Magazine lowres

- CELEBRATING GLOBAL DIVERSITY FOR FUTURE GENERATIONS -

ISSUE 3-2016

regional food
on tour
DESTINATION
RESTAURANTS
ARE MAKING WAVES
upholding
tradition
with etag

Endorsed by:

2 WORLD FOOD

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WORLD FOOD FROM WORLD FOOD
THE BUSINESS OF FOOD
ISSN: 2094-1587 W hile my generation
saw the transition, or
PUBLISHER maybe the better word
PEPGroup, Inc. is “invasion,” of fast food into
our dining options, today’s
Editorial Consultant generation grew up with
Blue Plate Management Consultancy fast food. Sadly, obesity
and many modern maladies
Layout Consultant are attributed to the mass-
Jae Abaya produced, synthetically
heavy, unhealthy choices that
Art Director these restaurants offer. It
Jaydee Chun was a rather ingenious way to
cope with the faster lifestyle, but at what cost?
CONTRIBUTING Photographers
Hector Jaraza, Joel Pascual With this realization, the antithesis to fast food was born – the
Slow Food Movement. The movement’s goals are very noble – to
Writers save the planet; save biodiversity; save plants, ingredients, and
animals from extinction; and to promote healthy lifestyle choices.
Jae Abaya, Cris C. Abiva, Ma. Aileen I. Jaraza, Such a revolutionary message may be difficult to grasp, but, as the
movement’s name connotes, things can move forward, even if change
Joel Pascual comes in slow increments. What is crucial is that one keeps at it.

Stylists World Food was lucky to have been invited to cover and participate in
Cris C. Abiva, Andrea J. Duay, Ma. Aileen I. Jaraza the Terra Madre Salone del Gusto in Turin, Italy this September 2016.
This opened our eyes to the importance of Slow Food, a cause we
PEPGroup Publishing, believe is worthy of support.
OPERATIONS (World Food Magazine)
Melody Lim Within the pages of this issue is information on the event and the
(632) 655-7742 movement. We are hoping that this can help convince our readers to
take up the cause… to choose “Slow.”
World Food, a trade magazine concerned with
the business of food, is a regular publication of We are also taking the concept of saving biodiversity to the local level
PEPGroup Publishing. The Publishers reserve the by featuring some of the best-known regional dishes, ingredients,
right to accept or reject all editorial and advertising and personalities that promote local traditions and local cuisines. We
material and assume no responsibility for the must be vanguards of the cause, guaranteeing our history is not lost,
return of unsolicited artwork or manuscripts. our heirloom ingredients are not allowed to become extinct, and our
This magazine is a copyrighted publication and cuisine not forgotten.
the articles, photographs, and images contained
herein may not be used, reproduced, or otherwise This will be the first of a series that will delve deeper into what is true
distributed without the written consent of the Filipino gastronomy in the issues to come.
Publishers. The views and opinions expressed here
are not necessarily those of the Publishers. While Thank you for your continued support for our magazine and
every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy understanding that World Food is not just about recipes. It is really
and authenticity of the information contained here, about information… information that hopefully enhances one’s
the Publishers and editorial staff accept no liability business or germinates ideas and business opportunities.
for inaccuracies, omissions or any damages caused
by misinterpretation of information, expressed or Yes, there actually is money to be made in going Slow.
implied, within the pages of the magazine.
Please address any correspondence to:
[email protected].

PEPGroup, Inc.
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IN THIS ISSUE

COVER STORY PAGE PEOPLE PAGE PEOPLE PAGE
Slow Food Organic Farm Hands Organic Farm Hands
06 15 16
for Future Generations Pinoy farmers Ramon Uy, Jr.
Salone del Gusto 2016 take centerstage of Fresh Start

PEOPLE PAGE PEOPLE PAGE COVER STORY PAGE
Organic Farm Hands Organic Farm Hands The Ark of Taste
18 20 24
Meet Lam-En and Down to Earth’s Calls
Rowena Gonnay Nicolo Aberasturi Filipino food and
of the Cordilleras ingredients join The Ark

LTB PHILIPPINES PAGE LTB PHILIPPINES PAGE REGIONAL FOOD PAGE
Chefs on Tour Chef in Focus Mapping the Regions
28 31 34
LTB Chefs and Chef Mark Ledesma of the Philippines
Slow Food Manila shares a unique recipe The food of the regions
go on a farm tour

WWW.WOFEX.COM 3

IN THIS ISSUE

REGIONAL FOOD PAGE BUSINESS PAGE REGIONAL FOOD PAGE
National Capital Region The Business Region 1 - Ilocos
36 42 46
The Lure of Food Tours: of Pancit Empanada, Ilocos-Style
Malabon on a Plate Different money-making

noodle ventures

REGIONAL FOOD PAGE TRENDS PAGE REGIONAL FOOD PAGE
Destination
Region 3 - Central Luzon 50 Restaurants 54 Region 3 - Central Luzon 56
The Changing are Making Waves Taking Home

Foodscapes of the Meals worth a journey a Slice of Pampanga

Central Plains

REGIONAL FOOD PAGE BUSINESS PAGE ON THE COVER
BYOB
Cordillera 60 64 Photography by Joel Pascual
Administrative Region (Be Your Own Boss)
Should you get
Etag: Celebrating an into business?
Age-Old Tradition

4 WORLD FOOD

The United States has developed one of the world’s most efficient systems for beef production,
processing and distribution.
Livestock health programs and monitoring conducted by the USDA Animal and Plant Health Inspection
Service and the meat inspection programs operated by the USDA Food Safety Inspection Services in
conjunction with the U.S. industry guidelines and programs ensure that U.S. Beef production meets
some of the world’s strictest health and hygiene controls at every stage of rearing, processing and
distribution chain.

Key reasons for selecting U.S. Beef:
 Consistency in meat quality attributes are results from a unique USDA quality and yield grading

system.
 Tender, juicy and flavourful owing to the attentive rearing techniques and corn feeding.
 Rapid, guaranteed supply attributable to immense production in addition to extensive

distribution methods.

COVER STORY

SLOW FOOD
FOR FUTURE
GENERATIONS

BByy JJooeell PPaassccuuaall

6 WORLD FOOD COVER STORY

The challenge of Terra Madre Salone del Gusto 2016 for
Slow Food was political, cultural, and social: To assert that good,

clean and fair food is a human right, something we must all
feel part of, and that means loving the earth!

We can proudly say that we've succeeded in this challenge.

- Gaetano Pascale, President of Slow Food Italia

WWW.WOFEX.COM We at World Food have
attended so many food
events in many years
as part of the work that
we do. However, the
Salone del Gusto
terra madre was
truly a whole new
experience and concept
for us. Whereas most
other shows around the
globe are focused on
the commerce of the
food industry, Salone del
Gusto is about advocacy.
Here, the businessman
takes a step back in favor
of farmers, indigenous
people, and small
producers worldwide.
With an agenda as
noble as saving planet
Earth, it is a movement
worth looking into and
supporting.

7

“Slow Food” is a global The experience of going around promote recycling was a key issue.
the city amidst its myriad majestic Over 100 recycling areas were set up
grassroots organization that envisions backdrops resulted in an event unlike in different locations, overseen by 250
a world in which all people can any other we have experienced before. volunteers of the Italian association
access and enjoy food that is good Most of the exhibits were outdoors in Legambiente.
for them, good for those who grow it, tents, and as one walked through the
and good for the planet. Today, Slow different exhibits, one was enveloped Visitors were invited to reach Turin
Food involves over a million activists, in lush greenery, soothing lakes, and travel around the city using public
chefs, experts, farmers, fishers, and stunning castles, and beautifully transportation, and the organization
academics in over 160 countries. historic architecture. Through the used low-emission vehicles in order to
streets, under the arcades and in the transport the delegates who attended
With a network of around 100,000 museums, Terra Madre Salone del the event.
Slow Food members linked to 1,500 local Gusto was a clear example of
chapters worldwide, more than 2,400 a beautiful mélange of food, art, culture Several THEMED SPACES and
Terra Madre food communities practice and history. interactive tours were dedicated
small-scale and sustainable production to crucial campaigns to save the
of quality food around the world. OVERSHOOT DAY planet: From the preserving of
biodiversity to the need to reduce meat
TERRA MADRE Today, humanity has already reached consumption; from the promotion of
the “Overshoot Day for 2016.” It is more sustainable fishing to the need
“Loving the Earth” was the theme of called “overshoot” to indicate that we to safeguard bees and other pollinator
this year’s Terra Madre Salone del have used up the renewable resources insects increasingly threatened by
Gusto held from September 22-26, that nature provides us within intensive farming and the use of
2016 in picturesque Turin, Italy. a year. Therefore, from now on, we pesticides; from soil defense to the
will be consuming resources intended protection of water, seeds, and other
Serena Milano, General Secretary for the generations to come. This necessary resources.
of the Slow Food Foundation for is extremely alarming information,
Biodiversity explains, “Looking after since the last year in which the It was fascinating to notice that
the environment and the planet we live consumption of resources equaled people of all ages came to the event,
on is the most important issue of our the actual availability was way back ready to support and learn about
time, and an obligation for everyone in 1970. From that moment on, the Slow Food. At Terra Madre Salone del
who works with food. We want to Overshoot Day has been anticipated. Gusto, educational booths targeted
rediscover the pleasure of taking care For example, in 2000 it was at the end at schools and families were packed
of the Earth, together with producers, of September and, this year it was on with kids and their parents learning
teachers, chefs, academics, farmers, August 8. to grow gardens, make compost, chose
food communities, and above all, seasonal vegetables, and take care
everyday people and families.” Slow Food has always warned about of seeds. They taught visitors that
the threat to our planet, and it has been it is possible to grow gardens in the
Terra Madre Salone del Gusto, for working double time to find solutions ground, in a vase, on the balcony, in the
the very first time, took place in and to this problem. Out of necessity, the countryside, or in urban spaces.
around some of Turin’s most iconic organization has decided to underline
locations. The market was held in once again the commitment to moving PRESIDIA
Valentino Park, some educational in this chosen direction.
activities were held within the This year, Salone del Gusto welcomed
Medieval Village, while the Terra Beyond just food, the movement is 57 new Presidia from 18 different
Madre Forums took place inside about making lifestyle choices that countries. The Presidia are projects
the Valentino Castle itself. The affect the world we live in. At Salon initiated to save artisanal food
conferences were held at the Carignano del Gusto, every effort was put in place products, native animal breeds,
Theater, the Taste Workshops at to help save the Earth. Solutions plant varieties, traditional farming
the Circolo dei Lettori and the Mole to excessive energy consumption and fishing techniques, ecosystems,
Antonelliana (the National Museum of were offered via eco-friendly lighting and rural landscapes at risk
Cinema). Beyond that, there were some fixtures and low-consumption of disappearing. They involve
other events at the Egyptian Museum, appliances. The commitment to reduce communities of small-scale producers
Venaria Reale, Racconigi Castle, and the amount of waste produced and to who are willing to collaborate and
the Royal Palace of Turin.

8 WORLD FOOD COVER STORY

WWW.WOFEX.COM 9

jointly establish production rules were presented. It provided indigenous food production, food sovereignty,
and ways of promoting their product. communities with a platform to discuss gender, climate change, wellbeing and
They preserve ancient knowledge, the right to food sovereignty and the happiness – concerns not only of the
encourage sustainable practices and defense of bio-cultural diversity as indigenous people, but of everyone else
promote local communities. priorities for their future and for the on the planet.
future of the planet.
Recently, the foundation reached an Victoria Tauli-Corpuz, United Nations
important milestone by establishing Slow Food believes that to bring Special Rapporteur on the rights of
the 500th Presidium: The Tlaola about broad, transformative change, indigenous peoples stated, “This event
Serrano Chili Pepper in Mexico is now it is necessary to empower rural has a very important political impact
under the watchful eye of an entirely people in developing countries. for the Indigenous Peoples pushing
female Presidium, and is an example This collaborative effort includes and protecting their rights to their
of social and economic emancipation advocating in favor of small-scale territories and resources. Globalization
of indigenous women linked to the farmers with a specific focus on is a tremendous challenge, so we need
rediscovery and enhancement of indigenous peoples and the youth. to enter into a partnership because the
biodiversity. Slow Food works closely with battle for land rights is a battle for all.
indigenous peoples and includes some Slow Food can definitely be a strong
INDIGENOUS PEOPLE 277 indigenous food communities, ally for the Indigenous Peoples around
46 indigenous Presidia products, and the world.”
Indigenous Peoples took center stage 602 indigenous Ark of Taste products
at Terra Madre Salone del Gusto 2016. within the Indigenous Terra Madre THEY ARE GIANTS,
An entire area in Turin’s Valentino Park Network. BUT WE ARE MILLIONS
was dedicated to the Indigenous Terra
Madre Network via a themed space During the workshops, talks revolved To World Food, the highlight was
where stories, pressing issues, and around experiences in relation to land, clearly the world march of lovers of
the traditions of indigenous peoples Terra Madre where over 7,000 farmers,

The Philippine delegation meets with Elena Aniere of Slow Food to map out directions for the movement
in the country.

10 WORLD FOOD COVER STORY

food artisans, fishers, indigenous The booth of the Philippines showcased produce, products, and food
people, Slow Food activists and leaders, sampling courtesy of Chef Jam Melchor.
and citizens from 143 countries
paraded through the streets at the
center of Turin, delivering a message
loud and clear.

Carlo Petrini, president of Slow Food,
declared that, “The power of the
agricultural and food multinationals
is growing all the time, while financial
speculation in foodstuff is influencing
the livelihoods and the very survival
of millions of farmers the world over.
On the opposite front, a multitude
is emerging that is able and willing
to change the rules imposed by an
economy that is ruining the lives of the
weakest among us, starting from the
grassroots.”

Speaking at a conference at the Teatro
Carignano, José Bové claimed that,
“The recent fusion between Bayer and
Monsanto is a very serious episode
indeed, insofar as it puts us face to
face with the creation of a gigantic
corporation that controls seeds,
fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides—
not to mention medicines to treat any
consequences they might have on
human health — all at once.”

The humanity that represented
Terra Madre took to the streets to
assert that our food cannot depend on
decisions made by boards of directors
concerned only with sales, profits, and
dividends.

Before the march, at a ceremony at the
Teatro Carignano, the President of the
Italian Republic, Sergio Mattarella, paid
homage to the Terra Madre delegates.

One of these, Dalí Nolasco Cruz from
Mexico, a member of the indigenous
Nahua people and coordinator of
the Slow Food Tlaola Serrano Chili
Pepper Presidium, declared that, “We
have saved this traditional variety
and made it an economic alternative
for the indigenous peasant women of

WWW.WOFEX.COM 11

Slow Food founder, Carlo Petrini, continues to encourage and inspire people
all over the globe to join the movement.

our community. These women have longer be the slave of a faceless and the safeguarding of agricultural
always been discriminated against unchecked market. biodiversity. The event’s new open
for three reasons: First, because air formula, the discussion spaces,
they’re women, second because they’re They may be giants, but we are and the interactive tours have helped
indigenous, third because they’re poor.” millions. foster a direct and fertile relationship
between visitors and delegates, raising
The world of agriculture is made A WAVE awareness and creating positive
up of big multinationals, but also of OF POSITIVE ENERGY energy towards the objective of
more than 500 million family farms Slow Food: Good, clean, and fair food
that struggle day by day to defend By the end of the Terra Madre Salone for all.”
biodiversity, promote native seeds, and del Gusto 2016, everyone was in high
act locally to develop clean, healthy spirits because another important step Sergio Mattarella, President of Italy,
economies. towards good, clean, and fair food for who was present at the opening
all was taken. ceremony, said, “Terra Madre Salone del
This multitude concretely endorses Gusto is, at one and the same time, an
an alternative model and designs Paolo Di Croce, Slow Food International Italian challenge and a meeting with
possible future scenarios in which General Secretary comments, the world. I believe that initiatives
food sovereignty will be developed and “Seven thousand delegates from 143 like this help in the construction of
propagated, and in which food will no countries, 300 Slow Food Presidia, and a shared language, and to support
1000 food communities of the Terra changes in our culture which we know
Madre network from five continents. are necessary.”
These are not simply numbers, they
represent a humanity that is united Among the many journalists present,
here to discuss the great challenges Dan Saladino, BBC Radio presenter and
which we must confront, above all

12 WORLD FOOD COVER STORY

producer, said, “I took part in a forum LESSONS FROM
about the biodiversity of bananas SALONE DEL GUSTO 2016
and I heard the stories of producers
from Indonesia, Japan, Uganda, and The international event, which brought together the best of the
discovered lots of varieties and world’s artisanal production in Turin, had three main goals,
a thousand uses of this fruit. Nowhere inviting visitors to learn more about: How to be a farmer, how
else can you find such a wealth of to be a co-producer, and how to be a home-gardener.
testimony all in the same place.”
How to be a Farmer
Olivier Roellinger, a French chef known
for his extraordinary interpretation The Slow Food Presidia – which involve communities of
of Breton cuisine, described his farmers, herders, and fisher folk from around the world all
experience in Turin with this working to sustain high-quality food production – set
statement, “Something is happening a positive example for everyone. Five thousand Terra Madre
in the world and the marvelous market delegates from over 160 countries shared their experiences
of Terra Madre in Turin is part of that and advice with visitors. At the market, one met the producers
change.” who abide by Slow Food principles and philosophy. It was also
a venue where visitors were offered practical advice on how to
For us in World Food, we shall continue start farming for themselves.
to support and help promote the
noble objectives of the movement, for, How to be a Co-producer
after all, the health of the planet is
everyone’s concern. ● Eating is the first agricultural act. So to go from being simple
consumers to conscious co-producers, it is essential to
WWW.WOFEX.COM understand the production techniques involved in bringing
food from the farm to the table. Terra Madre offered interactive
courses, conferences, fora, and taste workshops; all dedicated
to Slow Food’s major campaigns: SLOW MEAT, which
promotes responsible, sustainable meat consumption; SLOW
FISH, which raises awareness of the richness and complexity
of marine life; and SLOW BEANS, which advocates the
many nutritional properties of pulses. Thankfully, the Food
and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations has
declared 2016 the “International Year of Pulses.” The crucial
role of bees in protecting biodiversity was also a focus, as well
as the importance of sustainable agribusiness.

How to be a Home-gardener

To love the Earth, it’s important to get to know it first hand,
and that means cultivating it. During Terra Madre Salone del
Gusto, Slow Food Education provided ideas and solutions for
growing one’s own “slow” vegetable garden. Workshops were
organized for schools and families on how to compost, choose
seasonal vegetables, and take care of seeds.

13

UFroSmAFarPm otouTalbtlre y

isthe Perfect Choice!

PEOPLE

ORGANIC

FARM HANDS

THESE HANDS SUSTAIN OUR COUNTRYSIDE
AND MAKE SURE IT IS NOURISHED
FOR THE FUTURE.

Farmers have always felt a deeper responsibility the last Slow Food Summit in Turin, Italy. Strangely,
to the earth. It is born out of their powerful or perhaps serendipitously, despite being from the
respect for it and intense relationship with the same country, it took an international exhibition in
land. World Food has always believed that the rest of Europe for us to find them.
us owe much to our farmers. Not only do they feed us
– and for that alone we already owe them immensely Some were born into the farmer’s life, and others fell
– but they also nourish and preserve this fascinating into it. But all of them have come to love the life,
planet we call “home,” for us, and for the generations despite its difficulties and unpredictabilities. Here
to come. are stories of organic farmers, heirloom farmers, and
accidental farmers – lovers of the land, living off
WF was privileged to have been able to converse with the land.
some of the farmers who represented the country in

WWW.WOFEX.COM Photo courtesy of LTB Phils.
15

ramon Ramon “Chin Chin” Uy, That wouldn’t stop him. He was
uy, jr. Jr. of Fresh Start Organics newly married and needed
never really knew where life a business to sustain his young
Successfully, would take him. He probably family. Together, the couple took
and never dreamed he’d become a leap of faith and went fulltime
Organically, a pioneer of organic farming in into composting, believing
Riding the Winds the country. Much less that he’d that it was an idea whose time
of Change eventually be able to coalesce had come. His wife, Francine,
an immense number of farmers had idle land they could use
16 WORLD FOOD and bring not just sustainable for the venture, and he had the
farming, but Fair Trade practice, equipment.
to the country. It’s not the kind
of success that someone who They started buying manure
didn’t finish college expects to and other crop waste. People
achieve. Much less someone thought they were crazy, but
who’s first business venture Chin Chin truly believed in the
failed. But Chin Chin managed potential of converting waste
to go against the odds, on what, into a valuable resource.
it seems, were both “twists and
leaps of faith” and a visionary One year after they started this
knack. business, oil prices rose, and,
being oil based, so did the price
Chin Chin originally had of chemical fertilizers. Despite
a foundry shop servicing spare this, it was hard to convince the
parts and supplying equipment farmers to make the switch. In
for sugar mills in Negros, but frustration, and to prove the
that business floundered, and, viability of compost fertilizer, he
being a college drop out, he felt decided to create a demo garden
he was ill equipped for a career on a tiny 500-square meter plot
change. He did, however, have in their backyard. This was
the ability to see possibilities another leap of faith, as the
where others could not. couple had no background in
agriculture or farming. All they
As luck would have it, Former had was the firm resolve to make
President Gloria Arroyo then the business work.
signed into law Republic
Act 9003: The Solid Waste To increase the potency of their
Management Act. This forbade compost, Chin Chin got into
the open dumping of solid waste, vermiculture, a process that
forcing industries to go into involves the use of worms to
composting as an option. One consume composted waste.
of the pieces of equipment Chin The worms own waste is then
Chin’s company was selling was harvested – this is called
a shredding machine. Shredded vermicast – as it now contains
paper, cardboard, and plant very nutritious enzymes and is
material is used in composting. the best organic fertilizer.
This provided an opportunity.
He recalls that when he was
Chin Chin approached local younger, his dad often spoke
government officials hoping about his discussions with
to get funding to invest in Pam Henares of the Philippine
composting, but they did not Council for Agriculture, Aquatic
believe in the technology. and Natural Resources Research

PEOPLE

and Development (PCAARRD) in Chin’s farming costs have dropped. According to Chin Chin, for business
Bacolod, who first used the worms Furthermore, by buying waste, he gives continuity, it is important to take care
as vermimeal, a substitute for the farmers added income. of the buyer-supplier relationship. If
conventional animal feed. She later one takes advantage of his suppliers,
realized that instead of killing the As the acceptance of their composting sooner or later the relationship will
worms, it is more sustainable to use business grew, driven by the success sour and he will have to look for
them in composting. This way, the of their organic farming, the next step other suppliers willing to be taken
worms continue to multiply and was to focus on making their produce advantage of. Similarly, if one cheats
can therefore produce more organic commercially viable. his customers, he will lose them and
fertilizer. will have to look for new customers.
They noticed that major supermarkets So to sustain a business, Fair Trade
Chin Chin’s miniature demo farm was would buy their vegetables at a very is crucial. It is cheaper, after all, to
simply to showcase the possibilities low cost and sell them at three times maintain one’s suppliers and clients,
of organic composting and was not the purchase price. Chin Chin felt it than to keep looking for new ones.
designed to be commercially viable, was unfair how the farmers did all the
so the couple planted whatever seeds hard work, but the resellers made all To date, he has brought together about
were sold in the supermarkets. They the money. So, instead of selling their 800 farmers farming 50,000 hectares of
planted herbs like basil, because they produce in bulk, they started selling rice, coffee, sugar, vegetables, seafood,
were available. They had no idea what it in smaller quantities, pre-washed. and wild forest products.
the herbs were for, or if there was even This way they managed to raise their
a market for them. profits. When Robinsons Malls offered As a Slow Food advocate, we asked
them a space for free for one month, him if it works as a business model.
Serendipitously, a visit by fellow as part of the mall’s Corporate Social He gives a resounding yes and adds
Negrense Chef Margarita “Gaita” Fores Responsibility (CSR) Entrepreneur’s that the beauty of this business is that
made them realize they were on to Month – they took the plunge and they are making money, and saving the
something. Chef Gaita was surprised discovered they had a following. world at the same time.
to see these herbs growing organically
in Bacolod. Until then, she could only After Entrepreneur’s Month, they had Their sales continue to grow, and the
use commercially available, processed the option to continue renting a kiosk number of farmers and farmlands
basil. A partnership blossomed and in the mall. The rent however was under their Negros movement
the rest is history. Php 20,000 a month. Again, they took continues to grow as well – clear
a leap of faith and went for it. indication that the market for organic
From its original 500 square meters, produce is growing and gaining
the farm expanded into two hectares After just two weeks of their opening, acceptance.
in a year. The expansion did not come their farm could not cope with the
easy though. The soil had turned demand. They needed to create Chin Chin looks back at the “Green
fallow by many years of chemical a new business model. They started Revolution” launched by the
fertilizer use. But, according to Chin consolidating the produce of the other government decades ago where
Chin, “You feed the soil and the soil will farmers in their area. At that time, a push to higher productivity driven by
feed the plant. The compost makes the provincial government, through chemical fertilization actually created
it nutritionally rich again.” Compost the Island Drive Organic Program, had many of the health problems today.
conditions the soil without chemicals already organized Negros’ organic By going organic, he does not see it as
– letting nature take its course and farmers. This made it easy for Chin “going back to basics,” but rather as
rebuilding soil biodiversity. Chin to tie-up with them. moving forward to more regenerative
farming.
More than this, his business model In his new role as consolidator, he
proved economically sustainable. With offered the farmers a “fair price.” He hopes to continue pushing organic
conventional farming one obtains Prices not based on the law of supply farming and attracting more to go into
a high yield at a high costs. By letting and demand, but rather, prices that agriculture to help decongest the cities,
nature take its course, one is no longer adhered to proper compensation for spread the development and wealth
concerned with high yields. One can the farmer’s cost of production, and to the provinces, and have a healthier
succeed with a mere average yield at gave the farmer a net income. population eating more sustainable
a minimum cost. By composting, Chin food. ●

WWW.WOFEX.COM 17

around Pasil, Kalinga, opting to plant on multiple locations
because, he says, this is a way to minimize losses during
calamities.

In the past, our Kalinga farmers used the rice they
harvested as barter, trading the rice for basic needs such
as salt, canned goods, toiletries, and the like. The barter
system, however, treated the indigenous varieties as
ordinary rice and would value them as such.

To add insult to injury, the Department of Agriculture (DA)
taught the farmers to plant the high-yield varieties. It
was necessary then to keep up with the country’s high
demand for the staple. However, this forced the indigenous
variants out of the farming landscape. If this were to go on
unabated, the traditional varieties would have all become
extinct.

the A challenge in highland farming is that one’s production
gonnays capacities are limited by finite land space, unlike in the
lowlands where expansion is easy. Given that there is little
Husband room to grow the size of the land they can till, for an upland
and Wife Team farmer to better his standard of living, he needs to either
Fight to Keep increase his yield or the profit margins of his harvest, or
both.
Indigenous
Farming Alive. While the high-yield varieties may have been more
profitable for the farmers, due largely to the increase in
lam-en. The Cordillera Administrative Region (CAR) was once production, because they are not endemic to the region,
home to about 100 varieties of indigenous rice. Today, it would farming them required more and costlier technology.
be hard put to say that 20 varieties still exist, and if they do, it Chemical fertilizers and insecticides were necessary to
is largely due to people like the Gonnays who work hard to keep sustain production, polluting the soil and the rivers. In
them alive and bring them back from the brink of extinction. contrast, traditional varieties only need to be planted and
they will naturally grow to full term.
Today, Lam-en Gonnay chooses to farm indigenous rice, instead
of the high-yield varieties sold across the country. He does so Luckily, much of this changed when Mary Hensley of the
on around 3,000 square meters of land in different locations Peace Corps, upon being assigned to the Philippines, saw
the potential in indigenous rice varieties and started the
Cordillera Heirloom Rice Project. (See World Food Issue
4-2015: Rice Stories – Guardians of Cordillera Heirloom
Rice) Investors from Eighth Wonder in Montana, USA
invested in local traditional rice varieties allowing the
revival of 20 of the 100 indigenous varieties. However, from
2006 to 2015, this meant that their rice production was
mainly exported out of the country.

It was only recently, in 2016, that the DA started supporting
the local farmers planting heirloom rice. To the farmers’
surprise, they found that processing for the local market
was cheaper and the selling price was higher. So for this
year, they momentarily stopped exporting and started to
develop the local market for heirloom rice.

18 WORLD FOOD PEOPLE

With the assistance of the DA, the of being mere “assistance,” it has Department of Agriculture – Cordillera
farmers were trained to formulate Administrative Region (DA-CAR).
organic fertilizer and improve their become a replacement for Among the Pasil projects already
farming skills. This helped them funded by the DA-CAR are a multi-
transition from traditional farming income. purpose drying pavement, communal
to organic farming, paving the way irrigation systems, and farm-to-market
for them to reach the more lucrative Perhaps our government programs roads.
organic market. Furthermore, the need further study.
government assisted the farmers in To become a beneficiary, Rowena said,
acquiring farming machinery and WF asked Lam-en if there is any organizations, groups or cooperatives
processing equipment improving the chance for local farmers to get rich? make a proposal or request, which
yield of the farms. is then endorsed to the province,
His answer was yes, because “rich” and then to the region. The benefits
From using their produce just for has a different definition for each are not for individual farmers, but to
barter, Cordillera indigenous rice individual. He says that a farmer can Department of Labor and Employment
has now become a commercially live a very comfortable and content (DOLE) registered groups, and
viable product, much to the benefit of life. Born into a family of farmers, accredited by the DA-CAR.
our farmers. When the exportation he sees no other future for himself
started, their heirloom rice was selling outside of farming. It was what he was Some funding comes from the DA-CAR
at Php 50 per kilo. This eventually rose born into, what he loves, and what he as well as farm input; like molasses,
to Php 70 per kilo. If the farmer is able will fight for. Even for his children, organic fertilizer, and the materials
to process the rice, then the selling Lam-en insists that there is no need needed for hands-on training. The
price rises to Php 130 per kilo. to persuade them to follow in his Department of Trade and Industry (DTI)
footsteps – it is an unspoken tradition sometimes also donates post-harvest
A number of challenges still do face and he fully expects his children to machinery. Equipment maintenance,
our upland farmers, however. There continue farming their lands in the however, is shouldered by the
is a government regulation that limits future. He is a true farmer to the core. organizations that made the request.
government assistance to rice farms We need more people like him.
with a maximum slope of five degrees. There must also be regular monitoring
This puts the Cordillera region at ROWENA. As the wife of a farmer, to make sure the farmers use the
a distinct disadvantage, as there are no the passion to help the plight of the machinery – like the shredder
such slopes in the Cordilleras. Most of farmer is doubly powerful with Rowena machines used to make organic
them are at 20 to 45 degrees. Lam-en Gonnay. fertilizer – and constant evaluation
can not comprehend why the program of the rice harvest, to ensure that the
is limited to low sloping land, when Rowena is married to Lam-en, and is quality of the rice is good.
upland farming is more difficult, hence, currently an extension worker with
needs more assistance. the Municipal Local Government Unit Much of the interest in helping
(LGU) of Pasil, Kalinga. Fortunately for the upland farmers came from the
Lam-en also says the Department of Rowena, and the rest of Pasil’s farmers, government’s sudden interest in
Social Welfare and Development’s the local government of Pasil is heirloom rice. From this came the
(DSWD) Pantawid Pamilyang Pilipino a very pro-active supporter of the local development of farm-to-market roads
Program (4Ps) may actually prove farmers. that greatly improved the process.
a disadvantage. In the program, Transportation can now easily access
the national government provides At the core of their assistance is the farms, whereas before, the farmers
conditional cash grants to the poorest training: Keeping our farmers had to carry their produce on their
of the poor to improve the health, enlightened and up to speed backs, traveling sometimes for miles to
nutrition, and the education of children on the natural farming system, the nearest road.
aged 0-18. Lam-en has noticed that organizational management, rice
because it is a cash dole-out, many of production, pests and diseases, and Post-harvest machinery, such as
the farmers have become so dependent many more. However, funding for customized rice mills, originally was
on the program that they are no longer the training is difficult for the LGU to concentrated in the central areas of the
interested in farming. The dole out is subsidize. Therefore, part of Rowena’s provinces. Lately, several pieces were
killing their initiative to work. Instead job is to propose these programs donated to different villages. Allowing
to the Cordillera Region and the

WWW.WOFEX.COM 19

the farmers to process Nicolo
their rice sooner and faster, Aberasturi
improving their quality
while lowering their costs. Bearing the Flag
for Organic
Rowena, like her husband, Farming
credits this sharp incline in
interest and improvement to
the project initiated by Mary
Hensely. Her interest in the
red rice that the locals of
the Cordillera were eating,
and her desire to help the
farmers made her come
back to the Philippines after
her service in the Peace
Corps. She approached
the agriculture office for
assistance – which was
how Rowena got involved as
an extension worker.

Although Rowena is happy
with the growing interest
in heirloom rice, she still
has a fervent wish. She
hopes that the DA project to
rehabilitate the terraces will
push through. The famed
rice terraces are currently
degrading, as past typhoons
devastated large areas of the
terraces. Other farms are
being abandoned because
of the devastation caused
by earthworms and the
lack of water for irrigation.
There must be a way to stop
all this and preserve our
precious rice terraces – still
considered one of the world’s
man-made marvels – and
Rowena will keep fighting to
find the solution. ●

20 WORLD FOOD PEOPLE

Nicolo Aberasturi comes from When Tropical Storm Washi, locally After much research on the country’s
a family of cattle farmers in Cagayan known as “Sendong,” devastated CDO high yield tropical crops, and with
de Oro (CDO) who have been in the in December of 2011, Nicolo’s farms available land of about 1,000 square
business for nearly 40 years. Their were badly hit. Many of his cows were meters in his backyard, Nicolo
cattle is comprised mostly of the lost to the floods and the bridge that proceeded to farm various crops
Indian Ongole breed, a few cross linked the farm to the rest of the island within 700 square meters. The
breeds, and some dairy cows. To cope collapsed. This caused the cost of remaining land he used to raise
with the demand, the family also bringing their produce to the market rabbits and free-range chickens. He
bought cows from different farms, to to skyrocket, and food going into the and his family were designing
consolidate and increase the supply. farms for the workers became scarce. a system that could feed a family of
six.
In the early 1990s, with stricter The idea of farmers not having food
government regulations being for their own needs struck Nicolo For his “backyard farm,” Nicolo opted
implemented – including the as ironic: Those who produced for produce that was easy to grow,
required Environmental Compliance food had no food of their own. He weighty, and had the most nutritional
Certificate (ECC) specifically for waste noticed that the farmers were only value. This being a tropical country,
handling and the use of pesticides planting cash crops to sell and he chose plants that grow year round,
– the Aberasturis had to learn to were no longer planting for their instead of seasonal crops.
manage their cattle waste more consumption. Because of this, Nicolo
efficiently and experimented on using decided to start growing produce in After just a year, the Aberasturis
it as organic fertilizer. It was either his backyard, to make sure his family were able to grow about 50 varieties
that, or face closure, and it turned out could sustain itself through any of both perennial and annual crops
to be a blessing in disguise. Because eventuality. in their backyard. Using open
of this, they became the first certified pollination, the plants self-pollinate,
organic fertilizer producer accredited By this time, Nicolo’s family was guaranteeing that there will always
by the Fertilizer and Pesticide living in Makati so they could attend be the best crops growing in the farm.
Authority (FPA). to the farm’s operations in Manila. By producing one’s own seeds, the
The cattle they purchased in CDO farmer can design his crops using
Turning cow manure into organic would be shipped live and sold to seeds from the best plants, creating
fertilizer is an expensive process. wholesalers in Luzon. But because hardier produce that better adapts to
One needs a lot of manpower to turn of the losses from Typhoon Sendong, weather variations.
it, dry it, and pulverize it before it can the couple needed to uproot again
be mixed with soil. The constant and moved to Laguna, where their Eventually, the farm they named
need for experimentation to perfect children were studying. This gave “Down to Earth” started producing
the composting material exposed them the perfect opportunity to buy more than the family needed for their
the family to several markets land big enough to put up a small personal consumption. What began
and purchasers. They were now nursery where they could grow their as a model farm for self-sustenance
completely into organic farming and own food. has now become a rather successful
Nicolo’s compost became a preferred business endeavor. The organic eggs
fertilizer option to chicken manure in It was there and then that Nicolo’s from the free-range chickens are one
CDO, as it was already dry and ready advocacy was born. of their biggest earners today.
to use.
“Why an advocacy?” one may ask. As word of the success of the
Due to the expense involved, the Nicolo, it seems, often finds himself Aberasturis’ backyard farm project
Aberasturis were forced to go into the arguing for the viability of organic spread, more people with land to
production of other crops. The family farming. The nursery was a way spare became interested in getting
settled on vegetables and cut flowers. to prove him right. He set out to into something similar and sought
Today, while the cattle farm continues prove how much food he could out Nicolo for advice. Fortunately, he
to thrive, Nicolo has shifted the focus produce within a small piece of land. is not one to decline an opportunity to
to producing high-value vegetables Naysayers argued that going organic share his knowledge and experience.
in another farm beautifully located at could not actually feed a family. ● Joel Pascual
the foot of Mt. Kitanglad. Nicolo took that as a challenge.

WWW.WOFEX.COM 21

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COVER STORY

In the wake of progress, globalization and the need to feed The
a global population growing at breakneck speed, we have Ark
lost many of our artisanal and heritage food, as well as our
endemic trees, fruits, vegetables, and even animal species. of
taste
The time, care, precision, and even ritual that it takes to calls
prepare indigenous dishes or care for heirloom plants and
animal species have nearly rendered them insignificant in
a world that, for its survival, needs high-yield resources and
quick-growing species. Humanity has lost control of time, and
in our effort to take the most out of every day, fast food has
become the go-to dining preference everywhere.

Across the globe however, the Slow Food Foundation for
Biodiversity is working arduously to prevent the food,
animals, and plants that were once integral to the daily lives
of humanity, from disappearing forever. According to the
foundation, the rate of extinction of species and varieties
has increased by 1000 percent. The group says that the earth
could possibly be undergoing its sixth mass extinction, and
sadly, its not longer some mass planetary cataclysm that’s to
blame. It’s man.

Therefore, the solution needs to be man, as well.

The Slow Food Foundation was created to defend biodiversity – the diversity of life that
continuously allows it to adapt. It is believed that if nature is allowed to proceed on its own
course, there is and will always be enough food on the planet to feed everything that lives on it.
It’s when we tamper with the flow and nature’s processes – largely for greed, profit, and
a needless fear of lack – that things go haywire.

The industry that feeds humankind – agriculture – is the main cause of this coming
extinction. To be viable, and profitable, industrial agriculture needs to be based on only
a handful of species and varieties that needs to be produced and is able to reproduce
anywhere, regardless of territorial differences like soil condition, climate, or the
area’s existing vegetation and fauna. The flavor of the produce also needs to
be standardized and able to resist
lengthy transportation. This usually
denotes chemical reconditioning or genetic
modification.

Because of this, according to Slow Food’s
research, in the last 60 years, thousands
of species, breeds, and varieties have
disappeared. Seventy five percent
of plant varieties have been
irreversibly lost.

24 WORLD FOOD COVER STORY

Sadly, our heritage foods are vanishing What exactly culture, environmental and social
as well. This includes breads, cheeses, is the Ark of Taste? sustainability, nutrition, and taste.”
cured meats, and sweets. It goes beyond “repopulating” an area.
In the same vein that Noah’s Ark saved It means rejuvenating whom a people
Enter the Ark of Taste the living things of the world from are, how they lived, and what they
the devastating flood by collecting on lived for.
(World Food featured the Slow Food board a breeding pair of each species
Foundation and the Ark of Taste in to repopulate the earth as soon as the There are a number of criteria
Issue 4 of 2015.) waters subsided, the Ark of Taste is products must pass before they can
primarily “A catalogue of products that be nominated to the Ark. The most
To save this wealth, and possibly stop are linked to the culture and traditions important being that there must be
much more from fading away, the Slow of a community: Domestic species a link to the memory of a community,
Food Foundation has embarked on (breeds and varieties), wild species, a culture, and a territory. They must
a number of projects: Presidia, Earth and processed food products also be artisanal products produced
Markets, and the noble and rather (e.g. breads, cheeses),” and secondarily, in limited quantities. The risk of
biblical Ark of Taste. a set of initiatives designed to keep extinction of the nominees must be
them alive and prospering for many real, but can also be potential. Lastly,
Why is it important to save more generous. they cannot be registered brands.
local plant varieties and animal
breeds? Simply because – The purpose of The Ark is to bring Anyone can nominate a product to
aside from the fact that they to the fore the existence of these the Ark of Taste. Those interested
have kept communities alive products, to warn anyone willing to in presenting a product to the Ark
for generations – they are listen of their risk of disappearing, need simply to go to the Slow Food
often the best adapted to the and mainly, to invite everyone to take Foundation website at
area and thus require less action and save them. “Taking action,” www.slowfood.com or
water, chemical input, or even according to the Foundation, means, www.slowfoodfoundation.org.
labor. They are also a priceless “nominating, searching, eating, buying, However, a nomination doesn’t
cultural heritage and belong and promoting them.” Or, as in the case necessarily mean entry to The Ark.
to the peoples’ identity, as of wild species at risk of extinction, There is a lot of research, sampling,
much as their language, art, “NOT eating them.” studying, rating, and judging that
architecture, and even faith. happens before a product is invited on
If seen in depth, the Ark is not just an board and its path to salvation is nearly
attempt to save, “… genetic material, guaranteed. ● Jae S. Abaya
not just a catalogue of seeds. Each
product means seeds, land,

WWW.WOFEX.COM 25

So Much The Ark of Taste has, fortunately, been gracious
to be Proud Of. enough to allow 52 Philippine breeds, species, and
So Much to Save. food products on board, to date.

Courtesy of the hard work of the Slow Food
Foundation’s local arm, a rich listing of local heirloom
and heritage products have a chance at salvation.

PLANTS, SEEDS, rice
FRUITS, SEAWEED varieties

1. Adlai kardis, kidis, tabios, 19. Pili 28. Chong-ak
2. Alupag Tree Congo pea, or Black- 20. Saging Mondo 29. Imbuucan
3. Ayusip eyed pea) 21. Siling Labuyo 30. Ingudpur
4. Batuan 11. Kamatis Tagalog 22. Tabo 31. Jeykot Sticky Rice
5. Batwan 12. Kamias 23. Tabon-tabon 32. Ominio
6. Criollo Cacao 13. Katmon 24. Tinigib Visayan 33. Red rice from
7. Halamang dagat 14. Lagundi
8. Himbabao 15. Lingaro berry White Corn Kalinga and Ifugao
9. Kabog millet 16. Luyang dilaw or 25. Tisa
10. Kadios beans (also Conig Wild Ginger 26. Tubho
17. Marang 27. Ubi-Kinampay
called kagyos, 18. Miaray
kagyas, kaldis, kalios,

26 WORLD FOOD COVER STORY

coffee processed food, animal
varieties dishes, liquor breeds
and species
34. Barako 36. Baya
35. Benguet Coffee 37. Budbud kabog or Bibingka diwa 45. Cordillera Native
38. Burnt corn flour (for Kapeng mais Black pig

or Corn coffee) 46. Darag chicken
39. Dried Spinefoot (Danggit) 47. Paraoakan chicken
40. Duman 48. Sinarapan
41. Kiniig 49. Tamilok
42. Kunsilba (Banana brittle) 50. Tawilis
43. Landang (Native tapioca) 51. Visayan Warty pig
44. Nipa Vinegar 52. Yellow cattle

WWW.WOFEX.COM 27

LTB PHILIPPINES CHEFS ASSOCIATION

CHEFS ON TOUR

28 WORLD FOOD L TB Philippines Chefs Association
in cooperation with Slow Food
Philippines organized a farm tour
to Nicolo Aberasturi’s Down to Earth
Farms homestead in Sta. Rosa Laguna
and to Gejo Jimenez’ Malipayon
Farms in Silang, Cavite.

The LTB members, led by President
Fernando Aracama with organizers
Chef Sito Senn and Gina Lumauig
of Slow Food Philippines, brought
a group of 15 chefs and foodservice
professionals to the two distinct
farms, both of which practice organic
and biodynamic agriculture.

At Down to Earth Farms, Nicolo
talked about the importance of soil
conditioning in farming. Leaves,
branches, and tree trunks are
composted then returned back to
the soil to enrich it. This provides
moisture and food for various
organisms, such as earthworms that
cultivate and enrich the soil.

Heritage breed chickens are fed
a diet of vegetable leaves and
trimmings so that the eggs they lay
are free of fishy flavors – something
often associated with eggs from
commercial chickens fed fishmeal.

After a tasty brunch of heritage
breed Black Pig jowl ham, local
cheese, smoked butter, scrambled
eggs made from freshly laid eggs,
and stewed black pork sausages
(all products of Down to Earth), the
group made its way to Silang, Cavite
for the continuation of the tour.

LTB PHILIPPINES CHEFS ASSOCIATION

At the two-and-a-half hectare 29
Malipayon Farms in Silang
Cavite, Gejo likewise stressed the
importance of taking care of the soil
and managing the balance of carbon
and nitrogen, which are both needed
by plants and insects to thrive. He
demonstrated this by showing the
group a pit with burnt logs that will
be mixed into the soil to prepare it
for planting in the coming months.
Aside from the baby carrots, an
assortment of Asian and western
herbs, spices, and sprouts were also
presented – such as ginger, galangal,
curry leaves, sawtooth coriander,
purslane, oregano, kaiware radish
and basil sprouts. The tour was
capped off with fresh buko enjoyed
with a bamboo straw and vegetable
goody bags for everyone.

All in all, the group is very grateful
to Gina Lumauig of Slow Food
Philippines, Nicolo and Paula
Aberasturi, and Gejo Gimenez for
showing the chefs where food
really comes from – the farm, and
not the market, – and for giving
us an appreciation of organic and
biodynamic farming, which we must
support for the sake of having food
that is fit to eat.

For more information on these farms
please visit www.downtoearth.ph
and www.facebook.com/Malipayon
Farms. ●

WWW.WOFEX.COM



LTB PHILIPPINES CHEFS ASSOCIATION

ox tail cannelloni

2 kilos ox tail 4 liters beef stock Chef In Focus:
120 mL olive oil 30 grams garlic, crushed
2 grams salt 2 bay leaves mark ledesma
2 grams ground black pepper 5 grams rosemary sprigs
3 grams chopped rosemary 4 grams butter, cubed • Executive Sous Chef – Menu Development,
10 cannelloni pastas tubes Miascor Catering
100 mL olive oil
200 grams carrots, for mirepoix 100 grams bacon, cut into • Diploma in Culinary Arts and Kitchen
200 grams onions, for mirepoix 4-inch lengths Management from the International School for
100 grams celery, for mirepoix Culinary Arts and Hotel Management (ISCAHM)
100 grams tomato paste 30 grams grated Parmesan
200 grams dry red wine cheese • Eleven years as a professional chef

(Cabernet Sauvignon or 2 eggs My favorite comfort food is Roasted Char Siu Pork
Merlot) with Jasmine Rice. I acquired a taste for this while I
was working in Hong Kong.
1. Preheat oven to 250°C.
2. Season ox tail with olive oil, salt pepper, and rosemary. Lay on My first memory of cooking was helping my mom
prepare Japanese Fried Rice by chopping the
a rack placed over a baking tray. Roast for 45 minutes. Set aside ingredients for her. I was about eight years old.
roasted ox tail. Remove the excess oil from the drippings then
deglaze with some red wine. Set aside. I knew I wanted to be a chef in high school. I
3. In a heavy braising pan, heat the olive oil and add mirepoix remember making French Toast a la French Fries for
vegetables. Add tomato paste. Deglaze with red wine. Pour in the a food sale. I cut the bread into sticks and served
beef stock, the drippings that were set aside, garlic, bay leaves, and them with a pancake syrup dip. They sold out fast.
rosemary. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Add the ox tail, making sure it is covered by the cooking liquid. The greatest challenge I meet in airline catering is
Cover pot and bring mixture to a boil. Lower the heat and braise, that we need to cool large batches of food down to
for 3 hours, or until meat is fork tender. Set aside to cool. below the temperature danger zone. We take this
5. Pull the meat off the cooled ox tail. Discard the bones. precaution because it takes hours before the food is
6. Strain the braising liquid. Transfer to a pan and bring to a boil. heated and served in airplanes. The key is to choose
Reduce until of the right consistency. Season to taste. Finish off dishes that keep well, and can easily be heated while
by adding the cubed butter. Stir until sauce is smooth and glossy. still maintaining optimum quality, taste, and texture.
7. Spread some sauce on a baking pan.
8. Pipe the flaked ox tail into the cannelloni tubes. Lay filled tubes 31
on the baking pan and top with more sauce. Roast until cannelloni
tubes are cooked.
9. Roast the bacon until crisp. Drain on paper towels to remove
excess oil.
10. In a bowl, combine the grated Parmesan cheese and eggs. Spread
over the baked cannelloni. Gratinate until golden brown.
11. To plate, take three cannelloni tubes and arrange on a plate.
Garnish with bacon and micro-greens or edible flowers.

WWW.WOFEX.COM



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(632) 281-1127 systems

Café Fleur • Development of operations manuals
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86 N. Vicencio St., Niugan, 70 Alder Street, Greenwoods Executive
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107 Gen. Luna St., Malabon City
(632) 281-2298

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(632) 281-4999 local 1003

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(632) 282-1280

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WWW.WOFEX.COM 33

REGIONAL FOOD Batanes
CORDILLERA
ADMINISTRATIVE Ilocos
REGION Norte Apayao

REGION 1: Cagayan
ILOCOS
REGION 3: Abra
CENTRAL LUZON Kalinga
NATIONAL
CAPITAL Ilocos Mountain Isabela
REGION Sur Province
REGION 4-B:
MIMAROPA La Ifugao Aurora
REGION 6: Union
WESTERN VISAYAS
Benguet
Palawan Nueva Quirino
Viscaya
REGION 9:
ZAMBOANGA PENINSULA Pangasinan
ARMM
Zambales Nueva
34 WORLD FOOD Tarlac Ecija

Pampanga
Bulacan

Bataan Rizal

Cavite Laguna Camarines Catanduanes
Quezon Norte

Batangas Camarines
Sur
Marinduque
Occidental Albay

Mindoro Sorsogon
Oriental
Mindoro

Romblon Northern
Samar
Masbate

Samar

Aklan Biliran Eastern
Capiz Leyte Samar

Antique

Iloilo

Guimaras Cebu Southern

Leyte Dinagat Islands

Negros Bohol Surigao
Occidental del Norte
REGION 18:
NEGROS Negros
ISLAND Oriental

Tawi-Tawi Siquijor Camiguin Surigao
Agusan del Sur
Misamis
Occidental Misamis del Norte
Oriental

Agusan
del Sur

Zamboanga Lanao

del Norte del Norte Bukidnon
Zamboanga
Zamboanga del Sur Lanao Davao
del Sur del Norte
Sibugay
Compostela

Valley

Cotabato

Maguindanao Davao Davao
del Sur Oriental

Basilan Sultan
Kudarat
South
Sulu Cotabato Davao
Occidental

Sarangani

REGIONAL FOOD

Regional Filipino food is a topic that is wide and varied. It cannot be
encompassed in a single article or magazine issue. But it is a topic that we, at
World Food, hope to start off here and continue on in succeeding issues with
features on region-specific food and other local food matters.

MAPPING
THE REGIONS
REGION 2:
CAGAYAN VALLEY

REGION 4-A: T he Philippines is an archipelago produce, or sweet items, a trip from
CALABARZON of 18 regions distributed within another region always means bringing
the three main island groups of home a pasalubong of some sort. This
REGION V: Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao. More practice has also extended to foreign
BICOL than just geography, the regions are travelers via Pasalubong Centers
pockets of shared heritage, languages, that are sprouting in the provinces,
REGION 8: dialects, culinary history, attitudes, and particularly tourist destinations. This is
EASTERN VISAYAS traits that make each one distinct from a boost, not only for the region, but more
the other. Yet despite the uniqueness so for the small businesses that produce
REGION 7: of each area, a common thread runs local food, handicrafts, woven materials,
CENTRAL VISAYAS thru them, particularly when it comes souvenir t-shirts, and other novelties.
to food. Provinces or regions, have thus become
REGION 13: associated with must-buy pasalubong
CARAGA The debate on whether adobo or like otap from Cebu, strawberries
sinigang is the Filipino national dish from Baguio, buko pie from Laguna,
REGION 10: (or for that matter kare-kare, lechon, durian from Davao, and lansones from
NORTHERN or even, sisig) is made even more Camiguin, to name a few; and while
MINDANAO complicated because there is no single regions may share the same type of
REGION 11: recipe of most of these local dishes. pasalubong, say suman (a type of rice
Adobo alone has a slew of versions – cake), suman from Ilocos is different
DAVAO and not just by region, as a region may from that of Antipolo or Batangas.
REGION 12: even have several versions depending
SOCCSKARGEN on area, the availability of ingredients, These are only two examples of
a family’s preference, or who does the commonality that the different regions
cooking. Adobo in the Bicol region share, there are definitely a lot more.
includes the requisite gata (coconut What is important to point out is that
milk) while in Batangas, atsuete even in sharing common ground, there
(annatto) is added for color. My yaya, is still a distinct individuality,
who is from Mindanao, would cook as each region has its own
adobo until it is dry then pack it in interpretation of many dishes, its own
a bottle with lard to bring as baon during brand of taste, and its own ideas on
the boat trip from Pagadian to Manila. what food best represent their area and
their regional culture. This is what
The Pinoy’s propensity for out-of-town makes our culinary culture interesting
trips or going to the province during and worth traveling to 7,110 islands for.
holidays means buying pasalubong – It is therefore fitting that we celebrate
and it is often food. Be it kakanin (rice this diversity that bring us together
cakes), bottled sauces, snack food, fresh as Filipinos. ●

WWW.WOFEX.COM 35

REGIONAL FOOD: NATIONAL CAPITAL REGION

THE LURE T he National Capital Region or NCR is also referred
OF FOOD TOURS: to as “Metro Manila.” It is the financial, commercial,
and educational center of the country. While
MALABON it is made up of 16 cities and one municipality, and
ON A PLATE administered by 17 primary local government units, it is
actually the smallest region in the Philippines. The NCR,
unlike the country’s other regions that are composed of
provinces, is divided into districts. Four in total, the first
being the Capital District, as that is where the country’s
capital, the City of Manila, is located.

At the northern edge of the NCR is its Third District,
also known as CAMANAVA – an acronym for Caloocan,
Malabon, Navotas, and Valenzuela – the four cities that
make up the area.

Malabon is a low-lying area that is prone to flooding
especially during high tide. Fishing and patis production
are the major food-related industries. The city is also
famous for its ancestral homes and its glorious food,
notably, pancit Malabon. According to the website
of Pancit ng Taga Malabon, one of the more popular
restaurants offering this noodle dish, it was originally
called “pancit bame.” It was actually the Manila-folk who
gave it the name “pancit Malabon,” referring to where it is
from.

To find out more about this city and its history, one can
either find a good local guide – usually a long-time resident
– or take part in the food tour that the local government
conducts. Called the “Malabon Tricycle Tour,” this tour-on-
wheels takes its journeyers to see the city’s historical sites,
ancestral houses, and the establishments that offer the
famous dishes of Malabon. Participants are given coupons
that are redeemed at the eating places they visit, giving
them a chance to taste the specialties for themselves.
Everyone, of course, ends up buying more to bring home.

This project of the Malabon Tourism Office aims to help
local entrepreneurs market their businesses and brands,
while developing Malabon as a tourist destination. The
stops in this food tour include: Lugaw Express, Dolor’s
Kakanin, Hazel’s Special Puto, Betsy’s Cake Center,
Jamico’s Restaurant, and Aling Mely’s Carinderia.

36 WORLD FOOD World Food went around Malabon with Yambao siblings,
Denise and Tina, of Arny♥Dading Peachy-Peachy to savor
and see what the city offered. We were able to meet the
proprietors of some of the more well-established food
businesses, each of whom shared with us how they started
their enterprises.

REGIONAL FOOD

Arny♥ coconut, but they soon developed sauce. Next time we visit, we will
Dading a variant that would become more make sure RJ prepares his Crispy
Peachy- popular – Peachy-Peachy topped Pata with Kalabasa Sauce and pansit
Peachy with lots of grated cheese. Today, labong. These, he says, are also
they also offer flavored versions traditional Malabon dishes.
When it comes to kakanin, it is not (langka and pinipig). Unlike most of the other
only sapin-sapin that is associated food businesses in Malabon,
with Malabon. Since 1983, it has RJ Yambao, who is in charge of Arny♥Dading has branched out to
also been known for the cassava- operations, manages the production other areas. Though the flagship
based pitsi-pitsi that Arny♥Dading of their kakanin, which is made store is still the one in C. Arellano,
Peachy-Peachy made popular. Arny fresh everyday, then delivered to they also have several branches in
and Dading Yambao started the the various branches outside of Quezon City, Pasig City, and Makati
business in the kitchen of their Malabon. He also develops the City, where they sell not just their
house in Malabon and passed it on recipes for the bottled condiments signature kakanin but also other
to their children. Their brand is they sell, and the cooked viands that Malabon-made products. It is their
pronounced “Arny Dading,” but must are available in some of their outlets. way of helping other entrepreneurs
be written with the heart between bring their products to other
their names as it imparts the love The store in Malabon also serves markets.
that the owners want to share RJ’s version of pancit Malabon,
with their customers. They want teeming with toppings of lechon World Food would like to thank the
everyone who eats their Peachy- kawali, shrimp, tinapa, and Yambao siblings – Denise Santos,
Peachy to feel like they are taking chicharon. The thick rice noodles Tina Alcantara, Arlene Enriquez, and
part of a family meal. are mixed with his original sauce RJ Yambao – for taking us around
that is enriched with the flavors of Malabon and sharing with us the
This cassava rice cake is taba ng talangka and oysters. It is wonderful food and stories that
traditionally spelled and truly to-die-for, or is it to-die-from, make their city deliciously unique.
pronounced “pitsi-pitsi,” but as as the siblings jokingly say that it A single visit is not enough, as it
Dading envisioned the product to be is ‘nakakamatay.’ A must-try when seems we – or rather our stomachs,
the Rustans’ version of the kakanin, one happens to be in town. They – barely scratched the surface of the
they decided to spell it Peachy- also made WF try the kikiam of culinary culture in this part of NCR.
Peachy instead. They started with Malabon, which they claim is unlike A second visit is a must. ●
the basic pitsi-pitsi rolled in grated any other. Tessie’s Kikiam is made
of pork and singkamas. The way
to serve it is to cut the roll with
scissors then to dip it in the special

WWW.WOFEX.COM Photo courtesy of Tina Alcantara
37

Betsy’s Cake Center

There is no other bakeshop in Malabon for. Her signature product is her broas, and kamote. Daily lunch meals are
that can top the reputation, longevity, which is unlike the crisp ladyfingers available during weekdays and there
and the fantastic soft broas of Betsy’s from Quezon Province that most people is a function room on the second
Cake Center. are familiar with. Betsy’s irresistible floor, which can be booked for special
broas are very soft with a rich cream events.
Bella Serna started out with a bakery filling. One can’t stop at eating just
in the 1960s, but after taking baking one! They are that good. The shelves of the bakeshop are filled
lessons, she decided to upgrade her with all sorts of sweets – from pies
store into a bakeshop. She named it The store is a busy hub of business to cookies, candies, and savory pies.
after her only daughter, Blesilda “Betsy” with people coming and going – to Some of the bestsellers are the caramel
Serna David. pick-up cake orders, to dine in, to buy tarts, empanaditas, tocino del cielo,
pasalubong, or to grab a quick snack of Brazo de Mercedes, hand-molded and
As her mother did before her, Betsy chicken pie or cuapao. Aside from the caramel yema, and tarts filled with
took cooking and baking lessons to bakeshop that carries a wide array of macapuno, ube, and pineapple.
learn and develop products for the cakes and pastries, there is also
shop. Today, she continues to create a self-service counter where one can For Malabon folk, there is no other cake
recipes for new products, while order hot food like pancit Malabon, for birthdays, anniversaries, and other
managing to maintain the top quality pancit bihon, lumpiang hubad, ukoy, special occasions than Betsy’s. Even
of the products her shop is famous and even minatamis na kundol, gabi, the highly-regarded bakeshop brands

38 WORLD FOOD REGIONAL FOOD

Clockwise from top left: Betsy Serna, her FASCINATING
famous broas, the display of scrumptious FOOD TOURS
cakes, savory cuapao and a selection of YOU MIGHT WANT
sweets (yema, tocino del cielo, caramel TO SIGN UP FOR
yema).
Food tour businesses have been cropping up locally.
have bowed to Betsy’s supremacy in Malabon. Enterprising food and history lovers are taking to it
She has always enjoyed designing cakes, and as a ‘second’ career, one that is fun to do, yet seriously
says this is something she inherited from her profitable too. It is a good business to get into, as it
father Serafin Serna, a painter. “Applying art to requires low investment and low overhead. You just
food,” she philosophizes. She says her dad also need to know what you are offering and choose excellent
used to design some of their cakes. establishments to partner with that best represent your
area.
Betsy has not let her success go to her head.
She is still hands-on in managing the business, There is a huge market for food tours from foodies,
now with her daughter, Bessie David del Rosario families, tourists, retirees, frequent travelers, and even
– whom she claims is her toughest food critic. corporate groups. Even marketing and promotions won’t
Betsy has stayed humble and says her aim is cost much, as most of it is done virally, through online
just to keep the business that she loves going marketing sites, social media, and by word of mouth.
so she can continue to provide employment to
her staff and give her patrons delicious food. Aside from the Malabon
Any food tour of Malabon will not be complete Food Tour, here are other
without a visit to Betsy’s Cake Center. interesting local food trips:

WWW.WOFEX.COM • Big Binondo Food Wok
with Ivan Man Dy

[email protected]
• Davao Food Tour of Mel Pangan

[email protected]
• Eat Your Way Through Pampanga

with Bryan Ocampo
[email protected]
• Ilocandia Food And Heritage Tour

by Osep Reyes
• Sagada Coffee Eco-Tour by Osep Reyes

• Makati City Food Walking Tour
by Osep Reyes

[email protected]
• Cebu Food Crawl

with the Cebu Bloggers Society
[email protected]

• Negros Organic Farm Tour
[email protected]

39

Hazel’s Norma’s
Special Special
Puto Pansit
Lug-log
The puto-making started with her maker whose products are also
mother Rebecca Monfierro in 1990, sold in Hazel’s store. A trip across the bridge from Malabon to
but Hazel Faustino has certainly Navotas will bring you to a panciteria that
put her own stamp on the business Aside from the brisk daily sales is known not for its pancit Malabon, but its
that bears her name. that the store enjoys, Hazel also pancit luglog. We repeatedly asked what
earns from wholesale orders from makes one different from the other and we
She only has three products: Puto, re-sellers and eateries around got various answers. RJ Alcantara of Arny
puto pao (with a filling of pork the town. Re-sellers sell the puto Dading Peachy-Peachy puts it very bluntly,
asado), and puto pie – which is outside of Malabon. The eateries, “Dapat yung gumagawa ng pancit Malabon,
basically puto made in a round on the other hand, buy the puto to taga-Malabon.” A good point, indeed.
cake pan and topped with salted partner with their menu items like So in Navotas, the dish is called pancit
egg and cheese. The first two dinuguan or pancit luglog. Daily luglog and one of the most popular, if
come in individual muffin-size production, she says, is about 60 not the most, is Norma’s Special Pansit
pieces and are sold by the piece, trays of 20 pieces each – that’s Lug-log. The business was started in
or the box. Due to requests from 1,200 pieces of puto a day that she 1971 by Norma Concepcion, and today, is
customers who wanted puto sells. As her products must always managed by her brother Pedrito “Boying”
of a bigger size, Hazel came up be made fresh daily, all leftovers Concepcion. The suggested pairing for the
with puto made in a round cake are given away or sold as ‘tabas’ for pancit is either puto or biscocho.
pan and called it her “puto pie.” about Php 10/pack. Much like the version from across the
Today, some people buy this for bridge, thick rice noodles are used. This
celebrations, often in lieu of a Hazel’s store is part of the Malabon
birthday cake. Food Tour. Visitors are given a REGIONAL FOOD
brief tour of her kitchen where
Hazel’s Special Puto is known for they can see how puto is made
the tenderness and pure white and get to sample the puto and
color of its puto products. An puto pao. They usually end up
adjustment she made in the buying a box or two, and even
preparation process is the reason come back to buy again. She is
her puto is very soft, and very happy to be a part of the tour as
sought after. It is also very white it is an opportunity to introduce
because only egg whites are used. her products to people outside of
The egg yolks go to a leche flan Malabon.

40 WORLD FOOD

ellet’s sweets

is mixed with an atsuete-colored When it comes to bottled minatamis, of bottles to choose from: Small (12-oz),
sauce then topped with shrimp, there is no other brand that is better medium (24-oz), and large (32-oz).
adobong pusit, boiled pork, and known in Malabon than Ellet’s Sweets.
a lot of chicharon. A single Started by Ofelia Miranda in 1975, the Garbansos and macapuno are the
order comes in a bowl that, at business is now managed by Solomon top-sellers. In fact, Mon says their
first glance, seems small but the “Mon” Masangkay and Eric Galang. The macapuno was selected to be served to
portion is actually more than first product was sweetened garbansos, guests during one of the APEC dinners
filling, especially if one wants to and from there, other variants soon last year. Ellet’s Sweets are sold both
try the other they dishes they offer, followed. Today, the product line in retail and wholesale volumes.
like lugaw with hibe, adobong includes macapuno, beans, monggo, Wholesale buyers re-sell them in areas
pusit, and barbecue. Aside from and kaong. They also have the halo, outside of Malabon – in pasalubong
pansit lug-log, they also offer other which is a combination of garbansos centers, groceries, and even to
types of noodles like pancit canton and macapuno and the halo-halo, restaurant owners and purveyors of
and bihon guisado. which is a combination of beans, nata, halo-halo. ● Cris C. Abiva
monggo, and garbansos.
WWW.WOFEX.COM
Mon proudly says that what makes
their products excellent is that they
only use the best raw materials.
Through the years they have
established good relationships with
the suppliers of their ingredients. The
macapuno they source from Batangas,
nata from Bulacan, and kaong from
Mindoro and Mindanao. No artificial
sweeteners or flavorings are used, only
high quality Victoria’s sugar.

All the products are cooked and Mon Masangkay with the clan
processed in their facility in Malabon, youngsters - from left to right:
which also doubles as an outlet where Kristine Masangkay, Giselle
people can drop by to purchase the Fernandez, and Ian Masangkay.
various sweets. There are three sizes

41

BUSINESS Rice may be the
staple in the Filipino
THE diet, but a very close
BUSINESS second is pancit. The
fondness for noodles
pANOFCIT is one of the many
things the Philippines
42 WORLD FOOD shares with its Asian
neighbors, but
nothing will compare
to the wide selection
and variety that
Pinoys have.

I nvesting in a business that involves
noodles can be profitable, as here in
the Philippines, next to rice, noodles
are the most popularly consumed food
on a daily basis. Top food companies
like Universal Robina Corp. (URC) and
Monde Nissin manufacture instant
noodles, the biggest flour millers supply
flour to many noodle makers, and there
are a variety of big and small factories
around the country making bihon,
sotanghon, canton, ramen, miki, and
miswa.

Business opportunities do not stop at
manufacturing noodles, as consumers
can also get into business in the form of
restaurants, panciterias, catering, food
carts, and the like. Noodles offer
a myriad of business opportunities,
even for micro-entrepreneurs – and the
good news is that, they will never go out
of style.

BUSINESS

Instant Pancit social standing – buy noodles almost
daily. Instant noodles are the perfect
Monde Nissin’s Lucky Me! was the “Most convenience food – easy to prepare, easy
Chosen” consumer brand by Filipinos in to find, moderately priced, and delicious
2015, according to the Brand Footprint and filling. It also comes in various
research conducted by Kantar Worldpanel. flavors ranging from the basic chicken,
The noodle brand garnered 871 Consumer pork, and seafood to spicy, sweet and
Reach Points (CRP), which measures how spicy, calamansi, and even, Korean and
many households buy the brand (brand Japanese flavors. The top local noodle
penetration) and how often it is purchased manufacturers, Monde Nissin and URC,
(frequency). The group analyzed 17 billion are two of the largest food companies in
shopper decisions in 105 categories the country.
based on actual purchases. Lucky Me! is
purchased by 98% of Filipino households, Instant noodles are sold nearly
at 40 times a year on average. everywhere nationwide, from sari-
sari stores to convenience stores and
This is not surprising, with the Filipinos’ supermarkets. In some stores, hot
predilection for noodles, no matter the water is available so one can enjoy
type. In fact, the World Instant Noodle a hot cup of noodles instantly, on site.
Association says the Philippines was Cup noodles are immensely
ninth in the quantity of units or packets convenient, as they’re even sold on
sold in 2014. Competition is stiff between board airplanes.
local manufacturers, considering most
households – regardless of economic or

WWW.WOFEX.COM Pancit in a Cart

Instant noodles may be the pancit of choice
when one does not have the time to cook or is
in a hurry. But when there is enough time to eat
leisurely, there are many ways one can have one’s
fill of noodles. First stop – noodle kiosks. When
one want freshly cooked noodles, but is in a bit
of a hurry, food carts are the way to go. There are
several Hong Kong-style fried noodle and dimsum
carts that can be found in malls, MRT and bus
stations, food courts, and supermarkets.

Averagely priced, with the option of having plain
noodles, or noodles topped with steamed dimsum,
these stir-fried wonders are a hearty lunch or
snack. The added attraction of being cooked right
before one’s eyes, and the interactive nature of
it – as one can put together one’s own sauce –
has made this a very popular choice for people of
all ages. Noodle carts – like Chow Mien Noodle,
O’Noodles, and Dimsum Republic – are among the
most profitable franchise possibilities today.

43

Panciteria

The second stop, for when one has a craving
for noodles are restaurants – from fast food
to casual dining to buffets. Pancit is always
available in restaurants offering Filipino
food, and even in those that offer other types
of cuisine. Whether stir-fried (dry pancit) or
with broth (wet pancit), it is a popular choice,
particularly for birthday celebrations and for
merienda.

There are numerous types of pancit based on
what noodle is used, what region or province
it comes from, what the sauce is, how it is
eaten, and when it is eaten. From the north to
the south of the country, there is probably
a pancit variety in every town, municipality,
or city. Little wonder then that some of the
most popular and long-standing eateries in the
Philippines are restaurants built around pancit.

Pancit ng Aling Banang Amber Golden Chain
Taga Malabon of Restaurants
Aling Banang was started by
Pancit Ng Taga Malabon began Urbana Santiago in the Amber Golden Chain of Restaurants started as
with the Calagay family of San Juan public market in the an eatery selling pancit in the garage of Editha
Malabon way back in 1911, when 1930s selling halo-halo. Her Faustino’s house in Malabon. In 1988, her uncle
the dish was called pancit bame. daughter, Ising, is credited helped her open the first restaurant in Makati,
According to the company’s for adding pancit to their which became known for its pancit Malabon
history, it was Manileños who menu. Today, it is a favorite and pitsi-pitsi. Twenty-eight years and eleven
started calling the dish pancit ng merienda spot where you can branches later, the business is now run by her
taga-Malabon indicating where have pancit bihon or canton children and “Amber” has become a household
it came from. They revived the topped with loads of lechon name. The company has also ventured into
business in 1965 in Marikina kawali, and halo-halo topped catering, bulk food orders, and food deliveries
and decided to use this as their with specially made leche flan under the entrepreneurial wing of daughter
business name. This pancit is and home-made ice cream. Rhoda. Contrary to popular belief, the business
made with thick rice noodles that People frequently have bilaos is not named for the owner, but rather the
come from Bulacan. The noodles delivered to homes and offices stone amber that the Chinese believe is lucky
are cooked then topped with sauce, during parties and other in business. It has certainly been lucky for the
shrimps, squid, oysters, flaked special occasions. family as Amber branches are always full of
tinapa, chicharon, and duck eggs. patrons lining for orders to take out.

44 WORLD FOOD BUSINESS

Buddy’s Pancit Lucban There are many other restaurants also distinguishes the two noodle
specializing in pancit, oftentimes, dishes – which they both offer
Buddy’s Pancit Lucban came about offering only a particular type, in their restaurant – by the type
accidentally. Salvador “Buddy” Velez was such as pancit Malabon. Lola of noodles used and the sauce.
growing vegetables in his farm in Lucban Idang’s, Rosy’s, Ninang’s, and Their pancit Malabon sauce has
and was selling them in Divisoria. During Pancit Malabon Express all offer egg cooked into it, while the
one harvest, his crop became infested by this type of noodle dish. Not to palabok does not. The differences
a parasite and the vegetables could not be mention Nanay’s, Mflores, Dolor’s, do not really matter much to
sold. He decided to salvage what he could Arny♥Dading in Malabon, and Filipinos who will happily order
from the plants and cooked the vegetables Norma’s in Navotas. either without needing to know
into lumpia that he then sold. It was so well what makes them different. It is
received, that soon people were asking for Of course, the other types of worth mentioning that even fast
more. pancit are also widely popular. A food giant, Jollibee, has pancit
close kin of the pancit Malabon, palabok in its menu. This simply
To cut a long story short, his cooking is the pancit palabok or pancit shows how popular noodles are.
skills led to a restaurant that now bears luglog. The key differences
his name. Buddy’s is the place to go to for between them are in the type There is such a wide selection of
pancit habhab and Lucban longganisa. The of noodle, the sauce, and the pancit in the Philippines that a
strong selling point is the uniqueness of toppings. The term luglog single article on it is not enough.
habhab, which is made with miki noodles, actually refers to the sound the We have not even covered the
topped with lechon kawali and served noodles make when they are ‘wet’ types, meaning noodles in
with seasoned vinegar. With more than placed in the strainer and dipped broth – like the mami, bachoy,
11 branches around Metro Manila, it is in the hot water. It is the common and sotanghon soup – or even
today one of the most successful pancit way to prepare noodles for both the regional variants that are
establishments. So much so, that in 2013 types of pancit. now becoming popular in the
Buddy had to put up a commissary to metro, like the batil patong
accommodate the business’ growing needs. Pansit Malabon is made with of Tuguegarao and the pancit
Despite their success, there are no plans to thick rice noodles while pancit Cabagan of Cagayan. This is one
offer franchises. palabok uses thin rice noodles. reason this is just the first in
For the former, the sauce is mixed a series of World Food issues on
Pancit Center with the noodles before the regional food.
toppings – which should contain
Pancit Center carries the tagline seafood, as Malabon is a seaport As the local food and beverage
“Your first and only pancit specialist.” – are arranged on top. The sauce industry continues to grow, more
With more than 30 years of foodservice for pancit palabok is poured over and more business opportunities
experience, this business was started by the noodles, not mixed in, and are opening up for local
Corazon Angeles who loved to cook pancit the toppings do not necessarily entrepreneurs. Regional food is
Malabon for her family and friends. She include seafood. Often it is one aspect that offers extensive
began by accepting orders, then was pork, vegetables, boiled egg, and possibilities, as we have so many
eventually convinced to open an outlet that chicharon. unique foods, ingredients, and
was called Corrie’s Pancit Malabon. Her products that can be developed
son, Lito and his wife managed the business While working on this issue, into profitable ventures. One
with her and later still her grandsons, who we learned so many other need not look far, or even beyond
re-branded the business into Pancit Center. differences. Betsy Serna of our shores, to find that one thing
The restaurant offers at least 20 different Betsy’s Cake Center and RJ that can bring financial success
types of pancit from the all-time favorites Yambao of Arny Dading in and security. It can be something
of canton, bihon, sotanghon, and palabok to Malabon both say the sauce as ubiquitous as, say, pancit. ●
regional favorites that include Batil Patong of palabok is water-based and Cris C. Abiva
of Cagayan, Pancit Cabagan of Isabela, the pancit Malabon is oil-based.
Ilonggo Efuven Guisado, Pancit Bato of Susie’s Cuisine of Pampanga,
Camarines Sur, the Batangas-style Pancit
Langlang, and Cebu’s Ba-mi, among many 45
others.

WWW.WOFEX.COM

REGIONAL FOOD: ILOCOS REGION

EMPANADA, ILOCOS-STYLE

T he Ilocos Region, or Region 1, is eco-tourism activities, Vigan – the in fact – the ones from Ilocos Sur and
at the northwestern tip of the UNESCO World Heritage Site in Ilocos Ilocos Norte are quite different – from
island of Luzon. It is a narrow Sur, numerous old churches and the crust and fillings, to how they are
plain found between the Cordillera homes, and its unique food delicacies. assembled, and even eaten.
Mountain Range and the South China It is a big favorite of tourists – both
Sea. It is a land of contrasts – rocky local and foreign – despite its Everyone in the Ilocos provinces
terrain and bountiful seas, sand dunes remoteness, being a long-winded 10 - knows empanada, though they say
and farmlands, and weather extremes. 12 hour drive from Manila. For those there are differences between the
The region is made up of four in a hurry to get there, there is an Vigan empanada – which is found in
provinces – Ilocos Norte, Ilocos Sur, international airport in Laoag for easier Ilocos Sur – and the Ilocos empanada
La Union, and Pangasinan – nine access. Travelers to the region often – which refers to the ones from Ilocos
cities, and 116 municipalities. take the time to make stopovers in the Norte. One notable difference is the
provinces they pass thru for a chance color, as the latter is bright orange
The northern area is largely to tour, eat, and buy pasalubong. while the former is not. People also
agricultural; growing rice, tobacco, say that the Vigan version has
corn, sugarcane, and fruits. Locals also Simple Tastes a thinner crust and is thus, crisper.
engage in raising livestock; mainly Both use the same type of fillings
of pigs, chicken, goats, and carabaos. The people of this region live simply and both can be enjoyed at all times
The southern area – Pangasinan, and it is evident in their cuisine. But of the day from breakfast to lunch
in particular – is invested in agro- do not take that to mean that their food and merienda. For most people, the
industrial activities that include is ordinary. There are a lot of unique differences are too slight as both
bangus (milkfish) cultivation and delicacies that come from this region, versions are delicious, especially when
processing, livestock raising, and the but one that must not be passed over newly fried and eaten with Ilocos
processing of bagoong (fish paste). is the empanada of Ilocos. While all special vinegar. Today, one need not
The Ilocos region is a popular tourist kinds of empanada are known and travel 10 hours to Vigan or Laoag, as one
destination because of its beaches, available throughout the Philippines can find this delicacy in Metro Manila.
– and in many countries of the world,

46 WORLD FOOD REGIONAL FOOD

the cook, while the twins and their Opening More Branches
brother, Kyle were the order-takers and
cashiers. On opening day, Hazel got One month into the operation, they
a call from her sons asking for change decided to make the business formal
for the cash register. So she sent an and registered the name “Fariñas
employee with loose change. The Ilocos Empanada.” Friends suggested
employee returned and told her there they open branches in the wet markets,
was a long queue. Curious, she went much like in Ilocos, but Hazel wanted
to see for herself. To her joy, she found to go in a different direction. After
her sons and their yaya busy coping a few months, they opened a second
with the demand. As they only had kiosk along Kalayaan Avenue, Quezon
two kilos of longganisa, they could City; and then in White Plains and
only sell 52 pieces of empanada. Tomas Morato. Opening in White
Some people however, ordered more Plains gave Hazel the chance to test
than one, so there was not enough for the market – to see if the empanada
everyone in the line. They were asked would appeal to a more upscale
to come back the next day. crowd. It was a gamble that she never
regretted, as Metro Manila’s elite took
The following day, they increased their to the dish immediately and in droves.
production. As long lines continued to
form in the next weeks, they learned to Hazel decided to add meals to the
adjust the production with the demand. menu as the White Plains branch
Hazel knew her boys had a winner. was spacious. Authentic Ilocano
dishes like bagnet, Ilocos miki, pancit
bagnet, poqui-poqui (eggplant with

Bringing a Taste Brian and Hazel Farinas bring a taste of authentic Ilocano cuisine to
of Ilocos to Manila Metro Manila.

In 2011, fourteen-year old twins 47
Lawrence and Kendrick Fariñas, asked
their mother Hazel if they could rent
the small stall near her beauty parlor
along Visayas Avenue in Quezon
City. They wanted to sell siomai for
the summer. She suggested they go
with Ilocos empanada, instead. The
boys were hesitant, because even if
they knew empanada was a popular
street food in Ilocos, it wasn’t well
known here and they worried about
sourcing the ingredients for it. It was
mom to the rescue, as Hazel said the
latter would not be a problem as the
ingredients can be brought to Manila
through their family-owned buses –
the Fariñas Transit.

Armed with the family’s recipe and
using all authentic ingredients from
Ilocos, the boys opened their stall with
the signage, “Ilocos Empanada” simply
written on bond paper. Their yaya was

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What’s in a Fariñas eggs and tomatoes), dinakdakan (an appetizer of grilled pork head/
Ilocos Empanada? face and brain), insarabasab (Ilocano-style Sisig), dinardaraan (Crispy
Dinuguan), Ilocos beef tapa and igado (pork tenderloin and liver
The crust is made of rice flour colored with cooked in vinegar) were offered. This then became their business
achuete to make it orange. There is no standard model – authentic Ilocos empanada and famous Ilocano dishes.
for the crust’s thickness as customers may
order a thin or thick crust, depending on their At present, Fariñas Ilocos Empanada has 20 branches located in
preference. The fillings include grated green Quezon City, Makati, Parañaque, Mandaluyong, San Juan, Antipolo,
papaya, monggo, Ilocos longganisa, and egg. Manila, Batangas, and Cavite. Most branches are open 24 hours. The
Only authentic Ilocano longganisa, which is expansion necessitated opening a commissary. Today, they process
very garlicky, is used. They use about 150 kilos all their raw materials in their 600-square meter facility before they’re
a day. The empanada is deep-fried until crisp distributed to the various outlets.
and is then served with authentic sukang Iloko.
Looking Beyond the Business
Fariñas Ilocos Empanada comes in different
variants - all vegetables with egg, with one or The Fariñas couple had no idea that the business would do so well
two pieces longganisa, with bagnet, or with financially, or that it would be the start of an advocacy for Ilocano
cheese. The Ultimate is the variant that has products and suppliers. Products like cornicks, camote chips, banana
everything on it – vegetables, longganisa, chips, kapeng Iloko, and bugnay and basi wines have ultimately found
bagnet, and egg. Everything is prepared upon their way to the shelves in their shops. It is their way of supporting
ordering, ensuring a freshly prepared product and helping other Ilocano entrepreneurs.

all the time. A key to the success of this endeavor is that the owners made sure
their business is run professionally. It has ceased to be a Mom-and-
The orange-colored dough is rolled out. Pop operation. This serves them well, as they are now also able to
replicate the business in many areas where the Ilocos empanada is
still something new.

Five years and twenty branches later, Fariñas Ilocos Empanada can
boast a degree of success other food businesses work decades to even
come close to achieving. Asked what their secret is, Hazel is quick

Vegetables, Ilocos longganisa and egg are The excess crust is trimmed off with using
arranged over the dough. a small plate.

The filled empanada is folded into Empanada is fried until crisp.
a half-moon.
REGIONAL FOOD
48 WORLD FOOD