Bon Appetit

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53 GRILLED SQUASH WITH NUOC CHAM CHIMICHURRI 6 SERVINGS Wang loves the way that summer squash can be charred to a crisp on the outside while remaining tender and juicy inside. Carefully scoring the cut sides of the squash before grilling offers plenty of nooks for the sauce to settle in. Look for firm, slender, smallish squash as they tend to be less watery. 2½ lb. zucchini and/or other summer squash (about 12 small) 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided, plus more ½ bunch parsley, tough stems removed 1 shallot, coarsely chopped 1 garlic clove 1 jalapeño, coarsely chopped ¼ cup fresh lime juice 2 Tbsp. fish sauce (preferably Red Boat) 1 Tbsp. sugar 1 cup (tightly packed) mint leaves, plus more for serving ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil Prepare a grill for medium-high heat. Cut each squash in half lengthwise, then score cut sides in a ¼" crosshatch pattern, going as deep as possible without cutting into the skin. Toss squash, vegetable oil, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a large baking dish or on a rimmed baking sheet. Let sit at least 15 and up to 30 minutes. Meanwhile, pulse parsley, shallot, garlic, jalapeño, lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, 1 cup mint, and ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a food processor until finely chopped. Scrape into a medium bowl, pour in olive oil, and stir to incorporate. Taste chimichurri and season with more salt if needed. Grill squash, cut sides down, until well charred underneath, 10–15 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let sit until cool enough to handle. Slice squash crosswise on a diagonal into 3 or 4 pieces. Spread about ½ cup chimichurri over a platter. Arrange squash on top and drizzle more sauce over. Top with some mint leaves. Serve remaining chimichurri on the side if desired. DO AHEAD: Chimichurri can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill. Oil will solidify; bring to room temperature before using. G R I L L ED S Q U AS H WI T H NU O C C H A M C H I M I C H U R R I

54 CHINESE BARBECUE PORK CHOPS 6 SERVINGS Eaten together with the pickled radishes, these chops are at once sweet, savory, crisp, and sharp. They accurately replicate the flavor of the char siu pork you find hanging in Chinese barbecue restaurants without the need for a vertical rotisserie or special oven. Stick with bone-in pork rib chops here— they tend to be more well marbled and stay juicier than sirloin chops. PICKLED RADISHES ½ cup distilled white vinegar 2 Tbsp. sugar ¼ tsp. black peppercorns ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 1 garlic clove, finely grated 8 oz. mixed radishes (such as red and/or watermelon and/or purple daikon), trimmed, thinly sliced 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt PORK AND ASSEMBLY ½ cup hoisin sauce 2 Tbsp. ketchup 2 Tbsp. light or dark brown sugar 2 tsp. five-spice powder 2 tsp. oyster sauce 2 tsp. soy sauce 1 tsp. finely grated peeled ginger 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil ¼ cup vegetable oil, plus more for grill 6 ⅓"–¼" bone-in pork rib chops (2–3 lb.) Flaky sea salt Red leaf or romaine lettuce leaves (for serving) PICKL ED RADISHES Heat vinegar, sugar, peppercorns, and red pepper flakes in a small saucepan, stirring, until sugar is dissolved, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat, add garlic, and let brine cool. Toss radishes and salt in a small bowl; let sit until softened and releasing liquid, 10–30 minutes; drain liquid. Pour brine over radishes. Cover and chill at least 8 hours before using. DO AHEAD: Radishes can be pickled 1 week ahead. Keep chilled. PORK AND ASSEMBLY Stir hoisin sauce, ketchup, brown sugar, five-spice powder, oyster sauce, soy sauce, ginger, sesame oil, and ¼ cup vegetable oil in a large bowl to combine. Make shallow cuts along fatty, curved edge of each pork chop to prevent them from curling as they cook. Add chops to marinade and toss to coat. Cover with a lid or plate and chill at least 2 hours or, preferably, up to 12 hours. Let sit at room temperature 30 minutes before grilling. C H I N E S E BAR B E C U E P O RK C H O P S Prepare a grill for high heat; oil grate. Remove pork chops from bowl and scrape off excess marinade; discard marinade. Grill, turning often, until deeply browned and an instant-read thermometer inserted near the bone of each registers 140° (internal temperature should climb to 145° as they rest), 8–12 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest 10 minutes. Thinly slice meat from bone; transfer to a platter and sprinkle with sea salt. Serve with pickled radishes and lettuce. MISO AND MAPLE PECANBUTTER MOCHI CAKE 1012 SERVINGS Mochi is Wang’s favorite dessert and reminds him of Chinese holidays with his family. His second-favorite? Classic Southern pecan pie. This Hawaiianstyle butter mochi cake combines the best qualities of both. It has all the nutty richness you expect from pecan pie filing, plus any cloying sweetness gets tempered by the miso. PECANS Vegetable oil (for baking sheet) 8 oz. raw pecans, coarsely chopped (about 2 cups) 2 Tbsp. pure maple syrup 1 Tbsp. sugar 2 tsp. white or yellow miso CAKE AND ASSEMBLY 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted, slightly cooled, plus more for pan 2 large eggs 1¼ cups (250 g) sugar 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt 1 13.5-oz. can unsweetened coconut milk, well shaken, heated slightly if fat is solid 2 tsp. vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract 1²⁄₃ cups (254 g) mochiko (sweet rice flour; such as Koda Farms) 1 tsp. baking powder Vanilla ice cream (for serving) PECANS Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 350°. Lightly oil a rimmed baking sheet. Using your hands, toss pecans, maple syrup, sugar, and miso in a medium bowl until well coated. Spread out on prepared baking sheet; bake until fragrant and matte looking, 6–8 minutes (nuts won’t be fully toasted). Let cool. CAKE AND ASSEMBLY Lightly butter a 9"-diameter cake pan and line bottom with a parchment paper round. Vigorously G R I L L T H E C O V E R

55 M I S O AND M AP L E P E CAN B U T T E R M O C H I CAKE whisk eggs, sugar, and salt in a large bowl until smooth. Add coconut milk, vanilla bean paste, and 6 Tbsp. butter and whisk well. Add mochiko and baking powder; whisk vigorously until combined and batter is smooth and thick. Scrape batter into prepared pan. Toss pecans to break up any clumps and scatter evenly over batter, going all the way to the edges (it may seem like a lot). Bake cake until sides start to pull away from pan, top is golden brown, and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean (some pecans will sink), 50–55 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cake cool in pan 15 minutes. Turn cake out onto rack; peel away parchment and discard. Carefully turn cake right side up and let cool completely (at least 1 hour). To serve, slice cake and top with scoops of ice cream.

RECIPES BY RACHEL GURJAR AND ZAYNAB ISSA Five-Ingredient Recipes to Make the Most of Summer’s Star Produce Farmers Market Challenge PHOTOGRAPHS BY ISA ZAPATA Food Styling by Sean Dooley Prop Styling by Marina Bevilacqua 56

AT THE FARMERS MARKET, August feels like the big game, the Oscars, the proud wave from the gold medal podium—the moment when the spotlight shines brightest. There are more varieties of squash and shades of tomato than you thought possible and enough bounty to ensure your tote bags are overflowing. That’s where we come in. What follows are five-ingredient recipes (beyond the basic pantry staples) strategically designed to bring out the best in your produce with the least amount of effort. They’re simple and uncomplicated on purpose; when you’ve got berries this sweet and peaches this juicy, you don’t need to overthink things. Plus, we’re sharing our best tips for embracing abundance and preventing food waste for those times when you bought just a little too much (it happens). So go big and go home—we’ll show how to make the most of your haul. —Kelsey Youngman

Bought a Little Extra? L E M O N Y Z U CC H IN I WI T H S O U R C R EA M AND DI L L Mix sour cream, garlic, 2 Tbsp. finely chopped dill, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a small bowl until well combined; spread evenly over a platter and set aside. Whisk lemon zest and juice, 1 Tbsp oil, and 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt in a medium bowl to combine. Set vinaigrette aside. Heat remaining 3 Tbsp. oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high. Arrange zucchini in a single layer and cook, undisturbed, until deep golden brown underneath, about 5 minutes. Turn over and cook until deep golden brown on the other side, about 5 minutes. Add ¼ cup coarsely chopped dill to pan, season with kosher salt and pepper, and toss gently until combined and dill is wilted. Transfer zucchini mixture to reserved vinaigrette and toss to coat. Using a large slotted spoon, transfer zucchini mixture to reserved platter with dill sour cream. Scatter some dill sprigs over, sprinkle with sea salt, and season with pepper. GRILLED PORK WITH SPICY RASPBERRY CHIMICHURRI 4 SERVINGS We love chimichurri, the Argentine condiment, for its lush green color and nubby, herbaceous texture. It’s what we had in mind when we created the sauce for this grilled pork recipe, which adds a similar burst of flavor to any dish—using raspberries instead of garlic and herbs. Stay with us: The berries easily smash to make a coarse, saucy base without any knife work and have an inherent refreshing tartness that meshes seamlessly with bright lime juice and spicy Calabrian chiles. Vegetable oil (for grill) 2 1½"-thick bone-in pork rib chops (about 1½ lb.) 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 2 cups fresh raspberries (about 1 pint) ½ medium shallot, finely chopped 2 Tbsp. crushed Calabrian chiles 1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 1½ tsp. sugar Prepare a grill for medium-high heat; oil grate with vegetable oil. Season pork chops all over with salt, then drizzle olive oil on both sides and rub into meat to evenly coat. Let sit while you make the raspberry chimichurri. Mash raspberries in a small bowl with a fork until there are no large pieces left. Add shallot, chiles, lime juice, sugar, ¼ cup olive oil, and 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt and mix well; set raspberry chimichurri aside. Grill pork chops, turning occasionally, until deeply browned and an instant-read thermometer inserted near the bone registers 140° (internal temperature should climb to 145° as the chops rest), 9–12 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest 5 minutes. To serve, carve meat away from pork chop bones and slice against the grain; arrange on a platter. Spoon reserved raspberry chimichurri over. LEMONY ZUCCHINI WITH SOUR CREAM AND DILL 24 SERVINGS Cutting zucchini into chunky pieces and giving it a hard sear develops lots of exterior texture and deep color while minimizing sogginess. Tossing in some fresh dill at the end gives a bright herbal finish—a handful of basil leaves instead would also be excellent. 1 cup sour cream 2 garlic cloves, finely grated 2 Tbsp. finely chopped dill, plus ¼ cup coarsely chopped dill; plus torn sprigs for serving 2½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided, plus more Zest and juice of 1 lemon 4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 3 large zucchini (about 1½ lb.), sliced into 1"-thick rounds Freshly ground pepper Flaky sea salt ZUCCHINI To freeze your extra zucchini without damaging its texture, cook it first. Sauté thin slices in olive oil until golden brown and falling apart. Let cool before freezing. It’s the perfect addition to summer soups and sauces, and there’s no thawing required. PLUMS We love chef and cookbook author Abra Berens’s salted plums: Scrub, quarter, and pit plums. Cover them with salt in a glass jar. Tightly close jar and shake each day for about a week (a brine will form). Keep chilled up to 1 month. To serve, rinse then thinly slice plums. RASPBERRIES Place raspberries in a jar, cover with booze of choice. Seal and let sit for one week. Strain and store berries in the fridge, and reserve booze at room temperature. Combine ½ cup spiked berries and 1 shot infused booze in a collins glass filled with ice and top with seltzer.

G R I L L ED P O RK WI T H S P I C Y R AS P B E R RY C H I M I C H U R R I

CA J U N C H I CKE N WI T H P EAC H SAL SA

Bought a Little Extra? S T EAK WI T H P R E S E RVED L E M O N M AR I N AT ED T O M AT O E S CAJUN CHICKEN WITH PEACH SALSA 46 SERVINGS Flavoring chicken thighs with a simple, aromatic, and smoky Cajun seasoning, then searing them, makes an ideal canvas for this sweet-and-sour peach salsa. Taste your Cajun seasoning and adjust the amount of salt you use in this recipe accordingly; some brands are more heavily seasoned than others. 1½ lb. skinless, boneless chicken thighs (about 6) 2 Tbsp. Cajun seasoning 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 2 ripe peaches, peeled, cut into ½" pieces Zest and juice of 1 lime 1 cup cilantro leaves with tender stems Toss chicken thighs with Cajun seasoning, 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and 1 Tbsp. oil in a medium bowl to coat. Toss peaches and remaining ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a mesh sieve set inside another medium bowl to combine; set aside. Heat remaining 2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over medium. Cook chicken in a single layer, turning halfway through, until charred in spots and cooked through, 12–16 minutes. Transfer to a platter. Discard (or drink; it’s delicious!) any juice in bowl. Transfer peaches to bowl and add lime zest and juice and cilantro and toss gently to combine. Taste peach salsa and season with more salt if needed. Spoon over chicken thighs. STEAK WITH PRESERVED LEMONMARINATED TOMATOES 2 SERVINGS Toss peak heirloom tomatoes in a simple preserved lemon, soy sauce, and chile marinade while you sear off a nice well-marbled steak for a dinner for two in no time. The rich, fatty meat is just the right counterpoint to the punchy salad. Returning to this recipe off-season? Opt for cherry tomatoes instead of heirloom. 1 1-lb. New York strip steak (1"–1¼" thick) Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 red Thai chiles or 1 red Fresno or jalapeño chile, halved 2 Tbsp. soy sauce 2 Tbsp. thinly sliced preserved lemon, plus 2 tsp. brine 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 2 lb. assorted heirloom tomatoes, halved, quartered if large Season steak all over with salt and pepper and let sit 15 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk chiles, soy sauce, preserved lemon, brine, and 1 Tbsp. oil in a large bowl to combine. Add tomatoes and toss to coat. Chill tomato mixture until ready to use. Heat a dry large cast-iron skillet over medium-high until very hot. Drizzle remaining 1 Tbsp. oil over steak; rub all over to coat evenly. Cook, turning every 2 minutes or so, until deeply browned and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part registers 120°, 8–10 minutes for medium-rare. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest 10 minutes. Slice steak against the grain ¼" thick. Add steak to marinated tomato mixture and toss to coat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer steak and tomatoes to a platter and drizzle some of the marinade remaining in bowl over (discard the rest). Season with pepper. TOMATOES After just a few minutes on the grill tomatoes develop a welcome char and concentrated sweetness that’s hard to beat. Smash some directly onto garlic-rubbed toast for a riff on pan con tomate or use them as a smoky addition to a late-summer Bloody Mary. STRAWBERRIES Transform strawberries into an irresistible topping: Toss sliced strawberries with sugar (try coconut or maple sugars to add another layer of flavor) and let sit for about 30 minutes. Serve sweet and saucy macerated berries over buttery pancakes or fudgy brownies. PEACHES Make quick and easy crisps: Pit and slice peaches (no need to peel), nestle slices into individual ramekins. Sprinkle them with sugar, top with a handful of your favorite granola tossed with a teaspoon of oil, and bake at 350° for 20–30 minutes until bubbly.

62 JAMMY CUMIN PLUMS AND FETA SALAD 4 SERVINGS Plums rarely get the attention that peaches and other show-offy summer fruits do, but they should. They come in a wide range of colors and shapes and are just as complex and tasty cooked as they are raw. Here they are simmered with fragrant cumin for a subtly savory turn and to balance the assertiveness of feta. These jammy plums are also great spooned over yogurt or vanilla ice cream (you can leave out the spices if you want to go all sweet)—try it! 4 large red plums (about 1 lb.), cut into ½"-thick wedges ⅓ cup sugar ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt ½ tsp. cumin seeds 2 4-oz. feta slabs ½ tsp. thyme leaves Freshly ground pepper 1 baguette, sliced on a diagonal 1" thick, drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil, toasted Bring plums, sugar, salt, cumin seeds, and ¼ cup water to a simmer in a medium saucepan. Cook until some plum wedges are starting to fall apart and liquid is thick enough to coat a spoon, about 8 minutes. Let plums cool slightly. Spoon jammy plums onto a platter. Break feta into large pieces and arrange over and around. Top with thyme leaves and season with pepper. Serve with toast. THE STRAWBERRIEST PAVLOVA 4 SERVINGS Meringue desserts like pavlova can seem daunting, but meringue isn’t as fickle as you may believe. Some tips: Use a bone-dry bowl and whisk when whipping, and make sure you beat until stiff peaks form. Keeping the oven door closed while baking to maintain a consistent temperature is also key. You’ve got this! And if you want to spread a layer of whipped cream over your meringue before adding the berries, we definitely won’t stop you. MERINGUE 6 large egg whites, room temperature ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt 1 cup (200 g) sugar 1 Tbsp. sifted cornstarch 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice SAUCE 1 lb. fresh strawberries, hulled, halved ½ cup (50 g) sugar 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt STRAWBERRIES AND ASSEMBLY 1 lb. fresh strawberries, hulled, quartered 1 Tbsp. sugar ½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt ¼ tsp. vanilla extract MERINGUE Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 275°. Place a sheet of parchment on a 13x9" rimmed baking sheet. Turn a 10"-diameter bowl over and draw a circle around the border; turn parchment over. Beat egg whites and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment over low speed until frothy, 2–3 minutes. Increase speed to medium and, with motor running, add sugar 1 Tbsp. at a time, beating until incorporated after each addition before adding more, about 5 minutes. Increase speed to high and add cornstarch and lemon juice and beat until sugar is dissolved, stiff peaks form, and meringue is glossy, 3–4 minutes. (Rub a little meringue between your fingers; if you feel sugar granules, keep beating until dissolved.) Spread meringue out inside circle on prepared baking sheet, swirling to create a depression in the center to hold the berries, to make a 10" round about 1" thick in the center and 3" thick at the edges. Reduce oven heat to 200°. Bake meringue until firm to the touch, about 3 hours. Turn off oven and prop open door with a wooden spoon. Let meringue cool in oven, about 2 hours. DO AHEAD: Meringue can be made 1 day ahead. Store tightly wrapped at room temperature. SAUCE Bring strawberries, sugar, lemon juice, and salt to a boil in a large saucepan. Reduce heat and simmer until berries begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Let sauce cool slightly, then transfer to a blender and blend until smooth. Transfer to an airtight container; cover and chill until ready to use. DO AHEAD: Sauce can be made 1 day ahead. Keep chilled. STRAWBERRI ES AND ASSEMBLY Toss strawberries, sugar, lemon zest and juice, salt, and vanilla in a medium bowl. Cover and chill 15 minutes. Spoon 1 cup sauce over meringue (save any remaining sauce for another use, like pouring over waffles); mound macerated strawberries in the center. JA M M Y C U M IN P L U M S AND F E TA SAL AD

T H E S T R AWB E R R I E S T PAVL OVA

64 THE APPLI Photographs by ISA ZAPATA OF CO

A P P L I A N C E S 2 0 2 3 WITH ANCES JOY Food styling by JUDY KIM Prop styling by GÖZDE EKER OKING

66 People love to be opinionated about appliances. Some see the Instant Pot and air fryers as ways to get dinner on the table better and faster; others consider them expensive, wasteful, and unnecessary. Well, you couldn’t pull the plugs from our kitchens if you tried. Listen in on the chatter before a staff meeting and you’ll hear editors passionately extolling the virtues of their favorite electric kettle. Food processors sit right alongside knives and cutting boards at our test kitchen stations. But that doesn’t mean we love just any appliance—each piece of equipment needs to earn its precious countertop real estate. If it doesn’t make cooking easier, more joyful, and more delicious, we don’t want it. So we’re sharing our food editors’ highly opinionated picks for the appliances they couldn’t live without and the recipes that show off their full potential. We’ll also play matchmaker (everyone’s got a soulmate appliance!), speculate on when AI will come for your crisper drawer, and suggest a few gadgets you definitely don’t need—but might want anyway. —Kelsey Youngman A ToasterWith a View BY EMMA LAPERRUQUE There are a lot of fancy toasters out there ready to set you back hundreds of dollars with their sleek designs and nifty features. But my favorite is the Dash Clear View Toaster ($50; amazon.com), and it comes with the niftiest feature of all: a see-through window that lets you watch your toast, well, toast. It’s hard to overstate how mesmerizing and soothing this is, like lying in a hammock and staring at the clouds. And it’s practical too. I can get my everything bagel exactly how I like it: golden brown on the edge of burnt, crispy but not crunchy. The extra-wide slot, easy-to-clean crumb tray, and precise dial don’t hurt either. But it’s the silly little window that makes this budget toaster the most valuable appliance in my kitchen. Just don’t tell my Vitamix, all right? THEWAFFLE MAKER BY CHRIS MOROCCO You either have a waffle iron or you don’t but should get one. Those are the two main conditions of life. You aren’t going to hack your way into making waffles without one. There isn’t a silicone mold you can bake them in (and if there is, that’s just sick), and whatever work-around you might devise, I can guarantee just buying a waffle iron would be so much simpler. I get it. Didn’t Henry David Thoreau say something about being wary of pursuits that required new clothes? That is my life outlook when it comes to buying kitchen equipment. But unlike most countertop kitchen appliances that simply mirror the function of a tool you probably already own (rice cookers are wonderful, but you can also just make rice in a pot), a waffle maker is a one-way ticket to making a singular form of breakfast bliss. It does one thing spectacularly well that I couldn’t do otherwise, and that’s good enough for me. All-Clad Belgian Waffle Maker ($200; amazon.com)

67 A WAFFLE WORTH WAITING FOR 4 SERVINGS A yeasted waffle is a better waffle. Those that are leavened only by baking soda or baking powder are just pancakes in disguise. The real thing should be airy with an outer shell that is crunchy like toast and perfumed like sweet eggy heaven. An overnight rest yields the best texture, but 2 hours is still great. While we have a soft spot for savory toppings, these waffles are just as good with butter and maple syrup. ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter 2½ cups (313 g) all-purpose flour 2 Tbsp. sugar 1 tsp. baking powder 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt 1 tsp. instant yeast ½ tsp. baking soda 2 large eggs 1½ cups buttermilk Vegetable oil (for waffle iron) 4 fried eggs Sliced avocado, pickled onion, and/ or chili crisp (for serving) Melt butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Remove from heat and whisk in ¹⁄₃ cup water. Whisk flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, yeast, and baking soda in a large bowl. Add butter mixture, eggs, and buttermilk; mix gently until just combined and no large pockets of dry flour remain (batter should be lumpy). Cover and let sit at room temperature until nearly doubled in volume and some bubbles appear around edges of bowl, about 2 hours, or, preferably, chill 12 hours. Heat waffle iron on medium-high; lightly brush with oil. Pour enough batter onto iron to cover surface (about ½ cup) and cook until waffles are golden brown and cooked through, about 5 minutes. (Keep waffles warm on a baking sheet in a 200° oven if desired.) Repeat with remaining batter, brushing iron with more oil as needed. Top waffles with fried eggs, followed by avocado, onion, and/or chili crisp.

69 Rice for Two BY KENDRA VACULIN My partner and I bought our one-button, three-cup Zojirushi NHS-06BA Rice Cooker ($50; macys .com) with the Macy’s gift card my mom sent us when we moved in together in 2016. While it felt perfunctory at the time, this little rice robot has turned out to be the single most important purchase of our entire relationship. I think it’s more valuable to us than our wedding rings. Is that crazy to say? It’s compact enough to fit in our small apartment kitchen but makes more than enough rice for our needs (i.e., three cups dry, nearly nine cups cooked). It produces perfect rice of all varieties every time. Sure, it doesn’t have the myriad features of some of the more complicated Zojirushi models, but I don’t mind; with just the one button, it does just the one thing reliably well and faster than its bigger brethren. And it is still going strong after seven years of near-constant use and one particularly harrowing drop on the sidewalk. Even dinged-up and dented, it’s the $50 workhorse of our kitchen, and I can’t imagine life without it. THE VITAMIX BY HANA ASBRINK The Vitamix wholly deserves its well-earned reputation as the industry standard in both restaurant and, increasingly, home kitchens. The high-powered blender has topped consumers’ lists across the board (including our own), and at this point, even many novice cooks could recognize it in a lineup of its competitors. We all know it’s aces when it comes to blending and puréeing everything to its smoothest possible state of existence. Cold smoothies, hotsoups(see below), sauces, and marinades are their very bestselves when whirred up in a Vitamix—we accept this as a matter of course by now. But what if I told you that I occasionally ask my Vitamix to go off duty and whiz up things like *furtively glances* pie crusts? Yes, I’m pretty sure the manufacturer would wince at my admission and not recommend you do this, but I’ll tell you what, it works (and well!) when you’re crunched for time or feel too lazy to make the dough by hand. I drop all the dry ingredients in the canister, hit pulse to aerate, add cubes of cold butter, then pulse-pulse-pulse until it’s all just combined. The dough comes together in a ball in no time. A versatile beast, that beautiful blender is. ACTUALLYVEGAN CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP 4 SERVINGS A Vitamix blender generates so much heat when running at peak speed that it can cook soup all on its own. Here we use its unmatched power first to create a near-instant cashew cream and then to blitz up a silky tomato soup cooked—you guessed it— entirely in the blender, no stove involved. 2 garlic cloves 1 cup raw cashews ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 1 tsp. plus 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 2¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided; plus more 1 28-oz. can crushed tomatoes 3 Tbsp. red curry paste 2 Tbsp. (or more) sugar 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Carefully blend garlic, cashews, ¼ cup oil, 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and 1 cup boiling water in blender on low speed until combined. Increase speed to high and blend until very smooth, about 2 minutes. Measure out ½ cup cashew cream and set aside for serving. Add tomatoes, curry paste, sugar, and 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt to remaining cashew cream in blender. Pour in 1½ cups room-temperature water and blend on low speed until combined. Increase speed to high and blend until soup is steaming and very smooth, 6–8 minutes. Add lemon juice and blend on low speed until combined and soup is less frothy, about 1 minute. Taste and season with more salt and/or sugar if needed. Divide soup among bowls. Drizzle with oil and reserved cashew cream. Vitamix 5200 ($480; vitamix .com)

71 THEFOOD PROCESSOR BY SHILPA USKOKOVIC You know what can make both cake batter and turkey meatballs (and hummus and breadcrumbs)? A boxy old food processor. It may not have the sleek curb appeal of a fancy coffee machine or a stand mixer that you want to leave out on the counter, but ranked on utility and versatility alone, the food processor trumps almost all your other kitchen gadgets. Its sharp, ridged blades mean it can tackle textures unlike the soups and sauces best left to your blender. Chunky pastes and spreads tediously made with a mortar and pestle (like pesto) come together in a flash in a food processor. Whipped cream made in one is its own category, at once dense and diaphanous. Add an attachment and it’s unparalleled at shredding large quantities of cheese for pasta or cabbage for coleslaw. The Cuisinart Custom 14-Cup Food Processor in particular is the gold standard. I got mine as a wedding present (thanks, Mike!), and a decade later it still runs like new. With a large capacity, reassuringly sturdy base, and ultra-strong motor, it can do everything from mincing soft herbs to knocking out tough pasta dough in under a minute. I’ve crushed ice in it, made pecan butter and pineapple slushies. Don’t settle for a smaller size. Any space you save isn’t worth the sacrifice in functionality. Sometimes large and in charge is just the way to go. CroonWhile You Cook BY SAM STONE There are endless kitchen gadgets that can make your life easier, but how many can make your life more joyful? No, a Bluetooth speaker can’t knead your dough or julienne your veggies, but it’s a huge part of setting up the right vibe. Sing as you stir, melodize as you mandoline, belt as you bake at 350° for 35 minutes. A kitchen speaker has some unique requirements. It needs fidelity and volume first and foremost because everyone should hear the best version of their favorite songs, even when the blender is going strong. Waterproofing is key since spills happen to even the most experienced cooks. And voice-activated integration with Amazon Alexa or Google Assistant can be a lifesaver when you’re wrist-deep in a sticky dough but desperately need to skip a song (not today, Black Eyed Peas). The Sonos Roam ($179; sonos.com) checks all of my boxes and boasts a Trueplay feature, which automatically tunes the speaker’s sound to both its placement and the surfaces in the room. Plus, with a 10-hour battery life, you can keep up the tunes through prep, cooking dinner, and an entire sink full of dishes. Cuisinart Custom 14-Cup Food Processor ($250; cuisinart.com) SURPRISINGLY SIMPLE SANDWICH BREAD MAKES ONE 8½X4½" LOAF Thanks to its high RPM, a food processor can mix bread dough in a fraction of the time it takes in a stand mixer. It’s shockingly speedy and simple. The resulting loaf is soft and buttery, well suited for morning toast or afternoon sandwiches. This recipe requires a large capacity food processor and its sturdy motor. Any unit smaller than 12 cups could burn out. ¼ cup (50 g) sugar 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt 2¼ tsp. instant yeast 3 cups (375 g) bread flour 6 Tbsp. chilled unsalted butter, cut into ¼" pieces Vegetable oil (for greasing) Process sugar, salt, yeast, and 1 cup cold water in food processor fitted with the metal blade until sugar and yeast are dissolved, about 2 minutes. Scrape down sides of bowl. Add flour and process until dough comes together and forms into a ball around the blade, about 1 minute. With the motor running, add butter and process until butter is incorporated and dough forms into a ball around the blade again, about 2 minutes. (Properly mixed dough will be smooth, soft, and slightly stretchy; undermixed, it will feel sticky and easily break into soft clumps when pulled.) Turn dough out onto a surface and form into a smooth ball. Lightly oil a large bowl. Transfer dough to bowl and turn to coat with oil. Cover with a plate or lid and let dough rise at room temperature until puffy and nearly doubled in size, 2–3 hours. Lightly oil an 8½x4½" loaf pan; line bottom with a strip of parchment paper. Transfer dough to surface (no need to flour) and roll out to about a 12x8" rectangle. Rotate dough so a short side is closest to you and roll up tightly into a log. Place, seam side down, in prepared pan, nudging to fit snugly; pat down firmly to an even thickness. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until dough is ½" above rim of pan, 1–1½ hours. Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 375°. Remove plastic wrap and bake bread until deep golden brown (an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center should register 190°), 25–30 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let bread cool in pan 5 minutes. Turn bread out onto rack and let cool completely before slicing. DO AHEAD: Dough can be made 1 day ahead; cover tightly with plastic wrap after first rise and chill. Roll out and shape while still cold; second rise (in pan) will take about 2 hours longer. Bread can be baked 2 days ahead; store in a paper bag or bread box at room temperature, or slice and freeze up to 1 month.

BY ALEX BEGGS The All-Clad Belgian Waffle frozen hash changed. A SPECIAL TREAT THE FASTER, THE BETTER CRISPY IF I HAVE TO DO A FEW DISHES BY HAND… CARROT CAKE ICE CREAM PICK A TEXTURE I CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT… CLOGS ON FOR A REASON Let me be your matchmaker, because toasters don’t have zodiac signs I NEED… CREATURE OF THE NIGHT WHEN I’M COOKING… MEH, DON’T MIND MAXIMUM I AM A… From silky soups to piña coladas, the Vitamix 5200 (p. 69) is as essential as it is expensive—but FYI, you can buy refurbished models direct from the company for less. The rub? You’ll have to hand-wash it. The Cuisinart Frozen Yogurt-Ice Cream and Sorbet Maker (p. 77) will keep you stocked on the cold stuff for the rest of your life and is especially fun for those who like to experiment in the kitchen (put some leftover cake in your custard base; see what happens). Grate carrots and chop pecans for that cake in the Cuisinart Custom 14-Cup Food Processor (p. 71). Rely on its sharp blades to easily make thick, creamy spreads like almond butter, pesto, and hummus. Then let the dishwasher do all the cleanup. Toast thick sourdough slices, air-fry sausages, frittata in the do-it-all-butreally Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer Pro (p. 75). At dinner, use it when you want roasted broccoli faster than it takes your big oven to preheat. SCREAM

73 2025: Smart Saver Storage Containers There’s no simple way to organize a refrigerator so you can see all the food you have—and use it before it expires and inevitably ends up in the compost bin. Enter: Smart Savers. These airtight, internet-connected containers use a scale and AI technology to identify what’s being placed inside. An LED panel on the front of each box tells you when something needs to be eaten, and alerts are also sent to your phone with recipe ideas on what to do with your wilted kale and past-theirprime carrots. —Brian X. Chen, lead consumer technology writer, ‘The New York Times’ 2030: Communal Refrigerator The future kitchen lies in the past: For much of human history, kitchens have been communal. By splitting the expense of a kitchen, the cost of homes will reduce significantly and groups of families will forge bonds as they cook together. The solarpowered Communal Refrigerator supports this vision: It’s a large device that would live in the shared kitchen of a residential development and store enough food for multiple people or families. Weighted auto tracking and app-connected AI prompts the families to reorder supplies when they’re out. And individual families could still keep their own private stores in biometrically locked drawers. —Ravi Sawhney, CEO and founder, RKS Design 2035: Smart Fermentor Fermentation is one of the best ways to preserve vegetables beyond their peak. While many cultures have been doing this for millennia, the Smart Fermentor takes the guesswork out of making hot sauce, kimchi, and more. Like an AI-powered drip coffee maker, you fill the core chamber with veggies. A scale tells you how much salt, water, and seasoning to add. And internet-connected sensors constantly monitor the pH, auto-adjust the temperature, and instantly detect issues like mold, sending information back to an app on your phone. Even professional chefs get a little nervous canning their ferments, but the Smart Fermentor automatically sterilizes and jarsfood in a secondary chamber. —Caroline Schiff, author, ‘The Sweet Side of Sourdough,’ and executive pastry chef, Gage & Tollner, NYC 2040: Custom Hydroponic Grower Our gut microbiomes are like a “second brain,” regulating our mood and well-being, but we have barely begun to understand how to properly care for them. The hydroponic CustomFarms countertop grower lets you harvest designer produce like Japanese strawberries and Robin’s Koginut squash that are scientifically formulated to boost your individual gut health. Take an at-home microbiome test and CustomFarms’ food scientists will select and ship you a rainbow of seedlings that have been nutritionally tailored using CRISPR gene editing technology to optimize your microbiota. A mobile app will teach you how to cook your produce, with each bite carefully customized to boost your mood, make you smarter, and help you live longer. —Matt Newberg, founder, HNGRY, a subscription media platform exploring how technology is reshaping food 2045: Digital Chef Healthy eating is an ever-shifting target. The Digital Chef takes the guesswork out of nutrition by measuring your biometrics and customizing meals to meet vitamin deficiencies and food sensitivities. Inside the transparent glass dome, a robot taps a carousel of carefully formulated liquids, oils, powders, and pastes to assemble your meal using advanced 3D printing technology. Meanwhile, lasers cook food with extreme precision. AI software helps the Digital Chef learn from your eating habits, make suggestions based on your past faves, and then create better-for-you meals to enjoy, all while introducing new flavor and texture experiences. —Jonathan Blutinger, PhD, food robotics engineer and postdoctoral fellow, Columbia Engineering 2065: Home Meat Cultivator Animal agriculture comes with a lot of downsides: carbon emissions, welfare issues, antimicrobial resistance, and food security questions. The Home Meat Cultivator, which looks and operates a little bit like a stainless-steel microbrewer used to make beer, helps you produce your own meat without harming the environment. Prefilled pods of animal cells and nutrients are plugged into the device and grown into juicy pork chops, plump shrimp, or tender ground lamb. Once users get the hang of it, they can customize their pods to make, for example, steaks with the texture and nutritional profile of salmon. What would you create? —Claire Bomkamp, PhD, lead scientist and cultivated meat and seafood specialist, The Good Food Institute Imagine this: A tiny robotic chef assembles and cooks blueberry breakfast muffins that have your ideal crumb and are nutritionally optimized based on your biometric data. Just before lunch an internet-connected storage container in your fridge fires a notification to your phone telling you, “It’s really time to eat the bell peppers before they spoil.” And instead of going to the store to buy steak for dinner, you’ll grab a perfectly marbled hunk of flesh that’s been cultivated from animal cells in the mini bioreactor on your kitchen counter. These fictional appliances might sound like props in a science fiction movie, but experts say they’re grounded in reality (well, mostly). Emerging scientific and technological innovations like 3D printing and artificial intelligence will power our future kitchen appliances—but it’s climate and human health concerns that will really drive their innovation. “Food waste is such a big problem in advanced economies, while food insecurity continues to rise globally,” says Lisa Yong, director of consumer technology at global trend-forecasting agency WGSN. The best future kitchen appliances will not only perform multiple cooking functions well, she anticipates, but will also help us reduce energy consumption, increase personal nutrition, and prevent looming resource scarcity. To envision the future of home cooking, we gave technology writers, scientists, designers, chefs, and engineers an assignment: Invent a kitchen appliance that could hit shelves sometime in the next 50 years. Here are their predictions. BLEEP, BLOOP, COOK Designers, tech writers, chefs, and scientists rub their palms together and predict the future of kitchen appliances BY ALI FRANCIS

74 With Almond Cow, EverythingIs Milk BY KAREN YUAN Ever had the pleasure of drinking fresh almond milk? It’s richer, nuttier, and creamier than anything store-bought. I’m lactose intolerant, so milk alternatives are staples in my breakfasts and coffees. They have to be planned for in advance—at least the night before—and since I have the attention span of a squirrel, I’ve never been able to successfully carry out all the steps (soak, blend, strain). But recently, I’ve discovered a way for my lazy self to still whip some up at home without the hassle. Almond Cow ($245; almondcow.co), an electric plant-based milk maker, simplifies the process. For my first batch I followed the brand’s coconut cashew milk recipe, which required zero soaking. I added water, cashews, and seasonings (chopped dates, coconut shreds, vanilla) and pressed the cowshaped button. In 55 seconds (I timed it), I had a frothy, creamy, subtly sweet drink that tasted fresher than anything from a carton—perfect for cereal, smoothies, and oatmeal. Plus, it can handle more than just nuts. This Wonka-like contraption can milkify avocados, flaxseed, even potatoes (the included recipe book is a great guide). I tested out corn— with great anticipation—and now I’m suddenly a corn milk person. If you’re an absolute fanatic for nondairy milk, which Almond Cow is slowly turning me into, you’re in for a life-changing experience. Did I need an Almond Cow in my life? No. Is it teaching me to dream a little bigger when it comes to breakfast beverages? Absolutely.

75 THE COUNTERTOP AIR FRYER BY JESSE SZEWCZYK While an air fryer might seem like it falls in the “nice to have” category, mine has become invaluable. Whether I’m cooking frozen dumplings, reheating leftovers, or starting a dish from scratch, it’s now an essential part of my weeknight dinner routine. An air fryer works by constantly circulating hot air, mimicking the powerful convection ovens found in restaurant kitchens (but its compact size means it works even faster). It speeds up cooking, keeping food from drying out, and delivers unbeatable crunchy textures. You can revive day-old pizza or quickly make tender, golden brown butternut squash without having to use much oil. Anything that would benefit from a crispy exterior, whether that’s skin-on chicken thighs or breaded cutlets, gets there faster, stays juicier, and boasts an even better texture than it would in an oven. It’s also a lifesaver during hot summer months: Instead of preheating my oven, which in turn heats up my entire apartment, I turn on the air fryer. It’s one of those rare kitchen appliances that not only makes cooking easier but actually produces a far superior product. AIR FRYER GARLICNORI FRIES 6 SERVINGS Inspired by the fries at Wenwen, chef Eric Sze’s Taiwanese restaurant in New York City, this version shows off the air fryer’s best trait—reheating frozen snacks. Only textured fries (like crinkle- or waffle-cut) will do—their grooves and ridges turn exceptionally crisp in the fryer and expertly hold on to the spirited, salty seaweed seasoning. 1 32-oz. bag frozen crinkle-cut or waffle-cut fries 2 .35-oz. packages seasoned toasted seaweed snacks 1 chicken bouillon cube (preferably Knorr) 1 Tbsp. sugar 1½ tsp. garlic powder ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt ½ cup mayonnaise 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped, divided 1 Tbsp. (or more) vegetable oil Heat air fryer to 400°. Working in 2 batches, spread out fries on fryer tray in an even layer and cook, tossing halfway through, until golden brown and crisp, 6–12 minutes. Meanwhile, using your fingers, mix seaweed, bouillon cube, sugar, garlic powder, and salt in a small bowl, crushing seaweed into small shards and rubbing bouillon into sugar and salt, until well combined. Stir mayonnaise and one third of chopped garlic in another small bowl. Transfer fries to a large bowl. Drizzle with oil (this will help the toppings adhere), then scatter seaweed mixture and remaining chopped garlic over. Toss to coat, adding up to 1 Tbsp. more oil if needed. Pile fries in a shallow bowl; top with any seaweed mixture and garlic left in bowl. Serve with garlic mayonnaise for dipping. Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer Pro ($400; breville.com)

76 PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF AMAZON (TOASTER); COURTESY OF SONOS (SPEAKER); COURTESY OF ALMOND COW (ALMOND COW); COURTESY OF AMAZON (RICE MAKER).

77 THEICE CREAM MAKER BY SHILPA USKOKOVIC I’m going to need someone to explain to me the value of no-churn ice cream. In a nation obsessed with ice cream (the US ranks number two in the world for ice cream consumption per capita), there’s no dearth of good, even great, icy treats that are incredibly easy to come by. At your local grocery store, in the diner you hit in that lakeside town you went to in the summer of 2018—America is filled with excellent commercial ice cream no matter where you look. So when I make it at home, I want to make the real deal, the better-than-store-bought kind with wild, reckless flavors that beget the question, “Are you high?” Not some no-churn version that tastes like compromise and condensed milk. In this pursuit, only an ice cream machine can deliver. Yes, it’s single-use. (Actually, it’s not. You can make really good frozen margaritas in one (see p. 6). You’re welcome.) Yes, it takes up appreciable cabinet space. But the payoff from the very first pint is so, so sweet. You can make frozen custard, and gelato, and ice cream, and sorbet. Each so fresh tasting,so creamy and supple you might henceforth beg offstore-bought. With a bit of planning and freezer space, a model where you freeze the insulated bowl insert first (for at least eight hours) is your best bet at home. I love the Cuisinart Frozen Yogurt-Ice Cream and Sorbet Maker. It consistently makes ice cream from a cold base in under 20 minutes, always a good thing when it comes to ice cream making (the quicker the churn, the smaller the ice crystals and smoother the end result). These types of machines are often affordable and dependable because the technology is minimal, and it’s my preferred choice over machines with a built-in compressor. CANNOLI ICE CREAM MAKES 1 QUART This recipe captures all the qualities of a great cannoli in an equally enjoyable frozen format. The egg-free custard allows the fresh-milk ricotta flavor to shine through without the bother of separating or tempering egg yolks. The crushed sugar cones soften to a delightful chew in the ice cream, which is scooped into cones to mimic the sensation of biting into a crisp cannoli shell. Zest of 1 large lemon ¾ cup (150 g) sugar ¼ cup (80 g) honey 2½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1½ tsp. Morton kosher salt 2¼ cups half-and-half, divided 1 Tbsp. cornstarch 2 oz. cream cheese 1¼ cups whole-milk ricotta 2 sugar cones, coarsely crushed, plus more for serving ¼ cup (40 g) coarsely chopped orange-flavored chocolate (such as Lindt) ¼ cup (30 g) raw pistachios, preferably Iranian or Sicilian, coarsely chopped Heat lemon zest, sugar, honey, salt, and 2 cups half-and-half in a medium saucepan over medium, whisking occasionally, just until sugar is dissolved and mixture is steaming, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk cornstarch and remaining ¼ cup half-and-half in a medium bowl until smooth. Add cornstarch mixture to saucepan; reserve bowl. Cook, whisking constantly, until custard is thickened and large bubbles break on surface, 6–9 minutes; remove from heat. Place cream cheese and ricotta in reserved bowl. Pour about one quarter of hot custard over; whisk vigorously until smooth, about 2 minutes. Pour in remaining custard and whisk to combine. Let cool, whisking occasionally, about 20 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a small bowl. Cover ice cream base and chill until thick, at least 4 hours. Transfer ice cream base to ice cream maker and process according to manufacturer’s directions until the consistency of soft-serve. Add crushed sugar cones, chocolate, and pistachios and run machine for a few minutes to evenly distribute. Scrape ice cream into an airtight container and press plastic wrap directly onto surface. Cover and freeze until firm, at least 2 hours. Scoop ice cream into cones. DO AHEAD: Ice cream base can be made 4 days ahead; keep chilled. Ice cream can be made up to 3 days ahead for best texture; keep frozen. Cuisinart Frozen Yogurt-Ice Cream and Sorbet Maker ($70; cuisinart.com)

Food styling by Micah Morton Prop styling by Sean Dooley By KENDRA VACULIN Photographs by ISA ZAPATA Whetheryou need to get dinner on thetablein a hurry or haveafull dayat the beach beforeit’s timeto light thecoals, thesesummergrillingrecipesemploy smart marinades to setyou up for flavor success My summer grilling exploits go one of two ways. Either I plan the menu weeksin advance, scribbling grocery lists in the margins of my work notebook and scheduling prep by the hour, or I wake up some Saturday with the immediate, fervid desire to light my charcoal Smokey Joe. Both versions are great because either way the day ends with the smell of smoke in my hair and something with grill marks on the table. But my approach to marinating differs depending on the circumstances. While many ingredients benefit from a bath in a flavorful brew, some need just a speedy dunk, whereas others get better with an overnight soak. I let the clock be my guide and opt for proteins that I know will take on maximum flavor in whatever time I have. That’s where these five recipes come in, ranging in marinade time from shorter than a sitcom episode to as long as a 24-hour getaway. No matter what your countdown looks like, they’re here to help you get your grill on—with options for carnivores, seafood lovers, and vegetarians alike. 78

15 MIN LemonyScallopsand Blistered Long Beans P.83 Seafood is the poster child for speedy marinating— a quick bath is all it needs to take on flavor, and it cooks in minutes. In fact, any longer than a 15-minute soak and the acidic compo-

80 1 HR 30 + MIN Bulgogi Tofu Burgers P.83 While it takes a while for marinades to work their way into meat, pressed tofu acts like a sponge, soaking up a ton of flavor in no time at all. Tangy ChickenWingsWith Quick Giardiniera P.84 Make use of this dish’s chill time for these chicken wings by quick-pickling a crunchy vegetable accompaniment while you wait.

83 2 HRs + SteakhouseSaladWith Balsamicand Blue Cheese Skirt steak takes well to marinades because of its loose muscle structure, and pricking it all over with a knife helps even more flavor to penetrate. Two hours givesthe tough cut enough time to tenderize and take on the savory brightness of balsamic vinegar and Worcestershire sauce. STEAKHOUSE SALAD WITH BALSAMIC AND BLUE CHEESE 46 SERVINGS You may be tempted to eat this crazytangy balsamic-blasted steak all by itself, but it truly shines alongside funky blue cheese, juicy tomatoes, and delightfully oversize croutons. 1¼ lb. skirt steak 3 garlic cloves, finely grated ¼ cup Worcestershire sauce ¼ tsp. cayenne pepper ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided ¼ cup plus 3 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. pure maple syrup 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more 1 tsp. freshly ground pepper, plus more Vegetable oil (for grill and rubbing) ½ loaf country-style bread, torn into 4" pieces 2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 1 large head of romaine lettuce, leaves separated, torn 1 large tomato, cut into wedges 3 oz. Danish blue cheese, thinly sliced, broken into large pieces Pat steak dry with paper towels; halve crosswise if too long to fit on grill. Prick all over with a paring knife. Combine garlic, Worcestershire sauce, cayenne, ¼ cup olive oil, ¼ cup vinegar, 1 Tbsp. maple syrup, 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and 1 tsp. black pepper in a large resealable plastic bag. Add steak and seal bag; massage steak to coat. Chill at least 2 hours and, preferably, up to 6 hours. Let steak sit at room temperature 30 minutes before grilling. Prepare a grill for medium-high heat; oil grate with vegetable oil. Toss bread with ¼ cup olive oil in a large bowl to coat. Grill bread, turning occasionally with tongs, until golden brown and lightly charred in spots, about 1 minute. Return to bowl and season with salt. Remove steak from marinade, letting excess drip back into bag, and pat dry with paper towels. Lightly rub all over with vegetable oil. Grill steak until evenly charred and medium-rare (an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of steak should register 125°), about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest 10–15 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk mustard and remaining 3 Tbsp. vinegar and 1 tsp. maple syrup in a large bowl; season with salt. Slowly stream in remaining ¼ cup olive oil, whisking constantly until dressing is emulsified. Add lettuce and tomato to dressing and toss to coat. Tear bread into very large pieces and add to salad; toss again. Transfer salad to a platter or divide among plates. Thinly slice steak against the grain and arrange on top; drizzle any accumulated juices over. Top with blue cheese and season with black pepper. LEMONY SCALLOPS AND BLISTERED LONG BEANS 34 SERVINGS Long beans are well worth seeking out at Asian markets—they’re fun to eat and easy to grill since they won’t fall through the grate. If you can’t find them, regular green beans will work too. Just be sure to grill the green beans perpendicular to the grate. ⅓ cup fresh lemon juice 1 Tbsp. soy sauce 2 tsp. honey 2 tsp. mild chile flakes (such as Aleppo-style or Marash) ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for grill and drizzling 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more 12 dry large sea scallops, side muscle removed, patted dry 1 lb. Chinese long beans or green beans, trimmed Lemon wedges (for serving) Flaky sea salt SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: Three or four 8" metal skewers or bamboo skewers, soaked 30 minutes Whisk lemon juice, soy sauce, honey, mild chile flakes, red pepper flakes, ¼ cup oil, and 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt in a small bowl. Add scallops and turn to coat. Cover and chill 15 minutes (don’t be tempted to marinate scallops longer). Meanwhile, prepare a grill for medium-high heat; clean and oil grate. Place long beans on a rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with oil, and turn to coat. Season with kosher salt. Remove scallops from marinade, letting excess drip back into bowl, and thread onto skewers. Place scallops on grate (if possible, arrange skewers with handles hanging off edge of grill to make turning easier). Grill scallops until just cooked through and deep brown marks appear, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a large plate. Arrange long beans on grate and grill, turning often with tongs, until blistered and charred in spots, about 4 minutes. Transfer long beans to a platter and arrange skewers on top. Drizzle with oil and squeeze juice from some lemon wedges over. Sprinkle with sea salt. Serve with more lemon wedges. BULGOGI TOFU BURGERS 6 SERVINGS The sweet-and-savory marinade here relies on blended ripe pear for subtle fruitiness and gochugaru chile flakes for heat. It also doubles as the base for an easy, creamy condiment for the assembled burgers. 1 English hothouse cucumber, thinly sliced on a diagonal ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt 6 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar, divided 2 14-oz. blocks extra-firm tofu, drained 1 ripe pear, cored, coarsely chopped 1 2" piece ginger, peeled, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves ¼ cup soy sauce 2 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil 1 Tbsp. brown sugar 1 Tbsp. gochugaru (coarse Korean red pepper powder) 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil, plus more for grill 2 Tbsp. gochujang (Korean hot pepper paste) 6 hamburger buns, split ⅓ cup mayonnaise Toss cucumber with salt and 3 Tbsp. vinegar in a medium bowl. Let sit at room temperature, tossing occasionally, until ready to serve. Wrap each block of tofu in a few layers of paper towels and place on rimmed baking sheets. Weigh down each with a heavy object, such as a cast-iron skillet, and let sit 15 minutes. Meanwhile, purée pear, ginger, garlic, soy sauce, sesame oil, brown sugar, gochugaru, 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil, and continues on page 84

84 4 HRs + remaining 3 Tbsp. vinegar in a blender until very smooth. Pour half of marinade into a large baking dish. Unwrap tofu and slice each block crosswise into 6 slabs. Arrange tofu in a single layer in baking dish, then pour remaining marinade over. Cover and chill 30 minutes. Prepare a grill for medium-high heat; clean and oil grate. Remove tofu from marinade, letting excess drip back into dish, and transfer to a clean rimmed baking sheet; reserve marinade for glazing and making sauce. Whisk gochujang into reserved marinade. Place tofu on grate, brush with marinade, and grill until deep brown marks appear, about 5 minutes. Carefully turn tofu over and brush second side with marinade. Grill until deep brown marks appear, about 5 minutes. Return tofu to baking sheet. Toast buns, cut side down, on grill until golden brown, about 1 minute. Transfer to plates. Whisk mayonnaise and 3 Tbsp. marinade in a small bowl. Spread cut sides of buns with sauce. Build burgers with 2 slabs of tofu each, followed by some pickled cucumber slices. DO AHEAD: Cucumber can be pickled 1 day ahead. Cover and chill. TANGY CHICKEN WINGS WITH QUICK GIARDINIERA 46 SERVINGS In this recipe the building blocks of Buffalo wings—saucy chicken, cheesy dip, crunchy veg—get turned ever so slightly on their heads. A whipped feta swoosh provides creaminess and zing, while celery, carrots, and cauliflower florets get a speedy giardiniera treatment for briny crunch. ⅓ cup double-concentrated tomato paste 1 Tbsp. garlic powder 1 Tbsp. Italian seasoning 1 Tbsp. smoked paprika 1¼ cups white wine vinegar, divided ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for grill 4 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 2½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided 2 lb. chicken wings, flats and drumettes separated, patted dry ½ medium head of cauliflower, cut into florets 1 large carrot, peeled, cut into 3"-long sticks 3 celery stalks, cut into 3"-long sticks ½ cup pickled hot cherry peppers, halved, plus ¼ cup brine 2 Tbsp. sugar 12 oz. feta 2 Tbsp. buttermilk or sour cream Freshly ground pepper Hot honey (for serving) Whisk tomato paste, garlic powder, Italian seasoning, paprika, ¼ cup vinegar, ¼ cup oil, and 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a medium bowl. Add chicken wings and toss to coat. Cover and chill at least 1 hour and, preferably, up to 3 hours. Meanwhile, place cauliflower, carrot, celery, and cherry peppers in a medium heatproof bowl. Bring sugar and remaining 1 cup vinegar and 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt to a simmer in a small saucepan, stirring to dissolve sugar. Remove from heat and stir in cherry pepper brine; pour mixture over vegetables. Let sit 15 minutes, then chill until ready to serve. Combine feta and buttermilk in a food processor; season generously with black pepper. Process until very smooth, about 3 minutes. Set whipped feta aside. Prepare a grill for medium heat; oil grate. Remove chicken wings from marinade, letting excess drip back into bowl, and arrange on grate. Cover and grill, turning occasionally, until charred in spots and an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of a wing registers 165°, 20–25 minutes. To serve, spread reserved whipped feta on a platter; arrange chicken wings on top. Tuck drained pickled vegetables around. Drizzle hot honey over. DO AHEAD: Vegetables can be pickled 1 day ahead. Cover and keep chilled. MOJO PORK SHOULDER STEAKS AND PLANTAINS 4 SERVINGS Citrus and garlic do double duty in this summer-ready main: first, as a marinade for thickly sliced boneless pork shoulder, then as a dressing for a tomato and red onion topper. PORK 6 garlic cloves, finely grated ½ cup fresh lime juice ½ cup fresh orange juice ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 Tbsp. ground cumin 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt 2 tsp. dried oregano 2 lb. boneless pork shoulder (Boston butt), fat cap trimmed if needed, sliced crosswise ¾" thick PLANTAINS AND ASSEMBLY 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved, quartered if large 1 garlic clove, finely grated ¼ cup fresh lime juice 2 Tbsp. fresh orange juice 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for grill and drizzling Kosher salt 4 large very ripe (black) plantains, peeled, halved lengthwise Cilantro leaves with tender stems and/or mint leaves (for serving) Flaky sea salt PORK Combine garlic, lime juice, orange juice, oil, cumin, kosher salt, and oregano in a large resealable plastic bag. Add pork and seal bag; massage steaks to coat. Chill at least 4 hours and, preferably, up to 1 day. Let pork sit at room temperature 30 minutes before grilling. PLANTAINS AND ASSEMBLY Toss red onion, tomatoes, garlic, lime juice, orange juice, and 1 Tbsp. oil in a medium bowl to combine. Season generously with kosher salt; toss again. Let tomato salad sit until ready to serve. Prepare a grill for medium-high heat; oil grate. Place plantains on a rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with oil; turn to coat. Season generously with kosher salt. Grill plantains until deep brown marks appear, about 3 minutes per side. Return to baking sheet. Remove pork from marinade, letting excess drip back into bag, and grill, turning every minute, until lightly charred and an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of a steak registers 140°, 7–9 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest 5–10 minutes. Transfer plantains to a platter or divide among plates. Thinly slice pork against the grain and arrange alongside plantains. Drizzle any accumulated juices over tomato salad; toss to combine. Spoon salad over pork; drizzle any dressing left in bowl over. Top with cilantro and/or mint and season with sea salt. Mojo PorkShoulderSteaks and Plantains Hearty pork shoulder is made for long marinating. Four hours will yield great results, but setting it up a day ahead of grilling will imbue the meat with even more garlicky, citrusy flavor.

86 AUGUST 2023 PHOTOGRAPH BY ISA ZAPATA. FOOD STYLING BY JUDY KIM. PROP STYLING BY GÖZDE EKER. RecipeIndex Actually-Vegan Cream of Tomato Soup P. 69 GRILL THE COVER Chinese Barbecue Pork Chops p.54 APPETIZER Air Fryer Garlic-Nori Fries p.75 BREAD Surprisingly Simple Sandwich Bread p.71 A Waffle Worth Waiting For p.67 BREAKFAST A Waffle Worth Waiting For p.67 SALADS Grilled Corn Tiger Salad p.48 Jammy Cumin Plums and Feta Salad p.62 Steakhouse Salad With Balsamic and Blue Cheese p.83 SOUP Actually-Vegan Cream of Tomato Soup p.69 MAIN COURSES MEAT Chinese Barbecue Pork Chops p.54 Free-Form Kebabs With Herby Onions p.22 Grilled Pork With Spicy Raspberry Chimichurri p.58 Mojo Pork Shoulder Steaks and Plantains p.84 Mustardy Grilled Cabbage and Kielbasa p.18 Red Curry Pork With Rice Cakes p.35 Steakhouse Salad With Balsamic and Blue Cheese p.83 Steak With Preserved-Lemon-Marinated Tomatoes p.61 PASTA Red Curry Pasta p.34 POULTRY Cajun Chicken With Peach Salsa p.61 Easy-to-Love Chicken Thighs and Couscous p.24 Falafel-Spiced Turkey Burgers p.36 Red Curry Chicken Salad p.34 Tangy Chicken Wings With Quick Giardiniera p.84 SEAFOOD Jerk Shrimp With Pineapple Salad p.20 Lemony Scallops and Blistered Long Beans p.83 Shrimp With Feta and Tomatoes p.45 VEGETARIAN Actually-Vegan Cream of Tomato Soup p.69 Bulgogi Tofu Burgers p.83 Red Curry Pasta p.34 VEGETABLES, SIDE DISHES Air Fryer Garlic-Nori Fries p.75 Grilled Corn Tiger Salad p.48 Grilled Squash With Nuoc Cham Chimichurri p.53 Jammy Cumin Plums and Feta Salad p.62 Lemony Zucchini With Sour Cream and Dill p.58 Mouthwatering Charred Beets With Ricotta p.48 MISCELLANEOUS BA’s Best Pesto p.14 DESSERTS Cannoli Ice Cream p.77 Miso and Maple Pecan-Butter Mochi Cake p.54 Sour Cherry Crumb Cake p.26 The Strawberriest Pavlova p.62 BON APPÉTIT IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2023 CONDÉ NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.VOLUME 68, NO. 6. Bon Appétit (ISSN 0006-6990) is published ten times a year by Condé Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. Roger Lynch, Chief Executive Officer; Pamela Drucker Mann, Global Chief Revenue Officer & President, U.S. Revenue & APAC; Nick Hotchkin, Chief Financial Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY,and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 423242885-RT0001. POSTMASTER: SEND ALL UAA TO CFS. (SEE DMM 707.4.12.5); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: SEND ADDRESS CORRECTIONS TO Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617, call 800-765-9419, or email [email protected]. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. SUBSCRIBERS: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within eight weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to BonAppétit Magazine,1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. For reprints, please email [email protected] or call Wright’s Media at 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please email contentlicensing@condenast. com or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at BonAppetit.com. To subscribe to other Condé Nast brands, visit condenast.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617 or call 800-765-9419. BON APPÉTIT IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ARTWORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ARTWORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY BON APPÉTIT IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

Try substituting it for ground spices in your favorite grilling recipes. It’s great swapped for the seasoning in the Cajun Chicken and Peach Salsa on page 61. Take your grilling to the next level with our BON APPÉTIT X BURLAP & BARREL SPICY & SMOKY GRILLING RUB SCAN TO SHOP

Dream Dinner Party 88 AUGUST 2023 Kevin Hart Is All Business For the on-again, off-again vegan, the meal is simple but the convo is serious a resource for so many. I would love to talk to him about what the ultimate goal is for Amazon. Where are they going? And how do they want to get there? Because I imagine they feel they’re only halfway done. And Kobe? Kobe Bryant because of his spirit, his will—the ambition and dedication that he attached to his craft. He was an extremely committed person. To tap into and understand that energy in-depth would be pretty amazing. The lessons would be invaluable. You hear footsteps. It’s a surprise guest! A comedian or one of the actors with whom you’ve teamed up. Who do you hope it will be and why? I’m going with Chris Rock. That’s my guy. We’re extremely close. It’s always a good time when he’s there. Ali Wong said the same thing! Okay, what’s on the menu? I’m pretty simple. Chicken, fried rice, Caesar salad. Unless I’m eating vegan, then I’ll swap out the chicken for a plant-based version. Nothing too heavy because I want the energy to be in the conversation. I am not an adventurous eater. Speaking of following a vegan diet (occasionally), the chain of fast-casual restaurants that you started in California, Hart House, is one hundred percent vegan. What inspired that? It is all about having an option. Looking at the fast-food chains out there, they’ve been the same for years except for a few new ones like Shake Shack and Raising Cane’s. I wondered what was available for the plant-based customer. As a long-time occasional vegan, I wanted to create that. I watched a Bon Appétit video with you and sommelier André Mack and learned that you have a vineyard in your backyard in California. Is there a future in which I can buy a Hart Sauvignon Blanc at the supermarket? Ha! I have about six barrels that are ready to be bottled. But no, it’s not for commercial use. It’s for my family, my kids—when they are grown, of course! Kevin, you’re an enigma. You say you eat to live as opposed to live to eat, yet you own restaurants and can rattle off your favorite Philadelphia hoagie spots like a true food obsessive. And you entertain on the regular. So who gets invited to your dream dinner? Only two people: Jeff Bezos and Kobe Bryant. Why those two? Jeff Bezos because of the way Amazon has grown over the years; it has become BY DAWN DAVIS ILLUSTRATION BY JONNY RUZZO Kevin Hart isa multihyphenate publicfigure— he’s a comedian, an actor, and an entrepreneur. Here he reveals the (tight) invite list for a fantasy meal that sounds more like a Harvard Business School master class, with a cafeteria-esque menu to match. But we’re not here to judge!

NAME YOUR DINNER EMERGENCY— OUR IS HERE TO HELP.