicable caca and the Arctic Circle’s North-
(Mar 21 – Apr 20) to connect with ancestors from attraction to a “foreign” place. Fate ern Lights will get your compass
The Aries’ Ram horns evoke images the recent and distant past corre- may provide a once in a past life jumping.
of Vikings. Scandinavia’s rugged sponds with your love of history. time experience. Beautiful roman-
natural beauty, modern cities, pro- Choose archeology inspired desti- tic Paris represents Libra’s aes- Aquarius
gressive design and true ecotour- nations like Delphi, Greece, the thetic nature.
ism appeal to your love of authen- Incan capital of Cuzco in Peru and (Jan 22 – Feb 21)
ticity. You prefer action and Allahabad in India. Scorpio Ecotourism appeals to your
adventure packed excursions humanitarian nature and a visit to
because you are a thrill seeker. Leo (Oct 22 – Nov 21) Newfoundland and Labrador in
Scorpio is attracted to the occult late Spring to see the icebergs sepa-
Taurus (Jul 22 – Aug 21) and mysterious destinations. rate, drift and melt (partly due to
Holiday is a favourite Leo word, it Undaunted by the shadowy side of global warming) is meaningful to
(Apr 21 – May 21) personifies your love of fun, plea- life you can easily handle a trip to you. Walking tours and travelling
Italy’s outstanding cuisine, world- sure and excitement. Luxury Salem, Savannah or New Orleans. with a group of likeminded people
class culture and Tuscan landscape splurges and gambling at Monte The enigmatic Sphinx also brings fortunate friendships.
pairs well with your sensual nature. Carlo’s high roller casinos and intrigues you. A born detective,
Visit Florence’s church of San Min- world class atmosphere appeals to Kryptos the puzzling code sculp- Pisces
iato because it has a unique astro- you. Follow your Lion to Africa for ture at the CIA headquarters in
logical floor pavement designed to a safari or sundrenched California Langley, Virginia is worth your (Feb 21 – Mar 20)
commemorate a rare planetary for celebrity watching. investigation. Water paradises are ideal places for
alignment in your sign. Pisces to immerse themselves in
Virgo Sagittarius aquatic sports, fishing, day-dream-
Gemini ing and romantic sensuality. You
(Augt 22 – Sept 20) (Nov 22 – Dec 20) value spiritual and mystical experi-
(May 22 – Jun 21) The UNESCO world heritage sites Sagittarius represents long-dis- ences like summer solstice at
You dread boredom and need to top your well-organized list of itin- tance travel in the zodiac wheel Stonehenge. Ireland’s lush, magi-
travel to a place that piques your eraries. You value travel that sup- of life. Aim toward lesser known cal charm epitomizes the Piscean
curiousity. You also want to chill. ports preservation of the environ- places like Belarus, Moldova, Rus- mystique.
The solution is a wellness spa ment and cultural authenticity. sia, Ukraine, Slovenia, Montenegro By Marcia L. Masino

80 dinemagazine.ca

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