The GrillingIssue
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TABLE TALK 11 BASICALLY Going big on basil. BY ANTARA SINHA 16 DINNER’S SERVED Spicy jerk shrimp, mustardy cabbage and kielbasa, and more hot-and-fast weeknight grilling recipes. 26 SWEET SPOT A sour cherry crumb cake destined to be the pageant queen of the picnic potluck. 30 REFRIGERATOR RAID What’s in Canadian chef Matty Matheson’s fridge? (Hint: There’s a lot of dairy.) AS TOLD TO ALI FRANCIS V O L U M E 6 8 N U M B E R 6 August Table of Contents 32 PICK OF THE PANTRY The fiery delights of canned red curry paste. BY RACHEL GURJAR 36 SMALL PLATES, BIG OPINIONS Choose-your-own-adventure meals are television host Molly Yeh’s trick for satisfying adults and kids alike. AS TOLD TO DORKYS RAMOS 41 THE GETAWAY Author Yasmin Khan shares her dreamy sun-kissed guide to Cyprus, an island where the food is as exciting as the terrain. 44 ALL ON THE TABLE For author Adrienne Brodeur, romantic chemistry hinges on culinary compatibility. O N T H E C O V E R Chinese Barbecue Pork Chops (for recipe, see p. 54). Photograph by Isa Zapata. Food styling by Shuai Wang. Prop styling by Megan Forbes and Christina Hussey. FEATURES 46 KING OF THE GRILL Fire up the grill for a Chinese American menu with roots in South Carolina’s Lowcountry from chef Shuai Wang. 56 FARMERS MARKET CHALLENGE Produce-driven recipes featuring just five ingredients. BY KELSEY YOUNGMAN RECIPES BY RACHEL GURJAR AND ZAYNAB ISSA 64 THE JOY OF COOKING WITH APPLIANCES Our test kitchen editors’ highly opinionated guide to the equipment they can’t live without—and recipes that’ll make you into a true believer. 78 MARINADE ON IT Whether you have 15 minutes or eight hours, these flavorful marinades make the most of the time you’ve got. BY KENDRA VACULIN IN EVERY ISSUE 6 FROM THE EDITOR 86 RECIPE INDEX 88 DREAM DINNER PARTY For actor-comedian Kevin Hart, dinner is serious business. BY DAWN DAVIS A view of Aphrodite’s Rock on Cyprus’s southern coast P.41 PHOTOGRAPH BY MARCO ARGÜELLO
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4 AUGUST 2023 Old City splendor in Nicosia, Cyprus P. 41 PHOTOGRAPH BY MARCO ARGÜELLO Executive Editor SONIA CHOPRA Director of Editorial Operations NICK TRAVERSE Food Director CHRIS MOROCCO Editor in Chief DAWN DAVIS VIDEO Head of Digital Video JUNE KIM Executive Producer LAUREN BRENNER Director of Programming JONATHAN WISE Senior Director of Creative Development DAN SIEGEL Directors of Creative Development MARIA PAZ MENDEZ HODES, IAN STROUD Associate Director of Creative Development, Social ADAM MOUSSA Director of Content ALI INGLESE Director of Culinary Production KELLY JANKE Culinary Producer MALLARY SANTUCCI Culinary Researcher & Recipe Editor VIVIAN JAO Programming Manager JILLIAN MATT Directors GUNSEL PEHLIVAN, CHRIS PRINCIPE Producers MEL IBARRA, PARISA KOSARI, TYRE NOBLES, LISA PARADISE, TOMMY WERNER EDITORIAL Editorial Director SERENA DAI Digital Director SASHA LEVINE Senior Editors, Cooking EMMA LAPERRUQUE, KELSEY YOUNGMAN Restaurant Editor ELAZAR SONTAG Culture Editor KAREN YUAN Editor, Cooking & SEO JOE SEVIER Editor JENNIFER HOPE CHOI Staff Writers ALI FRANCIS, SAM STONE Associate Editor, Cooking ANTARA SINHA Associate Editor, Cooking & SEO ZOE DENENBERG Digital Operations Associate ALMA AVALLE Editorial Operations Associate KATE KASSIN Digital Production Assistant LI GOLDSTEIN Editorial Assistant NINA MOSKOWITZ Recipe Production Assistant CARLY WESTERFIELD Entertainment Director CAITLIN BRODY Editorial Intern KAT CHEN Contributing Editors HILARY CADIGAN, ELYSE INAMINE, AMANDA SHAPIRO, AMIEL STANEK Associate Director, Commerce EMILY JOHNSON Senior Commerce Editor MACKENZIE CHUNG FEGAN Associate Commerce Editor MEGAN WAHN Commerce Writer TIFFANY HOPKINS Commerce Producer ALAINA CHOU DESIGN & PHOTOGRAPHY Associate Creative Director CAROLINE NEWTON Visuals Director JOSÉ GINARTE Art Director HAZEL ZAVALA Art Assistant JULIA DUARTE Associate Visuals Editor MARC WILLIAMS Staff Photographer ISA ZAPATA PRODUCTION, COPY, & RESEARCH Production Managers MATT CARSON, KATE FENOGLIO Copy Director GREG ROBERTSON Copy Manager BRIAN CARROLL Research Director RYAN HARRINGTON Contributing Research Editor MARISSA WOLKENBERG SOCIAL & AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT Global Director of Audience Development, Analytics, & Social Media MATT DOMINO Associate Director, Social Media URMILA RAMAKRISHNAN Senior Manager, Social Media ESRA EROL Associate Manager, Social Media OLIVIA QUINTANA Associate Analytics Director CLARA CHEN TEST KITCHEN Deputy Food Editor HANA ASBRINK Food Editor SHILPA USKOKOVIC Associate Food Editors RACHEL GURJAR, ZAYNAB ISSA, KENDRA VACULIN Test Kitchen Coordinator INÉS ANGUIANO Senior Recipe Editor LIESEL DAVIS Recipe Editor JONATHAN MILDER
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Editor in chief Dawn Davis shares what’s on her mind and gets a little help and intel from the BA test kitchen PHOTOGRAPHS: ISA ZAPATA (ICE CREAM); COURTESY SANT’ANGELO RESORT (ITALY). FOOD STYLING BY JUDY KIM (ICE CREAM). PROP STYLING BY GÖZDE EKER (ICE CREAM). For years I dreamed of traveling to Puglia, the region that makes up the heel of Italy. With towns full of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, ancient breadmaking techniques, and quaint repurposed farmhouses, it did not disappoint. But the real surprise and delight was the city of Matera, which is just west of Puglia and well worth the detour. The whole town seems to be carved out of limestone, including some remarkable churches, restaurants, and hotels. The Sant’Angelo Luxury Resort, where I stayed, includes stylish rooms built into ancient cave dwellings, making for thrilling accommodations and a perfect home base from which to explore the town’s rich and riveting history. Don’t miss the pasta (or the views) at Regiacorte, the resort’s lovely restaurant. Q: Our test kitchen has some very strong opinions about kitchen appliances (page 64). One tidbit from that story stopped me in my tracks: In Shilpa Uskokovic’s ode to the ice cream maker, she teased that she also uses it for frozen margaritas. Storage space is at a premium in my apartment and I don’t often make room for single-use appliances. But if an ice cream maker can also churn out drinks that are refreshing on a blistering day, I’m here for it. Can you share how, exactly, one might Food director Chris Morocco says: To me, frozen drinks are pure joy, from the watermelon slushies I used to buy from the convenience store as a kid to the crystalline bliss of a frozen cocktail. An ice cream machine is great for these since it actually has a lot in common with frozen drink machines. It produces icy drinks with better texture and more concentrated flavor than those blitzed in a blender and doesn’t require any additional ice. To make about 8 (fairly strong!) margaritas, combine 2 cups tequila, 1 cup fresh lime juice, ¾ cup triple sec (or simple syrup), a pinch of kosher salt, and 1 cup water in an ice cream maker. Spin until the texture is slushy and the mixture holds its shape. Scoop into glasses with a ladle and serve. Pistachio-flecked cannoli ice cream P.77 What I’ m Loving The rustic-chic resort that made my trip FromtheEditor
A heavenly lavender scent heightens the joy of strolling the villages and cities of Provence. Delighting in landscapes that inspired the likes of Van Gogh, Matisse and Chagall, you toast your fragrant excursion with a glass of local Sauvignon Blanc and a simple meal of Mediterranean perfection. Back on board, you savor this delicious memory while dreaming of more to come, all amongst the unrivaled space and consummate service found only aboard The World’s Most Luxurious Fleet™. ICONIC EXPLORATIONS Free Land Program* on select 2024 sailings to Alaska & Europe Offer expires August 31, 2023 START YOUR JOURNEY AT RSSC.COM CALL 1.844.473.4368 OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR EXPLORE THE UNRIVALED™ *For applicable sailings and full Terms and Conditions, please visit RSSC.com/legal
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AUGUST 2023 11 A BAS ICAL LY GUIDE TO : BAS I L RESTAURANTS, TRAVEL, and FOOD FOR THOUGHT TEST KITCHEN TIPS, RECIPES, and RECOMMENDATIONS Pesto may be the first thing (and one of the best things) that comes to mind when we think of basil, but this tender herb is no one-trick pony. Read on to unlock its full potential.
Basically Now’s the time to buy basil by the bundle and use it by the handful Basil Basics FOOD STYLING BY TANEKA MORRIS BASIL 101 The dog days of summer are just as synonymous with the peppery, lush smell of basil as they are with sudden thunderstorms and jangly ice-cream-truck jingles. This versatile, tender herb is a member of the Lamiaceae family, which also contains mint, sage, and thyme. Its many varieties range in flavor from citrus to licorice, and they are equally at home in caprese salads as they are scattered over pho. Sure, you can buy those little clamshells of basil year-round, but late summer, when farmers markets and CSA boxes are overflowing with it, is the best time to enjoy it with abandon. KEEP IT FRESH For basil you plan on using up within a day or two, rinse in cold water, pat dry, tightly wrap in a slightly damp paper towel, and store in a plastic bag in your fridge for up to three days. For basil you’d like to keep around for a little longer, take the extra time for this setup that food director Chris Morocco swears by: Trim the ends of the stems as you would a bouquet of flowers and then place in a tall glass or vase of water. Loosely cover the basil with a plastic bag and keep it in a shaded corner of your counter, changing out the water every two days. Like flowers, your basil stalks can last anywhere from five days to over a week. BY ANTARA SINHA PHOTOGRAPHS BY ISA ZAPATA SHADES OF GREEN There’s a whole wide world of basil out there. While the plant is believed to have originated in Asia (there’s some dispute on whether it first came from present-day China or India), it’s been cultivated and beloved for the past 5,000 years in all corners of the world. As a result, there are many different types of basil, with a delicious range of flavors and uses. Here are a few of the most common. Sweet Italian True to its name, this easy-to-find type is often used in Mediterranean cooking and is beloved for its mild, lemony, and, well, sweet flavor. You’ll know it by its plush light green leaves that bruise easily and its tender, flexible stems. Thai Thai basil tastes mildly spicy, with aromas of anise and licorice. With hardier purple stems and ribbed, pointed dark green leaves that are sturdier than sweet basil’s, Thai basil stands up well to high-heat cooking applications like stir-fries. Tulsi Also known as holy basil, this type is mildly astringent, with a distinctly peppery, almost cinnamon-like flavor. It’s cultivated for religious purposes by Hindus and for its purported medicinal benefits in Ayurveda. Holy basil has hardy stems, small leaves, and purple flowers, and is often used in Southeast Asian cooking and steeped in teas. Dark Opal Depending on how much sun the plant gets, this one ranges from a deep eggplant purple to almost black, with a sweet-spicy clovelike aroma. It’s a stunner when used fresh, like in salads where its color can shine or as a garnish for cocktails, and turns almost completely black after cooking.
Table Talk REFUSE TO BRUISE Basil leaves are delicate and bruise easily. This happens when the cell walls burst from the pressure of a dull knife (or being shoved to the bottom of your tote bag by a carton of eggs). While intentionally bruising basil has its place—muddling leaves into a cocktail, for example—if you’re looking for ribbons of vibrant green to garnish salads and plates of pasta, an exceptionally sharp knife is key. If you’re doubting your knives’ sharpness, you’re better off using the basil leaves whole or tearing them by hand. STEMS AND ALL Yes, you do need to pick basil leaves from their tough stems before using— especially when they’re mature or of a hardier variety like Thai basil or holy basil, both of which can be very woody. But don’t toss them! Those stems are still full of flavor that is worth harnessing. Infuse: Stuff those basil stems into a jar of white wine vinegar and let the mixture infuse in your fridge for a couple days to up to a few weeks. Use in flavorful mignonette sauces, pour into tart summer shrubs, and splash onto grilled meat or fish. Steep: Save leftover basil stems in your freezer to add a little extra fragrant oomph to a pot of sinus-clearing ginger-lemon tea (summer colds are a very real thing!) or to pots of chicken stock. Sizzle: Next time you’re tempering spices or heating oil in a pan for a stir-fry or sauté, add whole basil stems so they can perfume the oil. It’s an easy way to harness every bit of their fragrance; just pluck out the stems before adding other aromatics or right before serving.
14 AUGUST 2023 BA’S BEST PESTO Preheat oven to 350°. Toast ½ cup pine nuts on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing halfway through, until golden brown, 5–7 minutes. Transfer to a food processor and let cool. Add 2 garlic cloves, finely grated, and 3 oz. Parmesan, finely grated; cover processor and pulse until finely ground, about 1 minute. Add 6 cups basil leaves (from about 3 bunches) and, with the motor running, gradually pour in ¾ cup extravirgin olive oil in a steady stream; process until pesto is mostly smooth with some flecks of green, about 1 minute. Pulse in 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt. DO AHEAD: Pesto can be made 1 day ahead. Transfer to an airtight container and top with ½" oil to prevent browning. Cover and chill. Makes about 1½ cups BEYOND PASTA Pesto pasta is an undeniably perfect food, but there are so many other glorious ways to use up a batch of pesto beyond good old noodles. •Spoon over pan-seared or baked fish. •Dollop onto fried eggs. •Swirl into soups. •Coat veggies like carrots, cauliflower, or broccoli after roasting. •Spread on sandwiches. •Toss with cooked grains like farro, basmati rice, or millet before serving.
MY THREE FAVORITE ICE CREAMS ARE THE SAME ONE i c e c r e a m MOREIS MORE
16 AUGUST 2023 FOOD STYLING BY MICAH MORTON. PROP STYLING BY T IM FERRO. Hot & Fast Q UICK AND EASY WE EKNIGHT MEAL S PHOTOGRAPHS BY ISA ZAPATA Dinner’s Served Table Talk It’s a pleasure to spend a whole day grilling: Invite some pals over, fill a cooler with ice and bevs, and slowly replenish a few plates of flame-licked meats and vegetables over the course of many hours. But weeknights are still fair game for lighting the barbecue. One of the best things about cooking food over fire—along with char lines and delightfully smoky flavor—is that it can happen fast. These recipes pair quick-cooking proteins with sides that also get the grill treatment, making the most of your time outside. In case it (literally) rains on your parade, we’ve got indoor cooking instructions too. —Kendra Vaculin
© 2023 Reynolds Consumer Products LLC S TEA K FAJITA S WITH VE G E TA BLES EASY PREP. EASY COOK. EASY CLEAN. Tough and durable to prevent rips and tears. It’s dinner made easy.
18 AUGUST 2023 Dinner’s Served Table Talk Wrapped in a foil packet, seasoned small potatoes get perfectly tender in just under half an hour on the grill. Dill brings some welcome freshness to the plate, so don’t be shy with it RECIPE BY KENDRA VACULIN MUSTARDY GRILLED CABBAGE AND KIELBASA sheet; roast until just tender enough to pierce with a knife, 25–30 minutes. Remove from oven. Heat broiler. Add dressed cabbage and kielbasa to baking sheet with potatoes; broil, turning halfway through, until cabbage is tender and charred in spots and kielbasa is browned, 10–14 minutes. 4 SERVINGS Vegetable oil (for grill) 1 lb. small red potatoes, halved, quartered if larger 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt ½ tsp. garlic powder ½ tsp. smoked paprika 4 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. extravirgin olive oil, divided Freshly ground pepper 1 Tbsp. mayonnaise 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 3 Tbsp. whole grain mustard, divided 1 small head of savoy cabbage, cut through core into 2"–3"-thick wedges 1 12-oz. kielbasa, quartered crosswise, then halved lengthwise 3 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar Torn dill (for serving) 1. Prepare a grill for mediumhigh heat; oil grate with vegetable oil. Combine potatoes, salt, garlic powder, paprika, and 3 Tbsp. olive oil in a medium bowl, season generously with pepper, and toss to combine. Scrape out onto a large sheet of foil; reserve bowl. Bring foil edges together to make a packet; crimp to seal tightly. Place on grate; cook potatoes until tender, 25–28 minutes. 2. Whisk mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, 1 Tbsp. whole grain mustard, and 1 Tbsp. olive oil in reserved bowl to combine. Rub mayonnaise mixture over cabbage, working between leaves; reserve bowl. Grill cabbage, turning halfway through, until tender and both cut sides have deep brown marks, 7–9 minutes. Transfer to a platter. 3. Grill kielbasa, turning halfway through, until charred in spots, about 10 minutes. Transfer to same platter. 4. Whisk vinegar, remaining 2 Tbsp. whole grain mustard, and remaining 1 tsp. olive oil in reserved bowl. Set dressing aside. 5. Arrange potatoes on top of kielbasa and cabbage. Drizzle reserved dressing over. Scatter dill on top and season with more pepper. To make without a grill: Preheat oven to 400°. Spread seasoned potatoes out on a foil-lined rimmed baking
20 AUGUST 2023 Dinner’s Served Table Talk Instead of a ground spice blend, choose a jerk seasoning paste like Walkerswood to act as an instant marinade for juicy shrimp that develop smoky char on the grill RECIPE BY INÉS ANGUIANO JERK SHRIMP WITH PINEAPPLE SALAD on other side. Broil, turning halfway through, until shrimp are opaque and pineapple is blistered in spots, about 5 minutes. 46 SERVINGS ¼ cup mild jerk seasoning paste (such as Walkerswood) 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil, plus more for grill 2 lb. large shrimp, peeled, deveined 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more Freshly ground pepper 1 medium pineapple, peeled, cored, sliced into ½"-thick rounds ½ medium red onion, thinly sliced 1 Persian cucumber, halved, thinly sliced 1 cup finely chopped cilantro ⅓ cup fresh lime juice SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: Eight 8"-long metal skewers or bamboo skewers soaked 30 minutes in water 1. Whisk jerk seasoning and 1 Tbsp. oil in a medium bowl. Add shrimp and lightly season with salt and pepper; toss to coat. Cover and chill at least 30 minutes and up to 8 hours. 2. Meanwhile, prepare a grill for medium heat; oil grate. Grill pineapple slices, turning halfway through, until tender and there are deep brown marks on both sides, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let cool slightly. 3. Cut pineapple into ¼" pieces; place in a large bowl. Add red onion, cucumber, cilantro, lime juice, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt; toss well. 4. Thread shrimp onto skewers. Grill until opaque and lightly charred, 3–4 minutes per side. 5. Spoon pineapple salad onto plates with a slotted spoon, then top with shrimp. Spoon any juices left in bowl over shrimp. To make without a grill: Heat broiler. Spread marinated shrimp out on one side of a rimmed baking sheet (do not skewer); arrange pineapple
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22 AUGUST 2023 Dinner’s Served Table Talk Turkish adana kebabs serve as inspiration for this easy free-form version. A splash of water and some vigorous mixing helps achieve the ideal bouncy, juicy end result RECIPE BY SHILPA USKOKOVIC FREEFORM KEBABS WITH HERBY ONIONS 1 cup herbs, 1 Tbsp. sumac, 1 Tbsp. olive oil, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt in bowl and toss to combine. 8. Spoon onion salad next to kebabs. Serve with pickles and reserved yogurt sauce. To make without a grill: Heat a dry grill pan over high. Cook kebabs until browned all over and cooked through, about 7 minutes per side. 4 SERVINGS 2 cups mixed torn tender herbs (such as parsley, cilantro, and/or dill), divided 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 serrano chile, finely chopped (optional) 1 Tbsp. paprika 2 tsp. ground cumin ¼ tsp. baking soda 3 Tbsp. sumac, divided, plus more for sprinkling 4 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 2¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided 1 lb. ground lamb or beef (20% fat) Vegetable oil (for grill) 1 cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for drizzling 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced Lavash or large flour tortillas and garlicky pickles (for serving) 1. Finely chop 1 cup herbs; transfer to a large bowl. Add garlic, chile (if using), paprika, cumin, baking soda, 2 Tbsp. sumac, 2½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and ¹⁄₃ cup cold water and stir to combine. Add meat and mix vigorously with your hands until spices are evenly distributed and mixture is smooth and beginning to stick to the sides of bowl. 2. Divide meat mixture into 4 equal portions and shape each into a 7"-long log. Pat to flatten slightly and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Cover loosely with plastic wrap; chill at least 15 minutes and up to 12 hours. 3. Prepare a grill for high heat; oil grate with vegetable oil. Mix yogurt, 1 Tbsp. olive oil, and ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a small bowl to combine. Drizzle yogurt sauce with a little more olive oil, then sprinkle a large pinch of sumac over. Set aside. 4. Place red onion in a medium bowl of ice water and let soak while you grill the kebabs and lavash. 5. Grill kebabs, turning once, until browned all over and cooked through, about 5 minutes per side. (Look for juices pooling on the surface.) Transfer to a cutting board and slice on a diagonal into large pieces. Place on a platter. 6. Grill lavash until warmed through, about 30 seconds per side. Transfer to platter. 7. Drain onion. Wipe out bowl and combine onion, remaining
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24 AUGUST 2023 Dinner’s Served Table Talk This vinegary chicken marinade leans on spice-cabinet stalwarts to make a quick brine that delivers juicy meat with a sweet-and-tangy finish in just 15 minutes RECIPE BY HANA ASBRINK EASYTOLOVE CHICKEN THIGHS AND COUSCOUS 7. Slice chicken and arrange over salad. Top with basil and serve with lemon wedges. To make without a grill: Heat broiler. Place a wire rack inside a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Brush rack with vegetable oil. Place corn on rack; broil until tender and charred in spots, 8–10 minutes. Transfer to cutting board; let rest. Remove chicken from marinade, letting excess drip back into bag, and arrange, smoother side up, on same rack. Broil, turning once, until golden brown, 12–14 minutes. 46 SERVINGS 3 Tbsp. sugar ¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar or red wine vinegar 1 Tbsp. plus ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 2 tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided, plus more 1 Tbsp. onion powder 2 tsp. garlic powder 2 tsp. paprika 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for brushing 1½ lb. skinless, boneless chicken thighs (about 6) 1 cup Israeli couscous Vegetable oil (for grill) 2 medium ears of corn, shucked 12 oz. cherry tomatoes, halved Freshly ground pepper 1 lemon Basil leaves (for serving) 1. Whisk sugar, ¼ cup vinegar, and 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a small bowl until sugar and salt are mostly dissolved. Whisk in onion powder, garlic powder, paprika, and 1 Tbsp. olive oil. 2. Pour marinade into a large resealable plastic bag. Add chicken, close bag, and turn to coat. Let sit at room temperature 15 minutes, or chill, turning occasionally, up to 12 hours. 3. Meanwhile, heat 1 Tbsp. olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high. Add Israeli couscous and cook, stirring to coat, until golden brown, 1–2 minutes. Carefully pour in 1¼ cups water and add ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt; stir well. Bring to a boil; immediately reduce heat to low and cover. Simmer until tender, 8–10 minutes. Remove lid, gently fluff, and let sit to allow excess moisture to evaporate. 4. Meanwhile, prepare grill for medium-high heat; oil grate with vegetable oil. Brush corn with olive oil; grill, turning often, until tender and charred in spots, 7–9 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let cool. Cut kernels from corn cobs and place in a medium bowl. 5. Remove chicken from marinade, letting excess drip back into bag. Grill, reducing heat or moving to a cooler spot if charring too quickly, until cooked through and well browned, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer to cutting board and let rest 10 minutes. 6. Add tomatoes and Israeli couscous to corn and toss to combine. Drizzle in remaining 1 Tbsp. vinegar and 1 Tbsp. olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss again. Transfer couscous salad to a platter. Finely grate lemon zest over, then cut lemon into wedges. Season salad with more pepper.
SEAL IT WITH A SLIDE
Sweet Spot FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES. PROP STYLING BY BETH PAKRADOONI. STREUSE L Whisk flour, brown sugar, salt, cardamom, and cinnamon in a medium bowl. Pour butter over and gently mix with a fork just until crumbs start to form (be careful not to overmix). Set streusel aside. CAKE AND ASSEMBLY Place a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 350°. Line a 13x9" baking pan with parchment paper, leaving overhang on long sides. Whisk flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl to combine. Beat granulated sugar and butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add eggs one at a time, mixing to incorporate after each addition. Mix in sour cream, buttermilk, and vanilla. (The mixture might look curdled at this point.) Reduce speed to low and add dry ingredients; mix until just combined. Using a rubber spatula, scrape down sides of bowl to incorporate everything well. (The batter will be thick.) Scrape two thirds of the batter into prepared pan and spread into an even layer. Spread cherry swirl over (don’t worry if it’s not perfect), then top with remaining batter. Do your best to spread the batter over cherry swirl; it’s okay if they mix and swirl a bit. Top with reserved streusel, scattering smaller crumbs over first, then topping with larger ones. Bake crumb cake until a tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 35–40 minutes. Transfer pan to a wire rack and let cake cool in pan at least 30 minutes. Turn cake out onto a cutting board and cut into 12 pieces to serve. DO AHEAD: Cake can be baked 1 day ahead. Let cool completely. Store tightly wrapped at room temperature. Under that layer of irresistible streusel hides ribbons of smashed sour cherries Mon Cherry BY ZAYNAB ISSA PHOTOGRAPH BY RANA DÜZYOL SOUR CHERRY CRUMB CAKE 12 SERVINGS Whether you call it crumb cake or coffee cake or can’t actually talk because you already started eating it, there is just nothing better than a plush, buttery cake topped with crispy crumbly bits of goodness. Adding a jammy swirl of sweet-tart cherries to the batter results in a summery twist on an otherwise evergreen classic. CHERRY SWIRL 1½ lb. fresh sour cherries, pitted, or frozen ½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt STREUSEL 1¼ cups (156 g) all-purpose flour 1 cup (200 g; packed) light brown sugar 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt 1 tsp. ground cardamom 1 tsp. ground cinnamon ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted, slightly cooled CAKE AND ASSEMBLY 2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour 1 tsp. baking powder 1 tsp. baking soda 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt 1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature 2 large eggs 1 cup sour cream ⅓ cup buttermilk 2 tsp. vanilla extract CHERRY SWIRL Bring cherries, granulated sugar, and salt to a boil in a medium saucepan. Cook, stirring often and smashing cherries with a wooden spoon, until cherries are softened and just coated in syrup, 15–20 minutes for fresh, 25–30 minutes for frozen. Let cool.
Table Talk AUGUST 2023 27 CAN’T FIND SOUR CHERRIES? You can use sweet ones! Simply reduce the sugar in the cherry swirl to ¼ cup and mix in the zest and juice of 1 lemon after it has cooled.
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Table Talk 30 AUGUST 2023 What’ s inMattyMatheson ’ sFridge? me at home too. I’ll put it on a mortadella sandwich, a tuna melt, hot dogs, and cheeseburgers. 6. NONALCOHOLIC BEER At the very back of the fridge we have two Champagne bottles that have probably been in there for years. No idea what that’s about. I’ve been sober since 2013, so I’m certainly not drinking Champagne anytime soon. But I’ll buy Heineken or Peroni 0.0, and if it’s really nice out, I might have one sitting in a lawn chair or at dinner. 7. YELLOW ONIONS Without onions I think a lot of food would be pretty s**t. They create a robust depth of flavor like nothing else on planet Earth. I use them in spaghetti, curry, soup, fajitas—literally everything. Hell, I’d put onions in toothpaste. 8. THICKCUT BACON Trish makes a hot breakfast every single weekday for the kids. And on Sundays I make a full English breakfast, so we buy an absurd amount of thick-cut bacon. It’s good for us. We’re strong and thick in the Matheson house. 1 2 3 8 6 7 4 5 AS TOLD TO ALI FRANCIS PHOTOGRAPH BY ISA ZAPATA In Hulu’s comedy-drama series The Bear, he plays a lovable restaurant handyman. In the food world, the 41-year-old Canadian chef is known for his irreverent (very sweary) YouTube videos and maximalist recipes—a vibe he’s spun off into restaurants, cookbooks, and clothing lines. But when he’s home with his wife and three kids in rural Ontario, Matheson is all about making low-key, comforting meals. Here we’ve mocked up a fridge featuring his everyday staples. 1. FOUR POUNDS OF BUTTER, A TUB OF CREAM CHEESE, AND A BOTTLE OF TABLE CREAM We’re a dairy-heavy family. The kids love making cookies, cupcakes, or pancakes with my wife, Trish. And I have Folgers coffee with cream when I’m home. Folgers is good when it’s creamy. Ever since we left Toronto for a small town, all I want is a real cup of joe. 2. CONGEE I make a lot of congee, with rice, chicken stock, ginger, and garlic and keep the leftovers in the fridge. The kids eat it plain (life’s too tough; they need a little softness), but Trish and I will add a fried egg with chili crisp. 3. RED PEPPER JELLY I buy red pepper jelly whenever I’m at the store, thinking I’m going to make baked Brie. Trish will be like, “What are you doing?” I’m like, “I’m going to eat it this time!” And she’s like, “No, you’re not.” But my mom bought it when I was growing up—probably because it seemed kind of fancy or something—so it reminds me of her. 4. ORANGE JUICE We always have Tropicana. Our youngest daughter slams juice. She’ll shake her empty cup at me and be like, “Where’s my juicy?” She’s a juicy monster. We dilute it with water, and she knows. But I’m not giving a kid goddamn straight juice—she’ll be running through the walls. 5. GIARDINIERA I’ve spent so much time in Chicago filming The Bear that now I need a little jar of Marconi Giardiniera with Refrigerator Raid
Pick of the Pantry 32 AUGUST 2023 Table Talk You might assume that since I cook for a living I make everything from scratch. While that may be the case most of the time (my butter chicken recipe is complex and uncompromising), the truth is, after a long workday, flavorful shortcuts are always welcome. Store-bought Thai curry paste is what I turn to most often. It’s packed with fragrant ingredients that would take hoursto source and process on my own yet adds depth to dishes one speedy spoonful at a time. Though there are plenty of options to choose from, Maesri is the only brand you’ll find stacked in my pantry. This Thai company offers over 12 different curry paste flavors, but in my opinion the red is the most versatile. Its blend of layered aromatics and spices is bursting with rich, savory character. As soon as you open the can, you’ll smell hints of lemongrass, galangal, and makrut lime leaf. Unlike other curry paste brands, Maesri doesn’t use any citric acid or artificial preservatives, which tend to leave a distinct, lingering aftertaste. Most important, there’s a legit level of heat in a small but mighty 4-ounce can. You could, of course, simmer it with coconut milk for a better-than-average Thai curry. But this ruddy paste holds untold potential. Use it to spice up chicken salad; sub it in for tomato paste to make a bright, lively pasta sauce; or pair with chewy rice cakes and pork for a stellar weeknight stir-fry. For safety purposes the recipes here are a 5 out of 10 when it comes to spiciness—you should feel some zip, but you won’t be running for a glass of milk. If you’re sensitive to heat, start with one tablespoon and increase from there. Any leftover paste can be stored in an airtight container in the fridge. Get creative with it: Whisk the rest into mayo for a fancy aioli or stir it into coconut milk for a warming broth. But if you’re twisted like me (I enjoy the feeling of my insides burning), throw in the whole can and supplement with additional fresh chiles to kick up the fire several more notches. GET THE GOODS Your local Asian grocery store will likely carry Maesri products, but you can also purchase a stash online from the usual big retailers. Canned Heat Store-bought Thai curry paste is a pantry shortcut we can get behind—and one brand rules them all BY RACHEL GURJAR PHOTOGRAPHS BY ISA ZAPATA ILLUSTRAT ION BY CARLY JEAN ANDREWS. FOOD STYLING BY EMILIE FOSNOCHT. PROP STYLING BY EMMA RINGNESS.
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Pick of the Pantry 34 AUGUST 2023 RED CURRY PASTA 4 SERVINGS This ode to pasta alla vodka brings in unexpected levels of flavor and intensity by using red curry paste instead of tomato paste. Finishing with coconut milk and lemon juice rather than heavy cream and vodka adds extra layers of complexity to the clingy, rich sauce. 1 lb. spaghetti Kosher salt 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil 2 medium shallots, thinly sliced 6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 4-oz. can red curry paste (preferably Maesri) 1 13.5-oz. can unsweetened coconut milk 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice Thinly sliced scallion greens and lemon wedges (for serving) Cook spaghetti in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until just shy of al dente, about 1 minute less than package directions. Meanwhile, heat oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium. Cook shallots and garlic, stirring often, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add curry paste and cook, stirring often, until paste is fragrant and slightly darkened and beginning to stick to bottom of pot, about 3 minutes. Pour in coconut milk and bring to a simmer, stirring and scraping up any browned bits. Cook, stirring often, until sauce thickens enough to lightly coat a spoon, about 3 minutes. Using tongs, transfer pasta to sauce (a little water coming along is okay). Add butter and ½ cup pasta cooking liquid. Increase heat to medium; cook, tossing vigorously and adding more pasta cooking liquid by the ¼-cupful as needed, until sauce is silky and pasta is coated and glossy, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and add lemon juice; toss to combine. Divide pasta among shallow bowls; top with scallions. Serve with lemon wedges. RED CURRY CHICKEN SALAD 4 SERVINGS While adding curry flavors to chicken salad is nothing new, frying curry paste and mixing it into yogurt (instead of mayonnaise) to form the base of this bright, aromatic chicken salad feels like a revelation. Here we serve it on crunchy lettuce, but it is equally good in wraps and sandwiches. 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil 3 Tbsp. red curry paste (preferably Maesri) 1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt 3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 2 tsp. honey ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more ½ medium red onion, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 6 sweet gherkins, chopped 2 cups shredded rotisserie chicken with skin ⅓ cup finely chopped cilantro
Table Talk AUGUST 2023 35 2 heads of Little Gem lettuce or romaine hearts, leaves separated ⅓ cup coarsely chopped salted roasted peanuts Heat oil in a small saucepan over medium. Cook curry paste, stirring often, until fragrant and slightly darkened and beginning to stick to bottom of pan, about 2 minutes. Scrape into a medium bowl; let cool. Stir yogurt, lime juice, honey, and ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt into curry paste. Add red onion, celery, gherkins, chicken, and cilantro to dressing and toss well to coat. Taste and season with more salt if needed. Arrange lettuce leaves on plates. Scoop about 2 Tbsp. chicken salad onto each leaf. Top with peanuts. RED CURRY PORK WITH RICE CAKES 4 SERVINGS If you’ve ever felt daunted by stir-fry prep, this approach is for you. Though a few items still need a chop, the rice cakes give you a built-in starchy side and a sauce (really just curry paste thinned with water to cook the rice cakes) all in one pan. 1 lb. sliced Korean rice cakes 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil 1 lb. ground pork 3 scallions, white and pale green and dark green parts separated, thinly sliced 1 2" piece ginger, peeled, finely chopped 5 garlic cloves, finely chopped ¼ cup red curry paste (preferably Maesri) 3 medium red and/or yellow bell peppers, cut into 1" pieces 1 Tbsp. fish sauce 1 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar 1 tsp. honey ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more Place rice cakes in a medium bowl; pour in cold water to cover. Let sit 10 minutes. Drain, reserving 1 cup rice cake soaking liquid. Heat oil in a large skillet with a lid over medium-high. Cook pork, undisturbed, until browned underneath, about 5 minutes. Break up meat with a wooden spoon and continue to cook, stirring and breaking up into large pieces, until browned all over but still pink in places, about 2 minutes more. Add white and pale green scallion parts, ginger, and garlic; cook, stirring, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add curry paste and cook, stirring, until paste is fragrant and slightly darkened and beginning to stick to bottom of pan, about 3 minutes. Add bell peppers and stir to coat. Stir in fish sauce, vinegar, and honey, scraping up any browned bits. Add rice cakes, ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and reserved rice cake soaking liquid; stir to combine. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until rice cakes are softened, about 5 minutes. Uncover and cook, stirring, until sauce is thickened, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Taste and season with more salt if needed. Divide stir-fry among shallow bowls. Top with scallion tops.
Small Plates, Big Opinions 36 AUGUST 2023 FOOD STYLING BY EMILIE FOSNOCHT. PROP STYLING BY EMMA RINGNESS. When it comes to eating, my two daughters couldn’t be more different. Ira, who’s one, is trying new foods every day and eats almost as much as my husband, Nick, and I do. I don’t even know where it all goes! She loves butternut squash so much we had a squash-themed party for her birthday this year. On the other hand, Bernie is a textbook four-year-old. One day she’ll be obsessed with something (lately homemade chicken noodle soup, mac and cheese, or pot stickers). The next day she’ll hate that food and won’t want to see it anywhere near her. TV host and Home Is Where the Eggs Are author Molly Yeh is big on buffets for her family of four Mix-and-MatchMeals I want my daughters to look forward to our meals together and develop enjoyable relationships with food. When I was growing up, my family always ate around the dinner table together. Keeping that tradition alive wasimportant to me once I started my own family. And I wondered if there was a way to reinvent one of our regulars—turkey burger night—for my girls. Maybe it was a ’90s thing, but my mom believed ground turkey was the healthiest option, so she put it in everything. I remember dreading turkey burger night, especially because the meat was going to be as dry as a desert. Could I make it tastier? And could I make it flexible enough for each of us? While developing recipes for my Food Network cooking show, Girl Meets Farm, I had a light bulb moment and decided to mix ground turkey in the same way I make my meatballs: with breadcrumbs and eggs to add texture and moisture. Since I love falafel, I also added those spices into the recipe. It became an instant favorite. Bernie loves the yummy flavors and the patty is tender enough for Ira to nibble on with her tiny teeth. I give them the chance to choose what they want from the spread by setting out all the ingredients on the table, including Greek yogurt sauce, greens, cheese, thinly sliced Persian cucumbers, onions, quartered cherry tomatoes, peppers, avocados, and other veggies that can either become burger toppings or a makeshift salad on the side. If you look at our plates, they’re all slight variations of one another. Bernie likes her burger plain, sometimes with cheese. Ira’s is broken up into little crumbles with a small piece of bun. Nick will usually eat any toppings as long as ketchup or raw onions aren’t involved. I like everything piled up on mine: lots of sauce and crunchy veggies eaten in big sloppy bites. Creating our own versions of the same meal leaves everybody satisfied. And that’s a win in my book. —As told to Dorkys Ramos PHOTOGRAPH BY ISA ZAPATA SAUCE Zest of 1 small lemon 1 garlic clove, finely grated ¼ cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt ¼ cup tahini 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 Tbsp. finely chopped mint ½ tsp. sugar Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper BURGERS AND ASSEMBLY 1 Tbsp. coriander seeds 2 tsp. cumin seeds 4 Tbsp. (or more) extravirgin olive oil, divided 1 small white or yellow onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely grated ½ tsp. ground cinnamon 1 large egg 1 cup finely chopped cilantro ½ cup panko 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more Freshly ground pepper 1 lb. ground turkey 4 soft sesame seed buns, split Torn romaine lettuce, thinly sliced red onion, mint leaves, and hot sauce (for serving) SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A mortar and pestle or spice mill SAUCE Stir lemon zest, garlic, yogurt, tahini, lemon juice, mint, sugar, and 1 Tbsp. water in a small bowl until smooth. Season generously with salt and pepper. Chill until ready to serve. DO AHEAD: Yogurt sauce can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and keep chilled. BURGERS AND ASSEMBLY Coarsely crush coriander seeds and cumin seeds with mortar and pestle or very coarsely grind in spice mill. Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium. Cook onion, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, 5–7 minutes. Add spice mixture, garlic, and cinnamon; cook, stirring often, until spices are fragrant, about 1 minute. Scrape onion mixture into a large bowl; wipe out skillet and reserve. Add egg, cilantro, panko, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt to T H E T A K E A W A Y Make meals that encourage customization. Setting out a variety of components will satisfy adventurous and picky eaters alike. COURTESY OF MOLLY YEH (FAMILY PHOTOGRAPH). RECIPE ADAPTED FROM HOME IS WHERE THE EGGS ARE BY MOLLY YEH. PUBLISHED SEPTEMBER 27, 2022, BY WILLIAM MORROW COOKBOOKS. Yeh with her husband and daughters Rather than make separate meals for each of them, I keep their preferences in mind when planning for the week. Kids love to make their own decisions, so putting out ingredients buffet-style allows everyone to craft their own plate. First I start with a protein. Then I’ll add in at least one thing I know will appeal to each person. If it’s taco night, I’ll set out ground meat and a variety of toppings, including lettuce, sauces, and shredded cheese. When soup is on the menu, I’ll serve it alongside a snack board with prosciutto, bread, and cheese options for Bernie, and heated veggies with soft textures that Ira can eat with her hands. FALAFELSPICED TURKEY BURGERS MAKES 4 Ground turkey is very lean, so Yeh set out to develop a turkey burger with all the childhood nostalgia but none of the typical dryness. Her solution: to treat the mix more like a meatball than a burger, incorporating onion for extra moisture and breadcrumbs and egg for added structure that holds on to more juiciness. The burger is flavored like falafel but instead of being fried, it’s browned in a skillet, turning supremely crispy thanks to all the added goodness.
Table Talk onion mixture, season with pepper, and mix to combine. Add turkey and gently mix with your hands until just incorporated (do not overmix). Using damp hands, form into four 4"-diameter patties. Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in reserved skillet over medium-high. Season patties generously on both sides with salt and pepper. Working in 2 batches and adding more oil between batches if needed, cook patties, undisturbed, until deeply browned underneath, about 5 minutes. Flip and cook, undisturbed, until deeply browned on second side and cooked through (an instant-read thermometer inserted into center should register 165°), about 4 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack. Wipe out skillet. Working in batches, toast buns, cut side down, in same skillet until golden brown and crisp around edges, about 3 minutes. Transfer to rack. Arrange burgers, buns, lettuce, red onion, and mint leaves on plates with yogurt sauce and hot sauce alongside and let everyone build burgers as desired. DO AHEAD: Patties can be formed 2 hours ahead. Transfer to a large plate; cover with plastic wrap and chill.
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Table Talk AUGUST 2023 41 The Getaway CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Stunning landforms near Aphrodite’s Rock, Kouklia; Melanda Beach Restaurant’s grilled catch of the day; lagoon views at the Palm House Sun,Sea,and Souvlaki Cyprus is a thrilling mix of Turkish, Greek, and Middle Eastern cultural influences, where lunches are long, seafood is bountiful, and meze isn’t just food—it’s a way of life BY YASMIN KHAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARCO ARGÜELLO
The Getaway Lyingin theshimmeringturquoise watersof theMediterranean, Cyprus is an island filled with rugged mountains, majestic olive groves, and orchards teeming with pomegranate and mango trees. Its strategic position—at the nautical crossroads of Europe, Asia, and North Africa—has given rise to a local cuisine heavily influenced by Mediterranean and Middle Eastern migration. Intrigued by this unique political and culinary history, I visited the island to research the diverse food traditions of the Turkish-Cypriot north and GreekCypriot south for my cookbook Ripe Figs. To get the most from your own trip, plan on exploring both sides of Cyprus, which is easiest by car or public transport. Dining options are plentiful and divided into tavernas, rustic grill houses, catch-of-the-day fish restaurants, and casual cafés where you’ll want to spend lazy afternoons in the sun, sipping an ice-cold frappé and taking in the air that smells of orange blossom and thyme. ZANETTOS TAVERNA Meze refers to both little dishes of food and the long, leisurely meal in which they’re enjoyed. Get the full experience at Zanettos, which has been serving Cypriots since 1938. I feasted from 20 plates on my last visit, including everything from fried Halloumi and souvlaki skewers to grilled calves liver and tomato-braised snails. There’s no menu; servers will deliver the parade of dishes. Come hungry and dig in. GELATIAMO GELATERIA NATURALE Cyprus is one of the hottest places in the Mediterranean, so it’s no surprise that ice cream is a serious business here. Family-run Gelatiamo in Nicosia is one of the best. The pistachio and chocolatehazelnut are exceptional, but my favorites are the local and seasonal guava or watermelon ice creams and sorbets. Grab a cone, then stroll the Old City’s winding backstreets. LEFT: Lost + Found Drinkery’s Ginderella cocktail; RIGHT: myriad meze at Zanettos Taverna ILLUSTRAT ION BY SUN BAI THE HOT SPOTS Zanettos Taverna Gelatiamo Gelateria Naturale Lost + Found Drinkery Melanda Beach Restaurant Limanaki Fish Restaurant Rous Restaurant Petek Pastanesi The Palm House WHEN TO VISIT Cyprus’s summer heat can be exhausting, so visit during the shoulder seasons: May–June or September–October. WHERE TO STAY The Madama Residence is a boutique hotel in the heart of the Old City of Nicosia, making it perfect for sightseeing. I love the Ottoman and Byzantine design features that make you feel like you’re stepping back into another era. In the coastal towns opt for Airbnbs, away from the more touristy resorts. WHAT TO BRING HOME A nazar (evil eye amulet) to hang on your wall and a big bottle of extra-virgin olive oil THE ESSENTIALS
Table Talk AUGUST 2023 43 PETEK PASTANESI After a day of roaming Famagusta, a Venetian-walled coastal city, stop into Petek Pastanesi—a dreamy two-floor Turkish-Cypriot dessert shop. Order the sour cherry cheesecake, baklava filled with walnuts and clotted cream, ashure (a sweet wheat pudding), and lokum (Turkish delight). Enjoy it all with tea served in tulipshaped glasses or a shot of strong coffee while admiring the café’s charming Ottomanera decor. THE PALM HOUSE The Palm House is located in an elegant garden surrounded by grapevines, flowers, herbs, and its namesake trees. Tuck into charred kebabs, kofte, stuffed dolmas, and vegetable mezes such as bulgur wheat salads and fresh green beans in spiced tomato sauce. Or head over for Sunday brunch, when you’ll be treated to a superb buffet of traditional pastries, sweet and savory pies, breads, charcuterie, jams, fruits, and cheeses while taking in views of the neighboring lagoon. LIMANAKI FISH RESTAURANT This upmarket waterfront restaurant is a lovely place to grab a sunset dinner. Start with a fruits de mer platter and follow up with a catch of the day. The meze tasting menu is extensive and a great way to sample local specialities, from smoky eggplant salads and stuffed courgette flowers to grilled octopus and fresh red mullet. ROUS RESTAURANT Chef Andreas Yiangoullas’s style blends the flavors and cooking techniques of Middle Eastern and European cuisine in a minimalist yet inviting setting. The tasting menus are the best way to sample his range. Highlights include dishes such as eggplant with miso and Cypriot honey, pumpkin risotto with scallops, and mango rice pudding. For weekend slots, book a few weeks in advance. LOST + FOUND DRINKERY This moodily lit cocktail lounge boasts a 50-item menu, with classics and original specialities such as the Ginderella (made with gin, Bénédictine, passion fruit, and honey bitters). Distressed wood tables, ’70s patterned sofas, and old-school arcade games give the space a quirky, casual atmosphere. Go on the early side, as it gets packed by 10 p.m. on weekends. MELANDA BEACH RESTAURANT Cyprus regularly wins awards for the cleanest beaches in Europe, and no trip is complete without a visit to a beachfront taverna. This one on the southern coast overlooks stunning Avdimou Bay. Order seafood (the grilled calamari and pan-fried prawn saganaki are excellent) and don’t miss the famous thick-cut, twice-fried Cypriot chips. Then wash it all down with a cold Keo beer. For the Sweet (and Savory) Tooth Cyprus is renowned for its flaky pastries. Tick off this list as you explore the island north to south. Tahinopita These tahini and cinnamon swirls are crunchy, sweet, and great with coffee, making them the ideal breakfast treat. Borek Square, coiled, or cigarilloshaped, borek are popular street foods, most commonly filled with feta and spinach or minced lamb. Spanakopita Packed with wild greens, spinach, and a touch of feta, spanakopita makes for a perfect lunch on the go. Eliopita Savory, soft, and plump, these bread rolls are flecked with olives and fragrant herbs. Keep an eye out for the ones with chunks of Halloumi too. Baklava Turkish-Cypriot baklava are iconic desserts for a reason. The bite-size buttery morsels are drenched in sugar syrup and come with pistachios, walnuts, or clotted cream. Crunchy, pistachio-tufted baklava at Petek Pastanesi Asparagus with ragout, smoked eel, potato foam, and citrus hollandaise at Rous Restaurant
All on the Table 44 AUGUST 2023 I t was that date. The one where you invite the guy over to your apartment for a home-cooked meal to see if there’s real chemistry. Tim and I had been set up about a month earlier. We went on one of those no-nonsense, low-stakes drinks dates designed to determine ifthere was enough interest to warrant another. There had been, and over the next few weeks we met at two bistros and a trattoria, getting to know each other over steak frites, pasta pomodoro, and other delicious but tame fare. At these meals I learned that Tim came from a close-knit Irish Catholic family and was one of six children (five of them boys). His descriptions of his childhood seemed plucked from a 1950s handbook—a stern but amicable father, a sweet homemaker mother, and orderly family-style dinners served promptly at 6 p.m. after his parents had enjoyed a single measured 1.5-ounce cocktail each and said grace. “What on earth does one cook for a family of eight?” I wondered aloud. Tim smiled and told me with nostalgia that Campbell’s cream of mushroom soup featured prominently; Twinkies and Ring Dings were Friday night’s dessert; and that he was his mother’s “best eater.” He also mentioned that his father, a germophobe, preferred his meats well-done. This did not bode well. My parents—divorced when I was five and each on their third marriage by the time I met Tim—drank with abandon, cooked adventurously, and preferred their meats bloody. “Food,” my mother always told me, “is poetry for the mouth.” In our home the kitchen was where the action took place. kind of eater he was. What if I was falling in love with the possessor of a tepid palate and resigning myself to a lifetime of bland meals? Food was my family’s love language. It was how we communicated. I didn’t want to tamp down my voice…. I needed to be heard! I tried to focus on the pro side of the ledger: Tim was handsome, smart, funny, and kind. Did it really matter if he wasn’t Anthony Bourdain? I looked at my cookbook collection, perched on a shelf in my tiny Manhattan kitchen and reached for a copy of my mother’s Do-Ahead Dining, the jacket of which featured a slab of gorgeously rare roast beef. The table of contents was organized by season and number served; headings included “Leisurely Summer Luncheon for Six” and “Christmas Brunch for Sixteen.” My finger slid down the list of By dayMom, aLe Cordon Bleu– educated chef, tested recipes for her Boston Globe column and her cookbooks, and in the evenings my brother, stepfather, and I gathered along the counter to watch the show: Mom, a dry manhattan in one hand and some cooking implement in the other, pounding, mincing, whisking, and flipping, confident that the way to all hearts was through the stomach. Under our adoring gaze she’d spatchcock fowl, coax soufflés to rise, and tuck sizzling snails into shells under clouds of garlicky butter, delivering bitesinto our open mouths like she was feeding baby birds in a nest. But back to Tim and this nerve-racking dinner date. I wasn’t anxious about performing in the kitchen—I was my mother’s daughter after all. What had me worried was what FOOD STYLING BY EMILIE FOSNOCHT. PROP STYLING BY EMMA RINGNESS. Kitchen Chemistry I’d found a great guy. But would our appetites align? BY ADRIENNE BRODEUR ILLUSTRATION BY CELIA JACOBS PHOTOGRAPH BY ISA ZAPATA
Table Talk ADRIENNE BRODEUR is the author of the national bestseller Wild Game and executive director of Aspen Words. Her novel Little Monsters is out now. SHRIMP WITH FETA AND TOMATOES 4 SERVINGS This recipe, adapted from Do-Ahead Dining, by Malabar Hornblower (Brodeur’s mother), is a riff on the Greek classic shrimp saganaki. It features shrimp folded into a fresh tomato sauce brightened with white wine, then topped with feta and broiled for a bold finish. The unexpected additions of Dijon mustard, sugar, and lemon juice highlight the sweetness of the tomatoes. 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 lb. large shrimp, peeled, deveined, patted dry Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 medium onion, finely chopped 5 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 Tbsp. double-concentrated tomato paste 2 lb. plum tomatoes, chopped ¼ cup finely chopped basil 2 tsp. Dijon mustard 1 tsp. sugar ½ cup dry white wine 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice ¼ cup finely chopped parsley, plus more for serving 2 oz. feta, crumbled Toasted country-style bread (for serving) Heat oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high. Add shrimp in a single layer; season with salt and pepper. Cook until shrimp are bright pink and nearly cooked through, about 1 minute per side. Using a slotted spoon, transfer shrimp to a plate. Reduce heat to medium and melt butter in same skillet. Cook onion, stirring often, until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring often, until darkened in color, about 3 minutes. Add tomatoes, basil, mustard, and sugar; stir to combine. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes are beginning to fall apart and juices have thickened, 12–15 minutes. Pour in wine and lemon juice and cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce is thickened, about 5 minutes; season with salt and pepper. Return shrimp along with any accumulated juices to skillet; stir in ¼ cup parsley. Remove from heat and scatter feta over. Heat broiler. Transfer skillet to oven; broil until cheese is browned in spots and shrimp is cooked through, about 4 minutes. Taste and season with more salt if needed. Divide among shallow bowls; top with more parsley. Serve with toast. recipes designed for two: sautéed shad roe, intimate duckling dinner, veal kidneys in wine sauce. No, no, and no. I began bargaining with myself: I could handle it if Tim wasn’t a culinary daredevil—an aversion to innards would not be a dealbreaker—but a baseline appreciation of excellent food was nonnegotiable. Then my eyes landed on a long-forgotten favorite, “Greek-Style Shrimp for Two.” It wasthe perfect dish, chock-full of robust and delectable ingredients like fresh tomatoes, tangy feta, piquant basil, and sweetshrimp—sophisticated yet not too challenging. Two evenings later Tim sat on an antique stool in my galley kitchen, drinking a glass of white wine while I channeled my mother bantering and showing off my knife skills, pressing the tip-end down while rapidfire rocking the blade across a garnish of parsley. To my delight, when I opened the oven door, releasing a puff of intoxicating aromas, Tim closed his eyes and inhaled audibly, giving the bouquet the attention a miracle deserved. Over his shoulder in the next room, a beautifully set table awaited us, candles flickering. But I couldn’t wait. I spooned out a pink shrimp topped with melted feta and sprinkled it with freshly chopped parsley. Tim’s eyes were still shut. “Open up,” I said, blowing on the morsel. Our first, albeit tiny, moment of vulnerability and trust. Tim did as I asked, smiling in anticipation, and I popped the bite into his mouth. He moaned with pleasure, a sound so appreciative that it conveyed all I needed to know in terms of our culinary compatibility. Without opening his eyes, he reached for my hand, turned it over and kissed the inside of my wrist. “This is perfection.” And it was.
46 Chef Shuai Wang grew up in Beijing and Flushing, Queens, but found his culinary voice in Charleston, South Carolina. He and Corrie, his business partner and wife, have earned a loyal following for their playful Chinese American restaurant Jackrabbit Filly and the hotly anticipated King BBQ. Here the Wangs hit the grill with a sizzling menu showcasing the breadth of Shuai’s many influences, from esquites-inspired tiger salad to char-siustyle pork chops and the whole world in between. RECIPES BY SHUAI WANG Food styling by Shuai Wang Prop styling by Megan Forbes and Christina Hussey PHOTOGRAPHS BY ISA ZAPATA
MOUTHWATERING CHARRED BEETS WITH RICOTTA 6 SERVINGS Sichuanese mouthwatering sauce, most commonly paired with poached chicken, is characterized by its tart and spicy flavor. It also pairs exceptionally well with untraditional ingredients like sweet and smoky grilled beets. Start with store-bought cooked beets to save prep time and use Tuscan kale instead of curly, which tends to be too chewy. 1 garlic clove, finely grated 2 Tbsp. low-sodium soy sauce 2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar 2 tsp. sugar 2 tsp. chili crisp (preferably Lao Gan Ma), plus oil from jar for serving 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more ½ bunch Tuscan kale, stems and ribs removed 1 lb. prepared unseasoned cooked beets, drained ¼ cup vegetable oil Sliced sourdough bread or focaccia (for serving) Extra-virgin olive oil (for drizzling) 8 oz. fresh ricotta 4 oz. fresh mozzarella, torn into bitesize pieces Prepare a grill for medium-high heat. Stir garlic, soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, 2 tsp. chili crisp, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a medium bowl until sugar and salt are dissolved. Set dressing aside. Toss kale, beets, and vegetable oil in a large bowl with your hands until well coated. Grill kale and beets, turning occasionally, until kale is crisp and mostly charred and beets are well charred all over, about 5 minutes for kale, 12–15 minutes for beets. Transfer vegetables to a cutting board; let sit until cool enough to handle. Cut beets into quarters. Cut kale into large pieces. Add beets to reserved dressing; toss to coat. Let sit 20 minutes. Just before serving, drizzle bread lightly with olive oil. Grill, turning often, until golden brown and toasted, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Spread ricotta on a platter. Add kale to bowl with beets; toss to combine. Spoon mixture over ricotta and tuck mozzarella around beets. Drizzle a spoonful of chili crisp oil over. Serve with grilled bread. GRILLED CORN TIGER SALAD 6 SERVINGS Chinese tiger salad, a raw, refreshing side most often made with cilantro, cucumbers, green onions, and chiles, is often served to cut the heat of spicy dishes. Wang’s version incorporates grilled corn, avocado, and salty cheese, elements of Mexican esquites, for a globe-trotting summer salad packed with flavor. 2 Tbsp. sesame seeds 3 garlic cloves, finely grated ½ cup fresh lime juice 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil 2 tsp. low-sodium soy sauce 2 tsp. oil from a jar of chili crisp (preferably Lao Gan Ma) 2 tsp. toasted sesame oil 2 tsp. unseasoned rice vinegar 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more 2 large ears of corn, husked 1 ripe avocado, cut into large pieces ½ English hothouse cucumber, halved lengthwise, seeds removed, halves sliced crosswise on a diagonal ¼" thick 1 small shallot, halved through root end, thinly sliced ½ bunch cilantro, tough stems removed 2 Tbsp. crumbled queso fresco or Cotija cheese Toast sesame seeds in a dry small skillet over medium heat, shaking pan constantly, until deep golden brown and fragrant, about 5 minutes; transfer to a large shallow bowl. Add garlic, lime juice, vegetable oil, soy sauce, chili crisp oil, sesame oil, vinegar, and 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt and stir vigorously until salt is dissolved. Set dressing aside. Prepare a grill for medium-high heat. Grill corn, turning often, until lightly charred all over and tender, 8–10 minutes. Transfer corn to a cutting board and let sit until cool enough to handle. Slice kernels from cobs (you should have about 2 cups). Add corn, avocado, cucumber, shallot, and half of cilantro to reserved dressing; toss gently to combine. Taste salad and season with more salt if needed. Top with queso fresco and remaining cilantro. M O U T HWAT E R I N G C H AR R ED B E E TS WI T H R I C O T TA
49 G R I L L ED C O RN T I G E R SAL AD
Feasting with friends. OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Bottle service Lowcountry style; the Wangs at work; a dockside toast; smoke-kissed summer squash