IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY THREE TO TRY Standout stays THE MUSTARD SEED, BALLINGARRY This country house hotel, which sits atop a hill, gives visitors a warm welcome — there’s a roaring ire and a deep blue dining room where their modern Irish makes use of the produce from the organic kitchen gardens. From sash windows to a clutter of thankyou cards on the mantelpiece, it feels like stepping into another era. mustardseed.ie ADARE MANOR, ADARE Is this Ireland’s best ive-star hotel? With its Hogwarts-worthy Gallery, Tom Fazio-designed golf course and cocktail bar by London’s David Collins Studio, a huge investment has lung Adare Manor into the stratosphere. All this comes at a cost, though, so off-season stays or afternoon tea are ways to score luxury for less. adaremanor.com THE BEDFORD TOWNHOUSE, LIMERICK A city stay in a former clothing factory: Peter and Denise Brazil teamed up with local designer Tullio Orlandi to create this 12-bedroom townhouse with local lourishes ranging from its needle-and-thread logo to moody heritage monochromes and Ponaire coffee. Bang in the city centre, it’s perfect for couples, or a rugby weekend away. thebedford.ie Lake of legends ‘Every seven years, so it’s said, Gur demands the heart of a human being.’ So writes Mary Carbery in her 1930s memoir, The Farm by Lough Gur. People have lived around this extraordinary lake, steeped in folklore, for some 6,000 years, and you can’t turn a corner without stumbling on a stone circle, Neolithic settlement, hill fort or a medieval castle. Summer solstice and October storytelling festivals are sweet times to visit. loughgur.com Old Irish ways “Is it a labour of love?” I ask Denis O’Connor. He’s showing me around the Old Irish Ways Museum near Bruf in Caherguillamore. “It’s a disease,” he laughs. Over the past decade, this retired farmer has built an entire museum from scratch in his back garden. Exhibits range from a rebuilt ‘bar without beer’ to old phones, railway signals and grocery packaging. It feels strange at irst, but the nostalgia soon proves seductive. facebook.com/oldirishways Denis O’Connor at Old Irish Ways LEFT: Adare, County Limerick Food, glorious food A foodie crossroads since 1852, Limerick’s Milk Market is a hive of hipster and heritage lavours on Saturdays. Follow a visit with a cup of locally roasted Anam cofee at the Green Onion Café, a local lunch box at Canteen or a gastro pub meal overlooking the water at the Curragower. 1826 Adare, serving contemporary Irish food in a chic cottage, is worth a detour too. milkmarketlimerick.ie wearecanteen.com curragower.com 1826adare.ie May 2019 51
IMAGE: GETTY; ALAMY I’m following in Taylor Swit’s footsteps. It’s not normally how I travel, but tweeting for suggestions before a trip to Limerick, I was tipped of to the Knight’s Walk: a short, two-and-a-half-mile trail starting by the gates of Glin Castle. Apparently, Swit and her boyfriend stayed here last Christmas, and took a romantic stroll around this sweet little circuit. And now here I am, passing a fairy garden, a freshly dug badger’s set and a misty forest as I scale the gentle elevation towards a view over the Shannon Estuary and a lush quilt of west coast farmland. The Swit connection’s just the irst of several surprises along the Shannon Estuary Way, an 87-mile route linking Tarbert with Kilrush in County Clare. Ater a quick slice of sideways rain reminds me that I’m on the blustery Wild Atlantic Way, I hop into the car and follow the N69 towards Foynes. Here, the Flying Boat Museum evokes an unlikely chapter in transatlantic aviation — a brief period during the Second World War when Boeing 314 Clippers landed on the river. “We’re just a village, but we were the centre of the world once,” the guide tells me, sharing stories of passengers including JFK and Humphrey Bogart, who paid up to $10,000 a ticket, lew overnight via Newfoundland and woke up onboard to ind their shoes freshly shined. Moving towards Askeaton, I travel further back in time. “Welcome to the second-oldest town in Ireland,” says Anthony Sheehy, the 77-year-old butcher-turned-tour guide who greets me. He walks me around the 12th-century castle that lords it over the River Deel. Anthony points out the marks of medieval wickerwork in its ceiling vaults,and marvel at the old banqueting hall. Nearby, the superbly preserved cloisters of a ruined Franciscan friary are so moody you could imagine ghostly monks even in the summer sun. From Limerick, the Estuary Way doglegs west past Bunratty Castle & Folk Park, brushing though County Clare towards Kilrush. I don’t think Taylor Swit made it this far, but hey — that’s all the more reason for her to return. wildatlanticway.com EYEWITNESS SWIFT AS THE WIND Ryanair and Aer Lingus ly direct from airports including Stansted, Gatwick, Birmingham, Manchester and Edinburgh to Shannon, just a 20-minute drive from Limerick, from £36 one-way. ryanair.com aerlingus.com SEIZE THE MOMENT In 1919, the workers of Limerick defied the British Army to seize control of their city, taking over the distribution of food, goods and even printing their own currency for two weeks. Limerick Soviet 100 celebrates this event’s centenary this year. limerick.ie Dry stone walls outside Kilrush, County Clare WEEKENDER 52 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Lifestyle has a new expression in Santorini OPENING IN JUNE 2019 www.andronisarcadia.com | [email protected]
IMAGES: GETTY; AWL IMAGES 54 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Home to Michelin-starred restaurants and hawker stalls, the island nation is where Asian lavours converge with unique results. Words: Audrey Gillan SINGAPORE Eat “We eat breakfast and talk about what we’re going to have for lunch. And when we have lunch we’re talking about dinner. And by the time dinner has come we’re sorting out the next day’s meal.” As she’s talking, my friend Beverly Chan takes out a packet of tissues and places them on a table outside 88 Hong Kong Roast Meat Specialist — the customary Singaporean way to claim seats — before we join the queue outside the roast meat stall. Beverly’s voice carries above the sound of wind chimes from the Tibetan temple across the street here in Kallang district. She tells me about Singapore’s obsession with food and how her husband, Lyndsey, thinks nothing of trekking all the way across this small Southeast Asian island city state in search of his favourite lavours. We return to our table with plates of sio bak (crispy-fried pork belly) and glossy char siew (barbecued pork). The latter makes Lyndsey beam. “This is diferent from how they do it in Hong Kong,” he says. “ Here, they use gula melaka [smoky, caramelised palm sugar] and maltose to sweeten the meat before charring and roasting it. Plus, there’s the chilli sauces — Singaporeans must have chilli. We’re blessed with some of the best food in the world. Our collective cultures are Chinese, Malay, Indian and Eurasian. Because of our location, we’re a real melting pot.” Located in the Strait of Malacca, the main shipping route between the Indian and Paciic Oceans, Singapore has long been a magnet for traders from China, Malaysia, India, Indonesia and Europe. It’s this role as a crossroads of cultures, and thus cooking styles, that make hawker centres (food halls) like this such a joy to explore. The best of them excel at one dish — some accruing stars and Bib Gourmands by the Michelin Guide in acknowledgement of this excellence. As we tuck in, a hawker chef known as Fei Zhai (‘fat boy’) stops to say hello and chat about the food. He’s also travelled 40 minutes just for this char siew. As he walks away with bags illed with his porky bounty, Beverly says, “Good hawkers like that are cash rich. That’s a solid gold watch he’s wearing. They begin early in the morning, around 3am, go to the market and then prep and cook until everything is sold out — sometimes that can be 10am.” FROM LEFT: Hokkien prawn noodle dish; Clarke Quay May 2019 55
0800 082 8000 jumeirah.com ABU DHABI | BAHRAIN | CHINA | DUBAI | FRANKFURT | KUWAIT LONDON | MALDIVES | MALLORCA ADORED F E E L I N G L I K E T H E O N LY PERSON IN THE WORLD
IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY FROM LEFT: Hawker stall, Tiong Bahru Market; chilli crab SINGAPORE CHILLI CRAB Stir-fried crab covered with a sweet-savoury, spicy, tomatobased sauce, oten served with steamed or deep-fried mantous (buns). NONYA KUEH These sot, wobbly cakes derive from Peranakan cuisine and are made from eggs, glutinous rice lour, sago, coconut, beans, syrup and pandan leaves. HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE Sot, lufy rice cooked with chicken stock, garlic, shallots and pandan leaves, accompanied by poached chicken, topped with a soy and sesame oil sauce and served with iery chilli sauce and fresh, minced ginger. LAKSA A spicy, coconut milk-based noodle soup; Singapore’s most famous version is Katong laksa, made with dried shrimp and frequently topped with cockles, prawns and a ishcake. POPIAH Spring rolls stufed with shredded lettuce, bean sprouts, braised, julienned turnip, garlic, and Chinese sausage, plus lashings of chilli sauce and sweet bean sauce. Five Singapore food finds Such is the love of hawker culture (called thus because vendors once sold their wares from street carts before being forced to switch to permanent stalls in food halls, for hygiene reasons) that Singapore’s powers to be have nominated it for inclusion on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. With many locals eating most of their meals out, centres act as community dining rooms. And the food is cheap, with dishes rarely costing more than £2. My favourite is the Tiong Bahru market, with stalls downstairs selling ish, meat, vegetables and fruit and a hawker centre upstairs. The added bonus here is that it’s located in a leafy neighbourhood lined with fabulous early 20th-century architecture. Next, Lyndsey takes me to an out-of-theway hawker stall, Rahim Muslim Food, set amid a cluster of public housing in the Ang Mo Kio district. We’re here for mee rebus, a gloopy dish of blanched egg noodles in a sauce made from chicken stock, galangal, lemongrass, sweet potatoes, tapioca, curry powder and sugar, topped with a hardboiled egg, spring onion, coriander, fresh green chilli and satay sauce. “It’s spicy, sweet and savoury. Everything about Singapore culture in one dish,” he says. “People will queue for more than an hour for this dish.” A stroll through Little India ofers an insight into how one dish can speak cultural volumes. Here, where mosques and Hindu and Buddhist temples lank the streets, ish-head curry is a perfect example of how cooking adapts through generations, cultures and appetites. Created in 1949 by an Indian chef (who used ish heads because they were cheap), it employs Indian spices and fresh pineapple for sweetness, it was an instant hit with the local Chinese. We later head to the Katong neighbourhood, to call in at ENG’s Char Siew Wantan Mee for its wonton mee — handmade egg noodles tossed in hot pig fat, then placed in a bowl illed with pork stock, soy sauce, Chinese kale, and slices of char siew, boiled pork wontons, pickled green chili and crispy pork fat, served with a broth made from pork and dried scallops. “I’ve ordered an extra portion of deep-fried wontons,” says Lyndsey with glee. But we need to save room; the area is also home to the famous Katong laksa, a broth made from coconut milk, chilli, dried shrimps and herbs, topped with prawns and noodles. Historic Peranakan shop houses line Katong’s streets, painted in bright colours and decorated with tiles — oten featuring art deco-style lowers and motifs — imported by rich merchants. Meaning ‘locally born’ EAT May 2019 57
IMAGE: EK YAP PHOTOGRAPHY in Malay, Peranakan or Straits Chinese, are of mixed Chinese and Malay/Indonesian heritage; their culture continues to spawn some of Singapore’s most distinctive decor, clothing and, of course, food. At Michelin-starred restaurant Candlenut, I chat to self-taught Peranakan chef Malcolm Lee, who uses recipes he learned from his grandmother for inspiration. “My ah ma just cooked what was available that day and everything was delicious, and so I do the same, changing the menu depending on what’s available at the market,” he says. “The idea is to combine local ingredients with Peranakan culture, but do it diferently. So, we’d use lamb neck for our satay — which is sot and juicy — rather than, say, illet, leg or breast. Everything I cook is connected to a story. The combination might not be so traditional, but there’s a story behind it.” Candlenut’s signature ‘ah-ma-kase’ dinner menu is a reined journey through family, history, culture and local produce. The curry of char siew pork is served on a potato cake with buah keluak, the seed of the kepayang tree — poisonous unless cooked properly. “It tastes almost like chocolate,” Lee tells me. Singapore’s Michelin-starred restaurant scene is complemented by an equally sophisticated drinks scene. The island currently has ive cocktail venues on The World’s 50 Best Bars list. Sitting at number three is Manhattan, a glitzy bar with a negroni-ageing room lined with barrels that can be bought for around £1,700. The negroni I have here is the best I’ve ever tasted. At number eight is Atlas, a grand, art deco-inspired palace that houses the world’s largest collection of gins: over 1,000 types. But my favourite, at number 13, is Native: a little bar where local ingredients such as laksa (a herb) and pandan (a tropical plant) leaf and jackfruit seeds are cherished. “We started the back bar with just 12 bottles,” says founder and mixologist Vijay Mudaliar. “We were learning as we go. We have a fermentation and distillation area upstairs and we’re always developing lavours.” Native is not alone; Singapore is home to dozens of microbreweries and bars selling crat beers. But for me, it’s hard to beat a Tiger beer — born here back in 1932, it’s up there with the Singapore sling as one of this tiny country’s most far-reaching cultural exports. On my inal aternoon — hot and humid — I sit with Lyndsey and Beverly outside a cofee shop in the art deco neighbourhood of Tiong Bahru. The owner brings over a small bucket of ice and urges us to add some to our glasses to “beat the heat” and “enhance the lavour of the beer”. It’s hardly a celebrated crat beer technique, but it is a wonderful last taste of Singapore. CANDLENUT Named ater a relative of the macadamia, Candlenut showcases reined Peranakan food. The ‘ah-ma-kase’ dinner and lunch menus include such delicacies as blue swimmer crab curried with turmeric, galangal and lime leaf; and snow fungus and osmanthus (a lowering plant) soup, shaved young coconut ice with sago pearls and barley. Set lunch £49 and dinner £71 per person. comodempsey.sg/ restaurant/candlenut WOK ’N’ STROLL Embark on a guided exploration of hawker food with Singapore food tour company Wok ’n’ Stroll. Fuel up with a breakfast of kopi (cofee with condensed milk) and chwee kueh (steamed rice cakes topped with preserved turnip and served with sambal chilli sauce). Then head to a local wet market that’s home to Bib Gourmand-awarded stall Tiong Bahru Yi Sheng Fried Hokkien Mee to sample its hokkien mee (a fried noodle dish). The two-threehour Hawker Discovery tour, including all food and drink, costs around S$100 (£56) per person, guided by Karni Toner, an Israeli cook transplanted to Singapore. woknstroll.com.sg KENG ENG KEE SEAFOOD This family-run restaurant specialises in the cuisine of Hainan, a Chinese island province. Dishes include black pepper crab, cofee pork ribs, ginger and onion deer meat, and claypot beancurd sea cucumber. Noisy and fun, chef Wayne Liew has created a hawker centre ambience with table service. From £15 per person for a starter and main course with rice or noodles. kek.com.sg A TASTE OF Singapore Wexas Travel offers a ive-night stay in Singapore from £1,200 per person, based on two sharing. This includes breakfast, private transfers and return lights to Singapore with Qantas from Heathrow. wexas.com qantas.com visitsingapore.com Atlas bar EAT 58 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Travel Insurance with you in mind Travel insurance designed by travellers Up to £10M medical expenses One Way cover at no extra cost Extend cover whilst away Extreme sports and activities covered,including trekking, volunteer work and scuba diving to 50M Get immediate cover truetraveller.com or call 0333 999 3140
Spread across 14 islands, the Swedish capital’s eclectic neighbourhoods are where mansions and former royal hunting grounds sit alongside sleek design stores, pop-up markets and countless ika-friendly cafes. Words: Ben Lerwill STOCKHOLM Neighbourhood The city the locals call Mälardrottningen (‘the Queen of Lake Mälar’) has the kind of open, trend-setting spirit that leaves you dreaming of a move. Scattered across 14 pretty islands, stylish, self-assured Stockholm is home to some brilliant visitor attractions, but the hard part is prising yourself away from the cafes to it them all in. The one-time heart of the Swedish Empire also has serious history, although today’s city is more deined by its design and tech obsessions than by the cobbled Gamla Stan (Old Town). Come for the galleries, the food and the chance to linger on bridges under big Nordic skies. Come for a look at a European capital that marries old-world stateliness with cutting-edge lair — and gets it right. ILLUSTRATION: KERRY HYNDMAN; IMAGES: GETTY 60 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: Lisa Elmqvist, Östermalms Saluhall; Rosendals Trädgård; Modernity Östermalm Built to host the 1912 Olympic Games, the handsome, red-brick Stockholm Olympic Stadium is so small by today’s standards that you could easily walk past without a second glance — unless, that is, the statues of its naked wrestlers catch your eye. I turn from the stadium to see 20 dogs, none bigger than a handbag, obediently trotting behind the same owner — a sight beitting Stockholm’s most elegant neighbourhood, formed when wealthy merchants ran out of space in Gamla Stan and moved north. It was modelled on Paris, and its tree-lined boulevards and tall townhouses still house many of the city’s leading restaurants and shops. At Modernity, a showroom illed with sleek retro furniture, I chat to co-owner Isaac Pineus. “We’re the prime source for vintage pieces from the Nordic design masters,” he tells me, stroking a 1950s table top. The prime source in Stockholm? “No, in Scandinavia.” Close by, on the shoreline esplanade of Strandvägen, sits another shop with a weighty reputation. Svenskt Tenn has been a ixture since the 1920s, and its hetily priced interior design pieces are to IKEA what Michelin-starred dining is to meatballs. The winters are so long in Stockholm that most of its pharmacies sell crampons to combat snowy streets. But while the darker months add a certain ilmic frisson to the city’s character, they also mean its bars and cafes are designed to be lingered in at length — a perk that can be appreciated year-round, not least in Östermalm. “I need a fika every day — I’d die if not,” smiles guide Elisabeth Daude, as we settle down to cofee and cinnamon buns in the decorative surrounds of Karla Café. We’re discussing the now-hip Swedish pastime of taking time out with a hot drink and pastries. “It’s not about walking around with a takeaway cup. It implies sitting down and talking.” There’s plenty of this going on at nearby Östermalms Saluhall, a smart covered market packed with deli counters and well-dressed diners. I eat butter-fried perch at seafood spot Lisa Elmqvist, while the server explains that today’s market is in a temporary home until 2020. “But,” he says, pointing up at the neat raters, “it’s won awards.” Very Stockholm, indeed. May 2019 61
Djurgården There’s a heron lying over ABBA The Museum. One of the great assets of Sweden’s capital is how easy it is to ind pockets of nature, and there’s no simpler way of doing this than catching a tram out to the island of Djurgården. For centuries a royal hunting ground — moose and reindeer once roamed here, and roe deer still do — the island is still almost entirely given over to woodland. The key exception to this is found along the western shore, where a cluster of big-ticket museums draws the masses. Three, in particular, stand out. The irst is the achingly trendy Liljevalchs art gallery, with its temporary exhibitions of contemporary art. The second is the pricey but fun ABBA The Museum, which follows the band from folksinging wannabes to world-beating pop titans. I ind their old dressing room riders fascinating — turns out they were a whisky-and-coke bunch — and the museum is glossy and upbeat enough to justify its claim that you’ll ‘walk in, dance out’. Via the git shop, obviously. The third is the world-class Vasa Museum, showcasing a colossal, 17th-century warship salvaged from the deep almost 400 years ater it sank. It serves not only as a marvel of restoration (around 98% of what’s on show is original) but also a reminder of quite how much prestige Sweden had in the 1600s. It’s tempting to see the lavish attention to detail in the ship’s construction as a forerunner to Stockholm’s present-day fascination with design — although it did sink. Visitors who’ve had their history ix, might want to take a walk — the best way to really appreciate Djurgården. “It’s a place to breathe,” one sturdy-booted local tells me, before recommending some of her favourite trails on the island. It’s hard to go wrong, really — I follow a twisting path along the shore and into the interior, winding past ancient oak trees, copses of ir and the odd forebodingly silent mansion. The Scandi noir atmosphere would be complete were it not for the birds — blue tits tumble from branch to branch while geese and mergansers loat ofshore. It’s a joy to be surrounded by such rural scenery while the steeples of the city are still visible across the water. Ater an hour, I steer myself to the Rosendals Trädgård garden, where a cafe set in a pair of greenhouses lit by fairy lights provides exactly what you’d want it to: homemade cakes, organic lunches and a warmth so cosy that the minutes become hours. TAKE TO THE WATER It’s not called ‘the Venice of the North’ for nothing — regular ferries (increasing in frequency in summer) run between Gamla Stan and Djurgården, Tickets can be bought on the quay. TOUR THE TUNNELBANA Stockholm’s metro is reliable, simple, and oten eye-catching — more than 90 of its 100 stations have been decorated by artists. Look out for the rainbow artworks at Stadion and the trippy grotto that is Kungsträdgården. DON’T SPLASH THE CASH With Stockholm rapidly becoming a cash-free city, paying with banknotes is oten impossible. Think twice before withdrawing wads of cash at the ATM, and ensure your bank card is working. MAKE TIME FOR MUSEUMS Stockholm has a lot of museums. A particularly fascinating one is Bergrummet - Tidö Collection of Toys & Comics. Housed in former military tunnels on the tiny island of Skeppsholmen, you’ll ind a huge, lovingly curated jumble of toys and comics from the 17th century to the present day. EAT WELL Fine dining options include Ekstedt and Operakällen, while on Gamla Stan, Hermitage is a great little spot with delicious veggie bufet lunches, and in Östermalm, the irst loor of the Paradiset organic supermarket sells quality street food. When in Stockholm... 62 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel NEIGHBOURHOOD
Södermalm One of the city’s high points, in at least one sense, is Skinnarviksberget. The small rocky plateau requires a mild clamber to reach, but the views it grants over the rest of Södermalm and the islands beyond make it worthwhile. It’s somewhere to come with a picnic (rye bread and Svecia cheese, perhaps) and time to spare — all the better to gaze over a city that’s steadily grown into Scandinavia’s largest. Södermalm itself is perched on low granite clifs and was traditionally a working-class area. These days it gets pointed to by fashionistas as one of the coolest neighbourhoods in Europe, its numerous bars and boutiques unafraid to do things their own way. I’m especially taken by Lakritsroten, a store dedicated solely to the wonders of liquorice. The white chocolate version is well worth a try. I get waylaid, too, at Bottle Shop, which only sells crat beers lower than 3.5%. “Swedish law says that anything stronger can only be sold from government outlets,” co-owner Fredrik Glejpner explains, pouring me a bourbon-infused sour ale. “We stock 100 beers, and half are brewed here in Sweden.” Fredrik also tells me he was one of the brains behind the rebranding of the area south of the Folkungagatan thoroughfare as SoFo. Gems here include Il Cafè — part lorist, part bakery, part laptop cafe; the charming The English Bookshop and the secondhand clothes shop POP Stockholm, which does a good line in chunky sweaters. There’s no escaping the fact that Stockholm can be expensive, but further south I ind the excellent Teatern, a shopping centre food court with stalls ofering dishes from well-known Swedish chefs. Here, you can eat well for a tenner, joining the locals on multi-tiered seating (a nod to venue’s name, which translates as ‘theatre’) and tucking into anything from vegan burgers to seafood ramen. The neighbourhood’s undoubted cultural highlight, however, is Fotograiska, a large waterside photography gallery in a former customs house. The major exhibitions change every few months, but you can expect big names and powerful stories. It’s worth every krona, twice over. And if you subsequently ind yourself in need of somewhere to unwind, there’s the house beers and sourdough pizzas at Omnipollos Hatt (“It translates as ‘godlike chicken hat’, but I don’t know why,” the barman tells me) and the pub-like clamour of Akkurat. MORE INFO Modernity. modernity.se Svenskt Tenn. svenskttenn.se Karla Café. karlacafe.se Östermalms Saluhall. ostermalmshallen.se ABBA The Museum. abbathemuseum.com Liljevalchs. liljevalchs.se Vasa Museum. vasamuseet.se Rosendals Trädgård. rosendalstradgard.se Lakritsroten. lakritsroten.se Bottle Shop. bottleshop.se Il Caffè. ilcaffe.se The English Bookshop. bookshop.se POP Stockholm. popstockholm.com Teatern. ringencentrum.se/teatern Fotograiska. fotograiska.com Omnipollos Hatt. omnipolloshatt.com Akkurat. akkurat.se Bergrummet - Tidö Collection of Toys & Comics. bergrummet.com Paradiset. paradiset.com thelocal.se visitstockholm.com Scandinavian Airlines lies between Heathrow and Stockholm Arlanda Airport from £55 one way. Downtown Camper by Scandic is centrally located with bumper breakfasts, a rooftop wellness area and activities including yoga, jogging and meditation. Standard doubles from 1550 SEK (£129.40), B&B. lysas.com scandichotels.com FROM LEFT: Fotograiska; endive with grilled beetroot and elderberry capers, IMAGES: GETTY; LENA GRANEFELT; JENNY HAMMAR Fotograiska May 2019 63 NEIGHBOURHOOD
Barbados’a traditional landmark hotels have been welcoming visitors for over a century, but this Caribbean island idyll is also home to a crop of chic boutique boltholes, smart self-catering cottages and eco-lodges. Words: Nigel Tisdall BARBADOS Sleep Barbados has long typiied the picture-postcard Caribbean escape — its tricolour of golden sands, lush greenery and turquoise waters has been enchanting visitors since the 19th century. Today the island’s renowned for its bevy of well-established, high-class hotels centred around Holetown and Speightstown, where guests are pampered silly with sea views, lufy towels and fruity cocktails. Many of these ill up during the peak season (mid-December to late April), ater which room rates drop by a third. Bridgetown and the south coast are more congested, home to karaoke bars and sprawling resorts, but the wave-lashed Atlantic coast remains rugged and pleasingly underdeveloped. Many travellers opt for great-value, allinclusive deals, but Barbados also does a ine line in discreetly chic, small hotels dotted across the island — perfect for that unspoilt spot of paradise. F IMAGES: GETTY; IANA IANAKIEVA 64 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
CORAL REEF CLUB Opened in 1952, this distinguished west coast resort is a leafy beachfront sanctuary set in 12 acres of mature gardens. It’s been run with great dedication by the O’Hara family for more than six decades and attracts many regulars, but is far from stufy. The 88 rooms are generously sized with a chic, country house style — only the grand Plantation Suites have a TV while the entry-level Garden Rooms are a good choice for parents with young children. There’s an elegant spa, two pools, tennis and watersports. Menus veer towards the traditional, with plenty more dining options in nearby Holetown. ROOMS: Doubles from $505 (£386), B&B. coralreebarbados.com For a touch of class May 2019 65
THE ATLANTIS HISTORIC INN This characterful seven-room boutique hotel in Tent Bay is a good place to enjoy the wind and waves of the island’s less-developed Atlantic coast. Vintage photographs of the Barbados Light Railway that once ran past here adorn its walls and while the hotel dates from the late 19th century, its buildings received a stylish colonial-look makeover in 2009. Four rooms have a direct ocean view, and all are large with a four-poster bed, wooden loors, period furnishings, air conditioning and TV. ROOMS: Doubles from $340 (£260), B&B. atlantishotelbarbados.com For a taste of the wild east SLEEP 66 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
FAIRMONT ROYAL PAVILION This luxury, family-friendly beach resort in St James couldn’t get much closer to the sea. Its 72 rooms and suites are set in two threestorey blocks and recently beneited from a multimillion-dollar upgrade that introduced a light, contemporary feel featuring natural woods and the vibrant work of Bajan artist Sheena Rose. The top-loor Signature Oceanfront Rooms promise superb views and privacy, the ground-level Beachfront Suites have an extended patio and butler service, while in between lie the more afordable Luxury Oceanfront Rooms. Every morning there’s a free trip to see the local turtles, and there’s a spa and tennis courts. ROOMS: Doubles from $648 (£495), B&B. fairmont.com/barbados For beach bums COLONY CLUB BY ELEGANT HOTELS In 2018, the Colony Club celebrated its 70th anniversary by replacing its business centre with a Rum Vault boasting a global collection of 150 rums. That’s typical of the go-ahead style of this warm-hearted beach resort just north of Holetown, notable for ofering its guests numerous complimentary activities including an island tour, ishing trips and water-taxi service. The 96 rooms come in a smart, well-appointed style and are set in a narrow ribbon of pools and gardens covering seven acres. Shaded by tall casuarina trees, the beach can feel congested, but this remains one of the most inviting stops on the west coast. ROOMS: Doubles from $539 (£412), B&B. eleganthotels.com/colony-club For added value SLEEP May 2019 67
For country house comforts SWEETFIELD MANOR Not fussed about staying by the beach? This elegant 1900s mansion rests on a rise overlooking Bridgetown, with three acres of gardens, a jungle-wrapped pool and some 30 peacocks. Now converted into a high-end boutique hotel, Sweetield Manor has 10 rooms — some are in the main building with antiques and four-poster beds, while others are in an adjacent building. ROOMS: Doubles from $266 (£203), B&B. sweetieldmanor.com For a family affair COCONUT COURT BEACH HOTEL The south coast of Barbados may be heavily developed, but one of its main joys is its crop of independentlyowned resorts. Coconut Court Beach Hotel is a ine example, run by the Blades family for over 40 years. Set beside Hastings Beach, it has 112 sea view rooms, each with a balcony and mini-kitchen. Avoid the dated Standard rooms in favour of the refurbished Superiors. ROOMS: Doubles from $186 (£142), room only. coconut-court.com For seafood & surf ECOLIFESTYLE & LODGE In February last year, this white wooden guesthouse on a hillside overlooking Tent Bay was taken over by a couple from New York who are slowly transforming it into an eco-sensitive east coast getaway. They’ve started with the tiny Eco Restaurant, which now serves a meat-free menu. Nearly all the 10 rooms have a kingsize bed and kitchenette. ROOMS: Doubles from $142 (£108), room only. ecolifestylelodge.com SEA BREEZE BEACH HOUSE The Bajan owners and cheerful staf at this four-star, all-inclusive beach resort in Christ Church clearly want their guests to have a good time: think bubbling hot tubs, a rum shop, two beaches, three pools, four restaurants and sparkling wine at sunset. While the three-acre site has a disjointed feel, with 122 rooms spread across three buildings, these now include 44 Luxury Collection suites unveiled in May 2018 that ill a six-storey block with terriic views. If you like your resort busy and sociable with plenty of treats, look no further. ROOMS: Doubles from $761 (£581), all-inclusive. sea-breeze.com For all-inclusive indulgence IMAGE: WINTER PARK PHOTOGRAPHY May 2019 69 SLEEP
GIBBS GLADE COTTAGE & GARDEN STUDIOS LITTLE GOOD HARBOUR Just across the road from the golden sands of Mullins Beach, this ensemble of one cottage and three studios suits independent-minded travellers who prefer to steer clear of the big resorts. Assiduously maintained by its helpful British owners, the compact site includes a 35t pool, and a barbecue. There’s not much privacy, but the friendly welcome, decent wi-i, air conditioning and proximity to Holetown and Speightstown make this an appealing stop. Rates include daily cleaning and a complimentary welcome kit with fresh milk, cofee, beer and rum. ROOMS: Doubles from $77 (£59), room only. gibbsglade.com Tucked away in the far north west of the island at Shermans, this well-established familyrun resort ofers the best of both worlds for food lovers. Cooks will appreciate the full kitchen facilities in its 20 plushly-furnished cottages and suites, which have up to three bedrooms, and you can pick up freshly caught ish in nearby Six Men’s Bay. The hotel, which welcomes families, also has an acclaimed waterfront restaurant, Fish Pot, set in a former 17th-century fort. The menu includes curries, fresh ish and interesting salads. There are two pools and a small spa, and the abiding mood is civilised and tranquil. ROOMS: Doubles from $325 (£248), room only. littlegoodharbourbarbados.com For a chic bolthole For a gourmet getaway IMAGE: @JCHALBAUDIMAGES 70 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel SLEEP
V O T E D T H E W O R L D ’ S L E A D I N G A L L - I N C L U S I V E R E S O R T S Y E A R S I N A R O W 23 With 7 spectacular specialty restaurants, including Sandals fi rst rooftop restaurant— Sandals Royal Barbados brings a new level of 5-Star Global Gourmet™ dining to the Caribbean. And 11 more restaurants can be enjoyed at nearby Sandals Barbados. Experience the ultimate in royal treatment at the all-new Sandals Royal Barbados. Where everything— even the tips, taxes and Sandals transfers*—are included. It’s the most exclusive all-inclusive. Ever. Our brand new accommodation are all-suite. SkyPool Suites, Swim-up Suites and Millionaire Suites are the most stylish and exclusive in the world—all boasting personal butler service. Sandals Royal Barbados elevates 5-star luxury to unprecedented new heights. DINE AT 7 SPECIALITY RESTAURANTS ALL SUITES, ALL LUXURY, ALL ON ONE JET-SETTER DESTINATION RAISING THE BAR IN LUXURY INNOVATIVE SWIM-UP SUITES SIGNATURE SKYPOOL SUITES SANDALS FIRST ROOFTOP RESTAURANT & BAR INCLUDING ROLLS-ROYCE AND MERCEDES-BENZ TRANSFERS* ALL-SUITE ACCOMMODATION When you STAY at Sandals Royal Barbados you can also PLAY at Sandals Barbados PLUS! IT’S TWO HOLIDAYS IN ONE TO BOOK THE WORLD’S LEADING ALL-INCLUSIVE RESORTS 0800 742 742 • sandals.co.uk • In-store See your local travel agent *Airport transfers included. Other transfers may be an additional cost. Luxury car transfers available for select top-tier suites only.
Adventure doesn’t exist in the realm of the unattainable. It’s fed by curiosity, and as human beings, that’s something we have a lot of. You just need to be conscious of your own limits, then try to push past them in a way that’s achievable but invigorating. We all have an explore mode that empowers us to switch of the phone, escape our echo chambers and get out there. All it takes is the will to activate it with The North Face. MODE EXPLORE t u r n o n PARTNER CONTENT
THE NORTH FACE The North Face’s fundamental mission remains unchanged since 1966: Provide the best gear for athletes and the modern explorer, support the preservation of the outdoors, and dare to move the world forward, through exploration. ON THE TRAIL ESSENTIALS Even the most urban of us can reach trails within just a few hours of the city. All you need to do is a bit of research, strap on your boots and set of. While solo hikes provide sustaining doses of peace and quiet, life on the trail is even better when shared with friends. WHERE TO GO: Epping Forest, on the edge of London, is both convenient and accessible, and ofers amazing woodland hiking trails. Keep an eye out for black fallow deer as you skirt ancient oaks and check out the remains of an Iron Age hill fort. IN THE WILD There’s a lot to be said for switching of the phone and getting lost — safely, that is. Pack a map or guide book, just in case, and head of into the wilderness. With a bit of prep and the right equipment, most of us are better suited to having a ramble in the wild than we think. WHERE TO GO: Pollino National Park in southern Italy is a relatively remote spot perfect for an adventure. The park is veined with hiking trails along streams and rocky ridges, and is also home to the stunning Pollino and Orsomarso massifs. PARTNER CONTENT Turn on E xplore Mode with thenorthface.co.uk
Living for the 74 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Of all the cities in the world, which ones are truly special? Which ones are having a moment? And which keep true city lovers coming back for more? To find out, we asked over 50 of our regular contributors to name their favourites — and to tell us why. From big-hitters like New York to second cities such as Hanoi, here are the cities that travel writers adore IMAGES: GETTY city May 2019 75
New York City A given on any best city list, NYC is the metropolis that always amazes, from its highbrow culture to sky-high views Words: Sarah Barrell & Ben Lerwill PREVIOUS PAGES, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Times Square, New York City; Camps Bay, Cape Town; blues guitarist, Apple Barrel bar, New Orleans; number 28 tram, Lisbon; ‘Train Street’, Hanoi FROM LEFT: View of Manhattan; The High Line, Manhattan; Frida Kahlo photograph at the Brooklyn Museum CITIES 76 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
B RO O KLY N M U S E U M Holding its own against the big-name Manhattan galleries, Brooklyn’s colossal art museum is a corker. This imposing beaux-arts building in Prospect Heights houses a large section given over to antiquity, as well as a permanent collection spanning American greats, from Edward Hopper to Georgia O’Keeffe, and fantastic temporary exhibitions. brooklynmuseum.org TENEMENT MUSEUM New York has an extraordinary human past, and the Lower East Side’s Tenement Museum takes an immersive look at its numberless immigrants — the people who crossed oceans and endured often horriic living conditions to give shape to the city we know today. Guided tours of the recreated apartments offer a glimpse at how families lived in the 19th century. tenement.org M U S E U M O F T H E MOVING IMAGE In the heart of the artistic enclave of Astoria, this museum celebrates cinema and pop culture. Visitors can create stop-motion animations, make a lipbook of themselves, play vintage arcade games or take in the stockpile of artefacts used in Hollywood’s heyday. movingimage.us WHEN DID NYC FIRST MAKE SENSE TO YOU? SB: A few weeks ater moving to Manhattan, I conceded that my favoured lunch on the run, a tuna sandwich and a bottle of water, was a goner. Ordered in an English accent, it’s a perfect storm of short vowels and hard ‘T’s that bales Americans. Afecting a New York accent only made it worse. Deli staf would ix me with me with an irate ‘don’t mess with me, lady, time is money’ look. Finally, the penny dropped: this was a hardassed island with a dollar-driven edge — not a touristy funfair ride. Time to switch to a Diet Coke and pastrami on rye. BL: I ran the New York Marathon in November 2001, less than two months ater 9/11, and it was as if the event had given the city a release. The entire population of Brooklyn and Queens seemed to have poured onto the streets. On Lafayette Avenue, a boy leant out of the crowd and pressed jelly beans into my hand. In Manhattan, where the route turns onto First Avenue, the energy was electric. What it underlined was that as well as the city being one of the most eulogised on the planet, for millions of people it’s home. IF YOU WERE THERE NOW, WHAT WOULD YOU DO FIRST? SB: I’d walk my old manor: north along Lexington from Midtown, the Chrysler Building’s scalloped peaks appearing at intervals as I do so. Into the tatty Tramway Plaza thoroughfare, where cable-cars lit commuters to Roosevelt Island, and the hulking Queensboro Bridge stretches across to Queens. North, through genteel areas. West, along tree-lined streets where buildings gather ornate gargoyles and elegant awnings. At their end, Central Park: a vast clearing amid the skyscrapers. Here I’d step into the green and kick of my shoes to feel the city’s pulse under my feet. WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT THIS CITY? BL: It’s so explorable. You can walk past a hip restaurant, then seconds later be outside a hosiery store that looks stuck in the 1950s. It’s so familiar too, even for irst-time visitors — from the cab drivers to the zigzagging ire escapes and the sidewalk hustlers. DESCRIBE AN IDEAL DAY IN NYC SB: Start with an long brunch somewhere — just be sure it includes breakfast potatoes (a sterling North American invention). Walk of the excess along the Hudson River’s gentrifying boardwalks, onto the High Line elevated park. Drit through Chelsea’s galleries and Soho’s overpriced boutiques, and into Nolita, where bar-hoppers have a rainbow of choice. Then funnel into a gig at a Lower East Side venue, ater which stumble across the wind-blasted Williamsburg Bridge to Bedford Avenue for tacos and dancing. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE NEIGHBOURHOOD? BL: Greenpoint in Brooklyn — it’s become hip but still feels authentic. SB: The Lower East Side for immigration-era tenements and indie music joints. Take a tour of New York led by a local, covering everything from art and architecture to where to ind the best pizza and Central Park hikes. Duration and prices vary: bigapplegreeter.org Museums we love IMAGES: GETTY; BROOKLYN MUSEUM, EMILY WINTHROP MILES FUND, 2010.80. PHOTO BY NICKOLAS MURAY, ©NICKOLAS MURAY PHOTO ARCHIVES. (PHOTO: BROOKLYN MUSEUM) May 2019 77 CITIES
Lisbon WHEN DID LISBON FIRST REALLY MAKE SENSE TO YOU? AD: It certainly wasn’t during my irst visit, when I inadvertently caught the city in the throes of its biggest street party, the annual Santo António Festival, held every 12-14 June. It was an overwhelming introduction: bands on street corners, litre cocktails sold for a handful of euros, and locals grilling sardines on smoky barbecues. I didn’t think it was a representative portrait of the city. But when I visited again, over an insigniicant weekend, I found that same warmth and irreverent joie de vivre all over the place — from family-run restaurants in Bairro Alto to dive bars in Cais do Sodré. AG: Eight years ago. A brightness bounced up from the Tagus River across rootops, over blue-and-white tiles and yellowfronted buildings, and along streets laid with intricately patterned black-and-white cobblestones. During the 15th and 16th centuries, Portuguese sailors set out from here across the world, bringing back cloves, cinnamon, black pepper and other spices, and making Lisbon Europe’s richest city in the process. But by the 20th century — following Salazar’s dictatorship and a biting inancial crisis — it was the poorest. When I arrived, though, the darkness was beginning to shit and the city was dusting herself down. WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT THIS CITY? AD: The drama of its historical relics and the soulfulness of its working-class traditions are a winning combination. And it’s good value. In the same day, you can dine out afordably in the palatial ballroom of Casa do Alentejo and later sip cherry liqueur with elderly lisboetas outside A Ginjinha. It’s a city, too, of serendipitous moments and unscripted discoveries. A passing fado band might serenade your restaurant, or you might stumble upon the perfect little bakery selling delicious rabanadas (a Portuguese take on French toast). IF YOU WERE THERE NOW, WHAT WOULD YOU DO FIRST? AG: I’d head to Cervejaria Ramiro, a seafood restaurant on the Avenida Almirante Reis, at around 3pm, when the lunch rush is over. I’d order gamba do Algarve (prawns), santola (dressed crab) and amêijoas à bulhão pato (clams steamed with butter, garlic and coriander). Dessert, Portuguese style, is a prego — rare, thin steak served in a crusty roll with sweet mustard. Viviana Baptista and her husband Will Grant swapped London for Lisbon in 2016 and opened Bar Capitão Leitão, a fantastic bar and vinyl shop in the Marvilla neighbourhood. No bigger than a living room, it’s a great spot for a daytime tête-àtête or a date-night drink. Fittingly, there’s always something good playing on the turntable. facebook.com/ barcapitaoleitao It’s got good looks and a great location, but it’s Lisbon’s party spirit and culinary culture that make it the city of the moment Words: Amelia Duggan & Audrey Gillan Vinho & vinyl IMAGES: GETTY; 4CORNERS IMAGES; INSTAGRAM: @BARCAPITAOLEITAO 78 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel CITIES
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Wall covered in antique blue tiles, overlooking Alfama at Júlio de Castilho gardens; dinner is served; tram 28; custard tarts for sale at Pastéis de Belém; grilled sardines May 2019 79 CITIES
Route du Golf Royal, 40 000 Marrakech, Maroc. For reservations, visit mandarinoriental.com or call +212 5 24 29 88 88 Where Moroccan heritage meets Oriental charm. tastic view.
WHAT’S YOUR TOP TIP FOR NEWCOMERS? AD: Get your bearings by riding the number 28 tram, which still uses canary-yellow carriages from the 1930s. Hop on near Praça do Comércio, rattle uphill past the cathedral and jump of in the steeper-still hairpin lanes of Graça. Check out the Monastery of São Vicente de Fora, and don’t miss the views from the panoramic terrace at Senhora do Monte before riding back down. DESCRIBE AN IDEAL DAY IN LISBON AG: Ater a rummage at the Feira de Ladra lea market (Tuesdays and Saturdays), I’d have cofee and cake at the old kiosk in the park there before meandering down the hill to Chiado for lunch at Prado. I’d then jump on a ferry across the Tagus to watch the sun set from a bar called Ponto Final. IS THERE A SIDE TO THE CITY WE MIGHT NOT KNOW ABOUT? AD: Lisboetas love rootop bars with epic views over the city or the Tagus estuary. In summer, hip al fresco joints like Park, atop a multistorey car park in Bairro Alto, or Topo, overlooking the lively Praça Martim Moniz, are packed out for sundowners. Culinary Backstreets ofers food-themed walking tours of Lisbon with writer/guide Célia Pedroso. From $130 (£99) per person, including tastings. culinarybackstreets.com CHE AP E ATS Tascas — small, traditional, and often family-run, restaurants — are the heart and soul of the city. They’re cheap, portions are huge, and there’s always a daily special. Note, though: the bread, ish paste and olives that are automatically brought to your table aren’t free — if you don’t fancy them, don’t eat them and you’ll not be charged. LOCAL TIPPLE Ginjinha is a sweet liqueur made from sour cherries, alcohol, sugar and cinnamon. Served in a shot glass or small plastic cup, ask for it com ela (with a cherry), or sem ela (without). There are two tiny shops near Rossio Square — A Ginjinha and Ginjinha Sem Rival — where locals gather from 11am onwards. CUSTARD TARTS Have a nosey at glorious time-honoured spots like Café a Brasileira, Café Versailles, Café Nicola and Pasteleria Suiça, but eat your pastel de nata (custard tart) at Manteigaria – Fábrica de Pastéis de Nata, in Chiado. Here you can watch the cooks pipe the creamy illing in to the laky pastry cases before baking. GO TO MARKET At the Mercado da Ribeira, near the river, you’ll ind stalls lined with ish, fruit and vegetables, almonds, honey and homemade piri piri sauce. Don’t miss // The Santo António Festival (12-14 June), a carnival of singing and dancing, food and drink. Streets are festooned with garlands and lags and each neighbourhood has its own marching band Lisbon on a plate IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; GETTY Santo António Festival, Alfama quarter, Lisbon May 2019 81 CITIES
Hanoi Ca phe trung, or egg coffee, is a local speciality: a sweet and creamy concoction of coffee, condensed milk, sugar and — yes — egg yolks. For one of the best versions in town, try Cafe Pho Co in the Old Quarter. Access — through a silk shop, along a passageway and up some courtyard stairs — is confusing, but persist and you’ll be rewarded with great views of Hoan Kiem Lake and the manic streets surrounding it. DESCRIBE THE MOMENT WHEN HANOI FIRST REALLY MADE SENSE TO YOU. SH: As a naïve teenager with a brand new backpack and an empty passport, I felt like Alice falling down the rabbit hole when I arrived in Hanoi. But, jet lagged, at dawn I walked down to Hoan Kiem Lake to ind the city bursting with energy: thousands of people were power walking, stretching and practising tai chi on the banks of the lake. DF: The city really clicked for me when I igured out that the streets in the Old Quarter are all named ater what they sell. There’s Hang Da (‘leather street’), Hang Gai (‘hemp street’) and Hang Ca (‘ish street’), among many others. WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT THE CITY? SH: Hanoi survived the Vietnam War relatively unscathed, and I was particularly taken by the beauty of its architectural heritage, as well as being struck by the intense communist propaganda I encountered in museums and in public spaces throughout the city. Culturally, it’s a fascinating place to visit and, for certiiable penny pinchers like me, it also ofers incredible value. IF YOU WERE THERE NOW, WHAT WOULD YOU DO FIRST? SH: I’d head to the most crowded pavement restaurant I could ind, order a bowl of pho A surprising choice perhaps, but Vietnam’s historic second city is like nowhere else on Earth Words: David Farley & Shaney Hudson Cofee with egg? 82 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel CITIES
H O C H I M I N H M A U S O L E U M Visiting the tomb of former Vietnamese leader Ho Chi Minh might seem grim, but it offers a fascinating insight into how much inluence the man had — and still has — over modern-day Vietnam. Dress modestly (no shorts or vests) and make sure it’s open, as Ho is sent to Russia for two to three months every autumn for a touch-up. TEMPLE OF LITER ATURE One of the most beautiful attractions in Hanoi is the Temple of Literature (pictured below). Established in 1070, it’s considered to be one of the world’s irst universities. Dodge the tour groups and instead stroll solo through the courtyards and pagodas, admiring the stone scrolls honouring those who studied Confucius. OLD QUARTER Head to the Old Quarter to wander streets lined with lavish merchant houses built in the French-colonial style, head to Dong Xuan Market (Hanoi’s biggest) to shop for silk, and keep an eye out for pagodas and temples tucked away down side streets. WEST LAKE It’s worth hiring a bike for a scenic, 11-mile cycle tour around West Lake. The ride takes in Tay Ho, the main expat district, as well as a number of cafes, boutiques and restaurants. (noodle soup with broth), perch on a plastic stool and people-watch. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE NEIGHBOURHOOD? SH: The Old Quarter. It’s easy to get lost amid the colonial architecture, decadesold banyan trees and garlands of crackling electrical wires hanging ominously from every building, reminding you of your own mortality. DF: I like wandering around Ngoc Ha district, between the Old Quarter and West Lake. Once a sleepy village, it’s now part of the city but is still relatively quiet and slow-paced. DID ANYTHING SURPRISE YOU? DF: There are a lot of great, Czech-themed beer halls. These have their roots in the Soviet era, when many Vietnamese studied and worked in Prague before returning home. Beer hall crawls are fun, sipping Czech and Vietnamese lagers along the way; two places to hit up are Hoa Vien Pilsner Original and Bohemia Pivo. Le Mat, meanwhile, about four miles outside of Hanoi, is known as ‘Snake Village’. Here, you can eat all manner of serpents and shot vodka infused with snake blood. If that’s your kind of thing.. WHAT SHOULD A NEWCOMER DO FIRST? SH: Learn how to cross the street. Step out with a conident stride and the traic will magically stop or swerve around you. DESCRIBE AN IDEAL DAY IN HANOI. SH: Head out early to Hoan Kiem Lake for a stroll along the shore, before a cup of ca phe sua (thick, slap-you-in-the-face Vietnamese cofee, sweetened with condensed milk), on Trieu Viet Vuong Street. Hanoi has some amazing culinary credentials, so I’d go on a food tour in the morning to set me up with a list of places to eat for the rest of my stay. In the aternoon, tick of some of the city’s big attractions, including the Temple of Literature and Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. Drink a sundowner on the rootop of the Soitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, have dinner at Koto and end the day with a hunt for the best bia hoi (locally brewed beer) in the many beer bars around town. Inside Asia Tours ofers specialist small-group and tailored trips to Hanoi and Vietnam, including locally led bike tours around Hanoi, street food tours, art-focused excursions, historical tours and more. insideasiatours.com Four we adore IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY FROM LEFT: Old Quarter, Hanoi; selling apples on the streets of Hanoi May 2019 83 CITIES
Cape Town For all its scene-stealing beauty, our contributors love Cape Town’s vibrant townships and cultural heritage — not to mention its masala steak sandwiches. Words: Emma Gregg & Zane Henry View from Table Mountain towards Lion’s Head and Signal Hill CITIES 84 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
DESCRIBE THE MOMENT WHEN CAPE TOWN FIRST REALLY MADE SENSE TO YOU. ZH: I wish I could, but the city continues to confound me. I lived in Cape Town for 28 years before moving to London, and recently visited for the irst time in nearly four years. Seeing it through fresh eyes was bewildering. The way poverty scrapes up against conspicuous opulence, the natural beauty I had taken for granted... It’s a lot to wrap your head around. EG: It took me a while to realise Cape Town is a city that looks its best — and by that, I mean drop-dead gorgeous — from a little distance. It’s mostly down to the city’s location at the foot of Table Mountain, with the South Atlantic Ocean licking its toes. From a boat, or from the waterfront, the city looks dazzling. WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT THIS CITY? EG: It’s full of lavour, with a rich history and a culturally and ethnically diverse population. I love it for its buzzing artistic and creative vibe. It also has excellent cofee, food and wine (at bargain prices), and it’s easy to get outdoors and go hiking, cycling or diving. ZH: Maybe it’s trite to say this about your home town, but familiarity is a powerful thing. I love being able to say ‘howzit’ to the same guy at my favourite boerewors roll (hot dog) stand on Adderley Street. IF YOU WERE THERE NOW, WHAT WOULD YOU DO FIRST? ZH: I’d go straight to Mariam’s Kitchen in St George’s Mall for a masala steak sandwich. Aterwards, I’d head up Church Street to Deluxe Cofeeworks, grab a sunny seat and a cortado, and watch the city go by. IS THERE A SIDE TO THE CITY WE MIGHT NOT KNOW ABOUT? EG: Many tourists ignore the townships, but they’re exciting, dynamic urban spaces. You just need the right guide. Cultural tour company Cofeebeans Routes will show you around and introduce you to foodies, crat brewers, artisans, musicians or entrepreneurs. DESCRIBE AN IDEAL DAY IN CAPE TOWN. EG: It would have to include a stroll around the V&A Waterfront. If I’ve been away a while, I’ll catch what’s new at the Zeitz MOCAA (Museum of Contemporary Art Africa) — although Thomas Heatherwick’s architecture is superb in its own right. Ater a long lunch, maybe at one of the many new vegan restaurants, I’d head to the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden to stroll among the proteas, listen to the birds and try to spot an owl roosting by the Boomslang walkway. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE NEIGHBOURHOOD? EG: Bo-Kaap, with its brightly painted houses, is the prettiest. It’s also just uphill from many of the best independent art galleries. ZH: Sea Point, especially the Promenade. It starts at the V&A Waterfront, passing ice cream shops, an outdoor gym, a lighthouse and an Olympic-size pool that’s misted by the crash of waves against its walls. On weekends, the entire city seems to funnel down here. WHAT HAS SURPRISED YOU MOST ABOUT CAPE TOWN? ZH: The city has always been known for its outstanding produce and diverse culinary heritage, but on my last visit I was blown away by the cuisine. Places like the Test Kitchen in Woodstock, Belly of the Beast in East City Precinct and the Sushi Bar at Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa in Camps Bay are exemplary. British Airways ofers four-night breaks to Cape Town, including room-only hotel accommodation and return lights, from £617 per person. ba.com CRYSTAL POOL S This hiking trail in the Steenbras Nature Reserve ends in a series of spectacular rock pools. Keep an eye on your lunch — opportunistic baboons may make off with it. SCARBOROUGH SUNSETS Many claim Cape Town’s best beach sunset is to be seen at Clifton or Llandudno, but the seaside village of Scarborough, on the edge of Table Mountain National Park, gets gold. TABLE MOUNTAIN From the top of the mountain you can admire the plateau’s wildlowers, gaze over the city and catch a glimpse of dassies (the guinea-pig-like creatures that live among the rocks). Natural selection IMAGE: 4CORNERS IMAGES May 2019 85 CITIES
New Orleans WHEN DID NEW ORLEANS FIRST REALLY MAKE SENSE TO YOU? EB: The day ater Mardi Gras ended and the city returned to its normal, wonderful self. It was perhaps a mistake to time my irst visit with the huge festival, which takes over pretty much every street. As the last strands of beads and tuts of feathers were swept away, I remember feeling that the city was revealing itself to me. Festivals are an integral part of the culture but, to me, the city is more beguiling when it isn’t putting on a show. ET: I was holed up in a jazz joint, bourbon in hand, and the trumpet player was riing. As he played, eyes closed, it seemed as though he was no longer conscious of the crowd. He was tuning into the vibrations of the notes through the brass and with that I also let go, allowing the music — and the soul of the Big Easy — to low through me. WHAT ARE YOUR NIGHTLIFE TIPS FOR FIRSTTIME VISITORS TO THE CITY? EB: Walk down Bourbon Street at night and pop into a couple of bars (follow your ears to ind the jazz) but don’t stay for too long. Frenchmen Street, just outside the French Quarter, has a far more chilled-out nightlife. ET: The city’s bars are responsible for inventing more than a dozen classic cocktails. The queen among them — and the oicial cocktail of New Orleans — is the bayou-brewed sazerac, made with whisky and absinthe. Be sure to try it. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE NEIGHBOURHOOD? ET: Bordering the French Quarter is artsy Faubourg Marigny, home to jazz joints such as The Spotted Cat Music Club and bars like The Hi Ho Lounge. Further west, Freret is undergoing a renaissance and has a youthful hum, thanks to the nearby universities. EB: As well as Faubourg Marigny, I’d have to say the Garden District, which has a modern elegance and great shopping opportunities. IS THERE A SIDE OF THE CITY WE MIGHT NOT KNOW ABOUT? EB: A little outside the centre, you can kayak on Bayou St. John and paddle past Creole cottages and wetlands teeming with birdlife. DESCRIBE AN IDEAL DAY IN NEW ORLEANS. ET: Start the day with shrimp and grits at retro-chic Willa Jean, then visit the voodoo trinket shops clustered around Royal Street. Ater a siesta, head out for some late-night jazz at the legendary Preservation Hall. Plan a road trip of America’s music cities — Nashville, Memphis and New Orleans — with suggested routes, venues and timelines to follow, via americanamusictriangle.com With its jazz credentials and love of a great party, NOLA is a city that embraces the night — but our writers love it during the daylight hours, too. Words: Ella Buchan & Emma Thomson Buy it // Parallel to chaotic Bourbon Street, Royal Street is a more elegant afair, with galleries and antique shops selling vintage street tiles, glassware, chandeliers and porcelain Limoges boxes IMAGES: GETTY; SUPERSTOCK; 4CORNERS IMAGES 86 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel CITIES
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Mardi Gras beads on display; saxophonist plays on Bourbon Street; tram on Canal Street in the French Quarter; a young man plays double bass on Royal Street; Bourbon Street at night May 2019 87 CITIES
Crikvenica ~ Dramalj ~ Jadranovo ~ Selce CRIKVENICA TOURIST BOARD Trg Stjepana Radića 1c | HR - 51260 Crikvenica T: +385 51 784 101 | F: +385 51 781 056 e-mail: [email protected] WWW.R IV IERACR IKVEN ICA.COM An Oasis of Well-Being CROATIA Relax your body and soul on the Crikvenica Riviera, the place where your best holiday memories are created. https://youtu.be/Ia7lY0Dt6r4 PRESS PLAY TO VIEW OUR PROMOTIONAL VIDEO
IMAGES: SUPERSTOCK; 4CORNERS IMAGES; INSTAGRAM: @HOTELMONTELEONE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Vieux carré cocktail at the Carousel Bar & Lounge; dining in the French Quarter; cycling down Royal Street FOR JAZZ PRESERVATION HALL A reverent hush falls in Preservation Hall when the house band begins to play. Something about the skill of these jazz masters, and the soft licker of lights against the bare stone walls, commands respect and unwavering attention. preservationhall.com FOR COCK TAIL S T H E C A R O U S E L B A R & LOUNGE Decked out like a merry-goround, this bar within Hotel Monteleone slowly rotates as bartenders keep up with drink orders. You may have to wait a while to grab a seat, but it’s well worth it, both for the drinks (the potent vieux carré cocktail was invented here) and the invariably convivial company. hotelmonteleone.com FOR WINE BACCHANAL WINE This shop/bar in Faubourg Marigny has a twinkly back patio and live music, as well as hundreds of bottles from small-scale producers. bacchanalwine.com FOR MIDNIGHT SNACKS CAFÉ DU MONDE Dating back to 1862, this coffee shop in the French Market is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week. It tends to be heaving during the day, so head here for a moonlit treat. Try beignets (luffy doughnuts buried in a heap of icing sugar) washed down with café au lait. cafedumonde.com Do it after dark May 2019 89 CITIES
IMAGES: GETTY Best of the rest Istanbul Cartagena Sydney Sarajevo Rio de Janeiro As far as I’m concerned, if you’re building a city, it should be on the coast. All the beneits of urban living, but with added beaches? Count me in. And nowhere does that better than Sydney. This is a city where you can be suring world-class waves one moment, then dining on ine cuisine the next (the seafood is, predictably, amazing); where you can spend a day hiking in the Blue Mountains, then while away an evening bar-hopping in Newtown. But it’s lazy days at the beach that make me long for Sydney. Like most Brits, I made a beeline for Bondi when I irst arrived — but Bronte Beach, with its crescent of sand, sweeping lawns and ocean pool, soon stole my heart. NICOLA TRUP Picture hundreds of people shimmying to salsa in the heat, knocking back Brahma beer and pushing through until 6am. This was my irst experience of Rio at 19, and I’ve been back several times since then — the city’s energy is addictive. My favourite spot has to be Copacabana, every inch of it packed with mahogany sunbathers in tiny bikinis or even tinier Speedos. HANNAH SUMMERS The Bosnian capital has a glorious mix of inluences. In the Turkish quarter, alleys echo to the hammer taps of coppersmiths making cofee pots, and traditional caravanserais (roadside inns) serve strong brews. But ive minutes’ walk away, the streets are lanked by the grand architecture of the Habsburg era. Plus, of course, there’s the Tunnel of Hope, a legacy of the siege of the 1990s. ADRIAN PHILLIPS If I could be anywhere in the world right now, where would I be? Easy: Cartagena. But what would I be doing? That’s trickier. Maybe I’d be strolling down cobbled streets lined with colonial buildings. Or tucking into red snapper with coconut rice. Or exploring mangroves in a canoe. Whatever it was, I’d have a smile on my face. GLEN MUTEL Of all the great cities I’ve visited, this one made my heart beat the fastest. A stroll through the Grand Bazaar exempliies the clash of cultures that typiies Istanbul. Beautiful Byzantine frescoes and ancient monuments jostle for space with shops selling anything from buttons to baklava — it’s beautiful, chaotic and a lot of fun. JO FLETCHER-CROSS End of the Silk Road Canoes and cobblestones Beach bliss History up close Party central From big hitters like Rio and Sydney to the surprise packages of Cartagena and Sarajevo, we look at the cities that very nearly made our top ive FROM TOP: Ortaköy Mosque, on the banks of the Bosphorus, Istanbul; Bronte Beach, Sydney 90 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel CITIES
MEMORABLE MOMENTS, IN THE HEART OF LISBON Tivoli Avenida Liberdade invites you to embark on an unforgettable experience. Indulge your body with our signature treatment and unwind in the hands of the skilled therapists at our exclusive Anantara SPA. Make the most of your visit and taste the fresh flavours featuring on the menu of Cervejaria Liberdade, our seafood and fish restaurant. For a hip and trendy atmosphere, climb up to the 9th floor and enjoy the sweeping views of Lisbon at our SEEN Lisboa restaurant. In this hotspot, your night begins to the sound of music while sipping one of our cocktails at the bar, followed by a delectable dinner blending Brazilian and Portuguese cuisine, all designed by famous Portuguese Chef Olivier da Costa. Tivoli Avenida Liberdade Av. da Liberdade, 185 - 1269-050 Lisboa, Portugal E: [email protected] tivolihotels.com
Let therebe light 92 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
WORDS AMELIA DUGGAN Malawi is in the business of revival, be it creating Southern Africa’s newest safari destination by repopulating its epic wildernesses, opening a heritage hotel as a window to the grandeur of the colonial age or ushering travellers to its lakeside beaches by restarting a legendary music festival. Welcome to the Warm Heart of Africa IMAGE: GARETH BENTLEY/ MKULUMADZI LODGE May 2019 93
IMAGES: ANTHONY GROTE; HUNTINGDON HOUSE It’s in this sudden blackness that I’m let blinking and shivering despite the heat, standing alone on the lat roof of a solitary cabin in the middle of Majete Game Reserve, watching the headlights of the 4x4 that just dropped me of disappear into the night. The cabin is an outpost of the luxurious Mkulumadzi Lodge some miles away. There’s a king-size bed in the centre of the rootop, enclosed in a giant teardrop of mosquito net. I patrol around it, dim lantern in one hand and emergency horn clutched in the other, trying to make sense of the primordial darkness. Gradually, shadowy masses around the hut untangle into distinct outlines of gnarled mopane trees and the limbs of euphorbia cacti curling skywards like candelabra. I try to identify unfamiliar noises: the rush of a river barrelling southwards from Lake Malawi; the beating wings of bats overhead; the crackle and shiver of creatures moving through the desiccated undergrowth. For the irst time in a safari park, I pray the Big Five stay well away. Above me, a shooting star drops lazily through the heavens. This is the spectacle I’ve been let here to enjoy: from horizon to horizon, the irmament is ablaze. It’s spellbinding. I feel like I’m on the edge of the Earth looking into the cosmos. The Milky Way arcs over the bed. The low crescent moon is a glowing stud in my starry headboard. Planets twinkle distinctly. It’s as if I’ve got my own, incredibly colourful orrery: there’s the topaz glow of Mercury, the diamond of Venus, the ruby of Mars. I switch of the lantern and let the starlight brighten. And this is how I spend my irst night in Malawi: watched over by the planets and stars, and wrapped up in the heavy cloak of a benign, wild, spring night. It’s magical. Sticking it out alone on an experience usually ofered to couples has the unintended consequence of impressing my safari guide, Mustafa. “You didn’t get scared? I thought for sure you’d call us back!” he laughs as we take morning tea in the bush besides the Mkulumadzi River. Mustafa radiates goodwill and chuckles like it’s going out of fashion. They don’t call the country ‘The Warm Heart of Africa’ for nothing. The natural kingdom, in particular, provides a constant source of joy for him. And it’s infectious. Driving earlier that morning through tall forests, where quartz boulders shimmer like disco balls, we shared gleeful squeals at scuttling warthogs, uproarious belly laughs at rutting impala, and giggles of astonishment at a herd of elephants. We kick of our boots and paddle in the shallows, just another pair of animals out for a cooling dip. The sandy bank was decorated overnight by countless paws, hooves and talons — a testament to the thriving ecosystem that’s been painstakingly nurtured back to health from an outand-out poaching crisis. I spot the large impressions of elephant feet; the sand has perfectly preserved the cracks in its skin, which appear like raised tributaries on a map. A park ranger, Ado, wearing a smart, navy blue uniform and carrying a very powerful .458-calibre rile, stands sentry on the shore. “I feel so proud of what we’ve achieved here,” he tells me later in an unguarded moment as we hike to see the conluence of the Shire and Mkulumadzi Rivers. We watch the two raging currents, each with its own colour and texture, smash into each other and vie for dominance as gravity pulls them downstream. “Things could have gone another way entirely.” Before African Parks took over the administration of Majete in 2003, poaching had decimated the park. The non-proit organisation has a reputation for rejuvenating loundering parks (including four in Malawi alone) to the beneit of local communities, but with only a handful of PREVIOUS SPREAD: The ‘star bed’ at Mkulumadzi Lodge in Majete Wildlife Reserve OPPOSITE FROM TOP: Hippos, Liwonde National Park; on the grounds of Satemwa Tea Estate Night in the African bush falls like a portcullis. Dusk is a leisurely curtain call of deep reds and glowing umber but then, as if a switch were licked, the light exits stage west, sucking every drop of colour with it. 94 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel MALAWI
MALAWI May 2019 95
IMAGES: AMELIA DUGGAN 96 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel MALAWI
antelope remaining inside Majete’s 270sq mile perimeter, and tourism all but dead, the odds here were stacked. Gradually, however, relations with the surrounding villages were improved; rangers like Ado were given military-style training; and Africa’s most iconic animals were successfully reintroduced. Rhinos and elephants at irst, and then a dozen more species including leopards and lions. For a country once known for being among the world’s least-developed, it’s a fantastic success story that’s seen it become a conservation leader in Africa. Now, Majete is Malawi’s irst, and so far, only Big Five park — a responsibility Ado takes seriously: “We’ve never lost a single rhino or elephant to poaching, not in 15 years. Things are changing in Malawi.” Stanley, I presume A few days later I head to Liwonde National Park, which has recently been given a second chance, too. “We have orange snow at the moment,” Steegan, the manager of Kuthengo Camp, observes with a note of apology when I step of the jetty and accept an iced tea from her under the billowing boughs of a fever tree. Odd, spherical lowerpufs eddy around us, caught in the breeze. Bushbuck graze at the river’s edge. The peace is broken only by bird cries. Somehow, amid all this beauty, I’m the only guest. Kuthengo (meaning ‘in the bush’ in the national language of Chichewa) became Liwonde’s second safari operation when it opened in 2018 with a handful of luxury tents smack-bang on the fertile Shire loodplain. “It’s pronounced ‘Shir-ree,’” head guide, Stanley, corrects me gently as we head back out on the water for safari. Chugging along the placid Shire with swallows litting around our boat and the sunlight lickering behind borassus palms, it’s hard to imagine Liwonde in disharmony. Stanley details the mammoth restoration projects undertaken since African Parks assumed management in 2015. One was to dig out 36,000 wire poaching snares. Another was to tackle elephant overpopulation, which conservationists achieved in a historic feat by tranquillising and relocating 336 to a reserve in the country’s north. From the boat, views span across reeds dotted with birds as bright as baubles and long-legged waders stalking the shallows. “As many as a thousand crocodiles live in every mile of this river,” Stanley says, with a warning look to the hand I’ve got trailing in the water. Hippos snort disgruntled greetings as we pass, twiddling their terracotta ears and eying the boat with unconcealed menace. We spot elephants on the shoreline — around 60 of them, with calves — breaking from the tree line and heading our way for a drink. Zebras, too, among the tall grass, and reedbuck and waterbuck and sable, all with young. There’s new life everywhere. The Shire River was dubbed ‘God’s highway’ by Scottish explorer and missionary Dr David Livingstone when he reached these parts in 1859. He was searching for a river route that could open up the heart of Africa; but discovered to his disappointment that, as the Shire lows out of Lake Malawi towards the Zambezi in Mozambique, it drops 1,300t through a series of impassable falls. Stanley takes me to see the park’s oldest baobab tree where Livingstone pitched camp. It’s a vast cathedral of a tree with a hollow trunk, buttressed on one side by the knitted branches of an equally ancient ig tree. We climb inside the tree, standing where Livingstone once stood. His expedition, during which he ‘discovered’ Lake Malawi, ushered in colonialism: Britain staked a claim to Nyasaland, as Malawi was called, in 1891. Ater achieving full independence in 1964, the country stagnated for three decades under the dictatorship of Hastings Banda. Malawi’s eventual return to democracy in 1994 did little to elevate its reputation: until very recently, regional instability and economic turmoil put tourists of. It’s a relief to climb out of the dark baobab and be reminded of how much brighter the future is looking. For my last few nights in the park, I move to Mvuu Lodge, which for 25 years was the only camp in the whole of Liwonde. It’s there I meet a guide, David, who promises to introduce me to the park’s newest residents: lions, released in 2018, and cheetahs, reintroduced the year before. “The impala didn’t get a vote on it,” he jokes darkly. The park is focused on restoring poached-out populations, with wild dog and girafe next on the list, and David tells me tourism is slowly increasing as travellers like me come to witness the revival. We set of early, before dawn has broken, but still need to move fast and cover a lot of ground if we’re going to catch a big cat out hunting. David hangs out of the side of the vehicle while driving, scouring the dirt for tracks, but it’s the circling vultures that give us our irst lead. We approach and ind the carcass of an impala being plucked apart by scavengers. “It’s moved on. But it must be close.” David’s right: as we round a thorny thicket decorated with the nests of weaver birds, I catch sight of something red among the yellow and dun of the plain. My brain is still scrambling to interpret the scene when David slams on the brakes. It’s a cheetah with a fresh kill. It releases the bushbuck’s neck from its blood-spattered jaws and stares at us. I see the distinctive black tear lines on its face, its neat spots, the creamy fur on its belly, the way it blends in with its surroundings. “We just missed the action!” David laments, spotting the rest of the bushbuck herd cantering away. Still, when you consider that before this cheetah’s arrival, Malawi had been completely devoid of the predator for 20 years, we’re here at just the right time. Rare species Driving southeast on dusty roads, dodging goats and people, mud-brick villages built on parched red earth peter out and the terrain rises into lush, electric-green tea plantations. In the heart of these highlands, on the slopes of Mount Thyolo, there exists a rare monument to the grandeur — and pioneering spirit — of Malawi’s colonial era. As with the national parks, at Satemwa Tea Estate there’s a move to salvage Malawi’s natural and cultural riches for posterity. “There was a storm last night and it’s taking some time for the power to come back,” Tracy, the manager of Huntingdon House, explains as we tour the manor built by Maclean Kay at the heart of the plantation. “All part of the pioneering experience!” she adds cheerily. It’s dusk, and the housekeeper is lighting tall candles in the dining room. Light glints on the polished Edwardian furniture and mahogany bookshelves and catches the silverware on the tables. Through large windows that open onto a veranda set with armchairs, children are playing croquet on a lawn. Tracy straightens a painting on the wall, and for a moment this could be an old country house in Britain. But then a gecko shoots up the wall from behind it. “Let me introduce you to our bats,” she suggests casually, leading me through a maze of doors to stand under the eaves of a secret patio. “They’re a rare species.” CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Stanley inside Liwonde National Park’s oldest baobab; the baobab where Livingstone pitched camp; beach volleyball, Cape Maclear May 2019 97 MALAWI
IMAGES; GETTY; AMELIA DUGGAN I throw myself into the role of Robinson Crusoe. I take a kayak out and circle the island, spotting otters among the rocks, then tip myself overboard to snorkel through a kaleidoscope of cichlid fish Dugout canoe, Mumbo Island, Lake Malawi OPPOSITE: Local, Cape McClear 98 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel MALAWI
May 2019 99 MALAWI
Welcome to the wonderful and exciting world where you can feel that the love is in the air. Tandem jump experience, Rafting adrenaline, Explore mysterious depths of caves, Paragliding and breathtaking height, Jeep safari through amazing landscapes, and a lot more ... GLOB ME TRO PO LI TEN TO URS - Bel gra de, st: Maken zi je va 26, 11000 Belgrade Tel: +381 11 2430-899, 2430-852; // Mob:+381 64 822 6604; +381 63 236 432 glob @me tro po li ten.com; www.metropoliten.com, www.tra vel ser bi a bel gra de.com