Uncommon Grounds

Both were gracious hosts when I visited Finca Oriflama in Guatemala.
I also want to thank the many e-mail correspondents who helped

brainstorm the book title. Coincidentally, Uncommon Grounds is also the
name of a fine coffeehouse in Burlington, Vermont.

I could not have completed this book without the help of research
assistants William Berger, Brady Crain, Jan DeSirey, Erica De Vos, Chris
Dodge, Shad Emerson, Sherecce Fields, Meg Gandy, Denise Guyette,
Margaret Jervis, John Kulsick, Liz Lasser, and Dhamma Merion. Many
thanks to Chris Dodge, Peter Freyd, Henry Lilienheim, my parents, and
others who acted as my “coffee clipping service.”

Helena Pasquarella took photos from old periodicals that appear in the
illustrations, and I am grateful to Greg Arbuckle, Brad Becker, and Jerry
Baldwin for help with other illustrations. In conjunction with his film on
coffee, David Ozier shared archival music and video footage. Jane
McCabe, then editor of the Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, generously
granted permission to reprint illustrations from that publication’s pages.

Librarians and archivists helped me at the Hartman Center at Duke
University, the Rockefeller Archives (Tarrytown, New York), the Underhill
Public Library (Vermont), the Brownell Library (Essex Junction,
Vermont), Bailey-Howe Library at the University of Vermont, the National
Archives, the Library of Congress, the New York Public Library, the South
Street Seaport Museum, the Archives Center at the National Museum of
American History (Smithsonian), CIRMA (Antigua, Guatemala), Syracuse
University Special Collections, Stanford University Special Collections,
and the International Coffee Organization in London. I was particularly
indebted to librarians/archivists/curators Anne Dornan, Ellen Gartrell, Bill
Gill, Steven Jaffe, Tab Lewis, Ginny Powers, Tom Rosenbaum, Allison
Ryley, and Martin Wattam.

In general, I found members of the coffee industry to be passionate
about their product and eager to help with this project. See the Note on
Sources for the long list of interviewees who shared their time and
memories. I want to single out a few people. Donald Schoenholt
generously shared his vast knowledge of coffee history and meticulously
reviewed the manuscript. T. Carroll Wilson, who joined Hills Brothers in
1924, took me through eight decades of his life in coffee. Dan Cox gave
me hours of his time and expertise. Russ Kramer shared his wonderful

private coffee library. Coffee exporter Klaus Monkemüller, who ran
Unicom, hosted me on my initial forays in Guatemala. Bill McAlpin put
me up at La Minita and shared his firmly held convictions. Doug Mitchell,
the travel agent who ran Café Away, made the three-week SCAA visit to
Honduras, El Salvador, and Nicaragua a well-planned pleasure. Ted Lingle
shared with me his knowledge and the resources of the Specialty Coffee
Association of America, just as Robert Nelson allowed me to rummage
through the National Coffee Association files and helped me in other ways
as well. Starbucks executive Dave Olsen granted a lengthy interview, and
for the second edition I interviewed CEO Howard Schultz and other
executives. Thanks to Sanja Gould of Starbucks for her enthusiastic help
and encouragement.

Other coffee experts who unselfishly helped were Mane Alves, Jerry
Baldwin, Ian Bersten, Kenneth Davids, George Howell, Fred Houk, Kevin
Knox, Erna Knutsen, Sherri Miller, Alfred Peet, Rick Peyser, and Gary
Talboy. Thanks to Green Mountain Coffee Roasters for allowing me to be a
student for a day at the company’s Coffee College in Waterbury, Vermont,
and to illycaffé for inviting me to attend Universita del Caffe in Trieste.

Like most writers, I couldn’t afford standard accommodations during
my research forays. I was fortunate to stay with varied and interesting
hosts—Sue Taylor in Fairfax, Virginia; Dan McCracken, Roz Starr, and
Grace Brady in New York City; Esperanza “Chice” Chacón and her
daughter, Andrea, in Guatemala City; Rick and Betty Adams at Finca
Oriflama and their home in Panajachel, Guatemala; Bill McAlpin’s La
Minita in Costa Rica; Philip and Jessica Christey in London; Sheila
Flannery in Chapel Hill; Brent and Janie Cohen in Oakland; and Britt and
Nan Pendergrast (my parents) in Atlanta.

The three largest coffee corporations at the time of the first edition—
Philip Morris (Kraft–Maxwell House), Procter & Gamble (Folgers-
Millstone), and Nestlé (Hills Brothers–MJB–Chase & Sanborn–Nescafé–
Taster’s Choice–Sarks)—chose not to participate in this project, other than
in a minimal way, so I had to rely primarily on interviews with former
employees. Becky Tousey of the Kraft Archives provided background
material about Maxwell House, however, and Nestlé headquarters at
Vevey, Switzerland, sent me a fine published corporate history. Procter &
Gamble provided a 1962 history of Folgers. Ogilvy & Mather (Maxwell

House) and McCann-Erickson (Taster’s Choice) personnel were helpful.
For this second edition, I am again particularly indebted to Donald

Schoenholt of Gillies Coffee for his help and encouragement, as well as
Silvia Carboni, Tim Castle, Karen Cebreros, Dan Cox, Owen Dugan, Frank
Elevitch, Moreno Faina, Brian Franklin, Kyle Freund, Sanja Gould,
George Howell, Russ Kramer, Mausi Kühl, Ted Lingle, Bill McAlpin,
Graham Mitchell, Laura Peterson, Marino Petracco, Rick Peyser, Ric
Rhinehart, Paul Rice, Robert Rice, Rolf Sauerbier, Susie Spindler, Yesenia
Villota, Geoff Watts, Sandy Wynne, and Sandy Yusen

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Mark Pendergrast is an independent scholar who brews a fantastic cup of
coffee. He is the author of many books, including For God, Country, and
Coca-Cola. He lives in Vermont.

Photo courtesy of the author

Author Mark Pendergrast (left) looks down at his half-
filled canasta, which he picked in the same time it took his

caporal Herman Gabriel Camel (right) to harvest a full
basket on Finca Oriflama in Guatemala.

APPENDIX

How to Brew the Perfect Cup

Despite the mystique, brewing a good cup of coffee is relatively simple.
Grind recently roasted whole beans of a high-quality arabica blend. Bring
cold, pure water to a near boil. Let the not-quite-boiling water remain in
contact with the ground coffee at the proper ratio—two tablespoons of
coffee per six ounces of water—for four or five minutes. Pour the filtered
coffee into your cup. Add sugar or cream if you prefer it that way. Drink
immediately. Sigh contentedly.

That really is all there is to it. Having said that, I have to admit there
are finer points that true coffee aficionados discuss endlessly. What is the
best grind for what kind of brewing method? Which is the best brewing
device? How dark should the beans be roasted? Is it preferable to store
roasted coffee in the freezer or the refrigerator? Which are the best beans
for after-dinner enjoyment? Are paper filters okay to use? And God help
you if you want advice on espresso, which is treated as if it were an
esoteric art best performed by Leonardo da Vinci on speed.

When I began writing this book, I thought I appreciated good coffee.
Now I’ve slurped, swirled, and spat at cupping sessions, tried beans from
Antigua to Zimbabwe, and own various brewing systems. Sometimes I
even roast my own beans in my kitchen oven at 450°F using a Palani
Plantation roasting pan—an aluminum pie plate with holes punched
regularly in the bottom that set me back around $20, including a supply of
green beans (fax/phone orders to 650-327-5774). In my oven, it takes
about seven minutes until the first pop, when I can hear the beans
crackling and expanding. With the oven fan on, I take them out at eleven
minutes for a medium roast, then toss them in a colander outdoors to cool
them. I blow on them to remove most of the brown chaff—the silver skin
that pops off during the roast. It’s magic. Hard green beans that look

something like peanuts come out of the oven nearly doubled in size and
looking like roasted coffee.

They taste like it too. The heat has caused a chemical alchemy inside
the beans, caramelizing sugars and carbohydrates, producing chlorogenic
acids, and releasing volatile aromatic oils. I grind my fresh-roasted beans
in a burr grinder. Then I measure the right amount into my preheated press
pot (sloshing hot water around in it does the trick). In the meantime, I’ve
put a tea kettle on the stove until it’s whistling. I take it off the burner and
let it sit for a few seconds, then pour the water in. Because the beans are
freshly roasted, they still have a lot of carbon dioxide, and they foam up. I
stir them down, add more water until the pot is full, cover it with the little
piston, and read the paper for five minutes. Then I slowly press the
plunger to the bottom and pour my cup.

I like the press pot because it is so basic—it makes a real infusion, just
the coffee and hot water. The drawback is that it’s annoying to clean, and
the coffee cools off pretty quickly. Regardless of your brewing method,
you should pour it into a thermos to keep it warm once it’s made. A paper
filter system makes cleanup easier. For a superb, dramatic brew, use a
vacuum system, if you can find one in a specialty shop. Or you can use an
automatic electric brewer, but beware—only a few models get the
temperature (should be 195°F) and brew time right. And don’t leave the
coffee on the hotplate, where it will turn bitter quickly. You can even make
a decent cup of coffee in a pumping percolator if you carefully regulate
time, temperature, and grind, but I don’t advise it.

If you’re not keen on coffee smoke in your kitchen (or setting off your
smoke detector), and if you want professionally roasted coffee, you should
find a local specialty roaster. Ask questions, and you’ll get suggestions for
different blends and roast styles. For that bright wake-up cup, try a high-
grown Guatemalan Antigua. For after-dinner coffee, how about a rich,
full-bodied Sumatra? I cannot advise whether to purchase dark-roasted
beans, since this is a matter of preference. I don’t like beans roasted just
this side of charcoal, but many people love them. The main point,
regardless of what roast or origin you choose, is to get freshly roasted
coffee at frequent intervals, buying only what you plan to use in the
coming week or so. Otherwise, your coffee will get stale, no matter how
great it was to start with.

If you don’t have a local roaster, order through the mail. I can’t
recommend specific suppliers, but there are plenty of them. Or try your
local supermarket. The choices have gotten better. If you buy bulk whole
beans, ask the manager how frequently they are rotated. You don’t want to
buy beans that have been staling for a couple of weeks. If you buy
packaged beans, make sure they are all-arabica and that they come in a
one-way valve bag.

If you have to store your beans, put them in your freezer in an airtight
container (with as little air in it as possible). You can grind and brew them
straight from the freezer. It’s best to buy a superior burr grinder, but one of
the blade whackers will do. The longer you let it whine, the finer your
grind will be. Generally, the proper grind is determined by how long the
grounds remain in contact with the hot water. For drip methods, a medium
grind allows the flavorful solubles to be dissolved in five minutes. Longer
contact with water just extracts bitterness. For my press pot, I use a
slightly coarser grind, since the water remains in full contact with all of
the grounds for the entire brewing time. For espresso or vacuum brewing,
you want a fine, powdery grind owing to a very short period of contact.

If you’re into espresso, there are many kinds of expensive machines.
And if you really want great espresso, go to your favorite coffeehouse and
buy it there. Or buy one of the single-serving machines from Keurig,
Nespresso, illycaffé or others.

If you want to flavor your coffee, try easy-to-find natural additives
first. The Ethiopians and Arabs used cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, citrus
rinds, or ground nuts. They didn’t know about cocoa or vanilla. Various
forms of liquor work well. Whipped cream is nice. If you must, use
flavoring syrups after you’ve brewed the coffee, or buy preflavored beans.
Remember—whatever you like is okay.

NOTES ON SOURCES

In the interests of space, I have written the brief bibliographic essay below
to replace the extensive original endnotes and bibliography. For those, see
the first hardback edition, or contact me through my website,
www.markpendergrast.com.

—Mark Pendergrast

General books on coffee history and cultivation: Among the first
were Francis Thurber’s Coffee: From Plantation to Cup (1881); Robert
Hewitt Jr.’s Coffee: Its History, Cultivation and Uses (1872) and Edwin
Lester Arnold’s Coffee: Its Cultivation and Profit (1886). William H.
Ukers’s All About Coffee (2nd ed., 1935) is the classic text. Heinrich
Eduard Jacob, a German journalist, offered The Saga of Coffee (1935), and
Colombian Andrés C. Uribe wrote Brown Gold (1954). Frederick L.
Wellman wrote the monumental, if technical, Coffee: Botany, Cultivation
and Utilization (1961), followed by Modern Coffee Production (2nd ed.,
1962), by A. E. Haarer. British expert Edward Bramah offered Tea &
Coffee (1972) and Coffee Makers (1989). Ulla Heise contributed Coffee
and Coffeehouses (1987), while Gordon Wrigley wrote Coffee (1988), a
technical treatise. Two members of the Illy family, famed for Italian
espresso, wrote the lavishly illustrated The Book of Coffee (1989). Philippe
Jobin assembled the reference work The Coffees Produced Throughout the
World (1992). Australian Ian Bersten has written the fine Coffee Floats,
Tea Sinks (1993), and Alain Stella contributed the coffee-table The Book of
Coffee (1997). Stewart Lee Allen penned the quirky and entertaining book
The Devil’s Cup (1999). Daniel and Linda Lorenzetti’s The Birth of Coffee
features photos of global coffee cultivation. Bennett Alan Weinberg and
Bonnie K. Bealer’s The World of Caffeine (2001) offers a well-researched,

detailed history of coffee, tea, and chocolate, along with caffeine’s
cultural, physiological, and psychological effects. Antony Wild’s Coffee:
A Dark History (2004) is an intriguing but undocumented and sketchy
history. Michaele Weissman’s God in a Cup (2008) features three young
world-roaming specialty coffee men.

Film documentaries include Santiago’s Story (1999), from TransFair
USA; Grounds for Hope (2000), from Lutheran World Relief; Grounds for
Action (2004), directed by Marco Tavanti from Jubilee Economics
Ministries; Coffee Crisis (2003), from the Canadian Centre for
International Studies and Cooperation; Black Coffee (2005), directed by
Irene Angelico; Coffee with the Taste of the Moon (2005), produced by
Michael Persinger; Black Gold (2006), directed by Nick and Marc Francis;
Birdsong & Coffee (2006), directed by Anne Macsoud and John Ankele;
Buyer Be Fair (2006), produced/written by John de Graaf; From the
Ground Up (2009), directed by Su Friedrich.

There are numerous books about the characteristics of coffee from
different origins, along with roasting and brewing information. Among the
earliest and best was The Story of Coffee and Tea (2nd ed., 1996), by Joel,
David, and Karl Schapira, along with Kenneth Davids’s many excellent
books, such as Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing & Enjoying (in many
editions), Timothy Castle’s The Perfect Cup (1991), Claudia Roden’s
Coffee (1994), Corby Kummer’s The Joy of Coffee (1995), Jon Thorn’s The
Coffee Companion (1995), Coffee Basics, by Kevin Knox and Julie
Sheldon Huffaker (1996), and Aroma of Coffee (2nd ed., 2003), by Luis
Norberto Pascoal. For tasters, there is Ted Lingle’s The Coffee Cuppers’
Handbook (3rd ed., 2001) and Paul Katzeff’s English/Spanish The Coffee
Cuppers’ Manifesto (2001). Espresso lovers can consult David Schomer’s
Espresso Coffee: Professional Techniques (revised 2004) and Rinantonio
Viani and Andrea Illy’s Espresso Coffee: The Science of Quality (2nd ed.,
2005).

I relied primarily on three books for information on caffeine’s health
effects: Buzz: The Science and Lore of Alcohol and Caffeine (1996), by
Stephen Braun; the more comprehensive Understanding Caffeine (1997),
by Jack James; and The World of Caffeine (2001), by Weinberg and Bealer.
Professional articles on caffeine by Roland Griffiths and John Hughes
were also invaluable. Kicking the Coffee Habit (1981), by Charles F.

Wetherall, and Caffeine Blues (1998), by Stephen Cherniske, are typical of
the anti-caffeine books.

Three coffee organizations have extensive resources and publications:
the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) in Long Beach,
California, the National Coffee Association (NCA) in New York City, and
the International Coffee Organization (ICO) in London.

The first coffee trade journal was the Spice Mill (now defunct), but
the Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, long edited by the renowned William
Ukers, eventually superseded it and remains the standard in the field.
There are many other fine coffee periodicals, notably Barista, Coffee &
Cocoa International, Coffee Talk, Fresh Cup, Roast, and Specialty Coffee
Retailer. The now-defunct World Coffee & Tea also offered good coverage.
Three Internet-only magazines are available: Comunicaffe International
and Comunicaffe (www.comunicaffe.com); Virtual Coffee
(www.virtualcoffee.com); and Café Culture Magazine
(www.cafeculturemagazine.co.uk). Coffee blogs and other sites: Coffee
Review (www.coffeereview.com), by Kenneth Davids; Coffee Geek
(www.coffeegeek.com), by Mark Prince; Coffee Sage
(www.coffeesage.com), by Joe Sweeney; Coffee Connaisseur
(www.coffeeconnaisseur.com), by Steve Gorth; Coffeed.com
(www.coffeed.com), “for professionals and fanatics”; Coffee Research
(www.coffeeresearch.org), by Coffee Research Institute; Coffee Origins’
Encyclopedia (www.supremo.be), by Belgian importer Supremo Coffee.

Useful histories/books on individual companies: A & P: A & P: A
Study in Price-Cost Behavior and Public Policy (1966), by M. A.
Adelman; That Wonderful A & P! (1969), by Edwin P. Hoyt; The Rise and
Decline of the Great Atlantic & Pacific Tea Company (1986), by William
I. Walsh; Alice Foote MacDougall: The Autobiography of a Business
Woman (1928), by Alice Foote MacDougall; Arbuckles: Arbuckles: The
Coffee That Won the West (1994), by Francis L. Fugate; CFS Continental:
More Than a Coffee Company: The Story of CFS Continental (1986), by
Jim Bowman; Claude Saks: Strong Brew (1996), by Claude Saks; Coca-
Cola: For God, Country and Coca-Cola (2d ed., 2000), by Mark
Pendergrast; Columbian Coffee: Juan Valdez: The Strategy Behind the
Brand (2008), by Mauricio Reina et al; Douwe Egberts: Van Winkelnering
Tot Weredlmerk: Douwe Egberts (1987), by P. R. Van der Zee; Folgers:

The Folger Way (1962), by Ruth Waldo Newhall; Jacobs: 100 Years of
Jacobs Cafe (1995), by Kraft Jacobs Suchard; Jewel Tea: Sharing a
Business (Jewel Tea, 1951), by Franklin J. Lunding; The Jewel Tea
Company (1994), by C. L. Miller; La Minita: Hacienda La Minita (1997),
by William J. McAlpin; Lavazza: Lavazza: 100 Years of Lavazza History
(1995), by Notizie Lavazza; Maxwell House: Maxwell House Coffee: A
Chronological History (1996), by Kraft Foods; MJB: Coffee, Martinis,
and San Francisco (MJB, 1978), by Ruth Bransten McDougall; Nestle:
Nestle: 125 Years (1991), by Jean Heer; Probat: The Heavenly Inferno
(1968), by Helmut Rotthauwe; Procter & Gamble: Eyes on Tomorrow:
The Evolution of Procter & Gamble (1981), by Oscar Schisgall; Soap
Opera: The Inside Story of Procter & Gamble (1993), by Alecia Swasy;
Starbucks: It’s Not About the Coffee: Leadership Principles for a Life at
Starbucks (2007), by Howard Behar; Grande Expectations: A Year in the
Life of Starbucks’ Stock (2008), by Karen Blumenthal; Starbucked: A
Double Tall Tale of Caffeine, Commerce, and Culture (2007), by Taylor
Clark; Wrestling with Starbucks: Conscience, Capital, Cappuccino (2008),
by Kim Fellner; How Starbucks Save My Life (2007), by Michael Gates
Gill; Trade-Off (2009), by Kevin Maney and Jim Collins; The Starbucks
Experience (2006), by Joseph A. Michelli; Tribal Knowledge: Business
Wisdom Brewed from the Grounds of Starbucks Corporate Culture (2006),
by John Moore; Pour Your Heart Into It (Starbucks history, 1997), by
Howard Schultz and Dori Jones Yang; My Sister’s a Barista (2005), by
John Simmons; Everything But the Coffee: Learning About America from
Starbucks (2009), by Bryant Simon; The Gospel According to Starbucks
(2007), by Leonard Sweet; W. R. Grace: Grace: W. R. Grace & Company
(1985), by Lawrence A. Clayton.

Books on coffee prices and international commodity schemes
include: Open Economy Politics (1997), by Robert H. Bates; The Corner in
Coffee (fiction, 1904), by Cyrus Townsend Brady; The Coffee Paradox
(2005), by Benoit Daviron and Stefano Ponte; An Oligopoly: The World
Coffee Economy and Stabilization (1971), by Thomas Geer; Trading Down
(2005), by Peter Gibbon and Stefano Ponte; The Brazilian Coffee
Valorization of 1906 (1975), by Thomas H. Holloway; The International
Political Economy of Coffee (1988), by Richard L. Lucier; Rise and
Demise of Commodity Agreements (1995), by Marcelo Raffaelli; The Inter-

American Coffee Agreement of 1940 (1981), by Mary Rohr; Studies in the
Artificial Control of Raw Material Supplies (1932), by J. W. F. Rowe;
Grounds for Agreement (2004), by John Talbot; Coffee to 1995 (1990), by
Michael Wheeler; The World Coffee Economy (1943), by V. D. Wickizer.

Books about Fair Trade and the coffee crisis of 1999–2004: Gregory
Dicum and Nina Luttinger wrote The Coffee Book (1999, 2006),
concentrating primarily on social and environmental issues. Mugged:
Poverty in Your Coffee Cup (2002), by Charis Gresser and Sophia Tickell,
is an Oxfam overview. John Talbot’s Grounds for Agreement (2004) argues
for a new quota system via an International Coffee Agreement. Daniel
Jaffe’s Brewing Justice (2007) is about the impact of Fair Trade on
cooperatives in Oaxaca, Mexico. Confronting the Coffee Crisis (2008),
edited by Christopher M. Bacon et al., is a collection of academic essays
on Fair Trade in Central America and Mexico. Other books: Fair Trade
(2005), by Charlotte Opal and Alex Nichols; Organic Coffee (2006), by
Maria Elena Martinez-Torres; Branded! (2007), by Michael E. Conroy;
Fair Trade (2007), edited by Laura T. Raynolds et al.; Fair Trade Coffee
(2007), by Gavin Fridell; 50 Reasons to Buy Fair Trade Coffee (2007), by
Miles Litvinoff and John Madeley; Fair Trade for All (revised ed., 2007),
Joseph E. Stiglitz; The Handbook of Organic and Fair Trade Food
Marketing (2007), by Simon Wright and Diane McCrea.

Coffee history involves a great deal of Latin American, African, and
Asian history and politics, and I consulted numerous volumes. Among the
more useful were:

For Latin America: Crucifixion by Power (1970), by Richard N.
Adams; La Matanza (1971) and The War of the Dispossessed (1981), by
Thomas P. Anderson; El Salvador: The Face of Revolution (1982), by
Robert Armstrong and Janet Shenk; The Brazilian Economy (1989), by
Werner Baer; Roots of Rebellion (1987), by Tom Barry; Bitter Grounds
(fiction, 1997), by Sandra Benitez; The Colombian Coffee Industry (1947),
by Robert Carlyle Beyer; Getulio Vargas of Brazil (1974), by Richard
Bourne; Land, Power, and Poverty (1991), by Charles D. Brockett; Violent
Neighbors (1984), by Tom Buckley; The Political Economy of Central
America Since 1920 (1987), by Victor Bulwer-Thomas; three fine books by
E. Bradford Burns: Eadweard Muybridge in Guatemala (1986), A History
of Brazil (2nd ed., 1980), and Latin America: A Concise Interpretive

History (1994); Coffee and Peasants (1985), by J. C. Cambranes; Coffee,
Society and Power in Latin America (1995), edited by William Roseberry
et al.; Thy Will Be Done (1995), by Gerald Colby and Charlotte Dennett;
With Broadax and Firebrand (1995), by Warren Dean; Vargas of Brazil
(1967), by John W. F. Dulles; The Wine Is Bitter (1963), by Milton S.
Eisenhower; Erwin Paul Dieseldorff (1970), by Guillermo Nañez Falcón;
Massacres in the Jungle (1994), by Ricardo Falla; Coffee, Contention and
Change in Modern Brazil (1990), by Mauricio A. Font; The Masters and
the Slaves (1933), by Gilberto Freyre; Open Veins of Latin America (1973),
by Eduardo Galeano; Gift of the Devil: A History of Guatemala (1984) and
Revolution in the Countryside (1994), by Jim Handy; Early Twentieth-
Century Life in Western Guatemala (1995), by Walter B. Hannstein;
Written in Blood: The Story of the Haitian People (1978), by Robert Deb
Heinl Jr. and Nancy Gordon Heinl; The CIA in Guatemala (1982), by
Richard H. Immerman; Coban and the Verapaz (1974), by Arden R. King;
Undue Process: The Untold Story of America’s German Alien Internees
(1997), by Arnold Krammer; Inevitable Revolutions: The United States in
Central America (1983), by Walter LaFeber; Latin America in the 1940s
(1994), edited by David Rock; Rural Guatemala (1994), by David
McCreery; Bitter Grounds: Roots of Revolt in El Salvador (1985), by Lisa
North; Coffee and Power: Revolution and the Rise of Democracy in
Central America (1997), by Jeffrey M. Paige; Coffee in Colombia (1980),
by Marco Palacios; A Brief History of Central America (1989), by Hector
Perez-Brignoli; Generations of Settlers (1990), by Mario Samper; A
Winter in Central America and Mexico (1885), by Helen J. Sanborn; Bitter
Fruit (1983), by Stephen Schlesinger and Stephen Kinzer; The Second
Conquest of Latin America (1998), edited by Steven C. Topik and Allen
Wells; Peasants of Costa Rica and the Development of Agrarian
Capitalism (1980), by Mitchell A. Seligson; Coffee Planters, Workers and
Wives (1988), by Verena Stolcke; I, Rigoberta Menchú (1983), by
Rigoberta Menchú; Rigoberta Menchú and the Story of All Poor
Guatemalans (1999), by David Stoll; Managing the Counterrevolution
(1994), by Stephen M. Streeter; The Slave Trade (1997), by Hugh Thomas;
Political Economy of the Brazilian State, 1889–1930 (1987), by Steven
Topik; Barbarous Mexico (1910), by John Kenneth Turner; El Salvador
(1973), by Alastair White; Silence on the Mountain: Stories of Terror,

Betrayal, and Forgetting in Guatemala (2004), by Daniel Wilkinson;
States and Social Evolution (1994), by Robert G. Williams; Coffee and
Democracy in Modern Costa Rica (1989), by Anthony Winson; Central
America: A Nation Divided (2nd ed., 1985), by Ralph Lee Woodward Jr.

For Africa and Asia: The Decolonization of Africa (1995), by David
Birmingham; The African Colonial State in Comparative Perspective
(1994), by Crawford Young; Black Harvest (film about Papua New Guinea
coffee, 1992), by Bob Connolly and Robin Anderson; Max Havelaar
(1860), by “Multatuli,” Eduard Douwes Dekker; Decolonization and
African Independence (1988), edited by Prosser Gifford; Out of Africa
(1938), by Isak Dinesen; Coffee and Coffeehouses: The Origins of a Social
Beverage in the Medieval Near East (1985), by Ralph S. Hattox; Coffee,
Co-operatives and Culture (1992), by Hans Hedlund; The Flame Trees of
Thika (1982), by Elspeth Huxley; Coffee: The Political Economy of an
Export Industry in Papua New Guinea (1992), by Randal G. Stewart; The
Pioneers 1825–1900: The Early British Tea and Coffee Planters (1986), by
John Weatherstone; In Bad Taste? (2007), by Massimo Francesco
Marcone, has a chapter on Kopi Luwak coffee; Coffee: Authentic Ethiopia
(2010), by Majka Burhardt. About the suppression of the Montagnards
in Vietnam, see Gerald Hickey’s Sons of the Mountains (1982), Free in
the Forest (1982), and Window on a War (2002), as well as Human Rights
Watch’s Repression of Montagnards (2002) and No Sanctuary (2006). Also
see Christianity and the State in Asia (2009), ed. by Julius Bautista and
Francis Khek Gee Kim.

In the consuming countries, books on advertising, marketing, and
general business were useful, such as The Golden Web (1968) and A
Tower in Babel (1966) by Erik Barnouw; Personality Not Included: Why
Companies Lose Their Authenticity (2008), by Rohit Bhargava; The Age of
Television (3rd ed., 1972), by Leo Bogart; The Golden Years of
Broadcasting (1976), by Robert Campbell; Your Money’s Worth (1927), by
Stuart Chase and F. J. Schlink; Made in the USA (1987), by Thomas V.
DiBacco; Captains of Consciousness (1976), by Stuart Ewen; The Mirror
Makers (1984), by Stephen Fox; The Lives of William Benton (1969), by
Sidney Hyman; International Directory of Company Histories (1990),
edited by Lisa Mirabile; Chain Stores in America (1963), by Godfrey M.
Lebhar; Madison Avenue (1958), by Martin Mayer; Trail Blazers in

Advertising (1926), by Chalmers Lowell Pancoast; Scientific Marketing of
Coffee (1960), by James P. Quinn; Our Master’s Voice (1934), by James
Rorty; 22 Immutable Laws of Branding (1998), by Al Ries and Laura Ries;
Victorian America (1991), by Thomas J. Schlereth; The Psychology of
Advertising (1913), by Walter Dill Scott; The Manipulators (1976), by
Robert Sobel; A Nation of Salesmen (1994), by Earl Shorris; Value
Migration (1996), by Adrian J. Slywotzky; New and Improved (1990), by
Richard S. Tedlow; Adcult (1996), by James B. Twitchell; Being Direct:
Making Advertising Pay (1996), by Lester Wunderman; Adventures in
Advertising (1948), by John Orr Young.

General books on food included: Food and Drink in History, vol. 5
(1979), edited by Robert Forster; The Taste of America (1977), by John L.
and Karen Hess; Seeds of Change: Five Plants That Transformed Mankind
(1986), by Henry Hobhouse; Food of the Gods (1992), by Terence
McKenna; Sweetness and Power (1985), by Sidney Mintz; Pharmacotheon
(1993), by Jonathan Ott; Tastes of Paradise (1992), by Wolfgang
Schivelbusch; Food in History (1973), by Reay Tannahill; Much Depends
On Dinner (1986), by Margaret Visser.

On C. W. Post: Cerealizing America (1995), by Scott Bruce and Bill
Crawford; Cornflake Crusade (1957), by Gerald Carson; The New Nuts
Among the Berries (1977), by Ronald M. Deutsch; Charles William Post
(1993), by Peyton Paxson.

On psychologist John Watson: Mechanical Man (1989), by Kerry W.
Buckley.

Relevant history books of North America and the world included: The
Big Change (1952) and Only Yesterday (1931), by Frederick Lewis Allen;
The Long Thirst: Prohibition in America (1976), by Thomas M. Coffey;
The Americans: A Social History (1969), by J. C. Furnas; Modern Times
(1983), by Paul Johnson; American Policies Abroad (1929), by Chester
Lloyd Jones et al.; Manias, Panics and Crashes (1989), by Charles P.
Kindleberger; The Boston Tea Party (1964), by Benjamin Woods Labaree;
The Fifties (1977), by Douglas T. Miller and Marion Nowak; The New
Winter Soldiers (1996), by Richard R. Moser; The Sugar Trust (1964), by
Jack Simpson Mullins; Fighting Liberal (1945), by George W. Norris; The
Great Good Place (1989), by Ray Oldenburg; The Early English Coffee
House (1893), by Edward Robinson; We Say No to Your War (1994), by

Jeff Richard Schutts; Hard Times (1970), by Studs Terkel; History and
Reminiscences of Lower Wall Street and Vicinity (1914), by Abram
Wakeman; The Life of Billy Yank (1952), by Bell Irvin Wiley.

On shade-grown coffee and migratory birds: Birds Over Troubled
Waters (1991), by Russell Greenbeg and Susan Lumpkin; Proceedings,
Memorias: 1st Sustainable Coffee Congress (1997), edited by Robert A.
Rice et al.; Coffee, Conservation and Commerce in the Western
Hemisphere (1996), by Robert A. Rice and Justin R. Ward; Silence of the
Songbirds, by Bridget Stutchbury (2007).

See the Acknowledgments for collections and archives used for this
book. In addition, I consulted numerous lawsuits and government
documents, including the Congressional Record, various hearings on
coffee, FTC reports, the State Department’s country study volumes, and
the like. Articles from the business press and popular magazines rounded
out the research, along with various Web sites.

LIST OF INTERVIEWS

The following interviews were conducted December 1, 1995–March 15,
1999, and July 1, 2008–November 1, 2009.

David Abedon
Betty Hannstein Adams
Richard N. Adams
Walter Adams
Pamela Aden
Mané Alves
Dominic Ammirati
Tommy Ammirati
Irene Angelico
Andrea Appelwick
Jose Julio Arivillaga
José Armado Cheves
Philip Aronson
Steve Aronson
Donald Atha
Peter Baer
Albert Baez
Lamar Bagby
Jerry Baldwin
Gonzalo Barillas
Jairo Alfonso Bautista
Stephen Bauer
Andrea Bass
Bert Beekman

Ed Behr
Frank Bendaña
Ian Bersten
Bernie Biedak
Jack Binek
G. Barry “Skip” Blakely
Oren Bloostein
George Boecklin
Lindsey Bolger
Jim Bowe
Dennis Boyer
Kathy Brahimi
Edward Bramah
Don Breen
Anthony Bucalo
Ray Bustos
Monica Patricia Caceres
Gabriel Cadena Goméz
Jim Cannell
Anthony Caputo
Silvia Carboni
María del Carmén Cálix
Roger Castellon Orué
Tim Castle
Karen Cebreros
Andrea Chacón
Esperanza Chacón
Tom Charleville
Joe Charleville
Holly Chase
Michael Chu
Stephen Coats
Bob Cody
Major Cohen
Jerry Collins
Steve Colten

Paul Comey
Peter Condaxis
Ron Cortez
Neal Cowan
Dan Cox
Paul Crocetta
Joaquin Cuadra Lacayo
David Dallis
Kenneth Davids
Gwilym Davies
Stuart Daw
Martin Diedrich
David Donaldson
Herb Donaldson
Pablo Dubois
Owen Dugan
Kimberly Easson
Mike Ebert
Laura Edghill
Craig Edwards
Marty Elkin
Rob Everts
Moreno Faina
Francis Miles Filleul
Myra Fiore
Gary Fischer
Bill Fishbein
Victoria Fisichelli
Jaime Fortuño
Brian Franklin
Hideko Furukawa
Paul Gallant
Ryan Gamble
Fred Gardner
Patrice Gautier
Gianfranco Giotta

Peter Giuliano
Stephen Gliessman
Miguel Gomez
Jorge Gonzalez
Jane Goodall
Larry Gorchow
Sterling Gordon
Angel Martin Granados Gonzales
Sanja Gould
David Griswold
Carolyn Hall
Doug Hall
Tom Harding
Jerry Harrington
Barbara Hausner
Dub Hay
Adalheidur Hedinsdottir
Carmen Hernandez Melendez
David Higgins
Eirikur Hilmarsson
Will Hobhouse
Don Holly
Fred Houk Jr.
John J. Hourihan
George Howell
John Hughes
Richard von Hunersdorff
Andrea Illy
Ernesto Illy
Susan Irwin
Jorge Isaac Mendez
Jay Isais
Roberta Jaffe
Stephen Jaffe
Michael Jimenez
Phil Johnson

Chuck Jones
Phil Jones
Phyllis Jordan
Julius Kahn
Jeanne Kail
Elizabeth Kane
Paul Katzeff
Frederick S. M. Kawuma
Jim Kharouf
Trina Kleist
Kevin Knox
Erna Knutsen
Suryakant Kothari
Russ Kramer
Stanley Kuehn
Eddy Kühl
Edward Kvetko
David Latimer
David Latourelle
Gerardo Leon-York
Carl Leonard
Robert Letovsky
Eduardo Libreros
Earl Lingle
Jim Lingle
Ted Lingle
Celcius Lodder
Peter Longo
Bill McAlpin
Sandy McAlpine
Joe McBratney
Jane McCabe
Colin McClung
Rella MacDougall
Alton McEwen
Becky McKinnon

Carrie MacKillop
Charlie Magill
Ruth Magill
Mitchell Margulis
Oscar Marin
John Martinez
John Mastro
Tom Matzen
Scott McMartin
Ernesto Mendez
Maritza Midence
Sherri Miller
Bruce Milletto
Doug Mitchell
Graham Mitchell
Shirin Moayyad
Melissa Maria Molina Icias
Raul Molina Mejia
Klaus Monkemüller
Fernando Montes
Dave Moran
Steve Morris
Steve Moynihan
Kerry Muir
Marsha Nagley-Moody
Donna Neal
Robert Nelson
Stanley Newkirk
Frank O’Dea
Toshi Okamoto
Kate Olgiati
Samuel Olivieri
Dave Olsen
Simeon Onchere
Nestor Osorio
Carlos Paniagua Zuñiga

Alfred Peet
Humberto Peña
Tony Pennachio
Alvaro Peralta Gedea
Hector Perez Brignoli
Laura Peterson
Price Peterson
Marino Petracco
Rick Peyser
Jon Phelps
Dawn Pinaud
Ruben Pineda Fagioli
Jaime Polit
Joanne Ranney
Paul Ralston
Alejandro Renijo
Luciano Repetto
Jim Reynolds
Ric Rhinehart
Dory Rice
Paul Rice
Robert Rice
Stefano Ripamonti
Mark Ritchie
Claudia Roden
Connie Roderick
Oscar Rodriguez
Edgar Rojas
Jonathan Rosenthal
Kris Rosentrater
Neil Rosser
Steve Sabol
Mario Samper
Marcus Samuelson
Luz Maria Sánchez
Grady Saunders

Matt Saurage
Donald Schoenholt
David Schomer
Steve Schulman
Howard Schultz
Mary Seggerman
Jo Shannon
Joanne Shaw
Elise Wolter Sherman
Roberio Silva
Michael Slater
Julio C. Solozano
Duane Sorenson
Susie Spindler
Jim Stewart
Bob Stiller
William Stixrud
David Stoll
Dana Stone
David Stonehill
Norm Storkel
Mike Sullivan
Alecia Swasy
Gary Talboy
Karen Techeira
Josh Tewksbury
Dave Tilgner
Peter Torrebiarte
Steven Topik
Art Trotman
Timothy Tulloch
Jim Twiford
Mark Upson
Ricardo Valvidieso
Jerry Van Horne
Matt Vanek

Pablo Vargas Morales
Roland Veit
Rodrigo Veloso
Marcelo Vieira
Carter Vincent
Patty Vincent
Bill Walters
Irwin Warren
Geoff Watts
Craig Weicker
Jon Wettstein
Jonathan White
Robert L. White
Elizabeth Whitlow
T. Carroll Wilson
Randy Wirth
Guy Wood
Jeremy Woods
Sandy Wynne
Sandy Yusen
Saul Zabar
Cecelia Zarate-Laum

ILLUSTRATION CREDITS

Front Matter and Part Openers

Frontispiece: Ukers, All About Coffee.
Kaldi and his goats (p. 1): Ukers, All About Coffee.
Arbuckle Brothers ad (p. 107): Simmons Spice Mill, June 1916, 597.
Postwar diner (p. 213): Holiday, September 1949, 65.
Frasier photo (p. 263): Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, August 1998.
Author with Herman Gabriel Camel (p. 386): Photo by Betty Hannstein

Adams.

Insert One

Arab sipping coffee: Ukers, All About Coffee.
Womens Petition Against Coffee: Ukers, All About Coffee.
Cross-section of a coffee cherry: Knox and Huffaker, Coffee Basics,

illustration by Steve Katagiri.
Families harvesting in Guatemala: CIRMA organization, Antigua,

Guatemala.
Lt. Gabriel Mathieu: Ukers, All About Coffee.
Factory workers: Ukers, All About Coffee.
Lion Coffee package: Arbuckles’ Coffee Museum, Cedar Rapids, Iowa.
Arbuckles’ Ariosa Coffee package: Arbuckles’ Coffee Museum, Cedar

Rapids, Iowa.
Ariosa poster: Fugate, Arbuckles.
John Arbuckle: Spice Mill, September 1910, cover.
The Corner in Coffee illustration: Brady, The Corner in Coffee.
Mayan workers: Stanford University Special Collections.
Hermann Sielcken: Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, October 1921, 20a.
Joel Cheek: Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, January 1905, 19.
Women working in the United States: Spice Mill, December 1913, 1244.
Women working in Central America: Spice Mill, December 1913, 1244.
1909 “cuppers”: Spice Mill, April 1909, 231.
George Norris cartoon: Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, June 1911, 446.
C. W. Post drawing: Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, April 1911, 277.

Postum ad: Brad Becker Collection.
Melinda P. Kyle: Spice Mill, November 1912, 949.
“Roastem” cartoon: Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, July 1910, 45.
Maxwell House ad: Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, May 1921, 611.
Jewel Tea cartoon: Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, October 1933, 316.
“Wagon men”: Miller, Jewel Tea Company.

Insert Two

“Coffee An Aid to Factory Efficiency” poster: Tea & Coffee Trade
Journal, February 1921, 205.
G. Washington cartoon: Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, February 1920, 266.
“Good Coffee” car: Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, July 1905, 35.
1930s flight attendant: 1931 advertisement, author’s collection.
Alice Foote MacDougall: MacDougall, Autobiography.
1920s Italian coffeehouse: MacDougall, Autobiography.
1934 cartoon ad: 1934 advertisement, author’s collection.
“Mr. Coffee Nerves”: Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, May 1936, 390.
“Golly, Mis’ Maria”: Hartman Center, Duke University.
Jitterbug poster: 1939 World’s Fair ad, author’s collection.
Mae West and Charlie McCarthy: The Harvard Theatre Collection, The

Houghton Library.
Kenya coffee poster: Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, June 1937, 349.
Eleanor Roosevelt: Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, September 1941, 16.
WWII GIs: Coffee, 1948.
WWII soldiers cartoon: Bill Mauldin, Up Front.
“Amazing Coffee Discovery!”: Hartman Collection, Duke University.
“The Coffee Break” cartoon: Wall Street Journal.
Frank Sinatra: Coffee 5, no. 1 (January 1947): 2.
Chock full o’ Nuts ad: Quinn, Scientific Marketing of Coffee.
U.S. housewives in Paraná: Time, March 1, 1954, 33.
Hills Bros. ad: Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, January 1966, 38.
Juan Valdez: Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, January 1960, 24.
Wontkins Muppet: Quinn, Scientific Marketing of Coffee.

Insert Three

Alfred Peet: Jim Reynolds.
Baby Boom hippies: Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, January 1970, 27.
Baldwin, Bowker, and Siegl: Jerry Baldwin’s collection. Photo by Frank

Denman.
Erna Knutsen: Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, November 1974, 18.
Campesino cartoon: Jonas and Tobis, eds., Guatemala.
Robert Young: Madison Avenue, May 1984, 83.
Folger’s Mrs. Olson: Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, January 1979, 23.
“Don’t Drink Coffee” pin: Time, January 17, 1977, 46–47.
Ugandan coffee poster: Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, August 1965, 28.
Folgers/Maxwell House boxing cartoon: Fortune, July 17, 1978, 68,

cartoon by Jack Davis.
Far Side cartoon: The Far Side by Gary Larson.
Don Schoenholt: Donald Schoenholt collection.
Equal Exchange ad: Equal Exchange.
Screaming Man cartoon: Robert Therrien, “Screaming Man on Caffeine,”

1991.
Taster’s Choice commercial: McCann-Erickson.
Starbucks mermaid logo: Original mermaid, Jerry Baldwin, drawn by

Terry Heckler.
In These Times cover: In These Times, November 11, 1996, cover.
Howard Schultz: Rosanne Olson.

Bird label: Gold Valley Farms, West Chester, Pennsylvania.
Shaded plantation: Russ Kramer.
Bill Fishbein: Coffee Kids.
Fair Trade logo: TransFair USA.
Too Much Coffee Man: Shannon Wheeler, Adhesive Comics.

Praise for
UNCOMMON GROUNDS

“With wit and humor, Pendergrast has served up a rich blend of anecdote,
character study, market analysis, and social history.… Everything you
ought to know about coffee is here, even how to make it.”

—New York Times

“A focused and juicy history of our last legal and socially acceptable
drug.”

—Wall Street Journal

“Pendergrast’s account satisfies because of its thoroughness.…
Pendergrast unearths coffee-based trade wars, health reports, and café
cultures, bringing to light amusing treasures along the way.”

—Mother Jones

“Ask anyone in the coffee world and they will cite this book as a
favorite.… [I]t gives a comprehensive understanding to the history and
complexities of your favorite drink.”

—The Kitchn

“Pendergrast… has produced a splendid tale, setting out all one could hope
to know about coffee.”

—Scientific American

“Pendergrast’s broad vision, meticulous research, and colloquial delivery
combine aromatically.”

—Publishers Weekly

“Uncommon Grounds is not only a good read but a vital one.”
—Washington Monthly

“An exhaustive, admirably ambitious examination of coffee’s global
impact, from its roots in 15th-century Ethiopia to its critical role in
shaping the nations of Central and Latin America.… Should be read by
anyone curious about what goes into their daily cup of Java.”

—Kirkus

“Pendergrast’s sprightly, yet thoroughly scholarly, history of America’s
favorite hot beverage packs the pleasurable punch of a double espresso.”

—Booklist

INDEX

A & P. See Great Atlantic and Pacific Tea Company
Aborn, Edward and Ed Jr., 111, 220, 235
Abyssinia, 3. See also Ethiopia
Adams, Abigail, 43
Adams, Betty Hannstein, 315, 348
Adams, James S., 208–209
Adams, John, 14, 15
Adams, Samuel Hopkins, 101
Adulterants, 55–57, 69, 125. See also Coffee: substitutes for
Advertising, 51, 52, 57, 91, 94–95, 96, 97–98, 99–101, 102, 109, 114–116,

118, 124, 125, 127–132, 137, 144–145, 146, 151, 152, 153, 154, 155–
158, 172, 195, 219, 220, 244, 303, 308, 336
advertising allowances, 190, 192
negative ads, 185–188, 189
by radio/television, 175–181, 183–185, 187, 221–223, 224, 240, 247,
255, 256, 257, 258, 259, 260, 286, 304, 310–311, 323
Africa, 6, 17, 28, 142, 172–173, 173(n), 223, 235–237, 248–251, 269, 270,
329, 331, 364, 371
African Americans, 129, 147, 242
Aga, Soliman, 8
Alaska, 283
Alcohol, 13, 17, 43, 48, 143, 180. See also Beer
Alien Property Act, 89
All About Coffee (Ukers), 17
Allen, Frederick Lewis, 156
Almeida Prado, Francisco Augusto, 27
American Can Company, 197

American Coffee Corporation, 112, 148, 171
American Psychiatric Association, 309
American Retail Federation, 191–192
American Sugar Refining Company, 66
Amin, Idi, xvii, 290, 297–299
Amos ‘n’ Andy radio show, 176
Anderson, Jack, 302
Anderson, Thomas, 169(n)
Angelico, Irene, xx
Angola, 236, 248, 250, 252, 275, 290, 297, 314
Anti-chain legislation, 191–193
Appendicitis, 105–106
Arabs, 5–7, 17
Arbenz Guzmán, Jacobo, 229, 230, 232
Arbuckle, John and Charles, 48–50, 57, 65–66, 66–72, 82, 126, 181

premium program of, 70
Arduino, Teresio, 194
Arévalo, Juan José, 228
Argentina, 167
Argus (Albany, New York), 81
Arnold, Benjamin, 64
Arnold, Edwin Lester, 40–41, 42
Aro Coffee, 127, 128
Aron, J., 134, 227
Aronson, Steve, 380, 381
Asner, Ed, 321
Assassinations, 38, 170, 231, 232, 250, 252, 299(n), 316, 374
Associated Coffee Industries of America, 173, 182
Association of Coffee Producing Countries (ACPG), 329
Atha, Frank P., 121, 151, 186(n)
Atrocities, 315. See also Death squads; Massacres
Attala, Jorge Wolney, 290–291, 304
Automobiles, 149, 160, 191, 227
Avicenna (Arabian physician), 4–5

Baba Budan, 7

Baby boomers, 254–255, 279, 337
Bach, Johann Sebastian, 11, 323
Baldwin, Jerry, 279–280, 313, 333–334, 335
Balzac, Honoré de, 9
Balzac, Richard, 134
Bankruptcies, 62, 64, 88, 163, 166, 255, 287, 360
Banks, 33, 73, 77, 78, 79, 134, 160, 161, 162, 231, 279, 280, 294
Barillas, Lisandro, 33
Baristas, 335, 354, 358–359
Barnouw, Erik, 176
Barrios, Justo Rufino (General), 30, 31, 32
Beecham, R. K. (Captain), 43
Beekman, Bert, 320, 371
Beer, 11, 43
Beeson, Emmet, 159–160
Beethoven, Ludwig van, 11
Belgian Congo, 42, 141, 173(n), 236, 237, 250
Benitez, Sandra, 169(n)
Benton and Bowles agency, 176–181, 221
Bentz, Melitta, 111
Berlin, Irving, 175
Bernardes, Artur da Silva, 159
Bersten, Ian, 10
Bezzera, Luigi, 194
B. Friele & Sons, 194
B. G. Arnold & Company, 61–62, 63, 64
Bible, 156, 185
Bickford, Clarence, 117
Biedak, Bernie, 313
Billings, John, 46–47
Biodiversity, 369, 370, 371
Birds, 353, 368–370, 371, 373
Bitter Grounds (Benitez), 169(n)
Black, William, 240–242, 304, 312
Blackburn, Joseph E., 69
Black Coffee and Black Gold (documentaries), xx

Blue Mountain coffee, 142, 345
Boecklin, George, 305
Bogotá Group, 301–302
Bolger, Lindsey, 356
Boom and bust cycle, 61, 64, 74, 75, 76, 235
Boston, 14–15, 43, 50–51, 61, 115, 282, 336(n), 340
Boston Tea Party, The (Labaree), 15
Boston Transcript, 143
Bourke-White, Margaret, 197, 197(n)
Bovee, William, 53
Bowie Dash & Company, 61–62, 63
Bowker, Gordon, 279–280, 333, 335
Bowles, Chester, 176–181, 210
Boycotts, 291, 292, 297, 298–299, 321–322, 327, 351
Brady, Cyrus Townsend, 66
Brandenstein, Mannie, 119–121, 151
Brands, 109–111, 112, 116, 125, 127, 151, 152, 157, 209, 361
Braun, Stephen, 376
Brazil, xvii, 16, 20, 21–28, 45, 135, 138–139, 165–167, 171–174, 199, 201,

206, 210, 252, 276, 287, 294, 295, 303, 328, 351, 380
Banco do Estado do São Paulo, 161
Brazilian Coffee Institute (IBC), 329
coffee syndicate in, 79
crop failure in, 64
destruction of coffee in, 166, 167, 171, 173, 269
frost in, 227, 228, 237, 240, 252, 275, 289, 291, 293, 295
funding American advertising, 144–145
growing and harvesting coffee in, 24–26
New Republic government, 74
Paraná, 225, 226, 228, 237, 252, 275, 289
Santos, 77, 79, 124, 136, 138, 163, 167, 171, 216
São Paulo, 26, 27, 28, 62, 76–78, 79, 84, 159, 160–161, 163, 166, 209,

216, 275
valorization schemes of, 77, 79, 80–88, 91, 134, 139, 159–161, 162, 165,

172
See also Coffee: Brazilian coffee

Britain, 11–14, 19, 23, 39, 42, 46, 134, 160, 173(n), 236, 243–244, 277,
331, 353

British East India Company, 14–15
Broca do café (coffee borer), 166, 346, 367, 370
Bryan, William Jennings, 87
Bubonic plague, 65
Buckley, Tom, 316
Bunn/buncham/bunchum, 4
Burbank, Luther, 104
Burhardt, Majka, xx, 368
Burns, Jabez, xvii, 47–48, 54–56
Burundi, 278–279
Business Week, 191, 202, 340
Butler, Ralph Starr, 176, 177
Butler, Smedley (General), 162
Butter, 117–118, 228
Buzz (Braun), 376
Byoir, Carl, 193
Byrne, Jane, 292

Cabrera, Estrada, 135, 141
Caceres, Ricardo Falla, 301–302
Café Borgia/Anisette Royal/Brulot, 243
Café Britt, 380, 381
Café de Procope, 8–9
Café Femenino Foundation, 364
C.A.F.E. Practices, 349, 352
Caffeine, 6, 17, 41, 42, 89, 91, 95, 96, 102, 104, 137, 141, 143, 212, 220,

273, 274, 331, 337, 375–380
as addictive, 180, 379–380
caffeinism as disorder, 309, 377
as causing birth defects, 308–309
double-blind experiments on, 103, 377
as natural pesticide, 375
See also Coffee: decaf; Medical/health issues
California, 192, 208. See also San Francisco

Calvert Social Investment Foundations, 349
Canada, 283, 308, 319, 320, 336(n), 341, 343, 355
Cantor, Eddie, 178
CARE charity, 339, 351
Carías Andino, Tiburcio, 170
Caribbean region, 17–18
Caribou Coffee, 361
Carrera, Rafael, 29, 30
Carson, Gerald, 110(n)
Carter Pull-Out roaster, 46
Cartoon strips, 185–186, 187
Castellon Orué, Roger, 318
Castillo Armas, Carlos (General), 230–231
Castle, Tim, 346
Cauchois, Frederic A., 114
Cebreros, Karen, 365
Cell phones, xxi, 362, 363
Center for Science in the Public Interest (CSPI), 308–309
Central America, 21, 22, 28, 34, 38, 102, 117, 138, 141, 150, 162, 168–171,

204, 209–210, 226, 270, 314–315, 363, 365, 369, 370
Liberals in, 29, 30, 31
Cerna, Vicente, 30
César Sandino, Augusto, 170, 170(n)
Ceylon, 7, 21, 34, 41, 42, 45, 142
Chamorro, Pedro Joaquín, 299(n)
Chantland, William T., 82, 85, 88
Charles II (King), 13–14
Chase & Sanborn coffee, 51–52, 116, 122–123, 152, 155, 177–178, 177(n),

179, 183–185, 185–186, 188, 196, 198, 208–209, 222, 285, 304, 361
Cheek, Joel Owsley, 123–-126, 155, 157, 158–159
Cheek-Neal Coffee Company, 124–125, 158
Chester, Colby M., Jr., 158
Chicago, 64, 113, 114, 129, 156, 158, 176, 181–183, 189, 259, 335–336,

361
Chicory, 11, 19, 47, 55, 56, 102, 118(n), 125, 277, 294, 345
Children, 16, 23, 29, 33, 34, 35–36, 40, 43, 50, 103, 118(n), 145, 162, 168,

180, 197–198, 211, 224, 271, 301, 318, 325(n), 365, 377, 378. See
also Teenagers
China, 14
Chock full o’ Nuts coffee, 240–242, 304, 312, 361
Civet cats, 345
Civil wars, 139, 290, 299, 314, 322, 328
Clark, H. H., 116
Clement VIII (Pope), 8
Climax Coffee, 119–120
Coca-Cola, 95, 103–104, 109, 125(n), 179(n), 180, 188, 211, 212, 222,
223–224, 247, 255, 256, 276, 277, 285–286, 311, 312, 331
Cochineal, 30
Cocoa, 8, 236
Coffee
acidity, xvi, 34, 123, 281
aging beans, 58, 58(n)
arabica coffee, 25, 34–35, 42, 141, 142, 172, 193, 195, 225, 226, 236,
250(n), 270, 281, 297, 355, 368, 379(n)
Ariosa coffee, 49, 50, 57, 69–70, 96, 99, 121, 126, 127, 181
aroma, xvi, 118, 239, 281, 354
birthplace of, 3
books about, xx, 283, 343
body, xvi, 123
bourbon coffee, 15, 368
Brazilian coffee, 25, 34–35, 44, 46, 49, 50, 57, 59, 62, 65, 67, 71, 72, 73,
74, 102, 117, 140, 216, 217 (see also Brazil)
chemicals in roasted bean, 380
coffea liberica and coffea canephora, 42
coffee breaks, 220–221
coffee crises, xxi, 20, 45, 75, 350, 351 (see also Boom and bust cycle)
coffee pests, 41 (see also Broca do café; Hemileia vastatrix)
Colombian coffee, 135, 138, 150, 171(n), 204, 346, 369 (see also
Colombia)
consumption of, 58, 73, 74, 76, 134, 141, 161, 171, 197, 227, 238, 252,
255(n), 277, 289, 327, 380 (see also United States: coffee
consumption in)

decaffeinated coffee, 104–105, 158(n), 187, 197, 274–275, 304, 309–
310, 325

derivation of name coffee, 6
drip brewing, 111, 193, 215, 247(n), 283–284
dry/wet method of processing, 24(n), 26, 34, 351, 366
espresso, 194, 195, 242–243, 244, 245, 277, 312, 334, 342, 350, 353,

354, 355, 359, 362, 372
as evil drug, 89, 92 (see also Caffeine)
first mention in print, 4
flavor, xvi, 26, 34, 123, 142, 157, 236, 257, 281
flavored coffee, 284, 307, 310
freeze-dried coffee, 257, 274, 285, 286, 303, 325, 331
glazes for beans, 49, 55, 66, 69
grinds for, 188–189, 240
grown in full sun, 368–369, 369–370
harvesting, 24–26, 35–36, 39, 140, 346, 347, 367
health issues concerning (see Medical/health issues)
home roasting, 44–45
iced-coffee, 197, 331
instant coffee, 105, 137–138, 137(n), 185, 196, 205, 219–220, 223, 227,

235, 239, 241, 243–244, 257, 276, 277, 284, 285, 303, 325, 355
Java coffee, 57–58, 62, 71, 94, 102–103 (see also Java)
Kopi Luwak coffee, 345
livelihood from, xv–xvi, 58–59
magazines devoted to, 343
Mocha coffee, 7, 15(n), 71, 117, 142, 282
multinational conferences of 1936/1937, 171, 172
organic coffee, 365–367
packages of preroasted, 48–49, 48(n), 110
poisonous coloring of beans, 57
prices, xvii, xviii, 7, 15, 19–20, 21, 26, 39, 44, 45, 46, 55, 61, 64, 65, 67–

72, 74, 75, 76, 135, 136, 138, 140, 161, 164, 166, 171–172, 173, 178,
179, 187, 201–203, 209–211, 216–217, 219, 224, 226–228, 232, 233,
238, 291, 293, 295, 349, 372 (see also Brazil: valorization schemes
of; Minimum resale price; Quota systems)
roasting, xvi, xvii, xviii, 5, 44–45, 45(n), 51, 54–55 (see also Roasters)

robusta coffee, 42, 141–142, 141(n), 172, 173(n), 193, 194, 195, 219,
223, 238–240, 245, 260–261, 265, 270, 276, 278, 297, 304, 312, 327,
349, 379(n)

semi-washed method of processing, 351
shortages of, 217–218, 292
specialty coffees, 267(n), 282, 283–284, 295–296, 305, 307–331, 325,

331, 336, 342–343, 346
substitutes for, 11, 19, 47, 89 (see also Adulterants; Chicory; Postum)
Sulawesi coffee, xvi
tourist coffee, 268–269, 314
transforming the world, xxi
uses for surplus coffee, 166–167
visible supply of, 73, 74, 75, 76
world production of, 74
See also Caffeine; Coffeehouses; Cupping
Coffee Achievers campaign, 311
Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing & Enjoying (Davids), 283
Coffee and Power (Paige), 31
Coffee: Authentic Ethiopia (Burhardt), 368
Coffee Cantata (Bach), 11, 323
Coffee Connection, 282, 340, 346
“Coffee Exchange of the City of New York, The” (Wheatley), 61
Coffee: From Plantation to Cup (Thurber), 40, 56, 57
Coffeehouses, xvii, xx, 3, 9, 12, 131, 143, 144, 146–148, 166, 167, 181,

194, 242–243, 245, 246, 271, 280, 282, 339, 362, 372, 381
banning/closing, 6, 13–14, 272, 273
Blue Bottle (Vienna), xx, 10
as egalitarian meeting place, 9, 12
first American, 14
in Germany, 10–11
GI coffeehouses, 272–273
Green Dragon (Boston), 14
in Japan, 245–246, 276–277
in London, 12, 13
in Venice, 8
Coffee: Its Cultivation and Profit (Arnold), 40–41

Coffee: Its History, Cultivation, and Uses (Hewitt), 58
Coffee Kids, 364
Coffee Quality Institute (CQI), xxi, 358
Coffex company, 309
Cohn, Harry and Jacob, 114
Cold war, 235, 237, 249, 290, 328
Collier’s Weekly, 101
Colombia, 21, 22, 139–141, 170–171, 171–172, 199, 201, 218, 218(n), 226,

237, 259–260, 269, 275, 290, 294, 295, 329, 358. See also Coffee:
Colombian coffee
Colonos, 27, 28, 171
Communism, 168, 169, 227, 229, 230, 237, 249, 250, 303, 316, 317
Community Agroecology Network (CAN), 350
Computers, 362, 363. See also Internet
Condaxis, Peter, 268
Conrad, Joseph, 30
Conservation International, 352, 371
Consumer movement, 191
Continental System, 19–20
Coolies, 40
Copersucar company, 304, 312
Corner in Coffee, The (Brady), 66
Costa Rica, xvii, 28, 34, 38–39, 45, 142, 162, 170, 226, 228, 346–348, 350,
353, 363, 366, 369, 380–381
Cotton, 30, 85, 136, 160, 297, 374
Cox, Dan, 319–320, 342
Coyotes (pejorative name), 363
Crane, Stephen, 47
Cream of Wheat, 112
Credit/credit risk, 33, 62, 63, 75, 162, 173, 320, 364
Crossman & Sielcken, 78, 88
Cruzeiro currency, 231, 237
Cuadra Lacayo, Joaquín (General), 319, 374
Cuba, 249
Cup for Education, 365
Cup of Excellence, xxi, 350, 358

Cupping, xvi, 117, 266, 268, 281, 350, 358

Daniels, Paul, 202, 210
D’Aubuisson, Roberto, 316, 374
Davids, Kenneth, 283
Davies, Gwilym, 359
Dean, Warren, 24
de Assis-Brasil, J. F., 76, 84
Death squads, 315, 316, 317, 374
de Belloy, Jean Baptiste, 45
Debt, 33, 36, 52, 74, 75, 171, 231, 238

debt peonage, 27, 29, 31, 33–34, 170. See also Forced labor
de Clieu, Gabriel Mathieu, xx, 15, 17
Dekker, Eduard Douwes, 18–19
Del Monte Coffee, 179(n)
Democracy, 38, 136, 210(n)
de Sousa, Luís Pereira, 161
Dews, Peter, 379–380, 380(n)
Diamond mining, 22, 374
Díaz, Porfirio, 37
Dictatorships, 168, 170, 173, 230, 249, 250, 254(n), 290, 299, 315
Diedrich Coffee, 361
Dieseldorff, Erwin Paul, 34
Dilworth Brothers’ coffee establishment, 49
Diodato, Johannes, 10(n)
Dirksen, Everett, 254
Disconto Gesellschaft Bank of Berlin, 77
Diseases, 32, 65, 92, 95, 100, 138(n), 273–275, 309, 376, 378
Distant Lands Trading Company, 348
Domingo, Juana, 36
Dominican Republic, 364
Dom Pedro I/II (Portuguese Emperors), 21, 22, 23, 28, 74
Donald, Jim, 354
Douglas, Paul, 253
Douwe Egberts firm, 194, 245, 277, 320
Drachman, Mose, 70

Drinking in America, 43
Dufour, Philippe Sylvestre, 8
Dulles, John Foster and Allen, 229, 230
Duncan Foods, 256, 257
Dunkin’ Donuts, 246(n), 343, 355–356, 362
Duque Rodríguez, Alberto, 312(n)
Dutch East Indies, 7, 41, 141
Dutch Guiana, 15(n), 16

Economist, The, 289
Ecotourism, 367–368
Edgar Bergen and Charlie McCarthy, 184–185, 196, 208, 222
Egalitarianism, 9, 12, 38, 39
Egypt, 6, 236
Eight O’Clock Coffee, 112, 153, 190, 297, 324, 361
Eisenhower, Dwight (General), 221, 226, 227
Ellerbee, Linda, 326–327
El Salvador, 32, 37, 162, 168–169, 209, 275, 299–300, 303, 321–322, 370

ARENA party in, 316, 317, 374
Engwall, Victor Theodor, 194
Environmental issues, xviii, xix, xxi, 24, 363, 366, 367–368, 369
Equal Exchange, 320
Erwin Wasey Agency, 146, 177, 177(n)
Espresso Coffee Professional Techniques (Schomer), 360
Ethiopia, xv, 3, 5, 6, 142, 173(n), 236, 275, 282, 290, 339, 366, 380
Europe, 7–9, 16, 17, 19, 27, 28, 30, 45, 56(n), 64, 134, 193–196, 223, 244–

245, 255(n), 277, 279, 353, 374
Evening Sun (New York), 89
Exchange rates, 74, 77, 218
Exports, xviii, 7, 26(n), 30, 30(n), 39, 45, 59, 75, 135, 139, 140, 141,

149(n), 160, 162, 168, 170, 172, 173, 232, 239, 289, 292, 294, 297,
328. See also Quota systems
ExtractMoJo, 362

Fair Trade coffee, xviii, xxi, 320—321, 347, 348, 349(n), 350, 351–354,
371

Famine, 18
Farabundo Martí, Agustín, 168, 169
Farmer, Roy and Frank, 114
Federacíon Nacional de Cafeteros (FNC), 171
Fermage system, 18
Fertilizer, 24, 25, 35, 269, 292, 347, 365, 367, 370
Filters, 114
First Sustainable Coffee Congress (1966), 370–371
Fishbein, Bill, 364
Fisher, M. F. K., 215
Fleischmann Company/Fleischmann’s Yeast, 155, 177(n), 208
Flour, 87, 167
Flu epidemic, 138(n)
Folger, James, 53–54, 116–117, 121
Folger, James A. II/III, 121–122, 150–151, 186(n), 208
Folgers Coffee, 150, 152, 176, 178, 182, 185, 208, 223, 256, 258, 259, 265,

284–285, 286–287, 294, 295, 298, 303, 304, 321–322, 324–325, 330,
361
Fonda, Jane, 272
Forced labor, 31, 32, 33, 37, 38, 228, 236. See also Debt: debt peonage
France, 8–9, 15, 17, 20, 105, 141(n), 194, 223, 236, 245, 249–250, 277, 314
French Revolution, 9
Francis, Nick and Marc, xx
Frank, Joan, 337
Frederick the Great, 11
French Guiana, 15(n), 16
Friedman, Thomas, 362
Friele, Berent Johan, 148, 160, 162, 163, 207, 220

Galeano, Eduardo, 26
Gallant, Paul, 324
Gálvez, Mariano, 29
Gamble, Robbie and Jamie, 321
Gardner, Fred, 272
Gates Foundation, 364
General Foods, xvii, 106, 155, 159, 176, 177, 178, 181, 192, 208, 221, 222,

223, 239, 257, 260, 274, 275, 276, 277, 284, 285, 286, 287, 294, 295,
297, 298, 303–304, 310, 311, 323, 325
Geneva Group, 275
George Howell Coffee Company, 362
Germany, 10–11, 46, 77, 88, 89, 105, 133, 136, 193, 195, 198, 304
German immigrants/settlers, 27, 27(n), 32–34, 36, 39, 135, 199–200,
206–207
West Germany, 244–245, 275, 277, 314
Gettysburg: The Pivotal Battle of the Civil War (Beecham), 43
Gevalia Kaffee, 323
Gilbert Islands, 31(n)
Gillette, Guy, 217, 218, 219
Gilman, George Francis, 111, 112(n)
Gliessman, Steve, 350
Global economy, xviii, xxi, 73, 374
Global Exchange, 351, 368
Global warming, 363
God in a Cup (Weismann), xx, 357
Goetzinger, M. E., 153–154
Gold, 22, 163, 276, 374
Golden Gate Coffee, 150
Goulart, João, 254(n)
Granados, Angel Martin, 347
Grandin Advertising Agency, 98
Grape-Nuts cereal, 91, 96, 97, 98, 101, 106
“Great American Fraud, The” (S. Adams), 101
Great Atlantic and Pacific Tea Company (A & P), 111–112, 148, 153, 171,
171(n), 176, 189, 190, 192, 193, 198, 239, 285, 296–297, 324
Great Depression, 164, 165, 168, 170, 171, 172, 174, 177, 181–183, 186,
189, 190, 191, 198, 240
Great, Good Place, The (Oldenburg), 339
Greenberg, Russell, 345, 369, 371
Green Mountain Coffee Roasters (GMCR), 356, 361
Green River Ordinances, 189
Gregg, Judy, 247
Gregory, Elizabeth, 93

Grinders, 47
Griswold, David, 357
Grounds for Health, 364
Guatemala, xvii, 28–36, 135, 141, 162, 170, 201, 227, 271, 275, 290, 300–

301, 303, 315, 339, 346, 348, 364, 365, 366, 368
coup in, 228–231
Germans in, 32, 34, 36, 199–200, 206, 228, 229
Guerrillas, 315, 316, 317
G. Washington’s Refined Coffee, 137, 138, 185, 197

Hadlick, Paul, 217
Haiti, 17, 18, 141, 162, 363
Hamilton, Margaret, 286
Hancock, John M., 149
Hannstein, Bernhard, 33–34
Hannstein, Walter, 207, 315
Hardtack and Coffee (Billings), 46–47
Harper’s, 58
Harriman, Averell, 253–254
Harrison, Eric, 365
Hartford, George Huntington, George L., and John, 111–112, 112(n), 148
Harvest for Humanity, 367(n)
Hattox, Ralph, 6
Havemeyer, H. O., 66–72
Hawaii, 75(n), 142, 159, 341, 345
Health issues. See Medical/health issues
Hemileia vastatrix (leaf rust), 41–42, 141, 142, 275–276, 290, 317, 368,

370
Henderson, Leon, 202, 203
Herbicides, 347
Hernández Martínez, Maximiliano, 168, 169
Hewitt, Robert, Jr., 58
Hills Brothers coffee, 116–119, 122, 150, 151–153, 178, 182–183, 186–

187, 189, 196, 204, 208, 222–223, 256, 258–259, 290–291, 295, 304,
361
Hixson’s Suffragette Coffee, 130(n)

Hobler, Atherton, 177, 178, 179, 180–181, 221, 223
Hodgson, Daniel, 135
Holbrook, E. F., 136
Holland, 7, 11, 14, 15(n), 18, 19, 40, 58, 96, 141, 205, 245, 320
Hollingworth, Harry and Leta, 103, 377
Honduras, 170, 318, 318(n), 319, 365, 367, 373, 374
Hoover, Herbert, 136, 138, 160, 161, 161(n), 162
Hope, Bob, 176, 179
Houphouët-Boigny, Félix, 236
Howell, George, xix, 282, 340, 346, 350, 357, 362
Hübner Health Coffee, 105
Huene, D. R., 273
Hughes, John, 379
Hurricane Mitch, 373
Hutton, E. F., 106, 158–159

I Am Well! (Post), 93, 93(n), 101
Ichord, Richard, 272
illycaffé, 195, 245, 350, 358, 360
Immigrants, 27, 28, 31. See also Germany: German immigrants/settlers
Import/export houses, 33, 75
Incomes, 270–271, 364. See also Wages
India, 7, 14, 21, 40, 142, 236, 237, 269, 361
Indigenous peoples, xviii, xxi–xxii, 28, 36. See also Mayan Indians
Indonesia, 40, 237, 269, 270, 339, 366
Industrial revolution, 16
Inequities, xviii, xxi, 36, 236, 320, 322, 348, 373–374
Inflation, 138, 210, 211, 231, 254(n), 295, 326
“In Praise of Coffee” (Arabic poem), xv
Inter-American Coffee Agreement, 201–202, 216
Inter-American Human Rights Commission, 315
International Coffee Agreement (ICA), 251–254, 268, 269, 270, 276, 290,

301, 302, 314, 329, 351
collapse of, 327–328
International Coffee Organization (ICO), 255, 269, 271, 328, 329
International Congress for the Study of the Production and Consumption

of Coffee, 75–76
International Life Sciences Institute (ILSI), 309
International Longshoremen’s and Warehousemen’s Union (ILWU), 322
International Women’s Coffee Alliance, 364–365
Internet, xxi, 350, 362, 363, 367(n)
Interstate Grocer, 113
Isabel (Portuguese Princess-Regent), 28
Israel, Leon, 227–228
Italy, 8, 10, 76, 193, 194, 195, 198, 223, 242, 245, 277, 334, 350
Ivory Coast, 236–237, 248, 249, 250, 252, 271, 275

Jacob, Heinrich Eduard, 18, 20, 166
Jacobs, Johann and Walther, 195
Jacobs Kaffee, 244–245, 277
Jacobson, Michael, 308–309
Jaffe, Robbie, 350
Jamaica, 142, 345
James, Jack, 375, 376, 378
James, William, 128
Jamison, Will, 126, 127, 154
Japan, 245–246, 252, 276–277, 331, 340, 346, 355
Java, 7, 18–19, 20, 21, 40, 42, 45, 57–58, 141. See also Coffee: Java coffee
Jell-O, 158
Jewel Tea Company, 113–114, 148–150, 153, 189–190, 204, 207–208
J. Henry Schroeder & Company of London, 79
John VI (Portuguese King), 21
Johnson, Lyndon, 270, 272, 273
Johnson, Phil, 343
Journal of Commerce, 63
Juan Valdez, 259–260
J. Walter Thompson Agency (JWT), 127–129, 130, 154, 155–158, 177(n),

178, 183, 222

Kaffee-Hag coffee, 187, 304
Kaldi legend, 3–4
Kamikowa Brothers, 122