IMAGE: GETTY The romantic manor, wrapped in vines and creepers, has been a central character in the Kay family saga since its construction in 1935. It was here that Chip Kay, Maclean’s now-elderly son, grew up and raised his own family. In 2009, in a move to share Malawi’s colonial heritage with the public, ive bedrooms were opened up to guests. It’s full of charming quirks: a honeymoon suite in a chapel (“never consecrated,” Tracy assures me); roll-top tubs where bubble baths come with a dose of borehole silt; and a wi-i connection best experienced with a drink and plenty of patience. With his handlebar moustache, Chip himself is one of Huntingdon’s historic attractions — another rare breed in these parts — but his poor health keeps me from hearing his legendary stories. So instead of the past, I look to the present and the future of Satemwa. In the morning, a wild breeze blows up from the tea terraces, over the manicured beds of dusky hydrangeas and explores the house, troubling the drapes and tugging on my sleeve to get outside and explore. Around 10,000 rolling acres of tea and cofee and blue gum trees await. On a sweaty mountain bike ride, I discover the joys of eating cofee beans straight from the bush and of drinking tea on the factory loor with the tasters. I stop and chat with a group of female pickers wearing traditional chitenje (patterned cloth) wrap skirts, who ind my presence so alien and entertaining that work is halted to indulge in a rib-splitting it of giggles. Huntingdon may have its roots in a sophisticated era of silver service suppers and sundowners, but it’s also a place to hitchhike up dirt tracks in the back of a pickup to picnic spots, or to get your hands grubby. Besides exporting cofees and teas around the world and investing in the lives of its 1,500 workers, Satemwa is committed to restoring Malawi’s forests, which are shrinking as a result of unregulated farming. This is why I ind myself wielding a rustic hoe for an aternoon, digging ditches then smoothing the earth around mahogany saplings. Nothing but warm smiles greet me as I traipse red clods of earth across Huntingdon’s colonial hearth. Lake of stars If my irst week set me up with an impression of pristine landscapes and a sense of a country emerging lighter and more hopeful from a weighty past, then it’s down at the lakeshore that I come face to face with the energy of modern Malawi. The annual Lake of Stars Festival is back ater a hiatus, and down on the beach I’m dancing barefoot to live bands among a mix of fashionable urbanites from Blantyre and Lilongwe, local beach bums and aid workers on furlough. “This is the biggest party anywhere in Africa right now!” the lead singer of a Kenyan boy band yells to a crowd of thousands. Behind the main stage, upstaging all the acts, Lake Malawi stretches to the horizon. This is landlocked Malawi’s greatest treasure. Measuring 360 miles north to south, and illing a deep trench of the Great Rit Valley, Lake Malawi is one of the planet’s most fascinating freshwater ecosystems. Hundreds of unique ish species call it home, and the water is so clear and calm that sometimes it feels like swimming in an aquarium. It’s an absorbing masterpiece of vivid hues that’s positively hypnotic, especially at sunset when the waves shimmer gold and pink. When the festival wraps up and the crowds disperse, I follow the shore south to the sucrose beaches of Cape Maclear in Lake Malawi National Park. It’s the type of easy-going paradise that ensnares wandering backpackers: lazy days become lazy weeks, whiled away in lakefront bars learning strategies of the ABOVE: Elephants in the Shire River, Liwonde National Park May 2019 101 MALAWI
MALAWI MUMBO ISLAND CAPE MACLEAR LILONGWE Blantyre Shire Riv e r LIWONDE NATIONAL PARK SATEMWA TEA ESTATE MAJETE GAME RESERVE LAKE MALAWI M A L A W I 50 Miles IMAGE: AMELIA DUGGAN. ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER Getting there & around Ethiopian Airlines fl ies from Heathrow to Blantyre and Lilongwe via Addis Ababa, while South African Airways fl ies to both destinations via Johannesburg. ethiopianairlines.com fl ysaa.com Average fl ight time: 16h. A number of motorways in Malawi are under construction, meaning some sections are wide, paved and modern while some are dirt-track diversions. Organise private taxi transfers through your hotel or operator or opt for public transport in the form of shared taxis or local minibuses (be wary of overcrowding though). Car hire is relatively expensive and can be arranged in Lilongwe or Blantyre. When to go Malawi has a tropical climate with three distinct seasons: April to August is temperate and dry with temperatures around the mid-20Cs (and some chilly nights in July and August); September and October are dry and prone to drought; and the hottest summer months (in the low 30Cs) of November to March see rainfall. The highland regions around Satemwa are always cooler than the Shire Valley’s national parks and the lakeside. Places mentioned Mkulumadzi Lodge, Majete Game Reserve. robinpopesafaris.net Kuthengo Camp, Liwonde National Park. robinpopesafaris.net Mvuu Lodge, Liwonde National Park. cawsmw.com Huntingdon House, Satemwa Tea Estate. huntingdon-malawi.com Mumbo Island Camp, Cape Maclear. mumboisland.com More info Malawi (Bradt Travel Guides). RRP: £17.99 africanparks.org lakeofstars.org visitmalawi.mw How to do it GANE AND MARSHALL’S ‘Southern Malawi Highlights’ includes visits to the Thyolo Tea Estates, Liwonde National Park, Majete Game Reserve and Lake Malawi. Price starts from £4,360 per person, based on two sharing. Includes 14 nights’ accommodation in hotels, lodges, camps and resorts on an all-inclusive or full-board basis, transfers, game viewing, national park fees and some watersports on Lake Malawi. Flights are additional. ganeandmarshall.com ESSENTIALS board game bao or browsing village stalls for carved souvenirs. “No one seems to use time here,” I overhear a new arrival say. “It’s only ‘yesterday’, ‘today’ or ‘tomorrow’.” But I can’t linger: I still have my eye on the horizon. Early the next morning, I board an antique fi shing boat in Cape Maclear. It chugs slowly out into the lake until the mainland becomes a hazy shimmer and a tiny, rocky island rears into view. Below its crown of trees are fi ve thatched bamboo cabins, set above a cove and scattered among colossal boulders. This is Mumbo Island, an o -grid eco-camp at the heart of the national park and, as luck would have it, I’m the only guest again. I throw myself into the role of Robinson Crusoe. I take a kayak out and circle the island, spotting otters among the rocks, then tip myself overboard to snorkel through a kaleidoscope of cichlid fi sh. In the cool of late a ernoon, I follow a treasure map through the island’s sun-dappled woodlands to fi nd secret caves and viewpoints and then, as the sun sinks, I sit on the island’s sandy beach, which is empty except for a pair of large, lazing monitor lizards. That night, I struggle to sleep, and when I step out onto the deck of my cabin for some fresh air, I have to rub my eyes. There are distant pinpricks of light on the surface of the dark lake, as if entire constellations have fallen from the night sky into the water and continued to blaze. I realise it’s the same scene Dr Livingstone saw when he visited in 1859; the reason he described it as the ‘lake of stars’. Each orb is a fi sherman working by the glow of a lantern hung from the prow of their boat, the way they’ve done for centuries. I curl up in my hammock and enjoy the moment, suspended between the ancient lights of the heavens and their twinkling echoes on the water. And this is how I spend my last night in Malawi, much like I did my fi rst: alone in the wilderness, surrounded by stars. ABOVE: Local guide on a boat to Mumbo Island 102 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel MALAWI
WWW.TRAPEZAKIBAYHOTEL.COM Positioned high on a hill top overlooking the Ionian Sea on the Island of Kefalonia The Trapezaki Bay Hotel ofers sweeping and dramatic views. The stunning views are matched only by the sense of peace & serenity in this adult only hotel. 10% DISCOUNT FOR HOLIDAYS DURING JULY & AUGUST 2019. TERMS & CONDITIONS APPLY.
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WORDS CHRIS LE ADBE ATE R PHOTOGRAPHS FRANCESCO LASTRUCCI T H E I N H A B I TA N T S O F T H E G R EEK R EG I O N O F C EN T R A L M AC ED O N I A A R E F I ER C ELY P R O U D O F T H EI R H O M EL A N D — FO R G O O D R E A S O N . I T S M O U N TA I N O U S L A N DS C A P E S A R E D OT T ED W I T H L A K E S , V I N E YA R DS A N D A N C I EN T R U I N S WHERE ALE X ANDER THE GRE AT ’ S LEGACY LOOMS L ARGE N G May 2019 105
It’s taken me barely an hour to reach the town from Central Macedonia’s capital, Thessaloniki, sprawling across the seafront. Driving south west from the city, the coast gradually becomes less built-up, the warehouses and shipping containers giving way to quiet beaches and rolling tides. The short journey has thrown up a grand swathe of the Greek region, and the coming week reveals more: rustic uplands where vineyards whisper on slopes, not least near Naoussa, where the Vermio Mountains lit their heads; wild places where all footprints seem to fade, like Lake Kerkini National Park, in the north; sublime stretches of shoreline, especially where the southerly Halkidiki Peninsula dips its hand into the Aegean. But here, today, I’m already seduced. I dawdle over cofee dregs, feel the sun warming my arms, and wonder, not for the irst time: do I really need to go underground? Under a series of grassy mounds in Vergina lies the grave of Philip II, the charismatic ruler who was the catalyst for the rapid growth of the ancient kingdom of Macedonia, and its irst capital, Aigai. The Royal Tombs of Aigai were one of the key historical discoveries of the 20th century. S hor tly before 10am, Vergina is waking up to another glorious spring morning in the foothills of Mount Pieriahe; the clang of goat bells echoing across the slopes interrupted now by the grumble of mopeds. At the top of the avenue leading to the Royal Tombs of Aigai, a cafe owner throws open his shut ters and eyes a tourist bus heading for the car park. 106 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel GREECE
Wars — triumphant campaigns, in particular — deined the life of Philip II. When he came to the throne in 359 BC, Ancient Macedonia was an unassuming kingdom on the periphery of the Greek political landscape. In the 23 tumultuous years before his assassination, he expanded his territory, defeating Athens and Thebes. But better still for his legacy, he gave the world a son who became even more famous. By the time his heir Alexander the Great died in 323 BC, aged just 32, Macedonia had pushed east into Anatolia (Turkey) and Persia (Iran), north into the Balkans and as far south as Egypt. Philip’s tomb was undisturbed when it was unearthed in 1977, and the treasures found within are now on display at the Museum of the Royal Tombs of Aigai, in Vergina. They include a gold crown, the copper vessels used to wash his body before cremation and his shield, adorned with the image of the mythological warrior Achilles. The mausoleum itself is also preserved in all its nobility — there’s a sturdy facade held alot by two columns, and a mural above still showing scenes from its royal resident’s life. Surprised at how close I’m allowed to stand to these priceless artefacts — almost within touching distance — I linger by the sealed entrance to the burial chamber, and wonder what Philip would make of the modern political argument that traces its tensions all the way back to his sandal-clad feet. PAST MASTERS “Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it,” the celebrated Spanish philosopher, George Santayana, once wrote. But people in this northeasterly portion of the Greek mainland are well aware of their history, and deeply protective of it. Indeed, it wasn’t until January this year that the Greek parliament inally ratiied the Prespa Agreement — an accord that promises to end a 28-year diplomatic feud with the neighbouring country, the Republic of North Macedonia (formerly the Republic of Macedonia). The cause of the spat? The use of that M-word. Ever since the small Balkan state of Macedonia broke away from collapsing Yugoslavia in 1991, Greece has bridled at its use of a name that, it argues, is its intellectual property. The situation has been so tetchy that from 2006 to 2018 PREVIOUS PAGES: One of the 20 monasteries found on Mount Athos FROM LEFT: Looking down the cliff from Osiou Grigoriou Monastery on the southwest side of the Mount Athos Peninsula; a monk boards a ferry in Dafni, a village on the Mount Athos Peninsula May 2019 107 GREECE
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A v i b r a n t c i t y p r e s e n t s i t s e l f h e r e i n T h e s s a l o n i k i — o n e t h a t h a s we a t h e r e d t h e r e c e n t G r e e k e c o n o m i c c r i s e s t o p e e r f o r wa r d w i t h o p t i m i s m May 2019 109 GREECE
there were no lights between Athens and the Macedonian capital, Skopje. The rapprochement has seen the former Yugoslav republic rechristened as North Macedonia. But what may seem a reasonable solution between governments has not been embraced at street level — there were demonstrations in Athens when the compromise was announced. But the core of Philip and Alexander’s realm largely correlates with the modern Greek region of Central Macedonia. Pella, the city where both men were born, is also on 21st-century Greek soil, 30 miles north west of Thessaloniki. It’s a little scufed now, but it salutes its heritage with pride. A statue of Alexander rears on horseback in the main square. He’s also in the foyer of the Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki: a marble bust, carved between 325 BC and 300 BC. His eyes point the way into the galleries, where there are marvels galore — mosaics from the town’s gorgeous House of Dionysos, the god in question riding a leopard; a gold myrtle wreath; a terracotta igurine of Aphrodite, hair lowing down her back. “Pella was a small town before the Macedonians chose it to be their capital [in the ith century BC],” says Dr Elisabet Tsigarida, the director of the Archaeological Museum of Pella. “It was on the main route from west to east, the one that would become the Roman Via Egnatia [from what is now Drach, in Albania, to Istanbul]; it was a clever decision.” As we approach the bottom of town, the onetime size and importance of the ancient site is still visible in its enormous agora (main square). A few hours later, I’m getting to know the city that replaced Pella as the Central Macedonian capital. Life in Thessaloniki is very much lived outside. I make my way from the pedestrianised drag, Aristotelous, to the main city square, on the waterfront, where market stalls are gathered below the elegant curve of the Electra Palace Thessaloniki hotel. Half a mile south east along the coast, history reasserts itself. Built in 1535, the White Tower of Thessaloniki, with its imposing outline, has become the city’s emblem. The statue behind is Alexander, again in the saddle. It’s diicult to avoid the past in Thessaloniki. Rome intrudes regularly, its relics strewn along Gounari Street: the giant Palace of Galerius, built by aforementioned emperor in the fourth century AD; the triumphal arch constructed for the same ruler; the Rotunda, a pre-Christian temple converted into a church in the ith century; the big agora due west of it. But a vibrant city presents itself too — one that has weathered the recent Greek economic crises to peer forward with optimism. This spirit shines through in its food scene. One block north of the White Tower, Mia Feta makes a selling point of Greece’s crumbliest cheese — half deli, half restaurant, customers either pop in to buy dinner on their way home, or hang around for glasses of wine. Further up the same street, in a defunct cinema, Ergon Agora serves a plate of meatballs whose spiciness dances on my tongue long ater I’ve swallowed them. Stou Mitsou, meanwhile, is a dowdy cafe hidden away in the labyrinthine Kapani Market, yet its dishes have real gourmet lair. Standouts include squid with sun-dried tomatoes and lemon zest; and fava bean mash with spring onions. From the market, I trip down into Ladadika, which was, up until the mid-1990s, a port-side warehouse district before being reborn as the city’s nightlife zone. I head into Lena’s Bistro, where the barman makes me a mojito that appears to empty the rum bottle. The alcohol rush envelops me nearly as switly as the cigarette-smoke swirl that still seems to pervade Greek bars. LIFE IN THE BORDERLANDS Leaving the city, I head north for 60 miles along the A25 highway, until Thessaloniki has vanished so wholly I question whether I’ve swapped continents. There’s something of Northern California about the more distant reaches of Central Macedonia — the ir forests, the rocky blufs around which roads twist, and lakes lapping at lush green shores. By the time I stop in Kerkini, the PREVIOUS PAGES: Chapel near Porto Paradiso on the Sithonia Peninsula; view from Ano Poli (Upper Town) CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Herbs for sale at Modiano Market, Thessaloniki; Cafe LUX, Thessaloniki; coast between Nikitis and Neos Marmaras; monks at Osiou Grigoriou Monastery Li f e in The s saloniki is live d ou t side: from t he p e de s t rianise d drag o f Aris tote lou s to t he main cit y s quare on t he water front , where marke t stalls gather GREECE 110 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
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[email protected] | www.kaparisantorini.gr Fascinating and mysterious, romantic and wild, Santorini is famous worldwide for its rare natural beauty. KAPARI Natural Resort is an exclusive sanctuary within the village of Imerovigli that invites you to experience the most relaxing and enjoyable vacation of your life. Come immerse yourself in the ancient culture, with authentic Aegean character.
village edging up to the lake of the same name, I’m entranced. But I soon ind out the lake isn’t quite the age-old natural feature I’d imagined it to be. Environmentalist Michail Davis tells me it’s a reservoir, created in 1932. It’s since changed the face of the nearby Sérres plain; what was an area of marshland (so swampy there were around 10,000 malaria-related deaths here from 1922-28) is now a birdwatcher’s paradise, home to a vast population of waterbirds, from lamingos to cormorants and pelicans. “Greece has some 420 species of bird, and 312 of them are here,” Michail smiles. When I head out onto the water in a boat with Vasilis Arabatzis, a guide who ofers lake tours from nearby Hotel Oikoperiigitis, I can see Michail wasn’t exaggerating. A patch of pink reveals itself to be a lock of lamingos — perhaps 50 in total. As I watch, four huge Dalmatian pelicans thunder across the middle distance like B52s in formation. “This is like a gas station on the eastern migration route through Europe,” Vasilis laughs. “From here, they go north to Scandinavia, south to the Nile and down into Africa. It’s a bird highway, and here is their best meal-stop below the Balkans.” The Kerkini Mountains rise above us as we talk, a political and geographical boundary, marking the border with both Bulgaria and North Macedonia. By the time I’ve driven six miles up to the hamlet of Ano Poroia, I’m all but in North Macedonia, which lurks north west of the ridge. Not that the road goes there. I pause where it runs out, to eat at Pestrofes, a restaurant specialising in trout, then return down the slope for cake and cofee at Tintza’s Cafe, where a stream babbles outside. Its gentle sound is a reminder that rivers here go south; that their waters will make their way, eventually, to the Aegean. And so should I. Halkidiki is perhaps the most romantic region of Central Macedonia, dipping not one but three ingers into the sea: the Kassandra Peninsula is perhaps the most-visited, dotted with beach hotels; the Sinthonia Peninsula is the most untouched, lanked by forests, the road climbing and tumbling where it must; and Mount Athos is the most fabled peninsula, the spiritual heart of the Greek Orthodox faith, where monasteries ofer quiet isolation from the machinations of the 21st century, and access is denied to men without a permit (and to women entirely). ABOVE: Neos Marmaras, a town on the west coast of the Sinthonia Peninsula A s I wa t c h , f o u r h u g e D a l m a t i a n p e l i c a n s t h u n d e r a c r o s s t h e m i d d l e d i s t a n c e l i ke B 5 2 s i n formation GREECE May 2019 113
Getting there & around Thessaloniki Airport is served by British Airways from Gatwick; Jet2 from Birmingham, East Midlands, Edinburgh, Leeds-Bradford, Stansted, Manchester and Newcastle; EasyJet from Gatwick, Manchester and Luton; Ryanair from Stansted and Manchester; and Wizz Air from Luton. Average light time: 3h15m. Public transport beyond Thessaloniki is limited. To visit Lake Kerkini or Halkidiki, it’s best to hire a car. ba.com jet2.com easyjet.com ryanair.com wizzair.com When to go Northern Greece has pleasant summers, averaging around 30C. The shoulder months of April, May, September and October hover around the mid-20Cs. Where to stay The Modernist. themodernist.gr Electra Palace Thessaloniki. electrahotels.gr Oikia Alexandrou Traditional Inn. oikia-alexandrou.gr Hotel Oikoperiigitis. oikoperiigitis.gr Places mentioned Museum of the Royal Tombs of Aigai. aigai.gr Archaeological Museum of Pella. pella-museum.gr Mia Feta. miafetafetabar.gr Ergon Agora. ergonfoods.com Stou Mitsou. kapani.gr Pestrofes. facebook.com/pestrofes Tintza’s Cafe. facebook.com/tintzas Honey Georgaka. honeygeorgaka.com Ancient Stagira. odysseus.culture.gr More info visitgreece.gr thessaloniki.travel visit-halkidiki.gr How to do it BRITISH AIRWAYS HOLIDAYS has seven nights at ive-star The Met Hotel in Thessaloniki, with car hire, from £904 per person. ba.com NATURE TREK has an eight-day bird-watching tour to Lake Kerkini in spring from £1,495 per person, and ive days in autumn from £1,095 per person. Includes lights. naturetrek.co.uk ESSENTIALS There’s a fourth version of Halkidiki too, one that swells inland. I ind myself in Arnea — a town, 45 miles south east of Thessaloniki, that has also pushed back at modern life. Not in the sense of excluding it, but in embracing what it already has. A policy of restoration has seen old houses primped, protected and brightly painted, forming a rainbow in stone and wood. Even what’s new is efectively old. The church of St Stefanos was constructed in 1812, but destroyed by ire in September 2005. A faithful replica was built in time for Christmas the following year, the locals having worked (and fundraised) tirelessly to return the town’s focal point to existence. Its icons and polished surfaces positively gleam. Sitting in Aristotle Cafe, on the central square, owner Theodosis Karastergios is content with his lot — a local who went to Britain to study, but is glad to have returned home to set up this business. “I feel lucky to live here,” he says. “Thessaloniki is close, the sea is close, we have a great climate. I could have stayed away, been in London. But I wanted to be in Arnea, to help it.” His exuberance — and that of his fellow citizens — has helped to turn the town into an unlikely travel hotspot. A short walk from Theodosis’ cafe I ind Honey Georgaka, a store capitalising on the endeavours of the local bees, and Chasapakia, which serves smoky portions of grilled chicken and lamb. Tourist numbers here swell every May and June, when Kouzina, Arnea’s annual food festival, clicks into gear. My last stop is the pretty seaside town of Olympiada, just 20 miles east. As I’m strolling across the adjacent archaeological site of Ancient Stagira, I meet Philip II again. He smashed this ancient settlement to pieces in 349 BC in an act of conquest, only to rebuild it six years later in thanks to its celebrated inhabitant, Aristotle — who by now he had appointed as his son’s tutor. I wander on as waves crash below the Temple of Demeter — part of Philip’s reconstruction — and the aroma of pine needles haunts the air. In this moment, I’m certain that Greece has never looked more Macedonian — nor Macedonia more Greek. ABOVE: View of Thessaloniki’s waterfront from the top of the White Tower GREECE Pella Arnea HALKIDIKI Vergina Thessaloniki Lake Kerkini AEGEAN SEA ANCIENT STAGIRA 20 Miles ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER GREECE 114 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
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PICTURE From the intimate stare of a mountain gorilla in the Republic of Congo to golden sunbeams over Hong Kong, the winners of this year’s National Geographic Traveller Photography Competition were as diverse as they were dynamic. As Photography Partner for National Geographic Traveller (UK) 2018/2019, CEWE printed each of our shortlisted entries for a special exhibition in London. CEWE has over 50 years’ experience in producing a range of awardwinning products from photo books to canvases and calendars to prints. Whether you’re an amateur or a professional, easyto-use so ware lets you create your own visual mementos, made using innovative printing techniques and high-quality materials. CEWE helps you bring your travel photography to life. In the HANGING AROUND Why not remind yourself of your past adventures every day of the year? Whether it’s as a beautiful, A3-sized wall calendar, a personal diary or a family planner, create your own using one of the many templates and start it from whichever month of the year you prefer. You can even add your own special occasions before it’s printed on premium, quality paper. BY THE BOOK A beautiful CEWE PHOTOBOOK is the ideal way to remember your travels. They’re hugely customisable, meaning you can choose from pocket-size books to extra-large publications, as well as a variety of quality gloss or matte paper to really make your portraits, landscapes and cityscapes leap o the page. PARTNER CONTENT
GREEN LIGHT A book starts with the paper, so you can rest assured you’re using the very best when creating your CEWE product. Using premium-quality Fujiilm 300gsm photographic paper for its products, CEWE is certiied by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), meaning all materials used have been sustainably sourced without harming the world’s forests. A PERFECT FIT Get creative and arrange your images on a series of versatile, foam-boarded ‘hexxas’ tiles. They’re ideal for showcasing a singlethemed portfolio or putting together an eyecatching collage of your favourite shots. BLANK CANVAS A canvas is one of the most efective ways to really show of your shots. From classic, framed pieces to multipanel canvases, there are ive diferent styles for your photography, all printed on high-quality canvas fabric. OFF THE WALL A piece of artwork can truly liven up a living space, so reinvigorate your home or oice environment with a bold, bright and original piece of wall art. They’re perfect for showcasing the drama of a single shot or bringing the outside in with an epic landscape panorama. Available in a range of sizes, materials and styles, including aluminium prints, foam boards, wood prints and selfadhesive posters, they’re also easy to put up yourself as all CEWE’s hanging ittings are included. PARTNER CONTENT For more information, visit cewe-photoworld.com/ngt or call 01926 463107
The vast, dramatic steppe of Bayan-Ölgii Province in westernmost Mongolia provides an epic backdrop for the ancient art of hunting with eagles. Practised by a dwindling number of Mongolian Kazakhs, it’s a time-honoured tradition that relies on a powerful bond between eagle and master MONGOLIA W O R D S & P H O T O G R A P H S MAT T BR ANDON 118 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
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Sailau, one of the eagle hunters, contemplates the day’s hunt, surrounded by colourful carpets and past trophies of sandgrouse and corsac foxes. Hunting with eagles — known as berkutchi — is an ancient practice still used in remote regions such as Bayan-Ölgii. It’s been a way of life for around 6,000 years. Although Sailau spends much of his time out on horseback with his loyal golden eagle Tirnek, he also runs a farm with his family, rearing sheep, goats and Bactrian camels. MONGOLIA May 2019 121
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Berikjan, Sailau’s youngest son, has followed in his father’s footsteps to become a champion eagle hunter. It’s become a competitive sport in the Altai Mountains, and it’s not uncommon for competitors to travel huge distances to compete. The falconry and their nomadic lifestyle also draw visitors to the region, who can even rent a gher (similar to a yurt) from Sailau’s family to experience life as a local. MONGOLIA May 2019 123
Navigating the area’s rocky terrain — and herding the family’s camels — is most eiciently done by motorbike or in a Furgon (a Soviet-era 4X4 van). Life on the road can be stressful for both man and bird, so Sailau takes regular breaks with Tirnek, placing a leather hood over her eyes to calm her. Females are chosen as hunters because they’re iercer and bigger than male eagles. Sailau has had Tirnek since she was a chick, but will release her back into the wild when she turns seven. 124 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel MONGOLIA
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In spite of their pride and prowess, Sailau, Berikjan and his older brother Ayu are the defenders of a tradition in decline, one with an unknown future. It’s estimated that only 300 Mongolian Kazakh eagle hunters remain in this wild corner of the world, with much of the younger generation turning to easier, more lucrative work rather than preserving this unique, ancient tradition. 126 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel MONGOLIA
IMAGE: AMELIA DUGGAN W O R D S AMELIA DUGGAN SARAH BARRELL PAUL ENGLISH C H U R C H I L L , C A N A DA , I S O N E O F T H E B E S T P L AC E S TO V I E W T H E N O R T H E R N L I G H T S . T H E Y DA N C E OV E R H E A D 3 0 0 N I G H T S A Y E A R , B U T T E A R YO U R E Y E S F R O M T H E H E AV E N S A N D YO U ’ L L S E E P O L A R B E A R S P L AY I N G O N T H E T U N D R A AND BELUGAS FROLICKING IN THE WAVES 128 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel PARTNER CONTENT
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IMAGES: SUPERSTOCK PREVIOUS PAGE: Polar bear mural FROM LEFT: Aurora display at the Churchill Northern Studies Centre; enjoying a spectacular Northern Lights display at the Churchill Northern Studies Centre N ature lexes its muscles and casts an almighty spell upon the remote, subarctic port town of Churchill during winter, smothering this settlement under thick snow drits and stilling the tides of the Hudson Bay with a counterpane of ice. Tundra winds blow in from the north west, stripping the branches from spindly spruce trees, and the mercury plummets to well below freezing. Life quietens. Tourist numbers are as low as the winter sun, which slinks lazily across the southern horizon. And yet this harsh, monotonous season is the most beloved by many locals, for its quietude and glittering snowscapes. But also for the spectacular Northern Lights, which dance vividly through the crisp night skies. It’s the promise of this ultimate bucket list experience that coaxes me of the warm airplane and into the breathtaking cold. It’s -40C. “A very warm welcome to Churchill,” quips Evan, the Churchill Northern Studies Centre (CNSC) programme coordinator, when he meets me at the airport. “I should warn you,” he says with mock sternness as we bundle into a van, “the windows might freeze if you insist on breathing.” Sure enough, as I peer out at the binary landscape of blinding snow and brilliant sky, my exhalations manifest as fractals on the glass. We follow a coastal road for 14 miles outside of the town to reach my home for the next ive nights: a state-of-the-art scientiic research facility built among the launch towers of a former rocket range. Ater a hearty dinner, my fellow auroraseekers and I gather in the lecture room to meet astronomy expert Alan Dyer. Our evenings at the CNSC start with talks from Alan to deepen our appreciation of the Northern Lights, and segue into sky watching — either out on the wrap-around viewing deck or under a cosy glass dome. There’s an air of nervous excitement in the room. Alan dims the lights, licks on the projector, and takes us out into the cosmos. We watch a simulation of the Earth being blasted with solar wind from a coronal hole on the bubbling surface of the sun, and follow these particles as they collide with the atmosphere to create rippling bands of colour. He points out Churchill on a map: we’re right under the auroral zone. “We could be in for quite a show this week — scientists have noted a coronal hole turning to face us,” Alan concludes with a smile. “The height of any display tends to be around midnight, but shall we go take a look now?” Outside, I tuck my gloved hands into my armpits, stamp my feet and squint through my hood’s furry halo. I can’t see much at irst. The Northern Lights ‘learning vacations’ at the CNSC are scheduled to coincide with the new moon for optimum dark skies. It takes a while for my eyes to adjust. Slowly, I begin to make out the multitude of stars, and then I notice something new: a faint arc stretching across the sky, east to west, like the trail of some celestial being. Through it, the stars continue to shine like diamonds. It’s the aurora borealis. A few hours and multiple mugs of hot chocolate later, the display peaks. A shout goes round the building, and I rush upstairs in my slippers to the viewing dome. Directly overhead, the aurora is dancing, snaking, merging and dividing. DA N C I N G I N T H E DARK May 2019 131 PARTNER CONTENT
IMAGES: AMELIA DUGGAN Its lines are crisp green, its delicate curtain of rays shimmer violet. It’s bewitching — and humbling — and like so many beautiful things, gone too soon. This show lasts only a few minutes. But I ind that later, when I curl up in my dormitory, the hypnotic, lickering colours dance once again in my mind. During the daytimes at the CNSC, I get a glimpse of life in an active research facility. Through the staf, I learn about ongoing projects examining polar bear ecology, botany and climate change. I explore the surrounding wilderness, too, walking on frozen lakes and learning how to build a quinzee (snow shelter) and an igloo, touring the former Cold War-era rocket base, built by the US Army to study the upper atmosphere. In the shadow of a launch building, Evan tells our group about Project Waterhole, an attempt in 1980 by American scientists to “turn of the lights” by shooting a specially designed rocket into the aurora. It largely failed, much to the local community’s delight. One blustery aternoon, we drive to the outskirts of Churchill to meet David Daley, the owner of Wapusk Adventures, who takes us out on a sled pulled by his beloved huskies. We glide through the forest, David crying out commands and encouragement. It’s spectacular to move like this through nature. I can feel frost forming on my eyebrows and eyelashes, and notice wisps of hair turning white in the cold. And up ahead, in the blue sky, the sun appears splintered — two bright parhelions, or sundogs, glow on the rim of a wide halo, refracted through the icy air. Another day, we’re taken on a tour of the town. Life in a remote community can be challenging, Evan explains, but with the train line reopened in November 2018 ater 18 months, things are deinitely on the upswing in Churchill. We stop by the Itsanitaq Museum, where we admire the collection of Inuit art. One painting depicts the ancient belief that the aurora (‘aqsarniit’ in Inuktitut) are the souls of the dead kicking a walrus skull between them. Churchill has historically been the meeting place of diferent cultures. First, for the Inuit, Cree and Dene, and later for the Métis and those of European descent. It was a place of trade — not only furs and food, but also, inevitably, ideas and culture. So it feels itting to learn about Inuit cosmology here. One widely held local belief about the Northern Lights is that whistling at them makes them dance — although another superstition holds that such an act invites misfortune, and can lead to the whistler being spirited away. I don’t need to risk whistling at the lights: throughout my stay, they appear of their own accord every evening in playful swirls, crowning Churchill’s snow-whitened wilds with waves of light, dancing to the rhythm of the cosmos. AD Auroral displays are caused by solar storms, the most dazzling of which happen roughly every 11 years (the next is due in 2024). Displays are also triggered at other times during this cycle by bursts of solar wind (electrically charged particles emitted by the sun). Having said this, the sun emits solar wind constantly so there’s always some geomagnetic activity. Aurora watchers monitor this using the Kp index. Solar wind particles collide with atoms in our atmosphere, gaining energy upon impact. When they slow down, they release photons, whose wavelengths we perceive as colours: oxygen atoms generally emit green and yellow light, while nitrogen emits red, purple and (very occasionally) blue. Northern Lights appearances tend to be quite dim, while red hues in particular are often hard to see. This is because the wavelengths are at the limit of human vision. Cameras are far more sensitive, however, and can pick up colours and displays that the naked eye cannot. AURORA WATCH CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Climate change mural in Churchill entitled The Last Winter, painted by the Spanish artist Dulk in 2017 as part of the Sea Walls project; two sled dogs at Wapusk Adventures; CNSC’s scientiic coordinator, LeeAnn Fishback, leads a tour into the boreal forest 132 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel PARTNER CONTENT
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Polar bear investigating a Tundra Buggy in Churchill RIGHT: Sightseeing on a Tundra Buggy 134 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel PARTNER CONTENT
IMAGES: SUPERSTOCK B E A R WITNESS T he jaw closes, swallowing our driver Neil’s head whole. The mandible is massive, dwaring not just Neil’s head but his neck and shoulders too, but all I can focus on is the beast’s enormous nasal cavity: a pit-like depth recalling that of a colossal prehistoric predator. “Now I know what a seal feels like,” laughs Neil from inside the skull. “He’s not wrong,” says our resident scientist, Melanie Hout. “Hunting bears clamp down over a seal’s breathing hole in the ice, trapping its head. And… well we know who wins there.” We’re glad Melanie is with us in the Tundra Buggy. Outside the enormous all-terrain vehicle, sleet is whipping across Northern Manitoba’s lat tundra wilderness. Melanie is a volunteer scientist from conservation organisation Polar Bears International. A welcome distraction, her demos are accompanied by fascinating ursine facts that paint a rich picture of what, we hope, is to come. Sightings are near-guaranteed on the Hudson Bay’s shores in October, when the nomadic beasts gather in the hundreds, waiting for sea ice to form so they can step out across the frozen bay to hunt. Wildlife tourism — boosted by huge numbers of polar bear sightings in recent years — has put this outpost in the far north of Manitoba irmly on the map. Its fur trade heritage and remote location (access is by air, rail or sea only) make for an absorbing frontier town vibe. Roads peter out in the boggy tundra just beyond the centre. With nowhere to go, car thet is pointless, so residents leave vehicles unlocked, providing useful refuges from a charging polar bear. Although the chances of that happening are greatly diminished now the town’s rubbish dump has been replaced with a secured facility. It’s on the tundra that the real action happens. For tourists with deep pockets, overnight stays in the Tundra Buggy Lodge ofer the chance to spot bears from the comfort of your own bed. Alternatively, allterrain, low-impact Tundra Buggies, like the one Frontiers North Adventures has taken us out in, make bumpy progress across the ice in pursuit of bears. Being out here in a blizzard is no joke, but our patience is soon rewarded when Neil notices that one of the tundra’s unhelpfully bear-shaped boulders is, in fact, a bear. The sleepy young male is momentarily revealed, coal-black eyes blinking into the wind. His nose comically rotates, tracking a scent that could be up to 20 miles away, before he returns to his stone-like doze. Soon the sightings come thick and fast, and we spend a mesmerising hour watching another young male clawing and licking at piles of nutrientrich kelp. He’s only 30 feet away, his gardenrake-sized claws a chilling spectacle. Later, in a scene that draws a collective ‘awwwww’, we watch as a rag-tag group of juveniles scratch and snif along the shore of a frozen lake; one female stops to make perfect teddy bear rolls in a patch of heather. It’s hard not be taken by the bears’ puppy dog charms. But then one moves — fast — reaching our vehicle’s viewing platform before there’s even time to adjust my camera’s focus. He rears up, paws thudding onto the buggy, epic nasal cavities at work, sniing me out; his oil-black eyes ixed on mine. “Buggy love,” says Neil on seeing my dumbstruck expression. It’s a goofy look I’m to wear for days to come. SB The world’s largest land carnivore, an adult male polar bear can weigh up to 2,000lbs. Their fur is translucent, and only appears white because it relects the light. Beneath the fur, their skin is actually jet black. The Churchill Wildlife Management Area covers 3,280sq miles, all of which is protected boreal terrain just outside town. From June to November, the subpopulation of polar bears around Churchill sometimes forage for food on land, leading to an increase in conlicts with humans. Fortunately, in Churchill, the few bears that do make pests of themselves (usually juveniles) are sedated, quarantined in the Polar Bear Holding Facility, then helicoptered back onto the tundra to be released. Polar bears live in territories that ring the Arctic Circle: Canada, Russia, Alaska, Greenland and Norway. THE POLAR BEAR May 2019 135 PARTNER CONTENT
IMAGE: SUPERSTOCK GETTING THERE & AROUND Air Canada offers lights from Heathrow to Winnipeg via Toronto from £456 return. From Winnipeg, ly with Calm Air to Churchill from C$727 (£411) return, or take a 43-hour train, departing twice-weekly, with VIA Rail, with fares from C$447 (£262). aircanada.com calmair.com viarail.ca/en WHEN TO GO Winters in Churchill see temperatures get as low as -40C. Summers reach 22C and it’s the warmer months that are best for beluga spotting. October and November, meanwhile, are best to see polar bears. February and March are good for dog sledding and the Northern Lights. HOW TO DO IT Winter Skies: Aurora and Astronomy in Churchill educational programmes at the Churchill Northern Studies Centre are scheduled for 14-19 February and 15-19 March 2020, and cost C$1,525 (£893). Includes accommodation, meals, lectures, activities and transfers. The ive-day Churchill Town & Tundra Adventurer tour costs CAD$3,249 (£1,905) per person including accommodation in Winnipeg, lights to Churchill, accommodation, transfers, activities and meals (international lights extra). frontiersnorth.com For beluga whales, Lazy Bear Expeditions offers a two-day tour including transfers, accommodation and meals (excludes airfare) for CAD$577 (£330) per person. lazybearlodge.com S I N G I N G F O R WHALES “What’s that you’re singing?” asks Lazy Bear Expeditions guide, Jason Ransom, driting silently on a rigid inlatable on Manitoba’s Churchill River as I paddle alongside him, scanning a surface dappled in late August sun for telltale bubbles. The day before, Jason had driven me around the town, and while admiring the Sea Walls mural trail, telling the story of the town’s First Nations history, industrial past and symbiosis with nature, two fellow travellers had halfjoked that you’ve a better chance of spotting belugas if you sing for them. Hence why I’m belting out the refrain from Canadian band Arcade Fire’s song Wake Up. The high notes are proving a challenge, but the song choice is relevant. This is Manitoba, ater all, and only a song of such epic proportions would be appropriate for my surrounds. This small frontier town on the southwestern shore of Hudson Bay holds the unoicial title of polar bear capital of the world, but I’m not singing for bears. A kayak in open water is hardly the safest spot from which to search for apex predators with goldmedal swimming credentials, ater all. Instead, I’m looking for one of the most enigmatic inhabitants of polar seas: the beluga whale; tens of thousands of which gather in the waters of Churchill each summer. It’s testament to their charm that when, ive days later, I see polar bears feasting on a whale carcass, the stunning spectacle doesn’t eclipse the magic of my beluga encounters. But, half an hour in to my three-hour kayak trip, sightings are no more than distant glimpses. It seems setting my subconscious playlist to cetacean-shule isn’t working. I switch to Deacon Blue, changing the irst line of the chorus from ‘The Believers’ to ‘The Belugas’, and am so chufed with my new game of whale-song that when a plume of bubbles erupts to my let, I react like a jittery cyclist ater a close call at the traic lights. “Woaaaaaah!” I whoop, staring into the depths. Something bumps me, let, right, underneath, and suddenly the brilliant white of a beluga appears at the side of my kayak, nudging me gently through the water; its muscular, elegant body glistening in the sun. I spend the next hour and a half in exquisite delirium, being toyed with and tailed by these beautiful creatures; my disbelieving squeals of excitement echoing, I’m sure, around every nautical mile of Hudson Bay. The next day I sing again, ofering the belugas a Flaming Lips song: “Do you realise that you have the most beautiful face? Do you realise we’re loating in space?” My guide lowers a hydrophone into the water and suddenly — incredibly — I can hear them chirruping around me. They surface, eying me inquisitively as I giggle in gratitude, lost to this life-airming moment in which I almost convince myself these Arctic spirits know what I’m chanting. And that maybe, just maybe, they’d been listening all along. PE Beluga whales are normally found in the Arctic Ocean, as well as the seas around Canada, Alaska and Russia, and can live in both saltwater and fresh water. They can grow up to over six metres, and lack a dorsal fin, enabling them to swim more easily under ice. Belugas rounded foreheads are easily distinguishable, containing tissue known as melon, which they use for echolocation, although belugas are also thought to communicate using facial expressions. They breed in the summer months, coming to estuary areas like Manitoba’s Churchill River to feed and calve. These are the best times to see them. THE BELUGA WHALE Beluga whale, Churchill ESSENTIALS 136 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel To f ind out more, visit travelmanitoba.com PARTNER CONTENT
THE EXCHANGE DISTRICT Downtown Winnipeg is full of warehouses that house the city’s best boutiques, galleries and restaurants. Take a walking tour with a twist: dive into the Exchange District Biz’s history with themed tours covering topics like ‘Death and Debauchery’ and ‘Punks and Anarchists’. exchangedistrict.org THE FORKS The riverfront development of The Forks is the epicentre of tourism. During winter, it’s the place to hire ice skates and explore the frozen waterways of the Red River Mutual Trail. When it’s balmy, rent a canoe or pick up a boat cruise. Later, eat mouthwatering Italian fare at the Forks Market or a pastry from the rustic Tall Grass Prairie Bakery. theforks.com THERMËA Unwind in the saunas, steam rooms and plunge pools of this Nordic-inspired spa. At Thermëa, guests start with a hot experience then move to a cool one before relaxing on heated loungers, in a hammock or in a hot tub. Other experiences include exfoliation and dining in the comfort of a fl u y robe in the restaurant. thermea.ca ASSINIBOINE PARK ZOO This zoo’s most celebrated exhibit foregrounds Arctic species including polar bears, wolves, muskoxen and seals in a setting that mimics Churchill and the tundra. Don’t miss the Sea Ice Passage, an underwater glass tunnel that brings you nose-tonose with swimming bears. assiniboineparkzoo.ca CANADIAN MUSEUM FOR HUMAN RIGHTS Interactive exhibits are at the heart of this thoughtprovoking museum dedicated to human rights. Moving upwards from darkened lower galleries towards the light-fl ooded Tower of Hope, visitors learn about the steps the world has taken on the path to equality and dignity for all mankind. humanrights.ca TOP 5 TICK-LIST At the heart of Canada stands a historic city with plenty of soul, a booming nightlife and a cultural scene that will keep everyone entertained GETTING THERE Air Canada offers fl ights from Heathrow to Winnipeg via Toronto starting from £456 return IMAGES: THE FORKS WINNIPEG; ALAMY; TRAVEL MANITOBA Winnipeg ESSENTIALS 2 5 3 4 1 PARTNER CONTENT To f ind out more, visit travelmanitoba.ca
ABU DHABI City life An ongoing construction boom has added a dizzying portfolio of buildings to Abu Dhabi’s skyline: the new latticed Louvre is part of a bid to make Saadiyat Island a cultural hub, while sustainable living projects and warehouses turned creative spaces are some of the ways the shiny UAE city is striving to be the ‘new world capital’ WORDS: Jamie Laferty PHOTOGRAPHS: Debbie Fortes 138 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
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I nside Zuma Abu Dhabi, a group of Emiratis are sitting at a circular table. Their traditional white dishdashas seem to glow in the dark of the restaurant. Nearby, a Brazilian couple are frustrated the gloom doesn’t allow them to take satisfactory photos of the spectacular sushi platter that’s just arrived at their table. Meanwhile, at the back of the room, a DJ plays house music. Yet, ultra-trendy Zuma backs up its pretension with super-slick service and the best food anywhere in the city. A decade ago you wouldn’t have found somewhere as good as this in Abu Dhabi. But then, a decade ago, you wouldn’t have even found Al Maryah, the island on which Zuma is located, either. It’s 10 years since I irst came to Abu Dhabi. Towards the end of 2008, I moved here for a job on a magazine and switly set about getting to know my new home. At that time, the list of attractions was pretty short, though it felt as though the emirate was on its way to becoming what its marketing slogan claimed: the ‘new world capital’. The guide on a tour I took in those early days delivered that line as I entered the gilded lobby of the Emirates Palace hotel. Reiterating that slogan was the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. Then, as it continues to do now, the brilliant white construction blew my mind — it was as though I was seeing Agra’s Taj Mahal or Istanbul’s Blue Mosque, not as a preserved relic, but as a staggering monument in its pomp, a building made with such care and perfection that, barring some awful cataclysm, will stand for 500 years. The same day, I was shown a series of plans and drawings in Manarat Al Saadiyat, ideas for the development of Saadiyat Island, which would follow in years to come. “What’s next?” I asked. “What else is there to see?” And it quickly became clear that, apart from a quick stop at the Falcon Hospital, there was nothing else to show. During the two years I lived in Abu Dhabi, it always felt like the emirate was in Dubai’s shadow. On my return — and this is the irst time I’ve been back since 2010 — it looks like a very diferent place. The Emirates Palace and Sheikh Zayed Mosque still stand as icons of the city (the Falcon Hospital is still running too), but they’ve been joined by a dizzying portfolio of buildings and ideas. Tourists used to spend just a day here before making the hour-long drive to Dubai, but now Abu Dhabi is a destination in its own right. The best example of its stellar progression is on Saadiyat, where one of those impossible-looking models I was shown has been scaled up to marvellous reality in the shape of the Louvre Abu Dhabi. One of around 200 islands belonging to Abu Dhabi, Saadiyat was designated by the government as a cultural hub, a way of diversifying the UAE’s economy and divesting from the oil that’s made it so extraordinarily wealthy. The Louvre was always intended to be the irst of the island’s mega projects, with the Guggenheim and Zayed National Museum coming later. The world’s leading architects — including Sir Norman Foster and Zaha Hadid — seemed to fall over themselves to have designs approved, but despite the vast funding behind the Saadiyat project, many of the other buildings have foundered or been delayed by several years. The Louvre was also well behind schedule. There was much eye-rolling at the idea the UAE had bought the august French name, and serious suspicions this ersatz incarnation would be a colossal waste of money. Yet, since opening in November 2017, the Louvre Abu Dhabi has proved the doubters spectacularly wrong. Jean Nouvel’s pioneering design — a loating latticed dome covering the 260,000sq t site — is a wonder in itself, to say nothing of the marvellous collection of artefacts and artworks inside. I read and wrote a lot about this place during its years of construction, and when I inally step inside I have a feeling of dread: the two hours let before closing are clearly nowhere near enough to properly appreciate everything inside. But I make the most of the time I have, litting between paintings by the likes of van Gogh, Gauguin and da Vinci Roman statues, Neanderthal tools and weapons from the Crusades. Commendably, there are also a couple of Jewish relics: an ancient copy of the Torah and an astrolabe with Hebrew inscriptions. In the name of the father // Abu Dhabi translates as ‘father of the gazelle’. Keen-eyed golfers often spot the little deer darting across the capital’s courses PREVIOUS PAGE LEFT TO RIGHT: Inside the Louvre Abu Dhabi; Abu Dhabi EDITION CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Exterior of the Louvre Abu Dhabi; inside the Louvre Abu Dhabi; Al Maryah Island; inside The Galleria shopping mall 140 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel ABU DHABI
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Roughly a million visitors passed through the Louvre’s doors in its irst year of operation, with the numbers expected to increase this year. The museum is also expected to display da Vinci’s Salvator Mundi soon; a Saudi prince spent $450m (£338m) buying the painting on behalf of the Abu Dhabi Department of Culture and Tourism. The entire Saadiyat project still has an enormous amount of labour ahead if it’s to reach its potential, but along its shoreline, construction is taking place. Developers have even avoided disturbing the area’s migratory population of hawksbill sea turtles by building elevated boardwalks over the dunes. GEAR CHANGE Until recently, Dubai always grabbed the headlines, both in terms of its architectural achievements (or follies) and development. When the global inancial crisis came blasting through the UAE, however, it was Dubai that felt the pinch hardest. With two thirds of the country’s economy in Abu Dhabi, the capital had to send grants to its neighbouring emirate to keep it aloat. Back in Abu Dhabi, vast cash reserves were being spent with a little more prudence. As I drive along the Corniche, the ivemile-long promenade that’s always been a focal point here, it’s clear the skyline has changed dramatically since my last visit. The Jumeirah at Etihad Towers hotel seemed signiicant when it opened in 2011 (not least because Jumeirah had been seen as an exclusively Dubai brand), but became even more so when it was used for an outrageous stunt in 2015’s Furious 7. Nothing raises the proile of your property quite like having Vin Diesel drive a supercar through its windows. However, petrol heads have more to admire on Yas Island. While Saadiyat has been designated as a cultural hub, the focus on Yas is entertainment. In place of museums there are theme parks; where Saadiyat has a gallery, Yas has an F1 track. And while it’s undeniably fun, it has a strange, artiicial feel. So too does Masdar City, an elaborate, sustainable ‘planned city’ project near Abu Dhabi Airport — but as a new hub for ‘cleantech’ companies, it’s no surprise it feels a little sterile. With that in mind, my inal morning back in Abu Dhabi is spent seeking out some of the subtler newcomers in town — recent additions away from the billion-dollar showpieces. And the Living Room Café is just the kind of passion project that, in a forest of the extraordinary, proves that smaller businesses can give the city more character. It was opened by Australian expat Simona Youlten back in 2012, whose motivation was simple enough: “As a mother of seven, I was already baking so many birthday cakes I thought I might as well scale it up a bit and turn it into a business,” she tells me. Today, the eclectic little cafe tucked away in a villa feels a million miles away from the corporate investments that have deined Abu Dhabi for so long. When I arrive mid-morning, there aren’t many other customers, but the stereo is playing New Order covers and the staf seem delighted to be serving cofees and teeny mini muins. Just 10 minutes away from the Living Room, in the Mina Zayed Port area, Warehouse421 is, in some ways, the most remarkable addition to Abu Dhabi over the past decade. Like the little cafe, it feels to me as though it’s achieved that simple but oten illusive trick of being genuinely cool. While this type of project is de rigueur for cities like London or New York, the decision to convert old industrial warehouses into a creative space feels particularly bold for the UAE, even if government money is involved. During my visit, I meet Dubai-based photographer Mohamed Somji, who’s leading a photography tour of Zayed Port’s industrial surroundings, and visit the Hafez Gallery, which is in the process of winding down its month-long showcase of Islamic art. Throughout the rest of the year, there are exhibitions from local and international artists, workshops and symposiums. Outside is a graveyard of old dhows — traditional Arab boats — which lie silently disintegrating in the sun. Beyond, the glitzy high-rises of the ever-expanding skyline relect the rays at unnatural angles. Abu Dhabi still has a foot in each of these worlds, but each year one grows more distant and the other moves thrillingly closer. United together // Abu Dhabi is a city and also one of the seven emirates that make up the UAE. he others are Dubai, Ajman, Ras Al Khaimah, Fujairah, Umm Al Quwain and Sharjah CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Coffee being served at the Living Room Café; LA artist Cleon Peterson’s painting at the entrance of Warehouse421; dish and drink, Zuma Abu Dhabi; seating, Warehouse421 142 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel ABU DHABI
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Masdar Institute of Science and Technology RIGHT: Rooftop swimming pool, Yas Hotel Abu Dhabi 144 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel ABU DHABI
WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE PART OF THE CITY? I love the area we broadly call Downtown. While the layout of Abu Dhabi is rather odd for a city (it’s spread out over hundreds of islands, without a dedicated centre), if there is a city centre, it’s here. This is where you’ll fi nd buildings, bars and restaurants dating back to the 1970s when the UAE was fi rst formed. You can explore the back alleys, fi nd amazing bakeries and tea shops and enjoy a less fl ashy side of life. WHAT’S NEW IN ABU DHABI? Qasr Al Hosn is simultaneously new and really old. The oldest structure in Abu Dhabi, with a watchtower dating back to the 1760s, it has recently reopened, following a huge restoration job, as an incredible museum. It’s free to enter the grounds and Dhs30 (£6) to see the exhibitions. This is where Abu Dhabi as we know it began, when the Bani Yas tribe decided to move nearer to the coast from the desert. They became pearl divers, and the rest is history. HOW HAS THE CITY CHANGED SINCE YOU’VE KNOWN IT? I’ve been in the UAE for more than four years, which is a lot less than many people, but it also makes me something of a veteran, such is the transient way of life for expats. In that time I’ve seen a focus on the arts (the Louvre opening has been massive), a desire to preserve traditional Emirati ways of life (Qasr Al Hosn is just one example of this), and a drive towards more sustainable living (see Masdar City for some fantastic strides in eco-friendly living). Q&A: Paul Clif ord Editor-in-chief, Time Out Abu Dhabi ABU DHABI 14 hours in 8AM BIG BREAKFAST Chances are you’re staying at a nice hotel in Abu Dhabi, and that usually means a blowout breakfast bu et. UAE hotels can be many things, but there are few places in the world that can rival them on this front; expect everything from locally made hummus to fresh sushi and eggs Benedict. 10AM VISIT THE MOSQUE Head to the sensational Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque before the temperatures and crowds become unbearable. Built in honour of the UAE’s founding father (his tomb is also on the site), the mosque is one of the largest in the world that’s also open to non-Muslims. A er over 10 years of construction, this expansive house of worship opened in late 2007. Surely the most elegant, striking building anywhere in the country, it holds several world records including — somewhat surprisingly — the world’s largest carpet and chandelier. 12PM HEAD TO THE LEISURE ISLAND Having had a moment of calm at the mosque, mix things up with a trip to Yas Island. Abu Dhabi’s dedicated leisure district’s star attraction is Ferrari World. Built close to the Yas Marina Formula One circuit, it’s a multiple record-breaker, with the ridiculous Formula Rossa, the world’s fastest rollercoaster. If you fancy something more sedate, the nearby Yas Links is perhaps the best golf course in the whole of the UAE. 2PM LUNCH AT ATAYEB Rather than waste time travelling across the city to fi nd Arabic food, stop in at the excellent Atayeb inside the Yas Hotel. The property straddles the Formula One track and can feel a little gimmicky, but there’s no doubting the authenticity of the food in this outstanding Middle Eastern and North African restaurant. Naturally for this part of the world there’s al fresco seating, too, o ering views of the racetrack. ABU DHABI May 2019 145
Zuma Emirates Palace SAADIYAT ISLAND ABU DHABI Louvre Abu Dhabi Mina Zayed port area YAS ISLAND Qasr al-Hosn Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque PERSIAN GULF UNITED ARAB EMIRATES ABU DHABI 5 miles ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER Getting there & around Etihad Airways offers multiple daily direct lights to Abu Dhabi from Heathrow and Manchester. British Airways also offers a daily service from Heathrow. etihad.com ba.com Average light time: 7h When to go Prices come down as the heat goes up in summer. From April-November temperatures over 40C are common, however in the winter months it’s much cooler, hovering around a pleasant 25C. Where to stay The new Abu Dhabi EDITION is the upmarket brand’s irst UAE outpost. You’ll ind this stylish, relaxed hotel in the newly revived Al Bateen neighbourhood. editionhotels.com More info visitabudhabi.ae How to do it BRITISH AIRWAYS HOLIDAYS offers return lights and three nights’ B&B accommodation from £379 per person. ba.com SCOTT DUNN offers seven days’ B&B accommodation at a luxury hotel from £1,300 per person. scottdunn.com ESSENTIALS 4PM VISIT THE LOUVRE Allow at least three hours to explore one of the greatest collections of artefacts on the planet, and to gawp at the bold architecture. There are too many highlights to mention, but if you want to see everything from stone age tools to iron age sarcophagi and Renaissance paintings, make sure you leave plenty of time — and wear comfortable shoes. 7PM SUNSET AT EMIRATES PALACE Completely OTT, the Emirates Palace is said to have cost around $3bn (£2.26bn), making it the world’s most expensive hotel. Whatever the true cost, what stands today is a hotel so ostentatious it could only exist in the UAE. Rooms are unsurprisingly extortionate, but if you fancy a sample of ludicrous luxury, stop for a sundowner and fresh Tsarskaya oysters at the Breeze Lounge on the back lawn. 8PM DINNER AT ZUMA In culinary terms, the world comes to Abu Dhabi. Zuma has almost single-handedly elevated the deinition of fresh food in the UAE. The menu is a mix of traditional Japanese, modern interpretations of classics and entirely new dishes. The cocktail menu, like the sake list, is impressive. It’s aware of how hip it is, but there probably isn’t a better restaurant in the capital. 10PM DRINK AT LOCA While it’s tempting to stay in Zuma for a post-dinner boogie, tear yourself away to go to nearby Loca. A frequent award-winner, this Mexican restaurant and bar might seem an unlikely place to have a night out, but it stays open until 2am, oten hosts excellent live music, and sells beer by the 10-litre keg. If you ever thought the UAE’s laws about alcohol were a bit fuzzy, they might get a lot more so ater a few hours here. Zuma restaurant interior ABOVE: Zuma entrance 146 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel ABU DHABI
KARÜN Using recycled fi shing nets and reclaimed wood from the beaches and forests of Chilean Patagonia, Karün makes high quality eyewear infused with the wilderness it helps to protect THE PROCESS Karün employs rural disenfranchised communities in Patagonia to collect fi shing nets and other plastic waste from the beaches and ords of the Cochamó Valley, then turns that plastic into high-quality eyewear. The communities use the money they receive from Karün as seed capital to invest in their own micro-businesses, learning economic skills that will regenerate the region and preserve the land at the same time. Sales from the sunglasses are then fed back into the community, in collaboration with Balloon Latam, helping to expand the programme. THE PEOPLE Karün works with more than 200 entrepreneurs and each one is a friend. Pedro Rubio clears fi shing nets from the Reloncaví Estuary and uses the money he makes to support his wife’s new empanada restaurant. Elsa Vera weaves brightly coloured straps for the glasses and helps other women in her village turn their skills into opportunities. Pato Gallardo lives high in the mountains and makes leather-bound cases for Karün. The job means he can stay in the valley where he was born. When you buy a pair of Karün sunglasses, you’re helping to change the lives of the people of Patagonia. THE COMPANY This isn’t about fashion, designer brands or wearing the latest trend. It’s about harmony. Using recycled fi shing nets and reclaimed wood from the beaches and forests of Chilean Patagonia, Karün makes high quality eyewear infused with the wilderness it helps to protect. But these aren’t just any old shades. In native Mapuche, the indigenous language of Patagonia, Karün means ‘to be nature’. Wearing the company’s sunglasses isn’t a fashion statement, it’s a statement of change. Karün rejects the old ways of thinking. See the world through a di erent point of view. At one with nature PARTNER CONTENT
IMAGES: PIA VERGARA; COLOMBA PLASS THOMAS KIMBER WHY DID YOU START THE COMPANY? The fashion industry has enormous reach, but also has a disastrous impact on the environment. I wanted to prove it could be done in a more sustainable way, and also use those same channels to send a message about change. WHAT INSPIRES YOU? The Patagonian wilderness is our teacher. It infl uences our designs, business model and philosophy. WHAT ARE YOUR HOPES FOR THE FUTURE? The fi rst step is to work with our 200+ microentrepreneurs in the Cochamó Valley to build a resilient community that’s empowered and incentivised to protect one of the most beautiful places in Patagonia. Then we want to try and replicate it in other parts of the world where nature is at risk and rural communities lack opportunities. We want to prove it’s possible to do business this way. EMAIL [email protected] SOCIAL MEDIA @karunworld ESSENTIALS THE MOVEMENT A new paradigm is emerging — humans living in harmony with the planet. Karün’s not trying to save the world with sunglasses, but it is trying to inspire you to see things di erently. If Karün can make something beautiful from something harmful and create opportunities from waste, then perhaps it can change the way people think about other things too: economics, the environment, even ourselves. This isn’t just a product. It’s part of a much larger movement. Wear what you stand for. THE PRODUCT Combining top-quality ZEISS lenses with designs inspired by the natural world, Karün sunglasses are both sustainable and beautiful. The Wood Collection, handcra ed from reclaimed wood, is stylish, urban and sophisticated. The Sailing Collection, codeveloped and worn by Volvo Ocean Race sailors, is sporty, durable and performanceled. The Seven Seas and Pacifi c Collections are made entirely from recycled fi shing nets to raise awareness of ocean plastic pollution. PARTNER CONTENT To f ind out more, visit karunworld.com
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