Bali & Lombok Travel Guide

Jl Raya Kerobokan 49

Echo Ù#
Beach

Batu Nelayan
Bolong
#Ù#6 Beach
Ù# CANGGU
SEMER
Beach Prancak Ù# KUWUM

Beach

Berewa Ù# Kerobokan UMALA KUTA & SEMINYAK
Beach KANGIN

#5 PeJtIitenget JI Gunung Tangkub an Perahu

Batubelig Ù# Jl Drupadi
Beach

Ù# Jl Pantai Kaya Aya Mati
Kerobokan

Beach

Seminyak Jl Sunset Sungai
PEMECUTAN
#3 #4

SEMINYAK
Seminyak

Beach Ù#

Jl Double Six Jl Raya Seminyak
(Jl Arjuna)

Legian #7

Teluk Kuta

LEGIAN Jl Imam Bonjol
Jl Melasti Sungai Badung

l MajapahitJ
Jl Legian
Jl Pantai Kuta
Kuta Beach #1 Kuta #2

KUTA
Jl Pantai Kuta

TUBAN JI Ngurah Rai
JI RayaKuta
Tuban Ù# l Dewi Sartika
Beach

e# 0 2 km Jl K ed i ri Bypass
0 1 mile JTIuRbaayna
Ngurah Rai J
International

Airport
–#

Kuta & Seminyak Highlights

1 Lolling away your day 3 Ignoring your resolve 6 Losing the crowds at Batu
on Kuta Beach (p50), Bali’s shopping in the myriad Bolong Beach (p92), a mellow
original tourist magnet boutiques of Seminyak (p83) swath of sand near Canggu

2 Raving through the night 4 Letting your tension melt 7 Soaking in the sunset
in the teaming, manic clubs away at a spa in Seminyak while sipping a cheap beer
and legendary nightlife swirl of (p75) from a beach vendor in Legian
Kuta (p69) (p50)
5 Savouring a meal at
one of the growing number
of fabulous restaurants in
Kerobokan (p86)

50

KUTA & SEMINYAK KS IUGTHAT&S L EG I A N Kuta & Legian out even getting wet. A pleasant walkway
runs south from where Jl Pantai Kuta meets
%0361 the beach. Stretching almost to the airport,
it has fine views of the ocean and the efforts
Loud, frenetic and brash are just some of the to preserve some of Tuban’s nearly vanished
adjectives commonly used to describe Kuta beach.
and Legian, the centre of mass tourism in
Bali. Only a couple of decades ago, local ho- Wanderers, browsers and gawkers will
tels tacked their signs up to palm trees. Amid find much to fascinate, delight and irri-
the wall-to-wall cacophony today, such an tate amid the streets, alleys and constant
image seems as foreign as the thought that hubbub. You can even discover the odd
the area was once rice fields. Worse, parts are non-touristy site, such as an old Chinese
just plain ugly, like the unsightly strips that Temple (Map p52).
wend their way inland from the beach.
Memorial Wall MONUMENT
Although this is often the first place many
visitors hit in Bali, the region is not for (Map p52;Jl Legian; h24hr) Reflecting the inter-
everyone. Kuta has narrow lanes jammed
with cheap cafes, surf shops, incessant mo- national scope of the 2002 bombings is the
torbikes and an uncountable number of T-
shirt vendors. However, newly opened flashy memorial wall (p316), where people from
shopping malls and chain hotels suggest a
more mainstream future. many countries pay their respects. Listing

Kuta has Bali’s most raucous clubs, and you the names of the 202 known victims, includ-
can still find a simple room for US$15 in doz-
ens of hotels. Legian appeals to a slightly older ing 88 Australians and 35 Indonesians, it is
crowd (wags say it’s where fans of Kuta go af-
ter they’re married). It is equally commercial starting to look just a touch faded. Across
and has a long row of family-friendly hotels
close to the beach. Tuban differs little in feel the street, a parking lot is all that is left of
from Kuta and Legian, but does have a higher
percentage of visitors on package holidays. the Sari Club site (Map p52).

As for the waves, they break on the beach 2 Activities
that put Kuta on the map. The strand of
sand stretching for kilometres from Tuban From Kuta you can easily go surfing, sailing,
north to Kuta, Legian and beyond to Semin- diving, fishing or rafting anywhere in the
yak and Echo Beach is always a scene of southern part of Bali and still be back for
surfing, playing, massaging, chilling, imbib- the start of happy hour at sunset.
ing and more.
Many of your activities in Kuta centre on
Navigating the region will drive you to a the superb beach. Hawkers will sell you so-
cold one even earlier than you had planned. das and beer, snacks and other treats, and
Busy Jl Legian runs roughly parallel to the you can hire lounge chairs and umbrellas
beach from Kuta north into Seminyak. (negotiable at 10,000Rp to 20,000Rp) or
just crash on the sand. You’ll see everyone
1 Sights from bronzed international youths strut-
ting their stuff, to local families trying to
The real sight here is, of course, the beach. figure out how to get wet and preserve
You can immerse yourself in local life with- their modesty. When the tide is out, the
beach seems to stretch forever and you
LEGIAN’S BEST BEACH could be tempted for a long stroll. Sunsets
are a time of gathering for just about every-
The beach in front of the Sari Beach Inn one in south Bali. When conditions are
(p65) is far from any road, is backed by right, you can enjoy an iridescent magenta
shady trees, is never crowded and has spectacle better than fireworks.
somnolent vendors, and isn’t crossed
by a stream with dubious water. You’ll Except for the traffic, the Kuta area is a
have a huge stretch of sand to yourself pretty good place for kids: they can cavort
and you’ll hear something rarely heard on the beach for hours. Almost all the hotels
further south in Kuta: the surf. and resorts above the surfer-dude category
have pools, and the better ones offer kids’
programs. Amazone (Map p56; Jl Kartika Plaza,
Discovery Shopping Mall; h10am-10pm) has hun-
dreds of screeching arcade games on the top
floor of the mall.

The very popular Double Six Beach (Jl Ar-
juna), at the north end of Legian, is alive with
pick-up games of football and volleyball all
day long. It’s a fine place to meet locals.

51

KUTA COWBOYS UNSADDLED KUTA & SEMINYAK KACUTAI V&I TLI EESG I A N

You see them all around Bali’s southern beaches: young men who are buff, tattooed,
long-haired and gregariously courtly. Long known as ‘Kuta cowboys’, they turn the Asian
cliché of a younger local woman with an older Western man on its ear. For decades
women from Japan, Australia and other nations have found companionship on Bali’s
beaches that meets a need, be it romantic, adventurous or otherwise.

The dynamic between these foreign women and Balinese men is more complex than
a simple exchange of money for sexual services (which is illegal in Bali): although the
Kuta cowboys do not receive money directly for sex, their female companions tend to
pay for their meals, buy gifts, and may even pay other expenses such as rent.

This well-known Bali phenomenon was thrust into the headlines in 2010 with the
release of the lighthearted documentary Cowboys in Paradise (www.cowboysinpara
dise.com). Director Amit Virmani says he got the idea for the film after he talked to a
Balinese boy who said he wanted ‘to sex-service Japanese girls’ when he grew up. The
result looks at the lives of the Kuta cowboys and explores the economics and emotional
costs of having fleeting dalliances with female tourists on a schedule.

After news of the film went viral, local authorities became concerned that spotlight-
ing the island’s romance trade would hurt Bali’s image, and local police arrested 28 men
on Kuta beach on suspicion of selling sex. In addition to these ‘image’ issues, health
authorities warn that HIV is a risk: the HIV rate in Bali is, for example, 84 times that of
Australia.

Surfing Rip Curl School of Surf SURFING
The beach break called Halfway Kuta, off-
shore near the Hotel Istana Rama, is popu- (Map p52; %735 858; www.ripcurlschoolofsurf.com;
lar with novices. More challenging breaks
can be found on the shifting sandbars off Jl Arjana; lessons from 650,000Rp) Usually uni-
Legian, around the end of Jl Padma, and at
Kuta Reef, 1km out to sea off Tuban Beach. versities sell shirts with their logos; here it’s

Shops large and small sell big-brand surf the other way round: the beachwear compa-
gear and boards. Stalls on the side streets hire
out surfboards (for a negotiable 30,000Rp ny sponsors a school. You can learn to surf at
per day) and boogie boards, repair dings and
sell new and used boards. Some can also ar- popular Double Six Beach; there are special
range transport to nearby surfing spots. Used
boards in good shape average US$200. For courses for kids.
more on surfing, see p29.
Naruki Surf Shop SURFING
Surf schools and shops include the
following: (Map p52; %765 772; off Poppies Gang II; h10am-
8pm) One of dozens of surf shops lining the

gang of Kuta, the friendly guys here will rent

you a board, fix your ding, offer advice or

give you lessons.

Water Park

Waterbom Park AMUSEMENT PARK

Wave Hunter SURFING (Map p56; %755 676; www.waterbom.com; Jl Kar-

(Map p52; www.supwavehunter.com; Jl Sunset 18X tika Plaza; adult/child US$31/19; h9am-6pm) Just

at Jl Imam Bonjol; rental per day 250,000Rp) Rents south of Kuta, this watery amusement park

stand-up paddle boards, gives lessons and covers 3.5 hectares of landscaped tropical

arranges great-value transport to and from gardens. It has assorted water slides, swim-

whatever beaches have good conditions on ming pools and play areas, a supervised

a particular day. park for children under five years old, and

a ‘lazy river’ ride. Other indulgences include

Pro Surf School SURFING the ‘pleasure pool’, a food court and bar, and

(Map p52; www.prosurfschool.com; Jl Pantai Kuta; a spa.

lessons from €45) Right along the classic Massages & Spas

stretch of Kuta Beach, this well-regarded Spas have proliferated, especially in hotels,
and offers are numerous. Check out a few
school has been getting beginners standing before choosing.

for years. It has a fun cafe.

È 52
È
444444Kuta & Legian e# 0 500 m
ABCDE KUTA & SEMINYAK AKCU TIAV I&T ILEESG I A N0 0.25 miles
G
F
1
4444441 Kimia
2
49 Pharma
3
57 #ú þ# 60 Legian
ý# Jl Arjuna 4
#ú (Jl Double î# ú# 45
ü# 53 48 62 þ# Jl Nakula
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Jl Pantai Arjuna ÿ# 16 Jl Pura Bagus Taruna 8 Ø# Jl Nakula #ú 41
(Jl Werkudara)

Double Ù# ú# 46
Six Beach ÿ# 26
4444442
Jl Legian Jl Sunset
44444442ú#2ÿ#0 GaTnegwLoeggaiahn 64 Jl Dewi Sri
þ# Sungai Mati
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4 44 4 4ÿ# 4 27 ÿ#
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Jl Padma Utara
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444444 #ú 33
444444 #ú
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44444410 Jl Sahadewa Jl Pura Puseh þ# 68
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Beach Walkway Kuta Sq #ú 37 JI Ngurah Rai Bypass

444 71 69 Tengal Wangi Corner
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444B C D E F G 53

54

KUTA & SEMINYAK KTOUUTAR S& L EG I A N Kuta & Legian 16 Hotel Kumala Pantai ...............................B2
17 Island.........................................................C2
æ Sights 18 Kuta Puri Bungalows...............................C7
1 Chinese Temple .......................................E8 19 Legian Beach Bungalow .........................C3
2 Memorial Wall.......................................... D6 20 Maharta Beach Resort............................B2
3 Site of Sari Club ...................................... D6 21 Mimpi Bungalows....................................D7
22 O-CE-N Bali .............................................. A1
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 23 Poppies Cottages....................................D7
Garbugar.........................................(see 65) 24 Pullman Bali Legian Nirwana.................B4
25 Sari Beach Inn..........................................B3
4 Jamu Spa ................................................. C5 26 Seaside Villas ...........................................B2
Miracle.............................................(see 65) 27 Sri Beach Inn............................................C3
28 Suji Bungalow ..........................................D7
5 Naruki Surf Shop .................................... D6 29 Un's Hotel.................................................C5
6 Pro Surf School....................................... C7
7 Rip Curl School of Surf............................A1 ú Eating
8 Wave Hunter.............................................E2 30 Ajeg Bali....................................................C8
31 Aroma's Cafe ...........................................D5
ÿ Sleeping 32 Balcony .....................................................C5
9 Bali Bungalo............................................. C6 33 Delicioso ...................................................C3
10 Bali Mandira Hotel .................................. B4 34 Feyloon ..................................................... F7
11 Bendesa ................................................... D6 35 Indo-National ...........................................C4
12 Berlian Inn................................................ D7
13 Blue Ocean................................................ A1
14 Gemini Star Hotel ................................... D6
15 Hard Rock Hotel...................................... C7

Jamu Spa SPA booked through your hotel or the plethora
of stands plastered with brochures.
(Map p52; %752 520; www.jamutraditionalspa
.com; Jl Pantai Kuta, Alam Kul Kul; massage from z Festivals & Events

550,000Rp; h9am-9pm) In serene surrounds There are surfing contests throughout the
year.
at a resort hotel, you can enjoy indoor mas-

sage rooms that open onto a pretty garden

courtyard. If you’ve ever wanted to be part Kuta Karnival

of a fruit cocktail, here’s your chance – treat- FESTIVAL

ments involve tropical nuts, coconuts, papa- The first Kuta Karnival was held in 2003 as

yas and more, often in fragrant baths. a way of celebrating life after the tragedy of

Miracle 2002. It’s a big beach party on the big beach

SPA in Kuta consisting of games, art, competi-

(Map p52; %769 019; www.miracle-clinic.com; tions, surfing and much more in October.

Istana Kuta Galeria, Blok PM 1/20; massage from Look for its page on Facebook.

US$30; h8.30am-8pm) Who can resist the 4 Sleeping

name? You won’t feel a bit of your acid peel Kuta, Legian and Tuban have hundreds of
places to stay. The top-end hotels are along
here thanks to the arctic air-con. A huge the beachfront, midrange places are mostly
on the bigger roads between Jl Legian and
array of beauty treatments draws a loyal the beach, and the cheapest joints are gen-
erally along the smaller lanes in between.
crowd that includes many a Kuta doyen Tuban and Legian have mostly midrange
and top-end hotels – the best places to
and expat. find budget accommodation are Kuta and
southern Legian. Almost every hotel in any
Garbugar MASSAGE price range has air-con and a pool. Go super
cheap and you also go green.
(Map p52; %769 121; Istana Kuta Galleria, Blok OG
Note that hotels on Jl Pantai Kuta are
09; massage from 100,000Rp; h10am-8pm) Blind separated from the beach by a busy main
road south of Jl Melasti. North of Jl Melasti
masseurs here are experts in sensing exactly

where your kinks are located. It’s no-frills all

the way but hard to beat for a deeply relax-

ing experience.

T Tours

A vast range of tours all around Bali, from

half-day to three-day excursions, can be

55

36 Kopi Pot.................................................... D6 ý Entertainment KUTA & SEMINYAK SKLUETEAP&I NLGEG I A N
37 Kuta Market..............................................E8 56 Bounty ......................................................D7
38 Kuta Night Market ...................................E8 57 Cocoon...................................................... A1
39 Made's Warung ....................................... D7
40 Mama's..................................................... D5 þ Shopping
41 Mang Engking...........................................F2 58 Animale.....................................................D4
42 Mozarella ................................................. B2 59 Beachwalk ................................................C6
43 Poppies Restaurant................................ D7 60 Busana Agung.......................................... B1
44 Rainbow Cafe .......................................... C6 61 Carrefour ..................................................G5
45 Saleko........................................................C1 62 Desy Shop ................................................ B1
46 Seaside..................................................... B2 63 Djeremi Shop ...........................................C2
47 Take .......................................................... D4 64 Earthy Collection.....................................C2
48 Warung Asia .............................................B1 65 Istana Kuta Galleria................................. F5
49 Warung Murah .........................................B1 66 Kerta Bookshop....................................... E7
50 Warung Yogya......................................... C3 67 Kiki Shop................................................... E7
51 Zanzibar .................................................... A1 68 Makmur Helmet.......................................E4
69 Matahari ...................................................D8
û Drinking 70 Next Generation Board Bags.................C5
52 Apache Reggae Bar................................ D6 71 Rip Curl .....................................................C8
53 De Ja Vu Kitchen...................................... A1 72 Sriwijaya ................................................... C1
54 Sky Garden Lounge ................................ D6 73 Surfer Girl .................................................D7
55 Twice Bar ................................................. D6 Times Bookstore ...........................(see 69)

in Legian, though, part of the beach road ON THE BEACH
is protected by gates that exclude al-
most all vehicle traffic. Hotels here have Hard Rock Hotel RESORT HOTEL $$$
what is in effect a quiet, paved beachfront
promenade. (Map p52; %761 869; www.hardrockhotels.com; Jl

Any place west of Jl Legian won’t be more Pantai Kuta; r from US$300; aiWs) Nothing
than a 10-minute walk to the beach.
is understated about this hotel’s ostentatious

418 rooms, which, despite various themes,

all feel like a retail opportunity. The enor-

TUBAN mous pool is more fantasyland than amen-
There is a string of large hotels along the
sometimes-not-existent Tuban Beach. They ity. The staff are skilful and you need never
are popular with groups.
wait long to buy a T-shirt in the megastore.

It’s on the beach.

CENTRAL KUTA

Discovery Kartika oUn’s Hotel HOTEL $$

Plaza Hotel RESORT HOTEL $$$ (Map p52; %757 409; www.unshotel.com; Jl Bene-

(Map p56; %751 067; www.discoverykartikaplaza. sari; r US$35-80; aWs) A hidden entrance

com; Jl Kartika Plaza; r US$160-300; aiWs) sets the tone for the secluded feel of Un’s.

The 312 spacious rooms in four-storey It’s a two-storey place with bougainvillea

blocks at this large resort front expansive spilling over the pool-facing balconies. The

gardens and a gigantic swimming pool. For 30 spacious rooms in a pair of blocks (the

a real splurge, rent one of the private villas southern one is quieter) feature antiques,

on the water (units two to seven are best). comfy cane loungers and open-air bath-

KUTA rooms. Cheaper rooms are fan-only.
Wandering the gang looking for a cheap
room is a rite of passage for many. Small Poppies Cottages HOTEL $$
and family-run options are still numerous
even as chains crowd in. Some of the hotels (Map p52; %751 059; www.poppiesbali.com; Pop-
along Jl Legian are of the type that assume
men booking a single actually aspire to a pies Gang I; r US$95-120; aiWs) This Kuta
double.
institution has a lush, green setting for its 20

thatch-roofed cottages with outdoor sunken

baths. Bed choices include kings and twins.

The pool is surrounded by stone sculptures

56

Tuban e# 0 400 m
0 0.2 miles

ABCD

See Kuta & 5 ú# ý# 9 iTube ï#JI Raya Kutaò# Su n g ai
Legian Map (p52) 8 ú# M ati
Ø# 3 11
441 #þ
6 1
10 ú# 2
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KUTA & SEMINYAK SKLUETEAP&I NLGEG I A N (JJllKDaertwiikaSaPrltiakzaa) î# Kimia Farma
Tuban

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Tuban Ù# Stop
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7 Office

444 663 wi Sartika Jl Kediri JI Raya Tuban

444A Ngurah Rai Jl Airport Ngurah Rai D
International Airport #Kuta Immigration Office
4464 6Tuban C
#–

B

æ Sights Discovery Mall................................ (see 10)
1 Mads Lange Tomb...................................D1 6 Kafe Batan Waru ..................................... B1
7 Pantai ........................................................B2
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 8 Warung Nikmat........................................ C1
2 Amazone...................................................B1
3 Waterbom Park........................................C1 ý Entertainment
9 DeeJay Cafe ............................................. C1
ÿ Sleeping
4 Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel................B1 þ Shopping
10 Discovery Mall.......................................... B1
ú Eating 11 Joger ......................................................... C1
5 B Couple Bar n' Grill................................. B1 12 Periplus Bookshop .................................. B1

and water fountains in a garden that almost Large rooms close to the beach yet away
makes you forget you are in the heart of Kuta. from irritations are a big part of the ap-
peal of this older, 44-room hotel. It’s well
Kuta Puri Bungalows HOTEL $$ maintained and there are statues of pran-
cing horses to inspire horseplay in the pool.
(Map p52; %751 903; www.kutapuri.com; Poppies Rooms are in two-storey buildings and have
patios/porches; not all have wi-fi.
Gang I; r US$60-130; aWs) The 47 bungalow-

style rooms here are well maintained and

nestled in verdant tropical grounds. The

pool has a shallow kids’ area. Enjoy the Suji Bungalow HOTEL $

splish-splash of a fountain. Some rooms are (Map p52; %765 804; www.sujibglw.com; off Poppies

fan only. Gang I; r US$38-50; aiWs) This cheery place

Bali Bungalo HOTEL $$ offers a choice of 47 bungalows and rooms

(Map p52; %755 109; www.bali-bungalo.com; off in two-storey blocks set in a spacious, quiet

Jl Pantai Kuta; r 500,000-600,000Rp; aWs) garden around a pool (which has a slide into

57

Bali’s Best
Beaches

Beaches »
Surfing »
Diving & Snorkelling »
Marine Life »

View of Gili Meno and its crystal clear waters

KIMBERLEY COOLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

58 MATTHEW MICAH WRIGHT/GETTY IMAGES ©

Beaches

Bali and Lombok are ringed by
beaches, with sand from white to
black and surf from wild to tame.
They draw visitors by the score for
surfing, playing and sunbathing.

Going to the beach is one of the top
reasons people come to the islands. With
such a huge diversity of options, you are
sure to find one – or several – that suit
you. And it’s likely you’ll spend a lot of
your time on the sand. Locals and visitors
alike pause on west-facing beaches at
sunset and the Balinese hold fascinating
purification and other ceremonies at the
shore.

You can enjoy a wild party scene or
revel in utter solitude, the choices are
yours.

KIMBERLEY COOLE/GETTY IMAGES © 59

1. Parasailing, Nusa Dua (p105) 2. Ulu Watu (p103)
3. Beach restaurant, Legian (p66) 4. Sunset beach view,
Legian (p50)
GREG NEWINGTON/GETTY IMAGES ©
DAVID HANNAH/GETTY IMAGES ©

60 JOHN W BANAGAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

1. Iconic Kuta Beach (p50) 2. Surfboards on a Bali beach
3. Cliffs of Ulu Watu (p103)

61

GLOWIMAGES/GETTY IMAGES © Surfing

JOHN SEATON CALLAHAN/GETTY IMAGES © Kuta Beach

1 Kuta Beach, Bali’s original surf beach,
is still a winner. First, the entire place
just exudes surf culture, starting with
the famous surf shops on shore. Second,
you can easily learn to surf here. Schools
abound and there are classes all day long.
Third, the breaks are uber-reliable.

Echo Beach

2 Echo Beach has wild waves and plenty
of spectators. It’s really an extension
of Batu Bolong but where that break
fronts an often-quiet swath of sand, Echo
Beach has a line of cafes that are always
brimming with fans. It’s always a good mix
of locals and visitors here.

Ulu Watu

3 Ulu Watu is where you’ll find Bali’s
most legendary surfing. It’s really
the climax of a string of breaks that
march down the west coast of the Bukit
Peninsula. The conditions are challenging
and you can spend days just sussing out
the scene. The cliffs are lined with classic
surfer cafes.

Nusa Lembongan

4 Nusa Lembongan off Bali is an
excellent place for days of riding.
Breaks are immediately offshore past the
reefs. Better, there are cheap places to stay
with good views of the action so you can
pick your moment to plunge in.

Desert Point

5 Desert Point on Lombok wins plaudits,
and that’s just not from surfers
congratulating themselves for trekking out
to this remote spot. Fickle – its season is a
short one: May to September – this break
is tough for even the most experienced and
a reward for all.

62 MICHAEL AW/GETTY IMAGES ©

Diving 1. Sea fan and feather star, Tulamben (p212)
2. Biorock structure (p289), Gili Trawangan 3. Manta
Tulamben Ray, Nusa Penida (p133)

1 Tulamben seems like a wide spot in
the coast road of east Bali until you
notice all the dive shops. The big attraction
here lies right offshore: an old ship, the
Liberty, sunk during WWII. You can dive
and snorkel the wreck from right offshore
and arrange lessons and excursions with
the scores of operators.

Gili Trawangan

2 Gili Trawangan is a fabulous centre
for diving and snorkelling. World-
class dive shops abound on Gili T. Great
places to explore the depths abound in the
waters around all three Gilis. Freediving
is popular here, you can snorkel right
off the beaches and there are reefs in all
directions.

Nusa Penida

3 Seldom-visited Nusa Penida is
surrounded by what could be an
underwater theme park. Conditions can be
challenging – the services of an excellent
dive shop are essential – but depending on
the time of year you can see enormous (3m
fin-to-fin) mola mola sunfish and whole
schools of manta rays.

Nusa Lembongan

4 Nusa Lembongan is a good base for
exploring dozens of sites here and
at the two neighbouring islands, Nusa
Penida and Nusa Ceningan. With the
guidance of a good operator, you can drift
dive between the latter and Lembongan.
The mangroves are good for hours of
snorkelling and diving.

Pulau Menjangan

5 Pulau Menjangan is Bali’s best-known
dive and snorkel area and has a dozen
superb dive sites. The diving is excellent –
iconic tropical fish, soft corals, great
visibility (usually), caves and a spectacular
drop-off. It’s best visited as part of an
overnight jaunt to Pemuteran, which has
resorts.

63 JENS KUHFS/GETTY IMAGES ©
MATTHEW OLDFIELD UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY©

64 massive threat. In the Gilis, reef sharks are
easily spotted at Shark Point.
Marine Life
Sea turtles are also common although
There is a rich variety of coral, seaweed, greatly endangered. Long considered a
fish and other marine life in the coastal delicacy by the Balinese it is a constant
waters off the islands. Much of it can be struggle by environmentalists to protect
appreciated by snorkellers, but you’re only them from poachers. Still, you can find
likely to see the larger marine animals them, especially on snorkelling and diving
while diving. trips in the Gilis.

Some of the most dramatic sightings Smaller fish and corals can be found
are found seasonally in the waters around at a plethora of spots around the islands.
Nusa Penida: huge, placid sunfish and Everybody’s favourite first stop is Bali’s
manta rays lure divers from around the Menjangan. Fish as large as whale sharks
world. have been reported but what thrills scores
daily are the coloured beauty of an array
Dolphins can be found right around of corals, sponges, lacy sea fans and much
the islands and have been made into an more. Starfish abound and you’ll easily
attraction off Lovina. But you’re just as spot clownfish and other polychromatic
likely to see schools of dolphins if you take characters.
a fast boat between Bali and the Gilis.

Sharks are always dramatic and there
are very occasional reports of large ones
including great whites throughout the
region, although unlike, say, the east coast
of Australia, they are not considered a

Below

Butterflyfish and diver

GEORGETTE DOUWMA/GETTY IMAGES ©

65

the kiddie area). The verandas and terraces a tiny beachfront pocket, the pretension-
are good for relaxing. Not all rooms have wi-fi. free Maharta is vintage but solidly main-
tained. Its real allure is its (admittedly
Berlian Inn HOTEL $ narrow) beach frontage. The 34 rooms,
with patios/balconies, have typical Balinese
(Map p52; %751 501; off Poppies Gang I; r 120,000- wood furnishings, and some come with
250,000Rp; a) A stylish cut above other bathtubs and tile floors (although none
have views). Some beds boast an oddly an-
budget places, the 24 rooms in two-storey gled overhead mirror that invites contor-
tions by narcissists.
buildings here are pleasingly quiet and have KUTA & SEMINYAK SKLUETEAP&I NLGEG I A N

ikat bedspreads and an unusual open-air

bathroom design. Pricier rooms have air-con

and hot water.

Mimpi Bungalows HOTEL $ Sari Beach Inn HOTEL $$

(Map p52; %751 848; [email protected]; (Map p52; %751 635; www.saribeachinn.com; off Jl

r 200,000-500,000Rp; aWs) The cheapest of Padma Utara; r US$70-100; aWs) Follow your

the 10 bungalow-style rooms here are the ears down a long gang to the roar of the

best value (and are fan-only). Private gar- surf at this good-value beachside hotel that

dens boast orchids and shade, and the pool defines mellow. The 21 rooms have patios

is a good size. Mimpi’s owner, Made Supatra, and the best have big soaking tubs. Grassy

is a tireless promoter of Kuta. There are grounds boast many little statues and water

many more choices nearby. features.

Gemini Star Hotel HOTEL $ Seaside Villas VILLA $$$

(Map p52; %750 558; [email protected]; (Map p52; %737 138; www.seasidebali.com; 18
Jl Pantai Arjuna; villas US$140-400; aWs)
Poppies Gang II; r 140,000-300,000Rp; as) Only
Tucked into a popular stretch of sand just
the monosyllabic mutterings of lounging
south of ever-so-happening Double Six
surfers interrupt the peace at this 12-room
Beach, there are three villas set in lush gar-
hotel on a narrow alley. A pair of two-storey
dens. There’s a vague Santa Fe motif to the
blocks shelter the large and sunny pool area.
one- to three-bedroom units and the overall
Cheap rooms have fans and hot water; more
atmosphere is surprisingly intimate given
money adds air-con and fridges.
the location. Pass through a double-door-

Bendesa HOTEL $ way, pass a fountain and parked cars and

(Map p52; %754 366; www.bendesaaccommoda you’re on the beach.

tion.com; off Poppies Gang II; r US$15-45; aWs) Pullman Bali Legian

The 42 rooms here are in a three-storey Nirwana RESORT HOTEL $$$

block overlooking a pleasant-enough pool (Map p52; %762 500; www.accorhotels.com; Jl
Melasti 1; r US$140-300; aiWs) This huge
area. The location manages to be quiet amid

the greater hubbub. The cheapest rooms – resort is composed of 387 condo units.

all clean – have cold water (some with bath- Most units are simply one-room hotel-

tubs) and fan. Not all rooms have wi-fi. standard with rich wood furnishings. The

LEGIAN resort is shaped like a club on a deck of

ON THE BEACH cards and many rooms offer the full Rear

There is a building boom going on along Le- Window peer-at-your-neighbour experi-
gian’s beachfront.
ence. The beach is across the busy street.

Other megaresorts nearby include the new

Bali Mandira Hotel HOTEL $$$ ‘The Stones’.

(Map p52; %751 381; www.balimandira.com; Jl Pan- CENTRAL LEGIAN

tai Kuta; r US$140-250; aWs) Gardens filled Island HOTEL $$

with bird-of-paradise flowers set the tone (Map p52; %762 722; www.theislandhotelbali.

at this 191-room, full-service resort. Cottages com; Gang Abdi; dm US$25, r 550,000-700,000Rp;

have modern interiors, and the bathrooms aiWs) A real find, literally. Hidden in the

are partly open air. A dramatic pool at the attractive maze of tiny lanes west of Jl Le-

peak of a stone ziggurat (which houses a spa) gian, this hotel lies at the confluence of gang

offers sweeping ocean views, as does the cafe. 19, 21 and Abdi. In a rarity for Bali, it has

Maharta Beach Resort HOTEL $$ a very deluxe dorm room with eight beds.

(Map p52; %751 654; www.mahartabeach.com; Jl Regular rooms are stylish and surround a

Padma Utara; r US$90-140; aWs) Tucked into nice pool.

KUTA & SEMINYAK KE AUTTIAN&G L EG I A N66

KUTA: WHERE BALI TOURISM BEGAN

Mads Lange, a Danish copra trader and 19th-century adventurer, set up a successful
trading enterprise near modern-day Kuta in 1839. He mediated profitably between local
rajahs (lords or princes) and the Dutch, who were encroaching from the north. His busi-
ness soured in the 1850s and he died suddenly, just as he was about to return to Den-
mark. It’s thought that his death may have been the result of poisoning by locals jealous
of his wealth. His restored tomb (Map p56; Jl Tuan Langa) is at the site where he used to
live in a quiet, tree-shaded area by the river. Lange bred Dalmatians and today locals
assume that any dog with a hint of black and white has some of this blood.

Beach tourism got its start in Bali when Bob and Louise Koke – a globetrotting cou-
ple from the US – opened a small guesthouse on virtually deserted Kuta Beach in the
1930s. The guests, mostly from Europe and the US, were housed in thatched bungalows
built in an idealised Balinese style. In a prescient move, Bob taught the locals to surf,
something he’d learned in Hawaii.

Kuta really began to change in the late 1960s when it became a stop on the hippie
trail between Australia and Europe. By the early 1970s it had relaxed losmen (small
Balinese hotels) in pretty gardens, friendly places to eat, vendors peddling magic
mushrooms and a delightfully laid-back atmosphere. Enterprising Balinese seized the
opportunity to profit from the tourists and surfers, often in partnership with foreigners
seeking a pretext to stay longer.

Legian, the village to the north, sprang up as an alternative to Kuta in the mid-1970s.
At first it was a totally separate development, but these days you can’t tell where one
ends and the other begins.

Sri Beach Inn GUESTHOUSE $ O-CE-N Bali HOTEL $$$

(Map p52; %755 897; Gang Legian Tewngah; (Map p52; %737 400; www.outrigger.com; Jl Ar-
r 150,000-300,000Rp; aW) Follow a series of juna 88X; r US$160-300; aiWs) This flashy

paths into the heart of old Legian; when you resort affiliated with the Outrigger chain

hear the rustle of palms overhead, you’re looms over a popular stretch of Double Six

close to this homestay with five rooms. More Beach. The 112 rooms scattered about the

money gets you hot water, air-con and a concrete complex range from hotel-simple

fridge. The gardens get lovelier by the year; to apartment-deluxe.

agree to a monthly rate and watch them Blue Ocean HOTEL $

grow. (Map p52; %730 289; offJl PantaiArjuna; r 200,000-

Legian Beach Bungalow HOTEL $ 400,000Rp; as) Almost on the beach, the

(Map p52; %751 087; legianbeachbungalow@ Blue Ocean is a clean and basic place with

yahoo.co.id; Jl Padma; r 150,000-250,000Rp; as) hot water and pleasant outdoor bathrooms.

The entrance here is perfectly suited to the Many of the 24 rooms have kitchens and

neighbourhood: it’s ugly. But inside is a fine, there’s action nearby day and night.

simple budget hotel. The cheapest of the 22 5 Eating

rooms only have cold water but all have air- There’s a profusion of places to eat around
Kuta and Legian. Tourist cafes with their
con; some have bathtubs. The single- and cheap menus of Indonesian standards, sand-
wiches and pizza are ubiquitous. Look close-
two-storey blocks hem in the pool. ly and you’ll find genuine Balinese warung
tucked in amid it all.
DOUBLE SIX BEACH
If you’re looking for the laid-back scene
Hotel Kumala Pantai HOTEL $$ of a classic travellers’ cafe, wander the gang
and look for the crowds. For quick snacks
(Map p52; %755 500; www.kumalapantai.com; Jl and 4am beers, Circle K convenience stores
Werkudara; r 700,000-1,000,000Rp; aiWs) are everywhere and are open 24 hours.

One of the better deals in Legian. The 108 Beware of the big-box restaurants out
on Jl Sunset. Heavily promoted, they suffer
rooms are large, with marble bathrooms fea-

turing separate shower and tub. The three-

storey blocks are set in very lush grounds

across from popular Double Six Beach. Wi-fi

charges can be high.

67

from traffic noise and are aimed squarely at of Ubud’s best eateries is a slicked-up ver-
groups who go where the bus goes. sion of a warung, albeit with excellent and
creative Asian and local fare. There’s also
TUBAN good coffee, baked goods and kid-friendly
The beachfront hotels all have restaurants items such as pasta and chicken fingers.
or cafes, which are often good for nonguests
to enjoy a snack or a sunset drink. Discovery Mall FOOD COURT $

B Couple Bar n’ Grill SEAFOOD $$ (Map p56; Jl Kartika Plaza; a) This mall is home KUTA & SEMINYAK KE AUTTIAN&G L EG I A N

(Map p56; %761 414;Jl Kartika Plaza; meals 60,000- to many places to eat, including a top-floor
200,000Rp; h24hr) A vibrant mix of upscale
food court (meals 15,000Rp to 30,000Rp)

local families and tourists (menus are even with scores of vendors selling cheap, fresh

in Russian) tuck into Jimbaran-style grilled Asian food. You can eat outside on a terrace

seafood at this slick operation. Pool tables overlooking Kuta Beach. Elsewhere the mall

and live music add to the din while flames has several chain cafes and bakeries.

flare in the open kitchens. KUTA
Busy Jl Pantai Kuta boasts one huge beach-
Warung Nikmat INDONESIAN $ side mall with chain restaurants, with more
to come. Beach vendors are pretty much lim-
(Map p56; %764 678; Jl Banjar Sari; meals 15,000- ited to drinks.

25,000Rp; h10am-3pm) This Javanese favour-

ite is known for its array of authentic halal CENTRAL KUTA

dishes, including beef rendang, perkedel

(fried corn cakes), prawn cakes, sop buntut oAjeg Bali BALINESE $

(oxtail soup) and various curries and vegeta- (Map p52; Kuta Beach; meals 15,000Rp; h8am-

ble dishes. Get there before 2pm or you’ll be 3pm) A simple stand right on Kuta Beach

left with the scraps. dishes up some of the freshest local fare

Pantai SEAFOOD $$ you’ll find. Tops is a bowl of spicy garang

(Map p56; %753 196; Jl Wana Segara; meals asem, a tamarind-based soup with free-

50,000-150,000Rp) It’s location, location, lo- range chicken or pork and many traditional

cation here at this dead-simple beachside seasonings. Come early as it’s often sold

bar and grill. The food is purely stock tour- out by 10am. Enter the beach where Jl Pan-

ist (seafood, Indo classics, pasta etc) but tai Kuta turns north and walk south 100m

the setting overlooking the ocean is idyllic. along the beach path.

There’s none of the pretence (or prices) of Poppies Restaurant WESTERN, INDONESIAN $$
(Map p52; %751 059; Poppies Gang I; meals from
the hotel cafes common down here. Follow 90,000Rp) Poppies was one of the first res-
taurants to be established in Kuta (Poppies
the beach path south past the big Ramada
Gang I is even named after it). It is popu-
Bintang Bali resort.
lar for its lush garden setting: there are lit-
Kafe Batan Waru INDONESIAN $$
tle pebbles underfoot and it feels slightly
(Map p56; %766 303; Jl Kartika Plaza; meals

50,000-150,000Rp) The Tuban branch of one

HOTELS TOO FAR

When booking a south Bali hotel room, be careful where you book.
As tourist numbers on Bali have exploded, so have the number of chain hotels. The

boom in building large hotels with room counts in the three figures in the traditional
tourist areas of Kuta and Legian will ultimately change the area’s character in funda-
mental ways, especially as the many family-run, cheap and cheerful small inns are
pushed out.

However, demand for scarce development sites means that large hotels are now also
cropping up in areas far from the beach. Once you get more than a few hundred metres
east of Jl Legian and its northern extension Jl Seminyak, the beach will at best be a long
slog. Get east of Jl Sunset and you’ll be needing a scarce cab to get to the most interest-
ing areas of the Kuta-Seminyak conurbation. Get east of Jl Ngurah Rai Bypass and you’ll
be on the wrong side of a traffic-choked road unsafe to cross as a pedestrian and with
nothing nearby worth a walk.

68

mysterious in a romantic way. The delicious Rainbow Cafe INTERNATIONAL $
food is upmarket Western and Balinese.
(Map p52; %765 730; Poppies Gang II; meals from

Made’s Warung INDONESIAN $$ 50,000Rp) Join generations of Kuta deni-

(Map p52; Jl Pantai Kuta; meals from 40,000Rp) zens quaffing the afternoon away. The vibe

Made’s was the original tourist warung in at this deeply shaded spot has changed lit-

Kuta. Through the years, the Westernised In- tle since people said things like ‘I grok that,

KUTA & SEMINYAK KE AUTTIAN&G L EG I A N donesian menu has been much copied. Classic man’. Many current customers are the off-

dishes such as nasi campur (rice served with spring of backpackers who met at adjoin-

side dishes) are served in an open-fronted ing tables.

setting that harkens back to when Kuta’s EAST OF JALAN LEGIAN

tourist hot spots were lit by gas lantern. Feyloon CHINESE $$

Kuta Night Market (Map p52; %766 308; www.feyloonrestaurant.com;

INDONESIAN $ Jl Raya Kuta 98; meals 80,000-250,000Rp; a) A

(Map p52; Jl Blambangan; meals 15,000-25,000Rp; glossy Hong Kong seafood palace where all

h6pm-midnight) This enclave of stalls and manner of creatures swim in an aquarium’s

plastic chairs bustles with locals and tourism worth of tanks at the entrance, unaware that

workers chowing down on hot-off-the-wok they will soon become part of your dinner.

treats, grilled goods and other fresh foods. Presentation is artful and the selection vast.

Kuta Market MARKET $ You can vary your eating with a number of

(Map p52; Jl Raya Kuta; h6am-4pm) Not big but good duck dishes. Lunch dim sum is a never-

its popularity ensures constant turnover. ending array of treats.

Look for some of Bali’s unusual fruits here, Take JAPANESE $$

such as the mangosteen. (Map p52; %759 745; Jl Patih Jelantik; meals

ALONG JALAN LEGIAN 70,000-300,000Rp) Flee Bali for a relaxed

The eating choices along Jl Legian seem version of Tokyo just by ducking under the
endless; worthy choices are not.
traditional fabric shield over the doorway

Kopi Pot here. Hyper-fresh sushi, sashimi and more

CAFE $$ are prepared under the fanatical eyes of a

(Map p52; %752 614; Jl Legian; meals 60,000- team of chefs behind a long counter. Dine at

150,000Rp; W) Shaded by trees, Kopi Pot is a low tables or hang out in a booth.

favourite, popular for its coffees, milkshakes LEGIAN
Along the streets of Legian, the ho-hum
and myriad desserts. The multilevel, open-air mix with the good, so browse a bit before
choosing.
dining area sits back from noxious Jl Legian.

Mama’s GERMAN $$

(Map p52; %761 151; Jl Legian; meals 80,000- Indo-National WESTERN, SEAFOOD $$

270,000Rp; h24hr; W) This German classic (Map p52; Jl Padma 17; meals from 50,000Rp) This

serves up schnitzel and other pork-heavy popular restaurant is home away from home

dishes around the clock. The menu is for legions of happy fans. Grab a cold one

so authentic that you’ll find dishes such with the rest of the crew at the bar while

as Königsberger klopse (pork meatballs in you take in the sweeping view of Legian’s

white sauce). Bintang comes by the litre and action, such as deciding which hair-plaiting

the open-air bar is a merry place for enjoy- style you like best. Then order the heaped-

ing various other imported beers and the up grilled seafood platter.

excellent local Storm microbrew.

ON & AROUND POPPIES GANG II Mang Engking INDONESIAN $$

Balcony INTERNATIONAL $$ (Map p52; %882 2000; Jl Nakula 88; meals

(Map p52; %757 409; Jl Benesari 16; meals 100,000-200,000Rp) Serving the food of In-

50,000-150,000Rp; hfrom 5am) The Balcony donesia, this large restaurant is a metaphor

has a breezy tropical design and sits above for the islands themselves, with various

the din of Jl Benesari below. Get ready thatched dining pavilions set amid ponds

for the day with a long breakfast menu. and water features. Hugely popular with

At night it’s sort of upscale surfer: pasta, Bali’s fast-growing middle class, the long

grilled meats and a few Indo classics. It’s menu focuses on fresh seafood. Service

all nicely done and the perfect place for an is snappy like the jaws of a shark, but far

impromptu date-night. more friendly.

69

Warung Murah INDONESIAN $ best of the beachfront restaurants on Legian’s
car-free strip, Mozarella serves Italian fare
(Map p52; Jl Arjuna; meals from 30,000Rp) Lunch more complex and authentic than that of its
south Bali competition. Fresh fish also fea-
goes swimmingly at this authentic warung tures; service is rather polished and you have
various open-air areas for star-highlighted
specialising in seafood. An array of grilled fish dining plus a more sheltered dining room.

awaits; if you prefer fowl over fin, the satay

ayam is succulent and a bargain. Hugely pop-

ular at lunch; try to arrive right before noon. KUTA & SEMINYAK KDUR ITNAK&I NLGEG&I AEN T E R TA I N M E N T

Warung Asia ASIAN, CAFE $ Seaside INTERNATIONAL $$

(Map p52; off Jl Arjuna & Jl Pura Bagus Taruna; meals (Map p52; %737 140; Jl Double Six; meals 60,000-

from 30,000Rp; W) Look down a little gang for 180,000Rp) The curving sweep of seating at

this gem: traditional Thai and Indonesian this sleek place provides beach views for one

dishes served in a stylish open-air cafe, an and all. Upstairs, there’s a vast patio with

authentic Italian espresso machine and lots oodles of tables for counting stars after the

of newspapers to peruse. sun goes down. Seafood and meat dishes

Aroma’s Cafe INTERNATIONAL $$ come with a touch of style.

(Map p52; %751 003; Jl Legian; meals 60,000- Zanzibar WESTERN $$
100,000Rp; W) A gentle garden setting en-
(Map p52; %733 529; Jl Arjuna; meals from

circled by water fountains is a perfect place 50,000Rp) Always buzzing, this popular patio

to start the day over great juices, breakfasts fronts a busy strip at Double Six Beach. Sun-

and coffee. A very pleasant place for a time set is prime time; the best views are from

out from Jl Legian. the tables on a 2nd-floor terrace. Dishes in-

Delicioso GELATO $ clude the nasi family and the burger bunch.

(Map p52; Jl Padma) This small stand offers up If it’s crowded, the many nearby competitors

real Italian gelato that’s big on flavour and will also do just fine.

even bigger on refreshment on a hot south 6 Drinking & Entertainment

Bali day. A combo of creamy mango and Around 6pm every day, sunset on the beach
is the big attraction, perhaps while enjoying
green mint will have you cooing ‘aaah’. a drink at a cafe with a sea view or with a
beer vendor on the beach. Later on, the leg-
Warung Yogya INDONESIAN $ endary nightlife action heats up. Many rag-
ers spend their early evening at one of the
(Map p52; %750 835; Jl Padma Utara; meals from hipster joints in Seminyak before working
their way south to oblivion.
30,000Rp) Hidden in the heart of Legian,
It won’t take you long to find out what
this simple warung is spotless and has had a the venues of the moment are. The stylish
clubs of Seminyak are popular with gay and
mod makeover. It serves up hearty portions straight crowds, but in general you’ll find a
mixed crowd anywhere in Kuta and Legian.
of local food for prices that would almost
Check out the free mag The Beat (www.
tempt a local. The gado gado comes with a beatmag.com) for good club listings and
other ‘what’s on’ news.
huge bowl of peanut sauce.

Saleko INDONESIAN $

(Map p52; Jl Nakula 4; meals from 15,000Rp) Just

off the madness of Jl Legian, this modest

open-front place draws the discerning for its

simple Sumatran fare. Spicy grilled chicken

and fish dare you to ladle on the volcanic

sambal. Saleko is a perfect spot to start try- TUBAN

ing Indonesian fare that has not been utterly DeeJay Cafe CLUB

rethought for timid tourist palates. Every- (Map p56; %758 880; Jl Kartika Plaza 8X, Kuta Sta-
tion Hotel; hmidnight-9am) The choice for clos-
thing is cooked halal.

ON THE BEACH ing out the night (or starting out the day).

Various restaurants and cafes face the water House DJs play tribal, underground, pro-
along Jl Pantai Arjuna, and there are more
along Jl Padma Utara. All are good come gressive, trance, electro and more. Beware
sunset.
of posers who set their alarms for 5am and

arrive all fresh.

oMozarella ITALIAN, SEAFOOD $$ KUTA
Jl Legian is lined with interchangeable bars
(Map p52; www.mozzarella-resto.com; Maharta Bali with bar stools moulded to the butts of hard-
drinking regulars.
Hotel, Jl Padma Utara; meals from 60,000Rp) The

KUTA & SEMINYAK SKHU TOAP P&I NLGEG I A N70

GETTING AWAY FROM IT ALL

Dodging cars, motorcycles, touts, dogs and dodgy footpaths can make walking through
Tuban, Kuta and Legian seem like anything but a holiday. It’s intense and can be stress-
ful. You may soon be longing for uncrowded places where you hear little more than the
rustling of palm fronds and the call of birds.

Think you need to book a trip out of town? Well, think again. You can escape to the
country without leaving the area. Swaths of undeveloped land and simple residential
areas where locals live often hide behind the commercial strips.

In Legian, take any of the narrow gang into the area bounded by Jl Legian, Jl Padma, Jl
Padma Utara and Jl Pura Bagus Taruna and soon you’ll be on narrow paths that go past
local houses and the occasional simple warung or shop. Wander at random and enjoy
the silence accented by, yes, the sound of palm fronds and birds.

oSky Garden Lounge BAR, CLUB LEGIAN & DOUBLE SIX BEACH
Most of Legian’s bars are smaller and ap-
(Map p52; www.61legian.com; Jl Legian 61; h24hr) peal to a more sedate crowd than those in
Kuta. The very notable exception is the area
This multilevel palace of flash flirts with at the end of Jl Arjuna/Jl Double Six where
there are cafes and clubs. A string of beach
height restrictions from its rooftop bar bars runs north from here on the Seminyak
beachwalk.
where all of Kuta twinkles around you.

Look for top DJs, a ground-level cafe and

paparazzi-wannabes. Munchers can enjoy a

long menu of bar snacks and meals, which

most people pair with shots. Roam from De Ja Vu Kitchen CAFE

floor to floor of this vertical playpen, where (Map p52; www.dejavukitchen.com; Jl Pantai Arjuna;

everybody seems to end up at some point. h11am-late) This former late-night club has

Apache Reggae Bar BAR morphed into the kind of sleek tune-filled

(Map p52; Jl Legian 146; h11pm-4am) One of the beach cafe that is a cliché in Byron Bay, Aus-

rowdier spots in Kuta, Apache jams in lo- tralia. There’s still plenty of house music, but

cals and visitors, many of whom are on the now the emphasis is on drinking cocktails

make. The music is loud, but that pounding with improbable names while gazing at the

you feel the next day is from the free-flowing view from the rooftop bar.

arak (distilled palm and cane alcohol) Cocoon CLUB

served in huge plastic jugs. Stumbling be- (Map p52; www.cocoon-beach.com; Jl Arjuna;

tween here and Bounty is a Kuta tradition. h10am-late) A huge pool with a view of

Twice Bar BAR Double Six Beach anchors this sort of high-

(Map p52; Poppies Gang II; h5pm-late) From the concept club (alcohol-branded singlets not

small opening, walking into this long, nar- allowed!) which has parties and events

row bar feels like entering an old carnival around the clock. Beds, loungers and VIP

funhouse, the kind with black walls and the areas surround the pool; at night some of

potential for a surprise a step or two away. In Bali’s best DJs spin theme nights.

back, however, you’ll find Kuta’s best effort 7 Shopping

at an indie rock club, with all the grungy – Kuta has a vast concentration of cheap taw-
dry shops, as well as huge, flashy surf-gear
and sweaty – feel you could hope for. emporiums. As you head north along Jl Le-
gian, the quality of the shops improves and
Bounty CLUB you start finding cute little boutiques, espe-
cially past Jl Melasti. Jl Arjuna has whole-
(Map p52; Jl Legian; h10pm-6am) Set on a faux sale fabric, clothing and craft stores, giving
it a bazaar feel. Continue into Seminyak for
sailing boat amid a minimall of food and absolutely fabulous shopping.

drink, the Bounty is a vast open-air disco Large malls are also making inroads. In
Tuban, the Discovery Mall is popular but has
that humps, thumps and pumps all night. been literally massively overshadowed by

Climb the blue-lit staircase and get down on

the poop deck to hip hop, techno, house and

anything else the DJs come up with. Foam

parties, a loose sexual vibe and lots of cheap

shots add to the rowdiness.

71

the flash new Beachwalk complex on Jl Pan- for girls of all ages. Clothes, gear, bikinis
tai Kuta. Kuta Sq stumbles along, in need of and plenty of other stuff in every shade of
new energy. bubblegum ever made.

Simple stalls with T-shirts, souvenirs and Rip Curl SURF GEAR
beachwear are everywhere (especially along
the Poppies). Many of these stalls are crowd- (Map p52; Kuta Sq) Cast that mopey black stuff
ed together in ‘art markets’ such as the Kuta
Square Art Market or the Jl Melasti Art Mar- aside and make a bit of a splash! This mother-
ket, where the ‘art’ consists of Bintang logo
reproductions. ship of the surfwear giant has a huge range of KUTA & SEMINYAK SKHU TOAP P&I NLGEG I A N

Bali’s top-selling souvenir for those left at beach clothes, waterwear and surfboards.
home are penis-shaped bottle openers in a
range of colours and sizes. Bargain hard to Next Generation Board Bags SURF GEAR
avoid paying a stiff price.
(Map p52; %0813 3700 0523; Jl Benesari) Choose

from myriad patterns and colours and then

watch your bag (from 250,000Rp) get made

on the shop floor in two days or less. There

Accessories are lots of other family-run surfer shops

Earthy Collection ACCESSORIES nearby.

(Map p52; %748 8400; Jl Legian 456) Handbags Bookshops

in every shape, size and colour imaginable, Small used-book exchanges can be found
scattered along the gang and roads, espe-
mostly made from materials woven right on cially the Poppies.

Bali. The staff will be happy to help you real-

ise your fantasy with a custom order. Kerta Bookshop

Djeremi Shop BOOKS

ACCESSORIES (Map p52; %758 047; Jl Pantai Kuta 6B) A book

(Map p52; %0815 578 8169; Jl Legian) Woven exchange with a better-than-average selec-

goods for yourself and your home. If the tion; many break the Patterson-Brown-

idea of a romantic mosquito net draped over Cornwall mould.

your bed gets you all itchy, come here. Periplus Bookshop

Arts & Crafts BOOKS

Schlocky stuff is the norm but you can find (Map p56; %769 757; Jl Kartika Plaza, Discovery
some interesting items that go beyond a gag
gift at a stag or hen party. Mall) Large selection of new books.

Kiki Shop MUSIC FOLLOW THE PARTY

(Map p52; %0819 1612 4351; Jl Pantai Kuta) Bali’s trendiest clubs cluster in about a
300m radius of the top-rated Sky Gar-
Custom-made musical instruments. Get a den Lounge. The distinction between
drinking and clubbing is blurry at best,
bongo drum and drive people mad in hos- with one morphing into another as the
night wears on (or the morning comes
tels worldwide. up). Most bars are free to enter, and of-
ten have special drink promotions and
Makmur Helmet HELMETS ‘happy hours’ that run at various inter-
vals until after midnight. Savvy partiers
(Map p52; %486 451; Jl Pura Puseh) Helmets are follow the specials from venue to venue
and enjoy a massively discounted night
mandatory for riding motorbikes (a lack out (club owners count on the drink
specials to lure in punters who then
thereof is a good way to attract unwanted can’t be bothered to leave). Look for
cut-price-drinks coupon fliers.
and potentially costly police interest) and this
Bali club ambience ranges from the
shop will kit you out in style – even if the hel- laid-back vibe of the surfer dives to
high-concept nightclubs with long drink
mets may not meet every international stand- menus and hordes of prowling servers.
Prostitutes have proliferated at some
ard for safety. Mohawk, Viking and more. Kuta clubs.

Beachwear & Surf Shops

A huge range of surf shops sells big-name
surf gear – including Mambo, Rip Curl and
Billabong – although goods may be only
marginally cheaper than overseas. Local
names include Surfer Girl and Quiksilver.
Most have numerous locations in south Bali.

Surfer Girl SURF WEAR

(Map p52; Jl Legian 138) A local legend, the win-

some logo says it all about this vast store

72

SUNSET DRINKS IN LEGIAN Tuban mall is built on the water and filled

Bali sunsets regularly explode in stun- with stores of every kind, including the
ning displays of reds, oranges and pur- large Centro and trendy Sogo department
ples. Sipping a cold one while watching stores.
this free show to the beat of the surf is
the top activity at 6pm. In Legian, the Istana Kuta Galleria MALL
best place for this is the strip of beach
that starts north of Jl Padma and runs (Map p52; Jl Patih Jelantik) An enormous open-
to the south end of Jl Pantai Arjuna.
KUTA & SEMINYAK K8 U TA & L EG I A N Along this car-free stretch of sand you’ll air mall that seems like a dud until you find
find genial young local guys with simple
chairs and cheap, cold beer (15,000Rp). an interesting shop amid the canyon of

glass. There is a hardware store in the rear if

your needs run towards rope and duct tape.

Carrefour MALL

(Map p52; %847 7222; Jl Sunset; h9am-10pm)

This vast outlet of the French discount chain

combines lots of small shops (books, com-

Times Bookstore BOOKS puters, bikinis etc) with one huge hyper-

(Map p52; %767 198; Kuta Sq) In Matahari De- market. It’s the place to stock up on staples

partment Store, this bookshop has a good and there’s a large ready-to-eat section and a

range of fiction. food court as well. The downside, however,

is inescapable: it’s a mall.

Clothing Matahari DEPARTMENT STORE

The local clothing industry has diversified (Map p52; %757 588; Kuta Sq; h9.30am-10pm)
from beach gear to sportswear and fashion
clothing. From the intersection with Jl Pad- This store has the basics – fairly staid cloth-
ma, go north on Jl Legian to Seminyak for
the most interesting clothing shops. ing, a floor full of souvenirs, jewellery and

a supermarket. Get some decent-quality lug-

gage here should you need extra bags to haul

Animale CLOTHING your wretched excess home.

(Map p52; %754 093; Jl Legian 361) One of Bali’s Fabric

top-end international brands, Animale has Stroll Jl Arjuna in Legian for open-air whole-
salers selling fabric, clothes and house-
the full range of its collection at this location wares. Some recommendations include the
following.
(one of many).

Desy Shop SHOES

(Map p52; %733 595; Jl Arjuna 61) Zillions of san- Busana Agung TEXTILES

dals, all made right here. Show some inter- (Map p52; %733 442; Jl Arjuna) Here you’ll find

est and the owner will offer to make you 100, stacks of vibrant batiks and other fabrics

wholesale. that scream ‘sew me!’.

Malls & Department Stores Sriwijaya FABRIC

Beachwalk MALL (Map p52; %733 581; Jl Arjuna 35) Makes batik

(Map p52; www.beachwalkbali.com; Jl Pantai Kuta; and other fabrics to order in myriad colours.

h10am-midnight) This vast open-air mall and Furniture

condo development across from Kuta Beach On Jl Patih Jelantik, between Jl Legian and
Jl Pura Puseh, there are scores of furniture
is filled with international chains: from Gap shops manufacturing everything from in-
stant ‘antiques’ to wooden statues. However,
to Starbuck’s. Cooling mists pour from the a few of the stores make and sell teak out-
door furniture of very high quality at very
ceilings and water features course amid low prices. A luxurious deckchair goes for
about 200,000Rp to 300,000Rp; most of the
the generic retail glitz. Other developments stores work with freight agencies.

planned nearby will vastly overshadow

quaint and tawdry Poppies Gang II and

continue Kuta’s transformation into a glitzy

international beach resort.

Discovery Mall MALL

(Map p56; %755 522; www.discoveryshoppingmall. 8 Information

com; Jl Kartika Plaza; h9am-9pm) Swallowing Dangers & Annoyances

up a significant section of the shoreline, The streets and gang are usually safe but there
are annoyances. Scooter-borne prostitutes (who
this huge, hulking and popular enclosed

73

hassle single men late at night) cruise after dark. Carries hard-to-find items, like that antidote for KUTA & SEMINYAK K8 U TA & L EG I A N
Walking along you may hear ‘massage’ followed irksome partiers in the morning: earplugs.
by ‘young girl’ and the ubiquitous ‘transport’ Legian Medical Clinic (%758 503; Jl Benesari;
followed by ‘blow’. But your biggest irritation will hon call 24hr) Has an ambulance and dental
likely be the sclerotic traffic. service. It’s 600,000Rp for a consultation with
ALCOHOL POISONING There are ongoing an English-speaking Balinese doctor. Hotel
reports of injuries and deaths among tourists room visits can be arranged.
and locals due to arak being adulterated with
methanol, a poisonous form of alcohol. Avoid Money
free cocktails and any offers of arak. ATMs abound and can be found everywhere,
HAWKERS Crackdowns mean that it’s rare to including in the ubiquitous Circle K and Mini
find carts in the Kuta tourist area, but street Mart convenience stores.
selling is common, especially on hassle street, Central Kuta Money Exchange (%762 970;
Jl Legian, where selling and begging can be Jl Raya Kuta) Trustworthy; deals in myriad
aggressive. The beach isn’t unbearable, but the currencies.
upper part has souvenir sellers and masseurs
(who may grab hold of you and not let go). Post
SURF The surf can be dangerous, with a strong Postal agencies that can send but not receive
current on some tides, especially up north in mail are common.
Legian. Lifeguards patrol swimming areas of Main post office (Jl Selamet; h7am-2pm Mon-
the beaches at Kuta and Legian, indicated by Thu, to 11am Fri, to 1pm Sat) On a little road
red-and-yellow flags. If they say the water is too east of Jl Raya Kuta, this small and efficient
rough or unsafe to swim in, they mean it. Red post office has an easy, sort-it-yourself poste
flags with skull and crossbones mean no swim- restante service. It’s well practised in shipping
ming allowed. The lifeguards are very dedicated, large packages.
as anyone who saw the Bali series of the show
Bondi Rescue can attest. Tourist Information
THEFT Visitors lose things from unlocked (and Places that advertise themselves as ‘tourist
some locked) hotel rooms and from the beach. information centres’ are usually commercial
Going into the water and leaving valuables on travel agents, or worse: time-share condo sales
the beach is simply asking for trouble. Snatch operations.
thefts from crooks on motorbikes are more Hanafi (%0818 568 364; www.hanafi.net; Jl
common, but valuable items can be left at your Pantai Kuta 1E) This gay- and family-friendly
hotel reception. tour operator and guide operates in Kuta from
WATER POLLUTION The seawater around
Kuta is commonly contaminated by run-off from KUTA’S FAVOURITE STORE
both built-up areas and surrounding farmland,
especially after heavy rain. Swim far away from The mobs out the front look like they’re
streams, including the often foul and smelly one making a run on a bank. Inside it’s sim-
at Double Six Beach. ply pandemonium. Welcome to Joger
(Map p56; Jl Raya Kuta; h11am-6pm), a
Emergency Bali retail legend that is the most popu-
Police station (%751 598; Jl Raya Kuta; lar store in the south. No visitor from
h24hr) Ask to speak to the tourist police. elsewhere in Indonesia would think of
Tourist Police Post (%784 5988; Jl Pantai leaving the island without a doe-eyed
Kuta; h24hr) This is a branch of the main plastic puppy (4000Rp) or one of the
police station in Denpasar. Right across from thousands of T-shirts bearing a wry,
the beach, the officers have a gig that is sort of funny or simply inexplicable phrase
like a Balinese Baywatch. (almost all are limited edition). In fact
the sign out the front says ‘Pabrik
Internet Access Kata-Kata’, which means ‘factory of
There are scores of places to connect to the words’. When we were there the big
internet. Most have poky connections and seller said ‘I love you’ in a haiku of Eng-
charge about 300Rp a minute. lish, Chinese and Indonesian. Warning:
conditions inside the cramped store
Medical Services are simply insane.
See p384 for medical clinics serving all of Bali.
Kimia Farma Legian (Jl Legian; h24hr) Kuta
(%755 622; Jl Pantai Kuta; h24hr) Tuban
(%757 483; Jl Raya Kuta 15; h24hr) Outlets
of the local chain of well-stocked pharmacies.

74

a small veterinary clinic he shares with his of whom own boutiques or design clothes,
sister. He’s a valuable source of information. surf, or seem to do nothing at all. It may be

KUTA & SEMINYAK S8 E M I N YA K 8 Getting There & Away immediately north of Kuta and Legian, but
in many respects Seminyak feels almost like
Bemo it’s on another island.

Bemos (minibuses) regularly travel between It’s also a very dynamic place, home to
Kuta and the Tegal terminal in Denpasar – the dozens of restaurants and clubs and a wealth
fare should be 8000Rp. The route goes from Jl of creative shops and galleries. World-class
Raya Kuta near Jl Pantai Kuta, looping past the hotels line the beach – and what a beach it is,
beach, then on Jl Melasti and back past Bemo as deep and sandy as Kuta’s but less crowded.
Corner for the trip back to Denpasar.
Seminyak seamlessly merges with Kero-

Bus bokan, which is immediately north – in fact
the exact border between the two is as fuzzy
For public buses to anywhere in Bali, you’ll have as most other geographic details on Bali.
to go to the appropriate terminal in Denpasar Note that despite the hype not every beach-
first. front hotel here is world-class or charges
world-class prices. All those restaurants and
Perama (%751 551; www.peramatour.com; Jl clubs combine to give travellers the greatest
Legian 39; h7am-10pm) is the main shuttle-bus choice of style and budget in Bali. Sure there
operation in town, and may do hotel pick-ups are exclusive boutiques, but there are also
and drop-offs for an extra 10,000Rp (confirm workshops where everything is wholesale.
this with the staff when making arrangements). And when it all becomes too much, just head
It usually has at least one bus a day to its desti- to a quiet corner of the beach and chill.
nations, which are as follows:

Destination Fare (Rp) Duration 1 Sights
Candidasa 60,000 3½hr Pura Petitenget
Lovina 100,000 4½hr TEMPLE
Padangbai 60,000 3hr
Sanur 25,000 30min (Map p76; Jl Pantai Kaya Aya) North of the string
Ubud 50,000 1½hr
of hotels on Jl Pantai Kaya Aya and across

from the beach, this is an important tem-

ple and the scene of many ceremonies. It is

one of a string of sea temples that stretches

8 Getting Around from Pura Luhur Ulu Watu on the Bukit Pe-

The hardest part about getting around south ninsula north to Tanah Lot in western Bali.
Bali is the traffic. Besides using taxis, you can
hire a motorbike, often with a surfboard rack, Petitenget loosely translates as ‘magic box’, a
or a bike – just ask where you’re staying. One of
the nicest ways to get around the area is by foot treasured belonging of the legendary 16th-
along the beach.
century priest Nirartha, who refined the
To/From the Airport
An official taxi from the airport costs 35,000Rp Balinese religion and visited this site often.
to Tuban, 50,000Rp to Kuta and 60,000Rp to
Legian. When travelling to the airport, get a Also in the compound, look for Pura
metered taxi for savings.
Masceti (Map p76), an agricultural temple

where farmers pray for relief from rat infes-

tations, and savvy builders make offerings of

forgiveness before planting yet another villa

in the rice fields.

Beaches

Taxi Seminyak continues the long swath of Kuta
Bluebird Taxi (%701 111) are the best. In traffic, Beach. A good stretch is found near Pura Pe-
a ride into Seminyak can top 50,000Rp and take titenget. It is usually uncrowded and has plen-
more than 30 minutes; walking the beach will ty of parking (2000Rp). It is often the scene of
be quicker. both religious ceremonies and surfing. For the
latter, hire a board at Deluta Surf (Map p76; Jl
Seminyak Petitenget 40x) right near the temple.

%0361 Another good stretch of beach runs south
from the end of Jl Abimanyu to Jl Arjuna in
Seminyak is flash, brash, phoney and filled Legian. The vendors here are mellow and a
with bony models. It’s also the centre of sunset lounger and ice-cold Bintang cost
life for hordes of the island’s expats, many about 15,000Rp. A walkway makes wandering

75

PICK A NAME, ANY NAME KUTA & SEMINYAK AS ECMT IIVNIYTAI EKS

A small lane or alley is known as a gang, and most of them in Bali lack signs or even
names. Some are referred to by the name of a connecting street, eg Jl Padma Utara is
the gang going north of Jl Padma.

Meanwhile, some streets in Kuta, Legian and Seminyak have more than one name.
Many streets are unofficially named after a well-known temple and/or business place, or
according to the direction they head. In recent years there has been an attempt to im-
pose official – and usually more Balinese – names on the streets. But the old, unofficial
names are still common.

Following are the old (unofficial) and new (official) names, from north to south:

Old (unofficial) Current (official)
Jl Oberoi Jl Laksmana
Jl Raya Seminyak northern stretch: Jl Basangkasa
Jl Dhyana Pura/Jl Gado Gado Jl Abimanyu
Jl Double Six Jl Arjuna
Jl Pura Bagus Taruna/Rum Jungle Rd Jl Werkudara
Jl Padma Jl Yudistra
Poppies Gang II Jl Batu Bolong
Jl Pantai Kuta Jl Pantai Banjar Pande Mas
Jl Kartika Plaza Jl Dewi Sartika
Jl Segara Jl Jenggala
Jl Satria Jl Kediri

this stretch a breeze and you can choose from Prana SPA
various beach bars. Come here for sunsets.
(Map p76; %730 840; www.thevillas.net; Jl Kunti;
Because of the limited road access, the massage from 450,000Rp; h10am-10pm) A pala-
beaches in Seminyak tend to be less crowded
than further south in Kuta. This also means tial Moorish fantasy that is easily the most
that they’re less patrolled and the water
conditions are less monitored. The odds of lavishly decorated spa in Bali, Prana offers
encountering dangerous rip tides and other
hazards are ever-present, especially as you everything from basic hour-long massages to
head north.
facials and all manner of beauty treatments.
2 Activities
Feel cleansed after Ayurvedic treatments.
Massages & Spas
Seminyak’s spas (and those of Kerobokan) Mana Holistics HEALING
are among the best on Bali and offer a huge
range of treatments, therapies and pleasures. (Map p76; %318 5634; www.manaholistics.com;

Jl Petitenget; treatments average 500,000Rp;

h9am-8pm) Rolfing, shiatsu and homeopa-

thy are just some of the healing techniques

employed at this spalike health centre that

emphasises natural methods. Body cleans-

ing – inside and out – along with detox

oJari Menari programs are designed to give you a fresh

SPA physical palette.

(Map p76; %736 740; Jl Raya Seminyak 47; sessions Bodyworks SPA
from 300,000Rp; h10am-9pm) Jari Menari
(Map p76; %733 317; www.bodyworksbali.com;
is true to its name, which means ‘dancing
Jl Kayu Jati 2; massage from 222,000Rp; h9am-
fingers’: your body will be one happy dance
10pm) Get waxed, get your hair done, get
floor. The all-male staff use massage tech-

niques that emphasise rhythm. Many say the kinks rubbed out of your joints – all

this is the best place for a massage in Bali, a this and more is on the menu at this uber-

claim backed up by numerous awards. popular spa in the heart of Seminyak. The

rooms are airy and everything is stress-free

casual.

76

Seminyak & Kerobokan C D

AB

30 44
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KUTA & SEMINYAK AS ECMT IIVNIYTAI EKS4442 #ú Ø# 12 45
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.# Jl Kayu Jati ü# ÿ# 18 Rim
#ú 35 # 10 71 þ# 85 Oþ#3b1#úe47rþ##ú9o2i9)þ#130þ#þ#9156ü##ýC680aþ#1r#ï0g0o
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44444þ#79 44

444444465#ý SEMINYAK
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A 444B 444C 4 D
Cooking Schools by noted chef Nyoman Sudiyasa. Students
learn to prepare Balinese spices and sam-
oSate Bali COOKING COURSE bals, which are then used to flavour duck,
fish and pork dishes. Not up to attending
(Map p76; %736 734; Jl Laksmana 22; course from school? The restaurant is delicious.

400,000Rp; h9.30am-1.30pm) Sate Bali runs

an excellent Balinese cooking course taught

77

e# 0 200 m the vanishing rice fields. Booking a private
0 0.1 miles villa is possible.
F
E Many of Seminyak’s most pleasant hotels
1 are located on small lanes off major roads
80 such as Jl Abimanyu and Jl Laksmana. They
are both quiet and close to the action.
JI #þ #þ 83
Gunung
#þ ú# 32 Tangkuban Perahu
89

#æ 1 JALAN ABIMANYU & AROUND KUTA & SEMINYAK S EL EMEI NP IYNAGK

Raja Gardens GUESTHOUSE $$

(Map p76; %730 494; [email protected]; Jl Abi-

manyu; r 500,000-700,000Rp; aWs) Enjoy

Jl Raya Mertanadi spacious, grassy grounds in this quiet inn

Jl Raya Kerobokan almost on the beach. The nine rooms are

2 fairly bare-bones but there are open-air
bathrooms and plenty of potted plants. The

basic rate gets you a fan; more money buys

air-con and a fridge.

Green Room GUESTHOUSE $

(Map p76; %731 412; www.thegreenroombali.com; Jl

Abimanyu 63B; r US$40-70; aWs) A new-age

94 cheapie, the Green Room evokes Robinson
#þ
3 Crusoe from its hammocks to its banana-
4
Kimia 104 #þ tree motif. Lounge around the small, ink-

Pharma ú# 37 blot-shaped pool or chill in the open bale

î# ú# 39 #þ (pavilion) with its media centre. Some of
# Channel1 97
#þ the 14 rooms (the cheapest are fan-only) in a
77 50 ú# Jl Sunset
two-storey block feature jungle themes.

#þ 84 Sarinande Beach Inn HOTEL $$

#þ 87 (Map p76; %730 383; www.sarinandehotel.com;
82 #þ Ø# 7
Jl Raya Seminyak Jl Sarinande 15; r 450,000-600,000Rp; aWs)

Excellent value. The 26 rooms are in older

two-storey blocks around a small pool; the

decor is a bit dated but everything is well

59 maintained. Amenities include fridges, sat-

ü# ellite TV and a cafe. The beach is three min-
#þ103
90 #þ #þ99 Jl Kunti 27 utes by foot.
ú#
98 #þ5ü#896ú##þ40ú#51 #þ 5 Bali Agung Village HOTEL $$
86 Ø# 6
9
(Map p76; %730 367; www.bali-agung.com; off Jl
ú# 36 102 #þ ú#
Abimanyu; r/villas from US$85/150; as) Off a
53 64 38
ú# hidden backstreet, this attractive place has
(Jl Abimanyu) ý#
ú# 42 rooms in bungalow-style units that are
56
ý# ý# 66 ÿ# 19 popular with budget-conscious groups. The
63 ÿ# 17 #þ 76
grounds are lush and there’s a profusion of
#þ 74
Balinese wood and stone carvings. Look for
29 #11
ò# ú# the statue of a giraffe as you navigate along

the alleys.

‚
To Ryoshi Seminyak Ned’s Hide-Away GUESTHOUSE $
House of Jazz
EF (Map p76; %731 270; [email protected].

4 Sleeping id; Gang Bima 3; r from 120,000Rp; a) There are

Seminyak has a wide range of places to 18 good-value basic rooms behind Bintang
stay, from world-class resorts such as the
Oberoi to more humble hotels hidden away Supermarket. A new expansion includes
on backstreets. This is also the start of villa-
land, which runs north from here through some extracheap rooms.

Inada Losmen GUESTHOUSE $

(Map p76; %732 269; [email protected];

Gang Bima 9; r from 150,000Rp) Buried in a gang

78

KUTA & SEMINYAK S EL EMEI NP IYNAGK Seminyak & Kerobokan ú Eating
26 Bali Catering Co.......................................B2
æ Sights 27 Bali Deli ..................................................... F5
1 Kerobokan Jail.......................................... E1 28 Biku ...........................................................B3
2 Pura Masceti............................................ B3 29 Bintang Supermarket .............................E6
3 Pura Petitenget ....................................... B3 30 Cafe Degan............................................... D1
31 Earth Cafe.................................................D4
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 32 Fruit Market...............................................E1
4 Amo Beauty Spa ..................................... B2 33 Hu'u ...........................................................B3
5 Bodyworks............................................... B3 34 Ibu Mangku...............................................B3
6 Deluta Surf............................................... B3 35 La Lucciola ...............................................B4
7 Jari Menari ................................................E4 36 La Sal......................................................... E5
8 Mana Holistics......................................... B3 37 L'Assiette.................................................. E3
9 Prana .........................................................F5 38 Made's Warung II..................................... E5
10 Sate Bali ................................................... B4 39 Mama San ................................................ E3
11 Seminyak Language 40 Mannekepis.............................................. E5
School.....................................................F6 41 Métis.......................................................... D1
12 Spa Bonita ............................................... B2 42 Mozaic Beach Club..................................A2
43 Mykonos ...................................................C4
ÿ Sleeping 44 Sardine...................................................... D1
13 Bali Agung Village ................................... D5 45 Sarong.......................................................B2
14 Bali Baik Villa ........................................... B3 Sate Bali.......................................... (see 10)
15 Casa Artista ............................................. C5 46 Tuesday Night Pizza Club ......................C4
16 Green Room ............................................ D6 47 Tulip........................................................... C1
17 Inada Losmen...........................................E6 48 Ultimo........................................................D4
18 Mutiara Bali.............................................. C3 Waroeng Bonita..............................(see 81)
19 Ned's Hide-Away......................................E6 49 Warung Aneka Rasa................................D4
20 Oberoi....................................................... C5 50 Warung Ibu Made ....................................E4
21 Raja Gardens ........................................... D6 51 Warung Italia............................................ F5
22 Samaya .................................................... B4 52 Warung Kolega ........................................C2
23 Sarinande Beach Inn .............................. C5 53 Warung Mimpi ......................................... E5
24 Taman Ayu Cottage................................ B2 54 Warung Sobat.......................................... A1
25 W Retreat & Spa Bali –
Seminyak .............................................. A2

behind Bintang Supermarket, this budget oSamaya VILLA $$$
champ is a short walk from clubs, beach and
other Seminyak joy. The 12 rooms are small (Map p76; %731 149; www.thesamayabali.com; Jl
and somewhat dark.
Pantai Kaya Aya; villas from US$400; aiWs)

Understated yet cultured, the Samaya

JALAN LAKSMANA & AROUND has been one of the best bets right on the

oOberoi beach in south Bali. Now it has been com-

HOTEL $$$ pletely rebuilt and the 30 villas are new,

(Map p76; %730 361; www.oberoihotels.com; Jl each featuring a highly tasteful interior
Laksmana; r/villas from US$260/500; aiWs)
and private pool. The ‘Royal Compound’

One of the world’s top hotels, the beautiful- across the road trades location for larger

ly understated Oberoi has been a refined units. The food, from breakfast onwards,

Balinese-style beachside retreat since 1971. is superb.

All accommodations have private verandas, Bali Baik Villa VILLA $$$

and as you move up the food chain, addi- (Map p76; %847 8192; www.balibaikvilla.com; Jl

tional features include private villas, ocean Telaga Waja 18; r from US$200; aWs) About a

views and private walled pools. From the 10-minute walk from the beach, Bali Baik is

cafe, overlooking the almost-private sweep in the heart of Seminyak’s villa land. Here

of beach, to the numerous luxuries, this is the units are very large and have even larger

a place to spoil yourself. pools (no mere plunge dip here). Common

areas outside are spacious and you can have

79

55 Warung Sulawesi .....................................C1 75 Coco Rose ................................................B3 KUTA & SEMINYAK ESAETMIINNGYA K
56 Warung Taman 76 Dinda Rella ............................................... F6
77 Divine Diva................................................E4
Bambu ....................................................F6 78 Drifter........................................................C4
79 Folk Art Gallery ........................................C4
û Drinking
57 Bali Bakery............................................... C4 Ganesha Bookshop.......................(see 28)
58 Buzz Cafe..................................................E5 80 Hobo...........................................................E1
59 Café Moka.................................................E5 81 Horn ..........................................................B2
Café Seminyak .............................. (see 29) 82 Inti..............................................................E4
60 Café Zucchini........................................... D4 83 JJ Bali Button............................................E1
61 Grocer & Grind ........................................ C3 84 Kemarin Hari Ini.......................................E4
62 Mano......................................................... A3 85 Kody & Ko.................................................C4
86 Le Toko ..................................................... F5
ý Entertainment 87 Les Enfants du Paradis...........................E4
63 Bali Jo ........................................................E6
64 JP's ............................................................E5 Lilla Lane....................................... (see 103)
65 Ku De Ta................................................... B5 88 Lily Jean....................................................D4
66 Obsession .................................................E6 89 Lio ...............................................................E1
67 Potato Head............................................. A3 90 Luna Collection........................................ E5
68 Red Carpet 91 Milo's .........................................................C4
Champagne Bar................................... D4 92 Namu.........................................................B3
69 Zappaz...................................................... C4 93 Nico Perez ................................................D4
94 Nôblis ........................................................E3
þ Shopping 95 Paul Ropp .................................................D4
70 2nd Skin ................................................... B3 96 Periplus Bookshop.................................. E5
71 Allegra ...................................................... C4 97 Pourquoi Pas............................................ E3
Ashitaba ........................................(see 103) 98 Sabbatha .................................................. E5
72 Bamboo Blonde ...................................... D4 99 Samsara ................................................... E5
73 Bathe ........................................................ B2 100 St Isador ...................................................D4
74 Biasa..........................................................F6 101 Street Dogs ..............................................D4
Biasa Art Space..............................(see 74) 102 Theater Art Gallery.................................. E5
Blue Glue.......................................(see 103) 103 Vivacqua ................................................... E5
104 You Like Lamp ......................................... E3

no end of fun behind the privacy – ensuring blocks around a frangipani-draped pool
walls. Staff will appear in a flash to prepare area. Seventeen large private villas occupy
a fresh breakfast or other services. one half of the compound. Wi-fi can be
pricey.
Casa Artista GUESTHOUSE $$$
5 Eating
(Map p76; %736 749; www.casaartistabali.com; Jl
Jl Laksmana is the focus of Seminyak eating
Sari Dewi; r from US$150; aWs) You’ll literally but there are great choices for every budget
virtually everywhere. Note that some restau-
dance for joy at this cultured guesthouse rants morph into clubs as the night wears
on. Conversely, some bars and clubs also
where the owner, a professional tango danc- have good food.

er, offers lessons. Ten compact rooms in an

elegant two-storey house surround a pool.

Go for a 2nd-floor room and relax amid

flamboyant bling.

Mutiara Bali HOTEL $$ JALAN ABIMANYU

(Map p76; %734 966; www.mutiarabali.com; Jl Warung Mimpi INDONESIAN $
Braban 77; r US$100-140, villas from US$250;
(Map p76; %732 738; Jl Abimanyu; meals from

aiWs) Although hidden on a small road 40,000Rp) A sweet little open-air shopfront

behind Jl Laksmana, the Mutiara is close warung in the midst of cacophonous night-

to fine dining (two minutes) and the beach life. A dear husband-and-wife team cook

(five minutes). There are 29 good-sized Indo classics simply and well. It’s all fresh

and nicely furnished rooms in two-storey and tasty.

80

SEMINYAK’S CURVING Made’s Warung II INDONESIAN $$
SPINE
(Map p76; %732 130; www.madeswarung.com; Jl
The thriving heart of Seminyak lines
meandering Jl Laksmana (aka Jl Raya Seminyak; meals 40,000-160,000Rp) Freshly
Oberoi). It heads towards the beach
from bustling Jl Raya Seminyak and expanded, the northern branch of Made’s
then turns north through a part of Sem-
inyak that some people call Petitenget has a buzz many thought unlikely for such a
(and where the proper road name is
the little-used Jl Pantai Kaya Aya). The long-running veteran. But the well-prepared
road is lined with a profusion of restau-
KUTA & SEMINYAK ESAETMIINNGYA K rants, upscale boutiques and hotels as Indonesian food is as visitor-friendly as ever
it curves through Seminyak and into
Kerobokan. Most agree that the name and the presentation artful. The little bags of
changes to Jl Raya Petitenget when it
eventually veers east and intersects Balinese snack crackers are a delight. You’ll
Jl Raya Kerobokan. Like so much of
Bali, it would be the perfect road for a need to book (or wait) in high season.
window-shopping or cafe-hopping stroll
if not for the lack of decent footpaths Warung Italia ITALIAN $$
for pedestrians. As you dodge taxis and
gaping potholes in front of an exclusive (Map p76; %737 437; Jl Kunti 2; meals 40,000-
boutique, think of it as an adventure.
100,000Rp; h8am-7pm; a) The climax in any

classic warung happens at lunch, when

happy diners walk along in front of the dis-

play cases and have their plates filled with a

wide selection of treats. Here, warung-style

meets Italian, as diners select from a range

of pastas, salads and more. Next to the open-

air warung area, a restaurant section with

a wood-burning pizza oven features a long

menu.

Mannekepis BELGIAN $$

(Map p76; %847 5784; www.mannekepis

-bistro.com; Jl Raya Seminyak 2; meals 60,000-

La Sal SPANISH $$ 200,000Rp; W) That little icon of Brussels

(Map p76; %738 321; www.lasalbali.com; Jl Drupadi; is permanently peeing out front at this

meals from US$15; h5-11pm) The Manchego surprisingly good Belgian bistro. Tear your

cheese comes direct from the Iberian Penin- eyes away from the fish swimming in the

sula at this tapas place, which also has more ceiling tank to peruse a selection of excel-

substantial meals of steaks and paella. Dine lent steaks, all served with top-notch frites.

in the twinkly garden or in the open-sided There is live jazz and blues many nights. Sit

room with Moorish hints. A good selection on the upper-floor terrace away from the

of reds washes it all down. bedlam of the street.

JALAN RAYA SEMINYAK Warung Ibu Made INDONESIAN $

oMama San FUSION $$ (Map p76; Jl Raya Seminyak; meals 15,000Rp;

(Map p76; %730 436; www.mamasanbali.com; Jl h7am-7pm) The woks roar almost from

Raya Kerobokan 135; meals 60,000-120,000Rp) All dawn to dusk amid the constant hubbub on

the action is on the 2nd floor of this buzzy this busy corner of Jl Raya Seminyak where

warehouse-sized restaurant right on the several stalls cook food fresh under the

edge of Seminyak and Sunset roads. A long shade of a huge banyan.

cocktail list provides liquid balm for the Bali Deli SUPERMARKET $$

mojito set and has lots of tropical-flavoured (Map p76; Jl Kunti 117X) Almost at Jl Sunset, the

pours. The menu emphasises small dishes lavish deli counter at this market is loaded

from across Southeast Asia. with imported cheeses, meats and baked

Warung Taman Bambu BALINESE $ goods. This is the place to come for above-

(Map p76; Jl Plawa 10; meals from 20,000Rp; W) average wines for the villa or to prepare a

You’ll be diverted from reaching the pretty killer picnic.

garden out back by the array of lovely food Bintang Supermarket SUPERMARKET $

out front. This classic warung may look (Map p76; %730 552; Jl Raya Seminyak 17) Always

simple from the street but the comfy tables are – busy, this large supermarket is the grocery

like the many fresh and spicy dishes on offer favourite among expats (although Carrefour

– a cut above the norm. There’s a small stand is tough competition). Affordable sunscreen,

for babi guling (suckling pig) right next door. bug spray and other sundries as well.

81

JALAN LAKSMANA Mykonos GREEK $$
Saddled by some with the unimaginative
name ‘Eat Street’, this restaurant row re- (Map p76; %733 253; Jl Laksmana; meals US$10-
wards the indecisive as you can stroll the
strip and see what sparks a craving. Prices 20) This long-time Greek place honours the
are uniformly popular.
land of Apollo with a classic menu of Hel-

lenic standards. The excellent ‘Mykonos

shrimp’ is fragrant with garlic and lemon.

oUltimo ITALIAN $$ Earth Cafe CAFE $ KUTA & SEMINYAK DS ERMI NI NK IYNAGK

(Map p76; www.balinesia.co.id; Jl Laksmana 104; (Map p76; Jl Laksmana; meals from 40,000Rp; v)

meals 60,000-220,000Rp) It’s simple to count The good vibes are organic at this vegetar-

your way to dining joy at this vast and ian cafe and store amid the upmarket retail

always popular restaurant in a part of ghetto of Seminyak. Choose from creative

Seminyak as thick with eateries as a good salads, sandwiches or wholegrain vegan

risotto. Choose a table overlooking the goodies. A retail section sells healthful po-

street action, out back in one of the gardens tions and lotions. While perusing the book-

or inside. Ponder the surprisingly authentic shelves, don’t get ahead of yourself in the

menu and then let the army of servers take colonic irrigation section.

charge. Warung Aneka Rasa INDONESIAN $

Sate Bali INDONESIAN $$ (Map p76; Jl Laksmana; meals from 15,000Rp) De-

(Map p76; Jl Laksmana; meals from 90,000Rp; cision time: you can get some bland, salty

h11am-10pm) Ignoring the strip-mall loca- snack from the ubiquiutous Cirkle K or you

tion, enjoy traditional Balinese dishes at can dive into this local gem and try some In-

this small cafe run by chef Nyoman Sudi- donesian snacks. Suggestion: do the latter.

yasa (who also has a cooking school here). Nutty, spicy and fiery treats are sold here

The multicourse rijsttafel is a symphony of as well as all manner of local classics in the

tastes, including the addictive babi kecap simplest surrounds imaginable.

(pork in a sweet soy sauce) and tum bebek Ibu Mangku BALINESE

(minced duck in banana leaf). (Map p76; Jl Kayu Jati; meals from 20,000Rp)

La Lucciola FUSION $$$ Where your driver takes lunch. Look for the

(Map p76; %730 838; Jl Pantai Kaya Aya; meals from cabs in front of this bamboo place with a

120,000Rp) A sleek beachside restaurant with serene garden out the back. The must-have

good views from the 2nd-floor tables across is the minced-chicken satay, redolent with

a lovely lawn and sand to the surf. The bar lemongrass and other spices. The nasi cam-

is big with sunset-watchers, although most pur is great value.

then move onto dinner. The menu is a cre- 6 Drinking

ative melange of international fare with an Seminyak has developed a full-on cafe cul-

Italian flair. ture. The idle masses can while away hours

Hu’u FUSION $$$ on terraces or overlooking the beach.

(Map p76; %736 443; www.huubali.com; Jl Pe- JL RAYA SEMINYAK

titenget; h11am-2am) Oodles of little tea oBuzz Cafe

candles provide a romantic glow at night CAFE

for tables under the stars. There’s steak, (Map p76; Jl Raya Seminyak 99; W) The name is

seafood and a good selection of vegetarian eponymous at this busy cafe located behind

dishes plus interesting takes on local dishes. some rare Seminyak trees right where Jl Kunti

Service is polished; late in the evening Hu’u T-bones Jl Seminyak. The open front lets you

takes on a nightclub vibe. wave in fellow glitteratti as they santer past.

Tuesday Night Pizza Club PIZZERIA $$ The fresh drink of choice is the Green Hornet –

(Map p76; %730 614, 876 6600; Jl Laksmana; pizzas a combo of lemon, lime and mint. The food

25,000-200,000Rp; h6pm-midnight) Tasty pizzas is fresh and simple (meals from 30,000Rp).

come in five sizes (If you’re hungry? get a me- Café Seminyak CAFE

dium) at this joint with a postindustrial vibe. (Map p76; %736 967; Jl Raya Seminyak 17) Right

Pizzas have a range of pop-culture names like in front of the busy Bintang Supermarket,

Hawaii Five-O (ham and pineapple). There this cute and casual place has excellent

are tables but fast and efficient delivery to smoothies, and sandwiches made with

hotels and villas is hugely popular. freshly baked bread.

82

SEMINYAK BEACH SUNSETS Mano CAFE

At the beach end of Jl Abimanyu in (Map p76; Petitenget Beach) Tucked away behind
Seminyak you have a choice: turn right
for trendy beach clubs, or turn left for Pura Petitenget, this basic beachside cafe
a much more frolicsome experience.
You’ll discover mock-Moorish affairs overlooks a lovely and uncrowded stretch of
with oodles of huge pillows for loung-
ing, and all manner of simple bars lining sand in otherwise busy Seminyak. Escape the
the path along the sand. It’s all more
flash than the local guys selling beers crowds and fake glam elsewhere for a cold
from coolers in Legian but just as much
KUTA & SEMINYAK SE NE MT EI NRYTA KI N M E N T fun. Often there’s even live music as the one here: the sunset is just as spectacular.
light fades.
3 Entertainment
One of our favorites is Champlung,
which has plush pillows and chairs clus- Like your vision at 2am, the division between
tered on the sand and traditional frilly restaurant, bar and club blurs in Seminyak.
Balinese ceremonial umbrellas provid- Although it lacks any real hard-core clubs
ing more colour than actual shade. where you can greet the dawn (or vice versa),
stalwarts can head south to the rough edges
of Kuta and Legian in the wee hours.

Numerous bars popular with gay and
straight crowds line Jl Abimanyu, though
noise-sensitive locals complain if things get
too raucous.

JALAN ABIMANYU

Café Moka Ryoshi Seminyak House of Jazz JAZZ

CAFE (Jl Raya Seminyak 17; hfrom 8pm Mon, Wed & Fri)

(Map p76; %731 424; Jl Raya Seminyak) Enjoy The Seminyak branch of the local chain

French-style baked goods (fresh baguettes!) of Japanese restaurants has live jazz three

at this popular bakery and cafe. Many es- nights a week on an intimate stage under a

cape the heat and linger here for hours over traditionally thatched roof. Expect some of

little French treats. The bulletin board spills the best local and visiting talent.

over with notices for villa rentals. Bali Jo LIVE MUSIC

JALAN LAKSMANA (Map p76;JlAbimanyu; h8pm-3am) Simply fun –

Grocer & Grind CAFE albeit with falsies. Drag queens rock the

(Map p76; Jl Kayu Jati 3X; meals from 40,000Rp; house, the crowd lining the street and the

W) Keep your vistas limited and you might entire neighbourhood with songs amped to

think you’re just at a sleek Sydney cafe, but 11 nightly. Surprisingly intimate, it’s a good

look around and you’re unmistakeably in place to lounge about for a few.

Bali, albeit one of the trendiest bits. Classic Obsession MUSIC

sandwiches, salads and big breakfasts issue (Map p76; Jl Abimanyu; h6pm-2am) It’s rather

forth from the kitchen. Eat in the open air or plush and lush at this rather intimate venue.

choose air-con tables in the deli area. Latin, blues, soul and more add to the pink

Bali Bakery CAFE glow through the night.

(Map p76; Jl Laksmana; W) The best features of JP’s CAFE, BAR

the fashionable Seminyak Sq open-air mall (Map p76; www.jps-warungclub.com; Jl Abimanyu)

in the heart of Seminyak are this bakery’s From a modest open front to the street, JP’s

shady tables and long menu of baked goods, unfolds in a series of rooms that add up to

salads, sandwiches and other fine fare. A a quite large U-shaped lounge with a variety

good place to linger before heading back out of areas, from dining to dancing to chilling,

to shop. which can suit most moods. Live music can

Café Zucchini CAFE be Cuban, local rock or even a well-known

(Map p76; %736 633; Jl Laksmana 49) Hidden be- jazz flautist.

hind trees, shrubs and a vivid yellow-striped JALAN LAKSMANA

canopy, this Italian cafe is an ideal refuge Red Carpet Champagne Bar BAR

from the surrounding retail pressures. Juic- (Map p76; Jl Laksmana 42) The closest most will

es and various coffee drinks are the stars. come to posing for paparazzi is at this over-

There are a few substantial Italian mains if the-top glam bar on Seminyak’s couture

you need real sustenance. strip. Waltz the red carpet and toss back a

83

few namesake flutes while contemplating a Vivacqua ACCESSORIES
raw oyster and displays of frilly frocks. It’s
open to the street (but elevated dahling) so (Map p76; Jl Raya Seminyak 8) Bags of all shapes
you can observe the rabble.
and sizes, from stylish ones you’ll take to a

top Kerobokan restaurant so you can filch a

Ku De Ta CLUB breadstick to large ones ready for all manner

(Mapp76;JlLaksmana;h7am-1am) Ku De Ta teems of beach paraphernalia.

with Bali’s beautiful people (including those Luna Collection JEWELLERY KUTA & SEMINYAK S HE MO IPNPYI ANKG

whose status is purely aspirational). Scene- (Map p76; %0811 398 909; Jl Raya Seminyak)

sters perfect their ‘bored’ look over drinks dur- Handmade sterling-silver jewellery in a

ing the day, gazing at the fine stretch of surf range of designs. The local craftspeople

right out the back. Sunset brings out crowds, are quite creative and the mother-of-pearl

who snatch a cigar at the bar or dine on ec- works are museum quality.

lectic fare at tables. The music throbs with in- Sabbatha ACCESSORIES

creasing intensity through the night. (Map p76; %731 756; Jl Raya Seminyak 97) Mega-

Zappaz MUSIC bling! The glitter, glam and gold here are

(Map p76; %742 5534; Jl Laksmana; h11am- almost blinding and that’s just what cus-

midnight) Brit Norman Findlay tickles the tomers want. Opulent handbags and other

ivories nightly at this cheerful piano bar, sun-reflecting accessories are displayed like

where he’s been not-quite-perfecting his en- so much king’s ransom.

thusiastic playing for years and years. Why Beachwear

suffer abuse trying to croon your way to Blue Glue WOMEN’S CLOTHING

idol-dom on TV when you can simply sing (Map p76; Jl Raya Kerobokan) How best to show

at your own bar? off your form on the see-and-be-seen stretch-

7 Shopping es of Bali beach, especially in uberhip Semin-

Seminyak shops could occupy days of your yak? Try one of these trendy Bali-designed
holiday. Designer boutiques (Bali has a thriv-
ing fashion industry), funky stores, slick gal- bathing suits at this flash new boutique.
leries, wholesale emporiums and family-run
workshops are just some of the choices. Drifter BEACH GEAR

The best shopping starts on Jl Raya Semi- (Map p76; %733 274; Jl Laksmana 50) High-end
nyak (aka Jl Basangkasa) at about Bintang
Supermarket. The retail strip branches off surf fashion, gear, books and brands such as
into the prime real estate of Jl Laksmana
and upstart Jl Kayu Jati while continuing Obey and Rhythm.
north on Jl Raya Kerobokan into Kerobokan
itself. Of course, this being Bali, try not to Bookshops
get too overwhelmed by the glitz or you’ll
step into one of the yawning pavement cav- Periplus Bookshop BOOKS
erns (although Jl Raya Seminyak has been
given excellent new footpaths, which make (Map p76; Seminyak Sq) A large outlet of the is-
strolling a pleasure).
landwide chain of lavishly fitted bookshops.
If you need help navigating this retail
paradise, check out the ‘Retail Therapy’ Besides enough design books to have you fit-
column in the Bali Advertiser (www.bali
advertiser.biz). It’s written by the singularly ting out even your garage with ‘Bali Style’,
named Marilyn ([email protected]),
who brings a veteran retailer’s keen eye to there’s bestsellers, magazines and newspa-
the local scene. For advanced studies, she’s
available for consultations. pers.

Clothing

oDinda Rella WOMEN’S CLOTHING

(Map p76; %734 228; www.dindarella.com; Jl Raya
Seminyak) Upscale frocks for women are

designed and made on Bali by this much-

honoured brand. The place to get that sexy

little cocktail dress. There’s another location

on Jl Laksmana.

Milo’s CLOTHING

Accessories (Map p76; www.milos-bali.com; Jl Laksmana) The

Street Dogs ACCESSORIES legendary local designer of silk finery has

(Map p76; Jl Laksmana 60) Bracelets made with a lavish shop in the heart of designer row.

shells and resin as well as recycled brass de- Look for batik-bearing, eye-popping orchid

mand immediate wearing. patterns.

84

Lily Jean WOMEN’S CLOTHING premier shop. Her line of tropicalwear for
men and women combines cottons, silks
(Map p76; Jl Laksmana) Saucy knickers under- and embroidery. The results are elegant and
would pass for resortwear any place posh.
pin sexy women’s clothing that both dares

and flirts; most is Bali-made. This popular

shop has flash digs in fashion’s ground zero. Allegra WOMEN’S CLOTHING

Divine Diva WOMEN’S CLOTHING (Map p76; Jl Kayu Jati) Clothes that are very

KUTA & SEMINYAK S HE MO IPNPYI ANKG (Map p76; Jl Laksmana 1A) It’s like a Dove soap feminine yet also girly and quirky. The

commercial for real women in this shop, owner/designer is from Australia and this is

filled with Bali-made breezy styles for larger a top spot on the booming strip of Jl Kayu

figures. One customer told us: ‘It’s the es- Jati.

sence of agelessness.’ Lilla Lane SHOES

Paul Ropp CLOTHING (Map p76; Jl Raya Seminyak) High-end sandals

(Map p76; www.paulropp.com; Jl Laksmana) The in myriad forms; suitable for local use or

elegant main shop for one of Bali’s premier when you are weekending in the Hamptons

high-end fashion designers. Most goods are or Cannes.

made just a few kilometres away in the hills Le Toko CLOTHING

above Denpasar. And what goods they are – (Map p76; Jl Kunti) Stylish tropicalwear that

rich silks and cottons, vivid to the point of will fill in for all the things you couldn’t buy

gaudy, with hints of Ropp’s roots in the tie- before you left your frozen homeland.

dyed 1960s.

Nico Perez MENSWEAR Coco Rose CLOTHING

(Map p76; Jl Laksmana) The shop of a French (Map p76; Jl Kayu Jati) On an up-and-coming

designer based on Bali; look for fine linen strip of shops, this boutique has ultracasual

menswear in neutrals and colours. resortwear; think the sorts of sundresses

you yank on over your bikini so you can go

Samsara CLOTHING parading through the lobby.

(Map p76;Jl Raya Seminyak) True Balinese-made Inti WOMEN’S CLOTHING

textiles are increasingly rare as production (Map p76; Jl Raya Seminyak 11) Shoppers tired

moves to Java and other places with cheaper of pawing through racks of size-2 clothes

labour. But the local family behind this tidy will sigh with relief at this shop filled with

shop still sources hand-painted batik for a resortwear aimed at mature women.

range of exquisite casualwear.

Biasa CLOTHING Bamboo Blonde WOMEN’S CLOTHING

(Map p76; www.biasabali.com; Jl Raya Seminyak 36) (Map p76; %780 5919; Jl Laksmana 61) Frilly,

This is Bali-based designer Susanna Perini’s sporty or sexy frocks and more formal

wear tempt from this cheery designer

boutique.

WRONG NUMBER? Galleries

Bali’s landline phone numbers (those Theater Art Gallery PUPPETS
with area codes that include %0361,
across the south and Ubud) are being (Map p76; Jl Raya Seminyak) Specialises in vin-
changed on an ongoing basis through
%2014. To accommodate increased tage and reproduction puppets used in
demand for lines, a digit is being added
to the start of the existing six- or seven- traditional Balinese theatre. Just browsing
digit phone number. So %0361-761
xxxx might become %0361-4761 xxxx. the animated faces peering back at you is a
The schedule and plans for the new
numbers change regularly, but usually delight.
you’ll hear a recording first in Bahasa
Indonesian and then in English telling Biasa Art Space ART
you what digit to add to the changed
number. (Map p76; %744 2902; www.biasaart.com; Jl Raya

Seminyak 34) This large, airy and chilly gal-

lery is owned by Biasa designer Susanna

Perini. Changing exhibits highlight bold

works.

Kody & Ko ART

(Map p76; Jl Kayu Cendana) The polychromatic

Buddhas in the window set the tone for this

vibrant shop of art and decorator items.

8 Getting There & Around 85

There’s a large attached gallery with regular Metered taxis are easily hailed. A trip from the
exhibitions. airport in an official airport taxi costs about
80,000Rp; to the airport, about half that. You
Kemarin Hari Ini GALLERY can beat the traffic, save the ozone and have a
good stroll by walking south down the beach;
(Map p76; %735 262; Jl Raya Seminyak) Glass ob- Legian is only about 15 minutes away.

jects created with laminated Japanese paper

sparkle in the light at this airy gallery. Primi-

tive works mix with the starkly modern. KUTA & SEMINYAK K8 E R O B O K A N

Housewares Kerobokan

oAshitaba HANDICRAFTS %0361

(Map p76; Jl Raya Seminyak 6) Tenganan, the Continuing seamlessly north from Semin-
yak, Kerobokan combines some of Bali’s best
Aga village of east Bali, produces the intri- restaurants, lavish lifestyles and still more
beach. Hotels are upstaged by villas, which
cate and beautiful rattan items sold here. sprout from the ground like a bad rash. At
times the mix of commerce and rice fields
Containers, bowls, purses and more (from can be jarring.

US$5) display the very fine weaving.

Folk Art Gallery HOMEWARES

(Map p76; %738 113; Jl Laksmana) Tribal and

folk art from across Asia are arrayed attrac- 1 Sights

tively in this cute little boutique. Unless you are eating, drinking, shopping

Les Enfants du Paradis GIFTS, BEAUTY or sleeping, there is little reason to visit
Kerobokan, with one exception: Batubelig
(Map p76; www.enfants-paradis.com; Jl Raya Semi- Beach, which continues the sweep of sand
from Kuta in the south. Wave-tossed, it is
nyak) A beautiful shop filled with interest-
still often uncrowded; a collection of rustic
ing gift and personal items. The Japanese-
beach cafes was bulldozed in 2012 and the
influenced stationery may encourage you to
area is ripe for development.
actually write something that doesn’t have
One notable landmark is the notorious
an @ in the address, and the organic cos- Kerobokan jail (Map p76), home to prisoners
both infamous and unknown.
metics are dreamy.

St Isador TEXTILES

(Map p76; %738 836; Jl Laksmana 44) The work-

shops upstairs spew forth lovely bed linens, 2 Activities

pillows and other items made of fabrics im- Amo Beauty Spa

ported from across Asia. SPA

8 Information (Map p76; %275 3337; www.amospa.com; 100 Jl
Petitenget; massage from 180,000Rp; h9am-9pm)
Seminyak shares many services with Kuta and
Legian. With some of Asia’s top models lounging

Dangers & Annoyances about it feels like you’ve stepped into the
Seminyak is generally more hassle-free than
Kuta and Legian. But it’s worth reading up on the studios of Vogue. Besides massages, other
warnings, especially those regarding surf and
water pollution . services range from hair care to pedicures

Medical Services and unisex waxing.
Kimia Pharma (%916 6509; Jl Raya Kerobokan
140; h24hr) At a major crossroads, this phar- Spa Bonita SPA
macy, part of Bali’s best chain of pharmacies,
has a full range of prescription medications. (Map p76; %731 918; www.bonitabali.com; Jl Pe-

Money titenget 2000X; massage from 100,000Rp; h9am-
ATMs can be found along all the main roads.
9pm) Part of the delightful Waroeng Bonita,
Post
Postal agency (%761 592; Jl Raya Seminyak this male-oriented spa has a range of ser-
17, Bintang Supermarket)
vices in a simple, elegant setting.

Umalas Stables HORSE RIDING

(Map p90; %731 402; www.balionhorse.com; Jl

Lestari 9X; beach rides from US$72) Pick your

pony in this elegant compound set among

the paddies. It has a stable of 30 horses and

ponies, and offers 30-minute rice-field tours

and two- and three-hour beach rides (a trip

highlight for many tourists). Lessons in be-

ginner to advanced equestrian events such

86

as dressage and show jumping can also be restaurant in a beautiful bamboo pavilion
arranged. that is ably presided over by Pascal and Pika
Chevillot. Open-air tables overlook a private
KUTA & SEMINYAK KS LEEREOPBIONKGA N 4 Sleeping rice field that is patrolled by Sardine’s own
flock of ducks. The inventive bar is a must
Kerobokan is villa country, with walled and open to 1am. The menu changes to re-
developments simmering away amid rice flect what’s fresh. Booking is vital.
fields. See p365 for considerations in rent-
ing a villa. oBiku

Taman Ayu Cottage HOTEL $$ FUSION $$

(Map p76; %730 111; www.tamanayucottage.com; (Map p76; %857 0888; www.bikubali.com; Jl Pe-

Jl Petitenget; r US$50-100; aiWs) In a fast- titenget; meals 40,000-120,000Rp) Housed in

growing part of Kerobokan sits this great- an old shop that used to sell antiques, Biku

value hotel. The cottage in the name here is retains the timeless vibe of its predeces-

a bit of a misnomer, as most of the rooms are sor. The menu combines Indonesian, other

in two-storey blocks around a pool shaded Asian and Western influences; book for

by mature trees. Everything is a bit frayed lunch or dinner. Dishes, from the exquisite

around the edges, but all is forgotten when breakfasts and the elegant local choices to

one of the hotel’s pet rabbits romps over to Bali’s best burger, are artful and delicious.

say hello. There’s a long list of teas and myriad re-

freshing cocktails. Many swoon at the sight

Grand Balisani Suites HOTEL $$ of the cake table.

(Map p90; %730 550; www.balisani.com; Jl Batube- Waroeng Bonita INDONESIAN $$

lig; r US$100-160; aiWs) Straddling the (Map p76; www.bonitabali.com; Jl Petitenget 2000X;

border between midrange and top end, meals 70,000-200,000Rp) Balinese dishes such

this elaborately carved complex is right on as ikan rica-rica (fresh fish in a spicy green-

ever-more-popular Batubelig Beach. The 96 chilli sauce) are the specialities at this cute

rooms are large and have standard teak fur- little place with tables set out under the

niture plus terraces. trees. There’s a breezy style that attracts

W Retreat & Spa people every night but on certain nights

Bali – Seminyak RESORT $$$ Bonita positively heaves because of the

(Map p76; %473 8106; www.starwoodhotels.com; drag shows starring everyone from visiting

Jl Petitenget; r from US$300; aiWs) The big queens to the busboy.

flash on Kerobokan’s beach is this huge Cafe Degan ASIAN $$

new resort under the guise of the trendy (Map p76; Jl Petitenget 9; meals 90,000-160,000Rp)

W brand. The usual too-cute-for-comfort The young couple running this cultured

vibe is at work (how ’bout an Extreme Wow little warung have created a winner. The

Suite?) but the location on a wild stretch menu veers towards Indonesian but overall

of sand and the views are hard to quibble features dishes from the region you don’t

with. Stylish and hip bars and restaurants often find, such as daging sambal hijau

abound. (spicy beef with green chillies). A small air-

The rooms all have balconies, but not con bakery has an array of delectables for

all have ocean views. Amble down the long dessert.

entrance lane and have a gander, noting

that this is the best way to the beach in the Warung Kolega INDONESIAN $

vicinity. (Map p76; Jl Petitenget; meals 25,000Rp; h11am-

5 Eating 3pm) A Javanese halal classic. Choose your

Kerobokan boasts some of Bali’s best restau- rice (we prefer the fragrant yellow), then

rants, whether top end or budget. pick from a delectable array that includes

tempeh in sweet chilli sauce, sambal terung

JALAN PETITENGET (spicy eggplant), ikan sambal (spicy grilled

fish) and other daily specials. Most of the la-

oSardine SEAFOOD $$$ bels are in English.

(Map p76; %738 202; www.sardinebali.com; Jl Pe- Tulip TURKISH $$

titenget 21; meals US$20-50) Seafood fresh from (Map p76; %785 8585; www.tulipbali.com; Jl Pe-

the famous Jimbaran market is the star at titenget 69; meals 60,000-200,000Rp) From a

this elegant yet intimate, casual yet stylish long meze menu of small plates with Medi-

87

terranean flair to a more complex dinner KEROBOKAN’S FAVOURITE KUTA & SEMINYAK KE AETRIONBGO K A N
menu of grilled meats and seafood, Tulip has WARUNG
a wide range of fresh and appealing choices.
The open-air dining area is stylish and looks Although seemingly upscale, Ker-
over a rice paddy. There’s live music and obokan is blessed with many a fine
DJs many nights and the bar menu includes place for a local meal. One of the very
shishas. favourites is Warung Sulawesi (Map
p76; Jl Petitenget; meals from 25,000Rp;
Sarong FUSION $$ h10am-6pm). Here you’ll find a table
in a quiet family compound and enjoy
(Map p76; %737 809; www.sarongbali.com; Jl fresh Balinese and Indonesian food
served in classic warung style. Choose
Petitenget 19X; meals US$10-30; hnoon-10pm) a rice, then pick from a captivating
array of dishes that are always at their
The food is almost as magical as the setting peak at noon. The long beans – yum!

at this top-end, high-concept restaurant. 1,000,000Rp) The original Mozaic restaurant
in Ubud is renowned for its fanatical atten-
Largely open to the evening breezes, the tion to detail and that tradition continues
at this beautiful beachside restaurant. No
dining room has plush furniture and gleam- expense is spared (certainly not the custom-
er’s) in a wide-ranging menu that focuses on
ing place settings that twinkle in the candle- seasonal ingredients and fresh seafood. A
casual lounge set around a pool has a long
light. But opt for tables out the back where and pricey drinks and tapas menu (which
includes a ‘foie gras corner’).
you can let the stars do the twinkling. The

food spans the globe; small plates are popu-

lar with those wishing to pace an evening

enjoying the commodious bar.

Bali Catering Co BAKERY $

(Map p76; %732 115; Jl Petitenget 45; snacks from

30,000Rp; a) Like a gem store of treats, this

upscale deli-bakery serves an array of fan-

ciful little delights. Many spend all day bat-

tling the temptation of the mango ice cream;

others succumb to the croissants.

Métis FUSION $$$ L’Assiette FRENCH $$

(Map p76; %737 888; www.metisbali.com; Jl Peti- (Map p76; Jl Raya Mertanadi 29; meals 50,000-

tenget 6; meals US$15-40) High-profile – and 100,000Rp; W) The huge quiet garden behind

not just because of the huge building – this airy cafe is the perfect place to enjoy a

Métis aims to be one of Bali’s finest restau- salad nicoise or any of the many other fresh

rants. It certainly has the provenance, with and tasty classic French-cafe fare here. Per-

roots in the vaunted old Cafe Warisan (the haps a steak frites or a terrine will strike

current incarnation under that name bears your fancy. If not, there are Asian-accented

no resemblance). Set ostentatiously in a sur- dishes as well.

viving rice field, the restaurant and its care- Naughty Nuri’s INDONESIAN $$

fully prepared cuisine work best when filled (Map p90; Jl Batubelig 41; meals from 50,000Rp)

with buzzing crowds – think high season. This large Kerobokan cafe avoids the over-

ELSEWHERE IN KEROBOKAN hype of the Ubud original by delivering solid

oWarung Sobat SEAFOOD $ fare and the trademark kickass martinis. As

(Map p76; %738 922; Jl Batubelig 11; meals 50,000- you’d expect, ribs are grilling on open coals

150,000Rp) Set in a sort of bungalow-style up front but whereas the main location of-

brick courtyard, this old-fashioned restau- ten runs short of tables, this commodious

rant (with bargain prices) excels at fresh outpost nearly always has room for you to

Balinese seafood with an Italian accent enjoy a cold Bintang or something more fun.

(lots of garlic!). First-time visitors feel like Fruit Market MARKET $

they’ve made a discovery, and if you have (Map p76; cnr Jl Raya Kerobokan & Jl Gunung Tang-

the sensational lobster platter (a bargain at kuban Perahu; h7am-7pm) Bali’s numerous cli-

350,000Rp for two; order in advance), you mate zones (hot and humid near the ocean,

will too. Book. cool and dry up the volcano slopes) mean

Mozaic Beach Club FUSION $$$ that pretty much any fruit or vegetable can be

(Map p76; %473 5796; www.mozaic-beachclub. grown within the island’s small confines. Look

com; Jl Pantai Batubelig; meals 300,000- for the full range at the many vendor tables

KUTA & SEMINYAK EKNE RT OE RBTOAKIANNM E N T88

SHOPPING SAFARI

East of Seminyak and Kerobokan, a series of streets is lined with all manner of in-
teresting shops selling and manufacturing housewares, baubles, fabric and other
intriguing items. Head east of Kerobokan jail for about 2km on Jl Gunung Tangkuban
Perahu and then turn south on – get this – a street with the same name (this is Bali,
after all).

This particular Jl Gunung Tangkuban Perahu has been called ‘the street of amaze-
ment’ by a shopaholic friend. It meanders south, ending at Jl Gunung Soputan, which
has shops in both directions, and then heads east where it ends at the intersection with
Jl Sunset and Jl Kunti.

Steven’s (%733 435; Jl Gunung Tangkuban Perahu 199) Dusty treasures from across
Indonesia.

Heider (%0819 1644 7400; Jl Gunung Tangkuban Perahu 100) Vintage bags from Lombok;
huge collection of primitive-ish carvings.

IQI (%733 181; Jl Gunung Tangkuban Perahu 274) Placemats, runners and other woven
items made here; outfit your table for about US$5.

Wijaya Kusuma Brass (%0813 3870 4597; Jl Gunung Soputan) Brass accessories for
furniture and your home. Who doesn’t want to grab a frog pull to access their undies?

Matrái Shop (%729 813; Jl Gunung Atena) Smart little shop where intricate containers
are made out of wire and beads. Exquisite.

here, including oddball fruits you’ll have at first looks like a candy store. Elaborately
never seen before (try a nubby mangosteen). carved wooden buttons are 700Rp. Kids may
have to be bribed to leave.
3 Entertainment
Bathe BEAUTY, HOMEWARES
Some of Kerobokan’s trendier restaurants,
such as Sardine and Tulip, have stylish bar (Map p76; Jl Petitenget 100X) Double-down on
areas that stay open late.
your villa’s romance with the handmade

candles and bath salts at this shop that

oPotato Head CLUB evokes the feel of a 19th-century French dis-

(Map p76; Jl Petitenget; W) Kerobokan’s popular pensary. You can’t help but smile at the tub

beach club is south Bali’s grooviest. Wander filled with rubber ducks.

up off the sand or follow a long drive off the Namu CLOTHING

main road and you’ll discover a truly capti- (Map p76; Jl Petitenget) Designer Paola Zan-

vating creation on a grand scale. The clever canaro creates comfy and casual resortwear

design is striking and you’ll find much to for men and women that doesn’t take a holi-

amuse, from an enticing pool to a cafe and a day from style. The fabrics are lusciously tac-

swanky restaurant. tile; many hand-painted silk.

7 Shopping Horn VINTAGE

Look for boutiques interspersed with the (Map p76; Jl Petitenget) Vintage clothing for
trendy restaurants on Jl Petitenget. Jl Raya
Kerobokan, extending north from Semin- all ages is curated with a kooky sensibility
yak, has interesting shops primarily selling
decorator items and housewares. Wander Jl in this large and engaging shop. The classic
Raya Mertanadi for an ever-changing line-
up of homewares shops, many of them more silks are irresistible and the accessories fun.
factory than showroom.
Ganesha Bookshop BOOKS

(Map p76; Jl Petitenget) In a corner of the

fabulous Biku restaurant, this tiny branch

of Bali’s best bookshop up in Ubud has all

oJJ Bali Button manner of local and literary treats.

ARTS & CRAFTS 2nd Skin CLOTHING

(Map p76; Jl Gunung Tangkuban Perahu) Zillions (Map p76; www.2ndskinonline.com; Jl Petitenget)

of beads and buttons made from shells, plas- Handbags, jackets, miniskirts, sandals and

tic, metal and more are displayed in what

89

much more fill this rich-smelling leather development, remains fairly uncrowded. Ker-
boutique. But the real forte here is the cus- obokan morphs into Canggu, while neigh-
tom design and tailoring. Let your imagina- bouring Echo Beach is a big construction
tion for all things leather run wild. site. Cloistered villas lure the well-heeled who
whisk past stooped rice farmers in air-con
Hobo HOMEWARES comfort. Traffic may be the ultimate com-
moner’s revenge: road building is a decade
(Map p76; Jl Raya Kerobokan) Elegance mixes or two behind settlement. See the boxed text,
p92 for details of the area’s sandy pleasures.
with quirky at this enticing shop filled with KUTA & SEMINYAK N8 O R T H O F K E R O B O K A N

gifts and housewares, most of which can slip

right into your carry-on bag. This part of Jl

Raya Kerobokan abounds in shops worth CANGGU
More a state of mind than a place, Canggu
browsing. is the catch-all name given to the villa-filled
stretch of land between Kerobokan and
Pourquoi Pas ANTIQUES Echo Beach. It is getting ever-more trendy
cafes, restaurants and places to stay. It in-
(Map p76; Jl Raya Mertanadi) Owned by the cludes many beaches such as Berewa and
Batu Bolong (and which are referred to by
French family behind L’Assiette, this adjoin- some generically as ‘Canggu Beach’).

ing antique store is filled with treasures from If you need time away from the sand,
some of Bali’s best artists show at Sukyf
across the archipelago and Southeast Asia. Arch & Art (Map p90; www.sukyf.com; Jl Subak
Sari 4; h10am-6pm), an attractive gallery in
Lio HOMEWARES the middle of ever-expanding Canggu, not
(Map p76; Jl Raya Kerobokan) A minor empire far from the Canggu Club.
with shops all along this stretch of road.
2 Activities
Housewares, rattan antiques, reproductions
Very popular for surfing, the Canggu area
and more. beaches draw a lot of locals and expat resi-
dents on weekends. Access to parking areas
Nôblis DECOR usually costs 2000Rp and there are cafes and
warung for those who work up an appetite
(Map p76; %0815 5800 2815; Jl Raya Mertanadi 54) in the water or watching others in the water.

Feel like royalty here with regal bits of decor

from around the globe.

You Like Lamp HOMEWARES

(Map p76; %733 755; Jl Raya Mertanadi) Why yes,

we do. All manner of endearing little paper

lamps – many good for tea lights – are sold

here cheap by the bagful. Don’t see what you Desa Seni

want? The staff working away on the floor YOGA

will rustle it up immediately. (Map p90; %844 6392; www.desaseni.com; Jl Kayu

Putih 13; classes from 120,000Rp; hvaries) Desa

8 Getting There & Around Seni comprises classic wooden homes that

Taxis from the airport will cost at least have been transformed into a luxurious ho-
100,000Rp. In either direction at rush hour the
trip may verge on an hour. Note also that Jl Raya tel. It is also renowned for its wide variety
Kerobokan can come to a fume-filled stop for
extended periods. of yoga classes, which are offered daily and

The plethora of villas can stymie even the have a large following among local expats
saviest of cab drivers so it’s helpful to have some
sort of map or directions when you first arrive and nonguests.
and for forays out and about during your stay.
Taxis can be hailed along the main roads. Canggu Club SPORTING CLUB

Although the beach may seem tanalisingly (Map p90; %844 6385; www.cangguclub.com; Jl
close, few roads or gang actually reach the sand
from the east. Pantai Berawa; day pass adult/family US$60/85; W)

Bali’s moneyed elite shuttlecock themselves

silly at the Canggu Club, a new-age version

of something you’d expect to find during the

Raj. The vast, perfectly virescent lawn is man-

icured for croquet. Get sweaty with tennis,

squash, polo, cricket, the spa or the 25m pool.

North of Kerobokan Many villa rentals include guest passes here.

%0361 4 Sleeping

Growth is marching north and west along oHotel Tugu Bali HOTEL $$$
the coast, much of it anchored by the end-
less swath of beach, which, despite rampant (Map p90; %731 701; www.tuguhotels.com; Jl Pantai

Batu Bolong; r US$200-500; aiWs) Right at

90

Canggu & Echo Beach e# 0 500 m
0 0.25 miles
AB
CD

611 Jl SubakCatur
ÿ# ÿ# Jl Nelayan
Echo 5 1
1 Beach Ù# Jl RayaSemat
Jl Pantai Berawa
KUTA & SEMINYAK N8 O R T H O F K E R O B O K A N 15 ú#ú# 8 ÿ# Jl Raya M ertanadiCANGGU
13 9 ÿ# 14 #ú
12
ÿ#
Batu BBoeloanc1hg7Ù##úæ# Ù# 1 â# Ø# 2
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Batumejan

Nelayan SEMER

Beach æ# Pura Dalem
PrancakÙ# Prancak 18 #ú
KUWUM Ø# 4
Beach
UMALA
2 444Beachÿ# 10 6 ÿ# KANGIN 2

Berewa Ù# 3 Ø#
Teluk
TangJkIuGbaunnuPnegrahu
4464Kuta
Seminyak & Kerobokan

16 #ú 7 Map (p76)
ÿ# KEROBOKAN

Batubelig Ù#
Beach
44446443 PJeItRitaeynaget
3
4A B C D

Canggu & Echo Beach

æ Sights 9 Hotel Tugu Bali ........................................ A1
1 Sukyf Arch & Art ..................................... C2 10 Legong Keraton .......................................B2
11 Pondok Wisata
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
2 Canggu Club ............................................ C2 Nyoman ................................................. A1
3 Desa Seni ................................................. C2 12 Villa Serenity ............................................ B1
4 Umalas Stables ....................................... D2
ú Eating
ÿ Sleeping 13 Beach House............................................ A1
5 Canggu Mart............................................. A1 14 Green Ginger............................................ C1
6 Desa Seni ................................................. C2 15 Mandira Cafe............................................ A1
7 Grand Balisani Suites............................. C3 16 Naughty Nuri's.........................................C3
8 Green Room ............................................. A1 17 Om Cafe.................................................... A1
18 Trattoria....................................................C2

Batu Bolong Beach, this is an exquisite hotel Desa Seni HOTEL $$$
surrounded by rice fields and beach. It blurs
the boundaries between a museum and a (Map p90; %844 6392; www.desaseni.com; Jl Kayu
gallery, especially the Walter Spies and Le
Mayeur Pavilions, where memorabilia from Putih 13; r US$150-400; aiWs) One person
the artists’ lives decorates the rooms. There’s
a spa and customised dining options. described this place as like a hippie Four

The stunning collection of antiques and Seasons, and that’s not far from the truth.
artwork begins in the lobby and extends
throughout the hotel. Even by day, candles Desa Seni bills itself as a ‘village resort’,
twinkle amid the flowing fabrics in the
breezy public areas. The cooking classes and what a village it is. Ten classic wood-
(from US$100) are quite luxe.
en homes up to 220 years old have been

brought to the site from across Indonesia

and turned into luxurious quarters. Guests

enjoy a menu of organic and healthy cuisine

plus yoga courses.

91

SVilla Serenity GUESTHOUSE $ dishes with Asian accents. It’s a fine spot
to while away an afternoon and a cut above
(Map p90; www.balivillaserenity.com; Jl Nelayan; r your typical beach warung.

150,000-500,000Rp; aWs) Funky in the best 8 Getting There & Around

way, this hotel is an oasis among the sterility You can reach the Canggu area by road from the
south by taking Jl Batubelig west in Kerobokan
of walled villas. Rooms range from shared- almost to the beach and then veering north
past various huge villas and expat shops along a
bath singles to quite nice doubles with curvaceous road. It’s much longer to go up and
around via the traffic-clogged Tanah Lot road.
air-con and bathrooms. The grounds are ap- An ever-growing number of tiny lanes thread KUTA & SEMINYAK N8 O R T H O F K E R O B O K A N
haphazardly through the rice fields and villas,
pealingly eccentric; the beach a five-minute allowing you to link up with the beaches.

walk. There is a cafe as well as a huge DVD Getting to the Canggu area can cost 70,000Rp
or more by taxi from Kuta or Seminyak. Don’t
library. There is yoga and you can hire surf- expect to find taxis cruising anywhere, although
any business can call you one.
boards, bikes, cars and more.

Legong Keraton HOTEL $$

(Map p90; %730 280; www.legongkeratonhotel.
com; r US$100-210; ais) Right on the quiet

sands of Berewa Beach, the well-run 40-

room Legong Keraton is the perfect place for

a corporate retreat. The grounds are shaded ECHO BEACH
One of Bali’s most popular surf breaks, Echo
by palms and the pool borders the beach. Beach has reached critical mass in populari-
ty and is quite the scene with tourists, expats
The best rooms are in bungalow units fac- and locals, who come down to wet their feet
at the often spectacular sunsets. Meanwhile
ing the surf. huge villa developments are filling the area.
If it seems a mite crowded right at the cafes,
Green Room HOTEL $$ walk 200m along the beach in either direc-
tion for solitude.
(Map p90; %923 2215; www.thegreenroombali.
A local taxi cooperative has taxis waiting
com; Jl Subak Catur; r US$60-140; Ws) Popu- to shuttle you back to Seminyak and the
south for about 70,000Rp.
lar with surfers, the Green Room exudes

hippie chic. Lounge on the 2nd-floor ve-

randa and check out the waves (and villa

construction) in the distance. The 14 rooms

are comfy and breezy with a bit of a flash-

packer vibe.

5 Eating 4 Sleeping & Eating

oGreen Ginger ASIAN $ Cafes from basic to vaunted front some of

(Map p90; Jl Pantai Berawa; meals from 30,000Rp; Bali’s most reliable surf breaks. Enjoy a bev-

v) Art, a profusion of flowering plants and erage while critiquing the board-riders, or

eccentric bits of furniture mark this cool lit- take the plunge yourself.

tle boho cafe on fast-changing strip in Cang- Canggu Mart GUESTHOUSE $

gu. The menu has fresh and tasty vegetarian (Map p90; %824 7183; Jl P Batu Mejan 88; r 150,000-

dishes from across Asia. 350,000Rp) About 300m from Echo Beach,

Trattoria ITALIAN $$ this basic place has four simple yet very comfy

(Map p90; Jl Pantai Berawa; meals 90,000- rooms (with terraces) behind a convenience

160,000Rp) The latest outlet of this Semin- store, a key resource for cheap, cold beer.

yak original anchors a collection of Mandira Cafe CAFE $

restaurants surrounding a pleasant court- (Map p90; Jl Pura Batu Mejan; meals 25,000-

yard at the Canggu Sq complex in the cen- 50,000Rp; W) Although Echo Beach is rapidly

tre of Canggu. Trattoria has a large menu of going upscale, this classic surfers’ dive has

classic Italian fare and pizzas; other adjoin- battered picnic tables with front-row seats

ing venues include sushi and a fine coffee for surfing action. Quaff a cheap Bintang

house. while you Instagram the best action out on

Om Cafe INTERNATIONAL $ the breaks. The timeless menu includes jaf-

(Map p90; Jl Pantai Batu Bolong; mains from fles, banana pancakes, club sandwiches and

30,000Rp; W) Everything seems to be made smoothies.

of bamboo here – except the food. While the Beach House CAFE $$

surf booms right in front of you, you can (Map p90; Jl Pura Batu Mejan; dishes 30,000-

choose from a sprightly selection of fresh 100,000Rp; W) Face the Echo Beach waves

9 2 START BATUBELIG e# 0 1 km
0 0.5 miles
BEACH
FINISH ECHO BEACH Jl Pantai Batu Bolong
Jl Nelayan
6DISTANCE 4KM JJll PRaaymaeliSseanmAatgung

–DURATION ONE TWO

HOURS

#7
KUTA & SEMINYAK N8 O R T H O F K E R O B O K A N
#6 CANGGU
#5

#4

Teluk Kuta #3

Walking Tour 4#2 44
444
Canggu Beach Walk
#Ù#1
Walking the sands of the Canggu area
beaches you’ll cover stretches of empty 444
sand and ford a few streams with only the
roar of the surf for company. A few villages, Almost 1km further on you’ll come to an-
temples, expat villas and cafes provide inter- other (shallow) water crossing at 4 Prancak
est away from the water. Be aware you’ll get Beach that also marks the large temple com-
wet on this walk; have waterproof bags for plex of Pura Dalem Prancak. A beach vendor
everything. or two may offer drinks.
Start this walk at 1 Batubelig Beach.
Look northwest along the beach and you can A collection of fishing boats and huts
see the developments at Echo Beach in the marks the very mellow stretch of sand at
distance. The biggest obstacle on this entire 5 Nelayan Beach that fronts villa-land just
walk is only about 500m from the start. inland.
The 2 river and lagoon here flow into the
ocean, often at a depth of 1m but at times The beach at 6 Batu Bolong boasts the
not at all. However, after rains it may be large Pura Batumejan complex with a striking
much deeper. In this case, take the fun little pagoda-like temple. There is surfboard hire
footbridge over the lagoon to Warung Agung (100,000Rp per day), impromptu lessons,
Kayu Putih, which has a basic menu and a some groovy cafes and a vendor 200m fur-
phone for a taxi. ther on with comfy loungers.
Greyish 3 Berewa Beach has a couple
of surfer cafes by the pounding sea; the grey Construction along the shore means
volcanic sand here slopes steeply into foam- you’ve reached 7 Echo Beach, where cafes
ing water. offer relaxation after your adventurous walk.
A growing flock of stores means you can
replace any clothes that are drenched be-
yond repair, otherwise retrieve your camera
from its waterproof bag and nab shots of the
popular surf break.

93

from stylish loungers or chill on a variety of of any walk that followed the vast sweep of KUTA & SEMINYAK N8 O R T H O F K E R O B O K A N
couches and picnic tables. Enjoy the menu of
breakfasts, salads, grilled fare and tasty dishes sand that begins near the airport.
such as calamari with aioli. On Sunday nights
it offers a hugely popular outdoor barbecue. Once you’ve found it, why leave? The
friendly guys at Pondok Wisata Nyoman
PERERENAN BEACH (Map p90; %0812 390 6900; pondoknyoman@
Yet to be found by the right developer, Per- yahoo.com; Jl Raya Pantai Pererenan; r 200,000-
erenan Beach is for you if you want your 500,000Rp) have four simple rooms (al-
sand windswept and your waves unridden. though the bathrooms have a certain col-
It’s an easy 300m further on from Echo
Beach across sand and rock formations (or ourful flair) just behind the beach. There are
over 1km by road). This also marks the end
also a couple of good cafes here that don’t

have the mobs of Echo Beach but still enjoy

sweeping surf views.

South Bali & the Islands

Bukit Peninsula............... 96 Why Go?
Jimbaran ......................... 96
Central Bukit................... 99 You won’t have seen Bali if you haven’t fully explored south
Balangan Beach.............. 99 Bali. The island’s capital, Denpasar, sprawls in all directions
Bingin ............................. 101 from the centre and is a vibrant place, offering traditional
Padang Padang............. 102 markets, glitzy malls, great eating and plenty of Balinese his-
Ulu Watu & Around ....... 103 tory and culture, even as it threatens to absorb the tourist
Ungasan & Around........ 104 hubs of Seminyak, Kuta and Sanur.
Nusa Dua....................... 105
Tanjung Benoa ...............107 The Bukit Peninsula (the southern part of south Bali) has
Sanur.............................. 110 multiple personalities. In the east, Tanjung Benoa is a beach-
Pulau Serangan.............. 118 fronted playground of modest resorts while Nusa Dua at-
Denpasar........................ 118 tempts to bring order out of chaos with an insulated pasture
Nusa Lembongan...........127 of five-star hotels. On the west side, however, is where the
Nusa Ceningan ..............133 real action is. Small coves and beaches are dotted with edgy
Nusa Penida...................133 little guesthouses and five-star eco-resorts. The vibe, derived
from the fab surfing around Ulu Watu, is funky and free.

To the east, the haunted island of Nusa Penida dominates
the horizon, but in its lee you’ll find Nusa Lembongan, the
ultimate island escape from the island of Bali.

Best Places to Eat When to Go

» Bumbu Bali (p109) The best time to visit south Bali is outside the high season,
» Cak Asm (p123) which is July, August and the weeks around Christmas and
» Teba Mega Cafe (p98) New Year’s Day. Visitor numbers spike and rooms from
» Manik Organik (p116) Bingin to Tanjung Benoa and Sanur to Nusa Lembongan
may be filled. Many prefer April to June and September
Best Places to when the crowds are manageable. Surfing is best at the
Stay world-class breaks along the west coast of the Bukit Penin-
sula from February to November, with May to August being
» Hotel La Taverna (p113) especially good.
» Indiana Kenanga (p129)
» Temple Lodge (p101)
» Alila Villas Ulu Watu
(p104)

Ù#

Pererenan Ù# BaliGOarrcdheidnæ# #\ Ketewel e# 0 6 km
Beach Ù# Padang Galak 0 4 miles

#\ Seseh #\ Kerobokan Beach

\# Batu Mejan #æ#^#5 Denpasar Pura Dalem
Echo Beach Ù# #\Canggu

\# Berewa Sanur #æ#4 f# Boats to :: Penetaran Ped #\ Sampalan
Abiantimbul
\#Tegalwagni Nusa Nusa LeLmembobonnggaann#æ##\6#\:Ju:ng:utb:atTuoy#\apakeÞ#h #\ Ped Selat
#\Petitenget\# Lombok

#\Seminyak Lembongan Nusa
Ceningan
Legian Beach Ù# \# Legian Pesanggaran Selat #\ Sakti #\ Karangsari
Kuta Beach Ù# #\ Kuta Badung Crystal Ù#
\# \# Suwung Bay Beach #\ Klumpu

Dukuh \# \# Ponjok R #æ#7 Nusa \#Suana
æ# Turtle Conservation
Tuban & Bukit Mundi Pendia

Teluk Ngurah Rai #\ Benoa Pulau Education Center (529m) #\ Semaya
Kuta Airport Harbour Serangan
–# f# Batumadeg #\ Pejukatan #\

Teluk Teluk \# Benoa #\Tanglad
Jimbaran Benoa

Jimbaran BeachÙ##æ#1 Jl Ngurah

Balangan Jimbaran Rai Bypass

DreamBlaenadcÙ#h #Ù#2 Jl Ulu Watu Bualu #\
Garuda Wisnu #\ Nusa Dua
Bingin Ù# Cenggiling ÷# Kencana Cultural
Padang Beach Ù# Park Bukit
Pantai Ù# Pecatu #\
Indah Peninsula
Suluban #\ Ungasan
#æ#3
Ulu Ulu Watu #\ Pecatu Kutuh
Watu Þ##\
#\

Pura Dalem Þ# Pura Gunung INDIAN
Penetaran Ped Payung OCEAN

South Bali & the Islands Highlights

1 Picking a lobster for 2 Perching precariously on a 4 Watching from Sanur 5 Savouring the best US$2 7 Diving from Nusa Penida
the grill at one of the many bamboo stilt bar at Balangan (p110) as a full moon climbs meal you’ve ever had in (p133), where you can swim
beachfront seafood joints in Beach (p99) over Nusa Penida, casting Denpasar (p123) with manta rays and other
Jimbaran (p97) a mysterious glow over large fish
3 Surfing Ulu Watu (p103), everything 6 Escaping a small island
where boards break on the (Bali) for a funkier, smaller
world-class breaks one: Nusa Lembongan (p127)
SOUTH BALI & THE ISLANDS 95

96

BUKIT PENINSULA Morning Market MARKET

%0361 (Jl Ulu Watu; h6am-noon) This is one of the

Hot and arid, the southern peninsula is best markets in Bali for a visit because: a)
known as Bukit (meaning ‘hill’ in Bahasa In-
donesia). It’s popular with visitors, from the it’s compact so you can see a lot without
cloistered climes of Nusa Dua to the syba-
ritic retreats along the south coast. wandering forever; b) local chefs swear by

the quality of the fruits and vegetables (ever

seen a cabbage that big?); and c) they’re

used to tourists tromping about.

The booming west coast with its string- Pura Ulun Siwi TEMPLE
of-pearls beaches is a real hot spot. Ac-
commodation sits precariously on the (Jl Ulu Watu) Across from the morning market,
sand at Balangan Beach while the cliffs
are dotted with idiosyncratic lodges at this ebony-hued temple from the 18th century
Bingin and elsewhere. New places sprout
SOUTH BALI & THE ISL ANDS SJBIIUMGKHBI AT SRPAE&NNAI CNTSIUVLI TAI E S is a snoozy place until it explodes with life, of-

ferings, incense and more on a holy day.

up daily and most have views of the tur- Ganeesha Gallery GALLERY
bulent waters here, which have world-
famous surf breaks all the way south to (%701 010; www.fourseasons.com; Four Seasons
the important temple of Ulu Watu. For
full details of the famous and infamous Jimbaran Bay) Ganeesha has exhibitions by in-
surf breaks along the Bukit Peninsula and
around Ulu Watu, see p29. ternational artists and is worth a visit – walk

south along the beach.

4 Sleeping

Some of south Bali’s most luxurious large re-

Jimbaran sorts are found in and around Jimbaran, as
well as a few midrange places off the beach.

Located just south of Kuta and the airport, Most offer some form of shuttle through the
Teluk Jimbaran (Jimbaran Bay) is an allur- day to Kuta and beyond. A new Meridien Re-
ing crescent of white-sand beach and blue sort near the southern seafood warung will
sea, fronted by a long string of seafood be a stylish addition.
warung and ending at the southern end in
a bushy headland, home to the Four Seasons Being a much more ‘real’ place (ie it’s not
Jimbaran Bay. an artificially planned resort), Jimbaran
makes a good resort alternative to the mon-
Jimbaran remains a relaxed alternative oliths of Nusa Dua.

to Kuta and Seminyak to the north (and you oFour Seasons
can’t beat the airport access!). Its markets are Jimbaran Bay
fun to visit and even with some new resorts RESORT HOTEL $$$
appearing it should still be a good escape.
(%701 010; www.fourseasons.com; villas from
1 Sights & Activities
US$800; aiWs) Each of the 147 villas here

is designed in a traditional Balinese manner,

oFish Market MARKET complete with a carved entrance way, which
opens onto an open-air dining pavilion over-
(Jimbaran Beach; h6am-3pm) A popular morn- looking a plunge pool. The spa is guests-only,
which maintains the very exclusive air. The
ing stop on Bukit Peninsula ambles is this site is a hillside overlooking Jimbaran Beach,
which is a very short walk away; most villas
smelly, lively and frenetic fish market – just have good views across the bay.

watch where you step. Brightly painted

boats bob along the shore while huge cases

of everything from small sardines to fear-

some langoustines are hawked. The action Keraton Jimbaran HOTEL $$$
is fast and furious.
(%701 991; www.keratonjimbaranresort.com; Jl

Jimbaran Beach BEACH Mrajapati; r US$160-300; aiWs) Sharing the

One of Bali’s very best beaches, Jimbaran’s same idyllic Jimbaran Beach as the neigh-

4km-long arc of sand fronts its namesake bouring pricier resorts, the low-key Keraton

bay. The sand is mostly very clean and is a good find. Its 102 rooms are scattered

there is no shortage of places to get a snack, about one- and two-storey bungalow-style

a drink, a seafood dinner or to rent a sun units. The grounds are spacious and typically

lounger. The bay keeps the surf mellower Bali-lush. Turn right as you hit the beach and

than at Kuta, although you can still get you’re almost immediately at the Middle Sea-

breaks that are fun for body surfing. food Warung.

97

444Jimbaran e# 0 400 m Jimbaran
A 0 0.2 miles
æ Sights
B

4441 1æ# : 1 Fish Market............................................ A1
Ganeesha Gallery..........................(see 4)

1: 2 Morning Market.....................................B2
SOUTH BALI & THE ISL ANDS EJBIAUMTKBIINATGRPAENN I N S U L AJl Ulu Watu
444Northern 8 È 3 Pura Ulun Siwi .......................................B2
KeJldPoanngtaani an :

ÿ Sleeping

Seafood #ú 5 ÿ# 4 Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay ...............A3
Warung 5 Hotel Puri Bambu ................................. B1
444Teluk JiJlmPbaarntaani È 6 Jimbaran Puri Bali ................................A3

Jimbaran Teluk Benoa 7 Keraton Jimbaran.................................A2
Jl Ngurah Rai Bypass
4442 ú Eating
Jimbaran 3 :2 8 Blue Marlin............................................. B1
Beach Ù#0! : 9 Lei Lei Seaside Barbeque ....................A3
Jl æ# æ# 2 10 Roman Café...........................................A2
PAegmuneglisan Jl Ulu:ns:iwi : 11 Teba Mega Cafe ....................................A3
Middle 10#ú : 12 Warung Bamboo...................................A2
Seafood 12 #ú
444Warung 7ÿ#6ÿ#PeJrlkYaongtai : þ Shopping

444Seafood ::
::::

:::

Southern ::::

:::

3 Warun1g1 #ú#ú 9Jl BukitJl UluWatu ::: 3: 13 Jenggala Keramik Bali
Ceramics.............................................B3
4444 Permai 13 #þ Jl Ulu Watu II
Bambu is an older but well-run place – and
ÿ# B

444A the best-value option in Jimbaran. The 48

SUdayana Kingfisher standard rooms (some with tubs) are in
Eco Lodge three-storey blocks around a large pool.
LODGE $$
5 Eating
(%747 4204; www.ecolodgesindonesia.com; r
Jimbaran’s three groups of seafood warung
US$70-85; aiWs) Feel like a bird perched cook fresh barbecued seafood every evening,
drawing tourists from across the south. The
in a green canopy from the 2nd-floor com- open-sided affairs are right by the beach and
perfect for enjoying sea breezes and sunsets.
mon areas of this lodge, which is a bit of Tables and chairs are set up on the sand al-
most to the water’s edge.
a Bukit oasis. There are grand views over
Fixed prices for seafood platters in a
south Bali from its perch on a knoll in 70 plethora of varieties have become common
and allow you to avoid the sport of choosing
hectares of bushland. The 10 rooms are com- your fish and then paying for it by weight
on scales that cause locals to break out in
fortable and there is an inviting common laughter. However, should you go this route,
be sure to agree on costs first. Generally, you
area with an excellent library. Much effort can enjoy plenty of grilled seafood, sides
and a couple of beers for under US$20 per
has been made to preserve and reuse water. person. Lobster will goose that figure up
considerably.
The lodge is inland near Udayana Univer-
The best kitchens marinate the fish in
sity, off a road that runs uphill from the Mc- garlic and lime, then douse it with chilli and
oil while grilling over coconut husks. Thick
Donald’s on the bypass. clouds of smoke from the coals are part of the

Jimbaran Puri Bali HOTEL $$$

(%701 605; www.jimbaranpuribali.com; Jl Yoga
Perkanti; cottages from US$300; aiWs) Un-

der the umbrella of luxe Orient-Express

Resorts, this beachside retreat is set in nice

grounds complete with a mazelike pool that

looks onto open ocean. The 41 cottages have

private gardens, large terraces and a stylish

room design with sunken tubs. It’s a lavish

yet low-key escape.

Hotel Puri Bambu HOTEL $$ atmosphere, as are roaming bands, who per-
form cheery, dated tunes from the ‘Macarena’
(%701 377; www.hotelpuribambu.com; Jl playlist. Almost all take credit cards.

Pengeracikan; r US$75-105; aiWs) A mere

200m from the beach, the flash-free Puri

98

PASCAL CHEVILLOT: roofs and wide-open sides. The beach is a
SEAFOOD CHEF little less manicured, with the fishing boats
resting up on the sand. Huge piles of coco-
nut husks await their turn on the fires.

Owner of the very popular Sardine Roman Café SEAFOOD $$
restaurant in Kerobokan, Chevillot is a
fixture at the Jimbaran fish market up (%703 124; Jl Pantai Kedonganan; meals 80,000-
to six mornings a week – so he knows
what’s been brought in fresh. 200,000Rp) Always seems just a slight cut

Best Market above the cheek-to-jowl competition.

The Jimbaran fish market. New seafood Warung Bamboo SEAFOOD $$
arrives constantly as boats pull up to
the beach. You know you’ll find certain (off Jl Pantai Jimbaran; meals 80,000-200,000Rp)
things like excellent shellfish all the
SOUTH BALI & THE ISL ANDS ASBHRUOK IUPTPNPIDNEGJNIIMNBSAURLAAN time, but it’s also an adventure as you Warung Bamboo is slightly more appealing
are constantly surprised.
than its neighbours, all of which have a cer-
Best Fish for Sale Here
tain raffish charm.
Sea bream, mahi mahi, skate, snapper
and more. SOUTHERN SEAFOOD WARUNG
The southern seafood warung (also called
Best Way to Visit the Muaya group) are a compact collection
at the very south end of the beach. There’s
Get there as early as possible and then a parking area off Jl Bukit Permai, and the
stay out of the way. Wander around beach here is well groomed with nice trees.
the dark interior; it’s like a warren and Call for transport.
you’ll be surprised at what Bali’s waters
yield. The vendors are actually happy to Teba Mega Cafe SEAFOOD $$
see you there, figuring you’ll eat more
seafood. (off Jl Bukit Permai; meals 80,000-200,000Rp)

Teba is the favourite of many long-term Bali

expats. Its seafood platters are just a smidge

better than the rest.

Lei Lei Seaside Barbeque SEAFOOD $$

(off Jl Bukit Permai; meals 80,000-200,000Rp) An

especially cheery outpost, with sparkling

tanks filled with future taste-treats.

Also right on the beaches, the luxury ho- 7 Shopping
tels’ cafes and restaurants afford beautiful
views of the surf, sea and sunset. Jenggala Keramik Bali Ceramics CERAMICS
(Jl Ulu Watu II; h9am-6pm) This modern ware-
NORTHERN SEAFOOD WARUNG house showcases beautiful ceramic home-
The longest row of warung is the northern wares that are a favourite Balinese purchase.
seafood warung, south of the fish market. There’s a viewing area where you can watch
This is the area you will likely be taken to production as well as a cafe. Ceramic courses
by a taxi if you don’t specify otherwise. Most are available for adults and children.
of these places are restaurant-like, with ta-
bles inside and out on the immaculate raked 8 Getting There & Away
sand. Call for free transport to/from much
of the south. Note that this is the area with Plenty of taxis wait around the beachfront
the hardest sell from legions of guys flagging warung in the evening to take diners home
down your driver. (about 60,000Rp to Kuta). Some of the seafood
warung provide free transport if you call first.
Blue Marlin SEAFOOD $$ Expect to pay 2000Rp per vehicle to use the
beach access roads.
(Jl Pantai Kedonganan; meals 80,000-200,000Rp)

Most of the northern places are like this

brick-clad establishment.

MIDDLE SEAFOOD WARUNG Around Jimbaran
The middle seafood warung are in a com-
pact group just south of Jl Pantai Jimbaran Folding around limestone bluffs, sightly
and Jl Pemelisan Agung. These are the sim- Tegalwangi Beach, 4.5km southwest of
plest affairs, with old-fashioned thatched Jimbaran, is the first of cove after cove hold-
ing patches of lovely sand all down the west