Waterway Explorer Magazine 2022

Our 75th Year

 s you travel south on the ICW,

moss-draped live oaks, native
cabbage palmetto trees and graceful
magnolias are the first signs you have
arrived in the coastal South Carolina Lowcountry.
The Lowcountry (also known as the Low Country) is
identified as much by its character as a precise spot on the
map with a culture, architecture, economy and even cuisine
of its own. The unique climate, landscape, and slow, Southern
pace of life adds to the appeal.
Hundreds of islands are dotted among the rivers, bays and sounds
flowing between the ICW and the Atlantic Ocean. Known as The Sea
Islands, these communities are often separated from each other and the
mainland by less than a mile of creek or marsh. Lucky for us, the watery
highway of the ICW weaves through The Sea Islands of Lady’s Island and
Port Royal, allowing a closer look at these delightful Lowcountry communities.
But be forewarned: many cruisers who come for a brief visit never leave,
becoming a part of the salty ambience.

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Lady’s Island

Lady’s Island is a predominantly residential area located across the Beaufort River from
downtown Beaufort. Small portions of the island are within the City of Beaufort, while
most of the island remains unincorporated. The rich land on Lady’s Island was once home
to majestic indigo plantations. Today it is mostly shrimping and fishing that sustain the
island residents. And while parts of this seaside hamlet remain rural, development is quickly
transforming the landscape. Historic downtown Beaufort is 1 mile away, a scenic 15-minute
walk (or take a courtesy bike from the marina) across the Lady’s Island Bridge, which, by the
way, offers some of the best views in the area.

The ICW leaves the Coosaw River at Mile 529, where you will find a well-marked entrance
range heading into Brickyard Creek and Lady’s Island. At Mile 533 a marked channel leads
into the well-regarded Marsh Harbor Boat Works on Lady’s Island. Marsh Harbor is a small
but efficient boat yard specializing in repair and painting. To port (south) just above the
Lady’s Island Bridge on Factory Creek is Lady’s Island Marina. The marina has transient space
at floating docks with all the usual amenities plus an on-site yoga studio, canvas shop, massage
therapist and a great restaurant, Lady’s Island Dockside.

 

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Side Trip: Dataw Island

Dataw Island is a delightful side
trip on the way to Beaufort.
Once a prosperous sea island
cotton plantation, Dataw Island
is now a gated community
with over 1100 and a first-class
marina. Off the beaten path but
convenient to Beaufort, Dataw
offers the perfect blend of history
and modern amenities that may
entice you to stay for a while.
Rather than following the ICW
south at Mile 529, continue
eastward on the main Coosaw
River. After about 5 miles, turn
south into Parrot Creek and
round the south side of Coosaw
Island on the Morgan River to
reach Dataw Island Marina.
This well-appointed facility is
located inside a gated golf and
tennis community also featuring
pickleball, croquet and bocce
(available to transient boaters
with advance coordination). The
marina offers wet slips, transient
dockage, dock and dine and
dry stack storage.

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“Beaufort is pronounced Beaufort

“Bew’-fort” not “Boe’- Beaufort is located on Port Royal Island, one of the
fort” as when referring largest Sea Islands. Because of the deep, safe harbor,
to Beaufort, NC. If you Beaufort and her sister city, Port Royal, were two of
are new to cruising the the first mid-1500s European settlements in what
ICW in the Carolinas, would become the Colony of South Carolina.
do take an extra moment
to get the pronunciation The beautiful moss-draped roads and antebellum
of the two straight or architecture of Beaufort haven’t changed much over
you can just wait to be the years. Homes here are typically West Indies-style
corrected by the locals.” in a T-shaped floor plan with a raised first floor, high
ceilings and double porches designed to catch the
breeze off the river. Speaking of the river, be sure to
snag a front row seat for the parade of boats traversing
the ICW at the Henry C. Chambers Waterfront Park.
This is especially nice in the early morning or late
afternoon. Restaurants, inns and charming shops open
to the waterfront and the historic business district.

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If Beaufort is your destination, continue heading south along Brickyard Creek to the
Lady’s Island (Woods Memorial) Bridge at Mile 536 (closed vertical clearance of 30 feet).
(The official bridge name is Richard V. Woods Memorial Bridge.) The bascule bridge has
a fairly complicated schedule that changes depending on the time of year. Check online
at Waterway Explorer (www.waterwayguide.com) for the most up-to-date schedule. The
Beaufort River leads to Safe Harbor Beaufort, which overlooks the Henry C. Chambers
Waterfront Park. The marina offers ample dockage and some marine services. Currents are
very strong here with 7- to 9-foot tides so use considerable caution in docking. Call ahead to
the marina for dockage availability and assistance. A large portion of the anchorage area has
been converted to a mooring field that is managed by Safe Harbor. There are 30 moorings.
The fee includes the use of showers and the dinghy dock.

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Smaller boats may tie up along the seawall at the access floating face dock with gas and diesel fuel,
Waterfront Park, which is also managed by Safe a fully stocked Ship Store and a courtesy car. Be
Harbor Beaufort. These docks are only useful for sure to phone ahead for reservations or hail the
short tie-ups during periods of high or slack tide marina on VHF Channel 16 before you approach
due to the strong currents, large tidal range (7 to check for dockage availability and directions
feet) and plethora of oyster shells on the seawall. to a berth on its floating docks. It is less than a
The Beaufort Day Dock (a 140-foot-long floating one-mile drive from the marina to a supermarket,
dock south of the marina) is owned by the city liquor store, drug store, ATM and West Marine.
and does not allow overnight docking. Depths
at the courtesy dock are 8 feet at the west end
and 5 feet at the east end. Dock dinghies on the
inside of this dock.

Port Royal

Just 6 miles south of downtown Beaufort is the
less developed waterfront of Port Royal. Spanish,
French and British explorers all attempted to
colonize the isolated seaside province because of
its deep, protected harbor. Nowadays the main
draw is the natural environment, highlighted by a
network of walking trails, a community beach, a
marsh-front boardwalk and an observation tower
overlooking Battery Creek.

Three miles south of downtown Beaufort
immediately north of the high-level McTeer
Memorial Twin Bridges at Mile 539 is Safe
Harbor Port Royal with full amenities, an easy-

The Beaufort River runs broad and deep, and its
well-marked main channel is easy to follow past
Parris Island (the Marine Corps Recruit Depot)
to the Port Royal Sound Entrance. There is much
to see ashore as the river arcs along between
Parris Island and St. Helena Island, one of the
unincorporated Sea Island regions of northern
Beaufort County. ß

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Sound Advice
By Ken & Pat Chattell

After many warm Bahamian winters aboard, we
decided to spend last summer exploring Long
Island Sound board Geneva, our Island Packet
40. It did not take long to discover why the Sound, with
its abundance of destinations, is one of the country’s
favored cruising areas. It would take many years of
gunkholing to see it all. From Manhasset Bay to Cold
Spring Harbor, the many friendly cruisers we met only
enhanced the Sound’s beauty.

(Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in
the premiere issue of Waterway Guide Magazine
in 2006. Our point? While populations grow
and businesses come and go, not much changes on
the water. We have updated and omitted where
necessary, but we think you will find the areas below
to be mostly as described 16 years ago.)

Bay Walk, Port Washington
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Manhasset Bay Washington offers mobile pump-out service
(hail on VHF Channel 9) for a very nominal
We first anchored in New York’s Manhasset fee, a recognition by the various levels of
Bay, just outside the mooring field in front of government that the Sound is sensitive and
Brewer Capri Marina East (now Safe Harbor needs protection.
Capri). While the bay has a number of large
mooring fields, there is still plenty of room to Port Washington’s Main Street provides a
anchor with excellent holding in 7 to 17 feet of snapshot of the idyllic small village lifestyle.
water with very good protection from almost Among the beautiful trees and convenient
all directions. Most mooring fields here are benches you can find boutiques, art galleries,
private, but there is usually room for transients antiques stores, jewelry stores, an excellent
and the yacht clubs generally offer reciprocal library, banks, restaurants of every type and
courtesies to members of other clubs. We a hardware store. And for those who wish
enjoyed our morning coffees with an excellent to continue their travel by land, trains run
view of the sunrise, watching yachts of every frequently to New York City.
size and type starting their days.
Adjacent to the town dock is the Philip Sousa
Port Washington, the largest town on bandstand. Concerts are a weekly event
Manhasset Bay, recognizes the value of the here, and we enjoyed one from the boat as
boating community. At the town dock we the music wafted across the bay. Where else
were able to use pump-out facilities, get water could you enjoy the setting sun and a wee glass
and secure our dinghy for visits ashore. As of local wine, all with the accompaniment
do many towns on Long Island Sound, Port of wonderful music?

Port Washington

2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 107

Oyster Bay Harbor Because of the large weekend boating crowds
arriving for the Fourth of July, we anchored in a
We left the next morning for a short trip to Oyster large, sheltered cove with good holding between
Bay Harbor, which offers fine beaches, well- the town and the high bluffs of Cove Neck. To
groomed estates, a prosperous oyster fleet and a our great enjoyment, an extensive marsh at the
choice of protected anchorages. Notably, Oyster head of the cove featured an abundance of bird
Bay served during the early 1900s as the summer life. Our own early arrival that weekend allowed
White House for President Theodore Roosevelt. us to get settled here before the throngs cruised
in to watch the spectacular evening fireworks
As Oyster Bay is a very popular destination and display at Cove Point.
space is at a premium, it is essential to contact
Oyster Bay Marine Center well in advance if you From Oyster Bay Marine Center, a five-minute
wish to have either a slip or mooring ball available. walk through a park-like setting brings you to the
They also provide launch service. town’s refined blend of commercial services and

Oyster Bay Harbor

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Theodore Roosevelt summer home

beautiful residences. This mélange, along with the Some of the more interesting tour tidbits: While
effort to preserve the better examples of the past, in residence, Roosevelt regularly commuted
gives Oyster Bay its special charm. to New York by train, and it wasn’t until 1901,
when he became president, that a telephone was
Raynham Hall, in the center of town, is one installed. Prior to that, messages were delivered to
example of the town’s preservation efforts. Built in Sagamore hill by bicycle from the local drugstore.
1740, it served as as a British headquarters during Roosevelt died in his bed at Sagamore Hill–as he
the Revolutionary War. Previously it was the home had many times predicted he would–at age 60,
of Robert Townsend, Gen. George Washington’s and his final resting place lies in a small cemetery
famous spy. Now a museum, Raynham Hall is open located on the property.
Tuesday through Sunday from 1:00 p.m. to 5:00
p.m. (516-922-6808). Providing the perfect ending to our day of
sightseeing, our evening was capped by a
The Theodore Roosevelt summer home is located spectacular 30-minute extravaganza of fireworks
atop Sagamore Hill at Cove Neck, a 3-mile walk over the harbor. Almost as spectacular was
from the village. Built in 1885, it is now preserved the orderly procession of more than 600
as a National Historic Monument. The home, boats somehow leaving the scene without
displaying memorabilia from Roosevelt’s legendary serious incident.
life, is open for tours by advance reservation only
(877-444-6777). The grounds are open to the public
daily, year-round.

2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 109

Cold Spring Harbor

The following day we took the short trip around the corner to Cold
Spring Harbor. The narrowness of the harbor and its steep, wooded bluffs
reminded us of a small fjord. Those wishing to anchor will have to do so
north of Cold Spring Beach, as the inner harbor is full of mooring balls.
Call Powles Marina for information about the availability of a mooring;
launch service is provided. We walked about a half mile into the town
of Cold Springs Harbor, named by settlers in 1653 for the harbor’s icy
freshwater springs.
From 1836 to 1860, this area became one of Long Island’s most active
whaling ports, and later, a busy fishing village. Main Street is home to the
Whaling Museum, a tribute to Long Island’s maritime history. It is nestled
among beautifully kept 18th- and 19th-century homes. Permanent exhibits
include a scrimshaw collection, a fully equipped whale boat, ship models,
whaling implements, figureheads and a diorama showing Cold Springs Harbor during the whaling days. The
museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (631-367-3418).
For a walk back in time, stroll along Main Street and enjoy the historic homes, boutiques and antiques shops.
When it’s time to leave and you need to reprovision, several grocery stores are a few miles from the marina
near the highway and Cold Spring Plaza Delicatessen (15 Harbor Rd.) can satisfy almost every need. ß

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Try These Ports on a By John N. Felsher
Gulf of Mexico Cruise 2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 111

W hen cruising the western
Gulf of Mexico, drop into
 these locations and try
fishing. You might land some delicious
seafood for supper.

Bay St. Louis, MS

Bay St. Louis near the town of Pass
Christian, Miss. covers about 27 square
miles. Several feeder streams create
marshy deltas in the bay. The pass itself
opens into Mississippi Sound, an arm
of the Gulf of Mexico.

“Bay St. Louis and the harbor are
both extremely easy to enter and exit,”
explained Sonny Schindler with Shore
Thing Fishing Charters (228-342-
2206, www.shorethingcharters.com).
“The harbor is protected and people
don’t need to travel far to catch fish.
Someone in a big boat can catch several
species near the bridges crossing the
bay entrance. The harbor sits next to
several bars, restaurants and hotels.
The Blind Tiger restaurant will cook
your catch for you.”

U.S Highway 90 and a train Lake Pontchartrain, LA Many people troll parallel
trestle cross the pass at the bay to the bridges or cast to the
entrance. For the easiest fishing, Heading west from Mississippi, pilings for trout. Kenny
drop a shrimp down next to enter Lake Borgne near the Kreeger of Lake Pontchartrain
the pilings for sheepshead. The Louisiana-Mississippi line. Really Charters (985-643-2944,
catch might also include spotted a bay of the Gulf of Mexico, www.lakepontchartraincharters.
seatrout (locally called speckled Lake Borgne connects to Lake com) caught a speck weighing
trout), redfish and flounder. Pontchartrain through two deep, 11.99 pounds. In the fall,
wide natural passes, the Rigolets bull redfish come into Lake
Anglers can also fish several and Chef Menteur, between Pontchartrain from Lake Borgne
barrier islands. Cat Island sits Slidell and New Orleans. through the passes.
about 12 miles southeast of the
bay. Want to stretch your legs? Roughly 41 miles long by 24 The state also established
Try wading the beaches while miles wide, Lake Pontchartrain several artificial reefs in the
casting for trout and other covers about 628 square miles and lake to attract fish. Near
species, especially in the summer. averages 10 to 14 feet deep. Some where the Rigolets enters Lake
In addition, the state established dredge holes drop deeper. Several Pontchartrain, a hospital once
numerous artificial reefs along bridges and an old railroad trestle served soldiers assigned to Fort
the coast to attract fish. cross the brackish lake including Pike, a masonry fort dating
the Pontchartrain Causeway. to 1826. Little remains of the
For reef locations see At 24 miles, the longest bridge old hospital except submerged
dmr.ms.gov/artificial-reef. in the world continuously over rocks and other debris, but
For local information, see water, the Causeway crosses the reef holds fish.
www.gulfcoast.org. Lake Pontchartrain from
north to south, connecting Boaters can find harbors and
Mandeville to New Orleans. accommodations in Slidell and
Mandeville on the northern
shore of the massive lake.
For area information, see
www.LouisianaNorthshore.com.

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Calcasieu Estuary, LA In the past, the estuary produced Large boats cannot fish the marshes,
several double-digit trout but they can fish anywhere in
In southwestern Louisiana, the and numerous fish in the 4- the channel. Several cuts connect
40-mile-long Calcasieu Ship to 8-pound range. Big Lake to the ship channel.
Channel flows through the Twin mile-long rock jetties mark
Calcasieu Estuary, connecting The surrounding marshes Calcasieu Pass. Anglers can fish the
the Port of Lake Charles to produce good redfish and jetties in large boats and possibly
the Gulf. Along the way, it flounder action, especially the catch bull redfish, giant black
passes through Calcasieu marshes of the Sabine National drum, trout, Spanish mackerel,
Lake and several smaller lakes Wildlife Refuge. The refuge sheepshead and other fish.
surrounded by marshland. covers 125,000 acres between
Calcasieu Lake and Sabine Lake While in the southern part of the
Known locally as Big Lake, on the Louisiana-Texas line. On estuary, watch for Pinky, the famed
Calcasieu Lake measures 12 the eastern side of the estuary, pink dolphin. Pinky likes to play in
miles long by nine miles wide Cameron Prairie NWR and the the bow waves created by large ships
and covers about 52,700 acres East Cove Unit conserve more navigating the channel.
at the southern end of the rich marshes. Boaters could
estuary. Full of oyster reefs, Big venture up the ship channel Boaters can find accommodations
Lake averages less than six feet or run the Gulf Intracoastal in Lake Charles. Boaters can even
deep, but it earned a reputation Waterway to Sabine Lake, dock at some casino resorts. For
for producing outstanding another excellent fishing lake. area information, see
speckled trout catches. www.visitlakecharles.org.

2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 113

Galveston Bay, TX the San Jacinto Battleground State Gulf. These structures hold redfish,
Historic Site where the Republic sheepshead and black drum all year
About 30 miles long and 17 of Texas won its independence long. From spring through early
miles wide, Galveston Bay from Mexico in 1836. fall, anglers might catch flounder,
covers 345,280 acres. The bay speckled trout and other fish. Try
averages about six feet deep. The largest estuary in Texas and fishing the North Jetty Boat Cut.
Although much of the bay the seventh largest in the United For large redfish or drum, use crab
remains shallow, the Houston States provides abundant places halves. In the summer, many people
Ship Channel runs 50 miles to fish for various species. Two crab off the rocks.
from the Gulf to the Port stacked granite jetties at the
of Houston. Cruisers on the entrance to Galveston Bay offer Visitors can find marina facilities in
channel might pass the excellent fishing. Some of the Galveston at www.waterwayguide.com.
U.S.S. Texas, a veteran of both oldest and longest jetties in the For area information see
world wars and the oldest United States, they date to 1874 www.galveston.com.
battleship afloat. It’s docked at and extend 6.5 miles into the

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Matagorda Bay, TX trout and release big fish just 2.5 pounds and make delicious
about every day. The system eating when prepared fresh.
Down the coast, the third does produce some 10- to Anglers might also catch black
largest estuary in Texas behind 11-pound trout. Anyone could drum, sheepshead, tripletail
Galveston Bay and Laguna catch a really big trout any day and other species. Offshore,
Madre, Matagorda Bay averages on Matagorda Bay.” people can catch red snapper,
about six feet deep and covers king mackerel, amberjack and
more than 1,090 square miles Many people wade the beaches other fish in season.
of the Colorado River Delta. to fish. The area also produces
The system produces some good redfish and flounder People can find marina facilities in
giant speckled trout. action. Some people walk Port O’Connor and Port Lavaca at
the shallows at night gigging www.waterwayguide.com. A dredged
“It’s pretty amazing what this flounder. The area also holds pass near Port O’Connor marked by
fishery will hold,” said Bink abundant white or sand trout. jetties offers access to the bay from
Grimes with Matagorda Related to specks, these seatrout the Gulf. For local information see
Sunrise Lodge (www. can grow larger than six www.portoconnor.com.
MatagordaSunriseLodge.com). pounds, but most range 1- to
“We catch many 6- to 8-pound

2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 115

Laguna Madre, TX Channel in the south. The Port Outside the cuts to the Gulf,
Mansfield Channel bisects anglers can catch king mackerel,
Laguna Madre covers 609 square Padre Island, giving the town cobia and large sharks close
miles along the southeastern of Port Mansfield access to to shore. Several wrecks,
Texas coast about 50 miles the Gulf of Mexico. artificial reefs and oil platforms
north of the Mexican border. concentrate fish. The Gulf
An inlet off Laguna Madre, With no major rivers entering bottom drops off quickly in
Baffin Bay covers about 100 the system, Laguna Madre stays south Texas, allowing anglers
square miles. Meaning “Mother extremely salty. The lagoon to catch red snapper less than
Lagoon” in Spanish, the bay averages less than five feet deep nine miles from shore. Anglers
separates the Texas mainland with many acres carpeted in can catch amberjack and
from Padre Island. thick seagrass. Work topwater grouper about 30 miles out. A
baits over the grass tops for big little farther offshore, anglers
These waters delivered the trout and redfish. The system might tangle with blackfin or
Texas state record speckled also holds some large flounder. yellowfin tuna, wahoo, sailfish
trout, a 15.60-pounder. Nearly The shallow, gin-clear waters and blue marlin. ß
landlocked, Laguna Madre offer fly fishermen outstanding
opens to the Gulf at Corpus sight-fishing opportunities. For area information, see
Christi in the north and www.portmansfieldtexas.com.
through the Brownsville Ship

Information, Regulations & Licenses
• Louisiana: www.wlf.louisiana.gov
• Mississippi: www.mdwfp.com
• Texas: www.tpwd.texas.gov

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2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 117

Preferred Destination

Apalachicola

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Waterway Guide has several Preferred Destinations that
we believe are worthy of a stop. One such place is the
welcoming port town of Apalachicola on Florida’s
“Forgotten Coast.” This community of 2000 inhabitants blends its
4000 plus years of human history into everyday life. The town still
has thriving businesses in oyster, shrimp, crab, sponge, and finfish
and echoes of the past ring loud through the town.

A Walk to Remember

Once the third largest port on the Gulf of Mexico, Apalachicola
is filled with old-fashioned charm. A self-guided tour along the
tree-shaded sidewalks of Apalachicola’s beautifully restored
and extremely walkable historic district is a great place to start.
More than 900 historic homes and buildings date back to the
1830s including regal homes once inhabited by sea captains and
river pilots. To learn more about the town’s diverse and colorful
history, visit one of the numerous historic sites such as the
John Gorrie Museum State Park or the Raney House Museum,
exhibiting furniture, documents and artifacts of the 19th century
at 128 Market St.

Food for Thought

2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 119

“Local fare centers around the

bounty of the pristine Apalachicola
Bay (with oysters being the star)...”

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Apalachicola has a very low key vibe with a
vibrant Old Florida ambiance. There are many
funky boutiques, coffee shops, restaurants, raw
bars and even a local brewery. “Fresh caught” takes
on new meaning when ordering seafood here.
Throughout the brick, tin-roofed warehouses of the
historic downtown district, visitors will discover
an impressive array of riverfront oyster bars and
upscale cafes. Local fare centers around the bounty
of the pristine Apalachicola Bay (with oysters being
the star), and you will find fresh seafood served up
in every way imaginable, from raw and steamed to
fried and grilled.

Two of our favorites are Up the Creek Raw
Bar (where the locals go) at 313 Water St. and Half
Shell Dockside at Scipio Marina. Both enjoy some
of the best views in Apalachicola from covered
and open-air seating. The Franklin Café at the
Gibson Inn (51 Ave. C) spotlights local seafood
and farmers, reimagining familiar favorites with
Japanese, French and Southern influences. After
lunch or dinner, we like to head over to Oyster City
Brewing Company at 17 Ave. D for an Apalach IPA,
a Hooter Brown or one of their other flagship brews.

Stay the Night

For families traveling with younger crew, the
municipal Battery Park features slips, a fishing pier
and a great playground at 1 Bay Park. Apalachicola
Marina, Inc. is located at the base of a historic
brick building that once housed Apalachicola
Ice Company at 247 Water St. and is right in the
center of town. The face dock will accommodate
several 50-foot vessels but the only amenities are
electric and water. Water Street Hotel & Marina is
a unique 30-suite hotel with a 19-slip (to 55 feet)
marina, fuel, a pool and an on-site restaurant (329
Water St.). In addition to the previously mentioned
Half Shell Dockside, Scipio Creek Marina at 301
Market St. offers slips, dry boat storage and a well-
stocked marina supply.

Side Trip: St. George Island

2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 121

Just across the Apalachicola Bay are the
white sand beaches of St. George Island,
which are often littered with shells
including oysters, scallops, arks, cockles,
carditas and boat shells. On other days
sponges litter the beach–gnarly and
twisted Dead Man’s Fingers, basket
sponges and vase sponges. Then there
are starfish days when symmetric sea

stars are ubiquitous. St. George Island
State Park encompasses 9 miles of
pristine shoreline, majestic dunes, a bay
forest, sandy coves and salt marshes.
Spend the day exploring the series of
hiking trails and boardwalks featuring
observation platforms. Of course, you
can’t miss the 79 -foot-tall St. George
Island Lighthouse, which proudly

stands in the center of St. George
Island with exhibits that recount the
history of the islands, keepers and
their families. ß

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Cuba’s New

Currency By Addison Chan, Contributing Editor

Over the years Cuba has been an
exotic destination promising
adventure, exposure to a
different culture and incredible
hospitality from friendly Cubans all at a
bargain price for travelers and boaters due to
the highly subsidized prices for food, liquor
and accommodations. As demand for Cuba
travel grew so did the prices of marinas
and hotel accommodations. Cuba is still
relatively economical compared to Florida or
The Bahamas even though prices have risen
significantly over the past 5 to 6 years.

One of the trickiest aspects of Cuba for land
and sea travelers alike was the phenomenon
of two official Cuban Pesos. For many years it
was not simply a matter of asking “how much”
it was also very important to ask in which
currency because the value of the National
Peso (CUP), which had a fixed exchange
rate to the Convertible Peso (CUC), was
worth significantly less than the value of the
Convertible Peso, which was equal to the US
Dollar. The confusion was amplified when the
symbol used to denote both currencies was the
dollar sign. Many travelers ended up paying
$10 CUC for lunch when the true price was
only $10 CUP. In a murky way it was a win/
win situation because travelers thought $10
for lunch was a bargain compared to Nassau or
Miami and the Cubans made a very tidy profit
as $10 CUP is only worth about $0.50 USD.

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Our 75th Year

The existence of two currencies was also a source of friction for the “One of the trickiest
business community as maintaining two accounts was complex
and inefficient. For the general population, however, the existence aspects of Cuba
of the two Pesos was like a financial shock absorber because prices for land and sea
for necessities such as food and housing were denominated in CUP, travelers alike was the
which rarely changed in value in relation to the more valuable phenomenon of two
CUC. A loaf of bread, for example, had its price set at $8 CUP and official Cuban Pesos.”
a bottle of rum set at $35 CUP, where it remained regardless of
what was happening to the value of the CUC on the international
stage. The Cuban state essentially subsidized any difference in
value. The subsidies permitted Cuban households to massage low
salaries into meeting the cost of living, even if the standard of living
would be in the bottom third of all Caribbean nations.

For most visitors the vagaries of friction in currency markets and
lower standards of living are not something to dwell on but the
thought of buying a loaf of bread for $0.40 USD, fresh meat for $1
per pound and a bottle of very drinkable rum for $1.75 brings a
smile to many faces. The fact that a dollar could be stretched a very
long way coupled with the promise of exotic adventures drove the
demand for Cuba travel.

2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 125

In 2019/2020 Cuba ran into a perfect storm of economic and political pressure that created
a fiscal crisis not seen since the fall of the Soviet Union. First, the American embargo was
strengthened to limit the amount and means for sending of family remittances to the island.
Most significantly, Western Union service was suspended, which impeded the flow of over
$1 billion a year that was being sent to friends and family in the form of remittances from
outside of Cuba. Matters worsened in early 2020 when the Covid Pandemic struck, and the
Cuban government closed the entire country to foreigners for over 6 months. Another $2.4
billion of foreign currency was excluded from the economy. The loss of foreign currency
meant that it was increasingly difficult for the Cuban government to pay for imports, and
shortages of goods became rampant because most goods, which also included more than 65%
of the food supply, sold in Cuba are imported by the government.

126 waterwayguide.com

Our 75th Year

To alleviate the problem, in July of 2020 the Cuban government opened a chain of retail
outlets that dealt only in foreign currency. Purchases of food, clothing and household
appliances and consumer electronics could be made with foreign credit cards or with a
new medium of exchange unit dubbed MLC or Moneda Libremente Convertible, which
means freely convertible foreign currency. One MLC was pegged to one US Dollar in the
same way as the CUC, but the MLC only existed as a credit in a bank account, as there
was no physical currency. To access MLC a Cuban needed a special bank account and
credit card that was supported solely by foreign currency. Pesos could not be exchanged
for MLC credit. Relatives outside of the country, however, could deposit USD and Euro
directly into MLC accounts of relatives through various means.
To support the new stores, Cuba’s payment infrastructure was significantly improved,
and credit card use became more widespread. Where in previous years cash was king, the
broader ability to use “plastic” to pay for goods and services made traveling to Cuba simpler
in that it was no longer necessary for a foreigner to carry large sums of cash. The downside,
of course, is that it has also provided a convenient way to charge higher prices.

2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 127

The CUC, which had been the currency carried by most foreigners, was retired from
circulation on January 1, 2021. Any notes remaining could be redeemed in a Cuban
bank for the equivalent in CUP at the official rate of 24:1 until December 31, 2021. The
long-stated goal of the Cuban government to unify the two Cuban pesos into a single
currency had been achieved but did not occur without a cost.
With the CUC removed from the picture, the subsidy on daily living expenses for the
average Cuban was also removed. The result is that prices of goods have risen rapidly as
already scarce supplies have been further limited by the inability to convert CUP into
foreign currency to buy more. Inflation, which had been estimated to be in the 4-5%
range, increased more than 10-fold overnight. The most recent figures from the Cuban
government puts inflation at over 75% and anecdotal evidence suggests that the real
rate is much higher.
The black market has stepped in to fill the void and while private sector imports are
officially prohibited, there is a burgeoning industry of shopping mules who travel as far
away as Moscow to buy as much as an airline will allow them to carry home. There are
significant duties assessed against the imports but demand for scarce items remains high
and the mules cannot keep up with demand. The need for cash to supply the informal
import trade has driven demand for foreign currency, which is reflected in the premium
that is paid by curbside money changers for USD and Euros.

“The CUC, which had been the currency carried by most

foreigners, was retired from circulation on January 1, 2021.”

128 waterwayguide.com

Our 75th Year

Inside any marina in Cuba today it is easy to find somebody willing to pay $90 CUP for
$1 USD and if one were to venture outside of the marina, rates higher than $100 pesos
per dollar are possible. The trade in currency has increased to such a level that there
are websites (such as www.eltoque.com) that publish the daily rates of exchange for
currency on the street.
With the unofficial rates for currency as high as they are, it is possible for a visitor with
ready access to foreign currency to reduce many of their expenses by a significant margin.
Internet, for example, costs $1 USD/hour which is $25 CUP. If one were to buy pesos on the
street the true cost of an hour of internet would only be $0.25 USD. Similarly, a $3000 CUP
gourmet meal for two would be less than $50 USD, including the cost of a taxi to and from
the marina. For a short period of time marina prices were effectively reduced to what they
were during the Carter era where a 40-foot sailboat could be docked in Marina Hemingway
for less than $275/month including utilities.

2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 129

The currency situation has made Cuba a bargain destination once again if a traveler is willing to accept the
risk of trading dollars on the street. It is not a risk-free proposition as there is no recourse if a transaction
goes bad, so it is best to change smaller sums until a proper level of trust has been established. It is difficult
to tell if the window to enjoy the lowered prices will persist. The Cuban economy has stopped shrinking
and while growth will remain low for several years, the government is taking measures to eliminate some
of the currency advantage by requiring foreigners to pay for more and more goods and services in foreign
currency. To date rental cars and marina bills, which previously were paid in cash, can now only be paid
for with MLC or foreign credit cards. The most recent development is the imposition of a 10% sales tax on
purchases made in the MLC Stores.

There is always more to Cuba than meets the eye and with a rapidly changing political and economic
landscape it is a bewildering exercise to unravel the nuances. Perhaps the thrill of discovering the new
reality is what makes Cuba such an enchanting destination. ß

130 waterwayguide.com

Our 75th Year

Scope Don’t Skimp!

By Rudy & Jill Sechez

Excerpt from “ANCHORING–A Ground Tackler’s Apprentice”

Scope: A ratio Scope is one of three essential components
between the length of necessary to prevent dragging—anchor size and
rode deployed and the anchor design being the other two. Of these three,
vertical distance from only scope can produce that critical low shank-to-
the boat’s deck to bottom angle that allows the anchor to achieve its
the buried anchor. maximum holding power.

To calculate scope, add together: 1) the depth of
water; 2) the height to the bow roller; and, 3) any
additional height of tide. For anything but the
mildest weather, also include: 4) the depth to which

2022 Waterway Explorer Magazine 131

the anchor buries—a foot or holding power as it would have must be marked—every 25 feet
two in sand, up to 12+ feet in with a scope of 10:1. This should works well, and once the 100 foot
mud; 5) the height of any storm not come as a surprise since this mark is reached, the sequence of
surge—2+ feet for gales to 15+ is the same principle used to marks can start over. There are
feet for hurricanes; and, 6) the weigh anchor—shorten the rode, also meters that can be attached
height of waves—2-3 feet in which increases the anchor’s to some windlasses that measure
protected anchorages to 6+ in shank-to-bottom angle, and the the amount of rode let out.
less protected anchorages, higher easier it is for the anchor to come
if the wind opposes the current. out of the bottom. Alas, there is yet another
important factor—adequate
Multiply this sum: for all rope So, once the wind exceeds the scope must also be accompanied
rodes by 10, for rodes that are point at which the rode starts with adequate swing room; be
half rope and half chain by 7, or to lift off the bottom, say 15 certain to have plenty of both. ß
for all chain rodes by 5, resulting knots, dispose of those long
in scope ratios of 10:1, 7:1, or used guidelines of 5:1 and 7:1, Rudy and Jill Sechez have been
5:1 respectively. and deploy more rode. Go cruising and living onboard since
for and maintain a shank-to- 1997, first on a 37’ wood sailboat,
However, these long-used bottom angle of 6 degrees or which they built in their backyard,
ratios for scope apply only less—a scope of at least 10:1, then on Briney Bug, a 34’ sail-
in mild conditions when the and if you’ve skimped on or assisted wood trawler, which
catenary, that sag caused by the may have omitted any of the they designed and built. They are
weight of the rode, allows: 1) six components for calculating authors of “ANCHORING–A
the anchor’s shank-to-bottom scope, let out even more rode. Ground Tackler’s Apprentice”,
angle to be zero, and, 2) for a and are speakers on the topics
portion of the rode to lay on However, calculating scope is of anchoring, cruising simply
the seabed, creating some boat- only one half of the equation, the and frugally, and tips for
holding friction. other half is knowing, accurately, navigating the ICW.
the amount of rode deployed. To
But, once the wind starts to pick meet this requirement the rode
up, even if the rode is made of
a ‘heavier’ chain or has a kellet
installed, the catenary will start
to get pulled out. This decreases
the amount of rode resting on
the seabed, resulting in less
boat-holding friction, and, as the
rode lifts off of the seabed, an
increase in the anchor’s shank-to-
bottom angle which diminishes
the anchor’s holding power. It
is noteworthy that studies have
shown that once the rode lifts
off the bottom, an anchor with
a scope of 5:1 has only half the

132 waterwayguide.com

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