Bali & Lombok Travel Guide

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Bali &
Lombok

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Edition 14th Edition
Release Date Apr 2013
Pages 409

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”

TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT
YOUR TRIP Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions
2 to help you put together your perfect trip

Welcome to Bali 2 Welcome to
& Lombok ..................... 4
6 Bali &
Map .................................. 16 Lombok
20 Top Experiences ....... 18
Need to Know ................. 19 A Place Like No Other the smiling Balinese too far, but in reality,
What’s New ..................... 21
If You Like ........................ 24 the inhabitants of this small island are in-
Month by Month ............. 29 Bali is like no other destination in the deed a generous, genuinely warm people.
Itineraries........................ 40 world. Its rich culture plays out at all lev-
Bali & Lombok Outdoors 43 els of life, from the exquisite Áower-petal 1 5There’s also a fun, sly sense of humour be-
Travel with Children ...... hind the smiles. Upon seeing a bald tour-
Regions at a Glance ....... 18 oՖerings placed everywhere to the proces-19 ist, many locals exclaim ‘bung ujan,’ which
sions of joyfully garbed locals, shutting means today’s rain is cancelled – it’s their
MICHELE FALZONE/GETTY IMAGES © down major roads as they march to one way of saying that the hairless head is likeANDREY ARTYKOV/GETTY IMAGES ©
of the myriad temple ceremonies, to the a clear sky.
other-worldly traditional music and dance

performed island-wide. One Island, Many

Bali’s Essence Destinations

Yes, Bali has beaches, surÀng, diving, and On Bali you can lose yourself in the chaos
resorts great and small, but it’s the essence of Kuta or the sybaritic pleasures of Semin-
of Bali – and the Balinese – that makes it yak and Kerobokan, surf wild beaches in
so much more than just a fun-in-the-sun the south or just hang-out on Nusa Lem-
retreat. It is possible to take the cliché of bongan. You can go family friendly in

20

01-welcome-to-bal14.indd 2 TJETJEP RUSTANDI/GETTY IMAGES © 12/12/2012 2:48:54 PM

What’s MATTHEW MICAH WRIGHT/GETTY IMAGES ©
New Lombok, our author

down the fresh, the r

the transformed, thHe iking Rinjani Surfing Lombok Sunrise Over
18happening. Here are Glance at a map of Trawangan
favourites. For up-to Lombok and virtually 19 From Lombok to the
Antarctic is virtually 20 If you think Gili
the entire northern half of half the globe – that’s some Trawangan (p288)
the island is dominated by distance for the azure rollers is a stunner by daylight, you
TRAVELSTOCK44/ALAMY © of the Indian Ocean to build should see it at dawn after a
reviews and recommthe brooding, magniÀcent up speed and momentum, night of dancing to some of
presence of Gunung Rinjani so it’s no surprise that the the hottest electro, trance,
island’s coastline has some reggae and house music in
lonelyplanet.com/in(3726m; p276), Indonesia’s truly spectacular waves. Tan- the region. You won’t Ànd
second-highest volcano. jung Desert (Desert Point) slick decor, Áashy visuals,
and lonelyplanet.coHiking Rinjani is no picnic, is the most famous of these, door staՖ and stiՖ entrance
and involves planning, hiring an incredibly long ride that prices in Trawangan, where
tubes over a sharp, shallow the parties started as raves
lombok. a guide and porters, stamina reef. If that sounds a little too on the beach and still have
and sweat. The route winds hard core, head to the town a raw, unorganised spirit.
of Kuta, where you’ll Ànd Local DJs normally spin
up the sides of the great dozens of challenging surf hypnotic tribal sounds and
breaks a short distance away. superstar DJs have been
peak until you reach the known to turn up and play
unannounced sets. Quiet
rim of a vast caldera, where sunrise on Gili Trawangan

there’s a jaw-dropping view 20/12/2012 1:47:41 PM

Unesco Recognition Traffic Schemes of Rinjani’s sacred crater

1 After years of waiting, Bali rejoiced lake (an important pilgrim
when Unesco added its traditional
rice-growing culture to the World Herit- 7 Visitors and residensite) and the smoking, highly
age List. Included: the Jatiluwih rice ter- active mini-cone of Gunung
races and Pura Taman Ayun. (p248) up with south Bali’sBaru below. Danau Segara
Anak with Gunung Baru, inside

jams. A complex new inGtunung Rinjani

Jl Ngurah Rai Bypass an

of Kuta is one scheme m

Popular Canggu (p168) 03-top-experiences-bal14.indd 15

2 Shops, restaurants and inns are Lombok Internationa
giving vitality to the villas and rice
Àelds of the Canggu area. The long, wave- 8 The long-completed
pounded beaches are ever-more popular. new Lombok Intern
(p89) near Praya is Ànally ope

Kerobokan’s Beach with more international
Áights. (p375)

3 Gl t d lb Dive Schools Galore

PAGE UNDERSTAND GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP
Learn about the big picture, so you
305 BALI & LOMBOK05-whats-new-bal14.indd 18 can make sense of19/12/2012 3:49:35 PM what you see

Bali & Lombok Today ..... 306 Bali & Lombok
History............................. 308 Today
Local Life & Religion....... 318
Food & Drink ................... 329 Local Life & Change Without Change
The Arts........................... 337 Religion ‘This nation of artists is faced with a Western invasion, and I cannot stand
Architecture.................... 349 idly by and watch its destruction.’ Andre Roosevelt, wrote this in 1930. Yet
Environment ................... 356 Bali somehow the Balinese have always found a way to stay true to themselves
Ask any traveller what they love about Bali and, most times, ‘culture’ – n: whether in the face of invasions from Java or volcanoes exploding, or while
sometimes expressed as ‘the people’ – will top their list. Since the 1920s, on; welcoming three million visitors annually. Who can question the ingenuity
when the Dutch used images of bare-breasted Balinese women to lure of people who fly kites so they can have fun and talk to the gods?
tourists, Bali has embodied the mystique and glamour of an exotic para
dise. e of Worrisome Developments
sed
For all the romanticism, there is a harsher reality. For many Ba inese, uc- Unconstrained development threatens some of the very qualities that
ife remains a near hand-to-mouth existence, even as the islan ros ers ma e Ba i a wonderful place to visit. The coast is especial y vu nera e. In
ue to tourism and the middle class grows. And the idea of cu ture can
sometimes seem misplaced as overzealous touts test your atience in 2000, for example, rice fields extended north from Seminya a the way
their efforts to make a living.
NTIMACY to Pura Tanah Lot Today this landscape is almost lost to villas and tour

ISBN 978-1-74220-303-4

52599

23-bali-lombok-today-bal14.indd 306 12/12/2012 3:01:59 PM

9 781742 203034

PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE
ROAD In-depth reviews, detailed listings
46 and insider tips

É North Bali
p230
Central East Bali Gili Islands
West Bali Mountains p179 p286
p245 Lombok
p215 p258

Ubud &
Around

p137

Kuta & South Bali &
Seminyak the Islands

p48 p94

PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO
GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP
363

Directory A–Z ................. 364 cash at the time
Transport ........................ 374 ment.) Some pol
Health .............................. 383 to call back (reve
Language ........................ 388 to a centre in you
Index ................................ 398 country where an
Map Legend .................... 407 assessment of yo
is made.

Health Recommen
Vaccinatio
Treatment for minor injuries BEFORE YOU GO
and common traveller’s Specialised trave
health problems is easily Make sure all medications clinics are your b
accessed in Bali and to a are packed in their original, of information; th
lesser degree on Lombok. clearly labelled containers. available vaccine
However, for serious condi- A signed and dated letter be able to give sp
tions, you will need to leave from your physician describ- ommendations fo
the islands. ing your medical conditions your trip.
and medications (including
Travellers tend to worry generic names) is also a Most vaccines
about contracting infec- good idea. If you are carrying produce immunit
tious diseases when in the syringes or needles, be sure least two weeks a
tropics, but infections are a to have a physician’s letter given. Ask your d
rare cause of serious illness documenting their medical an International C
or death in travellers. Pre- necessity. If you have a heart of Vaccination (o
existing medical conditions, condition ensure you bring known as the yel
such as heart disease, and a copy of your electrocar- which will list all t
accidental injury (especially diogram taken just prior to tions you’ve rece
traffic accidents) account travelling.
for most life-threatening The World Hea
problems. Becoming ill in If you take any regular zation recommen
some a ho e er is rela medication bring double Southeast Asia in
following:
» Hepatitis A Pr
almost 100% pro
up to a year; a bo

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY 12/12/2012 3:04:07 PM

Ryan Ver Berkmoes,
33-health-bal14.indd 383
Adam Skolnick

Welcome to

Bali &
Lombok

A Place Like No Other the smiling Balinese too far, but in reality,
the inhabitants of this small island are in-
Bali is like no other destination in the deed a generous, genuinely warm people.
world. Its rich culture plays out at all lev- There’s also a fun, sly sense of humour
els of life, from the exquisite flower-petal behind the smiles. Upon seeing a bald
offerings placed everywhere to the proces- tourist, many locals exclaim ‘bung ujan,’
sions of joyfully garbed locals, shutting which means today’s rain is cancelled – it’s
down major roads as they march to one their way of saying that the hairless head
of the myriad temple ceremonies, to the is like a clear sky.
other-worldly traditional music and dance
performed island-wide. One Island, Many
Destinations
Bali’s Essence
On Bali you can lose yourself in the chaos
Yes, Bali has beaches, surfing, diving, and of Kuta or the sybaritic pleasures of Semin-
resorts great and small, but it’s the essence yak and Kerobokan, surf wild beaches in
of Bali – and the Balinese – that makes it the south or just hang out on Nusa Lem-
so much more than just a fun-in-the-sun bongan. You can go family friendly in
retreat. It is possible to take the cliché of

IAN TROWER/GETTY IMAGES © 3

The mere mention of
Bali evokes thoughts of a
paradise. It’s more than
a place; it’s a mood, an
aspiration, a tropical state
of mind.

(left) Sunset at Champlung (p82), Seminyak Beach
(below) Walking in rice terraces, Ubud (p145)

MARTIN PUDDY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Sanur or savour a lavish getaway on the centre to untrodden idyllic beaches like
Bukit Peninsula. Ubud is the heart of Bali, Mawun, it rewards travellers who want to
a place where the spirit and culture of the explore. Many are drawn to mighty Gu-
island are most accessible. It shares the nung Rinjani, Indonesia’s second-highest
island’s most beautiful rice fields and an- volcano. Rivers and waterfalls gush down
cient monuments with east and west Bali. its fissured slopes, while its summit –
The middle of Bali is dominated by the complete with hot springs and a dazzling
dramatic volcanoes of the central moun- crater lake – is the ultimate trekker prize.
tains and hillside temples such as Pura The fabled Gili Islands – three exquisite
Luhur Batukau (one of the island’s 20,000). droplets of white sand sprinkled with
North and west Bali are thinly populated coconut palms and surrounded by coral
but have diving and surfing that make any reefs teeming with marine life and, on Gili
journey worthwhile. Trawangan, legendary nightlife.

Lombok & the Gilis, Too

Almost as big as Bali, Lombok is the undis-
covered place next door. From its volcanic





6

20

TOP

EXPERIENCES

A Festival of Festivals Aaah, a Spa

1 There you are sipping a coffee at a cafe 2 Whether it’s a total fix for the mind,
in, say, Seminyak or Ubud, when there’s body and spirit, or simply the desire
a crash of the gamelan (traditional Balinese for a bit of serenity, visitors to Bali spend
orchestra) and traffic screeches to a halt many happy hours (sometimes days) being
as a crowd of elegantly dressed people massaged, scrubbed, perfumed, pampered,
comes flying by, bearing pyramids of fruit, bathed and blissed out. Sometimes all this
tasselled parasols and a furred, masked attention to your well-being happens on
Barong (mythical lion-dog creature) or the beach or in a garden; other times it’s in
two. It’s a temple procession disappearing stylish, even lavish, surroundings. As the
as suddenly as it appeared, with no more Balinese massage techniques of stretching,
than the fleeting sparkle of gold and white long strokes, skin rolling and palm-and-
silk and hibiscus petals in its wake. Dozens thumb pressure result in an all-over feeling
occur daily across Bali. Balinese ceremony, of calm, it’s the perfect holiday prescription.
Kuta, Bali Spa with banana-leaf wrapping, Ubud (p144)

7

TOM COCKREM/GETTY IMAGES © MATTHEW WAKEM/GETTY IMAGES ©

8 Bali’s Food

Sybaritic Stays 4 ‘Oh goody!’ It’s virtually impossible not
to say this when you step into a classic
3 On an island that honours art and seren- warung (food stall) for lunch to find dozens of
ity, is it any wonder you’ll find some of the freshly made dishes on the counter await-
world’s finest hotels and resorts? From blissful ing you. It shouldn’t surprise that this fertile
retreats on south Bali’s beautiful beach in island provides a profusion of ingredients that
Kerobokan or Seminyak to perches on cliffs combine to create fresh and aromatic dishes.
above the dazzling white sands that dot the Local specialities such as babi guling (roast
Bukit Peninsula, these stylish hotels are as suckling pig that’s been marinated for hours in
lovely outside as they are luxurious inside. spices) will have you lining up again and again.
Further resorts by vaunted architects can be Try lunch at one of the excellent Balinese
found in Ubud’s river valleys and in remote cafes in Denpasar (p123). Bowls of traditional
idyllic coastal locations. Hotel resort, Nusa Indonesian food in Ubud
Lembongan (p127)

3

ANDREW BROWNBILL/GETTY IMAGES ©

9NIELS VAN GIJN/GETTY IMAGES © ZUBIN SHROFF/GETTY IMAGES ©
45

6

TOONMAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Offerings Crafts of the Islands

5 A wisp of smoke rises from an incense 6 Using a simple knife others might use to
stick perched in an exquisite array of cut an apple, a Balinese craftsman sits in
orange flower petals on a banana leaf no big- the shade of his family compound’s frangipani
ger than a deck of cards. You’ll quickly realise tree and carves a masterpiece. Yes, schlock is
these Balinese offerings are everywhere – sold here in profusion, as it is everywhere, but
outside your hotel room door, a tiny shrine true local crafts draw on experience handed
on the beach, even at the end of the bar. They down for generations. Wood carvings are
come in all shapes and sizes and are made used for temple ceremonies and traditional
throughout the day and night. Some are grand performances such as the Barong, where col-
assemblages of fruit and food but most are ourful, animated wooden masks are integral
tiny, appearing as if by magic. to the story, while in Batubulan (p174) stone
carvers create art from rocks. Woodcarver,
Ubud

10 8
7 9

JOHN W BANAGAN/GETTY IMAGES © JOHN W BANAGAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

IMAGEBROKER/ALAMY ©/GETTY IMAGES ©

Ubud Balinese Dance Kuta’s Never-
Ending Night
7 Famous in books and 8 The antithesis of Bal-
movies, the artistic heart inese mellow is Balinese 9 It starts with styl-
of Bali exudes a compelling dance (p337). It’s amaz- ish cafes and bars in
spiritual appeal. The streets ing how people who relish Seminyak, open-air places
are lined with galleries lounging in bales (open-sided where everything seems just
where artists, both humble pavilions) can also produce that bit more beautiful amid
and great, create. Beautiful art that demands complete the twinkling of candles and
performances showcasing methodical precision. A enrapturing house beats.
the island’s rich culture grace performer of the Legong, the Later the world-class clubs
a dozen stages nightly. Mu- most beautiful dance, spends of Kuta (p69), Bali, draw you
seums honour the works of years learning minutely in, with famous international
those inspired here over the choreographed movements DJs spinning their legendary
years, while people walk the from her eyeballs to her sets in a glam scene that
rice fields to find the perfect toes. Each movement has a hints at immediate celebrity.
spot to sit in lotus position meaning and the language Some time before dawn,
and ponder life’s endless flows with a grace that is Kuta’s harder, rawer clubs
possibilities. Ubud (p138) is a hypnotic. Clad in silk and suck you in like black holes,
state of mind and a beautiful ikat, the dancers tell stories spitting you out hours later
state of being. Women carry- rich with the very essence of into an unsteady daylight,
ing temple offerings, Ubud Balinese Hindu beliefs and shattered but happy. Beach
lore. Legong dancers, Ubud bar at night

Jatiluwih Rice Fields 11

10 Ribbons of green sinuously curve Underwater Gilis
around hillsides crested by coconut
palms: the ancient rice terraces of Jatiluwih 11 Taking the plunge? There are few better
(p227) are as artful as they are elegant, and places than the Gilis, encircled by coral
a timeless testimony to the Balinese rice farm- reefs teeming with life and visited by pelagics
ers’ love and respect for the land. You’ll run out such as cruising manta rays. Scuba diving is
of words for green as you walk, bike or drive a huge draw – there are several professional
the little road that wanders through this fertile schools and all kinds of courses taught (from
bowl of the island’s sacred grain. The entire absolute beginner to nitrox specialist). With
area was recognised in 2012 by Unesco when easy access from beach to reef, snorkelling
they added Bali’s rice-growing traditions to is also superb, and you’re very likely to see
the World Heritage List. turtles. Want to take snorkelling to the next
level? Try freediving – Trawangan has one of
Asia’s only breath-hold diving centres (p292).
View of Gili Trawangan (p288)

10

PETE ATKINSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

11

KIMBERLEY COOLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

12 13
12

TRAVELIB INDONESIA/GETTY IMAGES ©
WOLFGANG POELZER/GETTY IMAGES ©

Diving Bali Selong Bukit Peninsula
Blanak Beaches
12 Feel small as a manta
ray blocks out the 13 Southern Lombok’s 14 A little plume of white
sun’s glow overhead, its fluid coastline has a wild sand rises out of the
movement causing barely a savage beauty and few blue Indian Ocean and fills a
disturbance in the surround- visitors, generating lots of cove below limestone cliffs
ing waters as it glides past. talk about the vast tourism clad in deep green tropical
And there’s another, and potential of the region. When beauty. It sounds idyllic,
another. Just when you think you set eyes on pristine and it is. The west coast of
your dive can’t get more Selong Blanak beach (p283), the Bukit Peninsula (p96)
dramatic, you turn to find a it’s easy to appreciate the in south Bali is dotted with
2.5m sunfish hovering hype. Cross over a rickety beaches like that, such as
motionlessly, checking you bridge from the village to Balangan Beach, Bingin and
out. Nusa Penida (p131) a perfect swath of sand Padang Padang. Families run
is but one of the many where the swimming in clear, funky surfer bars built on
dive sites ringing Bali. The turquoise-tinged water is su- bamboo stilts over the tide,
legendary 30m wall at Pulau perb. At the rear of the bay is where the only views are the
Menjangan (p256) thrills, one a crescent of powdery white breaks metres away. Grab a
dive after another. Inside the sand. Most days this dream lounger and be lulled by the
wreck of the Liberty (p212) of a beach is all but empty. waves. Clifftop cafe, Ulu Watu
Boats on Selong Blanak beach Beach, Bukit Peninsula

13
14

JOHN BORTHWICK/GETTY IMAGES ©

Surfing Bali 15

15 If it’s a month RICHARD MASCHMEYER/GETTY IMAGES ©
containing the letter
‘r’, go east; during the other
months, go west. Simplicity
itself. And on Bali you have
dozens of great breaks in
each direction. This was
the first place in Asia where
surfing took off, and like the
perfect set, it shows no signs
of calming down. Surfers
buzz around the island
on motorbikes with board
racks, looking for the next
great break. Waves blown
out? Another spot is just five
minutes’ away. The scene
at classic surfer hang-outs
such as Balian Beach (p250)
is pure funk. Sunset, Kuta
Beach, Bali

14 Seminyak

Kuta Beach 17 People wander around Seminyak (p74)
and ask themselves if they are even
16 Tourism on Bali began here (p50) in Bali. Of course! On an island that values
and is there any question why? The creativity like few other places, the capital of
sweeping arc of sand curves from Kuta into glitz is where you’ll find inventive boutiques
the misty horizon northwest to Echo Beach. run by local designers, the most eclectic and
Surf that started far out in the Indian Ocean interesting collection of restaurants, and little
crashes to shore in long symmetrical breaks. boutique hotels that break with the island
You can stroll the 12km of sand, enjoying a clichés. Expats, locals and visitors alike idle
foot massage and cold beer with thousands of away the hours in its cafes, at ease with the
your new best friends in the south, or revel in world and secure in their enjoyment of life’s
utter solitude up north. Kuta Beach was and pleasures. Ku De Ta (p83), Seminyak
always will be Bali’s best beach. Sunset, Kuta
Beach, Bali

16

MATTHEW MICAH WRIGHT/GETTY IMAGES ©

17

TRAVELSTOCK44/ALAMY ©

MICHELE FALZONE/GETTY IMAGES © 15ANDREY ARTYKOV/GETTY IMAGES ©
18 19

20

TJETJEP RUSTANDI/GETTY IMAGES ©

Hiking Rinjani Surfing Lombok Sunrise Over
Trawangan
18 Glance at a map of 19 From Lombok to the
Lombok and virtually Antarctic is virtually 20 If you think Gili
the entire northern half of half the globe – that’s some Trawangan (p288)
the island is dominated by distance for the azure rollers is a stunner by daylight, you
the brooding, magnificent of the Indian Ocean to build should see it at dawn after a
presence of Gunung Rinjani up speed and momentum, night of dancing to some of
(3726m; p276), Indonesia’s so it’s no surprise that the the hottest electro, trance,
second-highest volcano. island’s coastline has some reggae and house music in
Hiking Rinjani is no picnic, truly spectacular waves. Tan- the region. You won’t find
and involves planning, hiring jung Desert (Desert Point) slick decor, flashy visuals,
a guide and porters, stamina is the most famous of these, door staff and stiff entrance
and sweat. The route winds an incredibly long ride that prices in Trawangan, where
up the sides of the great tubes over a sharp, shallow the parties started as raves
peak until you reach the reef. If that sounds a little too on the beach and still have
rim of a vast caldera, where hard core, head to the town a raw, unorganised spirit.
there’s a jaw-dropping view of Kuta, where you’ll find Local DJs normally spin
of Rinjani’s sacred crater dozens of challenging surf hypnotic tribal sounds and
lake (an important pilgrim breaks a short distance away. superstar DJs have been
site) and the smoking, highly known to turn up and play
active mini-cone of Gunung unannounced sets. Quiet
Baru below. Danau Segara sunrise on Gili Trawangan
Anak with Gunung Baru, inside

Gunung Rinjani

16 Language

Need to » Bahasa Indonesia
Know and Balinese

Currency
» Rupiah (Rp)

When to Go Your Daily
Budget
North Bali Gili Islands
GO year-round GO year-round Budget less than

Ubud # US$100
# GO year-round
Lombok » Room at
South Bali GO year-round guesthouse/homestay:
GO year-round less than US$50

Tropical climate, wet & dry seasons » Cheap food and
Tropical climate, rain year-round drink, especially at
places with local foods
High Season Shoulder Low Season
(Jul & Aug) (May, Jun & Sep) (Jan–Apr, Oct & » Can survive on
Nov) US$40 per day
» Rates zip up by » Coincides with the
50% or more. best weather (drier, » Deals everywhere, Midrange
less humid). good airfares.
» Many hotels are US$100
booked far ahead; » You may find a » Rainy season; –220
the best restaurants room deal, and last- however, rainfall is
need to be booked in minute bookings are never excessive. » Room at midrange
advance. possible. hotel: US$50–US$150
» Can do most
» Christmas and » Best time for many activities except » Can eat and drink
New Year are equally activities such as volcano treks. almost anywhere
expensive and diving.
crowded. » Spa treatments and
other luxuries

Top End over

US$220

» Room at top-end
hotel/resort: over
US$150

» Major expenses will
be lavish spas

17

Money Visas Mobile Phones Driving PLAN YOUR TRIP NEED TO KNOW

» ATMs in all but » Usually a renewable » Cheap local SIM » Drive on the left;
rural areas on Bali 30 days granted on cards work with any steering wheel is on
and tourist areas of arrival. unlocked GSM phone. the right-hand side of
Lombok. Credit cards the car.
accepted at midrange
and top-end hotels and
restaurants.

Websites Exchange Rates Arriving in
Bali
» Bali Advertiser Australia A$1 8760Rp
(www.baliadvertiser. Canada C$1 8880Rp » Ngurah Rai Airport
biz) Bali’s expat journal Japan ¥100 10,720Rp (DPS; aka Denpasar
with insider tips and New Zealand NZ$1 6830Rp or Bali) on Bali
good columnists. UK UK£1 14,130Rp
US US$1 8970Rp Taxi to Kuta –
» Bali Discovery Euro zone €1 12505Rp 50,000Rp
(www.balidiscovery. Taxi to Seminyak –
com) Excellent weekly For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com. 80,000Rp
summary of news and Taxi to Ubud –
features; hotel deals. Important Numbers 210,000Rp

» Bali Paradise (www. Bali has six telephone area codes and Lom- » Lombok
bali-paradise.com) bok has two. Numbers that begin with 08 are International Airport
Compendium site of mobiles. Drop the 0 in phone numbers when (LOP) near Praya
info and links. calling from abroad.
Taxi to Kuta –
» Lombok Guide 60,000Rp
(www.thelombokguide. Taxi to Mataram –
com) Comprehensive 100,000Rp
site covering main Taxi to Senggigi –
areas of interest. 150,000Rp

» Lonely Planet (www. Indonesia country code %62
lonelyplanet.com/ International call prefix %001/017
indonesia) Destination International operator %102
information, hotel Directory assistance %108
bookings, traveller
forum and more.

Bali is Easy

Forgot something at home? You can get it on Bali. Don’t speak the language? They
probably speak yours. Afraid to get sick? You don’t need shots, and clean drinking
water and healthy food are readily available. Not sure how you’ll get around? Friendly
drivers will take care of that. Where to stay? Anywhere, from the world’s most luxuri-
ous hotels to welcoming family-run guesthouses. Is it safe? Probably safer than your
home town. But aren’t there touts and scammers? Easily avoided on 98% of the island.
How will I stay in touch? Fast wi-fi and mobile service in tourist areas mean friends at
home will see pics of every wave you ride. Is the food too hot? The cheeseburgers are
always served right off the grill. My biggest concern? Not wanting to leave.

18 For this new edition of Bali &
Lombok, our authors have hunted
What’s down the fresh, the revamped,
New the transformed, the hot and the
happening. Here are a few of our
favourites. For up-to-the-minute
reviews and recommendations, see
lonelyplanet.com/indonesia/bali
and lonelyplanet.com/indonesia/
lombok.

Unesco Recognition Traffic Schemes

1 After years of waiting, Bali rejoiced 7 Visitors and residents alike are fed
when Unesco added its traditional up with south Bali’s ceaseless traffic
rice-growing culture to the World Herit- jams. A complex new intersection of the
age List. Included: the Jatiluwih rice ter- Jl Ngurah Rai Bypass and Sunset Rd east
races and Pura Taman Ayun. (p248) of Kuta is one scheme meant to fix this.
(p168)
Popular Canggu
Lombok International
2 Shops, restaurants and inns are
giving vitality to the villas and rice 8 The long-completed, rather gleaming
fields of the Canggu area. The long, wave- new Lombok International Airport
pounded beaches are ever-more popular. near Praya is finally open for business,
(p89) with more international and domestic
flights. (p375)
Kerobokan’s Beach
Dive Schools Galore
3 Glossy new resorts and clubs are
appearing along the beach north of 9 Several new dive schools have sprout-
Kerobokan. The W Resort and the Mozaic ed on the Gilis. Hence, formation of
and Potato Head beach clubs are but three the Gili Island Diving Association in 2012,
examples. (p85) an effort by the best of the bunch to safe-
guard local reefs and their guests. (p33)
Bukit Excitement
The Anti-Gilis
4 The cute little beaches of the Bukit
Peninsula from Jimbaran south to 10 Okay, technically they’re Gilis
Ulu Watu are gaining yet more offbeat too, but Gili Gede and Gili Asa-
and often creative boutique lodgings and han have a far more removed, untram-
beach cafes. (p96) meled and tranquil feel than their famed
counterparts. (p264)
New Airport
Way Out Lombok’s West
5 Bali’s Ngurah Rai Airport will get
a huge new terminal, replacing its 11 The spectacular white-sand beach
over-crowded old facility by 2014. The big of Selong Blanak and secluded bay
question: will they actually staff the many at Blongas have high-end villas, an elegant
dozens of immigration stations? (p374) cafe, and schooling hammerheads and
rays. (p283)
New Toll Road
Low-Rent Trawangan
6 By 2014 you’ll be able to zip over the
coastal mangroves in the south on 12 It’s no longer a backpacker king-
an elevated toll road that will link Sanur, dom, but with the opening of the
Nusa Dua and the airport. (p377) island’s first dedicated hostel, a bohemian
crash pad (Woodstock), and an exile
outpost (the Exile), Gili T value lives on.
(p288)

19

If You
Like…

Beaches Temples Nightlife

Beaches ring the islands, With over 20,000 temples, Nightclubs on Bali and the
Gilis draw acolytes from
but iconic ones with white Bali has such a variety that across Southeast Asia. The
large numbers of relatively
sand are not as common as you can’t even categorise well-heeled tourists and
nonexistent licensing laws
you’d think – most are some them. The best evoke the have spawned an ever-
changing line up of clubs
variation of tan or grey. Surf great traditions of the that book celebrity DJs
spinning mixes that are
conditions range from limp island’s unique form of Bud- soon heard worldwide.
Bouncing from one club to
to torrid, depending on dhism that has been shaped another all night long is a
Bali tradition, guaranteeing
whether there’s an offshore by priests and prophets for overheating from the exer-
tion, the mixes, the booze,
reef. centuries. the companionship or all of
the above.
Seminyak Beach This wide Pura Luhur Batukau One of
stretch of sand boasts great surf Bali’s most important temples Seminyak Start the evening in
that both swimmers and surfers is found far up its namesake hipster/scenester hang-outs
can frolic in. It’s a place enjoyed volcano. It’s a misty, remote where the glow of candles
by locals and visitors alike – place that is steeped in ancient makes everyone beautiful (p82)
especially at sunset (p74) spirituality (p228)
Kuta All raw energy and a mad
Balangan Beach This curving Pura Taman Ayu A beautiful mix of party-goers, from Marg
white-sand beach on the Bukit moated temple that has a royal from Melbourne having her
Peninsula, backed by an im- past; part of Unesco’s recogni- first big night out to Made from
promptu resort, is ramshackle tion of Bali’s rice traditions Munduk enjoying every aspect
in an endearing way and perfect (p248) of modern Balinese life (p69)
for a snooze or booze (p99)
Pura Pusering Jagat One of Gili Trawangan The place for
Gili Island beaches The the famous temples at Pejeng, pounding beats and searing
beaches on these three islands which date to the 14th-century mixes three times weekly
are uniformly gorgeous, with empire that once flourished (p296)
circles of white sand, great snor- here (p172)
kelling and a timeless traveller
vibe (p286) Pura Luhur Ulu Watu As impor-
tant as it is popular, the temple
Selong Blanak An idyllic has sweeping Indian Ocean
Lombok wonder that astounds views, sunset dance perform-
first-time visitors (p283) ances and monkeys (p103)

20

ANDREW BROWNBILL/GETTY IMAGES ©

PLAN YOUR TRIP IF YOU LIKE...
» Gamelan musicians (p339) perform during the Bali Arts Festival

Culture Great Food Shopping

The island’s creative herit- Balinese food is pungent For some people Bali is a
and lively; there is nothing
age is everywhere you shy about this cuisine. You’ll destination for shopping;
find shades of South Indian,
look and there’s nothing Malaysian and Chinese for others it becomes their
flavours in the island’s food.
manufactured about what It has evolved from years destiny. You’ll find a pletho-
of cross-cultural cook-ups
you see. Dance and musical and trading with sea-faring ra of shops and stalls across
pioneers, and perhaps even
performances are the result pirates, across the seas the island – everything from
of Asia. And your dining
of an ever-evolving culture won’t be limited to local cheap T-shirt vendors to
fare either: excellent cuisine
with a legacy of centuries. drawn from around the exquisite boutiques with al-
globe is on offer.
Villages save their highest luring housewares and fash-
Seminyak Hands down the
honours for the artists who place with the greatest variety of ion by local designers with
top restaurants; on a 10-minute
live there. The culture is stroll you can wander the world worldwide followings.
of food (p79)
vibrant and accessible, and Seminyak It seems you can’t
Kerobokan The go-to area run into someone in Seminyak
one of the aspects of a trip for the hottest and best and not have them claim to be
restaurants, plus some superb a designer; the reality is that
to Bali that make it like no simple Balinese warung (food many actually are. The shopping
stalls; p86) scene here is constantly chang-
other. ing: new boutiques appear, old
Denpasar Truly local cafes ones vanish, some change into
Dance Rigid choreography serve exceptional Balinese and something else while others
and high levels of discipline Indonesian food in simple sur- move up the food chain. The
are hallmarks of beautiful, me- rounds (p123) odds that you’ll stumble upon a
lodic Balinese dance. No visit is star of tomorrow are good (p83)
complete without enjoying this Ubud A profusion of restaurants
purely Balinese art form (p337) and cafes, many organic (p159) Kerobokan The next Seminyak
in every sense. Starting to
Gamelan The ensemble or- match its tiny neighbour to the
chestra makes its unforgettable south for energy and creativity
music on bamboo and bronze (p88)
instruments, and can be heard
at every dance performance and Ubud Excellent for handicrafts
temple celebration (p339) and art (p167)

Painting Balinese and Western
styles merged in the 20th cen-
tury and the results are often
extraordinary. See some of the
best in Ubud’s museums (p341)

21

Month Top Events PLAN YOUR TRIP MONTH BY MONTH
by
Month Nyepi, March or April

Galungan & Kuningan, varies
Ubud Writers & Readers
Festival, October
Bali Arts Festival, June to July
Perang Topat, November
or December

February another year. The night May
before Nyepi sees com-
The rainy season pours munity celebrations with A great month for visiting.
on and the islands take ogoh-ogoh, huge papier- It’s not high season but
a breather after the mâché monsters that the annual rains have
Christmas and New Year’s go up in flames. Held in stopped (although you’ll
high season. March or early April. still get downpours at any
time). Trails are drying out
z Nyale Festival April for hiking yet the rivers
The ritual harvest- are still high for rafting.
ing of nyale (wormlike sea The islands dry out after
fish) takes place on Seger the rainy season, but z Bali Art Festival
beach near Lombok’s Kuta. things remain quiet on the of Buleleng
The evening begins with visitor front. Every year Singaraja hosts
poetry readings, continues this large arts festival in
with gamelan performances z Bali Spirit north Bali. Over one week,
and carries on until the Festival dancers and musicians from
dawn when the nyale start A fast-growing yoga, dance some of the region’s most
appearing. Usually February and music festival (www. renowned village troupes,
but also in March. balispiritfestival.com) from such as those of Jagaraga,
the people behind the Yoga perform.
March Barn in Ubud. There are
over 100 workshops and June
The rainy season is ending concerts, plus a market and
and there is a lull in the more. It’s usually held in The airport is getting
crowds as this is low early April but may begin in busier, but much of what
season for tourism. late March. makes May a good month
also applies in June.
z Nyepi (Day of 1 Malean Sampi
Silence) Buffalo race over z Bali Arts
Bali’s major Hindu fes- waterlogged earth in Nar- Festival
tival, Nyepi (p326) cel- mada, near Mataram on Denpasar’s arts festival
ebrates the end of the old Lombok. Jockeys tear down (p122) is the premier event
year and the start of the the track, clinging onto a on Bali’s cultural calendar.
next. It’s marked by couple of stampeding yoked Based at the Taman Wedhi
inactivity – to convince buffalo. It’s as dangerous, Budaya arts centre, the
evil spirits that Bali is muddy and fun as it sounds. festival is a great way to see
uninhabited, so they’ll Early in the month. traditional Balinese dance
leave the island alone for and music. Village-based

22 PAUL KENNEDY/GETTY IMAGES ©

dance and musical groups
compete fiercely for local
pride. Held mid-June to
mid-July.

PLAN YOUR TRIP MONTH BY MONTH July

Along with August, July
is the busiest month for
visitors on Bali and the
Gilis (Lombok is always
rather quiet). Don’t expect
to have your pick of
places to stay, but do plan
to enjoy the energy of big
happy crowds.

z Bali Kite
Festival
In south Bali scores of kites
soar overhead much of the
year. Often huge (10m plus),
they fly at altitudes that
worry pilots. There’s a spir-
itual connection: the kites
urge the gods to provide
abundant harvests. During
this festival (p115) the skies
fill with these huge crea-
tions controlled by dozens
of villagers.

October (Above) Kites aloft at the Bali Kite Festival (p115)
(Below) Carved and painted demon masks (p348) at a festival in southern Bali
The skies darken more
often with seasonal rains, GREGORY ADAMS/GETTY IMAGES ©
but mostly the weather is
pleasant and the islands
go about their normal
business.

z Ubud Writers
& Readers
Festival
This Ubud festival (www.
ubudwritersfestival.com)
hosts scores of writers and
readers from around the
world in a celebration of
writing – especially that
which touches on Bali.

23

GALUNGAN & KUNINGAN PLAN YOUR TRIP MONTH BY MONTH

One of Bali’s major festivals, Galungan celebrates the death of a legendary tyrant
called Mayadenawa. During this 10-day period, all the gods come down to earth for
the festivities. Barong (mythical lion-dog) prance from temple to temple and vil-
lage to village, and locals rejoice with feasts and visits to families. The celebrations
culminate with the Kuningan festival, when the Balinese say thanks and goodbye to
the gods.

Every village in Bali will celebrate Galungan and Kuningan in grand style, and visitors
are welcome to join in.

The 210-day wuku (or Pawukon) calendar is used to determine festival dates. The
calendar uses 10 different types of weeks between one and 10 days long, which all run
simultaneously, and the intersection of the various weeks determines auspicious days.
Dates for future Galungan and Kuningan celebrations are as follows:

YEAR GALUNGAN KUNINGAN
2013 27 Mar & 23 Oct 6 Apr & 2 Nov
2014 21 May & 17 Dec 31 May & 27 Dec
2015 15 Jul 25 Jul

z Kuta Karnival z Perang Topat restaurants are booked
A big beach party on This ‘rice war’ on out and everybody is busy.
the big beach in Kuta (www. Lombok is fun. It takes place
kutakarnival.com); games, at Pura Lingsar just outside 1 Peresean
art, competitions, surfing Mataram and involves a cos- Martial arts,
and much more on the first tumed parade, and Hindus Lombok-style. Competitors,
October weekend and the and Wektu Telu pelting balls stripped to the waist, spar
days right before. of ketupat (sticky rice) at with sticks and cowhide
each other. Usually Novem- shields. The winner is the
November ber but also December. first to draw blood. It’s held
annually in Mataram. Late
It’s getting wetter, but December in the month.
not really so wet that you
can’t enjoy the islands to Visitors rain down on Bali
the fullest. Usually a quiet and the Gilis ahead of
month crowd-wise. the Christmas and New
Year holidays. Hotels and

24 Whether you’ve got three days
or 30, these itineraries provide
Itiner- a starting point for the trip of a
aries lifetime. Want more inspiration?
Head online to lonelyplanet.
com/thorntree to chat with other
travellers.

JAVA

BALI SEA

Pulau
Menjangan
•# •#Pemuteran
É
É É Munduk Gili
PuBraatJuLakutahiluu•#urw•#ih•#•#•#CGauK•#nnaduwUiknibÉugundingBAP•#LaI dangbai Islands
Selat É
Bali É •#

É f#

Selmat LOMBOK
Lombok
Kerobokan•#
Seminyak •# Nusa Selmat
•#Kuta Penida Alas

SUMBAWA

INDIAN OCEAN

Two Weeks

Bali & the Gilis

Start your trip in Seminyak, which has the best places to go out for a meal, a drink
or even a new frock. Allow at least three days to experience the refined charms of
Kerobokan and the wild nights of Kuta. Once you’re sated, head west, driving
through the rice terraces of Jatiluwih and on to Pura Luhur Batukau, a holy tem-
ple up in the clouds. Head northwest to the crescent of mellow beach resorts at Pemuteran.
From here, you can snorkel or scuba Bali’s best dive site at Palau Menjangan. Driving east,
stop in Munduk for some hiking to remote waterfalls.
Carry on via Candikuning to Ubud, the cultural centre of Bali. Nights of dance and
culture are offset by days of walking through the serene countryside. Do a day trip to the
ancient monuments at Gunung Kawi. Head down to the cute little beach and port town
of Padangbai and catch a fast boat to the Gili Islands. Wander the islands, enjoy Gili T’s
surprising nightlife and go snorkelling to spot a turtle.

25

BALI SEA

Munduk •# GunungÉ •# Gunung Gili Sembalun PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES
•# BatukauÉ Agung Islands GRuinnjuanngi •#•#Valley
É
Pura Luhur •# •# LOMBOK

Batukau É BALI É
•# Ubud •#
Balian •# É
Beach f# Senggigi

Denpasar •# •# f# Selat
Lombok
Balangan Sanur
É
É
JAVA •# •# Nusa Selat
Alas
Beach•# Pendida
Nusa SUMBAWA

Lembongan

INDIAN OCEAN •#
Kuta

Three Weeks

Total Bali & Lombok

Begin your trip at Balangan Beach. Settle back in the sand and let the jet lag vanish.
Stop in Denpasar for a purely Balinese lunch and then head up the hill to Ubud to
get a full taste of Balinese culture. Next, tackle Gunung Agung, the spiritual centre
of the island. Start early to reach the top and take in the views before the daily on-
slaught of clouds and mist.
Having climbed Bali’s most legendary peak, head west to the village of Munduk, which
looks down to the north coast and the sea beyond. Go for a walk in the area and enjoy water-
falls, truly tiny villages, wild fruit trees and the sinuous bands of rice paddies lining the hills
like ribbons. Then head south to the wonderful temple of Pura Luhur Batukau, and con-
sider a trek up Bali’s second-highest mountain, Gunung Batukau. Head down to the newly
popular Balian Beach on the west coast for some chilled-out time in a funky surfer scene.
Next, bounce across the waves from Sanur to Nusa Lembongan, the island hiding in
the shadow of Nusa Penida. The latter is visible from much of the south and east – it’s lush,
arid and almost unpopulated and makes a good day trip. Take in the amazing vistas from its
cliffs and dive under the waves to check out the marine life.
Head to the Gilis via the direct boat from Nusa Lembongan for more tranquil time cir-
cumnavigating the three islands and diving offshore. Take a boat to Senggigi, but ignore
the resorts and head south. Well off the beaten path, the south coast near Lombok’s Kuta
has stunning beaches and surfing to reward the intrepid. The seldom-driven back roads of
the interior will thrill the adventurous and curious, with tiny villages where you can learn
about the amazing local handicrafts. Many of these roads lead up the flanks of Gunung
Rinjani, the volcanic peak that shelters the lush and remote Sembalun Valley. Trekking
from one village to the next on the rim can take days but is one of the great walks.

26

Gunung •#
Kawi

É •# Sidemen
É Road
É
É
É Ubud •#É •# Pejeng

É ÉÉ •# •# •# Semarapura
É Mas
É Gianyar •# É
É É •#
É Sukawati •# Lebih

PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES ÉÉ Pura

•# Sanur Masceti

Kerobokan Pulua Selat Badung
•# Serangan
Denpasar Nusa
•# Lembongan
•#

Seminyak

Legian •# É

INDIAN Nusa Nusa
OCEAN Ceningan Penida

Jimbaran
Bay

Jimbaran •#

Ulu Watu •# Best of Bali
Bali Day Trips

One Week One Week

Bali Day Trips Best of Bali

This is for the traveller who wants to Start at a beachside hotel in Semin-
unpack only once, seeing what’s pos- yak or Kerobokan; shop the streets
sible on Bali during a series of relaxed of either and spend time at the beach.
day trips. Start with a beachside hotel Enjoy a seafood dinner on Jimbaran
in Sanur, such as Hotel La Taverna or Tand- Bay as part of a day trip to the monkey-filled
jung Sari, both of which have a refined yet temple at Ulu Watu.
relaxed charm. In the east, take the coast road to wild
Day trip one starts with the short drive beaches like the one near Pura Masceti,
to the markets and museums of Denpasar, followed by the well-mannered royal town
followed by a visit to the shops of Seminyak of Semarapura with its ruins. Head north
and Kerobokan. Finish up with a sunset up the breathtaking Sidemen Road, which
seafood grill at Jimbaran. combines rice terraces with lush river val-
Day trip two heads to Ubud for a half-day leys and cloud-shrouded mountains. Then
strolling the streets, looking at the shops, go west to Ubud, the crowning stop on any
galleries and museums. Take different routes itinerary.
there and back so you can enjoy sights such To spoil yourself, stay in one of Ubud’s
as the temples of Pejeng, the carvers of Mas many hotels with views across rice fields
and the village market at Sukawati. and rivers. Sample the offerings at a spa be-
Day trip three follows the wave-tossed fore you try one of the myriad great restau-
volcanic beaches along the coast road to rants. Bali’s rich culture is most celebrated
the northeast. Stop at Lebih, which has a and most accessible in Ubud and you’ll be
temple and mica-infused glittering sand. Go captivated by nightly dance performances.
inland to the temple ruins and market at Se- Check out local craft studios, including the
marapura, then head north along the beau- woodcarvers of Mas. Hike through the sur-
tiful Sidemen Road. Next, loop west and rounding rice fields to river valleys, taking a
head back down through the tidy regional break in museums bursting with paintings.
centre of Gianyar, where you can check out Finish by heading north to the imposing
large traditional fabric showrooms. 1000-year-old rock monoliths at Gunung
Kawi.

27

BALI SEA

Gili Gili •# Senaru
Trawangan Meno •# Gunung Rinjani
•# •#GAiilri
•# É
É
BALI PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES
É
Senggigi •# É
É É
Selat É Tetebatu •#
Lombok
É•# Pura Lingsar

•# Gunung Pengsong SUMBAWA
Selat
LOMBOK Alas

Gili Lombok Explored
Gede Gilis Explored
•# •#Tembowong

Selong Kuta
Blanak •# •# É •# Gerupak

INDIAN OCEAN

Two Weeks One Week

Lombok Explored Gilis Explored

Kick off in gorgeous Kuta and spend The ideal place to get to grips with
a day or two finding the perfect beach. island life is Gili Air, where the main
East or west of town there are a dozen beachfront strip is perfect tropical
or so bays to choose from: magnifi- lounging territory. Here you can wile
cent Selong Blanak is just one. While you’re away a day or two doing nothing but chill-
here, it would be rude not to sample the fa- ing with a book, taking a dip when you need
bled south Lombok surf – tiny Gerupak is to cool off, snorkelling the offshore coral
an excellent place to either take a lesson or (maybe you’ll spot a turtle) and feasting on
hitch a boat ride to an epic break. Tranquil inexpensive fresh seafood. OK, now you’ve
southwest Lombok is not far away for more acclimatised.
aqua action; swim in sheltered transparent Next up is Trawangan, where there’s
water or explore the dozen or so islands here much more action. Here the perfect day
by boat. Tiny Gili Gede makes a perfect base; could start with a morning dive at a site
you can reach it by boat from Tembowong. such as Shark Point, followed by a healthy
Sacred Gunung Rinjani is next up; get lunch and an afternoon snooze. Then take
here via roads from Tembowong. Either a gentle cycle round the sandy lanes of
explore its foothills from the rustic base of the island, slipping in a sunset cocktail on
Tetebatu, or go the whole hog and trek from the west coast. After dinner it’s time to
Senaru to the crater rim, the sublime cra- feel the beat and strut your stuff at one of
ter lake or the summit itself (depending on Trawangan’s parties, or catch a reggae band
your time, energy and commitment level). at Sama Sama.
After Rinjani your body will need some se- The final stop is idyllic Gili Meno, where,
rious pampering, and the spas of Senggigi once you’ve secured the perfect place to stay,
are the ideal place to recuperate, with mas- there’s little to do except wonder at the sheer
sages and treatments for all budgets. Finish drop-dead beauty of the island and the clar-
off with a trip or two to the sights around ity of the sea. If you can drag yourself away
Mataram, such as the intriguing temple of from the beach, you could pop by the turtle
Pura Lingsar or the hilltop shrine Gunung hatchery.
Pengsong.

PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES28 IAN TROWER/GETTY IMAGES ©

» (above) Boats at Mushroom Bay,ETIENNE ROUDAUT/GETTY IMAGES ©
Nusa Lembongan (p127)

» (left) Munduk Waterfall (p226)

29

Bali & Lombok
Outdoors

When to Go Bali offers so much more than a beach holi-
day with an overlay of amazing culture – it
The dry season, April to September, is best is an incredible place to get outside and play.
for long cycling trips, treks up volcanoes and Sure, you may have to get up off your beach
diving (as there’s less silt in the water). But towel, but the rewards are many.
the rest of the year is not that much rainier
and people hike, bike and otherwise enjoy In waters around the island you’ll find
themselves. The local bromide for surfing is world-class diving that ranges from reefs
go east during months containing the letter to shipwrecks to huge, rare sea life. When
‘r’ and west at other times. that water hits shore, it creates some of the
world’s best surfing. No matter what time of
Best Surfing year you visit, you’ll find legendary surf spots.

Ulu Watu World famous. (p103) On land, hikes abound through the luxu-
Tanjung Desert (Desert Point) Legendary riant green of the rice fields, deep into the
and elusive in Lombok. (p266) river valleys and up the sides of the three
Batu Bolong All-round great. (p89) main volcanoes. Or you can just whiz
through the beautiful scenery on a bike.
Best Diving &
Snorkelling Lombok doesn’t have the same level of
organisation but it has fine diving, surf-
Pulau Menjangan Spectacular 30m wall. ing (often in remote locations) and hiking,
(p256) including a famous volcano trek.
Tulamben Sunken WWII freighter; snorkel-
ling and diving from shore. (p212) Surfing
Gili Islands All types of diving and snorkel-
ling in beautiful waters. (p286) Surfing kick-started Bali tourism in the
1960s. It’s never looked back. Many Balinese
Best Hiking have taken to surfing, and the grace of tradi-
tional dancing is said to influence their style.
Munduk Lush, spice-scented, waterfall-
riven landscape. (p225) Where to Surf: Bali
Ubud Beautiful walks from one hour to one
day. (p145) Swells come from the Indian Ocean, so the
Tirta Gangga Rice terraces, gorgeous views surf is on the southern side of the island and,
and temples. (p204) strangely, on the northwest coast of Nusa

30

Bali & Lombok Surf Breaks e# 0 10 km
0 5 miles

\# Medewi Payangan Tampaksiring
ç# \# \# Rendang \#

Medewi Bali Bangli \#

PLAN YOUR TRIP BALI & LOMBOK OUTDOORS Lalang- \# Sangeh Pejeng Bukit \#
Linggah \# Antosari Ubud \# Jambal
Balian ç# \# \#

\# Mengwi \# Mas \# Gianyar

Selat Sea Lebih

Sempidi \#

ç# Lebih

Gili \# Batubulan
ç# Trawangan \# \# Ketewel
Selat Badung

Lombok ç# Batu Denpasar ç# Nusa
Bolong Ketewel Lembongan ç#:
^# ç#Sanur Reef; Jungutbatu\# :
Hyatt Reef
Desert #\ Seminyak

Point Kuta #\ Legian Nusa
ç#

\# Pelangan ç# #\ ç# Serangan Ceningan

Mawi Kuta Kuta Reef ç# Kuta
ç# #\ Benoa
Gerupak Bingin Bay \# Benoa
ç# ç# Balangan
#\ Nusa Dua
Impossibles ç# ç# Nusa Dua
Padang Padang ç# ç#

Ulu Watu ç# \#

Pecatu Bukit

INDIAN OCEAN South Coast ç# Peninsula

Lembongan, where the swell funnels into the high tide if there’s no wind. Lots of inns are
strait between there and the Bali coast. springing up here.

In the dry season (around April to Sep- Batu Bolong
tember), the west coast has the best breaks,
with the trade winds coming in from the North of Kerobokan, on the northern ex-
southeast; this is also when Nusa Lembon- tremity of the bay, Batu Bolong (often called
gan works best. In the wet season, surf the Canggu) has a nice light beach and many
eastern side of the island, from Nusa Dua surfers. An optimum size for Batu Bolong is
around to Padangbai. If there’s a north wind – 5ft to 6ft. There’s a good right-hander that
or no wind at all – there are also a couple you can really hook into, which works at
of breaks on the south coast of the Bukit high tide.
Peninsula.
Bingin
Note that breaks listed below almost al-
ways have good beaches of the same name North of Padang Padang and accessible by
at the surf’s edge. road, this spot can get crowded. It’s best at
mid-tide with a 6ft swell, when it manufac-
Balangan tures short but perfect left-hand barrels. The
cliffs backing the beach are lined with funky
Go through the growing Pecatu Indah resort accommodation.
and follow the road around to the right past
Dreamland to reach the Balangan warung. Impossibles
Balangan is a fast left over a shallow reef,
unsurfable at low tide, but good at mid-tide Just north of Padang Padang, this outside
with anything over a 4ft swell; with an 8ft reef break has three shifting peaks with fast
swell, this can be one of the classic waves. left-hand tube sections that can join up if
the conditions are perfect.
Balian
Ketewel & Lebih
There are a few peaks near the mouth of
Sungai Balian (Balian River) in western Bali. These two beaches are northeast of Sanur.
The best break here is an enjoyable and con- They’re both right-hand beach breaks, and
sistent left-hander that works well at mid- to are dodgy at low tide and close out over 6ft.

31

Kuta Area A bit to the south, Lacerations is a very PLAN YOUR TRIP BALI & LOMBOK OUTDOORS
fast, hollow right breaking over a very shal-
For your first plunge into the warm Indian low reef – hence the name. Still further
Ocean, try the breaks at Kuta’s beach. At full south is a smaller, more user-friendly left-
tide, go out near the life-saving club at the hander called Playground. Remember that
southern end of the beach road. At low tide, Lembongan is best with an easterly wind, so
try the tubes around Halfway Kuta, proba- it’s dry-season surfing.
bly the best place in Bali for beginners to prac-
tise. Start at the beach breaks if you are a bit Padang Padang
rusty, but treat even these breaks with respect.
Just Padang for short, this super-shallow,
Further north, the breaks at Legian Beach left-hand reef break is just north of Ulu
can be pretty powerful, with lefts and rights Watu towards Kuta. Check this place care-
on the sandbars off Jl Melasti and Jl Padma. fully before venturing out. It’s a very de-
manding break that only works over about
For more serious stuff, go to the reefs south 6ft from mid- to high tide. It’s a great place
of the beach breaks, about a kilometre out to to watch from the clifftop.
sea. Kuta Reef, a vast stretch of coral, pro-
vides a variety of waves. You can paddle out If you can’t surf tubes, backhand or fore-
in around 20 minutes, but the easiest way is hand, don’t go out: Padang is a tube. After a
by boat, for a fee. The main break is a classic ledgy take-off, you power along the bottom
left-hander, best at mid- to high tide, with a before pulling up into the barrel. Not a wave
5ft to 6ft swell, when it peels across the reef for the faint-hearted and definitely not a
and has a beautiful inside tube section. wave to surf when there’s a crowd.

As elsewhere, when in doubt here, ask the Sanur
locals.
Sanur Reef has a hollow wave with excel-
Medewi lent barrels. It’s fickle, and doesn’t even start
until you get a 6ft swell, but anything over
Further along the south coast of western 8ft will be world-class, and anything over
Bali is a softer left called Medewi. It’s a point 10ft will be brown-boardshorts material.
break that can give a long ride right into There are other reefs further offshore and
the river mouth. This wave has a big drop, most of them are surfable.
which fills up then runs into a workable in-
side section. There’s accommodation nearby. Hyatt Reef, over 2km from shore, has a
shifty right peak that can give a great ride
Nusa Dua at full tide. The classic right is off the Grand
Bali Beach Hotel.
During the wet season, you should surf on
the east side of the island, where there are Serangan
some very fine reef breaks. The reef off Nusa
Dua has very consistent swells. The main The development at Pulau Serangan (Turtle
break is 1km off the beach to the south of Island) has caused huge disruption on the
Nusa Dua – go past the golf course and look southern and eastern sides of the island;
for the row of warung (food stalls), and paradoxically, these changes to the shape
some boats to take you out. There are lefts of the shore have made the surf here much
and rights that work well on a small swell at more consistent. In addition, the causeway
low- to mid-tide. Further north, in front of has made the island more accessible, and
the Club Med, there is a fast, barrelling right several warung face the water, where waves
reef break called Sri Lanka, which works break right and left in anything over a 3ft
best at mid-tide. swell.

Nusa Lembongan South Coast

In the Nusa Penida group, this island is sep- The extreme south coast, around the end
arated from the southeast coast of Bali by of the Bukit Peninsula, can be surfed any
Selat Badung (Badung Strait). time of the year provided there is a north-
erly wind, or no wind at all – get there very
The strait is very deep and generates early to avoid onshore winds. The peninsula
huge swells that break over the reefs off is fringed with reefs, and big swells are pro-
the northwest coast of Lembongan. Ship- duced, but access is a problem; the shoreline
wreck, clearly visible from the beach, is the is all cliff. Try the steps down to the beach
most popular break, a longish right that gets
a good barrel at mid-tide with a 5ft swell.

32

PLAN YOUR TRIP BALI & LOMBOK OUTDOORS at Pura Mas Suka or charter a boat on a day sive wave that was voted the ‘best wave in
with no wind and a small swell. the world’ by Tracks magazine. Only suit-
able for very experienced surfers, it’s a fickle
Ulu Watu beast, in a region known for long, flat spells.

When Kuta Reef is 5ft to 6ft, Ulu Watu, the On its day this left-handed tube can offer
most famous surfing break in Bali, will be a 300m ride, growing in size from take-off
6ft to 8ft with bigger sets. It’s way out on to close-out (which is over razor-sharp cor-
the southern extremity of the bay and conse- al). Desert Point only really performs when
quently picks up more swell than Kuta. there’s a serious ground swell – May to Sep-
tember offers the best chance. Wear a helmet
Teluk Ulu Watu (Ulu Watu Bay) is a great and boots at low tide. The nearest accommo-
set-up for surfers – local boys will wax your dation is about 12km away in Pelangan, so
board, get drinks for you and carry the many surfers either camp next to the shore-
board down into the cave, which is the usual line, or cruise in on surf safaris from Bali.
access to the waves. There are warung and
there’s accommodation for every budget. Gerupak

Ulu Watu has about seven different breaks. This giant bay 6km east of Kuta boasts four
The Corner is straight in front of you to the surf breaks, so there’s always some wave
right. It’s a fast-breaking, hollow left that action no matter what the weather or tide.
holds about 6ft. The reef shelf under this Bumbang is extremely dependable: best
break is extremely shallow, so try to avoid on an incoming tide, this right-hander over
falling head first. At high tide, the Peak starts a flat reef is good for all levels and can be
to work. This is good from 5ft to 8ft, with surfed year-round. Gili Golong excels at
bigger waves occasionally right on the Peak mid- to high-tide between October and
itself. You can take off from this inside part or April. Don-Don needs a bigger swell to
further down the line. It’s a great wave. break but can be great at any time of year.
Finally Kid’s Point (or Pelawangan) only
Another left runs off the cliff that forms breaks with big swells, but when it does it’s
the southern flank of the bay. It breaks out- barrels all the way. You need to hitch a boat
side this in bigger swells, and once it’s 7ft, ride (around 70,000Rp) to each wave.
a left-hander pitches right out in front of a
temple on the southern extremity. Out be- Gili Trawangan
hind the Peak, when it’s big, is a bombora
(submerged reef) appropriately called the Much better known as a diving mecca,
Bommie. This is another big left-hander Trawangan also boasts a little-known surf
and it doesn’t start operating until the swell spot off the island’s southwestern tip, off-
is about 10ft. On a normal 5ft to 8ft day, shore from the Vila Ombak hotel. It’s a quick
there are also breaks south of the Peak. right-hander that breaks in two sections,
one offering a steeper profile, over rounded
Observe where other surfers paddle out coral. It can be surfed all year long but is
and follow them. If you are in doubt, ask best at high tide.
someone. It is better having some knowl-
edge than none at all. Climb down into the Mawi
cave and paddle out from there. When the
swell is bigger you will be swept to your About 18km west of Kuta, the stunning bay
right. Don’t panic – it is an easy matter to of Mawi has a fine barrelling left with a late
paddle around the white water from down take-off and a final tube. It’s best in the dry
along the cliff. Coming back in you have to season from May to October with easterly off-
aim for the cave. When the swell is bigger, shore winds and a southwest swell. As there
come from the southern side of the cave as are sharp rocks and coral underwater, and
the current runs to the north. the riptide is very fierce, take great care. Un-
fortunately, thefts have been reported from
Where to Surf: Lombok the beach, so leave nothing of value behind
and tip the locals to look after your vehicle.
Lombok has some good surfing and the
dearth of tourists means that breaks are un- Equipment: Pack or
crowded. Rent?

Desert Point A small board is usually adequate for the
smaller breaks, but a few extra inches on your
Located in an extremely remote part of
Lombok, Desert Point is a legendary if elu-

33

usual board length won’t go astray. For the definitely worthwhile bringing your own PLAN YOUR TRIP BALI & LOMBOK OUTDOORS
bigger waves – 8ft and upwards – you’ll need and checking out some of the less-visited
a ‘gun.’ For a surfer of average height and parts of the coasts. The Gilis now have a
build, a board around the 7ft mark is perfect. professional freediving school (p292) if you
want to take snorkelling to the next level.
If you try to bring more than two or They also have Gili Islands Dive Association
three boards into the country, you may have (GIDA), which sets professional and environ-
problems with customs officials, who might mental standards.
think you’re going to try and sell them.
Equipment: Pack or
There are surf shops in Kuta and else- Rent?
where in south Bali. You can rent boards of
varying quality (from 30,000Rp to 50,000Rp If you are not picky, you’ll find all the equip-
per day) and get supplies at most popular ment you need in Bali, the Gilis and Lom-
surf breaks. If you need repairs, ask around: bok (the quality, size and age of the equip-
there are lots of places that can help. ment can vary). If you provide your own,
you can usually get a discount on your dive.
Other recommended equipment you Some small, easy-to-carry things to bring
might bring: from home include protective gloves, spare
straps, silicone lubricant and extra globes/
» Solid luggage for airline travel bulbs for your torch/flashlight. Other equip-
ment to consider bringing:
» Board-strap for carrying
» Mask, snorkel & fins Many people bring these
» Tough shoes for walking down rocky cliffs as they are not too big to pack and you can be
sure they will fit you. Snorkelling gear rents from
» Your favourite wax if you’re picky about 30,000Rp per day and is often shabby.

» Wetsuit or reef booties » Tanks & weight belt Usually included with the
cost of a dive.
» Wetsuit vest or other protective cover from the
sun, reefs and rocks » Thin, full-length wetsuit For protection against
stinging animals and possible coral abrasions.
» Surfing helmet for rugged conditions (and Bring your own if you are worried about size. If
riding a motorbike) diving off Nusa Penida, be sure you’ll be able to
use a wetsuit thicker than 3mm, as up-swells
Surf Operators bring up deep water that’s 18°C.

Surf schools operate right off Kuta Beach in » Regulators & BCVs Most dive shops have
Kuta and Legian. decent ones. (BCVs are also known as BCDs or
buoyancy control devices.)
Wave Hunter (p51) Rents stand-up paddle
boards, gives lessons and arranges great-value Dive Operators
transport to and from whatever beaches have
good conditions on a particular day. Major dive operators in tourist areas can ar-
range trips to the main dive sites all around
Surf Goddess (%0858 997 0808; www the islands. Distances can be long though,
.surfgoddessretreats.com) Surf holidays for so it’s better to stay relatively close to your
women that include lessons and lodging in a posh destination.
guesthouse in Seminyak.
For a local trip, count on US$50 to US$90
Diving & per person for two dives, which includes all
Snorkelling equipment. Note that it is becoming com-
mon to price in euros.
With its warm water, extensive coral reefs
and abundant marine life, Bali offers excel- Wherever there is decent local diving
lent diving and snorkelling adventures. Reli- on Bali and Lombok there are dive shops.
able dive schools and operators all around Usually you can count on some reefs in fair
Bali’s coast can train complete beginners or condition reachable by boat. Recommended
arrange challenging trips that will satisfy sites with shops include the following:
the most experienced divers. The Gilis pro-
vide equally excellent opportunities, while » Amed
Lombok is close behind with good sites, es-
pecially around its northwest coast. » Candidasa

Snorkelling gear is available near all the
most accessible spots, but if you’re keen, it’s

PLAN YOUR TRIP BALI & LOMBOK OUTDOORS34 FELIX HUG/GETTY IMAGES ©

» (above) Snorkelling in the clearJOHN BORTHWICK/GETTY IMAGES ©
waters of Gili Meno (p298)

» (left) Horse riding along the beach
(p280)

35

» Lovina way and breathe in. Smelling dry or slightly rubbery PLAN YOUR TRIP BALI & LOMBOK OUTDOORS
air is OK. If it smells of oil or car exhaust, that tells
» Nusa Lembongan you the operator doesn’t filter the air correctly.

» Padangbai » When the equipment is put together, are there
any big air leaks? All dive centres get some small
» Pemuteran leaks at some time; however, if you get a big hiss
of air coming out of any piece of equipment, ask
» Sanur to have it replaced.

» Gili Air » Is it conservation-oriented? Good dive shops
explain that you should not touch corals or take
» Gili Meno shells from the reef, as well as work with local
fishers to ensure that certain areas are protected.
» Gili Trawangan Some even clean beaches.

» Kuta (Lombok) Responsible Diving

» Senggigi Bear in mind the following tips when diving
and help preserve the ecology and beauty of
Choosing a Dive Operator reefs:

In general, diving in Bali and Lombok is » Never use anchors on reefs, and take care not to
safe, with a good standard of staff training run boats aground on coral.
and equipment maintenance. Here are a
few tips to help you select a well set up and » Avoid touching or standing on living marine
safety-conscious dive shop. organisms or dragging equipment across the reef.

» Are its staff fully trained and qualified? Ask » Be careful with your fins. Even without contact,
to see certificates or certification cards – no the surge from fin strokes near the reef can
reputable shop will be offended by this request. damage delicate organisms. Don’t kick up clouds
Guides must reach ‘full instructor’ level to teach. of sand, which can smother organisms.
To guide certified divers on a reef dive, guides
must hold at least ‘rescue diver’ or preferably ‘dive » Practise and maintain proper buoyancy
master’ qualifications. control. Major damage can occur from reef
collisions.
» Do they have safety equipment on the boat?
At a minimum, a dive boat should carry oxygen » Do not collect or buy corals or shells or
and a first-aid kit. A radio or mobile phone is also loot marine archaeological sites (mainly
important. shipwrecks).

» Is the boat’s equipment OK and its air clean? This
is often the hardest thing for a new diver to judge.
As a guide, smell the air: open a tank valve a small

BEST DIVING & SNORKELLING SITES

The following are Bali and Lombok’s most spectacular diving and snorkelling loca-
tions, drawing people from near and far.

LOCATION DETAILS WHO SHOULD GO?
Nusa Penida Serious diving that includes Skilled divers will enjoy the challenges,
schools of manta rays and but novices and snorkellers will be in
Pulau Menjangan 2.5m sunfish over their heads
Spectacular 30m wall off a Divers and snokellers of all skills and
Tulamben small island, good for diving ages
and snorkelling
Gili Islands Sunken WWII freighter; Divers and snorkellers with good swim-
snorkelling and diving from ming skills
Southwest Lombok shore
All types of diving and snor- Divers and snokellers of all skills and
kelling in beautiful waters ages, although some sites may require
advanced skills
Good reefs Divers and snorkellers with good swim-
ming skills

36

» Ensure that you take home all your rubbish and blanket the peaks by mid-morning. No treks
any other litter you may find as well. Plastics are a require camping gear.
serious threat to marine life.

» Do not feed the fish. Where to Hike: Lombok

» Minimise your involvement with marine animals. Gunung Rinjani draws trekkers from

PLAN YOUR TRIP BALI & LOMBOK OUTDOORS Never ride on the backs of turtles. around the world. Besides being Indonesia’s

second tallest volcano, it holds cultural and

Learning to Dive spiritual significance for the various people
of the region. And then there is its stunning
If you’re not a qualified diver and you want beauty: a 6km-wide cobalt blue lake some
to try some scuba diving in Bali, you have 600m below the rim of the vast caldera.
several options, including packages that in-
clude lessons and cheap accommodation in Expert advice is crucial on the mountain
a pretty place. as people die on its slopes every year. You
can organise explorations of Gunung Rinja-
Introductory/orientation courses (US$60 ni at Sembalun Valley, Senaru and Senggigi.
to US$100) are perfect for novices who

want to see if diving is for them, or you can Equipment: Pack or
learn the basics on a three- to four-day lim-
ited course (US$300) – these are popular Rent?
at resorts. A PADI open-water certification, Any gear you’ll need for your hike, you’ll
which is recognised everywhere, costs be- need to provide. Guides may have a few bits
tween US$350 and US$400.
of gear but don’t count on it. Consider bring-

ing depending on the hike:

Hiking & Trekking » Torch
» Warm clothes for higher altitudes

You could wander Bali and Lombok for a » Waterproof clothes as rain can happen at any
year and still not see all the islands have time and most of the mountains are misty at the
to offer, but their small size means that least
you can nibble off a bit at a time, espe-
cially as day hikes and treks are easily » Good hiking sandals, shows or boots – definitely
arranged. Guides can help you surmount items you won’t find locally

volcanoes, while tour companies will take Hiking Tour Operators
you to remote regions and emerald-green

valleys of rice terraces. In terms of what Guides and agencies are available in vari-
to pack, you’ll need good boots for moun- ous areas such as Ubud, Gunung Agung
tain treks and solid hiking sandals for and Tirta Gangga on Bali and the Sembalun
walks. Valley on Lombok. In addition to these, Bali-

Where to Hike: Bali wide agencies include the following:

Bali is very walkable. No matter where Bali Nature Walk (%0817 973 5914; dade
you’re staying, ask for recommendations [email protected]) Walks in isolated areas in the
and set off for discoveries and adventures. Ubud region. Routes are customisable depending
on your desires.

Ubud, the Sideman area and Munduk are Bali Sunrise Trekking & Tours (%0818
obvious choices. 552 669; www.balisunrisetours.com) Leads treks
throughout the central mountains.
Even from busy Kuta or Seminyak, you
can just head to the beach, turn right and

walk north as far as you wish alongside the Safety Guidelines for
amazing surf while civilisation seems to Trekking
evaporate.

Bali does not offer remote wilderness Before embarking on a trekking trip, con-
treks beyond the climbs of the volcanoes and
day trips within Taman Nasional Bali Barat. sider the following points to ensure a safe
For the most part, you’ll make day trips from
the closest village, often leaving before dawn and enjoyable experience:
to avoid the clouds and mist that usually
» Pay any fees and carry any permits required
by local authorities; often these fees will be
rolled into the guide’s fee, meaning that it’s all
negotiable.

37

» Be sure you are healthy and feel comfortable by bike is the quality of the experience – you PLAN YOUR TRIP BALI & LOMBOK OUTDOORS
walking for a sustained period. can be totally immersed in the environment,
hearing the wind rustling in the rice pad-
» Obtain reliable information about dies or the sound of a gamelan practising or
environmental conditions along your intended catching the scent of flowers.
route, eg the weather can get quite wet and cold in
the upper reaches of the volcanoes. Lombok is also good for touring by bicy-
cle. In the populated areas the roads are flat,
» Confirm with your guide that you will only go on and the traffic across the island is less cha-
walks/treks within your realm of experience. otic than on Bali.

» Carry the proper equipment. Depending on the Some people are put off cycling by the
trek and time of year this can mean rain gear or tropical heat, but when you’re riding on level
extra water. Carry a torch; don’t assume the guide ground or downhill, the breeze really mod-
will have one. erates the heat.

Cycling Where to Cycle: Bali

Cyclists are discovering Bali in a big way. It’s really easier to tell you where not to
The back roads of the island more than ride in Bali. Denpasar south through Sanur
make up for the traffic-clogged streets of the in the east, and Kerobokan to Kuta in the
south. The main advantage of touring Bali west suffer from lots of traffic and narrow
roads.

HIKING HIGHLIGHTS

Bali
One of Bali’s great joys is hiking. You can have good experiences across the island,
often starting right outside your hotel. Hikes can last from an hour to a day.

LOCATION DETAILS
Danau Buyan & Danau Tam- Natural mountain lakes, few people
blingan
Gunung Agung Sunrises and isolated temples
Gunung Batukau Misty climbs amid the clouds, with few people
Gunung Batur Hassles but other-worldly scenery
Munduk Lush, spice-scented waterfall-riven landscape
Sidemen Road area Rice terraces, lush hills and lonely temples; comfy lodging for
walkers
Taman Nasional Bali Barat Remote, wild scenery, wildlife
Tirta Gangga Rice terraces, gorgeous views, remote mountain temples
Ubud Beautiful walks from one hour to one day; rice fields and ter-
races, river-valley jungles and ancient monuments

Lombok

Like the island itself, Lombok has walks and hikes that are often remote, challenging
or both.

LOCATION DETAILS
Air Terjun Sindang Gila One of many waterfalls
Gilis Beach-bum circumnavigations
Gunung Rinjani Superb for trekking; climb the 3726m summit then drop down
into a crater with a sacred lake and hot springs
Sembalun Valley Garlic-scented hikes on the slopes of Rinjani

38

CYCLING SUGGESTIONS

You can’t get too lost on an island as small as Bali. The following are areas good for
exploring on two wheels:

PLAN YOUR TRIP BALI & LOMBOK OUTDOORS LOCATION DETAILS
Bukit Peninsula Explore cliffs, coves and beaches along the west and south coasts; beach
Central mountains promenade at Nusa Dua; avoid the area by the airport
Ambitious; explore Danau Bratan, Danau Buyan and Danau Tamblingan;
East Bali downhill to the north coast via Munduk and to the south via small roads
North Bali from Candikuning
Nusa Lembongan Coast road lined with beaches; north of the coast is uncrowded with
Nusa Penida serene rice terraces; Sidemen Road has lodges good for cyclists
Ubud Lovina is a good base for day trips to remote waterfalls and temples; the
West Bali northeast coast has resorts popular with cyclists circumnavigating Bali
Small; easily done in half a day; nice remote beaches
For serious cyclists who bring bikes; nearly traffic-free, with remote
vistas of the sea, sheer cliffs, white beaches and lush jungle
Many tour companies are based here; narrow mountain roads lead to
ancient monuments and jaw-dropping rice-terrace views
Rice fields and dense jungle rides in and around Tabanan, Kerambitan
and Bajera; further west, small roads off the main road lead to mountain
streams, deserted beaches and hidden temples

Where to Cycle: Lombok mountain roads soaking up the lush scenery,

East of Mataram are several attractions village culture and tropical scents. The cost
that would make a good day trip: south
to Banyumulek via Gunung Pengsong and including bicycle, gear and lunch is US$35
then back to Mataram, for example. Some
coastal roads have hills and curves like a to US$70. Transport to/from south Bali and
roller coaster. Try going north from Seng-
gigi to Pemenang along a spectacular, re- Ubud hotels is usually included.
cently improved, paved road, and then (if
you feel energetic) return via the steep The following are companies to consider:
climb over the Pusuk Pass. The Gilis are
good for riding only as a means to get Archipelago Adventure (%0361-808 1769;
around – literally. www.archipelago-adventure.com) Offers a range
of tours, including ones on Java. In Bali, there
Equipment: Pack or are rides around Jatiluwih and Danau Buyan, and
Rent? mountain biking on trails from Kintamani.

Serious cyclists will want to pack personal Bali Bike-Baik Tours (%0813 3867 3852,
gear they consider essential. For top-end 0361-978 052; www.balibike.com) Tours run
gear, there’s Planet Bike Bali (%0361-746 downhill from Kintamani. The emphasis is on
2858; Jl Gunung Agung 148, Denpasar). It stocks cultural immersion and there are frequent stops in
Giant, Trek, Shimano and other brands. tiny villages and at rice farms.
Otherwise casual riders can rent bikes and
helmets. Bali Eco Cycling (%0361-975 557; www
.baliecocycling.com) Tours start at Kintamani and
Cycling Tour Operators take small roads through lush scenery south to
Ubud; other options focus on rural culture.
Popular tours start high up in the central
mountains at places such as Kintamani or Banyan Tree Cycling Tours (p148) Enjoy
Bedugul. The tour company takes you to the day-long tours of remote villages in the hills above
top and then you ride down relatively quiet Ubud. It’s locally owned by Bagi; the tours (from
450,000Rp) emphasise interaction with villagers.
Very popular.

C.Bali (%0813 5342 0541; www.c-bali.com)
Offers excellent bike tours in and around Gunung
Batur.

39

Rafting Muncan in east Bali is also popular. It’s more PLAN YOUR TRIP BALI & LOMBOK OUTDOORS
rugged than the Ayung and the scenery is
Rafting is popular, usually as a day trip from more wild.
either south Bali or Ubud. Operators pick
you up, take you to the put-in point, provide Advertised prices run from US$55 to
all the equipment and guides, and return US$80; discounts are common. Consider
you to your hotel at the end of the day. The the following:
best time is during the wet season (Novem-
ber to March), or just after; by the middle Bali Adventure Tours (%0361-721 480;
of the dry season (April to September), the www.baliadventuretours.com; rafting trips adult/
best river rapids may be better described as child from $79/52) Sungai Ayung; also has kayak
‘dribbles.’ trips.

Some operators use the Sungai Ayung Mega Rafting (%0361-246 724; www.mega
(Ayung River), near Ubud, where there are raftingbali.com) Sungai Ayung.
between 19 and 25 Class II to III rapids (ie
potentially exciting but not perilous). The Sobek (%0361-768 050; www.balisobek
Sungai Telagawaja (Telagawaja River) near .com) Trips on both the Sungai Ayung and Sungai
Telagawaja.

40

Travel with
Children

Beaches Travelling anywhere with anak-anak (chil-
dren) requires energy and organisation, but
Surf schools at Kuta Beach or flying kites at in Bali these problems are lessened by the
Sanur Beach – for kids of all ages. Balinese affection for children. They believe
that children come straight from God, and
Water the younger they are, the closer they are to
God. To the Balinese, children are consid-
Play in the ocean at Nusa Lembongan, ered part of the community, and everyone,
or dive or snorkel at Pulau Menjangan or not just the parents, has a responsibility
in the Gilis. For something different, walk towards them. If a child cries, the Balinese
across rice fields – who could resist the get most upset and insist on finding a parent
promise of muddy water filled with ducks, and handing the child over with a reproach-
frogs and other fun critters? ful look. Sometimes they despair of uncar-
ing Western parents, and the child will be
Frolicking whisked off to a place where it can be cud-
dled, cosseted and fed. In tourist areas this is
Kids can make like monkeys at Bali Treetop less likely, but it’s still common in traditional
Adventure Park in Candikuning, hit the environments.
aquatic playground of Waterbom Park just
south of Kuta, splash about on a river raft- Bali & Lombok for Kids
ing trip or pedal along on a bike tour.
Children are a social asset when you travel
Animals in Bali, and people will display great inter-
est in any Western child they meet. You
It’s a jungle out there: Ubud’s Sacred Mon- will have to learn your child’s age and sex
key Forest Sanctuary; the Bali Bird Park in Bahasa Indonesia – bulau (month), ta-
and Rimba Reptile Park south of Ubud; the hun (year), laki-laki (boy) and perempuan
Elephant Safari Park north of Ubud; and the (girl). You should also make polite enquiries
Bali Safari & Marine Park, in East Bali. about the other person’s children, present or
absent.
Cool Old Things
Lombok is generally quieter than Bali
Kids will love the Indiana Jones–like pools and the traffic is less dangerous. People are
at Tirta Empul, the ancient water palace fond of kids, but less demonstrative about
and park at Tirta Gangga northeast of
Ubud, and Pura Luhur Ulu Watu, a beautiful
temple with monkeys.

41

STAYING SAFE PLAN YOUR TRIP TRAVEL WITH CHILDREN

The main danger to kids – and adults for that matter – is traffic and bad pavement
and footpaths in busy areas.

The sorts of facilities, safeguards and services that Western parents regard as basic
may not be present. Not many restaurants provide highchairs, places with great views
might have nothing to stop your kids falling over the edge, and shops often have break-
able things down low. Given the ongoing rabies crisis in Bali, be sure to keep children
away from stray dogs.

them than the Balinese. The main difference for extra beds, although many offer family
on Lombok is that services for children are rooms.
much less developed.
Large international resorts often offer
The obvious drawcards for kids are the special programs or supervised activities for
loads of outdoor adventures available. But kids; where this isn’t the case, most hotels
there are also many cultural treats that kids can arrange a babysitter.
will love.
Hotel staff are usually very willing to help
» Dance A guaranteed snooze right? Wrong. and improvise, so always ask if you need
Check out an evening Barong dance at the Ubud something for your children.
Palace or Pura Dalem Ubud, two venues that
look like sets from Tomb Raider right down to What to Pack
the flaming torches. Sure, the Legong style of
Balinese might be tough going for fidgety types, Huge supermarkets and stores in south
but the Barong has monkeys, monsters, a witch Bali such as Carrefour stock almost every-
and more. thing you’d find at similar stores at home,
including many Western foods; nappies,
» Markets If young explorers are going to temples, Western baby food, packaged UHT milk,
they will need sarongs. Give them 100,000Rp at a infant formula and other supplies are eas-
traditional market and let ’em loose. Vendors will ily purchased. Suggested items to bring by
be truly charmed as the kids try to bargain and age:
assemble the most colourful combo (and nothing
is too loud for a Balinese temple). Babies & Toddlers

» Temples Pick the fun ones. Goa Gajah (Elephant » A front or back sling or other baby carrier: Bali’s
Cave) in Bedulu has a deep cavern where hermits barely walkable streets and paths are not suited to
lived and you enter through the mouth of a prams and pushchairs.
monster. Pura Luhur Batukau is in dense jungle in
the Gunung Batukau area with a cool lake and a » A portable changing mat, hand-wash gel et al
rushing stream. (baby changing facilities are a rarity).

Planning » Kids’ car seats: cars, whether rented or
chartered with a driver, are unlikely to come with
The critical decision is deciding where to these.
base yourselves for the holiday.
Six to 12 Years
Where to Stay
» Binoculars for young explorers to zoom in on
A hotel with a swimming pool, air-con and a wildlife, rice terraces, temples, dancers and so on.
beachfront location is fun for kids and very
convenient, and still provides a good break » A camera or phone that shoots video to inject
for parents. Fortunately there are plenty of newfound fun into ‘boring’ grown-up sights and
choices. walks.

Many hotels and guesthouses, at what- Teens
ever price level, have a ‘family plan’, which
means that children up to about 12 years old » Wi-fi device or mobile (check rates) so young
can share a room with their parents free of travellers can tell those at home about everything
charge. The catch is that hotels may charge they’re missing.

42

BEST REGIONS FOR KIDS

Although Bali and Lombok are generally quite kid-friendly, some areas are more
accommodating than others.

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRAVEL WITH CHILDREN LOCATION PROS CONS
Gili Air
Legian Small island so kids won’t get lost, gentle Can feel cramped and still maybe
Lovina surf, many tourist amenities and activi- too close to Gili T debauchery
Nusa Dua ties such as snorkelling
Sanur
Seminyak Much the same as Kuta with beachfront Much the same as Kuta without
Senggigi resorts on the sand the busy beach road (but there’s
Tanjung Benoa traffic elsewhere); strong surf
Ubud
Kuta Modest, quiet hotels near the beach, Far from the rest of Bali, boring
limited traffic, reef-protected beach with for teens and adults, limited diver-
gentle waves sions

Huge beachside resorts, reef-protected Can be dull for teens and adults;
beach with gentle waves, modest traffic, insulated from the rest of Bali
quiet

Beachside resorts, reef-protected beach Can be dull, especially for teens
with gentle waves, close to many kid- and adults
friendly activities, modest traffic

Appealing mix for all ages; large hotels Traffic, strong surf
on beach

Modest, quiet hotels on the beach; Somewhat isolated, boring for
limited traffic; reef-protected beach with teens and adults, Lombok offers
gentle waves limited kid-specific diversions

Beachside resorts, reef-protected beach Far from the rest of Bali, boring for
with gentle waves, close to many kid- teens and adults
friendly activities

Quiet in parts; many things to see and do; No beach, evenings may require
walks, markets and shops greater creativity to keep kids
amused, adults like it

Teens will love it; kids will be able to buy Teens will love it too much; busy
all manner of cheap souvenirs and fake road between beach and hotels;
tattoos and get their hair braided; surf crowded, crazy, strong surf
lessons

» Cool shades and other gear to effect the right What to Eat
look from the minute the plane lands.
For older babies, bananas, eggs, peelable
Eating with Kids fruit and bubur (rice cooked to a mush in
chicken stock) are all generally available.
Eating out as a family is one of the joys of
visiting Bali and Lombok. Kids are treated Obviously, if your children don’t like spicy
like deities by doting staff who will clamour food, show caution in offering them the local
to grab yours (especially young babies) while cuisine. Many warung (food stalls) will serve
mum and dad enjoy some quiet time together. food without sauces upon request, such as
plain white rice, fried tempeh or tofu, chick-
Bali especially is so relaxed that kids can en, boiled vegetables and boiled egg.
just be kids. There are plenty of top-end
eateries in Seminyak and elsewhere where Otherwise, kid-pleasers like burgers,
kids romp nearby while their parents enjoy chicken fingers, pizza and pasta are wide-
a fine meal. spread as are fast-food chains in south Bali.

43

regions Kuta & South
at a Seminyak Bali & the
glance Islands
Beaches 
Kuta and Seminyak are the Nightlife  Beaches 
main towns in the most Shopping  Surfing 
touristed part of Bali, the part Diving 
of the south that follows the
magnificent stretch of sand Beaches Beaches
from the airport northwest Kuta’s famous Beaches can be
to Echo Beach. The Bukit sweep of wave- found right around
Peninsula combines remote pounded sand ex- south Bali: little
surf breaks with vast resorts. tends for 12km past coves of white sand
Ubud occupies the heart of Bali Legian, Seminyak, such as Balangan
in many respects and shares Kerobokan and are idyllic, while
some of the island’s most Canggu, before fi- those in Nusa Dua,
beautiful rice fields with east nally ending up on Tanjung Benoa and
Bali. The latter has no major the rocks near Echo Sanur are family
centre but does have popular Beach. At Kuta friendly. The beach-
areas such as Padangbai and there are beach es out on Nusa
the Amed Coast. bars (chairs in the Lembongan offer a
sand) and vendors; funky escape.
Bali’s centre is dominated by these dwindle as
dramatic volcanoes. North and you go northwest. Surfing
west Bali are thinly populated You can’t say
but have fine diving. Nightlife enough about the
Restaurants and surf breaks on the
Lombok is largely cafes in Seminyak west coast of the
mountainous, volcanic and and Kerobokan are Bukit Peninsula;
rural, while the Gili Islands are some of the best the multitude of
tiny coral islands fringed with on Bali. Some have breaks around Ulu
white sand. gorgeous sunset Watu are world-
views, while the renowned. Surfer
bars and clubs have guesthouses let
a vaguely sophisti- you stay near the
cated air. Nightlife action.
becomes manic in
Kuta, where the Diving
party goes all night. The best diving
is at the islands.
Shopping Nusa Lembongan
Shopping in has coral and man-
Seminyak is reason groves; Nusa Pe-
enough to visit nida has challeng-
Bali; the choice is ing conditions and
extraordinary. deep-water cliffs.

p48 p94

44

PLAN YOUR TRIP REGIONS AT A GLANCE Ubud & East Bali Central North Bali
Around Mountains
Beaches  Resorts 
Culture  History  Hikes  Beaches 
Indulgence  Hikes  Culture  Diving 
Walks  Solitude 

Culture Beaches Hikes Resorts
Ubud is the nexus Beaches are found The centre of the The crescent of
of Balinese culture. along much of the island is all about beach hotels at
Each night there are east Bali coast. hiking. The alien Pemuteran is the
a dozen perform- The coast road landscape of Gu- real star of north
ances of traditional has wave-tossed nung Batur, an ac- Bali. Beautifully
Balinese dance, beaches tive volcano, thrills built, the hotels
music, puppets and of dark volcanic many. Around form a fine human-
more. Also here sand, many with Munduk there scaled resort area,
are talented artists, important temples. are misty walks and they’re close to
including superb Pasir Putih always through spice plan- Pulau Menjangan.
woodcarvers who charms, as do the tations and jungle Lovina is good for
make the masks for small beach coves to waterfalls. those looking for
the shows. of Amed. a low-cost, quiet
Culture getaway.
Indulgence History Pura Luhur Batu-
Spas, traditional Taman Kertha Gosa kau never fails to Beaches
medicine sessions has the moving touch the spirit of There’s a lot of
and yoga classes remains of a pal- those who find this tan and grey sand
are just some of ace lost when the important temple along Bali’s north
the ways you can royalty committed on the slopes of Gu- coast. Much of the
indulge yourself in ritual suicide rather nung Batukau. The coast is protected
Ubud. International than surrender to perfectly realised by reefs and the
practitioners join the Dutch in 1908. rice fields of Jatilu- waves are small.
local healers to wih embody the
offer services for Hikes deep significance Diving
mind and body. Some of Bali’s most rice has to the Bal- The real draw
alluring rice fields inese psyche. underwater is the
Walks and landscapes night diving around
Rice fields surround are found in the Solitude Lovina. Dive shops
Ubud and they are east. You’re spoiled Cooler than the rest run well-managed
some of Bali’s most for choice along of Bali, the moun- trips, on which
picturesque. You Sidemen Road, or tains feel lonely. A you’re likely to see
can walk for an try Tirta Gangga, solitary visit to Pura huge amounts of
hour or an entire which excels at Luhur Batukau marine life not vis-
day, enjoying river remote temple can be followed by ible by day.
valleys, villages and walks. Gunung retreats to nearby
enveloping natural Agung awaits the remote lodges. p230
beauty. ambitious.
p215
p137 p179

45

West Bali Lombok Gili Islands PLAN YOUR TRIP REGIONS AT A GLANCE

Diving  Hiking  Diving 
Surfing  Coastline  Adventure 
Beaches  Tropical Chic  Chilling 

Diving Hiking Diving
Pulau Menjangan A majestic volcano, Forming one of
lives up to its many Gunung Rinjani’s Indonesia’s most
superlatives. A 30m very presence species-rich envi-
coral wall close to overshadows all ronments, the Gilis’
shore delights both of northern Lom- coral reefs teem
divers and snorkel- bok. Hiking trails with fascinating sea
lers with a cast of sneak up Rinjani’s life. The islands are
fish and creatures astonishing caldera, perfect for divers
that varies from where you’ll find a (including free
sardines to whales. shimmering crater divers) and snor-
The island is part of lake, hot springs kellers, and you’re
a national park and and a smoking almost guaranteed
is undeveloped. minicone. to see turtles.

Surfing Coastline Adventure
Breaks at Balian Lombok’s south- They may be minis-
Beach and Medewi ern coastline is cule, but the Gilis
have a following, nature in the raw. are loaded with
and at the former There’s nothing intriguing possibili-
a small surfer com- genteel about ties. Try kayaking,
munity has sprung the magnificent ride a horse, learn
up with idiosyn- shoreline, which is to free dive or surf.
cratic guesthouses pounded by oceanic
and a stylish hotel. waves that make Chilling
it a surfer’s mecca. We’ve all dreamed
Beaches Empty beaches of finding the ulti-
Balian Beach is the allow exceptional mate beach: a vi-
main strand in the swimming. sion of palms trees,
west and makes a blinding white
good place to hang Tropical Chic sands and a tur-
even if you’re not Lombok excels at quoise sea, perhaps
surfing. the tropical-chic with a seashell or
thing. For total im- two and a bamboo
p245 mersion, the Sire shack selling cool
area offers uberlux- drinks and fresh
ury. Delve into Seng- fish. Find yours
gigi’s hip hotels and here.
sleek restaurants.
p286
p258

Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their
favourite places are listed first

Look out for these icons: A green or No payment
Our author’s top sustainable option required
recommendation

KUTA & SEMINYAK . . 48 AROUND UBUD . . . . . . . . . 170
Bedulu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
Kuta & Legian . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Pejeng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
Bali’s Best Beaches . . . . . . . 57 Tampaksiring. . . . . . . . . . . . 173
Seminyak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Tegallalang . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
Kerobokan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85 North of Ubud. . . . . . . . . . . 174
North of Kerobokan . . . . . . .89 South of Ubud . . . . . . . . . . 174

SOUTH BALI & THE EAST BALI . . . . . . . . . 179
ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . . . 94
Coast Road to
BUKIT PENINSULA. . . . . . . . 96 Kusamba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
Jimbaran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96 Gianyar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
Around Jimbaran . . . . . . . . .98 Sidan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .184
Central Bukit. . . . . . . . . . . . .99 Bangli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .184
Balangan Beach . . . . . . . . . .99 Semarapura
Pecatu Indah. . . . . . . . . . . . 101 (Klungkung) . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
Bingin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Around Semarapura . . . . . 187
Impossibles Beach. . . . . . . 102 Sidemen Road . . . . . . . . . . 188
Padang Padang . . . . . . . . . 102 Pura Besakih. . . . . . . . . . . .190
Ulu Watu & Around . . . . . . 103 Gunung Agung . . . . . . . . . . 191
Ungasan & Around. . . . . . .104 Rendang to
Nusa Dua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105 Amlapura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
Tanjung Benoa . . . . . . . . . . 107 Kusamba to
Padangbai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
SANUR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Padangbai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
Padangbai to
AROUND SANUR . . . . . . . . .118 Candidasa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
Pulau Serangan . . . . . . . . . 118 Candidasa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
Benoa Harbour . . . . . . . . . . 118 Candidasa to
Amlapura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
DENPASAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118 Amlapura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
Around Amlapura . . . . . . . 204
NUSA LEMBONGAN & Tirta Gangga . . . . . . . . . . . 204
ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Around Tirta
Nusa Lembongan . . . . . . . . 127 Gangga. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
Nusa Ceningan . . . . . . . . . . 133 Amed & the Far
Nusa Penida . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 East Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206

UBUD & AROUND . . . 137

UBUD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

Kubu Region . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 Sangeh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248 East of Kuta. . . . . . . . . . . . .283
Tulamben . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 Tabanan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248 West of Kuta . . . . . . . . . . . .283
Tulamben to Yeh South of Tabanan . . . . . . . .249 EAST LOMBOK . . . . . . . . . . 285
Sanih . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 North of Tabanan . . . . . . . .249 Labuhan Lombok . . . . . . . .285
Antosari & Bajera. . . . . . . .249 South of Labuhan Lombok
CENTRAL Balian Beach . . . . . . . . . . . 250 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .285
MOUNTAINS . . . . . . . 215 Jembrana Coast . . . . . . . . 250
Negara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251 GILI ISLANDS . . . . . .286
GUNUNG BATUR Around Negara . . . . . . . . . .252
AREA. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 Belimbingsari & Gili Trawangan. . . . . . . . . . 288
Gunung Batur . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Palasari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .252 Gili Meno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .297
Around Gunung Cekik. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .252 Gili Air. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .301
Batur Crater . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 Gilimanuk . . . . . . . . . . . . . .253
Around Danau Batur . . . . 220 Taman Nasional
DANAU BRATAN AREA. . . . 222 Bali Barat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .254
Bedugul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222 Labuhan Lalang . . . . . . . . .257
Candikuning . . . . . . . . . . . .223
Pancasari. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .225 LOMBOK . . . . . . . . . .258
Danau Buyan & Danau
Tamblingan . . . . . . . . . . . . .225 WEST LOMBOK. . . . . . . . . . 259
Munduk & Around . . . . . . .225 Mataram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .259
GUNUNG BATUKAU Around Mataram . . . . . . . 264
AREA. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Lembar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264
THE ANTOSARI Southwestern
ROAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264
Senggigi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .267
NORTH BALI . . . . . . .230
NORTH & CENTRAL
Yeh Sanih . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .232 LOMBOK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272
Singaraja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .232 Bangsal to Bayan . . . . . . . .272
Around Singaraja . . . . . . . .234 Senaru & Batu Koq . . . . . .273
Lovina. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .235 Sembalun Valley . . . . . . . . . 274
West of Lovina . . . . . . . . . . 241 Gunung Rinjani . . . . . . . . . .275
Pemuteran. . . . . . . . . . . . . .242 Tetebatu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277

WEST BALI. . . . . . . . .245 SOUTH LOMBOK . . . . . . . . 278
Praya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .278
Pura Tanah Lot . . . . . . . . . .247 Around Praya . . . . . . . . . . .279
Kapal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247 Kuta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .279
Marga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247

Kuta & Seminyak

Kuta & Legian. . . . . . . 50 Why Go?
Seminyak . . . . . . . . . . . 74
Kerobokan. . . . . . . . . . .85 Crowded and frenetic, the swath of south Bali hugging the
North of Kerobokan . .89 amazing wide ribbon of beach that begins in Kuta is the
place many travellers begin and end their visit to the island.
Best Places to Eat Not a bad choice.

» Sardine (p86) In Seminyak and Kerobokan there is a bounty of restau-
» Biku (p86) rants, cafes, designer boutiques, spas and the like that rivals
» Warung Sulawesi (p87) anywhere in the world, while Kuta and Legian are still the
» Mama San (p80) choice for rollicking all-night clubbing, cheap singlets and
hair-plaiting and carefree family holidays.
Best Places to
Stay Renowned shopping, all-night clubs, fabulous dining,
cheap beer, sunsets that dazzle and relentless hustle and
» Hotel Tugu Bali (p89) bustle are all part of the experience. But just when you
» Oberoi (p78) wonder what any of this has to do with Bali – the island
» Un’s Hotel (p55) supposedly all about spirituality and serenity – a religious
» Samaya (p78) procession appears and shuts everything down. And then
you know the answer.

When to Go

Bali’s ever-increasing popularity means that the best time to
visit Kuta, Seminyak and their neighbours is outside of the
high season, which is July, August and the weeks around
Christmas and New Year. Holidays elsewhere mean that
visitor numbers spike and it can require actual effort to or-
ganise tables in the best restaurants, navigate trendy shops
and get a room with a view. Many prefer April to June and
September, when the weather is drier and slightly cooler,
and the crowds manageable.