Waterway Explorer Magazine 2022

Our 75th Year

The connections deteriorated and within a few days the

“plug was crackling and smoking like bacon on a hot griddle.”

2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 49

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50 waterwayguide.com

Onancock, VA: Our 75th Year

WJoourrthnetyhe “...As all boaters know,

getting to your destination
is half the fun...”

Tidal creeks, marshes and waterfront is ample distance for fetch from all directions
communities pepper The Eastern Shore, a except NE through SE. Plan accordingly and
peninsula separating the Atlantic Ocean remember that weather forecasts for land interests
and the Chesapeake Bay. A favorite stop for the seldom convey what you will experience on
Waterway Guide team is historic Onancock the Chesapeake Bay. Be prepared for afternoon
(pronounced “oh-NAN-kok”), located in the thermal activity (sea breeze) in warmer months
center of the Eastern Shore. that often causes chop that small power boats may
find uncomfortable and that will impact progress.
As all boaters know, getting to your destination Sailors will appreciate the lift but summer
is half the fun, and a trip to Onancock does not thunderstorms are a bane to all. Be prepared and
disappoint. Situated at one of the widest points know your vessel and your personal limits.
of the Chesapeake Bay (latitude 37° 43’), there

2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 51

The 5-mile trip up picturesque Onancock artisans. And if you time your trip well, you
Creek is a delightful way to unwind from the may see a live performance at the 37-year-old
open water of the Chesapeake and provides community theater.
ample time to reflect on the history of where
you are headed. Onancock was founded If you are inclined to stick your head in shops
in 1680 as Port Scarborough. One of the and restaurants and strike up conversations,
Country’s oldest communities, it has a rich you will find that the locals are generous with
history with a nautical heritage. their time and will most definitely make you
feel welcome. You may decide to get off the
As soon as you dock your vessel in the new boat and stay awhile at one of the local inns or
floating slips on the Onancock waterfront bed & breakfasts.
(with amenities including free laundry and
clean private showers), you will see that this For a complete list of all the offerings,
waterfront town has plenty to offer. Within visit www.experienceonancock.com.
an easy walk of the marina is the downtown
area with a number of high-quality Walk the quiet side streets along the
restaurants, cafés and bistros. The shops meandering north, central and south branches
and galleries offer even the most eclectic of Onancock Creek and you are sure to discover
tastes a unique experience. The museums why John Smith called Onancock “the gem of
beautifully share the rich history of the town Virginia’s Eastern Shore.” Like modern-day
and region, and the former high school has adventurers, Capt. Smith obviously found the
been renovated to house local artists and destination to be worth the effort. We hope
to see you there. ß

52 waterwayguide.com

Our 75th Year

MUNICIPAL MARINA

Latitude 27N 46’ 12.36” Longitude 82W 37’ 47.38”

http://www.stpete.org/parks_and_recreation/marina/

Tampa BayIn beautiful When cruising the warm blue
waters of the Gulf of Mexico be
sure to chart your course into
Tampa Bay and our beautiful
Municipal Marina! Located on
the western side of Tampa Bay,
on the point of Demens Landing,
you will dock in the heart of St.
Petersburg’s beautiful downtown
waterfront district.

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or Toll Free at

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• Transients & Pets Welcome
• Walk to Restaurants, Groceries, Shops, Inns, Art
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• Fresh Water & 15-100 amp Electric
• Gas, Diesel & Propane • Showers & Restrooms

• Bicycle Rentals • Golf & Tennis Nearby
• Bike or Walk to North Ferry to Greenport
• Shuttle Service to South Ferry to Hamptons

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Bridge Street In Shelter Island Heights, NY 11965

2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 53

HILTON HEAD ISLAND

S C MHELTER OVE ARINA

Dock. Shop. Dine. Play.

Located in the middle of Hilton Head Island across from Palmetto Dunes Oceanfront Resort
and just off the Intracoastal Waterway, Shelter Cove Harbour & Marina offers easy access
to great shopping & restaurants plus bikes, watersports, golf, tennis & pickleball.

The Ship’s Store offers a large selection of apparel, accessories, convenience items & fishing tackle.
• Floating docks / vessels up to 150 feet • Electrical: 30, 50, 100 amp • 9' MLW, well marked channel

• Pump-out boat • Monitor channel 16/71 • Restrooms, showers, laundry • Grocery store nearby
• Full service yacht maintenance • Wi-Fi internet access & cable available • Seasonal resort shuttle

1 Shelter Cove Ln, Hilton Head Island, SC 29928 • 844-238-3237 • ShelterCoveHiltonHead.com

ok WLLooohokokW’sWhoOh’soOn’sn On
ardBBWooaaridtrdhWWiUthsiUt.hs....U. s..

By Ed Tillett, Editor-in-Chief

“When it comes time to

repair, update or install
who do you trust?”

56 waterwayguide.com

K eeping our boats ship shape Our 75th Year
is a term with so many twists
and turns that the thought of 2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 57
undertaking a project today can keep
you awake at night wondering just
how it’s going to get done. If you are a
hands-on owner and have little fear of
jumping into electronics, mechanical or
carpentry projects your options are often
manageable. You can define the scope of
the work, research the requirements and
move forward until the job is completed.
But many installations, repairs and
maintenance require skills that many of
us don’t have or must be attended to by
qualified and credentialed technicians.

When you need the expertise and facilities
of a boat yard your assessment of, and
pending relationship with, that yard is
the most important first step in successful
completion and satisfaction of the work.
As a lifelong boat owner and dedicated do-
it-yourselfer who often needs a yard, I have
confronted circumstances and arrived at
situations over the years that should have
been thought through before committing
to the projects. And I learned some
important lessons along the way.

We all want our boats to be safe with all
systems operating properly. Whether you
own a 16-foot runabout, a 60-foot classic
yacht, or a 44-foot ocean sailor, today’s
electronics, engines and plumbing are
more complex than ever. When it comes
time to repair, update or install who do
you trust? How do you confirm that you
are making the right decision about costs
and expertise? What kind of relationship
do you want with the yard? What does
the yard want from you the customer,
beyond timely payment?

ZMI’s Perspectives Steve says that the biggest challenge
for maintenance and repair
Waterway Guide’s staff and editors comprise a personnel in the marine industry
large number of boat owners. Our business puts is the need to service a wide range
us front and center with manufacturers and of brands and equipment. Steve
service facilities that stretch across the U.S. and puts it this way, “In general, as
beyond. Zimmerman Marine is local to our offices we have moved into increased
and has distinguished itself over the years as a complexity with everything we
forward thinking and respected team of dedicated own, the service model has shifted
men and women. Steve Zimmerman is a lifelong to greater depth and narrow
boat builder and founder of Zimmerman Marine breadth. In other words, service
who expresses openly his philosophy of customer- technicians are progressively more
centric service and fairness. Recently interviewed knowledgeable and skilled in a very
for this article, Steve offered some candid insight specific brand or component. But
into the nuances of today’s environment inside the boat repair business demands
boat yards. With seven locations along the east the opposite. We have to be able
coast, the employee-owned yards are involved in to service all kinds of boats and
multiple projects and disciplines with hundreds of a dizzying array of equipment.
boats under their care. For this reason, the time and cost
required to diagnose and solve
58 waterwayguide.com problems can be longer than many
customers might expect.”

Our 75th Year

For instance, one manufacturer may install an electronics package comprising radar, chart plotter,
auto helm, depth sounder, VHF radios with AIS, and engine sensors all feeding a multifunctional
display, or more. And there may be devices from different manufacturers connected using a standard
communications protocol. If something fails, technicians must be trained and up-to-date on the operating
systems and interdependencies of each of those units. Or know where to go to find the answers when
trouble shooting. Engine rooms, generators, transmissions, rigging, hull construction
and running gear all roll up into this same example.
Maintenance personnel in boatyards walk a tight rope of knowing where to find answers while calling
on their previous experiences and assessment skills. For those of us who want to ensure that our vessels
are repaired quickly and correctly, we have two options. Either begin the relationship with a discussion of
our expectations, deadlines and budget or ask the boatyard to perform the work it believes is needed and
simply pay the invoices when they come due. My experience is that reality is somewhere in the middle.

2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 59

Given that variables are immense in boat repair and the pool of talent to conduct those tasks limited,
Zimmerman Marine has developed a service model comprising internal resources to support repair
and maintenance activities. As Steve explains, it’s a company “yellow pages” concept where team
members list their knowledge and experience for others to call on when needed. There is also a “task-
based” training program where technicians access information and then test their understanding of the
details. Finally, Zimmerman Marine maintains documentation of in-depth service procedures for
technicians to use when approaching a task or project.

For those of us who want to be engaged along the way in getting our vessels repaired
or updated for our next great on-the-water adventure, how do we approach the
boatyard? My recommendation is that it’s best to schedule a short conversation
with the manager or owner of the yard and have your expectations and
deadlines prepared on paper and send the document in advance of your
meeting. Keep it simple, short and concise. You may have 10 items that
need attention, or just a few. Your checklist is an excellent way for the
yard to begin its estimate and for you to assess the yard’s interest in
working with you.

Time is money and the one thing that we cannot buy. Respect
the yard’s time and what they charge. At the same time,
confirm what you are paying for in advance. As Steve says, “At
Zimmerman we struggle with customers who want to purchase
their own materials and then monitor a technician’s time to
confirm billable hours. There are tasks and behind the scenes
efforts that may not be evident if you are simply watching a
technician getting on and off your vessel. That is usually not
a recipe that works for the customer or the boatyard.”

On the other hand, there are yards that accommodate those
provisions and will work alongside owners in varying degrees.
Identifying your requirements, expectations and objectives
up front almost always results in better relationships and
timely completion of tasks. Discussing charges and invoices
after they come due is difficult for everyone. Ask for progress
billing in addition to a formal estimate up front if you are
watching the budget.

“Time is money and the one

thing that we cannot buy.”

60 waterwayguide.com

Our 75th Year

2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 61

10 Points to Consider The recent upsurge in boating ownership and interest in
spending time on the water means that an increasing number
All boats require maintenance and of new boaters, and those returning to their vessels after
repairs at some time in their lives. To many years away, will experience sticker shock – or invoice
protect your sanity when that time shock – if they don’t prepare themselves for the charges that
comes consider this checklist approach: will come when their vessels come out of the yard. And the
spread between expectations and reality can be very, very
1. Confirm and set an large. It’s the single most reported reasons for complaints and
annual maintenance negative reviews against service facilities in the Waterway
budget for the boat. Guide database. As Steve says, “Owners rarely have accurate
expectations of costs when we begin to estimate their work.
2. Arrive at the budget by doing Work should not be approved without some understanding
some basic research on the type about possible costs, or risk factors that might impact costs.”
of vessel and its systems.
Boat ownership is supposed to be fun. For those who make
3. I f you are a do-it-yourself a lifestyle commitment to long stretches aboard, whether
type, determine your own in their first big boat, or following years of preparation,
skills and commitment to the need for maintenance and repairs become evident
specific tasks that will not early on. How we deal with those eventualities defines our
require outside labor. satisfaction. On-the-water adventures and boat ownership
are not for the faint of heart. But preparation and realistic
4. Confirm that you don’t need budgeting should keep you smiling along the way. ß
special qualifications to
conduct certain tasks specific Note: Ed has owned, refurbished and maintained various
to your insurance regulations boats over the years including a 16-foot Hobie catamaran,
or overall safety. 33-foot Tartan, 1947 60-foot single planked Trumpy, 30-foot
classic catboat, and a 50-foot double planked 1965 Trumpy,
5. I dentify a yard that will with several dinghies and tenders along the way. A hands-on
work with you and your owner who enjoys tackling mechanical, electronic, electrical,
style of communication carpentry and cosmetic projects, his relationships with
and requirements. tradesmen, craftsmen and boatyards over the years is a
mixed bag of humor, angst and patience for all.
6. Establish a rapport with
a manager or owner of
the yard early on.

7. I f the relationship
doesn’t feel the way you
want, look elsewhere
before the work begins.

8. I f you are consistently at odds
with boatyards, you may have
unrealistic expectations.

9. A sk for a detailed quote and
cost estimates and keep an eye
on charges along the way.

10. Remain flexible, plan for the
worst and have a backup plan if
you are on a deadline.

62 waterwayguide.com



Asure sign of spring (or fall) in
Chicago is the biannual boat run,
during which 27 lift bridges are
sequentially opened from S. Ashland Ave.
to Lake Shore Dr. in downtown Chicago.
The purpose of the run is to allow the
passage of recreational sailboats and large
cruising vessels from boat storage yards
to Lake Michigan.

The Chicago Department of Transportation
(CDOT) operates and maintains the
bridges and sets the biannual boat run lift
schedules. Spring boat runs are conducted
from mid-April through June for the
outbound trip to Lake Michigan, while fall
boat runs are conducted mid-September
to early November for the inbound trip
back to a storage yard. The bridges open
approximately 40 times a year from April
to November. (Vessels that do not require
an opening can set their own schedule.)
Each bridge lift takes an average of 8 to 12
minutes. The trip through downtown can
take a total of 2 to 4 hours.

64 waterwayguide.com

Our 75th Year

“This tradition started back in the 1800s, when

Chicago was a busy crossway on the water route from
Buffalo, NY, to the Mississippi River.”

2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 65

You can find bridge schedules, a tour
map and a historical overview at
www.chicagoloopbridges.com
or call 312-745-3115.

Spring boat runs begin at one of two yacht yards­–Chicago Yacht Works at Mile
321.7 (Ashland Ave.) or Canal Street Marina & Yacht Yard at Mile 323. Starting
times at the yacht yards are usually 8:00 a.m. on Saturdays and 9:30 a.m. on
Wednesdays. The largest number of boats make the trip to Lake Michigan in
May, and historically no boat run is scheduled on the Saturday of Memorial
Day weekend. Fall boat runs start at the N. Lake Shore Drive Bridge at Diversey
Harbor at 9:00 a.m. on Saturdays and 9:30 a.m. on Wednesdays.

66 waterwayguide.com

Our 75th Year

This tradition started back in the 1800s, when Chicago was
a busy crossway on the water route from Buffalo, NY to the
Mississippi River. The very first bridges that were built in
1840 started out as floating swing bridges. Next was a timber
drawbridge constructed at Dearborn St. that resembled those
traversing moats at medieval castles, complete with large lifting
chains. In the years that followed, Chicago’s bridge history
included five types of movable bridges­–floating, swing, vertical
lift, rolling lift bascule and fixed trunnion bascule. Ultimately,
it was the trunnion bascule bridge–inspired by London Bridge–
that became a Chicago staple.
The first trunnion bascule bridge opened in 1902 over the
north branch of the Chicago River at Cortland Street. Known
as a “Chicago Style” bridge, the leaves are suspended on axles
(trunnions) with massive concrete counterweights located in
a riverbank pit below the bridge. There are single-leaf bascule
bridges, often used for trains, and double-leaf bascule bridges,
which can best be described as two seesaws located across from
each other. Today there are 18 trunnion bascule bridges in a
mere 2 miles in downtown Chicago.
The biannual boat runs are an interesting and, at times, chaotic
experience. Expect a mix of tour boats, pleasure boats, kayakers
and other paddlers in the downtown area. Be forewarned that
horns will be blasting and boat engines idling during bridge lifts.
If that’s not nerve-wracking enough, the River Walk will likely
be crowded with folks watching the parade of boats. Another
great vantage point is the top of the five-story McCormick
Bridgehouse & Chicago River Museum, which offers
magnificent 360-degree views of the city. At the lowest level of
the bridgehouse, visitors can view the moving gears as they lift
the massive Michigan Avenue Bridge leaf. ß

2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 67

When you settle into a berth at

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88

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Our 75th Year

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Navigating  Then & Now
By Bob Sherer, Contributing Editor
Being on the water has always been
adventurous. And for all the reasons Then
that we love boating the one task that
has evolved more than any other in the past 25 • You had a library of paper charts
years is navigation. GPS coverage and accuracy stowed on the boat.
combined with the processing power of today’s
mobile devices and chart plotters provide a • Your routes and waypoints were plotted
level of precision and confidence heretofore on those charts.
unavailable. Contributing editor Bob Sherer
(aka Bob423) compiled a list of activities that • Parallel rulers were used with the
we exercised when we plotted courses and chart’s compass rose.
skippered our boats at the turn of the 21st
century and compared them to how we get • You had a back-sighting compass in addition
around today. Do you remember when? to an on the helm compass.

• You knew how to dead reckon because you
never knew when fog would close in, or you
could not determine your location from
celestial observations.

• There was a stopwatch on board, and you
probably had a good wristwatch.

• You could identify bell buoys (ATONs)
and estimate direction and distance
to and from them.

• You were aware of other sounds such
as water lapping against shore or the
sound of other boats, especially in fog or
reduced visibility.

• You learned how to estimate distances to
ATONs by their apparent size.

• You understood foghorn signals.

Advancements along the way

• We transferred waypoints from paper charts
to our GPS devices to make routes.

• Then chart plotters arrived and what a
revolution. You could see your boat icon
moving on the chart on the screen. Wow!

• Charts gradually were not spread out or
referenced while underway.

72 waterwayguide.com

Now Our 75th Year

The proliferation of Apple and Android navigation apps Boating should be fun and part of
with capabilities far beyond those early chart plotters. having fun is being safe. Modern tools
provide accurate tracks, timely weather
• Chart plotter functions are now available in many information, including weather radar
mobile navigation apps. via internet, electronic navigation
charts (ENC) with regular data
• There is a standard format (.GPX) for sharing updates, USACE surveys displayed for
waypoints, routes, and tracks. navigation and so much more.
There is little nostalgia for the old tools
• We get multiple chart updates per year (versus the one of navigation. They worked in their
or two updates we got with old style chart plotters. time, but today’s technologies are better
and we’re not going backwards. Where
• Weather information is integrated into many will we be in another 25 years? ß
mobile navigation apps.
2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 73
• Tides and currents are now superimposed on
digital devices, which assist in estimating time to
destinations and drift.

• Digital data from NOAA and USACE is now available
to recreational boaters and mobile apps are amazingly
robust, such as Aqua Map that displays USACE,
ATON relocations and LNMs. SonarChart from
Navionics maps bottom contours of the waterways.

• Community comments and reviews of anchorages,
marinas and local conditions are available with a finger
tap on many apps.

• AIS is inexpensive and accurate for most any vessel
owner that wants to install it offering greatly improved
visibility for all vessels.

Reflection

Are we safer now than in the past with these
new technologies?

• What if they fail and we have no GPS, a mobile device
dies, or a software update kills an app?

• Multiple backups are needed for devices and software,
which complicates the equation.

• Do we still need to learn the navigation skills of
yesteryear? Very few of us are going back to a sextant
for coastal cruising. But basic navigation skills and
situational awareness are still required. Know the
ATONs (red, right, returning), port to port on-coming
passing, and give way versus stand on vessel positions.

74 waterwayguide.com

Our 75th Year

2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 75





A Chesapeake Bay Loop:

By Ed Tillett, Editor-in-Chief  Rock Hall

 ur friends and families have been Annapolis 

doing Chesapeake Bay loops forever,  St. Michaels
but we didn’t call them that. We had  Oxford
five or six destinations in mind and
took off, knowing that eventually we would make it Solomons  The Chesapeake Bay
back or leave the boat and return as our schedules
permitted for the trip home. With the popularity  Onancock
of loops (America’s Great Loop, the Triangle Loop,
Florida Loop, and more) we’re sharing a proven Deltaville 
Chesapeake Bay itinerary that most anyone can
embark upon with a sound vessel, charts, basic  Cape
navigation skills and a cruising guide. Charles

But be forewarned. If on a sailboat, or even a  Norfolk
comfortable trawler or heavy cruising boat, this
Chesapeake Bay loop will put you at odds with
some type of weather system about every five or
six days. It’s big water out there. In the summer
the prospect of making way in one direction or the
other is a bit less troublesome, but there should
always be some meteorological considerations
in your planning. Cold fronts, thunderstorms
and afternoon sea breezes abound year round,
which means you may not be able to always go the
direction you want, when you want.

The good news is that you can dodge, skip, hunker
down and gunkhole your way to adventure and
comfort if you pay attention to weather and tide
and plan accordingly. If you are not on a schedule,
then you certainly can choose a nice route up one
side of the Bay and down the other as weather and
wind align with your comfort zone. Or you can zig
zag your way up or down as conditions impact your
direction of travel, which makes your travel less
of a loop and more of a meander, but still makes
for a great trip.

78 waterwayguide.com

Our 75th Year

South to North & Back

The recommended Chesapeake Bay loop that we’ve taken over the
years starts and ends in the same place. You, of course, can start
anywhere and make the loop your own. And add other locations as
you wish. This is a trip that will keep you on the move and exploring
throughout the peak boating season, which runs from mid-May to
mid-October, give or take a couple of weeks on each end. And the
stops are all recommended based on our experiences.
If you have all the time in the world, this is a three- to four-week
itinerary on your own boat. You can also charter in many of these
locations if you want to explore locally. If you have a lifetime to
explore you can sail and cruise the Chesapeake Bay and never
anchor or stay in the same place twice. There are countless coves
and creeks and anchorages in the 11,500+ miles of shoreline.
But for a manageable and comfortable adventure consider
the following routes. Timings are based on an average speed
of 6 knots, so the number of hours and days will vary
based on your vessel’s speed. If you’re moving fast you
can pass up some of the stops and complete the trip with
fewer destinations.

“ If you have a lifetime to explore, you can sail
and cruise the Chesapeake Bay and never
anchor or stay in the same place twice.”

2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 79

Deltaville 

Norfolk to Deltaville, VA – 50 Miles

Starting somewhere in the Elizabeth River
at Mile Zero of the Atlantic Intracoastal
Waterway, you can make Deltaville in a few
hours or take all day, depending on boat
speed. When the days are longer in late spring,
summer and early fall, this is an easy trip.
If you are not in a hurry, or get a late start,
you can duck into Mobjack Bay and choose
any number of anchorages or a few small
marinas up the creeks and then complete the

trip to Deltaville when you’re
ready. Once past New Point
Comfort there are few options
for coming ashore until you
get to Deltaville, where you
can find a marina or
anchor in several nice
locations on either
side of the peninsula.
Deltaville is a small
town with several
restaurants, a nice
museum and plenty
of service facilities and
supplies. Be prepared to
ask for transportation
from the marina if you
need provisions or want to
dine out. Walking is not
easy from the waterfronts
on either side of town.
But chances are you
will find someone to
give you a ride. It’s
that kind of town.

The Lone Sailor Statue, Norfolk  Norfolk
80 waterwayguide.com

Deltaville, VA to Solomons, MD – 56 or 62 Miles Our 75th Year

Depending on which side of Deltaville you stay will affect how many miles 
and hours to Solomons, MD. Either way, this is another day’s journey at Solomons
5-6 knots. If you have time or need to duck in, the Great Wicomico River
offers options for exploring and anchoring or docking in Reedville, VA.
After you transit the mouth of the Potomac River, you may see U.S. Navy
patrol boats in the water as you approach the Patuxent River. Monitor your
radio on VHF Channel 16 closely. There is a restricted area that serves
as a practice run for jets on mock bombing missions along this stretch of
coastline off Naval Air Station Patuxent River. You will see the target in the
water, and it’s on your charts. If an exercise is scheduled or in progress, you
will be asked to move east away from the restricted area and continue your
southbound or northbound transit. You are usually directed to go east of
buoy “72A,” which is 6 miles from the shoreline of the naval facility. Most
vessels don’t travel that far away from the western shoreline as they move
north and south, so be prepared to alter course east if requested. As you
head north and pass “72B” you can start a slow turn NW and begin your
approach to Cedar Point, which marks the southern end of the mouth of
the Patuxent River. By then you are clearing the restricted area. There are
two routes into Solomons, one close to the northern shore and the other
in the middle of the river. I prefer to choose the route in the middle, avoid
the shoal to starboard and look for “R2.” It’s a little confusing as you get
close to town with boats and masts in front of you, but just follow the
markers and you will clear a little round island, keeping it to port as you
go straight toward Back Creek for marinas and an anchorage. Or you may
choose to turn hard right for Mill Creek and a find nice spot to anchor.
To the left of the little island are a few marinas and another anchorage.
Go slow. Look at your chart and you will figure it out. Solomons is well
protected and has plenty of facilities, restaurants and museums to keep
your visit interesting. Anchor out or take a slip. It’s a great town.

 Deltaville

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 Annapolis Solomons to Annapolis, MD – 50 Miles

Another day’s trip north up the western shore of the Bay gets
you to Annapolis. You will cross the mouth of the Potomac River
on this leg. Wind and tide can be your friend or can challenge
you. Wind against tide will build swells and chop. Move farther
out into the Bay and the effects of currents and eddies from the
Potomac will usually be less. Time your passage around slack tide
and high pressure overhead for an easy, flatwater transit across
the Potomac. The mooring field in Annapolis harbor is first come,
first served, but there is a fee and payment is made easily over the
phone. There are plenty of marinas, but always call ahead. Home
of the U.S. Naval Academy and the capital of Maryland, complete
with a beautiful capitol dome, the city is a favorite for all boaters.
Spend a few days or a few weeks. The city stretches uphill from the
harbor, and everything is within walking distance of most marinas
on Spa Creek and the south side of Back Creek, which is the
neighborhood of Eastport. A water taxi service operates beginning
in May of the year and can get you either off your boat if on a
mooring or anchored or pick you up from regular stops at marinas.
Remember that the United States Powerboat and Sailboat
Shows are the first two weeks in October each year. Dockage is
at a premium then, but it’s a good time to visit if you want the
experience of thousands of enthusiasts, hundreds of boats and all
things nautical from the numerous exhibitors.

Drum Point Light, Solomons


Solomons

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Main Street Annapolis

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 Rock Hall


Annapolis

Annapolis to Rock Hall, MD – 15 Miles

Crossing the Bay from west to east, you’re now
on the Eastern Shore, also called the Delmarva
Peninsula (made up of Delaware, Maryland
and Virginia). The short trip to Rock Hall puts
you in a nice little community away from the
hustle of Annapolis. Anchorages and marinas
are plentiful. And maybe it’s time to come off
the boat and spend a night or two in a B&B.
There are several to choose from, as there are in
almost all of the stops along this loop.

Entrance marker to
Rock Hall Harbor
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Rock Hall to St. Michaels, MD – 35 Miles or 20 Miles Our 75th Year

The route you select will determine distance traveled on this stretch. You  Rock Hall
can go either south through Kent Narrows or around Kent Island. If you
go through Kent Narrows, currents and mast height are considerations
as is a restricted bridge. The current can run up to 1.5 knots through the
Narrows, so be ready to manage your throttle and gears while waiting
on the bridge to open if you choose that direction. Confirm the bridge
schedule for openings and remember that vessels traveling with the
current have right of way and should transit the opening first. The route
outside and around Kent Island puts you in open water and on a circuitous
route into the Miles River. St. Michaels is one of the best towns on
Chesapeake Bay due to its protected location, the highly rated Chesapeake
Bay Maritime Museum (CBMM) and local restaurants and shops. Watch
the markers and navigate accordingly as there are some turns and markers
that you don’t want to miss in the Miles River. Everything in town is easy
walking distance from the marinas and docks. Call ahead for reservations
during peak season. And check the calendar at the CBMM for its festivals
and programs so you can time your visit accordingly.

Kent Narrows

St. MichSat.eMls ichaels

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St. Michaels to Oxford, MD – 36 Miles

As you head south down the Bay you will turn E and then N into the Tred
Avon River, then E again into Town Creek for a visit to Oxford, a wonderful
little waterfront town with history, plenty of marinas to put you up for
the night and several B&Bs if you want to get off the boat. There are also
plenty of places to drop the hook for the night. There are a few restaurants,
a museum and a small market in town. If you don’t have a bicycle aboard
your boat, call ahead to find out which marina is closest to where you may
want to go. The stop in Oxford will not save you much time or distance
because it’s 95 miles from St. Michaels directly to Onancock and 80+ miles
from Oxford. But Oxford is a good stopover after departing St. Michaels if
your weather window is small, or you simply want to explore and take your
time to the next destination.

St. Michaels 

 Oxford

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St. Michaels, MD

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 Oxford Oxford, MD to Onancock, VA – 88 miles
Hooper’s Strait via Hooper’s Strait / 81 miles via the Bay’s
Center Channel

On this leg the size of the Chesapeake Bay
becomes evident as you will soon see that you
are a long way from anywhere with few places
to stop for fuel or provisions. The eastern side of
the Bay along this stretch is sparsely populated,
wide open and shallow in many areas, even long
distances from shore. Tangier and Pocomoke
Sounds to the east are large bodies of water.
Chesapeake Bay is 26 nm wide here and a wind
fetch from any direction can contribute to your
discomfort if it’s blowing above 15 knots. Big
sailboats, of course, will find such conditions
perfect unless they have to beat into a wind from
SE through SW. This is a long leg, so an overnight
anchorage at Hoopersville is recommended for
slow boats, which will make the completion of
your trip a 45-mile run. Or you can tuck into
Slaughter’s Creek Marina on Taylor’s Island for
a 60-mile run. Tangier and Smith Islands are
also options, as is Crisfield, MD, and farther up
the river to Pocomoke City, but facilities, access
and amenities are sparse at these locations.
Do your research and determine whether you
want to add these locations to your itinerary.
We’ve stayed at them all and while they can be
charming options, they do not make our list of
top destinations for dining or provisions. But any
port will do in a storm.

Onancock


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Navigation Note: As you chart your Hooper’s
course, you will see that it’s possible to Island
go east through Hooper Strait between
Bishops Head and Bloodsworth Island
and run south behind Smith Island and
Tangier Island. The trip will be about
10 miles longer this way, but it may
be more sheltered from any wind NE
through SE. There’s plenty of water in the
channels. The names of locations are best
found in NOAA charts, as many of the
mobile navigation apps do not have these
details. Crab pot floats dot the bay and
rivers and creeks. Learn how to dodge
them. They are not normally placed in
marked channels but as you get towards
anchorages and in shallow water, they
become quite obvious.

Onancock

Once you get to Onancock you can breathe a long sigh of relief. It’s a well-protected run 6 miles up
the creek to town. Be sure to mind the markers and depth gauge if you draw over 4 feet. The town is
delightful, with plenty of little restaurants and shops to keep you entertained for a few days. All are
within walking distance of the waterfront.

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Onancock to Cape Charles, VA 
– 42 miles Onancock

Heading south to Cape Charles Cape Charles
is another stretch with little in
the way of options for stopping or
provisioning. But the short hop is an
easy trip, and you are in the lee of the
Eastern Shore if the wind is coming
from NE through SE. Elevation of
the shore is low but provides some
relief close in. The Bay is wide here,
so mind the weather and strong
winds from N, W and through S.
Sailors may want to move toward the
middle of the Bay and use the winds
to their advantage. Once abeam of
Cape Charles when southbound, you
will need to continue south 2 more
miles before turning NE and then
back N in order to get across the
reef, past the breakwater structures
and into the channel. There are
range markers to keep you aligned
for both channels. Whether you’re
going into the Cape Charles Town
Harbor or to the north of town and
turning east into King’s Creek to
the marina there, remain between
the daymarkers. King’s Creek is a
bit shallow in places so contact the
marina for guidance. Cape Charles
is a new favorite destination on the
lower Bay for its breweries, pubs,
shops, restaurants and a wide bay
beach with nice sunsets not easily
seen on the east coast. You can spend
a week here exploring, visiting other
boaters and just relaxing.

 Cape
C harles

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Cape Charles

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Cape Charles 

Norfolk

 Norfolk

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USS Wisconsin, Norfolk

Cape Charles to Norfolk, VA – 30 Miles

Crossing back across the Bay to home port is an easy
transit but pick your weather window carefully.
You are at the mouth of the Chesapeake; it’s wide
here and when you get to Hampton Roads harbor,
there may be 2 knots of ebb tide coming out of the
James River, an inbound freighter making 6 knots
and slowing, and a submarine or carrier with escorts
leaving the naval base. Pay attention and be prepared.
We’ve been rolled by a cargo ship’s 5-foot wake and
hailed by U.S. Naval Security for getting too close to
a military vessel. But once inside the Elizabeth River
or up the James River, you have plenty of options for
anchorages, marinas and places to visit in Hampton,
Suffolk, Norfolk, Portsmouth and Chesapeake, all of
which have waterfront access and accommodations
for vessels of all sizes and shapes.

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Weather Considerations on the Bay

Like all large bodies of water, Chesapeake Bay can
beat you up. Considered shallow at 21 feet on average,
the Bay’s character can change in a matter of minutes.
Summer thunderstorms and passing cold fronts any
time of year will whip up a frenzy of chop, swells and
waves that–in all but the largest of vessels–can make
you wish you were at the dock. Weather changes occur
primarily west to east in the northern hemisphere and
as the systems move through, or lift up or down across
the region, winds shift directions, increase or subside.
Watching these movements and systems is important when boating on Chesapeake Bay. For
my comfort, I plan powerboat trips with high pressure on top of me. For sailboats, I can be a
little riskier and use the passing fronts and tight gradients of wind differences to put a “bone
in her teeth” and fill out the sails.

The important factor is timing and awareness of winds speeds and direction. We recommend
listening to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s (NOAA) marine
forecasts and assessing their various other products to arrive at a decision of when to get
underway. With today’s numerous weather reporting services and mobile applications, it is
fairly easy to arrive at good information to prevent your time on the water from becoming
uncomfortable or unsafe. But keep your eyes on the sky and your VHF radio on in the
event of rapidly changing conditions. Finally, be aware that afternoons on Chesapeake Bay
can become breezy in the warmer months due to sea breeze effects. For sailors it’s often a
welcome relief. For small boats, though, the increased wind speeds can create chop and swells
that may not be as refreshing.

Provisioning and Supplies

Preparing meals on the boat while at the dock or anchored is one of
the joys of being aboard. But you need not overload the vessel’s larders
when you begin this loop. Every one of the destinations listed above has
easy access to groceries, Farmers’ Markets (in season), marine supplies
and places to dine out. Fuel, standard filters, lubricants and other
marine needs are either available at local stockrooms or can be ordered
online and delivered to marinas. Any specialized parts and spares for
engines, rigging and mechanicals on the boat should be taken with you,
as well as a good tool kit and extra rope, fenders and dock lines. Even with
reservations at marinas and docking facilities, you may end up in a slip or laid up on
pilings that do not quite match your boat’s length or cleat placements. And tide and
wind may impact your docking configuration. Being prepared with plenty of lines
and chafe protection reduces stress and potential scrapes and rubs on your boat.

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Pets, Guests and Insurance

Most marinas today are pet friendly. Take a leash and a harness
for your dog and abide by the rules. Cats are easy if they’re
accustomed to being aboard. Guests can always join you at most
any stop, and most marinas will accommodate their vehicles,
although it’s good to alert the dockmaster of your plans. Parking
is at a premium in some of these locations and permission to
leave guests’ cars is a good idea, especially where marinas are
conducting operations with moving and blocking boats. Finally,
be aware that in today’s environment marinas are more inclined
to ask for proof of insurance on your vessel when you check
in, whether for one night or longer. And the type of insurance
is important as well. A simple liability policy does not always
suffice. If you are not carrying hull insurance (or any insurance), the time to find out is not after
making a long day’s journey only to be refused docking space with nowhere to go. Have a copy
of your current declaration page with you and be prepared to show it if asked. If you don’t have
one at least tell the marina before arriving that you do not have a declaration page with you.
This should prompt some sort of response that will alert you to their requirements.

Communications and Navigation

Cell phones, iPads, tablets and VHF radios should be at your fingertips.
Most of Chesapeake Bay is covered by cell service. But there are dark spots
in the middle of the widest areas and in remote locations. VHF radio(s)
are still a “must have” on board and you should have a working knowledge
of basic operations. Leave it on when underway and turn up the volume
and squelch it so you don’t have to listen to static. In all of the locations on
this itinerary and in between, you will hear U.S. Coast Guard messages that
may be important. Plus you can hear NOAA Marine weather forecasts on the
appropriate channels. And other vessels nearby may try to communicate with your vessel on any number of
topics. If you have only one radio, tune it to VHF Channel 16 and leave it there. If you have two radios, tune
one to VHF Channel 16 and the other to VHF Channel 13, which is what tugboats and other big boats often
use to talk with each other in the Bay. Keep in mind that VHF Channel 16 is not for conversation between
vessels. It is used to hail other vessels and then to offer another channel to carry on a conversation, such as
VHF Channel 68 or 72 or other options. Follow the rules. If in doubt about another vessel’s intentions or if
you need assistance, use VHF Channel 16 to start the dialogue. Be prepared that some boats will not listen or
respond. But do your part. Know the rules of the road, give other vessels a wide berth and stay alert.

We’ve done the planning for you, so get out there, do the Chesapeake Bay loop and take Waterway Guide
with you. Our cruising guidebooks, online subscription service and mobile app will keep you informed and
up to date. Download the Aqua Map mobile navigation app for charts, destinations and additional access
to Waterway Guide points of interest and data. With these resources and some advance planning, you will
be fully equipped to get where you’re going. Here’s hoping we see you on Chesapeake Bay, one of the world’s
greatest cruising destinations. ß

2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 95

Nearby & On-Site Attractions: COMPLETE MARINE FACILITIES

• Historic City of Cape May Located in Cape May Harbor on the south side of the Cape May Canal,
• MAC for the Arts we are a 300 slip, family owned & operated marina. Since 1951, an Utsch
• Cape May Point Lighthouse family member is always on hand to greet you. Ernie III or Charles and
• Charter Boat Fleet staff will do their best to make your stay a memorable experience.
• On-site Chapel: Non-denominational
Christian Services every Sunday WE MONITOR CHANNEL 16 VHF
• East Coast Parasailing–Jet Boat–Jet Discounts Available for Volume Fuel Purchases
Skis
• Harbor Boat Rides UTSCH’S MARINA
• Adjacent to Lobster House
Restaurant SHIP’S STORE–BAIT & TACKLE SHOP
•Bait & Tackle Shop BROKERAGE–STORAGE–SERVICE & REPAIRS
•Ship’s Store
•Transient & Seasonal Slips (609) 884-2051
• Deluxe Showers, Restrooms &
Lounges www.capemayharbor.com
• Laundry Facilities [email protected]
• Wireless Internet Access
• Picnic tables & Gazebos LOCATED BETWEEN CANAL AND SCHELLENGER’S LANDING
• Bike Rentals
• 25 & 55 ton open end Travel lifts
• Engine Franchises:



“...the watery highway

of the ICW weaves
through The Sea Islands
of Lady’s Island and
Port Royal, allowing
a closer look at these
delightful Lowcountry
communities. But be
forewarned: many
cruisers who come for a
brief visit never leave...”

The Captivating

Sea Islands

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