Hồi Ký Kiến Trúc Trường Kiến Trúc Saigon

276 KTS Nguyeãn Ngoïc Duõng - Lang thang phoá thò 4
Architect Nguyen Ngoc Dung - WANDERING IN TOWNS 4

caùch, giöõ cho khu vöïc baûn ñòa nhöõng ñaëc tröng vôùi the French Quarter of Colonial Power on the Southern bank.
veû ñeïp voán coù, taêng chaát löôïng soáng, ñi laïi deã - In 1935, Indochina Governor General decided to
daøng, boá trí nhieàu vöôøn hoa, coâng vieân, ñoái vôùi
nhaø ôû quy ñònh roõ raøng maät ñoä, chieàu cao toái ña vaø expand Hue city through the urban planning and building
caùch ñöôøng toái thieåu 8 m, caùch caùc coâng trình keá projects of FrenchArchitect Raoul Desmaretz. This planning
beân 4 m, loâ ñaát toái thieåu laø 600 m2... Vôùi nhöõng quy was carried out in the colony but followed standards of the
ñònh ñôn giaûn, deã hieåu noùi leân moái töông quan French planning law promulgated in 1919 - “The Loi
giöõa caùc coâng trình coâng coäng vaø nhaø daân, nhaø Cornudet”, which considered the key factors of urban func-
daân vôùi ñöôøng saù, haøng raøo vôùi coáng raõnh, ñieän tions, sanitations and aesthetics. During the project, Mr Raoul
nöôùc, nhaát laø caây xanh ñöôïc quy ñònh cuï theå nhö suggested that “The urban planning must be well integrated
caây cau, caây traø xanh, caây phöôïng, caây baøng... taïo with local elements. This means it should be suitable to the
ra moät ñoâ thò phía Nam keát noái vôùi ñoâ thò phía regional particularities, the characteristics of tropical climates
Baéc,vôùi soâng Höông laøm gaïch noái, vöøa haøi hoøa, and ensure effective methods for high aesthetic and necessary
vöøa toân troïng kieán truùc baûn ñòa, khoâng laán aùt, xaây hygiene conditions...”. I much appreciated his project as it’s
chen. Cuøng vôùi söï du nhaäp cuûa nhieàu phong caùch like the city planning we’re tending today and meet required
kieán truùc Phaùp nhö tieàn thöïc daân, taân coå ñieån, Art standards of “cos” in green cities which promote global sus-
Deco, kieán truùc Phaùp - Hoa vaø kieán truùc Neo tainable development. The planning focused on design of
Gothic... roads and infrastructure such as installing central median
strips, creating beauty to the streetscape with regional attrac-
- Moät soá coâng trình kieán truùc Phaùp vaãn coøn tive characteristics by planting trees and flowers, building
hieän höõu cho ñeán ngaøy nay nhö Toøa Coâng chaùnh - more public parks or open spaces, providing green routes to
Baûo taøng Vaên hoùa Hueá ngaøy nay, Ga Hueá, tröôøng address some negative influences of commuting, improve
the life quality... In residential quarters, it was stipulated that
Moät goùc phoá Taây - Kyù hoïa buùt saét houses had to be at least 8m from roads and 4m from side by
At a corner of the French Quarter - Iron Pen Sketching side houses, residential plot had size at least 600 m2... These
simple but comprehensive regulations expressed the correla-
tion between residential houses and public buildings, roads,
utility works (electricity, water supply), sewer systems as
well as trees... Besides, greenery for decoration was looked
after well and chosen from various kinds of plants (areca
palm, flamboyant, terminalia catappa...).After all, the French
created a new quarter in the South developing with available
Northern Capital, and Huong river was a “hyphen”.Although
the “European village” was designed in Western style (Neo-
classical, Art Deco, Neo Gothic Architecture...), it still fea-
tured the harmonious values of traditional architecture. Hav-
ing nothing imposed, it was quite wonderful in respect of
creation.

- There is a list of oldest well known surviving con-
structions in the French Quarter today including The Former

Böôùc chaäm beân doøng Höông Giang 277
A thoughtful walk by the Huong River

Chôû rau cuû ñeán chuøa Thaùnh Duyeân - Tranh sôn daàu
Carrying vegetables to Thanh Duyen Pagoda - Oil Painting

Quoác Hoïc, tröôøng Ñoàng Khaùnh nay laø tröôøng Hai Annam Public Works Service (Hue Cultural Museum),
Baø Tröng, Tu vieän Doøng Chuùa Cöùu Theá, Ñaøi Chieán Hue Railway Station, Quoc Hoc High School, Dong Khanh
só Traän vong, Vieän Daân bieåu Trung Kyø - Ñaïi hoïc High School (Hai Ba Trung High School), Redemptorist
Hueá ngaøy nay, tröôøng Thieân Höïu - tröôøng Ñaïi hoïc Church, Monument aux Morts, The Chamber of People’s
Khoa hoïc Hueá… Vaø moät soá kieán truùc cung ñieän, Representatives of Annam (Hue University), Thien Huu
vöông phuû cuõng chòu söï aûnh höôûng cuûa kieán truùc Catholic School (Hue University of Sciences)... and lots of
Phaùp nhö Laêng vua Khaûi Ñònh, Cung An Ñònh, laàu palaces, mausoleums partly influenced by French archi-
Kieán Trung... Beân caïnh ñoù nhieàu coâng trình cuõng ñaõ tecture such as Khai Dinh Royal Tomb, An Dinh Palace,
bò phaù boû. Kien Trung Palace... Undergoing historical changes, a few
colonial structures were completely dismantled.
Duø soáng ôû nöôùc ngoaøi, nhöng anh vaãn ñau
ñaùu nhôù veà Hueá. Anh traàm gioïng: Despite living abroad, Phien always looked back
and wallowed in a tender homesickness. He kept on
- Moät soá kieán truùc Phaùp hieän ñaõ bò phaù dôõ, thingking and talked to me with his pleasant voice:
moät soá thì bò thay ñoåi caûi taïo nhö khaùch saïn Morin,
Ngaân haøng Ñoâng Döông bò ñaäp boû ñeå xaây döïng - In recent years, the number of French buildings
Trung taâm Hoïc lieäu Ñaïi hoïc Hueá... in Hue has significantly decreased as many of them were

278 KTS Nguyeãn Ngoïc Duõng - Lang thang phoá thò 4
Architect Nguyen Ngoc Dung - WANDERING IN TOWNS 4

Vöøa lang thang ôû khu phoá Taây, vöøa nghe anh taken down or restored. The examples of dismantled build-
keå veà thôøi gian anh soáng, nhöõng ñieàu duø xöa cuõ vaãn ings were Chaffanjon shop at the corner of Ha Noi street,
gaây cho toâi söï toø moø vaø coù caûm giaùc nhoùi trong tim villas along Ly Thuong Kiet Street... Some were demol-
khi nhìn thaáy ngoâi nhaø kyû nieäm cuûa ba vaø anh toâi ñaõ ished and replated like Morin Hotel, Dong Duong bank
bò thaùo dôõ ñeå xaây döïng coâng trình thöông maïi, chung (Hue University Learning Resource Center)...
cö khaùc... Toâi thaáy nhôù ngöôøi cha cuûa mình vaø töï haøo
khi thaáy oâng töø moät thanh nieân ngheøo laøng Keá Voõ ñaõ Wandering in the French Quarter, Phien told me
vöôn thaúng ra khu phoá Taây, nhöng vaãn khoâng queân everything about his life and the happy time he spent with
nôi choân nhau caét roán. OÂng ñaõ trôû veà giuùp ngoâi laøng family. These stories seemed so old but gave me a deep
beù nhoû ñoù, nhöõng döï aùn daân sinh, nhöõng ngoâi tröôøng feeling when imagining how special they were. Although
öôm maàm töông lai nhieàu theá heä... the colonial structures, the house of Phien’s family... were
replated by other constructions serving community, I still
Ngöôøi Phaùp ñaõ xaây ôû ñaây moät thaønh phoá believe beautiful memories would certainly stay in our
töông ñoái ñeïp so vôùi theá giôùi hoài ñoù, nhöõng coâng mind whenever we recall them... I suddenly missed my
trình coøn laïi ñang ñöôïc söû duïng, truøng tu vaø boá trí dad. I am always proud of him when I think about his touch
caùc coâng naêng khaùc nhö baûo taøng, thö vieän... Chuùng times. Growing up from a small family in KeVo village, my
toâi taûn boä lang thang ñeán Trung taâm ngheä thuaät Leâ dad had overcome difficulties to earn a living here, with a
Baù Ñaûng (15 Leâ Lôïi, Vónh Ninh, Thaønh phoá Hueá). dream of success and getting back. Soon after his dream
Leâ Baù Ñaûng sinh taïi Quaûng Trò, sang Phaùp trong came true, he backed home and contributed to social projects,
nhöõng naêm 1939 trong phong traøo “Lính thôï” vaø ñaõ building schools helping old people as well as poor chil-
tham gia nhöõng ñoäi quaân choáng phaùt xít cuûa nöôùc dren in the village...
Phaùp, bò Ñöùc Quoác xaõ baét laøm tuø binh. OÂng theo hoïc
taïi Hoïc vieän Ngheä thuaät Toulouse vaø trôû thaønh moät In fact, the French had major impacts on building
hoïa só noåi tieáng ôû chaâu AÂu. Trieån laõm ñaàu tieân cuûa this peaceful civilized city. During the French Colonization,
oâng ra maét taïi Paris vaøo naêm 1950. Naêm 1989, oâng Hue developed more than what we had expected in the
nhaän giaûi thöôûng “Ngheä só coù taøi naêng lôùn vaø tö töôûng past. Some surviving structures are restored, rearranged
nhaân ñaïo” cuûa Vieän Quoác teá Saint Louis cuûa Myõ. and used for different functions like libraries, museums...
Naêm 1992, oâng ñöôïc Trung taâm Tieåu söû quoác teá We later walked to Le Ba Dang Art Foundation located at
thuoäc Ñaïi hoïc Cambridge cuûa Anh ñöa vaøo danh 15 Le Loi street - Hue city. Born in Quang Tri province, Mr
muïc nhöõng ngöôøi coù teân tuoåi cuûa theá giôùi. Naêm 1994, Le Ba Dang moved to France in 1939 where he joined the
oâng ñöôïc Chính phuû Phaùp taëng “Huaân chöông Vaên French army for fighting against German fascism, he was
hoùa ngheä thuaät Phaùp”, ñöôïc giôùi ngheä thuaät ñaùnh subsequently captured.After being released, he studied at
giaù laø baäc thaày cuûa hai theá giôùi Ñoâng - Taây. OÂng taïo the École des beaux-arts de Toulouse (Fine Arts School of
ra moät khaùi nieäm trong hoäi hoïa: “Khoâng gian Leâ Baù Toulouse) for few years, till his first show at Paris in 1950.
Ñaûng” (Le Ba Dang Espace)... Roài chuùng toâi gheù Mr Dang received various honours including the “Artist of
qua toøa bieät thöï Phaùp treân 100 tuoåi, hieän laø truï sôû Grand Talent and Humanity” award from the International
Lieân hieäp Hoäi Vaên hoïc - ngheä thuaät (soá 26 Leâ Lôïi, Institute of Saint Louis (USA, 1989). In 1992, Cambridge
phöôøng Vónh Ninh) ñöùng tröôùc nguy cô bò phaù boû ñeå University ranked him as one of the most important artists
laøm döï aùn khu phöùc hôïp khaùch saïn vaø dòch vuï thöông currently alive. For the next two years, the French govern-
maïi... Baûo taøng Vaên hoùa Hueá, tröôùc kia laø Toøa coâng ment granted him the “National Order for Literature and
Arts”. He was also considered the “Master of the Western

Böôùc chaäm beân doøng Höông Giang 279
A thoughtful walk by the Huong River

Söông sôùm - Kyù hoïa maøu nöôùc
The morning mist - Watercolor Sketching

chaùnh Trung Kyø (23-25 Leâ Lôïi, Vónh Ninh), moät and Eastern”, who created a concept in fine art called
kieán truùc Phaùp tuyeät ñeïp ñöôïc xaây döïng giai ñoaïn “Lebadang Spaces”... After sightseeing, we came to the
cuoái theá kyû XIX, ñaàu theá kyû XX... century-old villa at 26 Le Loi street, Hue city. Serving as
the headquarter of Hue Literature andArtAssociation, the
Chuùng toâi döøng laïi aên tröa ôû quaùn côm AÂm building is now at risk of being demolished because of a
Phuû vôùi moùn nem nöôùng noåi tieáng, cuøng vôùi canh caù new hotel project... We next visited Hue Cultural Museum
hanh ngon tuyeät. Sau ñoù, tieáp tuïc ñeán Trung taâm (23 - 25 Le Loi street - Hue city), which was formerly
Ngheä thuaät Ñieàm Phuøng Thò (1 Leâ Lôïi), anh giaûi known as The Former Annam Public Works Service - a
thích:

280 KTS Nguyeãn Ngoïc Duõng - Lang thang phoá thò 4
Architect Nguyen Ngoc Dung - WANDERING IN TOWNS 4

Möu sinh - Kyù hoïa maøu nöôùc
Earning a living - Watercolor Sketching

- Ñöôïc khaùnh thaønh thaùng 2.1994, vôùi 175 beautiful colonial structures constructed in the end of the
taùc phaåm, laø nhöõng taùc phaåm Ñieàm Phuøng Thò ñaõ 19th century...
taëng cho Thaønh phoá Hueá. Ñieàm Phuøng Thò, teân thaät
Phuøng Thò Cuùc, laø moät nhaø danh hoïa trong ngheä We stopped at Am Phu local restaurant for lunch
thuaät ñieâu khaéc theá giôùi töøng ñöôïc ghi danh trong Töø and didn’t forget to order a dish of lemongrass skewers as
ñieån Larousse: Ngheä thuaät theá kyû XX; Vieän só Thoâng well as a small bowl of fish soup, the specialities of re-
taán Vieän Haøn laâm Khoa hoïc, Vaên hoïc vaø Ngheä thuaät gional cuisine... After meal, we continued to Diem Phung
chaâu AÂu. Baø sinh ngaøy 18. 8.1920 taïi laøng Chaâu EÂ, Thi Arts Center (17 Le Loi street - Hue city), Phien ex-
xaõ Thuûy Baèng, ven ñoâ Hueá, laø con oâng Phuøng Duy plained:
Caån töøng tham gia vieäc xaây döïng Laêng Khaûi Ñònh...
- The art exhibition house officially inaugurated in
Rôøi baûo taøng, chuùng toâi ñi boä ñeán Trung taâm February 1994, houses 175 artworks donated by a re-
Dòch vuï du lòch festival, nôi naøy tröôùc kia laø Cercle nowned sculptor Mrs Diem Phung Thi. Madam Thi (Phung
Thi Cuc) was honourably recognized as a member of The

Böôùc chaäm beân doøng Höông Giang 281
A thoughtful walk by the Huong River

Sportif - Caâu laïc boä theå thao... Roài ñeán Nhaø maùy European Academy of Sciences and Arts, whose name
nöôùc Vaïn Nieân (L’Usine des Eaux), anh Phieân keå: was listed in LaRousse Dictionary of the 20th Century
Arts. She was born in August 1920 in Chau E village -
- Ñöôïc xaây caùch ñaây hôn 100 naêm, laø moät Thuy Bang commune, a suburb outside of Hue city. She is
trong ba nhaø maùy nöôùc ñaàu tieân ôû nöôùc ta, naêm 1909, the daughter of Ministry Phung Duy Can, who contributed
do kieán truùc sö Bossard thieát keá, gioáng nhö moät caùi to building Khai Dinh Royal Tomb.
laêng coå hoaëc moät caùi chuøa, haøi hoøa vôùi caûnh quan
khu vöïc Laêng Töï Ñöùc, ñoài Voïng Caûnh. Naêm 1885, Leaving the art center, we walked to Hue Tourism
ngöôøi Phaùp ñaët neàn ñoâ hoä, do yeâu caàu phaûi coù nöôùc and Festival Information Center (previously served as a
maùy ñeå phuïc vuï ngöôøi Phaùp ñeán laøm vieäc, cho trieàu sport club “Le Cercle Sportif”) and Van Nien Water Treat-
ñình vaø daân cö ñoâ thò Hueá, neân thaùng 12.1909, nhaø ment Plant (L’Usine des Eaux). Phien said:
maùy nöôùc Hueá ñöôïc xaây döïng ôû Vaïn Nieân, trong 2
naêm thì hoaøn thaønh bôûi nhaø thaàu Francois. Nhaø maùy -Van Nien is counted one of the oldest water treat-
nöôùc mang kieán truùc cuûa moät ngoâi chuøa nhoû vôùi 5 truï ment plants existing for over century in Central Vietnam.
bieåu, maùi ngoùi aâm döông, caùc ñaàu hoài uoán cong, oáng Designed by a talented architect Mr Bossard, this building’s
khoùi ñöôïc caùch ñieäu thaønh moät chieác buùt loâng vöôn more like a temple creating a harmonious combine with
leân neàn trôøi ñaày tinh teá... haøi hoøa vôùi caûnh quan soâng poetic scenery of Tu Duc’s Tomb, Vong Canh Hill... In
Höông. Töøng chi tieát nhoû theå hieän söï toân troïng caûnh 1885, the French established colonial rules in Annam. For
quan, vaên hoùa baûn ñòa cuûa nhöõng kieán truùc sö ngöôøi higher demands of water supply serving French colonists,
Phaùp baáy giôø. Gioáng nhö caùch laøm ôû Phaùp, nöôùc royal family and civilians, the construction started in De-
ñöôïc laáy töø soâng Höông, chöùa trong moät caùi phoøng cember 1909. It was carried out by contractor Francois and
naèm saâu döôùi ñaát, ñaët gaàn heä thoáng maùy bôm vaø seõ finished in 1911. The Oriental - styled building with curved
ñöôïc loïc saïch baèng caùt... edges is roofed by double titles and supported by five
columns. Its chimney is delicately stylized to imitate a pen
Ngoài uoáng cafeù beân bôø soâng Höông, anh toward the blue sky. Each decorative element expresses
Phieân chæ tay veà phía xa thöôïng nguoàn, nôi ñoù coù respect to the landscape, local culture and custom... Van
nhöõng kyû nieäm cuûa anh thôøi tham gia höôùng ñaïo: ñoù Nien water treatment plant operates in the same way to
laø Ñoài Voïng Caûnh. Chuùng toâi ngoài im laëng haøng giôø. water distribution systems in France. In particular, raw
Nhöõng thöôùc phim thôøi gian chieáu chaäm löôùt qua, water is pumped from the Huong river, the water flows
bao naêm roài Hueá vaãn vaäy, vaãn caûnh vaät, doøng soâng, into the sedimentation tank, then it is transferred to the
ngoïn nuùi aáy, nhöng nhöõng ngöôøi thaân yeâu nhaát cuûa rapid filter tank with the sand filter...
mình ñaõ maõi maõi rôøi xa
Drinking coffee at Terrace Cafeù near the river-
side, Phien gently looked at the upriver site where he
weaved lots of memories as a boy scout. That was the
beauty of Vong Canh hill. I couldn’t remember how much
time we spent in silence. We stayed there, just to think and
recall sweet time we had. Our Hue has not changed even
for a long time. Slow motion of the Huong river, the sunny
mountains, peaceful landscape... everything is completely
intact, except our beloved people who have gone so far
away...

282 KTS Nguyeãn Ngoïc Duõng - Lang thang phoá thò 4
Architect Nguyen Ngoc Dung - WANDERING IN TOWNS 4

Hoaøng hoân treân ñöôøng laøng - Kyù hoïa maøu nöôùc
Beautiful sunset in villages - Watercolor Sketching